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Maclcod's Photo Studio, Sydney, N. Surf Scene near Louisbourg Waves topped with fluffy white caps of spray, getting higher and gaining speed as they near the shore, then booming and crashing, with spume flying, the monsters are laid low with only little ripples left to dance awhile on the shore before the run out for another fling [2] FOREWORD f J ^IVE YOUNG MEN were seated in the renders instructive the story of America. It's a land I I —, smoking room of a well-known New fairly breathing tradition and romance. Old World

^^ | England Club one evening late last May. association—New World achievement-—these are all / I "You chaps have been all over the world," connected up in Cape Breton!" ^^ said one of them. "Now, I have a vaca- "By all means go to Cape Breton," said the ETH- tion of some weeks due me. Where shall I spend it, NOLOGIST. "There in the radius of less than a together with my family, to the best advantage and half day's journey, are four races, speaking four dif- at reasonable cost?" ferent languages (though all speak English). There "In Cape Breton," said the SPORTSMAN. "There you will find quaint villages whose inhabitants speak you will find the best salmon fly-fishing in the world. the language of Old France and live after the manner Salmon up to and over fifty pounds are landed from of their old world forefathers of the 17th century; those pools and streams. It may take you many reflecting with accuracy the manners, customs and hours to prove yourself master of the Atlantic salmon general culture which prevailed two centuries ago. and even if you do fail, you've had a morning's or There you will find, too, descendants of a hardy race afternoon's recreation which you will not exchange for who, more than two hundred years ago, came from any other thrill a sportsman ever experienced. the northern British islands to seek out new living You've got to be some angler to land the gamey conditions in a land of plenty, and their children in this Atlantic salmon of Cape Breton! Besides, in the generation still speak the mother tongue of their old Tuna and Sword fishing, off the seacoast, is excitement land. There, also, you will meet the American abo- sufficient for a lifetime. There are also deer and rigines and listen to the soft, bewitchingly musical wild fowl, in season. Then, again, they have really speech of the original tribal races of this continent. delightful golf links located beside sea or lake. It's Nobody with a spark of interest in the early stages of an amazing country!" American continental development can afford to miss a visit to Cape Breton!" "Yes, in Cape Breton," said the NATURE LOVER AND ARTIST. "That Island is a pure wonder! It "Cape Breton?" said the inquirer. "I never heard is not the case of just a lovely spot here or a delightful of it. If what you say were true, it would be as well scene there. The entire country is simply one un- known as Switzerland or Florida. You're romancing!" spoiled natural picture gallery. In no other part of "No, we are not romancing!" retorted the other four. the world where I have been are there such sunset "In the first place, we've been there. And if you don't effects. When a stranger sees this land in the splendor believe us, turn to the published statements of such of its wondrously glorious sunrises and sunsets he is men as Charles Dudley Warner, Alexander Graham wholly conscious that this truly is a region of the ut- Bell, Dr. J. Warren Harper (Hartford, Conn.), the most charm. Talk about landscapes, seascapes, lake Editor of the Pretoria (South Africa) 'Der Volkstein,' and and mountain scenery! Nowhere else that I Albert T. Forke (Boston, Mass.), and others. No! know of has natural beauty been so lavishly handed we are in absolute earnest. Cape Breton offers better out. And it has splendid motor highways as well. sport than any other part of ; it con- Cape Breton will call you back season after season." tains more diversified scenery than Virginia, Vermont, "Surely, in Cape Breton," said the MAN LEARN- New Hampshire, , Quebec, Ontario, or Cali- ED IN HISTORY. "There the discoverer (Leif fornia; its historic traditions excel those of all other Ericson) of the American continent first set foot, military or otherwise glorified spots of the Americas. five hundred years before Columbus started upon his Its racial associations and the customs of its peoples quest. There the great fishing industry on this side of are the most interesting on this continent. Even the Atlantic took its rise. There our New England more attractive still is the warmth of the genuine forefathers captured a mighty fortress—the most Highland Scotch greeting a visitor receives-—the very important conquest of the war of the Austrian suc- best the house affords is set before the wayfarer; this cession, and there was fought and won the initial wonderful hospitality of the Cape Breton people is the battle of that war which brought the northern half of product of a land of incomparable and varied beauties this continent under Anglo-Saxon control. There are acting upon a population singularly sensitive to the the most impressive of the historic ruins of the New influence of nature. Go there, see and learn all these World, where our own forefathers enriched this con- things for yourself!" tinent by their exploits. That little Island's past For proof of this, turn the page.

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/. Cape Porcupine, , looking across 3. Bras d'Or Lakes, looking towards Grand Narrows to Cape Breton on left, and to Whycocomagh on right 2. Mabou Mountain, Valley and River 4] : : WHAT YOUR OWN PEOPLE SAY ABOUT

Dr. wrote: "The unspoiled beauty of Cape Breton has made un- "I have travelled round the globe. I have seen the me a booster. You have no hot dog stands; no Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes, Alps, sightly bill boards; nobody holding you up for an extra and the Highlands of , but for simple beauty dollar because you are a stranger. But always and Cape Breton outrivals them all." everywhere we meet that wonderful Cape Breton Highland hospitality. Your roads are good; you are Dr. Warren Harper, Author and Globe Trotter, J. not crowded or rushed; you can enjoy the scenery Hartford, Conn.: (and it's charming). I love your country and will tell "Ingonish is located among the finest scenery in the my friends. I love Cape Breton, have enjoyed every world. Simply superb! Indeed, Cape Breton is, in minute of my trip; and we will dream of its beauties, my opinion and I have been from California to the — and its lovely air and charming, whole-hearted people big dam of Assouan, Egypt, on the Nile, and from all winter; and hope for our next holidays to hurry so to South America, and all between, we can see you again." including the Swiss and Italian Alps—the most beau- tiful country in the world.' Another gentleman, who came here last season from the United States, bought a new car on this side, Charles Dudley Warner's tribute spent two months touring this Island, sold his car "One seeing would not like to be detained before returning home, had this to say: a prisoner in Eden .... winding around the base of "The roads are good and the scenery remarkable. a wooded range, and crossing its point, we came There is room everywhere, no rush or crowding, lots upon a sight that took all the sleep out of us. This was the famous Bras d'Or .... The scene was of chances to stop and enjoy the many beauty spots without being shoved off the road as you are in the enchanting .... It was enough to sit on deck for- States. I coming again next year and will bring ward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the sense, am of the delicious day. With such wonder perpetual and a party of six cars. My neighbors will love to hear such scenery always present, sin in this world would an unspoiled spot where weather and scenery and soon become an impossibility .... The most elec- people give you a real holiday." tric American, heir of all the nervous diseases of all An English lady now resident in New York City, the ages, could not but find peace in this scene of who intimately knows all of the beauty spots of Nor- tranquil beauty, and sail on into a great and deepening way, Switzerland and of Scotland, said last summer, contentment. Would the voyage could last for an upon her first visit to Cape Breton, that this Island has age, with the same sparkling, but tranquil, sea, and the infinitely greater charm than anything Europe has to same environment of hills, near and remote. The hills offer. She and her friends are coming again this year. approached and fell away in lines of undulating grace, A prominent gentleman from Pasadena, California, draped with tender color which helped to carry the who has all of his life travelled extensively and has seen imagination beyond the earth." everything that is worthwhile in the world's natural The Editor of the Pretoria (South Africa) "Der attraction, spent several weeks in Cape Breton last Volkstein" season. He said that he was coaxed to come here. "I saw the Bras d'Or. Heaven help me! I thought "You have," he said, "the most comfortable roads I had never in my life seen anything before! Just over which we travelled all the way from the Pacific what it was I could not say. Waters smiling tenderly; coast. You have a most beautiful country. I have little rocky prominences held out loving arms; masses secured all of your scenic views that I could lay my of sombre green on the unfamiliar trees blended with hands upon and have mailed them to my friends, and the gentle melancholy of the falling shades; unseen some of these people are even now on their way to your voices spoke; all the glories of the palette were con- Island and others will follow in September. You'll centrated in that single, brilliant color of a sunset be crowded next summer." As he stated, his friends such as comes but seldom in a lifetime." did arrive later in the season. Here is the outspoken expression of opinion given A lady visitor from Waipu, New Zealand, one of the by a prominent New York lawyer, counsel for one of most beautiful countries in the world, made an ex- the big railway systems of the United States, who tended visit to Cape Breton in 1927. Delighted spent last summer in Cape Breton: beyond measure with her stay, she gave published £«». CAPE BRETON

/. "Beinn Bregh," Baddeck; tomb of Dr. A. Graham Bell 4. Lingan Country Golf Club Links, near Sydney on top of Mountain 5. Reflections, Lake O'Law 2 Port Hawkesbury on Canso Ferry Landing 6. Bird's-eye view of Baddeck 3. Cloud effect, Bras d'Or Lakes, looking up St. Patrick's Channel : :

$+ CAPE BRETON •^ff expression to her unqualified admiration of the scenic present a picture never to be forgotten, for they have attractiveness of the Island. This is what she says a variety of foliage, form and color seldom if ever " 'Land of brown heath and shaggy wood;— excelled in the world-renowned Canadian forests. Land of the mountain and the flood' "In the undergrowth there is also found an excellent "In very truth Cape Breton—a new Scotland, and variety. The hunter as he roams over the shoulders of fresh from the hand of Nature. In this beautiful the mountains finds his limbs entwined with ten island one finds around every turn of the road the thousand growths and winking flowers. still blue lake, the sylvan stream, or the babbling "In the far stretch of one hundred miles in the brook, where the lazy salmon or trout lie hidden among hinterland forest there are found many added attrac- the shadows and reflections of fir-clad banks until tions in this paradise of nature. Here the pleasure lured to destruction by the angler. The Island is a seeker revels in his sport, as he brings down the par- fisherman's paradise and the tourist's delight. Its tridge, duck, quail, wild geese, bear, deer, caribou, wild natural beauty of well-wooded mountains, lake, fox and marten. and stream is made easily accessible by hundreds of "The meadows on either side of the river are inter- miles of wonderful highway. At intervals of a few rupted here and there by low, precipitous hills, be- miles, one may find comfortable inns, with the best of yond which extend the uplands back to the base of the fare, and usually as 'mine host' a hospitable, intelli- mountains. In these meadowlands are groves of what gent, well-informed Scot, who is ready and willing to the natives call the 'Balm of Gilead' trees, the fra- give any local information not already supplied by an grance of which in June and July is equalled only by efficient Tourist Association. Hence motoring in that of the wild red roses and sweet little white clover Cape Breton is an unique experience of perfect physical which grow in abundance on the uplands, all of which comfort and aesthetic enjoyment. with the odors of firs, spruce, ash, juniper, maple, of "The lakes alone are gems beauty and one who beech, and birch, which grow in the valley and on the has been so fortunate as to see them bathed in the sides of the mountains, fill the atmosphere with the sunset fail multi-colored glow of a gorgeous cannot perfume of God. to be impressed by the aptness of the euphonious "During the soft days in July and August when the French name 'Bras d'Or' Arm of Gold. — sun bursts forth in spots between the various colored "Cape Breton is truly a land of enchantment, rich clouds, which, in rich abundance slumber over the in natural beauty and historic interest—through valley, casting their sombre shadows on mountain sides, Louisbourg and its early associations—and replete meadows and uplands, Margaree suggests 'the land with all modern facilities for the comfort of the that is fairer than day.' travelling public." "The remarkable sunsets also add grandeur and Rev. George W. MacPherson, Yonkers, N.Y. charm to this favored place. In the tones of bright red, yellow purple, overflow "Whilst Cape Breton is small in size, nevertheless, and deeper and which the horizon, are found Heaven's benediction and sweet it presents the greatest variety imaginable. The word night to the peaceful farmers in the valley. which best describes it is 'diversified.' With her many good harbors, lakes, brooks, springs, , mountains and " 'No artist's brush, no pencil can ever describe valleys there is crowded into this small area a greater The majesty of this scenery; It must ever remain uppermost variety of natural wealth and scenery than is found in " And ineffaceable in memory.' any similar area in North America. In comparison with the size of the island, the mountains are lofty, George P. Stanley, Dixfield, Maine, who made a averaging about one thousand feet in height, the visit to Cape Breton last summer returned home highest peak being fourteen hundred feet. delighted with his experience. What he said about this island and its manifold beauties will be of interest "But of all the scenery in Cape Breton none equals to his friends throughout the United States: in simple grandeur the mountains and valley of the many Margaree. As the tourist crosses the rim of the "I have great enjoyment since my return home Margaree range and catches a glimpse of the panora- thinking over the very pleasant week I spent with you ma spread out before him, he is tempted to say that in Cape Breton. I am boosting Cape Breton and its this is a dream, that it belongs to a world other than wonderous beauties and natural glories to all my that in which humanity struggles. When the trees friends and I am looking forward to the time when I burst forth in their full plumage in the springtime, can again visit at least some of the places I saw- while or are coloring into deep blood-red in October, these with you. I have travelled many parts of the world mountains, with their rainbow-like extension, and but have seen nothing quite so beautiful as Cape which surround the North-East Valley of Margaree, Breton affords in natural scenery. The view looking

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1 Main Trunk Motor Highway along Bras d'Or 4. Main Motor Highway over Ben Eoin, along the 2. Main Trunk Motor Highway, Whycocornagh Bras d'Or Lakes 3. Main Trunk Motor Highway and Hotel Margaree 5. One of the many natural fountains along Cape Breton Highways £»• CAPE BRETON o$

down from old 'Smoky' over the Ingonish Bay, and slowly and to stop frequently in order to drink in the harbor, Middle Head and North Bay, with the hand- rich beauty of it all, and so as not to miss any of the some residential estate of Mr. H. C. Corson, of Ohio, delightful scenes. In my opinion, and I am sure I am in the very midst of this truly wonderful picture, was a asserting the view of each of my fellow travellers, one revelation. You will recollect that I compelled you to may have seen all the rest of the Island and thor- park our car so that I might drink to my fill the oughly enjoyed the legion of natural delights every- entrancing beauty of it all and get the full benefit and where afforded, but one's heart is lost absolutely at effect of the magnificent glory of the whole scene. I the sight of the picture looking across from the oppo- have travelled extensively throughout continental site shore to Murray and the North River, St. Ann's. Europe and have not seen anything equal to this You go on to Ingonish, on to Aspy Bay, on to Bay St. particular bit of country. There is absolutely nothing Lawrence, every inch of the trip a clear manifestation on this continent just like it. That is the special of the Creator's lavish hand-out to this favored isle, but message which I have brought home and delivered to you come back to St. Ann's to feed once more on such our people from my visit to your lovely Island. intensified glory as this locality offers. And all 'down "Our trip up the mountain back of North Bay, north' the coast line of Cape Breton is a blue dream. Ingonish, the numerous streams, waterfalls and "The motor road from North Harbor, Aspy Bay, cataracts we met on this hike, and the lakes on top of through the 'Sugar Loaf ravine, to Bay St. Lawrence, this high country, the glorious growth of hard wood in is a revelation. This 'pass' is surely a marvel of this region, the delightful prospect of saddle pony rides Nature; mountains on either side rising to a height of up these steppes, was simply a wonderful experience. some 1,000 to 1,200 feet, with just a ribbon of blue "And the motor outing along Boulardarie Island, 'way up,' and yet you motor through them practically through Murray (St. Ann's), over 'Smoky,' through on the level of the general country highway down on North Bay, and into that seven mile stretch of the lowlands. mountain forest, was truly a pure delight. "The cloud effects in all of this northland add one "Then, I recall our trip to Baddeck, Whycocomagh, more grace to the utter loveliness of the country all along the shore of St. George's Channel, to West Bay, about, and, to cap the pleasure of such a trip, the salt Lime Hill and Marble Mountain, with the almost sea atmosphere instills the vigor of youth into the most countless beautiful beaches and small boat harbors, sluggish heart. along Victoria Trail, through Glendale, Lake Ainslee, "We all had heard people rave about this country; South West Margaree, Margaree Forks, North East now it's our turn to talk to others. Everybody should Margaree, The Big Intervale with its well nigh mar- see northern Cape Breton." vellous Gorge, Margaree Harbor with its sandy beach A lady from Virginia expressed her delight over the and sea surf rolling in from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, hill scenery of Cape Breton, but she was asked by a the beguiling Lake O'Law, Middle River with its local party: "Aren't the hills of Virginia a more pastoral loveliness, and all the rest of it. lovely sight?" "Yes," she said, "we have lovely hills "What surprised me most of all was the excellence in Virginia, you leave the water and go to the hills; of your motor highways and the homelike atmosphere and when you go to the water in Virginia, you leave and surprising accommodation of your smaller hotels. the hills. Here the hills are gloriously reflected in the And, Oh! the genuine Highland hospitality of your waters themselves. I have never seen anything so people, who seem always anxious to go so far out of perfectly lovely. Cape Breton is, indeed, a supremely their way to make the visit of a stranger a thoroughly charming country." memorable and delightful one. Besides, one feels so ATmedical officer of the Canadian Government absolutely at ease in one's overalls in this perfectly Marine service, Ottawa, on one of his official visits to unspoiled summerland. A thrill like that one is surely Cape Breton was given a motor run to the Margaree an ineffaceable memory. I'll be back again soon!" Valley, travelling through considerable scenic attrac- A party of gentlemen from Halifax and Wolfville, tiveness en route. Many times he demanded a stop , and St. John's, Newfoundland, motored and got out to obtain a more intimate view of the to northern Cape Breton during the early days of last surrounding country. "These hills," he said, "are Autumn. "A region of endless surprises," they in glorious. Why, the Catskills, the Adirondacks, the unison declared. One of the party, speaking for the Laurentians, the White Mountains, are in no sense rest, declaimed: comparable to these scenes! Why are you keeping "It is all of it an amazingly lovely country. You this wonderful natural beauty hidden from the world, simply go on from wonder to wonder. You fail to like the sacred raiment under lock and key in Jeru- make time only because you've got to move along salem? You Cape Breton people should get up on the

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1. Falls at Whycocomagh, Sable Mountain 5. North River, St. Ann's; Salmon and trout stream on Main 2. Falls at Middle River (trout stream) Motor Highway 6. Benacadie Cascade on Main Motor Highway 3. "Uisage Ban," Whitewater Falls, Baddeck 7. Falls, Ingonish River 4. Falls and rustic bridge, Grand River 8. Bridal Veil, Gillis' Brook

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£<*- CAPE BRETON +s housetops and shout yourselves hoarse about this won- "Cape Breton Island, in my opinion, is destined to derful natural asset. I have been overseas and have become the summer playground of America. I have seen all of Europe; Europe has nothing quite equal to been all through Florida and the other southern all of this. I must come back and see more of it." States resorts, through California and the Rocky An eminent New Yorker, who spent the best part Mountain country and all over Europe. I have looked of last August and September (1927) touring the upon lovelier scenery today than I have ever before Maritime Provinces, said seen in all my travels."

"Give me those old Cape Breton hills, "Out where there's never a trend or trace Far from the fret and pace that kills, Of a shattered nerve or a pallid face, Among the lakes and the singing rills, Far from the fools in their fevered race, And its glorious virgin sod; Mad with the lure of wealth; Give me the sweep of her saffron skies, Give me those lanes and the lyric nights, Out where the day in its glory dies, Give me those lamps with the golden lights, Back where the coot and the curlew flies, Far from the flare and the blare and the sights, Back in the fields of God. Among those hills and health." Brooklyn, N.Y., 1925. H. McK.

Cape Breton—North America's Unspoiled Summerland INTRODUCTION IF you seek healthful rest and recreation, let this strong spell of this distinctive country. There is little booklet, published by the Cape Breton glorious sport of every kind—golf, tennis, mountain Tourist Association, guide YOU on a summer climbing, motor boating, canoeing, yachting, rod and tour par excellence. gun, and all the rest of it.

If you have weeks, nay months, free from office or Come in June, July, August, or September; come daily business grind, then start out for this new even in October. Temperatures seldom go above Summerland, where every nook and corner is open 87 degrees in the shade, crisp winds from the with gifts of Nature for the finding. Out beyond Atlantic tempering the hot sun's rays. Both summer your busy world lies this vacationland of keen enjoy- and autumn are glorious! A whole country turned ment. Scores of wonder spots call YOU. Pack up into one gigantic, joyous playground. Innis-nan-Og: your old kit bag, forget awhile the atmosphere of "The Island of the Ever Young"—the Land of Heart's cluttered desks and household cares—get away from Desire. This new-found summerland is a world in it all this summer, surrendering yourself to the clean, itself. Be ready with your Kodak.

HORACE Greeley advised "Go West"; Cecil Swordfish. The best physical tonic is to be found in Rhodes urged "Go North"; the new slogan is OUR Great Out-of-Doors. Through Cape Breton's "Come East, Canadians and Americans; come portals you enter a realm of enticing revelation. West, Europeans!" Everybody come to Cape Breton! Nothing else in all the world just like it! This Sport for the The salmon and trout- fly-fishing greatest and best North American Summerland is Gods. seasons are prolonged and afford calling YOU. Climb aboard your train, jump into royal sport during early spring, you motor car, board a steamship, take your power summer and autumn months. Salmon weighing up to or sailing yacht, or just hop over in your aeroplane, and often over fifty pounds and sea trout up to seven or hike it if needs must—heading or sailing east, and a half pounds attract enthusiastic anglers. Deep- north, or west. Come where the days are warm sea fishing—cod, haddock, halibut, mackerel, etc., without excessive heat and the nights pleasantly and offer further varied sport for visitors. Deer are refreshingly cool; when the fishermen are finding their generally protected by law, but there is an open season way to the most famous salmon and trout fly-fishing for Richmond County extending from October 16th to streams of America, or are out in big motor boats 31st; at all seasons their presence adds zest to a visit or auxiliary craft upon the broad Atlantic for the to Cape Breton Island. Sydney and North Sydney exhilarating and altogether thrilling chase of Tuna or provide the halfway house to the prolific big game

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1. An hour's catch and back to MacLean's Hotel for 3. Twenty-six-pound salmon from the breakfast. Trout Brook, Lake Ainslie 4. The Garden Pool, a famed location on the Margaree 2. Lake Ainslie River

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CAPE BRETON -•^j country of Newfoundland, where the moose reigns Here are mighty hills, thousands of miles of sea- lord of the animal creation and the caribou roam in coast, thousands of miles of lake shoreline, a crystal immense herds. A tri-weekly steamship service inland salt-water sea, and sunny bathing beaches operates between these two "far north" outposts of beside the blue Atlantic, wild flowers overrunning the British Dominions. everything. It is a sun-kissed and ocean-washed island kingdom. Here, also, are health-giving waters Most Magnificent Off the Cape Breton coast deep sea of saline and sulphur springs. A perfect paradise foi Sport in the anglers are becoming more numer- rest, recreation and the gaining of robust health. World. ous every season, eager for the thrill Cape Breton Island is in the latitude of the south of that attends the capture of the France; a summerland woven with waterways; lakes, sword fish and the leaping tuna. Commander J. K. L. both fresh and salt; rivers, narrow, tumbling through Ross, of Montreal, was the pioneer of tuna angling, rocky gorges or hurled from cliffside in majestic falls so far as North America is concerned. Tuna are so Nature here is at her best. killed off Santa Catalina Island, off Madeira and in the Seas of Marmora, but Cape Breton holds the palm for The sunsets of Cape Breton form one of its crown- this most exciting sport. It was on August 8th, 1908, ing glories and beauty. Almost every evening sunsets that Commander Ross, with rod and line, hooked his of rare attraction occur. Once seen these may never first fish at St. Ann's Bay, Cape Breton. In that year be forgotten. You will long for a Whistler or a Corot to he succeeded in getting twenty-one out of twenty-eight catch the supreme moment and thus give the picture rises. In the summer of 1909 he hooked thirteen fish to the world from the very gallery of Nature herself. (four in one day), out of sixteen rises, at Mira Bay. Summer Colony Various writers have tried to tell the His last fish he fought for nineteen hours, from eleven of Annual world about Cape Breton. The o'clock Saturday morning until six on Sunday, when Visitors. Rockies are more august with their he cut the line, leaving the fish apparently as fresh as perpetual snows, but they lack the ever. Mr. F. G. Aflalo, the author-sportsman, says human association of Cape Breton's green hills clad that not in history has a fish so long baffled all effort in fir, spruce and maple, with farms nestling close, and to capture it. Subsequently, at St. Ann's Bay, Com- the whole woven into the life of the people. Only a mander Ross, after many hours' exciting chase, suc- Turner could reveal the beauty of its seacoast; the cessfully landed a tuna weighing approximately 700 great wooded headlands jutting out into the sea with pounds. their vivid coloring of rocks set off by the evergreen As for sword fishing Mr. Zane Grey, the well-known maple and balsam. American sporting writer, calls it: "By far the most Favored mortals from the United States and Canada magnificent sport in the world with rod and reel," and have their summer homes dotted over the countryside; this with tuna and tarpon experience behind him. in camps, cottages, log cabins and bungalows, by He claims that tarpon fishing is "child's play compared mount and stream and sea. Oft the commingled to holding a fast swordfish." The English Professor flags—Union Jack, Old Glory and Tri-Color—may be Owen says of it: "It strikes with the accumulated force noted as you pass along the highways. English of fifteen double-headed hammers. Its velocity is noblemen, who for many years have whipped the equal to that of a swivel shot, and is as dangerous in its salmon streams of Norway, are now coming to Cape effect as a heavy artillery projectile." When har- Breton. Along wooded hills, beside green meadows, pooned it retaliates by attacking its assailant. It has in the cool shades of a jade green lake, numbers of been killed up to 600 pounds and more. visitors here live a fascinating out-door life, during the heat of summer and some even through the best part All this thrilling sport the visitor to Cape Breton of the autumn months. Here in this paradise of peaks can have in abundance. and side valleys, of rushing streams, do these abide SHRINE OF ALL THE PEOPLE far away from the hustle of the outside world. Cape Breton Island was the first land in America to HISTORIC be discovered by Europeans, the last to be made a theatre—by Americans—for summer vacations and Earliest recorded landings in Cape Breton: the most picturesquely varied of all the resorts east Leif Ericson, 986; Cabot, at Cape North, 1497; of the Rockies. Cape Breton is the product of the Portuguese adventurers in 1521; probably Cartier First and Greatest Artist and the perspective effects at Lorraine, 1535; Capt. Leigh, at Sydney, 1597; are like nothing that can be caught with camera or Champlain, at Louisburg, 1632; James Stewart, at splashed on canvas. St. Ann's, 1692; French settlement, 1713; German

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1. Rolling surf, Framboise 3. Surf on rugged eastern coast 2. Coastal surf, Louisburg 4. Point Michaud. Pure white sand; finest surf-bathing beach in America

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7. Sangaree, 3. Marion Bridge, on the Mira River 2. Looking out to sea from South Gut, St. Ann's 4. Rainbow in the Evening at St. Ann's 5. The hills of St. Ann's

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Historic Louisbourg 1 Old bomb-proof rooms 6. French naval cannon salvaged from harbor bottom 2. Summer visitors 7. Monument erected in 1895 by New England Society 3. Site of house erected in 1713, destroyed in 1758 of Colonial Wars 4. Monument erected by the Canadian Battlefields Commission 8. General view of old ruins 5. Casemate ruin 16] \ —

&&• CAPE BRETON *telephone, in instruments for musical using these harbors as trading and fislring rendezvous. and voice transmission, and in sea planes. Glen Whilst the French revolution was brewing, the greatest Curtis and Lieut. Selfridge, U.S.A., F. W. Baldwin of fortress ever built in America reared its walls upon our Toronto, and J. E. A. McCurdy of Baddeck, were the shores. For many years privateersmen frequented the skilled assistants of Prof. Bell in his experiments, coasts or sheltered in the coves of the island leaving be- especially in aeronautics. In fact, the first air flight in hind them a wealth of tradition which still clings to the the British Empire was made at Baddeck. country. Today competent guides instruct visitors to Finally it was the scene of Signor Marconi's initial Louishourg respecting the rows of stones that mark, triumph, for at Sydney, from the deckhouse of the more or less distinctly, the lines that were once the Royal Italian warship Carlo Alberto, he first became streets of a great city which took twenty-five years in assured of the success of wireless telegraphy. Sub- the building, at a cost of six millions of dollars (four or sequently, the first trans-Atlantic wireless message five times present money values) . No New World story was despatched from to Clifden, Ireland. can be so romantic as that of a city walled and bastioned, bristling with cannon and sheltering a motley popula- Hoiv to Get From Montreal take the Canadian tion of over twenty thousand souls. Neither was it Here. National or Canadian Pacific Rail- without its imposing buildings, including cathedral, way, four through express trains a convent and hospital. It even had its theatre and day, with the most modern equipment and service. brewery. For half a century this Island was a chal- From New York to Halifax, from New York to Yar- lenge and a menace to the neighboring colonies of New

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/. The Harpooner in his chair 3. The world's record Tuna, wzighing 680 pounds, taken with rod and 2. A typical Sword Fish line after many hours of play by J. K. L. Ross at St. Ann's Bay 4. The Sword Fish Fleet photographed in Bay Harbour

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England; but today we see only the old remains in strife and carnage. Poets have sung about her. mounds and embankments of earth which enclose Tender love episodes, tales of gallantry, jealousies, the entire space. Here still stand old vaulted casemates heartburnings of fair women and brave men, acts of where terrified women and children sought shelter conspicuous heroism, all have had their place in these from storm of shot and shell, and well-nigh shapeless notable productions. A great mass of entertaining earthworks which aforetime were either rampart or legend has grown up about those far-away times. He glacis. who fails to visit Louisbourg and drink of its storied past will have missed something worthwhile. Of the International The ruins of this old French fortress elements of rich legacy bequeathed to modern America, Monuments. and the military burial ground are by far the most important, in their influence upon the now to be preserved and protected course of events, were those transmitted to us by the as a historical site and a national park, under control happenings at Old Louisbourg. Facing the East, it of the Canadian Battlefields Commission. The gazes, as it were, into the past; the whole scene is ever- foundation for a Memorial Tower has been laid on the lastingly fascinating to the visitor; it is as if these site of the old King's Bastion and, close by, are the ruins were keeping their untimed watch over the lapse foundations, too, for a Museum where are to be col- of ages. Louisbourg in fine is the heritage of all Anglo- lected all obtainable records and relics of those stirring Saxon and French peoples; and particularly is it the days. Our American cousins have already forestalled heritage of the whole North American continent. us, in 1895, through the New England Society of "See yonder cliff unbosomed to the west, Colonial Wars, raising granite shaft, in by a polished And mark the blotches on its rugged breast; memory of their heroic dead who fell during the first A century and a half of storm and sleet, siege. The billows maddened, as they writhed and lashed At their own impotence, have never washed years of trustees, of Some ago a board consisting The tell-tale blood-stains from its ancient feet." eleven appointees representative of England, United States and Canada, was appointed and invested with HISTORIC OUTPOSTS power and authority to take possession of these ruins Mira, Catalone, Baleine, Main-a-Dieu, Albert and burial grounds as well as to acquire any further Bridge, Boulardarie, St. Ann's, Cape Dauphin, Man- property in the vicinity which might be deemed o'-War Point, St. Peter's, Port Hood and Port Hood necessary for the purposes of this national park. Fol- Island, and other points throughout Cape Breton, lowing is an extract from a letter written to the trustees recall the old French regime. Each of these places is a by the late President Theodore Roosevelt locality steeped in legend, folklore and historic note. "It is in every way fit and proper that there should be a memorial, for it commemorates an incident that THIS BOOKLET A TRAVELLER'S GUIDE links the history of our continent in a peculiar way Now, let this booklet outline for YOU a thoroughly with the old world." delightful summer itinerary. If you are to travel by "Count not the cost of honor to the dead! rail or steamship, enquire at your nearest transporta- The tribute that a mighty nation pays tion booking offices for the best routing to Cape To those who loved her well in former days car, sail or power Means more than gratitude for glories fled; Breton. If you come by motor by For every noble man she hath bred, yacht, you can readily procure and consult handbooks, Immortalized by art's immortal praise, with maps or charts, by which you will find your way Lives in the bronze and marble that we raise to this Island. For yachtsmen pilots are always To lead our sons as he our fathers led." available here, both for Cape Breton, Newfoundland Thus will the historic links between the old and new and Labrador waters. But come direct to the Sydneys, worlds be forever preserved. A national park, nay an where you will feel altogether at home; and make this international park, will tend to keep in the memory your starting point for a complete tour of this en- those olden days having to do with Canadian, British, chanting Isle, where weeks of the most glorious outing, French and New England colonial history. rest and recreation lie ahead of you. Then, verily In the naval or military cemeteries lie buried, side and in truth, will you go back to the humdrum of by side, without monument, tablet, or mark of any every day existence a brand new being. The tang of kind, friend and foe alike—Briton, Frank, New Eng- the salt air, the glorious sunshine, the cool and re- lander, and the native Mic-Mac. freshing nights, will give you that new vim which Few, if any, spots in America can boast of more needs must fit man, woman or child to face the more historical associations than Louisbourg. Novelists strenuous duties of life. You will go back home su- have woven intensely entertaining and humanizing premely fit and anxious only for another opportunity stories, filled with romance, around these old scenes of to enjoy the beauty and glories of Cape Breton.

[ 19] .

1. Landing fish, River Bourgeoise, on Main Motor Highway 5. Gypsum Loading Pier at Ingonish 2. Coal Bank, half million tons, Glace Bay 6. Dolomite Quarries, George's River, on C.N.R. and Main Motor Highway 3. Gypsum Quarry, Ingonish 7 Gypsum Quarries, Mabou, on Main Motor Highway 4. Turnout at assembly yard, Dominion No. IB coal mine. Note rear end of a train of loaded cars going to the shaft, and also a locomotive coupled to a train of empties on the way to the working face, Glace Bav 20 — so- CAPE BRETON **$

SIDE TRIPS "Lightly I step into her frail birch bed, Kneeling me gently I turn her head A niong the On the way to or from Louisbourg a Out to the open; the lake is blue; My heart is glad and the skies are too." Breakers your stop off at the Mira River will pro- First Day. vide variety to a glorious day' out- AN UNDERGROUND CITY ing. The Mira is a stream some If you want it, now for a real hair-raising thrill! thirty miles in length, with its outlet into a great bay of On to Glace Bay, New Waterford, or North Sydney flashing blue water—with low lying hills all around of a few seconds extending into the . Above the sandy and , where a drop takes of the largest coal mining beaches are bungalows and cozy summer huts. A you down into one shafts in the world. there you are a thousand tidal current of ten knots ebbs and flows through the Down a quarter mouth of the narrow entrance and merrily swings feet below terra firma and about two and miles out under and some fourteen hundred feet along the devious course of the stream until it reaches beneath the ocean's This will furnish you an far inland. Who likes the river? A sunny day, water bed. experience that will never become effaced from your like glass, sky blue as blue, an occasional daring fish memory. The drop into the bowels of the earth is so flip-flopping, and over all the smiling sun. Seldom a nearly instantaneous, the effect upon the senses is so river just like this river. It is without a parallel marked, that you will imagine for a moment that you among all the streams of America. It is in one sense have suddenly and without notice been flung into not a river at all so much as it is a moving lake. For the nethermost regions of total oblivion. And it is a although only thirty miles in length it is navigable from wild ride through this subterranean world; down the sea to its source above Victoria Bridge, at the grade, mile after mile; cold, air surges up all mouth of Lewis Bay, and its width would suggest a damp river not thirty but three hundred miles. around you. You're down! You seem to land on a cushion of air. Here let another visitor offer you his

An Interlude At the Sydneys or Glace Bay enjoy suggestion : "Put something over the tiny lantern you that easy chair hour when every carry and immediately you get the impression that you are hung in the cellar of Hell, absolute darkness, man feels he is entitled to life's best. Spend the week end here. There are trips a plenty through radiantly staccato drip of water (not sea water), squeak and glorious country, requiring only part of a day each. scurry of a rat, and the mysterious sound that you Out of no other city or town in Canada or the United afterwards identify as your own breathing; get the States are there more, or as many, delightful drives as experience of setting off a 'blast' and imagine for the from the Sydneys—Sydney and North Sydney. There minutest fraction of a second that the whole universe are, too, the Mira, Glace Bay, Lingan, South Bar, has been blown to atoms. Meet some of the miners and Indian (North Sydney) sand beaches at the 'face'; unique in personality and mental out- living with their delightful surf or smooth-water dips in look. These miners are hard working, close of thinking; the briny ocean, providing all the exhilaration and with few pleasures, and have a canny way recreation that mortal man could wish. a type born of environment and tradition; not easily intimate, but, like their native coal, when tortured A canoe trip up the thirty mile stretch of the Mira by the flame of sympathy and understanding, breaking River is well worthwhile, thence by short portages, into warmth. They are fiercely loyal to each other through a chain of lakes or by connecting streams, to and their island—implacable enemies but wonderful Gabarouse or Framboise and out onto the heaving friends. It's all amazing; plan not to miss it." Atlantic, and back again. Whilst at Gabarouse gather "Thrill of the coal seam; some souvenirs from the many thousand tons of Buried below! pebbles of volcanic origin, better by far than the com- Tropical forests, mercial flint marbles, which may be sorted out at Aeons ago!" Lever Beach and the other sandy shores around the The Sister City. The town of North Sydney, sister Gabarouse Bay locality. city of Sydney, and on another arm Or, paddle your own canoe up the nine miles of the of the same harbor, is the locus of one of the most Sydney River, by moonlight, into the Forks Lake important cable stations in the world. The equip- (freshwater), thence over a three mile portage, fol- ment is thoroughly modern in every particular. lowing the course of a shallow brook, until you again Lloyd's Cove, some three or four miles nearer the launch your frail bark on the blue waters of the Bras entrance to the harbor, is the point where the second d'Or Lake. The Indians named this portage "Wu trans-Atlantic cable landing was made and which still Wokun," or the short cut. remains the western contact of this service.

[21] <- CAPE BRETON -«e

/. Iona, on the Bras d'Or Lakes 4. Looking up Big Bras Gut from Atlantic entrance 2. Eskasoni Islands, on Bras d'Or Lakes 5. Iona and Grand Narrows Bridge, Canadian National 3. Iona, Bras d'Or Lakes, on Canadian National Railways, Railwavs Iona, on the Bras d'Or Lakes and Main Motor Highway

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It was at Lloyd's Cove that Admiral Walker on the "I think that I shall never see A poem lovely as a tree." 4th of September, 1711, anchored with a fleet of forty- two sail of British war craft. Here he had a large cross In the matter of scenery—it is beautiful and grand; erected on the shore, claiming the whole of Cape Breton of enjoyable and health-giving climate, and in all of for the English. A carpenter and two of his crew those conditions appealing to the sportsman with rod landed and were killed and scalped by the Indians. and gun, paddle or sail, and especially to the motorist, North Sydney was, too, the air base of the Allies Nature has been extremely generous with its gifts to during the Great War. At Kelly's Beach may still the Island of Cape Breton. be seen the extensive building equipment of that sea service. During the four years of the war the scouring Sun Suffused Now you start out for the Little of the western Atlantic for German submersibles was Sea. Bras d'Or through which you pass conducted from this vantage point. As many as to a unique sight—an inland, land- one hundred and twenty-four large steamships, as well locked sea, flowing in from and out to Mother as troopships, sailed from Sydney Harbor in one day, Ocean through a narrow thirty mile passageway. It scheduled for departure in separate divisions between has no duplicate the wide world over. sunrise and sunset, all accompanied by naval escort. "Strange that a thing so wild, so free, North Sydney is today the pivotal point of the As we conceive the tossing sea to be, Should thus be landlocked and imprisoned." Canadian Atlantic fisheries and may yet become the most important fishing port on the whole of the You can ride along the foreshore of Boulardarie eastern seaboard. It is also the Canadian terminal Island for full twenty-five miles; a pastoral bit of of the Newfoundland railway and steamship service, countryside on the one hand, and on the other steep between the Old Colony and the continent. It will fir-clad hills all no more than a stone's throw from eventually become the port of call for all trans- your car; while in between you have the swift current Atlantic passenger steamships bound up the St. Law- running through the Big Bras d'Or Gut. This con- rence or to southern coastal points. This will mean tinues until you reach Ross's Ferry where, by the (as has been proven by actual experiment) more than most modern service, you are transferred to the a full day's saving in the ocean trip between Europe farther shore. Now it's on to "Baddeck and That and America; and the proportionately quicker hand- Sort of Thing," a place made famous by the late ling of mails and express freight coming or going from Charles Dudley Warner, where you will quite natur- Europe to the United States or Canada. ally tarry awhile. Here is the keynote of the beauti- SCENIC ful Bras d'Or Lakes. Its yachting course is of con- tinent wide reputation and so, also, is the fame of the The Elite of all Now, we take you on the tour elite. hospitality of the Baddeck Yacht Squadron. Bad- Summer Tours. You can travel by water—ocean or deck has its golf course, too. lake; by rail; by motor bus; or in The Greek, Pan, when the world became too bar- your own limousine. The motor trails are all definite- barous or too violent for his music, retired to the ly and unmistakably blazed, so that you are able to peace and beauty of the mountain solitudes. Upon find your way about with the utmost ease. By water some wooded headland behind these lovely lakes fancy —partly harbor, partly ocean, partly far inland bay. might readily picture a home to Pan's liking. Even By land—over well-graded, permanent highways, or, today with all its travel and unrest one can scarcely if you would rather, partly by rail. And all through forbear the desire to settle down amid such glorious the finest natural scenery you ever laid eyes upon. scenes. Such was the effect upon the late Dr. A. The surface of the Island is broken in several places Graham Bell, when first his gaze fell upon "Beinn by ranges of hills of moderate elevation-—up to 1,500 Bhreagh." Later, he returned to it and, like the feet—well wooded, and containing numerous pictur- Sultan of Morocco who came into the valley of Rabor, esque glens and gorges. To the artist and romancer, "he would go no further." It thus that Prof. as well as to the vacationist and sportsman, wonderful was Bell became a permanent resident of Baddeck and of possibilities are offered. Cape Breton will not lull or Cape Breton, and there, on the top of "Beautiful enervate or caress the traveller, but he who has shaken Mountain," lie his mortal remains in a tomb carved hands with its solitudes has experienced that which all out of the solid rock, the mecca of all American visitors. the show places on earth can never obliterate. Here are rich intervals and dense forests, containing the You'll be spellbound by the scenery of the Bras finest fir trees in the world, equal to the fine fir timber d'Or Lake district. It will be hard for you to tear cut from the forests that crowned the lofty ranges of yourself away from Baddeck. The memory of it will the Lebanon Mountain. haunt you until you visit it again and yet again.

23 ] &*- CAPE BRETON «•?

/. Margaree Harbor, at the mouth of the famous salmon stream 4. Doyle's Bridge, Margaree 2. Pastoral and mountain country back of Port Hood 5. Lake Ainslie 3. Margaree Vale, pastoral and river scene 6. Cheticamp, Little River, salmon fly-fishing stream

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The Meeting of The Bras d'Or is a tidal water, but salt sea— the "Arm of Gold"—whilst the scene carries the Waters. the rise and fall is not at any time the vision over and beyond a lovely pastoral bit of more than nine inches, whilst that country until in the distance you note the City of of the ocean just outside is from four to six feet. The Sydney and the belching chimneys of its mammoth lakes are nearly seventy miles long and from ten to steel industry and the coal mining district of New twenty wide and the outgoing tide is met by the Waterford, Dominion and Glace Bay. Poets have incoming current, so that the level of the lakes varies sung of the many beauties of the "Slios a' Brochen." but slightly during the twenty-four hours; the narrow At the end of the trail is Big Harbor and from there entrance also contributes to resist the flow of water you either go on to Baddeck, or cross Ross's Ferry out and in. At the ocean entrance, these swiftly and return to the Sydneys. flowing waters of the "Golden Arm" leap to kiss the "A mountain brook, a waterfall, salt spray of the Atlantic, while their gleaming myriads That tumbles down with noisy brawl, These are the scenes the heart enthrall; of bubbles, rainbow like in the sun, make the breath On charming Slios a' Brochen." catch in the throat from the very wonder of it all. This "meeting of the waters" is picturesque in the Where the Bras Another trail to Baddeck is taken extreme, for, at the hour of tidal change, a five mile d'Or Divides. by turning to the left at Leitches outgoing current meets a five mile incoming flow and Creek and then "right" over Bar- just before flood tide the pace is quickened to a ten rachois Mountain, following on until the Bras d'Or knot clip. It's a marvel! Come and see it. Lake shore is reached, thence on to Grand Narrows. This is full expanse of Optional Motor There are four particularly attract- a delightful drive, always the the beautiful will wish Drives. ive drives from the Sydneys to the Bras d'Or in view. Here you Bras d'Or Lake country. You to tarry for a bit, before proceeding across the ferry to Iona and to the end of the trail. should take them all, one after the other. Instead of turning to the left on Boulardarie Island, in going to Grand Narrows, formerly known as Barra Strait, Baddeck, just keep right along, cross the Big Bras is the dividing section between the Great and the d'Or Ferry, climb up, up, over Kelly's Mountain, Little Bras d'Or. The Strait is spanned by a mile cross the barren where the blueberries and raspberries long bridge constructed for the Canadian National grow in abundance and go on to Baddeck by this Railways system. On one side of the bridge is Iona, route. Here and generally through out the Island are on the other the village of Grand Narrows. The out- ever within hand-reach of your car the lucious straw- look over the broad reaches of the companion lakes is berry, raspberry, brambleberry, blueberry, cranberry simply glorious from either angle. Yonder are Mac- and sometimes the bakeapple, and all of the other Kinnon's Harbor, Ottawa Brook, the West and East wild fruit delights that nature has to offer, and much Bays, St. George's and St. Andrew's Channels and good cream to be had from farms nearby the wayside. Baddeck Bay. Grand Narrows is a genuinely de- "Let's go, lassie, to the braes o' Balquither lightful spot for a summer outing. Iona was first Where the blueberries grow 'man the bonnie Highland known as Saundrie; it was given its present name Heather, because of the resemblance of the locality to its name- Where the deer and the rae lightly bounding together, sake in Scotland. Sport the long summer day on the braes o' Balquither." The early settlement of this section of the Island Many visitors claim the most beautiful motor drive was from Scotland, mainly from Barra and the in Cape Breton to be the Slios a' Brochen highway. Hebrides; and to most people the district is still a syn- This provides yet one more connecting link between onym for Highland Scotch environment arid associa- the Sydneys and Baddeck. Crossing by the Big Bras tion. The first immigrants came over in 1803. These d'Or Ferry to New Campbellton, you turn "left" and were the pioneer settlers along the shores of the Bras the drive winds delightfully along the shoreline of the d'Or Lakes, who are mostly Scotch Catholics. A Bras d'Or. This is a road rich in storied lore. Going number of the "originals" fought under Wolfe at westward it is a continuous but gradual up-grade, Louishourg and at Quebec; and subsequent to their with evergreen clothed mountain on the right and the return to England, came back here for permanent bright, sparkling waters of the Bras d'Or beneath you abode, but they never forgot "an gleann 'san robh iad on the left. Along the way are many lovely glades og," and it was with many a sigh of affection that and here and anon are mountain brooks and an they desired to once more see their native land. occasional waterfall tumbling down with noisy "From the lone sheiling of the misty island, brawl. At the topmost point of the rising country a Mountains divide us and a waste of seas, view is unfolded that is attractive in the extreme. To Yet still the blood is strong, the heart is Highland, the westward is the full expanse of the famed inland And we, in dreams, behold the Hebrides."

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Ing The Beautv

Georg On Main Motor Highway at

_'(, $+- CAPE BRETON w

ish of Canada

Photographs Courtesy II. 0. Dodge Sydney, N.S. %iver ; nadian National Railways

!7] &^- CAPE BRETON -^tf

/. Main Motor Highway, Lake o'Law 2. North River, St. Ann's; likened to Palisades of the Hudson

28 —

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The church at the "Narrows" is called after St. "We pushed on until we came to the seaward end Barra and that at Iona, St. Columba. The old and of the lakes and saw in the late afternoon sunlight the present family names bespeak their Highland origin. majestic north coast of Cape Breton stretching away There are the Camerons, Campbells, Frasers, Gillis', towards 'Smoky' and Cape North. Macdonalds, Macdougalls, MacGillivrays, Mac- "We had a delightful sail with Sydney friends down Kenzies, MacKinnons, Maclntyres, Maclnnes, the harbor in the afternoon and out towards Lignan MacLennans, MacLeods, MacLeans, MacMullins, Bay, where we fell in with a fleet of sword fishermen MacNeils, with the MacNeils predominating. These in hot pursuit of their prey and saw the chase and old timers were typical sons of the Highlands, men of capture of a swordfish which we later learned weighed stalwart physique and of ruddy complexion. They 265 pounds." were generally referred to as "Au Duine Ban," the fair haired. ECLIPSES HUDSON PALISADES After crossing over Kelly's Mountain a right turn The Sea Trip. You may also take the water route carries you northward to an even more glorious coun- by a tri-weekly service out from the try still. Something akin to the Rockies, the Swiss, harbor of the Sydneys round into the Gut of the Big Italian and Austrian Alps, not, of course, on so stu- Bras d'Or, shout an hour, thence through the passage pendous a scale—nor do they wear on the sides of of the Big Gut, with a really marvellous panorama all their heads snowy white caps all the year round the way through into the big lake. It's a very enjoy- but with a charm infinitely more appealing than that able cruise and provides a truly splendid outing. of those famous mountain regions and resorts. St. Ann's Bay, and its inner landlocked harbor, Albert T. Gould, Counsellor at Law, Boston, Mass.: present a perfectly lovely natural canvas.

"If any one who has never passed through the lock, "Mild is the morning beam, or 'haulover isthmus' as it is called on the chart, at Gently the rivers stream, Happy the valleys seem." St. Peter's, and sailed through the lovely Bras d'Or Lakes, let him firmly resolve on the next available North River and its surroundings have been likened holiday to devote at least a week to a trip to Cape by a distinguished United States visitor, to the Palisades of the Hudson River, only with its effects Breton and a sail on the comfortable steamer Bras d'Or — through these wonderful salt water lakes which extend upon a much more elaborate pattern "Where flaming from one end of the eastern side of the island to the colors speed the sun, where westering shadows glow." other. The play of sunlight over sea and fields delights the eye and the strong sea air pours vigor into the lungs. "I will not spoil the prospect by any attempt to Remains of early Spanish, British and French military describe the beauty of these broad lakes, from which occupation and fortifications are of interest. Old the shore rises from 400 to 600 feet in hills, some of Scottish customs, and the Gaelic language, in all its graceful slopes of green, while others which begin with purity, give added charm to this community ; some of rise abruptly and overlook the water below with a whose older residents speak nothing but the mother dignity which belongs only to Nature in her grander tongue of Auld Scotia. moods. No wonder the French called this land He Within the misty corrie and golden glens of these Royale, and were willing to fight for it even after Scotch settlements of Cape Breton Island a sheiling had been snatched from them by the English. song at twilight still keeps in bright remembrance the "On a perfect summer day, with a gentle breeze old home associations. Waulking frolics, the women's blowing soft and warm, we traversed the centre of task of thickening homespun, is a feature of Hallow- this earthly Paradise. One could not look upon such mas evening. In contrast to English, a new freshness a scene as lay before us and cherish any feeling but is noted in any Gaelic greeting. that of contentment and repose. The world seemed Visit the grave of Angus MacAskill, the Cape as far away as the fleecy clouds overhead. In the Breton giant, who toured the world with Tom Thumb. ordering of our existence it probably is wisely ordained This man stood within three inches of eight feet in that we should not be cast too long under the spell of height, weighed three hundred and fifty pounds, and such idyllic surroundings; otherwise we should all soon on one occasion is said to have carried on his back an be as the Lotus Eaters, though theirs was not an anchor weighing over a ton. His big boots, waistcoat unenviable lot after all. Nothing can blot out the and other habiliments, still retained at the old home- memory of those hours of innocent joy under the stead, have been donned by many a visitor to St. summer sky of Cape Breton. Ann's.

[29 ^- CAPE BRETON *$

1. Ingonish Harbor 4. Interlacing Mountains, Ingonish 2. Cape "Smoky," and entrance to South Bay, ingonish 5. "Smoky" Mountain and Beach, Ingonish 3. North Shore, Cape "Smoky" in distance 6. Coastal Scene, Ingonish

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Old Quarrels, London's first poet, must have had a A party of visitors from Long Island, U.S.A., who warm-hearted Celtic race in mind when he wT rote made a complete tour of the Island last season, parked their car on the top of "Smoky" and alighted so as to "There progress is extreme and bold, They're very hot or very cold." get the full range of the expansive view that offers from this eminence. One of the gentlemen turning GEM OF NATURE'S HANDICRAFT around noticed his wife in tears. "Why, Gertrude, what's the trouble?" he inquired. With a catch in globe trotters have declared Ingonish to be Many her throat, and speaking just above a whisper, she the gem of Nature's handicraft. You'll surely ex- responded: "It's too, too beautiful!" claim: "My heart shall burst within my breast," upon your first vision of Ingonish. You motor up, up, and When you're down on the other side of "Smoky" still up, over the crest of Cape Enfume (Smoky), pitch your tent beside some brawling stream—Clyburn until you are nearly 1,200 feet above sea level. Brook, Ingonish River, or one or another streamlet- angle for and catch your own sea trout. Sit, dream, Here is massiveness and grandeur. Here a bold walk, explore, and learn the secrets locked in those headland towers abruptly a thousand feet over the mountains and far spaces. You'll never, never, sea, and half way up is split by a fleecy cloud bank, never, forget Ingonish! which sets a smoky haze dancing over its green skirts dropping down sheer to the water's edge, thus giving NATURE'S PANORAMIC MASTERPIECE its name to the headland. From the top of this height, or steaming around the The tip-top of the Island is the "Sugar Loaf," Cape into the bay, there unrolls a scene over which Mount Cabot, the Rhiga of the America east! This artists might enthuse. A picture worth viewing at is the king-pin piece of the entire Cape Breton setting! any time, but under the effect of a steamship's electric The "Sugar Loaf" is claimed to have been the point searchlight it is a wonderful sight! Imagine a lake a of land first sighted by Cabot in 1497. Cape North, full mile wide and extending ahead for several miles the headland, is 1,000 feet and the "Loaf" 1,200 feet more, at one end a seemingly endless sand beach, above the sea. backed or ribboned on its inside line with comparative- From the top of the "Sugar Loaf" one can look far ly small oval-shaped stones (washed up by the over land and ocean. Northward there is the quiet, Atlantic storms) of perfectly symmetrical proportions, restful district and fishing village of the Bay St. over which the surf, pulling the water off the seawall Lawrence, a hill and sea encircled vale. To the north- steps, is breaking seven feet high ; a veritable homily eastward, on a clear day, may be noticed the outline of the restless sea. At the other end, and surrounding of Cape Ray, the southwestern chin of Newfoundland. all but the narrow entrance, one looks up at towering Eastward is the wide expanse of the restless blue cliffs, an enfolding series of mountains rising higher ocean, stretching away interminably. Southward and higher until an altitude of 1,498 feet is reached looms up the whole extent of that entrancing coastline in Franey's Chimney, one of the highest peaks in of Cape Breton itself. Southwestward the vision eastern America. On a calm night the waves roll in carries the eye over the full stretch of that high plateau upon the beach with that strange phosphorescent which divides the northern portion of the Island in brightness so typical of the open sea. twain. Westward, across the Gulf of St. Lawrence The cloud effects in this northern wild of Cape and , sits that "Garden of the Breton are a perfect complement to the beauties of Gulf"-—. In the northwest land and ocean. For artists this aerial architecture, distance are the low-lying Magdalen Islands. While that melts and vanishes even as one gazes all about, in between Cape North and Cape Ray is St. Paul's constitutes one of the greatest charms of the whole Island, one of the graveyards of the Atlantic, picture. where

On the highest point of "Smoky" is an observation "All the sea is haunted with human lips, tower, forty feet above the ground level, from the Ashen and sere and gray; You can hear the sails of the sunken ships upper platform of which may be quite clearly discerned Stir and shiver and sway." the southern and western coastlines of Newfoundland, the east coast of the , as well as And immediately at the foot of Mount Cabot are Prince Edward Island and . There the scintillating sands and rolling surf of Aspy Beach, are two white cliffs to the southwest of the headland while just beyond are the bejewelled lakes known as which Pichon, in his history (1760), says were even North, Middle and South Harbours, each girthed by then known as the "Veils of Cape Enfume." highland or meadow.

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/. Barrachois River (trout), looking north from St. Ann's 4. Bav St. Lawrence 2. Cape North. The tip-top of Cape Breton 5. Hills of North Cape Breton 3. Cape North Intervale and its hills 6. Inside of Ingonish Harbor

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Test Your Wind Climb up the steep sides of the colors change and rechange in ceaseless rapidity. Two and Your Stamina. "Loaf," if you have the wind and false dawns appear in the northwest horizon followed the stamina, with the "Song of the by many marvels of atmospheric change. Then Old Hills" in your heart: Sol makes his appearance and the whole picture is "I want my hills! —the trail transformed. That scorns the hollow— Up, up the rugged shale A Rare Morning. Then, the morning—such a morn- Where few will follow." ing as one can only realize in the Standing on the apex of the "Sugar Loaf," this mountains. Start the descent. You're down once everlasting memorial to one of the earliest and most more at the footstool of the "Loaf." Get out onto daring voyagers who ever caught the "horizon fever," the sandy beach, just beneath where you have spent and not the sweep of the valley, nor the sheen of the the night. When you have taken a plunge in the cool lakes, will claim the eye, but the all surrounding bracing surf, have followed the ocean rack with the splendor of the sea and the eternal hills as well. salt-scud flying against your tanned faces, the cries of the sea birds the of the surf The path that leads up is steep and difficult but the blending with boom and, battered with spray, and your cheeks top is just what Rhodes styled the Matopo Hills in and wet Rhodesia: "World's View." The best time to make the the color of the old fashioned paeony, you climb out on the welcoming sand you will surely realize that ascent is in the evening. Climbing up under the moon- — never for removal of light rays is enchanting. The light beats pleasantly was a more complete remedy business perplexities, or woman's household against the cliffs, enabling detours to be made around man's the rocks and angles and to locate paths and ravines. worries, and that this life in Cape Breton's Great Out-of-Doors truly means regained vigor after the Unexplainable About 1,000 feet up is a ledge which hard grind of office or home life for months on end. Marvel of Nature seems to have considerately Now, get out you're frying pan. Coffee and bacon, Nature. provided for the weary mountaineer done to a turn on the spot—your own cooking! Can and to allow of an opportunity for you beat it? This is the life and this the holiday par surveying the all wondrous scenes about. Many excellence. climbers while resting on this ledge have witnessed "God, keep some silent places for us still, and experienced one of those inexplainable marvels of Apart from those where man forever goes, Nature. Suddenly, a brilliant orb of blue light is Some altars lit by sunset on the hill, noticed one hundred feet below. For about one Or alcoves in the canyon wall, where glows minute it remains stationary and then as suddenly The crystal drop of moisture on the fern." vanishes. Naught is found but a fissure in the rocks, which will be warm after having been subjected to A CHANCE OF ATTRACTION the hot rays of a full day's sun; there is also the Returning by the road whence you had gone "down pungent odour of copper which appears to come from North," a stop off for a couple of hours at Neil's the nearby ledges. Visitors of a scientific turn of Harbor adds a note of interest to your trip. This is a mind, who have scaled the "Sugar Loaf," attribute typical Cape Breton fishing village or station. Meet- this phenomenon to a sudden outburst akin to the St. ing these people, hardy toilers of the sea, will well Elmo fire of the tropics. For the climb up the Mount repay one for this stopover. Make the visit during choose a clear hot August day, and the chances are the afternoon, when the fishing boats are coming in that you will see this for yourself. from the day's hand-lining along the inshore fishing If you are so inclined remain up on the height for grounds. It will be an experience well worthwhile to the night. Seek a fragrant bed of spruce and sleep take a day off and go out cod-lining with one of these as you have not done for many a long day; a bed of honest fisher lads. spruce is Nature's very own mattress, and not lightly to be given up. But before slumber overtakes you // You Go By Neil's Harbor is just a dent in the witness the moonrise. Every star in the world of Steamer. shoreline. The sea rolls into a cove, space will seem to be crowded into your particular climbs up the cliffs, but its force is expanse of sky, each glowing like a tiny lantern. broken upon a government breakwater built as a protection for the boats of the fishermen. The con- Two False Part of the glory of the scene is ditions are none too safe for a landing, but through Daivns. missed unless the "starlit dawn" on skillful seamanship a good weather berth is negotiated Mount Cabot is also witnessed be- inside the pier. The cove is not more than 150 yards fore descent is made. For about two hours lights and wide and not more than half that distance from

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Photographs ( 'ourtesy II'. A'. Macaskill, Halifax, Canada

/. Sheep ranching, Cape Breton 4. Valley and mountain scene, Whycocomagh 2. Bras d'Or Lakes at New Campbellton 5. Pastoral scene, Lake Ainslie 3. Farming scene, Lake Ainslie 6. Pastoral scene, Skye Alountain, Whycocomagh

34 £«*- CAPE BRETON -**3 entrance to shore. Tall, jagged rocks standing at close SPORT intervals receive the onslaught of the merciless, on- rushing sea. Such a place in tempestuous weather The Angler's "Right about face" and you are is a bad corner to get into, but it provides a flair of Paradise. away for Middle River, the Lakes risk to this "down north" outing that only those who o' Law and Lake Ainslie, all on the make the journey by the water route can fully enjoy. way to the far-famed Margaree. The drive through this outer chamber gives a sharp appetite for what Along the coastline of the Island, all around its four is just beyond. Beauty and peace appear to have shores, are dotted just such villages of Scotch fisher- made this place their dominion. men, marked usually by a church tower and vexed with wind and fog, with the ever-wheeling gulls away The Lakes o' Law are an almost uncanny reproduc- in the foreground. In general they are all alike pos- tion of wonderful Killarney, in Ireland, and by some sessing but the one street of sombre, scattered houses, are likened to Loch Lomond, in Auld Scotia. These a frowning mountain behind them and the grim ocean lakes, and Lake Ainslie, are both fair and sonsie before. scenes, their beauty sufficient to stir the most phlegma- tic human to a realization of what is meant by natural A visit to some of these rugged coastal points follow- scenery. ing a stiff gale from seaward will afford you something "Nor frown was seen through sky or sea." well worth looking at. With the gradual shoaling, the seas pile up with walls of water, "the heavens Behind the Lakes o' Law rise high hills, the waters become blinded with the smoking combers and after appearing for all the world like giant mirrors framed the breath of the storm lashes the night with spin- in their forests of evergreen. One can stay for hours drift." and simply drink in the beauty of the ever-changing hues. It is a restful resort, so tranquil is it and so The Naples of Returning to your base at Baddeck secluded from the outside world. strike off America. you next at a tangent. A A glimpse of the fertile fields of Cape Breton is con- twenty-five mile motor drive lands stantly presented to you in the drive from Baddeck you in Whycocomagh. to Nyanza, Middle River, Lakes o' Law and Lake "Some sing of Rome and some of Florence, Ainslie, the whole district being embowered in a wealth I will sound the praises of Inverness." of verdure. Indeed, it is just as if Aphrodite had come To strangers the name Whycocomagh puzzles. It is out of the foam of the sea to the shores of this lakeland, the Mic-Mac Indian for "head of the waters," for and, as was said of her on her first visit to Cyprus, Whycocomagh Bay is the finale of one of the bewitch- had made "the herbage quiver into flame" wherever ing steamship sails from the Sydneys through the her feet had touched it. Here you sense the Golden Bras d'Or Lakes. Dudley Warner styled this place Vine, symbol of fertility. the "Naples of America." It is one of the cosiest Trout Brook, Lake Ainslie, is without exception the places on God's green earth ; snugly nested away under finest trout fishing stream in North America. Salt Mountain and coyly embraced on the other side by the companion range of hills belonging the to GOD'S VERY VALLEY mountain of Skye, it is one of the most delightful OWN retreats that Nature could possibly have provided. The Margaree! Who has not heard of this fisher- This surely is a bonnie spot, detached from the outside men's and vacationists' paradise—of its wonderful world yet all the while in closest touch with everyday salmon pools? This well known locality is reached mundane things. One may, also, enjoy, as well as through three portals. Without the slightest warning benefit from, the waters of both its sulphur and saline a vision of great natural attraction is all in a second springs, rich in vegetable and mineral properties. spread out before the incoming traveller. In just the twinkling of an eye you emerge from a leafy winding In the early morning the level mists, motionless and vestibule balanced as 'twere on the edge of a hill grey beneath the rose tint of the moorlands, veil the and you are face to face with a landscape which might lower woods, the sleeping village and the long fields have enthused a Landseer; up one hill and down by the lake shore, among those Whycocomagh fells. another—so close are these outer and inner sanctuaries. Whycocomagh might well have been named Dar-es- Looking in the direction from which you gained Salaam, the "Haven of Peace." back entrance no sign of portal may be discerned, the trail "Her groves of green fir and maple let foreign lands reckon having been entirely lost to view. The situation at When bright beaming summers exalt the perfume; For dearer to me yon glen o' green bracken, the moment of the first view of this Margaree Vale is Wi' the burn stealing under the long yellow broom." so unexpected that the visitor is entranced with the

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iaHHMI

._„ V

JW.VH

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Photographs Courtesy Edson Graham, Wolfville, N.S.

7. Mabou River 3. The Margaree River , finest salmon fly-fishing

2. Lake o'Law, replica of Killarney , Ireland slream in the world

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whole scene. There are pine clad hills and stately threw his first fly upon the rushing waters of this elms in meadows and fields. At sunset, the vale is a stream more than sixty years ago is still a constant veritable bowl of twilight and appears as if brimmed enthusiast. Today it is a common sight to meet with dying fires; one could swear that starry nights motorists from every State in the American Union, were born in the Margaree. While valley and settle- and from all sections of Canada, going to and from ment are fading into night the golden colors are still this fisherman's paradise. playing far up on the mountain tops, suggesting The Margaree is a noble stream, rising in the hills the lines: over 1,100 feet in height—some sixty miles from the "There are shadows in the valleys harbor of the same name, which opens out into the But there's sunlight on the hills." Gulf of St. Lawrence. Its waters are free to all The great swelling hills of the lower country have anglers. Here are no riparian rights; that is, no sec- not the same kind of beauty as the upland or coastal tion of the stream may be leased by landholders to mountains and cliffs, but to some the moorlands of any club or individual fisherman. On the other hand Margaree surpass anything in the north for sheer there is a time-honored custom that farmers who cul- beauty. The discerning eye and interpreting mind tivate their lands at the river's course may hire their make the choice for each enthusiast. pools daily to the earliest patron seeking such a privilege. An Outdoor Margaree last summer harbored a Art Studio. party of distinguished visitors A Sportsman's Jack Sutherland, of New York, and fifteen young ladies and gentlemen Tale. Fort Lauderdale, Florida, tells a from different parts of the United States, pupils of most entertaining story of fishing Mr. Frank Vincent DuMond, director and teacher of on the Margaree: the Art Students' League, New York. The young "During a period of several hours," said Mr. Suther- painters, with their master, spent six weeks in the land, "I had cast and recast over a big salmon that Margaree and, during that period, finished two lay behind the logs at the foot of the run (Hut Pool), hundred canvases. They all expressed the opinion but the most tempting of dry-flies Silver Doctor, that the Margaree is one of the most charming spots — Brown Hackle, Black Knat, Queen of the Water, in which the painter can pursue his task—a spot with Baden Powell and others failed to induce a strike. its hills and fens, its mountains and leas, vistas of — which offered a variety of views which it was a pure "It was 5.30 p.m., when, as a last resort, I selected delight to transfer to canvas. This is what they a Yellow Sally and hitched it to the leader, intending actually said to make a few final tries before retreating, defeated, to the hotel for supper. "If all of Cape Breton is as charming as this section, it is little wonder the Island is becoming so widely "Up stream flew the pretty feathers, the leader was known as one of the beauty spots of North America. looped in midair, and Miss Sally settled on the water. We are fascinated with the land, and deeply apprecia- Dancing down stream in front of the trailing line the tive of the hospitality shown us by the good people of lure travelled directly towards the big fish, and, as Inverness. It may be that Mr. DuMond will ask us it flashed across his nose, there was a terrific strike to return, and should that happy prospect come to he was hooked. pass, it is certain that every member of the present "I was using a nine ounce bamboo rod. The reel party would immediately enroll for the outing. hummed and the line smoked as the salmon hurtled Opportunity knocks at our door here; the store of down stream in his first long run in the flight for subjects from which to choose is inexhaustible." mastery. He came out of the water sixty yards distant, and my guide volunteered the information Fly-Fishing The Margaree is world-famed for 'He weighs twenty-five pounds, sir; play him gently Supreme. its salmon fly-fishing. All the wide, and we may land him.' wide world comes here to fish noted anglers from Canada, United States and "Angling for Baracuda, Tarpon and Sailfish in Europe. They come year after year and never get Florida waters has afforded me many a thrill, but tired of the thorough enjoyment of it all. For genera- nothing I have experienced in many years on Cana- tions these devotees of the Margaree have returned dian and American streams approached the recurring with every fishing season. A United States Juris- sensations of that battle with the great salmon of that consul of eminence was there again last season after Hut Pool. There is pleasure in taking giants which forty years of familiarity with its beauties and knowl- frequent southern waters, but I take off my hat to the edge of its fishing. Another prominent visitor who Atlantic salmon—he is the gamest fish that swims."

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/. A trout catch at Framboise 4. Nash Pool on the famous Margaree, Cape Breton 2. Fish in Cape Breton and smile like this chappie 5. A salmon leap at North River Falls, St. Ann's 3. A salmon catch on the Margaree 6. Allen Langstaff fishing at the Garden Pool, Margaree

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for And so the battle was waged two hours and a Out to the Sea You are off again. Still keeping to quarter, before the angler gained the mastery. Mr. Once More. the right, you proceed on to the Sutherland's full descriptive account of his fight with western coast of the Island, to this big fish unfortunately cannot be given here, for Margaree Harbor, to Cheticamp, to Pleasant Bay, to obvious reasons, but interested parties may duplicate Bay St. Lawrence, and then you have, as the mariners his thrilling experience by paying a visit to the Mar- say, boxed the compass. Beyond Pleasant Bay there garee River. is as yet nothing but a bridle path—almost a terra in- cognita. For the time being you get to Bay St. Record Fish During the last week of August Mr. Lawrence via the Cape North-Sugar Loaf trip, but for 1927 Cecil MacKenzie of Saint John, the Government of Nova Scotia is now constructing N.B., caught a salmon weighing a new motor highway through this wilderness and fifty-two and a half pounds, length forty-two inches, when this is finished one will be able to encircle the girth thirty inches. This fish rose to a Black Dose entire Island without getting out of comfortable tour- fly and was caught in one of the Big Intervale pools ing car—such a motor outing will have no peer in all away up along the northeast branch of the Margaree. the American realm. At the close of last season this About the middle of the following month a party of new highway was completed as far as Pleasant Bay anglers landed five beautiful salmon during one after- and this year, 1928, will see the whole undertaking noon. The aggregate weight of these fish was well opened to traffic clear around this extreme northern over a hundred pounds, the largest weighing thirty section of Cape Breton and connected up with the pounds and the smallest over sixteen pounds. Many trail on the eastern coast. spectators watched the fight between the angler and the big fish. A week later a fifty-three and a half Cheticamp is the western comple- pound salmon was brought to gaff, after a battle last- A New Environment. ment of Ingonish, on the east side ing over five hours; as far as is known, this is the of the Island, and vies with the record fish for the Margaree, if not for all American latter in of its salmon fly-fishing streams. the grandeur mountain scenery. The tallest of its peaks is 1,330 feet. These heights, so many, so close, one behind the other, looking over each Delightful theme! when from recesses deep, others shoulders, are grand. It is difficult to choose Like liquid lightning on the gaudy prey Ingonish latter The flashing victim, springs with circling leap, as between and Cheticamp. The has His sides all glistening in the sunny spray, a variety of attraction to offer the tourist-—boating, And in another instant darts away, bathing, fishing and shooting; deer, bear, fox, par- While bending rod, taut line and clicking reel tridge and wild water fowl are plentiful. The black Call all the expert's cunning into play. and brown bear, the clowns of the woods, frequently Ah, who can tell, or even half reveal evidence their well-known bump of curiosity, by To those who know the fact, the joys that anglers feel. secretly investigating the hampers of holiday makers. They are perfectly harmless. Along any of the road- This Margaree Vale recalls Rawlinson's description ways in this locality you may meet old Bruin "toeing of the Capital Calah (under the old Assyrian mon- in" for all the world like an Indian. archy), overlooking the Tigris, when he declared, form- ing his pictures from the nature and extent of the Little River and Chapel River are noted salmon and ruins, that "when the setting sun lighted up the view trout streams, many pools of which are annually with the gorgeous hues seen only under an eastern leased to wealthy anglers. sky, it must have seemed to the traveller who beheld it for the first time like a vision from fairyland." The mountain country flanking the whole district is a revelation in natural attraction. A wonderful approach is that to the Margaree. A marvellous scenic picture is the Margaree country itself. A wide sweeping valley in places, but forests Cheticamp, as the name implies, is mainly Acadian and mountains everywhere. Just come and take a French and this association adds piquancy to the peep at it and be happy. visit of people from the outside world.

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H i

/. The Glendyer Valley, Mabou 4. The hills around Mabou 2. Strathlorne in the Highlands 5. Skye Mountain, Whycocomagh 3. The water front, Cheticamp. The largest Acadian settlement in America

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THE HIGHLANDS AND THE LOWLANDS cerning which many stories of heightened color are told relative to the period of gay life on the high seas. "Left Wheel" and you are southbound, following the coastal highway for many miles. Grand Etang is Three miles down the Strait is Port Hawkesbury, a fishing village. You again pass through Margaree known in the early days as Ship Harbor, and imme- Harbor. Inverness is a typical coal mining town. diately opposite, on the Nova Scotia side of the Strait Then come Strathlorne, Mabou, Hillsborough, Glen- of Canso, is MacNair's Cove. At one time, both were dyer, where you simply shut off your engine and beehives of shipping activity, with shipyards, sail "coast," down, down, mile after mile. Again you are lofts, docks, marine railways and repair shops working among Scottish Highlanders and in an atmosphere of continuously; when both harbors were thronged with undoubted romance. From this point there are many square-rigged ships refitting or awaiting a fair wind to fascinating alternatives; go northeast, go east, go continue the voyage up the Gulf or southwards. These south, go southwest, any direction takes one to some ports were, as well, the outfitting depots of the High- worthwhile and magnetic bit of countryside. land White Fleet of Judique, and scores of other Next in point of interest are Port Hood and Port fishing craft, for the Western Bank off Sable Island. Hood Island, the latter closely identified with the his- Port Hawkesbury has always been a sailor town of of Louishourg. For of the southern of many lights and shadows, full of the restless venture tory out end r this small islet was quarried the freestone used in the of the men who go down to the sea in ships. building of the great fortress. The Strait of Canso has always been the artery of commerce between the southern Atlantic and ports on "Judique on Just a short jog along the way is the Gulf and River St. Lawrence. Nowhere does one the Floor." Judique, Highland Scotch to the meet with the same indigo blue deep sea as is so backbone, with its wealth of na- peculiar to this water highway. tural beauty and with its evidences of thrift, tidiness and comfort written largely in paint or whitewash Where the Sea There is another section of Cape over its fine, neat homes. This is the cradle of the is Baulked. Breton which the tourist must not first Highland Scots in western Breton, chiefly Cape miss seeing. From Port Hastings of the Clanranald sept—"the fairest of and women make a wide detour and take in River Inhabitants, bravest of men." In the days of yore, a Judiquer was River Dennis, Marble Mountain, West Bay, Cleve- a to conjure with alike in fistic art, wrestling, or name land, Balmoral and St. Peter's, and then, deflecting doing the light fantastic "on the floor." While your course once more, continue on to Soldier's Cove, no longer fights, it still dances, laughs and Judique Loch Lomond, Stirling, Fourchie, Framboise, Saint sings, and loyally lives up to its traditional reputation Esprit, L'Arehe\eque, L'Ardoise and back to St. for genuine Highland hospitality. With sad recollec- Peter's, all of these places well worth the short time tions of Cullodtn these descendants of the men of it takes to make this "off-side" run. In doing this perished hopes came to Cape Breton to live in silent side trip you have, so to speak, coursed the figure solitude, and nurse with Celtic gloom the of memory eight. You can go arounel either side of Loch the defeat of their forefathers. It is said that the Lomond Scotchmen of Judique are bigger men in statue than "Oh! Ye'll tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road, their Celtic brethren who still reside in the High- And I'll be in (St. Peter's) afore ye." lands of Scotland. It is not an uncommon thing to note several sons in the one family who stand well Framboise has endless allurement as a seaside "over six feet in their seeks." resort. Like Golden Gate, San Francisco, it has its Seal Rocks where Sea Lions disport themselves con- Here there is a world that still believes in fairies. tinuously. However, at the Golden Gate Park not Their lives are steeped in the unknown—so character- more than ten or a dozen of these big seals may be istic of the Celt. There is the tale of the "Phantom seen, whilst at Framboise several hundreds may be Ship o' St. George's Bay," which sailed when a noted sunning themselves or engaged in entertaining Cameron o' Lochiel is about to die, and many an- playfulness, just beyond gunshot range from the shore. other story in keeping with this one. You must get Here is one of the grandest surf bathing beaches of all of these at first hand. this continent, about one hundred yards in width and Deepest Blue of And now it's on to Craigmore, stretching along the coast for some three to four miles. of the Deep Crngnish and Port Hastings, and Inside of the beach are two large lakes. The back- Blue Sea. you are at the north entrance of the ground is a mass of high and rugged hilltop. There'll Strait of Canso, the western gate of come a time when this spot will outrival the most pop- Cape Breton. Nearly opposite is Pirates' Cove, con- ular present day beach resorts of all North America.

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5. Bourgeoise, in the Acadian Country 1. Sunrise, L'Ardoise River Drawbridge across St. Peter's Canal 2. D'Escousse, French Acadian Village 6. Highway Village 3. Acadian boys gathering eel grass 7. St. Peter's 4. Approach to St. Peter's Canal, Bras d'Or Lakes 8. St. Peter's Bay 42 :€»- CAPE BRETON •*

You will be attracted by St. Peter's. It's a very The peculiar quaintness of this locality pulls at the pretty village. The lines of old French fortified out- heart-strings. Novelists have written entertaining posts are of much interest. You will, in all likelihood, stories about this people, including the domestic sur- note some United States or Canadian pleasure craft roundings, the superstitions, along with other local locking through the canal. characteristics. Here one comes distinctly into con- tact with "ye olden days." Many of the maidens Here the flooding main, rushing through the Little still wear the dainty Norman kirtle and the headdress and Big Bras d'Or Guts, eddying through creeks and of snow white linen. A few of the older women con- inlets, finds no egress until at the turn of the tide it tinue the use of their antique head covering, a black retraces its course back to the Atlantic at the eastern coif or handkerchief twisted around the head and entrance some seventy or more miles away. The formed into a cone-shaped structure. These Acadian navigation channel leading from the Lakes to St. people take their religion demurely gay, pervaded by Peter's is a tortuous one, weaving its way in and out light and color; and a visit to Arichat, the shire town, and in and out again, and yet again, around and should by all means include a Sunday and attendance between a myriad of small islets, never at any moment, at the church services. Arichat is a very old town nor at any turn, revealing or disclosing the next com- with an individuality and charm all its own and many pass direction; the way out always seeming a mystery an hour be spent entertainingly among its local and a puzzle. may raconteurs, who have an amazing repertoire of legend Leaving St. Peter's and passing along the banks of and story. the River Bourgeoise you come within hailing distance of Isle Madame, which locality will give you an en- Weird Summer on the Acadian shore is a tirely new perspective of the beauties of Cape Breton. Legendary Tales, revelation. The season arrives pell mell. All in a day the change OLD WORLD ASSOCIATION comes. All in an instant as 'twere the wild flowers begin to riot and bloom over the entire land. Here is A Distinctive Now we introduce you to a dis- a moorland which is a carpet of flowers. The land- Commnnity. tinctly different bit of country from scape often presents incredible vividness cf color; any you have so far visited. This gold-green fields bespattered with snow-white daisies new trail will quite delightfully round off the itinerary subdued by the duller tones of moss-hummocks and which, through this booklet, has been outlined for brown rocks. The comparatively thin strip of land your summer holiday. Isle Madame! "My Lady's forming the isle appears almost to hang between sky Isle"—so named after one of the queens of France, and sea, seemingly adrift in the azure, claimed alike will be your next point of contact with beautiful Cape or equally by firmament above and water beneath. Breton. Behind the shire town of Arichat lies a waste land, "O, tiny gem in ocean shrine, fretted always by the sea. Where'er thy sailor sons may roam, Thou nearest the tender name of home Many weird tales are told by the simple fisherfolk For every wandering child of thine." concerning this stretch of "marshland, thicket, gnarled An American once spoke of this Island as "seven rock, steep hills and hilltop." To quote a novelist on miles long and four inches wide"— and a visit to the this subject: "strange noises, rumblings, clankings, Isle Madame will give you the only means of fully shrill voices, all heard above the ceaseless roar of the appreciating the force of this bit of humor. For it sea; death fires; headless creatures—like horses, gal- is a small island; but it has intensely interesting loping through the darkness; knockings at doors, on associations and it will pay you to go there. Lennox dreary nights, of hands not human." And so on, Passage which divides the island from the mainland ad infinitum horrornm. is now spanned by a substantially constructed perma- Simple, the overlooking Arichat nent bridge so that you'll have a smooth motor high- A On summit Steadfast Faith. stands a Calvary. Nobody knows way all the way through. Don't miss this trip, what- long it has stood there; nobody ever else you may pass up. how knows why it was first erected. It is a tall wooden This diminutive kingdom was settled partly by cross, painted black and bearing on its centre, Acadians expelled from the Land of Evangeline, partly beneath a rude penthouse, a small crucifix, an by French Huguenots from the Channel Isles and partly encouragement, as the local folks say, for those by refugees from old Louisbourg. All of these people who have to cross the bad country, the barrens, speak the language of the Bourbons of monarchial by night. It is also a consolation for the simple folk France—the purest Parisian French. who go out to the fishing grounds day after day. As

[43] 1. The calm beauty of Aspy Bay, Cape Breton Island, N.S. 4. Noel Sylliboy, Chief of the Mic-Macs, listening to the yearly The high peak, Cabot's "Prima Terra Vista" sermon on 2. The stone on Chapel Island where Father Maillard, mission- 5. Proposed Memorial Tower, Louisburg. Foundations already ary to the Mic-Macs, first preached to them over a hun- laid dred years ago 6. After the day's fishing, Neil's Harbor 3. Central part of procession, with statue of St. Ann within 7. Little Joe, oldest Mic-Mac, 103 years of age awning. Indian with basket strewing rose leaves. Mic- 8. Type of Coastal and Lake Tourist Excursion Steamers from Mac women form in procession, and each in turn kneels Sydney before St. Ann to receive her blessing 9. Mic-Mac wigwam

[-14 1 so- CAPE BRETON the fisher lads leave the shore they turn to the crucifix as mementos of their visit to Cape Breton and take and pray for a safe return, and the women folk do the them back home for household adornment. These same thing at home for the preservation of fathers and natives give demonstrations of "moose calling" on a sons. horn of birch bark, shaped like an ice-cream cone only

"The sea is too unfriendly; fickle tides of larger size, the sound produced being weird and Await their keels, and mounting crest by crest effective. The young Indian lads give exhibitions of They find no comfort on the horizon's rim. dancing, while an old Indian beats time on a tom-tom. Here they behold what evermore abides, there is the in Dip fingers in the stoup, cross brows and breast, Then war dance, which a number of Fall to their knees and lose their cares in Him." young and old Indians take part—keeping time to a rather blood-curdling dirge. It's all both interesting There, that is just a bit of this lovely, weird country- and entertaining. side and a touch of the life of an intensely interesting people. To tell you more would only spoil the subject EACH NATION LEFT INDELIBLE STAMP for your visit. You must see this little Island and talk to the quaint folks for yourself. You will relish every Local nomenclature reveals the story of the original moment of the time you spend in "My Lady's Isle." settlement of the Island by the Indians as well as by Some of the most beautiful drives to be found the early voyagers from Europe. Familiar Indian throughout Cape Breton are on Isle Madame and no names exist for wellnigh every town, hamlet, river, visitor should come to or leave this section of the lake or mountain. French terms here and there have Island without having an auto run among these replaced the Indian, as for instance in the case of the delightful Acadian settlements—Petit de Grat, D'Es- Mira, the Mic-Mac for which was Soolakade, "the cousse, Cape de Ronde, Grandique, Poulamon, Bay of Silver Place." Spanish, Portuguese, and Scotch have Rocks, Port Royal, West Arichat, and many another also contributed to the place names of Cape Breton. enticing spot. Baie de Espagnol, Spanish River, now Sydney Harbor, denotes the former Spanish occupation, as also does A COLORFUL FEATURE OF YOUR VISIT Point Aconi. Lorraine is a reminder of German During your stay in Cape Breton you will probably settlement. Ingonish is said to be from the Portu- have come into contact with still another highly enter- guese. Visitors will find entertainment in collecting taining feature of this Island, which may lend addi- all of these names and securing the proper translations, tional color to the general picture. We have reference some of which have a locality sensing whilst others are to encampments of the Mic-Mac Indians, who are an replete with and rich in historical association. offshoot of the Algonquins and were recognized as the purest blooded branch of the Red Man in eastern The Autumn As a general rule most people think America. Season. only of summer as a vacation and holiday time. The Autumn months Sacred Annual Once a year, the last week in July, in Cape Breton are the most glorious of all the days of Festival of the Indians foregather at Chapel the year. All visitors who possibly can should extend Indians. Island, near St. Peter's, where sacred their trip to include the waning days of September rites and sacraments are observed and stay on well along into October. and all marriages and christenings are performed. It This is the time for wild fowl shooting, wild geese is the Festival of St. Anne. This little island theatre and wild ducks are plentiful. Along the rivers, out was named by Father Maillard, the early missionary upon the lakes and on the marshes, there is game to the Indian people, "He Famille," or the Isle of the galore. Many visitors come here especially 'for this Holy Family. This annual fete attracts many visitors sport. from far and near and on the last day of the cere- And everywhere the autumn woods are a riot of monies, Sunday, steamship services from all parts of color. Glorious! Along the roadways, and by the the Island are operated. The first shrine in America fields, line upon line of trees painted in every hue. was built by the Indians at St. Ann's, in 1629. Come and stay with us all summer, all autumn. It is entertaining to scan the prayer book and You'll never have a tiresome moment all throughout catechism of these primitive people, printed as they June, July, August, September and October. are in arbitrary characters—invented for them by the Trappist monks. The Open The Sydneys provide the true gate- These Indians have a handicraft that is all their Sesame to this way, the open sesame, to all of this own—basket weaving, moccasin beading, rustic flower Fairyland. world of wonders. Book your pas- stands and lawn benches, canoes and paddles, churns, sage to the Sydneys and a summer standard measures, and so on. Visitors seek these vacation rivalling your fondest dreams lies right ahead

45 .&«*- CAPE BRETON -*s

Wokun," the short cut 1. Entrance to Sydney River 3. Sydney River looking up towards "Wu leading to The Sydneys and 2. The Beach at Ben Evin along Main Motor Highway to the 4. Main Motor Highway, Ben Evin, Sydneys and Glace Bay Glace Bay

\6 — —

S&- C A P E BRETON +9 of you. You will say, upon arriving at the Sydneys: In all places in Cape Breton one meets with that "Eureka, I have found it!" Pack up your old kit bag hearty Scotch hospitality which means so much to the and come to Cape Breton for the summer and autumn traveller when far from home. It is this combination months. Hotel accommodation is everything that of subtle charm, the healthy outdoor recreation, the could be desired, but, if you prefer it, bring your tent utter detachment from life's cares, the sense of ease along with you and live in the open, in one or another and comfort and rest, which all unite to inspire a of the sublime retreats to be found on every hand. thrilling happiness in those fortunate enough to come For under any circumstances summer and autumn here and enjoy them. It is a fairy land, that gives back life in Cape Breton is ideal. Each summer they come joy and health so necessary to those who toil in from the lands of the South and West—like the crowded cities. Many have toured the globe and seen Bedouins of today who come up from the Mesopo- more than half its wonders only to find that here in tamia region—and dot the valleys and hillsides with Cape Breton the best Summerland in the world had their cars and tents; pitching their canvas almost in all the time been lying directly at their very door. every spot over the face of the Island. If you really As soon as the sap begins to run in the maples, when love the Big Out-of-Doors, here it is. the swallows flit northward, when far overhead in the "All our dusky twilight stores night sky you hear the honking of the wild geese To your senses give; going north, too—"a remote, trailing shadow, Come in and lock the doors, .", We'll show you how to live." a magnificant seeking through solitude. then let the wanderlust for Cape Breton urge you. Start then OUR FINAL WORD planning to spend a part of your summer and autumn months where everything in Nature calls to you to Count yourself not truly happy until you have unpack your kit and bide awhile in utter and glorious stood among the peerless mountains of Breton Cape content. and felt the spell of the greatness of this Island. Here in Cape Breton you will learn to fully appre- Come and learn something of the beauty and marvel ciate that life is after all big and broad, and much of this North American land. Realize at first hand worthwhile. Here you will find abundant joy for the unrivalled charm of this country. Catch the new leaving the dark and dusty walls of office. Here rest phrase, "Eastward and Northward Ho!" Translate upon the lap of earth, having each night the stars, the into reality the dream that has for so long been lying moon, the blue sky and fresh air. Here is a bigness close to your heart—a new and unspoiled summer that challenges you. Come here, loaf and refresh your playground, where there is no alarm clock to awake soul, and in it all know you have had a happy time. you in the morning; where it is early to bed and early to rise; where the kiddies, who should accompany you, A meagre portion only of Cape Breton's story has will directly after sundown seek their pillows. It is been revealed in these pages, for, if you do come, you the Great Out-of-Doors that does it. will be reminded of the exclamation of the Queen of " Dere he go! Sheba, when she came up from Southern Arabia to Fas' asleep in a minute or so visit King Solomon, and respecting the reports that An' he stay like dat till de rooster crow." had previously been given her of the glories of his In Cape Breton you never have to wait for sleep's caress. kingdom: "The half was not told me."

OUR LATCH STRING IS ALWAYS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE DOOR. COME THIS SUMMER. COME EVERY SUMMER. COME TO CAPE BRETON.

47] — — . . —

Game Laws in Brief Improved Motor Highways of Cape Breton TOURIST TRAVEL ROUTES FISHING TRURO TO MULGRAVE, PORT HAWKESBURY, Mileage There are no preserved salmon or trout waters in SYDNEY AND GLACE BAY 16.7 End of road; left. Nova Scotia. The visitor may fish where he wishes, Mileage 18.1 End of road; right. secure a license, 18.7 Little Bras d'Or. 4-cor. Left. Lake View but non-resident sport fishermen must 0.0 Truro—Prince and Inglis Streets at banks. in Dick. road; which may be procured irom any fish warden any East on Prince St. House, Mis. Mack Right-hand are: right. town for $5.00. The open seasons 0.2 Walker St. at filling station; left. Right 0.8 Right-hand road; right on to Pictou Road. 19.3 hand road; right. Salmon (Angling) —On the Island of Cape Breton 34.0 Boulardarie Centre. 5 . Fork, left. the open season is from June 1st to October 15th. 13.5 Kemptown 39.9 Right-hand road; right to Ferry. Bear up- 30. grade beyond ferry landing. The weekly bag limit is 16.1 Fork; left. 25.0 Salt Springs. 49.1 Baddeck. Through 4-cor. 49.2. Post Office, to September 30th. (Daily New Bras d'Or House, Hotel Baddeck, Tele- Trout—From April 1st 29.2 Fork; right downgrade. (Road at left goes to of bag limit not exceeding thirty with a total weight Pictou). graph House. right. Bear 56.0. ten pounds). 31.5 Green Hill. 55.8 Fork; 61.2 Middle River. Maclvor's. Riverside Inn, 34.1 Alma—Left 34.1 is route to Pictou. Avoid 28th. Kettle. Bass—October 1st to February right 35.6. Singing 63.5 Fork; left. 38.1 Fork; left. (Road at right angles goes to Right-hand road beyond bridge; sharp right Stellarton). Bear left 40.3. 64.0 HUNTING up-grade. Bear left 73.8. 40.6 George St. right with trolley. Northeast Margaree. M. Smith, Ross 40.8 New Glasgow. Official Nova Scotia Motor 76.4 J. J. J. Non-residents must pay a license fee of $50.00 to Irgraham's. League Garage John R. Fraser. Hotels Mai McDonald, hunt Big Game. $15.00 for Small Game, excepting — 81.3 Margaree Forks. Riverview Inn. MissCoady. fee Norfolk, Vendome. Woodcock and Snipe. Un-naturalized residents is Left-hand road at store; left. 40.8 New Glasgow—-George and Provost Streets, Chaisson's. $25.00 for big and small game. No person not a 86.2 Southwest Margaree. all non- beyond R.R. Right on Provost St. resident may hunt without a license and 91.0 Dunvegan. End of road at P.O. Left down- 41.0 End of Street; left. residents shall be accompanied by licensed guide. The grade. open seasons are: 41 . 1 Marsh St. left from trolley. 95 . 2 Broad Cove. 41.5 Fork; left. Bear left 43.1. Bear right 46.7. 96 2 Right-hand road; left. 49.3 End of road beyond bridge; left. Deer—From October 16th to October 31st. Female 97.4 Right-hand road beyond bridge; right up- deer and animals under two years of age are protected. 49.4 Fork; right. 49.6 Sutherland. grade. 98.6 Inverness. Grand Central, Inverness. 53 . 5 French River. Through 4-cor. 99.2. BIRDS 61.0 Barneys River. Avoid right 61.5. Mass 101.5 ot road; right. Marshy. Hope station 67.7. End Wild Geese and Brant—From September 15th to 71.4 James River. 102.4 Strathlorne. 112.8 Mabou. At P.O. Through. Cameron House. December 31st. 80.2 Left-hand road at College campus; left across 117.8 Mabou. Left beyond bridge 117.8 bridge, then right. Southwest leads to Whycoeomagh. Plover and Yellow Legs From August 15th to 80.4 Antigonish. Official Nova Scotia Motor League — House. November 30th. Garage, D. R. MacKay. Hotel—Royal 122.1 Port Hood. MacDonnell 124.2 Harborview. George, at Post Office. Keep ahead. 134.0 Ruffed Grouse (Common partridge), protected. 80.8 Right-hand road between bridges; right. Bear Judique. — 151.2 Port Hastings. Haughan Lodge. left across bridge 85.1, then right. 154.6 Port Hawkesbury. 4-cor. at church. Farqu- Canada Grouse (Spruce partridge), protected. 85.5 Fork; left. Avoid 86.8. — har House. 91.8 Heatherton. Fork; left. Hungarian Partridge— Protected. 94.5 Bayfield. SIDE-TRIP 95.6 Afton. Chaiscon's hotel; right across Pheasants—Protected. 98 . 8 Fork ; left and next right 0.0 Margaree Forks. 99.7 Tracadie. bridge, pass creamery; on to Harbor. 102.1 Monastery. Fork. Left across R.R. Sharp 6.0 Margaree Harbor. Margaree House. Come

turn to right beyond bridge. back half mile, cross bridge; straight ahead ; 114.4 Fork; right downgrade turn left, straight ahead, through Belle Cote; r ernes 114.7 Port Mulgrave. Official Nova Scotia Motor Grand Etang. League Garage, J. J. Hoare. Hotel—Seaside 21.0 Cheticamp. Following coastal drive all way. Hotel. Through along Strait of Canso. Royal. UNDER JURISDICTION OF DEPARTMENT 115.0 Right on to wharf for steam ferry. From OF HIGHWAYS, NOVA SCOTIA landing proceed upgrade to Main St. MARGAREE HARBOUR TO INVERNESS—VIA 115.2 Port Hawkesbury. 4-cor. at church. Right SHORE ROAD—CHIMNEY CORNER AND Terminal through business section. ST. ROSE Points Service Rates 115.7 Fork; left. Pass Maclntyre's Lake Station. 121.3. 0.0 Margaree Harbor. 15.0 Inverness. Big Bras d'Or Day 7.30 a.m.- 10.00 p.m. S0.70 Car 129.0 Cleveland. Avoid left 133.9. to .15 Pass. 134.4 Grand Anse. 0.0 Margaree Forks. 141.6 Cannes. Margaree Chapel. NewCampbell- Night 10.00 p.m.-7.30 a.m. 2.00 Car 5.0 South West 142.6 River Bourgeois. End of road at school. 13.0 Scottsville. ton .30 Pass. Sharp left upgrade. 25 . Head Lake Ainslee. Englishtown Day 7.30 a.m. -10 00 p.m. .70 Car 146.9 St. Peters. Official Nova Scotia Motor League. 30.0 Whycoeomagh. Hotel—At bank. Through Cross Canal 147.4. to .15 Pass. Avoid right 148.0. 0.0 North East Margaree. Riverview Hotel. Opposite side Night 10.00 p.m. -7. 30 a.m. 2.00 Car 149.2 End of road; left along Bras d'Or Lake. 4.0 Chapel, East Margaree. 7.0 .30 Pass. 171.0 Irish Cove. Margaree Harbor. 180.6 Big Pond. Ross Ferry Day 7.30 a.m. 10.00 p.m. 1.00 Car 193.0 East Bay. 0.0 N. E. Margaree, Rossville. 3.0 Margaree Forks at Hatchery Rd. P. O. to .15 Pass. 205.4 Townsend St. at trolley; right. 4.2 Hatchery. Big Harbor Night 10.00 p.m. -7. 30 a.m. 2.00 Car 205.5 Charlotte St. left from trollev. 205.9 Sydney. 11.1 Big Intervale. .30 Pass. 219.0 Glace Bay. BLACK ROCK ROAD Grand Day 7.30 a.m-10.00 p. m 1.00 Car Margaree Forks Post Office Narrows .15 Pass. SYDNEY TO BADDECK, MARGAREE, INVER- 0.0 Hatchery— Upper over road. to Night 10.00 p.m. 7.30 a.m. 2.00 Car NESS AND HAWKESBURY 5.0 Big Intervale. [ona .30 Pass. Mileage 0.0 Sydney—Charlotte and Dorchester Streets at 7.00 .50 Little Narrows Day a.m.-8.00 p.m. Car Post Office and Banks, south on Charlotte St. SYDNEY TO HAWKESBURY VIA BADDECK, to Free Pass 0.4 Townsend St. at Church. Right. NYANZA, BUCKLAW AND WHYCOCOMAGII, Opposite Side Night 8.00 p.m.-7.00 a.m. 1.00 Car 0.5 End of street; left along harbor front. VICTORIA TRAIL 2.6 Right-hand at store; right. 0.0 Sydney. .10 Pass. 3.0 End of road; left. Avoid left 3.3. Bear 49.5 Baddeck. Mulgrave Day 7.00 a. m.-<). 00 p.m. 1.50 Car across bridge 8.4, then right beyond. 57.5 Nyanza, Nyanza Hotel. Bucklaw. 77.0 to .25 Pass. 9.9 End of road; right across R.R. Whycoeomagh, Bay View, Hillcrest, Hiawatha, 13.9 North Sydney; right across R.R. Village Inn. Hawkesbury Night 9.00 p.m. -7.00 a.m. 3.00 Car 14.3 Left-hand street; left from trolley. 116.0 Port Hastings. .50 Pass. 14.4 4 cor. right. 117.0 Port Hawkesbury

[48 1 1

Improved Motor Highways of Cape Breton

TOURIST TRAVEL ROUTES

SYDNEY TO PORT HAWKESBURY SYDNEY—GABARUS -Continued SYDNEY GRAND NARROWS, VIA N ISLE MADAME DRIVES -Continued VIA GRAND NARROWS Mileage EAST BAY—Continued Mileage Mileage Mileage 15.6 Big Ridge School. 12.5 Arichat Church. 15.7 East Bay Road. 0.0 Sydney. 18.4 Campbelldale Road, right. \ 13.5 Royal Bank. Arichat. 24.5 Eskasoni. Rf. right to Beaver Cove 9.9 Leitches Creek. 19.7 French Road School. N Side 0.0 Grand Anse 27.0 Indian Reserve Chapel, Rd. right 13.9 Barrachois. 24.5 Gabarus—Louisburg Road, left. E.Bay 4.9 W. Arichat Road. " up Indian Brook. Via Lennox Ferry 18.9 Boisdale. 26.7 Fourchu Road, right. Road 7.2 Lennox Ferry Road, right 29.5 Road right to Island. Road. Shenacadie. 29.0 Gabarus Church. Xmas 7.6 Road left (Branch). 33.0 Castle Christmas Island. 29.5 Gull Cove Road, right. Bay. 13.2 Royal Bank. Arichat. 34.8 Benacadie Pond. Grand Narrows. 0.0 Sydney Town Line. 0.0 Grand Anse. Ferry, 39.8 Grand Narrows Road. 4.9 3.1 Elect. Ry. Crossing^ Isydney- W. Arichat Road. lona. Lorway Crossing Reserve. 41.6 Grand Narrows. 7.2 Lennox Ferry Road. 7.6 — (Glace Bay. Via D'Escousse MacKinnon's Harbor. Wilson Road, right. 9.0 Poulamond. 7.8 Road. Ottawa Brook. 8.4 Glace Bay Town Line 4.2 milesi 10.8 D'Escousse Road. Estmere. 0.0 Glace Bay Town Line (Bridge) ) 14.8 Road left to Pondvilie. Little GRAND NARROWS—SYDNEY Narrows. 1.2 Road to Dom. No. 6. left. IGlace Bay- 17 4 Royal Bank. Arichat. Ferry. LEITCHES 4.6 Schooner Pond Road, left. [Morien. VIA CREEK (Whycocomagh. Take Victoria Trail. 5.2 McAulay's Corner. Morien. 0.0 Grand Narrows. 30.0 ^Port Hastings. 0.0 McAulay's Corner, Morien. iPort Hawkesbury. 1.8 Benacadie Road. | 2.4 Morien Station Junction. 3.1 Christmas Island. ILittle Bras d'Or- Grand 4.7 Broughton Road, left. > Birch Grove- 9.1 Shenacadie. f Narrows Road. PORT HAWKESBURY TO INVERNESS (Birch 7.0 Towers Road, right Glace Bay. 14.9 Beaver Cove. Grove). 56.0 Miles SYDNEY TO BAY ST. LAWRENCE 18.0 Boisdale. J 8.6 Glace Bay Town Line. 20. S Barachois Mountain Road, right. g Port Hawkesbury, 4-cor. at Church North VIA NORTH SHORE 24.9 Leitches Creek Road (Leitches Creek). along Strait of Canso. (If coming fn ferry. 28.9 Main Trunk Road. 0.0 Sydney. Follow Black Diamond Trail (White, left). 36.7 Sydney Line. Black. White) to Bras d'Or. Town 3 4 Port Hastings. Avoid right 3.5. Th; ugh Post Office. 9.0 Leitches Creek. SYDNEY—WATERFORD 38 9 Sydney 4-cor. 18.6. 14.0 North Sydney. 20.6 Judique. Post Office. 17.0 Little Bras d'Or Bridge. Sydney 29.1 Fork; left across bridge. 25.5 Big Bras d'Or. Subway. LITTLE NARROWS—IONA ROAD 30.4 Harbourview. Ferry. 3 7 Sydney City Boundary. 32.5 Port Hood. Right-hand road. Sharp right. 26.0 New Campbellton. Left, up grade along t (I South Bar. Little Narrows. Avoid right 34.2. Point shore line. Right. 8 4 Low Church. 3.2 Portage (roads to Orangedale and Whycoco- 36.8 Southwest Mabou. (Road to the right leads 17 right. 37.0 Enghshtown. MacRitchie's. 11 Hinchey's Store, No. Road, magh, right). to Whycocomagh). Road. Ferry. Follow Beach. Straight ahead. 11 7 Brown 5 2 Estmere. 37.3 Fork; left. 43.0 Indian Brook. 1.' 9 Waterford Town Line. 10.4 McKinnon's Harbor (road to Barra Glen, left). 52.2 Strathlorne. 1 .6 miles. 52.0 Breton Cove. D. B. MacLeod's. 12 7 Road left (to Barra Glen Road). 53. Left-hand road; left. Through 4-cor. 55.4. 14 Line. 65.0 Top of "Smoky." Observation Tower; left, 5 Waterford Town 15.9 lona. 56 Inverness. about fifteen minutes walk from highway. 16 5 New Bridge. South Bay. Ingonish. Curtis and Mrs. 17 8 Gardiner Road. Warburton Road. Peters. 19 2 MORIEN—MIRA- HORNE'S ROAD 77.0 North Bay. Burke's. 19 6 Dominion Town Line. (Town of Dominion. .•1 1 Dominion Town Line. j Road to Reserve 90.0 Neil's Harbor. Fork; left. (Right goes into Morien (McAulay's Corner) Rd. to INVERNESS TO SYDNEY SECTION 5 Corner (Reserve). (on Neil's Harbor). Follow straight ahead to 22 Lorway 1 Sydney-Glace Grove, right. Bay Road). Middle Harbor, Aspy Bay. Turn right. I Homeville (road to Belloni, right). 57 2 End of road at foot of grade; left across bridge 105.0 Dingwall. Return. Round Island (road to Broughton Road). 59 4 Broad Cove. Through 4-cor. 63.4 107.0 Right. Fork; keep ahead. Two Forks; turn 9.9 Mira Gut (Horns Road, right). 63 6 Dunvegan, right-hand road at P. O., right. right. Right. SYDNEY—LOCH LOMOND—GRAND RIVER 12.5 Broughton Road, right. 68 4 Southwest Margaree. Bay St. Lawrence. 16.5 Sydney-Louisburg Road. 68 7 Fork at Church; left. —L'ARDOISE—ST. PETER'S 73 4 Margaree Forks, end of road. Right (River RETURN TRIP View Inn). 0.0 Sydney Line. 78 2 Northeast Margaree. Follow same trail back to Loch Barrachois Brook 23.4 Main Trunk Road, Lomond Road. BADDECK—BAY -ST. LAWRENCE 78 6 Fork; right upgrade. Bear right 80.8. Bridge, near North River; turn right; forks, left. 27.1 Gaspereaux River Road, 90 6 Left-hand road; sharp left. left, cross North River Bridge follow on 29.5 right. Village Line. and North Glen Road, Baddeck ) 91 Fork; right. to Baddeck. left. right. 31.5 Salem Road. 3 3 Road, } Trunk. 93 4 Middle River. Through 4-cor. 94.7 winding 32.25 Salmon River Road, right. 4 4 Road to Ross Ferry, right. j upgrade. 15 Church. left. 35. Loch Lomond 6 4 Road to Backlands, 98 8 Fork; left. Bear right across bridge 102.1. SYDNEY—LOUISBURG 35.35 Road Around Lake, right. 7 4 Road to Ross Ferry, right (Marsh Road). 105 5 Baddeck. Official Nova Scotia Motor League 36.25 Road to Framboise, left. 10 8 Road to North River, left (South Gut Chu ch). Garage, Norman Bethune's Garage. Hotels. 0.0 Sydney City Boundary. 37.15 Loch Lomond P. O. (Drummondville). 17 7 Kelly's Mountain. Rd. right I Enghshtown.p no i: a hiown 110 2 Right-hand road; right. 0.4 Hardwood Hill Road. left. 39.00 Road Around Lake. (Head Loch Lomond). 1H 3 Enghshtown Ferry. / 114 6 Bear right to Ross Ferry across Great Bras 9.0 Morrison Road, left. 41.0 Grand River Falls (about),. 22 8 Barrachois Bridge (Tarbot Road left). d'Or. Ferry charge 70 cents and 15 cents. 9.0 Home's Road, left. 43.1 Road to McNab's Cove, right. 24 6 Indian Brook Bridge. 1 14 7 End of road beyond landing; left. 9.5 North S. Mira Road (River), right. 46.5 Fourchu Road, left. 32 5 Road to Shore at D. B. McLeod's Pt. (Breton 120 7 Boulardarie Centre. 10.2 Albert Bridge. 46.75 Grand River Bridge, left. Cove). 135 3 End of road; left. 10.6 Trout Brook Road. 46.95 Road left (along river). 34 9 French River Bridge (French River). 135 9 Little Bras d'Or, 4-cor. beyond R.R.; right. 10.7 Brickyard Road, left. L'Ardoise). 52.5 Cross Roads (Lower 37 8 Wreck Cove Bridge (Wreck Cove). 136 5 Left-hand road; left. 14.8 Catalone Road, left. 53.55 Road, left. ( 43 4 Pathend Bridge (.Foot Smoky Mtn.). 137 9 Right-hand road; right. 15.5 " New Boston Road, right. 54.2 right. 44 9 Top Smoky. 139 Fork, R.R.; right. LArdolseiMrdoise - 9 beyond 16.0 Mainadieu Road. left. " 54.65 left. | 49 1 Ingonish Ferry. 140 2 4-cor.; left. 17.9 Old French right. " Road, 55.0 " j 51 4 Ingonish River Bridge (Head Harbor). 141) 3 End of street at trolley; right. 21.7 Louisburg Town Line. 56 85 Pottie's Store (Rockdale). 55 I Ingonish Church (Ingonish Centre). 140 7 North Sydney. Official Nova Scotia League 60.7 Trunk Road (near St. Peter's). 55 % Clyburn Bridge. Garage, D. Campbell. (North J. 60 5 Turn on Road to Neil's Harbour, etc. 144 7 Left-hand road beyond R.R.; left. Bear left MARION BRIDGE—VICTORIA BRIDGE Bay). across bridge 146.1 and left beyond. GABARUS—FOURCHU—GRAND RIVER 70 5 Road right to Neil's Harbour. 147 Fork, at R.R.; right upgrade. 0.0 Sydney-Gabarus Road Junction (N. side of 78 3 White Point Road, right (South Harbour). 151 6 Right-hand road; right across bridge. Nil 8 Road to Dingwall, right (Cape North). River 9,9 miles from Sydney). Gabarus. 152 End of road; left. 3.5 Hillside Road, right. 87 Sugar Loaf. 1 Townsend St. Trolley; right one block. Road right to Sydney-Gabarus Road. 154 at 5.9 Intervale Road, 93 1 Bay St. Lawrence. 154 Charlotte St. left trom right. 4.3 Gabarus Lake. (Rd. right to Grand Mira). 2 trolleV. 6.1 Bridge. Lower River. 154 Sydney. Charlotte and Dorchester Streets, at Salmon 13.0 Fourchu Road, right. (Fourchu Village 0.5, 6 7.7 Intervale Road, right. and P. O. Official Nova Scotia Motor left). banks 7.8 Salmon River Road, right. Loch Lomond). League Garage, Sydney Motors Limited. (To 14.5 Fuller's Bridge. BADDECK—WHYCOCOMAGH 10.3 Black's Road, right. Hotels— Isle Royale. Norfolk. Vidal. Ran- 18.3 Stirling (Framboise) Road, right. 12.0 Kelvin Glen Road, right 23.0 Framboise. 0.0 Bras d'Or Hotel (Baddeck). dolph, Minto, Grand, Savoy, Victoria. Cecil. 12.1 Kelvin Brook Bridge. Paul's, 32.5 St. Esprit. 0.6 Village Line. Watson's. 14.7 Lewis Bay West Road, right. 35.0 Ferguson Lake. 6.4 Lower Bridge. 15.4 Victoria Bridge. 37.3 Grand River Bridge. 6.9 Buckwheat Road, right. 8.3 Nyanza Wharf. 9.3 Yankee Line Road, right. GRAND 9.5 Lower Middle River Bridge. MIRA SOUTH LOUISBURG—GABARUS 9.6 W. Side Middle River, right. 15.4 Victoria 11 6 St. Patrick's Channel. Bridge. Louisburg. 16.3 Grand Mira-Gabarus 12.9 Humes. Road, right. 0.5 to Old Fort. 21.7 Road 16.9 County Line (Inverness). Campbelldale Road, right. 4.0 Kennington Cove. 29.2 COURTESY Junction with Sydney-Gabarus Road. 10.6 Sydney-Gabarus Road. (South side of River 10.7 miles from Sydney). The photo views used for reproduc- ISLE MADAME DRIVES in were supplied by SYDNEY—GRAND NARROWS, VIA N. SIDE tion this folder SYDNEY-GABARUS 0.0 Grand Anse (Junct. with Trunk Road). EAST BAY 0.6 Road to Grand Anse Station, right. photographers H. O. Dodge and N. 0.0 Sydney Post Office. 1.3 Road, left. Louisdale MacLeod, Sydney, W. R. MacAskill 2.4 Sydney Town Line. 0.0 Sydney P. O. 3.9-4.4 Lennox Passage Bridge. 6.5 Serpent Lake Road, left. 2.2 City Line. 4.9 W. Arichat Road, right. Edson Graham, Wolfvitle, and 12.3 Roads right and left (N. side river). 2.7 Perry Lewis Corner 8.2 Road right to Janorin Island. 12.4 Marion Bridge (on bridge). 7.4 Blacketts Lake Rd. Main Trunk Road. 8.6 Road right to Port Royal (via W. Arichat), Magazine. 12.5 Trout Brook Road. left. 8.45 Meadows Rd. 9.3 Road right. 12.8 McKeigan Road, left. 11.9 Mcintosh Corner. 9.8 W. Arichat Church. 13.1 Grand Mira South Road, right. 14.0 Chapel Rd., right. 11.3 Shore Road, right.

49 ......

Where to stay in Cape Breton

The information given in this folder is the latest available, but it is not guaranteed by us. Prospective visitors should arrange for and confirm reservations and rates in advance. The hotel prices as listed herein appear to be a reason- able charge for accommodation and service provided. If patrons of these hotels feel that they have been unfairly treated

in any way, we shall appreciate it if a full report is made to our Secretary at Sydney for investigation. Cape Breton Tourist Association.

RATES RATES No. of No. of Hotel Proprietor Hotel Proprietor Rooms Rooms Per Per Week Per Week Day Day Per

ARiCHAT SYDNEY MINES American Louise Babin 10 53.00 On application St. James James Peck 16 $3.50 $18.00 Commercial D. F. Cutter 7 3.00 TROUT RIVER BADDECK (Lake Ainslee) application Hotel Baddeck F. F. Fraser. .... 20 3.00 $18.00 Mac Lean's Mrs. Y. MacLean. . 2.50 up On

New Bras d'Or House J . K. MacKenzie 35 3.00 18.00 WHYCOCOMAGH .... G. Dunlop 37 3.00 18.00 Bay View, with Cot BIG POND tages J. A. Gillis 30 3.00 up 17.00 Morrison's Hotel A. D. Morrison 12 2.50 On application Ross House M. H. Ross 20 2.50 up 14.00 up CHETICAMP Village Inn D.J. Ross 15 2.50 14.00 up Royal T. Doucette... 15 2.50 On application Hillcrest C. T. Green 24 2.00up 14.00 Burns' House Mrs. B. Burns. 10 2.50 Green House C. Green 15 2.00 up 14.00 up GRAND ANSE Hiawatha Florence Edwards. 15 2.00 up On application 3.00 MacPheison Hotel. . . Mrs. M. MacPherson. 12 2.50 10.00 Austen House D. Clair Austen. . . 15 GRAND NARROWS Grand Narrows Hotel E. R. McNeil 15 3.00 16.00 INVERNESS Grand Central A. Maclnnes 20 3.00 On application NOTE—At St. Ann's. Ingonish and Cape North there are a number of com- Inverness L. MacNeil . 12 2.50 10.00 LITTLE BRAS D'OR fortable Inns. For information write or apply to Cape Breton Tourist Association 12.00 Lake View Hou^ . R. MacKay 8 2.00 Headquarters, Sydney, N.S.

Boarding House . Mrs. Mackay Dick. . 6 8.00 LOUISBOURG

Crowdis House. . . J. Crowdis 15 2.50 On application

Boarding House . . B. Hickman 2.50

Boarding House. . Mrs. T. Townsend. 2.50 MABOU

Cameron House . . Mrs. J. D. Cameron. 16 2.50 10.50 MARGAREE FORKS

Riverview Inn. . . . A. A. McDonald 25 3.50 20.00 Ohiasson's J. Chiasson 15 2.50 On application MIDDLE RIVER

Singing Kettle. . . . F. Macdonald. 7 2.50 up Riverside Inn T. Macdonald 15 2.50 MIDDLE RIVER (Lo wer)

Maelvor's D. Maclvor . . 10 2.50 MIRA FERRY Burke Hotel W.S.Spain 12 2.50 N. E. MARGAREE

Ingraham Farm . C. H. Ingraham 12 2.50 up On application Ross's J. J. Ross 20 3.00

Smith's Mariner Smith . . 15 3.00

McLeod's Mai. McLeod. . . 15 3.00 NORTH SYDNEY Albert Mrs. C. R. Harrington 30 2.50 up Belmont Fred. Cleary 30 3.00

Queen I . Green 30 15.00 Grant's T.J. Grant 17 2.50'up 15.00 NYANZA MacLeod's J. MacLeod. 10 2.50 12.00 ORANGEDALE A.

Commercial A. Maclntyre . 12 2.50 14.00 POINT TUPPER

Langley's Hotel . PORT HAWKES- BURY

Farquhai House . . Miss M. Mclvor. 1G 3.00 RIVER DENYS

Boarding House . John Maclnnes. 2.50 ST. PETER'S

Radio J. S. Nickerson. . 17 2.50 14.00 Mac Donald's A. S. MacDonald 8 3.00 14.00 SYDNEY Isle Royale Can. Assn. Hotels. Ltd 74 2 to 5 European Norfolk T. MacKinnon 40 4.00 up Randolph I). M. Gillis 30 2 to 3 European Paul's Paul Landiy 25 1.50 European THE ISLE ROYALE, SYDNEY < fraud N. Lipton 33 2.75 17.50 Minto Jos. Coady 25 1.50 European Cape Breton's new, modern and up-to-date hostelry. Over- Vidal W. Hutohins 25 3.00 UP

Cecil Mrs. J. Richardson. . . 15 1.50 looking one of the finest land and seascapes in the country. Victoria S. (ireen 28 3.00 15.00 Under management the Canadian Associated Hotels, Limited. Savoy .1. H. Cruiekshanks . . 10 2.50 of Watson's Mrs. Neil Watson 7 2.50 On application European Plan.

50 THIS TEAR Visit Cape Breton Island NOVA SCOTIA

One of the Greatest Scenic Regions of ]\[orth America

NO ADEQUATE description of this beautiful Island which has had four stirring centuries of history has ever been written. In its fashioning, Nature seems to have exhausted all her gifts. The panoramas of hills and cliffs and wide blue waters are as breathlessly lovely as one will find the world over. Nowhere else in the world are water and sky and distant hills so brilliantly and unforgettably blue.

C[ You must see the tranquil loveliness of the great inland sea, known as the Bras cTOr Lakes, with its 450 square miles of cruising waters; the graceful wooded headland of the West Shore; the appealing beauty of Baddeck and the Margarees; the ancient splendour of Louisbourg and the magnificent mountain ranges of the North Country.

C[ The Editor of the National Geographic Magazine is authority for the statement that some of the principal beauty spots on earth are in Cape Breton Island. All who know that delectable land cordially agree with him.

c-^5 er+o c+o DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES HALIFAX

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i B i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 j 1 M n n ^ . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 a 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n n n n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 m nn M n 1 n ; j n ,

To all Visitors to Cape Breton :

We recommend you to any hotel, garage, or filling station, carrying the "approval" sign of the Cape Breton Tourist Association. We will appreciate your patronizing these services and filing any complaints you may have to make with our Secretary at Sydney.

Cape Breton Tourist Association.