Emirates Open Skies: Baku, Old City

28  GLOBAL  EXPLORATION

NEIGHBOURHOOD BAKU 40.4093° N, 49.8671° E

With an eclectic mix of ancient history, art, flavoursome food and the F1 – Baku holds appeal for a variety of travellers Old City, Baku WORDS: SOFIA LEVIN IMAGES: SOFIA LEVIN & GETTY IMAGES

OS_022020_P28-34_Neighbour_Baku.indd 28 1/23/20 2:35 PM DID YOU KNOW? Baku’s currency is modelled on Euros with their size and colour. However, each Manat note is themed with characteristics of its national identity. You’ll find excerpts from the national anthem and images of a sword, shield and helmet to signify power.

Ask someone to point out Baku on a map and there’s a good chance they’ll take a few minutes. It’s Azerbaijan’s most eastern point that juts out into the Caspian Sea, across the water from Turkmenistan. Each year it hosts the Azerbaijan F1 Grand Prix, but the city holds appeal well beyond car enthu- siasts. Icheri Sheher, the Old City, is Baku’s historical centre, with many of its 12th-century defensive walls still intact. Within these fortifications are the ancient jewels of Azerbaijan, the Maiden Tower and Shirvanshahs’ Pal- ace, but also a creative community, local craft stores and even entrepre- neurs touting Azeri caviar. Visitors can stop for a quick qutab (charred, stuffed flatbread) served from a window for a single manat; pause for tea taken with spoonfuls of jam or indulge in an au- thentic feast with a side of traditional entertainment. Baku itself is a confection of inter- esting buildings that range from centu- ries-old stone, to brutalist remnants of the Soviet era, to modern architectural masterpieces that wouldn’t be out of place in Dubai. Nothing is far, whether it be the sprawling local market, Taza Bazar, or bustling Nizami Street, lined with international designer shops, res- START taurants and hotels. Neftchilar Avenue separates the Old City from the Cas- TAZA BAZAR pian Sea and leads to the Baku Boule- vard, where people stroll past historical To shop like a local, go where the locals points of interest and watch the sunset. shop. Expect to get lost among stalls of The metro and bus systems are straight- fresh produce, pyramids of dried fruits forward and cost 0.30 manat (20¢) re- and teas, baskets of pomegranates, gardless of where you ride, while taxis open-air meat and fish sections, tables are usually less than 10 manat (US$6) of traditional cheese, giant jars of pick- within Baku. Spend a few days in this les and even caviar. It’s an assault on city and you’ll soon realise that while the senses and a photographer’s dream. it’s unmistakably familiar, Baku re- Corner Salatin Asgarova and Səməd mains unlike anywhere else. 1 Vurğun, Baku

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AZERBAIJAN NATIONAL MAIDEN TOWER CARPET MUSEUM Standing at 29 metres tall over eight sto- There’s a saying in Azerbaijan, “home reys, you might spot this iconic stone is where your carpet is spread”. The tower on the back of your manat before Carpet Museum is a testament to the you see it in person. There’s debate importance of the carpet throughout around when it was built, but it’s gen- Azerbaijan’s history and culture. The erally agreed that the lower part dates museum opened in 1967 and relocated to the 6th century and that most of the to the waterfront in an impressive build- structure was completed in the 12th ing shaped like a rolled carpet in 2014. century. It’s thought that the Maiden Inside the oldest rug dates from the 17th Tower was originally a temple and then century, while modernist works portray a defence tower – the walls are five me- daily life and fairytale-like scenes. Stop tres thick at the base. Called Qız Qalası to admire the trio of famed Flame Tow- in Azeri, head inside to admire the mul- ers from the entrance. timedia installations in the museum. 28 Mikayıl Hüseynov Prospekti, Baku, Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 11 75, +994 12 497 20 57, azcarpetmuseum.az 3 icherisheher.gov.az

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MUĞAM CLUB

It’s as much about the atmosphere as the traditional food at this two-storey caravanserai restaurant, with glimpses of the Maiden Tower from the sheltered courtyard. Sit beside a fountain and fig trees strung with fairy lights while tuck- ing into dishes like dushbere (dumpling soup) and ciz-biz (fried and diced offal with potato). Book ahead and visit in the evening for traditional performances. 9 Hagigat Rzayeva, Baku, +994 12 492 40 85, mugamrestaurant.com

DID YOU KNOW? The best way to see Baku is from its waterways. Take a gondola through its own Little Venice, a man-made waterway that flows between shops and restaurants and is connected by bridges and walkways. 5 AN EIGHT-MINUTE WALK

PALACE OF THE SHIRVANSHAHS

Stroll through Icheri Sheher to this restored, 15th century palace where Azerbaijan’s dynasty ruled, bathed, and cohabitated in the Middle Ages. Through the main courtyard there’s a wonderful view across sandstone domes to the Flame Towers, while in- side are exhibitions with audiovisual flourishes. Explore the Divankhana pavilion, burial vaults, mosque, mau- soleum and hamam ruins. Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 11 75, icherisheher.gov.az

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MUSEUM OF MINIATURE BOOKS

This small, obscure museum of more than 5,700 tiny books, courtesy of the personal collection of Zarifa Salahova, is worth 10 minutes if you’re in the Old City. Most require a magnifying glass to read. There’s a whole library’s worth of books from fairy tales and Shakespeare to philosophy and worship. 67 1st Castle Lane, Icheri Sheher, Baku, +994 12 492 94 64, minibooks.az

WRESTLE YOUR WAY IN Arm wrestling is a serious business in Baku’s gyms and bars. The city is home to the Armwrestling Federation, who host the country’s professional league. 8 A 14-MINUTE TAXI

HEYDAR ALIYEV CENTRE

You could spend half a day at Baku’s most famous building and cultural centre, designed by renowned archi- tect Zaha Hadid. It’s not hard to be- 7 lieve there wasn’t a single straight line A TWO-MINUTE WALK used in its design. The abstract, white structure bends and curves at different ALI SHAMSI STUDIO angles, causing it to seemingly change shape. Inside is a museum dedicated Baku is an artistic city and if you stop to Azerbaijan’s history and the life of in at this workshop you’re likely to meet Heydar Aliyev, as well as multiple exhi- the artist himself. Ali Shamsi paints bition halls that might include classic bold, colourful canvases with dreams- cars, photography, traditional musical cape-like subject matter of piercing eyes instruments or puppets from around and pomegranates. He’ll pose for a pho- the world. Keep an eye out for musical to, and will likely ask you to do the same. performances, too. 28 Kichik Qala, Baku, +994 50 478 14 78, 1 Heydar Aliyev Ave, Baku, +994 12 505 60 ali-shamsi.com 01, heydaraliyevcenter.az

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9 A NINE-MINUTE TAXI

ŞIRVANŞAH MUZEY-RESTORAN

Part museum, part historic building and part restaurant, this is Baku’s most unique dining experience. Once a 19th century bathhouse, it’s now a maze of A SEVEN-MINUTE TAXI 18 painstakingly decorated and themed dining rooms decked out in original KEFLI LOCAL WINE AND artefacts and Soviet-era paraphernalia. SNACKS If you’re with a group, call ahead and 10 order shakh plov, a “royal pilaf” served This cosy local watering hole is the place like a crusted cake. to try local drops. There are more than 20 86 Salatın Əsgərova, Baku, wines available by the glass for between +994 12 595 09 01, facebook.com/ 2.50 and 5 manat (US$1.50 to $3), plus shirvanshahmuzeyrestoran many more bottles and specials (like the pomegranate wine). Don’t forget to try the local cheese and charcuterie boards. 4a Terlan Eliyarbeyov, Baku, +994 51 308 99 09, facebook.com/kefliwinebar

BAKU

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