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Understanding the Effects of Wind Intensity, Forward Speed, Pressure and Track on Generation and Propagation of Hurricane Irma Surges Around Florida

Understanding the Effects of Wind Intensity, Forward Speed, Pressure and Track on Generation and Propagation of Hurricane Irma Surges Around Florida

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

Article Understanding the Effects of Wind Intensity, Forward Speed, Pressure and Track on Generation and Propagation of Surges around

Abram Musinguzi 1, Madinah Shamsu 1, Muhammad K. Akbar 1,* and Jason G. Fleming 2

1 Department of Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering, State University, Nashville, TN 37209, USA; [email protected] (A.M.); [email protected] (M.S.) 2 Seahorse Coastal Consulting, 3103 Mandy Ln, Morehead City, NC 28557, USA; jason.fl[email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-615-963-5392

Abstract: In this study, it is demonstrated that hurricane wind intensity, forward speed, pressure, and track play an important role on the generation and propagation of coastal storm surges. Hurricane Irma, which heavily impacted the entire Florida peninsula in 2017, is used to study the sensitivity to varying storm characteristics. Results show that the west coast experiences a negative surge due to offshore wind of the approaching storm, but the positive surge returns after the hurricane passes over a location and wind became onshore. In the west coast peak, surges are intensified  by an increase in onshore wind intensity and forward speed. In the , peak surges are  intensified by an increase in wind intensity, a decrease in forward speed and a decrease in pressure. Citation: Musinguzi, A.; Shamsu, M.; In southeast and , peak surges are intensified by decrease in pressure, although overall Akbar, M.K.; Fleming, J.G. surges are less significant as the water can slide along the coastline. In the recessed coastline of Understanding the Effects of Wind -, maximum surge is elevated by an increase in onshore wind intensity. Shifting the Intensity, Forward Speed, Pressure track westward increases peak surges on the west coast, while shifting the track eastward increases and Track on Generation and peak surge on the east coast. The results demonstrate a new understanding about the sensitivity of Propagation of Hurricane Irma surge to varying parametric conditions and the importance of considering changes in the coastline Surges around Florida. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963. https://doi.org/ orientation in storm surge predictions. 10.3390/jmse9090963 Keywords: storm surge; wind intensity; forward speed; surface pressure; track; hurricane Irma Academic Editors: Eugen Rusu and Christos Stefanakos

Received: 27 July 2021 1. Introduction Accepted: 1 September 2021 A storm surge, an abnormal rise of water generated by a storm, over and above Published: 4 September 2021 the predicted astronomical tide, depends on several factors including storm intensity, size, surface pressure, forward speed, track and angle of approach, location and Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral bathymetry [1]. As a storm proceeds out of the tropics, both hurricane forward speed and with regard to jurisdictional claims in the hurricane track angle relative to the coast strongly influence the propagation of the published maps and institutional affil- wind directions. Other important factors that are expected to influence coastal storm surges iations. include the attributes of the coastal landscape such local geographical features, and the shape of the coastline [1–3]. Lessons from several different recent hurricanes indicate that surge-induced inun- dation in coastal zones cannot be solely estimated from the Saffir–Simpson hurricane Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. scale [4] that relies on the maximum storm wind speed as the only determining factor. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. For many decades, both research and operational forecasting have heavily relied on the This article is an open access article Saffir–Simpson scale to determine peak surges. The National Hurricane Center’s (NHC) distributed under the terms and determining factor in the scale is solely based on the speed, conditions of the Creative Commons defined as maximum 1-min wind at the standard meteorological observation height of Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// 10 m [5]. While the above scale has been widely used as a management tool for alerting creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ the public about the possible impacts of hurricane damage based on wind speed, it offers 4.0/).

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9090963 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/jmse J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 2 of 24

a limited consideration of other important parameters such as forward speed, track, and storm size, which often lead to serious over or under prediction of surges, and to a false public perception of safety. For example, (2005), a category 3 storm and (2012), a category 1 storm, produced a much higher storm surge than Hurricane Irma (2017), a category 5 storm. A numerical experiment was conducted on (2005) to investigate the im- pact of wind intensity, forward speed, radius of maximum winds, tidal timing, amplitude, and wind inflow angle on inundation over a wide and shallow shelf. It was concluded that varying a storm’s forward motion may account for variations in flooded volumes equivalent to an upgrade or downgrade of about 1 category on the Saffir–Simpson scale [6]. Flooding due to variations in forward speed is associated with the duration over which the storm impacts the coastal zones. Slower storms cause lower peak surges that push more water far inland and inundate large sections of the coast, while faster storms increase peak surges on the shoreline but inundate narrower sections of the coast [6–8]. For instance, a 25% decrease in forward speed caused a 0.25–0.5 m increase in peak surges in bays, lakes, and rivers, while a 25% increase in forward speed increased the nearshore peak surges by 0.25–0.5 m during Hurricane Rita [7]. Thomas et al. [8] demonstrated that, for (2016), a long shore-parallel storm, faster storm increased peak water levels along the coast, but a slower storm pushed more water into the estuaries and bays. When hurricane winds and steering winds travel in the same direction, the forward speed adds to the strength of the winds on the right side of the storm [9]. The increased winds on the right side due to the additive effect of the forward speed increases the storm surge. A pioneer study [7] investigated the combined effect of wind speed and forward speed on the storm surge impacts of Hurricane Rita in and the coast on the , by simultaneously decreasing or increasing wind speed and forward speed. The study observed a 1.5 m increase in storm surge when both parameters were increased by 25%, but the opposite happened when both parameters were decreased by 25%. The combined effect of wind speed and forward speed was more evident on the east side of land fall where counterclockwise winds are stronger. However, the study observed that simultaneously increasing wind intensity and decreasing forward speed has the greatest effect on storm surge, since the hurricane has the strength and time to push the surge inland. Sebastian et al. [10] numerically examined the effect of track and wind speed of (2008) along the Texas coast. The study explored the effect of the track with various landfall locations both east and west of the original landfall. They determined that shifting the storm westward causes higher levels of surge due to more intense, higher shore-normal winds. The study further observed that increasing wind speeds by 15% results in an approximately 23% increase in surge. Irish et al. [11] used idealized hurricanes to perform a sensitivity analysis of storm surge to hurricane storm size (radius of winds), track, and forward speed for different bottom slopes. Their results showed that for a given shelf slope, the peak surge increases by up to 30% as the storm size increases, indicating that storm size effectively increases the distance over which the wind acts. The nature and slope of the plays a critical role to the magnitude of hurricane storm surges. For example, the effects of surge-induced inundation tend to be greater when winds act on a wide and gentle sloping continental shelf [12]. In contrast, hurricane-driven storm surges and waves adjacent to deep islands, are highly influenced by the pressure deficit of the hurricanes [13]. A study examined the impact of Hurricane Irma on the Florida peninsula and found that storm surges on the west coast of Florida were distinctly different from those on the east coast [14]. The study determined that barometric pressure had a limited effect on storm surge along the west coast. On both east and west coasts, onshore winds brought a positive surge. Offshore winds, which happened on the west coast, brought negative surges. Shore perpendicular winds had a larger impact on surges than shore parallel winds. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 3 of 24

The goal of the current study is to understand the impact of wind intensity, forward speed, pressure, and track on the generation and propagation of Hurricane Irma storm surges, focusing around the Florida peninsula, which has not been done in previous studies. First, the effects of individual parameters are explored, and then the combined effects of wind intensity, forward speed, pressure and track are studied by simultaneously increasing or decreasing each of parameter. The results demonstrate the sensitivity of Irma’s surge-induced inundation in different regions around Florida to storm parameters and track. The current investigation is a part of a series of studies using different hurricanes aimed to understand the generation and propagation of hurricane storm surges. At the end of the series, a comprehensive article is expected to be published summarizing the pseudo-generalized understanding of the topic. The remainder of the paper proceeds as follows. An overview of Irma’s synoptic history and its impacts is provided in Section2. The methodology for numerical experi- mentation is presented in Section3. Section4 presents results, and Section5 summarizes study findings.

2. Irma Synoptic History The synoptic history described in this paper is based on the National Hurricane Center’s Hurricane Irma report [15]. Hurricane Irma took place between 1 September 2017 to 13 September 2017. It originated from a that departed the west coast of on 27 August 2017. By 0000 UTC 30 August 2017, it developed into a tropical depression, and after cyclogenesis, the depression became a tropical storm 6 h later. It rapidly intensified and by 5 September 2017 Irma had attained category 5 status, reaching its maximum intensity of 178 mph when it was located about 80 mile east–southeast of Barbuda. After making its first land fall in Barbuda, Irma maintained category 5 status and caused widespread devastation as it passed through Barbuda, the British Virgin Islands, north of and the . Irma ended its 60 h period of sustained category 5 intensity, which is the second longest such period on record behind the 1932 Hurricane of Santa Cruz del Sur. Thereafter, it weakened to a category 4 status while moving through the southern Bahamas, but regained category 5 status as it turned westwards toward Cuba after only 18 h. Irma made its fifth landfall near Cayo Romano, Cuba, at 0300 UTC on 9 September 2017. As Irma tracked along the Cuban Keys, its interaction with land caused significant structural changes and weakening, first to a category 4 storm a few hours after landfall in the Cuban Keys and then down to a category 2 hurricane. This was followed by a subsequent slowdown in the forward speed, and a track change to the northwest, which caused the core of the hurricane to move over the Florida Straits by 10 September 2017. As it moved over the warm waters in the Florida Straits, the hurricane intensified again to category 4 status, making its first of two U.S. near Cudjoe Key, Florida, at 1300 UTC on 10 September 2017. The category 4 storm made its second and final U.S. landfall in near Marco Island, at 1930 UTC on 10 September 2017. Once inland over southwestern Florida, Irma weakened quickly, due to the influences of land and strong , and by 0000 UTC on 11 September 2017 it downgraded to a category 2 hurricane, and then to a category 1 storm 6 h later. Irma continued to weaken, falling to a tropical storm by 1200 UTC on 11 September 2017 as it moved across northern Florida, most of the deep being located well to the northeast of the center, and the strongest winds were confined to the northeast coast of Florida and southeastern Georgia [15]. It weakened into a remnant low by 0600 UTC 12 September 2017. The remnant low continued northwestward while weakening, and dissipated shortly after 1200 UTC 13 September 2017. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 4 of 24

3. Methodology 3.1. Mesh and Hydrodynamic Model This study uses the Hurricane Surge On-Demand Forecasting System (HSOFS) mesh [16], which is prepared to be used in an Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC) model for operational surge and tide predictions for the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico. The mesh covers the US coast from Maine through Texas and it has 3,564,104 and 1,813,443 nodes and elements, respectively. The mesh has an average resolution of 500 m along the coast, with some areas decreasing to a resolution of 150 m. The HSOFS is a reasonably acceptable mesh for the storm surge study around the Florida peninsula, as shown in Figure1a. The ADCIRC and Simulating Waves Nearshore (ADCIRC + SWAN) is a tightly cou- pled model used to simulate waves and storms. ADCIRC uses the continuous-Galerkin finite element method to solve shallow-water equations to model hurricane storm surges on unstructured meshes [17,18]. The wind drag formulation of Powell, with a cap of 0.0028, is adopted in this study, as was done in previous studies [3,19]. A spatially varying Manning’s n bottom friction is based on the Coastal Change Analysis Program (CCAP) regional land cover data. The SWAN model is a third-generation wave model [20], which is tightly coupled with ADCIRC to produce random, short-crested wind-generated waves on top of storm surges. SWAN uses the same HSOFS mesh as ADCIRC for the meteorological, bottom friction, water level and current. The ADCIRC Manning’s n values are converted to roughness lengths and used in SWAN. The Komen formulation is used for white cap- ping; dissipation by death-induced breaking and bottom friction are activated; and three wave–wave interactions (triads) are activated [20]. The numerical propagation scheme is first order backward space backward time. The timestep for SWAN is set to 600 s for all simulations. The spectral space is discretized using 36 directional bins witha directional resolution of 10◦ and 30 frequency bins with a logarithmic resolution over the range 0.03 to 0.55 Hz. Note that ADCIRC + SWAN is used in the study simply to incorporate the contri- bution of waves in the storm surges. Studying the wave characteristics is not currently a part of the investigation.

3.2. Meteorological Forcing ADCIRC requires the specification of a meteorological input file with wind velocity and fields. Configuration of parameters of wind intensity fields are modified by increasing or decreasing the multiplier in the meteorological input file. The surface pressure can be increased or decreased by applying a variable pressure multiplier in the ADCIRC source code, as was described in [7]. The time increment of the meteorological forcing is specified through a meteorological wind time interval. This parameter can be con- trolled in the model parameter and a periodic boundary condition file to vary the forward speed of the storm. Details of these files can be found in ADCIRC documentation [21]. The Interactive Objective Kinematic Analysis (IOKA) by Ocean weather Inc. (OWI), a data-assimilated wind model for the meteorological forcing, is used in the present study. In this model, wind and surface pressure fields are generated based on observations from anemometers, airborne and land-based Doppler radar, microwave radiometers, buoys, ships, aircraft, coastal stations, and satellite measurements [22,23]. Studies [3,19] found OWI wind and pressure fields to be the best for hurricane Rita hindcast based on error statistics and correlation coefficient. Similarly, the OWI is found to be a reasonably good representation of the atmospheric forcing for Hurricane Matthew and matched well with the observed time series of surface pressures and wind speeds [8]. Therefore, the OWI wind field is considered as the reference meteorological forcing for Hurricane Irma in the present study. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 5 of 24

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 5 of 24

(b)

Figure 1. ComputationalFigure 1. Computational mesh, mesh, tracks tracks and and observation observation stations, stations, (a) HSOFS (a) HSOFS mesh and mesh focus and area focus (green area box), (green(b) Focus box), area (b) Focus and observation station locations with respect to hurricane Irma track and two hypothetical tracks. The original track area and observation(Track) and hypothetical station locations tracks TE with and TW respect shifted to 5° hurricane east and we Irmast of original track and track, two respectively. hypothetical tracks. The original track (Track) and hypothetical tracks TE and TW shifted 5◦ east and west of original track, respectively. 3.2. Meteorological Forcing DifferentADCIRC cases requires are the simulated specification in whichof a meteorological four major input hurricane file with parameters wind velocity are varied: (1) windand atmospheric intensity, (2)pressure forward fields. speed, Configuration (3) surface of parameters pressure, of and wind (4) intensity track. fields Table are1 shows the summarymodified of theby increasing experimental or decreasing cases simulated.the multiplier Case in the 1 ismeteorological the reference input simulation file. The in which the originalsurface pressure values can (i.e., be 100%increase windd or decreased intensity, by 100%applying forward a variable speed, pressure 100% multiplier pressure, actual in the ADCIRC source code, as was described in [7]. The time increment of the meteoro- track)logical of OWI forcing wind is specified field data through are maintained. a meteorological In Caseswind time 2 through interval. 9, This individual parameter parameters can be controlled in the model parameter and a periodic boundary condition file to vary the forward speed of the storm. Details of these files can be found in ADCIRC documen- tation [21]. The Interactive Objective Kinematic Analysis (IOKA) by Ocean weather Inc. (OWI), a data-assimilated wind model for the meteorological forcing, is used in the present study. In this model, wind and surface pressure fields are generated based on observations from anemometers, airborne and land-based Doppler radar, microwave radiometers, buoys, ships, aircraft, coastal stations, and satellite measurements [22,23]. Studies [3,19] found OWI wind and pressure fields to be the best for hurricane Rita hindcast based on error statistics and correlation coefficient. Similarly, the OWI is found to be a reasonably good representation of the atmospheric forcing for Hurricane Matthew and matched well with the observed time series of surface pressures and wind speeds [8]. Therefore, the OWI wind field is considered as the reference meteorological forcing for Hurricane Irma in the present study. Different cases are simulated in which four major hurricane parameters are varied: (1) wind intensity, (2) forward speed, (3) surface pressure, and (4) track. Table 1 shows the summary of the experimental cases simulated. Case 1 is the reference simulation in which

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are changed one at a time. Since Irma was already a powerful storm, only a 10% wind intensity increment is considered. Forward speed is increased and decreased by 25% and 10%, respectively. The minimum surface pressure is varied at increments of 3.3%, although the local surface pressure multiplier depends on the distance from the hurricane eye. The pressure change is performed using a rectangular hyperbola distribution, as described in [7]. To examine the influence of the path and track of Irma, the track along the coast is shifted, to explore two landfall scenarios both east and west of the original landfall (Figure1b). Two hypothetical tracks, TE and TW, are created by manually shifting the track 5◦ east and west with respect to the original track. The shift originates from the hurricane eye location about 48 h before the Florida landfall time of 1800 UTC on 10 September 2017. The original Irma track has the landfall in the southwest of Florida, as shown in Figure1b. The TE track goes over the center of the Florida peninsula and the TW track goes along the west coast of Florida. These 5◦ shifted tracks are chosen to provide two good variations of the original track.

Table 1. Parametric combinations used for different cases.

Parameters Case Wind Intensity Forward Speed Pressure Track 1 100% 100% 100% 100% 2 110% 100% 100% 100% 3 90% 100% 100% 100% 4 100% 90% 100% 100% 5 100% 125% 100% 100% 6 100% 100% 96.7% 100% 7 100% 100% 103.3% 100% 8 100% 100% 100% 5◦ West 9 100% 100% 100% 5◦ East 10 90% 90% 100% 100% 11 110% 125% 100% 100% 12 90% 125% 100% 100% 13 110% 90% 100% 100% 14 100% 90% 96.7% 100% 15 110% 90% 96.7% 100%

In Cases 10 through 15, wind intensity, forward speed and pressure are simultaneously changed to examine their combined effects on the hindcasted surge. Note that some other combinations were run, but only the most impactful cases are presented here for brevity. Each simulation is cold-started from 0000 UTC 16 July 2017, with a 50.5-day tides-only period that allows the tides to reach a dynamic equilibrium. A hot-start file is created from this run. This is followed by a 7.5-day Irma simulation from 1200 UTC 04 September 2017 to 0000 UTC 12 September 2017. Although ADCIRC is hot-started from the tide only run file created previously, the SWAN run is cold-started with the wave field set to zero at 1200 UTC 04 September 2017 [24].

3.3. Model Validation The agreement between the modeled and observed water levels is quantified using three statistical performance indicators: Coefficient of Determination (R2); Mean Normal- 2 ized Bias (BMN); and Root Mean Square Error (ERMS). Coefficient of Determination (R ) describes how well a regression line fits a set of data and has an ideal value of one. Mean J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 7 of 24

Normalized Bias (BMN) indicates the model’s magnitude of overprediction or underpredic- tion, normalized to the observed value, with an ideal value of zero, and is expressed as

1 ∑N E B = N i=1 i MN 1 N (1) N ∑i |Oi|

Root Mean Square Error (ERMS) is an indication of the magnitude of error, with an ideal value of zero; and can be expressed as

N 1 2 ERMS = ∑ Ei (2) N i=1

where O is the observed value, E is the error in terms of simulated minus observed and N is the number of datapoints. In previous studies, such as [2,7], the above statistics were used to validate the model performance by utilizing only the wet stations or points, which is called the wet-only method. In this method, error statistics are computed only at locations wetted by ADCIRC + SWAN. A total of 47 HWM points are distributed along the South Florida coast, as shown in Figure1b.

4. Results 4.1. Evolution of Maximum Winds and Water Levels In Figure2, the contour plots of Cases 2, 1 and 3 show the effect of increasing wind intensity on maximum wind velocity magnitude and maximum water elevation of storm surges that happen at every mesh node over the entire duration of the hurricane. For brevity, the rest of the cases are not shown in this figure, since the wind intensity remains the same for all as that of Case 2. The increase in wind intensity increases the effect of maximum winds, which is observed by the relative distance of contour lines 20 m/s (or 30 m/s) from the hurricane track in Figure2a,c, and e. In a previous study [ 7], authors found that the storm size was inadvertently increased due to a linear increase of the wind intensity multiplier. This finding holds true in this study as well. The maximum water elevation increases with the wind intensity due to a stronger overland push in the southwest end of the Florida peninsula and in the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, as a comparative study of Figure2b,d, and f shows. Similar findings for Rita hindcast studies were reported by Rego et al. [6] and Irish et al [11], who observed that the effect of varying wind intensity on a storm surge is similar in magnitude to that of varying the radius of maximum wind along the coast of Louisiana. As reported in [14,15], the east coast experienced a positive surge due to onshore wind perpendicular to the shoreline, whereas the west coast mostly experienced a negative surge (Figure2 does not show it) due to offshore winds. The positive surge returned on the west coast after the hurricane eye passed a location and onshore wind pushed the water towards the coast. On the southeast coast of Florida, water was able to slide up north, which minimized the surge height, if any. In the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline there was a funnel effect, which helped water accumulation, leading to a high surge, although the location is a bit away from the storm path. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 8 of 24 J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 8 of 24

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

(e) (f)

FigureFigure 2. Effect2. Effect of of wind wind intensity intensity on on the the maximummaximum wind ve velocitylocity magnitude magnitude and and maximum maximum water water elevation; elevation; (a,b (a) ,Caseb) Case 2, 2, (c,d) Case 1, and (e,f) Case 3. Left column: maximum wind velocity magnitude; right column: maximum water elevations. (c,d) Case 1, and (e,f) Case 3. Left column: maximum wind velocity magnitude; right column: maximum water elevations. Relevant contour lines are displayed in each figure. Relevant contour lines are displayed in each figure. The wind intensity and its impact on storm surge is further demonstrated by snap- The wind intensity and its impact on storm surge is further demonstrated by snapshots shots of wind velocity vectors and velocity magnitude color plots at the landfall times, as of wind velocity vectors and velocity magnitude color plots at the landfall times, as shown shown in Figure 3 for Cases 2 and 3. Hurricane Irma made a landfall in Florida Keys at in Figure3 for Cases 2 and 3. Hurricane Irma made a landfall in Florida Keys at 1300UTC 1300UTC on 10 September 2017 near Cudjoe Key, then a final landfall near Marco Island onin 10southwest September Florida, 2017 nearat 1930 Cudjoe UTC Key,on 10 then September a final landfall2017. Asymmetric near Marco and Island anticlockwise in southwest Florida,rotating at wind 1930 with UTC stronger on 10 September right-side patterns 2017. Asymmetric are observed and at anticlockwiseboth landfalls in rotating Figure wind3. withHowever, stronger it can right-side be noticed patterns that the are wind observed is stronger at both during landfalls the landfall in Figure in Florida3. However, Keys it can(Figure be noticed 3a,b) than that in the the wind southwest is stronger coast (Figur duringe 3c,d). the landfall It can be in clearly Florida seen Keys from (Figure a com-3a,b) thanparison in the between southwest Figure coast 3 column (Figure 13 c,d).and Itcolumn can be 2 clearly that increasing seen from the a comparisonwind intensity between in- Figurecreases3 columnthe storm 1 andsize, columnindicating 2 that that increasing wind intensity the wind affects intensity the area increasesover which the the storm storm size, indicatingacts. On the that east wind coast, intensity the wind affects remained the area onshore over which that caused the storm positive acts. surges. On the On east the coast, thewest wind coast, remained initially, onshorethe wind that was caused offshore positive that caused surges. negative On the surges. west coast,However, initially, after the windthe hurricane was offshore passed that over caused the location, negative the surges. wind returned However, onshore, after the which hurricane lead to passed positive over thesurges. location, In the the recess wind of returned the Georgia–Carolinas onshore, which coastline, lead to positive the onshore surges. wind In the was recess mostly of the Georgia–Carolinasshore perpendicular, coastline, which caused the onshore high surges. wind was mostly shore perpendicular, which caused high surges.

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(a) (b)

(c) (d)

FigureFigure 3. 3.Snapshots Snapshots of of wind wind vector vector andand velocityvelocity magnitude color color plots plots at at landfall. landfall. (a) ( aCase) Case 3 at 3 at1:00 1:00 p.m., p.m., 10 September 10 September 2017;2017; (b ()b Case) Case 2 2 at at 1:00 1:00 p.m., p.m., 10 10 September September 2017;2017; ( c)) Case Case 3 3 8:00 8:00 p.m., p.m., 10 10 September September 2017; 2017; and and (d) ( dCase) Case 2 at 2 8:00 at 8:00 p.m., p.m., 10 10 September 2017. September 2017.

ToTo ascertainascertain the actual quantitative quantitative effects effects of of individual individual parameters parameters shown shown in Cases in Cases 2–92–9 (see(see TableTable2 2),), thethe maximummaximum water elevatio elevationn differences differences between between the the reference reference case case (Case(Case 1)1) andand each other case case (i.e., (i.e., Case Case 1–Case 1–Case 2, 2, etc.) etc.) were were computed. computed. Figure Figure 4a,b4a,b indicate indicate the effect of varying wind intensity on Irma peak surges. When the wind intensity is in- the effect of varying wind intensity on Irma peak surges. When the wind intensity is creased by 10%, about 0.2 m increase in peak surges occurred around the landfall areas of increased by 10%, about 0.2 m increase in peak surges occurred around the landfall areas Cudjoe Key and the Naples area. This increase in surge is due to stronger onshore winds of Cudjoe Key and the Naples area. This increase in surge is due to stronger onshore winds pushing water overland after the hurricane eye passed over these locations. Observation pushing water overland after the hurricane eye passed over these locations. Observation reports indicated that all of the greater Naples area received hurricane force-sustained reports indicated that all of the greater Naples area received hurricane force-sustained winds, with category 2 sustained winds likely affecting much of the southern and eastern winds,portions with of Naples. category A similar 2 sustained increase winds in surge likely is affecting observed much in the ofeast the Florida southern coast and and eastern on portionsthe concave of Naples. shaped Acoastline similar of increase Georgia–Caro in surgelinas. is observed The contrary in the happens east Florida when coastthe wind and on theintensity concave is decreased shaped coastline by 10%. of Georgia–Carolinas. The contrary happens when the wind intensity is decreased by 10%.

Table 2. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) observation stations used in the study.

NOAA ID Name Longitude Latitude Bathymetry (m) Location 8670870 Fort Pulaski −80.9017 32.0333 −5.284 East coast 8720218 Mayport −81.4300 30.3967 −8.313 East coast 8722670 Lake Worth Pier −80.0333 26.6117 −6.437 East coast 8723214 Key −80.1618 25.7314 −3.686 East coast − − 8724580 81.8079 24.5557 1.388 Florida Keys 8723970 Vaca Key(a) −81.1133 24.7117 −(b1.512) Florida Keys 8725110 Naples −81.8075 26.1317 −0.323 West coast 8725520 Fort Myers −81.8717 26.6483 −2.067 West coast 8726384 Port Manatee −82.5633 27.6383 0.235 West coast 8726724 Clearwater −82.8317 27.9783 −1.888 West coast

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(a) (b)

(c) (d) Figure 3. Snapshots of wind vector and velocity magnitude color plots at landfall. (a) Case 3 at 1:00 p.m., 10 September 2017; (b) Case 2 at 1:00 p.m., 10 September 2017; (c) Case 3 8:00 p.m., 10 September 2017; and (d) Case 2 at 8:00 p.m., 10 September 2017.

To ascertain the actual quantitative effects of individual parameters shown in Cases 2–9 (see Table 2), the maximum water elevation differences between the reference case (Case 1) and each other case (i.e., Case 1–Case 2, etc.) were computed. Figure 4a,b indicate the effect of varying wind intensity on Irma peak surges. When the wind intensity is in- creased by 10%, about 0.2 m increase in peak surges occurred around the landfall areas of Cudjoe Key and the Naples area. This increase in surge is due to stronger onshore winds pushing water overland after the hurricane eye passed over these locations. Observation reports indicated that all of the greater Naples area received hurricane force-sustained winds, with category 2 sustained winds likely affecting much of the southern and eastern J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 portions of Naples. A similar increase in surge is observed in the east Florida coast10 and of 24 on the concave shaped coastline of Georgia–Carolinas. The contrary happens when the wind intensity is decreased by 10%.

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(a) (b)

(c) (d)

(e) (f)

(g) (h)

FigureFigure 4. 4.DepartureDeparture of of maximum maximum water water elevations elevations from from the the base base case case (i.e., “hmax” ofof eacheach simulationsimulationis is subtracted subtracted from from thatthat of ofthe the reference reference simulation); simulation); (a) CaseCase 1–Case1–Case 3; 3; ( b()b Case) Case 1–Case 1–Case 2; (2;c) ( Casec) Case 1–Case 1–Case 4; (d 4;) Case(d) Case 1–Case 1–Case 5; (e) 5; Case (e) 1–CaseCase 1– Case7; ( f7;) Case(f) Case 1–Case 1–Case 6; (g 6;) Case(g) Case 1–Case 1–Case 8; and 8; (andh) Case (h) Case 1–Case 1–Case 9. Purple 9. Purple lines representlines represent the Irma the track. Irma track.

A reduction in the hurricane forward speed by 10% increases the peak surges in the south side of Florida Keys by more than 0.4 m, but decreased by the same amount on the north side, as seen in Figure 4c. This is possibly because high onshore winds take more time to push water against the key islands from the south, thereby increasing the peak surges. The peak levels remain low on the open coast, since the forward speed is slow to push water back onshore. There is a decrease of more than 0.5 m in peak water levels along the Georgia–Carolinas coastline and a decrease in forward speed. The funnel effect subsided as more time was allowed for the water to disperse. On the other hand, when the forward speed is increased (Figure 4d), there is a 0.2 m increase in flooding in the open coast areas of west and southwestern Florida as the wind has enough momentum to push water against the shoreline. Along the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, the surge is slightly higher as well. A 0.2 m decrease in peak surge occurs in the southeast Florida, at the in- tersection of Florida Keys and continental Florida. As shown in Figure 4e, as the pressure is increased, there is about a 0.2 m reduction in surge levels on the near shore. On the other hand, as Figure 4f shows, a decrease in pressure results in about a 0.2 m surge increase. Both are due to the inverted barometer

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A reduction in the hurricane forward speed by 10% increases the peak surges in the south side of Florida Keys by more than 0.4 m, but decreased by the same amount on the north side, as seen in Figure4c. This is possibly because high onshore winds take more time to push water against the key islands from the south, thereby increasing the peak surges. The peak levels remain low on the open coast, since the forward speed is slow to push water back onshore. There is a decrease of more than 0.5 m in peak water levels along the Georgia–Carolinas coastline and a decrease in forward speed. The funnel effect subsided as more time was allowed for the water to disperse. On the other hand, when the forward speed is increased (Figure4d), there is a 0.2 m increase in flooding in the open coast areas of west and southwestern Florida as the wind has enough momentum to push water against the shoreline. Along the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, the surge is slightly higher as well. A 0.2 m decrease in peak surge occurs in the southeast Florida, at the intersection of Florida Keys and continental Florida. As shown in Figure4e, as the pressure is increased, there is about a 0.2 m reduction in surge levels on the near shore. On the other hand, as Figure4f shows, a decrease in pressure results in about a 0.2 m surge increase. Both are due to the inverted barometer effect. The effect is along the track and widely spread in the open ocean, especially along the south coast of Florida. Musinguzi et al. [7] observed similar findings during Hurricane Rita. In agreement with this theoretical relationship, [13] found surge levels to rise by 0.8 to 1 m around Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands for Hurricanes Irma and Maria, with center pressures of 914 and 910 millibars, respectively. The surge level increasing or decreasing by 0.2 m for a 30 millibar incremental pressure drop or rise in the present study is within 67% of the classical theoretical relationship mentioned above. The results are reasonable, given that the region of the study is a continental shelf with land effects and not a deep ocean. To examine the influence of the track on peak surges, the original Irma track is shifted 5◦ westwards and eastwards, starting from the eye location about 48 h before the landfall. As shown in Figure4g, h, lines TW and TE represent the original track shifted 5 ◦ westwards and eastwards, respectively. Figure4g shows that shifting the track 5 ◦ westwards increases the peak surge by more than 0.2 m on the west coast of Florida. Shifting the track 5◦ eastwards increases the peak surge by more than 0.2 m along the Georgia–Carolinas coastlines, as seen in Figure4h. From the comparison of vector snapshots displayed in Figure5a, b, it is clear that the 5 ◦ westward storm pushes wind onshore in the southwest Florida after the hurricane eye passes a location, causing a higher surge there. When the track is shifted 5◦ eastwards (Figure5c), a stronger onshore wind is active on the east coast than west, causing a slightly higher surge on the east coast. Note that the track is on the continental Florida for the most part, which minimizes the surge effects overall. As the storm moved up north, on-shore winds pushed more water to inundate most of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline.

4.2. Water Level Timeseries for Observed and Model Predictions As shown in Figure6, modeled Hurricane Irma water level timeseries are compared to the observed water levels at 10 selected locations in south Florida. The identification number for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) gauge stations and location bathymetric depths are shown in Table2. Fort Pulaski is located near Savannah River on –Georgia border, while Mayport is located on St. Johns River east of Jacksonville, Florida. Lake Worth Pier and Virginia Key stations are located far away to the east of landfall, Key West and Vaca Key are located close to the land fall areas in the Florida Keys. Naples and Fort Myers are located close to the landfall areas near north of Marcos Island, while Port Manatee and Clearwater are located farther north of landfall areas in southwest Florida. The bathymetry and geographic locations of these gauge stations with respect to the track are shown in Figure1b. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 11 of 24

effect. The effect is along the track and widely spread in the open ocean, especially along the south coast of Florida. Musinguzi et al. [7] observed similar findings during Hurricane Rita. In agreement with this theoretical relationship, [13] found surge levels to rise by 0.8 to 1 m around Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands for Hurricanes Irma and Maria, with center pressures of 914 and 910 millibars, respectively. The surge level increasing or decreasing by 0.2 m for a 30 millibar incremental pressure drop or rise in the present study is within 67% of the classical theoretical relationship mentioned above. The results are reasonable, given that the region of the study is a continental shelf with land effects and not a deep ocean. To examine the influence of the track on peak surges, the original Irma track is shifted 5° westwards and eastwards, starting from the eye location about 48 h before the landfall. As shown in Figure 4g, h, lines TW and TE represent the original track shifted 5° west- wards and eastwards, respectively. Figure 4g shows that shifting the track 5° westwards increases the peak surge by more than 0.2 m on the west coast of Florida. Shifting the track 5° eastwards increases the peak surge by more than 0.2 m along the Georgia–Carolinas coastlines, as seen in Figure 4h. From the comparison of vector snapshots displayed in Figure 5a, b, it is clear that the 5° westward storm pushes wind onshore in the southwest Florida after the hurricane eye passes a location, causing a higher surge there. When the track is shifted 5° eastwards (Figure 5c), a stronger onshore wind is active on the east coast than west, causing a slightly higher surge on the east coast. Note that the track is on the J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 continental Florida for the most part, which minimizes the surge effects 12overall. of 24 As the storm moved up north, on-shore winds pushed more water to inundate most of the Geor- gia–Carolinas coastline.

(a)

(b) (c)

FigureFigure 5. 5.Snapshots Snapshots of windof wind vector vector and and velocity velocity magnitude magnitude color plots;color (plots;a) Case (a 1) Case wind 1 vector wind at vector 8:00 p.m., at 8:00 10 Septemberp.m., 10 September 2017;2017; (b ()b Case) Case 8 wind8 wind vector vector at 9:00 at 9:00 p.m., p.m., 10 September 10 September 2017; (2017;c) Case (c) 9 Case wind 9 vector wind atvector 4:00 a.m., at 4:00 10 Septembera.m., 10 September 2017. 2017.

4.2.To Water further Level understand Timeseries the for effect Observed of the and varying Model parameters Predictions (i.e., Cases 2–9) listed in Table1, modeled water level time series are compared to the modeled water level time series usingAs shown OWI (i.e., in Figure Case 1) 6, meteorological modeled Hurricane forcing, asIrma well water as the level observed timeseries water levels are compared at eightto the stations observed in South water Florida. levels Inat comparison10 selected with locations the observed in south data, Florida. the OWI The model identification resultsnumber are acceptable for the National and are wellOceanic comparable and Atmo to thosespheric presented Administration in a recent study(NOAA) done gauge sta- usingtions the and parallel location Coastal bathymetric and Estuarine depths Storm are Tideshown (CEST) in Table Model 2. [Fort25], indicatingPulaski is thatlocated near OWISavannah well represented River on Hurricane South Carolina–Georgia Irma windfields. bord Overall,er, while OWI underpredictsMayport is located the Irma on St. Johns surgeRiver at alleast stations of Jacksonville, except at theFlorida. Virginia Lake Key Worth station. Pier The and greatest Virginia underprediction Key stations ofare located more than 0.9 m occurs at Fort Myers. Fort Myers station is located deep inside a river channel. The water path from the ocean to the station goes through a tortuous path. Any inaccuracies in the mesh, Manning’s n coefficient and bathymetry along the way is bound to cause some discrepancy and delay in surge peaks. In the Key West station, the model underpredicts by about 0.5 m, and the reason for this underprediction is possibly a coarser mesh resolution in the Key West region. However, as shown in Figure6, water level time series with varying parameters in OWI indicate overprediction by some models and underprediction for others. Moreover, the models show a phase lag or lead in the arrival peak surge at a given location, depending on the effect of changing the parameter. The highest peak water levels of about 1.5 m are observed at Naples and Fort Myers, while the lowest peak water levels of about 0.6 m occurred at Port Manatee and Clearwater beach. The east coast stations have mostly positive surges, although they have low tide times. On the contrary, the west coast stations have negative surges of −1 m or more for 18 to 24 h, which is related to the offshore wind pushing water away when the hurricane was approaching the stations. The surge reversed once the hurricane wind came onshore after the eye passed over the stations. This phenomenon has been well documented after the hurricane [14,15], although it was not reported in the advisories. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 13 of 24 J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 13 of 24

3 Fort Pulaski 2.5 Mayport 2 2 1.5

1 1

0 0.5 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 -1 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5

-2 -1 (a) (b) 1.5 Lake Worth Pier 2 Virginia Key 1 1.5

0.5 1

0 0.5 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -1 -0.5 (c) (d) 1 Vaca Key 1.5 Key West 1 0.5 0.5 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 -0.5

-1 -1 Water Elevation (m) Water Elevation (e) (f) 2 Naples 2 Fort Myers 1 1 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 -1 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -1 -2 -2 -3

-4 -3 (g) (h)

Figure 6. Cont.

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1 Port Manatee 1 Clearwater Beach 0.5 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -1 -0.5

-1 -2 -1.5

-3 -2 (i) (j) Date and Time

FigureFigure 6. 6.Observed Observed and and modeled modeled waterwater elevationelevation time series (date (date in in 2017) 2017) for for Irma Irma at at selected selected stations stations using using different different meteorologicalmeteorological forcing forcing cases cases inin AdvancedAdvanced CIRCulationCIRCulation and Simulating Simulating Waves Waves Nearshore Nearshore (ADCIRC (ADCIRC + SWAN), + SWAN), (a) (aFort) Fort Pulaski,Pulaski, (b ()b Mayport,) Mayport, ( c(c)) Lake Lake WorthWorth Pier,Pier, ((dd)) VirginiaVirginia Key, ( e)) Key Key West, West, ( (ff) )Vaca Vaca Key, Key, (g (g) )Naples, Naples, (h ()h Fort) Fort Myers, Myers, (i) (Porti) Port Manatee, and (j) Clearwater Beach. Manatee, and (j) Clearwater Beach.

AnReducing identical pressure effect ofincreases wind intensity the peak is water observed levels, in while almost increasing all stations. pressure When de- wind intensitycreases the is increased,water levels water at all levels selected are higherstations. than However, that of theincreasing reference or (i.e.,decreasing Case 1) pres- model. sure produces about the same magnitude of impact on storm surges. The greatest impact The greatest effect of increasing wind intensity occurs at the Virginia Key station (Figure6d), of pressure occurs in the southeast coast at Lake Worth Pier and Virginia Key stations and indicating that stronger winds produce a high inundation in the and Biscayne Bay in the Florida Keys at Vaca Key and Key West stations. At these stations, onshore winds areas. Peak water levels tend to decrease when wind intensity is decreased. In the Florida combine with a low barometric pressure to generate the highest storm surges. As the cen- Keys, the effect of an increasing wind intensity appears to be higher on the east of the track ter moved northward towards the west coast, changes in barometric pressure had no ap- than on the west side of the track due to the steering counterclockwise winds, as shown in parent effect on the Irma storm surge, but wind forcing was more influential. Similar re- Figure6e, f for Vaca Key and Key West stations, respectively. sults were obtained by [15]. Reducing pressure increases the peak water levels, while increasing pressure de- Changes in the forward speed result in a phase lead or phase lag of peak water levels. creases the water levels at all selected stations. However, increasing or decreasing pressure When forward speed is increased by 25%, peak surges occur with a phase lead of 30 h, but produces about the same magnitude of impact on storm surges. The greatest impact of a decreasing forward speed by 10% results in a phase lag of 17 h. In a previous study, pressure occurs in the southeast coast at Lake Worth Pier and Virginia Key stations and Musinguzi et al. [7] observed a phase lead of 36 h when hurricane Rita’s forward speed inwas the increased Florida Keysby 25%. at Vaca At Vaca Key Key and and Key Key West West stations. stations, At reducing these stations, forward onshore speed windshas combinemore of an with impact a low on barometric surge than pressure an increasi to generateng forward the speed, highest implying storm surges. that slowing As the centerthe movedhurricane northward gives it towardsmore time the westto inundate coast, changes the islands, in barometric while a pressurefast-moving had hurricane no apparent effectquickly on passes the Irma the storm islands. surge, At butstations wind in forcing southwest was moreFlorida, influential. increased Similar forward results speed were obtainedcaused more by [ 15surge]. relative to the reference (Case 1) model. This can be explained by the windChanges directions in thein forwardFigure 3, speed which result were in predominantly a phase lead or southwestward phase lag of peak before water Irma levels. Whenmoved forward northwards, speed but is later increased the wind by directio 25%, peakns became surges primarily occur with northeastward, a phase lead push- of 30 h, buting amore decreasing water back forward overland. speed In by east 10% Florida, results at in Lake a phase Worth lag Pier of 17 and h. InVirginia a previous Key sta- study, Musinguzitions, changes et al. in [the7] observed forward speed a phase does lead not of indicate 36 h when significant hurricane changes Rita’s in forward peak water speed wasline increasedtimeseries, by further 25%. confirming At Vaca Key that and low Key barometric West stations, pressure reducing was a significant forward contrib- speed has moreutor to of high an impact peak storm on surge surges than on anthe increasing east coast. forward speed, implying that slowing the hurricaneWhen gives the track it more shifted time 5° to west inundate of the the original islands, track, while it increases a fast-moving peak hurricanewater levels quickly on passesthe west the coast. islands. This At is stations demonstrated in southwest by high Florida,er peak increasedsurges at forwardthe Key West speed and caused Naples more surgestations. relative When to the the track reference is shifted (Case 5° 1) east, model. an increase This can in be peak explained surges byoccur the at wind stations directions on inthe Figure entire3 ,Florida which wereeast coast, predominantly Georgia–Caro southwestwardlinas coastline. before NOAA Irma stations moved at northwards, Mayport, butLake later Worth the windPier and directions Virginia became Key indicate primarily an evident northeastward, increase in pushing maximum more surge. water The back overland.greatest increase In east in Florida, peak surges at Lake of about Worth 0.8 Pier m occurs and Virginia at Key West Key station, stations, when changes the track in the forwardin shifted speed 5° east. does not indicate significant changes in peak water line timeseries, further confirming that low barometric pressure was a significant contributor to high peak storm surges on the east coast.

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 15 of 24

When the track shifted 5◦ west of the original track, it increases peak water levels on the west coast. This is demonstrated by higher peak surges at the Key West and Naples ◦ J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 stations. When the track is shifted 5 east, an increase in peak surges occur at stations on 16 of 24 the entire Florida east coast, Georgia–Carolinas coastline. NOAA stations at Mayport, Lake Worth Pier and Virginia Key indicate an evident increase in maximum surge. The greatest increase in peak surges of about 0.8 m occurs at Key West station, when the track in shifted ◦ 5 east. 2 locations increases to 6, but 𝐵 improves overall. Increased pressure gives an R of 0.729 4.3.and High an Water ERMS Marksof 0.160, although the number of dry locations increases to 6. When pressure 2 is decreased,High water marksR decreases (HWMs) to are 0.686 typically and collected ERMS decreases from the waterto 0.116. marks The left best on overall HWM structures,performance poles is and obtained trees after when hurricane the wind storm surgesintensity recede, is increased and serve asto important110%. gauges to assess the worst storm surge which occurred at a given location over the entire Tableduration 3. High of the Water storm. Mark A comparative (HWM) Error study St ofatistics observed for and different modeled cases. HWMs is a tool to assess model performance with respect to the observed data. However, it should be noted that not all HWMCase stations may be found toR2 be wet in aE typicallyRMS ADCIRBMN simulation. Dry Hence, Points Wet Points some100% stations wind may beintensity predicted by the 0.697 model as dry 0.143 stations. This− situation0.138 may be tied2 45 to a lack of model mesh resolution, outdated bathymetry, inaccurate input parameters, etc. A90% total ofwind 47 National intensity Ocean Service 0.705 observed High-Water 0.181 Marks−0.219 (HWMs) are used4 43 to evaluate110% thewind performance intensity of each modeled 0.703 water 0.139 level against− the0.032 observed HWMs.2 45 The observed HWMs and their locations with respect to the coast lines are shown in 90% forward speed 0.631 0.189 −0.191 3 44 Figure1b . Most of the high valued HWMs stations are on the east coast, along the Georgia– Carolinas125% coastline forward and speed low valued HWMs 0.737 stations are 0.101 on the southwest−0.092 coast of Florida.2 45 In Figure7Track, the points 5° West are color-coded 0.817 based on the 0.092 surge (predicted−0.140 minus observed).3 44 White-coded points indicated that HWM was well predicted by the ADCIRC model. These Track 5° East 0.650 0.273 −0.066 6 41 were characterized as those with surge differences within ±0.25 m. Red points indicate dry points.965 Thesemin pressure locations were not wetted 0.729 by the model.0.160 Green-coded−0.192 points indicate6 41 underpredicted905 min HWM pressure locations and yellow-coded 0.686 points 0.116 indicate overpredicted−0.047 HWM.2 45

FigureFigure 7. Predicted7. Predicted HWMs HWMs at the various at the USGSvarious locations USGS using loca OWItions meteorological using OWI forcing.meteorological forcing.

In the statistical analysis of HWMs, the number of points wetted by the ADCIRC 3 model vary for all the simulated cases. The high-water3 mark locations not wetted by the y = 0.8819xmodel - (dry 0.026 points) are omitted in the computation of error statisticsy = 1.0189x [2,7]. A comparison- 0.0674 R² between= 0.697 observed and modeled HWMs, the number of wet-dry locationsR² = 0.703 and the error statistics for different cases are presented in Table3. Figure8 shows scatter plots for the

2 2

1 1

0 0 Modeled High Water Mark (m) Modeled High Water Mark (m) 0123 0123 Measured High Water Mark (m) Measured High Water Mark (m) (a) (b)

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 16 of 24

modeled and observed HWMs. The red square points indicate over-prediction by the model, while blue diamond points indicate underprediction by the model. The black line represents the best line of fit. In Table3, the simulation with OWI meteorological 2 forcing has a Correlation Coefficient (R ) value of 0.697, a Mean Normalized Bias (BMN) value of −0.138 and the Root Mean Square Error (ERMS) is 0.143. The ERMS assesses how scattered the data points are, which is largely attributed to the underprediction of HWMs at most of the locations. The BMN assesses how the modeled elevations are on a par with observed data. An overall negative value of Mean Normalized Bias (BMN) indicates an underprediction of HWMs by the OWI model. Most of the underprediction occurred at the Naples and Fort Myers areas, also shown by water level time series in Figure6g,h. In a previous study, Hurricane Irma HWMs located in South Florida mangrove zones were under-predicted using the CEST Model [25]. They attributed this underprediction to the proximity of these areas to the domain boundary, resulting in a limited fetch for wind to push water inland. The OWI simulation overpredicted HWMs located around Virginia Key. This is further evidenced by the overprediction of water level timeseries at Virginia Key station as shown in Figure6d.

Table 3. High Water Mark (HWM) Error Statistics for different cases.

2 Case R ERMS BMN Dry Points Wet Points 100% wind intensity 0.697 0.143 −0.138 2 45 90% wind intensity 0.705 0.181 −0.219 4 43 110% wind intensity 0.703 0.139 −0.032 2 45 90% forward speed 0.631 0.189 −0.191 3 44 125% forward speed 0.737 0.101 −0.092 2 45 Track 5◦ West 0.817 0.092 −0.140 3 44 Track 5◦ East 0.650 0.273 −0.066 6 41 965 min pressure 0.729 0.160 −0.192 6 41 905 min pressure 0.686 0.116 −0.047 2 45

As shown in Table3, when wind intensity is increased to 110%, the R2 increases to 0.703, while the ERMS decreases to 0.139. As the comparison between Figure8a,c shows, increasing the wind intensity to 110% has improved the modeled HWM to be on a par with the observed data, as most HWMs are elevated, as indicated by a lower absolute value of BMN (0.032). When the forward speed is decreased, the model produces the worst 2 statistics by reducing R to 0.631, increasing the absolute value of BMN to 0.191, increasing ERMS to 0.189, and increasing the number of dry locations to 3. When the forward speed is increased, R2 is higher than the reference model with a smaller error and a lower absolute value of BMN. Note that for the higher forward speed case, the HWM may occur a day or two earlier than that of the reference case, as Figure6 indicates. The highest R2 was 0.817 and the smallest ERMS was 0.092, although a moderate absolute value of BMN (0.14) with 3 dry locations occur when hurricane track is shifted 5◦ west. When the track is shifted 5◦ 2 east, R reduces to 0.650, ERMS increases to 0.273, scatter and the number of dry locations 2 increases to 6, but BMN improves overall. Increased pressure gives an R of 0.729 and an ERMS of 0.160, although the number of dry locations increases to 6. When pressure 2 is decreased, R decreases to 0.686 and ERMS decreases to 0.116. The best overall HWM performance is obtained when the wind intensity is increased to 110%. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 16 of 24

2 locations increases to 6, but 𝐵 improves overall. Increased pressure gives an R of 0.729 and an ERMS of 0.160, although the number of dry locations increases to 6. When pressure is decreased, R2 decreases to 0.686 and ERMS decreases to 0.116. The best overall HWM performance is obtained when the wind intensity is increased to 110%.

Table 3. High Water Mark (HWM) Error Statistics for different cases.

Case R2 ERMS BMN Dry Points Wet Points 100% wind intensity 0.697 0.143 −0.138 2 45 90% wind intensity 0.705 0.181 −0.219 4 43 110% wind intensity 0.703 0.139 −0.032 2 45 90% forward speed 0.631 0.189 −0.191 3 44 125% forward speed 0.737 0.101 −0.092 2 45 Track 5° West 0.817 0.092 −0.140 3 44 Track 5° East 0.650 0.273 −0.066 6 41 965 min pressure 0.729 0.160 −0.192 6 41 905 min pressure 0.686 0.116 −0.047 2 45

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Figure 7. Predicted HWMs at the various USGS locations using OWI meteorological forcing.

3 3 y = 0.8819x - 0.026 y = 1.0189x - 0.0674 R² = 0.697 R² = 0.703

2 2

1 1

0 0 Modeled High Water Mark (m) Modeled High Water Mark (m) 0123 0123 J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 Measured High Water Mark (m) 17 of 24 Measured High Water Mark (m) (a) (b) 3 3 y = 0.7535x + 0.0355 y = 0.7587x + 0.0666 R² = 0.705 R² = 0.631

2 2

1 1

0 0 Modeled High Water Mark (m) Modeled High Water 0123Modeled High Water Mark (m) 0123 Measured High Water Mark (m) Measured High Water Mark (m) (c) (d) 3 3 y = 0.8305x + 0.1016 y = 0.8623x + 0.1197 R² = 0.737 R² = 0.686

2 2

1 1

0 0 Modeled High Water Mark (m) Modeled High Water Modeled High Water Mark (m) 0123 0123 Measured High Water Mark (m) Measured High Water Mark (m) (e) (f)

Figure 8. Cont.

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3 3 y = 0.8853x - 0.1001 y = 0.8167x + 0.0566 R² = 0.729 R² = 0.817

2 2

1 1

0

0 Mark (m) Modeled High Water Modeled High Water Mark (m) Modeled High Water 0123 0123 Measured High Water Mark (m) Measured High Water Mark (m) (g) (h) 3 y = 0.9758x - 0.0537 R² = 0.650

2

1

Modeled High Water Mark (m) 0 0123 Measured High Water Mark (m) (i) Figure 8. Comparison between the computed and the measured HWMs at the various USGS locations. (a) Case 1, (b) Case Figure 8. Comparison between the computed and the measured HWMs at the various USGS locations. (a) Case 1, (b) Case 2, (c) Case 3, (d) Case 4, (e) Case 5, (f) Case 6, (g) Case 7, (h) Case 8, (i) Case 9. The black line represents the best line of fit. 2, (c) Case 3, (d) Case 4, (e) Case 5, (f) Case 6, (g) Case 7, (h) Case 8, (i) Case 9. The black line represents the best line of fit.

4.4.4.4. CombinedCombined EffectEffect ofof WindWind Intensity,Intensity, Forward Forward Speed Speed and and Pressure Pressure InIn FigureFigure9 ,9, the the combined combined effect effect of of wind wind intensity, intensity, forward forward speed speed and and pressure pressure is is examined.examined. As As presented presented in in Table Table1, wind1, wind intensity, intensity, forward forward speed speed and and pressure pressure are simulta- are sim- neouslyultaneously increased increased and/or and/or decreased. decreased. The maximumThe maximum water water level differenceslevel differences between between each simulationeach simulation in Cases in Cases 10–15 10–15 and the and reference the refe simulationrence simulation are computed are computed using theusing maximum the max- waterimum elevation water elevation at each at node. each node. These These maximum maximum water water elevation elevation differences differences are usedare used to ascertainto ascertain the the combined combined effects effects of wind of wind intensity, intensity, forward forward speed speed and and pressure. pressure. As shown in Figure 9a, when both wind intensity and forward speed are decreased, the storm surge decreases by about 0.2 m in southwest Florida, north of Key West, and by about 0.5 m in the northeast along the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas shoreline. The west coast remains mostly unaffected. However, the peak surges increase by more than 0.2 m in the south of Florida Keys. On the southwest coast, the decrease in wind intensity

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 19 of 24

weakens the northeastward winds, pushing water up overland, but in Florida Keys, the increase in the surge is because the slow forward speed of the hurricane allows more time to inundate the entire islands. In the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas shoreline, the de- crease in surge is because of weaker shore perpendicular (see Figures 3 and 5) winds push- ing water overland. When both parameters are increased, as seen in Figure 9b, higher winds push more surge north of the keys and the south and west coast of Florida. In the northeast, along the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, there is a clear increase in surge as well, which is because of the stronger shore perpendicular winds pushing water overland. This combination appears to generate a large surge all around the Florida pen- insula, except on the east coast. The effect of the surge on the east coast of Florida is rela- tively less, as water may easily slide up the coastline. In Figure 9c, when the wind intensity is decreased and the forward speed is in- creased, near the southeast of Florida, the surge is decreased and increased on the right and left side of the track, respectively. The peak water levels in the Florida Keys east of landfall decreased due to a weaker but faster wind pushing water to go past the islands. As observed before, decreased wind intensity causes the surge to slightly decrease in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. However, the surge on the west coast increases, which can be largely attributed to the increased forward speed. When wind intensity is increased and the forward speed is decreased, as shown in Figure 9d, surges increase throughout the Florida Keys and east Florida. The west coast remains mostly unaffected. In the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas shoreline, a decrease in surge occurs. The combined effect of decreasing the forward speed and a reduced pressure is ana- lyzed in Figure 9e. It is observed that the surge increase occurs in most parts of the Florida Keys by more than 0.5 m. This increase extends to southeast Florida in the Biscayne Bay and Miami areas. A simultaneous decrease in forward speed and pressure potentially in- creases the surges in most parts of the west, south and east coasts of Florida. A decrease in surge occurs in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. In Figure 9f, the combined effect of wind intensity, forward speed and pressure is studied by simultaneously increasing wind intensity but decreasing both the forward speed and pressure. This parametric combination produces the greatest storm surge im- pact in and around Florida, with a more than 0.8 m increase in surge observed around the J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 Florida Keys. A decrease in surge occurs in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas19 of 24 coastline. The overall effect is similar, but more intense than the case presented in Figure 9e. The higher wind intensity pushes the water to cause overland flooding.

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 20 of 24

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

(e) (f)

FigureFigure 9. Departure 9. Departure of ofmaximum maximum water water elevations elevations from from the the base case (i.e.,(i.e., “hmax”“hmax” of of each each simulation simulation is is subtracted subtracted from from that of the reference simulation); (a) Case 1–Case 10; (b) Case 1–Case 11; (c) Case 1–Case 12; (d) Case 1–Case 13; (e) Case that of the reference simulation); (a) Case 1–Case 10; (b) Case 1–Case 11; (c) Case 1–Case 12; (d) Case 1–Case 13; (e) Case 1–Case 14; and (f) Case 1–Case 15. Purple lines represent the Irma track. 1–Case 14; and (f) Case 1–Case 15. Purple lines represent the Irma track.

TheAs ADCIRC shown in + Figure SWAN9a, water when bothlevel windtime intensityseries for andthe forwardcombined speed effect are of decreased, wind inten- sitythe and storm forward surge speed decreases are compared by about 0.2 to mthe in obse southwestrved water Florida, levels north at 10 of stations, Key West, as shown and inby Figure about 10. 0.5 Note m in thethat northeast there is a along time the lead recess or lag of thewherever Georgia–Carolinas there is an increased shoreline. Theor de- creasedwest coast forward remains speed, mostly respectively. unaffected. When However, both thewind peak intensity surges increaseand forward by more speed than are decreased,0.2 m in the an south increase of Florida in the Keys. water On level the southwesttime series coast, occurs the in decrease Florida in Keys wind around intensity the landfallweakens areas. the northeastwardFor instance, an winds, increase pushing in surge water happens up overland, at the Key but inWest Florida station, Keys, indicat- the ingincrease that a inslow the forward surge is because speed essentially the slow forward inundates speed Florida of the hurricaneKeys regardless allows moreof the time wind forto both inundate high the and entire low islands.wind intensities. In the recess When of the both Georgia–Carolinas parameters are shoreline, increased, the water decrease level timein surge series is indicate because that of weakerthe surge shore increases perpendicular in southwest (see FiguresFlorida3 as and well5) windsas in Florida pushing Keys. water overland. When both parameters are increased, as seen in Figure9b, higher winds In the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, the surge is increased at Pulaski and Mayport stations. However, there is not much change in the surge in the stations located on the east coast (Virginia Key and Lake Worth Pier), indicating the less sensitivity of storm surges to changes in the wind on the southeast coast. When the wind intensity is reduced and the forward speed is increased, the water level timeseries at Vaca Key and Key West stations in Florida Keys decrease relative to the reference (Case 1) simulation. The surge in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline decreases, as seen in the timeseries of Fort Pulaski and Mayport stations (see Figure 10a, b, respectively). When the wind intensity is increased and the forward speed is reduced, an increase in surges occurs in the Florida Keys, as shown by the water level time series at Vaca Key and Key West stations, while no difference in peak water levels occur at the Virginia Key and Lake Worth Pier stations. This confirms the findings that a high wind intensity and/or a slow forward speed increases peak surges in the Florida Keys, while wind intensity plays a big factor in the flooding in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. The combined effect of a simultaneous increase in wind intensity and a decrease in both the forward speed and pressure is a combination with the greatest effect in increasing

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 20 of 24

push more surge north of the keys and the south and west coast of Florida. In the northeast, along the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, there is a clear increase in surge as well, which is because of the stronger shore perpendicular winds pushing water overland. This combination appears to generate a large surge all around the Florida peninsula, except on the east coast. The effect of the surge on the east coast of Florida is relatively less, as water may easily slide up the coastline. In Figure9c, when the wind intensity is decreased and the forward speed is increased, near the southeast of Florida, the surge is decreased and increased on the right and left side of the track, respectively. The peak water levels in the Florida Keys east of landfall decreased due to a weaker but faster wind pushing water to go past the islands. As observed before, decreased wind intensity causes the surge to slightly decrease in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. However, the surge on the west coast increases, which can be largely attributed to the increased forward speed. When wind intensity is increased and the forward speed is decreased, as shown in Figure9d, surges increase throughout the Florida Keys and east Florida. The west coast remains mostly unaffected. In the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas shoreline, a decrease in surge occurs. The combined effect of decreasing the forward speed and a reduced pressure is analyzed in Figure9e. It is observed that the surge increase occurs in most parts of the Florida Keys by more than 0.5 m. This increase extends to southeast Florida in the Biscayne Bay and Miami areas. A simultaneous decrease in forward speed and pressure potentially increases the surges in most parts of the west, south and east coasts of Florida. A decrease in surge occurs in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. In Figure9f, the combined effect of wind intensity, forward speed and pressure is studied by simultaneously increasing wind intensity but decreasing both the forward speed and pressure. This parametric combination produces the greatest storm surge impact in and around Florida, with a more than 0.8 m increase in surge observed around the Florida Keys. A decrease in surge occurs in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. The overall effect is similar, but more intense than the case presented in Figure9e. The higher wind intensity pushes the water to cause overland flooding. The ADCIRC + SWAN water level time series for the combined effect of wind intensity and forward speed are compared to the observed water levels at 10 stations, as shown in Figure 10. Note that there is a time lead or lag wherever there is an increased or decreased forward speed, respectively. When both wind intensity and forward speed are decreased, an increase in the water level time series occurs in Florida Keys around the landfall areas. For instance, an increase in surge happens at the Key West station, indicating that a slow forward speed essentially inundates Florida Keys regardless of the wind for both high and low wind intensities. When both parameters are increased, water level time series indicate that the surge increases in southwest Florida as well as in Florida Keys. In the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, the surge is increased at Pulaski and Mayport stations. However, there is not much change in the surge in the stations located on the east coast (Virginia Key and Lake Worth Pier), indicating the less sensitivity of storm surges to changes in the wind on the southeast coast. When the wind intensity is reduced and the forward speed is increased, the water level timeseries at Vaca Key and Key West stations in Florida Keys decrease relative to the reference (Case 1) simulation. The surge in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline decreases, as seen in the timeseries of Fort Pulaski and Mayport stations (see Figure 10a,b, respectively). When the wind intensity is increased and the forward speed is reduced, an increase in surges occurs in the Florida Keys, as shown by the water level time series at Vaca Key and Key West stations, while no difference in peak water levels occur at the Virginia Key and Lake Worth Pier stations. This confirms the findings that a high wind intensity and/or a slow forward speed increases peak surges in the Florida Keys, while wind intensity plays a big factor in the flooding in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 21 of 24

the storm surge in the south of Florida. This effect is most critical in the Florida Keys, as seen in water timeseries at the Key West station (Figure 10e). However, this combination causes a decrease in surge in the northeast recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline, es- J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 pecially at Fort Pulaski station (Figure 10a). 21 of 24 All west coast stations experience negative surges, as discussed before. Positive surges recede once the hurricane eye passes over the stations.

3 Fort Pulaski 2.5 Mayport 2 2 1.5 1 1

0 0.5 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 -1 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 -2 -1 (a) (b) 2 1.5 Lake Worth Pier Virginia Key 1 1.5

0.5 1

0 0.5 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -1 -0.5 (c) (d) 1 Vaca Key 1.5 Key West 1 0.5 0.5

0 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 Water Elevation (m) -0.5 -1 (e) (f) 2 2 Naples Fort Myers 1 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 0 -2 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -1 -4 -2

-6 -3 (g) (h)

Figure 10. Cont.

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 22 of 24 J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 22 of 24

1 Port Manatee 1 Clearwater Beach 0.5 0 0 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 9/9 9/10 9/11 9/12 -0.5 -1 -1 -1.5 -2 -2

-2.5 -3 (i) (j) Date and Time

FigureFigure 10. 10. ObservedObserved and and modeled modeled water water elevation elevation time time series series (date (date in in2017) 2017) for for Irma Irma at atselected selected stations stations using using different. different. meteorological forcing cases in Advanced CIRCulation and Simulating Waves Nearshore (ADCIRC + SWAN), (a) Fort meteorological forcing cases in Advanced CIRCulation and Simulating Waves Nearshore (ADCIRC + SWAN), (a) Fort Pulaski, (b) Mayport, (c) Lake Worth Pier, (d) Virginia Key, (e) Key West, (f) Vaca Key, (g) Naples, (h) Fort Myers, (i) Port Pulaski, (b) Mayport, (c) Lake Worth Pier, (d) Virginia Key, (e) Key West, (f) Vaca Key, (g) Naples, (h) Fort Myers, (i) Port Manatee, and (j) Clearwater Beach. Manatee, and (j) Clearwater Beach. 5. Conclusions The combined effect of a simultaneous increase in wind intensity and a decrease in bothThis the study forward conducts speed andnumerical pressure experiments is a combination using withSWAN the + greatest ADCIRC effect to extensively in increasing studythe storm storm surge surge in impacts the south caused of Florida. by Hurricane This effect Irma is most around critical the inFlorida the Florida peninsula Keys, under as seen varyingin water parametric timeseries conditions. at the Key WestThe results station show (Figure that 10 e).on However,the west coast, this combination peak surges causes are markedlya decrease different in surge from in the the northeast east coast. recess The ofonshore the Georgia–Carolinas winds perpendicular coastline, to the especially coastline at increaseFort Pulaski the surge, station and (Figure offshore 10a). winds perpendicular to the shoreline have an opposite effect. TheAll westwest coast coast stations initially experience has a negative negative surge surges, due to as counter-ro discussedtating before. offshore Positive wind, surges butrecede the surge once reverses the hurricane after the eye hurricane passes over eye the passes stations. over the location and the wind turns onshore. The east coast surge is largely positive, except for the periods of low tides. The surge5. Conclusions on the east coast of south Florida is not significant, as water can slide north along the coastline.This study The results conducts demonstrate numerical the experiments importance using of considering SWAN + ADCIRC changes toin extensivelythe coast- linestudy orientation storm surge in storm impacts surge caused predictions. by Hurricane Irma around the Florida peninsula under varyingWhen parametric wind intensity conditions. is increased The resultsby 10%, show about that a 0.2 on m the increase west coast, in peak peak surges surges oc- are cursmarkedly around different the landfall from areas the east of south coast. Florida, The onshore as well winds as along perpendicular the Georgia–Carolinas to the coastline recessedincrease coastline. the surge, Considering and offshore the winds moderate perpendicular coefficient of to determination the shoreline haveand scatter, an opposite the lowesteffect. absolute The west value coast of initially normalized has a mean negative bias surge and duethe lowest to counter-rotating number of dry offshore locations, wind, thebut best the HWM surge performance reverses after is the obtained hurricane when eye the passes wind over intensity the location is increased and the by wind10%. The turns oppositeonshore. happens The east when coast the surge intensity is largely is reduced positive, by except10%. A for decrease the periods in forward of low speed tides. by The 10%surge increases on the the east surge coast ofon souththe south Florida side is of not Florida significant, Keys asby water more canthan slide 0.4 m, north but along causes the a decreasecoastline. in The surge results by the demonstrate same amount the on importance the north ofside considering of Florida changesKeys and in in the the coastline recess oforientation Georgia–Carolinas. in storm An surge increase predictions. in forward speed by 10% produces an increase in surge in the WhenFlorida wind Keys intensity and in issouthwest increased Florida by 10%, of about about a 0.20.2m m, increase and slightly in peak increases surges occurs the surgearound in the the recess landfall of areasGeorgia–Carolinas. of south Florida, The as southwest well as along Florida the Georgia–Carolinas peninsula experiences recessed a highercoastline. surge Considering due to a fast-moving the moderate storm, coefficient while theof surge determination increasing in and the scatter, Florida the Keys lowest is lowerabsolute for a valuefaster ofmoving normalized storm meanthan for bias a sl andower the moving lowest storm. number The of surge dry locations, level increases the best orHWM decreases performance by 0.2 m isfor obtained a 30 millibar when incremen the windtal intensity pressure is increaseddrop or a byrise 10%. respectively The opposite in thehappens present whenstudy. the The intensity effect of is pressure reduced chan by 10%.ge on Athe decrease surge is inclearly forward spread speed from by the 10% trackincreases to the theopen surge ocean. on the south side of Florida Keys by more than 0.4 m, but causes a decreaseShifting in surgethe track by the5° westwards same amount increases on the norththe peak side surge of Florida by more Keys than and in0.2 the m recesson the of Georgia–Carolinas. An increase in forward speed by 10% produces an increase in surge in west coast of Florida, but a 0.2 m lesser surge at the intersection of Florida Keys and con- the Florida Keys and in southwest Florida of about 0.2 m, and slightly increases the surge tinental Florida, as well as in the Georgia–Carolinas recess. This case produces the highest coefficient of determination and the lowest scatter, but a moderate absolute value of

J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9, 963 23 of 24

in the recess of Georgia–Carolinas. The southwest Florida peninsula experiences a higher surge due to a fast-moving storm, while the surge increasing in the Florida Keys is lower for a faster moving storm than for a slower moving storm. The surge level increases or decreases by 0.2 m for a 30 millibar incremental pressure drop or a rise respectively in the present study. The effect of pressure change on the surge is clearly spread from the track to the open ocean. Shifting the track 5◦ westwards increases the peak surge by more than 0.2 m on the west coast of Florida, but a 0.2 m lesser surge at the intersection of Florida Keys and continental Florida, as well as in the Georgia–Carolinas recess. This case produces the highest coefficient of determination and the lowest scatter, but a moderate absolute value of normalized mean bias (i.e., somewhat underprediction by model) in the HWM comparison. Shifting the track 5◦ eastwards, the track stays on continental Florida for the most part, which minimizes the surge effects overall. The east coast and the Georgia–Carolinas recess have slightly higher surges. Increasing wind intensity and forward speed at the same time contributes to the largest surge effects around the Florida peninsula and the Georgia–Carolinas coastline. Simultaneously increasing wind intensity but decreasing both forward speed and pressure produces the highest surge around the Florida peninsula. It also produces a decreased surge in the recess of the Georgia–Carolinas coastline.

Author Contributions: A.M. performed all runs, post-processed the results, and analyzed the results; M.S. performed some runs and post-processed the results; M.K.A. designed the study, evaluated the results, and provided critical reviews; J.G.F. trained students in the ADCIRC model and provided technical expertise. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript. Funding: This research was funded by National Science Foundation—Excellence in Research, grant number 2000283. The APC is funded by the same grant. Institutional Review Board Statement: Not applicable. Informed Consent Statement: Not applicable. Data Availability Statement: Exclude. (Data sets are huge to be able to share publicly. Authors can share data with researchers privately, if contacted.) Acknowledgments: Authors are grateful to the University of ’s Renaissance Comput- ing Center for access to their high-performance computing platform. Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare sole responsibility of the research results.

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