INSIDE

WEEKWEEEKK OFOF JULYJULY 13-19,133-1919, 2017200177 www.FloridaWeekly.comwwwwww.FloridaWeee kly.coom Vol. 2, No. 15 • FREE

Cuisine Santiago’s Bodega brings Mel Fisher: Spain to . A16  Key West’s legendary treasure hunter

Music Jeep Caillouet’s Long Road to Key West. A6 

BY LAURA HACKWORTH Weekly Correspondent

Indiana Jones. Lara Croft. Jim Hawkins. Jack Sparrow. The allure of the lifestyle is ever- present in literature and film; the familiar tale of the rogue explorer always searching for an historical relic or a treasure buried deep in some remote location inspires children of all ages (and some adults) to draw their own trea- sure maps and lead their own expeditions to where X marks the spot. Given its position in the middle of the ocean, Key West has always been asso- Top Picks ciated with the piratical Exciting things to try this week in our calendar.  SEE MEL, A10  A9

Mel Fisher handprints at PParticipantsii at the h party enjoy j a llocal l event. the Schooner Wharf Bar. NICK DOLL / COURTESY PHOTO NICK DOLL / COURTESY

The Nuestra Señora de Atocha

BY MAXINE LOPEZ-KEOUGH ald, each gold bar, each bronze cannon Florida Weekly Correspondent needed first to be recorded in a ledger, after which it was carefully loaded by a They were four weeks behind sched- crew of more than 100 sailors and slaves ule. For months, a procession of mules into the bowels of the mahogany-hulled had been arriving at the Veracruz docks, vessel that sat dockside. winding their way through the haze of At the same time, all manner of unre- a humid tropical summer, laden with a corded booty — jewelry, currency, art, all bank’s worth of treasure bound for Spain. smuggled aboard to avoid taxation — was Real Estate Each piece of silver, each flawless emer- Cottage just a stroll away from FLA-KEYS / COURTESY PHOTO SEE PRIZE, A12  The Spanish galleon Nuestra Senora de Atocha. popular places. A18 

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Visit us online at www.FloridaWeekly.com A2 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST OFF OFF DUVAL

Editor & Publisher Owen Killian An insider’s look at Key West [email protected] The most traveled and visible street little signage and inside feels like a world Key West night. in Key West is only the beginning, the away. The nautical-themed bar is warm ■ Better than Sex 926 Simonton St. surface, of what the town has to offer. and homey. Small and large plates include Account Executive 305-296-8102; www.betterthansexkeywest. Ask the locals about their favorite spots, items such as roasted bone marrow and com. A great place for couples. Swing by Hannah Mein stroll through quiet neighborhoods or yellowtail snapper. Knowledgeable bar- [email protected] this dessert only, adults only restaurant down alleyways off Duval Street and you’ll tenders mix up craft cocktails such as late in the evening. Indulge your senses Presentation Editor begin to dive deeper into the quieter, more Curse Like a Saler with gin, dolin blanc, with chocolate-dipped wine glasses and Eric Raddatz diverse and less readily apparent offerings. agave, basil, mint and grapefruit. Brilliant! cheeky homemade desserts and beverages [email protected] Here are eight spots that you might not see ■ Cornish Memorial African Meth- such as an Ephemere Apple Spiced Ale in at first glance. odist Episcopal Zion Church 702 White- a tall beer glass with a signature caramel Reporters ■ The Café 509 Southard St. 305-296- head St. Established in 1864 by former rim-job. Lick it good. Maxine Lopez-Keough 5515; www.thecafekw.com. This cozy, inno- slave Sandy Cornish and his wife, Lillah. ■ Deuces “Off the Hook” Grill 728 Laura Hackworth vative restaurant has been redefining veg- The current building was built in 1894. Simonton St. 305-414-8428; www.offthe- Bucky Montgomery etarian cuisine for over 13 years. With a ■ The Reverend Long organized the hookkeywest.com. Tucked into a quiet warm Bohemian décor that includes local Bethel A.M.E Church in 1870 at 712 neighborhood, Off the Hook serves break- Graphic Designers art adorning the walls, the menu offers a Chris Andruskiewicz Duval St. It was destroyed by a fire in fast and lunch, but the creative and well- variety of options to suit all tastes along 1922 and the congregation then moved to executed dinner menu featuring fresh sea- Hannah Kruse with craft beers, organic wines and an Alisa Bowman the corner of Thomas Street and Truman food is especially enticing. Grouper in a array of sangria flavors plus fresh juices, Avenue. The building features masonry French bouillabaisse broth, Fish and Chips Paul Heinrich flavored house-made tonics or cafe kom- Scott Sleeper walls, twin towers in front and pointed- featuring mahi-mahi, and slow roasted bucha on tap. Omnivores will appreciate arch windows reminiscent of the Gothic Jamaican jerk chicken thighs are recom- Circulation Manager seafood dishes such as blackened mahi revival style. mended along with dark chocolate cov- Robin Falkner mahi and PEI mussels. The famous veggie ered banana bread for dessert. The Duck burger is not to be missed along with the ■ Key West Island Bookstore 513 [email protected] Fleming St. 305-294-2904; www.Keywes- BLT pizza is also delicious. It’s a small falafel, house-made spring rolls, quinoa space so reservations are recommended. Business Office Manager and avocado salad, stir-fries or fresh fish tislandbooks.com. This decades-old bou- Kelli Carico chimichurri tacos. Finish with vegan key tique bookstore offers a surprisingly varied ■ La Rubia Fine Hats 510 Fleming lime cheesecake or the vegan carrot cake. wealth of current and used titles, from St. 305-296-6059; www.larubiakeywest. Everything is made from scratch, so be best sellers to rare titles. Often open late, com. The Florida Keys’ only importer sure to check out the nightly specials. it’s an inviting place to browse among the of authentic Panama hats. The owners The Cafe also has an extensive weekend crowded stacks. developed this boutique to carry on the Published by centuries-old tradition of hand weaving Florida Media Group LLC brunch menu with bottomless mimosas. ■ Cuban Coffee Queen 284 Margaret hats, which come from Ecuador and not 100 Grinnell Street Grab a comfy colorful seat in front of the St. 305-292-4747; www.cubancoffeequeen. Key West, FL 33040 window or opt for takeout. They deliver. com. The strong Cuban coffee at this hole Panama by the way. There are styles for men and women in a wide array of colors Phone: 305.363.1310 ■ in the wall is also rich in Key West heri- 2 Cents Restaurant & Pub 416 Apple- and weaves. They also offer a nice selec- www.FloridaWeekly.com routh Lane, 305-414-8626; www.2centskw. tage. A Café Con Leche paired with a clas- sic Cuban sandwich or some Havana rice tion of wearable, fair trade crafts such as com. is right behind Leather Master and jewelry, ikat wraps and shigra. ■ just off Duval, but it’s hard to find with and beans will keep you going long into a Copyright: The contents of the Florida Weekly are copyright 2016 by Florida Media Group, LLC. No portion may be reproduced without the express written consent of Florida Media Group, LLC. Bands DJs L L Brunch Brunch Special Saturday & Sunday 2 for 1 Mimosas 10am-3pm

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Getting around Key West

1. Southernmost Point local artisans, food carts, palmists and 8. Mel Fisher Maritime Museum 305-294-2116 The corner of South Street and psychics. 200 Greene St., Key West www.Audubonhouse.com Whitehead Street 305-294-2633 Original lithographs by John James www.southernmostpointwebcam.com 5. Truman Little White House www.melfisher.org Audubon are on display the former home The city of Key West erected this now 111 Front St. Exhibits include treasures from the of shipwreck salvager Captain John Geiger. famous concrete buoy in 1983 to denote www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.com Spanish galleons of 1622 discovered by the southernmost point in the continen- The Little White House adds a presi- Mel Fisher and his crew. 12. Key West City Cemetery tial United States. dential luster to the Conch Republic. Orig- Bordered by Angela, Frances, Olivia inally built for Naval officers in 1890 and 9. Mile Marker 0 Sign Streets and Windsor Lane 2. Conch Tour Train used as a command headquarters in three 490 Whitehead St., corner of Fleming 305-292-6718 303 Front St., Key West wars, the Little White House later served Street www.Friendsofthekeywestcemetary. 305-294-5161 or 888-916-8687 as lodging for President Harry S. Truman’s U.S. 1 begins here in Key West, contin- com www.conchtourtrain.com winter retreats from 1946 to 1952. ues 2,369 miles north up the East Coast, Stop by the sexton’s office near the The Conch Train has been winding and ends in Fort Kent, Maine. Stop here entrance at Passover Lane and Windsor its way through the streets of Key West 6. The Ernest Hemingway to commemorate your visit to Key West Lane for a map containing a free walking since 1958. Home & Museum with a photo next to the iconic Mile tour. 907 Whitehead St., Key West Marker 0 sign. 3. Sloppy Joe’s 305-294-1136 13. Fort Zachary Taylor 201 Duval St. www.hemingwayhome.com 10. Key West Express Ferry State Park and Beach 305-294-5717 Take the tour and say hello to one of Terminal Located at the ocean end of Southard www.sloppyjoes.com the 40 to 50 six-toed cats, all descendants 100 Grinnell Street Street and bordering the Naval Reserva- The historic bar has been a Key West of Hemingway’s cat, Snowball. 239-463-5733 tion. tradition since it opened in 1933. Its most www.Keywestexpress.net 305-295-0037 famous patrons were Ernest Hemming- 7. The Key West Butterfly Traveling via the Express is truly the www.Fortzacharytaylor.com way and the rum runner Habana Joe. & Nature Conservatory best way to get between Key West, Fort “Fort Zach” is known to locals and 1316 Duval St., Key West Myers Beach or Marco Island. You’ll tourists alike as one of Key West’s best 4. Mallory Square Sunset 305-296-2988 or 800-839-4647 enjoy air-conditioned interiors, exteri- beaches. In addition to the expansive Celebration www.keywestbutterfly.com or sun decks, couches, tables and even beach, there are nature trails, bike paths, 1 Whitehead St., Key West More than 50 different butterfly spe- reclining airline-style seating. There’s a and Historic Fort Zachary Taylor all with- 786-565-7448 cies from around the world and 20 dif- full-service galley, full-service bar and in a 54-acre park with picnic tables and www.sunsetcelebration.org ferent exotic bird species coexist in this flat-screen TVs with satellite television. grills. Experience the beautiful view of This nightly festival begins at the climate-controlled, glass-enclosed habitat the Atlantic Ocean and the Key West water’s edge about and hour or two before that includes waterfalls, flowering plants 11. Audubon House and Garden Shipping Channel. ■ sunset and includes street performers, and trees. 205 Whitehead Street FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A5 Its namesake never saw it, but Audubon House still worth a look

BY MAXINE LOPEZ-KEOUGH For Capt. John Huling Gei- Audubon work. The three-sto- Florida Weekly Correspondent ger, a maritime pilot whose ry home is filled with precious shipwrecking success had antiquities and, of course, with It’s midway through the tour of Key made him one of the richest Audubon’s work, as well as infor- West’s stunningly pretty Audubon House men in the Florida Keys, such mation about the artist’s life and and Tropical Gardens that the truth wealth demanded a home of career. An acre of lush tropi- comes out: John James Audubon — famed appropriate grandeur. In 1846, cal gardens surrounds the home, naturalist painter, whose lifelike paint- after the rest of the ilsand was featuring hundreds of orchids, ings of bird portraits line the walls of the mostly flattened in a hurricane, a koi pond and a replica of the museum — never actually lived in the Capt. Geiger chose a prominent property’s original 1850s outdoor Audubon House. But don’t let this spoiler lot on which to build his family’s kitchen building. keep you from visiting; indeed, a visit to new home — a lavish Ameri- Visitors are encouraged to the Audubon House offers so much beau- can Classic Revival mansion of wind their way through the quiet ty, charm and historical interest, you’ll be tropical wood at the intersec- brick pathways, taking note of left feeling only that it was Audubon’s loss tion of Green and Whitehead the rare tropical plants (care- that he was never able to inhabit such a streets, with an unobstructed fully labeled for those without magical place. view of the ocean (and any new extensive botanical knowledge) Amassing a fortune from treasure gath- potential shipwrecks). It was a COURTESY PHOTO and view the medicinal and herb ered from the ruins of shipwrecks might grand, busy estate encompass- garden, a staple of 19th-century seem like a job description for a story- ing 6 acres, home to Capt. Geiger, his where the Geiger family mansion would upscale homes. Though the museum and book pirate, but in 19th-century Key West, wife, his children, and a number of slaves later be constructed. its grounds are located in the bustling it was a lucrative and respectable way to who, in addition to domestic chores, were The Wolfsons began a two-year pro- downtown district, once inside the pro- make a living. The busy passage between made to assist in the wrecking business cess of painstaking renovation, the first tective foliage of the grounds, the sights the Eastern Seaboard and the Gulf Coast that fueled Geiger’s wealth. historical renovation of its kind in Key and sounds of the outside world are muf- was a dangerous place for ships to sail, For over a century, Capt. Geiger’s home West, at the end of which marked the fled. Visitors are transported back in time and each year saw many boats wrecked remained in the family’s possession, until rechristening of the Geiger home as the to an island without tour buses or T-shirt on offshore reefs during the frequent Capt. Geiger’s great-grandson, Capt. Wil- Audubon House Museum. They filled shops, where fame and fortune awaited storms that pummeled the area. liam Bradford Smith, took up residence. the house with antiques, including many any man brave enough to watch the sea “Finders keepers” might not mean Smith, a Key West Harbor pilot, lived items from the Geiger family, as well for a wrecked ship, and beat his fellow much today, but for those in the wrecking in hermit-like seclusion without indoor as numerous original hand-colored litho- wreckers to the prize. ■ industry of Key West, it was law. When a plumbing, electricity or cooking facilities, graphs by Audubon. ship ran aground, the first man to reach and by the time of his death in 1956, the Today, Key West is known for having the boat became the “wreck master,” who house had fallen into ruin. one of the most colorful and well-protect- — after saving the crew and passengers, Slated for demolition, it was saved in ed historical districts in the United States, if possible — directed the salvaging of 1958 by Mitchell and Frances Wolfson, with the highest density of historic frame the ship and its cargo. Back on land, the who were compelled to purchase the buildings in the nation. Yet few who visit The Audubon House recovered haul was auctioned off, with property after hearing it was destined to know that it was the Wolfsons’ renovation >> Location: 205 Whitehead St. the wreck master taking the largest cut become a gas station. The Wolfsons had of the Audubon House that began this >> Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. of the profits. It was a dangerous, highly heard the same folklore that speculated now-priceless movement to protect and >> Tickets: The museum offers discounted competitive and regulated industry, the James Audubon might have conceived preserve the island’s oldest architecture. museum tickets to locals. spoils of which helped solidify Key West many of his bird portraits during a visit To this day, the property is cared for >> Contact: For more information, call 305- as the richest city in the country by the to the gardens of Dr. Benjamin Strobel, through the Mitchell Wolfson Trust, and 294-2116 or visit www.audubonhouse.com. mid-1800s. whose home was located on the property remains a reputable dealer of original

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!BOUJDBTBSUPSJBBNFSJDB"OUJDB4BSUPSJBDPN A6 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST MUSIC SCENE Jeep Caillouet’s long road to Key West BY BUCKY MONTGOMERY ing lot behind the Bull (no parking Florida Weekly Correspondent attendants back then) and began playing banjo at Foley’s Square (where Rum- “I was born in Arkansas, raised in runners/Coyote Ugly/Teasers has since Tennessee and fell in love with a Cajun occupied), for two years, while enter- Queen in New Orleans,” Jeep Caillouet taining tourists on Mallory Square as a says, introducing his life’s story. “I had white-faced clown with his dog, Bucks- two brothers. My daddy was a construc- nort, who collected his money for him. tion worker, he worked on the dam. “I started this routine,” he said, finding He had 13 deerhounds. My mommy — a groove that worked for him. “I wanted whipped my ass.” to wear a T-shirt and shorts every day, Listening to the anecdotes and tales but not sweat. So, for the past 22 years, of Jeep’s life is the subject of book mate- I’d play Mallory Square through the win- rial. What you believe will be a 20-min- ter, then I’d leave and go on tour, Mem- ute conversation can easily turn into phis in the spring, Aspen in the summer, two hours in the blink of an eye. Jackson Hole in the fall, and anywhere in “I went to school just north of New between. I was a full-time tourist.” Orleans. Mom would drive me to school, Through the years he’s entertained as but as soon as her car was gone, I’d a white-faced clown, playing his banjo, hitchhike to New Orleans. The bus was doing a puppet show from his hand- a dime and a nickel. I’d spend my days made jukebox and almost always with on Bourbon Street. Then I’d take the bus his beloved dogs, who have always been as far back as it went and hitchhike my a part of his act, from collecting tips way back to school just as mom came to from his audience and dropping it into pick me up.” Did he miss much by not his tip bucket, to walking a high wire. attending? Possibly. “But I can conjugate He retells their names with a sentimen- a verb in 36 tenses.” tal look in his eye: Bucksnort (the first), Jeep ended up attending Pearl River Mo (Mo’ Money), Cleo and his newest Junior College in Poplarville, Miss., sidekick, Lottie Mo (Lottie Mo’ Money). where he majored in art. He still embraces the creative soul of an artist in the truest sense of the word, from building campsites with waterfalls, to half-car-half-house conch cruisers with custom paint jobs, to a puppet show stage he calls the “jukebox” with special effects such as a sound system and a fog machine.

So, at 7 a.m. the next three days, nothing but morning, Jeep hitchhiked his banjo, a bedroll and to New Orleans and set a suitcase. After nearly up on the 700 block of succumbing to the ele- Bourbon Street with his ments, he was picked banjo. “I had a cowboy up by a trucker. “I said, hat back then. My plan ‘please can I have some was to play a song and water.’ And the guy said then pass my hat. I had ‘all I have is a Coke’. I had left my banjo case open two of them.” back by the wall, and Soon Jeep found him- while I was playing, I self traveling and busk- noticed that people kept ing for 16 years all over dropping money in the the western United case. So, I slowly start- States: New Mexico, ed scooting back. I dis- Boulder, Aspen (where he remained In the meantime, Jeep also mastered covered then that, after based out of an elaborate campsite that the art of sailing, and competes in all all the expenses, and he built over the years), Jackson Hole, the local sailing races, including the dividing the money up Seattle, Portland, Santa Cruz, and more. annual Wreckers Race out to the reef between four guys in Each winter he had to break down and back, put on by Schooner Wharf. a band, I could make a camp before traveling, due to the 16-foot “I’ve won first place and third place,” he lot more money play- winter snows and 60 mph winds, then said proudly. “But my race is the Around ing alone. I made more rebuild everything each spring. the Island Race.” money in the first set on “I’d put down a new layer of carpet It’s impossible to put the life of some- Jeep, by the way, is not his real name. the street in New Orleans than I ever over the last ones each year. When we one so colorful and creative as Jeep “I didn’t care for my real name,” he said, did in a bar.” left the final time, it was 16 layers thick.” Caillouet in such a small space. So, I’ll so he took the name of the little magical Then, one day, Jeep thought, “I’ve While living in Aspen, Jeep became a just let him sum up: creature from the Popeye cartoons as a never been out West.” He packed up father to daughter Wendi Michelle, now “I just decided when I was young that stage name. “When I went to Memphis, everything he owned and $250, “includ- 27 and a manager at a Boca Raton West I wanted to play an instrument, and not we were called Jeep and the Jeepsters. ing a Winchester .223 varmint gun Marine. a guitar because everyone was doing We played seven nights a week, and wrapped in a blanket that I took on the “I ended back in New Orleans, and that. So, I rented my first banjo for $10. won the Mid-South Battle of the Bands city bus,” and went as far as he could go, my friend, Smeglie, told me about Key I had no clue how to play, so I practiced out of 50 bands in five states. One of to Houston, where, “I knew a guy, right West, and that you could make a living a lot,” he said. “I play out on Mallory the prizes was some recording time. In off the interstate.” He began the life as playing here. I had a Coupe DeVille with Square now but only when I want to. I Memphis, you had to be somebody and a nomadic musician, soon heading to a house built on the back — the ‘Jeepil- don’t have to worry about a PA, hauling have followers. You had to know people, Austin. lac’ I called it — it won Conch Cruiser equipment, or traveling around. I don’t like Elvis or the ‘Memphis Mafia.’ A “I had no direction to go. Nowhere of the Month in Mangrove Magazine have to please anyone anymore except buddy coming up, a harmonica player, to go. No work. It was hard to get used — and so in 1986, I came down. When I my audience.” introduced me to Dave Banjoseed who to.” He ended up in Kerrville Texas, the arrived and looked around, I said, ‘you Catch this colorful Key West icon said we should go play the streets of last town on the edge of the desert, no mean I can do this every day?’” whenever you can, on Mallory Square at New Orleans.” water and only desert ahead of him for Jeep parked his Jeepillac in the park- the nightly sunset celebration. ■ FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A7 BARTENDER OF THE WEEK The 200 block according to Joanne

BY BUCKY MONTGOMERY has collected within the last week, and ■ I’m trying to keep him they’ve been edited out Florida Weekly Correspondent keep in mind, these are all real: out of my girlfriend’s by my editor due to space ■ When you drop me off on my behind. restrictions. Joanne Bachman takes advantage of a porch, make sure you spray me with ■ They were making Besides her “Barfly seemingly insurmountable nightly chaos bug spray. out, and it was Quotes,” Ms. Bachman is with grace, humor and a grain of salt. ■ The crotch has lost structural awkward. So, we just also known for her laugh, She’s always professional and efficient, integrity. started making out to an explosive, “HA!” you moving with a speed rarely seen behind ■ We were talking about the time we pass the time. can hear as far away as the the bar anymore. She “womans” the popu- put lines on the Roomba and tried ■ It’s one, two, three, Hemingway House. lar Tree Bar at the front of the Rick’s and to chase it around. shoot! Where are you For those who love and Durty Harry’s Entertainment Complex ■ There are two cornrows places from? Canada? admire her, it is an endear- three nights a week from 7 p.m. till 4 a.m. now! Turf war!! ■ I’m 30. That’s the first ing quality you never get Tree Bar is one of the only bars along ■ One Bud Light, no drama. time I’ve said that out sick of hearing. the busy 200 block of Duval Street to ■ No matter how cute rompers are, loud. Ms. Bachman was born actually stay open most nights to the you know they’ve been on the ■ I’m asking your outside of Philly, one of legal closing time, witnessing the insan- bathroom floor at Ricks. name because I have five brothers and sisters, ity that is Key West, while entertaining ■ I would like to keep Hepatitis C out astigmatism. and raised in Havertown, a slew of tourists and locals who habitu- of me. ■ I’ve come twice since I’ve been where she went to high school until ally surround her bar. ■ You can order tapeworms off of here. I love being berated by older moving to south Jersey. In the meantime, bouncers are haul- Amazon. women. She attended some community col- ing brawlers out to the street, people ■ Why are you going to wear a dog ■ From the look on your face I can lege, and moved down here to Key West are walking around nearly naked, young and get mad when people talk to see there is a language barrier. with her (ex)husband for a year, and couples are screaming at one another you? ■ I just lost my virgin. although the marriage didn’t last, “I and hotrods are ripping up and down ■ I think your knee humped my penis. ■ Why are you just standing there like decided that I loved it here,” she said. Duval Street, all of this going on within ■ He got the country, but you got Key a gummy bear? “I worked for the Pirate Soul Museum feet of where she is working. West. ■ You could save yourself 20 minutes for a year,” she said, (which has since “My work is my entertainment. I talk ■ Well, once I’m married it will be by switching to Irish goodbyes. moved to St. Augustine), and for two to people. I watch people,” Ms. Bach- different. But tonight, the three of ■ It sounded like they were having years at Bagatelle, “and I’ve been here at man says. us can go back to my place. sex on roller skates. Rick’s now for eight years.” What else does she do? She collects ■ That’s the first time a bartender has ■ My nose is big but I’m not telling When she’s not working, she’s some- hilarious quotes from her guests to post ever recommended I get a rim job. lies. what of a self-proclaimed hermit, con- online for the rest of us to read. ■ I have to go to the bathroom to ■ Have you seen her hands? She could tent to stay at home and read with her You’d think that there would be a limit wake up. give a happy ending to a rhinoceros. two Yorkies, Gizmo and Raleigh. to the amount of absurdity, obscenity ■ My Siri won’t understand you ■ You couldn’t get a cigarette wrapper What she likes most about living and and comedy she listens to every night, because you don’t have an between my butt cheeks. working in Key West is, “the weather, but after eight years, the quality has not Australian accent. Maybe because I hang at bars (and the water and the people.” diminished. ■ What’s my plan for the night? I have been quoted there myself) I could Stop by Tree Bar on Mondays, Tues- There are literally thousands of these, plan on drinking until I feel like read a book of these nonstop. days and Thursdays from 7 p.m. till but here is a small sampling of what she stopping. If you see less than 200 quotes listed, close and say hi to JoJo. ■

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MASSAGE NATURAL BODY TREATMENTS STAYFITSTUDIOKEYWEST.COM NATURAL SKINCARE FULL SERVICE AVEDA SALON NATURAL NAILS ACUPUNCTURE 305-294-0693 8IJUF4USFFUt,FZ8FTU '- A8 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST CALENDAR OF EVENTS SPECIAL EVENTS CINEMA Mel Fisher Days Tropic July 13 to 15 Cinema Schedule available at melfisherdays. 416 Eaton St. melfisher.com www.tropiccin- ema.com Summer Stage Play Reading: Check the web- Penang by James Larocca Green Parrot Bar site for ongoing July 17, 8 p.m. 601 Whitehead St. films The Key West Theater Live Music Nightly Little Room Jazz Club 512 Eaton St. Check the schedule at 821 Duval St. Tickets available at www.greenparrot.com Live Jazz Nightly LGBT www.thekeywesttheater.com Check the schedule at www.Littleroomjazzclub.com Summerish Fun Movie Series: Austin Powers Mary Ellen’s July 19, 8 p.m. 420 Appelrouth Lane The Key West Theater Trivia, Tuesday Nights, 6:30 512 Eaton St. Cowboy Mark’s 45’s and Golden Oldies Tickets available at Thursday nights at 8 p.m. www.thekeywesttheater.com PHOTOGRAPHY Smoking Tuna Aqua Nightclub 4 Charles St. 711 Duval St. Live Music Nightly Aqua Idol for the Florida Keys SPCA Check the schedule at Tuesdays, 6:30 www.smokingtunasaloon.com Drag Shows Nightly, 7 and 9 p.m. Karaoke Monday through Thursday, 11 p.m. www.Aquakeywest.com

One Flew Over Photographs from the the Cuckoo’s Nest permanent collection July 13, 14, 15, 16 and 19, 8 p.m. Ongoing The Red Barn Theatre Sloppy Joes Key West Art and Historical Society 319 Duval St., rear 201 Duval St. Custom House Tickets available at Live Music Nightly 281 Front St. www.redbarntheatre.com Check the schedule at www.Kwahs.org www.sloppyjoes.com COMEDY Irish Kevin’s Comedy Open Mike Night 211 Duval St. Live Music Nightly Mondays, 9 p.m. Check the schedule at Mary Ellen’s Bar and Restaurant www.irishkevins.com 420 Appelrouth Lane Thursday Night Comedy Show Thursday, 7:30 to 10 p.m. Bobby’s Monkey Bar The Blue Room 900 Simonton St. 1128 Simonton St. Karaoke-Nightly except Wednesdays, Tickets available at 9:30 p.m. www.comedykeywest.com Homegrown Bobby’s Monkey Bar on Facebook Photographs by Michael Marrero MUSIC Ongoing Bourbon St. Pub Lazy Gecko Gallery on Greene 724 Duval St. Rocky Bottom-Wednesdays 203 Duval St. 606 Greene St. The Porch 8 to 10 p.m. Live Music Nightly www.galleryongreene.com 429 Caroline St. The Men of Bourbon-Nightly Check the schedule at Check the schedule at www.BourbonSt.pub.com www.Theporchkw.com www.thelazygecko.com

AMSTERDAM’S Curry Mansion Inn A Historic Bed & Breakfast with a daily cocktail party and a nightly happy hour. COMEDYCOMEDY KEYKEY WESTWEST Located half a block from Duval Street with renowned restaurants, legendary bars, live music, theater and shopping. Key West’s only weekly @ THE BOTTLECAP’S BLUE ROOM stand up comedy show at the 1128 SIMONTON STREET Self-Guided Tours Daily 8:30AM to 5:00PM southernmost comedy venue EVERY THURSDAY (Adults: $5.00 donation, Children under 12 are free. $OOSURFHHGVEHQHÀWWKH)ORULGD.H\V63&$ in the US with the best DDQUĝDO>ĝľZĝúO=ĝĝþĝĝU&DjĝľZĝúÿõòO= House tours available for non guests stand up comics from all over 28 Unique Rooms To Choose From ğóòĝ)>ĝľiľ> ĝĖĝğó÷ĝľZĝZ&ĝDDQ All Inclusive Price With Room & Breakfast the world, from rising stars to &$52/,1(67‡.(<:(67 household names. WWW.COMEDYKEYWEST.COM (305) 294-5349 www.currymansion.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A9 KEY WEST CALENDAR OF EVENTS

■ Two young Americans in Vietnam #KW find safety and solace in each other. Summer Stage Play Reading: Penang by James Larocca, July 17, 8 p.m., The 801 Bourbon Bar Key West Theater, 512 801 Duval St. Eaton St. Drag Shows-Nightly, 9 and 11 p.m. Happy Hour Drag-5 p.m. Saturdays — www.thekeywesttheater.com

Drag Karaoke-4 p.m. Sundays 7.13-15 Messy Mondays with Mulysa-1 a.m. Mondays Fierce and Fabulous/Dragalicious- 1 a.m. Wednesdays www.801bourbon.com

■ Celebrate a real Key West treasure: Mel Fisher Days runs July 13 to 15, Schedule available at melfisherdays.melfisher.com (Don’t forget to read Island House 1129 Fleming St. the A1-cover story, if haven’t already.) www.Islandhousekeywest.com 7.17 La Te Da 1125 Duval St. ■ See this classic play for the original, 3Sum, July 13, 14, 15 and 16, 8:30 p.m. 1963 release price of $5 bucks! “One Randy Roberts, July 13 and 18, 9 p.m. Christopher Peterson, July 15, 9 p.m. Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest,” July 13, Dave Bootle, July 18 and 19, 8:30 p.m. 14, 15, 16 and 19, 8 p.m., The Red Barn Tea Dance-Sundays 4 to 6:30 Theatre, 319 Duval St., rear www.Lateda.com — www.redbarntheatre.com 7.13-16,19

AROUND ■ Yeah, baby! Don’t KEY WEST miss the shagadelic Summerish Fun Ghost Tours and Ghost Hunts Nightly Movie Series: “Austin

301 Whitehead St. and 1102 Duval St. 7.19 Powers,” July 19, 8 (305) 395-1435 p.m., The Key West www.hauntedkeywest.com Theater, 512 Eaton St. Green Market Bayview Park — www. North Roosevelt and Jose Marti Drive thekeywesttheater.com Thursdays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Key West Greenmarket on Facebook ■

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*Restrictions apply. See server for full details. A10 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST MEL From page 1 tradition. But in Key West, treasure hunting is not just relegated to the realm of far-fetched lore and historical non- fiction. From July 13–15, Key West will cele- brate the life of a man who fully adopted the old adage, “Finders keepers.” A man who fought before the Supreme Court to defend his right to finding what he kept, and who followed his dreams relent- lessly, impossibly, sure that they would come true if he simply kept at it. Who shared the incredible bounty of his life with family, friends, and strangers. Who dreamt of finding buried treasure more than he dreamt of a desk job — and then had the courage to follow that dream, even when things seemed hopeless. And who, after having lived a life of incon- ceivable adventure, tenacity, intrigue and bravery, inspired an annual celebra- tion that today raises tens of thousands of dollars for charity. It is the memory of Mr. Fisher, historic treasure hunter, famed dreamer, and one of Key West’s most beloved characters, that the Mel Fisher Days Festival seeks to celebrate. Mr. Fisher is perhaps the most leg- endary treasure hunter in American Mel Fisher’s storied treasure salvage vessel J.B. Magruder. history. His early years were spent working on a chicken ranch, running in the major leagues. Today’s the day the world’s first dive shop, selling lob- we find the Atocha! Today’s the day! sters and exploring wrecks underwater Outside of his family, his crew, his close alongside his record-setting diver wife, friends, and a handful of investors, no Dorothy, nicknamed Deo. In time, Mr. one believed he would find it. Fisher and Deo went on to uproot their (Spoiler alert: He found it.) lives to search for buried treasure in Mel Fisher Days has grown tremen- Florida. They developed cutting-edge dously since its 1998 conception, dur- technology and amassed a crackerjack ing which Mr. Fisher was alive and team of experts, all of whom narrowed the festival was able to honor him in their focus to the search for one myste- person. At the time, it was a small gath- riously-vanished Spanish galleon ship: ering, with hot dogs and discounts on The Nuestra Señora de Atocha (or, more rum and Coke as the main draw. Today, simply, the Atocha), which sank in 1622 the celebration offers a wider range of in the waters off the Florida Keys, tak- events, including tours of the company’s ing with it over $400 million worth of treasure boats and private conserva- gold, jewels, armaments, antiquities and tion laboratory, live music, raffles, a those legendary pieces of eight made silent auction worth tens of thousands famous by Disney’s seemingly never- of dollars and the chance to bite into a ending Pirates of the Caribbean films cupcake laced with an authentic Atocha (Spanish silver dollars worth a fortune piece of eight. Beginning on Thursday, today). July 13, and occurring on Friday, July Ms. Fisher and Mr. Fisher had chil- 14, a limited number of ticket holders dren; the children joined the quest. The will get a behind-the-scenes look at the family became a kind of Swiss Family private conservation laboratory of the Robinson of the treasure salvaging busi- Fisher family, receiving an intimate look ness, spending 16 years and hundreds at some of today’s most sophisticated of thousands of dollars on their quest archeological conservation technology to unearth the (and the millions Atocha’s payload. of dollars’ worth In today’s infor- of treasure that it mation-driven, was built to pro- instant gratifi- tect). On the after- cation age, the noon of Saturday, thought that any- July 15, from 3–9 Capt. Andy of the J. B. Magruder. one could spend p.m., locals and visitors will con- 16 minutes, let ity. This year’s lucky recipients, Wesley Key West community (and significant alone 16 years, in verge at Schooner Warf Bar (one of House Family Services, is a charity that ones at that — last year’s event raised pursuit of a sin- Shawn Cowles, one of the original cre- $20,000), the Fisher’s Treasures com- gular objective is impressive beyond Mr. Fisher’s favorite drinking haunts — they actually cast his handprints in the ators of Mel Fisher Days, feels strongly pany is simply helping its family out. comprehension, but the Fishers weren’t that Mr. Fisher himself would have been When it comes to the company’s cur- just any average thrill-seeking family. concrete), where the storied treasure salvage vessel JB Magruder will dock proud to support. The charity, which rent efforts to uncover buried treasure, The Fishers lost a son and daughter- provides services to needy children and Mr. Fisher’s Treasures is constantly in-law to the search and faced an end- alongside the bar. Treasure-hunting fans will be able to tour the ship, examining families throughout the Keys including investing in and developing new cut- less barrage of doubt and ridicule over foster and adoptive care, intervention ting-edge technology to aid in their his refusal to give up hope of finding equipment still used in the field and rub- bing shoulders with the “Golden Crew” services, life skills training and more, search. Electronic surveys are always the ship. He was famously, relentlessly exists to protect and provide for the underway and modern technology is determined, starting each day by telling of the original Atocha mother lode dis- covery. The event is free, open to the many needy families who utilize its aiding the current treasure-hunters his crew, “Today’s the day!” It became services. During his lifetime, Mr. Fisher to identify and locate long-lost ships a credo; they printed it on T-shirts. For public and will also feature live music, food, drinks and contests (including the had, of course, leaned heavily on the and recover their treasure. That new over 5,000 days, Mr. Fisher believed support of his immediate family, his wife technology includes a newly-developed that today was the day he would finally Lucky Cupcake Contest — those pos- sessing teeth prone to chipping: you’ve and children working tirelessly along- HAUV (that’s a Hybrid Autonomous achieve his dream. They would find the side him, sometimes with heartbreaking Underwater Vehicle to you landlub- Atocha, be rich beyond imagination, and been warned). The Schooner Wharf Bar Dock Party will also feature the now- results. His son, Kim Fisher, continues bers), a custom-built research vehicle his childhood dreams informed by late his father’s work to this day, searching capable of reaching depths of up to nights reading in rural famous silent auction with prizes rang- ing from authentic treasure to luxurious the ocean surrounding the Keys for 1,000 meters. Move over, Mars Rover, would finally become reality. the still-undiscovered sections of the there’s a new bot in town. His quest became the kind of dare-to- vacations. While the company still actively rais- Atocha and other valuable wrecks. The It’s not just the universally-felt lure dream, impossible-to-win-but-deter- Key West community supported Mr. of riches that makes Mr. Fisher’s story mined-to-anyway story that Hollywood es funds to finance its current treasure hunting missions, it was decided early Fisher and his company across 16 years such a powerful one. Indeed, for many, loves to make about injured pitchers of seemingly-futile searching and fun- the actual loot of the Atocha is not the getting a second chance at redemption on that 100 percent of the festival’s proceeds would go to a Key West char- draising; in helping raise funds for its most incredible part of the tale. It’s the FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST www.FloridaWeekly.com WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A11 idea that a person could wake up each day, for an incomprehensible number of days in a row, and tell himself and his crew that today was the day, and that he could believe it just as strongly one morning as the next. In an age of deletable-tweets and five-second atten- tion spans, of lightning-fast information and anonymous internet bullies, this kind of unwavering faith in one’s abil- ity to achieve his or her dreams and to invest the time and effort necessary to do so is practically unheard of. But of equal importance is the endless support and unwavering faith of his crew, his family, and his friends, which enabled Mr. Fisher to achieve his dreams, mak- ing the Atocha team just as impressive and legendary a model for humanity as the man behind the find himself. It’s the stuff of fables, of mythical quests Treasure hunt winners. and pirates and children’s playground laws. For Mr. Fisher, “Today’s the day” wasn’t simply a credo meant to keep the workers focused. It was how he lived in the present moment. It enabled him to get up each day with the same deter- mination and focus as the day prior. It made every day he woke up important, hope-filled, exceptional. Every day, an opportunity for adventure and success. Every day, the support of his family — both genetic and otherwise — enough to keep him from throwing in the salt water-soaked towel and giving up. Per- haps Mr. Fisher was teaching all of us that each morning, before the day has The Mel Fisher Expeditions booth. ground us down to our worst selves, we have the opportunity to curate the for all of us — we just have to remember valence of our thoughts, to choose to to live it that way. ■ believe we can achieve our dreams or make sure that someone else’s are held — For a complete schedule of events afloat for just one more day. And per- ,visit www.MelFisherfisherdays.melfish- NICK DOLL / COURTESY PHOTO haps that’s what Mel Fisher Days is real- er.com. Admiring the treasure. ly about, at its core: that today’s the day, A12 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST PRIZE From page 1 secretly added to the mix. By the time the ship was ready to depart, the Nues- tra Senora de Atocha, prize galleon of Spain’s Tierra Firme fleet, named for the holiest of shrines in Madrid, had had more than 40 tons of treasure packed tight within her hull. When the Atocha joined the rest of her convoy of 28 ships and set course from Havana for Spain, it was Sept. 4 — now six weeks later than the fleet had been scheduled to depart, and five weeks into prime tropical storm season. The ships began their journey, with the Atocha holding the rear to ward off attackers. The following day, as it entered the shallow, treacherous waters of the Flor- ida Straits, a hurricane hit the con- voy head-on. By morning, eight ships, including the Atocha, were wrecked. Their remains were strewn across tens of miles, a kingdom’s worth of treasure banished to the bottom of the sea along with hundreds of passengers drowned. Only three sailors and two slaves were able to escape the Atocha’s watery grave; they were found clinging to the Treasure recovered from a Spanish galleon. mizzenmast by rescuers who could do no more than mark the site of the Ato- her legendary bounty for the next 60 who asked that “today was the day” he skin diving. In time, he purchased a cha’s sunken hull, then move onward years, all returning home empty-hand- was going to find her. revolutionary new technology called to search for survivors of the rest of ed. In the end, after decades of fruitless Mr. Fisher had spent his childhood the “aqualung,” which allowed him to the fleet. searching, it wasn’t a Spanish salvager dreaming of undersea adventures, remain underwater for longer periods One month later, a second hurricane who tracked down the wreck — it was, reading Jules Verne and designing of time. Eventually, Mr. Fisher relocat- would plow through the site, scatter- improbably, a former chicken farmer crude diving helmets in landlocked ed with his family to Torrance, Calif., ing the remains of the Atocha so far it from Indiana who finally unearthed the Indiana. When a post-war military dis- taking his love of diving with him. seemed the 112-foot ship had vanished disappeared galleon. His name was Mel charge found him settled in Tampa, Mr. During the day, he worked as a chick- altogether. Spanish salvagers would Fisher, and he’d spent 16 years search- Fisher was able to realize his child- en farmer on his family’s ranch. At return to search for the galleon and ing for the Atocha, telling everyone hood dreams by cultivating a love of night, he designed spear guns and div- FLORIDA WEEKLY WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A13

The red circle marks the area where the Atocha sank. ing gear in a feed shed outside. His creations were popular with the locals, and in time he found a community of people who shared his passion for underwater adventure — and, lucky for him, a bride whose interest was just as keen. They made money div- ing for spiny lobster, saving enough to even- tually open “Mel’s Aqua Shop,” the first recorded specialized dive shop in the world. Together, they would teach an estimated 65,000 people how to dive. In 1953, the two set off for a honeymoon spent underwater exploring shipwrecks in Florida. The Fishers spent the next few years indulging in their shared love of diving, selling lobsters Mel Fisher for money, manning Mr. Fisher’s dive shop, and and daughter-in-law, both of whom had making underwater films for television. worked alongside Mr. Fisher and his An interest in underwater treasure- crew for years, were killed after their hunting, spurred by a vacation to Mex- treasure hunting boat capsized mere ico, soon blossomed into a full-scale days after their discovery of some of obsession, and eventually Mr. Fisher the Atocha cannons. put together a crew of like-minded It wasn’t until July 20, 1985, exactly treasure hunters to move to Florida. a year from the day of Mr. Fisher’s The team included a welder, an elec- son’s death, that the hunt could finally tronics specialist, a diesel mechanic, cease. A message from one of Mr. a cartographer, and, of course, Mr. Fisher’s fleet of salvage ships, Daunt- Fisher’s wife, Dolores, an accomplished less, was received back at headquarters: skin diver who would go on to break the charts could finally be put away the world record for underwater endur- for good; they’d found the main pile ance. The Fisher crew teamed up with of treasure. The excavation of one of Real Eight, a treasure-hunting outfit the world’s most coveted shipwrecks led by Kip Wagner, who’d spent years AMERICAN CLASSIC EATS began. searching for an armada of Spanish Teams of archeologists and conser- ships that sank in 1715. The two agreed vators gathered and began the lengthy WITH A TWIST. to work for free for one year, and work of stabilizing the long-buried to split whatever proceeds they sal- gold, silver, precious gems, rare nav- vaged equally. Together, they designed UNIQUE MUSIC EXPERIENCES. igational instruments, gallery wares, a series of tools for sensing large varia- seeds, armaments, and countless other tions in the magnetic field on the ocean treasures. Together, the bounty offered floor, and for blowing clear water down JAW-DROPPING MEMORABILIA. a priceless look into 17th-century life, to the silty bottom in order to better valued at over $400 million. They were illuminate what treasures might be hid- immediately flung into a deluge of den there. Beginning in 1969, Mr. Fisher legal proceedings, with various claims and his team prioritized their search from parties including the state of for treasure, honing in on one payload Florida itself, ultimately finding them- in particular: the Atocha. selves arguing their right to the trea- Mr. Fisher and his team began a sure before the Supreme Court. They tumultuous 16-year search for the were victorious and in 1987, Congress famed Spanish galleon, traveling to passed the Abandoned Shipwreck Act, Spain to research ancient maps and giving states the rights to shipwrecks anecdotal records of the shipwreck. (and their payloads) located within Though armed with copies of faded, three miles of the coastline. Today, centuries-old documents they believed much of the treasure the Mel Fisher showed the location of the wreck, mis- group fought to keep is now on display translated directions and re-named at the nonprofit Mel Fisher Maritime KEY WEST islands lead them on a series of futile, Museum, which sees 200,000 visitors lengthy searches costing hundreds of 313 DUVAL ST. | +1-305-293-0230 each year. To see it in person and learn thousands of dollars. But Fisher was more about the incredible journey to not to be deterred, reportedly begin- find the Atocha, visit the museum at ning each day’s search with the proc- HARDROCK.COM #THISISHARDROCK 200 Greene Street in Key West. ■ lamation, “Today’s the day!” The team discovered a handful of cannons, sil- — Mel Fisher Maritime Museum ver, and a gold chain attributed to the ©2017 Hard Rock Cafe International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved. 200 Greene St. Atocha’s manifest in the early 1970s, www.melfisher.org which enabled them to continue to raise money to fund their efforts. Trag- edy struck when Mr. Fisher’s son, Dirk, A14 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST GALLERY GUIDE

For a comprehensive guide and map COURTESY PHOTO to Key West’s finest art galleries, visit Martha Hubbard: White Street Pier. www.keysarts.com/artist_connections/ gallery_guide.pdf. SPECIAL EVENTS THIS WEEK: SALT Gallery 830 Fleming St.

The Photography of Martha Hubbard Ongoing through August 2 The Studios of Key West 533 Eaton St.

5th Annual Mango Madness Members Show June 1 to July 20 www.tskw.org The Historic Armory Studios 600 White St. Key West Art and Paintings by Michael J. Phillips Historical Society Ongoing Custom House Museum [email protected] 281 Front St. 704-819-2487 The Navy in Key West Mixed media work by Ongoing Sherry Sweet Tewell Ongoing Tennessee Williams, www.Sherrysweettewell.com The Playwright and Painter or Ongoing www.Kwahs.org ■ COURTESY PHOTOS [email protected] Selections of mixed media works by Sherry 859-533-1874 Sweet Tewell — an ongoing exhibition at The Historic Armory Studios. Spice SUMMERUP YOUR KeyIN West!

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Maya Montana, the darling of Aqua Nightclub

BY LAURA HACKWORTH “Because I had to be there for all of the Florida Weekly Correspondent preliminary competitions and then got to tour after winning the title, I had the Make no mistake about it — whether incredible opportunity to see this beauti- in drag or not, Maya Montana is the most ful country, meet new people, and make adorable drag queen on Duval Street. new friends.” When I strolled into the empty Aqua The most interesting part of Maya’s Nightclub at one o’clock on a Monday development as a drag star is that she afternoon, Maya was there to greet me never had any preconceived notions or with a million-watt smile, a huge hug specific inspirations for her character. and a giggle so cute you’d swear it came Most drag queens like to channel Cher from a 5-year-old girl. Judging from the or Bette Midler or Barbra Streisand, but number of times Maya said “I love it Maya is a character all her own. At first, here” during our conversation, I think it’s she says, “I was just having fun. I picked a safe to say that she loves Key West just as look I thought would work and just went much as Key West loves her. with it! At this point, I’ve been doing Maya moved to the United States from drag long enough that I’ve developed my the Philippines in 1987 and lived all over own identity and look and characters but the Eastern Seaboard before she settled at the beginning I just did what felt right. in Key West. In 1994, Maya was living in And now that I’ve been doing it for over Washington, D.C., and happened upon a two decades, it only takes me about an newspaper ad for a drag pageant while hour to get into full drag.” she was riding on the Metro. You would And the name Maya Montana? “The never know it, but at that point she had “maya” used to be the national bird of the never seen a drag performer or show in Philippines, so for me that was an impor- her entire life, let alone an entire pag- tant part of sharing my culture and back- eant. Intrigued, Maya studied the ad, ground with my audience. The Montana decided what she would need to create part is silly!” Here, Maya blushes and a female persona, and competed in her shoots me her signature giggle. “At the very first drag pageant having never even time, I thought Joe Montana was really experienced drag, much less tried to per- cute, so I figured the last name Montana form it herself. was perfect.” “I always had inclinations to dress as Although she is a permanent fixture a woman,” Maya says. “I’ve always been on the Aqua stage, Maya has only lived very feminine and wanted to entertain, in Key West for eight years. Her move which was one of the reasons I moved to here was largely a fluke, but we can thank the United States from the Philippines. fellow Aquanettes Jessica Deveraux and I love dancing and performing, so drag Faith Michaels for Maya’s grand entrance seemed like a perfect outlet to express onto the scene. myself.” Back in August 2008, “I was living in Unsurprisingly, drag came absolutely Alpharetta, Ga., and Aqua needed some- naturally to her. Though drag was a com- one to fill in. I knew Faith and Jessica pletely unfamiliar medium, Maya placed from the female impersonator competi- eighth out of 10 competitors. “Not so bad tion circuit and they invited me to come for a first timer!” Maya laughs. down, so I drove down and I worked at Fast forward four short years to 1998. Aqua and after the show they invited me Maya had been competing in drag pag- to stay full time. I fell in love with this eants fairly regularly and she decided to island instantly and I never take it for compete in Miss Gay America, the first granted.” and longest-running pageant for female The performance schedule at Aqua impersonators. Winning Miss Gay Amer- Nightclub rotates regularly, so make sure ica was definitely a life-changing event. to check out www.aquakeywest.com to “Competing for and winning Miss Gay see when Maya Montana is performing America gave me the opportunity to with the Aquanettes. You can find Aqua travel all over the country,” Maya says. Nightclub at 711 Duval St. ■ A16 WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 www.FloridaWeekly.com FLORIDA WEEKLY KEY WEST KEY WEST CUISINE Santiago’s Bodega brings Spain to Key West

BY LAURA HACKWORTH Moving on to the hot tapas, it’s always Florida Weekly Correspondent near impossible to decide what to order and what to omit. The pinchos morunos, Far too often, tourists and locals alike skewers of pork tenderloin grilled and get sucked into the gaping vortex that served with a spicy-sweet apple chutney, is Duval Street and develop a sort of are scrumptious. The croquettas, pota- culinary myopia that causes them to to patties spiced with cayenne, stuffed overlook the many incredible options with prosciutto and provolone cheese, hiding mere blocks off of Key West’s and topped with a scallion cream, are storied main drag. To forgo the side crispy on the outside and creamy on streets means to miss out on what this the inside and just plain delicious. The writer considers one of the absolute dates, stuffed with goat cheese, wrapped best restaurants on the island — San- tiago’s Bodega. Situated at the quieter end of Petro- nia Street in the heart of Bahama Village, Santiago’s has been delighting everyone lucky enough to dine within its walls since the tapas restaurant opened in 2006. For those of you who haven’t yet had the good fortune to eat at Santiago’s, an instructional caveat: the tapas menu is almost intimidatingly large. And, even worse, there are truthfully no bad dishes to be had. So, consider this article more of a gastronomic guideline than a hard- COURTESY PHOTOS / NICK DOLL PHOTOGRAPHY and-fast list of must-eats, aside from the sangria. You should always, always start still have room for a tableful of delicious The mozzarella burrata is a gift from in prosciutto, and then baked until the your Santiago’s meal with the sangria small plates. the Italian gods. Burrata is a variety of prosciutto is crispy, are divine. And if (red or white, whatever your pleasure). Of the cold tapas, the yellowfin tuna fresh mozzarella that is finished with you don’t have much of a sweet tooth, Now that your whistle is wet, the glut- ceviche is a standout. Thick cubes of cream, so when you cut into it the inside the dates can serve almost like petit fours tonous feasting can commence. fresh, local yellowfin tuna are bathed in a oozes the same way a perfectly poached for a touch of sweetness to finish off your The avocado and pear salad is a great slightly spicy citrus marinade and served egg yolk would. Santiago’s appreciates meal. And that doesn’t even hit half of the way to start — mixed greens in a creamy with chunks of avocado and mango. The the unadorned beauty of the burrata and hot tapas options. I mean it when I say parmesan dressing, topped with ripe avo- citrus marinade cures the outside of the serves it with a simple and delicate wal- you literally cannot order a “wrong” dish. cado and pear, toasted pine nuts and tuna, making the dish sweet, salty, and nut pesto, halved cherry tomatoes and I’m slightly ashamed but I’ll admit it; more parmesan. The sweet and savory briny. Make sure to get a little tuna, avo- a drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette. It’s so one of my most favorite things on Santi- play beautifully with the cheesy nutti- cado and mango at the same time — it’s a good I’ve been known to make an entire ago’s stellar tapas menu is the decidedly ness and the salad is light enough you’ll perfectly balanced, refreshing bite. meal of that dish alone. un-Spanish saganaki — a flaming ode to

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“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”

Greek halloumi cheese, set afire table- side via a delightfully boozy accelerant. When the alcohol (mostly) burns off, what’s left is an herby, perfectly squeaky wedge of mild soft cheese so tasty you’ll be inclined to throw your dish on the floor and scream “Opa!” (Note: Florida Weekly KeyWest in no way condones the destruction of Santiago’s property. Please do not do this.) You might be so busy inhaling all of the food to really take a look around the low, warm lighting will transport the place, but Santiago’s interior décor you right to a romantic restaurant in the is truly beautiful and reflective of both heart of Barcelona (as if the pitcher of Key West’s natural aesthetic and owner sangria hasn’t already done that). SUMMER HOURS Jason Dugan’s personal journey to open- Excellent food, impeccable service, M-F 11am-12am for Lunch & Dinner Menu ing his dream restaurant. and an ambiance so seductive you won’t Sat-Sun 10am-12am for Brunch & Dinner Menu The floors are hand-laid hardwood want to leave? If you need me, I’ll be and the bar and tables are all handcrafted stuffing my face on Petronia Street ■ Bring Your Own Beer or Wine from reclaimed wood salvaged by cre- ative director Robert Henry Thompson’s Santiago’s Bodega £ä£™Ê7 ˆÌiÊ-ÌÀiiÌÊUÊiÞÊ7iÃÌÊUÊÎäx°™ÓÓ°Ó£ÇÇ artistic team. There are gorgeous stained 207 Petronia St. glass doors mounted behind the bar and www.santiagosbodega.com ÜÜÜ°>“>ˆ`> ŽiÞÜiÃÌ°Vœ“ Adopt me Today! Name: Kush Breed: Breed Terrier, American Staffordshire/Mix Age : 7 years 8 months 29 days Gender: Male Size: Large Color: Chocolate/White Intake Date: 5/13/2017 Available at: At Key West Campus of Florida Keys SPCA

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A18 | WWW.FLORIDAWEEKLY.COM WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017

Cottage just a stroll away from your favorite places 416 Amelia Street — $575,000

This historic Conch cottage is located at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. — it’s fully fenced for privacy and may To view this property or for just a half block from Duval Street This adorable two bedroom and one have room for a small pool. This charm- more information, contact: and within walking distance of tourist bathroom home has hardwood floors, ing cottage would make the perfect Scott Forman attractions such as the Southernmost central air and stainless appliances. It’s rental property or vacation home for Royal Palms Realty Point and the Hemingway House, fash- in an ideal location to watch the world anyone looking for an Old Town oasis 933 Fleming St. ionable restaurants such as La Te Da and go by from the shade of the front porch, near the heart of it all. ■ 305-923-9884 Banana Café, and the beautiful beaches or relax in the lush tropical backyard www.royalpalmsrealty.com

$6,600,000 $1,199,000

22 HILTON HAVEN ROAD5BD/6.5BA  915 CORNISH LANE 2BD/1.5BA KEY WEST SECLUDED BAYFRONT ESTATE FASHION DESIGNER’S SECLUDED ENCLAVE $250,000 $449,000 DOUG MAYBERRY Broker, REALTOR®, GREEN, TRC, RSPS, CLHMS 20 Years and Over 900 Sales Sabrina Acevedo Š Phil Lavoie Š Jared Chiagouris Ginger King Š :HQG\+ROLÀHOGŠ Lori Langton DOUG MAYBERRY REAL ESTATE 1075 Duval Street, Suite C23, Key West, FL 33040 In Duval Square at the corner of Simonton and Virginia Streets 5031 5TH AVENUE2BD/2BA (305) 292-6155 1014 #3 TRUMAN AVENUE2BD/2BA STOCK ISLAND WATERFRONT www.DougMayberry.com UPDATED OLD TOWN CONDO FLORIDA WEEKLY WEEK OF JULY 13-19, 2017 A19 SUMMER SPECIALS ON LUXURY VACATION RENTALS 1-9 Bedroom Homes available Nightly, Weekly, & Monthly Visit our website for last minute reservation discounts! NOT TO MISS RENTAL HOMES Take Advantage of our Last Few Homes Available for Summer

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247 Golf Club Drive: $799,000 Elegant Private Home in the Sanctuary at Key West Golf Club 24 Hour Security / Private Pool / 3 Bedrooms, 2.5 Bathrooms

www.LastKeyRealty.com 1121 Duval Street, Key West FL 33040 305.292.6266