Fashion and Menswear Qa Guide

FASHION AND MENSWEAR QA GUIDE

Buying Briefs

Buying Briefs are issued from the buying team for each style going into a new season whether it is a new line or a re-included line.

The buying brief has all information regarding styling, size range and size ratios, colours, quantities/units, shipment and delivery information, labels and packaging, brand label to be used, sample sizes and date required.

Failure to complete these forms will result in JD Williams having to collect the data itself and will be entitled to recover its expenses from you.

Lab Dips

Lab Dips must all be submitted into the buying team and the buyer will approve/reject and feedback any comments to the supplier. Please do not send to the Technologist for approvals.

Sealing Samples

All sealing sample submissions must have: 1. A full size chart with size discrepancies clearly marked. 2. The JD Williams sample card below attached.

You can have these sample cards printed at a printer of your choice. All information on the card, where appropriate, should be completed. The card should be positioned and tagged through the back neck, waistband label or other sew-in labels where they are available. Where this is not possible it should be attached to the garment in a prominent position, such as, through the waistband seam on the front of the garment or through the back neck seam on tops. Please minimise any fabric damage.

Please address all sealing samples to: Buyers / Technologists name Merchandise Department JD Williams Griffin House 40 Lever Street Manchester M60 6ES

Please inform the relevant Technologist by phone or e-mail whenever samples have been dispatched. All rejected sealing samples must be resubmitted within 14 days of receipt of rejection report. Production must not commence until sealing approval has been received from the relevant technologist.

Additional Samples:

For new lines please send sample of Packaged item in correct packaging materials/swing tickets/card inserts. This must be at Pre-Packaging stage to confirm that the correct folding method/packaging materials are being used for Production.. Customised Mannequins

Programme Information & Benefits J D Williams is a founder member of SizeUK – the UK National Sizing Survey, and have used the data to update and amend their size charts. In order to fully implement the results and benefits of SizeUK, Sizemic has worked with J D Williams to develop a range of customised fit mannequins. These are based on SizeUK measurement and 3D shape data, specifically for their customer profile. J D Williams is now using these mannequins as the fit standard for the brand. The objective is to maximise consistency and accuracy of fit across their supply chain and speed up the product development process. There are considerable benefits for suppliers who participate in this programme. Shape is the critical factor, since shape is more important to achieving good fit than pure measurements. These mannequins are an essential product development and QA communication tool and will bring several benefits for suppliers and a good return on the investment:- An established fit standard - all suppliers fitting on the same body shape Improved garment fit (potentially in all sizes) Higher percentage of first fit approvals Reduced fit model time and costs Fewer sample submissions - lower sample costs Reduced sample shipping/courier costs Shorter development times

Programme Details Sizemic produce high quality, consistently accurate, fit mannequins which include many unique features as standard e.g. soft tummy, collapsible hips and red measurement lines. Sizes: 12, 16, 22 & 28 – this covers the full JD Williams size range and will enable users of all 4 sizes to improve the consistency and accuracy of fit in all sizes. This is particularly relevant to the larger sizes where shape is especially critical and truly representative models hard to find. Mannequin Types: Full body & Half Body. Full Body mannequins are suspended on an adjustable metal stand at the neck and cover all garment types. Half body mannequins are supported on an adjustable metal stand at the base and are more practical for tops. Standard Features of the mannequins include retractable shoulders, left & right detachable shoulder caps, soft tummy, retractable hips – these are designed to make fitting trousers and jeans much easier, red measurement lines and adjustable metal stand. Optional features are left & right detachable arms

Sales Enquiries: Tel: +44 (0)20 3051 2644 E-mail: [email protected]

HLCC CARE CODES

HLCC Codes should be available from the fabric supplier who will have performed lab tests on all cloth. These must meet the recommendations as outlined in ISO 3758:1991.

Underneath the symbols special phrases may be added to help the customer to launder garments correctly – See Appendix III. Underneath the symbols special phrases may be added to help the customer to launder garments correctly - see appendix.

The appropriate Technologist following approval of fabric tests and garment styling will approve the suppliers suggested wash care instructions and advise amendments where necessary. It must be remembered that the care instructions should appear as a selling feature and NOT as a safety net for poor quality. All Trims must be compatible with the care instructions of the garment and to all relevant safety standards.

FABRIC TESTING

It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all fabrics, components and garments perform to the required standards of JD Williams.

These standards are specified on the JD Williams Textile Performance Stats Manual and you may be asked to submit one or more of the tests for approval. Only a JD Williams approved test house can be used – see below for details. In some cases, reports will be accepted from reputable fabric suppliers and this must be agreed with the Technologist prior to the submission of these reports.

SGS Hong Kong Ltd. 5-8/F & 28F Metropole Square, 2 On Yiu Street, Siu Lek Yuen, Shatin, N.T., Hong Kong Tel: (00) 852 2334 4481 Fax: (00) 852 2144 7001

Intertek Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd. 9/c Garment Centre, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon Hong Kong Tel: (00) 852 2173 8888 Fax: (00) 852 2786 9559

Bureau Veritas Hong Kong Ltd. Pacific Trade Centre, 1st Floor, 2 Kai Hing Road Kowloon Bay Kowloon Hong Kong Tel: (00) 852 233 10888 Fax: (00) 852 233 10889

Any requested test reports must be submitted to and approved by the relevant Technologist along with the actual physicals (tested fabric swatches) before any production commences.

Testing should be undertaken as soon as Bulk fabric is received and prior to cutting. Re-testing of fabrics may be requested if a fabric fails to meet with JD Williams standards. If a bulk test report highlights a possible issue, the garment supplier is responsible for re-finishing or replacing the faulty fabric/component.

All testing charges are the responsibility of the supplier.

SAFETY AND LEGISLATIVE REQUIREMENTS The following Legislative requirements (and all their amendments) must be strictly adhered to;

1. Textile Products (Indication of Fibre Content)(Amendment) Regulation 2009. 2. Consumer Protection Act 1987. 3. Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985. 4. Consumer Safety Act 1978. 5. Trade Descriptions Act 1968. 6. Fair Trading Act 1973. 7. Sale of Goods (Amendment) Act 1995 8. Weights and Measures Act 1985. 9. General Product Safety Regulations 2005. 10. Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2005. 11. REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals)

Any supplier and/or products failing to comply with any information required under Environmental Legislation will be liable for the return of any unsaleable product and any costs incurred by JD Williams in accordance with the provisions of JD Williams standard terms & conditions of purchase.

Please refer all queries to the relevant Technologist or QA Manager

Needle policy The greatest care must be taken to ensure that broken needle parts are not left in garments. Please implement the following procedures in all factories;

 No operator should have any spare needles in their possession other than the one being used for the current sewing operation.

 Only the supervisor should have access to spare needles and be permitted to allocate them.

 The supervisor must only be allowed to issue a new needle when all parts of the old needle have been returned.

 If all parts of a broken needle have not been found then the bundle of work on which the operator is working and any other bundles within close proximity of the machine should be removed to a special area for a thorough examination until all the needle parts have been found. Only then may sewing recommence.

 Pins and staples must not be used in any laying up, cutting, making-up or packaging operations.

 For factories with Needle Detectors please use YKK KENSIN accessories for all garments.

Nickel Compliance

Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety) Regulations 2005.

All metal components which are likely to come into prolonged contact with the skin must comply with the EU Directive 2004/96/EC testing to BS EN 1811:1999 and BS EN 12472:1999

All products must be tested at a HOLKAS / NAMAS approved testing laboratory. Test certificates must be submitted for each item and approved by the relevant technologist at JD Williams

Nightwear and Flammability Labelling Requirements.

For nightwear which complies with the flammability standards:  LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS5722 to be printed on the size and care label in black  The size of the print must be in medium letters of 10 point in upper case.  The care and size label is to be positioned where it is clearly visible in the garment.  The size and care label is to be in all pieces of a multi part set.  The print must be durable for the life of the garment.

For nightwear which does not comply to the flammability standard:-

 KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE to be printed on the size and care label in red.  The size of the print must be in medium letters of 10 point in upper case.  The warning must be on the front of the loop care and size label.  The care and size label is to be positioned where it is clearly visible in the garment.  The size and care label is to be in all pieces of a multi part set. The print must be durable for the life of the garment.

Restricted Chemicals Suppliers must ensure that they comply with ALL applicable legislation relating to restricted chemicals for all clothing and the components supplied to JD Williams. Please refer to the REACH directive

Requirements may change, so beware of any future changes.

Please ensure that you obtain the required test certificates / documentation for this directive.

INSPECTION PROCEDURES 7.1 Intermediate Inspection

Intermediate inspections must be made during production, either by a roving inspection system, or at fixed examination stations within a line or section. The procedure for inspecting must include sizing and make up checks and comparison with the approved sample and labelling requirements. The sealed sample should be kept in the factory producing the garments.

7.2 In Work Checks

J D Williams reserve the right to visit a suppliers premises during production to inspect on line or finished stock against the agreed standards. Any faults found should be discussed during the visit and a written report completed by the J D Williams Technologist stating clearly what the problems are and what action to take. The report should be signed by both parties in acknowledgement of the visit and any action required. Copies should be circulated as follows:- 1) One for the Supplier 2) One for the Technologist (office copy) 3) One for the Warehouse 4) One for Stock Control

7.3 AQL ‘Final’ Inspections

We will work at normal level to an AQL of 2.5 for all our merchandise, e.g. Number of pieces available for inspection is 3000 - 125 are examined and the allowance for faults is 7. If the number of major faults is above this quantity, then the merchandise will require a further 100% inspection by the supplier. It is therefore of extreme importance to ensure your final inspection removes all visual faults such as fabric flaws, stains etc. It is imperative that the merchandise is correctly presented and that the pressing is of a good consistent standard. FAULTY MERCHANDISE We aim to deliver defect free garments to all of our customers. It is in everybody's interest that we succeed in this. When inspecting garments the following faults must be rejected - in the case of major faults, or rectified - in the case of minor faults. If you are in any doubt about how to proceed with faulty merchandise please contact the relevant Technologist immediately. Do not ship faulty goods.

Seam Faults

Major Faults Minor Faults Monofilament thread used Insecure seams (splitting) Slightly irregular seams Severe slack stitching Slight slack stitching Needle damage Badly distorted seams Slightly distorted seams Contrast thread used Shaded sewing threads Incorrect sewing thread Loose ends Inadequate stitches per 3cm. Stitches per 3cm. slightly below std Severe seam pucker Slight puckering Severe seam grinning Slight grinning Inadequate bar tacks Bar tacks insufficient but functional

Inspection Faults

Major Faults Minor Faults Holes Severe shading Slight shading Severe staining Slight staining Misshapen / distorted Slight distortion Incorrectly labelled Bad odour Slight odour Inadequate colourfastness Drill holes visible Snagging / pilling Slight pilling Incorrect fabric used Not as sealed sample Measurements out of tolerance Measurements incorrect but garment fits Scorched Bad mends Correct mends Severe fabric defects Slight fabric defects Insecure lining Irregular piping Slightly irregular piping Insecure piping Ladders in fabric Underweight Overweight Incorrect lining No lining (where there should be one)

Zip Faults

Major Faults Minor Faults Severe zip pucker Slight zip pucker Zips incorrectly inserted Zips functional but not perfectly inserted Non functional zips Zips functional but sewn in too close to fabric Insecure zips Unbranded zips