Welcome Stranger

WELCOME STRANGER BY SEBASTIAN JUNGER

Author Sebastian Junger learns that impressions are often wrong-and other hard-won lessons from the road.

My plan was to cross Montana, Idaho, and Washington before it got too cold, then work my way down to Los Angeles and return home across the desert and the Deep South. I figured I'd make it back by Christmas. My first night was spent in a blizzard in the South Dakota Badlands, the second in the desolate little town of Gillette, Wyoming. The next morning, I limped out to the highway and stood in the shrieking wind under a high, cold, cloudless sky with my thumb jabbed out. Freight liners barreled past me. Locals drove by in pickups and threw beer bottles that exploded against the frozen pavement. After two or three hours, I saw a man working his way toward me along the on-ramp from town. He wore filthy canvas coveralls and carried a lack lunch box, and as he got closer, I could see that his hair was matted in a way that occurs only after months on the skids. Gillette was a hard-bitten mining town that had fallen on bad times, and I thought that anyone 20-degree (minus 6-degree Celsius) day was probably pretty desperate. I put my hand on the pepper spray in my pocket and turned to face him. My backpack was on the pavement by my feet. I was ready. "Youbeen out here along?", he asked. I nodded. "Where you headed?" "California" "Warm out there." "Yup." "You got enough food?" I thought about this. Clearly, he didn't have any, and if I admitted that I did, he'd ask for some. That in itself wasn't a problem, but it would mean opening my backpack and revealing all my obviously expensive camping gear. I felt alone and exposed and ripe for pillage, and I just didn't want to do that. Twenty years later, I still remember my answer: "I got some cheese." "You won't make it to California with just a little cheese," he said. "You'll starve." At first, I didn't understand. What was he saying exactly? I kept my hand on the pepper spray. "Believe me," he said, "I know. Listen, I'm living in a car back in town, and every day I walk out to the mine to see if they need me. Today they don't, so I won't be needing this lunch of mine." I began to sag with understanding. In his world, whatever you have in your bag is alll you've got, and he knew "a little cheese" would never get me to California. "I'm fine really," I said. "I don't need your lunch." He shook his head and opened his box. It was a typical church meal - a bologna sandwich, an apple, and a bag of chips - and I kept protesting, but he wouldn't hear of it. I finally took his lunch and watched him walk back down the on-ramp toward town. I learned a lot of things in college, I thought, and I learned a lot from the books I'd read on my own. I had learned things Newfoundland and in Europe and in Mexico and in my hometown of Belmont, Massachusetts, but I had to stand out there on that frozen piece of interstate to learn true generosity from homeless man. The lessons were piling up. You had to be wary when you traveled, I realized, but you also had to be open. You had to protect yourself, but you couldn't be so suspicious that you'd lie to avoid giving food to a stranger. These were lessons from the harsher parts of the world, but started to think that maybe they were applicable anywhere. It seemed as though there must be a way of traveling that made you ready for anything. The starting point was respect; if you didn't lead with that, even with street-corner thugs, nothing was going to turn out well. So you start with respect and see where it goes; if it doesn't work, you switch to something else. On a highway on-ramp in Wyoming, everyone is equal, things pretty much come down to how you treat one another. There's a certain liberty in that; there's a certain justice. Obviously, the more money you spend when you're traveling, the less likely you are to find yourself in those situations. And yet. I once said "sir" to a doorman at a fancy hotel, and a friend asked me why I'd done that. I can't remember my answer exactly, but I suspect that it related to that guy out on the highway. He's always with me no to make assumptions about people, reminding me to keep my heart open. Everyone has a role in the world, and who is to say which role is more worthy or admirable than any other. That became a cornerstone of my journalism. Since every person I've interviewed has led a life unique to them, they have something to say about the world that i couldn't get from anyone else. That gives them a value that transcends any job or social rank they might have. I began to see that you could divide up the world in many different ways, and some of those ways actually put a homeless man from Wyoming at the top. He might not have known it, but I do, and the point of my work has been to communicate that. I kept traveling, and I kept learning. Once, I caught a bus up into a wild and remote part of western Spain called the Sierra de Gredos because I'd heard there were still wolves up there. It was a hasty plan conceived the night before in a barroom in Salamanca, and as soon as I stepped off the bus, I realized that I was in over my head: It was snowing hard, and the mountain town where I found myself seemed completely deserted. There wasn't even a hotel. In the quickly gathering dusk, I started walking back down the road looking for a place to spend the night. The only plan I could devise was to build a fire and try to keep myself awake until sawn, but after five or ten minutes of walking, I saw a lone pair of headlights coming down the mountainside. The car made its way slowly along the switchbacks, and when it approached me, the driver stopped and rolled down the window. "Get in," he said. "No one walks in these mountains at night. You'll die." An hour later, I was back in that bar in Salamanca. What sense of responsibility, I wondered, had compelled that man to stop? He had no idea whether or not I was dangerous, and yet he took a risk to ensure that a complete stranger would be OK. It seemed as though he understood there to be some sort of general citizenship in the world, and that if a fellow citizen were threatened, it was his duty - everyone's duty - to intervene. As I got older, I traveled less for its own sake and more for journalism assignments. I found myself covering wars in West Africa and Afghanistan and the Balkans - situations that were far more dangerous than the aimless trips of my youth. However, those early trips undoubtedly affected me more than I'd realized at the time. They may not have taught me the specific skills of my new trade, but it was in places like Spain and Mexico Where I first learned how to comport myself in the world. Many years later, I confronted the daunting task of walking into a fishermen's bar in Gloucester, Massachusetts, and asking the bartender a woman named Ethel Shatford - about the death of her son. A local boat, the Andrea Gail, had gone down in a massive storm in 1991, and the book I wrote about her was eventually published as The Perfect Storm. The Crow's Nest was the sort of bar where everyone turns to look at a stranger as soon as he walks in. I ignored the stares, took a seat at the bar, and ordered a beer from Ethel. I had no idea how to begin, but I had help. They were all still with me, I realized - the man in Wyoming and the rest of the people I've met on my travels - they were still there, guiding and informing me, whispering their lessons in my ear. And in one way or another they all had something to tell me about how I should approach Ethel Shatford. Just tell her, I finally thought. Tell her she knows something about the world that a lot of people might need to hear.