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Costers del Priorat Fina Son, M>rtI 43738 Bellmun, del Priora, TI,"""" Web ~ WWW.COSl~prioralcom 0034618201473 UK 1rnp<> PRIORAT-- - Ferrer Bobet Web: W'WW. ~Lcom E:~orn UK Imponer. H2V\N Web: www.h2vJn.co.uk1 T:020 1478 7376 paco , garcla ~ ~ RIOJA 1011 CR IANZA 2011 D0tX co".UJ DI VUfyU VILLU Bodegas Paco García C " t aVento. SI " , n PRlORAT L6 ,M~ ae AJo Leza LA RlOJA SPAI Tet +34 941432 3n Mas Dolx f ma,t. ~fo4!bodcgaspacogarcoa.com Web; W'W'W.mudobt.com UK Imponer: WNW bodegaspacogaroa.com OWLoeb Wltter KOGARCIAWI ES ++4 20 nJ4 0385 Dernnter PANEL TASTING Priorat For gutsy, spicy individuality and a true sense of place, the new breed of wines from this rugged Catalan territory are well worth discovering, says Sarah Jane Evans MW v PRIORAT IS COMPLlCATED. If you want to drive from A ...... to B - no chanceoVou 'lI need to go round via F and M O a. Vin de Vila Village : . ~onlsanl T A T There's scarcely a straight line in the place. It's the same 1...... : ...... ~ ...... 1 La Morera de Montsant N with the soil. Priorat is all about the slate: lIicorella. It's 2 Scala Dei ~.., NíS.AN .. ::' what gives the minerality. Vet look at any geological map 3 Poboleda . 1'.40 :.... 4 La Vilella Alta ot"l.A Dé, " . .¡" and you 'lI be dazzled by the contrasting selection of soils. sErr .... : . 5 La Vilella Baixa ,...... ,. \ Then there are the dizzyingly different vineyard aspects; 6 TorroJa del Priorat . Comudella 7 Gratallops de Montsant the slopes, which range from S% to a precipitous 95%; and / * 8 Porrera ... ., \' ." the average rainfall, which varies from 450mm to 750mm (. 9 El Uoar across the 000. (DOa? That's the top rating for any DO 10 Solanes del Molar / .... ~ ...... :(. in Spain, only shared with Rioja, where it's known as DOCa.) , 11 Bellmunt del Priorat ( 12 Masos de Falset f O 1 234 5 There's nothing consistent about the place. Except ...... , ! ! , ! I perhaps its isolation and glorious mystery. Partly as a kilometres result of this isolation and abandonment, Priorat has ...... lived through times of serious impoverishment. 'As J/ recently as the early 19905', one producer told me, f·.. ·· ....· 'pensions were the basic source of income.' A quarter of a century ago the new era of Priorat was ...... CE sparked by five pioneers. Around the millennium another era began, with a new generation of businesses ( m starting up and winemakers reviving family wineries and \... ( . ... ". .' Falsat .. ,. l...t C J'ALU YA old vineyards. José Mas of Costers del Priorat is typical: \.... : \ :...... "\. ) ·····1 :J" . ::... -9/0.1,;1 c: a 'newcomer' who has settled in and earned his reputation: ~ < SllJíaf18 lf ...... ·.... Y . Ma~a Qi 'Some people work in wine because they have family z ¡;,.. vineyards. I'm part of Generation Zero. I don't have any , ~ r '''¡¡ 420 L..'" inherited obligation to work; it's just my pass ion.' MO T A T ..ci L Fresh approach Given the diversity of the land, there is no likelihood of him or anyone producing a textbook or recipe wine. Vet Priorat: know your vintages the best Priorat wines share a clear identity, usually with an inky colour and a dense, rich texture. There is often a 2o 14 An Atlantic vintage with a (highlighted overleaf) show good distinct freshness typical of Garnacha grown at the vengeance: rain, hail and rot. Vet many balance. Drink now and over 10 years. highest altitudes on red clay. As Valenti Llagostera of wines show promising freshness. Early Mas Doix, puts it: 'These are wake-up wines, not sofa wines.' for a final verdict. but one to watch. 2 011 A very hot year, except in July, Cariñena needs to be handled with ca re. Says Mireia the wines are, in style, somewhere Torres of the eponymous winery: 'We love Cariñena - it 2O 13 Like 2014, an Atlantic vintage: between 2009 and 2010. Buy carefully. gives lower alcohol, and ages well. But it does need poor cooler, and promising more elegant, soil, so doesn't work so well in our Penedes vineyards.' fragrant wines. Many producers are 2 010 While this was a hot and dry With its tiny vineyards and the difficulty of working talking of an ideal vintage, with easily year, Priorat produced so me great them, Priorat will never be cheap. Hence the wines can 10 years' ageing capacity. wines (see overleaf for the tasting be slow to sell, and there are some less likeable older results) with freshness. Drink now or vintages around. So do check the vintage when you buyo 2O 12 The hot, dry summer - the enjoy over five to 10 years. Also check the label for the name of the village or third dry year in a row - was relieved vineyard. 'Vi de Finca' denotes a wine marketed under by some rain. Some wines suffered 2009 Rated excellent; a powerful, the same single vineyard name for at least 10 years. from low acidity, but the best ripe, bold vintage. Drink soon. There are only two at present but more will appear. More contentious is the much debated 'Vi de Vila', an attempt at a Burgundian approach to a village wine. It's Priorat: the facts a pity it's still undecided - Priorat could take the lead with its 12 identifiable villages capable of producing The 000 is 17,629ha in area, of which 250ha; Syrah 224ha; Merlot 105ha 'Vins de Vila'. We wait for good news. l,887ha are under vine. There are 600 Total whites 99ha, of which Garnacha growers and 99 registered wineries Blanca represents more than half Sarah Jane Evans MW is Regional co-Chair for Spain and Total reds l,800ha, of which: Garnacha Total production (2014) whites, Sherry at the Decanter World Wine Awards 710ha; Cariñena 483ha; Cabernet Sauvignon 341,306kg; reds, 5,618,658kg }> (Source ConsejO Regulador 01 Priora!) DECA TER · ovember 2015 I 113 Dealnter PANEL TASTING The results The presence of Cariñena in all three top-rated wines reflects the focus by Priorat's leading names on native varieties. Christelle Gu ibert reports on a tasting that changed our panel's vi ew of the region PRIORA T SEEMS TO have come a long way since our 'The wines share a wildness Thescores last tasting in March 2011. Our judges' perceptions then lOO wines tasted of high-alcohol, over-oaked and concentrated wines and herbiness, and a distinct have been replaced, thanks to an exciting new style. 'Priorat has moved to a new stage and there is real 3 regional identity' Pierre Mansour Outstanding excitement about the future: enthused Sarah Jane Evans MW. 'My real discovery this year has been Cariñena.' is a new region and that all they do there is make very 16 This is clearly reflected in the result, with the top wines concentrated wines with lots of oak; that was true in the Highly recommended predominantly made from Cariñena (Carignan). past, but no longer. Yes, they have a lot of alcohol but on Evans continued: 'Producers seem to ha ve turned the the other hand, they are really nicely balanced. The best 65 corner in going back and rediscovering what they do thing about Cariñena is that it's fresh!' Pierre Mansour Recommended best, which is their own local varieties. This is quite a echoed her comment: 'Alcohol is part of the Priorat recent change.' Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW explained: style, but in general it was in balance. There were 10 'In 1972, the ministry said Priorat had the potential to make examples where the alcohol was aboye 16%, but the Fair top Cabernet Sauvignon. In the 1980s, five producers richness and generosity of fruit is so in tense that it established themselves in the region, planting a lot of supports the alcohol, and the acidity too, and it works as o Cabernet and Merlot, which were popular at the time. a part of their original flavour and style.' Poor Alvaro Palacios has now abandoned Cabernet Sauvignon, In fact, the very few wines with lower alcohol did not but until 2014 there were still a lot of both varieties.' perform well, prompting Mansour to suggest: 'Perhaps 6 Evans also confessed to expecting an overdose of oak they are picking too early to get to this style, or the vines Faulty and alcohol, prior to the tasting: 'People say that Priorat are young. The 14%-15% alcohollevel is the sweet spot.' The tasters' verdicts Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW Sarah Jane Evans MW Ballesteros Torres is DWWA Regional Evans is DWWA Regional co-Chair for co-Chair for Spain and Sherry, with Evans Spain and Sherry, with Ballesteros Torres (right). He has studied in Jerez, Burgundy, (Ieft). An award-winning journalist and Napa and Bordeaux, and has a master's in wine writer since the 1980s, she became a viticulture and oenology. A columnist at Master of Wine in 2006. In 2010 Evans Spain's Vino y Gastronomfa and Planeta was knighted into the Gran Orden de Vino magazines, he is on the council of Caballeros del Vino for services to Spanish the Institute of Masters of Wine, the wine, becoming chair of the Institute of governing board of the Spanish Tasters ' Masters of Wine in 2014. She contributes Union, and the wine expert committee of to leading wine magazines and reference the Basque Culinary Centre. books, and judges wines internationally. Ballesteros Torres' verdict Evans' verdict 'Priorat is unbeatable in terms of average Quality. After this '1 must confess that I approached this tasting with some apprehension. comprehensive tasting, one could say that the likelihood of getting After all, how can you do justice to 100 individual wines in a day? good quality when buying any Priorat is aboye 80%. Very few Tannin, alcohol, oak and high extraction in the wine would all kili the appellations in Europe ean claim similar reliability. This is even more palate. How wrong I was! The alcohol is present, yet I only noted it on amazing when recalling memories of past Priorat tastings. Dry tannins, the palate in just 10% of the wines. Oak al so stood out, but again in a cooked fruit aromas, over-ripeness, excessive alcohol and clumsy oak small percentage. And the densely high extraction has also disappeared. would all have been regular traits. Besides this, many wines would have 'The real high point of the day was the Cariñena, eonfirming my suffered from volatile acidity, brettanomyces and oxidation. TOday,less impressions during a visit to Priorat in May. Producers such as Alvaro than 15% of the wines showed the sins of the past. Palacios, and Ricard Rofes at Scala Dei, have built an international 'Priorat conveys a sense of uniqueness. The gradual abandonment pro file for their outstanding Garnachas, and until now this has obscured of French varieties in favour of Garnacha and Cariñena is a major reason the potential of the really glorious old Cariñena vines. for this genuine distinctiveness. Priorat is a niche wine, destined to 'Priorat will always be an iron fist inside its black glove. It will never become a rarity - and more expensive - once rieh emerging markets produce delicate, comfortable wines. But it has that all-too-rare quality: become aware of its value. It's a good time to get to know it now.' a real sense of place.' 114 I ovember 2015 • DECA TER Priorat Our experts found some of the older Entry criteria: vintages to be over the hill and they generally producers and Outstanding 18.5-20pts (95-100pts) recommended the younger ones. According UK agents were to Ballesteros: 'The oldest you can taste are invited to submit from the 1980s. There are some 1990s around, their latest-release and they were oxidised some 15 years ago; Priorat red wines now they are still oxidised, but they are also lovely!' Mansour added: '1 think the Priorat wines willlast, but will change rather than Costers del Priorat, Clos Cypres 2013 improve. The wines with more Cariñena will Don'tmiss last; they are still bright purple in colour.' Decanters Deeanter average seo re: 18.75/20pts (95+/1 00pts) The panel was unanimous; there is Spain and Individual judges' scores: Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW 18.5 Sarah nowhere else in the world that makes Portugal Jane Evans MW 18.5 Pierre Mansour 19 wines that taste like Priorat. Mansour felt FineWine NI A UK w w w.costersdelpriorat.com passionate about it: 'It's one of the most Encounter Winemaker José Mas Barbera joined Costers del Priorat (founded terroir-driven wines in the world. The wines The Landmark 2002) in 2007. He was drawn to Priorat as a region where he could share a wildness and herbiness, and a Hotel, London express the soil in the wine. Clos Cypres, 100% Cariñena from a distinct regional identity. They have a similar NW1, Saturday vineyard in Bellmunt planted in 1939, is fermented in 300-litre 27 February structure, weight, alcohol and generosity, amphorae and 500-litre old oak, befo re ageing in barriQue. Mas is 201611am-5pm and the fact that there is that consistency, searching for freshness: '1 believe in acidity, so I am the first to pick in An Ineredtble yet with differences, mark it out as a very opporluntly lo my village'; and for subtlety: '1 ferment with stems, but I handle the lasle more than high-Quality wine region.' Evans urged 300 wlnes 'rom top wine like an infusion'. Look out for Clos Cypres Cariñena from its Spanish wine lovers to buy: 'If you are producers. wlth vineyard in Torroja, coming next year. Masterela" and committed to Spain but don't want to drink DISeovery Theatre Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW Delicate in nose, peculiar, with garrigue Rioja, then Ribera del Duero seems to be the tlCkets avatlable. Book through WlVW. tones and floral hints. Balanced and open palate. Long, suave finish. second choice; but I would say to consumers, decanter.com/ if you want a top Quality region that's also events. or eall +44 Sarah Jane Evans MW Glorious blueberry aroma with a wild Cariñena (0)203148 4 513 established, for heaven's sake go to Priorat!' typicity. Finishes with fine grip of tannin; very balanced with a dark, savoury undertone. Pierre Mansour Deep bright colour, clean, pure nose, wonderful cherry notes with a wild herby aroma, savoury too; youthful. It has a tangy palate, intense cherry fruit, well-controlled and totally individual. Drink 2015-2025 AleohoI 14.5% Pierre Mansour Mansour spent four years with UK merchant 8erry 8ros &Rudd after an introduction to the wine trade in 1995 with the Antique Wine Company. He completed the WSET diploma in 1998 before joining wine visitor centre Joan Simó, Les Eres, Vinyes Velles 2010 18.75 (95+) Vinopolis as tastings manager. In 2000 PBT 18.5 SJE 19 PM 19 he moved to The Wine Society, before NI A UK w ww.cellerjoansimo.com taking on the role of buyer in 2004. He Owner Gerard Batllevel Simó's family sold its grapes to the local co-op. currently buys The Society's Spanish In 1999 he decided it was time to restore the basement of the family wines, among many others. home in the centre of Porrera and turn it into a winery. Working with family and friends, the first Les Eres was made that year, in five barreis Mansour's verdict bought from Priorat's founding father René Barbier. It was an instant 'rhis tasting totally exceeded my expectations, with a very solid set success. The wine is a blend of 90+ year-old Cariñena with Garnacha of wines. There is no doubt in my mind that this Catalan region has from Bellmunt, and some of the first Cabernet Sauvignon planted in come on in leaps and bounds. In many ways the styles being crafted Priorat (in El Molar in 1978). today are somewhat chaotic, but this is precisely the charm of Priorat: PBT Quite oaky, with notes of savia. Dense, rich, expressive, very these are some of the most individual and characterful wines in Spain. original and long on the palate. 'What has changed is the emphasis winemakers are placing on freshness and fruit flavours, rather than on oak, while still retaining SJE Lovely garrigue nose, with some florality too. This is a silky, supple the power, generosity and opulence that has made this region so wine with a lively freshness. At its right time now, with very fine purity famous. The wines seemed to fit loosely into two styles: those that of fruit. Very well integrated, very well handled. expressed a wonderful, wild, herby Mediterranean sense of place, PM Perfumed, highly scented nose, and wonderful herby Mediterranean and those that combined vibrancy and purity with an intensity of flavours. This has complexity, it's round and rich, yet elegant, complete, flavour. The Garnacha-dominant wines were more successful for long and superb. Outstanding! me, but I was bowled over by Cariñena in the blend and was left exhilarated by several single-varietal Cariñenas.' Drink 2015-2035 Ale 15% ~ DECA TER · ovember 2015 I 115 Decanter PANEL TASTING - Outstanding (continued) 18.5-20pts (95-100pts) village classification and Cal Batllet is currently the only winery to use 'Vi de Vila' for all its wines. The 5 Partides comes from five parcels that are farmed organically, and is aged for 16 months in new French oak. Just 2,800 bottles of the 2010 vintage were produced. PBT Serious, restrained, deep, complex aromas. Linear, austere, meaty, idiosyncratic, original and long. A distinctive wine. Cal Batllet, Gratallops, S Partides 2010 18.5 (95) SJE Dense, powerful nose, finely smoky. Palate is equally dense and PBT 18.5 SJE 18.5 PM 18.5 ripe. Powerfully bold wine, plump expression of Cariñena; grainy NI A UK mrlpoll ~calbatllet.cat tannins. Exceptionally long. Just at its right point. Cal Batllet (founded 2000) works out of the old family cellar in PM Wonderful nose, fine, floral, crisp palate, primary and youthful, a Gratallops, drawing on terraced vineyards up to 40 years old, and classic example of fine old-vine Priorat Cariñena. Plump and generous, slopes up to 100 years. Says Marc Ripoll Sans: 'Cariñena is our star this promises to age well. People willlove it. variety, because these oldest vines are on the steepest slopes in the warmest orientations.' He is a staunch defender of the 'Vi de Vila ' Drink 2015-2025 Ale 15% Highly Recommended 17-18.25pts(90-94pts) Familia Nin-Ortiz, Nit 2012 18.25 (94) Mas d'en Gil, Clos Fonta 2010 18 (93) Blai Ferré Just, Desnivel! 2010 PBT 18.5 SJE 18 PM 18 PBT 18 SJE 18 PM 18 17.5 (91) PBT 18 SJE 17 PM 17.5 E52.30 Bacchanalla, o Byrne & co, Handford, Honest E44.99 Ultracomida E29 .95 Davy's Grapes, Planet of the Grapes, The Sampler, Vagabond, Pure cassis nose with a delicate florallift. Fragrant nose with leathery undertones, Wine Source, Woodwinters Impressive on the palate, this is vivid and followed by a gorgeously fleshy palate that Glorious smoky nose. Bright, juicy with an powerful with great depth of fruit and an boasts a syrupy, spicy richness which lingers earthy, tarry background. Lively acidity and underlying tarry,liquorice tone, kept fresh by through the finish. Concentrated, and showing finely grained tannins. Dense yet fresh. Real a lively jab of acidity. Long, dense finish . Will impressive depth, this is one to keep. character and charm. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 15% keep. Drink 2015-2040 Alc 15% Drink 2015-2035 Alc 14.5% 'One could say the lil<.elihood of getting Clos del Portal, Tros de Clos 2012 Ferrer Bobet 2013 17.5 (91) 17.5 (91) PBT 18 SJE 18 PM 16.5 good quality when PBT 16.5 SJE 18 PM 18 E38 Genesis Wines POA Terra Wines Toasty new oak lends a smoky quality to the buying any Priorat Whistle-clean, youthful fruit on the nose with floral notes, underpinned by a brisk herbal a hint of new oak and some seductive floral edge. Vanilla fruit and velvety tannins. Dense, is above 80%' overtones. Rich, ripe and rounded in the silky with a long, complex finish. A polished, Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW mouth. Old-vine fruit is well-integrated with a modern style. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 14.5% dash of spice. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14.5% Balaguer i Cabré, La Guinardera Cal Pla, Mas d'en Compte 2012 Cartoixa de Montsalvat, 2010 17.25 (90+) PBT 18 SJE 17 PM 17 17.25 (90+) PBT 18 SJE 16.5 PM 17.5 Montgarnatx 2007 17.25 (90+) PBT 18 SJE 17.5 PM 16 NI A UK www.cellerbalaguercabre.blogspot.com E28 Handford, Jascots, Laytons, Spirlted Wlnes, Fine, discreet, very pure, red berry and spice Weavers NI A UK www.montsalvat.es aromas. Succulently fruity palate, lifted by Complex, tobacco-toned nose and an elegant Intense, original, wild and rus tic. Mature, rich vivid acidity and bright marmalade notes. Soft palate. Rich, chocolatey background, spicy cherry-toned palate with a chocolatey, earthy yet powerful with a long finish. Drink persistence and soft abundant tannins. Dense, background lending a warm savoury note. 2015-2030 Alc 15% driven and long. Drink 2015-2035 Alc 14.5% Drinking now. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14.5% 116 I ovember 2015 · DECA TER Priorat Highly Recommended 17-18.25pts (90-94pts) Clos Dominic, Vinyes Altes 2011 Clos del Portal, Somni 2012 17 (90) Costers del Priorat, Pissarres 2013 17.25 (90+) PBr 17.5 SJE 18 PM 16.5 PBr 16 SJE 18 PM 17 17 (90) PBr 18 SJE 17 PM 16 El O.1 5 Wimbledon Wlne Cellar f32 Genesls Wines f16.75 ViVlno Deep, concentrated and full of energy. rhe Fragrant, herbal toned nose with a hint of oak. rhe delicate nose belies a suave, deep and chewy fruit is driven by a bright, lemony rhe vibrant, polished, generous palate is a fine complex palate. This displays velvety smooth acidity across a spicy, leather-toned blend of blue and black fruit with a sprinkling tannins complemented by plump, sweet, background. With notably finely grained of pepper and spice. Lovely tannic grip along fleshy fruit and enticing mocha overtones. tannins, this is fully mature and ready for the backbone, followed by a bold finish. A lovely, bold expressive style here. hearty food. Drink 2015-2030 Ale 15% Drink 2015-2022 Ale 14.5% Drink 2015-2025 Ale 14.5% (The sty les being Família Nin-Ortiz, Planetes 2012 crafted today are Ferrer Bobet, Vinyes Velles 2013 17 (90) PBr 17 SJE 17 PM 17 17 (90) PBT 16 SJE 18 PM 17 E29.50 Baeehanalla, Bottle Apostle, o Byrne & Co, somewhat chaoticJ f32- f37 H2Vln, Selfrldges Fine & Rare, Honest Grapes, Lokl Wines, The Rural Vinlner, Smoky oak on the nose presages a spicy The Sampler, WoodWlnlers but this is the tobacco overtone on the palate. There's a Savoury tones on the nose carry across the J powerful overlay of expressive, silky blueberry palate where they are tempered by a bright charm of Priorat and rich dried fig character, along with a citrus attack, which delivers great freshness. Pi erre Mansour striking backbone of acidity keeping Individual, compelling and full of energy with a everything in check. Sig, bold, classic Priorat. long, lemony finish. Drink 2015-2020 Ale 14.5% Drink 2015-2025 Ale 14.5% Mas Doix, Doix 2012 17 (90) Mas Doix, Salanques 2012 17 (90) Torres, Perpetual2012 17 (90) PBr 17 SJE 17 PM 17 PBr 16.5 SJE 17 PM 17.5 PBT 17 SJE 17 PM 17 E720WLoeb&Co f32.20 OW Loeb& Co f25- f30 Amps Fine Wines, Templar Wlnes, Very appealing blueberry-fresh nose followed Intense, red-fruited aromas danee over notes The Good Wine Shop by a persistent, youthful pala te of juicy blaek of leather and taro rhe blackberry toned palate Deep, sensuous nose with layer upon layer of fruit. rhough rich, this retains a delicate has an equally tarry richness, brightened by a blackberry and spice. Long and languorous in elegance, which is enhanced by fine-grained fresh line of refreshing citrus acidity. Complex, the mouth. The finely built palate is rich ly silky tannins and the firmness of its dark finish. bold and generous with superb, harmonious with impressive chocolately richness, tempered Drink 2015-2025 Ale 14.5% length. Drink 2015-2020 Ale 14.5% by a lively, fresh lift. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 15% Recommended 15-16.75pts (83-89pts) Wlne Seo" PBT SJE PM Tastlnll note Ale Ortnk Prlce Stocklsts Alvaro Palacios, les Terrasses 2013 16.75 17 17 16 Elegant blueberry nose wlth a floral hft.lively. spicY. perslstent palale wllh 14.5" 201 5- E32 (89) nch red lrult. cnsp acldlty. firm tannlns and a rounded. chocolatey fonlsh 2020 CeUer Sabaté, Mas Plantadeta, 16.75 16 18 16 Blueberryand splCeonthenosewllhavlbranlsucculent.texturedpalateol 15" 2015- N/ AUK www_ tLCom Negre Roure 2012 (89) plums. Lovely herbal hft. Otsllnctrve and individual. calhng lor hearty lood. 2020 Clos Flgueras, Fonl de la Flguera 2012 16.75 17 16 17 Appeahng comblnation 01 blackberry and liquorice wlth a waft 01 smoky oak. 15" 2015- E14.95 Gtotvos fIIrI>iof (89) Dense and neh with savoury. gralny tannlns and a long. IrUlly fomsh. 2025 Domlnl de la Cartolxa, Crossos 2012 16.75 18 16.5 15.5 RICh. savoury. unrelentlngly dark. Opens up wlth tncreastng complextty and 14.5" 2015- 86.95 McIOMy V1ntntn (89) nchness delovenng dtSllnctlve tobacco and herbal notes. Super forrn finish. 2030 Mas d'en Blel, Ble1 20 11 16.75 17 17.5 16 Altracttve aromas 01mln t and lavender. Dense sweet black lrutt wtth a blast 14" 2015- El049 (89) 01 eltrus and an appeahng touch 01 qUince. Has a Iovely earthy background. 2025 (2010) - ~ DE C A T ER . o v e mb e r 2 O 1 5 I 1 1 7 Dernnter PANEL TASTING Mytopthree Mytopthree Mytopthree Pedro Ballesteros Sarah Jane Evans MW Pierre Mansour Torres MW • Joan Slmó, Les Eres, Vlnyes Velles • Costers del Prlorat, Clos Cypres • Cal Batllet, Gratallops, S Partldes 2010 A delight to encounter in a blind 2013 This wine shows just why Cariñena 2010 A refined Cariñena expression, iron tasting: a wine with a real sense of its is so special in Priorat. A deep, vibrant red fist in velvet glove. Long and complex, it Mediterranean origino Powerful, but with great purity and fragrance, packed will improve over at least eight years. But nevertheless silky in the mouth, with a full of red fruit and wild herb flavours, all its most relevant attribute is that it shouts finishing lift of freshness. An original, one supported by the fine, refreshing aCidity of its unique Priorat origino 18.5/20 that could only come from here. typical of top-quality Cariñena. (95/100) Drink 2015-2020 18.75/20 (95+/ 100) Drink 2015-2035 18.75/ 20 (95+/ 100) Drink 2015-2025 • Famnia Nln-Ortlz, Nlt 2012 • Ferrer Bobet, Vinyes Velles 2013 • Joan Simó, Les Eres, Vinyes Velles Top-quality Priorat, dense and deep, A consistent favourite. The intense 2010 Les Eres is the steep vineyard finely grained, multi-Iayered, and yet built blueberry purity of old-vine Cariñena planted more than 90 years ago to upon freshness and what many people gains a burst of energy from Garnacha. Cariñena and Garnacha. Though Joan call minerality. Keep it as long as you wish This is a blend that speaks of Priorat's Simó is a small set-up, judging by the - it will be great for decades. history and pro mises much for its future. high quality of the scented, complex 18.25 (94) Drink 2015-2030 17 (90) Drink 2015-2025 2010, we can expect to hear more about it. 18.75 (95+) Dri nk 2015-2035 • Mas d'En Gil, Clos Font:t 2010 • Mas Dolx, Dolx 2012 A property with Impressively solid and round, with real a fine selection of old Cariñena growing • Cal Pla, Mas d'En Compte 2012 delicacy. A classic - one of the early in a cooler. fresher zone. The classic blend The Cal Pla vineyards are in the heart of masters of modern Priorat. Top quality, f Cariñena with Garnacha, terrifically Priorat on the red slate 'lIicorella' soils for sound investment. Keep if you can for 10 elegant and refined, with a dark. liquorice which this region is famous. This is a years or more. 18 (93) Drink 2015-2040 finish. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2025 classic expression, mostly Cariñena and ~ ----' Garnacha with a little Cabernet. Lovely tobacco notes with a round, rich, dense NB: the tasters' top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learn ing palate. 17.25 (90+) Dri nk 2015-2035 the wines' identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors Expert summary: Sarah Jane Evans MW The ado ption by Priorat's winemakers of an in creas in gly hands-off approach is alread y bearing fru it. with less new oak and better overa ll ba lance in the wines PRIORA T HAS AL WA YS been about the vineyard and On the other hand, it was impressive to see some the soil. What has changed is the human factor, the producers reach 17+ points with both wines submitted winemaking. Back in 2011, most of the newer styles of (each producer was allowed to enter two wines). Priorat were still to be released. This year, however, we Congratulations, then, to Costers del Priorato Familia could taste the development. The transition to slower Nin-Ortiz, Ferrer Bobet, Clos del Portal and Mas Doix for fermentations, less pumping over, less man-handling in their consistent success. general is apparent. Some producers are using amphorae, In summary, it is excellent to see that of 100 wines, so others concrete fermenters. Many more are using larger many can be confidently recommended. Disappointingly, vessels, foudres, and old oak. AII of these leave only a 10% of the wines rated only Fair, some well-known wines slight imprint and allow the origin to be expressed. that ha ve shone at other times. It's worth stressing that The tasting is a terrific result for Cariñena (commonly wherever there's doubt in a panel tasting, a second bottle Sarah Jane Evans MW is known also as Samsó and Carinyena). Until recently it is always opened to give the wine a fighting chanceo a regu lar Decanter was as unloved as Garnacha for its rusticity - watch In all, a fascinating tasting. Priorat's total production contributor, DWWA these two fight it out for top billing over the coming years. is smaller than just one large Rioja wine brand. It is just Reg ional co-Chair for In terms of vintages, 2010 did well, producing two 25 years old, in its current form, and thanks to its Spain and Sherry, and out of the three Outstanding choices. But so did the 2012 complex soils it offers a thrilling selection of original chair of the Institute of and even the super-youthful 2013. In contrast there was wines. Take the time to discover, or rediscover them. m Ma sters of Wine only one 2007 and one 2011 in the Highly Recommendeds - the panel had much less confidence in those submitted. Many of the established na mes were present. Yet (A terrific result for Cariñena, surprisingly some of Priorat's famous na mes failed to until recently as unloved as make it into the Highly Recommended category: Alvaro Palacios, Clos Figueras, Mas Alta all just missed 17 points. Garnachafor its rusticity' 120 I ovember 2015 · DECA TER