The RIVER TAMAR from GUNNISLAKE STATION

The RIVER TAMAR from GUNNISLAKE STATION Once again we met at Gunnislake Station for a walk in the Tamar Valley which today focused on two different periods in time, both of which occurred before the railway even reached this area. The weather this morning was overcast but mild so it was ideal for walking and Maggie had even given us a bit longer than usual so everybody could enjoy the scenery and not rush past like last time. So, with Rosy by my side and everyone else following close behind, we left the station around 10am and wound our way up along quiet paths towards the hamlet of Delaware. Safely across the main road into Delaware Road, a short walk led to Delaware Farm where we turned right to follow a footpath and from here to the river we walked along what many believe was once the medieval packhorse route linking Tavistock with Launceston, the ancient capital of Cornwall. This was by far the most practical way to transport goods right through the dark ages and the medieval period when there were very few roads in the countryside. At that time Britain relied on these meandering trails and lanes to send and receive goods and the sure-footed mules, oxen and horses would carry immense loads balanced on their backs. Grain, fodder, fleeces, cloth and other agricultural products were carried between market towns on the backs of a string of animals often escorted by just one or two men. Later, to save the animals having to wade through the water, three local stone bridges were erected to span the River Tamar, all were to the same design, they were New Bridge at Gunnislake and Horsebridge and Greystone Bridge further upstream. Each one was built with low walls, possibly so that the paniers and loads didn’t get caught up when the animals were being led across. Along the first footpath we all filed downhill beside its narrow leat, in this pic those at the front are waiting for everyone to climb over the stile about half way down. We found it impossible to pass this building near the bottom of the path without stopping to admire its granite door and window-frames and its leaded glass windows. This then is the former Body’s Court which dates to the early 17th century making it one of the oldest properties in the area. From here we continued downhill through Higher, Middle and Lower Dimson, until we reached the next footpath which is rather rocky in places, but time was on our side and every one of us made it without incident to the steps leading onto the Discovery Trail. At New Bridge we crossed the road to continue walking alongside the river when some of us spotted Chimney Rock towering over the treetops on the Devon side of the water and later the roaring water pouring over the ancient weir, while on this side there were still a few reminders of the past to be seen when a triple limekiln and various other stone walls were glimpsed beneath years of growth. In the 19th century the river was an important feature of the economic development of the settlement of Gunnislake. This was a time when all over Britain the rivers were the motorways of their day for transporting goods, and the Tamar was no exception with wharves and quays right along the Cornish side where our walk continued. In 1808 a half mile stretch of canal was cut to by-pass the fish weir at Weir Head and allow commercial shipping to navigate between tidal and non-tidal stretches as you can see in the photo above. The canal was used principally to transport goods to the area such as coal and timber for the mines plus manure, building sand, and lime for other businesses. Exported goods included the granite and copper ore mined nearby, the latter being sent to be smelted at Swansea in Wales. Some of us went closer to look at the Lock-Keeper’s cottage which stands on the small island formed between the canal and the river. It was a lovely relaxing stroll on this early Autumnal morning with the fast-flowing river carrying some early fallen leaves downstream, who knows where they will end up? The entire river front from here almost as far as New Bridge became industrialised as Gunnislake continued to prosper. Those tall chimneys in the picture above belonged to the kilns at Bealswood Brickworks, one of several sites owned by Thomas Westlake in the 19th century. Other businesses were set up such as the town’s Gas Works which opened in 1872 while a former paper mill later became a rather smelly Bone-Crushing Mill for making fertiliser. All were conveniently positioned close to the river making the loading onto barges a simple matter, some are gone for ever but a few hidden ruins still stand, however as we saw earlier, it is easy to stride past and not even notice them. Finally, with the scenic part of our walk almost over, we reached Netstakes and left the Discovery Trail to walk up a fairly steep hill with the need to change into a lower gear coming as a bit of a shock to the body! Turning into Calstock Road the climb became more gradual and as time was still on our side, we took it at a leisurely pace. This building we pass near the hamlet of Hatches Green is the Rising Sun Inn which just like Body’s Court, dates to the 17th century. Today a few people even walked back up the long hill to the station from Gunnislake village, but the majority of us took the easy option and waited for the bus. .

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