East Renfrewshire Survey of Gardens & Designed Landscapes

THE GARDEN HISTORY SOCIETY IN SCOTLAND

EAST RENFREWSHIRE SURVEY OF GARDENS & DESIGNED LANDSCAPES RECORDING FORM

A. GENERAL SITE INFORMATION (Expand boxes as necessary) SITE NAME:

Caldwell House Estate

ALTERNATIVE NAMES OR SPELLINGS:

Coldwel (Pont), Callwall (Roy), Caldwall (various 18th century documents including those of Robert Adam)

ADDRESS AND POSTCODE:

Caldwell House, Gleniffer Road, Uplawmoor, Glasgow G78 4BE

GRID REFERENCE:

NS 41495415

LOCAL AUTHORITY:

East Renfrewshire (Historical Counties Renfrewshire & Ayrshire)

PARISH:

Neilston. Has at times been in Beith Parish Ayrshire but is mostly associated with Neilston. The most recent change was as part of The Renfrew and Cunninghame Districts (Caldwell House Estate) Boundaries Amendment Order 1989.

INCLUDED IN AN INVENTORY OF GARDENS & DESIGNED LANDSCAPES IN SCOTLAND:

TYPE OF SITE: (eg. Landscaped estate, private garden, public park/gardens, corporate/institutional landscape, cemetery, allotments, or other – please specify)

Landscaped Estate

SITE OWNERSHIP & CONTACT: (Where site is in divided ownership please list all owners and indicate areas owned on map if possible)

Complex recent ownership. Main house and grounds now understood to be under the ownership of JOK developments. Main contact for further information is Ms Julie Nicol, Planning Department, East Renfrewshire Council.

Area around Ram’s Head Cottage and land to south as far as Caldwell House totalling approximately 10 acres under private ownership.

Area around Roudans Cottage near Gleniffer Road entrance under private ownership.

Area around former boiler room and glass house adjacent to Roudans Cottage under separate ownership.

SIZE IN HECTARES OR ACRES:

Caldwell House lies in the middle of Caldwell Estate. The estate extends to 67.4 hectares (166 acres) or thereby.

PUBLIC ACCESS ARRANGEMENTS/OPENING TIMES (If any):

Frequent access to and public usage of parts of the estate. No formal opening times etc.

NATIONAL & LOCAL AUTHORITY DESIGNATIONS: (eg. Conservation Area, Green Belt, Tree Preservation Order(s), Nature Conservation Area, etc.)

The site is subject to the adopted East Renfrewshire Local Plan (ERLP) and covered by policies; E2 Green Belt and countryside around Towns; E3 Protection of Natural Features; E4 Conservation of the Built Heritage; E6 Local Biodiversity Action Plan; DC1 All Development and DC3 Green Belt and Countryside Around Towns and Proposal E10.3 Environmental Projects. Part of the estate covering the area of swamp have been identified as Sites of Importance for Nature Conservation (SINCS) by the Council.

LISTED STRUCTURES:

Caldwell House Category A. Listed 14 April 1971 Ref.14255 http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUILDING,HL:14255,Caldwell%20House

Former Keeper’s House, Caldwell Estate Category B. Listed 31 March 2004 Ref. 49695 http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUILDING,HL:49695,Caldwell (Some discrepancies exist between the HS and RCAHMS entries. Two properties appear to have been

combined into one entry. A former Keeper's Cottage and the former Laundry for Caldwell House.)

Ram’s Head Cottage Walled Garden, Caldwell Estate Category C. Listed 31 March 2004 Ref. 49696 http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUILDING,HL:49696,Caldwell (The bipartite (late 20th century) windows referred to in the listing are late 19th century not late 20th as stated).

Water Pump, Caldwell Estate Category B. Listed 31 March 2004 Ref. 49697 http://data.historic-scotland.gov.uk/pls/htmldb/f?p=2200:15:0::::BUILDING,HL:49697,Caldwell

B. HISTORICAL SURVEY INFORMATION: MAPPED, DOCUMENTARY & PUBLISHED SOURCES MAPPED SOURCES: (please list maps below in date order and attach copies where possible. Give the description or title, date, maker’s name if known, and for Ordnance Survey maps give the date of survey, edition number and sheet number)

Unless otherwise stated all extracts from map images are reproduced by kind permission of the Trustees of the National Library of Scotland.

Timothy Pont; Manuscript Maps of Scotland; Pont 33: Renfrewshire (circa 1590) http://maps.nls.uk/view/00002330#zoom=5&lat=1164&lon=3319&layers=BT

Stops at border of Renfrewshire and Ayrshire but lands around Caldwell Tower (Coldwel) indicated with Ramsy in area of Ramshead.

Joan Bleau Renfroana Renfrew (Atlas of Scotland) 1654 http://maps.nls.uk/view/00000436#zoom=6&lat=2455&lon=4814&layers=BT

As Pont but with clear indication of local water course

Map showing gardens that pre-date existing Caldwell House with topographic indications of probable 4

location. Location of water course to immediate west of gardens obliterated (i.e. explained) by later topographic changes associated with introduction of road to south of later Adam Caldwell House. Location of escarpments/slopes to north east of gardens place location in area in front of (to north of) existing Caldwell House. The enclosed area shown on the map is consistent with the site of the now defunct walled garden to the west of Ram's Head. Evidence of a wall base and associated building remain. Main avenue of trees on east edge of Roy garden shown on later Ordnance Survey maps and some trees (Lime) remain. Line extends from area to immediate east of Caldwell House to quarry in field south of Ram's Head. The Roy map does not show the principal house of the estate.

Charles Ross – A Map of the County of Renfrew, 1754 Reproduced by kind permission of East Renfrewshire Council Archives

Contains a rare showing of the mansion that preceded the Adam mansion and the major routes through the county at the time.

John Ainslie - Map of the County of Renfrew, 1796 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74400319#zoom=6&lat=4875&lon=2022&layers=BT

Ainslie’s map shows original road through estate along with possible detail of lake adjacent to location for existing ice house. Also original water course shown prior to later road alterations, thus supporting location of gardens shown in Roy's map. Although no clear physical evidence has been found, cartographic comparison studies indicate the formal garden of the Roy map extended to the area to the south-west of the Adam mansion – as indicated by the remains of the avenues shown on Ainslie’s map. The map also gives the first indication of ‘Fort William’ in fields behind the road through nearby Uplawmoor, possibly associated with William Mure's position of Colonel of the Renfrewshire Militia. Early census records for Neilston Parish include reference to a Fort William Inn.

Ordnance Survey Maps The site suffers from being at the junction of four maps of the First Edition Surveys, partly caused by the boundary between Renfrewshire and Ayrshire passing through the middle of the estate. As both the 25 inch and 6 inch First Edition Surveys were undertaken in 1856, a single set of notes summarise the collective findings. Within the walled garden areas of Ramshead it is the 6 inch map that provides more detail including planting arrangements, which differ from the detail of the 25 inch maps.

Ordnance Survey First Edition Six inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheets VIII & IX Surveyed 1856 Published 1858 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74425796#zoom=5&lat=7312&lon=14824&layers=BT http://maps.nls.uk/view/74425797#zoom=5&lat=7224&lon=1712&layers=BT Ordnance Survey First Edition Six Inch to One Mile Renfrewshire Sheet XV Surveyed 1857 Published 1863 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74428242#zoom=5&lat=4496&lon=12684&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey First Edition 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheet IX.5 with inset IX.1 (Beith) Surveyed 1856 Published 1858 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74951642#zoom=3&lat=9816&lon=2968&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey First Edition 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheet VIII.8 (Beith) Surveyed 1856 Published 1858 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74951621#zoom=3&lat=9784&lon=14531&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey First Edition 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet XV.11 (Neilston) Surveyed 1857 Published 1863 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74965971#zoom=3&lat=7728&lon=21187&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey First Edition 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet XV.12 with extension XV.16 (Neilston) Surveyed 1857 Published 1863 http://maps.nls.uk/view/74965974#zoom=3&lat=10210&lon=10636&layers=BT

The now defunct walled garden to the west of Ram's Head is clearly shown with a layout of an approximate square divided into four equal sections (25 inch). There is a building or other structure shown on the north wall and some remains are still evident. It is this garden that is consistent with the walled area shown on Roy's map. Other features that relate to Roy's map include the avenue of trees shown running from the quarry to the area to the east of the existing Caldwell House. There are other tree alignments shown that could also be the remains of the gardens shown on the Roy map. Initial ground survey work indicates that the avenue was of Lime trees. The First Edition Ordnance Survey maps provide the earliest indication of the various paths, fencing and features that are associated with a typical 19th century estate development. They also show the

estate before changes to the approach to Caldwell House from the east and before the construction of the tennis court to the north of the house. Various evidence remains. Most of the paths are still traceable as is a significant amount of iron railing fencing. There are the remains of an ice house alongside the site of the former lake. On one of the paths there is an ornamental bridge. The walled garden at Ram's Head remains although significant changes to the area around the north wall and house have taken place. The pump shown to the south of Ramshead also remains. This is thought to be the site of the Brandy Well referred to by Pride. The supporting evidence includes the reference to the Brandy Hill in the Clementina Hunter Blair letter and the reference to the Brandyhill walks by Semple (1782). Of the original eastern approach to the estate, the line of Saugh Avenue is still clear although no trees remain. The foundations of the current bridge over the Lugton Water appear original and an iron gatepost marks where the original track entered the wooded policies to the east of Caldwell House.

Ordnance Survey Second Edition & Later Editions Six inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet XV.SE Revised 1895, Published 1898 http://maps.nls.uk/view/75662185#zoom=3&lat=3802&lon=4504&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheet 008.08 Surveyed 1895 Published 1897 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82901118#zoom=4&lat=3203&lon=14592&layers=BT Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire

Sheet 009.1 Revised circa 1895 Published 1896 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82866612#zoom=3&lat=3747&lon=7952&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet 015.11 Revised circa 1895 Published 1897 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82901118#zoom=4&lat=2482&lon=12440&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet 015.12 & 16 Revised circa 1895 Published 1897 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82901124#zoom=4&lat=2878&lon=5408&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions Six inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet XV.SE Revised 1912, Published 1915 http://maps.nls.uk/view/75662182#zoom=3&lat=3735&lon=4616&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheet 008.08 Revised circa 1908 Published 1910 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82866561#zoom=4&lat=8986&lon=13620&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Ayrshire Sheet 009.1 Surveyed 1909 Published 1910 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82866615#zoom=4&lat=2664&lon=5504&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet 015.11 Levelled 1908 Revised circa 1912 Published 1913 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82901121#zoom=4&lat=3156&lon=13520&layers=BT

Ordnance Survey Second & Later Editions 25 inch to One mile Renfrewshire Sheet 015.12 & 16 Levelled 1908 Revised circa 1912 Published 1913 http://maps.nls.uk/view/82901127#zoom=4&lat=4006&lon=2736&layers=BT

The Ordnance Survey Second and Later Editions at both six and 25 inch scales show major changes to Caldwell Estate. These include the creation of the road leading from the east to the south of Caldwell House; the construction of a vista 'funnel' to the south of the house; creation of pheasant shooting coverts to the south west of the house; and the construction of the tennis court area to the north of the house. The funnel vista and the tennis court area are still evident. The various paths around the estate are all clearly marked.

PRIMARY & DOCUMENTARY SOURCES: (plans, manuscript documents and other estate records) Please list material consulted in date order and attach copies where possible. Give description of material, and location and reference number of archival holding.

Extract from letter from Clementina Hunter Blair to her brother David, written whilst staying at Caldwell with her sister Anne Hunter Blair (wife of Wm Mure of Caldwell) dated 17 June 1799. Originals at Blairquhan, home of the Hunter Blair family.

"Caldwell June 17th 1799...... Mr. Mure is at present in the very agony of making a new garden here - it is situated on the top of the Brandy Hill behind the Stables and Offices and is reckoned an uncommon fine foil - he has also converted the old House into Stables and means next year to take away the Offices entirely which will be an immense improvement to the place for at present they are not a beautiful ornament I never saw a man as keen about all the operations on his farm and place as Mr. Mure - oh how often when I see him occupied with all these things do I wish you home and settled in your own house equally active in the concerns of all your Place..."

Deeds Relating to Mures and Their Various Properties, Ch.2635-3799 National Library of Scotland

Mure of Caldwell Family Papers, MS4941-5018 National Library of Scotland

Invoices and Receipts for Work Done on the Caldwell Estate GD1/1314/1 (1861-1890) and GD1/1314/2 (1884-1920). National Records of Scotland (National Archives of Scotland, NAS)

HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS & PICTORIAL SOURCES: (drawings, paintings, photographs, aerial photographs etc. Include type, subject, artist, source or reference location, and date if known)

Front elevation of Caldwell House, 1773-4; Register House Plans series RHP2549 National Records of Scotland (NAS)

Ramsay, Philip A. Views of Renfrewshire: with historical and descriptive notices. William H. Lizars, Edinburgh; 1839.

RCAHMS Aerial Photography Digital Collection 29 May 2008. Oblique Aerial Images DP049020 to DP049024 http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/43051/details/caldwell+house/

RCAHMS Threatened Buildings Survey 9 April 2010. Images DP078509 to DP078525 http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/43051/details/caldwell+house/

Buildings At Risk Register for Scotland. Images from April 1992 to July 201 http://www.buildingsatrisk.org.uk/details/899242

BIBLIOGRAPHY OF PUBLISHED SOURCES: (Statistical Accounts, Gazetteers, Directories, Travel Accounts etc.) Please list publications consulted in alphabetical order. Include details of author, title, journal or periodical, and date, volume/edition and page numbers where relevant.

The Caldwell Papers (Maitland Club), 1885 Part 11, pp. 178-9

Crawfurd, George 1710. The History of the Shire of Renfrew

Pride, David 1910 A History of the Parish of Neilston. Paisley Alexander Gardner

Robertson, George 1818 The History of the Shire of Renfrew

Semple, William 1782 The History of the Shire of Renfrew

Sinclair, Sir John 1791 Statistical Account of Scotland. Vol. 2 Edinburgh: William Creech.

B2. SITE DEVELOPMENT

PRINCIPAL PERIODS OF DEVELOPMENT:

1400 - 1700 John Mure was designated 'of Caldwell' in 1409. Some time around 1450 Ramshead, Biggart, and Little Highgate lands were granted to the family. The estate of Little Caldwell remained with the Caldwells and was subsequently extended.

1700 – 1770 A new mansion house was built around 1715 by William Mure on the lands of Ramshead. Semple (1782) p180 states of William Mure, that he:

“..built a house in the estate of Caldwell, upon an eminence, about a mile southwest of the old castle of Caldwell..” This area is the highest part of the estate. Indications from early maps and on the ground suggest that access to this area and earlier dwellings may have originally been from the north along the straight line of the ‘East Lodge’ track and approaching Ramshead from the east. Ainslie's map of 1796 provides some indication to complement the evidence on the ground, that there was also a track approaching this area from the south. In William Roy’s Military Survey of Scotland, 1747-55, access to the area of the 1715 mansion is associated with the installation of a formal garden in the early eighteenth century, the layout of which is shown on Roy’s map. Evidence of this garden remains including some of the tree lined approach from the south and a series of regularly spaced root hollows consistent with the central avenue shown on Roy's map. Subsequent Ordnance Survey maps also show some of the remains of the formal garden. Major agricultural improvement was being undertaken on various parts of the estate. From the family papers we have, 1766-67, an account for trees and other plants from Archibald Dickson of Hassendeanburn (Nursery established 1728). The account includes “five hundred spruce firs” and in each year “one thousand two years transp. Firs”. Semple also writes of William Mure:

“In the year 1754, he built a large four square court of officehouses, viz, coachhouses, stables and others, upon the foresaid eminence; the plan being superior, in my opinion, to any I have seen in Scotland.”

1770 – circa1850 Construction of the Adam mansion 1771-73 and immediate estate development. This was built by the son of William Mure, William 'Baron Mure' about 200 yards lower down from the 1715 mansion. Semple (1782) p181 provides a description of the building including:

“In the attick story of this superb building are two cisterns, viz one at each end, for conveying the water, by roans, down the inside of this beautiful grand fabric; but there is very little of this elegant large modern house repaired within as yet.”.

From the family papers, work such as fitting of the staircase was being carried out around 1790 and indicates that the house may not have been complete until around that time. Writing to her brother in 1799, whilst staying at Caldwell, Clementina Hunter Blair says:

“...Mr. Mure us at present in the very agony of making a new garden here - it is situated on the top of the Brandy Hill behind the Stables and Offices and is reckoned an uncommon fine foil - he has also converted the old House into Stables and means next year to take away the Offices entirely which will be an immense improvement to the place for at present they are not a beautiful ornament I never saw a man as keen about all the operations on his farm and place as Mr. Mure - oh how often when I see him occupied with all these things do I wish you home

and settled in your own house equally active in the concerns of all your Place...”

The following annotated map illustrates the remains of various routes associated with the three main periods of occupation described above.

circa1850 – circa1890 Secondary estate development including tennis court, bowling green and curling pond. The tennis court is not on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey (1858) but does appear in later editions of the 1890's. Within an article titled Rejoicings amongst the tenantry, feuars &c. connected with Caldwell Estate The Glasgow Herald of 1868 (issue 8942) reports on the celebrations of the birth of a daughter to the Mures. In a speech by the chairman of the occasion, Colonel Mure is described as:

“...meeting them as one of themselves on the bowling green in summer and on the curling pond in winter...” circa1865 – 1909 Major improvement/investment period. Ramshead Cottage refurbishment; new gardens and Roudans cottage constructed (Ramshead referred to as 'Old Gardens' - (from Glasgow Herald obituary, 1893, Issue 35); Keeper’s Cottage refurbishment;

From the ‘Invoices and Receipts for Work Done on the Caldwell Estate’, there is much evidence of drainage and improvement programmes. Also, early 19th century raising of pheasants and advice to others on topic. Later estate developments associated with pheasant

shooting and associated activity (including sending dogs by rail elsewhere); late 19th century establishment of 'new' gardens with “planting at Melon Field, and new gardens next road from March 1868...” and “repairing staging in greenhouse” (1880) 1909 – 1987 Caldwell House remained the Mure family home until 1909. It was rented out for a period. In 1927 Govan District Health Board converted the building into a hospital for mentally handicapped children which operated until 1985. Alterations, including the removal of the main stair to accommodate a lift shaft, led to a general decline in the state of the interior. External changes also occurred.

1987 – Estate sold in lots through Secretary of State for Scotland moving into private ownership. General deterioration of many parts of the estate with serious damage to Caldwell House following a fire in 1995.

PRINCIPAL ARCHITECTS/DESIGNERS ASSOCIATED WITH SITE: (please reference source of information)

Robert Adam (1728-92) Historic Scotland listing text http://www.scottisharchitects.org.uk/architect_full.php?id=402763 (Account for design work: Mure of Caldwell Family Papers)

ORAL RECORDS/REMINISCENSES: Please include a list of any people interviewed during the course of research/survey work. Include name and role of interviewee (eg. family member, former employee, local resident), date of conversation and major dates, features or events recalled. Attach a transcript of the conversation if possible.

Some time around 1990, conversation between the current owner of Ramshead and J Gemmel (age 90+) whose father had been Estate factor/Land Agent at Ramshead from mid 1890's revealed a lighting strike had damaged southernmost area of walled garden in the early 20th century.

C. SITE SURVEY Use map provided to mark positions and boundaries. Take photographs where possible. ARCHITECTURAL ELEMENTS Note the materials used, the dates and styles of various phases of development, and category of listing if appropriate. PRINCIPAL HOUSE OR BUILDING:

Castellated 3-storey and basement, symmetrical mansion house. Five bay entrance front with later projecting porch. Later single storey wing and laundry addition to north-west. Harled with ashlar dressings. Grey slate roof now collapsed.

Semple in 1782 (see reference above) refers to the state of repair of the interior of the Adam building at the time. Records of interior finishing work indicate that it may not have been fully habitable until around 1790.

Caldwell House

OFFICES (stables, outbuildings, etc):

Former Keeper’s House marked as ‘laundry’ with adjacent bowling green on late 19th century maps. Thomson map of 1820 shows the Keeper’s House in different location to Historic Scotland Listing entry.

Keeper’s Cottage/Laundry Building

Rams Head Cottage occupied by Land Agent/Factor late 19th/early 20th century when known as 'Old Gardens'.

Roudans Cottage (late 19th century) occupied by farm manager. Adjacent are a number of buildings likely to include gardeners' bothies. Also evidence of an extensive cold frame yard and heated glasshouse area.

HOME FARM OR MAINS:

Remains of farm buildings close to Gleniffer Road entrance. Farm at Caldwell crossroads also.

BOUNDARIES (External & internal; estate walls, ha-has, park fences etc.):

Extensive use of iron park railings in the area to the north of and adjacent to Caldwell House.

Possible ha-ha at east-west line at southern end of Glen Wood.

Likely line of ancient Hawthorn boundary just south of Ramshead and extending to possible remains of Yew hedge adjacent to earlier settlement. Lines of existing north walls of Ramshead walled garden and earlier garden to west correspond to boundary marked on Roy map. Also remaining Hawthorns in area to immediate south of Ramshead gardens correspond to boundary shown on Roy map.

GATES/GATE LODGES:

Original east (actually north-east) and west lodge houses demolished. New east lodge late 19th

century renovated late 1980’s. Original west lodge location approximately 50metres from current gate as road layout changed.

GARDEN BUILDINGS (Summer houses, view houses, temples, grottoes etc):

Remains of site of probable belvedere at highest point in estate adjacent to Ramshead. Remains of ice house adjacent to former lake.

Site of Probable Belvedere Outward Views Now Obscured by Tree Growth

CHAPELS/MAUSOLEUMS/BURIAL GROUNDS:

None

CONSERVATORIES/FERNERIES:

None

GARDEN STATUARY (Fountains, statues, sundials, monuments etc.) Note any inscriptions:

None

BURIAL GROUNDS/CEMETERIES (Note principal memorials and headstones with inscriptions where possible):

None

BRIDGES:

Small ornamental bridge on pleasure path just beyond ice house with cascade. Pleasure paths shown on 1858 Ordnance Survey.

Ornamental Bridge Above the Cascade

TERRACES (Including steps & stairways):

Remains of terraces from previous 1715 mansion evident.

WALLED GARDENS:

Ram’s Head Cottage Walled Garden (1790’s) Category C Listed Incorporating Hot House constructed in 1800.

Remains of probable earlier walled garden and or orchard to west of the above.

Walled Gardens mid-19th Century (From First Edition Ordnance Survey 1856)

Outer Walls of Ramshead Garden to North and East

Ramshead Garden Repairs to Brickwork of Inner Heated Wall

Remains of later enclosed garden, late 19th century, adjacent to Roudan’s Cottage.

AVENUES, CARRIAGE DRIVES, ORNAMENTAL WALKS, SERVICE DRIVES ETC:

Three distinct phases of development are visible as described earlier.

The earliest detectable settlement appears to be in the area directly to the south of the defunct walled garden to the west of Rams Head Cottage. There is a clear platform and apparent remains of a Yew hedge. Access to this area appears to have been via a track that continued the line of the East Lodge Track in a southerly direction and turning due west across the area

to the south of Rams Head Cottage. Remains of this track are still plainly visible on the western edge of the golf course fairway and continuing through the wooded area and finally westwards across open ground. Also visible are remaining Beech trees on the golf course that lined this continuation of this approach from the north. Early Ordnance Survey maps show the existence of more trees lining the approach. There are also a significant number of pollarded trees, particularly Chestnut, adjacent to this approach.

William Roy’s Military Survey of Scotland, 1747-55 shows a formal garden in the area of the 1712 mansion. Possible evidence of this garden remains including pollarded Beech, Sycamore and Chestnut as well as some of the Beech and Lime tree-lined approach from the south. Subsequent Ordnance Survey maps also show some of the remains of the formal garden. A series of regularly spaced root hollows appear to define the line of the central avenue shown on the Roy map.

Also remaining are the Brandyhill walks referred to by William Semple in History of the Shire of Renfrew, 1782. In referring to the work undertaken by Capt William Muir he states:

“Amongst his numerous planting, on the forementioned eminence, adjacent to the north east side of the house, are several gravel serpentine walks, called the Brandyhill walks”

The eminence referred to could only be that to the north of Rams Head Cottage. These walks are in relatively good condition and in regular use.

The network of 'Pleasure Paths' still remains.

Location of the Ramshead and Brandyhill Walks on Elevated Ground at the North of the Caldwell Estate

The Brandyhill Walks

Network of Surviving Pleasure Paths Illustrated on First Edition Ordnance Survey 1856

Earlier access routes from east and west and indicative original approach from south all still visible as per John Ainslie’s 1796 Map of the County of Renfrew.

Approach from true east (Saugh Avenue) still visible and iron gate post as track enters wooded area immediately adjacent to Caldwell House.

East (north-east) Lodge Approach: Part of Avenue of Beech Trees that Extended to Parish Church at Neilston and Part of Main ‘Designed’Approach

ROCKERIES:

None

WATER FEATURES (natural & man-made including rivers, cascades, lochs, pools etc.):

Remains of lake at junction of east and west approach to Caldwell House.

Remains of cascade below ornamental bridge on pleasure path above ice house.

Cascade Below Ornamental Bridge

ANY OTHER FEATURES NOT INCLUDED ABOVE (Include any historic or modern feature and indicate use where possible):

Bowling Green adjacent to Laundry area.

Lake adjacent to ice house used for curling (Source Glasgow Herald; August 31, 1868; Rejoicings amongst the Tenantry, Feuars, &c. connected with Caldwell Estate).

Site of former tennis court is still visible.

A major feature of the designed landscape appears to be the tower referred to as 'Place of Caldwell. In 1775 Armstrong shows this as a ruin. In 1821 Ainslie shows it as a pigeon house. From the probable belvedere at the highest point of the estate, adjacent to Ramshead this would have been an important vista, before being obscured by subsequent tree growth.

Caldwell Tower from the East Lodge Drive

A possible constructed item is the Linn on the Crossburn Glen within the Glenn Wood. This is to the north of the estate outside the current boundary. A track is shown leading to this likely recreational area which was accessed via a path. The path continues to the area formerly occupied by the estate sawmill. At the point at which the path led off the East lodge track, there is evidence of two Lime trees used to frame the entrance to the path.

Caldwell Estate, Water Pump Listed Category: B

Water Pump in Parkland to the North of Caldwell House

Remains of ice house adjacent to remains of lake.

Remains of Ice House

PLANTED ELEMENTS: The garden or park should divide up naturally and historically into different areas, eg ornamental gardens, parkland, walled garden, policy planting. Each area should be delineated on a plan and current use noted. 1. ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS GRASSED AREAS (Lawns, meadows, terraces):

None now evident although terraces from previous 1715 mansion evident

FLOWER BEDS (Indicate theme or type – parterres, perennial herbaceous border/annual bedding where possible. Note whether significant plant collection):

Site of former double border of flower beds discernible between the now overgrown Yew hedges. See Shrubbery below.

SHRUBBERY INCLUDING HEDGES & TOPIARY (Include details of height, species etc. if possible):

Very overgrown Beech hedge lines the current approach to the house and the north side of the road and extends along the track to the west side of the house.

What was probably planted as a Yew hedge as part of the approach to the glasshouse and other buildings of the late 19th century garden (adjacent to Roudans Cottage), now appears as a Yew tunnel through overgrowth.

Former Yew Hedging

ORNAMENTAL TREE PLANTING (Single specimens, groups – include details of age and species if possible):

Various throughout the estate corresponding to two main periods of development. Many pollarded Chestnut, Beech and Sycamore associated with 18th century planting. Distinctive conifers in Brandyhill Walks area.

Pollarded Chestnut

Later 19th century plantings include Monkey Puzzle, Turkey Oak, various Cedars, Wellingtonia, Cypress and Rhododendron.

Ornamental Tree Planting Adjacent to Caldwell House

AVENUE PLANTING (May also cross parkland and policy planting. Note predominant species and whether single or double planted if possible:

Four significant avenues have existed and are still evident. The earliest, indicated on the Roy map, is an avenue of Lime trees with occasional Beech and led to the area of the 1712 era mansion.

A major feature of the development associated with the 1773 Adam mansion is the East Lodge track approach to the house. This included a Beech avenue extending all the way to Neilston. The approach to the house appears to have been further enhanced through the picturesque 'framing' of features such as the cascade, through the planting of distinctive marker trees such as Yew. The point at which the track to the Linn leaves the East Lodge track was framed with a pair of Lime trees. The rising land of the final approach to the house meant that the house was dramatically concealed until visitors were within approximately 50 metres.

The view from the south of Caldwell House is framed by a funnelled avenue of lime trees which appear to be part of a 19th century planting.

A relocation of the gardens for the house took place sometime in the late 19th century to the area adjacent to Roudan's Cottage. The entrance to the new gardens includes an unusual avenue of Monkey Puzzle trees.

ANY OTHER ORNAMENTAL PLANTING FEATURE NOT COVERED ABOVE:

None

2. PARKLAND GRASSED AREAS (Note current use, amenity grassland, agricultural use – grazing, cultivation etc.):

Abandoned former parkland to the north of Caldwell House

Abandoned Parkland to the North of Caldwell House with Remains of Park Railings

TREE PLANTING (Individual specimens, clumps, belts, roundels etc. Note species if possible, and whether fenced):

Extensive planting throughout the estate including the parkland to the north of the house. Specimen trees dating from the 19th century include Cedars, Cypress, Copper Beech, Chilean Pine etc.

Parkland with Tree Planting & Water Pump

Turkey Oak in Parkland

ANY OTHER PARKLAND FEATURE NOT INCLUDED ABOVE:

None

3. POLICY WOODLAND PLANTING COMPOSITION (Note composition of woodland; deciduous/coniferous/mixed, and principal species if possible. Note current use eg. commercial timber cropping/amenity woodland):

Areas to the north-east and south-east of Caldwell House and the around Ramshead containing the Brandyhill walks are largely deciduous woodland, mostly native species with Beech and including some Hazel. Some of these areas have been affected by Rhododendron growth.

Brandy Hill with Woodlands from the East Lodge Track

Areas to the south and the north-west of Caldwell House were planted with conifers, probably in the period 1965-75. This has swamped some of the earlier planting including the area to the immediate south-west of the house, designed for pheasant shooting in the latter part of the 19th century (see Ordnance Survey map 1891). There is a crop of Norwegian Spruce to the south west of the house with other areas containing further commercial prospects albeit with significant storm damage.

Further to the north of the estate, records show that there were plantings around 1770, likely to be of 'Spruce Firs' as indicated in an account of the time (Caldwell Family Papers, National Library of Scotland).

4. VIEWS, VISTAS, BORROWED LANDSCAPE & PERIPHERAL AREAS, KEY VIEWS (please note views inwards to the house, outwards from the house, and internally within the landscape):

Outwards from the house: to the north onto the rising ground of the policies and designed landscape, see parkland images above. To the south with a view framed by an avenue of Lime trees towards open country and (from upper floors) to the sea and Ailsa Craig.

BORROWED LANDSCAPE (please note any features, natural or man-made, lying outside the designed landscape which act as eye-catchers or contribute to the outward views):

Pigeon House now labelled Place of Caldwell (Caldwell Tower) as indicated on Ainslie map of1821, but previously as a ruin (Armstrong, 1775). This would be part of the vista from the

probable belvedere located at the highest point within the estate, but now obscured by tree growth.

View Towards Caldwell Tower (Centr) from Former Belvedere

Detail from Above Image: Caldwell Tower Between Branches of Birch Tree

PERIPHERAL AREAS (please note any features lying outside the main landscape but which are clearly designed eg. regularly spaced roadside/field boundary trees, estate walls etc.):

19th century planting of roadside Beech trees from Caldwell Estate through Uplawmoor village to Neilston.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CURRENT CONDITION OR CARE OF THE LANDSCAPE

Although largely neglected for many years, some parts of the estate are in reasonable order. This includes the areas covered by the 'pleasure paths' and the Brandyhill walks. Some tree

thinning, fallen tree removal and Rhododendron control in these areas would restore them to good order.

The important area of the Roy garden appears to have been largely undisturbed since whatever changes were made to that area of the landscape following construction of the Adam mansion, the surviving Caldwell House.

Thus there is a contiguous area to the north of Caldwell House that might be readily conserved. Some careful work in removal of largely fallen conifers to the immediate west of the East Lodge approach would facilitate restoration of a significant and important part of the estate including the aforementioned dramatic approach. A further area that could be readily conserved is the woodland to the immediate south west of Caldwell House, where there has been no conifer planting, nor extensive Rhododendron growth.

SURVEY DRAWINGS AND/OR PHOTOGRAPHS

Please include a list and copies where possible of any drawings, photographs made/taken during the ground survey.

A selection of survey photographs is included in this document. A full set of photographs is available, together with a copy of this recording form, in East Renfrewshire Local History Centre, Giffnock Library, Station Road, Giffnock G46 6JF. http://www.renfrewshire.gov.uk/webcontent/Home/Services/Leisure+and+culture/Heritage+and+local+history/ http://www.portaltothepast.co.uk/

D. SUMMARY HISTORY OF THE SITE

This section should be set out in chronological form and should include information on the way the site has developed and changed since it was first recorded, using dates and maps where possible. The names of owners, architects or designers involved, and relevant historical events should be recorded, and the sources noted:

(Also see earlier section on Site Development for further detail and references re the following)

1400 -1700 John Mure was designated 'of Caldwell' in 1409. Some time around 1450 Ramshead, Biggart, and Little Highgate lands were granted to the family. The estate of Little Caldwell remained with the Caldwells and was subsequently extended.

1700 – 1770 A new mansion house was built around 1715 by William Mure on the lands of Ramshead, along with an extensive complex of office buildings and stables in the same area. Some time during this period the formal garden illustrated on the Roy Military Survey was constructed

1770 - circa1850 Construction of the Adam mansion 1771-73 and immediate estate development. This was

built by the son of William Mure, William 'Baron Mure' about 200 yards lower down from the 1715 mansion. Some key Pleasure Paths, the Brandyhill Walks, were well established by 1782 (Semple) and possibly associated with the earlier mansion. The Adam Mansion was still being internally fitted out in 1790. circa1865 – 1909 Major improvement/investment period. Ramshead Cottage refurbishment; new gardens (~1868) and Roudans cottage constructed (Ramshead became referred to as 'Old Gardens'); Keepers cottage refurbishment;

1909 – 1987 Caldwell House remained the Mure family home until 1909. It was rented out for a period. In 1927 Govan District Health Board converted the building into a hospital for mentally handicapped children which operated until 1985. A laundry building was constructed directly against the east wall of the mansion house. Further alterations, including the removal of the main stair to accommodate a lift shaft, led to a general decline in the state of both the interior and exterior.

1987 – 2013 Estate sold in lots through Secretary of State for Scotland moving into private ownership. General deterioration of many parts of the estate with serious damage to Caldwell House following a fire in 1995.

Deeds Relating to Mures and Their Various Properties, Ch.2635-3799 National Library of Scotland.

Mure of Caldwell Family Papers MS4941-5018, National Library of Scotland.

Invoices and Receipts for Work Done on the Caldwell Estate GD1/1314/1 (1861-1890) and GD1/1314/2 (1884-1920). National Archives of Scotland.

NAME:

East Renfrewshire Designed Landscapes and Gardens Group https://sites.google.com/site/erdlgg/ under the auspices of the Garden History Society in Scotland http://www.gardenhistorysociety.org/

DATES OF GROUND SURVEY WORK:

2009 to 2012

DATE RESEARCH COMPLETED:

Ongoing