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Jt.TAb’ •1 7i* Lls FS M8,Nl

IF ‘, /5 /77/s/I (k L

[5 ThTRO1XJCTIQi

L;

HL LH -: INNAHA Imriaha River in our Valley Has the nicest sort of clime Pray tell how to write Im-na-haw When Imntha doesn’t rhyme White faced cattle munchin bunch grass Poets call them critters Kine Have no worries on their faces Cause Imnaha doesn’t rhyme. Cowgirls dance with spurs a jinglin Swing your partners down the line Miss a step or two while prancin Imnaha still is not in rhyme. Rimrocks, canyons, gorges, eddies Master hands alone design Eras of the far off ages e Imnaha was to rhyme. Close your eyes and paint that picture Grieve the losses of the blind What they’d give to view the grandeur Of Imnaha without a rhyme.

By: Joe Hopkins —--‘S

happenings

adjoining serving

timers” various larger

consolidation the

submerged mores to

of

Inhabitants, developed authorities Inland

Forest,

the

this

year

In Acknowledgement

It

The

In

of

entity,

early

Enpire

for

incidents. recording

for was

land,

the

writing

1954.

our

author

area,

the

from

of

posterity

giving

decided

available.

author

period

poople

and

an

identity of

as are

the

the

the

This

believes ;

this

earlier

the

the

it

the

necessary

WallowaWhitman

the

makes

authors

author

to

of today.

influenced

brings

and Wallowa

book

struggles

an

events

writer /1eA

of

end

exploration

day. opportunity

grateful

no

that

the

of

has.a

the

personal

the

Therefor,

for

PREFACE claim

with

and

historical

numerous Wallowa

a

by story the

chronicle

an knowledge

real

experiences

the appreciations

which

of

National

understanding

local and

knowledge

to

of

literary

Whitman sense National

several

first

settlement.

become

the

our

sketches

area,

up

of

of

Forest. Wallowa

ancestors

on hand to

the

on

merit.

chapters

and

acquainted

satisfaction

Forest

of

the

recent

are

July

of

early of

word

the

from

Wallowa

due

the

at

the

1

in

took The Native

pictures

times,

the

have

history the

many

of prejudices Waflowa

that

with

story

that

possession

close best

in

and

been

American

“old

of

and

pre the

of

year,

of

known

is National

a

devotec of

the

the

and = a._ 1

Wallowa County, unlike Gaul is divided naturally into tour parts r instead of three: The high mountains, the valley with it’s adjoining grassland plateau, the timber covered plateau, and the canyons. It [ lies in the extreme northeastern part of the state of Oregon. It is

[1 one of Oregon’s larger counties with a total area of 2,033.920 acres. It is not densely populated, having only 7,036 residents according to L the 1960 census., [ The high mountains of Waflowa County have come to be known as the - “Switzerland of America”. From the lofty icea..crowned peaks of Eagle

[ Cap, Matterhoro and Sacajawea to the somber depths of Hells Canyon of t.he Snake River; from the flowering Alpine meadows to the green F, fields of the boautfu1 Wallowa Valley, fzom the tiny jewel-like lakes [ among the grarite to the rippled surfaces of Wailowa Lake at the toot of the mcnt’in, one soon exhausts his superlatives in describing the scenerr and geoio of this unique land. Is it any wonder that Chief Joseph and his small band of Nez Perce fought so valiantly against our [ government when we forced them out and took their homeland? Wallowa County although close by the Old Oregon Trail was little [ influenced by the early fur trade or the mountain men. Because of [ natural barriers, the explorers and the caravans of pioneers passed it by, little dreaming that such a land lay just over the mountains. The L few wanderIng prospectors who chanced upon this valley of winding r waters found no gold and the gold rush passed and eddied and swirled around Wailowa County with little effect upon the tranquility of the scene. The missionaries found more easily accessible locations and their influence was negligible upon the native Nez Perce. It was not until the choice grazing lands elsewhere in the Oregon country were fully appropriated, that the white man came to Wallowa County in numbers. 2 This led to the tragic and lamentable Nez Perce war of 1877. It is a sad reflection upon the frailities of mankind, that greed and rapacity should so often overpower the finer sense-abilities of moral values, leading to perpetuation of dishonorable and unscrupulous acts, later to be deplored with deep regret. The Nez Perce were driven out of Wailowa County and a pastoral and limited agricultural econoir quickly developed. During the 80’s and ‘90’s most of the choice lands were patented and the open range lands were over stocked with horses, sheep and cattle. Around the turn of the century and for a few years thereafter much timber land and marginal agricultural and grazing land passed into private ownership. During all this time Wallowa County remained very much in the stage of pioneer development. Ingress and egress was almost entirely confined to one very poor wagon road. All supplies had to be freightec’ in with team and wagon. First from far away points, then from some what nearer so’.irces of supply. Shipments of produce were hauled out in wagons to a limited extent, but most of the product of the land wa driven out on the hoof, including horses, cattle, sheep and hogs. The railroad came to Wallowa County in 1909 but it was not until about 1925 that a good road was built into the county. With the coming of the railroad, industry began to grow. Lumbering was of greatest importance but there were other minor starts. The pastoral econorr began to give way to a diversified agri culture with allied minor industries. During the last quarter of the 19th century the lumbering in dustry moved west. New England, the East and much of the lake states had been stripped of their easily accessible timber. The “Lumber

Barons” had left a scene of’ desolation in their wake, as a result of r [ L [ L [ [ [ r r [ L r [ L [ r

/

bright.

The

on alike.

ding

limited timber now of

into

the the range inent

many-

coming Nearly’ ship laws, from most

from Roosevelt to the So foresters

range

the

survive

outlook

neighboring privately

seems

it prevelant

of

more

The of prior thousands

entry entry

of

land

and

privately

industry

of

all

came

Walla population. Conservative conservation

the

lands,

National

reasonable recent

the

realized set

such

includad to under

and the

through

for

remaining

about,

owned

railroad this.

aside

“cut..out

public of

established

as

the

both

in

counties.

County

years

owned

the

acres Forest

Grover

Wailowa

wise

that that

livestock

timber

in

as

use public

practices

to

Better

homestead,

public

forest

timber

than

the there to

Forest

and

expect

drastic through of use

of

in

Cleveland,

the

land County For National

as forest

get-outs’

and range

Wallowa management

is

and

is lands

forest

interests

lands

Reserves

county Forest

by

the

true the

private,

has

a

timber action the

conservation

lands

land

of

larger

lands

continuance

same in

as

of

Forest sustained

Gifford lands philosophy.

efforts

County

a

and Reserves

Waflowa

a

is owners our was

size

later

claim

of and

reasons had

are

result

percentage because

becoming

in

Wa].lowa

neighboring

than

therefor necessary

better

commensurate

passed

of

Pinchot

also

the to and

of

and

the by

County

of

these

of

it become is

our

west

Men of 1905. other

becoming timber

timber a

management

a

County appearant

is generally’

into

healthy

the

of antedates and natural

better were

men if of

were

also

National

counties. good alienation

late

private Theodore

the Rowever, vision

with

interests

industry and

therefor

withdrawn

withdrawn

evicent,

true

understan—

vigorous

resources. nation

forest

on true

develop— others,

practices

our

the

and 3

much

that

Forests owner—

many’,

of land It

was

is

and L [ E [ [

[ L t

Wallowa

vailey ship would

phery.

history considerable where so portion

the

covered parts

total

are surrounds acres which

pated.

little Recreation,

to

ranches.

94,694

of

It

Wailowa

Of

of

speak.

near].y

of of

are

can

as

damaged

the

National

I

of and plateau is

What

a

necessity

the

979,279

will

have

the within

total be

not all

acres

parts

an

and

magnitude

all

county,

used,

is

County

A

The

valley

therefor seem

four

the integral

as

complete

arid

your arcs

the

Forest

of

acres

the of

to

other

yet.

take

purpose

developed

adviseable

parts

the

the

privately

basic

is

that

the and

boundaries pleasure?

in

and

of

rich

with

decided

precedence

part

three people

canyons Wailowa

All

hIstory

valley adjoining

of

of

National

resources

in

of

of

in

the

such

the thereof.

and

many

this parts,

owned

to

live.

these

the

to

are

and

of

County

whole.

of

county,

increased;

maintain

overlaping

ways

treat work over

Forest grassland the

natural

Wallowa

adjoining coriplementary lands

of

the

resources

The

Each Wallowa

of

soil

the the

to

mostly

but

high

towns

land.

2,033,920

inside

contineuity

trace

resources

happenings happenings

County is

or

and

and

only

plateau.

mountains,

grassland

dependent

National

are

squandered

of

are

water

excursions

the

This

the

of

to

would

the

a

there

acres,

the development

the

forest priceless

of

land

have

and history

of of

Of

plateau Wildlife,

Forest.

be periphery,

on the

central

the

the

the and

and

thQ

almost

1,073,973

been

into a

the

leaving

timber

work

pert..

center

most

four

disa

relation

of

heritage

other.

are

very

the

and

There

the

and

of

of

a - - -

5

THE GEOLOGICALSTORYOP WAIJCWACOUI C r The oldest identified exposed rocks in Wallowa County were laid L down about 200 miIlion years ago during the Permian Period. These [ consist of altered volcanic flows and sediznentry rocks in the Wallowa Mountains. The area is made up of four major rock types; sedimentary, [ consisting mainly of shales, limestones, and sandstones, crops out in r the. Wallowa Mountains, along the Snake River and the Imnaba River. An L . ingeous unit of quartz diorit.e and granodiorite subsequently intruded [ much of the Waflowa Mountains during Cretaceous times to form the Wailowa batholith. A volcanic unit made up of Columbia River basalt [ and associated andesite flows, by far the most extensive and covering r the remairder of the country except where overlain by alluvium, was L extruded during Miocene times. The youngest unit, consisting of all— uvial deposits of Pleistocene and recent age, occurs mainly in the [ Wallowa Vlicy. [ As Eastern Oregon drifted into the Miocene time, the “Cascade Barrier” must have been grawing. It had commenced that long period [ of volcanism that slowly piled up ashes, cinders, lava and bombs into r the magnificant Cascade Mountains. Volcanic ashes and gases drifted eastward, some as far as the Wallows country. Probably during extreme outbursts animals and plants perished and some were preserved as [‘ fossils. No doubt, local yet limited explosive vulcanism assisted in [ this rain of ashes and debris. During this epoch, cataclysms were frequent and extensive. This was one of the greatest periods of L vulcanism the world has ever known. Both types of volcanic activity

were present. One is manifested by an active volcano where clouds of smoke and steam are forced from a volcanic vent. Accompanying this [ [ L r r L 1’ L [ [

— [ [ [ L

[ [

(

and the eruptions

were the

show rising widely

ama age

root

of

of land, and a and

successive The surfaces the are Great growing

period

the square

wide

time

most

thickness

most

spread

earth other

showers

that

Layers

This

became

surrounded and Lava

Vast

prevailed

streams

above

over

atmosphere

masses.

over these

dramatic

flourished.

embracing of of

that

distant

vast

miles

f1w

outwellings

type and

flows

out

of

the capes

the

Idaho. of

the

the

of

from

of

deposits supplied

fine

jnuruiat

succeeded

in of ashes,

by

lowlands

in

throughout cooled

surface.

was from

This

superheated

land.

volcanoes

incidents

in

and

vuleanism,

sheets

the

many, extent

its

volcanic

The

the

sufficiently

ion

3000

form

type of

cinders

fiery

and

depths

were the

molten

That

and

sea

lava

many

molten

of

was

of

to

hardened was Eastern soils

basalt

were

in

broad

made

dust

lava

flood of about

where

mud

the

4000

covered wide flow thousands

and

the

rock prevelent

molten

rocks

in

on

and

dust

and

between is

bombs long extent.

is

geological and the until feet.

Oregon, great streams

a

which was

lava

one

lava

shown

the

with state

occurred

did

bases rock.

submerged,

in

with

highly

of

of

this to

in

cracks

winds

many

The

pour forests

some

nat

basalt

years.

much

of

by

of the

the

crumble

of

electrical

history

Isolated molten

vast lava

a violent come of

liquid, instances at down

carried remarkable

the

region

open of

marked

the

or to

of intervals

region The Eastern pour

from

bordering

under the

left

rock

a

in

oak

sheets of

eruption

mountain

probably

time

of

flowed

the difference

the

displays.

out

sides

the

North

to

and

as

the

spread the

of

Washington

and

dust

between over

allow surface throughout

same of islands

pine thousands

mount—

rapidly,

Cascades. of

action

America.

one

6

basalt at peaks

aver..

the far the

took

the

in

of

of - r [ L [ [ r [ [ L r -- r [ r

I

winds

of moraine

mountains

basins

and under In

Both tensively cycles there depressions after

they Eastern

that the

gration elapsed in

the

Oregon

magnitude

the

chemical

The

They

During The

ranges

were

During The

At

The

is,

to

a was

the

Cascades.

in have

deposits

Blue

sheet

Oregon.

of for length

precipitate

Cascades Wallowa

sheets vast rich

which

and

carved there

altered.

extensive volcanic

sp:ead

the

the probably were

contributed post-Miocene

the

and

and and

left

of

extent

in

basalt,

the

were

lakes

glacial

of formation

which

Wailowa

U-shaped

Mountains ice,

active

out, depth mineralogical silica

Most

continued

hanging

eruptions, vulcan

Columbia

warping

most

many

existed

of

which

formed.

and

of

they

by

plants

ages

to

in

the -

Mountains.

times

Eastern

of

valleys. independent

while

so the

of enerr

vaileys.

their are Eastern

pushed to

extended

River and

Columbia

their

before the

new far

to and

Dekkan

rise

as

the

composition.

faulting

the

northern

development. which

as

ceased. soil

Oregon

old

animals lava

load

down

Oregon.

forces

and

They

the

basalt

known,

They

These

River

south

lava

glaciers

if by

were

they

have

on from

Cascades.

then

not until

sculptured

the

dammed

part

When were

producing

plateau

the

local were

into

lava

is

were

Accompanying

esentially

the caused

older

The

crumbling

became

basic.

coast

in

of the again

sufficient

northern

not

flow

high up

glaciers dust

due,

the

the

of

than terrain Several

the

half-domed

streams

disturbed

elevations

and

arid,

at

is India.

country. higher

is

continent

came

horizontal

and

moisture

home

the

only

western

Washington.

acid this

scoured time

except was

geological disente to

with

Siskiuous.

exceeded in Cascades

until

rock

an

process

had

and

ex.

lay

laden their slopes

end.

where

when

out - —

r

[ [

[

L

[

[

r

r

[ t

-

C

of beauty

soil

the

formations

Canyon.

inst

peared

followed,

broadest.

Canyon

Seven Hells

canyons There

between

winds.

canyon

trapped

the

animal

forces

and

This

higher

No

the

On

mil

has

Canyon,

between

of

varied

down

1ntenive

with

of

the

the

This imach

Sevcn

life

short

enlarged

Coloado.

been

of

exposed

it

the

mountains

w1e

Wallowa

through

eastern

choice nature

of

seems

in

including

for

climatic

Devils

the

continent.

considerable

geological

the

therefore

at

geological

so

to

and

Columbia

strange

its

Mountains

flora

a

border

combined

remaining

There

the

such

batholith.

such

basalt

scoured

conditions,

narrowest

man.

canyon

capable

as

story

great

is

slightly U

of

since

River

speculatIon

study

plateau

to

the

some

is

Wailowa

and

moisture

out

is

make

of

depths.

close

Elkhorns,

few

lava

and

the

of

has

an

conjecture

named,

rich Wailowa

deeper

that

supporting

this

places

enormous

about

Seven

County

as

flow

to

from

as

in

yet

.6000

is

formerly

area

and

to

abundant

the

County

where

fifteen

Devils

the

offer

truly

the

been

that

just

fault

narrower

feet

one

Blues

well

cloud

Snake

it

indicates

such

made

the

how

one Mountains

filled

of

miles

deep

pure

abutted

line

a

and

bearing

great

river

this

of

wide

River

a

of

than

at

water,

Wailowas

variety

which

at

the

the

Hells

its happened.

variety

natural

that

UP

has

the

its

of has

great

area

wester).y

8

aga—

ap

deepest

Idaho.

good

Grand

cut

all

of a P.ALEOLITHICMAN

C The Wallowa Country is not an area rich in ancient artifacts of paleolithic man. At least no important archeological finds have been made which can be dated as early as those of Central Cregon. It would appear from what artifacts have been found, that ancient man in Wailowa County lived for most of the year along the major streams. The Grande Ronde River from Troy to Snake River and lower Joseph Creek supported many villages and camps. There is evidence of many inhabited sites along the limnaha River from Summit Creek to Snake River, with a few along the lower portions of the main tributaries such as Big Sheep

Creek, Horse Crsek, Lightning Creek and Cow Creek. There are also many village sites along the Snake River all the way from the Baker County line to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River. Perhaps one reason for the apparent dearth of d.ateable artifacts is the almost total absence of caves. The geological formations along these streams are not favorable f or the formation of caves and few have been found. There are some rather large rock overhangs and where these are favor

ably located they nearly all have evidence of human occupation. How.. ever, few if any of these offer complete protection from the ravages of weather. Nearly all of the ancient writings in this area are in the form of pictographs with very few petroglyphs. Pictographs are those writings which are painted, usually on rock, and which seek to convey ideas by means of crude pictures, signs or marks. Petroglyphs are marks, signs or pictures which have been carved, cut or pecked into a surface, also usually in rocks. Occasionally petrogiyphs are painted in, after being scored into the rocks. Pictographs are usually paint.. ed on rock wails, under rock overhangs or in caves, while petroglyphs [ E [

n U L r [ - L r r - • C . * heads mauntains, out larger fields. trated living Wailowa families achieve supply. and with Migraticns rivers, important pendent The people”. which knowledge believed sand. a colors are part this smtner meanings more roots, to There Most niy groups into together The appear of a County. to supplcrnented the reasoning. The Family seem to often complete ±-m t.tternpts which be of it of htintirig between a is Indians the berries diligent be locations )arge ascribed these anywhere and the maintained to little to a any found remote as groups, have have Twenty healthful have pictographs cannot a and winter change writings. degree to found known and The unit. as doubt on searchers. good been to interpret from oxidized where fastness fishing or or herbs much be large areas their the living method of quarters for campsites, the Thirty sub-tribal diet that removed several &nall ancient climate as marks, in as his They near isolated main normal grounds and of standpoint. conveniently the paleolithic in to this a The parties miles subsistance the in minor merely unless this hundred penetrated determine most camps writings pictures, artifacts and will area favorite units, number the mountains did boulders. or area good adjust addition near of canyons ascribe are cut usually less not years man hunters of of possible by cannot the springs etc. on away. red, into camping are the require people was from to white in and the age old but at them yield most rivers the vary this the black often be no canyons, four lower bounty There to of in probably by men places moving long seasonal proven to rock abundant doubt with area these several a the game or and to sufficient disclaim “the few elevations is moves of white. to hills a was the along but pene camas— and writings and accurate, not arrow.. dozen very the ancient become 10 food thou... bears de— reade. the in fowl and any the The to 11 I salmon streamsg near the camas fields, or near the good huckleberry r tie) ds are ztich richer in artifacts. However, iii most of these latter instances the campgrounds are now in cultivated 1fields under groves t of trees, or in well grassed areas, which of course makes it difficult r to find these artifacts. 1 The rivers of Wallowa County and some of the Creeks were exceed [ ingly ri.h in salmon. The Grande Ronde, Wenaha, Wallowa and Imnaha -ivors were the big producers of spring, summer and fail runs of the [ various siec lea of salmon. The Minarn and Lostine rivers were also good for rome o’ t?e ri.ms, and creeks such as Joseph, Bear Creek at Wailowa, L Big snd Little 5fleep and the other large tributaries of the Imnaha were [ high prcdacez There would also have been good hunting for deer and elk near mort of these streams. However, big game was uhect to [ periods of a’indance and periods of scarcity due to various càtlses but mos ly to bi die—offs during severe winters • Deer were more suscep... [ tible to thes die-off $ than elk, and modern biologists think thai perhaps the mountain sheep were least susceptible to severe winter [ losses, At any rate the salmon runs were more dependable and pale.. olithic man in Wallowa County based his econoiiy primarily on fish. L It is not known how long the Nez Perce had occupied the Wailowa L Country before the coming of white men. That they occupied this area r for many g2nerations is substantiated by tradition. Tradition also L vouches for the fact that they came into possession of horses nearly a hirncred years before Lewis and Clark’s expedition of 1804 and 1805. L The Cay’ise and Nez Perce are thought to have been the first of the n tribes of the Inland Empire to acquire the horse. They were a mounted

V people when encountered by Lewis and Clark arid had become expert horse.. men through three or four generations of handling horses. Their maimer

L

[ [ r

[ r’ r

[ -. L.

[ Ii

[

[ L

t

a

This

the

near

be

but

villages

canyon

exceptionaily

dropping

rugged

habited

for

small

believed

of upper

hunting

canyon

that

ing

influenced were

of

prosperous,

of

found

introduction

at Saddle

subject Most

their

the the

life

Pictographs

places

An

in

tribe,

more

most

portion

for

Seven

during

never

village

at so—called

there.

of

earlier

interesting

into

students

had

that

migration

Creek.

the

easily

the

village

the

were

has

the

Devils,

because

better

become

the

good

owned

the

winter

of

the

main

Sheep

been

selection

of

sites.

However,

are

times

popular

this

nearby

accomplished

of

This

Sheep

Nez

winter

winter

the

sites

many

routes

fed

greatly

crossing

not

Weiser

change

extensively

of

Indian

months.

Eater

Perce

canyon

the

horse

area

the

and

Eaters,

plentiful

which

canyons horses.

with

months

some

range

of

Nez

were

tribe

occurred

and

a

extremely altez’ed

then

no

culture

their

into

was

places,

great

the

can

Perce

had

and

longer

for

Boise

changed

a

because

for

treated

became

too

resorted

They

the branch

be tribe

through

been

camping

they

mountain

by

deal

of

occupied

in

the

which

difficult

found

Mountains

rugged

area

used

were

this

the

Hells

little

and

expanded

a

in

of

winters.

more

by

of

favorite

the

to

places.

to

the

Columbia

possession

are

and

the

good

content

Clark event.

the

sheep

country

the

the

Canyon.

mobile.

the

reaches

used

not

canyon

of

excellent

also

during

Shoshonees.

their

grass

major

upper

Wissler.

Shoshonean

access

and

Hells

wintering

necessarily

before.

Some

to

They

Basin

they

that

above

of

It

of

many

for

territory.

the

Their

live

portion

reaches

of

were

Canyon

horses

and mountain

is

can

Hells

they

area

their

s’wmners,

the

small

in

the

Joel

presumed

migrations

This

people.

ground

it

usually

more

the

in..

ascritz

at

oLthis

Canyon

old

was

of

mouth

the

is

horses

V. 12

or sheep

the

Some

camp... an

(

C

tide

Columbia

allied

by

Palouses

tribes

Mountains.

territory

of

dislodging

parts

country.

the

occupied

west,

the

and

Shoshonean

Blackfoot

beyond

the

horses

horses

foot

as

tribution

Barreman

the

the

mark

Columbi. early’

east

the

Because

suddenness

with

of

whites

and

up

were

Nez

was

reach

to

and

took

Bannock

Lake,

of

all

and

the

but

The

other

as

elaborates

became

Perce

the

raid

the

in

The

forced

tribes

swept

the

were

of

at River

1730

began

of

over

Columbia

the

of

northern

Oregon

Sahaptin

Harney

Cayuse

other

the

non...horSe

of

Snake Plains

the

Oregon

tribes

and

Indians

darrying

Cayuse

the

almost

the

or

to

before

the

which

to

horse,

time

Cayuse.

1740

prior

move

on

Sahaptin

successful

and

and

remained

territories

raid

and

approach

Palute

tribes.

east

of

tribes

the

were

on

clear

was

of

them

Maiheur owning

Bannock

on

the

the

farther

the

the

to

the

foot.

Lewis

of

subject

extensive

held

pushed

The

were

northern

historic

Klickatats,

tribes

Shoshonean

to

from

of &akes

south

the

Sahaptin

and

The

aggressors.

tribes

the

Nez

all

invasion,

Counties

by

and

west

in

Within

also

Cascades,

the

Central

use

as

farther

Washington

of

Salishan

in

south

Perce

and

tribes

Clark.

raiding

records

Shoshonean

to

because

with

rapidity

of of

the

peoples

turn

people

a

Bannocks

Yakimas,

its

horses

which

Shoshonean

held and

Oregon,

few

the

Columbia,

north

between

great

except

pushed

They

tribes

The

effects

forays

of

west.

of

years,

south

where

who

being

their

of

was

enabled

tribes

the

Umatillas,

this

beyond

then

were

success

Walla

with

retreat

a

at

the

the northern

and

bank

stock.

against

area.

they

strip

on

The

the

however,

original

At

that

pressure

drove

successful

Salishan

the

Dalles

the

had

Wallas

tribal

the

tribes

the

fartherst

Snake

because

of

were

to

along

time

exception

acquired

Probably

southern

closely

the

Blue

the the

Paiute

high

distances

the

and

dis

found from

and

tribe

with

Black...

of in

L [ r’ r

[

[

[

[

L

I.

r’ t I— -

•1

C

Wallas

feat

sured

last

unable

their

promptings

never

ons

Basin

people

first

acquiring

This

regained

former

against

Paiutes

Kiamath

They Willow

along

of

would

Indian

The

The

the

resurgence

interests

able Sometime

also

and

settloinents

fought

to

continual the

in

holdings.

Creek.

the

were

and

Nez

final

complete

the

unite

they

pcsession

have

the

of

to noted

south

war

Snakes

Modoc

Perce,

with

Deschutes

the

apparently

come

horse

early

owned

location

occurred

in

together

seemed

Lewis

of

warfare

that

bank

trappers

in

defeat

The

the

Eastern

tribes

to

the

and

Cayuse,

and

in

far Eastern

of

terms

the

and

of

whites

Tenino

to

Sahaptin

and

the

the

the

of

learning

at

not

against

with

the

more

of

demand

held

Nez

Clark

Oregon,

and

the

the

the

nineteenth

Cayuse

with

Umatilas

most

the

molested.

Columbia

Oregon

and

against

Perce

the

horses

their

missionaries.

tribes

hands

area

noted

peoples

Bannocks

united

the

them

ideal

Warm

to

Snakes

and

the

were

about

use

between

whites

homelands

than

of

the

even above

the

and

just

Umatilas

Spring

century

Cayiase,

horse

action.

was

the

the

at

and

much

Bannocks

WaUa

absence

the

1850,

under

prior

war

at

Hood

horse

no

army

there

Bannocks.

range

with

Furthermore,

Snakes

Umatila

the

sooner

a

intact

doubt

with

Wallas

leaves

regained

Even

later

the

River

to

alone.

of

fin

and

their

in tide

in

the

the

continual

settlements

and

battle.

due

than

1878

and

during

the

the

to

date

have

the

of

and

They

time

related

Snakes.

Baimocks.

to

much

the

the

Columbia

war

Cascades.

the

and

they

Sahaptin

Waila

when

traditi

their

the

were

of

northern

Umatifla.

de..

of

turned

in..

were

the

tribes

their The 15 Fron Memoirs of the r American Antoropological Association Tribal Distribution in Oregon” ‘ by L t Joel 1J• Berreman 1937 nfl—Nez Perce This was a large tribe, quite distinct linguistically, who were little affected by the Snake invasion. Spinden describes their hold... ings in Oregon as extending south as far as latitude 45°. On the SoUth west the boundary line circled the drainage basins of the Imnaha and Waiowa Rivers and crossing the Grande Ronde, ran north along the crest of the Blue Mountains to a point on Snake River near the mouth of Tukanon Creek. The bulk of their territory was, however, in Icktho. Subdivisions or bands of the Nez Perce are said to have cen.. tered about one or nore villages and generally included several fishing camps. These constituted local groups over each of which a single chief, usually a war chief, held some power. Spiiden lists five of these local groups in Oregon as follows:

1 Iiunama — the Imnaha River bands

2. Waiwama — Wallowa River band.

3. Inantoinu . On Joseph Creek.

4. Koiknmapu — above Joseph Creek on the north side of the Grande Ronde River.

5. Icawisnemepu .. near Zindels on the Grande Ronde River — (Zindels was a post office at the mouth of Joseph Creek on the Grande Ronde River) [ [ L [ [ r r r

(

C

•

Willow

whose

been Murdock’s Rivera Arlington language Hale leads at extends Columbia

(Lohime

the

The The

someimcs

says

him

lagge

where

heads

Creek,

their living

was

lower

is Cayuse

was

their recent t

sufficiently

place they claimed of

where

a territory

Umatilla

they

closely on

headquarters

trading the occupied

information

Willow

lived

the

iasua1ce tTmatiila, Mooney

by

boundary

identified

River

almost the place in

at

distinct

Creek

locates close

this Umatilla

in

indicates

Grande and between

to

in

1841

at

time

connection

the the

1870, in with to

a that

were

Ronde,

according

preference

class small

adjacent Umatila

John

(1840—1850)

that

the

when

point.

on

Waila

them remnant Day

with

and

the

the

they

River, to

and

south

Waila

to

present

The as

upper

Walla, the

the Mooney.

numbered

their

Tenino, of

a

Umatila

bank Nez

separate

Walla

rough

the and

Walla

but

site

Perce,

own.

of includes

Snakes.

which

114). Jacobs

Rivers.

country

their

Wafla

the

have

of

tribe.

16 r [ [ L [ r L F’ I] r [ [ [ L r -

c

heard with these

during of

far the

get Some equipment relations messages to to interpreters; the care and through Perce.

of of occurred

the

Lewis

Sacajawea, the Orofino,

by

exploritory it

knew

Columbia

the The

of They of

The

the

strange

Wallowa

the

returned.

Indians

Bitterroot

the the

her

Guided

Waflowa

Lewis were

and

that

in first

tales were

were were

return

property

Nez

1804

contacts Idaho,

River.

Clark.

people

Nez

delivered they

Sacajawea

division

and and recovered

by able

friendly recorded

told

period

Perce

division

when

trip

This

Mountains

Perce

Sacajawea

returned

were Clark

to Hungry

and

of had with

After

sub-chief, the

where

in

is

talk

Lewis may

with

and to to

approaching TH!

contact

the

party. been

the

the

of

Lewis certainly friendly

her a and

four

have

to

Lewis to as

onto

DAIJN

probability

the the next

the captive

and

spring

stolen

them husband

the far cold,

translations

and

of

been property

Nez Twisted the It

original

OF

and Clark

spring

‘white

Nez

as Indians

after

is one

HISTORY some Clark

Weippe

of but Perce

they

Shoshonee,

present

Clark she

possible

Perce

arbonneau

and 1805.

of

with

of Hair. Twisted men

of

were

the

of thoughts. knew expedition

had

the

they

wondered

their

left the

Prairie

white

with through

one

lapse in little

welcomed

At no

very the

major The

found that captive

wonders

the

Hair their

returning

direct any the

men

and

country

horses

above few

of

much Lapwai a At

difficulty.

came

some

was

Nez the rate tributaries

was

horses

series

Charbonneau several

by

any

Shoshonee cases

if contact

members the

down about Lola able

Perce

they and and the

cared

area to rate, the

town

during of

in

Nez months. later out Pass trade to

of - L [ L4 [ U r [j [ L r -

1. r [ r

(.

•

McClellan

he

he

going Columbia Perce. was

the up

in Thirican having mouth fort the

from penetrated

country Columbia of Blackfoot, relatio!1S

with credit for

favorably

himself

asked

the

charge

the

mouth

on

commerce

friendly

On

near

Not

Canad.a—--do

the

overland

of

a NcDougai,

Columbia arrived

North

of

January

In

for

as

the

trading

the

and many

Nez

and

of

of Tongue

with

the

impressed

an

followed

throughout the

far

Great

Nez

the

the

West

of Columbli

Snake

relations

Perce

Clerk

effort

years

great

to

there

the

Columbia

as 18,

slightly

the

Perce

trip

Snake,

David Point.

settlement hereby

Spokane

Britain

Company

the

Rivers

native

as

John 1812 as

country with

elapsed

explorers

to

in

around

where

their

they

rar

Okanogan. to

Stuart

with

keep

Thompson

the

intend River

Reed,

Astorian

ahead

Former

Lewis

souse.

divert

and and

Americans, of

as

bad

at

he around.1’

ship before

the epic

the

Vancouver

Canada

the

and

posted

that that

country.

with

Astoria

of

to

contacted

and promised.

partners

whites.

Astorians the

found

Tonquin

journey.

partners

Stuart, Palouse

a

David’s

erect

the

they

Clark,

eight

party

the reached

Astorians

with a

Thompson

while

a

Island.

notice

explorations

a

N. were

On

huge

and

the in

It

before however,

Canadians,

led nephew

factory who

the

The

Donald

out

W.

July

the

the

is

having

partner

Astorians,

able

by

gathering

there

laid Nez exception Company

up

of

to

journeyed

Thompson

North

8,

junction

getting David

Robert

McKenzie,

the the

in to the

Perce

continued

18U

the

constructed

claiming of

arrived

Alexander

this

maintain

upper

West

Snake,

of

everlasting

Stuart.

the

foundation

of

recently

Stuart

were

David

of

horses

returned

Merchants

on

of

place

Nez

Company, fur

the

Robert

Columbia

to

the

which up

at

the

Thompson

good 18

McKay

were

the traders

the and

At

a

for 19 Astoria in two canoes. The men were terribly emanciated from th. hardships they had undergone. In the fall of 1810 Donald McKenzie with an inexperienced partner of 1Astor a, named Wilson Price Hunt, had started up the Missouri with fifty odd voyagers, plus hunter Pierre Dorion, his squaw 1Marie and Dorion s two children. Also along were three more of Astor’s American partners; Robert McClellan, Ramsay Crooks and Joseph Miller. At their winter camp on the Missouri a letter from Astor had named Wilson Price Hunt to be in charge of the expedition. This McKenzie had considered a slap in the face as he had expected at least to share the command because of his more extensive experience. During the spring of 1811 the party ascended the Missouri about to the present southern boundary of North takota. Then because of reports of the hostile Blackfoot farther upstream, Hunt decided to go overland and securing 118 horses from the Arikaras and Cheyennes he traversed westward across western South Dakota and Wyoming to cross through mountain passes into today’s Idaho ti.nd on to Henry’s Pork of the ake River, where Andrew Henry liad constructed during the previous year the first post west of the continental divide. Here by the deserted log huts, the party spent nine days hollowing out sixteen canoes from cotton.. wood logs. Partner Joseph Miller and four men withdrew from the company to trap, and with four men left near the Tetons, also to trap, th party was diminished by nine men.

On October 19 the party embarked in the canoes on Henry’s Fork and descended to the Snake. The river became progressivly more turbulent, canoes floundered, precious trade goods and food was lost, one man was drowned. Finally at Shoshone and Twin Falls the canoes were abandoned. An effort was made to send a party back for

F’

unnavigable

structed

They

crossing

and

Snake

likely,

the

a

sumed

adverse

among

Snake

after

more

sections

had

the

what

parties

McKinzie

men

cached

broke

game

and

returned

the

description

they

Snake

must

main

found

went

return

horses

hungry

below

they

by

and or

the

terrible

up

since

with to the

the

would

came

most

friencily

of

have

camp

through

and

on

Nez into

Columbia. with

game

hoped

keeping

for

Hells

trade

before

the

mouths at

Salmon,

down

their

together

in

historians

four

of

Perce

but

have

gone

fragments

word

hardships,

any

Henry’s

or

United

was

that

their

Canyon

the

stream

goods

Indians.

McKinzie

Indians.

men

a

winter

makeshift

limited

to

through

found

where

which

that

the

journal

It

case

Seven

Hunt’s

at

angled

route

States,

Pork

in

is

where

main

that

as

searching

it

camps

some

blocked

they

traveling

they

they

several

a

equipment.

talked

the

Devils

also

Hunt

would

but

Some

through

and

matter

party?

northward

Columbia.

they

canoes

unknown

the

they

obtained

must

mountains

of

would

Crooks

did

neither

stayed

of

the

be

them

the

river

Mountains

kept

large

for

of

came

have through

the

John

central

that

impossible

They

undoubtedly

trails.

Nez

point.

regret

a

Furthermore, who

into

along

in

with

canoes

men

again

By

pits.

McClellan

route

out

recognized

farther

Reed

they

turned

Perce

the

led

sheer

one

wanted

going

but

Idaho. the

on

the

that

becomes

None

and

general

Meanwhile

for

and

could

this

McClellan

the

to

of

along

this

main

northward

to

have

luck

east

ahead.

two

nor

MclCinzie

the

descended

the

cross

to

of

they

Clearwater party

as

the

It

have

seems

party

return

the

navigable,

the

the

direction

struck

companions.

bank

party,

Reed

most

being

is

east,

the

the

must

and

Why

con

soon

river.

parties

three

pre

and

un

and

of was

kept

rugged

party

the

desert

to

the

three

for

add of 21 have crossed the Salmon above the Riggins..Whitebird area since there would also have been camps of friendly Nez Perce there. Thus in 1811 the Nez Perce had two brief contacts with white L me&, the first since Lewis and Clark. Wilson Price Hunt with r most of the remainder of the party finally came through to the L Columbia by crossing the Blue Mountains and striking the Columbia [ near the mouth of the Umatilla. There they secured canoes and descended the Columbia to Astoria arriving on February 15, 1812. [ Ramsey Crooks stayed behind on theSnake with John Day who was too r sick to trave1 A Canadian named Dubreuil also stayed with them. 1 Crooks and John Day were rescued the next May near the mouth of [ John Day River by John Reed and David Stuart’s party enroute down the Columbia from Okanogan. Robert Stuart was sent with dispatches overland to Astor.

With him wcnt Crooks and NcCleflen who had had enough of the wild-

Lb erness and resigned from the company. On this trip the party foilowed a route which, with some modifications, would later [ become known as the Oregon Trail. By an extraordinary coincidence [ they found ex-partner Miller and his trappers in a starving condition arid took them back to the States where they arrived in the spring L of 1813. Meanwhile McKinzie established a trading post at the mouth of the Clearwater among the Nez Perce during the summer of 1812.

He comulained that the Indians did not work hard enough at trapping the scattered beaver in their homeland. That summer John Reed was sent to salvage the trade goods Hunt had been for ced to cache on the outward trail. He was also to pick up the C trappers Hunt had left in the general vicinity of the caches. Reed did locate most of the trappers but found that the caches had been opened by the men who used the trade goods to pay friendly Indians for food and equipment. AU of the trappers had been robbed repeateily by wandering bands of red men and they had nothing to show for their hard work of trapping over a vast area. Reed took them north with him to McKinzie’s trading post at the mouth of the Clearwater. Neither Reed nor McKinzie had nnich to show for their summers work. Leaving Reed in charge at Clearwater post, MclCinzie went to Spokane to consult with his partner John Clarke about the desirability of abandoning the Snake River country entirely. While there he learned that Great Britain and the United States were at war and that a British ship had been sent to seize Astoria. Returning in haste to the Clearwater, he cached the post’s goods and taking Reed and all the men, desóended the Snake and Coluiibia in mid-January 1813 to warn Duncan McDougal of the eneny’s plans. The two partners decided to go overland to St. Lewis taking as much fur as possible. They set July 1 as the date, and the rendezvous for June 1, at the mouth of the Walla Wafla River. Meanwhile McKinzie and Reed returned to the Clearwater, and sent word to Clarke at Spokane, to begin trading for the three or four hundred horses that would be necessary for the overland trip. McKinzie had trouble trading for horses. The Indians had robbed some of his caches and he and Reed used high handed methods in recovering the goods, forceably entering tepees, slashing open packs and other potential hiding places. The Indians agreed to return his goods if he would stop this destruction. However, they ( refused to barter horses for goods, being resentful of the methods used to recover the trade goods. MclCinzie then took to pointing to the horse he wanted, offering a fair price and after being re. r He fused would shoot the animal dead. always paid for the horse (after wiich his men ate the meat) but the Indians disliked thiW’ way of dealing and after some further trouble consented to do busineas. Clarke also had trouble which culminated in an episode

whIch occurred on the way to the rendezvous. An Indian stole a silver goblet. Clarke hanged the guilty Indian in front of the irthabitarlts of the village at which they were overnight guests. Word of ii act spread swiftly to other villages and as the trappers gathered at th rendezvous large numbers of Indians began gathering nearby. Their attitude became more and more threatening and the trappers were waried by a chief that the Indians planned a mass attack. The trappers broke camp during breakfast, abandoning what horecs they had accumulated and some of their goods. They paddled hurridly for Astoria. Here they found John George McTavish

and some twenty North Westerners who had come down from Spokane ahead of them and were waiting for the British ship to seize the place. The ship was long overdue and they began to wonder if the story was a hodx. They also found out that trade had been good elsewhere. Sevcntoen packs of beaver from the Willamette and a hundred and forty from Okanogan and the upper river. David Stuart and Clarke began to object to abandoning the territory, they said that sufficinet horses could not now be obtained from the angry Indians in tizns to cross the mountains before winter, and recoin mended tiat the company remain. McKinzie and NcDougal feared that they had been abandoned by Astor and wanted to leave at all costs. Finaily a compromise was reached. They would trade for one more

at

trappers

This

men

for

Islands

and

foil

to

where

then

the

send

plications. 3

Astor.

market

Is.ands

rich

with

worked

to

Flatheads.

promised

with

Spokane

they year

Astoria

abandon

to

the

McDougal

owing

the

he

Astorians,

chartered

the

he Nea.:whil’a

cargo

meat.

be

would

the

and

proceeded

fail with

and

with

the

Flathead

Dtxa

to

arrived

Issac

assembled

and

July.

under

the

North

then

Astoria

charter

rsfit

of

Wiliamette

by

Astor

with

to

ths

leave

several

David

aniong

Astorians

±.‘r.r

the

Todd

but

another

many

if

the

Westerners

furs

Hunt

Hunt

on

to

country

the

the

was

the

a

if

ship

Hunt

Stuart

from

the,

another

August

command

to

do.

unfortunate

had

supply

partners

and

stipulation finally

Astor 1

ship.

had

not

country’.

and

take

fur

Kootenays.

Albatross

heard

the

a

been

Meanwhile,

and

waited

voyaged

hurried

years

able

20,

set

company

to

ship.

ship

s

of

over

far

Hnt

Reed

agreed

compelled

supply

of

of

relinquish

1813.

up

John

to

reaches

free

incidents

for The

did

the

the

the

that

sent

to

and hunting

to

back

get

(The

and

In

George

large

the

Astorians

not

reluctantly

Alaska,

ship

American the

North

proposed

hand

There

sailed

a

return,

he

the

to

could

Albatross

to

of

ship

expected

arrive

upper

would

their

did

camps

reinforcc:

Okanogan,

at

and

ship

sail

McTavis. West

the

he

traded

for

not

Olcanogan

to

not

post

British

the

international

also

learned

Snake.

Columbia

trading

by

go

on

for

to

Copany

the

with

the

wait

was

supply

arrive

North

to

to

Julyl,

supply

at

made

the

for

ents

Clarke

relief

Columbia

the

chartered

the

MoKinzie

They

Astoria.

project

and

for

of

McKinzie

posts

Hawaiian

fabulously

arrived

Westerners

Basin.)

a

ship

by

of

Hawaiian

Ghina

Astoria

the

among

the

deal

1811s,

raised

returned

of

the

corn..

at

from

plan

to

He the 4 25 the Union Jack at their camp close alongside the fort at Astoria. L Relations were friendly and trade was carried on between the two fl companies whose nations were at war with each other. In view of the precarious position of the Astorians, and probably because of old friendships between the principle partners of the rival companies, a deal was arranged between McDougal. of. the Astorians and McTavish of the North Westerners, whereby, the

-‘ Astorians sold to the North West Company ail their trade goods at approximately lO above the cost, their 17000 lbs. of beaver and two thousand other skins for $40,000.00 and ihe salaries of the •1 Astorian workers would be assumed by the North Westezners. Also, places provided for those men who wished to switch allegiance to the North Westerners. On October 16, 1813 the deal was closed.

The British frigate Racoon finally arrived and with appropriate ceremony, Captain Black took possession of Astoria, renaming it -J Fort George on December 13, 1813. 1 Hunt finally returned on the last day of February, 1814 to find that his company had. been sold and that Astoria was now in possession of the British. There was nothing he could do, so

on April 3 1814 he left the Columbia in the brig Pedlar for home with such men as chose to return by ship.

A few day-s later about ninety overlanders, both Astorians and North Westerners started up the Columbia for Athabaska Pass and Canada. Near the mouth of the Walla Walla an Indian woman’s voice hailooing in French stopped them. They found Marie Dorion, Pierre TDorion wife and her two children. She told them that thes mouth of the Boise River in southern Idaho, hostile near Indians had killed John Reed and his nine men, including her husband 7

(

and

McKinzie of

West

amette could seasons.

the characters.

was fur

Canadian accepted

Hudsons Canada. Canada established increased

and turn ndly winter

while In had

the

March in

Oregon bearing

frequent,

it

escaped.

The

Company

With

to

Indians

be

New

they

Company.

and

where

is

living

her

was

partners

carried

voyagers

practice

The

Bay

she

between

the hoped

York

Cowlits

Country.

were

animal.

Hudson’s

people,

the

Their

sent

the

scene

Company

had

on

debauchery

Astoriaris

on

She

had

that

the

NcKinzie trapping

man

out

competition

the

crossed

of

more

east to

the

had

wanton

so

of

asked

the

Columbia.

to

the

Many in

was The

strip

Bay

she

smoked

enraged

intense

two

remained

and

of

-bring

those

now

lowas.

North

fur

of

firmly was

Company

the

and

Astor had

crimes

of the

British

more

sections

the

out

meat

war these

verged

mountains

eventually

that

left

order rich

the

continental rivalry

West

hidden

She

for

Abenaki

Indians

entrenched

of

She

against

kept

and

of

Indians

companies,

only

Astoria

were fur

was the

a

into

Company

of

on

accompanied

two

the

job

the

lay

in

areas

the

actual

Oregon an arid

she

undependable

and

commonplace,

able

horses

the

the

North

with the

there

best divide

principIty

Iowa

overland

country

throughout

found

and

decided

Iroquois

natives Columbia

for

1he

to

Blue

warfare.

Country,

the

West

of

and that

her

that

the

return

the

arid

older

refuge

the

Mountains

American

of

wanted

two

in

that

Company.

overlanders,

she

next

no

of and

the Indians

and

in

Department

French

every

eastern

April

more

rivalry

to

children

trapping the

Western

Bloodshed

with

had

Donald

lawless

North

it

few

her

to

Fur

Wild.

possible

became

firmly

kiiled. ail

1814

to

re-

frie.

The

people.

26 27 Company, but Astor had turned him down on account of his part in selling Astoria to the North West Company. Now the North West

Company’partners offered him the munificent salary of 500 pounds a year to see what he could do about increasing the fur trade in their Columbia Department. McKinzie accepted the offer and in the fall of 1816 returned across the Athabasica Pass to Astoria, now -I Fort George. NcKinzie’ s plan to split the Columbia Department into coastal and inJ.and districts met strong opposition by James Keith who was in charge at Fort George. McKinzie had been specifically requested to exploit the Snake River area and this would drap man power and goods from Fort George, besides reducing the prestige of James Keith, moreover, the Snake area Indians were hostile, they were reluctant to do what they considered the slave labor of trapping

-‘ and the beaver colonies were widely scattered. So said James Keith. However, he gave McKinzie a motley assortment of Iroquois, Uawaiians and the less able—bodied voyagers. McKinzie then spent two years trading and exploring the country and building up good

will among the tribes. He had himself contributed to the hostile feeling of the Indians during his unfortunate experience in buying

horses from the Nez Perce for the abandonment of Astoria. In June of 1818 McKinzie returned to Fort George with a plan

that shocked John Keith. McKinzie proposed to take his own men in large brigades into the fur country and, moving from point to point, to trap the beaver -theme1veG since the. inland tribes could not be persuaded to work at trapping. He also planned to build a new post on the Snake at the mouth of the Walla Walla River. Off.. C icial orders were received trom Fort William for Keith to comply with MeKinzie’s request. Keith reluctantly turned over to McKinzie EDare

the

to McKinzie

of

hieroglyphically the Snake traveling but boundless,

was called wall hole for against Waila in

terials by tribes. these

of

one

convince

his

the

peace wonen

armed

Northwest

he

protected special

hwdred *ine-.LQ

The

NcKinzie

balustrades.

12

Mckinzie

River

River. claims

work

detested the

main

attack

being

feet

allowed brigades

with

He parties.

tended

accounts

gigantic

“To

the

and

Country,

councils. gate

also men

high.

and

would

left

by

used Logs the

then

travel

by

native

observations.

spending

and

the

to

with

and won

made an

included

fire.

Snakes,

were

Alexander

Two had

u Indians built for

be

be

NcKinzie

There

outer

great

camps

if

no

their

a

a

peace

tribes

taken

much

large

to

construction,

Donald pencil

often day’s

Indians

five

Trade

Fort

wall were

be their

quantities

and

many

promise demanded

richer,

with

along

Ross

water

“Perpetual

floated

of

minutes

kept

journey

Nez

dressed

McKinzie

or

was

bastions nearly

Indian

were

hereditary

his

the

it

piece

in

Perce

for

on

tanks

that carried

and

well

exorbitant

peaceful

charge all

but to Nez

of

a writing

on

20

the morale wives

had

particularly

beaver

of

Motion.”

owed they and the at

supplies.

were

snowshoes

McKinzie

Perce

worth feet

furs,

coal.”

the on enemies.

kept

of

site galleries

of

would

inside

intentions,

building

in

through

added high

skin, the

mouth

prices and

the

the

leaving

a

a

from

His

finally

was The

good

new

journal. make

and

associated

extra

trappers

the as

written

that

Fort of

with

enerr

the a

for

purposes

history

his

by fort. protection

record

wicker

the

treaties fort

the

supplies

also

of mountains

the

Nez an

settled

delight,

loop..

Walla

men

which

the

was His

except

inner

mat...

Ross

Perce

28

of

out

and and horses necessary. The brigades only stayed long enough to trap, in any one locality until the cream of the crop was skimmed off and trapping success diminished, then the brigade moved camp to the next vafley. The majority of McKlnzie’s trappers were Iroquois who were often unreliable and required st’ict dicipline.

The men were safe from the native tribes while in brigade strength

but stragglers were always in danger. Two Sandwich Islanders

were killed along the Owyhee River in Southeastern Oregon. This

river bears the name Owyhee from this happening. (Hawaii was spelled Owyhee at that time.) MclCinzie’ a pack trains bringing supplies to the brigades and taking furs to the fort had. many close calls end skirmishes. McKinzie trapped as far east as the Tetons and Jackson Hole. Bear River yielded rich catches of beaver as did many streams in

Southern Idaho, and Eastern Oregon. On one trip to Fort Nez Perce he had to round up one hundred and fifty four horses to pack the furs. In July 192]. McKinzies five year contract was up. He

stayed at Fort Nez Perce with Alexander Ross until ápring and then left the country, never to return. MclCinzie’s influence in the Snake River country was very pronounced. He laid the foundation for better relations with the Nez Perce and related tribes during his last five years in the area, overcoming to a large extent the previous blunders of him.. self and the Astorians. He established better relations with the Snake and Bannocks although white stragglers were not safe in their country. Meanwhile, great changes took place elsewhere during this time and before McKinzie left, the great rival fur companies, Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company, combined under the name of Hudson’s Bay Company 30 It was during MeKinzie last five years in the Columbia Department for the tsNorth Nest Company that a shadowy figure appears on the pages of history, whose influence was profound on the Flathead tribe arid the Nez Perce tribe and to a lesser degree on all the Shahaptan tribal relatives of the Nez Perce. Bancroft mentions him as Ignace, and Iroquois Indian

Evangelist who appeared among the Flatheads in 1816. He preached a highly ethical religion with elements of the Catholic faith intermingled with those of Protestantism. He was the first man to systematically endeavor to convert these peqple to Christianity.

He told them of the Great Father, the Creator of all things, and of the white manes book, the Bible, that taught all men bow to live if they wished to reach the spirit land after death. Tribal tradition among the Flatheads, Nez Perce, Yakimas and Cayuse tell of the great throngs that gathered to hear him preach. This man evidently spent several years among these tribes and instilled a deep sense of religion into these people, already of a higher moral character than many of the northwest tribes. Subsequent explorers remarked about the unexpected high morals and religious attitudes among these tribes. Wyeth the fur trader wrote, “1 know not of their religion. I saw no images or objects of worship, and yet they do not hunt nor gamble, but mope around on Sunday. There certainly appeared among them honor and a sense of justice,” Townsend was amazed at their religious character, he wrote, “I was never more gratified by an exhibition of worship in my life.” Bonneville said, “They are very devotional and will not move their lodges or labor on Sunday.” This is probably the background cause that impelled the Nez per pack; A. M. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 31 packs. This year A. M. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 44 packs, and sustained great loss in horses taken by the Auricenis; again the same party lost 17 men by desertion taking each 2 horses and six traps. As to the Indians, that the Pawnees reside on the lower Platte in several bands amounting to about 1200 warriors, they are well mounted, and war with the Crows, the Sioux,Shians, and Auricenis, make their hunting grounds in the Black Hills. 2500 Sioux, 400 Shians, 1600 Auricenis, they reside on the Missouri and wage war upon the

Crows and Pawnees. They are extremely war like and are well mounted.

The Crbwst horses range upon the Yellowstone and headwaters of the Platte, about 1500 strong in three villages, fight with the Black Foot and the Arepehoes. The Crows have good horses and I believe the best buffalo country in the world. The Arepehoes range upon the beads of the Arkansas and Canadian and are very numerous, fight also with the Shoshones. The Shoshones, a poor, unwarlike race, some few who have arme an&horsésvénture to descend into the plains in villages but they are generally dispersed by twos and threes into the mountains without horses, without arms but the stone point arrow, and depending upon their numerous dogs to take the mountain sheep. They are met with in almost every mountain running from everybody and are termed Diegere de PitieR ie. Worthy of Pity. They will steal and kill whenever a good opportunity offers. Their villages are generally more friendly, tho dangerous to be met alone. They range about the Salt Lake. The Baocks in lages abt 400 warris mostly afoot live about the falls of Lewis River. There, during the summer months 32 T HUDSON’SBAYC2WANY

Under the joint occupancy treaty between Great Britain and the United States, both nations were entitled to occupy the Oregon Country, The Hudson’s Bay Company being on the ground with strategically b.. cated forts and trading posts had a tremendous advantage over the -J Americans, who had no forts at all in the Oregon Country. However, 1 it seems that most reasonable men in the governments of both countries expected that eventually the Oregon Country would be divided on I compromise basis along the Columbia River as a boundary line, The country north and west of the river to be British and south and east to be American. Many Americans, no doubt chiefly for bargaing. purposes, advocated taking over the Oregon Country all the way to the southern edge of Russian held Alaska, at latitude fiftyfour degrees and forty minutes. Meanwhile Great Britain offered the Columbia River as a suitable international boundary line. j After the consolidation of the North West Company with the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1829k for a few years it seems that the affairs of the company in the Oregon Country suffered for lack of a strong capable leader. The Company directors in 1824 sent young George Simpson to initiate new policies in the Oregon Country, make necessary personnel changes and otherwise place the Columbia Dep.. artmnt on a paying basis. In addition, he was directed, as a matter of upmost importance, to deter the advance of the American 1and trappers by hunting bare the approaches to the Columbia, thus

- - removing the incentive to push across the continental - - 1divide’ Concurrently, he was to enter actively into the sea trade to drive out the Yankee sea peddlers. Finally, he was to abandon Fort George (Astoria) which was on the south bank of the Columbia

escorted

Ross’s

Jedediah

Snake

River

Alexander

plant

United

clean the

the

Vancouver

instructions

thirty—one

he

(Astoria)

policies.

Columbia

arrived

far

disliked,

the

there

was

liel

and

built

Russians;

long

On

flung

Company.

Indians

country,

locate

further

gardens--and

of

Simpson

Iroquois

of

States

build

the

the

Smith,

at

fur

neglected

latitude

Ross

a

about

to

on

domain.

as

head

way

fort

McLaughlin

Fort

destitute

a

bearing

which

March

a

for

the

ordered

territory;

the

finish

selected

because

temporary

as

with

permanent

of

back

six

of

and

George,

McLaughlin.

new

brigade

man

everything

somewhere

keep

coastal

led

19,

cattle miles

About

six

across transferred

animals

building

to

establishment

best

Iroquois

of

selected

John

the

1825.

those

Americans,

post

select

where

central

alleged

leader

above

send

October

and

qualified

trade;

Snakes

the

McLaughlin,

near

the

they

on

expenses

Fort

Stop

Simpson

seventeen

they

other

to

a

the

a

continental

the

the

of

country

depot

the

high

site

new

10,

Ross’s

possessed. open

to

Langley

then

all

which

the mouth

proceeded

north

moveable

brigades

to

mouth

robbing

site

1824,

well

left

handed

down

and

business,

traffic

trappers

be

a

appeared

hogs,

between

camp.

Simpson

of

man

bank

on

put

western

I

on

north

of

these

divide

Simpson

the

a

tactics

goods,

the

to

whom

south

the

the

The

from

in

in

detached

of

Ross

working

Willamette

initiate

the

if

on

of

final

christened

north

charge

Fraser;

Frazier

alcohol;

the

American

Simpson

he

headquarters

Fort

toward

and

possible,

the the

including

Columbia

then

with

personally

Columbia.

definite

bank

McLaughlin

49th

scene portion

George

the

of

the

River

let

sweep

certain

fired

California;

develop

trapper,

where

this

Fort

Snake

of

para

new

and

with

them

and

the

for

and

33

of He Bay

served conservation

Americans,

this

settlers.

to and

next whirlwind of supplies pushed Canadians

to Ogden, Columbia were. became and with to the

accompany

Simpson’s

the

the

supervise

our

Coupany

Ogden

the

Americans

However, way

decade

In any Simpson

to

time

Oregon with

knowledge a

the his territory

of and

had

alien

school

alienate

held

arid

of

warning

him

it

bad

when life.

desired only

large place

of

raising

been

activity

the

took

was

the

Iroquois country.

back

of

back

trappers

previously

fur

teacher

the

stragglers

creating

of

scouting

policy

to

made

brigades

Ross of

Simpson that

to

When

to

bearing

the

result

the

be

decline the

the

a

during

flathead

by

back so

Ross

large

by

the

American

He

and that early

of

prices

Americans

reducing

unprofitable put of the

enjoyed

missionaries

did

arid operating

wildlife

ruthless

Oregon

would

was later

to

of

the a

he

degree

Peter

Oregon country

this

the

fur

the

Post

profits

paid

might

to

mountain

years

venture

wrote

from

country

the

desert

Red have east southwestern

by

Skeen

on

the

in trapping

them

out

Country.

for

encounter.

insuring

1825 charges for River

the

the

the

and

in

no the

of

good

of

men

for

across between

Ogden furs

was

the

trapping

the

association

Clark

Indian

Snake

land

book through

Fort

Settlements

will

without

furs.

later

fur to

or

continental which

the

approaches

as

hungry

which

it Nez

Fork,

River

many

the

the

Simpson

tribes

that

trade

brigade

loyalty

to

that

1828,

occupied

Thus,

they Perce

regard

trappers

Columbia

years,

the

whatsoever

added

despite

the drainage

pioneer

out

where

during

throughout

accom no

suspected

McLaughlin

heart

leader divide. to

in

Hudson’s

of

to

dated

doubt

greatly

by

in

a the

his

for he River

34

the

fact, -j -‘ —

C

C

of

archives MoComb

on

particular on. artment.

wagons had Wyeth,

was

captain through denied Island Americans Ha].]. American Captain that friendly John overland on

the

his

the

a

cared

Of

Meanwhile McLaughlin.

During

Jackson area.

On

commission

War

return

on

across

back the

at

Columbia

interest

on

B. South

October

of

welcome trappers

to

July

Since

the

for by

Department

historical

extended hospitality L.

the

on the Fort This

most

Kefley

to

E. mouth the

at Pass

29,

his

in

War

his

winter

and

29,

the

now

to

Bonneville Fort Vancouver

in for

Wyeth

1832 Continental

in of

1835.

as

second

Department.

trip look leave

of THE 1832 turn, caine

supplying

States,

is

the the the

that

interest,

Vancouver,

far

while

the of

of

a

planned F]ST

into

over up Rocky

Nathaniel first

Indian

This

report

to

as

trip, the resulted

1834-35

he

Wiilamette.

where

took

from

could

Wyeth

catch Green

had

the

the

Divide.

Hudson’s

trade

OF

report

Mountains.

advance

it

was

tribes to

It

submitted

but twenty

THE they

California.

been

Oregon

Oregon

Ewing

not

will

was furs Wyeth

River.

make

in

will

building

goods

Ewing

AMERICANS

was

received

setting

authorized

convince

Bonneville movement

Bay

enroute of

be

wagons for

Young

a

be

Country

Country

and

lost

business

the

and

to treated

Young’s

These

Company.

recalled

himself

a

10

Major

with

Snake the Kelly,

equipment

for

to across post

the

the

of

followers

in were

for

to

was

the

stage

years

in

the party hospitality

of seven

changed

General

1834

and

River

on

take

that

the

being Nathaniel

detail

the an the

Columbia,

curing

Wapato

later

company to

for

among War

is were

men army

his

Bonneville,

plains,

country. first

came

the

sick,

personnel

Alexander

of

a

farther

Dep

and

salmon

extended

the

of

and have

turn

which have

collecting Washington.

too heart in Columbia the letter, Columbia, expected. travels General: during exist. leave is from interviews interceded Irving,

the

the

much Yellowstone,

been

at presumed

This This

information

will

of

and

Cottonais

this

only-

present

which wrote

are

upon and

the

laughable

I

he country

is

•

certain certainly

As

in

have

period

authentic known,

Rocky

going Miss

a

It could

this your

yet,

his his

is

copy

could

is

the

therefore

Country the

secured

Elsie behalf

I famous

much,

information

to Mountains, not

I

goodness

of from

in

made as

find

be

may

Platte, property

have

the

anxiously

report

the

the

get

in

this Little

were

book and and from say is from

South

extreme. afforded

the

remained.

reinstated

journals

to much

New

the I book by

ordered

I

a Bonneville’s or

of

UThe

respecting

have made

course explore

West

not

waiting

photostatic

Bonneville

Lolidorio,

more

Colorado in

Jucge

that

Adventures

but

aware

were

actually

other the

toward I his

of I until

extensive

have

the

E.

our

Crow

half

hope

that

translation.

next

reinstatement.

lost.

how words,

this

V.

of

North himself knowledge

journals

constantly to

California

President

copy Country

a

Wind

visited, the I the

Kuykendall

desirous fall.

of

winter

have

story, country,

than

This

West,

author,

of the

Captain

of

River

July

that

not the and the

head

I

of I following

which

Andrew

only, on

you would

kept

on and

could 29,

personal

and

Bonneville1

trespassed

is

original

Columbia of

Washington

Bonneville” It

the

waters

my

are known

1833 Potueroy, the

was would

my

e

the

return, Jackson

not Lower have

journal,

36 re

report

of

to

of

$ making daily observations of courses, country, Indians, and in fine, of every thing I supposed could be interesting.

The information I have already obtained authorizes me to say this much; that if our government ever intend taking possession of Oregon, the sooner it shall be done the better and at present I deem a Subaltern’s command equal to enforce ail the instructions and views of our government. Although a Subaltern’s command is equal to the 1task yet I would recommend a full company, whichby bringing provisions to last late June could then live upon the salmon which abound there during the summer and fall, and farming for then..

selves for the next year could- subsist themselves well. Five men there would be as safe as one hundred either from the Indians who are extremely peaceable and honest, or from the establishments of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who are themselves too much expanded by their numerous small posts ever to offer the least violence to the smallest force. They have a trading post at the mouth, of three or four men t oppose-:aU trading vessels, another above Vancouver which is strongly built and capable of a garrison of one hundred and eighty men. Here they have farms, mills and every convenience of old settlements manned by half breeds, Indians, and some Canadians, but they are generally distributed as trapping companies who fre.. quently remain about a year. Waila Wallah a port still higher up on the left bank of Columbia, handsomely built, but garrisoned by only 3 to 5 men may easily be reduced by fire or want of wood which they obtained from the drift.

Colville, another port upon the North Fork, is also feeble, 3 to 5 men there keep off opposition and trade. The returns from Vancouver,

Waila Wallah and Colvifle do not exceed 3,000 skins, which may be -‘ 1

-I

the

the

men.

foot were, 100 30 by the Woolens Missouri; it

carriage arid named on ctures north

greatest obtain deluged fertile

country. immense. Columbia, considered so

men

in the

stealth.

anxious

men, same

American

their

Indians

The

The

The 1810,

to

here,

of

who

by

Colorado,

from

Ron

at at

and

time

history

gradually abundance steal of Hudson

Columbia

A.

they every

the other

These

remained

half

trifling to the

trapping

the

their the

extensive

M.

on

Fur

of

visit. lands

their

even

rise

Lewis

the

means Americans, Wallamet,

Company articles price,

are Bay

Mm).

the of

Company.

and

Indians

increasing

and

Yellowstone.

about

this

speak at the are for

of

and Head

own

Riv’er

and

in As values from

at present

the

flour

about

their

countries

of

trading,

country fur, their to

àf

Jones

5 waters

trifling of at runs

that

So river, towards the

and

years

trade the

making

and

$1

1816 to making you

expense,

in

power, best, have

through

with

on

the

prime

cultivation

their

is

of tobacco

the

Mr.

then

generally reaching

see, but

I

the

sent

expense, the

this, latter a

the have

every

about

world,

the secret

Henry

not

fort

the

cost,

three

totally present

the but

one Californias

Mml.

Arkansas,

not they timber

first

Multnoznah

on advantage

80

Americans have

on them from

of

also

rendezvous wheat, employing

of compared

shells

forks

and

yet

the

men,

the

raise,

the

number defeated

the

the New to by abundant,

entered Jones

examined

Columbia,

Big the most

built

of

bottoms water avoid

their they

corn

Hudson

Colidorjo

or,

over

have

to

horses

the

between

of Horn

Platte,

with

and beautiful,

•

by

the as

and

fish

forts

about it

returns their

the

in

Missouri,

but to, and

the

Bay but of trading to

it

about about

land

the they tobacco

Americans.

for,

now to

80 the as

the

it is

oppose

on

B1ack.

entered 280

even

stru

38

the and are

it is

am wa’s also defeated by the Blackfoot Indiane on Three Forks. In 1825 General Ashley came in with about 50 men, met the Hudson Bay on Lewis River, on the point of fighting with them, however, took frog them the Iroquois and their furs, subsequently himself was deafeated by the Arepehoes on the headwaters of the Colorado, and lost all his horses, 120 head. Ashley then sold out to his clerks Smith, Jackson and Sablette who raised their number to 130 men, who in 1830 sold out to their clerks and best trappers, Fitzpattrick, Younger Sablette, Bridges, Frep. and Farris who now remain in the country with about 80 to 90 men. Drips, Fontenette, Pilcher, Vanderburgh and Benjamin

came in a firm in 1821 with about 75 men, reached the head of the Platte, there lost all their horses by the Arepehoes, then caching

the greater part of their merchandise and packing their men in the winter got lost in the deep snow finally dispersed. Drips, Fontenette

and Vanderburgh offering their services to the A. M. C. increased their number to 160 men. Gantt came up in 1831 with about 50 men, mostly afoot, done little then retired to the head waters of-the Arkansas, where I understand he has opened a trade with the Camancbe, the Arepehoes and Shians. The above I think will give you a tolerably correct idea of the great quantities of furs must have been taken from the country in

order to keep alive so many companies at such great expense in men and horses. This country may be said at present to be poor, but beaver increases so rapidly that any part permitted to- rest three years is said to be as rich as at first. The companies therefore en deavor to ascertain each others hunting grounds and to conceal theirs

- and even-their suceesseser:disasters. Last year Fitzpatrick’s c company in their 2 year trapping sent down about 150 packs, 60 skins per pack; A. M. C. and Fitzpatriclcs appear to have each about 31

packs. This year A. M. C. and ?itzpatricks appear to have each about

44 packs, and sustained great 1055 in horses taken by the Auricenis; again the same party lost 17 men by desertion taking each 2 horses

• and six traps.

As to the Indians, that the Pawnees reside on the lower Platte in several bands amounting to about 1200 warriors, they are well mounted, and war with the Crows, the Sioux,Shians, and Auricenis,

make their hunting grounds in the Black Hills. 2500 Sioux, 400 Shians, 1600 Auricenis, they reside on the Missouri and wage war upon the

Crows and Pawnees. They are extremely war like and are well mounted.

The CrowsT horses range upon the Yellowstone and headwaters of the Platte, about 1500 strong in three villages, fight with the Black Foot and the Arepehoes. The Crows have good horses and I believe the best buffalo country in the world. The Arepehoes range upon the heads of the Arkansas and Canadian and are very numerous, fight also with the Shoshones. The Shoshones, a poor, unwarlike race, some few who have arms andhorsèa veiture to descend into the plains in villages but they are generally dispersed by twos and threes into the mountains without horses, without arms but the stone point 8arrow and depending upon their numerous dogs to take the mountain sheep. They are met with in almost every mountain running from everybody and are termed 1’Diegere de Pitie” ie. Worthy of Pity. They will steal and kill whenever a good opportunity offers. Their villages are generally more friendly, tho dangerous to be met alone. They range about the Salt Lake. -:.. The Bannocksin 1ages abt 400 warrrs mostly afoot live c alout the falls of Lewis River. There, during the Summer months 32

THEHUDSON’SBAYCC!IPANY

Under the joint occupancy treaty between Great Britain and the United States, both nations were entitled to occupy the Oregon Country. L The Hudson’s Bay Company being on the ground with strategically low. cated fort8and trading posts had a tremendous advantage over the L Americans, who had no forts at all in the Oregon Country. However, E it seems that most reasonable men in the governments of both countries expected that eventually the Oregon Country would be divided on i L compromise basis along the Columbia River as a boundary line. The country north and west of the river to be British and south and east E - to be Americana ny Americans, no doubt chiefly for bargaig purposes, advocated taking over the Oregon Country all the way to the southern edge of Russian held Alaska, at latitude fiftyfour degrees and forty minutes. Meanwhile Great Britain offered the Columbia River as a suitable international boundary line. After the consolidation of the Morth West Companywith the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1829, for a few years it seems that the affairs of the company in the Oregon Country suffered f or lack of a strong capable leader. The Company directors in 1824 sent young George Simpson to initiate- new policies in the Oregon Country make necessary personnel changes and otherwise place the Columbia Dep..

artmçnt on a paying basis. In addition, he was directed, as a matter of uost importance, to deter the advance of the Anierlcan 1and trappers by hunting bare the approaches to the Columbia, thus removing the Americ’s incentive to push across the continental

- - 11divide Concurrently, he was to enter actively into the sea trade - to drive out the Yankee sea peddlers. Finally, he was to abandon — L Fort George (Astoria) which was on the south bank of the Columbia

c-.

escorted

Jedediah

Roasts

River

Snake

Alexander

plant

United

the

clean

the

Vancouver

instructions

thirty—one

he

(Astoria)

policies.

Columbia

arrived

far

disliked,

the

there

was

ilel

arid

built

Russians;

long

On

flung

Company.

Indians

further

locate

country,

gardens—-and

of

Simpson

Iroquois

of

States

build

the

the

Smith,

at

fur

neglected

latitude

a

Ross

about

to

on

domain.

as

head

way

fort McLaughlin

Fort

destitute

a

hearing

a

which March

for

the ordered

territory;

the

finish selected

because temporary

as

with

permanent

of

back

six

and

of

George,

McLaughlin.

new

brigade

man

everything

somewhere

keep

coastal

19,

led

cattle miles

About

six

transferred

across

building

animals

to

establishment

best

Iroquois

of

selected

John

the

1825.

those

Americans,

post

select

where

central

alleged

leader

above

send October

and

qualified

trade;

Snakes

the

McLaughlin,

near

the

they

on

expenses

Fort

Stop

Simpson

seventeen

they

other

to

a

the

a

continental

the

the

of

country

depot

the

high

site

new

10,

Rosst

possessed. open

to

Langley

then

all

which

the mouth

proceeded

north

moveable

brigades

to

mouth

robbing

site 1824,

well

left

handed

down

and

business,

a

traffic

trappers

be

a

appeared

hogs,

between

camp.

Simpson

of

man

bank

on

put

western

I on

north

of

these

divide

Simpson

the

a

tactics

goods,

the

to

whom

south

the

the

The

from

in

in

detached

of

Ross

working

Willamette

initiate

the

if

on

of

final

christened

north

charge

Fraser;

Frazier

alcohol;

American

the

Simpson

he

headquarters

Fort

toward

and

possible,

the

the

including

Columbia

then

with

personally

Columbia.

definite

bank

McLaughlin

49th

scene

portion

George

the

of

the

River

let

sweep

certain

fired

California;

develop

trapper,

where

this

Fort

Snake

of

para

new

an4

with

them

and

the

for

and

33

of He Bay

served

conservation

Americans,

settlers. this

to and

next

supplies whirlwind of Canadians plished

Ogden, to Columbia were. and became to with the

accompany

Simpson’s

the

the

supervise

our

Company

Ogden

the

Americans

However, way

decade

In any Simpson

to

time

with Oregon

knowledge a

the his territory

of and

had

alien

school

alienate

held

and

of

warning

him

it

had

when life.

desired

only

large

place

of

raising

been

activity

the

took

was the

country. Iroquois

back

of

back

trappers previously

fur

teacher

the

stragglers

creating

of

scouting

policy

to

made

brigades

Ross of

Simpson

that

to

When

to

bearing

the

result

the

be

decline

the

the

a

during

flathead

by

back so

Ross

large

by

the

American

He

and

that early

of

prices

Americana

reducing

unprofitable put

of the

enjoyed

missionaries

did

and

operating

wildlife

ruthless

Oregon

would

was later to

of

the a

he

degree

Peter

Oregon

country

this

the

fur the

Post

profits

paid

might

to

mountain

years

venture

wrote

from

country

the

desert southwestern east Red

have

by

Skeen

on

the

trapping in

them

out

Country.

for

encounter.

insuring

1825 charges for

River

the

the

the

and

in

no the of

good

of

men

for

across

between

Ogden

furs

was

the

trapping

the

association

Clark

Indian

Snake

land

through book Fort

Settlements

will

without

for

furs.

later

fur to

continental which

the

approaches

as

hungry

which it

Nez

Fork,

River

many

the

the

Simpson

tribes that

trade

brigade

loyalty

to

that

1828,

occupied

Thus,

Perce they

regard

trappers

Columbia

years,

the

whatsoever

added despite

the drainage

pioneer

out

where during

throughout

accom..

no

suspected

McLaughlin

heart

to divide. leader

in

Hudson7

of

to

dated

doubt

greatly

by

in

a the

his

for he River

the

fact,

a C

of

McComb archives on

particular on.

artment. wagons Wyeth, had

was

captain through Island denied Hail American

Captain Americans friendly that John overland on

the

his

the

a

cared

Of

McLaughlin. Meanwhile

During

Jackson area.

On

commission

War

return

on

across back

the at

Columbia

interest

on

South B.

October

of

welcome

trappers to

July

Since

the by

for

Department

historical

extended L. hospitality

the

the This Fort on

most Kelley

to

mouth E. the at Pass

29,

his

in

War

his

winter

and

29,

the

now

to

Bonneville Fort Vancouver for in

Wyeth 1832

Continental

in of

1833.

as

second

Department.

leave trip

look

of THE 1832 turn, came

supplying

States,

is

the the the

that

interest,

Vancouver, far

while

the

of

of

a

planned

FIRST

into

over up

Rocky Nathaniel first

Indian

This

report

to

as trip, resulted the 1834-35

lie

Willamette.

where

took

from

could

Wyeth

catch Green

had

the

the

Divide.

Hudsont

trade OF

report

Mountains.

advance

it

was

to tribes

It

submitted

twenty but

they THE

California.

been

Oregon

Oregon

Ewing

not

will

Wyeth

was furs

River. make

in

will

building

goods

Ewing AMERICANS

a

was

received

setting

authorized

convince

movement

Bonneviile

Bay enroute

of

be

for wagons Young

a

be

Country

Country

and

lost

business

the

and

to

treated

Youngts

These

Company.

recalled

himself

a 10

Major

with

the Snake

Kelly, equipment

for

post across to

the

the

of

followers

were in

for

to

was

the

stage

years

in

the

party hospitality

of

seven

changed

General

1834

and

River

on

take

that

the

Nathaniel being

detail

an the

the

Columbia, curing

Wapato

later

company for to

among War

were men is

army

his

Bonneville,

plains,

country.

first came

the

sick,

personnel

Alexander

a of

farther

Dep-.

and

salmon

extended

the

of

and L r [ [ L Li 1_I [ L r r

have

turn

have which

Washington. collecting too heart

Columbia the letter, in travels leave expected. during General: Columbia, exist. from interviews interceded is Irving,

the

the

much Yellowstone,

been at presumed

This This

information

will

of and

Cottonais thjs

only

present

wrote which

are

upon

and

the

laughable

he

I

country is

•

certain As certainly

in

have

period known,

authentic

Rocky Miss going

a It could

this your

yet, his his

is

copy

could

is

the

therefore

Country the

secured

behalf Elsie

famous I

much,

information to not Mountains

I

of goodness from

in

made as

find

be may

property

Platte,

have

the

anxiously

report

the

the

get

in this

Little

were

book

and and

from

say from is

South

extreme. afforded the

remained. reinstated

journals

to much

New book the I by ordered

I

a

or Bonneville’ of

‘tThe

respecting

have made

course explore

West

not

waiting

photostatic

Bonneville

Lolidorlo,

more

Colorado in JucLge

that

Adventures

bxt

aware

were

actually

other the

toward his I

of

I until

extensive

have

the

E.

our

Crow

half

hope that

translation.

next

reinstatement.

lost.

a

how words, this

V. of

himself North knowledge

journals

to constantly

California President

copy

Country

a

Wind

visited, the the KuykendaU I

desirous

fall.

of

winter

have country, story,

This than

West,

author,

the

of Captain of

River July

that

not

the and the

head

I

of

I following

which

Andrew

only, on

you

would

kept

on and 29, could

personal

and Bonnevillet trespassed

is original

Columbia of

Washington

Bonneville” It

the

my waters

known are 1833 Pomeroy,

the

was

would

my

e the

Jackson

return, Lower not have

journal,

36 report re

of

to

of

a making daily observations of courses, country, Indians, and in fine, L of every thing I supposed could be interesting. The information I have already obtained authorizes me to say t.. this much; that if our government ever intend taking possession of Oregon, the seonerit’shafl be done the better and at present I deem a Subaltern’s command equal to enforce ail the instructions [ and views of our government. Although a Subaltern’s command is equal to the task, yet I would recommend a full company, which by L bringing provisions to last late June could then live upon the salmon which abound there during the summer and fall, and farming for them [ - - selves for the next year could- subsist themselves well. Five men [ there would be as safe as one hundred either from the Indians who are extremely peaceable and honest, or from the establishments of [ the Hudsong Bay Company, who are themselves too much expanded by r their numerous small posts ever to offer the least violence to the Li smallest force. They have a trading post at. the mouth, of three or [ - four men tG oppose-a11 trading vessels, another above Vancouver which is strongly built and capable of a garrison of one hundred and [ eighty men. Here they have farms, mills and every convenience of old settlements manned by half breeds, Indians, and some Canadians, L but they are generally distributed as trapping companies who fre quently remain about a year. Wafla Waflah a port still higher up on the left bank of Columbia,

handsomely built, but garrisoned by only 3 to .5 men may easily be reduced by Lire or want of wood which they obtained from the drift.

- - Colvil].e, another port upon the North Fork, is also feeble, 3 to 5 men there keep off opposition and trade. The returns from Vancouver,

Waila Wallab and Colvilie do not exceed 3,000 skins, which may be r

[ r -

C

the

the

men.

foot were, 30 100 by it Woolens the Missouri;

and ctures named on carriage greatest north obtain deluged fertile

country. immense. Columbia, considered so

men

in

the

stealth.

anxious

fig

men, same

American

their

Indians

The

The

1810, The

to

here,

of

who

by

Colorado, from

Horn

at at

arid

time

history

gradually steal

of abundance

Hudson

Columbia

A.

they every

other the These

remained

half

the to trifling

trapping

the

their the

extensive

M.

on -

Fur

of

visit. lands

their

even

rise

Levis

the

means

Company Americans, Wallamet,

articles price,

Bay

are

Mini,

of the

Company.

and

Indians

increasing

and

Yellowstone.

about

this

speak

at are the for of

and

own Head

River

and

values in As from

at present the

flour

about

their

of countries

trading,

fur,

countrr their

to àf

Jones

5 waters

trifling at of runs

that

So

river, towards the

and

years

trade

the

making

and

$1

1816 to making you

expense,

in

power,

have best, through

with

on

the

prime

cultivation

their

is

of tobacco the

Mr.

then

generally

reaching

see,

but

I

the

sent

expense, the

this,

a latter have

the

every

about

world,

secret

the

Henry

not fort

the

cost,

three

totally present

the but

one

Californias

Mml.

Arkansas,

not they

timber

first

Multnomah

on

advantage

80

Americans have

them from on

of

also

rendezvous

employing wheat,

compared of

shells

forks

and

yet the

men,

the

raise,

the

defeated number

the

the

to

by New

abundant,

entered Jones

Columbia, examined

Big the most

built

of

water avoid bottoms

they their

corn

Hudson

Colidorio or,

over

have

to

horses

the

between

of Horn

Platte,

with

and

beautiful,

by

the as

and fish

forts about

it

their returns

the

in

Missouri,

to,

and but

the

Bay

trading but to of

it

about about

land

the they tobacco

Americans.

for,

80 as now to

the the

is it

oppose

on Black..

280 entered

even stru..

38

and the

are

it

is

am was also defeated by the Blackfoot Indians on Three Forks. In 1825 General Ashley came in with about 50 men, met the Hudson Bay on Lewis River, on the point of fighting with them, however, took from them the Iroquois and their furs, subsequently himself was deafeated by the Arepehoes on the headwaters of the Colorado, and lost all his horses, 120 head. Ashley then sold out to his clerks Smith, Jackson and Sablette who raised their number to 130 men, who in 1830 sold out to their clerks and best trappers. Fitzpattrick, Younger Sablette, Bridges, Prep. and F’arris who now remain in the country with about 80 to 90 men. Drips, Fontenette, Pilaher, Vanderburgh and Benjamin

came in a firm in 1821 with about 75 men, reached the head of the Platte, there lost all their horses by the Arepehoes, then caching the greater part of their merchandise and packing their men in the winter got lost in the deep snow finally dispersed. Drips, Fontenette

and Vanderburgh offering their services to the A. M. C. increased their number to 160 men. Gantt came up in 1831 with about 50 men, mostly afoot, done little then retired to the head waters ot the Arkansas, where I understand he has opened a trade with the Camanche, the Arepehoes and Shians. The above I think will give you a tolerably correct idea of the great quantities of furs must have been taken from the country in

order to keep alive so many companies at such great expense in men and horses. This country may be said at present to be poor, but beaver increases so rapidly that any part permitted to- rest three years is said to be as rich as at first, The companies therefore en deavor to ascertain each others hunting grounds and to conceal theirs -and even-their successesor:disasters. Last year Fitzpatriekls company in their 2 year trapping sent down about 150 packs, 6o skins p r

[ • V V

c •V;; V V V about V range are arid and steal They who the with villages heads best Foot make Platte, The mounted,

i6oo Crows in again and 44 per packs. V several packs, generally are depending mountains have CrowsT The pack; six are the buffalo and Auricenis, their the As about arid of and the termed about traps. to Bannocks This met but arm the Shoshones. the and fails kill Pamees. and same A. horses hunting the bands the with they Arkansas country war Arepehoes. year M. more upon without V 1500 whenever sustained “Diegere of party Indians, Salt they C. with amounting in V in horsèavèture are range Lewis A. friendly, their strong grounds arid They lages Lake. almost The in reside lost H. horses, generally and the Fitzpatricks a do the upon River. that great C. numerous Shoshones, The are good Canadian. in 17 Crows, PitieW to in and every world. on tho three the Crows extremely the men about without the about loss opportunity the Fitzpatricks dispersed There, dangerous to Yellowstone the by Paiznees mountain is. dogs Black have and villages, Missouri in 400 descend a The 1200 desertion appear Sioux, Worthy arms poor, horses to are war during warris Arepehoes good Hills. warriors, reside take by to running offers. but very like to unwarlike into and Shians, appear of twos horses arid fight taken be taking the have the the Pity. numerous, wage and 2500 on mostly met the headwaters and range summer mountain from stone with they the by to each Their and are arid alone. plains war Sioux, each threes race, have the They lower afoot everybody upon well the I Auricenis, are about point upon months villages fight believe Auricenis; 2 each will sheep. in some well Black of 400 horses They into the mounted. Platte live the

3]. arrow, the also Shians, about few the

Ii [

Ii

-, [

L. rL

- ( - of these the waters the joined grounds a which may Nez year Black bidden provisions. religious Church, brave have Missouri. River, detached their the catching war their Gros Black be Perce The mountains. without great with never they The Foot. of the in said falls, by upon the country Ventres avoiding Cottonais, Foot the defence, from Flatheads, and and them. people Flatheads. the live, plain, killed The to (Ravine the Descending religious Missouri Poligamy unwarlike, the drying Indians, Black the abound Flatheads in They of northern together I changing I large and but a lower excellent the do ever 200 Amere), white Foot 100 are salmon, hunt some not so and The never meetings. Prairies the warriors, bands the saw, warriors weil Columbia, defend usual branches have with are believe their its numerous man. Indians the Blood, and Columbia go and skins observing said of mounted northern been roots. buffalo among to towards themselves are camp They the in having with They that the war, to of range have and herds driven the those waters Pend all zi and the be abundantly Savicies, which about defend amunition. three branches are every the from fall Sunday the the upon Indians, of the Columbia Orisiles. most from from the three the Thdians only other 150 they 2 move night festival Nez the themselves to troublesome tho most their the great the are Nez supplied Perce heads Indians forks 3,000 dry up is and day They pass in Black Piedgan, honest upon in Perce Here that strictly original bands and distress of have commenced are one of of head, are in from the here, the Foot, return river horses by warriors the Salmon the in term and extremely now of extremely richness and Roman head upon the for the whole for who to to c - -

winteD

St.

other

etc. their

4 great loaned j,

have

caught med

they going

the Foot When Flatheads, from leave kill horses build

the numerous.

with some

to

Louis

free Arepehoes,

spring

5$

horses

have but

The

the

and the

place lands

their

rendezvous

In object

if

to

their

stone

together,

horses

at

and

each

the

they

men, the

whites

bushes, individuals

steal. are grass

4$

their —

true

to

gradually in families

for

and

When

families

forts,

winter

paying of

per next,

expected

have and

men

kill the

the

is

their

compáñiés

traps

leader,

parties

are

and septhätin

lb.

The in

the

traps

who

found

Shoshone

no

remäinwitWit

Shians,

their then

the

for

unsafe

the

all

trade

purchasing

must

and retreat

only

snow

summer

hórsé

of

join

each

parts

their

and

or

plains

of

dispatch

sufficient, afoot

their

move

nearest

iä

be

begins

security

all

with

trader, the or

size

country-,

company

inthe

are

rendezvous.

to

ariddo

careful with

of

supplies

run

to

and

their

own,

Pawnees,

‘tis

catch

to all

are any

the

the

tribes, their to

in away

packing their

spring

sell

his

against

generally

not

they their

unmolested, most tribe bands

fall, some

same

credits

the

of

plains

these

and

hired

from

most

wish

their

the the

spoils

agree

following

certain and towards

When

and

company

supplies

except

bands

of dogs,

loss

these

men

other Bannocks,

Crows.

active in

with

to

men,

as about

having

again

beaver

the

to

all to

hire,

on of

locate

the from save

the destruction.

the

Indians

whiskey, meet

sell

also companies

their

supplies

their

traps.

from manner;

directions men

the

meeting

As

snow

a

unskinned

by Nez Nez

3

they

the

plan

what

all

to

to

themselves to

same

and

that

the

own

way

melts

Perce Perce is —

the

Shoshones,

400 steal

plan

tobacco,

the are

if

of

from at

And

and is to Black country’.

size

to

corn.

they whites,

to

its

some

then at

furs

ter and

fight and

in 42

the

the 43 oth. Rendezvous are certainly the scene of the most extreme do.. C bauchery and dissipation. Prices. — at the mo.

Furs range from.. —.. — — — — — —.. — - -$3 to 5 per lb. Skintrappingdo—...... ——....a...... $4to5perlb. Elankets, colored—..——...... ————...l8to20ea.

Tobacco — — — — — — — — — — — — — ..2 to 3 per lb.

Alcohol.. - — — — — - — — — — — 32 per gallon

Coffee — — — — — — — — — — 2 — do

Flour — — — a — — — a a — a — .1 — do Shotgunspramecost4$aa__aaaaaa_a Rifles0..ea. “ “ Horses 20 to 5$--.. — — — —120to 250$ea. The customary prices as a year’s wages from 250 to 1400$. As to the prices and regulations of the Hudson Bay I know but little, but4 this suimner, fail and spring I believe I shall be able to explain all their regulations of trade, etc. On the 30th otAprillieft Independence with 121 men and 20 wagons. On the 12 May crossed the Kansas, kept up the left bank, moved up the Republican. I marched upon an elevated plain, then struck it a little west and in one day fell on the Platte the 2nd of June. Here I found the river 3/4 mile wide. The banks

2 to 3 feet high, river about 4 feet deep but full of quicksand.

- - The plains upon the banks—öfthe Platte are from 3 to 5 miles wide arid I marched to the forks 130 miles without a brook or creek. At the forks I first found buffalo 45 days from the settlements. Having miles I crossed this fork. The

river below I measured 2. 3/4 mile wide in two places, general width C 1 1/4 mile. Out the tongue of land and fell upon the north fork. (‘N There the river plain is small, bluffs of immense size jutting into the river Finally reached the main branches of the North Fork, crossed the south Laramies Fork, then began one of the most broken

countries I ever beheld, frequently letting my wagons down the bluffs with long ro’pes, 80 men to each wagon. At last we came to the main forks of the North Forks, having cut the tongue of land

to the north and in two days came to Sweet Water, which we ascended on the right bank of Wind River Mountains. Having turned the moun

tains we struck a large sand plain upon which we slept without grass or water, having traveiled from sun..rise till nine o’clock at night. Next morning started again at day light arid at twelve o’clock had the satisfaction to fail upon the water of the Colorado of the West. Having ascended the river on the right bank, forty miles, we built a picket-work. Fell in with the Gros ‘(entres of the Prairies, Black Foot, about 900 warriors, had no difficulty with them. Here we remained to recruit our horses, then went a north west course and on the 10th November fell upon Salmon River where I again built two log cabins and waited for w men. One of

my-parties, 21 men, among the Crows entirely lost. Another of my

parties of 2]. men by the Shöshones lost 7 horses and 4 men, and

another of my parties on the route through Torre Prairie of 28 men lost all their horses, but fighting from 8 A.M till sun set recovered all but one, taken by the Black Foot and four badly

wounded. On the 28 November some of my parties had returned. I then proceeded to the Flat Heads and Nez Perces where I intended to wait the arrival of the remainder of my parties. At last on the 25 December I started with twelve men in search, crossed the great

[ L

L

r [ r

Li H [!

r

buffalo

23rd

and

friendly

plains

Foot

by

the

them,

parties.

mountain

horses

and

which

Then

I

to

and

and

left

on

increased

loaded

send

from

Reached

Shoshone

found

the

pretend

the

the

Flatheads

reached

La

fighting

Here

Flatheads,

on

continued

at

much

for

Shoshone

with

time

Black

carcasses

and

Payette

Lower

the

19th

with

Indians

impassable

the

to

Lewis

I

that

Having

plains

to

another

mountains

to

my

I

remained 18

the

the

Foot, Flathead

of

snow

suceaded

at

Columbia.

and

my

war,

small

proceeded

party

party.

River

Rivers.

to

toward

February

north

valley

by

that

.and

found

surprise

in

Nez

and

the

who

of

while

presents

and

the

party

with

to

would

these

on

time

River.

my

Perce

that

1st

west

in

the

that

their

Finding

of

remained

join

the

deep

At

On

with

with

parties

passing,

I

these

at

July.

the

quite

of

Comanche

my

not

only

last

pushed

fail

the

having

spring

18

to

me

the

path

snct,

23

23

There

18

animals

Colorado.

that

February.

do.

march

6

people

immediately, I

—

skinned

at

men.

near,

voyagers

men

in

Pond

Here

April

I

found

Rosy,

across

leaving

been

consolidated

lost

its

Prairies

I

the

nt

took

I

to

upon

again

were

Onieilos

I

then

made

I

till,

base

came

driven join

Shoshone

waited

only

one

that

Meade,

that

therefore

it

Here

the

and

Here

4

the

weak,

tried

me

the

reached

and

animal,

horses

till

to

laying

Mr.

which

the

I living

plains,

14

I

Black

fear

from

and

I

4

actually

Comanche,

the

5th

for

on

found

Vailey.

Indians,

I

mountains

(Cone)

found

days

to

the

induced

they

determined

the

the

mountain

and

on

to

on

July.

that

the

avoid

upon frozen

Foot

27

and

for

so

the

the

cross

one

29th

Cottonais,

two

did,

country

May

who

purpose.

fish,

many

Borsey

towns

on

Nez

I

my

the

route

these

111.

The

were

to

of

mules.

started

found

which

at

the

the

I

having

March,

Perces

to

my

death.

had

Black 45 46

feared to approach the rendezvous, and at night sent two men to examine it. Had the satisfaction to hear all was well. I then continued and next day met ail the whites in the

country, and on the 2.5 started with Mr. (Cerie) to excort him to the Big Horn, which I expect will take me till the 10 August. I will then proceed to the North West towards the mouth of the Columbia. The country upon the Lower Republican is roiling, becoming a high level plain as you ascend, the country gradually rising to the west. The Platte runs through one of the most beautiful and level plains in the North. Upon the North Fork the country becomes much broken, from Laramies Fork to Sweet Water is most terribly broken, and difficult to pass. This country is termed the Black Hills. Upon Sweet Water high hills are constantly in view but easily passed traveling generally on the bank of the river sand. The Sweet Water heads into the Wind River Mountain, said to be the highest in the country, about 2500 feet elevation above the plains. and constantly covered with snow. I have not measured these mountains, ttjS mere supposition. In this same bed of mountains rises the yellowstone, the Columbia, the Colorado and the Northern Platte. They are extensive and extremely difficult to be gone through, and are always turned. The general course I traveled to head Sweet Water was about West North

West, and estimated by me at 1050 by the wordings of the route. From the forks of Horse Creek of the Colorado to the heads of the Salmon River the route lays generally through a country easily

passed, with the exception of two mountains which mu.st be gone over. One is low, the other imist be passed up the river, and upon a crevice of the mountain from which horses fall from every party, descent — C

[

I

r [ [

-, [

r

L

/

C •

-

horses

Black

however

Platte,

slowly. The

without

up

and

where

rock

ies

saw

mica

lonally

and

the

grass; a

Ventres

the

run

However,

Lake,

Here

extreme

perpdioular

with

little

rivers

lava

of

slate,

its

Cottonais

Hills and

south

through

slate, The

began

in

again

we

having

greasy

then

a

large

to

Upon

I

difficulty

every

the

trap.

clay

north

Black

drop

west

find

would

this

to

the

we

a

led,

an

again

Horn

begins

i2nter

little

thecanyons

the

the

crevices

have

prevailed,

quartz

to

of

west

plain, country,

lies

immense

much

the

to

Hills

270

To

iron

ob3rve

banks

block

cook

water

east

from

a

the

the

yellow

a

feet

of

is

and

immense

east

is

great

and

ore. bed

are

in

with

passage.

of

about:15

a

region

north

known,

sweet the

we

and

remarkable

or

become

immense

high,

rough

one

which-yielded

are

or

salmon

of

the the

or

distance

find

the

buffalo

In

southern

linerock

plains

coluimiar

mountains

of

the

a

cotton

cottonwood

mountains

primitive

of

that

one

cirse

broken

smallest

extremely

little

no

which

feet

slate.

beds

limerock

great

plain

wood

for

of

every

to

dung,

wood

bank

without

wide

blocks

of to

country

sand,

sixty

east

lying

the

its

upon

Shoshone

to

increase

bunch

class

As

above

only

red

Salmon

upon

river

fat.

to

dried

and

filling

the

south,

great

lays

we

without

by

the

no

of

North

sand

organic

I

of

of

depth

and

which

ascended,

this,

North

forty

limestone,

Above even person

weeds,

found

N.

plains;

immense

heads

mineral,

their

quantity

grass

about

rock.

west

every

We

and

water,

unmeasured,

all

we

and

bulks.

Fork

miles

this

small

of

knows

South

occasionaly,

to

size

of

the

feed

350

to

plains;

mountain,

the

the

through

Some

Sweet

of

granite,

be

north

of

Gros

and

without

the

is

big

quantit

es.

but

where.

creeks

sand from

our

the Occas—

wood

fotnd.

plains

filled

upon

Water,

south

Salt.

is

to the r the western waters the bitter cotton wood prevails. Upon the mountains the pines and cedars are abundant.

The thermometer with me ranged at sunrise through the summer r at about 47°, at 2 p.m. 72°. Once I saw it as high as 91°. During the winter months in the values where we wintered, it stood gen.. eraily about at 12 P. in. 26°. I left it and traveled across the E plains where the cold was much more severe. I find that at 25° my feelings were much as they would be in the states at 13°, but the

— heat of 72° as offensive as that of the states of 100°.

L South of the Platte and other rivers from the east are in— [ tensely unfit for cultivation. These of the west are much the - same tiil we reach the Borsey, a branch of Lewis’ River. The

soils here are excellent but not extensive • The buffalo range from north and south, beginning about the forks of the Platte, and extending to the line running from about the Forks of Salmon River to the east of the Big Salt or Eutaw Lake, then running so as to

strike a little north of Taos (now in N. Mexico). West and south [ of this line not a buffalo can be seen; elk, deer, sheep and bear can there be had for a small party to subsist excepting some large [ sand plains where nothing can be found. The Big Salt Lake I have nerer seen, but am told it has never been traveled around. Five L trappers once attempted to coast it and were near dying from hunger and thirst. [ This much, General,1 have been able to collect in compliance with ny promises, and I hope wiil be satisfactory when you consider L - how extensive this country is. An individual in the states goes his 40 to 50 miles ëasilybuthere, where we have to feed our hormes c on grass and being closely tied up every night, requires tiine to [ I] E [ [

L [ [ L r - - - 1

To. my any them, if

however,

Cottonais

unencumbered. about horse. are their villages all 144 enemies; each cord camp

omitted feed

Major

you

return

other

turned

day, hands

Alexander

in lodge attached morning,

is

either

8

lodges,

General

shall

the miles

then to

The

General

longer

besides

at

u•S•

about commands

country

high, The

a

out state

whole,

course

8

to have

formed small

long.

mode

to noon poles A.?!.

my Mac

in

at At

the join

journies.

stock

the planting that

Chief

any

and

10

clear

Comb. in

men, brush of raise

and of

last

extending and

any

The horses

or

this round

instructions a

built, the traveling

night,

women

few baggage. 11 day

party whites

of

pen

camp,

horses

an

country, A.!!.

by

I June light, days fore

18

to and

have

takes

along

and

To that the

the

travel here,

the inch

secure

1

here upon

I

foot.

With

be,

That

children

the

lower

making for shafl

shall chief

might

or

the our chief

stake

which General,

are

is

me,

Honor, to imach

every their lets

traveling

B.L.E. river

Captain,

In

meet

this, leads

be

Columbia

Most

return be

pitches their generally

follow,

shall the into

the

the on

in

horses

sent, consideration

Mr.

or

my

upon Bonneville, morning the

the

(Obedient

men

the Indians

camps

be to

7

creek,

M.S,

to very

route his

Iniy. to the Indians

same

ride about the a

from

glad

ground

the

lodge. fast

and comply

women

slow. the

(Cerie)

will

way,

making

States,

to

to totally

Servent) south. their

14

journies

walking

with

in the horses

receive

with with

t

making,

gallop

The I

and

for

a

Ci Nez

plains with

of

fense

buffalo.

Montana

necessary foot,

total.

nine Bonneville

country 150

of Bonneville to

trappers the Lower Eastern encountered Nez

ington in that

the

the

1834,

Perce

contrast

warriors.

Perce.

Stiblettes

the

hundred

tribe

Students

against

sometimes

Salmon,

Upper

and

tribe

and

or The

across

Idaho.

Bannocks,

about

and

and

The

to

in

in

estimates

reports

who

North

Upper

by

The

to

Nez

was combine

including travelers,

the

the the

Upper

Eastern

and the

of BONNEVILLE

tha

This

the

the

the

occupied

concentrating

Upper

This

Perce

closely

Eastern the

Snakes. vailey

Blackfoot,

Nez

others.

Clearwater

sometimes

mountain

the Nez main trappers

Nez

would

to forces

was

Nez

Idaho

Perce

Nez

and

Upper

Perce

old

Perce

consist

the except part

of

allied

the Perce Oregon

CROSSES

indicate

Perce

The

Bannocks

men,

Nearly

the

to for and

passes

headwaters

of

and making

Nez described

and

of

section

their apparently

Snakes,

protect

the

the

often

Green

purposes

the women with of

were

and the

hunting

Perce large

ThE

all

200

in

a

American Hudsons

did

people

common

Flatheads

Nez

who

population the WALLa1A

lose the

known

River,

Western

and

of

relatives

warriors, themselves

these to

areas of

not

were

Perce

buffalo

of

got

Flatheads

the

first

children. the consist

sight

cause either

as

exist

defense

Bay ir

on

Upper

accounts

known

in FOREST

This

Montana

found

who

the

Salmon

of

tolerably

of of

Company, Company South

with

of

on

or

between

in

from

Upper

of the

occupied

tolerant

who

Nez about the

as

the

the

and

about

it

Western

This

approximately River

them

and

Eastern

Nez the

of

the

frequently

occupied Perce. division

upper

Bannocks,

for

men,

Nez

eight

explorers, Jim

well

the

whom

1200

Lower section

Perce

in

Black.

the

In

attitude

hunting

Perce,

prior

50 Bridges,

Upper

de..

Snake

Wash....

or

the

of and also of the Shoshonie stock, were bitter enemies of both the E Upper and Lower Nez Perce. r Captain B,L.E. Bonneviile had spent one winter with the Upper Nez Perce and about the last of the year of 1833 decided to make a [ trip from his camp on the Portneuf River, (near the present day Pocateilo, Idaho) where he had established winter quarters for his men near a large camp of Bannocks, to the Hudson’s Bay Company fort [ at the mouth of the Walla Waila River. He was desirous of learning the country and observing the operating methods of the Hudson’s Bay [ Company, also, to become acquainted with the Indian tribes and scout the country for furs. r1 He therefore chose three companions for the journey, put up [ a small stock of provisions in the most portable form and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He expected companions U to return in early March. Bonneville and his three left the camp on Portneuf River on Christmas day 1833. He was obliged

Li to travel slowly for the snow was at a depth of 18 inches on the Snake River plains and somewhat crusted. His route took him along [ the southern bahk of Snake River where he usually traveled at some r distance from the river. hen he reached the lower of the great falls, which is the limit of the upstream migration for salmon in L Snake River, he enccnmtered many Indians of the Shoshonee people, r These he called the Shoshokoes or Root Diggers and as they were well supplied with salmon, purchased as much dried salmon as his party required.

We now come to one of those unexplained mistakes in the his.. torical records. It will be recalled that we have no journals by Bonneville himself. He definitely states that he kept a regular and 52 r complete journal of his travels and Washington Irving makes the statement that he had these journals when he was writing the book Captain [‘ “Adventures of zmevil1&’ which he used along with many

- personal interviews with Bonneville. However, it is very clear to one who follows the tory as recorded by Irving that a mistake was made in the sequence of the story at this point. The book says

[ that. “On the 12th day of January (1834) Captain Bonneville rea— [ chad Powder ?iver; much the largest stream he had seen since leaving the Portne-uf. He struck it about three miles above its entrance [ into Snake River. Here he found hinseif above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river, and in an open and level country.” Lr He describes the Indians as Root Diggers, a branch of the Shoshonees [ who subsist on roots and salmon, as ‘very poor and without horses as contrasted with the Bannocks of the upper Snake River who had horses and hunt the buffalo. “On the following day, as Captain - Bonneville approached the mouth of Powder River, he discovered L at least a hundrea families of these Diggers, as they are fmiiarily [ called, assembled in one place.” — “The country hereabouts, was generally leve], and sandy; producing very little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The plains were L diver sified by isolated hills, all cut off as it were, about the same L height, so as to have tabular summits.” It will be readily apparent from the above description that the L present day Powder River could not have been the area described. Also, one familiar with the geography of Southern Idaho will recog L nize the description as applying in great detail with the area at / and near the mouth of the Owyhee River. This is further implied

• by the description of the native Indians, as those who inhabited [ [ [j r -

I_i [ [ r

[ r

L -

c Valley with. during Ronde to proceed the Indians or Portneuf Diggers. There that route familiar not latter natives flows had Powder party may the Bonneville the follow no Baker be intended be Northern area they This Valley As snow also that a ar into indicate impeded advised down River. that probably time that they was with. up Valley. near It applied Gun along seems the Union, the thought through through the Irving 18 will of the to proceeded Paiute Creek the party by them Snake that inches However, deep proceed SnakeRiverto knew the to route be this the They, mouth Thiild made the be does to Antelope Lower branch it Snake remembered was snows, River that snow.” deep name good keep in would down name up the therefore, of following not it that Powder the River the from of the and. logic to would which along mistake. Snake of appear Valley, have have the snow what direction banks the the Owyhee that crusted. the at Valley in was seem the River been Shoshonee and been mouth would no Owyhee the we west; in the the of striking what Snake Travel during doubt now their from any the mouth Gun the it and snow advise was of be While but was know other the is Owyhee all River, most Creek, Powder peoples, cross advised deep intended impracticable. time the of on were the said Powder party there given as logic Burnt the account winter, snowfree at Grands to instead schedules Burnt where assured that, a River, the Durkee plains had stream River the was by destinations as It River, party the River. to that they to may were Ronde They Grande little of thence by passage or and at the which of contend Root The the be these would the I it of to the the in am that river

disappointment

on them

Burnt This to of route which

Snake

Indians snow to from not been Bonneville’s

people him of them yet cription none

Indians

Snake

the travel

be

the

Snakes

heard.

they

to Two

indicates

there which

At

a

is of

Somewhere

of

River

River.

across

they here

passage

belonged Sheep small

cross

in

any

very who

them

River ice,

days

were

of

upon

to this

their

found but

for

to

rate,

them

One

spoke

the

party

party meager.

eaters

could

only

after

and

They

attempt

able

that

at

Powder through

that the

they

these

on

valley,

cannot of

Blue to language

is

the

recross

the

a

Powder

a

determined ice

were

be of to them

a

leaving

they

be were

very

from

language

narrow

people

mouth

change River

Mountains. the

party

Umatiilas.

make They

induced

Hells

when

free

now

where

familiar. understood

were

meager, all

across

River

the

crossing, differed

be may inquiries

ribbon

of

the the the

of

continued

spoke

of

Canyon,

conversant

totally

river

to fully

they

determined to

Powder

snow.

have

the

weather

Grande Pwie

ice banks

the

follow

act

Evidently

a

They

It

of

spent only

One party the

at

on aware

and.

dialect been

Snake

LJct

but

is as different as

River ice

should

Apparently

on

key

will.

Rónde the

might may

Nez

had

down with they

almost to slightly.

guides.

on

to some

a

for encountered

remained

of

River,

Snake

detachment

have

their

Perce

but nearly

their

they

the

of

Valley

prove

the the

decided

the logically

the

time

Shoshonee

from sure

found

Grande

been

River

extreme

they found

Snake

Nez

route. or description To language

way

along

cleared

impassable. looking

they

what

that any

they

to

Perce

a

a

to

down

found

for

had

River,

too Ronde

expect detachment

camp

return

they

the

their were

difficulty

with

However,

they tribe

could

the and

the

much

enabled from

for

tongue

no

of

shore

Valley—.’r

had

of Se

back and were

which

des.. through

Cayuse

great to a have

these

I and in places there still remained enough snow and ice to form a L sort of bridge across the stream. [ Bonneville lead his men on down the Snake River, keeping as close to the stream as possible but being forced occasionally- to climb to considerable heights to pass around bluffs and precipices, r Two of their horses fell into the river at one place. They res cued one, but the other was swept away by the rapid current. They [ finally came to a place where the bed of river was narrowed to a mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all farther [ progress. They then attempted to scale the mountain to the west but failed and had to return to their camp of the pre ions night. L They then went back up river about four miles to a more favorable place and determined to scale the mountain and seek a passage into [ the valley which they expected must lie on the other side. It they could not affect a crossing they would return to the Snake River, [] kill their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of the [I hides and try to run the river; an undertaking which they recog.. nized to be extremely hazardous. L The party eventually crossed the snow bound ridge between the

F’ Snake River and the Imnaha after terrible hardships. Enroute they L killed and ate one of their mules and finally arrived on the Imnaha, [ weak, exhausted and in a pitiful condition. They arrived on the Imnaha on February 16, 1834 fifty three days after leaving the L Portneuf and 20 days after leaving the mouth of Powder River. The spring like weather on the Imna.ba and the presence of 1’ green grass begining to spring up there, revived their spirits. They observed Indian signs and on the second day traveling down the Imnaha came to a camp of Nez Perce where they were hospitably

reasonable.

statement

elk

a

given.

ducted

Cottonwood

Lightning

Imnaha

probably

about

commonly

them

who

royally

River

Perce

his

of

Upper

stant as

out

considerable

having

about

received

meat

the

a

accompanied

three

It

too

as

After

the

doctor

them

in

and

is

interchange

Here

Nez

twelve

trhe.

and

is

far

learned

entertained

at

in

known

that

the

or

situated..

mouth

Creek.

and

on

companions

deducted

Perce

by

The the resting

regard

choice

it

as

Cow

had

vicinity

the

these

village

families.

the

cared

as

is

Asotin

mouth

Lower

of

them

the

Creek

preceeded

of

second

the

said

About

bench

to Freezeout

of

pieces

and

by

people

the

language

by

for.

The

for

proceeded

Nez

visits

of

the

to

great

of

where

of

this

that

the

recruiting

Salmon

the

trail

day

next

Big

the

the

Nez

Bonneville

the

Perce

buffalo

of

This

him.

had

chief,

writer

they

chief.

mouth

Yo—imis—ro-y-e...cut

encountered

Sheep

and

Creek

while

buffalo.

village

next

Perce,

mouth

village

to

heard

River

village

down

frequently

messages

This

feasted

Joseph

meat.

several

an

of

their

and

Creek

that

residing

of

the

could

the

of

of

of

Joseph

old

was

was

the

that

Many

of

him

Bonneville

Eastern

name

O.push—y—e..cut

another

Creek

where Ininaha

strength,

However,

on

man

probably

between

accounted

easily

days, Nez

Imnaba.

made

the

with

and

writers

fish

Creek

named

of

Perce

at

joined

the

toward

first that

trips

Idaho.

i.those

in

village

their

converse

and

the

the

this

they

Bonneville

at

present

struck

Yo-mus—ro—y-e—cut,

fact

Here

for

question

consisted

his

roots,

mouth

them

the

two

village

to

chief

the

who

is

cousins,

stopped

by

He

escorting

they

of

reputation

the

mouth

branches

with

the

entirely

Snake

and

town

the

was

found

Nez

of

deer

is

buifalo

that

were

and

was

Imnaha

of

con..

con..

them,

not

at

of

of

the

and 56 cV t r country, both across the Lola Pass into Western Montana and south east to their cousins the Upper Nez Perce or as they called them [ “their buffalo cousins.” Buffalo hides and dried buffalo meat was the main object of these trips. [V If any one village could be considered the headquarters of the Lower Nez Perce, t would undoubtedly be the one at Asotin, where [ at this time, “the great chief”, O-push—e—cut made his h’me. This r village was the home of the original Looking Glass and the birth place of the second Looking Glass. Both these men were rated as [ very important war chiefs, if not the principle war chiefs of their respective times.

LV Bonneville and his party continued on via Clarkston and the [ Nez Perce Trail to Fort Walla Waila where he visited for a time with the Hudsont a Bay Company agent Mr. Pambrune. He was treated [ hospitably, but could not purchase the supplies he needed as the Hudson’s Bay Company took a dim view of facilitating or encouraging the visits of other traders among the Indians in the territory that [ they considered theirs. Mr. Pambrune invited Bonneville to accompany Mr. Payette, a brigade leader for the Company, on his return trip; but Bonneville angered at the refusal to sell him supplies, decided L to return the same way he had come thcii it was more difficult. On March 6, 1834 Bonneville and his three companions left Fort r Waila Walla and retraced their route through Asotin, up the Snake River to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River, which the Nez Perce called the Way.lee-way, to Joseph 9Creek around to the Imnaha and up the Imnaha. On the Imnaha they selected a better route and - continued up to the mouth of Dry Creek and crossed over the mountains

V in this vicinity to the Snake River. Nez Perce guides assisted him 58 r in the crossing which was difficult because of deep snow, but by making a coiple of light sleds or toboggans and dragging them

[‘ across the pass through the snow, wet by a drizzling rain, and which afterward freezing made a path sufficiently hard to support L their horses. They succeeded, thus, in the course of three days [ they were across the mountains and near the Snake River where the green grass was 8 inches high. Their guides then returned home

and Bonneville continued his journey, reaching the Portneuf on Hay. two months and six days from Fort Walla Walla. C The accounts of Bonneville’s travels and the accounts of r Wilson Price Hunts earlier trip with Donald McKinzie’s terrible hardships along the Idaho side of Hells Canyon, were published by [ Washington Irving and were widely read. These accounts no doubt had a great influence in causing later travelers to avoid the Wallowa [ and Salmon River countries, with the result that this entire area was to remain almost unexplored and unknown for many years there... L after.

C

C

C

C

- c_. heads motive. Catholic of have

medicine

Wyeth

the gation in to the

a

the for

told of white man directions

chers secure River of

mission

the

the

avoid

Lewis Christain

Blackfoot

Methodists help

summer

accompanied

ascribed

Many

A

them

In

and

overland

man#s to rendezvous

doctrines

Willamette

to

a

sensational

1831

slant,

which

Both

the

from be Bible,

aixi

Nez writers

St.

among

is

of

how

civilization.

sent

Flathead

unrecorded.

a

Clark 4dvocate

are Perce the

Louis

in 1334.

the

they

to

delegntion sent to

through

which

the

the

and

that

to to

most very

Valley.

have

the northwest

conduct

article

fe.me,

had

believed

as

Flathead

American

Jason their

St.

percepts

Wyeth

area

Hudson’s

ccnmtry cranatizing they

probably

devout

a belittled

the become

THE

Loud

mere

and

Lee

poople themselves.”

It of

and was This and While

could

teachings

wilderness.

MISSIONARIES

a

the

Fur Indians. three through

is

of

Christain because

superstitious

and

to

acquainted

MtIaughlin

Bay published

suggested

wrong.

they

fairly

white

Christianity,

the

not

there and observe

Coripany

his

this

Company’

Nez

motives

did.

have

him,

for,

of

of nephew,

man

heroic They

they Perce

certain

religious

It

Just

the

they the

what The

in

caravan

by

advised

made read

“a

to

is

a

search

accompanied the

called

Iroquois

this

repeated

tort what book men of

results

true

possess.

establish Daniel treck,

they

with

a anyway. that

the

March

and from

request

time faith William

the

at

containing

that

for

could on

a

Indians

they

Vancouver were

Lee,

and one

trappers.

William raids missionaries strong

the

1833

with

more

the

as

Others themselves Nathaniel

did Flathead the for of

to

iimnediate; Green Clark

the

issue

many

Flat..

powerful dele

of the

not

tea..

found

cry

Clark,

in

59 60 many of whom had settled among them. The Iroquoi evangelist Ignace, H- r had exerted a marked influence and several of the Hudson?a Bay

Company agents had taught them their religious views. The Flat.. heads and Nez Perce were very definitely, although somewhat at [ variance with the calendar, observing Sunday as a day of rest and

— prayer. Their morals were quite high, but they understood very little of the Ghristain doctrines, not..withstanding the fact that they had adopted some of the more visible aspects of the religion. [ One fundamental fact, often overlooked, is that these people, [ the Sahaptain Group and some of the neighboring tribes had a very ethical religion of their own. Their moral characters were fully II as well developed and their ethics as high as that of the inhabitants r of the eastern states and much above that of the average mountain L man and other advance contingents of the white man’s civilization. Many of the chiefs and wise men of the tribes recognized that their people needed an education in order to compete on an even footing with the whites. •They desired people and U this for their their children, just as today many of the intelligent people in L the backward lands of Asia and Africa, desire an education for

• their chil1ren: above all other things. This then was the motive that impelled the delegation to make the treck to St. Louis, to get teachers for their people. In 1835 Marcus 1hitman-and Samuel Parker were sent to the Oregon Country by the Presbyterian and Congregational church’s American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, to look over the land and determine the feasibility of establishing a mission or

- missions among the Nez Perce and Flatheads. They traveled with the C American r Company’s supply train to the rendezvous on Green River. Nez Perce and flatheads were there to meet them and they learned H 61 that Jason Lee had passed on to the Willamette Valley. h order to 1 save tlme, at least two years, it was decided that Parker would go on with Nez Per ce guides to look over the country and meet Whitman at the next years rendezvous and lead hia and his party to whatever [ site he had selected. Samuel Parker was 6 years old and far from being fitted L either physically or by training for the rugged frontier life, [ nevertheless he made the trip with his Nez Perce guides and a French Canadian trapper with a Nez Perce wife, to act as interpreters. [ They traversed past the Tetons, Pierre’s Hole, Salmon River, to the r Clearwater and on to Fort Waila Walla. Then on down the Columbia L to spend the winter with McLaughlin at Fort Vancouver. Next [ spring Parker returned up the Columbia and explored the country with Indian guides to Spokane House, Fort Colvil].e and Fort [ Okanogan and returned to Fort Waila Waila. He had intended going r with a party of Nez Perce to the rendezvous, expecting they would L go via the Blue Mts. on the direct trail but when he learned that this party was going through central Idaho to hunt buffalo enroute, [ he decided he was not physicafly able to make this rugged trip and [ sent letters to Whitman by Nez Perce and also by Torn McKay. He then returned to Fort Vancouver to take ship to the Sandwich Islands L and then by another to New York. r Meanwhile, Marcus Whitman had returned to New York state, L secured authority and necessary financing to establish a mission.

He also acquired a wife, Narcissa Prentiss, who had previously L applied for consideration to be a missionary to the Nez Perce.

L Henry Harmon Spalding and his wife Eliza were assigned to the project as Missionaries but subordinate to Whitman who was designated as L [ L b [ C [ r L [ [ L F r - -

•

-

William leader. dollars horses Missouri

after

The the east near

with their they wagons the Thomas four wagon

following and vous famous for letters known Chiefs,

third outfitting

plains,

a others. with

There Independence, the

overtook hundred

The

in

the

control

went

much and among

each worth Fitzpatrick,.

frontiersmen Gray

the Tackensuatis youths from

American

Whitman

livestock, him Nez

the two ian

were

beyond

needed

pulled on

vailey

as the

animals

of They

Samnel from Perce

prevented the

wagons.

example

point

May

the as

ten

trace outfitted whites

party

Fur caravan,

were this helpers

rest the

Missouri

by 26.

missions of

they

people

of two Parker.

for

strong

and

Company

six

the of goods,

Green

left point. The met the until as

the

This

of

the found

the

Ish-hol..,ho1—hoats—hoats,

imiles, the

and Green the

in

on

American whom by day,

party

was

their lay

River

Oregon

supply

camp fur

The July

which the

supply party

there Lawyer. a

at

On

led

were assistant. River. delegation Jim

and

company

party Whitman the

from

heavy equipnent,

July rendezvous

14.

Country

their with caravan by

were Board

Bridger,

caravan,

a

boys

town

starting

that great

6,

remained The

In

wagon

Here

over

three caravan.

party.

safety

for they that

the of

Nez of and

of Whitman vetrari

many medicine,

they

the Joe Liberty

but

three

Foreign at

Nez meantime

70

Whitman reached Nez

which

Perce

out

at

depended

Fort

Meek, previous

Delays by

men, pack

met

the Perce

mountain

Perce

Only

the

in thousand

hired

forced

was which

brought

Missions

Laramie,

many

latter

company

mules, seven cattle,

had the

Kit

a rendezvous

the

led

beyond

to

located party

in

tWo

rear.

taken rendez was of

Carson

marches

man, look

light by

62 crossing

better them

nearly

the

mules,

sent

of [ L r L [ [

[ L [ [

r I -

•

(

nent

lay

accompany which

to

friend

company

tarry broken

Portneuf Nez as Wyeth Bay The which formation, had Nez east

the MeLeod, Country. the Hudsonts

Company

the

Fort

in

Whitman

Perce

Company Whitman

Perce headwaters come

was

On

having

It

long included

had

the

whites the

of

and

men

August Hall,

was

brigade. delivered

agreeable

River

to

Bay

the

the

and

In

accompanying

Nez

just

winter

at

the

including

and

brigade

party

the failed

decided party

visits

Company

main

as

Spaldings

Fort

although

Hudsohs

Perce

John near

3, two

that

of

Chief

rendezvous

Chief

supply

they

moved

to the

Parker a

tG

body

Hall

extra

in

McLeod

present with

would and to

spring second

men advise return

the

Takensuatis,

his Missouri

Rotten

arrived

Bay it them

go

of and

but

a

on

of

wheels

Wyeth,

advised

camped

entire

arrived with

return commercial

short

the

and

with

men

July letter

sold

meat.

would

day

set as to

to

Belly.

Nez

Tom

at visit helped

the the River far

Whitman

lashed Pocotello, out McLeod’s 18 to distance nearby.

Nez

home,

against

not

Fort

there

from

Perce McKay

It

or

Hudson’s

the as

started Columbia

again

Perce

McLaughlin

for enterprises

leave This is as

take Fort

Hall hunting

on Reverend Hudson’s

received as

presumed

with

to he

brigade. their

to The the

with

top

party

chief

Idaho. the Hail,

a for

was the

the

with

in

Bay the

brigade northern

cart

a

of

winters

a the buffalo

Fort light

buffalo

missionaries

familiarly

ama)]. at Bay

Samuel Company camp

and had

much

which the much the

in

that

with

valley

They He

Fort

Hall.

the

Company.

that become

wagon loado

Hudson’s leader,

of

party was

route

valuable

smaller

this

meat.

Nathaniel

enroute one Parker

country

Vancouver. brigade, did the

Oregon

Rotten

enroute of

knom The

as axel

arrange—

a

of not by

Hudson’

to

the

John

warm

Wyeth

Bay party,

advising

far

on 63

in..

to

tree

the

a

(.

which

through

planned

anxious

taking

the

and

the

Fort

eeded

they

on

Fort

the

crossing,

they

short the

first

historic

hands,

meat

the

possible

Belly

August

party

across

The

Snake

were

wheels

The

Vancouver.

Snake

crossed

Boise,

Nez

with

crossed

three

At

for

to

way

to

to

fresh

Spaldings

stayed

stayed

party

Salmon

separated,

getting

to

Fort

Perce.

spend

get

19.

fame

the

Whitman

Rotten

be

Mr.

down

and

and

pack

near

Farewell

the

salmon.

to

done

his

hill

Vancouver.

with

continued

McLeod

many

They

as

at

a

but

stream

Falls

the

Tom

Snake

horses

the

makeshift

Belly’s

tired with

The

load

the

Fort

had

to

to

the

a

Digger

remained

Marcus

McKay north

Snake,

Bend,

rest

who encourage

day

This

near

founder

Baker

to

the

at

again

of

Hall

would

Whitman

and

along

people.

leave

was

a

at

furs

heavily

of

bank

remained

was

Indians

present

and

small

then

place

to

going

on

Valley.

Fort

near

for

the

come

taking

of

the

the

through

become

the

Narcissa

the

them

of party

proceeded

three

Ogden,

box

Nez

later

Waila

the

ahead

Miles

along

the

laden

sandy

were

upper

Hagerman,

Boise

wagon

at

to

the

to

Before Perce

to

mouth

a

Snake

Fort

to

days,

found

to

Walla

there

Utah.

with

Whitman

trapper

Goodyear,

form

at

make

plains

pack

limit

company

River.

box

Fort

up

be

t’iould

a

Boise.

of

reaching

but

Idaho

Mr.

then

a

and

Burnt their

slower

animals

known sure

catching

and

Vancouver.

of

the

cart.

on

and

with

before

firs

McLeod

Here

bring

continued

the

then

leaving

one

that

the

Boise

they

mission

River

as

later

pace

William

the

arid

through

salmon

they

of

Then

west

Glenn’s

salmon.

continue

enough

reaching

everything

had

who

and

the

with valley

Canyon

the

the

to

He

arrived

with

on

among

bank

their

was

rim

proc..

earn

hired

Gray

cattle

to

cart,

buffalo

to

Ferry,

A

only

the

of

64 in 65 chief Rotten Belly to guide them. In the Baker Valley, Mcteod C fell behind to hunt and brought in twenty-two ducks to add. to their - short food supply. They caine into the Grande Ronde Vailey on

F August 28 at the mouth of tadd Canyon and mooned on the Grande Ronde River near where La Grande is n located and after dinner climbed into the Blue Mountains via Fox Hill, then continued through [ to Five Points Creek for their night camp on this creek about seven - miles from its junction with the Grande Ronde River.

Narcissa enjoyed the ride through the pines on this afternoon r very much as the scenery reminded her of her native hills of Steuben County, New York. Before noon the next day they “began [ to decend one of the most terrible mountains for steepness and length I have yet seen.” “It was like winding stairs in its decent [. and in some places almost perpendicular. We were a long time in decending it. The horses appeared to dread the hill as much as

L we did. They would turn in a zig zag manner all the way down. The men usually walked but I could not get permission to, neither did I desire it ”0much H “We had no sooner gained the foot of the mountain when another,

more steep and dreadful was before us,” she continued. “We did not

mount this until we had taken some refreshment and rest. Our ride this afternoon exceeded everything we have had yet and what ren dered it the more aggravating the path all the way was very stony, resembling a newly McAdamized road. Our horses feet were very

tender, all unshod, so that we could not make the progress we wished.” The party bad crossed Meacham Creek from Spring Mountain to ( Roreshoe Ridge. Having lunch .and resting at the meadow at the mouth — [

— [ [ [ - L [ [

[ L F -‘

•

(.

C

balance

3rd,

The them the

Townsend

of rapidly Fort

NcLeod The west

and had

my

us

Narcissa

of from the sun St. aptly

summit of continued

the

mind

and

this

Whitmans East

birds

heavily half.

his

was

Helens.

Columbia about

to

Walla

On

The

side

each

described

post,

sent

at

of

of

his

moving

September

tent

from hiding

gigantic

Fork.

of

party

continued,

of

of

this

&rseshoe

other north

the

noon,

Walla

native

Philadelphia,

laden back

Narcissa

were

the

John

the

pitched

the

Valley These

Caravan

McLeod.

descended hour

part

After

by

as along

the

Columbia. to

for Blue

fatigue

cone.

royally

McLeod

1,

pack

wife,

a lofty

resembling

be

of and, of Ridge

“contrasts

Spald.ings

1836

wrote

four

for

considerable reaching

Mountains

its

arrived. welcomed

horses

twilight his

The

who

a

under

them the

peaks

“two

entertained

a

in

pack

as rocky

woman

in

rays

The naturalist

beauty-

had

time

ridge

the

had

her

and

distant

the

with

which

animals

well were

a

by Paris

which was at

summit

They

of

ridden

newly

sun

been for

journal.

distance. supper

stim,,dt

Pierre

last.

into

of

the

Chief

with

enchanting

of

was

I

had.

born at

breakfast

this

mountains,

gave

who

unable

labored..-..” loaded

which MoAdamized

conical

ahead,

Cree

Squaw

the

ready.

the

“Crossed

setting

of

not

Rotten

C.

was

Pambrun

us

extensive

They

Horseshoe

tribe Fort.

Pambrun

rolling

Behind

in

been

with

to

a

Creek

making

and

and

form

they

more

many

Beily

keep rested

They

Mt. they

them

road.”

expected from then

John beaver

quite

On

where

the and

arrived

chief

mountains

valley,”

distinct Hood

places

a

up were

could

Ridge

and

September

in

Manatoba.

Kirk introduced study

a

former

separate

with

diverted

pelts. McLeod day a

and From

the

trader

on

quite

day

is see they

at

while of the

view

the Mt.

behind

the the very

66 3 67 so soon but bad had better success with the tired stock than had C been anticipated. It is not known for sure, but it is highly probable that they had taken the easier though somewhat longer route via Meacham and Cayuse. With heavily laden pack animals and cattle it is not likely that Rotten Belly would have chosen to cross the Meacham Creek Canyon.

On September 6, the Whitmans and Spaldings started down the Columbia with Pambrun in a company batteau. MoLeod had left with the fur packs on the third and Townsend had gone with him. The missionaries arrived at Fort Vancouver on September 12 to be welcomed by Dr. John McLaughlin, the Hudson Bay Company’s Chief Factor and governor of the past. ts McLaughlin recommended that the missionaries locate one mission in the Walia Waila Valley among the Cayuse and one on the Clearwater with the Nez Perce. The Reverend Samuel Parker had also made this recommendation, so it was decided that Spalding would go to the Clearwater and Whitman to the Walla WaUa. Since both the Nez Perce and Cayuse spoke almost identical languages the matter of translations would be simplified and these tribes were considered among the most inteiligent and progressive in the entire Oregon Country.

On September 21, leaving the ladies at Fort Vancouver, Whitman, Spalding, and Gray left to look over the ground and erect winter quarters. Narcissa busied herself while at Vancouver teaching the children both in studies and singing. She became fond of Dr. and Mrs. McLaughlin who enjoyed her company and they became good friends. On October 18, Spalding returned for Narcissa and Eliza while Whitman stayed at Waila Waila to complete the first house. Finally • 68

on November 3 the party started up the river in two boats. John McLeod back from a trapping expedition on the Umpqua in charge of the boat in which Narcissa rode and the Spaldings in the other. It was a cold, rainy trip but they arrived at Fort Walla Walla in due time to be welcomed by Mr. arid Mrs. Pambrun and Chief Rotten Belly who had come to escort the Spaldings to the Clearwater. Marcus

came down to the Fort before the Spa].dings left with the Nez Perce and reported he and Gray had almost completed one room of their house. flenry and Eliza Spalding left soon with the Nez Perce where they would have to winter in a skin teepee before they could build a 0house Pambrun prevailed on Whitman to leave Narcissa at the Fort

until the house could be completed. A few weeks later Marcus came for her and they moved to the site of the new mission which was on the Waila Walla River about twenty five miles from Fort Walla Wails and about six miles west of present day Walla Walla. The

place was known to the Cayuse tribe as the place of Rye Grass or in the Cayuse language Wai—i—lat..pu.

The Cayuse were not a large tribe in comparison with the Nez Perce. They were a bold, independent people, rich in horses and were known as the Imperial tribe of the Columbia. Their numbers had been reduced to about three hundred warriors at this time by their struggles with the Snakes and as a result of epidemics that affected them about the year 1800. The Nez Perce were much more numerous and it has been estimated that they could assemble at least three thousand warriors. It is known for a fact that over two t.hausand warriors had been gathered together at one place more than cice. 09

I We will leave the Whitinans at Waiilatpu and follow the Spaldings to their chosen location on the Clearwater called Lapwai. [ [ [

L

EZ

Li h Li

Li

1 70

THEINFLUENCEOF TH SPALDINGS

C On the 29th day of November 1836 Henry Harmon Spalding and Eliza Spalding arrived at Lapwai, which Spalding had previously r selected as the site for their mission to the Nez Perce. Eliza Spalding, frail at the outset of their long overland journey, found her health improved beyond all expectations. L Only for three weeks and three days did they have to live in the buffalo hide teepee. Mr. Spalding and Mr. Gray with the help of the Indians had built a log house forty—eight feet long by [ 18 feet wide. The Spaldings used eighteen feet of one end for - their home and the larger room was used as a school, meeting room - -

El and church. There seems no doubt that the Nez Perce chiefs that met the 1L missionary party at the rendezvous on Green River, Laiyer (Ish-ho1 hoL.hoats-hoats) and Tak-en-sue—tis (Rotten Belly) had picked the El Spaldings in preference to the hitmans. The Nez Perce loved Mrs. Spalding in particular the 1frail rather homely Eliza, won their hearts somehow. She must hare possessed some rather remark— L able traits of character to have won the popularity contest with ‘i the glamorous and beautiful Narcissa Whitman. The Nez Perce adopted Mrs. Spalding almost at once. They said ‘1She had a quiet heart — was not exciteable, and readily picked up their language.” Mrs.-La’wyer was with Lawyer when the Nez Perce met the missionaries at Green River. She did not accompany

the missionaries to Fort Walla WaJ.].a but went with Lawyer back through; •the buffalo country to.help lay up a winter supply of meat. Only Tak—ensue—tis accompanied the missionaries to make sure the Spaldings came to the Nez Perce country. In later years Mrs. Lawyer fL said, ‘Mrs. Spaldirig was so kind, so gentle, so altogether good.

hy, she could talk quite well with us before she reached our own land.’ The Spaldings taught the Nez Perce many things. Mr. Spalding preached and taught agriculture. Mrs. Spalding taught school for

both children and adults, she also taught domestic arts. Mr Spalding helped in the school room. Together, the Spaldings translated the gospel of St. Mathews into the Nez Perce tongue. About a year after building their first house, they moved the Mission to the Clearwater near the mouth of the Lapwai and built a larger house. Spaldirzg fenced in fifteen acres of ground for cultivation, both for self-support and as a demonstration farm for

the Indians, He planted an orchard and felt that he was as much a missionary while planting or hoeing his corn and potatoes as when he translated the book of Mathew into the native tongue. Three years passed before the Mission received its first con.. verts. These wore only two; Old Joseph, (Tu-a—kas) and Timothy (Tam-rriut_sin). Thzy had, “finished their minds” to foilow the new way. About four more years passed before any more formal converts were made. In 1839 a printing press was received at Lapwai. Mr. E. 0. Hall and wife came with the press to operate it. The work of the Mission, the church and the school was greatly helped by the printing press. Many Nez Perce learned to read and write. Dr. Elijah White Sub Agent for Indian Affairs West of the Rocky Mountains, visited Lapwai in 1842. At a great council a code of laws was adopted, and a Head Qiief for the Nez Perce elected. This was ElliS, a young man whom the Nez Perce had sent to the Red River Settlements with the Hudson’s Bay people and who had been educated there. *

where penetrated unite investigation later because the dwelling, at and the trol. authority have turbed rejected and their entire Here stood Perce chief,

“to

the

Henry people

former corporal follow

been The

he The The Ellis

misunderstandings under the principles emergencies later

nest time Each for Nez

his

died

most number code

Spaldings

an Hart Nez as fines

much was

their other into Perce situation

band and a looked of opinions

punishment

their egotistical of

was of

of Perce single

the the Spa].ding.

made but of

the of

smallpox

laws transgressions.

thorn. had and people. hearts”

made

such

a

had back Massacre

converts influence only

Nez they politióal

was

his stated leader and their

custom.

provided

three as

in

by

with They

Head Perce and

were

individual resumed. and life knowledge or

war

1855 The This

lashes,

Chief

was number were

but trouble.

or

went

and shame got children Chief

not

homes denaMed Their so eldest, organization,

death

after chief system

was killed

uncomfortable

after

not or good

ready There

to

the

of was ever at The

and

leader unharmed, to Chiefs

for

the

numerous the and

beaver

their Eliza at of

judgement

number

him

white abo.it

respected.

a concerted

was were

for

to

imirder

buffalo

missions Lapwai, after remarkable government

wield like who

only

his not

treatment

was which

pelts

10

1847 men

determined

but

that

held the

well

laws. or

hornets advanced

exercised could

at

authority country Eliza, never action

or

the

at in

the

for

Wei—ye-lat-poo

Only

crisis

he was

his

extent.

liked.

Wei—i-.latpoo 1848.

fact

of sway teachings

Ellis burning

some

left

fully

frau

position foreign Martha did in

by

Ellis. ideas to

was

such led

and over instances

a offenses The live. them,

the

Re

seems a

under

An

sub

to over

and of

dis-.

con-. Jane

taught

Iez the bands to

a

to 73 arid Lapwai had been abandoned in l816 after the massacre at Wei..i.. r lat-poo and it was found that in the homes of about one third of the Nez Perce (one thousand persons) regular morning and evening [. worship and public worship was kept up with the singing of the Nez Perce hymns and the reading of the book of Mathew, which the Spaldings had translated for them eight years before. The Nez Perce continued to raise potatoes and other garden products. There were large gardens at the winter villages along [ the Grande Ronde, Joseph Creek, arid Iznnaha. Some of the older people stayed to look after them while the rest of the village performed their annual migration to gather food by hunting, fishing, digging roots end picking berries. Also, as tie years passed, more and more L of their time was devoted to careing for their stock, horses and [ cattle. The5e they moved to spring, summer and fail pasturage and back again to winter pasture near their villages. After the treaty

[j. of 1863 was forced upon the Nez Perce, nearly all such improved garden grounds were among the first places filed on by white settlers. U This occurred on the Grande Ronde, Joseph Creek, Imnaha, Salmon

River, Wnitebird Creek, Asotin Creek and other places. Many Nez Perce would gladly have filed on these places as homesteads if they had been allowed to do so, and renounced their tribal status. What L better way could have been devised to encourage a rapid assimilation?

L There can be little doubt that the influence of the missionaries was largely responsible for the gradual movement to force the Indians of most tribes upon reservations of small size. This was desiied to force them to live in email areas where they could be under the constant watchful eyes of the missionaries. They wanted ( a captive audience and the idea of Indians as scattered independent stockmen or farmers was distasteful to them. Their interest was not in the economic welfare, or independence or even in the rapid civilization of the Indian, but1 rather preparation for the after life and the saving of souls according to the tenets of their par.. ticular religious denomination. 0Rev Henry Harmon Spalding had a wider, more tolorant and en.. lightened viewpoint. He taught as a minister and a country Agent.

Miss Kate C. MoBeth says in, THE NEX PERCE SINCE LEWIS ANDCLARK,

“He (MrG Spalding) felt he was as much a missionary when planting or hoeing his corn and potatoes, as when translating the book of Mathew into the natIve tongue.

Mr. Spalding did regret the extended absences of some of his people when they went to the buffalo country, as these trips some.. times took a year or longer. As for the summer trips to fish, hunt and gather roots and berries, he recognized that they were necessary and that there were certain intangible values as well. Spalding took his preaching and his teaching to the ez Perce after the fashion of a Circuit Rider, his preaching points were Alpawa, Shemenekan (Lewiston), Lapwai, Askiwewa, Asotin and Kamiab.

Mr. Spalding with the assistance of the Nez Perce, built a samill and gristmill at Lapai and a gristmill at Alpowa. AU these improvements and educational endeavors were brought to a sudden halt and abandoned after the massacre of the Whitman at Weiye.lat—poo by the Cayuse on November 29, 1847. The Nez Perce protected the Spaldings from the anti..missionary hysteria and furnished an armed party of forty to escort them to Fort Walla Walla. The Spaldings went to the Willaniette Valley and settled there where Mrs. Spalding died in 1851. Mr. Spalding married a second time while in the Willamette Valley.

Although his home was there, his heart was among the Nez Perce, He returned to Lapwai in 1862 tinder government appointment as Superin.. tendent of Education, but that office was abolished in 1865. Again he taught the Nez Perce much of value during those three years. In 187]. Mr. Spalding again returned to Lapwai as a missionary. There was now an Agent there, Mr. John Monteith and as the Nez Perce came to Spalding with their troubles and constantly sought his advise, this led to strained relations between the Agent and Miss ionary. So, the Presbytery at a meeting in the spring of 1873 ad vised Spalding to sieve up to Kainiah, which he did. He still rode the circuit preaching in Alpowa, Lewiston, Lapwai, Asotin, North Fork and 0Kamiah He preached among the Spokanes and often among the Urnatillas. Spalding died at Lapwai August 3, 1874 and was buried there near the site of his old mission house, “aged seventy years, eight months and seven days.’

Spaldings influence among the Nez Perce was great indeed, and long lasting. The tmtire tribe respected him and valued his advise, but their affecticn and love they gave to the gentle, kindly under.. standing, Eliza Spalding.

Some careless historians have stated that after the Whitman massacre, Old Joseph of the Wallowa band of Nez Perce rejected the teachings of Christianity and returned to the religion of his fathers, as did most of his people. This however, was not the case. He was a practicing Christian until the time of the signing of the treaty of 1863 by the Lawyer faction of the Nez Perce tribe. It was at that time that he tore up his cherished copy of the New Testiment that

Spalding had given h3.m and renounced the ways of the white man. How— MJNTAIN N

The Nez Farce of Wallowa County, Chief Joseph’s Band, so far as

it is now knot.m never had a white man who lived with them and who advised and helped them. The Nez Perce in the Lapwai, Clearwater and Asotin area were fortunate to have several, The most noted and the man whe helped them most to understand and deal with the whites was ex-mountain man William Craig. The bottom fell out of the fur market during the late 1830’s, the American fur companies pulled back onto the prairies where buffalo robes became their main source of business. The mountain men and trappers who still rOamed the Rockies were reduced to a bare exis tance. Some like Jim 6ridges traded with the Indians and overland

travelers. A few took to pillage and horse stealing. Some hunted buffalo for the Companies, while others lived with the Indians of the various tribes into which they had married. Wiiliam Craig and John Larison came to the Lapwai country with their Nez Perce wives and settled there in the late fall of 18L40. They

came from Fort Hall to Wai—i—let—poowith a trio of mountain men who had also married Nez Peree women. Robert “Doc” Newell, Joe Meek and Caleb Wilkins had married Nez Perce sisters and they settled in the

Willamette Valley with their families. Newell visited the Nez Perce several times for extended periods. Finally moving to the reservation where he later served a short time as Indian Agent. This party of mountain men was the first to bring wagons through from Fort Hail to Wai—i-let—poo (3 of them), although they got there with only the running gears.

William Craig’s place was near the Mission of Lapwai. He [ [ [. L [

1 [

[. [‘

r r -. -. W. along and the white vations. such frontiersmen, servation first on a of reservation WiUiam the subject and land shown quarrels preter. “The faed was permanent C. his the Umatila; United was receiver fourth The also other McKay’s now said men Nez Article piece himself land intercourse and in W. Craig timatifla, occupied but married Perce The highly Craig and divide States mountain coramon day C. raised of 15 resident provided land of the 10, majority Craig married speeded their McKay. should patented years. of Indians and the regarded to following and of to with by claim; June Walla ock act.” assisted Spalding men, land a friend, the their of for him the continue the Nez point In of Years the last, having land the Nez Walla and miners, in thence and office by Article Confederated these Perce civilization This women lands excerpt area, this due it was Perce are the Spalding later, to described shall to expressed and in is men women be west of east whites. reported a and at treaty, of live 1 settling itself further Treaty te Cayuse recorded not the is were of William least the living along of in and with quoted, Tribes, the of be Territory in friend reservation many the in ex-Hudson’s shows except of to He tribes the lived one his considered agreed Treaty there this them, council on in Craig’s 1855 have often southwest ways. missionary, Nez notice Waila of “Thence or the that on that claim also in of that he had is the near of Perce. acted or Territory a William 1840 farm Washington, to having Waila, 1855 quoted Bay a it to desire some Nez had near the to northerly corner their the part the shall as men. was and the between Perce. and several tract violent the operations uniformly here: inter.. Cayuse Craig register of that reser.. the living of south.. of be re. Cie the Idaho. on of He was 1Jhites.

McKay’s

Perhaps east

in

some

No These

corner;

he

cases claim

such

This

men

did

thence men

was was

heipe1

not

exorcised

ware

noteably

just

need

in

secure

on

a outside

help.

line

hand considerable

true

better

to

to

the

in

the assist

reservation.

the treatment

place

influence

case

Chief

of

of

of

beginning.”

Joseph

Wifliam

the

over

Indians

and

the

Craig.

his

Indians

Thus

from

band.

the

and which mission and traded measels pasturing die, proof tribes Columbia. tracted affected that racial disease emigrants on ing stealing one these frequently such cold

the

broken half

sickness

water, After There at One

as if

that two

continued

basis by

resistance of

TUE not were brought at the the least

horses but

of of

years. the arrived emigrants

stock

were Lapwai, to the

Subsequently Dr.

caused

was

practice the disease the CAUSES indeed

with

their of especially

work,

one Inland

Nhitrnan massacre

Umatilla and among of especially intermittently causes claiming on

unnecessary half hot to in Over

poisoning OF losses it

favorite course

were when

recovered cattle

the Empire

of the

appeared THE the

steam

was

one of of

this many at

deadly

white

valuable poor Graide stock tribe

also the the

other Cayuse CAIUSE

Waii1atpu

half from intentionally severe

was

baths

grazing

whites

them

stock

massacre

and deaths, or

Cay-use

were with mans that

for died. through

Ronde the imminent,

factors of

WAR

worn

tribe

additions purposely.

this for followed

fattening

the the

white

a

Indians. lands

diseases. of severe.

MJD

tribe

general Valley The

out, this

Walla was by 18117. trading riany Reliable Indians

and

leading

THE

allowing

Nez brands, the

of

by the

died type for

the

of to

Walla TREATIES

Most the

in or

up-rising

This a The emigrant

Perce

who

liquor Their the the severe Indian

abandonment

plunge the on to of of estimates

Indians,

which whites

the effects

was

had the later the tribe Indians sickness severe

were

lush

method

07 epidemic to

Indians

stock

developed measels train

plains usually or

of had

1855

who

bunchgrass less and the emigrant

discontent, rinse of and indicate

the

considered

of when been and of

this of about

Indians, con

to

severely

of

the

Indian

treat of done during

i8Z6

in

no

the the ‘I.’ t trains and were frecuently taken by force on the basis of the iqhite brands and in spite of the fact that they had been legally acquired r by the Indians. Perhaps most important of all was the general attitude of the 1’ whites toward the Indians. The pioneers in nearly all cases harbored [ unusuafly strong racial prejudices against the Indians, which had been r fostered by generations of atrocity tales, until a great many of the imigrants honestly believed that, “the only good Indians were dead [ Indians.” The iinigrants seemed incapable of distinguishing between the basically friendly, highly moral, Sahaptian stock of Indians and [ other tribes who were actually enemies of the whites. Insults and r outrages against Indian women were all too frequent. In spite of these aonditions the Nez Perce used all their in— fluence to prevent arnrxi conflict with the whites. William Craig [] and Old Joseph met the Oregon volunteers at Wai—i—lat-pu with 250 [ warriors and arranged for peace. Joseph came to the council wider an American flag carrying a New Testament. The soldiers campaigning L against the Cayuse, Walla Walla and Umatillas punished them severely in revenge for the Whitman massacre, but the Nez Perce were not [ bothered. General Joel Palmer, Indian Agent for Oregon, appointed William L — Craig as Indian Agent at Lapwai with the powers of a magistrate at this time, March 1848. Craig acted as local Indian Agent for many years. The winter of 1846..47 was the most severe known in the Northwest since the coming of the whites. Deep snows and long weeks of sub.. zero weather killed most of the Indians growing cattle herds, many ( of their horses and most of the game. The Indians lacked sufficient food supplies for such a winter, they were reduced to short rations L [ [ L F’ [ L [ Li [ r [ [ L r L

r r

women. William

with the Territory whites. unfortunate ravages and three Nez not late date prosperity at of of official followed Umatilla council Red of crops. grain

Wails.

the Indians Lapwai

their Wolf

other have Perce

the During and Genera]. In

hundred

and

entire

The May Mr. in of

Craig

Wails.. would

treaties Re and had documents. occurred, game

weakened

tribes, vegetables attended. of

in

measels.

with

attending the

turn Nez remained the of Anson

Washington Waila

1851 a Joel

warriors

was almost

Nez

Waila

18.55

undoubtedly fine

Perce next considerable

The of

were

Palmer their including and Dart,

Perce

Waila’s

the condition and

events

Isaac orchard

Walla

non-existant.

the This Spring at few

Council each

constituted commended

at even

council. signed,

Lapwai principle and tribe. of

years

treaty Indian

would

year,

the Stevens

had

have the

Valley the

Walla

if came Indian at

rendered

lasted progress

council.

Waii1atpu

where not the

Alpowa. it

Indian

with turned Agent It indicate the council.

late

Not

Wallas,

had

near about advisor Governor

been

Agent Nez

is

If

from

good

he more potatoes

them

in occurred, along for stated service

the

out the Perce

Many

developed The so

one

1847,

a May behavior

for

Umatiilas,

than and The Oregon

more

period quite

present severely strength

of

massacre

balance half agricultural

were

the that

23 of

held as the

contact

Cayuse

the

sixty

the susceptible

to the

differently.

Northwest, Territory, one of

newly a twenty and of seldom

salmon

a site

June

reduced

was of prosperous

Indian the Nez

probably

numbered peace routine Palouses, of of

man

unusual

the

made whom

their total U of formed Perce

lines. mentioned

five

runs with

War

Cayuse, and

the

on

by to

held together

were up

council

would

which hundred progress principle numbers raised about

were which

this the

farm. the

town

some

of

a

in 83 small adjacent bands, and the Yaldinas, the second largest group, The white treaty negotiators first tried to get all of the

Indians to move into the Nez Perce country as their territory was fartherest from the white settlements and routes of travel, but this was strongly-opposed by all tribes. Eventually the Yakitnas were mollified by being allowed to retain a large area in their homeland, but were to be required to take in several more or less independent bands of Columbia River Indians and most of the Palouses. The Wafla Waflas, Cayuse and Umatillas eventually signed a treaty in which they were allowed to keep a small area on the west slope of the Blue Mountains, which was normally a part of the Cayuse and Umatifla country. The Walla Walla’ s being few in numbers decided to cast their lot with the Umatillas and Cayuse, but they retained none of their home territory. Stevens and Palmer tried to induce these three tribes to accept the Grande Ronde Valley as their reservation which

would have been so drawn as to join the Nez Perce reservation. Many of the Chiefs were agreeable to this proposal but a

Cayuse Chief, Istachus, was instrumental in having the vote go against the proposal on the grounds that locating the tribes there would place them too near their traditional enemies, The Snakes of the Shoshonee peoples. Stevens and Palmer would not guarantee their safety from the Snakes, so these three tribes voted for the Utnatilla River country which placed the barrier of the Blue Mountains betreen them and the Snakes. However, before accepting that area the chiDfs insisted that the immigrant travel be diverted around the reservation and Article V of this treaty provides that, among other things, of not to exceed ten thousand dollars be expended by the United

States Government in locating and opening a wagon road around the south boundary of the reservation. The wording in the treaty does not specifically state that the Government would undertake to prevent imagrant travel through the reservation, but the writer has been informed-by reliable old Indians of the Umatiila Reservation that such was the understanding at the time the treaty was signed. This road provided for in the treaty was actually built, but only after several years. The treaty was ratified by the U.S. Senate on March 8, 1859 and Proclaimed and signed by James Buchanan, President of the United States of America, on April il, 1859. However, it was in part poorly laid out with numerous crossings of the Grande Ronde River between Hilgard and Starkey, which made the road unde sirable during high water periods and most of the travel continued over the Old Oregon Trail via Meacham. The Nez Perce treaty was quite satisfactory to the Nez Perce as it allowed them to retain most of their territory. They gave up roughly the equivalent of the present Garfield County of the State of Washington, and part of Whitman County, with a few winter village sites in addition, such as, Starbuck, Almota, Wa—wa-wai and their beloved Tucannon River. The Indians signed the treaties under duress. Governor Stevens is reported to have told them, ‘if they refused to seil, soldiers would be sent to wipe them off the earth.” What proud people would not have resented such a threat. Ghief!s Latiyer, Joseph and Looking Glass were able diplomats and secured for their people the best possible deal at the time. It is believed by students of the treaty proceedings that Looking Glass’s late arrival at the council at which time he sutnmrily de.. nounced all the prior negotiations was a calculated move on the L L r L [ [ [ [ r

[1

p

Li

[

L [

Washington

Glass’ claimed the

was treaty on lodges. Saturday not without

Lieutenant to

to was to for and the paid stratagem receive

Cayuse, part the the

concessions

Sunday,

the

suppose

settle

Nez

left

gone

the

least, populous true

best

stratagem

Now,

in

of

speech

and

council

by

Perce

Wails. dismounting Nez

the the

Joseph,

me

June you

I

even

deal

it

for

caused

north

his

will none but

Lawrence

that

their

a

Perce

form at same

seems

have

tribes,

on

Chiefs 9 place

Wafla’s

was their

though

that

band,

on

assembly

the

Looking talk

of

it

Latyer

of the

payment

any

amount

of

Monday,

sold

can

successful

reasonable

the

did.

they last

the

Kip, on

from

annuities, small

which

8th

to signed

altering

the

so

not

and

Indians which my

arid

Grande

you.” Glass

he

moment, reduced were

as

that

his

was

“My It Nez

June

country. Uxnatilla’s now

reservation.

was

made

the

Looking

the

will

to people,

horse.

Perce to only able

his

to

made

be

of

Ronde roughly

would

Uth

This

Yakima’s

silaries

treaty.

pitch

a

in a after

suppose

be

determined,

the

particular

short

degree to

$100,000.00

a

numbers

relinquished

Glass

when

occurred

I recalled

River,

what

sign. strong He boundaries

who

engineer.

my

have

Joseph

what

Whether

and said,

namely

for

the

from

lodge.

gave far

aned

have

come by

had

is

The

speech

the

territory,

council

on

that

but very

the

and

the

as

up disease,

now

you

These

at

$200,000.00

in

home, June council

Looking

less

of It chiefs,

Go reported

there Lawyer

the

Nez

words

when

violent

securing

fact Asotin

against

done?

the

is

home

convened, 8

most,

Perce land. once

and

a

and

were he

reservation

is

been

the

of did

Glass’ had

etc. fact

to

County,

While by

there

rode reason powerful

speech

Looking

the

on were

to

received

additional

land

not

your

The

compeiled

secured

excluded

that

be

This

all

up

meet

is

I to r L [ LA r L L [ [ C r r [

(

from

turned Snake placing treaty great Alpowa the miles miles thus Elgin..Waston Ronde Blue line have inside believed these Powder following

of territory. treaty summit

salaries, county

Oregon

reservation,

the

Mountains

been including

from

One

war

River

which below boundaries down

as from

the Creek

River;

he in of

all

reservation.

thing these

chief

signed

the never the and able the following to

reservation. the

at

an

of

the

is

In

which

Highway

which

Washington,

thence reservation. Blue

“divide

the

incursion the

the from

to Grande just payments addition

should

of

mouth

accepted

on

as

Joseph

secure

mouth the

it area

Mountains important

he

June

the

above

a Snake

formed to

followed

between Ronde

be duty was of

The Nez

tributary

head

the

he

should

Uth of into

had

From

the

an remembered, any

the River

to

entitled.

winter

Perce

to

did

Asotin

the

River

important crossing

Wenaha

seen of

Powder follow including

of

the left

mouth Tollgate

his the

to

not

go

western

Alpowa

to

the

and

village

Blackfoot

to the to

waters

people. north

to

the Creek.

the

want

River

River:” of

instead

gifts,

he

Looking

it

of

those even

As

suimiit

concession

Snake

to line Creek Gordon

practically

that supposed boundary

the

of

he

to

of

of

and the

though

Looking

Elgin.

Now payments, bands had

feel

country.

between up the Snake

Looking

River

of the Glass’ to

Joseph

Looking

Crossing

Creek

Looking

Alpowa

sold

the

Walllow.ahow the

any

to

summit

of

by which

Joseph

River

Glass

at

From

all

have

viflage Blue Toilgate

the had and the

no changing

obligation

Glass

annuities

the At

Glass

Creek

of

Glass

of had land,

of reservation, about

that

Territories insisted fifteen

signed

was

any Mountains

just

mouth

the

Asotin

was

the

given

within

Creek

to

rate the

on

may point

and the

he

re—

two Grande

on

the

this

or to

of

the

on

up

the

the [ L. [ [ r 1-i

r r [ r —

(

Washington,

Boundaries.

the

in Cession United Whitman Superintendent arid and Oregon of tendent and whites affairs Articles 12 of

ground, Reservation. National

in Chiefs.

Oregon

the

June, Stats.) these

above being

Bitter

between

Articles The

and Nez

States,

in

of

for

of

National Camp

in of pages. Forest,

entire

Territory. named

duly

any

Lands

partly Root

Perce p957,

Indian

and

the

:saac the agreement

Stevens

9

slightest

Isaac authorized

arid

tribe Mountains

year Superintendent

Territory

text and

to

tribe

TREATY Forest It all

in affairs

I. Proclamation,

the

the

will

10

Washington

I.

Stevens1 one

of of

of and

in

were undersigned

of

United

WITH

was

Stevens the degree. the

Indians

thousand the be

thereto on Indians

for of

convention

Wallowa

noted Nez

included included

Washingtcn,

Walla behalf

THE

Oregon

governor

Palmer States.

assumes Territories,

Apr.

Perçe

residing

NEX

by

occupying

eight that

Walla

chiefs,

of

National

them, made

Tsrritory, 29, PERCES, at

in

with

treaty

and

and

a

to

hundred

this

the

Valley, large

1859. and

within

and

those

treat acting

it head-men,

superintendent

lands

expressed

between

1855 Forest of

Joel original

being

concluded

part

Ratified 1855 and

on

residing the

only this

for lying

Palmer,

the

understood

and fiftyfive, of

Territory

the

and follows

with

desire Nez eleventh said

part.

the

part

partly at

Mar.

delegates

Cascade

exclusively

Perce

of

superin—

those Umatilla

tribe,

the

of

next

Indian

of of

8,

of the

that in day

treaty

by the

the “If

1859

of L [ [ L [ r r [ Ii [ [ L r [ [ L

C

ARTICLE linquii

Wo—na.ne-she and interest

that the Mountains; Tucanon

thence and between

crossing Root Salmon of Reservation. to ARTICLE

Walla, for Territory, servation

of

tributary flows cing to

the described

the

Snake

land the

the

river

the

Mountains;

where

to 1.

from River

place Salmon

River;

mouth and Cayuse, the

in

crossing

use 2.

included

of

River,

a

to

for thence The

and

to

point not waters

the convey the Snake

or

There

and

as

the of

of

the River;11 fifty

Boundaries. thence

other

said to

southern

to

and Moh—ha—na—she

spurs follows,

beginning. thence at

occupation

the

of main

within on southerly

River1 the mouth

is,

exceed to of

the

Umatila Nez

miles

the

Woll—low—how friendly Grande

thWoll-low-how up

the

country of thence

Palouse; however,

along mouth

Perce

of tributary Snake

the

the

at the to

the United

above

the

along of Ronde

wit: the

Tucanon

tribes following

Bitter

due the

of

tribes present tribe

or occupied

River

the

Ti..natpanup

thence reserved

mouth the

the

states

souther north

cre3t

the

River, River;

Commencing of

said

and of

Root place ten

Tucanon to

and

the

ridge numbers

and of

in

boundaries, Indians

or to

of

tribe, its

bands all

miles

from bands midway

thence

Mountains; tributary Powder

Palouse

a

Powder claimed known the the

southerly

of source

their

River;

at

Creek; the

of of

below Bitter summit

and the hereby of

between

along

River; the

(as)

the

Indians, River;

River;

lands

Indians rit, by

in Blue as

to of

thence

thence thence source the

Spokane, them,

the

Root of direction

the a

wit: the cede,

the

thence

above Mountains;

general Grand thence

thence the mouth

title,

crossirig

Blue

in the divide

Palouse Mountains up

bounded

of down

southerly

re

Gcmrnen—

Bitter

Washington

the

Walla— ceded Ronde

tract

to the

of

to

down

to

re cx)

and

said

the

the

River

[

r r

L L r

L

L

[

[

L r

[

[

r r L

/ C - Indian, provided this any citizens of States, upon In ground tendent the the an and All the not Reservations place the below Poser thence between Mountains; River the the the Indian lands said employment which marked time, U.S. to crossing; the Alowad not owner of mean the Rivers; in such reside and along arid that of same the reservation not beginning. reservation; the tract and mouth in out the upon time agent; thence as of Grand any actually to the within the Blue not thereon thence thence fields of for United claimant shall be any it of River; substantial actual divide the included and Ronde to Mountains; the set the shall ground without one by to the Indian enclosed be without, occupied States the nor exclusive apart, Powder thence the year claim the between and set guarantying, be crossing said shall in claimed spurs lawful crossing the permission Department, improvement apart, to after thence the and and River; to and and etc. tribe enter the mouth any use the reservation Indians of occupation of cultivated, cultivated or for the and, waters along white and Improvements the thence of agrees the srce upon however, occupied, of these ratification of the be heretofore benefit so Bitter the Grande to the the man, and of permitted far to Snake to of settle Wofl—low-.how to of above by the tribe crest arid the occupy the remove the excepting as Root if reside citizens Rondo of said to Woil-low-how River houses necessary, with right Salmon Al-po—wa made named. said thereon. of and of be Mountains to Indians as River, to upon this the paid the fifteen the reside tribe by to settlers of and those erected River River; Blue any And all permission the any treaty. superin— for midway settle Whites surveyed at as to and upon in miles above United by the C

agrees ARTI

hunting,

Payments anc ting tomed The through CLE_3 Privileges through Indians; upon highways. nearest upon money, money States Roads aforesaid. other the common ience, in improvements

consequence

cattle exclusive

President

temporary

the the

places

may hand,

or

to

with

roads for

or

4.

public or the

by

as

gathering

lands reservation,

improvements

pay

be

improvements

upon

bordering

rafting

The

secured

In the

also reservation And

the

citizens

in

may made. aforesaid,

to

right

of

consideration

buildings

use hereby highway,

of

United

open

privided common right

the

the

be the

this

roots,

to purposes,

of

run of

said and right

United

said

of

the and of Indians. of ceded,

with

States.

taking

treaty,

of

now through

is the is

unclaimed

way, for

that,

equal

tribe

and reservation

no

an

Clear

of also

secured

United

citizens occupied States,

of

curing, equal and and

Indian

berries,

taking

with fish

value

if shall

the

in

Water

the

secured

which

as

necessary

addition

land.

value

States, to free in

above

will

and public

said

together

by

of fIsh be

shall

all

is and them,

and he

valued the

him, payment

access to

be

be further

reservation,

cession,

may at the

other

pastureing highways.

be

to

citizens

to

made Territory;

required

as for

all

until

with

be

furnished travel

streams

the

under

from also

made

the

streams

usual

for

compelled secured

the

the their

goods

public

the

the of

to therefor

upon the

said

where

their

and,

United

privilege and

and

the

him

abandon

flowing right,

same

arid value

to direction

Indian

all -

United

to accus

of conven

on

horses

as

running

said

provisions

to

States

in abandozi

erec. public the

in

in

the

the

of

of C

C

and

keeping ratification

school, able ARTICIE_ The

relation United And.

years, next shall thousand may cretion, Payments, provisions of All thousand the breaking the distributed two cation

say,

the

stationery, United

which

the

hundred first deem President

points

five

sixty

each

States,

said

of six

to

the

superintendent

thereto.

upon

dollars

necessary, up dollars

how years,

said this five

be

year

States

thousand thousand and

within

The

same

Indians, and thousand to

hereof,

located

what

to

of

who

years treaty, sums a them

United

one

inform

fencing

in

be

each eight the each

suitable

to

said beneficial may

repair, of

applied.

of and

dollars, at each

two

establish under

United dollars,

after

at

year.

year,

which

States

the money of

from the thousand

in

reservation,

the

farms,

the

schools

year,

Indian providing

outfit,

President

the

the time

and

time

remainder States,

commencing

agency,

shall

to

shall

further

objects

in

schools, direction building and ratification

providing

dollars be

of

erecting

affairs, to

the

and

be

be

for expended

signing

time

for the

within

and

of

foilcMing

an

agrees

applied to

for

in

the

September

etc. the

their

houses1

each first

to

agricultural

determine,

expend of annuities,

them the

or

such

next

this

be

wishes

one

under

the

of

to

year;

other

necessary

year

to

removal

with

free

manner,

this other

year

estab1ish

the

President treaty,

five

supplying

the 1,

the

proper

of

for after

to

furniture,

at

1856; treaty, as

same

after use

years,

objects

and

the

to direction

the

his

that the

follows:

buildings,

the

the and the

for

industrial

them

IndIans officer,

of for

the

children at des..

next

ten

four is

sum

benefit reserve, ratifi.. them.

the as

suit

the

books,

with

to

he of

five of

—

for

in C V

And.

position

acres him, occupied properly

person twenty to

arid occupying An

accomodation Salary lishinents employees vided two

and erect tion tendent pair,

attached gunsmith, teachers;

of shop,

the

in

said

all

will

millers

furnished

at

of

of

‘with view

one and

one

years, as

Nez

to

the

a

the

tribe,

of

by

by, land.

furnish

be

a

much the

suitable head to to

wagon

saw-mill one furnished to

Perce

of the

tinshop farming

his

expenditures

called to

Indians

such

be

be

of

build

tribe after

the with

carpenter,

of

necessary

chief; erect

and

tribe,

The

maintained

kept the

arid

the

tribe

head

his

fact

point

upon,

the and and

and to

two

may

the said

with

plough said in

same,

a

in

time, house,

employ

and

chief

five

that hospital,

necessary trade, two to one blacksmith

ratification

select

service

and

on salary

to

furniture the employees. one

the

no

and

maker’s

and

flouring-miil, farmers,

the

hundred the perform

the

expenses

so wagon

etc.

necessary

one

longer.

arid

other

to to

kept

long to

reservation, United

head

for

keeping tools

superintendent

plough be

to

shops,

be

the

and

shop,

dollars

any

the

in two a

as hereof,

its

The chief

assist

contemplated paid

gunsmith’s

repair buildings States plough tools;

and

he

period

blacksmiths,

services

head arid

the

and said

to

keeping

may

to,

of

fixtures,

per

them

one

a

fence as

to same

chief. further the buildings maker,

as

to

be arid

comfortable

of

year

a

keep

of of

of required

aforesaid, employ

in shop;

elected

tribe salary twenty the

in

the in

for

which

teaching

a

the

for

repair, the

and for

one

this

To

agrees public

same

his

said

one

and

is

one same;

build

the

years.

for

to the tinner,

same

shall

to

for

use

fifth house,

expected,

in

carpenter’s

house

and

estab... and

employ

superin..

that

term to

such character, and

instruc..

to

the repair,

in

ten

for be

pay

the two

pro..

re-

one

be

and.

of States, between tribe

of, Government the

violate the year provided ARTICLE to ARTICLE citizens Government

proper, home,

selves Reservation duals cause ARTICLE or article frayed annuity-payments and

said

pay

families.

agent, or property

shall

1854,

tribe,

except

on the or

if

the

of by

or them

this

8.

7. 6. to

of

thereof,

the in

families

injured

whole,

the

the not

its

out

the

of debts

be

so

this

The The the

may The

nor

and in

pledge,

of

same

the privilege,

far

United surveyed be

agent,

property of

self—defence,

aforesaid

annuities such President

sixth

be

treaty shall

the

of

or

be

deducted

the

or

and United

as

terms

of

surveyed

individuals.

a such

other

destroyed,

and

citizens; the

the

States.

for

annuities.

pledge

article

the charge

into

shall

taken

and

the

States,

portions and same

said

decision,

tribe

may of

cost from

Indians

lots,

ubject into

fact themselves will the

upon

be

but

shall

may

of tribe

from

and

of the

compensation

acknowledge

defrayed

and

aforesaid the lots

will

Nor

be

be

locate arid

the of transporting

to

should

time

annuities

and

be

to as

promise

satisfactorily

applicable. treaty

such

the will

assign

and annuities

submit

returned,

the are

abide

to

to

on

by

Government

any

reservation

assigned

they

commit willing tribe

time,

same

with

their

the

the

may

to

the

agreed

thereby; all

one

the

make

be

regulations

but

same United

be

or

the at

shall

same

matters

no

or dependence

friendly

to to

goods

made

proved

in

his

shall to

war of

more

Omahas

depredations as

to

as

avail

individuals

and

default

not

be

States,

the

discretion, a

by

on

he

such

for

of

permanent

of be

paid

if before

be

United

any

the

with

may them

as

in

difference

upon them

de

the

any

taken

indivi

there

the are

to

other

think A.,

all

of

on the the said Indians commit any depredation on any othei’ Indians within the Territory of Washington, the same rule shall prevail as that prescribed in this article in cases of depredationé against citizens

And the said tribe agrees not to shelter or conceal offender8 against the laws of the United 1States but to deliver them up to the author ities for trial. Annuities may be withheld from those who drink ardent spirits.

ARTICLE 9. The Nez Perce desire to exclude from their reservation the use of ardent spirits, and to prevent their people from drinking the same; and therefore it is provided that any Indian belonging to the tribe who is guilty of bringing liquor into said reservation, or

who drinks liquor may have his or her proportion of the annuities withheld from him or her for such time as the President may determine, Land of Wilaim Craig.

ARTICLE 10. The Nez Perce Indians having expressed in council a desire that Wiilia.m Craig should continue to live with them, he having uniformly shown himself their friend, it is further agreed that

the tract of land now occupied by him and described in his notice to the register and receiver of the land office of the Territory of Washington, on the fourth day of June last, shall not be considered a part of the reservation provided for in this treaty, except that it shall be subject in common with the lands of the reservation to the operations of the course act.

When treaty to take effect.

ARTICLE 12. This treaty shall be obligatory upon the contracting parties as soon as the same shall be ratified by the President and Senate of the United States. THEWALW*LA.NEZ PERCERESERVATION

By Executive Order dated June 16, 1873, President Grant ordered ‘S. the following described land to be withdrawn from entry and settle.. ment and set apart as an Indian Reservation for Chief Joseph’s Band of Nez Perce, inaptly describing said band as “the roaming Nez Perce Indians.” ’Gommencing at the right bank of the mouth of the Grande Ronde River; 1 thence up Snake River to a point due east of the southeast corner of township no. 1, south of the base line of the surveys in Oregon, in Range no. 46 east, of the Wilamette meridian; thence from said point due west to the Fork of the Wailowa River;

thence down said West Fork to its junction with the Wallowa River; thence down said. river to its confluence with the Grande Ronde River; thence down the last—named river to the place of beginning.”

On June 10, 1875 the Executive Order of June 16, 1873 was re. yoked by President Grant and the land in question was restored to the public domain for disposition under the Public Land Laws. The above described area consisted of approdmately 1,400,00 acres. The Executive Order of June, 1873, to which reference is above made, contained a provision which in effect required members of Joseph’s Band to talce up actual and continuous residence within the limits of the area so set aside for them by said Executive Order, and as a ground for the revocation of said order, it was alleged that Joseph’s people had not compiled with this requirement. Not with standing the later admitted fact that Joseph and his people did con tinue to occupy and reside exclusively within the area and made use of these lands in the customary manner including, hunting, fishing, root gathering, grazing and caring for their livestock, and the yo

cultivation of some fields. The executive Order of Juhe 16, 1873 C was arbitrarily revot’ed on June 10, 1875. Joseph and his people continued to occupy and reside on these lands after the revocation order until the;r were ejected there—from by the sovereign power of the United States in 1877.

( THE BETRAYALOF THE NEZ PERC

C When Governor Isaac I. Stevens came west to take over thor Governorship of the Territory of Washington, in 1853, he also held the office of Indian Agent for the entire area west of the Rocky

Mountains. He sent Lieutenant George B. McClellan to the Klickitats and Yakimas to arrange for a meeting with some of the chiefs to teil them that the Great White Father at Washington D. C. wanted to buy most of their lands and open them for white settlements. McClellan was engaged in exploratory survey work trying to locate a suitable route across the Cascades for the Northern Pacific

Railroad. He contacted a number of the chiefs including Kami-akin and Ow-hi and told them that Governor Stevens would meet them next year, 1854, for the purpose of arranging treaties to purchase their lands. This was extremely disquieting news to the Indians and word was sent to all the Inland Empire tribes by Ka-nii-akin and Ow-hi that the Great White Father in Washirgton D.C. wanted their lands and that if they would&t sell soldiers would come and drive them out of the country. During the summer of 1854 Governor Stevens met several of the chiefs and told them that he wanted to arrange for a council the following year for all the tribes of Eastern Washington and Eastern Oregon to talk over the purchase of their lands. The Chiefs told him that the Indians would not sell their land. It is reported that Stevens then told them that, “if the Indians would not soil, the iihites would take their lands by force and the Indians would get nothing.” Be also told them that if they refused to sign treaties selling their land, “soldiers would be sent to wipe them off the face of the earth.” Washington

WaUa

men with probably of at hoped boundaries the assemble had the posed Nez cope their Grando doing Garry the Governor over It

the the

is

whites. meeting and

heretofore Perce

general

Word

with

when The

The The

great

Wallas,

believed that people. of so confederacy.

three Ronde end

chiefs

the

in Council

that the Stevens council great

was

this

word

and

by

of

the

of secrecy

place the

agreement

Valley most great

Spokanes

and Ka-mi-akin sent 30

war the

each

to

that serious

Lai.iyer been accomplishment leaked Snake

Northwest.

met

days

lasted

and

Looking

a

because notable

might Cayuse,

to Indian

to tribes

was great

Arrangements rather no

that

and

selling

all

in

reached prevent were

out of

whites emergency.

often be for

the of

Bannock the

Glass the council Chiefs

Umatilla gathering fall

of through individual

the vague avoided.

the

The

five

Grande

its part Nez

tribes

used

by the knew of

in

principle

Yalcimas,

of

Grande

to

tribes remoteness the and the for days Perce,

of

the whites

some

of

the

and as

of

Ronde

form

of

the of

the territory. tribal

their often Council

Grande

a

the and

NeZ

Walla Ronde

great

of

Eastern

would

meeting

Ist.achus

tribal Peo-peu-mox..mox an

from council advocates

Valley.

all the council

Perce,

time

lands.

Indian

delegations from

Valley Wallas. Ronde

Indian

of

learning the come chiefs

leaders Oregon

place

the disputed.

white were

Many

of

to

until

chiefs

Valley

It Confederacy

and

They of

was

leaders

Grande

the

send

friendly

was

between

carried It meeting

of

arid

men.

of join

to

chosen

after

hoped on

Cayuse

of

was

these spoke

their the

and

the

Eastern

be

Ronde the

the

ever

the

The

also

held purpose was

the

meeting. with to it out by

to

as

lines for exact and

head

pro..

to

was was The objectIve of a tight confederacy of the tribes was not achieved. The Snakes and Barinocks said they would fight if general war broke out, but would fight only in their own country and in..

dependently. The Nez Perce would not commit themselves except to fight if attacked The Yakims, Klickitats, Cayuse and Waila Wailas were definately for war. Most trIbes we±’e hesitant, The final agreement seems to have been to play the game by ear, to meet Governor Stevens to hear from his own lips what he had to say, to show by the tribal boundaries agreements, that there was no unclaimed land to sell; no neutral lands which might be claipied by the whites as not belonging to any tribe, arid to hope for the best. Chief Lawyer (Hal..halt—los—sot) of the Nez Perce has been a very controversial figure on the pages of history. Some students of history consider him to have been a traitor to his race, while others maintain that he was a very wise man who did all that was humanly possible to guide the tribes of the Shaptian peoples along a course that would have lessened the evil effects of contact with the whites and provided time for the gradual adjustment to the ex treme changes which he could foresee as inevitable, leading to the eventual loss of their culture. Lawyer was a very intelligent man, he was also very ambitious. With an education and knowledge gained by travel, a habit of keen observation and remarkable reasoning powers, he was undoubtedly the best informed Indian in the Northwest in

regard to the strength and power of the whites. He also seems to have been the Indian best able to read the white mans thoughts and anticipate his probable reaction to any given situation. He knew that the Indians could not hope to win a war with the whites and that any war of his people with the whites could only lead to dis aster and humiliation for the Nez Perce or other tribes. Lawyers entire strategy in his dealings with the whites was to talk and demonstrate friendship, to secure for his people the maximum con.. sessions possible. This policy wàrked well for the Ne Perce arid worked also for the Yakinas at the treaty council at Waila Waila, and probably as well as could be for the Cayase, Umatiilas and

Walla Wallas who were in dis favor because of the Whitman massacre and the Cayiise war which followed. If the other tribes could have had the foresight of Lawyer there would have been no wars following

the treaties of 1855. One wonders sometimes if the influence of William Craig may not have manifested itself in the person of Lawyer. After the treaty council of 1855 and the siüng of the treaties, the Yakimas lost no time in stirring up a feeling among their neighboring tribes in favor of war. This movement was led

by Ka-mi..akinQ The Pa.louses, Spokans and Coeru d’Alenes declared they were ready to help the Yakimas. Other tribes were divided, even some of the Nez Perce were ready to war against the whites. During the fall of 1855 several parties of miners in the Yakiina Country were attached and several killed. Indian Agent A. J. Bolon was kiiled on September 21 or 22, 1855. Soldiers and volunteers engaged the Yakiruas in a war that fail which was not decisive. The war continued through 1856, but the final decision was not. made that year, only an uneasy truce existed to be fanned into flame in 1858. During this war of 1855 and 1856 there was one battle of local importance which was fought in the Grande Ronde Vailey. Col. B. F.

Shaw of the Washington Volunteers had been sent from Puget Sound over the Nah—cheez pass to the scene of activities. He and his .LUJ.

volunteers offered to cooperate with Colonel Wright and his army regulars whose camp they visited on the Nah-.cheez. His offer was refused by Colonel 1Wright and Shaw and his outfit moved on to the Columbia and eno-mped near the mouth of the Umatilla. An Indian brought word to Colonel Shaw that there was a sizeable gathering of Indians in the Grande Rondo Valley. Colonel Shaw deter!nined to attack this camp, not knowing whether these Indians were hostile or not. With his Indian as guide, he crossed the Blue Mountains, coming into the Grande Ronde Valley at the north end near the present location of 3ummerv.fle on the evening of July 16, 1856. Shaw had

between 180 arid 190 men provisioned for 10 days. On the morning of

July 17 Shaw marched south along the west edge of the valley toward the emigrant trail near the present 1oca.ion of La Grande. The volunteers sighted the Indian camp which was on the north side of the Grande Ronde River somewhat east of the present La Grande City Park. 1hen the Thdians saw the troops drawing up in battle formation preparing for attack, the squaws and children with the old men were sent out into the valley with saddle and packhorses while the young men retired into the trees along the river to await the troops. Colonel Shaws attacking force is said to have consisted of 150 men all mounted, while about 40 men were left to guard the pack animals arid supplies. The 150 men occupied the camp vacated by the Indians while an attempt was made by the Indians to discuss terms under a flag of truce. Shaw however, disregarded the flag of truce and ordered an attack. Shaw directed part of his force to move be tween the non-combatants and the main body of the Indians causing the Indians to also divide their forces for they feared the whites were planning to attack the squaws and children. A hard fight resulted, lasting from about eight o clock in the morning until three In the afternoon. The battle was mostly fought between small ‘oups of the enemy. The Indians finally made a stand at a ford of the river about midway between La Grande and Island City with the Indians on the south bank. The superior fire power of the volunteers enabled them to cross and route the Indians who then scattered in all directions, The

Indians had by their resistance gained time for the women and óhildren to gain 0safety The persuit of the volunteers was carried out for a considerable cistance, some oups going as far as 10 or mor 0m.iles FIve volunteers were killed arid several wounded, the Indians suffered a loss of thirty killed and probably ten mortally wounded. Most of the Indian losses were warriors, as the volunteers admitted of only a few wcnen or children killed.

Shaws men captured over 200 horses, 100 lbs. of powder and great stocks of calr2s 0roots venison, salmon and berries. They piled and burned an estimated 100 teepees. The sadest feature of this battle is that no one has ever shown that these Indians were aflied. with the hostiles against whom the regular troops were campaignIng in the Yakima Country. It seems now far more likely that this camp of Cayuse and Umatilas were encamped here in the Grande Ronde Valley to get as far away from the theater of war as posalbie for the protection of their women arid children. Shaw estimated the force of warriors at three hundred, which was probably high as most officers tended to exaggerate the numbers of the enemy to make the engagement reflect more credit to their men and to themselves. A village of 100 or more teepees would ordinarily accommodate no more than a total population of about C

of

treaty

two disaster of

a the

scale were ing It

run, type band inability quently this and the

here. engaged probably present,

500

great

1ez

opposing was

whites. thirds

the

poorly

from

people

was

hide

present of

is

In The

toward

This

Another

Colonel

Perce

they

in

Comparing

victory hostile

that denovtrated fighting against

the

to

taking

the that

as

Nez

the

to and

of

disciplined iric5

when

their

the sigied

seems

served

actual

urderstand all The

there

center in

the Perce more

fJ.

Siaw

seek factor

dent

whites.

tribes in the this

scalps. in

battle

out dDne

this

neighbors

Nz

from

in

the

of than are peaceable

fighting is

on

fighting,

whites. chiefs

of is

war.

tending their

camp,

1855.

Perce 1856

band that to

bath

press

and

only volunteers no an

the

the of 100

At

be

The

weil

assemblage

were

which leading Therefor, the that with

day

official superiority

sides.

and

favored one

Indians one fighting

credited in

volunteers of to

status

in

Grande known

in small

p1aci more former time, the Oregon

known indicate

the

would

the

from

them

When

ail Nez

with and

reports

Yakima

men this with

exaple to

fighting

groups,

William

Ronde

in

examples, Grande

allies

and hardly killing

over

were

out

Percs organize in to

William

the

the

the could

battle

doing

Washington

an

treat

War,

war.

very

the to

uncomfortable

wuen

peaceful of the Ronde.

good

warriros

in ail Craig have came

have

women have

regulars.

the his

it

which

small

order Craig them nearly volunteers the

out

fighters

would

nearest been

and

white

best been been

states,

tribes

and

In

war

nature nearly as

detachments was

to

joined

or

children

the

tipped the

human actively not

the to

children

keep

peoples against

chiefs

hailed position to

in

about hit

keep

for

fre case

brought

case seem of

the

the

join

the beings.

the

war

this

i03

and

who

if

as Washington vo1urteers as a Lieutenant Colonel, one troop of cavalry serving under Governor Stevens was composed entirely of Nez Perce volunteers, among whom was Old Chief Joseph and a contingent of his warriors. The Nez Perce also served as scouts for the various white troops. It is recorded that there were at least 70 of these Nez Perce scouts. These Nez Perce furnlohed their own horses and subsisted them... selves for which they were never reimbu.rsed, War flared fiercely again in 1858. During the campaigns of that year the Noz Perce chiefs were able to prevent ail but scattered individ’tials frcn jo5.n3.ng the hostils and the Nez Perce saved Colonel Steptoe’s coirt.and fcm complete annihilation. Steptoe’s official report states, “witht the assistance of Timothy’s Nez Perce it would have been utterly iiipossib1e for us to cross (The Snake River) either going or rotuning C’nief Lawyer met the retreating Steptoe with 200 well ared warriors and tried to get the troops to rally and return with him to battle the confederated tribes who had delt Steptoe a d1sastrDus defeat near Steptoe Butte in the Palouse hills of Eastern Wathington. However, Steptoe’s troops were in no condition to resume hostilities having abandoned much of their arms and equipment and being burd.Dned with many wounded. Later that surier Colonel Wright brought the war to a successful conclas:ion, Old Josep’i triei to get some of the buildings and other civilizing provisions provided for the Treaty of 1855 to be placed in the Waiowa Area. The Indian Agents, however, preferred to keep all the schools, saNmills, etc., at one place, namely Lapwai. They worked constantly to get as many of the Nez Perce as possible to live

could

the

paying

night

Idaho,

Timothy’s

village

having

were

cry

that

closed

the

the

ing

prospectors

back

were

gold.

land

all

The

civilized

nearby.

earn

whites

and

reservation

prospectors

began,

hatched

worked

whites;

this

have

Jane

to

all

anxious

per

.Lfter

their

where

quantities.

been

A.

to

The

on

that

the

parties

eighteen

J.

famil*.

area

prospecting

been

by

In

defied

the

occupation

troops

Ind5ans

turred

to

living

it

wilo

the

Clearw3ter

Cain

to

agents,

it

this

going

to

Snake,

must

confine

became

called

nn:st

secure

accorcirig

that

plaiznd

propactors

explore

the

at was

they

would

yoar

back

by

off

knew

be

th

misiionaries,

ba

h

conventions

Indian

with

stock

known

a

Here

the

entrance

were

the

there

on

River

old

on

extremely

would

traitor

be

an

reservations

this

the

to

a

which

every

most

Indians

armed

sent

daughter

one

raising,

definately

that

long

discovered

mountains

Agent

developed

the

near

and

call

of

into

desirable

to

to

known

the

the

terms

trip

of

policed

invasion,

rich

the

the at

to

politicians,

her

in

assist

both

Jane

the

which

Nez

Nez

boundaries.

Lapwai

a

with

troops

present

party

trail

in

in

a against

own

of

gold

20

reservation.

Perce

Perce

feeling

her

the

and

the

gold.

of

the

them,.

acre

was

people,

a

thinking

the

made

in

camped

all

to

group

own

main

reservation

she

treaty.

location

were

of

Reservation

a1liing

1860.

piece

government

keep

first

prospecting

So,

among

people

A.

guided

an

course

This

trails

and

of

near

thoroughly

J,

that

impression

many

the

of

men.

evening Many

One

the

her

Cain

angered

of

the

and.

them

cultivated

Timothy’s

the

whites

once

turning

to

schemes

Oro

officials,

party

was

prospectors

conduct

prospectors

Indians

She convinced

those

search

one

territ..

one

fight

in

Fino,

familiar.

the

on

105

off

of

for to C fficia1s both to that, their would would of defiance papers settle to and taken the town Government were servation. miners. their writers. did cized try blankets prevent burned. the whites, merit ‘“the In on readers be be interested When and to The lands. became The by in Nez the Indian most distributed of of arrive the Their her occupied only foiloring Nez censor, the such was infected all the Perce lands Villages spring and effct.ive. reswvation, people, indignant. The Perce Nez prbpety. powerless good treaty great illegal Indian at only de2aor1rtrate and £eiced miners but Perce by some of years Indian with to took nd in fear and whites, the 1863 terms. so Service. the actions, sort the d3rtLanded arid towns to These no seemed smallpox. has A far citizens; Nez brought was without a is Indians Lewiston prevent mountain action cultivated of council that been as or Perce a that A sprung editorials solution dead to Boise known the The the that many such regard considered be White in against in livestock them He paper United editors was Indians Indian.” areas. up, harmless hi editor she the particular an of guaranteed by of cailed from farmers to Lewiston the reflect neighborhood influx was advised treaty Nez the States the the of improvements asked a was whites overrunning never Perce at party heroine some problems to Indian would of terms the appropriated the the that was the meet became for miners seriously of were really of badgered tiie, sentiment whites in where come by a title such be the at successful facing shipment torn the forcëably a the so inforced Lapwai that Idaho large believed as and blankets they and to midst re criti.. dawn by they white job the seize of in names for

fifty—one duced had

enough the recognized only

the

leaving

solemn Nez Lawyer opposition. and.Old

Indians necessary terms council ioners that in

of of

the

the the

all

now

reservation

commissioners

Perce

a

time

were

twenty At

They

Trouble

of

to

meeting

small

leading

arranged

size Nez

Civil

the withdrawn

each

were

where

Joseph,

the

the

names.

have

did

desired and

not

quickly this

Perce

Nez

of

five treaty reservation

band When

War divided

treaty

was the

they

the

their

on

of

the

the

Perce?

being

breaking

Eagle

for

treaty,

and

Were

the

from or

did

the independent.

only

it

anticipated to

solution

signed

were

reservation,

group

of

six some

more

names

became

do. into no

Treaty

relinquished.

not

chiefs

from

these

1855 the

sensible

Was

paraded

companies troops

remained up

willing

which

sort

Nez

report a

treaty

However,

Nez on

the

decided

the

there treaty

of

clear

chiefs

of

they

that Perces

at

of

Perce

the

Light

it

could

treaty

1855,

The

thing

and

it.

to the and

face

were

for

disolved that

of

seems

treaty. with

Nez

on

since

and

United

drilled

sign

Nation,

of

and

volunteers anti—treaty be

council

bringing

the

that was

saving

of

58

Perce neither

Lawyers

sub—chiefs

the

that

spared

Big for

they

1863

chiefs Nez

to

the

they States

Over

Lawyer

during

so

and

Thunder the

be

action and the

Perce,

could

a

the

Nez

side to

band

the

could

a to

deliberate who

half

it

the

small functions,

Indian

Government

drastic

enforce

total qualified

faction

Perce

be

the

cosissioners

would

is

wa

not

to were

three

leading

treaty

of

do.

present

believed

reservation,

meeting.

sign,

deemed

Service inforce

these

signers

Nation,

important

yield,

reduction

the

by

fourths

At

fraud,

with

coimniss—

to

never

the

whose

which

a

at terms

chiefs

to

sign that

the

at

to

the

The the

in

be

of Book, were

massacre

by of the

with

in Christianity.

efforts and

fighting

of renounced

people

sured transactions,

be Service.

his

perpetuated have

since

wiping the

1848

teaching

free

guilty

retired

band

innocent.

ail

plagued

Now

Joseph

After

New

Old Most

He that

New

could

who

to

agents

under

men.

along

was

never

he

out

the Testament

Joseph

Testament.

ones.

retain

fateful Nez

were

to his

nearly

by

emphasized

and

never

the signing

the

white

for

an

It

his

side

to waivered

Perce a

people

determined Timothy

probably

relationship

scheming

was

Joseph

American Indians

this

make

it

beloved

thirty

expect

day.

the mans

that

was

now

only

Joseph

He

land

to

their

his

white

frcn

had

had

religion

the

at

hold

with

convinced

years learn

realized

justice for

dishonotable

flag

Wailowa.

decision

to

as

this

who met

been

Reverend

own

this

soldiers,

themselves. to

of

little

avenge

long

and

the

as

the

had

time

deals the

the

the

and

from

decision

a

the

the

carrying

ways as

by

troops braved

Here

staunch

opinion

whites

regard

the

first

the

Spalding

that

he

the

full

or

coim!lissiont

tearing

troops

he

of

Massacre

he white

could

treaties

made

whites,

he,

That

as

at

the

Nez

the

implications arid

his

for

devoted

friend

that

long

that

the

had

convinced

up

angry

Perce white and

mans the

the

the

treasured

the

Lawyer

the

scene of

with

tore given

as

the

to

final

of

other These

Nez

punishment

his ways.

white

the

man, converts

he

cherished

live

the

Nez

up

the

Perce

of

time

him

believed that

of

lived.

Whitmans

break

bands

questions

copy

whites,

of

his

Perce

the

troops

at

the

Indian

and

and

his

ever

to

peace

trea

of

would

that 109

JOSEPH CHIEF OF THE NEZ PERCE It was in the year 1840, according to the white tsman reckoning, that a son was born in the lodge of Tu—eka-kas who is now known as Old Chief Joseph; a son who was destined to become a great chief

in his own right. For among the Nez Perce a man did not become a

chief simply because his father was one before him. He rose to a place of leadership only after he had earned the confidence of the tribe by his prowess and his wisdom in the council.

This boy would later become known as Young Joseph. He grew up like any other Nez Perce boy, which is to say that he practically lived on the back of a horse. He could ride at breakneck speed along the rocky slopes, controlling his horse without saddle or bridle. The Indians kept their promises faithfully, even though settlers and oattleraen trespassed upon their reservations, and for more than five years the Government failed to pay the promised money to those chiefs who had agreed to accept, But the final and complete breaking of the treaty came in 1861, when gold was discovered on the Indians’ lands at Crofino, in Idaho. In a few months ten thousand miners were stampeded into the area. The old chief was growing blind and feeble, and becoming ever more troubled as white settlers began crowding into his valley. It

had been the boast of the Nez Perce that they had never kiiled a white man. From the time of Lewis and Clark, whom they helped, they

had befriended the white man and had remained loyal when other tribes were on the war path. Tu—eka—kas ignored the treaty of 1863 but tried to avoid trouble with the settlers. Very skillfully he main tamed peace and remained in his valley to the end of his days. to have think son,” This is hard father young bitter which fully at of hunted even or in General only outclassed those tained

sign going be the great check.

When

4 their

country

task. Finally, Joseph, that if

In

he

of

braves, would heart—breaking driven and

few and

delay

his and opposition

a

his many Howard

your very

said,

influence

Tu-eka...kas

treaty

move

the

years

mother.”

eyes

The rounded by leadership

hot.headed The

then

holds now

arid out

a

country. soon

angry

time the in

“my

his

refused. governiont

sharp

whites on

more

selling

a

by notified the be

from great

body to

your this

and up people stalwart

limit

and the

in

lay

range1

spring days

and see

over and

were was

warriors his

spring

You

is

land. father’s resentful,

power

soldiers.

dying your

be

the

the

urged

Joseph to the kept

returning

accepted

a own

must

young

stealing of extended.

wide

the

around

white home. Great

of flood,

Indians

in

My

1877,

men,

his

did Joseph

body. stop

that reservation.

the

his

man,

son,

territory,

were

Very

people

Spirit man

as not, he

the

to

his

would United General

your lodge

he

on

never had

a to His agreed

my

will

Never

becoming

sadly,

council

leader. lands

must that

their

give

at

mother

ears Chief.

already

be

stock

he

States

be

forget

Howard

and peace.

sell move to they dangerous

sent

up and

arid

tireless

whenever

all

fire

would move. difficult the

earth,

He

his

When

the

his risen were within Army.

against

for

around my

became

faced

Snake

AU

Joseph

lands

dying bones

horses,

have

Joseph. I

He hopelessly

to

ponies

you and

to

through

am

thirty

He

you.

a

much knew, to River, impatient

cross.

a

peace

main to

my

words. are gone,

of very

asked

place

hold

no

arid

be

searched

spirit “My your

asked They

days

his

one

the

my

“I fight.

fortifications.

tific

no

was

and

the

the

committed birds

a

were

thoroughly

and

oecame

two

live would

Wallowa

With

of

the

hope

young

good

scalps,

people.w

ear

skill

one

warpath

commanding

the

the

According

other

In

skill, hung

country

After

forever

young

Thus

heavy

of

that

prove

I

food

of

a

men

spite

Imnaha,

squaws

wanted

Valley,

of

very

the

a

let

on.

the

Nez

began

dried

with

crossing

no rnoi

series

to

hearts

to

using

the

far

from

poles

Great

in

of

most

captive

busy

to

general

Perce

more

kill

carry

fell

raided

to

bringing

Joseph

Indians

more

more

the

the

and

Joseph 2 s

the

General

the

advance

of

leare

they

to

place.

extraordInary

Spirit

groans

and

to

the

history

Chiefs,

eipc

the

meat

on

plundering

brutal

eventful

women timbered

dry

of

the

himself

work

destroy

struck

the

Snake

long

a

in

he

William

the

migration

pleas

would

and

in

Chief

of

homes

clean

The

what

march,

go White

cutting

said,

murders.

of

the

United

wounded

procession

rear

River,

than

their

in

slopes

free,

men

the

and

the

keep

and.

above,

trail. 1 ’

of

anma1s

smoke

Indian

T.

later

won

Bird

guards,

brought

American

any

of

several

white

council

It

the

States

Sherman,

killing.

camp

a

and

Joseph’s

men

of

universal

Tuhul—hut—sut

the

was

long

of

and

man

and

years

meat

wars

moved

they

the

fought

and

And

for

settlers

the

Nez

called

skirmish

in Tu—hul-hut-sut.

Army,

that

could

isolated

for

time,

frontier,

mountains

into

on

who

women

the

on

could,

said,

camp-fires.

freshly

Band

Perce

off

peace

with

praise;

record.

all

another

the

at

foresee

last

and

“jerked”

long

toward

after

will

joined

lines,

“I

that people

-

settlers

but

almost

Nez

also

was

some

killed

a

time

to

did

strips,

they

journey

ever leaving

occasion;

I

The

Perce

time

and

the

the

therefore

those

went

began

of meat.

When

not

and

will

ii

scien.

The

took

courage

cattle would

White..

and

Snake.

breaks

go

was

the

which

allow

field

war

on

in

camp

of

that

be

many.

to to

C

which

command

to

troops

their

border.

the

Union

at

and

were

fought

Alaat

to

hostile

plains

Idaho wa

failed

back

men

children.

fighting

find

the

either

Bear

non-combatants.

General

Joseph

were

orer

The

it

Every

continually

camp

armies

or

There

and

to

close

of

savag31y

the

The

of

by

was

Here maekfeet

Paw

hung

United

Montanan

1000

accompanied

retreat

the

reached

assist

for

the

only

mile

Indian

Crows

and

Many

were

decided

Howard, Mountains

-

of

they

to

troops,

Yellowstone.

4

people 0

a

his

a the

States

of

days

professional

the

infants

never

making

appering

them

failed

small

through

viilage

the

and

were

then

retreat

people

Civil

to

with

saddlehorn

until

by

but

Bear

to

or

of

troops

more

make

cut margin.

south

They

little

their

rode

their

allow

a

contact

Montana

War

Idaho,

held

stiil

came

was

in

Paws

General

small

off

than

another

Th

tried

to

was

were

soldier in

the

friends

families,

or

a

them

by

a

to fraught

of

under

four

Yellowstone

Their

Wyoming

cradle

250

conference

bodyguard,

the

runabout

only

the

no

path

Colonel

to

the

t.heir

led

Howard

demand

to

warriors

distinction

days

friendly

reach

and

sixth

and

siege.

route

30

end

by

with

of

settle

hoards

mothers

old

and

miles

graduate

General

the

refused

ay

after

Miles

caught

of

for

ranking sanctuary

with

danger.

pushed

Park

led

men

Nontana.

their

with

redmen,

He

was

in

Crows

strapped

Joseph’s

from

the

who

over

saddles. and

between

did

Colonel

their

up

and

0.

to

taken

of

Joseph

ahead

bloody

general

battle whom

with

laid

the

omen

0.

help 0

Fresh

not

north

Lob

West

in

the

These

territory.

to

Howard,

surrender.

to

Canada

Canadian

combatants

Miles

assume

they

them.

of

seige

on

troops

Pass

their

In

trail

Point.

troops

avoid

started, onto

wves

of

his

his

fighting

all

expected

the

in

from

and

to

who

the

mothers

in historic

il2

the

t.here and 113 The messengers selected were two Nez Perce scouts who had been with Howard since the start of the campaign — Old George and Captain 4John Both of them knew Joseph; they met with the chief and his council, where Miles’ demand was discussed at great length. Finally the

deision was made — Joseph wàuld surrender on condition that his people be returned to the Nez Perce reservation in Idaho. Otherwise he would fight to the deaths Colonel Miles accepted this condition. Here at last was the end of the trail, within thirty miles of sanctuary. After three months of grief, anxiety and hardship; after 1500 miles of wilderness trail; after five pitched battles and many lesser engagements with more than 2000 regular troops of the United States Army after repeatedly confusing and outwitting his exper ienced opponents; Joseph the amateur general, the leader of great

heart, the champion of liberty for his people, must now lay down his arms.

To Captain John, who had witnessed the soul-searching of the great chief in his last council, Joseph gave this message: “Tell

General Howard,” he said, “that I know his heart. What he told me before I have in my heart, I am tired of fighting. Our chiefs are killed. Looking Glass is dead. Tu.hul-hut-sut is dead. The old men are all dead. it is the young men who say yes or no.” (Meaning that only the young men remain there to vote in the council.) “He who lead the young men is dead. It is cold and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead.” Then raising his arm toward the sky, he continued; “Hear me, my chief; I am tired; my heart is. sick and sad. From where the aim now stands I will fight no more forever.” 114 In 1879, while on a trip to Washington, D.C., to see “the Great white Father,” Chief Joseph gave a message to the American people. In

it he told his own story. It is in the closing words of this address that the magnificence of his oratory i revealed: ‘Let me be a free nan—free to travel, free to stop, free to work,

free to trade, where I chçose; free to choose my own teachers, free

to follow the religion of my fathers, free to think and talk and act

for myself — and I will obey every law, or submit to the pena1ty.’ 1Whenever the white men treat the Indian as they treat each other, then we‘ shall have no more wars. We shall be all alike - sons of one father and mother, with one sky above us and one country around us, and one government for all. Then the Great Spirit Chief who rules above, will smile upon this land, and send rain to wash out the bloody spots made by brothers hands upon the face of the earth.” “For this time the Indian race is waiting and praying. I hope that no more groans of wounded men and women will ever go to the ear of the Great Spirit above, and that all people may be one people.” The following editorial appeared in the Wallowa County Chieftain on September 1, 1949; “On our return from Canada recently, we stopped at Nespelen, Washington, and enquired at a filling station for direc tions to the grave of Young Chief Joseph, famed and honored leader of

the Nez Perce Indians here. We followed his directions to the edge of town, a small village, about the size of Lostine, and saw nothing.

Finally we noticed two or three stones in a patch of weeds, enclosed in an old wire fence, Going closer, we could see that it was a cemetery. Finding the gate in the rocks and weeds, we went inside. The enclosure contained an acre or two, all of which was covered with rocks and overgrown with weeds and showed no upkeep, whatever; It C “savages”, answered Joseph tried greatest owa by Joseph bearing erected that was “imposing” of so baron any stone he entirely “Our he “And to “The aU loved, had kind. was in the that extlain Indians.” and monuments. yomç there wanted grave over died 1905 shaft, the inscription burnt it an lie the son by in was chief of arid Indian in to the a hills, 1 9 0L 1 . the the country said, this because steal stone he The bones of Washington great replied. cemetery at “ weed—grown the Chief rest ‘Why three the perhaps about for.” of white Nez Chief Indians of is a Joeph” hundred and man sixty Perce the “But Chief Historical a men, We Joseph and foot there who didn’t graves, land.” why years with tribe, who Joseph miles desolate was square was were did called the say, one of Society with from that marked they buried only age.” and further of cemetery, but the no the the chase the five half and by we names here?” Indians beautiful monument natIons words the could that feet a Chief surrounded or dozen most We Chief high stating markings have us was Wall.... or ( 1846 the a horses trading blankets, snow seen of of Old standing and County, There prior bearing County, by There white Bonneville Bay Insofar result the Hansen establishment the settlers a for reached 11 No the Company Judge Who treaty was were to old man post is same many Oregon many evidence animals exchange as after the tells beads was Ferry, a convincing to store, compeiled E. made records Hudsons had s-’:ch route trappers was rela!,e yrs of earliest visit the V. the of and across them in a h 1 s several concluded of, has a Kuykendail of and first large a that house the FIRST the depth trinkets. Wallowa that go Hudson’s trip furs been Bay or died. to evidence had trapped settlements it the stone streams spring white the herd subsist old had from SETTLERS trading and down made for appears uncovered fixing line County, abandonment in IndIans been chimney remained Bay of supplies, for man 1873 that The of the visits along his, from upon horses, post 1834. Company beaver that to destroyed IN the in Indians Imnaha to Hudson’s but which who Historic WALLOiIA take Asotin of Asotin bark the there 1875 boundary on on Captain we consisting the of and had in Lost Snake the trading during up would peeled also may there this with the either old County County Bay that a residence CCENTY ground Prairie Glimpses be Bonneville distinct between and relate valley building trading indicate trappers the their lived from post one sure chiefly by in Grande (or winter so winter fire the in trees, on that before parents that in in Wallowa the long of recollection post. remained Wallowa the Lost caught was Wallowa the early Ronde Asotin of or British and this the that the date and and the gaudy vicinity decay. Prairie. and In County). returned Hudson’s days, Rivers

fur u6 as the after first County? of had

recently

County

retire

the

places

agriculture

tained

Missionary

vegetables

made

along

gardens

favored

about

Indian

keeper

tine

of post

light

the

it’s

and

Indians

goods

The

“These

use

“As

United

confirmation

Quoting

was

was_—-abandoned

“ihat

posts

Chieftain

to the

half

for

these

of

gardens

of

been

fol1c-ing

in

spots

there

of

the

from

granted these

river,

the

this

by

Spaiding,

these

a

as

bars

and

a

and

irrigation

States

gardens

brought

reservation mile

Kuykendall

thrilling

the

usual

at

Indians.

American

appears

located

irrigation

isolated

facts

trappers

dated

along

places

Troy,

for

Nez

of

is

It

below

possessions

were

in

it

to

this

quoted

aPpears

closing

Perce

it

October

the

probably

to

in

Shoemaker

on

and

possessions.”

the

is

light,

before

the

Later

further:

post

is

and

set

compelled

be

treaty,

growing

the

Grande

from

safe

fascinating

early

probable

Indians

from

mouth

retired

no

that

aside

would

business

3,

white

north

white

at

it

Reverend

not

to

record

1940.

an

Creek

Ronde

“some

days

the

appears

49

corn

Nez

of

assume

for

to

bet”

later

prior

article

men

side

that

to

men

degrees

Rattlesnake

Hudson’s

Perce

relinquish

learned

of

or

and

and

them.”

mention

River

document,

British

“From

filed

Spaldirig.”

came

of

trading

than

this

that

to

tradition

that

other

other

appearing

Indians

the

the

north

were

to

old

on

their

1850,

Lost

the

Bay

A.

should

possessions.

Grande

coming

vegetables.”

the

places

these Creek

their

a

posts

records

C.

favorite

Indians

latitude.

Company diary

Prairie

of

maintained

lessons

as

Smith

country,

in

be

the

Ronde

and

rights

tracts

and

a

of

on

the

made

of

reasonable

which

who withdrew

the

was

growing

low

on

wintering

the

trading

the

in

Wallowa

River

In

After

and

other

and

of

and

main

the

benches

removal

117

have

the

the of 118

first man to take up residence in Wailowa County and that this coming C dates from 1858. He was born in 1831 and went to California in the gold rush in 1852, and drifted to the Snake River district in the neighborhood of the present town of Huntington, and rode north over the Indian trails to Imnaha Canyon.” “He spent the winter near the present bridget leaving in the spring. After going through part of the Civil War, he returned to the far west in 1862 and located at Cove, and in the fall of 1868 he again hunted up the canyon to which he had taken a ‘eat fancy. He built the stone fences which are still seen across narrows of the canyon to shut in some range for his horses, but did not establish a permanent residence. However, he kept control of the place until he

sold his location to A. 13. Findley who homesteaded land which includes

the present Lester Robinscn residence. Mr. Findley sold to Joseph and Robert Hays who remained on the ranch two years and then sold to L. C. Johnson. The next orner was Fred Falconer who sold to Robinson.” 1Mr. Smith left his mark in the canyon in the stone fences which can still be seen. One of these gave a name to Fence Creek. He also gave the name to Deer Creek, a stream flawing into the Imnaha and that name also has stuck. There are thousands of Deer Creeks in Oregon today, but possibly the stream in Imnaha Canyon was the first of the lot.”

“Mr. Smith was one of the first white men to take up residence in the state outside the Willamette Valley, and Imnaha ranks as the top of the list of places in early settlement.”

“The statements concerning Mr. Smith may be found in the records of hearing held to establish grazing rights after the Wallowa National

Forest was established. He told a friend of his early advent.ures in L [ [ p Ii r r r

Mr.

the well

of ably which

opinion, examined

for various lichens Fence

some fences MB.

remaining Smith Imnaha to toll the this in

supplied accepted

the

the raising

Smith.

Nez

a

canyon

prior

over

An

of

It road Reese part

‘After “Mr.

very the

Creek. actually

fences

were

and

new

Fez-ce

on them species examination has

based these

much

by

two fence

life,”

up

Smith of

to

long

the

built horses.’ extended town

and

built become he

the

in

the the

for

the hundred can

of

lichens

on

rocks

his

claimed sold

period

is of to

did Government of

Wallowa

hill

a

canyon.”

horse

now these coming

by

lichens

the constructed

an Enterprise toll

story

of the his

not

by

Mr.

years

only

accepted

still

and of

rims,

to

control

observations,

one

ends bridge plant location

of

was Valley Smith.

this

time.

have

be will

consequently

s

the

who

old.

kncwi

particularly

of

presented

surmised

where

undisputed

any

have

built

story

over

white

in

has prove

with

some

Mr.

fence However,

he

The

as of

the

been

studied he moved

the

Melvin

them.

of that the

fruit. Smith

man

built

fences that

but

same

and

in studied

estimate Wallowa

them

resting

proof

orchards

to

the

the

I out the

it nearly

a Mountain.

manner

by

Burk the

He

can

were,

the

with

He study

may

one rock

of

testimony

the

probably

and

of

was

growth

River find

northwest.

that

and

in

the

be

all

which brush

at

early

that

Indians in

of

fences practiced

the

interested

that

the

the nowhere

canyon

the the

the

of Later

at

rate

they

used

piles same

which

in

grazing

writer

the mouth

Minam

writers

they

fence

growth

on

consider

later

he of

and

The

position rocks served

that

the the law

was

to

the

served moved

of

and only

have with

is

of

purpo.

tie his years of

Mr.

of

a 120 The next record of a white man visiting the Wallowa Valley is contained in the notes of William H. Odeil, United States deputy surveyor, who ran the base line for the government in the summer of 1866. In hi notes which he filed with his survey, and which were made a part of the first county records when the county was estab lished later, he wrote: ttThjs line passes through the beautiful

Wallowa Valley, beginning at the east side of range L42 The valley is about six miles wide and 40 long; it’s course northwest and south east. Narrow streams of clear, cold water put down from the high snow mountains just to the south, timber is to the south and west and along the banks of the streams. large part of the valley is well adapted to agriculture, while the low, grassy hills to the north and east furnish extensive range for stock. The fi;est of trout and salmon abound in the streams and the surrounding mountains give evidence of plenty of game.

“Here I found many Indians camped pon the bankst of the streams taking great quantities of fish while their large herds of horses quietly grazed upon luxuriant grasses. This valley should be surveyed as soon as practicable, for the wigwam of the savage will soon give way to the whites. Instead of the hunting and fishing grounds of the red man, the valley will teem with a thriving and busy population.” The survey ended on the hills south of Little Sheep Creek with this explanation in the field notes. “1 found it necessary to stop here for the reason that our provisions had given out.”

The base line survey was not extended eastward to Snake River until many years later. As a result of this survey arid the undoubted publicity that followed it, there were no doubt a good many men who came and looked at the Wallowa country. It was known as a stocknians paradise, but tEE 121 ‘there were plenty such in Eastern Oregon at that time, not secluded as was the Wallowa. On account of its inaccessibilitr the Wallowa [ country remained in the undisputed possession of the Nez Perce until [ about a decade later. r As the seventies arrirsd, the pasturage in and around the Grande Ronde Valley began to be more crowded and men began to look elsewhere [ for that dream of stockinen, “free and unlimited range.” Several visited the Wailowa Valley. Among those who examined the Wallowa country in search of range was James Tulley, who came in l87lo When r he returned to the Grande Ronde he gave such a glowing account of his discoveries that his brother, Erasmus, was determined to join hirti early the next spring in an effort to drive their three hundred head of cattle and horses over the mountains and into the Wallowa Valley. At that time there was of course no road whatever between the Grande

Ronde Valley and Wailowa Valley. About the same time James A. Master— L son also came in with stock. These three pioneer settlers formed the [1 entering wedge for white occupants of the Wallowa. These first pioneers crossed the WaJ.lowa River about three quarters of a mile [ below the highway crossing of the Wallowa River at Minam and ascended Smith Mountain at the point of Crossing. L James Tulley took a ranch about three miles south arid a mile and r a half east of the present town of Wallowa, at the confluence of the Lostine and Wallowa Rivers. Erasmus took land between James Tuileyts [ place and the town of Wallowa. Nasterson took a claim nearby. These men say that to the best of their knowledge they were the first per L manent settlers in the valley. They built a cabin on James Tulleyts place and began cutting wild hay with a mowing machine brought in from the Grande Ronde. They did not cultivate the soil, but there was no need insGfar as pitting up hay was concerned, wild hay was thick and L 122 heavy on the natural meadows and they were limited as to the amount

stored for winter only by their ability to do the necessary work in... volved. The Indians offered no resistance to their operations, but ex pressed dispiaasue at ther taking possession of the’land. It is indeed not surprising that the Indians were displeased, as James Thiley had either by accident or design settled on or very near to Old Chief 7Joseph s favorite summer camping ground at the confluence of the Lostine and Wallowa Riiers. These men were legally entitled to take land in this area at that time as a result of the Nez Perce Treaty of 1863, which of course

Old Chief Joseph never recognized. However, the men who came to the valley between June 16, 1873 and June 10, 1875 were trespassers upon the Wallowa reservation, unless they settled south of Enterprise or west of the Lostine and Wallowa Rivers 123

C CHINESE MASSACRE1887

Perhaps the blackest spot that appears on the generally honorable record of the citizens of Wallowa county was the cold-blooded massacre

of thirty—one Chinese miners on Snake River near the mouth of Deep

Creek on or about May 25, 1887. The following article appeared as a feature in the Oregon Journal in the summer of 1938.

‘Case is Closednl By Bob Sincock

Long range rifles cracked out above the din of the roaring Snake,

poured a stream of lead into the mining camp below. Thirty Chinese workers fell dead. The last, wounded, ran to a small skiff arid pushed off down the river. Before he could escape the band of horse thieves rolled boulders off the cliffs and killed him. They wrecked the camp, hacked the bodies of their victins with axes and threw them into the water.

Among the bloodiest slaughters of the Old West, the Wallowa County, Oregon ma5sacre went on the books as closed without justice. Three of the seven murderers, jailed for horse stealing, escaped from their chicken coop cell, and the gang scattered. The event attained international importance, closed only when the United States paid $276,610.75 indemnities to the Imperial Chinese

government. Although the massacre took place a half century ago, on or about May 25, 1887, the amount given the Oriental homeland was not made known until recently when Secretary of State Cordell Hull released the essence of the affair. Secretary Hull said the government paid more than a quarter miilion dollars “out of humane consideration and with no reference tc the question of liability for loss of Chinese life in the Northwest.” L [ [ L

L L p Li Ii II [ [1

[ r

[

r Robert against matter in lurid state’s any to as the of was that dust, dicate into amount Daily act. the trechery J. every Wallowa a cooperate, Idaho. K. mining of killed Chinese Frank Pressure ford several Cattlemen one As The details but Vincent, It victim McMillan, Journal, away. the but to the witnesses. chronicled pocket was wholesale I to a contemporaneous Vaughn, County, gang site, little in have rainaining small Consul members cross reported was An was but of a who lust United who when poker ever Carl indictment the at shot 3 the used work sum under center their knew by Genera], butchery ‘talked” the for crime. were one heard Hughes six kiuing because game the the States by had cut confluence the gold bond, stolen of of the known Northeastern early culprits there, been up at tell was the gang “was and the Eventually failed was commissioner Ben ringleaders of the and San first filed animals as Walla ringleaders done. of Hiram investigation, the attach first the Evans, and diggings Francisco. stripped of horse obtained on to testified Chinese most in the Walla the this Hayward. prevent Whatever believed Oregon several to more J. circuit thieves to Snake who gold cold—blooded, hideouts and coast, B. fled still $5000 (Washington and get significance residents examined before Carifield, disclosure was thrown and of and the the The court threats a and to visible to and the few never gave Imnaha in motive California. sum, latter frequently $10,000 the in I in bandits the of the pare territory) am cowardly the Omer to recovered. the it March, grand of the to today, Rivers, Territory a for case, three went “rub whole even the the river,” in ‘49er LeRue, group turned the 124 jury used gold 1888, out” ‘rote He fact in Lewiston

whites

There missing bedding, arrived to Downstream and

terrified mining. wilderness were

times against the to Indians, the ringleaders, parties River

of group

Lewiston

the the

the

last

Pacific

for

were Bodies

They

harassed

A massacre.

From of

and

upper

Snake

at

fluvial countrymen,

them few

of

Nez

clothing

About

a frontier a 31

to

no

left Indians is a

of 0ctobe cowboy

short Chinese

where

miles

began

Coast,

Perce of

few

find waters. were became

about

white

that

the

June

invaders

the

the

ore

miles

time

the and

the mining

above

tributary or out operations

News. passed the

120 miners

and

victims

men with

rockers

vicinity

8

at

1886

wandering

tents

crime

the

settlement prisoners

In

of

they

Chinese

miles times

even

mining

the

of

two

those the

town.

along

upper went

through

their

were

were was

ruined. found

party

in Snake

holes

immediately

intense. in

south state

were

in white

up

days frohtier

the reported.

but

camp an Settlements

found

scattered destroyed

hunting

the

on

to theColumbia the

of

chopped

untamed and

of

murdered trail

the

Chinese

The the

visited prospector

31,

search

vicinity,

Lewiston,

spring

at

were

Troublesome

villages

former

and

Chinese shore

another grounds.

intervals

close

and

in

and

“The

region

were were

never

for

by

paddled

the

of

the

river

burned,

a

no

trio,

whites

biat by,11

conclusion

were

the

Idaho gold.

boat

fled

becoming

lower the

group few

bottom.

one taken

on

Indians

for

frequently

to

foilowing

reported

their

regarded Americans’ the the

and

used

from

there.

Territory,

tools

or

This the

one

of

some

for

Oregon

occasional only

Indians.

numerous

Chinese

by the batteaus

to upper

and also

particular the

years,

broken

be year

their the

as visitors Blankets,

both was

scene.

125

Snake

feeling side

some

the

then

were

on 126 floating in the Snake as far as Panawawa, 160 miles from the massacre site. All had been similarly mutilated and stripped of clothing, shot in the back or breast and chopped or decapitated. chinese at L±ton posted $1000 for apprehension of the murderers. Their consul general at San Francisco soon bolstered the fund with

government funds and asked the Sam up Company, operating in the North west, to look after the cases The company hired United States Commissioner Vincent and the investigation began. The incident became of real international importance when the Chinese minister, Chang Yen Hoon, vigorously protested to Secretary of State Bayard: “As the character of this case, wherein 10 (before the actual number was known) lives were murdered and their bodies mutil ated in a most shocking manner and thrown away, as will be seen by

Commissioner Vincent’s report, differs greatly from a common case of homicide, it is feared other wicked persons may, from their hatred of the Chinese, follow the examples of the murderers if not arrested and punished, which will affect the interest and safety of the Chinese residents there and elsewhere in the United States.” High water in the upper Snake at first made it impossible to find out what had been done, but Vincent shadowed camps in the nearby mountainous region and eliminated the possibility of Indian attack where he traced some of the miners provisions to white men. For several days he doggedly pursued a cowboy who was known to have visited the ill—fated mining site and who had told some “curious stories” about the matter. In the vicinity where 20 or 30 outlaws and Vincent was watched closely. Reports of the slaughter drifted to neighboring communities. When the- gang reiurned tc Enterprise, Wallowa County seat, and nearby — 127 t Joseph, several were jailed for stealing horses. C Feeling against them became intense. Eventually they dared threats of their leaders and turned states evidence, MoMillan and [ Vaughn claimed to have been eye witnesses to the whole affair, and Maywar’d and Hughes said they remained at a nearby cabin, The late [ George Craig of Enterprise, pioneer stock rancher, recently told of r the hearing; “They had gone to a cabin I maintained about a half mile below where the Chinese were, and which I used in winter time only in [ connection with my cattle enterprise. Two of the seven were sent up stream to stand guard, another downstream. One was left at my cabin to prepare a meal while the others proceeded with the assassinations, One held the horses and witnessed the spectacle as his companions took positions on the hillsides and poured lead into the group-” r One of the ringleaders, in the county jail, immediately escaped. During his first night as a prisoner he inveigled Sheriff Humphreys [ to take him to the jail’s outhouse. There the bandit found a revolver awaiting him and disarmed the officer. He fled to Wyoming, leaving C his wife and family. r His companions? break was equally spectacular. Joseph, then a ram-shackled mountain village, without better facilities, had lodged [ the prisoners in a chicken coop, from which they easily fled. One was killed in California, as noted, and another went to Kansas, served a [ term in prison there on another charge, and returned to the Northwest to become a blacksmith for the rest of his life. L The outcome was accurately foretold by the Wallowa Signal nearly a year after the crime, when it reported that while the grand jury had L considered the case and several had confessed, all but two of the seven had by that time eeaped- from the eountry and Itjt doubtful [ is if any of the murder,- will eyer be brought to justice.” L Today, the law regards the Snake River massacre a close incident. of south area

growth. under in either 1902, by mercial and Some

wholly

having March lands public from domain for how large

Wallowa

the

1903

public

the

other

the

included On

of Certain

time

About

A

of

May

the

3,

for

area

Wallowa

suitable public

or

lands lands

step

May

and these

limits

value

Wallowa

National

a

1891,

proclamation, various 27, purposes.”

in to

action

line

1900

of

6,

on

by

lands part

time,

in of

the

lands 1903,

or

land the

Forest August

1905

thereof.”

entitled,

step

approximately

for

T)Iallowa

County the Federal

HOW

not,

under

Forest

mountain

alienation

covered Imnaha

in bearing

set

were

President

agriculture August

Wallowa

THE account

Reserve

Wallowa 17,

as

“That

apart Section

citizens

declare

County land

WALLOWA arid

public

then

and

“An

1904.

with

area

3,

forest,

the National

the

of

laws,

and Act

examiners Snake

due which

County T. 1903, released

timber with

24

the

south

or the reservations,

President

thwarted

NATIONAL

story

Roosevelt

These

reserve,

to

east

of

by

not

River

in

legal

contained

August

establishment repeal

a

were

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Forest.

and

proclamations

or

any

view of

were of

covered from

began

undergrowth,

Act this

proclamations

country

an

FOREST

Wallowa west

withdrawn

part

in of

proclaimed

25,

timber-culture

toward

lands

the

attempt

any to the

of

747,200

and

attempted

of with

1903

of

above

Congress look

GREW

United

State

from

Lake the

then

the of

the

classifying

timber

dated,

and

from

to

over such

Wallowa

acres. proclamations

whether the President

public

the

to

considered

or

eliminate creating

May raid

States

approved

public

Snake

establishment

the reservations laws, Territory Forest

or

November

14,

lands on

Valley,

This under

public these

of

may,

River

1904. the

and the entry shall,

and a com -

lC L L L [ [ [ [ [ r [ [ [

L

øf Powder Reserve

very proclaimed Imnaha Imnaha Snake better Then, that

cluded. Mountains this forested Eden

date ment

Forest area

Springs central

and

and

the

east

north

It confusing On

the During Forest President countries

included On oi

River

on

names. River.

Forest

Forest

Reserve,

examinations

became

March and

Wallowa

the country, May

public

June boundaries

of

west

of

on

area included

Reserve

1905

the Chenimnus 12,

the

Reserve Reserve,

1, 10,

December

in

to Since

apparent

wa

T. of

land

an County,

1905 Grande

and 1907,

Nhich

as

general

Pine

the

1907 Roosevelt

the

also

area

were

of lying the

the

additional

extended

had

President

that general

Grande Valley,

which

T. 13, the some

Ronde Forest

is

men immediately

west in

containing

name

been

in the

Roosevelt

west

located

the

Waflowa

1906,

general

land

proclaimed took some

combined Rànde

Valley. of area

Wallowa

public

the

left

Reserve

lower

Indian

of

T.

land

the

was

cases December

charge

boundaries

west Tray,

north Roosevelt

River.

area out.

County.

731,650

proclaimed after

Thinaha

Poi.tder

principally

and

released

was

names

the

containing

unsuitable

the

of

were

Oregon

of

of

steps

Additional

well

the Chesnimnus

17,

Joseph

A River establishment the the River,

acres

linnaha

proclaimed

(approximately

further made,

considerable

establishment 1906

from

were known

the

in Forest

open

in

Creek.

220,320 and

situated

arid the

Telocaset

and

that establishment and

it

taken

the withdrawals

grassland

and

part and south

Weneha Reserves became that

Wenaha

February

the

lower

previously

Wallowa

applicable

On

of

acres.

to

acreage of

in

toward much 165,000

establish...

o the this

county,

change

River the

the apparent

were

Imnaha, hills

the

and

Wenaha

were

5,

Forest of

This Sled

same

Blue

of.

1907.

in arid acres.,

to

one the

of C

Troy, he lying

Forest The mation

adding boundaries either

stead Forest;

should be Supervisor’s public fore, administered of area 1906

Wallowa

fit created Forests.

a

added

the

known

larger

last

of

President On

of After

an

Oregon.

on

entry

on

was

timbered a

opening

be

use

summits the

and the September

public

Executive

and

the to Presidential

considerable

June as

a

This

area

issued

of people

a as

the

Wallowa

as on

separate the

in

east

Office

period

from

the 6,

the

In

about

of Calvin June

name of

the than forests,

Wallowa

or

Wallowa

1911,

this

by Wallowa side

27, November

Order name headquarters the

and

partially

meantime

10,

of

National being

of

Imnaha

President

20 National

Proclamation

acreage

Coolidge

1917 were

High

of

same

President the

a Forest

National

1911

sections

which directed

National

few

the

National

more

Wallowa President

22, Wallowa

not

it

proclamation

the

timbered,

issued Forest years,

Grande

of

Forest Reserve

were

was

Calvin 1917.

issued

at

actually in

Forest

Wm. Forest

scattered, in

that

Forest.

the

keeping

decided

affecting

Forest. National

Mountains

to

the

west

a

it

Ronde

ioodrow to

H.

Coolidge

a

proclamation be town the

implied.

to

Reserves

became

approdmately proclamation

be Chesniinnus Taft

to

he

used

of

the

with

Imnaha

to

River

known

be

of

also unappropriated

Forest

the

the

Wilson

proclaimed

could

change

Wallowa

Wallowa,

quite

and set

on

the

Minam

were

Therefore,

Wallowa

between opened

as

National

June

managed up

Creek

was

re-defining purpose

not

the

issued

the evident

on

and renamed

15

National

River

6,

where

be located.

to

Miriam

this

December Iiunaha

Rondowa

National

withheld

sections area

1928

properly

Forest

for

homestead public

a

on of

that

and

procla

the area National

to

National the the

July

in the

to

orest.

south 130

and home

9, There

the

should

whic

lands,

bene newly

from the

2,

l92 L [ r [ r — [ Li L {

F

within made, land plete

Forest, To names areas local along by trol. I

north bound stockmen apparently large boundaries

previously

of 1925.

entry,

attached

have

the

residents

the

along Because

In It

with public sooner as roster of

Volume acreage of

and

Hon.. decided

Since Wallowa

by

so

the

had

the

of

and.

Saddle

petitions

veterans

near

as and

the

began

withdrawn

since

1916.

Secretary

Wallowa

taken

petition

or of of these

sentiment of settlers

#1,

to

of

adjacent names

to

National

those later,

rumors the

the

Creek

eliminate

the

in the is

include

a

petitions

of

and

residents

1915 area

period an National

of

lower

1928

from

rough

of signers. had

from

the

to in

of

account

resolutions to

organizations

Forest.

Agriculture:

to

and

the

the the the

in proclamation public

first

the

a

the Imnaha

of

and

retain

Wallowa,

considerable the

are

resulted

Forest

boundaries of tine

cover effect

about

Wallowa

Snake

of

mountainous

These

World

Wallowa

the

of

No

entry

River

an

the and

expressed

historical Thtter

historical

changes 26

and Lower that

attempt

names Oregon,

submitting in

War

land the

years

by

by National

Country

Imnaha

of

National

numerous

possibly

area

President

only, an

Imnaha

confidence

submitting

under the

sections

constitute

have

to

to

Executive

themselves October

of

importance

source

WaJ.lowa

Rivers,

and detach Forest.

some

stabilize

petitions,

been

rough petitions and Forest

Forest

a

Coolidge.

Snake

have

change

isolated

these

material, Snake that made 21,

almost

or

Order

the National and

as

administration. This

Service

through River 1916

as eliminate the

the

in

River petitions, not mountainous residents

would being

and

to

of

movement

a

the boundarie

tracts

local

being the Count

the leather corn— May

con

the be

lga].

filed

a

8,

upon

users,

will

the

soil.

cover-crops,

and

erience

be

over

National

also

towns

cooperation Wailowa

rough

each

interests that

organizations

little

and

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in

the

best

over

these

Most

not

favor

to

residents

iost

have

The

and

their

or

within

These

organizations

They

and

result

has unrestrained

explanation

support

advantage,

National

grazing

those

Forest,

of

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lands, every

procured

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of

mountainous

of

have

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interests

the

people

of

thus

the

the

any

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should

dependent

are

of

the

and

section

signatures nearly

explained

means

and

and

people

county.

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change

opening

county

the

them

so

the

and

Commercial

also

mountainous

was

of

and

reports

the

are

are

closely

county

the

lands

as

hearty

the

that

that

of

necessary 1

now

which

know

promiscuous

is

boundaries

upon

in

are

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much

the

denuding

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to

towns

dependent

the

residing

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unregulated

along

are

before

that

way all

the

in

the

endorsement

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Club

situation

country,

stock

sections

best

to

touch

to

within

to

users,

attached

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these

Snake

for

organizations

of

be

the

the

which

few

eliminate

certain

use

position

per

in

upOn

The

the

with

changed

the

&ncluding

effect

lands

and

years

arid

Wallowa

lands

along

River

grazing

at

of

acre

welfare

of these

land

the

reason

petitions

any

the

the

near

conditions

and

their

were

to

as

of

the

are

these

and

welfare

and

that

of

people

and

grass

lands

County,

rapid

means

judge these

they

unregulated

of

those

of

that

land

now

Imnaha

its

these

position.

included

all

all

the

rivers

the

represent

which

are

now

fully

erosion

grass

over of

in

the

as

sections

to

above

who

seasons.

to

principal

hence

commercial

lands

River.

the

these

to

tributary,

do.

the

whom

commercial

within

inhabit

grazing,

in

grows

usec

and

what

referred

grazing

people

In

Commercial

the

of

given

the

either

sections

were

the

other

132

to

the

fact

Exp will

the

the

of to. would

is the these number

range should account drift be hampered bidding encroaching money stock.

returned

Rase, of lands, elimination system the petitions

in

individuals.

a

torn

the

and

danger

boundaries

A

timber

Aside

Since

result

reasons

that

fences,

in

a

topographical

remain of

Forest

of near

states

of The

the down

surveyor,

in to

building

other

drift

were

or will

lack

from

these

growth

upon trails

the

the

fencing

of

these

should

and

we

under erosion,

which

Service,

in

So

these presented remaining

potent

the

of be

econcinic

general fences

might

lands

their

lands

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it

who trails

rough

and

needed and care

an the

immediate

are

of

might

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letter lands

made

eliminate mention

reasons effort and telephone use

given public

have and have

relief

used control

and public

and

handling

where

and

readily

at

be

the

dispensed the

a from

supervision

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over to another

telephone trip

said

be

grazing

land.

map why

irregular the

domain, government they

of keep

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made

the

lines

built

administered he

signed

to

of

the of

will

timber these

some

now

National

saw

other.

with,

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the

season five

to

values

sentiment

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by show authority.

lands

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only

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rough

grazing stock

owners

value,

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drift on stock

of

that

impracticable

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gradually

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six

users

account with by In expended

is

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the from

Should

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the

constituted

of

among

the

of weeks

through person unanimous

fences the fact

this

mountainous

year,

livestock

the

land

Principal land

drifting under

other

water—shed

Forest

these

of the Frederick

section

a over

exception

deteriorate

who

would

on

there

lack and the

considerable

regulations classes people

boundary

in

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authority. these lands

favored

Service

would

and law

from

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of have

favor

lands

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are

value,

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the

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of

there

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to

on

that

the

a

of two county is made up of the two main deep canyons of the Snake River and Imnaha river--the Imnaha River being a tributary of the Snake--and into these two main canyons run smaller ones from both sides, resulting in a very broken, steep, rough and mountainous country. The altitude with... in a few miles varying from about 1600 feet to over 5000 above sea level. Most of the North slopes and bottoms of these canyons are covered

with a timber growth, while the South slopes and ridges produce only a growth of grass. These conditions are well shown in the accompanying

ptographs. Some of this timber growth will no doubt at some future date have a comiercIa1 value, but the principal present value is the protection of the water-shed and a conservation of the water supply, which at the same time prevents the erosion of the canyon sides into Snake River, finally reach the Columbia river, and there to imped navigation and augment the heavy expenditure already made by the government in keeping that river open to navigation. To so change the boundary of the ‘orest as to retain the timbered North slopes and bottom of canyons, and at the same time eliminate the South slopes and ridges, would result in such an irregular boundary as to be impracticable to administer the land within the Forest so as to accure the greatest benefit from its resources, and would be a source of constant trouble between the users of the Forest and the occupants of the open range.

In these few paragraphs we have attempted to summarize the several reasons why no change should be made in the present boundary of the Wallowa National Forest along the Snake and Imnaha rivers, and trust that due consideration will be given the expressions of the various people Pn41 organizations hereto attached. RespectfullyBy______Submitted. At their request. 135 C- The following people of the Joseph Coimnercial Club signed a petition: J. Ross Leslie, President S. Knapper [ Hugh Wilson, Secretary W. P. Nemby A. J. Richardson F. 0. McCully

[ Ed Berland P. E. Nays

Chas. Rice A. W. Schaupp [Z L. E. Caviness Albert Mount, N. I). 1 3. F. Egenspuger A. N. Rurnells Floyd U Wilkins F. H. Gaulke

[ A. K. Parker S. A. Sanndess

G. F. Reel W. C. Wilson J. Ii McCully J. A. Eggleson [ ‘d. G. 3eith T. 0. Marks T. H. Morelock A. P. ilson [ Peter Boudan J. L. Johnson F. C. Gowing Charles Crader

[ W. C. Blanc [

[

L

L

L C Julia Vernon Ivan Loweil Jimmie Prof. W. S. W’. J. Ameliz W. Thomas J. W. Benj. H. Mike Jerry A. C. W. Bess R. S. The W. N. F. 0. A. Lynn A. H. W. W. M. F. T. Simmons following A. Thomason Robinson H. Winniford Wirinjford Wjnnjford Scriber Warnock Spicer S. L. Mathny Hayes Warnock Vandeburgh Stevens Crader Spicer Tippett Lake1y Stubblefield Johnson Vandeburgh Faulconer 3. F. Titus Kiger Ashpaugh residents of Wallowa Mrs. Parthena Grace Mrs. Owen R. Arch Reba Ray Gertrude Grace James Frank E. Amy E. Mrs. Mattie G. H. Lela A. C. B. N. L. County H. Faulconer James R. E. 4arks Sriell W. Trumbell Harrison Raymond Wisenor Wilson Hayes Wilson Mesinger Whittier Campbell Snell Winniford Rice B. Robinson JJ. Warnock Wisenor Wilson were Winniford signers of a petition: 136 137

The following people signed another petition as residents of allowa

County on or near Snake River:

W. E. Hays

L. Stumbaugh

J. 13. Marks

H. 13. Maxwell

Edgar Ownbey

Alfred Hays

J. A. Shields I. L. Olinsted

J. A. Wilson

C. C. Boswell

A. F. Winniford

A. P. Wilson J. Ray Johnson

L. C. Johnson r. 138

The following residents of 1aflowa County signed a third petition: r T. S. Tippett G. W. H. D. Akins J. S. Kervile [ Leonard Jones Roy Toops r C. E. Young H. C. Nays L G., W. Tippett Alvin NcFetridge r N. C. A.kins John McCarty Wendell Burleigh J. N. Scholl [ Guy Russell Tom Atkins E. 9. Hinton Omar Stubblefield [ Sam Litch C. F. Graves Gl?nn Russeil T-Ienry [ W. P. Warnock [ Ivan Morrison Chas. C. Tippett p

E fl

L

U r 139

PUTTING THE rIALL0WAANDCHESNIYNUS C’ FOREST RESEaVES UNDERADNINISTRATION 1906

It t.dll be recalled that Howard K. O’Brien was appointed as ranger in charge of the Wallowa and Chesnimnus Forest Reserves effective

October 1, 1905. He was in effect the Supervisor of this vast area and on his shoulders was placed the responsibility of organizing the administration of the Reserves, training personnel to carry out the regulations and acquainting the forest users and the local public with the objectives and policies of the Forest Service. To assist him in this work he had a very small number of men, most of whom were consid erably above the average in native intelligence and in their abilities as stockmen and woodsmen. Most of them had a limited formal education,

but for the work that they had to do that was no particular handicap. The shortage of formal educational training was offset to a consider able extent by their enthusiasm for the work. More important perhaps

than anything else, was their sense of dedication to the cause of

protecting the resourses of the country. We believe that there has been no parallel in modern times to equal the feeling of the early day Forest Service men (and there were few women in the Service then), that they were working for the most important cause to which they could dedicate their lives. That they were fulfilling a patriotic duty, that they were serving their Country in a Great Cause. The magnetic personality of President Theodore Roosevelt fired the imagination of countless men

and converted them to the cause of conservation. Many of these men decided to cast their lot ‘.dth the young and promising Forest Service. Gifford Pinchot as Chief Forester, took these young enthusiasts and welded them into a unit of dedicated, forward looking men, devoted to each other, devoted to the Forest Service and happy to serve the Great C

Reserves

were that places, for west the were

occupied was

spent had that employed. but Wallowa

duty nearest Cove, tant for Forest Cause

Guard.

the

dutch

his

his out

fer

We

they

no very guaranteed There

his

The

O’l3rian Forest Lay.

all

Oregon

with

Guard

maps

have

fenced sometimes

on headquarters trips duty One

settlement Forest

they

cabin

Asistant trips

were

oven

few

of

were

the

little

Assistant

Guard

then no

his

of and for had

were

roads.

o

and concerned

that pastures Reserve

to

Reserve

records

a no

counting

time

headquarters.

the one

one

available place

not

the

on regard

little

campfire Ranger Ranger

and

was

Wallowa

at

at the Assistant

Sheep very

Ranger on office

most

returned

he

of to

available,

Wallowa, Wailowa,

into

with

the

stock Chesnimnus

for

better

Stations in

had

roll

friendly, just

were

kettle.

camps

of

which

were unit

was job

their charge

getting

three

the

and Ranger,

what

out

at

-Ie

than

very

Oregon Oregon for

stationed

and

was

few

they but

that usually

tine.

once

settling own

your

of Assistant

Forest

most

but

the

the

a

sketchy.

cow

and

headquartered

depended

pecuniary

the

one

better

year.

could

but

to for

blankets

the

three

map

of

camps

The

far

the Reserve at

Chesnirnnus

secured Forest

the

it

stockmen’s

these

hospitality

that

pitt

between.

Rangers Assistant

Halfway,

map

months

Tha

is vast

In mostly were

Wallowa

rewards.

and their

a

Guard

men

Chief of some

men

in

supplies

territory at

safe

often

the

a

that Forest

1906.

and

used did.

on Oregon, Wallowa,

troubles

parts

helping horses.

unit.

The

Forest

and

Twisted

code

bet

mountains,

tents.

one

he

stopping

any

at one Forest

We

Reserve

On

to

of was

of

whe:e

Forest

The one the Guard

know un

Oregon from assume allowed the Assis

1LO

Hair the There the

Ther’

Guard.

at

his 141 C drew with charcoal on a white tanned buckskin for Lewis and Clark in 1905, showing the Clearwater River, Snake River and Columbia River. Even that map was valuable as it showed the falls at the miles, the portage at the Cascades, and the Columbia entering the Great Waters.

These early day Forest Officers needed a good map to show grazing allotment boundary lines, to show isolated ranches, trails, etc. So,

they set about making maps and correcting errors on the mpas then available. In a few years the maps were serviceable,

We have a few reports by Supervisor O’Brien, some letters from and to his superiors. We Iaiow that Forest Superintendent D. . Sheller met O’Brien at La Grande and instructed him in his duties and that he gave 0 Brien the Civil Service examination for Forest Super visor on October 23, 1905, which O’Brien passed with a grade of 80.2O. It is presumed that Sheller probably spent a couple of weeks in train ing O’Brien and that they nay have visited some parts of the reserve.

Sheller probably agreed to changing t’-ie headquarters from La Grande to Wallowa for the change was made that same fall, probably in November, for O’Brien was authorized to lease an office in Wallowa by a letter

dated December 18, 1905 by Wru. L. lall, Acting Forester, Washington, D.C. O’Brien reports that there were 251,830 head of sheep under permit on the Wallowa Reserve in 1906 and 18,702 cattle and horses.

We have no figures for the Chesnimnus for that year. O’Brien also says that he had insufficient men to properly administer the grazing pro blems, that the stockinen. were complaining of inadequate service and, “at the recent stock meeting held at this place, the stockmen adopted a resolution asking the Department for a larger force on the reserves.”

Insert on page If of manuscript. Putting the Wallowa and Ches nimrius Forest Reserves under administration. 142 C O’Brien states that Assistant Ranger Charles Black of alfway,

- Oregon had a ride of 150 m.les to reach the Supervisor’s office at Wallowa during eight months of the year when the summit of the I—’ tains is impassible, and that Assistant Ranger Marshal F. Giffin of [ Cove, Oregon about a 60 mile ride for a similar period. Assistant Guard, J. Fred McClain wrote of one incident that L occurred in his area of the Chesnimnus Reserve. His station was at a cabin called BeIth Cabin on the head of Cold Spring Creek. Account [ as follows: [ “1 received a letter late in August from H. K. O’Brien in wdch he instructed me to not let the Nez Per’e Indians come in on the thy and Clemons range with their ponies, as was their yearly custom in the r hting season. Sure enough one morning in September I saw a great dust coming up the trail, and Beith said “Here comes the Indians”. I [ got on my horse and rode down the trail to meet them. I motioned them to stop as they had about four or five hundred horses and were heading [ for Cold Springs to camp. They said they did not savvy - in fact pre tended to not understand any English at all, but as more Indians kept

coming I saw Joe Albert and Culley the Indian interpreter, with whom [ I was very well acquainted, and who I knew talked and understood good English. By this time Philip McFarland and his daughter Nora came up. [ After I explained to them they could not camp and graze their horses - on this range they all moved back down Horse Creek below the Forest L boundary, and camped. They stayed there for about two weeks, and from r this camp they wrote numerous letters to A. C. Smith, an old lawyer who lived in Enterprise at that time and who was a great friend of the Indians.

He also wrote them that they could not graze on National Forest lands without permit.” // J. Fred McClain 143 c Euring 1906 on the Chesnininus Reserve there were 6 class A fires (under j acre) and 1 class B fire (* to 10 acres). Causes of the fires given: 1 campfire left by Indians, 1 branding fire left by stockmen, 2 campfires left by campers, 2 campfires left by sheep herders and 1 cause unknown.

On the Wallowa Reserve there were 18 class A fires, 5 class B

fires, and 1 class C fire (over 10 acres). Four were started by camp

fires, 10 by lightning and 10 by unknown cause. No expense for control other than Ranger and Guard labor, plus help from permit holders not entitled to compensation. Forest Guard, Alva L. Keeler has not written up any of his experiences during the time that he worked on the old ‘Ia1lowa in 1906 or of his time on the Imnaha in 1907. But, in conversations with the

compiler of this work, has related many interesting occurrences. He helped select several Administrative sites which were carefully survey

ed and mapped. Among those selected were Lick Creek, Coverdale, Stand— ley, North Minarn, Minam and Bear Creek. e contacted stockmen on the Imnaha, Pine Creek, Eagle Valley, Lower Powder and in the Wallowa Valley. Keeler counted many thousand sheep, several thousand head of cattle and delivered at least a full pack load of Use Books to permi-. ttees. He worked with Assistant Ranger Charles Black, Assistant Ranger Marshal F. Giff in and Assistant Ranger Stewart and others. Alva Keeler packed Jardine and Sampson into the Standley country

and helped them do their study work in that area in 1907. He tells of one happening that summer. One of the above men staked a hired horse out to graze while he was doing some work out of sight a short distance ( away. The horse was staked with a slip knot around his neck and tied solid. The ground was clear but rather steep. When he returned, the — 144 C horse had choked to death at the end of the rope on the downhill side of the tree to which he was anchored. Keeler had some fun by informjn Jardine or Sampson that the owner valued the horse very highly and thai he would probably insist on about $150.00 as payment for the horse.

The horse was finally paid for out of personal funds for about $50.00 to the great rel.ef of the careless Forest Officer.

Alva L. Keeler quit the Forest Service after the second year work because he could earn more money at other work. !e worked with live stock and barbered for many years. Later he returned to work for the Forest Service under Rangers Grady Miller and Gerald Tucker. The following account was written by Ranger Tucker in 195.

Alva L. Keeler Born 910-83

Worked as Forest Guard acting as Forest ranger on the old Wa11ow with headquarters at Wallowa during the summers of 1906 and 07. ‘{e was detailed to count and supervise livestock use in the High Jailowas, Imnaha River and Eagle Creek. This cafled for almost constant tra;el throughout the area with occasional trips to Pine Valley, Eagle Valley and the Imnaha River to contact ranchers at their homes. Supervisor O’Brien gave him an excellent personnel report and tried to get him to continue with Forest Service work. He could easil: have qualified for a Ranger Appointment but he considered the $90.00 per month salary insufficient w’hen considering the expenses connected with the job. During his duty he packed for and guided two crest

Service men through the High Mountain, who later became well known,

Arthur W. Sampson and James T. Jardine. Keeler returned to work for the Service on the Imnaha-Snake District in 1942 as Guard at Mormon. He held this position through 1947. In 1943 he took the job as Packer on the same District with • .4

1LI.5 (‘ headquarters at Memaloose and held this position through 1952. While at Mormon he worked on several large fires. The Pleasant Valley fire, Dug Cr. fire, Cow Creek fire and Temperance Creek fire. The Pleasant Valley fire and Dug Creek fires were each several hundred acres and were handled by small crews of cooperators living in the vicinity. Keeler was in charge and no outside help was used. Such excellent women cooperators as Celia Titus, Minnie Wilson and Durlene iilson did excellent work on these fires. On the 32 Point fire in l99 Keeler worked 18 days straight time with the government pack string putting in many long hours and kept the string in good condition, despite the long heavy packing job.

Keeler did outstanding work on the Imnaha—Snake District. He could see the jobs that needed doing and had the initiative and

industry to go ahead and get the jobs done. He can lock back with pride on many jobs well done.

During his period of duty on the Imnaha-Snake District he was outstanding in his training of the younger personnel in the ways of the canyon country and in safe working methods. He was not reemployed in 1953 because of advancing age, despite the fact that he was still in prime physical condition. In the spring of 1953 Ranger G. J. Tucker prepared a scroll of

appreciation on behalf of the Forest Service which was signed by Supervisor Bennett and Tucker and presented it to Mr. Keeler with the best wishes of the Forest Service. The Forest Service will miss Alva. His vast store of pioneer tales and stories of early day Forest Happenings were a source of inspiration to many a Forest Officer, Others will carry on the work he loved so dearly, but they will be less skillful perhaps, and no

extinguished

action

though

mountains

great

or

to

ered

usually

Cove were

infrequent

over

drawn

Mail

the

tration

the

occasionally

hardware

Grande,

biscuits.”

doubt

BOld

horseback.

the

last

There

young

only

because

the

WBrien

the

number

and

It

taken

The

there

Expert”,

stage.

Districts

sometimes

required

of

should

Oregon

greatest

newly

passenger

for

three

once

store.

compiler

was

Ranger

intervals,

the

by

on

were

during

of

recalled

fire

visit

Freight

a

a

stockmen

them

on

built

months,

Wallowa,

be

delays

in

ready

week

in

three

no

would

of

For

handicaps

how

control.

born

1925

became

the

service

Wallowa

and

in

lookouts

the

railroad

to

the

that

to

was

fires

at

through

days

a

appreciate

fire

the

in

reminisce

where

and

Chesnimnus,

then

Chico

rather

swing

hand

next

acquainted

moved

mind

slow

between

nearest

County

to

never to

were

Cattlemen

season,

and

modern

Mr.

arrived

reservoir

and

three

La

Halfway,

a

efficient

that

mail

short

by

pack

usually

the

about

O’Brien

Grande

reported.

a

was

Irnnaha.

team

Elgin

railroad

little

also

Imnaha

all

Forest

or

with

Guards service

time.

or

in

and

either

old

four

Oregon

and

of

during

and

administration.

make

Wallowa

sighted many

and

was

Howard

sheepmen

advise

man and

All times

Service.

wagon.

rode

was

years,

Union.

However,

Many

and

Wallowa

by

owner

a

prospectors.

and

power

Wallowa;

Mr.

travel

batch

at

team

K.

slow

patrol

and on

on

small

or

about

were

Elgin,

O’Brien’s

O’Brien

and

The

September

the

Mail

help

was

some

out

and

transportation

according

of

from

operator

fires

routes first

there

except Wallowa

the

sour

by

in

buckboard

was

Mail

kind

from

Oregon.

would

Wallowa

in

horse

Even

the

same

adminis...

deliv

dough

were

21,

train

in

La..

the

at

of

for

to

146

with

of

to

1908. a 147 [ O’Brian the seasons of tQ7 and ‘08 were favorable, with frequent r summer rains. L. Mr. O’Brian worked for the sawmill company at Pondosa, Oregon

for a few years after he sold his hardware business. He was in charge of their office. The compiler believes that he worked there until [ about 1939 when ill health forced him to retire. It is known that he was working for the Pondosa Lumber Company at Pondosa, Oregon on

L March 19, 1938. No further knowledge is available as to his where— [ abouts in later years. Ranger Charles Black worked for several years on the Pine District

and may have worked elsewhere before leaving the Forest Service. He later was in the insurance and real estate business in La Grande, Ii Oregon where the compiler became acquainted with him. Mr. Black was r a highly respected citizen of La Grande, active in the L.D.S. Church and municipal affairs. le always hai a soft spot in his heart for the [ Forest Service. He lived in La 1deGrar until he passed away about 1944 or 1945. [ [

L

L 148

C EARLYPERSONNELON TTE WALLOWA,CHESNIMNUS AIID IMNAA FOREST RESERVES

The Wallowa and Chesnixnnus Forest Reserves were first put under

administration in the latter part of 1905. Howard IC. O’rien was appointed as Ranger in charge of the two Reserves effective October 1, 1905. Mr. 1OBrien received his appointment as the result of a recornm endation by the Honorable Malcolm A. Moody, U.S. Representative, which indicated that the appointment was a political one. However, Mr. O’Brien seems to have fully- justified the confidence placed in him as he rose rapidly in the service and was universally well regarded as an efficient administrator. The letter of appointment dated September 22, 1905 specifically states that Mr. O’rien was to make his headquarters at La Grande, Oregon and that his salary was to be $1,000 per annum. His continuance in the position and chances for promotion were to depend entirely on the results of the -examination for Forest Supervisor

which was to be held in La Grande by Forest Superintendent ID. 3. Sheller on October 23, 1905.

It seems that the headquarters did not long remain in La Grande

but was transferred that fall to Wallowa, Oregon. A letter from Wi1lia

L. Hall, Acting Forester, Washington ID. C. dated cember 18, 1905 and addressed to Wallowa, authorized Mr. O’Brien to lease an office room with light and fuel for which he was to be reimbursed for an amount not to exceed $14.00 per month.

It is presumed that when Mr. Sheller came to La Grande to give the examination for Forest Supervisor and to start O’Brien out with instructions and training in his new job, that he authorized the head quarters to be established at Wallowa. The move seems logical as WJ1owa was znore nearl3r centrally located to serve the vast area over 14.9 C which O’Brien was placed in charge. The move wa5 also no doubt appreciated if not suggested by O’Brien because Wallowa was his home. Howard K. O’Brien pri.or to this appointment had been for several years an employee of a mercantile firm at Wallowa.

A letter dated January 25, 1906 from Washington D. C. and signed

by Thomas H. Sherrard, Acting Forester, authorized O’Brien to expend not to exceed $38.25 for the purchase of 4 axes, 4 shovels, 4 irfattocks,

2 crowbars, 4 hammers, 4 picks, 3 garden rakes, 2 handsaws, 4 shoeing

hammers, 4 rasps, arid 4. pair of pinchers for the Wallowa Forest Reserve

and not to exceed $19.50 for 2 axes, 2 shovels, 2 mattocks, 1 crowbar,

2 hammers, 2 picks, 2 garden rakes, 1 handsaw. 2 shoeing hammers, 2 rasps and 2 pair of pinchers for the Chesnimnus Forest Reserve.

On February 28, 1906, Mr. O’Brien was authorized to expend not to exceed $2.00 per month for telephone rental. Howard K. O’Brien passed the Civil Service Examination that was given in La Orande, Oregon for Forest Supervisor on October 23, 1905, with a grade of 80.20%. However, he was not promoted to Forest Supervisor until December, 1906. Meantime he had worked as Ranger in Charge at a salary of $1000.00 per annum. Upon his promotion to Forest Supervisor his salary was raised to $1500.00 per annum.

For the 1906 season the following personnel were employed on the Chesrijmnus Forest Reserve. Sa1y

$1000. Howard K. O’Brien Ranger in Charge 900. Thomas E. Chidsey Asst. Ranger, Dec. 12, 1905 thru (Married stockman 1906. Moved to Wallowa from Prairie and carpenter) City, Oregon

720. Walter A. Fay Guard, March 5, 1906 thru 1906 (30 years of age, owned 500 acres near Wallowa, jived in vicinity- for 25 years previously. Took Rangers Exam May, 1906 and failed by 42/100%. Married and three children) 150

C $ 50,00 per mo. J. Fred McClain Asst. Guard July 1 to Sept. 30, 19 (Took Ranger’s Exam May, 1906 but failed by a small margin. 26 years old, married and 1 child.) IXiring the 1906 season the following personnel were employed on the Wallowa Forest Reserve:

$1000. Howard K. OBrien Ranger in Charge 900. Charles Black,t Asst. Ranger, Ia1fway, Oregon. Jan. 1, 1906 through 190b. 32 years of age, was a miner when appointed single. 1 900. Mars”el F. Giffin, Asst. Ranger, Cove, Oregon. Jan. 1, 19C through 1906. 40 years of age, single, miner and woods:an. Stickler for regulations and made some enemies for Forest Service according to report.

900. William A. Stewart, Asst. Ranger, Wallowa, Oregon. Jan. 1, l9O until Nov. 15, 1906. 30 years of age, single. Miner and stockman.

720. AivaL.Keeler, Guard, Wallowa, Oregon. May 1, 1906 to Oct. 13, i9O. 23 years of age, single. Stockman. Took exasi for Ranger at La Grande. Failed by a small margin.

IMNAHAFOREST E?.ESERVE

March 1, 1907 the Chesnimnus and Wallowa were combined to fora the Imnaha. Personnel for 1907 as follows:

$1500. Howard K. OtBrien Forest Supervisor

Harvey W. -!arris Deputy Supervisor Ace Searle t Clerk

Newton V. Downs Guard, Sled-Springs District

Walter A. Fay Forest Ranger, Chesnimnus District

Th 1907 James P. Jardine was in the Wallowa area for quite some

time. He supervised the construction of the Billy Meadows Experimental

Pasture fence. He and Mr. Arthur W. Sampson made several trips into the high mountains on range studies that year. Alva L. Keeler packed their camp and served as guide.

C

Alva

J.

Charles

Joe

Thomas

Joseph

Fred

Harris

L.

E.

K.

Keeler

McClain

B1ack

Chidsey

Carper

Asst.

Appointed

High Passed

Asst.

headquarters.

appointed

Ast.

Asst.

Forest

sometime

Forest

Government

control

Mountains,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger

Ranger,

Supervisor

agent

during

April

April

trapper

Supervised

exam

Joseph

Pine-.Eagle; Bear

—

Passed

transferred

Eagle,

1,

1,

1907

Chesnimnus

there.

1907.

In

1907.

Creek

and

and

to

March

Ranger

Pine

predatory

take

livestock

Irnnaha

District

Halfway,

to

area.

and

at

exam

the

Heppner

La

Upper

Districts

job

animal

Grande.

in

Minam,

Oregon

March,

as

151

Imnaha. Forest

4. S

perpetuate

three

Also,

September.”

the

Beef

Shropshires

in

a

The

giving

“Lincoln

sheepmen

raising

spered

later per

1907,

prices

sold

ling

and

K.

domestic

good

porportion

general

Shropshire

O’Brien.

steers

pound.”

years

it

that,

“The

for

ewes

sales

cross

“the

them

It

and

Some

were

should

have

Rams

have

the

$1.20

was

cattle

livestock

of

average

sold

advancing

“ecoxd

many

reduced

wool

a

These

brought

interesting

for

increased

to

Early

cattle

age.

with

much

been

reported

is

be

after

compared

as

have

other

mutton,

clipped

market

also

recalled

quotations

Merinos

prices

high

better

being

importing

as

contract

“The

on

from

business

from

become

shearing,

much

sheep,

bred

that,

with

the

1907

as

was

items

policy but

from

with

about

20

class

for

$30.00

have

that

5.50,

Imnaha

as•possible.”

a

the

wealthy, unusually

to

prices

GRAZING

on

are

a

“the

I

this

in

great

a

sheep

were

great

$37.00

22.

am

account

of

and

few

it

secured

of

high

this

per

to

weathers

livestock

National

anxious

locality

the

was

stock

were

included

wool

years

deal

were

$45.00

SITUATION

head

-any

prices

the

“While

country.

for

good

Forest

customary

of

a

for

brought

to

than

reached

expenses

ago

good

and

blooded

beef

to

the

$4.50

as

Forest

during

sold

the

market

of

many

in

the

have

when

Service

not

formerly

the

amount

sheep

being

wool

a

Cattle Merino

former

for

but

to

and

during

report

sheepmen

per

bucks,

top

for

incidental the

the

a

was

sell

and

from

7

ewe

lambs

for

sold

of

is

hundred

price

year

1907

breeding

in

ewes

used

unusually

amount

a

1907”.

sheep.”

on

feed

and

this

doing

which

steers

17

pound.”

the

during

have

$3.50.”

by

grazing

of

which

the

for

to

her

to

it

Ches

country.

weight.

Howard

1907

whIle

much

is

pro

of

22

ranges.”

at

“Year

beef,

sheep

152

takes

good,”

“The

makes

In

of

-

to These

[

E [

L r

[

— [

-, L.

Wallowa

almost

of

ally

the

grazing.”

mountain

of

National

to

being

Daker natural

the

1907.

1907

total

the

the

the

crease

side

head.

horses

8583

nimnus

this

its

a

condition

Wailowa

in

lower

center

great

naha

but

Counties.

wholly

ranges

exactly

Mr.

head

of

grazing

The

National

area

order

They

by

As

barriers

in

Division

blue-grass

Forest

livestock

approximately

0’’ien

“The

Imriaha,

extent

new

about

the

1907

of

of

and

along

were

Division

used

in

to

of

with

cattle

areas.”

townships

addition

new

sheepmen

purposes,

Snake

Wallowa

Forest

in

give

their

6000

He

and

of

fir3t

by

by

natural

suggested

lower

the additions

the

grazing

(green-fescue

states,

the

trancient

Wallowa

separate

of

and

this

north

head.”

ranges

which

later

same

under

800,000

referred

“Also,

County,

the

Imnaha

in

Snake

3

horses

which

barriers

range

South,

these

this

of

“The

Imnaha

a grazing

-to

was

County

actual

pay

and

In

dependent

division

River

a

a

sheep

National

acres

accounts

the

this

in

a

Southern

line

large

to

1908.

made Southern

permit

have areas

the

chance

range

1906

as

as

above

number

and

districts,

division

area,

prior

forest

was

east

ig

on

being

outlined

reduced

portion

into

were

the

ranch

to

in

Forest

which

for

June

to

added

Division

Sheep

consisted

Division

and

and

to

of

11439

1908.

south

included

necessary

north

improve..” not

the

between

its

cattle

areas.

6,

themselves

will

other west

of

or

have

by

to

Creek,

under

overgrazed

1911.

head

this withdrawal

side

an

and

0’Prien

the

are

was

not

approximately

of

increased

fringe

will

niost

increase

the

The

because

of

permit

south

Imnaha

fuily

Marr

area

the

always

by

The

stand

cattle

Minam

very

probably-

Union

of

north

corresponds

area

division

areas,

was

Fiat

condition

portions

aware

for

the

during

in

heavy

grazed

of

of

from

liber

and

open

between

and

and

side

153

April,

area,

out

2856

throu

of

in..

A o fl C L r [ C C C C [ [ [ rc r

and consumed of for 6 4 2 Dist.__C&H 11 8 5 3 10 Miriam 12 9 Portion for Total Thc1udes 7 15 14 13 (This

,Includes

a

PERNITTED

1907 it,

the

cow

IMNAHA

Mr.

The does

1254 2251 3097 2500

New New 3505

“is

100 1Q37

and

are by

92

O’i3rien

numbers

part part

not

1907

Addition Addition

not

each NATIONAL

i6 listed

LIVESTOCK

include

18950 28000 Sheep 60044 of of 26000 42147

a

1094 2400 9600

animal”. for

fair

of

Wallowa Waijowa criticizes

below

for for

a

stock FOREST

ratio sheep the ON

4-1 6-1 15 15 Uncertain Uncertain 81 38 Summer Summer Uncertain Uncertain 5-i Uncertain Uncertain 5—1

MINAN

1903 1908

Season

with

THE

days days days Lower Lower

‘JALL0WA

permitted

800,000

— - -

-

-

the in as

11-30 10-15 li15 10-15

10-15

PORTION

the

fall spr.

being consideration

Miriam Minain

charge

PORTION

amount acre

Dist.

on

descriminitory

2 1 6 4 3 5 11 8 7 15 13 12 9 14 10

of

the

PTTED addition.)

WALLOWA of

40

1ZTho C&H

3000 2500 3500 ÷600 11400 —600 1500

4000 6000 3000

Imnaha

150 250

grazing

of

for

the

20000 Sheep 15000 35000 30000 15000 50000

LIVESTOCK NATIONAL

6000 7200 83200

3600

3600 7200 yearlong

National

against

amount

fees 1908

15 Season 15 15 5-1 ______5-1 5-1 Summer Tearlong 7-1 Yearlong Yearlong 5—1 7-1 5-1 5-1 & & 7-1 7-1 Yearlorig & Spring, Spring, Spring,

collected.

FORST

Winter

Winter

i1inter

grazing of ON

Forest

days days days

sheep

— —

- — — —

- — - -

-

154

grass

THE

10-15 11-3— 11—15 10—15 11-15 11-15 10-15 10-15 10—15 11-15 11-15

fall spr. spr.

Fall Fail

Fall ______

155

C 1907 1908

01st. C&H Sheep Season Dist. C&H Sheep Season 16 600 28800 Various 16 1000 Spring, Fail & Winter 15000 Yearlong 500 Summer 11000 Spring & Fail 1? *1600 .5-1 — 6.-i 17 5000 4_]. — 11-30 4893 6-i — 9-10 *3893 9—10 — il_30 *24(30 5-1 - 6-30 *2400 10_is - 11—30 18 600 .5-20 - 9—20 18 750 5—1 - 11-30 19 19 150 Yearlong 20 2423 4-1 — 11-30 20 2000 4-i - 11-30 4, 600 of 9-10 2400 4-i - fl30 21 2089 5—1 — 11-30 21 1O0 4—1 - 11-30 1500 4-i — 6_’o 2500 4—1 — 6-30 *2500 10-16 - 11—30 22 675 22 1200 5-1 — 11-30 23 200 5-1 — 11—30 23 200 Summer 9474 Various 23 2400 Summer 6000 Spring & Fall 2400 Yearlong ,I arbitrarily assigned 600 of these *Salne stock for separate to the Wallowa on an acreage basis. seasons. Total for the ‘Ja11owa Portion 15177 1C6421 - 25800 157600

Grand Totals 25564 i66465 37200 240800

TOTAL FOR ThNA!{AATI0NAL FOREST

S-{E 1ORSES CATTLE HORSESANDCATTLE TOTALGRAZINGFEES 166,L65 927 24,637 25,564 18, 977.78

Amount distributed to the Counties from the L’rinaha NationcJ. Forest for the year 1907 with acreages: County Acreage Amount Wallowa 1,358,560 $1153.69 Baker .567,040 481.53 Union 593,960 504.39 TOTAL $2139.61 156 Supervisor O’lJrien states that because there had never been a r case of sheep scab in Wallowa County that this county was exempt from r the State Law requiring all sheep to be dipped, but that Taker and Union Counties dipped all of their sheep and that Dr. McCline of the [ Thareau of Animal Industry had inspected 98% of all the sheep in Wallowa County. [ O’Brien’s recomniendaticn for grazing authorization for 1908 (which it is belIeved can safely be assumed tb be the numbers approver and actually grazed under perait) are as follows:

eep = 225,000 Cattle & Horses 30,000 r Additions to the Wallows. N.tjona1 Forest caused the numbers to be - increased in 1908. [ There were i.ndoubtedly additions], stock that grazed on the Natio Forest in trespass. Retired Ranger Grady Miller made the following [ written statement on December 7, 193, referring to an assignment he had before he received his ranger apointment but does not state the exact year. owever, from the context of the statement it would appear to have been in 1908 or 1909. “Trespassing stock were numerous and persistent. I had one [ assignment lasting six weeks as follows: (“Go out in Chesnimnus country, record all the stock you can and see if they are in trespass.”. “I put in six weeks riding that country, recorded several thousand

— cattle and horses. On checking up after returning to Supervisor’s

headquarters we found over 400 cattle in trespass as well as 125 horses. Adjustments were made by having the trespassers pay usual grazing fees for these unpermitted stock. Other cases were settled in this manszer. Honest stockmen soon learned that it didn’t cost any more to trespass than not to, so for a few years this method was resorted to by a large percentage of stockmen.” ‘57

BILLY MEAtOWS ELK PASTURE

In 1907 the Forest Service began the construction of a sheep tight woven wire fence enclosing a pasture of 2560 acres near Billy Meadows Ranger Station for the purpose of doing experimental work and carrying on studies to determine if it would be practical to pasture sheep on Forest Service type summer range under fence. The pasture fence was completed during the summer of 1908. The obvious advantages were the fewer employees needed to care for the sheep, the freedom of movement for the sheep and elimination of handling by herders was expected to increase wool and mutton production, the predatory animal proof fence was expected to pay for itself in fewer losses of sheep. The disadvantages of course were, the cost of fence construction and annual maintenance, the absence of the herder to care for and doctor sick or injured sheep, the summer period of non-herding would weaken the herd instinct of the band making it more difficult to hancle the sheep to concentrate on favorable grcand resulting in the choice areas being severly overgrazed.

James T. Jardine and Arthur W. Sampson initiated the studies and Jardine supervised the selection of a site for the pasture and at least the first part of the construction. The pasture was two miles

square containing four sections. Joseph K. Carper was employed to kill all predatory animals within the enclosure, which he accomplished with hounds and rifle chiefly, but some trapping was done, mostly on the outside of the pasture. The experiment proved the impractabiity of handling sheep under fence on the National Forest and the experiment was abandoned after a few years. In 1911 a plan was made to use the pasture for elk which had reached a low ebb in population throughout Eastern Oregon. The 158 reason for the scarcity of elk in Eastern Oregon has never been satis... factorily explained, but it was never-the-less a fact that there were only a few scattered small bands of elk in Eastern Oregonand South

Eastern Washington during the ‘90’s arid early 1900’s. The young and newly organized State Game Departments of both states were of course promoting the enactment of game control laws and publicized the low ebb in population of both deer and elk as the undoubted result of illegal and unrestricted hunting for meat, hides arid elk teeth. How ever, it seems to have been overlooked, or at least not mentioned, that

elk teeth from yearling or spike elk were worthless on the market and the teeth from two year old elk had little value. Only the teeth from mature or old bulls were valuable. It is quite evident that hunting pressure was never as severe during pioneer days in the Blue and

Wallowa Mountains as it is today. So, we must look elsewhere for an explanation to account for the extremely low populations of elk and

deer during the 90’s and 1900’s. We -nh not attempt to offer this explanation. Several factors could have contributed to the situation, such as disease, overuse of key ranges, extremely severe winters and, of course, hunting. It might also be of interest to note that the Thdians of the area have traditions that tell of periods of plentiful game and periods of extreme scarcity of game. Arrangements were made to use the illy Meadows Experimental

Pasture as a place to raise elk and in the early spring of 1912 a car load of elk was shipped to Joseph, Oregon. The following excerpts are quoted from a feature article appearing in the December 4, 1933 issue of the Oregonian.

“The Oregon Board of Fish and Game Commissioners taking action in 191]. to establish a 2560-acre elk refuge (obtained from the forest sexwice) at 131ily Meadows pasture in Wallowa County. Encouraged by 4 159 Governor We, the board procured a herd of 23 elk from the United States biological survey, picking them out of a herd concentrated at Jackson’s Hole in Wyoming.”

“Captured in deep snow, these elk were loaded on sleds March 2, 1912, arid taken with great difficulty oUer the Teton Pass to St. Anthony, Idaho. Allowed to rest there for two days, 15 of the strong est were then loaded into a box car and shipped to Oregon, arriving at Joseph March 14. The two bulls, seven cows and si yearlings were again crated and transported by wagon and homemade sled for 40 miles, through deep snow, to Billy Meadows, arriving March 19. All the elk arrived alive though some had been injured when first captured, but next spring one of the bulls and four cows died and the net increase that summer of 1913 was only one calf. However, the results of the efforts of that first commission in 1911-12 are evidenced today, for the elk have increased greatly through proper protective measures.” “Elk have been increasing steadily each year until finally it ras deemed advisable to have an open season to control the increase and break up the concentrations in certain sections by scattering them over a wider area. This was me possible by the 1933 legislature which declared an open season. The first year the open territory included 3aker, Union, Umatila and Wallowa Counties. In the next two t seasons part of Grant County was added. In 193 most of Wallowa

County was eliminated and 1937 a larger portion of Grant County was added to the open area. Beginning in 1934, checking stations were established with the cooperation of the forest service, through which elk hunters are required to check in and out of open elk teiritory and observe regulations concerning equipment, care of meat, etc. This system provided an accurate check on the kill, which has run as

[

[

[

U L

-J

- [

L

r

r

t

r

Association.

beef

Meadows

after

too

been

been

complished

approximately

During

foilows:

much

pasture

After

far

injuriously

‘ T The

that

Elk

the

of

less

game

1934,

they

about

the

week 1

Pasture.

a

or

burden

than

300

intended

commission

holding

relinquished

a

747;

1915

affected

elk

open

the

for

1935,

It

the

were

estimated

pasture

season

purpose

has

the

maintenance

because

now

H11ed.

692;

been

State

their

fe1s

in

by

and

1936,

natura].

used

Clatsop

the

the

rights

Game

that

that

of

kill

Cbeanimnus

since

547,

Coimnission

the

increase.t

the

open

county

to

each

and

about

the

elk

supply

season

1937,

year

this

Bifly

fence

G&J

1920

and

has

has

have

year

620.

became

soon

as

not

160

ac— a • Jcy Lls fS MAiN 1 A’ibI 0/3kei c2- /

fi • t1y’// CL.

L H

INTRO1XTCTIQ{

r’: L INNAHA Imnaha River in our Vailey Has the nicest sort of clime Pray tell how to write Im-na-haw When Imntha doesn’t rhyme White faced cattle munchin bunch grass Poets cail them critters Kine Have no worries on their faces Cause Imnaha doesn’t rhyme. Cowgirls dance with spurs a jinglin Swing your partners down the line Miss a step or two while prancin Imnaha still is not in rhyme. Rimrocks, canyons, gorges, eddies Master hands alone design Eras of the far off ages &e Imnaha was to rhyme. Close your eyes and paint that picture Grieve the losses of the blind What they’d give to view the grandeur Of Imnaha without a rhyme.

By: Joe Hopkins r F [ [ F [ L [ [ r L

F

[_‘ [

happenings

adjoining serving

timers11 larger various

the consolidation

submerged mores to

of

Inhabitants, developed Inland authorities

Forest,

the

this

year

In Acknowledgement

It

The

In

of

entity,

early

Eipire

for

incidents. recording

for was

land,

the writing

1954.

our

author

area,

the

from

of

posterity

giving

decided

available.

author

period poople

and

an

of identity

are

as

the

the

the

This

;5

believes

this

earlier

the

the

it

the

necessary

WallowaWhitman the

makes authors

author

to

of today.

influenced

brings Wailowa and

book struggles

an

events /llLA)

writer

of

end

exploration

opportunity day.

grateful

no

that

the

of

has.a

the

personal

the

Therefor,

for

PREFACE

claim

with

and

historical

numerous Waflowa

a

by story

the

chronicle

an

knowledge

real

experiences

the appreciations

which

of

National

understanding and

local

r-’-r

knowledge

to

of

literary

Whitman sense

National

several

first

settlement.

become

the

our

sketches

area,

up

of

of

Forest. Wallowa

ancestors

on hand

to

the

on

merit. chapters

and

acquainted

satisfaction

Forest

of

/c’2,

the

recent

are

July

of

early of

word

the from

Wallows

due

at

the

the

1

in

took

Native The

pictures

times, the

have the

history

many

of prejudices Wallowa

that

with

story

that

possession

close best

in

and

been

“old American

of

and

pre the

of

year, of

knoini

National is

a

devotec of

the

the

and 1

Wallows County, unlike Gaul is divided naturally into four parts r instead of three: The high mountains, the valley with it’s adjoining r grassland plateau, the timber covered plateau, and the canyons. It lies in the extreme northeastern part of the state of Oregon. It is r one of Oregons larger counties with a total area of 2,033.920 acres. It is not densely populated, having only 7,036 residents according to the 196G census, [ The high mountains of Wailowa County have come to be known as the “Switzerland of America”. From the lofty ice..crowned peaks of Eagle [ Cape Matterhorri and Sacajawea to the somber depths of Hells Canyon r of the Snake River; from the flowering Alpine meadows to the green L fields of the boauti.ful Wallows Valley, from the tiny jewel-like lakes [ among the granite to the rippled surfaces of Wallows Lake at the foot of the mcntinz, one soon exhausts his superlatives in describing the [ soenerr and eoiogy of this unique land. Is it any wonder that Chief Joseph and his sna1l band of Nez Perce fought so valiantly against our

L government when we forced them out and took their homeland? Wallowa County although close by the Old Oregon Trail was little L influenced by the early fur trade or the mountain men. Because of [ natural barriers, the explorers and the caravans of pioneers passed it by, littlo d-eaming that such a land lay just over the mountains. The E fe-er wanderIng prospectors who chanced upon this valley of winding waters found no gold and the gold rush passed and eddied and swirled around Wallowa County with little effect upon the tranquility of the scene. The missionaries found more easily accessible locations and their influence was negligible upon the native Nez Perce. It was not until the choice grazing lands elsewhere in the Oregon country were fully appropriated, that the white man came to Wallowa County in

- numbers. I 2 This led to the tragic and lamentable Nez Perce war of 1877. It

I -- is a sad reflection upon the frailities of mankind, that greed and r rapacity should so often overpower the finer sense-abilities of moral values, leading to perpetuation of dishonorable and unscrupulous acts, r later to be deplored with deep regret. The Nez Perce were driven out of Wallowa County and a pastoral and limited agricultural economy [ quickly developed. During the ‘80’s and ‘90’s most of the choice larids were patented and the open range lands were over stocked with horses, L - - sheep and cattle. Around the turn of the century and for a few years [ thereafter much timber land arid marginal agricultural and. grazing land passed into private ownershipa [ During all this time Wallowa County remained very much in the stage of pioneer development. Ingress and egress was almost entirely L confined to one very poor wagon road. Afl. supplies had to be freightec in with team and wagon. First from far away points, then from some F what nearer sources of supply. Shipments of produce were hauled out [ in wagons to a limited extent, but most of the product of the land wa. driven out on the hoof, including horses, cattle, sheep and hogs. L The railroad came to Wallowa County in 1909 but it was not until r about 1925 that a good road was built into the county. With the coming L of the railroad, industry began to grow. Lumbering was of greatest [ importance but there were other minor starts. The pastoral economy began to give way to a diversified agri—

L culture with allied minor industries. During the last quarter of the 19th century the lumbering in

dustry moved west. New England, the East and much of the lake states had been stripped of their easily accessible timber. The “Lumber

— Barons’ had left a scene of desolation in their wake, as a result of L [ L [ L

- L [ [

L r [

r L

r bright. The on alike. ding of limited now timbs into the the range ment many coming ship Nearly from laws, most from to Roosevelt So the foresters range the outlook survive privately seems neighboring it prevelant of more of The prior thousands entry entry of land and privately industry of all came Conservative conservation population. Wall”wa the lands, National reasonable recent the set r3alized such incIudzd to the and under for through remaining about, owned railroad this. aside “cut..out of public established the both as in counties. County owned years the Forest acres Grover Wailowa wise that livestock that timber in as use public practices Better to homestead, forest public timber than the there to Forest and expect of through drastic use of in Cleveland, the County land For National as forest and range get—out” management is Wallowa and is lands forest interests lands county Reserves Forest by the true the private, has a timber the action conservation lands land of larger lands continuance same in as of sustained Forest County lands efforts Gifford philosophy. a and Reserves Wailowa a is owners our size later was claim of and reasons had are result percentage because becoming in Wailowa neighboring than therefor necessary better commensurate passed of Pinchot also to and the of and the by County of these of it is become our of 1905. west other Men becoming timber timber a management County a appearant is generally into healthy of the antedates natural and better were men if of also were counties. good National alienation late private ifowever, the Theodore vision with interests industry and therefor withdrawn evicent. true withdrawn understan vigorous forest resources, nation on true develop— others, practices our the and much that owner— Forests many-, It of land is and was o 4

Wallowa County is rich in the natural resources of Wildlife, and r Recreation, and the basic resources of soil and water have been very little damaged as yet. All of these resources are a priceless heritage L which can be used, developed and increased; or squandered and disa— pated. What is your pleasure? [ Of a total area in Waflowa County of 2,033,920 acres, 1,073,973 [ acres are within the boundaries of the Wallowa National Forest. There are 94,694 acres of privately owned lands inside the forest leaving a [ total of 979,279 acres of National Forest land. This land almost surrounds the valley and adjoining grassland plateau. Of the four [ parts of the county, the valley arid adjoining grassland plateau are where nearly all of the people live. The towns are there and most of the ranches. The other three parts, the high mountains, the timber [ covered plateau and the canyons are coriplementary to the central r portion and an integral part thereof. Each is dependent on the other. development and - It is not the purpose of this work to trace the [ history of all four parts of the county, but only of the periphery, so to speak. A complete hIstory of Wallowa County would be a work of [ considerable magnitude and in many-ways the happenings of the center would of necessity take precedence over the happenings of the peri L phery. I have therefor decided to treat mostly of the history of the Waflowa National Forest with such overlaping and excursions into the r valley as will seem adviseable to maintain contineuity and thQ relation ship of the parts to that of the whole. L 5

ThE GEOLOGICALSTORYOF COUNTY WALW4A The oldest identified exposed rocks in Wallora County were laid

down about 200 mIllion years ago during the Permian Period. These consist of altered volcanic flows and sedimentry rocks in the Wallowa Mountains. The area is made up of four major rock types; sedimentary, consisting mainly of shales, limestones, and sandstones, crops out in the. Wallowa Mountains, along the Snake River and the I!Imaba River. An ingeous unit of quartz diorite and granodiorite subsequently intruded zmch of the Wailowa Mountains during Cretaceous times to form the

Waflowa batholith. A volcanic unit made up of Columbia River basalt and associated andesite flows, by far the most extensive and covering the remainder of the country except where overlain by alluvium, was extruded dui’ing Miocene times. The youngest unit, consisting of all uvial deposits of Pleistocene and recent age, occurs mainly- in the Wailowa Vl1ey. As Eastern Oregon drifted into the Miocene time, the “Cascade Barrier” must hays been growing. It had commenced that long period of vulcanism that slowly piled up ashes, cinders, lava and bombs into the inagnificant Cascade Mountains. Volcanic ashes and gases drifted eastward, some as far as the Wallowa country. Probably during extreme outbursts animals and plants perished and some were preserved as

fossils. No doubt, local yet limited explosive vulcanism assisted in this rain of ashes and debris. During this epoch, cataclysms were frequent and extensive. This was one of the greatest periods of vulcanism the world has ever known. Both types of volcanic activity were present. One is manifested by an active volcano where clouds of smoke and steam are forced frvn a volcanic vent. Accompanying this r L [ [ L [ r

[ [ r L

[ r

r and eruptions the the show were widely rising ains age root of of and land, and a successive surfaces The the are growing Great period square the wide time most thickness most spread earth other showers that Layers This became surrounded and Lava Vast prevailed streams above over atmosphere masses. over these dramatic flourished. of embracing of that distant vast miles fLw outwellings and type flows out of the capes the Idaho. of the the of from of supplied deposits fine inundation succeeded in of ashes, by lowlands in cooled throughout surface. from was This superheated land. volcanoes incidents in and vulcanism, sheets the extent many, its volcanic The the sufficiently 3000 form type of cinders fiery and depths were the molten That and sea lava molten many of of was to hardened was Eastern soils basalt were in broad made dust lava of flood about where mud the LO00 covered flow wide thousands and the rock prevelent molten rocks in on and dust and between is long bombs extent. is geological and the until feet. Oregon, great streams a which was lava one lava shown the state with occurred did bases rock. submerged, in with highly of of this to in cracks winds many The forests pour some not basalt years. much of by of the the crumble of electrical history Isolated molten vast lava a violent come of at liquid, down instances remarkable carried the region of open marked the or to intervals of region The pour Eastern from bordering under the left rock a in oak sheets of eruption mountain probably time of flowed difference the the displays. out sides the North to and as the spread the of Washington and dust between allow over throughout surface same of islands thousands pine mount rapidly, action of Cascades. America? one

6 basalt at peaks aver far the the took the in of of [ [ r L L L — n [ L [ L [

r [

[ r F I

C

winds

of

moraine

mountains

basins and under

In

Both tensively

cycles there depressions

after

they Eastern

gration the elapsed that in

the

Oregon

magnitude

the

chemical

The

They

The During

ranges

were

The During

At

The

is,

to

a

was

the

Cascades.

in have

deposits

Blue

sheet

Oregon. of length for

precipitate

Cascades

Waflowa

sheets

vast

rich

which and

carved there

altered.

extensive volcanic

sp:’ead

the

the probably were

contributed

post-Miocene

the

and

and

and

left

of

extent in

basalt,

the

were

lakes

glacial

of

formation

which

Wallowa

U—shaped

ice,

Mountains

active

out,

depth mineralogical

silica Most

continued

hanging

eruptions,

vulcan Columbia

warping

most

many

existed

of

which

formed.

and

of

they

by plants

ages

to

in

the -

Mountains.

times

Eastern

of

valleys.

independent

while

so the of enerr

vaileys.

their are

Eastern

to pushed

extended

and River

Columbia

their

the before

far new

to and

Dekkan

rise

as

the

composition.

faulting

the

northern

which development.

as

ceased.

soil

Oregon

old animals

lava

load

down

Oregon. forces

and

They

the

basalt known,

They

These

south

River

lava

glaciers

if

by

were

they

have

on from

Cascades.

then

sculptured not until

the

dammed

part

were When

producing

plateau

the

local

into

were

lava

is

were

esentially Accompanying

the caused

older

crumbling The

became

basic.

coast

in

of the

again

sufficient

northern

not

flow

high up

glaciers

due,

dust

the

the

of

than terrain

Several

the half-domed

streams

disturbed

elevations

and arid,

at

is

India.

country. higher

continent

caine is

horizontal

and

moisture

home the

only

western

Washington.

this

ac4

scoured

time

except

was

to

geological disente

iith

Siskiuous.

Cascades

in exceeded

until process

sri

rock

ex had

and

lay

laden their

slopes

end.

where

when

out 8 the higher mo’.mtains such as the Elkhorns, the Blues and Waflos r trapped much of the remaining moisture from the cloud bearing westerly r winds. L On the eastern border of Waflowa County the Snake River has cut a canyon down through a basalt plateau that formerly filled the area between the Wailowa Mountains and the Seven Devils Mountains of 4Idaho [ There has been considerable speculatIon as to just how this happened. r Hells Canyon, for so the canyon is named, is truly one of the great canyons of the continent. fl is close to .6000 feet deep at its deepest Sevan mil w.de at its narrowest and about fifteen miles at its broadest. it i therefore slightly deeper and narrower than the Grand [ Canyon of Coloado. There is some conjecture that the river has followed, enlarged and scoured out an enormous fault line which ap— L peared between the Columbia River lava flow where it abutted up aga inst the Sevr;n Devils batholith.

No intentive geological study has as yet been made of Hells r Canyon. This sc-c3fliS strange since few places offer such a variety of formations exposed to such great depths. L This short geological story of Wailowa County indicates that all the forces of nature combined to make this area one of great natural beauty varied climatic conditions, rich in abundant pure water, good soil and with choice flora capable of supporting well a wide variety —A of animal life including man. 9

P.ALEOLITHICMAN

C The Wallowa Country is not an area rich in ancient artifacts of paleolitbic man. At least no important archeological finds have been made which can be dated as early as those of Central Oregon. It would appear from what artifacts have been found, that ancient man in Wailowa County lived for most of the year along the major streams. The Grande Ronde River from Troy to Snake River arid lower Joseph Creek supported many villages arid camps. There is evidence of many inhabited sites along the Iiunaha River from Summit Creek to Snake River, with a few along the lower portions of the main tributaries such as Big Sheep

Creek, Horse Craek, Lightning Creek and Cow Creek. There are also many village sites along the Snake River all the ay from the Baker County line to the mouth of the Grande Ronde River. Perhaps one reason for the apparent dearth of dateable artifacts is the almost total absence of caves. The geological formations along these streams are not favorable for the formation of caves and few have been found. There are some rather large rock overhangs and where these are favor ably located they nearly all have evidence of human occupation. How ever, few if any of these offer complete protection from the ravages of weather. Nearly all of the ancient writings in this area are in the form of pictographs with very few petroglyphs. Pictographs are those writings which are painted, usually on rock, and which seek to convey ideas by means of crude pictures, signs or marks, Petroglyphs are marks, signs or pictures which have been carved, cut or pecked into a surface, also usually in rocks. Occasionally petroglypha are painted in, after being scored into the rocks. Pictographs are usually paint.. ed on rock wails, under rock overhangs or in caves, while petroglyphs • 10

are more often found on large isolated boulders. Most of the pictographs in this area are red, black or white. The colors appear to have oxidized and penetrated into the rock to become a part of it and cannot be removed unless cut away. There is not believed to be any Imown method to determine the age of these writings which m’y be anywhere from several hundred years old to several thou

sand. The Indians found living in this area by white men disclaim any 1aio.rledge of these writings. They merely ascribe them to “the ancient people”. It.te!flpts to interpret the writings cannot be proven accurate,

• The meanings a5cribed to the marks, pictures, etc. vary with the reade.

• There is little doubt that paleolithic man in this area was de pendent to a )arge cegree for his subsistance on the bounty of the

• rivers, supplcrnented as much as conveniently possible by game and fowl with roots, berries and herbs as a minor addition but probably very important ±‘rin a healthful diet standpoint. Migraticns between winter quarters in the canyons at lower elevations and summer hunting and fishing grounds did not require long moves in Wailowa County, Twenty or Thirty miles or less was often sufficient to achieve a complete change of climate and adjust to the seasonal food supply. Family groups, or sub-tribal units, of from four to a dozen families seem to have been the normal number of people moving and living together as a unit. &nall parties of hunters no doubt pene trated into the remote fastness of the mountains and canyons, but the larger groups maintained their main camps near the rivers and camas fields, The locations where ancient artifacts are most abundant bears out this reasoning. The areas near most good springs in the hills and mcuntains, which have good campsites, will usually yield a few arrow heads to the diligent searchers. The favorite camping places along the 11 salmon streams near the camas fields, or near the good huckleberry r fie) de are imioh richer in artifacts. However, in moat of these latter instances the campgrounds are now in cultivated fields* undez’ groves t of tres, or in well grassed areas, which of course makes it difficult r to find these artifacts. The rivers of Wallowa County and some of the Creeks were exceed [ ingly rich in salmon. The Grande Ronde, Wenaha, Wallowa and tmnaha rivas were the big producers of spring, summer and fall runs of the [ various ieos of salmon. The Minam and Lostine rivers were also good r for tome o ha rims, and creeks such as Joseph, Bear Creek at Wallowa, L Big and Little Sheep and the other large tributaries of the Irnnaha were [ high producer There would also have been good hunting for deer and elk r.ear most of t’nee streams. However, big game was ubject to [ perioth of a rxir&nceand periods of scarcity due to various causes but mos ).y to bi die—offs during severe winters. Deer were more suscep.. L tibls to thes die-offs than elk, and modern biologists think that perhaps tho mouain sheep were least susceptible to severe winter [ losses. At any rate the salmon runs were more dependable and pale [ olithic ra, in Wallowa County based his econony primarily on fish. It is not known how long the Nez Perce had occupied the Wallowa Co’untry before the coming of white men. That they occupied this area -, for many g2rlerations is substantiated by tradition. Tradition also vouches for the fact that they came into possession of horses nearly a hundred years before Lewis and Clark’s expedition of 1804 and 1805. The Cayi.e and Nez Perce are thought to have been the first of the tribes of the Inland Empire to acquire the horse. They were a mounted

• people when encountered by Lewis and Clark arid had become expert horse.. men through three or four generations of handling horses. Their manner

This

the

near

be

but

canyon villages

exceptionally

dropping

rugged

habited

small

for

believed

of

upper

hunting

canyon

that

ing

influenced

were

of

prosperous,

of

found

introduction

at

Saddle

subject

Most

their

the

the

life

Pictographs

places

An

in

tribe,

more

most

portion

for

Seven

during

never

village

at

so—c.alled

there.

of

earlier

interesting

into

students

had

that

migration

Creek.

the

easily

the

village

the

were

has

the

Devils,

because

better

become

the

good

owned

the

winter

of

the

main

Sheep

been

of

selection

sites.

are

However,

times

popular

this

nearby

accomplished

of

This

Sheep

Ne

winter

winter

the

sites

many

routes

fed

crossing

greatly

not

Weiser

change

extensively

of

Indian

months.

Eater

Farce

canyon

the

horse

area

the

Eaters, and

plentiful

which

canyons

horses.

with

months

some

range

of

Nez

were

tribe

occurred

and

extremely

a

altered

then

culture

no

their

into

places, was

great

the

can

Perce

had

and

longer

for

Boise

changed

a

because

for

treated

became

too

resorted

They

the

branch

be

tribe

through

been

camping

they

mountain

deal by

of

occupied

in

the

which

difficult

found

Mountains

rugged

area

used

were

this

the

Hells

little

and

expanded

a

in

of

winters.

by

more

of

favorite

the

to

places.

to

Columbia

are

the

possession

and

the

good

Clark

content

the event.

sheep

country

the

the

Canyon.

mobile.

the

reaches

used

not

canyon

of

also

excellent

during

Shoshonees.

their

grass

major

upper

Wissler.

Shoshonean

access

and

Hells

wintering

necessarily

before.

Some

to

They

Basin

they

that

above

of

of

It

many

for

territory.

the

live

Their

portion

reaches

of

Canyon were

horses

and

mountain

can

Hells

is

they

area

their

stumners,

the

small

in

Joel

the

presumed

migratio

This

people.

ground

it

usually

more

the

in

ascriLt..

at

of.this

Canyon

was

old

of

mouth

the

is

horses

V.

iz

or

sheep

the

Some

an camp...

[

L.

r r L

[

[

[

L

[ r

[

r

r

r

L

tide

Columbia

allied

by

Palouses

tribes

Mountains.

territory

of

dislodging

country.

parts

the

occupied

the

west,

and

Shoshonean

Blackfoot

beyond

the

horses

foot

horses

as

tribution

Barreman

the

the

mark

Columbi.

early

east

the

Because

suddenness

with

whites

of

and

up

were

Nez

was

reach

to

took

and

Bannock

of

Lake,

all

the

and

but

The

other

as

elaborates

Perce

became

the

the

raid

The

forced

in

tribes

swept

the

were

of

at

River

over

began 1730

of

Columbia

the

northern of

Oregon

Sahaptin

Harney

Cayuse

other

the

Snake

non..hor9e

of

the

Plains

Oregon

tribes

and

Indians

darrying

almost Cayuse

the

the

or

to

before

the

which

to

horse,

time

Cayuse.

l7IO

prior

move

Sahaptin

on

and

successful

remained

and

territories

and raid

Paiute approach

tribes.

east

of

tribes

were

the

clear

on

was

of

them

Bannock

MaTheur

owning

on

the

the

farther

the

the

the

to

foot.

Lewis

of

subject

held

extensive

pushed

The

were

northern

hitoric

Klickatats,

tribes

Shoshonean

to

from

of

Snakes

south

the

Sahaptin

and

The

aggressors.

tribes

Nez

the

all

invasion,

by

Counties

and

in

west

Within

also

Cascades,

Central the

use

as

farther

Washington

of

Salishan

in

Perce

south

tribes and

Clark.

raiding

records

Shoshonean

to

because

rapidity

with

of

the

of

peoples

turn

people

a

Bannocks

Yakimas,

its

which

horses

Shoshonean

held

a.nd

Oregon,

few

the

Columbia.

north

between

great

except

pushed

They

The

tribes

effects

forays

of

west.

of

years,

south

where

who

being

their

was

of

enabled

Uniatillas,

tribes

the

this

beynd

then

were

success

WaJ.la

with

retreat

a

at

the

the

northern

and

bank

stock.

against

they

area.

strip

on

the

The

however,

original

At

that

pressure

drove

successful

Salishan

the

Dailes

the

Wallas had

tribal

te

tribes

the

fartherst

Snake

because

of

were

to

along

time

exception

acquired

southern

closely

Probably

Blue

the

the

high the

Paiute

distances

the

and

found

dis

and

from

13.-

tribe

with

Black..

in of

(

Wallas

feat

sured

last

tIieir

unable

promptings

never

ons

Basin

people

first

acquiring

This

regained

former

against

Paiutes

Kiamath

They

Willow

along

of

would

Indian

The

the

The

resurgence

interests

able

Sometime

also

and

settloinents

fought

to

continual

the

in

holdings.

Creek.

the

were

Nez and

final

complete

the

unite

they

have pcsession

the

of

to

noted

south

war

Snakes

Modoc

Farce,

with

Deschutes

the

apparently

come

horse

early

owned

location

occurred

in

together

seemed

Lewis

of

warfare

that

bank

trappers

in

defeat

the

Eastern

The

to

tribes

the

and

Cayuse,

and

in

far

Eastern

of

terms

the

of

and

whites

Tenino

to

and

Sahaptin

the

the

the

at

of

learning

against

not

with

more

the

of

demand

held

Nez

Clark

Oregon,

arid

the

the

the

nineteenth

with Cayuse

tJinatilas

most

the

molested.

Columbia

Oregon

and

against

Perce

the

horses

missionaries.

their

tribes

hands

area

noted

peoples

Bannocks

united

the

them

ideal

Warm

to

Snakes

the

and

were

about

use

between

whites

homelands

than

of

the

even

above

and

the

just

Umatilas

Spring

Cayuse,

century

horse

action.

was

the

the

at

and

much

Bannocks

Waila

absence

the

1850,

under

prior

at war

Hood

horse

army

no

there

Bannocks.

range

with

Furthermore,

Snakes

Umatila

sooner

the

a

intact

doubt

with

Wallas

leaves

regained

Even

later

the

River

to

alone.

of

in

and

their

in

tide

in

the

the

continual

and

settlements

battle.

due

than

1878

during

and

the

the

date

have to

the

and

of

They

time

related

Snakes.

Bannocks.

to

much

the

the

Columbia

the

war

Cascades.

and

they

Sahaptin

Waila

when

traditi

their

the

were

of

northern

Uniatilla.

de

in..

of

turned

were

l4

the

tribes

their The 15.

From Memoirs of the r American Antoropological Association “Tribal Distribution in Oregon” L by Joel V. Berreman 1937

Nez Perco This was a large tribe, quite distinct linguisticaily, who were little affected by the Snake invasion. Spinden describes their hold.. ings in Oregon as extending south as far as latitude 4O• On the south west the boundary line circled the drainage basins of the Imnaha and Waiowa Rivers and crossing the Grande Ronde, ran north along the crest of the Blue Mountains to a point on Snake River near the mouth of Tukanon Creek. The bulk of their territory was, 7however in Iththo. Subdivisions or bands of the Nez Perce are said to have cen. tered about one or more viflages and generaily included several fishing camps. These constituted local groups over each of which a single chief, usually a war chief, held some power. Spinden lists five of these local groups in Oregon as follows:

1 Irimama — the Innaha River band.

2. Wal’ama — Wallowa River band.

3. Inantoinu On Joseph Creek.

4. Koiknimapu — above Joseph Creek on the north side of the Grande Ronde River.

5. Icawisnemepu .. near Zindels on the Grande Ronde River — (Zindels was a post office at the mouth of Joseph Creek on the Grande Ronde River) E [ [ F F L [ [ L r

r r

C

Willow

been Murdock’s whselage language leads Arlington umatina

Rivera Hale extends at Columbia

(Lohirn,

the

someImos The

The

says

him

N’here heads

Creek,

living their

was

lower is

Cayuse

was

t recent

their

sufl’iciently

place

claimed they

of

where

a territory

Umatifla

they closely on

trading

headqtiarters the

occupied

information

Willow

lived

the

Mooney us Uniatilla,

by

boundary a

identified

River place almost the

in

distinct

at

Creek

ypce

locates close

Umatilla

this

indicates

in

between and Grande

to

in

at

1841

time connection

the to with the

1870, in

a

that

eference

were

Ronde,

according

class

small

adjacent Uznatila

John

(1840-1850)

the that

when

point.

on

Walla

remnant them Day

with

and

the

the

thay

River,

to and

south

Waila

present to as The

Walla,

the upper

Mooney. the numbered

their a Tenino, of

Uxnatila

bank Nez

separate

Walla

rough

the and

Walla

but

site

own. Perce,

of

Snakes. includes

which

114).

Jacobs

Rivers.

their coimtry

Walla

have the

of

tribe.

16 C

these with heard

during of

for the

get

Some equipvient messages relations care to to

interpreters; the and

through

Perce.

of of

occurred

the

Lewis

Sacajawea,

the Orofino,

by

exploritory it

knew

Columbia

the

The

of of They

The

the strange

Wallowa

the

returned.

Indians

Bitterroot

the the

her

Guided

Wailowa

Lewis

were

and

that

in

first

tales

were

were

were

return

property

Nez

contacts 1804 Idaho,

River. Clark.

people

delivered Nez

they Sacajawea

division

and and

recovered

friendly able by

recorded

told

period

Perce

division

when

trip

This

Perce Mountains

Sacajawea

returned

Clark

were

to

Hungry

and

of

had

with

After

sub-chief,

the

where

in

is

talk

Lewis

may

with

and

to to

approaching

THE

contact

the

party.

been

the

the

of certainly

friendly Lewis

her

a

four and

have

to

Lewis

to as

onto

DAWN

probability

the the

next

the

captive

and

spring

stolen

them

husband

the

far

cold,

translations

and

of

been

property Nez

It

Twisted

original the

OF

Clark

and

spring

Nez

white

as

Indians

after

is

one

some Clark BISTtI

of Perce

but Weippe

Shoshonee, they

present

Clark she

possible

Perce

iarbormeau

and 1805.

of

of with

Twisted

Hair.

of men

the were of

thoughts.

knew

expedition

had

the

they

wondered

their

left

the Prairie

white

through

with one

in lapse

little

At

no

very

welcomed

the

that

The

major

found captive

wonders the

Hair

their

returning

any

direct

the

men

and

country

horses

few

of above

much

Lapwai

difficulty. At

some a

came

was

rate

the tributaries

Nez

was

horses

several

series

Charbonneau

any

cases by

Shoshonee

contact

if

members

about

able

the Lola

dOifli

Perce

they

and

cared and the

to

area

rate, the

during

town

of

in 17

months.

trade

to Nez later Pass

Ut:

of r [ [ r L [ L [

[

1. r [

[

F

I r r

C McClellan he he going Columbia Perce. was the up in Thrncan mouth having fort the from penetrated country Columbia of relations Blackfoot, with for credit favorably himself asked the charge the mouth on commerce friendly On near Cariada--do Not the overland of a Columbia MoDougal, arrived North of January In for as the trading the many and and Nez of of Tongue with the impressed sri foflowed the throughout far Great Nez the the West of Columbia Snake relations Clerk Perce effort years great to there the Columbia as 18, slightly the Perce trip Snake, David settlement Point. hereby Spokane Britain Company the Rivers native as John 1812 as countrr elapsed with explorers to in around where their they

rar Okanogan. to Stuart with keep Thompson the intend River Reed, Astorian ahead Former Lewis House. divert and and of Americans, as had at he around.” ship before epic the the Vancouver Canada the and posted “that that country. with of Astoria to contacted and promised. partners whites. the Astorians found Tonquin journey. partners Palouse Stuart, a David erect the they Clark, eight party the reached Astorians a with Thompson a while Island. notice explorations s a N. were On huge and the in It before however, Canadians, led nephew factory iho the The Donald out W. July the the is having partner Astorians, able by gathering there laid Company exception Nez up of journeyed to Thompson North 8, junction getting David Robert McKenzie, the the in to the Pore. continued 18U the constructed claiming of arrived Alexander this maintain upper West Snake, of everlasting Stuart. the foundation of Stuart recently David were of horses returned Merchants on of place Nez Company, fur the Robert Columbia to the which at up the Thompson good were McKay the traders the and At a for 19 Astoria in two canoes. The men were terribly emanciated from the hardships they had undergone. In the fall of 1810 Donald McKenzie with an inexperienced partner of 1Astor a, named Wilson Price Hunt, had started up the Missouri with fifty odd voyagers, plus hunter

Pierre Dorion, his squaw Marie, and Dorion $ two children. Also along were three more of Astor’s Americant partners; Robert McClellan, Ramsay Crooks and Joseph Miller. At their winter camp on the Missouri a letter from Astor had named Wilson Price Hunt to be in charge of the expedition. This McKenzie had considered a slap in the face as he had expected at least to share the command because of his more extensive experience. During the spring of 1811 the party ascended the Missouri about to the present southern boundary of North Dakota. Then because of reports of the hostile Blackfoot

farther upstream, Hunt decided to go overland and securing 118 horses from the Arikaras and Cheyennes he traversed westward across

western South Dakota and Wyoming to cross through mountain passes into today’s Idaho and on to Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, where Andrew Henry had constructed during the previous year the first post west of the continental divide. Here by the deserted log huts, the party spent nine days hollowing out sixteen canoes from cotton..

wood logs. Partner Joseph Miller and four men withdrew from the company to trap, and with four men left near the Tetons, also to trap, the party was diminished by nine men.

On October 19 the party embarked in the canoes on Henryt a Fork and descended to the Snake. The river became progressivly more turbulent, canoes floundered, precious trade goods and food was

lost, one man was drowned. Fina].ly at Shoshone and Twin Falls the

( canoes were abandoned. An effort was made to send a party back for

t r

[

L

r r

-

unnavigable

structed

They

crossing

and

Snake

likely,

the

a

sumed

adverse

among

Snake

after

more

sections

had

the

what

parties

McKthzie

men

cached

broke

game

and

returned

the

description

they

Snake

must

main

found

went

return

hungry

horses

below

they

by

and

the

or

terrible

up

since

to

the

with

the

would

came

most

friendly

have of

camp

through

and

on

Nez

Coluribia, into

with

game

hoped

keeping

for

Hells

trade

the before

mouths

Salmon, at

down

their

together

in historians

four

of

Perce

have

but

gone

fragments

any

hardships,

word

Henrys

or

United

was

that

their

Canyon

the

stream

goods

Indians.

MclCinzie

Indians.

men

a

winter

make-shift

limited

through to

found

where

which

that

the

journal

It

s

case

Seven

Hunt’s

at

angled

route

States,

Fork

is

in

where

niain

that

as

searching

it

camps

some

they

blocked

traveling

they

they

a

several

equipment.

talked

the

Devils

also

Hunt

would

but

Some

through

and

matter

party?

northward

Columbia.

they

canoes

unknown

the

they

obtained

must

mountains

would

of

Crooks

did

neither

stayed

of

the

be

the

them

river

Mounts

kept

large

for

of

have

came

through

the

John

central

that

impossible

They

undoubtedly

trails.

Nez

point.

regret

a

Furthermore,

who

into

along

in

with

canoes

men

again

By

ins

McCleilan

pits.

route

out

recognized

farther

Reed

they

turned

Perce

the

led

sheer

one

wanted

going

but

Idaho.

the

on

the

that

becomes

None

and

genera],

Meanwhile

and for

could

this

McClellan

the

to

of

along

this

main

northward

to

have

luck

east

ahead.

two

nor

McKinzie

the

descended

the

cross

to

of

they

Clearwater

as party

the

It

have

seems

party

return

the

navigable, the

the

direction

struck

bank companions.

Reed

party,

most

being

is

east,

the

must

the

and

Why

con.

river. soon

parties

three

pre.

and

un

was

of and

kept

rugged

the party

desert

to

the

three

for

add

20 of 21 have crossed the Salmon above the Riggins..Whitebird area since there would also have been camps of1 friendly Nez Perce there. Thus in 1811 the Nez Perce had two brief contacts with white men’, the first since Lewis and Clark. Wilson Price Hunt with most of the remainder of the party finally came through to the Columbia by crossing the Blue Mountains and striking the Columbia near the mouth of the Umatilla. There they secured canoes and descended the Columbia to Astoria arriving on February 15, 18)2. Ramsey Crooks stayed behind on theSnake with John Day who was too

sick to travels A Canadian named Dibreuil also stayed with them.

Crooks and John Day were rescued the next May near the mouth of

John Day River by John Reed and David Stuart’s party enroute down the Columbia from Okanogan. Robert Stuart was sent with dispatches overland to Astor. With him wcnt Crooks and NcCleilen who had had enough of the wild

erness and resigned from the company. On this trip the party foilowed a route which, with some modifications, would later become known as the Oregon Trail. By an extraordinary coincidence they found ex-partner Miller and his trappers in a starving condition and took them back to the States where they arrived in the spring of 1813.

Meanwhile McKinzie established a trading post at the mouth of the Clearwater among the Nez Perce during the summer of 1812. He complained that the Indians did not work bard enough at

trapping the scattered beaver in their homeland. That summer John Reed was sent to salvage the trade goods Hunt had been for ced to cache on the outward trail. He was also to pick up the (. trappers Hunt had left in the general vicinity of the caches. 1. Reed did locate most of the trappers but found that the caches had been opened by the men who used the trade goods to pay friendly [ Indians for food and equipment. AU of the trappers had been r robbed repeatedly by wandering bands of red men and they had nothing to show for their hard work of trapping over a vast area. L Reed took them north with him to McKinzie’ a trading post at the mouth of the Clearwater. Neither Reed nor MclCinzie had much to show for their summers work. Leaving Reed in charge at Clearwater post, McKinzie went to Spokane to consult with his partner John Clarke about the desirability of abandoning the Snake River country L entirely. While there he learned that Great Britain and the United r States were at war and that a British ship had been sent to seize Astoria, Returning in haste to the Clearwater, he cached the post’s goods and taking Reed and all the men, desôended the Snake and Colwnbi.a in mid-January 1813 to warn Duncan McDougal of the eneiay’s plaxis. The two partners decided to go overland to St. Lewis taking as much fur as possible They set July 1 as the date, r’ 4 and the rendezvous for June 1, at the mouth of the Walla Wafla River. Meanwhile McKinzie and Reed returned to the Clearwater, and sent word to Clarke at Spokane, to begin trading for the three or four hundred horses that would be necessary for the overland trip. McKinzie had trouble trading for horses. The Indians had robbed some of his caches and he and Reed used high handed methods in recovering the goods, forceably entering tepees, slashing open packs and other potential hiding places. The Indians agreed to return his goods if be would stop this destruction. However, they refused to barter horses for goods, being resentful of the methods used to recover the trade goods. McKirizie then took to pointing r to the horse he wanted, offering a fair price and after being re fused would shoot the animal dead, He always paid for the horse (after which his men ate the meat) but the Indians disliked thid way of dealing and after some further trouble consented to do business. Clarke also had trouble which culminated in an episode

whIch occnu’red on the way to the rendezvous. An Indian stole a silver goblet. Clarke hanged the guilty Indian in front of the inhabita’ts of the village at which they were overnight guests. Word of ‘iz act spread swiftly to other villages and as the trappers gathered at th rendezvous large numbers of Indians began gathering nearby. Their attitude became more and more threatening and the trappers were waried by a chief that the Indians planned a mass attack. The trappers broke camp during breakfast, abandoning what horses they had accumulated and some of their goods. They paddled hurric]ly for Astoria. Here they found John George McTavish

and some tw.nty North Westerners who had come down from Spokane ahead of them aiid were waiting for the British ship to seize the place. The ship was long overdue and they began to wonder if the story was a hoax. They alec, found out that trade had been good elsewhere. Sevcintoen packs of beaver from the Wiilamette and a hundred and forty from Okanogan and the upper river. David Stuart and Clarke began to object to abandoning the territory, they said that sufficinet horses could not now be obtained from the angry Indians in time to cross the mountains before winter, and recom.. mended tiat the company remain. McKinzie and NoDougal feared that they had been abandoned by Astor and wanted to leave at all costs. Finaily a compromise was reached. They would trade for one more (

[

r

[

F-’ L

r fl

L. -.

- fl r

r

at

trappers

This

men

for

Islands

and

foilowing to

where

then

send the

plications

Astor.

market

Is.ands

rich

with

worked

to

Flatbeads.

promised

with

Spokane

they year

Astoria

abandon

to

the

McDougal

he

the

Astorians,

chartered the

he Mea.:whil’,

cargo meat.

be

would

the

and

proceeded

fail and

with

with

the

Flathead

This

to

arrived

Issac

assembled

and

July.

under

the

North

then

Astoria

charter

rafit

or

Wilianette

by

Astor

with

to

tha

lava

several

David

among

Astorians

irr

the

Todd

but

another

many

if

the

Westerners

furs

Hunt

Hunt

on

to

country

tho

the

was

the

a

if

ship

Hunt

from

Stuart

th&

another

August

command

to

do.

unfortunate had

supply

partners

and

stipulation

finally

Astor 1

ship.

had

not

country.

and

take

fur

Kootenays.

Albatross

heard

the

a

been

Meanwhile,

and

waited

voyaged

hurried

years

able

20,

set

company

to

ship.

ship

a

of

over

far

Huht

Reed

agreed

compelled

supply

of

of

relinquish

1813.

up

John

to

reaches

free

incidents

for

The

did

the

the

the

that

sent

to

and

hunting

to

back

get

(The

and

In

George

large

the

Astorians

reluctantly

not

Alaska,

ship

North

American

the

proposed

hand

There

sailed

a

return,

he

the

to

could Albatross

to

of

ship

expected

arrive

upper

would

their

did

camps

reinforcc

Okanogan,

at

and

ship

sail

McTaviW. West

the

he

traded

for

not

to Okanogan

not

post

British

the

international

also

learned

Snake.

Columbia

trading

go

on by

for

to

Company

the

with

the

wait

was

supply

arrive

North

to

to

July

supply

at

made

the

for

ents

Clarke

relief

Columbia

chartered

the

the

McKinzie

They

Astoria.

project

and

for

of

McKinzie

posts

1,

Hawaiian

fabulously

arrived

Westerners

Basin.)

a

ship

by

of

Hawaiian

china

the

Astoria

among

the

deal

1811i,

raised

returned

of

the

com.

at

from

plan

to

He the - 25 the Union Jack at their camp close alongside the fort at Astoria,,

I Relations were friendly and trade was carried on between the two companies whose nations were at war with each other. In view of the precarious position of the Astorians, and i probably because of old friendships between the principle partners of the rival companies, a deal was arranged between MoDougal of. the Astorians and McTavish of the North Westerners, whereby, the - Astorians sold to the North West Company ail their trade goods at

approximately 10% above the cost, their 17000 lbs. of beaver and - two thousand other skins for $40,000.00 and e salaries of the Astorian workers would be assumed by the North Westerners. Also, places provided for those men who wished to switch allegiance to - the North Westerners. On October 16, 1813 the deal was closed. The British frigate Racoon finally arrived and with appropriate ceremony, Captain Black took possession of Astora, renaming it -i Fort George on December 13, 1813. Runt finally returned on the last day of February,. 1814 to find that his company had. been sold and that Astoria was now in - possession of the British. There was nothing he could do, so on April 3, 1814 he left the Columbia in the brig Pedlar for home with such men as chose to return by ship.

A few days later about ninety overlanders, both Astorians and North Westerners started up the Columbia for Athabaska Pass and Canada. Near the mouth of the Walla Walla an Indian woma&s - voice hailooing in French stopped them. They found Marie Dorion, Pierre TDorion wife and her two children. She told them that thes mouth of the Boise River in southern Idaho, hostile near Indians had killed John Reed. and his nine men, including her husband (

‘and

NcKinzie

of

West amette

seasons. could

the was characters.

fur Canadian accepted

Canada. Canada established increased

arid nd].y ‘winter turn

while bad

In

the

March

in

Oregon bearing

frequent,

it

escaped.

The

Company

With

to

Indians

be

they

New

Company.

and

where

is

living

her

was

partners

carried

voyagers

practice

The Bay

she

between

the hoped

York

Cowlits

Country.

were

animal.

Hudson’s

people,

the

Their

sent

the

scene Company

had

on

debauchery

Astorians

on

She

had

that

the

trapping

NcKinzie man

out

competition

the

crossed

of

more

east to

the

had

wanton

so

of

asked

the

Columbia.

to the

Many

in

was The

strip

Bay

she

smoked

enraged

intense two

remained

and

of

-bring

those

now

lowas.

North

fur

of

firmly was

Company the

and

had Astor

crimes of the

British

more

sections

the

out

meat

war these

verged

mountains eventuaily

that

left

order the rich

continental

rivalry

West

hidden

She

for

Abenaki

Indians

entrenched

of

She

against

kept

and

of

Indians

companies,

only

Astoria

were

fur

was

the

a

into

Compriy

of on

accompanicd

two

the

job

the

lay

in

areas

the

actual

Oregon an

and

she

undependable and

commonplace,

able

horses

the

the

North

the

with

there

divide best

principafly

Iowa

overland

country throuhout

found

and

decided

Iroquois

natives Columbia

for

the

to

Blue

warfare.

Country,

the

West

of

and

that

her

that

return the

the

and

older refuge

the

Mountains

American

wanted of

two

in

that

Company.

overlanders,

she

next no

and of the Indians

and

in

Department

French

every

eastern

April

more

rivalry

to

children

trapping

the

Western

Bloodshed

with

had

Donald

lawless

North

it

few

her

to

WiU Fur

possible became

firmly

killed. al].

1814

to

re

frie—

people. The

26 27 Company, but Astor had turned him down on account of his part in (‘ selling Astoria to the North West Company. Now the North West Company partners offered him the munificent salary of 500 pounds a year to see what he could do about increasing the fur trade in their Columbia Department. McKinzie accepted the offer and in the fail of 1816 returned across the Athabasica Pass to Astoria, now Fort George. NcKinzie’ s plan to split the Columbia Department into coastal and inland districts met strong opposition by James Keith who was in charge at Fort George. McKinzie had been specifically requested to exploit the Snake River area and this would dra man power and goods from Fort George, besides reducing the prestige of James Keith, moreover, the Snake area Indians were hostile, they were reluctant to do what they considered the slave labor of trapping and the beaver colonies were widely scattered. So said James Keith. However, he gave NcKinzie a motley assortment of Iroquois, flawaiians and the less able—bodied voyagers. McKinzie then spent two years trading and exploring the country and building up good

will among the tribes. He had himself contributed to the hostile feeling of the Indians during his unfortunate experience in buying horses from the Nez Perce for the abandonment of Astoria. In June of 1818 NcKinzie returned to Fort George with a plan

that shocked John Keith. McKinzie proposed to take his own men in large brigades into the fur country and, moving from point to point, to trap the beaver themeelvee since the. inland tribes could not be persuaded to work at trapping. He also planned to build a new post on the Snake at the mouth of the Walla Walla River. Off.. C icial orders were received trozu Fort William for Keith to comply with NcKinzie’s request. Keith reluctantly turned over to McKinzie 28

one hundred men and g’eat quantities of supplies. McKinzie then built Fort Nez Perce at the moith of the Waija Walla River. togs had to be floated to the site from the mountains by armed parties. Indians demanded exorbitant prices for the mat.. terials being used for construction, but McKinzie irially settled these claims and made peace with the Nez Perce and associated

tribes. He also won their promise that they would make treaties of peace with the Snakes, their hereditary enemies. Fort Nez Perce was protected by an outer wall nearly 20 feet high and by an inner wall 12 feet high. There were bastions and galleries with loop.

hole balustrades. Two large water tanks were added as protection

against attack by fire • Trade was carried on through a wicker cut in the main gate and no Indians were allowed inside the fort except for special councils. McKinzie left Alexander Ross in charge of the new fort. Ross cafled the gigantic McKinzie “Perpetual Motion.” His enerr was

boundless, “To travel a day’s journey on snowshoes was his delight, but he detested spending five minutes writing in a journal. His traveling accounts were often kept on a beaver skin, written hieroglyphically with a pencil or piece of coal.” The history of the Northwest would be much richer, and particularly that of the Snake River Country, if Donald McKinzie had kept a good record of his work and observations. The brigades included many Indian wives of the trappers which McKinzie allowed to be taken along for morale building purposes and to convince the native tribes of his peaceful intentions, also the wonen tended the camps and dressed the furs, leaving the men f trap.. He szed it well worth the extra supplies and horses necessary. The brigades only stayed long enough to trap, n any one locality until, the cream of the crop was skimmed off and trapping success diminished, then the brigade moved camp to the next vafley. The majority of McKinzie’s trappers were Iroquois who were often unreliable and required strict dicipline. The men were safe from the native tribes while in brigade strength

but stragglers were always in danger. Two Sandwich Islanders

were killed along the Owyhee River in Southeastern Oregon. This

river bears the name Owyhee from this happening. (Hawaii was

spelled Owyhee at that time.) McKinzie’ $ pack trains bringing supplies to the brigades nd taking furs to the fort had many close calls and skirmishes. McKinzie trapped as far east as the Tetons and Jackson Hole. Bear River yielded rich catches of beaver as did many streams in

Southern Idaho, and Eastern Oregon. On one trip to Fort Nez Perce he had to round up one hundred and fifty four horses to pack the furs. In July 1921 McKinzies five year contract was up. He stayed at Fort Nez Perce with Alexander Ross until apring and then left the country, never to return. TMcKinzie influence in the Snake River country was very pronounced.s He laid the foundation for better relations with the Nez Perce and related tribes during his last five years in the area, overcoming to a large extent the previous blunders of him self arid, the Astorians. He established better relations with the Snake and Bannocks although white stragglers were not safe in their country. Meanwhile, great changes took place elsewhere during this time and before McKinzie left, the great rival fur companies, Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company, combined under the name of Hudson’s Bay Company 30 It was during NcKinzie last five years in the Columbia

1 ‘West Company a shadowy figure Department for the sNorth that appears on the pages of history, whose influence was profound on the

Flathead tribe and the Nez Perce tribe and to a lesser degree on all the Shahaptan tribal relatives of the Nez Perce. Bancroft mentions him as Ignace, and Iroquois Indian

Evangelist who appeared among the Flatheads in 1816. He preached a highly ethical religion with elements of the Catholic faith intermingled with those of Protestantism. He was the first man to systematically endeavor to convert these people to Christianity.

He told them of the Great Father, the Creator of aU things, and of the white tman a book, the Bible, that taught all men how to live if they wished to reach the spirit land after death. Tribal tradition among the Flatheads, Nez Perce, Yakinias and Cayuse toil of the great throngs that gathered to bear him preach. This man evidently spent several years among these tribes and, instilled a deep sense of religion into these people, already of a higher moral character than many of the northwest tribes. Subsequent explorers remarked about the unexpected high morals and religious attitudes among these tribes. Wyeth the fur trader ‘wrote, “I know not of their religion. I saw no images or objects of worship, and yet they do not hunt nor gamble, but mope around on Sunday. There certainly appeared among them honor and a sense of 3ustice.” Townsend was amazed at their religious character, he wrote, “I was never more gratified by an exhibition of worship in my 1life.T Bonneville said, “They are very devotional and will not move their lodges or labor on Sunday.” ( This is probably the background cause that impelled the Nez per pack; A. M. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 31 packs. This year A. H. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 44 packs, and sustained great loss in horses taken by the Auricenis; again the same party lost 17 men by desertion taking each 2 horses and six traps. As to the Indians, that the Pai.inees reside on the lower Platte in several bands amounting to about 1200 warriors, they are well mounted, and war with the Crows, the Sioux, Shians, and AuricenIs, make their hunting grounds in the Black Hills. 2500 Sioux, 400 Shians, 1600 Auricenis, they reside on the Missouri and wage war upon the Crows and Pawnees. They are extremely war like and are well mounted. The Crows’ horses range upon the Yellowstone and headwaters of the Platte, about 1500 strong in three viflages, fight with the Black Foot and the Arepehoes. The Crows have good horses and I believe the best buffalo country in the world. The Arepehoes range upon the heads of the Arkansas and Canadian and are very numerous, fight also with the Shoshones. The Shoshones, a poor, unwarlike race, some few who have arxn andhorèszveture to descend into the plains in villages but they are generally dispersed by twos and threes into the mountains without horses, without arms but the stone point arrow, and depending upon their numerous dogs to take the mountain sheep. They are met with in almost every mountain running from everybody and are termed “Diegere de PitieN ie. Worthy of Pity. They will steal and kill whenever a good opportunity offers. Their villages are generally more friendly, tho dangerous to be met alone. They range about the Salt Lake. The Baocks in villages abit 400 warrrs mostly afoot live bot the fails of Lewis River. There, during the summer months 32

THEHUDSON’SBAYCCZ1PANY

Under the joint occupancy treaty between Great Britain and the United States, both nations were entitled to occupy the Oregon Country, The Hudson’s Bay Company being on the ground with strategically lo.. eated forts-and tradg posts had a tremendous adntage over the Americans, who had no forts at all in the Oregon Country. However, J it seems that most reasonable men in the governments of both countries expected that eventually the Oregon Country would be divided on i compromise basis along the Columbia River as a boundary line, The country north and west of the river to be British and south and east -J to be American Meny America, no doubt chiefly for bargag. -J purposes, advocated taking over the Oregon Country all the way to the southern edge of Russian held Alaska, at latitude fifty-four degrees and forty minutes. Meanwhile Great Britain offered the Columbia River as a suitable international boundary line. -J After the consolidation of the North West Company with the Hudson’s Bay Company in l829 for a few years it seems that the affairs of the company in the Oregon Country suffered for lack of a strong capable leader. The Company directors in 1824 sent young George Simpson to initiate: new policies in the Oregon Country. make

necessary personnel changes and otherwise place the Columbia Dep... artmnt on a paying basis. In addition, he was directed, as a matter of ujnost importance, to deter the advance of the Ameran

— 1and trappers by bunting bare the approaches to the Columbia, thus removing the Americ’s incentive to push across the continental

divide Concurrently, he was to enter actively into the sea trade - to drive out the Yankee sea peddlers. Finally, he was to abandon Fort George (Astoria) which was on the south bank of the Columbia

escorted

Jedediah

Roasts

River

Snake

Alexander

plant

United

clean the

the

Vancouver

instructions

thirty—one

he

(Astoria)

policies.

Columbia

arrived

far

disliked,

the

there

was

flel

and

built

Russians;

long

On

flung

Indians

Company.

country,

further

locate

gardens-...änd

of

Simpson

Iroquois

of

States

build

the

the

Smith,

at

fur

neglected

latitude

Ross

a

about

on to

domain.

as

head

way

fort

McLaughlin

Fort

destitute

a

bearing

which

March

a

for

the

ordered

territory

the

finish

selected

because

as

temporary

with

permanent

of

back

six

of and

George,

McLaughlin.

new

brigade

man

everything

somewhere

keep

coastal

led

19,

cattle

miles

About

six

across transferred

animals

building

to

establishment

best

Iroquois

of

selected

John

the

1825.

those

Americans,

post

select

where

central

alleged

leader

above

send

October

and

qualified

trade;

Snakes

the

McLaughlin,

near

the

they

on

expenses

Fort

Stop

Simpson

seventeen

other

they

to

a

the

continental

a

the

the

of

country

depot

the

high

site

new

10,

Ross t s

open

possessed.

to

Langley

then

ail

which

the

mouth

proceeded

north

moveable

brigades

to

mouth

robbing

site 1824,

well

left

handed

down

business,

and

traffic

trappers

be

a

appeared

hogs,

between

camp.

Simpson

of

man

bank

on

put

western

I

on

north

these

of

divide

Simpson

the

a

tactics

goods,

the

to

whom

south

the

the

The

from

in

in

detached

of

Ross

working

Willamette

initiate

the

if

on

final of

christened

north

charge

Fraser;

Frazier

alcohol;

American the

Simpson

he

headquarters

Fort

toward

and

possible,

the

the

including

then

Columbia

with

personally

Columbia.

definite

bank

McLaughlin

49th

scene

portion

George

the

of

the

River

let

sweep

certain

fired

California;

develop

trapper,

where

this

Fort

Snake

of

para

new

and

with

them

and

the

for

and

33

of He -I

Bay

served conservation

Americans,

this

settlers. to and

next supplies whirlwind

Canadians of plished

Columbia Ogden, to and were. became to with the

accompany

Simpson’s

the

the

supervise

our

Compary

Ogden

the

Americans

However,

way

decade

In Simpson any

to

time

with Oregon

knowledge a

the territory his

of

and

had

alien

school

alienate

held

and

of

warning

him

it

had

when life.

desired only

large

place

of

raising

been

activity

the

took

was the

Iroquois country.

of back

back

trappers previously

fur

teacher

the

stragglers

creating

of

scouting

policy

to

made

brigades

Ross of

Simpson

that

to

When

to

bearing

the

result

the

be

decline

the

the

a

during

flathead

by

back so

Ross

large

by

the

American

He

and early that

of

prices

Americans

reducing unprofitable

put

of the

enjoyed

missionaries

did

and

operating

wildlife

ruthless

Oregon

would

was to later

of

the a

he

degree

Peter

Oregon

country

this

the

fur

the

Post

profits

paid

might

to

mountain

years

venture

wrote

from

country

the

desert

east Red have southwestern

by

Skeen

on

the

in trapping

them

out

Country.

for

encounter.

charges insuring 1825 for

River

the

the

the

and

in

no

of the

good

of

xuen

for

across

between

Ogden

furs

was

the

trapping

the

association

Clark

Indian

Snake

land

through

Fort book

Settlements

will

without

for

furs.

later

fur to

which

continental

the

approaches

as

hungry

it which

Nez

Fork,

River

many

the

the

Simpson

tribes

that

trade

brigade

loyalty

to

that

1828,

occupied Thus,

Perce

they

regard

trappers

Columbia

years,

the

added

despite

whatsoever

the

drainage

pioneer

out

during where

throughout

accom

no

suspected

McLaughlin

heart

divide. leader to

in

Hudson’s

of

to

dated

doubt

greatly

by

in

the

a

his

for he River

the

fact, C

C

of

archives MeComb on

particular

on. artment.

had wagons Wyeth,

was captain

through denied

Island American Hal]. Captain Americans

that on friendly John overland

the

his

the

a

cared

Of

Meanwhile

McLaughlin.

During Jackson

area.

On

commission

War

return

on

across

back

the at

Columbia

interest

on

B. South

October

of

welcome trappers

to

July

Since

the

by for

Department

historical

extended L.

hospitality

the

on Fort This the

Kelley most

to

the mouth E.

Pass at

29,

his

in

War

his

winter

and

29,

the

now

to

Bonneville

Fort Vancouver

for in

Continental 1832 Wyeth

in of

1833.

as

second

Department.

trip look leave

of

1832 THE turn, cane supplying

States,

is

the the the

that

interest,

far Vancouver,

while

the

of

of

a

planned

FIRST

into

over

up

Rocky

Nathaniel

first

Indian

This

report

to

as

trip, the

l83435 resulted

he

Willainette.

where

took

from

could

Wyeth

catch

Green

had

the

the

Divide.

Hudson’s

trade

OF

report

Mountains.

advance

it

was

tribes to

It

submitted

twenty but

they THE California.

been

Oregon

Oregon

swing

not

will

furs was

Wyeth River.

make

in

will

building

goods

Ewing

AMERICANS

was

received

setting

authorized

convince

Bonneville

movement

enroute Bay

of

be

for wagons

Young

a

be

Country

Country

and

lost

business

the and

to treated

Youngts

These

Company.

recalled

himself

a 10

jor

with

Snake Kelly1

the equipment

for

across to post

the

the

followers of

in

were for

to

was

the

stage

years

in

party hospitality the

of seven

changed

General

1834

and

River

or.

take

that

the

Nathaniel being

detail

an the the

Columbia,

curing

Wapato

later

company

to

for

among

War

is

were

army

men

his

Bonneville,

plains,

first

country.

caine

the

sick,

personnel

Alexander

of

a

farther

Dep

arid

salmon

extended

the

of

and have turn which have

collecting Washington. too the heart Columbia in letter, travels Columbia, expected. General: leave exist. from during is interviews interceded Irving,

the

the

much Yellowstone,

been at

presumed

This This

information

will

of

and

Cottonais

this only

present

wrote which

are

and upon

the

laughable

I he country is

•

certain certainly As

in

have

known, period authentic

Rocky going Miss

a It could

this your yet, his

his

is

copy

could

is

the therefore Country the

secured

Elsie behalf

I famous

much,

information to Mountains, not I goodness of

from

in

made

as find

be may property Platte,

have

the

anxiously

report

the

the get

in

Little this

were

book

and and from from say is

South

extreme. afforded the

remained.

reinstated

journals

much to

New the book I by ordered

I a or Bonneville’s of “The

respecting

have made course explore

West

not waiting

photostatic

Bonneville

Lolidorlo,

more

in Colorado Juuge

that

Adventures

but aware were

other actually the

toward I his

of until I extensive

have

the E.

our Crow

half

hope that translation.

next

reinstatement. lost..

how words, this

V. of

himself North knowledge

journals

constantly to

California President

Country copy

a Wind

the visited, the I KuykendaU

desirous fall.

of

winter

story, have country,

than This

West,

author, of the Captain of

River

July

that

not the the and

head

I I of following

which

Andrew

only, on

you would kept

on and could 29,

personal

and Bonneville trespassed is of original Columbia

Washington

Bonneville” It

the

my waters

known are Pomeroy, the 1833

was

would my e the

Jackson not return, have Lower

journal,

36 report re.. of

to

of

s -4 -‘ —, — —

-

Waila

men

reduced

Colvifle, handsomely

quently

but

old which

eighty

four

their

smallest

the

are

there

which

selves

bringing

equal

and

deem

Oregon,

this

making

of

there

they

settlements

Wafla

Hudson 2 s

extremely

every

Wallah

men

views

is

numerous

a

much;

would

The

abound

men.

to

by

remain

for

Subaltern’s

daily

are

to

strongly

force.

keep

another

the

provisions

the

fire Wailah

thing

built, information

of

the

and

oppose-:aU

that

be

generally

Here

Baby

seoner

there

task,

our

off

peaceable

about obserrations

small

or

as

next

manned

Colvifle

I

They

port

but

if

Company,

a

they

built

government.

opposition ‘want

supposed

safe

port

during

yet

command

it’

our

year

a

to

posts

garrisoned

have

upon

I

year.

by

distributed

have

trading

shall

of

as

last

and

I

have

government

and

still

do

could-

would

half

wood

who

one

the

a

the

ever

could

of

farms,

capable

not

equal

honest,

late

and

trading

be

already

are

hundred

higher

courses,

summer

breeds,

Although

vessels,

North

which

subsist

recommend

exceed

to done

by

trade.

be

June

to

themselves

as

mills

offer

ever

only

of

interesting.

or

post

enforce

the

Fork,

obtained

they

up

and

trapping

either

could

Indians,

a

3,000

from

country,

themselves

a

another

intend

3

on

and

garrison

better

the

The

fall,

a

Subaltern’s

at

obtained

to

is

the

full

the

then

every

the

all

least

returns

skins,

too

from

.5

authorizes

also

companies

taking

men

left

and

and

above

and

Indians,

establishments

company,

mouth,

the

much

live

of

the

well.

convenience

violence

feeble,

may

from

farming

some

which

at

bank

one

instructions

from

Vancouver command

possession

expanded

Indians

upon

present

easily

of

the

who

Canadians, hundred

me

and

Five

of

whichby

may

Vancouver,

three

3

for

the

to

to

drift,

Columbia,

fre

to5

in

is

be

who

be men

of

I

by

the

of

say

them—

salmon

fine,

and

or of 1_’_’ —

the

the men.

foot 30 were, 100 by

it the Missouri;

Woolens

on ctures carriage and

named greatest deluged obtain north fertile country. immense. Columbia, considered so

men

in

the

stealth.

anxious

fig

same men,

American

their

Indians

The

The

The

1810,

to

here,

of

who

by

Colorado,

from

orrz

at at and

time

history

gradually

steal

of abundance

Hudson

Columbia

A.

they every

other the

These

remained

half

trifling the to

trapping

the

their the

extensive

M.

on

Far

of

visit. lands

their

even

rise

Lewis

the

means Company Americans,

Wallamet,

articles

price,

Bay are

Mml.

of the

Company.

Indians and

increasing

and

Yellowstone.

about

this

speak

at

are the for of

and

Head own

River

and

in vallies

As from

at

present

the flour

about

their

countries of

trading,

their country fur,

aT to

Jones

5

waters

trifling

of at

runs

that So

river,

the towards

and

years

trade

the

making

and.

$1

1816

to you

making

expe,

in

power,

best, have

through

with

on

the

prime

cultivation

thóir

is

of tobacco

the

Mr. then

generally

see, reaching

but

I

the

sent

expense,

the

this,

latter a the

have

every

about

world,

secret

the

Henry

fort not

the

cost,

three

totally

present

the

but

one

Californias

i1.

Arkansas,

not

timber they

first

Multnomah on

advantage

80

Americans

have

on

them

from of

also

employing rendezvous

wheat,

compared

of shells

forks

and

the

yet

men,

the

raise, the

defeated number

the

the

to

by

New

abundant,

entered

Jones

Columbia,

examined

Big

the

most

built

of

water avoid

bottoms

they their

corn

Hudson

over Colidorio or,

have

to

horses

the

between

of

Horn

Platte,

with

and beautiful,

by

the

as and fish

forts

about it

their

the returns

in

Missouri,

to,

but

and

the

Bay

trading to but

of

it

about about

land

the

tobacco they

Americans.

for,

80

to

as the now

the

it oppose is

on Black...

280

entered

even

stru

38

and

the

it are

is

am

c

-and

company

years

deavor

beaver

and

order

great

has

then

their

winter

and.

the

Platte,

came

80

Bridges,

out

and

horses,

by

them

Lewis wa

General

even-their

horses,

to

opened

the

Vanderburgh

greater

The

retired to

Gantt

Sablette

is

also

to

quantities

in

number

to

the

increases

90

in

River,

got

their

Arepehoes

said

there

keep a

above

120

ascertain

Ashley

men.

Frep.

their

Iroquois

defeated

firm

a

cane

lost

part

This

trade

to

head.

to

to

alive

who

clerks

successeserdisasters.

on

lost

I

in

Drips,

and

up

the

2

160

be

offering

in

came

so

of

think

the

of

country

year

raised

on

1821

with

in

and

each

as

the

rapidly by

all

furs

so

Farris

head

Ashley

men.

their

and

the

point

in

1831

rich

the

many

will

Fontenette,

trapping

their

deep

with

their

the

with

others

must

best

waters

their

headwaters

their

may

Blackfoot

merchandise

who

with

then

of

as

that

companies

give

Camanche,

snow

about

furs,

about

be

horses

have

trappers.

fighting

at

now

number

hunting

services

of

about

sold

sent

any

said

you

first.

finally

been

75

Pilcher,

remain

the

subsequently

50

of

part Indians

by

a

down

out

at

men,

at

the

to

50

men,

and

tolerably

Arkansas,

the with

Last

grounds

the

taken

to

present

such

Fitzpattrick,

130

men, to

The

dispersed.

permitted

in

Arepehoes

about

packing

reached

met

Colorado,

the

Arepehoes,

Vanderburgh

his

year

them,

on

the

men,

companies

from

great

mostly

the

A.

and

Three

himself

150

clerks

to

where

country

correct

Fitzpatrick’s

who

however,

N.

their

the

the

to

Hudson

to-

be

expense

and

packs,

and

afoot,

Forks.

C.

Drips,

in

conceal

rest

poor,

then

head

Younger

country

Smith,

I

therefore

and

was

Shians.

increased

men

with

idea

1830 lost

understand

Bay

took

60

three

caching

of

Benjamin

in

deafeated

done

Fontenette

in

but

In

about

of

all

Jackson

sold

on

skins

theirs

the

men

in Sablette,

the

fron 1825

the

little

en

his he per pack; A. M. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 31 packs. This year A. N. C. and ?itzpatricks appear to have each about 44 1packs and sustained great los5 in horses taken by the Auricenis; again the same party lost 17 men by desertion taking each 2 horses and six traps. As to the Indians, that the Pawnees reside on the lower Platte in several bands amounting to about 1200 1warriors they are well mounted, and war with the Crows, the Sioux, Shians, and Auricenis, make their hunting grounds in the Black Hills. 2500 Sioux, 400 Shians, 16o0Auricenis, they reside on the Missouri and wage war upon the Crows and Pawnees. They are extremely war like arid are well mounted.

The Crowst horses range upon the Yellowstone and headwaters of the Platte, about 1500 strong in three villages, fight with the Black Foot and the Arepehoes. The Crows have good horses and I believe the best buffalo country in the world. The Arepehoes range upon the heads of the Arkansas and Canadian. and are very numerous, fight also with the Shoshones. The Shoshones, a poor, unwarlike race, some few who have arns andhorsès venture to descend into the plains in villages but they are generally dispersed by twos and threes into the mountains without horses, without arms but the stone point arrow, and depending upon their numerous dogs to take the mountain sheep. They are met with in almost every mountain running from everybody and are termed Diegere de PitieW is. Worthy of Pity. They will steal and kill whenever a good: opportunity offers. Their villages are generally more friendly, tho dangerous to be met alone. They range about the Salt Lake. The Bannocksin vi --ages about 400 warriors mostly afoot live about the falls of Lewis River. There, during the summer months L TEE HUDSON’SBAT CCMPAN

Under the joint occupancy treaty between Great Britain and the United States, both nations were entitled to occupy the Oregon Country. F The Hudson’s Bay Company being on the ground with strategically b.. eatedforts-and trading posts had a tremendous advantage over the Americans, who had no forts at all in the Oregon Country. However F it seems that most reasonable men in the governments of both countries expected that eventually the Oregon Country would be divided on I L compromise basis along the Columbia River as a boundary line. The country north and west of the river to be British and south and east F to be American. Many Americans, no doubt chiefly for bargaining. purposes, advocated taking over the Oregon Country all the way to the southern edge of Russian held Alaska, at latitude fifty-four degrees and forty minutes. Meanwhile Great Britain offered the Columbia River as a suitable international boundary line. j After the consolidation of the North West Company with the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1829, for a few years it seems that the affairs of the company in the Oregon Country suffered for lack of a strong capable leader. The Company directors in 1824 sent young George Simpson to initiate.; new policies in the Oregon Country, make

necessary personnel. changes and otherwise place the Columbia Dep.. artmçmt on a paying basis. In addition, he was directed, as a matter of uuost importance, to deter the advance of the American 1and trappers by hunting bare the approaches to the Columbia, thus removing the Americam’ s incentive to push across the continental divide Concurrently, he was to enter actively into the sea trade to drive out the Yankee sea peddlers. Finally, he was to abandon Fort George (Astoria) ihich was on the south bank of the Columbia

L. L E [

U r

r [

n

L r

[ r -- escorted Jedediah Rossrs River Snake Alexander plant United the clean the Vancouver instructions thirty—one he (Astoria) policies. Columbia arrived far disliked, the there was lie], and built Russians; long On flung Company. Indians further locate country, gardens—-.änd of Simpson Iroquois of States build the the Smith, at fur neglected latitude a Ross about to on domain. as head way McLaughlin fort Fort destitute a hearing a March which for ordered the territory; the finish selected temporary because as with permanent of back six and of George, McLaughlin. new brigade man somewhere everything keep coastal 19, led miles cattle About six across transferred building animals to establishment best Iroquois of selected John 1825. the those Americans, post select where central alleged leader above send October and qualified trade; Snakes the McLaughlin, near the they on expenses Fort Stop Simpson seventeen they other to a the a continental the the of country depot the site high new 10, Ross t s open possessed. to Langley then ail which mouth the proceeded north moveable brigades to mouth robbing site 1824, weil left handed down and business, traffic trappers be a appeared hogs, between camp. Simpson of man bank on put western I on north of these divide Simpson the a tactics the goods, to whom south the the The from in in of detached Ross Willamette working initiate the if of on final christened north charge Fraser; Frazier alcohol; the American Simpson he headquarters Fort toward and possible, the the including Columbia then with personaily Columbia. definite bank McLaughlin L49th scene portion George the of the River sweep let certain fired California; develop trapper, where this Fort of Snake para new an with them and the for and of He C

Bay

served

conservation

Americans,

this settlers. to and

next supplies whirlwind

Canadians of pushed

Columbia to Ogden, arid were. became to the

accompany

with

Simpson’s

the

the

supervise

our

Conpany

Ogden

the

Americans

However, way

decade

In

any Simpson

to

time

Oregon with

knowledge a

the territory

his

of

and

had

alien

school

alienate

held

and

of

warning

him

it

had

when

life.

desired only

large

place

of

raising

been

activity

the

took

was the

Iroquois

country.

back of

back

previously

trappers

fur

teacher

the

stragglers

creating

of

scouting

policy

to

made

brigades

of Ross

Simpson

that

to

When

to

bearing

the

result

the

be

decline

the

the

a

during

Plathead

by

so

back

Ross

large

by

the

American

He

and early that

of

prices

Americana

reducing

unprofitable

put

of

the

enjoyed

missionaries

did

and

operating

wildlife

ruthless

Oregon

would

later to was

of

a the

he

degree

Peter

Oregon

country

this

the

fur the

Post

profits

paid

might

to

mountain

years

venture

wrote

from

country

the

east desert

southwestern Red have

by

Skeen

on

the

in trapping

them

out

Country.

for

encounter.

charges insuring for 1825

River

the

the

the

and

in

of no the

good

of

men

for

across

between

Ogden

furs

was

the

trapping

the

association

CLark

Indian

Snake land

through Fort

book

Settlements

will

without

for

furs.

later

to fur

which

continental

the

approaches

as

hungry

it Ne3

which

Fork,

River

many

the

the

Simpson

tribes

that

trade

brigade

loyalty

to

that

1828,

occupied

Thus,

Perce

they

regard

trappers

Columbia

years,

the

whatsoever

added

despite

the

drainage

pioneer

out

where during

throughout

accom

no

suspected

McLaughlin

heart

divide. to

leader

in

Hudson’s

of

to

dated

doubt

greatly

by

in

the

a

his for

he River

34

the

fact, U [ [1 r r

- U L

E F

r1

e

of

archives

McComb on

particular on.

artment. had wagons Wyeth,

was through captain

denied Hail Island American Captain 4mericans that John friendly overland on

the

his

the

a

cared

Of

McLaughlin. Meanwhile

During

Jackson area.

On

commission

War

return

on

across back

the at

Columbia

interest

on

B. South

October

of

welcome

trappers

to

July

Since

the by for

Department

historical

extended L. hospitality

the

on This the Fort

Kelley most

to

the E. mouth

at Pass

29,

his

in

War

his

winter

and

29,

the

now

to

Bonneville Fort

Vancouver

for in

Wyeth

Continental 1832

in of

1835.

as

second

Department.

trip look leave

of THE

caine turn, 1832

supplying

States,

is

the the the

that

interest,

far Vancouver,

while

the

of

of

a

planned

FIRST

into

over

up

Rocky

Nathaniel first

Indian

This report

to

as trip,

the resulted 1834-35

he

Wiilamette.

where

took

from

could

Wyeth

catch Green

had

the

the

Divide.

Hudson’s

trade OF

report

Mountains.

advance

it

was

tribes to

It

submitted

twenty

but

they THE

California.

been

Oregon

Oregon

Ewing

not

will

was

furs Wyeth

River.

make

in

will

building

goods

Ewing

ANERICSANS

was

received

setting

authorized

convince

Bonneviile movement

enroute Bay

of

be

wagons

for

Young

a

be

Country Country

and

lost

business

the and

to

treated

Young’s These

Company.

recalled

himself

a

10

Major

with

Kelly, Snake the

equipment

for

to across post

the

the

of

followers

were in for

to

was

the

stage

years

in

party hospitality

the

of

seven

changed

General

1834

and

River

on

take

that

the

Nathaniel being

detail

an the the

Columbia, curing

Wapato

later

company to

for

War among

is were

men army

his

Bonneville,

plains,

first country.

came

the

sick,

personnel

Alexander

of

a

farther

Dep

and

salmon

extended

the

of

and L r L L [ r

-. L r [ [ r L r

have

turn

which have

collecting

Washington.

in too heart Columbia the

expected. Columbia, General: letter, travels exist. during leave is interviews interceded Irving, from

the

the

much

Yellowstone,

been

at presumed

This

This

information

will

of

and

Cottonais

this

only

present

which wrote

are

and upon

the

laughable

I

he country

is

•

certain

certainly As

in.

have

period

authentic known,

Rocky-

going Miss

a It

could

this your

yet,

his his

is

copy

could

is

the therefore

Country the

secured

behalf Elsie

famous I

much,

information to

Mountains,

I goodness not

of from

in

made

find as

be

may

Platte, property

have

the

anxiously

report

the

the

get

in

Little this

were

and book

say and from is from

South

afforded extreme.

the

remained.

reinstated

journals

to much

New

the

I book by

ordered

I

a or

Bonneville’s of

UThe

respecting

have

course made

explore

West

not

waiting

photostatic

Bonneville

Lolidorlo,

more

in Colorado

Jucge

that

Adventures

but

aware

were actually

other

the

toward I

his

of

I

extensive until

have

the

E.

our

Crow

half

hope

that translation.

next.

lost. reinstatement.

how words, this

of V.

North

himself

knowledge

journals

constantly to

California

esident copy Country

a

Wind

the visited, the I

Kuykendall

desirous

fall.

of

country, story, have

winter

than

This

West,

author,

of the

Captain

of

River July

that

the not

and the

head I

I of

following

which

on only,

you would

kept

on and

29, could

and personal

trespassed

Bonneville’s is

Columbia of original

Washington

the Bonneville”

It

my waters

are the known

1833 Pomeroy,

would

was

my

e

the

not return,

Lower have Jackson

journal,

re— 36 of report

to

of

[ [

r’

[ U

— [

--

[

L

r

[

L t.

F r

- I - - -

-

Waila

men

reduced

handsomely

Colville,

quently

but

old

which

eighty

four

their

smallest

the

are

there

which

selves

bringing

equal

and

deem

Oregon,

this

making

of

there

they

settlements

Wafla

Hudsons

extremely

every

Waflsh

men

views

is

numerous

a

much;

would

The

abound

men.

to

by

remain

for

Subaltern’s

daily

are

to

strongly

keep force.

another

the

provisions

the

fire Waflah

built,

thing

information

of

the

and

oppose-ali

that

be

generally Here

V

Bay

sooner

there

task,

our

off

peaceable

about

observations

or small

as

next

manned

Colvifle

I

They

port

but

Company, if

a

they

built

government.

opposition want

safe supposed

port

during

yet

it’

command

our

a

year

to

posts

garrisoned

have

upon

I

year.

distributed

by

have

trading

shall

of

as

last

and

I

have

government

and

still

do

could-

half

would

wood

who

one

the

a

the

ever

could

of

farms,

capable

not

equal

honest,

late

and trading

be

already

are

higher

hundred

courses,

breeds,

summer

Although

vessels,

North

which

subsist

recommend

exceed

to

done

by

trade.

be

June

to

themselves

as

mills

offer

ever

only

of

or

interesting.

post

Fork, the

enforce

they

obtained

up

trapping and

either

Indians,

could

a

3,000

from

themselves

country,

a

another

intend

3

on

and

garrison

The

better

the

fall,

a

Subaltern’s

at

obtained

to

is

the

full

the

then

every

the

returns

skins,

least

ail

too

.5

from

also

authorizes

companies

taking

men

left

arid

and

above

and

Indians,

establishments

company,

mouth,

the

much

live

of

the

well.

convenience

violence

feeble,

may

from

farming

some

which

at

bank

one

from

instructions

Vancouver

command

possession

expanded

Indians

upon

present

easily

of

the

who

Canadians,

hundred

me

and

Five

of

whichby

may

Vancouver,

three

3

for

the

to

to

drift.

Columbia,

fre

to

in

is

be

who

be

men

of

the

by

I

say

of

them

salmon

5

fine,

and

or of — r

r r —

C

the

the

men. foot

30 100 were, by

it the

Missouri; Woolens

on and ctures carriage

greatest named

obtain deluged country. fertile north

Columbia, immense. so considered

men

in

stealth. the

anxious

Big

same

men,

American

their

Indians

The

The

The 1810,

to

here,

of

who

by

ColoradG,

from

Hans

at at

and

time

history

gradually

steal

of abundance

Hudson

Columbia

A.

they

every

other

the

These

remained

half

to the trifling

trapping

the

their the

extensive

on

M.

on

Far

of

lands visit.

their

even

rise

Lewis

the

means Company Americans,

articles Wallamet,

price,

Bay are

Mml.

of

the Company.

Indians and

increasing

and

Yeilowstone.

about

this

speak

at

are the of for

and

Head on

River

and

in vallies

As from

at present

flour the

about

their of countries

trading,

fur, countrr their

of to

Jones

5

waters

of trifling at

runs

So that

river, the towards

and

years

trade

the

making

and

$1

1816

to

making you

expense,

in

power,

have through best,

with

on

the

prime

cultivation

their

is

of

tobacco

the

Mr.

then

generally

see, reaching

but

I

the

sent

expense,

the

this,

a latter the

have

every

about

world, secret

the

Henry

fort not

the

cost,

three

totally

present

the

but

one

Californias

?i1.

Arkansas,

they

timber not

first

on Multnomah

advantage

80

Americans

have

on them

from

of

also

employing rendezvous

wheat,

compared sheils of

forks

and

yet

the

men,

the

raise,

the

defeated

number

the

the

to by New

abundant,

entered

Jones

Columbia,

examined

Big the

most

built of

avoid water

bottoms they

their

corn

Hudson

over or, Colidorio

have

to

horses

the

between

of

Horn

Platte,

‘with

and

beautiful,

by

the

as fish and

forts

it about

their

returns

the

in

Missouri,

to,

but

and

the

Bay trading

to

but

of

it

about about

land

they

the tobacco

Americans.

for,

80

as to the now

the oppose it

is

on Black...

280 entered

even

stru..

38

and

the it are

is

am was also defeated by the Blackfoot Indians on Three Forks. In 1825 General Ashley came in with about 50 men, met the Hudson Bay on Lewis River, on the point of fighting with them, however, took frog them the Iroquois and their furs, subsequently frlmself was deafeated by the Arepehoes on the headwaters of the Colorado, and. lost ail his horses, 120 head. Ashley then sold out to his clerks Smith, Jackson and Sablette who raised their number to 130 men, who in 1830 sold out to their clerks and best trappers. Fitzpattrick, Younger Sablette, Bridges, Frep. and Farris who now remain in the country with about 80 to 90 men. Drips, Fonteiiette, Pilcher, Vanderburgh and Benjamin

came in a firm in 1821 with about 75 men, reached the head of the Platte, there lost all their horses by the Arepehoes, then caching

the greater part of their merchandise and packing their men in the winter got lost in the deep snow finally dispersed. Drips, Fontenette

and Vanderburgh offering their services to the A. N. C. increased their number to 160 men. Gantt came up in 1831 with about 50 men, mostly afoot, done little

then retired to the head waters of - the Arkansas, where I understand he has opened a trade with the Camanche, the Arepehoes and Shians. The above I think will give you a tolerably correct idea of the great quantities of furs must have been taken from the country in

order to keep alive so many companies at such great expense in men and horses. This country may be said at present to be poor, but beaver increases so rapidly that any part permitted to- rest three years is said to be as rich as at first, The companies therefore en deavor to ascertain each others hunting ounds and to conceal theirs -and even-their successesor:disasters. Last year Fitzpatrick’s c company in their 2 year trapping sent dot.ni about 150 packs, 60 skins I per pack; A. M. C. arid Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 31 packs. This year A. M. C. and Fitzpatricks appear to have each about 44 packs, and sustained great loss in horses taken by the Auricenie; [ again the same party lost 17 men by desertion taking each 2 horses and six traps. As to the Indians, that the Pawnees reside on the lower Platte in several bands amounting to about 1200 warriors, they are well mounted, arid war with the Crows, the Sioux,Shians, and Auricenis, r make their hunting grounds in the Black Hills. 2500 Sioux, 400 Shians, 1600 Auricenis, they reside on the Missouri and wage war upon the Crows and Pawnees. They are extremely war like and are well mounted.

The Crows’ horses range upon the Yellowstone and headwaters of the about three fight with the Black r Platte, l00 strong in villages, Foot and the Arepehoes. The Crows have good horses and I believe the best buffalo country in the world. The Arepehoes range upon the heads of the Arkansas and Canadian and are very numerous, fight also with the Shoshones. The Shoshones, a poor, unwarlike race, some few

who have arms andhorsèszvèfiture to descend into the plains in villages but they are generally dispersed by twos and threes into the mountains without horses, without arms but the stone point arrow, and depending upon their numerous dogs to take the mountain sheep. They are met with in almost every mountain running from everybody and are termed ?lDiegere de Pitie’ is. Worthy of Pity. They will steal and kill whenever a good opportunity offers. Their villages are generally more friendly, tho dangerous to be met alone. They

• range about the Salt Lake.

I--:::.. - The Baocksin ages about 400 warrinrs mostly afoot live

- - About the falls of Lewis River. There, during the summer months

[ [

-

- fl

L r

rL C” of these the the waters joined grounds a whieh may Nez year Black bidden provisions. religious Church, brave have Missouri. River, detached their the catching war their Gros Black be Perce The rirountains. without great with never they The Foot. of the in said falls, by upon country the Ventres avoiding Cottonais, Foot the defence, and from 1atheads, and them. Flatheads. people the live, plain, killed The to (Ravine the religious Descending Missouri Poligamy the unwarlike, drying Indians, Black the abound Flatheads in They of northern together I changing I large and but a lower excellent the do ever 200 Aniere), white Foot 100 ar&weil salmon, hunt some not and so The never meetings. the Prairies warriors, bands the saw, warriors defend Columbia, usual branches have are with believe their its numerous man. Indians the Blood, and Columbia go skins and observing said of mounted northern been roots. buffalo among to towards themselves are camp They the in having with They that the war, to of range have and herds driven the those waters Pend all the and be n abundantly Savicies, about which amunition. defend three branches are every the from fall Sunday the the upon Indians, of the Columbia Oriefles. most from from the three the Indians only other 150 2 they move night festival Nez the themselves to troublesome tho most their the great the are Nez supplied Perce Indians heads forks dry up 3, is and day They pass in 000 Black Piedgan, upon honest in Here Perce that strictly original and bands distress of have commenced one are of head, of are in from the the here, return horses Foot. river by the warriors Salmon the in term and now extremely of extremely richness and Roman head upon the for the whole for who to to [! fl [ [. [

r

c - - -

wiziter

St. other

etc. their

4 great loaned

pany,

have

caught med

going they

the Foot When

Flatheads,

from leave kill the with horses build

numerous.

some

to

Louis

free Arepehoes,

spring

5$

horses

have but

The the

and the place

lands their

rendezvous

In

object

if

to

their

stone together,

horses

at

and

each

the

they

men, the

whites

individuals bushes,

steal. are grass

4$

their -

true

to

gradually families in for

and

When

families

forts,

winter

paying of

per

next,

expected

and have

men

kill

the

the

is

their

compániCs

traps

leader,

parties are

and

lb.

The in

the

ep

traps

who

found

Shoshone

nà

remáin

Shians,

their

then

the

for

unsafe

the

all

trade

purchasing

must

retreat and only

snow

smimier

hórCé

of

join

each

tint

parts

their

and

or plains

of dispatch

afoot sufficient,

their

move

nearest

iä

with

be

begins security

all

with or trader, the

size

country-,

company

in

are

rendezvous.

to

aMdo

with careful

of

supplies

run

to

and

the

their

it

own,

Pawnees,

ntis

catch

to

all

are any

the

the their tribes,

to

in

away

their packing

spring

sell

his

against

generally

not

their they

unmolested, most

tribe

bands

some fall,

same

credits

the

of

plains

these

and

hired

from

most

wish

their

the the

spoils

agree

following

certain towards

and

When

and

company

supplies

except

dogs, of bands

loss

these

men

other

Bannocks,

Crows.

active

in

with

to

men,

about as

having

again

beaver

the

to

to

all

on hire, of

locate the save

from

the destruction.

Indians the

whiskey,

meet

sell also companies

their

supplies

their

traps.

from

manner;

directions men

the

meeting

As

snow

a

unskinned

by- Nez

Nez

3

they

the

plan

what

all

to

to

themselves

to same and

that

the

own

way

melts

Perce is Perce —

the

Shoshones,

400 steal

plan

tobacco,

are

the

if

of from at

And

and is to

Black

country.

size

to

coma.

they- whites,

to

some

its

at then

furs

ter

and fight

and in 42

the

the _ 43

own. Rendezvous are certainly the scene of the most extreme de— C bau.chery and dissipation. Prices. — at the mo. to5perlb.Skntrappingdo__._..______...* Blankets,

Alcohol— — — — — — — 32 per gallon

Coffee — a — _ a a — a a a 2 — do

Flour - — a — — e — — — . ..2. — do Shotguns4 prime cost Rifles I, ‘I 0ado10$_paaa_aaa_a I, I, Horses 20 to 5$-—.. — — — — .120 to 250$ea. The customary prices as a year’s wages from 250 to 400$. As to the prices and regulations6 of the Hudson Bay I know but little, but this suimner, fail and spring I believe I shail be able to explain all their regulations of 1trade etc. On the 30th ofAprillleft Independence with 121 men and 20 wagons. On the 12 May crossed the Kansas, kept up the left bank, moved up the Republican. I marched upon an elevated plain, then struck it a little west and in one day feil on the Platte the 2nd of June. Here I found the river 3/li. mile wide. The banks

2 to 3 feet high, river about 4 feet deep but full of quicksand. - The plains upon the banks-ofthe Ptte are from 3 to 5 miles wide and I marched to the forks 130 miles without a brook or creek. At the forks I first found buffalo 45 days from the settlements. Having miles I crossed this fork. The

river below I measured 2. 3/4 mile wide in two places, general width t 1 1/4 1e. t the tone of nd and fell upon the nh r (N There the river plain is small, bluffs of immense size jut’cjyg into

• the river Finally reached the main branches of the North Fork, r crossed the south Laraniies Fork, then began one of the most broken - countries I ever beheld, frequently letting my wagons down the [ bluffs with long ropes, 80 men to each wagon. At last we came to r the main forks of the North Forks, having cut the tongue of land L to the north and in two days came to Sweet Water, which we ascended on the right bank of Wind River Mountains. Having turned the moun.

tains we struck a large sand plain upon which we slept without grass or water, having traveiled from sun—rise tiil nine o’clock at night. Next morning started again at day light and at twelve [ o’clock had the satisfaction to fail upon the water of the Colorado of the West. Having ascended the river on the right bank, forty [ miles, we built a picket-work. Fell in with the Gros Ventres of [ the Prairies, Black Foot, about 900 warriors, had no difficulty with them.. Here we remained to recruit our horses, then went a E north west course and on the 10th November fell upon Salmon River

where I again built two log cabins and waited for my men. One of F my-parties, 21 men, among the Crows entirely lost. Another of my

parties of 2]. men by the Shóshones lost 7 horses and 4 men, and

• another of my parties on the route through Torre Prairie of 28 men lost all their horses, but fighting from 8 A.M till sun set recovered ail but one, taken by the Black Foot and four badly

wounded. On the 28 November some of my parties had returned. I then proceeded to the Flat Heads and Nez Perces where I intended to wait the arrival of the remainder of n parties. At last on the ( 25 December I started with twelve men in search, crossed the great

r r [ [ F’ [j

—

t

r

I F

--

C

buffalo

23rd

and

friendly

plains

Foot

by

the

them,

mountain

parties.

horses

and

which

Then

to

I

and

and

left

on

increased

loaded

send

Reached

from

Shoshone

found

the

pret?fld

the

Flatheads

the

reached

La

fighting

Here

1atheads,

on

continued

much

at

for

with

Shoshone

time

Black

carcasses

and

Payette

Lower

the

19th

with

Indians

impassable

the

to

Lewis

I

Having

that

plains

to

another

mountains

to

my

I

remained

18

the the

Foot,

Flathead

of

snow

at

suceeded

Columbia.

my

and

war,

small

proceeded

party

party.

Rivers. River

to

toward

February

north

valley

by

that

and

surprise

found

in

Nez

and

the

who

of

while

presents

and

the

party

with

these

to

would

on

time

River.

my

Perce

1st

that

west

in

the

that

their

of

Finding

remained

join

the

At

deep

On

with

with

parties

I

passing,

these

at

the

July.

quite

of

Comanche

my

only

not

pushed

last

fail

the

having

spring

18

to

the

me

path

sn,

23

23

There

18

animals

Colorado.

that

do. February.

march

people

6

immediately,

skinned I

—

men.

near,

at

voyagers

men

in

Pend

Here

April

I

found

across Rosy,

leaving

been

consolidated

lost

its

Prairies

I the

r.t

took

I

to

upon

again

were

Orieiles

I

then

made

I

till

base

came

driven

waited

join

Shoshone

that

only

Meade,

that

one

therefore

it

Here

the

and

Here

l

the

weak,

tried

me

the

reached

and

animal,

horses

till

to

laying

Mr.

which

the

I

living

plains,

14

I

Black

fear

from

and

4

actually

I

Comanche,

the

5th

for

on

found

Indians, Vailey.

I

(Cerie)

mountains

days

to

found

the

induced

the

they

the determined

mountain

and

to

on

July.

that

the

on

avoid

upon

frozen

Foot

and

27

for

so

cross

the

the

Cottonais,

29th

one

two

did,

country

May

who

purpose.

many

fish,

on

Borsey

towns

Nez

I

my

the

these

route

The

14

were

to

of

mules.

started

found

the

hich

at

the

I

having

Perces

March,

to

my

death.

had

Black men — 46 r feared to approach the rendezvous, and at night sent two men to r examine it. Had the satisfaction to hear all was well. I then continued and next day met ail the whites in the t country, and on the 25 started with Mr. (Cerie) to excort him to the Big Horn, which I expect will take me till the 10 August. I will then proceed to the North West towards the mouth of the Columbia. The country upon the Lower Republican is roiling, becoming a [ high level plain as you ascend, the country gradually rising to [ the west. The Platte runs through one of the most beautiful and

• level plains in the North. Upon the North Fork the country becomes [ much broken, from Iarainies Fork to Sweet Water is most terribly broken, and difficult to pass. This country is termed the Black I-’ Hills. Upon Sweet Water high hills are constantly in view but [ easily passed traveling generally on the bank of the river sand. • The Sweet Water heads into the Wind River Mountain, said to be the highest in the country, about 2500 feet elevation above the plains, and constantly covered with snow. I have not measured these mountains, ‘tis mere supposition. fl In this same bed of mountains rises the yellowstone, the Columbia, the Colorado and the Northern Platte. They are extensive and extremely difficult to be gone through, and are always turned. The - general course I traveled to head Sweet Water was about West North

West, and estimated by mc at 1050 by the wordings of the route. - From the forks of Horse Creek of the Colorado to the heads of the Salmon River the route lays generaily through a country easily passed, with the exception of two mountains which must be gone over. One is low, the other must be passed up the river, and upon a crevice of the mountain from which horses from C fall every party, descent

[ [

[

L r

[

L L.

-

L r

[

[

r

L

I C

-

horses

Black

however

Platte,

The

slowly..

without

up

and

where

rock

tea

saw

mica

tonally

and

the

grass;

a

the

Ventres

run

Howevcr

Lake,

Here

extreme

perpendicular

with

little

rivers

lava

of

slate,

its

Cottonais

Hills and

south

through

The

slate,

in began

again

we

having

greasy

then

a

large

to

Upon

I

difficulty

every

the

clay

trap.

north

Black

drop

west

find

would

this

to

the

we

a

led,

an

again

Horn

begins

winter

little

thecanyons-or

the

the

crevices

have

prevailed,

quartz

to

of

west

plain, country,

lies

immense

the

much

to

Hills

270

To

iron

ob3rve

banks

cook

block

water

east

from

a

the

yellow the

a

feet

of

is

and

immense

east

is

great

and

ore.

bed

are

in

with

of

passage.

aboutl5

a

region

north

sweet

we known,

the

and

or

remarkable

become

immense

high,

rough

which-

one

are

salmon

the

the

of

or

distance

find

the

buffalo

In

southern

limerock

plains

columnar

mountains

of

the

a

cotton

cottonwood

mountains

primitive

of

that

one

course

broken

smallest

extremely yielded

little

no

feet which

slate.

beds

limerock

great

plain

wood

for

of

every

to

dung,

wood

bank

without

wide

blocks

of

to

country

sand,

sixty

east

the

lying

its

upon

Shoshone

to

increase

bunch

class

As

above

only

red

Salmon

upon

fat.

river

to

dried

and

filling

the

south,

great

lays

we

without

by

the

no

of

North

sand

organic

I

of

of

depth

and

which

ascended,

this,

North

forty

limestone,

Above

even person

weeds,

found

N.

plains;

immense

heads

mineral,

their

quantity

grass

about

rock.

west

every

West

and

unmeasured,

water,

we

ail

and

bulks.

Fork

miles

this

small

of

knows

South

occasionaly,

size to

of

the

feed

350

to

mountain,

plains

the

the

through

Some

Sweet

of

granite,

be

north

of

Gros

and

without

the

is

big

quantit—

miles.

but

where.

creeks

sand

our

from

wood

the Occas—

found.

plains

filled

upon

Water,

south

Salt

is

to the [

— L r

[

L

[.

[

L

1 r

- c

•

his

on

how

with

and

trappers

nerer

sand

can

of

strike

to

extending

from

soils

tensely

same

heat

feelings

plains

eraily

the

at

mountains

the

grass

this

40

the

extensive

thirst.

there

about

my

This

plains

winter

western

north

tiil

of

South

seen,

The

to

here

a

east

promises,

where

about

line

and

unfit

72°

once

little

50

much,

were

be

47°,

ther!nometer

to

we

the

and

are

where of

but

months

being

miles

of

as

had

not

waters

the

this

reach

attempted

the

at

for

the

much

at

pines

the

excellent

south,

GeneralI

offensive

am

north

12

for

a

line

and

nothing

cold

2

closely

ëasilybut-here,

country

cultivation.

Platte

told

buffalo

in

Big

the

as

p.

p.m.

the

a

and

with

I

the

of

running

beginning

was

they

in.

small

Salt

hope

Bôrsey,

to

it

bitter

72°.

Taos

cedars

but

and

as

vailies

26°.

can

tied

is..

have

much

has

coast

me

can

would

or

wiil

that

party

not

other

be

ranged

(now

from

never

Once

be

Eutaw cotton

up

An

a

been

more

I

are

about

These

it

found.

branch

extensive.

be

be

of

where

left

seen;

every

individual

to

in

about

where

rivers

and

I

abundant.

satisfactory

able

the

in

been

severe.

at

Lake,

wood

saw

subsist

N.

the

of

it

were

the

we

elk, sunrise

night,

of

states

The

Mexico).

we

the

the

to

traveled

and

it

forks

from

wintered,

prevails.

then

Lewis’

states

have

collect

near

as

Big

deer,

Forks

The

west

in

traveled

I

excepting

requires

the

of

find

high

through

running

of

the

Salt

buffalo

to when

dying

River.

are

1000.

at

around.

West

sheep

of

the

east

feed

states

that

in

as

it

13°,

Lake

Upon

Salmon much

yOU

across

Platte,

compliance

91°.

from the

stood

some

and

so

time

are

and

range

our

at

The

but

consider

I

the

as

the

goes

Five

suDmer

south

in—

hunger 250

have

large

bear

River

to

horses

the

During

gen

to

the

and my — [ U

- [ [. [ L p [

[

L F r

:. (7

To. any

my

them,

if

however, Cottonais

about

are unenciunbered.

enemies; horse. cord each their viflages all i44 camp

feed omitted

Major

you

return

other

turned

day. bands

Alexander

In attached lodge

is morning,

either

8

lodges,

General

shall

miles the

then to The

General

longer

besides

at

u.s.

commands about

country

high,

The

out a

state

course whole,

8

to

have

formed small

long.

to mode

poles A.?!. noon

.rmy Mac

in

at

At

the

join

journies.

stock

the planting

that

Chief

any

and

clear 10

Comb.

in

brush of men,

raise

of and

last

extending and

any

horses

The

or

this

round

instructions a

built,

traveling the

night,

few

women

day baggage. U

party

whites

of

pen

camp,

horses an

country,

A.?!.

I by

June

days light,

fore

18

to

and

have

maices

along

arid

To that

the

the

travel

the

inch here,

secure

1

I

upon here

foot.

With

be

That

children

the

lower

for shafl making

shall

chief

might

or

•

the

chief

our

Your

stake

General,

which

is are

Honor, me, to

every

imach

their

lets

B.LIE.

Captain,

river traveling

In

meet

be leads Columbia this,

Most

return be

their

pitches

generally

shall the follow,

into

on the the

in

consideration sent,

horses

Mr.

or

Bonneville,

my

(Obedient the morning upon

the

men the

Indians

camps

to be

7

creek,

14.5.

to

route

his very

Infy.

to

the

Indians same

the

aad a ride about from ground

the

comply

and lodge. fast

women

the (Cerie)

slow.

States. way, will

to

making

to Servent)

south.

totally

their

lb

journies

walking with

the

horses

in

receive

with

with

making,

to

gallop

The

I

49

and

for

a

Cz Nez

plains with of fense

Montana buffalo.

necessary foot,

total.

Bonneville

nine

country of 150 Bonneville

to trappers

the

Nez Lower encountered Eastern

ington in that

the

the

1834,

Perce

contrast

warriors.

Perce. Sublettes

the

hundred

tribe

Students against

sometimes

Upper

Salmon, and

tribe

and

or

The

across

Idaho.

Bannocks,

about

and

and

The

to

in

in

estimates

reports

who

North

Upper

by

The

to

Nez

combine was

including travelers,

the

the the

Upper

Eastern

and

the

of BONNEVILLE

t.h

This

the

the

the occupied

concentrating

Upper

This

Perce

closely

Eastern

the

Snakes.

valley

Blackfoot,

Nez

others.

Clearwater

sometimes

mountain

the

Nez

main trappers

Nez

would

forces to

was

Nez

Idaho

Perce

Nez

and

Upper

Perce old

Perce

consist

except

the

part

of

allied

the Oregon Perce

CROSSES

indicate

Perce

The

Bannocks

men,

Nearly

the

to for

and

passes

headwaters

of

and

making

Nez

described

and

of

section

apparently their

Snakes,

protect

the

the

often

Green

purposes

the women

with

of

were

and

the

hunting

Perce

large

THE

all

200

in

a

Hudson’

American

did

people

common

Flatheads

who

Nez

the population

WAILa1A the

lose known

River.

Western

and

of

relatives

themselves warriors,

to these

areas

of

not

were

Perce

buffalo

of

got

Flatheads

the

first

children. consist

the

a

sight

cause either

as

exist

defense

Bay Fur

on

Upper

accounts

known

FOREST in

This

Montana found

who

the

Salmon

of

tolorably

of

Company

Company, of South

with of

on

or

between

in from

of Upper

the

occupied

tolerant

who

Nez about

the

as

the

the

and

about

it

Western

This

approximately

River

them

and

Eastern

Nez of the

the

frequently

occupied

Perce.

division

Bannocks, upper

for

men,

Nez

eight

explorers,

Jim

well the

whom

1200

section

Lower

Perce

in

Black.

the in

attitude

hunting

Perce,

prier

Bridges, 50

Upper

de..

Snake

Wash

or

the

of -3

51 r and also of the Shoshonie stock, were bitter enemies of both the Upper and Lower Nez Pere. Captain BL.E. Bonneville had spent one [‘ winter with the Upper Nez Perce and about the last of the year of 1833 decided to make a [ trip from his camp on the Portneuf River, (near the present day [ Pocatello, Idaho) where he had established winter quarters for his - men near a large camp of Bannocks, to the Hudson’s Bay Company fort [ at. the mouth of the Waila Waila River. He was desirous of learning

- the country and observing the operating methods of the Hudson’s Bay Company, also, to become acquainted with the Indian tribes and scout the country for furs. He therefore chose three companions for the journey, put up [ a small stock of provisions in the most portable form and selected five horses and muleS for themselves and their baggage. He expected [. to return in early March. Bonneville and his three companions left the camp on Portneuf River on Christmas day 1833. He was obliged U to travel slowly for the snow was at a depth of 18 inches on the Snake River plains and somewhat crusted. His route took him along [: the southern bahk of Snake River where he usually traveled at some r distance from the river. !hen he reached the lower of the great falls, which is the limit of the upstream migration for salmon in Snake River, he encountered many Indians of the Shoshonee people. These he called the Shoshokoes or Root Diggers and as they were well supplied with salmon, purchased as much dried salmon as his party 4required We now come to one of those unexplained mistakes in the his.. torical records. It will be recalled that we have no journals by Bonneville himself. He definitely states that he kept a regular and

[

L r L

L r

[

[

[

I_i r

[

[

[

[

r

r

by

and

nize

Also,

present

height,

sified

considerable

generally

at

called,

horses

Bonneville

who

as

He

and

the

into

made

that.

ched

one

personal

statement

I?Adventures complete

the

least

near

contrasted

describes

the

subsist

defiles

It

Portnenf.

who

one

Snake

Powder

in

description

by

“On

and

will

day

so

assembled

the

description

the

a

follows

familiar

isolated

level

interviews

journal

as

the

hundre4

approached

hunt

that

Powder

River.

mouth

on

be

of

quantity

River;

sequence

of

the

to

with

12th

roots

the

readily

He

and

he

Captain

the

have

the

Indians

in

of

of with

of

River

hills,

struck

families

had

the

latter

Here

much

day

sandy;

buffalo.

as

with

tory

one

the his

the

and

tabular

of

of

the

these

Bannocks

applying

the

apparent

of

Bonneville”

he

could

the

the

sage

place.I

native travels

Owyhee

as

salmon,

all

it

Bonneville.

mouth

river,

January

producing

as

geography

found

of

Root

about

largest

story

journals

summits

cut

or

recorded

“On

not

these

of

River.

Indians,

of

in

from wormwood.

—

and

as

Diggers,

and

himself

off

the

have

three

at

(1834)

Powder

“The

the

great

which

very

stream very

•“

Washington

Diggers,

of

the

in

as

this

when

foilowing

by

However,

upper

been

cciuntry

This

Southern

an miles

it

as

poor

detail

above above

Captain

little

he

Irving

River,

a

point.

he

open

were, he

The

those

branch

the

used

Snake

is

was

as

and

had

above

the

description

plains

it

hereabouts,

Irving

day,

with

further

and

area

that

grass,

they

he

Idaho

Bonneville

about

writing

along

who

without

The

seen

is

River

of lower

discovered

level

its

as

the

described.

‘very

a

are

inhabited

the

were

book

makes

will

the since

mistake

with

but

Captain

implied

entrance

who

area

narrows

the

fimi1iarily

horses

Shoshonees

country.”

clear

that

diver... says

was

same

a

recog

rea

many

the

had

leaving

book

at

52

was

the to E [ L - E [ [ [ U 1—i [ [ [ L [. c = ------Valley with. during Ronde to proceed the Indians or Portneuf Diggers. There route that familiar not latter natives flows had Powder party may Bonneville the the follow no Baker be intended be Northern area they This Valley As snow also that a near into indicate advised impeded down River. probably that time that they was with. up Vailey. It near applied Gun along seems the Union, the thought through through the 18 Irving will of the to proceeded Paiute Creek the party by them Snake that inches However, deep proceed S knew the to route be this the They, mouth This-wOtild kêRivërto made the be to does Antelope Lower it branch Snake remembered was snows, River that snow. deep name good keep in down would name up the therefore, of following it not that Powder the River the from of the and logic to would which along mistake. Snake of appear Valley, have have the snow what direction banks the the Owyhee that crusted. the at Valley in was seem the River been Shoshonee and been mouth would no Owyhee the we west; in the the of striking Snake what Travel doubt during now their from any the mouth Gun the it and snow advise was be )hile of but was know other the is Owyhee all River, most Creek, Powder cross peoples. advised deep intended impracticable. time the of on were the said Powder party there given as logic Burnt the account snow..free winter, at Grands to instead schedules Burnt where assured a that, River, the Durkee plains had stream the River was by destinations as It River, party the River. to that they to may were Rends Grande “They little of thence by passage or and at the which contend of Root The the be these would the I it of to the the in am that — L [ LA H [j. [ [ L r r

c

river

disappointment

on them

Burnt This

of to

rou.te

which Snake

snow Indians

from not to been

Bonneville’s

cription of them people yet none him

Indians

Snake

the

travel

be

the

Snakes

heard.

they

to Two

indicates

there

which

a

At

is of

of

Somewhere

River

River. across

they

here

passage

belonged small Sheep

cross

in

any

very

them

ice, River who

days

were of

upon

to this

their found

but

for

to

rate,

them

One

spoke

the

party

party

meager. eaters

could

only

after and

They

attempt

able

that

at

Powder through that

the

they

these

on

valley,

cannot of

Blue to

language

is

the

recross

the

a

Powder a

determined

ice

were

of be

them to

a

leaving

they

be

were

very

from

language

narrow

people

mouth

change

River

Mountains. the

party

Umatillas.

They make

induced

when

Hells

free

now

where

familiar.

understood

were

all meager4

across

River

the

crossing,

differed

may be

inquiries

ribbon

of

the the the

of

continued

spoke

of

Canyon,

conversant

totally

river

to

fully

they

determined to

Powder

snow.

have

the

weather

Orande Pv1e ice banks

the

follow

act

Evidently

a

They

It

of

spent

only

One

the party

at

aware on

and

been dialect

Snake .kt

but

is

as as different

ice

River

should

Apparently

on

key

will.

the

Rónde

might may

Nez

had

down

they

with

slightly.

almost

to

guides.

on

to some

a

for encountered

remained

of

River,

Snake

have detachment

their Perce

nearly

but

their

they

the

of

Valley

the

prove the

decided

the logically

the

time

Shoshonee

sure

from

found

Crande

been

River extreme

found they

Snake

Nez

or route. To language

description

way

along

cleared

impassable. looking

they

what

that they

any

to

Perce

a

a

to

down

found

for

had

River,

too

Ronde

expect

detachment

camp

return

they

the

their were

difficulty

with

they

tribe However,

could

the

and

the

much enabled from

for

tongue

no

of

shore

Vailey--’r..

had

of

back and

were

which

through des.. Cayuse

•tji8;

great

to a

have

these

I

L

L [ [ [] L r [ L

rT•

[ [

L

[

[ r the They green Portneuf weak, Imnaha killed Snake nized hides kill could the place They but progress. mere finally cued Two climb close and sort Imnaha valley observed The failed of The their in grass then exhausted chasm, River one, to Bonneville and of not and on and to to their places and spring came party be bridge February considerable the try came affect went determined but ate horses, which begining and They and extremely with 20 Indian to horses to stream the one eventually there to back bad like days and the across then a lead run a they perpendicular a 16, place of other dry crossing to in Imnaha camp weather up to signs after fell as the still to attempted their his hazardous. expected return 1834 a heights the the river spring possible scale where was pitiful river; of into men crossed and leaving after remained stream. flesh fifty mules they Nez on swept about to on up the on the the to must the to walls an Perce their but condition. terrible down would for the there, three and pass the mountain the scale bed away river undertaking four Imnaha enough lie being provisions, second of finally the snow where mouth camp of around return days by miles revived on the rock at river hardships. Snake and the bound forced snow the and of one they day mountain of after They that bluffs arrived to to the the rapid which other seek Powder was place. River, and traveling their ridge make were the a arrived occasionally previous presence leaving defied more narrowed ice a current. and they Snake side. to Enroute on boats hospitably passage River. spirits. keeping between They to favorable the precipices. the all on recog.. down the form River, night. of of west If to res. the Imnaba, farther they into They to as the the they a a

[

[

[ U. F Li

— r

L

reasonable.

statement

elk

a

given.

ducted

Cottonwood

Lightning

Itunaha

probably

about

commonly

who

them

royally

Perce River

his

of

stant as

considerable

out

Upper

having

about

received

meat

the

a

accompanied

three

It

as too

the

After

doctor

them

in

arid

is

Here

interchange

Nez

twelve

tribe.

and

is

far

learned

entertained

at

in

known

that

the

or

situated.

mouth

Creek.

and

on

companions

deducted

Perce

by

The

the

resting

regard

choice

it

as

Cow

had

vicinity

the

village

these

the

families.

cared

as

is

Asotin

Lower mouth

of

them

the

Creek

preceeded

of

second

the

said

About

bench

to

Freezeout

pieces

of

and

by

people

the

language

by

for.

The

for

proceeded

Nez

of

the visits

to

of great

where

of

this

that

the

recruiting

Salmon

the

trail

day

next

Big

the

Nez

the

Bonneville

the

Perce

buffalo

of

This

him..

had

thief,

writer

they

chief.

mouth

Yo—mus—ro-y-e.cut

encountered

Sheep

and

Creek

buffalo.

village

next

Perce,

while

mouth

village

to

heard

River

village

down

frequently

messages

This

feasted

Joseph

meat.

an

several

of

their

and

Creek

that

residing

of

the

could

the

of

of

of

Joseph

old

was

was

the

that

Many

of

him

Bonnevifle

Eastern

name

O...push—y-e..cut

another

Creek

where

Iznnaha

strength,

However,

on

man

probably

between

accounted

days,

easily

Nez

Imriaba.

made

the

writers

and with

fish

Creek

of

named

Perce

at

joined

the

toward

trips

first

that

whose

Idaho.

in

village

their

and

converse

the

the

this

they

at

present Bonneville

struck

Yo-mus—ro—y-e...cut,

fact

Here

for

question

consisted

his

roots,

mouth

them

the

two

village

to

chief

the

is

who

cousins,

stopped

by

He

escorting

they

of

the

reputation

mouth

branches

the

with

entirely

Snake

and

town

the

was

found

Nez

of

deer

is

buffalo

that

were

and

was

Imnaha

of

con..

con.

them,

not

at

of

of

the and

F

[ [

Li [

U

[

[

[

[

r C in continued up River Waila called to but Mr. they the hospitably, Hudson’s the Nez respective very place village at Lower the east cintry, “their this the return Bonneville this Payette, visits Hudson’s Perce On considered main Wafla to Bonneville important If to Imnaha. the of Nez vicinity March buffalo the was time, any up Bay their the the object Way.lee—way, both Trail Perce, of and times. but to mouth the a one Company Bay 6, same second other angered brigade “the the cousins On across retraced war theirs. to cousins.” could to and 1834 home village of Company It the of way mouth the Fort chiefs, great these traders his Looking would took the Bonneville of not the Imnaha he at leader the Snake to Walla party their the Mr. could agent of Grande had the chief”, trips. purchase a Lola Joseph undoubtedly Upper Buffalo if among dim Dry Glass. original Pambrune River. they refusal come for Wafla continued route not be Pass Mr. view Creek Ronde and Nez Creek, O-push—e—cut the considered the selected the t&i hides the Pambrune. into where through his Both Perce Nez of Looking to Company, invited Indians and River, principle be supplies facilitating around on three it seil Weern and Perce these the he crossed or a via was Asotin, the dried better visited which Glass him one Bonneville as in He made companions on guides Clarkston to men more he war headquarters they ntana the was at his supplies, over the buffalo needed were the and his route up chiefs difficult. Asotin, territory or treated for return called assisted Ininaha the Nez the the Ime. encouraging rated to and a and left as and meat time mountains birth. of Perce Snake decided accompany where trip; them south the the and of their as This Fort that him was with the

[ Li [j

LZ

[

[ [

[

[

r

[•

was

after.

and

had

Washington

hardships

Wilson

two

and

they

green

which

their

across

making

ii

to

Salmon

a

the

months

Bonneville

The

were

great

grass

horses.

remain

afterward

Price

the

a

crossing

accounts

along

couple

across

River

Irving

and

pass

influence

was

Hunts

almost

continued

six

They

the

8

freezing

through

which

countries,

of

the

and

of

inches

earlier

days

light

Idaho

unexplored

succeeded,

Bonneville’s

mountains

were

in

was

from

the

causing

his

high.

made

sleds

side

widely

difficult

trip

with

snow,

Fort

journey,

a

of

and

thus,

and

or

with

Their

path

the

later

read.

Hells

Waila

travels

wet

toboggans

near

unknown

result because

Donald

in

sufficiently

reaching

guides

by

travelers

Walla.

Canyon,

the

the

These

a

arid

drizzling

for

that

McKinzie’s

Snake

course

and

of

then

the

accounts

the

many

deep

were

dragging

this

to

accounts

returned

River

hard

Portneuf

of

avoid

years

snow,

published

rain,

entire

three

trrible

to

no

tthere

them

the

support

there..

but

doubt

of

home

and

on

days

area

Wailowa

the

by

by

May. 58 heads motive. Catholic

of have medicine

Wyeth

gation the

in to the

a the

for of

told white directions man

secure chers

of River

mission

the

the

avoid

Christain Lewis

Blackfoot

Methodists help

summer

accompanied

ascribed

Many

A

them

In

and

overland

to manes

rendezvous

doctrines

Willamette

to

a

sensational

183].

slant,

which

Both

the

from

Bible, be and

Nez writers

St.

among

is

of

how

civilizatIon. sent

Flathead

Advocate unrecorded.

a Clark

Perce are the

Louis

in 1334.

the

they

to

sent to delegiticn

through

which the

the

and

that

to to

very most

have Valley.

the northwest

conduct

article

had

believed

as

Flathead

Jason American their am,

St.

percepts

Wyeth

area Hudson’s

country c.ranatizing they

probably

devout

a belittled

the

become

ThE Louia

niere

and

Lee

poople themselves.”

It of

This and and was While

could

teachings

wi].derness.

MISSIONARIES

the

Indians.

Fur through three is

of

Chriataim

because

superstitious

and

to

acquainted

MLaughJ.in

Bay suggested

published

wrong.

they

fairly

white

Christianity,

the

not

there and.

observe

Company

his

this

Company’s

Nez

motives

did.

have

him,

for,

of

nephew,

of

man

heroic

They

they

Perce

certain

religious

It

Just

the

they

the

what

The

in

caravan

by

advised

read made

‘ta

to

is

search

accompanied the called

Iroquois

this

of repeated

ort book men results

what

true

possess.

establish treck,

Daniel

they

with

a

anyway. that

the

March

request and from

time faith William

the at

containing

that

for

on could

a

Indians

they

Vancouver were

Lee,

and

one

trappers,

Wiiliam raids missionaries

strong

1833 the

with

more

the

as

Others

themselves

Nathaniel

the

did Flathead for

of

to

Green

immediate: Clark

the

issue

many

Flat..

powerful

dele.

the of

not tea..

found

cry

Clark,

in

59

r

[I

[

— [

[

[ [

[‘. r

r [ C Nez American missions the American Oregon get. that their the their footing their man of as ethical the they little prayer. variance beads had Company many Perce land well the teachers backward and In Sahaptain impelled Many exerted had One children: children, people of Country and eastern 1835 with of Fur among and Board other developed religion and agents whom fundamental adopted with Their of the Nez Company’s determine Marcus for flatheads lands the a needed the the the had advance by of Group above the hristain Perce marked states morals had just their whites. chiefs the Commissioners of delegation some Nez settled and of calendar, Whitman taught an their and all were as Presbyterian fact, Asia influence supply the Perce and contingents their people. were of were education today and some other doctrines, the very They among feasibility much own. and them and often quite there wise and ethics to observing train of more many things. Africa, definitely, desired above for Samuel make their and them. Flatheads. Their the men in overlooked, high, to of and visible of to Foreign as not...withstanding several order neighboring the meet of the that religious the the of high moral Congregational Parker desire Sunday this The but This the treck white establishing intelligent them rendezvous to of aspects although Iroquoi Missions, as they of for tribes They characters then compete the were is as an that to the and man’s views. their tribes that understood a education traveled average was St. sent of day they evangelist recognized of somewhat the on on civilization. to church’s Louis, these the the people people the a of were bad to The learned an Green mission look fact mountain religion. motive rest with inhabitants the for even a people, very 1at.. Bay fully to at in and very over that Ignace, River. that and the or 60 (1 61 r that Jason Lee had passed on to the Willamette Valley. Jh order to save time, at least two years, it was decided that Parker would go r on with Nez Perce guides to look over the country and meet Whitman at the next years rendezvous and lead him and his party to whatever [ site he had selected. Samuel Parker was 56 years old and far from being fitted L either physically or by training for the rugged frontier life, [ nevertheless he made the trip with his Nez Perce guides and a French Canadian trapper with a Nez Perce wife, to act as interpreters. [ They traversed past the Tetons, Pierre’s Hole, Salmon River, to the r earwater and on to Fort Waila Wafla. Then on down the Columbia L to spend the winter with McLaughlin at tort Vancouver. Next [ spring Parker returned up the Columbia and explored the country with Indian guides to Spokane House, Fort Colvifle and Fort [ Okanogan and returned to Fort Waila Waila. He had intended going r with a party of Nez Perce to the rendezvous, expecting they would L go via the Blue Mts. on the direct trail but when he learned that this party was going through Idaho hunt [ central to buffalo enroute, he decided he was not physicaily able to make this rugged trip and [ sent letters to Whitman by Nez Perce and also by Torn McKay. He then returned to Fort Vancouver to take ship to the Sandwich Islands [ and then by another to New York. Meanwhile, Marcus Whitman had returned to New York state, L secured authority and necessary financing to establish a mission.

He also acquired a wife, Narcissa Prentiss, who had previously L applied for consideration to be a missionary to the Nez Perce. Henry Harmon Spaiding and his wife Eliza were assigned to the project

as Missionaries but subordinate to Whitman who was designated as L F r L [ p C [ r L [ L r r r

• - -

i*

William leader. dollars horses Missouri

after

the The east near with their they wagons the four wagon Thomas following and vous famous for letters known Chiefs,

third outfitting

plains,

a others. with

Independence, There the

hundred overtook

The

in

the

control

went

niuch among and

each Fitzpatrick. worth

frontiersmen Gray

the Tackensuatis

from youths

American

Whitman

live him Nez

the

two

were

beyond

needed

pulled on

valley

the as

animals

of They

Samuel from stock, Perce

prevented the

wagons.

example

point

May

the as

ten

trade outfitted whites

party

Fur

caravan,

were this helpers rest

the

Missouri

by 26.

missions of

they

people

of two Parker.

f

strcng

and

or

Company

six

the of goods,

Green

left point. met The the until as

the

This

of

the found

the

Ish-hol..hol—hoats-hoats,

mules, the

Green and the

in

on

American by day, whom

party

was

their lay

River

Oregon

supply

camp fur

The July

the which

supply party

Lawyer. there a

at

On

led

assistant. River. were delegation Jim

and

company

party Whitman the

from

heavy equiient,

July

rendezvous 14.

Country

their with by caravan

were Board

Bridger,

caravan,

a

boys

town

starting

that great

6, The remained

In

wagon

Here

over

three caravan.

party.

safety

for they that

the of

Nez of

and

of Whitman vetran

many medicine,

they

Joe the Liberty

but

three

at Foreign

Nez meantime

70

Whitman reached Nez

which

Perce

out

at

depended

Fort

Meek, previous

Delays by

pack men,

met

the Perce

mountain

Perce Only

the

in

thousand

hired

forced

was which

brought

Missions Laramie,

many

latter

company mules,

seven cattle,

had the Kit

rendezvous a

the

led

beyond

to

located

party

in

to

year.

taken rendez— was of Carson

marches

man,

look

light by

62 crossing

better them

nearly

the

mules,

sent

of fl I H r U L [ [ [ [ — [

L [ [

L [ r

(

•

znent

lay

accompany

which friend to

company tarry

broken Portneuf as Nez The Wyeth

Bay

formation, had which east Nez the Country. Mcteod,

the Hudson1s

Company

the

Fort

in

Whitinn

Perce

Company Whitman Perce headwaters

come

was

On

having

It

long included

had

the

the whites

of

and

men

August

Hall,

was

brigade.

delivered

agreeable

River

to

y

the

the

and

In

accompanying

Nez just

winter

at

the

including

and

brigade party

the failed

party decided

visits

Company

main

as

Spaldings

Fort

although Hudsoh’s

Perce

John near

3, two

that

of

Chief

rendezvous

Chief

supply

they

moved

the to a Parker

to

body

Hall

extra

in

McLeod

present with

and would

to

spring

second

advise

return men

the

Takensuatis,

his Missouri

Rotten

arrived

Bay them it

go

of and

but

a

on

of

wheels

Wyeth,

advised

camped

entire

arrived

with

short commercial return

the

and

men with

July letter

sold

meat. would

day

set

to as

to

Belly.

Nez

Tom

at

helped

visit

the River far the

Whitman lashed out Pocotello, 18 McLeodts

distance to nearby.

Nez

home,

against

not

Fort

there

from

McKay Perce

It

or

the as Hudsont

started Columbia

again

Perce

McLaughlin

enterprises for

leave

is as This

take

Fort

Hail

on hunting Reverend

Hudson’s

as received

presumed

to with

he

to their brigade. the The

with

top

a

party

chief

Idaho. the

Hall, a

for

was

the

the

with

in the

Bay

northern brigade

cart

a

of

a

the winters

light buffalo Fort

buffalo

missionaries

familiarly

small

Bay at

camp Samuel

Company

had and

much

which much the

the in

that

with

valley

They

He

Fort

Hall.

the

Company.

that

become

wagon

loado

Hudson’s leader,

of

party

was

valuable smaller route

this

meat.

one Nathaniel

enroute

Parker

country

did Vancouver. the

brigade, Oregon

Rotten

of enroute

knotin

The as axel

arrange

a

not of by

Hudson’s

to

the

John

warm

Wyeth

party,

Bay

advising far

ins. on

63

to

tree

the

(

which

through

planned

anxious

taking

the

and

the

Fort

eeded

they

on

Fort

the

crossing,

they

short the

first

historic

hands,

meat

the

possible

Belly

August

party

across

The

Snake

were

wheels

The Vancouver.

crossed Snake

Boise,

with

Nez

crossed

three

At

to

for

way

to

to

fresh

Spaldings

stayed

party

stayed

separated, Salmon

getting

to

Fort

Perce.

spend

get

19.

the

fame

Whitman

Rotten

Mr.

be

down

and

and

pack

near

Farewell

the

salmon.

to

done

his

hill

Vancouver.

continued

McLeod With

many

They

as

at

a

but

stream

Falls

the

Tom

Snake

horses

the

makeshift

tired with

Belly’s

The

load

the

Fort

had

to

to

the

a

Digger

remained

Marcus

McKay

north

Snake,

Bend,

rest

who

day encourage

This

near

founder

Baker

the to

at

again

of

would

Hal].

‘Whitman

and

along

people.

leave

was

a

at

furs

heavily

bank

remained

of

was

Indians

present

and

small

then

place

going

Valley. to

on

Fort

near

for

come

the

taking

of

the

through the

the

Narcissa become

the

them

of

party

proceeded

three

Ogden,

box

Nez

Waila later

the

ahead

Miles

along

laden

the

sandy

were

upper

Hagerman,

Boise

wagon

at

to

the

to

Before

Perce

to

mouth

a

Snake

Fort

to

days,

found

Walla to

there

with

Whitman

Utah.

trapper

Goodyear,

at form

pack

plains

make

company

limit

River.

box

Fort

up

be

iould

a

Boise.

of

reaching

but

Mr.

then

Idaho

a

Burnt

and

slower

their

animals

known

sure

and

catching

Vancouver.

the

of

cart.

on

with

and

before

furs

McLeod

Here

bring

continued

then

the

leaving

one

the

that

Boise

they

mission

River

as

later

pace

William

the

and

through

salmon

they

Then

of

west

Glenn’

salmon.

continue

reaching

enough

everything

had

who

and

the with

valley

the

Canyon

the

to

He

arrived

with

on

bank among

their

was

s

proc..

run

earn hired

Gray

cattle

to

cart,

to

buffalo

Ferry,

A

only

the

of

64 in

r [ [

[

L r [

L

L H

-

( C . Roreshoe wished.” tender, resembling dered this mount more men we I decending and length to very Steuben miles to climbed Rondo August fell short Qtief desire did. decend Five usually The in afternoon steep “We it much this Narcissa betdM from River food Rotten all some I Ridge. 28 party the County, had Points into it They have it. a one until as and at unshod, its much 0 ” walked supply. places newly more no near to the the would the had Belly yet of exceeded enjoyed dreadful The junction Creek sooner Having hunt New we the aggravating scenery where Blue mouth crossed McAdamized seen.” but horses almost so had. turn to York. They and most for that the Mountains gained lunch I guide everything was taken La of with brought could in reminded their came Meacham appeared perpendicular. terrible “It ride Ladd Grande we Before before a and them. road. the the the some zig was could into not through night Canyon via in resting path Grande is foot zag like Creek noon her we refreshment us,” get to mountains the twenty-two In not Our now Fox have camp marmer dread all of and of the permission winding the the Grande she from make horses Ronde Hill, located at her the We the had on nooned Baker ne pines continued. the the all were Spring for the native this mountain way yet River. then and Rondo ducks stairs feet hill meadow day and Valley, the progress steepness on on to, a was creek and rest. continued Mountain long were they hills this after the Vailey to way as neither in what very when at add “We much about Grande MoLeod down. time its very afternoon “began Our the we of dinner and. ren stony, on did to another, as to decent through ride did mouth in seven their not 65 The [ E [ F [ [

L [ [

[

F F -‘

C

balanoe

3rd, The

the them

Townsend

of Fort rapidly

The McLeod west

and had

my us

Narcissa

of sun from the

St. aptly

of summit continued

the

mind

and

this

Whitmans

East birds

heavily

half.

his

was

Helens.

about Columbia

to

Waila

On

side The

each

described

post,

sent

at

of

of his

moving September

tent

from hiding

gigantic

Fork.

of

party

continued,

of

of

this

other the Horseshoe north noon,

Waila

native

Philadelphia,

laden back

Narcissa

were

the

John

the

pitched

the

Valley These

Caravan

McLeod.

descended hour

part

After

by

as along

the

Columbia.

to

for Blue

fatigue

cone.

royally

McLeod

1,

pack

wife,

a lofty

resembling

be

of and,

of Ridge

“contrasts

Spaldi.ngs

1836

wrote

four

for

consicterable reaching

Mountains

its

arrived.

welcomed

horses

his twilight

The

who

a

under them

the

peaks

“two

entertained

a

in pack

as rocky

woman

in

ray-s

The naturalist

beauty

had

time

ridge

the

had

her

and

distant

the

with

which animals

well

were

a

by Paris

at was which

summit

They

of

ridden

newly

sun

been

for

journal.

supper

distance,.

summit

Pierre

last.

into

of

the

Chief

with

enchanting

of

was

I

had

at born

breakfast

this

mountains,

gave

who

unable

labored.—..” loaded

which McAdamized

conical

ahead,

Cree

Squaw

the

ready.

the

“Crossed

setting of

not

Rotten

C.

was

Pambrun

us

extensive

They

Horseshoe

Fort. tribe

Pambrun

rolling

Behind

in

been

with to

a

Creek

making

and

and

form

they

more

many

Belly

keep

rested They

Mt.

they

them

road..”

expected

then

from

John beaver

quite

On

where

the

and

arrived

chief

mountains

valley,”

distinct

Hood

places

a

up were

cauld

Ridge

and

September

in

Manatoba.

Kirk study introduced

a

former

separate

with

diverted

pelts.

a McLeod

day

and

From

the

trader

on

quite

day

they

see is

at

while of

the

the view

Mt.

behin4

the

the very

66 4 67 so soon but bad had better success with the tired stock than had r been anticipated. It is not known for sure, but it is highly probable that they had taken the easier though somewhat longer [ route via Meachata and Cayuse. With heavily laden pack animals and - cattle it is not likely that Rotten Belly would have chosen to L cross the Meacham Creek Canyon.

On September 6, the Whitinans and Spaldings started down the Columbia with Pambrun in a company batteau. McLeod had left with [ the fur packs on the third and Townsend had gone with him. The missionaries arrived at Fort Vancouver on September 12 to be [ welcomed by Dr. John McLaughlin, the Hudsont a Bay Company’s Chief Factor and governor of the past. L McLaughlin recommended that the missionaries locate one r mission in the Walla Waila Valley among the Cayuse and one on the Clearwater with the Nez Perce. The Reverend Samuel Parker had also made this recommendation, so it was decided that Spalding would go to the Clearwater and Whitman to the Walla Waila. Since both the Nez Perce and Cayuse spoke almost identical languages the matter of translations would be simplified and these tribes were considered among the most intelligent and progressive in the entire Oregon Country.

On September 21, leaving the ladies at Fort Vancouver, Whitman,

— Spalding, and Gray left to look over the ground and erect winter quarters. Narcissa busied herself while at Vancouver teaching the - children both in studies and singing. She became fond of Dr. and Mrs. McLaughlin who enjoyed her company and they became good friends. On October 18, Spalding returned for Narcissa and Eliza while Whitman stayed at Walla Waila to complete the first house. Finally • 68

on November 3 the party started up the river in two boats. John r McLeod back from a trapping expedition on the Tlmpquain charge of the boat in which Narcissa rode and the Spaldings in the other. r It was a cold, rainy trip but they arrived at Fort Walla Walla in r due time to be welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Pambrun and Chief Rotten Belly who had come to escort the Spaldings to the Clearwater. Marcus [ came down to the Fort before the Spa].dings left with the Nez Perce and reported he and Gray had almost completed one room of their [ house. Henry and Eliza Spalding left soon with the Nez Perce where they would have to winter in a skin teepee before they could build a 0house [ Pambrun prevailed on Whitman to leave Narcissa at the Fort until the house could be completed. A few weeks later Marcus came [ for her and they moved to the site of the new mission which was on the Waila Walla River about twenty five miles from Fort Walla Waila and about sIx miles west of present day Walla Walla. The place was known to the Cayuse tribe as the place of Rye Grass or L in the Cayuse laiguage Wai—i—lat..pi.

The Cayuse were not a large tribe in comparison with the Nez [ Perce. They were a bold, independent people, rich in horses and r were known as the Imperial tribe of the Columbia. Their numbers had been reduced to about three hundred warriors at this time by their struggles with the Snakes and as a result of epidemics that affected them about the year 1800. The Nez Perce were much more numerous and it has been estimated that they could assemble at least three thousand warriors. It is known for a fact that over two t,housand warriors had been gathered together at one place more than czce. 09 We will leave the Nhitmans at puWaii—lat and foflow the Spaldings to their chosen location 0on the Clearwater called Lapwai. C

4 70

THE INIUENCE OF THE SPALDINGS

C” On the 29th day of November 1836 Henry Harmon Spalding and Eliza Spa].ding arrived at Lapwai, which Spalding had previously selected as the site for their mission to the Nez Perce. Eliza Spa1ding frail at the outset of their long overland journey, found her health improved beyond all expectations. Only for three weeks and three days did they have to live in the buffalo hide teepee. Mr. Spalding and Mr. Gray with the help of the Indians had built a log house forty—eight feet long by 18 feet wide. The Spaldings used eighteen feet of one end for

- - their home and the larger room was used as a school, meeting room and church.

There seems no doubt that the Nez Perce chiefs that met the missionary party at the rendezvous on Green River, Lawyer (Ish-hol hol....hoats...hoats) and Tak-en-sue—tis (Rotten Belly) had picked the

Spaldings in preference to the 1hitmans. The Nez Perce loved Mrs. Spalding in particular the frail, rather homely Eliza, won their hearts somehow. She must have possessed some rather remark able traits of character to have won the popularity contest with the glamorous and beautiful Narcissa 1hitman. The Nez Perce adopted Mrs. Spalding almost at once. They

said “She had a quiet heart — was not exciteable, and readily picked up their language.” Mrs.-La’wyer was with Lawyer when the Nez Perce met the missionaries at Green River. She did not accompany

the missionaries to Fort WaJ.la Walla but went with Lawyer back through: the buffalo -country to help lay up a winter supply of meat. Only Tak—en—sue-tis accompanied the missionaries to make sure the I Spaldings came to the Nez Peree country. In later years Mrs. Lawyer said, “Mrs. Spalding was so kind, so gentle, so altogether good.

1Jhy, she could talk quite well with us before she reached our own land.” The Spaldings taught the Nez Perce many things. Mr. Spalding preached and taught agriculture. Mrs. Spaldirig taught school for both children and adults, she also taught domestic arts. Mr. Spalding helped in the school room. Together, the Spaldings translated the

gospel of St. M.thews into the Nez Perce tongue. About a year after building their first house, they moved the

V Mission to the Clearwater near the mouth of the Lapwai and built a larger house. Spalding fenced in fifteen acres of ground for cultivation, both for self-support and as a demonstration farm for

the Indians. He planted an orchard and felt that he was as much a missionary while planting or hoeing his corn and potatoes as when he translated the book of Mathew into the native tongue. Three years passed before the Mission received its first con.. verts. These wore only two; Old Joseph, (Tu_a..kas) and Timothy (Tam-niut—sin). They had, “finished their minds” to foilow the new way. About four more years passed before any more formal converts were made. In 1839 a printing press was received at Lapwai. Mr. E. 0. Hal]. and wife came with the press to operate it. The work of the Mission, the church and the school was greatly helped by the

printing press. Many Nez Perce learned to read and write. Dr. Elijah 3White Sub Agent for Indian Affairs West of the Rocky Mountains, visited Lapwai in 1842. At a great council a code of laws was adopted, and a Head iief for the Nez Perce elected. This was Ellis, a young man whom the Nez Perce had sent to the Red River Settlements with the Hudson’s Bay people and who had been educated there. L [ L [1 L r E [ [ [ r -

penetrated where investigation at unite later and because the authority trol. dwelling, the have stood turbed rejected and Here their entire

Perce chief, to

the

Henry

people

former

foilow corporal

been The The The he

Ellis

misunderstandings

the under

principles

later emergencies

time Each nest Nez for

his

died

number

most

code Spaldings

Hart

an Nez as fines

was much

into

their other situation Perce

band o a and looked opinions

punishment

their

egotistical of

was

of

Perce

single of

the

Spalding.

the

the but

made of of

smallpox

transgressions.

had people. hearts” them. and

Laws

made

such

Massacre a had back

converts

influence only

Nez

politioal they

was

their his leader stated and

custom.

provided

three in as

by

with

and They Perce Head

were

resumed.

knowledge individual and life

or

war 1855

The This

lashes,

Chief

was were number

but

trouble.

or

went

and got children shame Chief

homes not

denanded

eldest, Their organization, so

death

after

chief system

was

killed

uncomfortable

not

after

or good

There

ready to

the was

of

The ever

at

and

unharmed. to leader

Chiefs

for

the numerous the

and

beaver

their

Eliza at

of

judgement

number

him white

about respected.

a

concerted

was were

for

to

murder

buffalo

missions

Lapwai,

remarkable after government

wield who like

only

not his

was treatment which

pelts

10

men 1847

determined

but

that

held the

well

laws.

or

hornets advanced

could

exercised at

never action country Eliza, authority

or

the at in

the

for

Weia.ye—lat-poo

Only

crisis

was he

his

extent.

liked.

Wei—i—lat-poo

1848.

fact

of sway

teachings

Ellis burning

some

left

fully

from Martha position foreign

did in

by

Ellis. to ideas

was

such

led

and over instances

a

offenses

The them, live. the

He

seems a

under

An

sub

to

over

of

and

diSa.

con

Jane

taught

Iez

bands

to the

a

to 73 had been abandoned in 1846 after the massacre at 1Wei..j.. lat—pooj and was found that in the homes of about one it third of F’ the Nez Perce (one thousand persons) regular morning and evening r worship and public worship was kept up with the singing of the Nez - Perce hymns and the reading of the book of Nathew, which the Spalciings had translated for them eight years before. The Nez Perce continued to raise potatoes and other garden products. There were large gardens at the winter villages along the Grande Ronde, Joseph Creek, and Imnaha. Some of the older people stayed to look after them while the rest of the village performed

Li their annual migration to gather food by hunting, fishing, digging roots and picking berries. Also, as tie years passed, more and more 1’ L of their time was devoted to careing for their stock,’ horses and [ cattle. These they moved to spring, suimner and fail pasturage and - back again to winter pasture near their viflages. After the treaty [j. of 1863 was forced upon the Nez Perce, nearly all such improved garden grounds were among the first places filed on by white settlers. L This occurred on the Grande Ronde, Joseph Creek, Imnaha, Salmon

River, Wnitebird Creek, .A.sotin Creek and other places. Many Nez Perce would gladly have filed on these places as homesteads if they

had been allowed to do so, and renounced their tribal status. ‘What better way could have been devised to encourage a rapid assimilation? L There can be little doubt that the influence of the missionaries was largely responsible for the gradual movement to force the Indians of most tribes upon reservations of small size. This was designed to force them to live in small areas where they could be under the constant watchful eyes of the missionaries, They wanted a captive audience and the idea of Indians as scattered independent r stockmen or farmers was distasteful to them. Their interest was not in the economic welfare, or independence, or even in the rapid civilization of the Indian, but rather preparation for the after r life and the saving of souls according to the tenets of their par.. ticular religious denomination. 0Rev Henry Harmon Spalding had a wider, more tolorant and en..

— lightened viewpoint. He taught as a minister and a country Agent. [ ss Kate C. McBeth says in, T X iS A CIRK, [7 “He (Mr. Spalding) felt he was as much a missionary when planting or

hoeing his corn and potatoes, as when translating the book of Mathew into the natIve 11tongue. [7 Mr. Spalding did regret the extended absences of some of his

[7 people when they went to the buffaJ.o country, as these trips some.. r times took a year or longer. As for the summer trips to fish, hunt and gather roots and berries, he recognized that they were necessary and that there were certain intangible values as well. Spalding took [7 his preaching arid his teaching to the ez Perce after the fashion

[7 of a Circuit Rider, his preaching points were Alpawa, Shemenekam (Lewiston), Lapwai, Askiwewa, Asotin and Kamiah.

L Mr. Spalding with the assistance of the Nez Perce, built a sawmill and gristmill at Lapwai and a gristmill at Alpowa. [‘ All these improvements and educational endeavors were brought to a sudden halt and abandoned after the massacre of the whitman L at Weiye..lat—poo by the Cayuse on November 29, 1847. The Nez Perce L protected the Spaldings from the anti..inissionary hysteria and furnished an armed party of forty to escort them to Fort Wafla Waila.

— The Spaldings went to the Willainette Valley and settled there .there Mrs. Spalding died in 1851. Mr. Spalding married a second time while in the Willamette Valley.

Although his home was there, his heart was among the Nez Perce, Be returned to Lapwai in 1862 wider government appointment as Superin.. tendent of Education, but that office was abolished in 1865. Again he taught the Nez Perce much of value during those three years. In 187]. Mr. Spalding again returned to Lapwai as a missionary.

There was now an Agent there, Mr. John Nonteith and as the Nez Perce came to Spalding with their troubles and constantly sought his advise, this led to strained relations between the Agent and Miss ionary. So, the Presbytery at a meeting in the spring of 1873 ad vised Spalding to move up to ICamiah, which he did. He still rode the circuit preaching in Alpowa, Lewiston, Lapwai, Asotin, North Fork and Kaimiah, He preached among the Spokanes and often among the Umatiilas. Spalding died at Lapwai August 3, 1874 and was buried there near the site of his old mission house, “aged seventy years, eight months and seven days.’

Spa1dings iffluerice among the Nez Perce was great indeed, and long lasting. The cntire tribe respected him and valued his advise, but their affecticn and love they gave to the gentle, kindly under standing, Eliza Spalding.

Some careless historians have stated that after the Whitman massacre, Old Joseph of the Waflowa band of Nez Perce rejected the teachings of Christianity and returned to the religion of his fathers, as did most of his people. This however, was not the case. He was a practicing Christian until the time of the signing of the treaty of 1863 by the Lawyer faction of the Nez Perce tribe. It was at that time that he tore up his cherished copy of the New Testiment that

Spalding had given him and renounced the ways of the white man. How— McUNTAINMEN

The Nez Perce of Wall owa County, Chief Joseph’s Band, so far as

it is now known never had a white man who lived with them and who advised and helped them. The Nez Perce in the Lapwai, Clearwater and Asotin area were fortunate to have several. The most noted and the man who helped them most to understand and deal with the whites was ex-mountain man William Craig. The bottom fell out of the fur market during the late 1830’s, the American fur companies pulled back onto the prairies where buffalo robes became their main source of business. The mountain men and trappers who still roamed the Rockies were reduced to a bare exis tance. Some like Jim 8ridges traded. with the Indians and overland

travelers, A few took to pillage arid horse stealing. Some hunted buffalo for the Companies, while others lived with the Indians of the various tribes into which they had married.

William Craig and. John Larison came to the Lapwai country with their Nez Perce wives and settled there in the late fall of 1840. They

came from Fort Hall to Wai—i—].et—poowith a trio of mountain men who

had also married Nez Perce women. Robert “1)cc” Newell, Joe Meek and Caleb Wilkins had married Nez Perce sisters and they settled in the

Willamette Valley with their families. Newell visited the Nez Perce several times for extended periods. Finally moving to the reservation where he later served a short time as Indian Agent. This party of mountain men was the first to bring wagons through from Fort Hall to Wai—i—let-poo (3 of them), although they got there with only the running gears.

William Craig’ a place was near the Mission of Lapwai. He 1”

farmed and raised stock and was a true friend of the Nez Perce. He C was also highly regarded by the whites. He often acted as inter.. preter. Craig and Spalding are reported to have had some violent quarrels but Craig assisted Spalding in many ways. Article 10, of the Nez Perce Treaty of 1855 is quoted here:

“The Nez Perce Indians having expressed in council a desire that WiUiam Craig should continue to live with them, he having uniformly shown himself their friend, it is further agreed that the tract of land now occupied by him and described in his notice to the register and receiver of the land office of the Territory of Washington, on the fourth day of June last, shall not be considered a part of the reservation prcvided for in this treaty, except that it shall be subject in cor.nnon with the lands of the reservation to the operations of the intercourse ”0act This in itself shows that William Craig was a permanent resident of the area, settling there in 1840 and living on his land 15 years. Years later, William Craig’ s farm was the first piece of patented land to be recorded in the Territory of Idaho. Other mountain men, miners, at least one missionary, and frontiersmen, married Nez Perce women and lived on or near the re. servation and speeded the civilization of the Nez Perce. The Uniatifla, Waila Walla and Cayuse tribes also had several white men married to their women and living on or near their reser.. vations. The majority of these men were ex—Hudson’s Bay men. Cie

such was W. C. McKay. In Article 1 of the Treaty of 1855 between the United States arid the Confederated Tribes, Waila Waila, Cayuse and Uinatila; the following excerpt is quoted, “Thence northerly along said divide to a point due west of the southwest corner of

W. C. McKay’s land claim; thence east along this claim to the south.. lihites.

McKay’ Perhaps

east

in

some

No These

corner;

$

he

such cases claim

This

men

did

me:

thence

was was

heIpr1

nct

exorcised

ware

noteably

just

need

in

secure

on

a

outside

help.

line hand

considerable

true

better

to to

the

in

assist

the

the treatment reservation.

place

influence

case

Chief

of

of

of

beginning.”

Joseph

William

the

over

Indians

and

the

Craig.

his

Indians

Thus

from

band.

the

and and

traded

pasturing Columbia. on emigrants die, proof which mission tracted that xneasels stealing affected racial these such disease tribes ing one frequently cold

the

broken

half

sickness

water,

as There if at One

After

that two

continued

basis

by

resistance of

the were not the brought at THE least

horses

but

of

of

arrived emigrants

years.

the stock

to were Subsequently

Lapwai,

Dr. the

caused

practice

was disease

the indeed the

CAUSES

of with their

especially

work,

one Inland

Whitman

massacre

Uriatiila and of claiming on anong

especially

cses intermittently

in unnecessary half hot

to Over

poisoning

losses

favorite OF course it

when were

recovered cattle

the

of Empire

the

appeared THE the

steam

was

of one of

this

many

at deadly

valuable poor

white stock Grnde

tribe

also the

the other

CIJUSE

Cayuse

Wai-i-lat-pu

half

from

intentionally

severe

was

baths

grazing

whites

them stock

massacre

or and deaths.

Cayuse

with were

mans

that died. for through

Ronde the

factors imminent.

of

WAR worn

tribe

additions purposely.

this

for followed

fattening

the the

white

lands Indians.

a of

diseases.

severe.

AND

tribe

Valley

The out,

this general

Walla was

trading by rrany

Reliable 1847.

Indians

leading and

allowing THE

brands, Nez

of the

by

for died the type

to the

of

Waila Host

the TREATIES

or in

This up-rising

a The emigrant

Perce

liquor who the the

Indian Their

severe

abandonment the on plunge to

of estimates of

Indians,

which whites

the

effects

was

later had the the

tribe

Indians severe sickness

were

lush

method

to OF epidemic

Indians

stock

measels developed plains usuaily

train

or

had

of

1855 who

bunchgrass1

less the and emigrant

and rinse discontent, indicate

of

the

considered

when

been of of and

this

of

about Indians, con

to

severely of

the

Indian treat of done during

18L6

in

no

the the trains and were frecuently taken by force on the basis of the white brands and in spite of the fact that they had been legally acquired by the Indians. Perhaps most important of all was the general attitude of the whites toward the Indians. The pioneers in nearly all cases harbored unusually strong racial prejudices against the Indians, which had been fostered by generations of atrocity tales, until a great many of the imigrants honestly believed that, “the only good Indians were dead Indians.” The imigrants seemed incapable of distinguishing between the basically friendly, highly moral, Sahaptian stock of Indians and

other tribes who were actually enemies of the whites. Insults arid

outrages against Indian women were all too frequent. In spite of these aonditions the Nez Perce used all their in fluence to prevent armed conflict with the whites. William Craig and Old Joseph met the Oregon volunteers at Wai-i-lat-pu with 250 warriors and arranged for peace. Joseph came to the council under

an American flag carrying a New Testament. The soldiers campaigning against the Cayu.se, Walla Walla and Uinatillas punished them severely in revenge for the Whitman massacre, but the Nez Force were not bothered. General Joel Palmer, Indian Agent for Oregon, appointed Wiiliam Craig as Indian Agent at. Lapwai with the powers of a magistrate at this time, Narch 1848. Craig acted as local Indian Agent for many years. The winter of 1846_Il.? was the most severe known in the Northwest since the coming of the whites. Deep snows and long weeks of sub zero weather kifled most of the Indians growing cattle herds, many ( of their horses and most of the game. The Indians lacked sufficient food supplies for such a winter, they were reduced to short rations L [ [ [ [ [ r [ [ r [ r I r

women.

three the with William Nez Territory date whites. of of council at prosperity Red not late ravages and crops. of Umatilla official followed unfortunate grain

Wafla

Indians the Lapwai

other Wolf

Perce their

have

the Genera].

During In and

hundred

and

entire

The Mr. May in

of

Craig

Wafla.

treaties would had He documents. and

occurred, game

tribes, weakened

attended of vegetables

in

measels. attending with the

Nez

turn remained the of Anson

Washington Walla

Joel 1851 a

warriors

was

almost Nez

Waila

1855 undoubtedly

fine

Perco next considerable

The

of

were

including Palmer and Dart, their

Perce

Wailars

the

arid condition

Isaac events

orchard

Walla

the

non-existant. This Ccnincil at few Spring each

constituted

commended

at

council. signed. even

and tribe. Lapwai principle

of

years treaty

Indian

would

the year,

Stevens

had

Valley have the the

Walla

Indian at if came

lasted progress rendered

council.

Wai-i-lat.-pu

where not

Alpowa. the

Indian it

with Agent It council. turned the indicate

late Not

Wallas,

near about had

Governor advisor

been Agent

is Nez

from If

good

more he potatoes

them in

for occurred, stated along service

the

the out Perce

Many The

one developed so

May 1847,

behavior a

for

Umnatiilas,

than The Oregon and

more

present period quite

severely strength of

massacre

balance half

agricultural

were

that

23 the

of

held

the as

Cayuse contact

the

sixty

the to

the susceptible

Territory, Northwest, differently.

of one

twenty newly a and of

seldom

salmon a June site

was

reduced the prosperous of Nez Indian

probably

numbered routine peace Palouses, of

of

man

unusual

the

made whom

total their U of Perce formed

lines. mentioned

five

runs with

War

and the Cayuse, on

by

to

held together

up were

council

would

which hundred progress numbers principle about raised

were which

this the the towr farm. some

of

a

in

States

of

and

insisted

River

them

would

the

safety

against Many

would

Cayuse

tribes

home

lot

Mountains, Waflas,

were

country.

bands

mollified

but was

fartherest

Indians

small

not

Article

Shoshonee

with

and

were

strongly-opposed

of

territory.

allowed

country

place

The

have

Government

to

of

from

adjacent

Chief,

to

the

the

Cayuse

that

the

to

the

exceed

to

Columbia

white

accept

The

by

been

V which

the

them

proposal from

move

Chiefs

Snakes. be

Umatillas

of

the to

which

being

peoples.

Istachus,

Walla

and

required

Snakes,

treaty

bands,

so

ten

this

keep

the

too

into

the

in was

Stevens

immigrant

River

were

drawn

Umatillas

placed

allowed

Walla

locating

thousand

white

near

on

Grande

normally

treaty

a

However,

by

the

negotiators

and

and

small

so

was

Stevens the

agreeable

Indians

to

all

as

and

Nez

their

a

the

these

settlements

the

Cayuse,

travel

take

to

grounds

instrumental

to

Ronde

being

provides

tribes.

and

Palmer

dollars

area

eventuafly

Perce

a

before

barrier

retain

Yakhnas,

join

and

traditional

part

and

in

three

opening

to

Valley

few

be

on

first

but

several

Palmer

country

that

the

tried

most

this

be

that,

of

diverted the

accepting

Eventuaily

a

in

of

tribes

and

they

large

the

Nez

expended

the

signed

locating

tried

in

as

numbers

a

west

the of

proposal

to

would

routes

wagon

among

more

as

having

enemies,

second

Perce

their

retained

Cayuse

the

induce

area

Blue

voted

around

slope

their

to

a

that

Palouses.

or

the

not

road

by

decided

other

treaty

of

the

get

reservation.

reservation

Mountains

in

largest

but

the

and

less

for

these

the

of

area

Yakimas

travel,

territory

The

guarantee

none

the

their

all

tribes

around

vote

a

Umatila

the

things

the

United

in

independent

Snakes

to

reservation

the

of

three

of

group.

which

Blue

The

homeland,

tlniatiila

go

cast

were

bet:reen but

the

there

their

chif

which

was

their

Walla

a

of

this

83

their they the south boundary of the reservation. The wording in the treaty does not specifically state that the Government would undertake to prevent imagrant travel through the reservation, but the writer has been informed by reliable old Indians of the Umatifla Reservation that such was the understanding at the time the treaty was signed. This road provided for in the treaty was actually built, but only after several years. The treaty was ratified by the U.S. Senate on March 8, 1859 and Proclaimed and signed by Jaiires Buchanan, President of the United States of America, on April U, 1859. However, it was in part poorly laid out with numerous crossings of the Grande Ronde River between Hilgard and Starkey, which made the road unde sirable during high water periods and most of the travel continued over the Old Oregon Trail via Neacham. The Nez Perce treaty was quite satisfactory to the Nez Perce as it allowed them to retain most of their territory. They gave up roughly the equivalent of the present Garfield County of the State

Gf Washington, and part of Whitman County, with a few winter village sites in addition, such as, Starbuck, Almota, Wa—wa-wai and their beloved Tucannon River. The Indians signed the treaties under duress. Governor Stevens is reported to have told them, ‘if they refused to seil, soldiers would be sent to wipe them off the earth.” What proud people would not have resented such a threat. Qüef!s Lawyer, Joseph and Looking Glass were able diplomats and secured for their people the best possible deal at the time. It is believed by students of the treaty proceedings that Looking Glass’s late arrival at the council at which time he summarily de nounced all the prior negotiations was a calculated move on the L r L [ L [ L r

I-i

L I, [ -

(

Washington

claimed Glass’ the

was on treaty not lodges. Saturday without

Lieutenant

to

to for

to was and stratagem the paid

receive Cayuse, the the

part

concessions

Sunday,

the

suppose

settle

Nez

left

gone

the least, populous

true

best

stratagem

Now,

in

of

speech

and

council

by

Perce

dismounting

Wafla Nez

the the

Joseph,

me

you June I

even

deal

it

for

caused

north

his:

but none wiil

Lawrence

that

their

a

Perce

form

at sam

seems

have

tribes,

on

Chiefs

9 place

Walla’s

their was

though

that

band,

on

assembly

the

Looking talk of

it

Lawyer

of

the

any

payment

of amount

Monday,

sold

can

successful

reasonable

the

did.

they

last

the

n Kip,

from

annuities, small

which

8th

signed to

altering

the

so

not

and

which Indians

my

and

Gr’ande

you.

Glass

he

reduced were

moment, as

that

his

was

It “My

Nez

June

country.

now Utnatilla’s

reservation.

was

made

the

Looking

the

will

to people, horse.

to only Porce able

his

to

made

be

of

Roride

roughly

would Uth

This

Yakima’s

silaries

treaty.

pitch

a

in

a after

suppose

be

the determined,

particular

short

to

degree

$100,000.00

a

nu.mbers

relinquished

Glass

when

occurred

I

recalled

River,

what

sign.

strong He

boundaries

who

engineer.

my

have

Joseph

what

Whether

and said,

namely for

the

from

lodge.

gave for

aimed

have

come

by

had

is

The

speech

the

territory,

council

on

that very

but

the

and

the

as

disease, up

now

you

These

$200,000.00 at

in

June home, council

Looking

of

less

chiefs, It

Go

reported

there

the Lawyer

Nez

words

when

violent

securing

fact

Asotin

against

done?

the

is

home

convened,

8

most,

land.

once Perce

and

a

and.

he were

reservation

is

been

the

of

did

Glass’

had

etc. fact

to

County,

While there by

reason

rode powerful

speech

Looking

the

on

were

received to

additional

land

not

your

The compeiled

secured

excluded

that.

be This

all

up

meet

is

I

to r L L [ [ [

r r [

from

treaty turned Snake placing Alpowa great miles miles the thus Elgin—Weston line have Ronde Blue believed these Powder following inside territory. treaty of County summit salaries,

Oregon

reservation,

the

Mountains

been including

from

One

war

River

which below boundaries down

as from

the Creek River;

he in of

all

reservation.

thing these

chief signed

the the and able the to never following

reservation. the

at

an

of

the is

In

which

Highway

which

Washington,

reservation. Blue thence

‘divide

the

incursion

the

the from to Grande

payments addition just

should

of

mouth

accepted

on

as

Joseph

secure

mouth

the

it area

Mountains important he

June

the above

a Snake

to formed

followed

between was Ronde be duty of

The Nez

tributary head

the

he

should

11th

into of

had

From the an remembered, any

the River to

entitled.

winter

Perce

to

did

Asotin

the

River

important crossing

Wenaha

seen of

including follow Powder

of

left the

mouth Tollgate

his the

to

not

go

western Alpowa

to

the

and

village

Blackfoot

to the

waters to

people. north

to

the Creek.

the want

River

River:” of

instead

gifts,

he

Looking

it

of As those even

si.mmiit

concession

Snake

line to Gordon Creek practically

supposed that boundary

the

of he

to

of

of

the and

though

Looking

Elgin.

bands had payments, Now

feel

country.

up between

Snake the

Looking River

Glass’ of the to

Joseph

Looking

Crossing

Creek

Looking Alpowa

sold

the

Wall-lowhow

the

any

to

summit

of

which by

Joseph

River

Glass

at

From

all

have

village Blue

Tollgate

had and the the

no changing

obligation

Glass

annuities

At the

Glass

Creek

of

Glass

had of land,

of about reservation,

Territories that insisted fifteen

signed

was

Mountains any

just

mouth

the

Asotin

was

the

given

within

Creek

to

the rate

on may point and the he

re

Grande two

on

the

this

to or

of

the

on

up

the

the (

C

Washington,

Boundaries.

the in Cession

and United and Oregon Superintendent tendent

of Whitman affairs and Articles of whites 12

ground, Reservation. National in Chiefs.

Oregon

the

June,

Stats.,

these

being above

Bitter

between

Articles

The

and Nez

States,

in

of

of for

Camp National

in

of

pages. Forest,

entire

Territory. named

duly

any

Lands

partly Root

Perce p0957, Indian

and

the

the

agreement :saac

Stevens

9

slightest

authorized Isaac

and

tribe Mountains

Superintendent year

Territory

text

and

to

tribe

TREAT’f

Forest all It

in affairs

Proclamation, I.

the

the

will

10

Washington

I.

one Stevens,

of of

of

and

in

undersigned

were of

United

WITH

Stevens

was

the the degree.

Indians

thousand the

be

thereto

on Indians

for

of

convention

Wallowa

Nez noted

included included

Washingtcn,

behalf Walla

THE

Oregon

governor

States. Palmer

assumes Territories,

Apr.

Perçe

residing

NEX

by

occupying

eight

that

Walla

chiefs,

of

National

them,

made

Tsrritory,

29, PERCES, at

in

with

treaty

and

and

a

to

hundred

the this

Valley, and 1859. large

within

and

those

treat acting it head-men,

superintendent

lands

expressed

between

1855

Forest Joel of

original

being

concluded

part

Ratified and 1855

on

residing

the

only this

for lying

Palmer,

the

understood

fifty—five, and

of

Territory

the

and

foilows

with

said

Ne eleventh desire

part

the

partly

part at

Mar.

delegates

Cascade

exclusively

superin of

Perce

those

tribe,

the Umatilla

of

next Indian

of of

8,

of that the

in day treaty

by

the

the ‘F,

1859 of L [ [ L [ r [ L [ [ L [ I [ r 1

(

ARTICLE linquish

Wo—na—ne-she and interest

that the Mountains; Tucanon

thence and between

crossing Root Salmon of Reservation. to ARTICLE

Walla, for

Territory, servation of

cing tributary flows to

the described

the

Snake

land the

the

river the

Mountains;

where

to 1.

from Rivers place Salmon

River;

mouth Cayuse, and the

in crossing

use 2.

included

of

River,

a

to

for thence The

and to

not point waters

the the convey Snake

or There

and

as

of the

of

the River;11 fifty

Boundaries0

thence other

said to

southern

to

and Moh—ha—na—she

spurs follows, beginning. thence

at occupation

the

oI’

main

within southerly on

mouth River, the

is,

exceed to of

the

tJmatila Nez

miles

the

friendly Woil—low-how Grande

the up

the

of country thence

however, Palouse;

along mouth

Perce

of Snake tributary

the

Woll—low-how the

the at to

the United

above

the

of along Ronde

wit: the

Tucanon

tribes foilowing

Bitter

due the

of

tribes present tribe

or occupied River

the

Ti..natpanup

reserved thence

mouth the

the

States

souther north

crest

the

River, River;

Conirnencing of

said

and of

Root place ten

Tucanon to and

the

ridge numbers

and of

in

boundaries, Indians

or to

of

tribe, its bands

aU

miles

from bands

midway thence Mountains; tributary Powder

Palouse a

Powder known claimed the the

southerly

source of

their

River;

at

Creek;

the

of of

below Bitter summit

and the of hereby

between

along

River; the

(as)

the

Indians, River;

River;

lands

Indians

by right,

in as Blue

to of

thence

thence thence source the

Spokane, them, the Root of direction

the a

wit: the cede,

the

thence

above Mountains;

general Grand

thence

thence

mouth the

title,

crossing

Blue

in the divide

Palouse Mountains up

bounded

of down

southerly

re

Ccmmen—

Bitter

Washington

the

Walla— ceded Ronde

tract

to the

of

to

down

to

re

00

and

said

the

the River

Indian,

provided

this

any

citizens

of

States,

ground

In

upon

tendent

the

the

an

and

the

All not

Reservations

place

the

below

Poser

between

thence

Mountains;

River

the

the

the

lands

Indian

said

employment

time,

marked

which

U.S.

to

the

crossing;

Al-ço—wa4.iwi

not

owner

mean

of

the

Rivers;

such

in

reside

and

and

along

that

of

same reservation

the

not

beginning.

rervation;

the

and

tract

in

mouth

out

the

upon

time

as

agent;

thence

of

any

Grand

actually

the

to

within

the

not

Blue

thereon

thence

thence

fields

of

for

United

claimants

shall

any be

it

of

substantial

River;

actual

divide

the

included

and

Ronde

to

Mountains;

the

set

the

shall

ground

without

one

by

to

enclosed

the

Indian

be

occupied

without,

States

the

nor

exclusive

apart,

Powder

thence

claim

the

year

the

between

and

set

guarantying,

be

crossing

said

in

shall

claimed

lawful

spurs

permission crossing

the

Department,

improvement

apart,

to

after

thence

the

and

and

River;

and

to

and

etc.

tribe

enter

mouth

the

any

use

reservation

the

Indians

occupation

of

cultivated,

of

cultivated

or

for

the

and,

waters

white

along

and

Improvements

the

thence

agrees

of

the

upon

source

however,

occupied,

of

these

ratification

of

the

be

heretofore

benefit

so

Bitter

the

Grande

to

the

man,

the

and

of

permitted

far

to

Snake

to

of

settle

of

to

Wofl-low-how

above

by

the

tribe

and

crest

the

occupy

the

remove

the

excepting

as

if

citizens

Root

reside

Ronde

of

said

to

Woll—low—how

River

houses

necessary,

right

with

Salmon

made

Al-po-.wa..wi

named.

said

thereon.

of

and

of

be

Mountains

to

Indians

as

to

River,

upon

this

the

paid

the

fifteen

the

reside

by

tribe

to

settlers

of

and

erected

those

River

River;

Blue

any

And

all

permission

the

any

treaty.

superin

for

midway

settle

Whites

at

surveyed

as

to

and

upon

in

United

miles abom

“7

by the \-

agrees

ARTIE

hunting, Payments anc ting tomed

through The

Indians; Privileges through highways. nearest States upon money money, upon other ience, Roads aforesaid. common the improvements in

CIJEZ3.

consequence

cattle

exclusive

President

temporary

the

the

places

hand, may

or

to

with

roads for

or

4.

or

the

public

by

as

gathering

reservation, lands

improvements

pay

be

improvements

upon

bordering

rafting The

secured

In the

also

reservation

the And

citizens

in

may made.

aforesaid,

to

right

of

consideration

buildings

use

highway,

hereby

of

United

open

conmion

privided right

the

the

be

the

this

roots,

to purposes,

of

of run

said

and right

said

United

of

the Indians.

of of and

ceded,

with

States.

taking

of treaty,

through now is the is

unclaimed

for

way, that,

equal

tribe

and

reservation

no

an

Clear

of

also

secured

citizens United

occupied States,

of

curing,

and

equal Indian and

berries,

taking

with fish

value

if

shall

the

in

Water

the

secured

which as

necessary

addition

land.

value

in to States,

free

above

will

public

and

said

together

of fish

by

be

shall

all

is

and

them,

and

he

the

him, payment valued to access

further

be be

reservation,

cession,

at

the

may

other

pastureing

highways.

be

to

citizens

to

Territory;

made required

as for

all

until

with

be streams travel furnished

the

under

also from

made the

streams

usual

secured for

compelled

the

goods

the

their

th public the

of

upon to

therefor

the said

where

their

and,

United

privilege

and and

the

him

abandon

right,

flowing

same

and

to value

direction

all Indian

United

accus of

to

on conven

horses

running

as said

provisions

to

States

erec.

the

public in abandon

in

in

the

the

of

of F’ [ [ L L [ [

p

L

L [ r

I.

F

(

and

keeping ratification school, able

The

relation United And

shall

AU years, thousand of next Payments, cretion, may thousand

the breaking provisions the distributed two

cation

say,

the

stationery,

United

which

the

deem fIrst hundred

President

points

five

sixty

each

States,

said

six

of

to

the

superintendent

thereto.

upon

dollars

up necessary, dollars

how years,

said

five this

be

year

States

thousand

arid thousand

within

The same

Indians,

thousand and to

hereof,

located

what

to

of

who

years sums

a treaty,

them

United one

inform

fencing

in

be

each

eight each the

suitable

to

said

beneficial may

repair, of

applied. of

each and

dollars,

at

two

establish

under

after United

dollars,

at

year.

year,

which

States

the

of money from

thousand

the

in

reservation,

the

farms,

the

schools

year,

Indian

providing

outfit,

President

the

the

time

and

time

remainder

States, commencing

agency,

shall

shall

to

further

objects

in

schools,

direction

and ratification building

providing

doilars

be

of

erecting

affairs, to

the

and

be

be

for

expended

signing

time

for the

within and

of

following

an

agrees

applied

to

for in

the

September

etc. the

houses, each their

first

to agricultural

determine, expend

of

annuities,

them the

or

such

next

this

be

wishes

one

the

under

of

to

other year;

necessary

to

year

removal

with

free

manner,

this

other

year

establish,

the President

five

treaty,

supplying

the 1,

the

proper

of

for after

to

furniture,

at

same 1856; treaty, as

after

use

years,

objects

and

the

to direction

the

his

the

follows: that

buildings,

the

and for

the’

the

industrial

Indians

officer,

of them

for

children the at

des

next

four

ten

is

sum

benefit them.

the ratifi.. reserve, as

suit

the

books,

with

to

he

five of

of

for

in C’

And

position

acres

occupied him, properly

person twenty to

and An occupying

Salary employees lishments accomodation

vided two

and tion erect tendent pair,

teachers; gunsmith, attached

shop, of

the

in

said ail

will

millers

furnished

at

of

of

view

with

one

and

one

years, as

Nez

to

the

a

the

of tribe,

by by,

land.

furnish

be

a

the much suitable

head

to to

wagon

saw..mil2. furnished one to

Perce

of

the

farming tinshop

his expenditures

called

to

Indians

such

be be

of

build

tribe after

the

with

carpenter,

of

necessary

chief; erect

and

tribe,

The

maintained

kept the

aiid

the

tribe

head

his

fact

point

upon,

the

and

and

and two to

may

said the

with

said plough in

same,

in

a

time,

house5

employ

and

chief

five

that

hospital,

necessary

trade, two one blacksmith to

ratification

select

service

and

on salary

to

employees. furniture

the one

the

no

and

and

maker’s

flouring-miil,

farmers,

the

hundred

the

perform the

expenses

so

etc. wagon

necessary

one

longer.

arid

other

to

to

kept

long

to

reservation,

United

head

for

keeping

tools

superintendent

plough be

to

shops,

be

the

and

shop,

dollars

any

the

in

two

a

as

hereof,

its

chief The

assist

contemplated paid

gunsmith’s

States repair buildings

and plough tools;

he

period

services

blacksmiths,

and head

the

said

and

to

keeping

may

to,

of

fixtures,

per

them

one

fence a

as

same

to

chief. the further buildings

as

maker,

to

be and

comfortable

of

year

a

keep

of

of

of

aforesaid, required

in employ

shop;

elected

salary tribe

twenty

the in

in the

for

which

teaching

a

the

for

repair,

and the

for

one

this

To

public agrees

same

his

said

one

is and

same; one

build the

for years.

to

the

tinner,

same

shall

to

for

fifth use house,

expected,

in

carpenter’s

house

and

estab employ

and

superin

that

term

to

such

character,

and

instruc

to

the repair,

in

ten

for

be

pay

the

two

pro

one re-

be

and

of [ article of this treaty shall be defrayed the United States, - and shall not be deducted from the annuities agreed to be paid to said tribe, nor shall the cost of transporting the goods fr the [ annuity-payments be a charge upon the annuities but shall be de frayed by the United States. [ Reservation may be surveyed into lots and assigned to individuals r or families. ARTICLE 6. The President may from time to time, at his discretion, cause the whole, or such portions of such reservation as he may think proper, to be surveyed into lots, afld assign the same to such mdlvi duals or families of the said tribe as are willing to avail them selves of the privilege, and will locate on the same as a permanent

L home, on the same terms and subject to the same regulations as are provided in the sixth article of the treaty with the Omahas in the F year 1854, so far as the same may be applicable. [ ARTICLE 7. The annuities of the aforesaid tribe shall not be taken to pay the debts of individuals.

L ARTICLE 8. The aforesaid tribe acknowledge their dependence upon the r Government of the United States, and promise to be friendly with all citizens thereof, and pledge themselves to commit no depredations on the property of such citizens; and should any one or more of them [ violate this pledge, and the fact be satisfactorily proved before

L the agent, the property taken shall be returned, or in default there— r of, or if injured or destroyed, compensation may be made by the L Government out of the annuities. Nor will they make war on any other r tribe except in self—defence, but will submit all matters of difference between them and the other Indians to the Government of the United

/ States, or its agent, for decision, and abide thereby; and if any of the said Indians commit any depredation on any other Indians within the Territory of Washington, the same rule shall prevail as that prescribed in this article in cases of depredations against citizens

And the said tribe agrees not to shelter or conceal offenderà against the laws of the United States, but to deliver them up to the author ities for trial. Annuities may be withheld from those who drink ardent spirits. ARTICLE 9. The Nez Perce desire to exclude from their reservation the use of ardent spirits, and to prevent their people from drinking the same; and therefore it is provided that any Indian belonging to the tribe who is guilty of bringing liquor into said reservation, or

who drinks liquors may have his or her proportion of the annuities withheld from him or her for such time as the President may determine, Land of Wilaim CraigD

ARTICLE 10. The Nez Perce Indians having expressed in council a desire that William Craig should continue to live with them, he having uniformly shown himself their friend, it is further agreed that the tract of land now occupied by him and described in his notice to the register and receiver of the land office of the Territory of Washington, on the fourth day of June last, shall not be considered a part of the reservation provided for in this treaty, except that it shall be subject in common with the lands of the reservation to the operations of the course act.

When treaty to take effect. ARTICLE ii. This treaty shall be obligatory upon the contracting parties as soon as the same shall be ratified by the President and Senate of the United States. 95 THEWALLCWA.NEZ PERCERESERVATION

By Executive Order dated June 16, 1873, President Grant ordered the following described land to be withdrawn from entry and settle.. ment and set apart as an Indian Reservation for Chief Joseph’s

Band of Nez Perce, inaptly describing said band as “the roaming Nez Perce Indians.”

‘Conunencing at the right bank of the mouth of the Grande Ronde River; thence up Snake River to a point due east of the southeast corner of township no. 1, south of the base line of the surveys in Oregon, in Range no. 46 east, of the Wilarnette meridian; thence from said point due west to the Fork of the Wailowa River; thence down said West Fork to its junction with the Wallowa River; thence down said river to its confluence with the Grande Ronde River; thence down the last—named river to the place of beginning.”

On June 10, 1875 the Executive Order of June 16, 1873 was re.. yoked by President Grant and the land in question was restored to the public domain for disposition under the Public Land Laws. The above described area consisted of approximately 1,400,00 acres. The Executive Order of June, 1873, to which reference is above made, contained a provision which in effect required members of Joseph’s Band to take up actual and continuous residence within the limits of the area so set aside for them by said Executive Order, and as a ground for the revocation of said order, it was alleged that Joseph’s people had not compiled with this requirement. Not with standing the later admitted fact that Joseph and his people did con tinue to occupy and reside exclusively within the area and made use of these lands in the customary manner including, hunting, fishing, root gathering, grazing and caring for their livestock, arid the 1D cultivation of some fields. The executive Order of Juhe 16, 1873 C was arbitrarily revoked on June 10, 1875. Joseph and his people continued to occupy and reside on these lands after the revocation order until the;r were ejected there—from by the sovereign power of the United States in 1877.

( THE BETRAYALOF THE NEZ PERCE

C When Governor Isaac I. Stevens came west to take over ther Governorship of the Territory of Washington, in 1853, he also held the office of Indian Agent for the entire area west of the Rocky

Mountains. He sent Lieutenant George B. MoCleilan to the Klickitats and Yakimas to arrange for a meeting with some of the chiefs to tell them that the Great White Father at Washington D. C. wanted to buy most of their lands and open them for white settlements. McClellan was engaged in exploratory survey work trying to locate a suitable route across the Cascades for the Northern Pacific

Railroad. He contacted a number of the chiefs including Ks-mi-akin and Ow-hi and told them that Governor Stevens would meet them next year, 18.54, for the purpose of arranging treaties to purchase their lands. This was extremely disquieting news to the Indians and word was sent to all the Inland Empire tribes by Ka-mi-akin and Ow-hi that the Great White Father in Washington D.C. wanted their lands and that if they wouldn’t sell soldiers would come and drive them out of the country. During the summer of 1854 Governor Stevens met several of the chiefs and told them that he wanted to arrange for a council the following year for all the tribes of Eastern Washington and Eastern Oregon to talk over the purchase of their lands. The Chiefs told him that the Indians would not sell their land. It is reported that Stevens then told them that, “if the Indians would not sell, the whites would take their lands by force and the Indians would get nothing.” Ie also told them that if they refused to sign treaties selling their land, “soldiers would be sent to wipe them off the face of the earth.” doing their had Governor Garry boundaries with

the the Washington hoped Wails posed Nez over the probably It men assemble of Grando at

cope

is

the the

whites. heretofore

general meeting

Perce

and

The when

The Word with

The

great

of people. so believed Waflas,

that

confederacy.

Ronde

end three

chiefs

that

the Stevens

council

great

the in Council

word

was

this

and

of

the

by secrecy of

agreement

place the

Spokanes Valley

most

great

war

each

the

30 and Kamiakin

sent

Lawyer

been

accomplishment leaked that

to Snake serious

Northwest.

and lasted

met

days

might

because

notable Looking

a Cayuse,

tribes

to

Indian to

rather

was

no Arrangements

great

selling that

and

were

reached of

prevent

out

all in

whites

emergency.

be

for

often

the

the Bannock

of

individual Umatilla through Glass the gathering fall Chiefs of council

the avoided. vagie

five

the The

part Nez

Grande

its

by

used of knew the

tribes

principle

in

Yaldmas,

Gra.nde

of

days

Perce, and

the the

tribes

remoteness to for

whites

of

the

some of

and the

of as

Ronde

form

of

their

territory.

tribal often the the

Council

of

and

the

Grande

a

Walla

Ronde NeZ

of

great

would

Istachus Eastern meeting

advocates

an tribal from Peo..peu-mox.mox

council

all Valley.

the

council

lands. time

Perce,

delegations

Indian

from

Wallas.

Valley

of

Ronde

Indian

the

learning

chiefs

come

disputed.

the

place leaders

Oregon

were Many white of

until

chiefs

to

They Valley of

and It Confederacy

was

the

Grande

leaders

friendly send

was

meeting

between

of carried

It

men.

arid

of

join

hoped

to

after

Cayuse chosen on

was

of these

spoke

the their

and the

be Eastern

Ronde

the

the

ever

the

The

also

was

purpose held by

with meeting.

the to

out it

as to

for lines and

exact

head

pro.

was was to r The objective of a tight confederacy of the tribes is not” achieved. The Snakes and Baimocks said they would fight if general war broke out, but would fight only in their own country and in.. [ dependently. The Nez Perce would not commit themselves except to fIght if attacked The Yakiiràs, Kliokitats, Cayuse and Waila Wallas [ were definately for war. Most tribes we±’e hesitant. The final r agreement seems to have been to play the game by ear’ to meet Governor Stevens to hear from his own lips what he had to say, to show by the tribal boundaries agreements, that there was no unclaimed land to sell; no neutral lands which might be claipied by the whites as not belonging to any tribe, and to hope for the best. L Chief Lawyer (Hal.halt—los—sot) of the Nez Perce has been a

very controversial figure on the pages of history. Some students of history consider him to have been a traitor to his race, while others maintain that he was a very wise man who did all that was humanly possible to guide the tribes of the Shaptian peoples along Li a course that would have lessened the evil effects of contact with

Li the whites and provided time for the gradual adjustment to the ex.. r treme changes which he could foresee as inevitable, leading to the eventual loss of their culture. Lawyer was a very inteiligent man, he was also very ambitious. With an education and knowledge gained [ by travel, a habit of keen observation and remarkable reasoning powers, [ he was undoubtedly the best informed Indian in the Northwest in regard to the strength and power of the whites. He also seems to L have been the Indian best able to read the white mans thoughts and antIcipate his probable reaction to any given situation. He knew L that the Indians could not hope to win a war with the whites and that any war of his people with the whites could only lead to dis aster and humiliation for the Nez Perce or other tribes. Lawyers entire strategy in his dealings with the whites was to talk and demonstrate friendship, to secure for his people the maximum con- sessions possible. This policy wàrked weil for the Ne Perce and worked also for the Yakiiuas at the treaty council at Waila Waila, and probably as weil as could be for the 1Cayse Umatiilas and Walla Wallas who were in dis favor because of the Whitman massacre and the Cayuse war which followed. If the other tribes could have had the foresigit of Lawyer there would have been no wars following

the treaties of 1855. One wonders sometimes if the influence of William Craig may not have manifested itself in the person of Lawyer. After the treaty council of 1855 and the siiing of the treaties, the Yakirnas lost no time in stirring up a feeling among their neighboring tribes in favor of war. This movement was led by Ka—mi-.a1cin The PaJ.ouses, Spokans and Coeru d’Alenes declared they were ready to help the Takimas. Other tribes were divided, even some of the Nez Perce were ready to war against the whites. During the fall of 1855 several parties of miners in the Yakiina Country were attached and several kiiled. Indian Agent A. J. Bolon was killed on September 21 or 22, 1855. Soldiers and vo1unters engaged the Yakimas in a war that fail which was not decisive. The war continued through 1856, but the final decision was not made that year, only an uneasy truce existed to be fanned into flame in 1858. During this war of 1855 and 1856 there was one battle of local importance which was fought in the Grande Ronde Vailey. Col. B. F.

Shaw of the Washington Volunteers had been sent from Puget Sound over the Nah—cheez pass to the scene of activities. He and his lvi. volunteers offered to cooperate with Colonel Wright and his army regulars whose camp they visited on the Nah.-cheez. His offer was refused by Colonel Wright, and Shaw and his outfit moved on to the

Columbia and enc-iuped near the mouth of the Umatilla. An Indian brought word to Colonel Shaw that there was a sizeable gathering of Indians in the Grande Rondo Valley. Colonel Shaw determined to attack this camp, not knowing whether these Indians were hostile or not. With his Indian as guide, he crossed the Blue Mountains, coming into the Grande Ronde Valley at the north end near the present location of Sunnerville on the evening of July 16, 1856. Shaw had

between 180 and 190 men provisioned for 10 days. On the morning of

July 17 Shaw marched south along the west edge of the valley toward the emigrant trail near the present loca+ion of La Grande. The volunteers sighted the Indian camp which was on the north side of the Grande Ronde River somewhat east of the present La Grande City Park, hen the Jndians saw the troops drawing up in battle formation

preparing for attack, the squaws and children with the old men were sent out into the valley with saddle and packhorses while the young men retired into the trees along the river to await the troops. Colonel Shaws attacking force is said to have consisted of 150 men all mounted, while about 40 men were left to guard the pack animals and supplies. The 150 men occupied the camp vacated by the Indians while an attempt was made by the Indians to discuss terms under a flag of truce. Shaw however, disregarded the flag of truce and ordered an attack. Shaw directed part of his force to move be tween the non-combatants and the main body of the Indians causing the Indians to also divide their forces for they feared the whites were iu planning to attack the squaws and children. A hard fight resulted, lasting from about eight o in the morning until three in the afternoon. The battle was mostly fought between small groups of the enemy. The Indians finally made a stand at a ford of the river about midway between La Grande and. Island City with the Indians on the south bank. The superior fire power of the volunteers enabled them to cross and route the Thdins who then scattered in all directions. The

Indians had by their resistance gained tine for the women and children to gain 0safety The persuit of the volunteers was carried out for a considerable cistance, some groups going as far as 10 or mor mfles Five volunteers were killed and several wounded, the Indians suffered a loss of thirty killed and probably ten mortally wounded. Most of the Indira lo3ses were warriors, as the vo]jnteers admitted of only a few wcrien or children killed. Shaws men captured over 200 horses, 100 lbs. of powder and great stocks of caitas roots venison, salmon and berries. They piled and burned an estimated 100 teepees. The sadest feature of this battle is that no one has ever shown that these Indians were allied with the hostiles against whom the regular troops were campaigning in the Yakima Country. It seems now far more likely that this camp of Cayuse and Umatilas were encamped here in the Crande Ronde Valley to get as far away from the theater of war as possible for the protection of their women and children. Shaw estimated the force of warriors at three hundred, which was probably high as most officers tended to exaggerate the numbers of the enemy to make the engagement reflect more credit to their men and to themselves. .A village of 100 or more teepees would ordinarily accommodate no more than a total population of about C

of

treaty

of

two disaster

a

the scale

ing It

inability

quently run, type were

and the this band

engaged here. probably present,

500

great

)ez

opposing

was

thirds whites.

the

poorly from

people

hide was

of present

is

In

The

toward

This

Another

Colonel

Perce

they

in

Comparing

victory

hostile

demonstrated

fighting

that

against

the

to

taking

the

that

as

Nez

the

to

and

of

in

disciplined

when

their signed

the

seems served

actual

all urderstarid The

there

in

center

Perce the

La

more seek Siaw

factor

whites.

in tribes

ont

this

s,alps. the

In

.1

battle

out

dDne

this

neighbors

Nsz

from

in

the

of

fighting

are

is than

peaceable

on

fighting,

chiefs

is whites.

of

war.

their

tending

camp,

1855.

Perce

1856

that

to

band

both

press

and

only volunteers

no an

the

of

the

100

At

be

The

weil

assemblage

were

Therefor, leading the

that

which

day

with superiority

official

sides.

and

favored

one

Indians one

in

credited fighting

of

volunteers

to

status

in

Grands

small

in known

former placel

times

Oregon

the more

indicate known

the

would

the

from

them

When

ail

Nez

and

with

reports

Yakima

this

with

exap1e

men to

groups, fighting

WiilIam

Ronde

in

Grande

examples,

allies

and

over kiiling hardly

out

Perca

in to

ere

organize

Wifliam

the

the

could the

battle

doing

Washington

an

treat

War,

war.

very

the

to

uncomfortable

of the Ronde1.

peaceful

women good

in

Craig ail

came warriros

have

women

have

have

regulars.

the

his

it

Craig which

small order

nearly

them volunteers

the

out

fighters

nearest

would

been

and

white

states, best

been

been

tribes and In

war

nearly

as

nature

detachments

to joined was

or

children

tipped

the

the

human

to

not children actively

the

keep

against peoples

chiefs

hailed

positioi

to

in

about

hit

fre-. keep

for case

brought

of seem

case

the

the

join

the

beings. the

ware

and this

.LV7

who

if

as Washington volunteers as a Lieutenant Colonel, one troop of cavalry

serving under Governor Stevens was composed entirely of Nez Perce

volunteers, among whom was Old Chief Joseph and a contingent of his warriors. The Nez Perce also served as scouts for the various white troops. It is recorded that there were at least 70 of these Nez Perce scouts. These Nez Perce furnIshed their own horses and subsisted them.. selves for whth they were never reimbursed. War flared fiercely again in 1858. During the campaigns of that year the Nz Farce chiefs were able to prevent all but scattered individuals froii ±n1ng the hostile arid the Nez Farce saved Colonel Steptoe’s cormtand irm cozplete annihilation. Steptoe’ a official report states 11witDt the assistance of Tixnothyts Nez Perce it would have be.n utterly iiipossible for us to cross (The Snake River) either going or returning ‘ Chief Lawyer met the retreating Steptoe with 200 wail arned warriors and tried to get the troops to rally and return with hin to battle the confederated tribes who had delt

Steptoe a d1sasr DuS defeat near Steptoe Butte in the Palouse hills of Eastern Wa.hington. However, Steptoe’ s troops were in no condition to resume hostilities, having abandoned much of their arms and equipment and being hurdoned with many wounded. Later that surier Colonel Wright brought the war to a successful conclusion, Old Joseph tr±e1 to get some of the buildings and other civilizing provfieicns provided for the Treaty of 1855 to be placed in the Waiowa Area, The Indian Agents, however, preferred to keep all the schools, sawmills, etc., at one place, namely Lapwai. They worked constantly to get as many of the Nez Perce as possible to live

could

the

paying

night

Idaho,

Timothy’s

viilago

having

were

ory

that

closed the

the

ing

back

prospectors

were

gold,

land

all

The

nearby.

civilized

earn

whites

and

reservation

prospectors

began,

hatched

worked

whites;

this

have

Jane

to

all

anxious

per

their

where Lfter

quantities.

been

A.

to

The

on

that

the

parties

eighteen

J.

family.

area

been prospecting

by

In

defied

the

occupation

troops

turned

Indians

to

living

it

who

the

Ciearw3ter

Cain

to

agents,

it

this

going

to

SnakeA

must

confine

became

called

mns’t

secure

according

that

propactors

plurd

explore

the

at was

they

wo:1d

yoar

back

by

off

knew

be

th

ba

misionaries,

h

conventions

Indian

with

known

a

stock

Here

entrance

the

the

were

there

on

River

old

on

extremely

traitor

would

be

an

reservations

this

the

to

a

every

which

most

Indians

armed

sent

daughter

one

raising,

definately

long

that

discovered

mountains

Agent

developed

the

near

arid

cal].

of

into desirable

to

to

known

the

the

trip

terms

of

invasion, policed

rich

the

the

at

to

politicians,

her

in

assist

both

Jane

the

which

Nez

Nez

boundaries.

Lajiai

a

with

troops

present

party

trail

in

in

against

a

own

of

gold

20

reservation.

Perce

Perce

her

feeling

and

the

the

gold.

of

the

them.

acre

was

people,

a

thinking

the

made

in

camped

all

to

group

own

main

reservation

she

treaty.

location

were

Reservation of

allowing

1860.

piece

government

keep

first

prospecting

So,

among

people

A.

guided

an

course

This

trails

and

of

near

thoroughly

J,

that

impression

many

the

of

men.

evening

Many

One

the

her

Cain

angered

of

the

and

them

Timothy’s

cultivated

the

whites

once

turning

to

schemes

Oro

party

officials,

was

prospectors

conduct

prospectors

Indians

She

convinced

those

search

territ.. one

one

fight

Firio,

in

familiar.

the

on

105

off

of

for to F

V

both

ffieia1s

to

that,

their

would

would

of

defiance

papers

settle

to

and.

taken

the

town

servation.

Government were

miners.

their

writers.

did

cized

try

blankets

prevent

the

burned,

whites,

merit

the

In

readers

be on

be

interested

When

to

and

The

lands,

became

The

in

by

Nez

the

most Indian

distributed

of

of

arrive

the Their

her

occupied

only

foil

Nez

such

the

censor,

was

infected

all

the

Perce

lands

spring Villages

and

effct.ive.

reservation,

people,

indignant.

owing

The

Perce

Nez

property.

good

powerless

treaty

great

Indian

illegal

at

only

denori3trate

and

fenced

miners

but

Perce by

some

of

Indian

years

with

to

took

and

in

fear

and

the

whites,

1863

terms,

Service.

so

the

actions,

sort

the

dianded

and

towns

to

These

no

seemed

smallpox.

has

A

far

citizens;

Nez

brought

was

without

a

is

Indians

Lewiston

prevent

mountain

action

of

cultivated

council

that

been

as

or

a

Perce

that

A

sprung

editorials

solution

dead

to

Boise

the

The known

the

that

many

such

regard

considered

be

White

in

against

in

livestock

them

He

paper

United

editors

was

Indians

Indian.”

areas.

up,

his harmless

editor

particular

the she

of

an

guaranteed

by

of

cailed

from

farmers

to

Lewiston

the

neighborhood

reflect

influx

was

advised

treaty

Nez

the

States

the

the

of

improvements

asked

a

was

whites

overrunning

never

Perce

at

party

heroine

some

problems

to

Indian

would

of

terms

the

appropriated

the

the

that

was

the

meet

became

for

miners

seriously

of

were

reafly

of

badgered

tine,

sentiment

whites

in

where

come

a by

such

title

the

be

at

successful

facing

shipment

the

torn

forceably

a

the

some

inforced

Lapwai

that

Idaho

large

believed

as

and

blankets

they

and

to

midst

re

criti..

dawn by

they

white

106

the

of

seize in names for

fifty—one duced had

enough

the

only recognized

the

leaving

Nez solemn Lawyer opposition. and

Indians necessary terms council loners in that

of of

the

the the

all

now

reservation

commissioners

Perce

Old

a

tiflie

were

twenty At

They

Trouble

of

to

meeting

small

leading

arranged

Nez

size Civil

the

withdrawn

each

were where

Joseph,

the

the

names.

have

did

and desired

not

quickly this

Perce

Nez

of

five treaty

reservation

band When

War divided

treaty

the was

they

the

their

on

of

the

the

Perce?

being

breaking

Eagle

for

treaty,

and

Were

the

or from

did

the independent. only

it

anticipated

solution to

signed

were

reservation. group

of

six

some

more

names

became

into do. no

Treaty

relinquished.

not

chiefs

from

these

1855

the

sensible

Was

paraded

companies troops

remained up

wiling

which

sort

Nez

report a

treaty

However,

on Nez

the

decided

the

there

treaty

of

clear

chiefs

of

they

that

Perces

at

of

Perce

the

Light

it

could

treaty 1855,

The

thing

and

it.

to

the and

face

were

for

disolved that

of

seems

treaty. with

Nez

on

since

and

United

drilled

sign

Nation, of

and

volunteers anti-treaty be

council

bringing

the

that

was

saving

of

58

Ferce

neither

Lawyers

sub—chiefs

the

that

spared

for Big

they

1863

chiefs Nez

to

the they States

Over

Lawyer

during

so

and

the Thunder

be

and action the

Perce,

could

a

the

Nez

side

to

band

the

could

to

a

who deliberate

half

it

the

smail functions,

Indian

Government

drastic

enforce

total

qualified

faction

Perce

be

the

conunissioners would

is

wa

not

were

to

three

leading treaty

of

do.

present

believed

reservation,

meeting.

sign,

deemed

Service inforce

these

signers

Nation,

important

yield,

reduction

the

by

fourths At

fraud,

with

coinmiss—

to

never

the

whose

which

a

at terms

chiefs

to

sign

that

the

at

to

the

The the

in

be

of L Li r [ [ [ [ [ r

L [

[ r

f were Book, massacre by the of with in Christianity. efforts and fighting renounced of people transactions, sured be his Service. have tted since wiping the 1848 teaching free guilty retired band innocent. ail plagued Now Joseph After New Old He Most that New could who to agents under men. along was never he out the Testament Joseph Testament. ones. retain Nez fateful were to his nearly by emphasized and never the signing the white for an It his side waivered to Perce a people determined Timothy probably relationship scheming American was Joseph Indians this make it beloved thirty expect day. the mans that was now only Joseph He land to their his white fron had had religion the at hold with convinced years learn realized justice for dishono1able flag Wailowa. decision to as this met who been Reverend own this soldiers, themselves. to of little avenge long and the as the had time deals the the the and from decision a the the carrying as ways by troops braved Here staunch whites opinion regard the first the that Spalding he the full or commissiont tearing troops he of Massacre he white could treaties made whites, he, That as at the Nez the implications and his for devoted friend that long that the had convinced up angry Perce and white mns the the the treasured- the Lawyer the scene of with tore given as the to final of other These Nez punishment his ways. white the converts man, he cherished live the Nez up the Perce of time him that believed of lived. Whitmans break bands questions copy whites 1 of his Perce the troops at the Indian and and his ever to peace trea— of would that 109

JOSEPH CHIEF OF THE NEZ PERCE

It was in the year 1840, according to the white 1man s reckoning, [ that a son was born in the lodge of Tu—eka—kas who is now known as Old Chief Joseph; a son who was destined to become a great chief [ in his own right. For among the Nez Perce a man did not become a

chief simply because his father was one before him. He rose to a place of leaderthip only after he had earned the confidence of the tribe by his prowess and his wisdom in the council. r This boy would later become known as Young Joseph. He grew up like any other Nez Perce 9boy which is to say that he practically [ lived on the back of a horse. He could ride at brea1eck speed along the rocky slopes, controlling his horse without saddle or bridle. The Indians kept their promises faithfully, even though settlers and cattlemen trespassed upon their reservations, and for Li more than five years the Government failed to pay the promised money p to those chiefs who had agreed to accept, But the final and complete breaking of the treaty came in 1861, when gold was discovered on the [ Indians’ lands at Orofino, in Idaho. In a few months ten thousand miners were stampeded into the area. [ The old chief was growing blind and feeble, and becoming ever more troubled as white settlers began crowding into his valley. It

L had been the boast of the Nez Perce that they had never killed a white man. From the time of Lewis and Clark, whom they 1helped they L had befriended the white man and had remained loyal when other tribes r were on the war path. Tu-eka—kas ignored the treaty of 1863 but tried to avoid trouble with the settlers. Very skillfully he main tamed peace and remained in his valley to the end of his days. those tained General which hunted only outclassed bitter even or at fully young in hard of father This have to think is son, be the check. great sign going In that if heart—breaking Finally, would task. Joseph, their country A driven When his and braves and opposition of he delay many Howard and his few a the influence your very move said, leadership rounded by treaty Tu-eka-.kas The then mother hot..headed years eyes a The out and now time holds the in angry refused. sharp country. soon his governrnent “my whites be on by notified the a more “ great from selling up limit people and in your stalwart this body the to days wi-angel and spring and over lay spring warriors and his see were was power soldiers. resentful, be father’ land. You is the kept your dying Joseph urged to a the the own accepted extended. returning of around young wide stealing must the Indians flood, of his white men, home. Great 18??, My s did in Joseph the that reservation. territory, body. stop people man, son, Very his were the not, he would as United man Spirit General on his he to His your agreed lodge to council a had never sadly, their becoming will Never that my must at lands leader. give be stock already States ears mother Chief. peace. and Howard he dangerous be forget they to move tireless sell and up fire and sent would the al]. whenever move. difficult his He Army. were within against earth, his risen the When became AU Joseph Snake my around for faced lands have ponies horses, to bones dying hopelessly He through I Joseph. to you He and thirty flyer, cross. 1aew, am much impatient main to a you. to peace a asked very words. of are my gone, hold searched place be

and no your spirit days “ny They asked his

(

one

the

fight.

my

“I

fortifications.

tific

no

was

and

the

the

committed

birds

a

were

thoroughly

and

became

two

live

would

Wallowa

With

the

of

hope

young

good

people.w scalps,

ear

skill

one

warpath

commanding

the

the

According

other

In

skill, hung

country

After

young

forever

Thus

heavy

of

that

I prove

food

of

a

men

spite

Imnaha,

squaws

wanted

Valley,

of

very

the

a

let

on.

the

Nez

began

dried

with

no

crossing

mri

series

to

hearts

to

using

the

far

from

poles

Great

in

of

most

captive

busy

to

general

more Perce

kill

carry

fell

raided

to

bringing

Joseph

Indians

more

the

more

the

and

Josephs

the

Genera].

advance

the

leave of

they

to

place.

extraordinary

Spirit

groans

and

to

the

Chiefs,

history

eipc

the

meat

on

plundering

brutal

eventful

women

timbered

dry

of

the

himself

work

destroy

the

struck

Snake

a

long

in

he

William

the

migration

pleas

would

and,

in

Chief

of

homes

clean

The

what

marcho

go

White

said,

cutting

murders.

of

the

United

wounded

procession

rear

River,

than

their

in

slopes

free,

men

the

and

the

keep

and.

above,

trail.”

of

arimals

smoke

Indian

T.

later

won

Bird

guards,

brought

American

any

of

white

several

council

It

the

States

Sherman,

killing.

camp

a

and

Joseph’

men

of

universal

Tu—hul—hut—sut

the

was

long

of

and

man

and

years

wars

meat

moved

they

the

fought

and

And

for

settlers

the

Ne

called

skirmish

Tu—hul—hut-sut.

Army,

in

that

could

isolated

for

time,

s

frontier.

mountains

on

who

into

women

the

on

could,

said,

camp-fires.

freshly

Band

Perce

off

peace

with

praise;

record.

all

another

the

at

foresee

last

and

“jerked”

long

toward

after

will

joined

lines,

“I

that people

-

settlers

but

almost

Nez

also

was

some

killed

a

time

to

did

strips,

they

journey

ever

leaving

occasion;

I

The

time

Perce

and

the

the

therefore

those

went

meat.

began

of

not When

and

will

in

scien.

The

took

courage

cattle

would

White

arid

Snake.

breaks

go

was

the

which

allow

field

war

on

‘U

camp

of

that

be

many.

to to

C

which

command

to

troops

their

border.

the

Union

at

and

were

fought

last

to

hostile

plains

Idaho

wa

failed

back

men

children.

fighting

find

the

either

Bear

non-combatants.

General

Joseph

were

oier

The

it

Every

continually

camp

armies

or

There

and

to

close

the

of

savagely

The

of

by

was

Here

mar.,kfeet

Paw

United hung

Moratana

1000

accompanied

retreat

the

reached

for assist

the

only

mile

Indian

Crows

and

Many

decided were

Howard, Mountains

-

of

they

to

troops,

4 Yellowstone.

people.

a

his

a

the

States

of

days

professional

the

infants

making

never

appering

them

failed

xnall

through

village

the

were

and

then

retreat

people

Civil

to

with

saddlehorn

until

by

but

Bear

to

or

of

troops

make

more

cut

margin.

south

They

little

their

rode

their

a

allow

Montana

contact

War

Idaho,

held

stun

came

was

in

Paws

General

small

off

than

another

Th

tried

to

was

were

soldier

in

the

friends

families,

or

a

them

by

s

to

fraught

of

under

four

Yellowstone

Their

Wyoming

cradle

250

conference

bodyguard,

runabout

the

only

the

no

path

Colonel

the

to

t.heir

led

Howard

demand

to

wirriot’s

distinction

days

friendly

reach

and

sixth

siege.

and

30 route

end

by

with

of

settle

boards

mothers

and

old

miles

graduate

General

the

refused

way

after

Miles

caught

of

for

sanctuary

ranking

with

danger.

pushed

Park

led

men

Nontana.

their

with

redmen,

He

was

in

Crows

strapped

Joseph’s

from

the

who

over

saddles. and

between

did

Colonel

up their

and

0.

to

taken

of

Joseph

ahead

bloody

general

battle with

whom

laid

the

womend

0.

Fresh

not

help.

north

West Lob

in

the

These

territory.

to

Howard,

surrender.

to

Canadian Canada

Miles combatants

assume

they

them.

of

seige

on

troops

Pass

trail

their

In

Point.

troops

avoid

started,

onto

4ves

of

his

his

fighting

all

expected

the

in

from

to

and

who

the

mothers

in

historic

il2

the

t.here and 113 The messengers selected were two Nez Perce scouts who had been with

Howard since the start of the campaign — Old George and Captain John. Both of them knew Joseph; they met with the chief arid his council, where Miles’ demand was discussed at great length. Finally the

deOision was made — Joseph wàuld surrender on condition that his people be returned to the Nez Perce reservation in Idaho. Otherwise he would fight to the deaths Colonel Miles accepted this condition. Here at last was the end of the trail, within thirty miles of sanctuary. After three months of grief, anxiety and hardship; after 1500 miles of wilderness trail; after five pitched battles and many lesser engagements with more than 2000 regular troops of the United States Army; after repeatedly confusing and outwitting hIs exper ienced opponents; Joseph the amateur general, the leader of great heart, the champion of liberty for his people, must now lay down his arms.

To Captain John, who had witnessed the soul-searching of the great chief in his last council, Joseph gave this message: “Tell

General Howard,” he said, “that I know his heart. ‘4hat he told me before I have in my heart. I am tired of fighting. Our chiefs are killed. Looking Glass is dead. Tu—hul-hutsut is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men who say yes or no.” (Meaning that only the young men remain there to vote in the council.) “He who lead the young men is dead. It is cold and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead.” Then raising his arm toward the sky, he continued; “Hear me, my chief; I am tired; my heart is. sick and sad. From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever.” 114. In 1879, while on a trip to Washington, D.C., to see ‘the Great White Father,” Chief Joseph gave a message to the American people. In it he told his own story. It is in the closing words of this address that the magnificence of his oratory is revealed: “Let me be a free man.free to travel, free to stop, free to cork,

free to trade, where I chcose; free to choose my own teachers, free

to follow the religion of my fathers, free to think and talk and act

for myself — and I will obey every law, or submit to the penalty.” 5Whenever the white men treat the Indian as they treat each other, then we“ have no more We shall wars. shall be all alike - Sons of one father and mother, with one sky above us and one country around us,

and one governnent for all. Then the Great Spirit Chief who rules above, will smile upon this land, and send rain to wash out the bloody spots made by brothers hands upon the face of the earth.” “For this time the Indian race is waiting and praying. I hope that no more groans of wounded men and women will ever go to the ear of the Great Spirit above, and that all people may be one people.” The following editorial appeared in the Wallowa County Chieftain

on September 1, 1949; “On our return from Canada recently, we stopped

at Nespelem, Washington, and enquired at a filling station for direc tions to the grave of Young Chief Joseph famed and honored leader of the Nez Perce Indians here. We followed his directions to the edge of town, a snail village, about the size of Lostine, and saw nothing.

Finally we noticed two or three stones in a patch of weeds, enclosed in an old wire fence. Going closer, we could see that it was a cemetery. Finding the gate in the rocks and weeds, we went inside. The enclosure contained an acre or two, all of which was covered with rocks and overgrown with weeds and showed no upkeep, whatever; It

CE

answered

“savages”,

Joseph

tried

greatest

by

owa

Joseph

bearing

that

erected

iuposirig”

was

of

so

baron

any

stone

he

“Our entirely

he

“And

to

“The

ail

loved,

had

kind.’

was

in

the

that

explain

Indians.”

and

yomg

monuments.

there

wanted

over grave

died

1905

shaft,

the

inscription

burnt

it

an

lie

the

son

by

in

was

chief

of

arid

Indian

in

to

the

a

hills,

1904

the

the

country

said,

this

because

steal

stone

he

The

bones

of

Washington

replied.

great

cemetery

at

“Chief

weed—grown

the

rest

11 Why

three

the

perhaps

about

for.”

of

white

Nez

Chief

Indians

of

is

a

Joseph”

hundred

and

man

sixty

Perce

the

Chief

“But

Historical

men,

We

a

Joseph

and

foot

there

who

didn?t

graves,

land.”

why

years

with

tribe,

who

Joseph

miles

desolate

was

square

was

were

did

cailed

the

say,

one

of

Society

with

from

that

marked

they

buried

only

age.”

and

further

of

cemetery,

but

the

no

the

the

chase

the

five

half

and

by

we

names

here?”

Indians

beautiful

monument

nation?s

words

the

could

that

feet

a

Chief

surrounded

or

dozen

most

We

Chief high

stating

have markings

us

was

WaU or 1.1.6

FIRST SETTLERSIN WALLaiIACCXJNTY

C Who was the first white man to take up residence in Wallowa County? Insofar as records go it appears that Captain Bonneville was the first white man to visit Wallowa County, but we may be sure that the Hudson’s Bay Company trappers trapped for beaver in the valley before and after Bonneville made his trip down the Imnha during the winter and returned by the same route that spring of 1834. Judge E, V. Kuykendall in his, “Historic Glimpses of Asotin County”, tells of a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post on Lost Prairie. “There is convincing evidence that Hudson’s Bay trappers caught fur bearing animals in the streams along the Snake and Grande Ronde Rivers prior to the earliest settlements in Asotin County (or Wallowa County). There was a Hudsonts Bay trading post on Lost Prairie in Wallowa County, Oregon across the line from Asotin County in the early days, and for many yesrs the stone chimney of the old building remained standing after the house had been destroyed either by fire or decay. Old settlers relate that from 1873 to 1875 there lived in the vicinity of Hansen Ferry, several old Indians who had a distinct recollection of the old stores and had made visits there with their parents and had seen the exchange of furs for supplies, consisting chiefly of gaudy blankets, beads and trinkets. The Indians also relate that this trading post had a large herd of horses, arid that one winter the snow reached such a depth and remained on the ground so long that the horses were compeiled to subsist upon bark peeled from trees, and as a result many of them died.’ “No evidence has been uncovered which would indicate the date of the establishment of, or the abandonment of this trading post. In 1846 a treaty was concluded fixing the boundary between the British

C

recently

County

retire

the

places

agriculture

tained

Missionary

vegetables

made

along

gardens

favored

about

Indian

keeper

of

time

post

light

it’s

the

and

Indians

goods

The

‘ t These

use

“As

United

confirmation

Quoting

was

was.-abandoned

“ T ihat

Chieftain posts

to

the

half

for

these

of

gardens

of

been

following

in

spots

there

of

the

from

granted

these

riier,

the

this

by

Spalding

these

as

bars a

arid

a

irrigation and

States

gardens

brought

reservation

mile

ICuykendall

thrilling

the

usual

at

Indians.

American

appears

located

irrigation

isolated

dated

trappers

facts

along

places

Troy,

Nez

for

is

of

It

below

possessions

were

in

it

to

this

quoted

aPpears

Farce

closing

it

October

the

probably

to

in

Shoemaker

on

the

and

possessions.”

is

light,

before

Later

the

post

further:

is

and

set

compelled

be

treaty,

growing

the

Grande

from

safe

early

fascinating

Indians

probable

from

mouth

no

retired

that

aside

would

business

3,

white

north

it

white

at

Reverend

to

not

record

1940.

an

Creek

Ronde

days

“some

appears

the

corn

49

Nez

of

assume

for

to

bet”

later

prior

article

men

side

that

to

men

degrees

Rattlesnake

Hudson’

relinquish

Perce

learned

of

or

and

them.”

and

mention

River

document,

British

“From

filed

Spalding.”

came

of

that

than

trading

to

this

that

tradition

other

other

appearing

Indians

the

the

north

a

were

old to

on

their

1850,

the

Lost

A.

Bay

should

possessions.

Grande

coming

vegetables.”

the

places

their

these

Creek

a

posts

records

C.

favorite

Indians

latitude.

Company

diary

Prairie

of

maintained

lessons

as

Smith

country,

in

be

the

Ronde

rights

and

tracts

a

and

of

on

the

made

of

reasonable

which

who

the withdrew

was

growing

low

wintering

on

the

trading

the

in

Wailowa

River

In

After

and

and

other

and of

main

the

benches

removal

have

117

the

the of

C

Forest

of

of

the

lot.”

today,

name

gave

can L.

and

the

permanent

sold

He

canyon

he

the

spring.

the

neighborhood

dates

gold

first

hearing

the

C.

state

built

again

still

Robert

present

“The

“Mr.

also

the

far

Indian

“Mr.

his

was

“He

rush

Johnson.

list

but

man

from

to

west

name

location

statements

outside

Smith hunted

the

has

After

be

spent

Smith

established.

held

residence.

shut

possibly

Hays

in

to

of

trails

1858.

Lester

seen.

stone

in

to

stuck,

of

1852,

take

places

to

was

in

the

going

left

who

The

up

1862

Deer

the

the

establish

to

some

to

He

up

Robinscn

one

fences

the the

winter

One

next

and

remained

concerning

his

present

Willamette

A.

in

There and

through

Creek,

Imnaha

was

residence

However,

range

of

canyon

stream

of

He

drifted

B.

early

mark

owner

located

born

which

the

near

these

told

Findley

are

residence.

grazing

a

town

Canyon.”

on

for

part

in

settlement.”

first

to

in

stream

was

in

Mr.

he

thousands

the

to

a

the

in

Valley,

are

the

gave

his

which

at

Irnnaha

of

1831

friend

kept

of

the Wailowa

Fred

who

Smith

present

rights

ranch

white

still

Cove,

Huntington

canyon

horses,

the

flowing

a

Snake

and

homesteaded

control

he

name

Falconer Mr.

and

Canyon

of

may

Civil

of

two

men

had

seen

and

went

County

after

bridged

his

in

Findley

Irnnaha

Deer

to

River

be

but

into

years

to

taken

in

the

of

was

across

War,

Fence

to

early

found

and

who

the

did

take

the

Creeks

and

the

the

district

stone

California

land

ranks

the

leaving

and

sold

a

he

rode

Wallowa

sold

not

fall

Creek.

adventures that

place

in

up

narrows

great

Irnnaha

returned

first

which

then

in

fences

to

the

establish

residence

as

north

to

of

this

in

Oregon

in

Joseph

until

the

fancy.

Robinson.”

sold

National

records

1868

of

He

and

in

includes

of

the

the

which

over

coming

118

top

the to

also

the

in

the

that

to

he

a in F! [] C L [ r Li

L

r

[

Mr.

weil the

of ably which opinion,

examined for various

lichens Fence

fences some LB. Smith remaining Imnaha

to toll

the in this supplied accepted

the

the

raising

Smith. Nez

a

canyon

prior

over

An

of

It road Reese

par+.

‘1After

“Mr.

very the

Creek. actually

fences

were

and

new

Perce

on them examination species

has

based these

much by

two

fence

life.”

up

Smith

of

to

long

the

extended built

town horses0”

and

built he becone

the

in

the the

for

the can hundred

of

lichens

on

rocks

claimcd his

sold

period

is

of

to

did Government of

Wallowa

hill

a

canyon.”

horse

now

these coming

by

lichens

constructed the

an

Enterprise toll

story

of

the

his

not

by

Mr.

years

only

accepted

still

and

of

rims,

to

control

observations,

one

ends bridge

location plant

of

Valley Smith.

was

this

time.

have

be

will

consequently

s

the

who

old.

known

particularly

of

presented

surmised

where

undisputed

any

have

built

story

over

white

in

has prove

with

some

Mr.

fence

However,

he

The

as of

the

been

studied

he

the moved

Melvin

them.

of that the

fruit, Smith

man

built fences

that

but

same

and

studied in

estimate

Wallowa

them

resting

proof

orchards

to

the

the

I out

the

it

nearly

a

Mountain.

maimer

by

Biark the

He

can

were,

the

with

study

He

may

one rock

of

testimony

the

probably

and

of

was growth

River find

northwest.

that

and

in

the

be

all

brush at which

early

that

in Indians

of

fences practiced

the

interested

that

the

the nowhere

canyon

the the

of the

Later

at

rate

they

used

same

piles

which

in

grazing

writer

the

mouth

Minam

writers

they

fence

growth

on

consider—

later

of

he

and

The

rocks served position

the that

law the

was to

the served

of moved

only and

have

with

is

of

purpo.

of

tie his years

Mr.

of

a 120 The next record of a white man visiting the Wallowa Valley is contained in the notes of William H. Odell, United States deputy

surveyor, who ran the base line for the government in the summer of 1866. In his notes which he filed with his survey, and which were made a part of the first county records when the county was estab lished later, he wfote: “This line passes through the beautiful Wallowa Valley, beginning at the east side of range 42. The valley is about six mes wide and 40 long; it’s course northwest and south east. Narrow streams of clear, cold water put down from the high snow mountains just to the south, timber is to the south and west and along the banks of the 1streams.’ “A large part of the valley is well adapted to agriculture, while the low, grassy hills to the north and east furnish extensive range for stock. The fiiest of trout and salmon abound in the streams and the surrounding moirntains give evidence of plenty of game. “Here I found many Indians camped pon the banks of the streams taking great quantities of fish while their large herds of horses quietly grazed upon luxuriant grasses. This valley should be surveyed as soon as practicable, for the wigwam of the savage will soon give way to the whites. Instead of the hunting and fishing grounds of the red man, the valley will teem with a thriving and busy tmpopulation. The survey ended on the hills south of Little Sheep Creek with this explanation in the field notes. “1 found it necessary to stop here for the reason that our provisions had given out. TI The base line survey was not extended eastward to Snake River until many years later. As a result of this survey and the undoubted publicity that followed it, there were no doubt a good many men who came and looked at the Wallowa country. It was known as a stockmans paradise, but 121 there were plenty such in Eastern Oregon at that tinie, not secluded as was the Wallowa. On account of its inaccessibility- the Wallowa country remained in the undisputed possession of the Nez Perce until about a decade later. As the seventies arri-rsd, the pasturage in and around the Grande Ronde Valley began to be more crowded and men began to look elsewhere for that dream of stockinen, “free and unlimited range.” Several

visited the Wailowa Valley. Among those who examined the Wallowa

country in search of range was James Tulley, who came in l87l When he returned to the Grande Ronde he gave such a glowing account of his discoveries that his brother, Erasmus, was determined to join him early the next spring in an effort to drive their three hundred head of cattle and horses over the mountains and into the Wallowa Valley. At that time there was of course no road whatever between the Grande

Ronde Valley and Wallowa Valley. About the caine time James A. Master son also came in with stock. These three pioneer settlers formed the entering wedge for white occupants of the Wallowa. These first pioneers crossed the Wailowa River about three quarters of a mile below the highway crossing of the Wallowa River at Minam and ascended Smith Mountain at the point of Crossing. James Tulley took a ranch about three miles south and a mile and a half east of the present town of Wallowa, at the confluence of the Lostine and Wallowa Rivers. Erasmus took land between James Tuiley-’s place and the town of Waflowa. Masterson took a claim nearby. These men say that to the best of their knowledge they were the first per rnanent settlers in the valley. They built a cabin on James Tulley place and began a mowing machine broughts cutting wild hay with t in from the Grande Ronde. They did not cultivate the soil, but there was no reed insofar as putting up hay was concerned, wild hay was thick and

west

the

valley

that

Old

the

Old

Tuiley

pressed

indeed

volved.

heavy

stored

Wallowa

Chief

Lostine

Chief

of

tine

These

The

between

on

had

not

the for

displ&asure

Indians

the

as

Joseph

Josep’n’s

men

either

surprising

winter

Lostine

reservation,

and

a

natural

were

June result

Wallowa

never

offered

by

only

favorite

and

16,

legally

at

accident

meadows

of

that

recognized.

thr

Waflowa

by

1873

Rivers.

unless

the

no

their

the

entitled

summer

resistance

and

Nez

taking

and

or

Indians

River.

they

ability

June

Perce

design

they

camping

However,

possession

settled

to

10,

were

Treaty

were

to

take

settled

to

1875

their

ground

do

limited

displeased,

south the

land

of

the

were

of

on

operations,

men

1863,

in

at

the’land.

necessary

of

or

as

trespassers

who

this

the

Enterprise

very

to

which

as

came

confluence

the

area

near

James

but

work

of

It

amount

to

at

122

upon

course

to

is

ex

or

the

in.. of 1• 123 CHINESEMASSACRE1887

Perhaps the blackest spot that appears on the generally honorable record of the citizens of Wallowa county was the cold-blooded massacre

of thirty-one Chinese miners on Snake River near the mouth of Deep

Creek on or about May 25, 1687. The following article appeared as a

feature in the Oregon Journal in the summer of 1938.

Case is Closed” By Bob Sincock

Long range rifles cracked out above the din of the roaring Snake,

poured a stream of lead into the mining camp below. Thirty Chinese workers fell dead. The last, wounded, ran to a small skiff d pushed r off down the river. Before he could escape the band. of horse thieves rolled boulders off the cliffs and killed him. They wrecked the [ camp, hacked the bodies of their victims with axes and threw them into the water.

Among the bloodiest slaughters of the Old West, the Wallowa County, Oregon massacre went on the books as closed without justice. L Three of the seven murderers, jailed for horse stealing, escaped from [ their chicken coop cell, and the gang scattered. The event attained international importance, closed only when the [ United States paid $276,610.75 indemnities to the Imperial Chinese government. Although the massacre took place a half century ago, on L or about May 25, 1887, the amount given the Oriental homeland was not made known until recently when Secretary of State Cordell Hull L released the essence of the affair.

F’ Secretary Hufl said the government paid more than a quarter million dollars “out of humane consideration and with no reference tc the question of liability for loss of Chinese life in the Northwest.” 124

The wholesale butchery “was the most cold-blooded, cowardly trechery I have ever heard tell of on this coast, and I am a ‘49er; every victim was shot) cut up and stripped and thrown in the river,

J. K. Vincent, United States commissioner who examined the case, wrote the Chinese Consul Genera]. et San Francisco. As chronicled by the early Walla Walla (Washington territory) Daily Journal, lust for gold was first believed the motive for the act. It was reported the culprits obtained $5000 to $10,000 in gold dust, but contemporaneous Northeastern Oregon residents pare the amount to a small sum because the diggings, still visible today, in dicate but little work had been done. Whatever the sum, it went into one pocket when one of the ringleaders fled to California. He was killed in a poker game there, and the gold was never recovered.

Cattlemen who knew the gang attach more significance to the fact that several members were known as horse thieves and frequently used the mining site, at the confluence of the Snake and Imnaha Rivers, as a ford to cross their stolen animals to hideouts in the Territory of Idaho. Pressure was used by the ringleaders to get a few of the group to cooperate, but the kifling of the Chinese and threats to “rub out” any of the gang who talked” failed to prevent disclosure of even lurid details of the crime. Eventually several of the bandits turned state’s witnesses. Frank Vaughn, under bond, first testified before the grand jury in Wallowa County, center of the investigation, and gave the whole matter away. An indictment was filed in circuit court in March, 1888, against the ramaining six Ben Evans, J. B. Canfield, Omer LeRue, Robert NcMillan, Carl Hughes and Hiran Mayward. The latter three

Lewiston

whites

There

arrived

to

missing

Downstream

and

bedding,

terrified

mining.

times

against

the

to

Indians,

the

wilderness

of

group

parties

River

ringleaders,

t.ere

Lewiston

the

the

the

Pacific

last

Bodies

were

They

and

harassed

A

for

of

massacre.

From

at

upper

countrymen,

Snake

fluvial

Nez

few

them

clothing

of

About

a

frontier

31

to

no

Indians

is a

left

a

where

cowboy

of

of

Perce Chinese

October,

miles

short

Coast,

few

began

find

white

became

that waters.

.bout

were

the

the

June

invaders

the

ore

miles

the

and

the

News.

passed

time

above

the

mining

or

tributary

operations

victims

men out

and

with

vicinity

120

rockers

miners

8

at

l886

wandering

crime

tents

the

settlement

Chinese

In

they

prisoners

mining of

times

even

miles

the

of

two

along

those

town.

upper

the

went

were

through

their

was

were

found ruined.

party

in

holes

immediately

Snake

intense.

south

in

state

were

in

the

reported. days white

frohtier

up

found

camp

Settlements

an

scattered

destroyed

but

hunting

the

on

of

chopped

to

theColuinbia

the

trail

murdered

untamed

of

and

Chinese

the

The

visited

vicinity, 31, the

prospector

search

at

Lewiston,

spring

Troublesome

were

villages

and

shore

Chinese

intervals

former

another

close

grounds.

in

The

and

and

region

by

were

paddled

were

for

the

never

the

of

a

burned,

river

no

by,”

but

whites

conclusion

trio,

were

boat

fled

Idaho

gold.

the

lower

group

becoming

the

bottom.

few

one

on

taken

for

frequently

Indians

reported

their

to

following

Americans’

the

used

and

the

from

there.

regarded

or

Territory,

tools

bne

some

of

This

the

for

Indians.

only

occasional

Oregon

Chinese

numerous

batteaus

to

by

the

and

also

upper

years,

particular

broken

the

the

be

their

Blankets,

both

visitors

year

scene.

was

as

feeling

some

side

Snake

125

then

the

were on

F [ Li

L L r r —

[1

[

[

r

[

F r When and visited stories” where several mountainous find residents and homicide, the Commissioner ated actual State Chinese west, Commissioner Their government in floating site. Vincent punished, the the- Chinese, out Reports in he High Eayard: The to consul Chinese number the days back gang All a about minister, traced what look there in it most incident water was ill—fated region funds had he or the returned follow of Vincent’s is Vincent had general which was the “As after at watched shocking doggedly some breast been and the feared in Snake been and L;iiton matter. known) the Chang and became the will elsewhere the slaughter of the similarly mining and asked at to- character eliminated done, and as report, other closely. the upper examples manner Yen pursued caset San Enterprise, affect lives the far of po3ted chopped In miners the site Hoon, but Francisco wicked real investigation as Snake in drifted the mutilated differs were and The Sam the of a Vincent the Panawawa, of and the $1000 vicinity vigorously provisions cowboy international or thrown this up company at the interest persons murdered United Wallowa who possibility decapitated. to soon first greatly Company, for murderers case, and shadowed neighboring had who away, 160 where began. hired bolstered apprehension States.” may, made stripped and County and was told protested to wherein miles from as white importance operating safety from their 20 United known of camps it if some will seat, a or Indian from impossible not communities. the of their common 10 men. bodies 30 to to curious in of be States of clothing, arrested (before fund the and outlaws Secretary have in the the seen when the attack hatred For case the massacre nearby mutil— with nearby Chinese murderers. to by the the North 126 of shot of of C - the h considered a to term killed his the ram—shackled to awaiting During positions One to below stream connection the George Maywar’d Vaughn threats Joseph, year become take uurder,- by prepare prisoners wife Today, held The hearing; in His that One where after in Feeling his to prison Craig claimed him outcome and and of him several companions’ the a California, of on the stand the Will first time with a blacksmith their to the the Hughes mountain family. and the the horses meal of in case there “They against the law to ever escaped- my was crime, guard, Enterprise, Chinese were a disarmed night hillsides ringleaders, leaders while have chicken regards jail’s and cattle said and had accurately on break be as village, jailed for them as then several another another been brought witnessed from the were, they gone noted, and the outhouse. a enterprise. the was coop, the and became prisoner others it pioneer eye for the to remained turned officer. in arid rest without equally Snake poured had downstream, reported foretold charge, and to witnesses a from stealing the comtry the which cabin intense. justice.” proceeded confessed, of another stack states There he River county which lead spectacle at his better spectacular. Two and He Inveigled that I by I and a horses. used. maintained rancher, life. to fled massacre the into of the nearby went returned they jail, One Eventually evidence. with while “it the facilities, all the bandit Wallowa in to the was as to easily is whole Sheriff immediately the but winter seven cabin, Wyoming, his recently the Kansas, a group-——” doubtful left to Joseph, about found close assassinations. two companions grand affair, McMiilan Signal the they fled. were time at had Humphreys of The a Northwest served leaving a incident. my told dared then half if the sent jury lodged revolver escaped. late only nearly One cabin and any and of seven 27 a took up mile had was a in of 4.4..-,

HOWTHE WALLOWANATIONALFORESTGREW

A step by step account of the legal proclamations creating the Wallowa National Forest and the story of an attempt to eliminate a large area of the Imnaha and Snake River country from the Forest and

how the Wallowa County citizens thwarted this attempted raid on the public lands of the Wailowa National Forest. About 1900 Federal land examiners began to look over the public domain lands in T,Iallowa County with a view toward classifying these lands for action under Section 24 of the Act of Congress approved

March 3, 1891, entitled, “An Act to repeal timber-culture laws, and for other purposes.” “That the President of the United States may, from time to time, set apart and reserve, in any State or Territory having public land bearing forest, in any part of the public lands wholly or in part covered with timber or undergrowth, whether of corn niercial value or not, as public reservations, and the President shall, by public proclamation, declare the establishment of such reservations and the limits thereof.” Certain lands in Wallowa County were withdrawn from public entry under the various alienation laws, by proclamations dated, November 1,

1902, May 27, 1903, August 3, 1903, August 25, 1903 and May 14, 1904.

Some of these lands were then released from the above proclamations in 1903 and on August 17, 1904. These were lands then considered either suitable for agriculture or not covered with timber or under growth.

On Nay 6, 1905 President T. Roosevelt proclaimed the establishment of the Wallowa Forest Reserve which contained 747,200 acres. This area included the mountain area south and west of the Wallowa Valley, south of a line approximately due east of Wallowa Lake to Snake River of Powder

Reserve very

Imnaha Snake proclaimed Imnaha Then, better that cluded. forested Nountains

Eden this

date Forest ment

Springs central area

and and

the

east

north

It On confusing

the During countries President Forest

included On o

River

on names.

River.

Forest

Forest

Reserve, examinations

became

and March

Wallowa

country, the

May

public

June boundaries

of

west

of

on

area included

Reserve

1905

12, Chenimnus the

the

Reserve

Reserve,

1, 10,

December

in

to Since

apparent

was

of T.

land

an County,

1905

Grands

and

1907,

as which

general

Pine

the

1907

Roosevelt

the

also

area

were

of the

lying

the

additional

extended

had

President

general that

Grande

Valley,

which

T.

13, some the

Forest Ronde is

immediately

men

in

west

containing

namer

been

in

the

Roosevelt

west

located

the

Wallowa 1906,

general

land

proclaimed some took

combined

Rànde

of Valley.

area

Wallowa

public

the

left

Reserve

lower

Indian

of

T.

land

the

was

December

cases charge

boundaries

west Tray,

oi’th Roosevelt

River. out. area County.

731,650

after proclaimed

tmnaha

Poitder

principally

and

released

was

names

the

containing

unsuitable

the

of

were

Oregon

of

of

steps

Additional

well

the

Chesnimnus

17,

Joseph

A River the establishment

acres the

River,

Imriaha

proclaimed

(approximately

further

made,

considerable

establishment

1906

from

were

known

the

Forest in

open

in

Creek.

and 220, situated

and the

Telocaset

and

establishment that

and it

taken

the withdrawals

grassland

and

south and

part

2O

that Reserves became Weneha

Wenaha

February

the

lower

previously

Wallowa applicable

On

of

acres.

to

acreage of

in

toward

much

165,000

establish

of

the

this

county,

change

River apparent the

the

were

Imnaha,

hills

the

and

were

Wenaha

5,

of Forest

Sled same This Blue

of.

1907.

in-.

acres., and

to.

the one

of 130 a larger area than Imnaha it was decided to change the tmnaha to the C Wailowa and in the meantime the Forest Reserves were renamed National Forests. This name being more in keeping with the purpose of the newly created public forests, which were to be used arid managed for the bene.. fit of the people and were not actually to be set up and withheld from public use as the name Forest Reserve implied. Therefore, on July 2, 1908 an Executive Order directed that the Imnaha National Forest should

be known as the Wallowa National Forest. After a period of a few years, it became quite evident that the area of the Wallowa National Forest west of the Minam River and south of the summits of the High Waflowa Mountains could not be properly administered from headquarters at the town of Wallowa, where the TSupervisor a Office of the Wallowa National Forest was located. There fore, on June 6, 1911, President Wm. !. Taft proclaimed this area

should be a separate National Forest to be known as the Minam National

Forest; and on June 10, 1911 issued a proclamation re-defining he boundaries of the Wallowa National Forest.

On September 27, 1917 President Woodrow Wilson issued a procla.. ination opening about 20 sections in the Chesnimnus Creek area to home stead entry as of November 22, 1917. President Calvin Coolidge issued a proclamation on December 9, 192 adding a considerable acreage of scattered, unappropriated public lands, either timbered or partially timbered, to the Wallowa National orest. The last Presidential Proclamation affecting the Wallowa National Forest was issued by President Calvin Coolidge on June 6, 1928 in whi he added to the Wallowa National Forest approdmately 15 sections

lying on the east side of the Grande Ronde River between Rondowa and Troy, Oregon. In this same proclamation he also opened to homestead within

land made, plete Forest, To

areas names

along local I trol. by

stockmen north apparently bound large

boundaries

of previously

1925.

entry,

attached

have

the

residents

the

along

Because

In It

sooner with public as roster of

Volume of acreage

and

Hon.. decided

Since

Wailowa

by

so

the

had

the of

and

Saddle

petitions

veterans

near

as and

the

began

withdrawn

since

1916.

Secretary

Wallowa

taken

or petition

of

of these

settlers of sentiment

#1,

to

of

adjacent

names

to

National

those

later,

rumors the

the

Creek

eliminate

the in is the

include

a

petitions

of

and

residents

1915 area

sri period

National

of

lower 1928

from

rough

of

signers. had

from

the

to in

of

account

resolutions

to

organizations

Forest.

Agriculture:

to

and

the

the

the the

in

proclamation

public

first

the a

the Imnaha

of

and

retain

Wallowa,

considerable

the

are

resulted

Forest

boundaries

of effect tine cover

about

Snake Wallowa

of

mountainous

These

World

Wallowa

the

of

No

entry

River

an

the and

expressed

Thtter historical

historical

changes

26

and

that

Lower

attempt

names Oregon,

submitting

in

War

land the

National years by

by

Country

Imnaha

of

National

numerous

possibly area

President

an only,

Imnaha

confidence submitting

the

sections

under

constitute

have

to

to Executive

themselves

October

of

importance

source

Wallowa

Rivers,

Forest. and detach

some

stabilize

petitions,

been

rough

and

Forest petitions

Forest

a

Coolidge. Snake

have

change

isolated

these

21, Snake that

material,

made

almost

or

Order

the National

and

as

administration,

This Service

through 1916

River

as

eliminate

the

the

in

not mountainous residents River

would petitions,

and

being

to

of

a movement

the

boundarie

tracts

local

being

the

com Count’-— the leather

May

1.

con

5j

the

be

filed legal

a

8,

C

upon

users,

will

the

soil.

cover-crops,

and

erience

be

over

National

also

towns

cooperation

Wallowa

rough

each

interests

that

organizations

little

and

Club

in

the

best

over

these

Most

not

favor

to

residents

i!ost

have

The

and

or

their

within

These

organizations

They

and

result

unrestrained

has

support

advantage,

explanation

National

grazing

those

Forest,

of

rough

lands,

every

of

procured

of

mountainous

of

have

taught

the interests

people

of

thus

the

the

any

the

should

dependent

of

are

the

and

section

nearly

signatures

means

explained

and

and

people

county.

opening

Forest,

change

county

the

them

so

and the

Commercial

also

mountainous

was

of

and

reports

the

are

are

closely

county

the

lands

as

that

hearty

the

that

of

now

necessary,

know

which

promiscuous

upon

boundaries

is

in

are

the

identical.

much

the

denuding

the

to

towns

dependent

the

residing

after

unregulated

along

are

before

that

way

all

the

the

in

endorsement

Club

would

situation

country,

stock

sections

best

to

touch

to

within

to

users,

attached

a

these

Snake

for

organizations

of

be

the

the

which

few

certain

eliminate

use

position

per

in

upon

The

the

with

changed

the

nc1uding

effect

lands

years

and

lands

Wallowa

and

along

River

grazing

at

of

acre

welfare

of these

land

the

petitions

reason

any

the

the

near

and

conditions

their

were

to

as

of

are

the

these

and

welfare

that

and

of

and

people

grass

lands

County,

rapid

means

judge

they

these

unregulated

of

those

of

that

now

land

its Imnaha

these

position.

included

all

all

the

rivers

the

represent

which

now

are

fully

erosion

grass

over

of

in

as

the

sections

to

above

who

seasons.

to

principal

hence

lands

commercial

River.

the

to

these

do.

tributary,

the

whom

commercial

within

inhabit

grazing,

grows

in

usec’

and

what

grazing

referred

people

In

Commercial

the

of

given

the

either

the

sections

were

other

to

the

132

ft

Exp

will

the

the

of to. would

is

the number these

should account range drift bidding hampered encroaching be stock. money

returned

Rase, of lands, system elimination

the petitions

in

individuals.

a

torn

the

and

danger

boundaries

A

timber

Aside

Since

result

reasons

that

fences,

in

a

topographical

of remain

Forest

of

near

states

of The

the

down

surveyor,

to in building

other

drift

were

or lack will

from

these

growth

upon trails

the

th

fencing

of these

should

and

we

under erosion,

which

Service,

in

So

these

presented remaining

potent

the

of

be

economic

general

fences

might

lands

their

lands

his

it

trails who

rough

and

and care needed

an

the

immediate

are of

might

or

letter lands

made

mention eliminate effort

and reasons

telephone

use public given

have have and

relief

control used and

public

and

handling

and where

readily

at

be

the

the dispensed

a from

supervision

been been xnountainou that

over to another

telephone

trip

said

be

grazing

land.

map

why

irregular the

domain, government they

of

keep

the

made

the

lines

built

administered he

signed

to

of

the of

will

timber

these

some

now National

saw

other.

with,

the The The their

season

five

to

values

sentiment

would

the lines. by

-authority.

show by

lands

are. them,

only

retain

and

rough

grazing

stock owners

value,

had the

or

some

drift

stock on

of

that

impracticable

of

gradually

Forest. one

six

users

account with

by In expended

is

and

the from

Should

the

the

constituted

of

among

the

of

through weeks person unanimous

fact fences the

this

mountainous

year,

livestock

the

land

Principal

land

other drifting

under

water—shed

Forest

these

of Frederick the

section

a

over

deteriorate

exception

who

would

on

there

and lack

the

consider3ble

classes

regulations

people

boundary

in

which

authority.

lands

these

favored

Service

would

and law

from

among

of

have

favor

of lands

are

value,

W. .L))

using

the

living for

of

there

of be

a

be

to

on

that

the

a

of two county is made up of the two main deep canyons of the Snake River and Imnaha river--the Imnaha River being a tributary of the Snake--and into these two main canyons run smaller ones from both sides, resulting in a very broken, steep, rough and mountainous country. The altitude with.. in a few miles varying from about 1600 feet to over 5000 above sea level. Most of the North slopes and bottoms of these canyons are covered with a timber growth, while the South slopes and ridges produce only a growth of grass. These conditions are well shown in the accompanying

p1tographs. Some of this timber growth will no doubt at some future date have a commercial value, but the principal present value is the protection of the water-shed and a conservation of the water supply, which at the same time prevents the erosion of the canyon sides into Snake River, finally reach the Columbia river, and there to imped navigation and augment the heavy expenditure already made by the government in keeping that river open to navigation. To so change the boundary of the ‘orest as to retain the timbered North slopes and bottom of canyons, and at the same time eliminate the South slopes and ridges, would result in such an irregular boundary as to be impracticable to administer the land within the Forest so as to accure the greatest benefit from its resources, and would be a source of constant trouble between the users of the Forest and the occupants of the open range.

In these few paragraphs we have attempted to summarize the several reasons why no change should be made in the present boundary of the Wailowa National Forest along the Snake and Imnaha rivers, and trust that due consideration will be given the expressions of the various poople nd organizations hereto attached. RespectfullyBy______Submitted. At their request. C

W.

Peter ‘d.

T.

F.

J. A. G.

Floyd

J. L.

Chas. A. petition:

Ed

Hugh J.

C. C.

H.

G.

K.

F.

ID.

F. E.

J.

Perland Ross

Wilson,

The

Morelock

Blanc McCully Gowing Reel

Boudan Parker

Rice

Egenspuger Richardson

U Cavjness

3eith

Leslie,

Wilkins

following

Secretary

President

people

of

the

Charles W,

A. T. J.

J.

S. A. W. Albert F. P. A.

F.

S.

Joseph

L.

P. 0. A.

A. W. M. C. H.

Knapper P.

E.

0.

Marks Wilson

Johnson Eggleson

Rumells

Gaulke :ays

Sanndess .ilson McCully

Nemby Schaupp

Mount,

Crader

Commercial

M.D.

Club

signed

135

a C- Vernon Julia Ivan Lowell Jimmie Prof. W. S. W. J. Ameliz W. Thomas W. J. Berij. H. Mike Jerry A. W. C. Bess R. S. The W. N. F. 0. A. Lynn A. H. W. W. M. F. T. Simmons A. following Robinson Thomason Winniford H. Winniford Winniford Scriber Spicer Warnock L. S. Mathny Hayes Warnock Stevens Vandeburgh Crader Spicer Stubblefield Tippett Johnson Lake1y Vandeburgh Faulconer 3. F. Titus Kiger Ashpaugh residents of Wallowa Mrs. Grace Parthena Mrs. Owen R. Arch Reba Ray Gertrude James Grace Frank E. Amy E. Mrs. Mattie G. H. Lela A. B. C. N. L. County H. James Faulconer R. E. IEarks Sie11 Trumbell W. Harrison Raymond Wisenor Wilson Hayes Wilson Mesinger Whittier Campbell Snell Wiflniford Rice B. Robinson 0. Warnock Wisenor Wilson were Winniford signers of a petition: 136 137

The following people signed another petition as residents of Wallowa

County on or near Snake River:

W. E. Rays

L. Sturnaugh

J. B. Marks

H. B. Maxwell

Edgar Ownbey

Alfred Hays

J. A. Shields I. L. Olinsted

J. A. Wilson

C. C. Boswell

A. F. Winniford

A. P. Wilson J. Ray Johnson

L. C. Johnson 138

The following residents of “lailowa County signed a third petition:

T. S. Tippett G. W. Salladay

H. D. Akins J. S. Kervile Leonard Jones Roy Toops

C. E. Young H. C. Nays

G. W. Tippett Alvin NcFetridge

N. C. Akins John McCarty Wendell Burleigh J. N. Scholl

Guy Russell Tom Atkins E. . Hinton Omar Stubblefield Sam Litch C. F. Graves

Glenn Russeil Tenry Haas f W. P. Warnock Ivan Morrison

Chas. C. Tippett I 139

PUTTING THE frIALLOWAANDCHESNIMNUS FOREST RESEaVESUNDERADMINISTRATION 19ô6

It will be recalled that Howard IC. O’rien was appointed as ranger in charge of the Wallowa and Chesnirnnus Forest Reserves effective

October 1, 1905. He was in effect the Supervisor of this vast area and on his shoulders was placed the responsibility of organizing the administration of the Reserves, training personnel to carry out the regulations and acquainting the forest users and the local public with

the objectives and policies of the Forest Service. To assist him in

this work he had a very small number of men, most of whom were consid erably above the average in native intelligence and in their abilities as stockmen and woodsmen. Most of them had a limited formal education,

but for the work that they had to do that was no particular handicap. The shortage of formal educational training was offset to a consider able extent by their enthusiasm for the work. More important perhaps

than anything else, was their sense of dedication to the cause of

protecting the resourses of the country. We believe that there has been no parallel in modern times to equal the feeling of the early day Forest

Service men (and there were few women in the Service then), that they were working for the most important cause to which they could dedicate their lives. That they were fulfilling a patriotic duty, that they were serving their Country in a Great Cause. The magnetic personality of President Theodore Roosevelt fired the imagination of countless men

and converted them to the cause of conservation. Many of these men decided to cast their 1t with the young and promising Forest Service. Gifford Pinchot as Chief Forester, took these young enthusiasts and welded them into a unit of dedicated, forward looking men, devoted to each other, devoted to the Forest Service and happy to serve the Great Reserves

for that west were places, the

were

occupied

was

employed.

spent had that but Wallowa nearest duty

Cove, Forest for tant Cause Guard.

the

dutch

his

out

his

fe

We

they

no guaranteed

very There

his

lay. The

O’i3rian Forest

all

Oregon

with

Guard

maps

have

sometimes

fenced

headquarters on

trips duty One

Forest settlement

they

cabin

Assistant trips

were

oven

few

of

were

the

little

Assistant

Guard

then

no

his

of and for

had

were

roads.

lo

and

concerned

that pastures Reserve

to

Reserve

records

a

no

counting

time

headquarters.

the one

one

available

place

not

the

on regard

little

campfire Ranger

Ranger

and

was

Wallowa

at

at the Assistant

very

Sheep

on office

Ranger

most

returned

he

to of

available,

Wallowa,

Wallowa, Uito

with

the

Chesnimnus stock for

better

Stations

in

had

roll

friendly, just

were

kettle.

camps

of

which

were

job unit

was charge

their

getting

three

the

and Ranger,

what

out

at

{e

than

very

Oregon

for Oregon

stationed

and

was

few

but they

that usually

ti-e.

once

settling own

your

of

Assistant

Forest

most

but

the

the

a sketchy.

cow

and

headquartered

depended

the pecuniary

one

better

year.

could

but to

for

blankets

the

three

map

of

camps

The

far

the

Chesnimnus Reserve at

secured

Forest

the

it

stockinen’s

these hospitality

that

prt

between.

Rangers Assistant

Halfway,

map

months Tha

is

vast

In mostly

were

Wallowa

rewards.

and

their

a

Guard

Chief men of

some

men

supplies in

territory

safe at

often

the

a

that

Forest

arid 1906.

did.

used

on

Wallowa,

troubles Oregon,

parts

helping

horses.

unit. The Forest

and

Twisted

code

bet

mountains,

tents.

one

he

stopping

any

Forest at

one

We

Reserve

to On

of

of was

whe:e

Forest

Guard the The

one

know

un

from assume Oregon

allowed the Assis 1140

the Hair

the There

Ther

Guarc

at

his 141 C drew with charcoal on a white tanned buckskin for Lewis and Clark in 1905, showing the Clearwater River, Snake River and Columbia River. even that map was vluab1e as it showed the falls at the miles, the portage at the Cascades, and the Columbia entering the Great Waters.

These early day Forest Officers needed a good map to show grazing allotment boundary lines, to show isolated ranches, trails, etc. So,

they set about making maps and correcting errors on the mpas then available. In a few years the maps were serviceable.

We have a few reports by Supervisor OBrien, some letters from and to his superiors. We know that Forest Superintendent D. . Sheller met O’Brien at La Grande and instructed him in his duties and that he gave 0 ‘Brien the Civil Service examination for Forest Super visor on October 23, 1905, which O’Brien passed with a grade of 80.2O. It is presumed that Sheller probably spent a couple of weeks in train ing W Brien and that they may have visited some parts of the reserve.

Sheller probably agreed to changing t’-ie headquarters from La Grande to Wallowa for the change was made that same fall, probably in November, for O’Brien was authorized to lease an office in Wailowa by a letter

dated December 18, 190,5 by Win. L. ‘lall, Acting Forester, Washington, D.C.

O’Brien reports that there were 251,830 head of sheep under permit on the Wallowa Reserve in 1906 and 18,702 cattle and horses. We have no figures for the Chesnimnus for that year. O’Brien also says that he had insufficient men to properly administer the grazing pro blems, that the .stockmen. were complaining of inadequate service and, T’at the recent stock meeting held at this place, the stockmen adopted a resolution asking the Department for a larger force on the reserves.” Insert on page 4 of manuscript. Putting the Wallowa and Ches nimrius Forest Reserves under administration.

[ [ [ [ r’ r L

r

L

[

[

L

[

[

C

lands

who

Indians.

this

boundary,

After

on

English.

I

coming

tended

for

to

got

dust

htinting

and

he

as

occurred

cabin

Cove,

tains Wallowa

Oregon

was

this

stop

lived

instructed

follows:

Cold

on

Clemons

camp

without

e

coming

I

very

“1 called

I

to Assistant

Oregon

is

my

O’Brien

range

explained

as

had

also

season.

saw

Springs

during

in

they

and

received

By

in

not

impassible,

horse

well

they

a

up

terprise

range

this

his

Joe

permit.”

wrote

they

camped.

Beith

understand

about

ride

wrote

me

the

states

acquainted,

eight

had

and

area

Albert

Guard,

to

Sure

to

to

time

with

all

a

of

them

trail,

Cabin

a

camp.

about

rode

numerous

not

letter

them

of

60

months

and

150

that

enough

moved

They

Philip

their

at

and

J.

that

let

the

mile

any

down

they

on

that

m.les

four

and

that

Fred

They

Assistant

late

stayed

and

Culley

the

back

the

Chesnininus

English

of

they

ponies,

letters

one

McFarland

ride

the

Beith

could

Assistant

or

time

who

McClain

the

said

to

/sf

Nez

in

head

morning

down

five

traJ

could

there

the

for

reach

August

I

year

J.

said

and

PerDe

not

at

they

Ranger

as

to

of

knew

Horse

Indian

a

hundred

Fred

and

Reserve.

wrote

an,

to

not

who was

A.

for

Cold

camp

Ranger

when

similar

the

in

“Here

did

Indians

from

talked

meet

C.

his

McClain

graze

Charles

was

their

September

about

Creek

but

Supervisor’s

and

Spring

of

interpreter,

the

not

Smith,

horses

comes

H.

daughter

Marshal

them.

a

period.

one

as

graze

His

and

summit

savvy

on

yearly

great

come

two

below

K.

more

mack

Creek.

incident

National the

an

O’Brien

understood

station

and

I

weeks,

I

in

their F.

-

saw

old

friend

the

Nora

Indians

of

motioned

Indians”.

custom

were

in

office

of

on

with

Giffin

the

a

lawyer

Account

Forest

fact

Halfway,

the

and

in

horses was

caine

that

Forest

great

heading

of

whom

rnoun

142

in

wdch

good

kept

at

from

Ly

at

pre

of

them

the

up.

the

I a

(_

solid.

away.

out

one

and

Ranger

ttees.

cattle

Valley.

Imnaha,

ley,

ed helped

compiler

or

experiences

entitled

other

fires,

fires,

cause

2

given:

(under

and

to

happening

campfires

helped

of

North

Alva

The

graze

his

Marshal

Forest

than

and

The unknown.

On

mapped.

select

Luring

He

10

and

Pine

j

Keeler

1

of

to

the

horse

acre)

them

time

Keeler

worked

delivered

by

Minam,

ground

campfire

Ranger

1

while

this

during

compensation.

Creek,

left

that

Guard,

lightning

Wallowa

class

several

1906

F.

do

on

counted

was

Among

and

work,

packed

with

Giff

was

Minam

by

he

the

summer. their

and

the

on

C

Eagle

left

staked

1

Alva

at

was

campers,

in

Reserve

fire

those

clear

Administrative

class

the

Imnaha

Assistant

Guard

has

time

least

and

many

and

study

Jardine

and

by

doing

L.

Valley,

Chesnimnus

with

(over

related

One

10

but

Bear

selected Indians,

B

that

Assistant

Keeler

labor,

thousand

in

a

there

2

fire

work

by

some

of

full

rather

campfires

a

1907.

and

Ranger

10

Creek.

he

unknown

Lower

slip

the

many

(*

in

has

plus

were

acres).

work

worked

Sampson

pack

were

1

sites Reserve

sheep,

to

above

that

Ranger

knot

branding

steep.

But,

not

Charles

Powder

interesting

help

18

!-e

out

10

load

cause.

Lick

left

which

area on

written

class

contacted

around

acres).

men

in

into

Four

several

of

there

Stewart

from

the

of

When

and

by

Creek,

conversations

Black,

fire

sight

staked

in

were

the

Use

No

were

A

sheep

old

permit

in

his

were

1907. up

fires,

he

occurrences.

expense

thousand

left

Causes

Standley

and

Books

the

Coverdale,

stockmen

carefully

a

Jallowa

any

Assistant

started

returned,

neck

a

herders

6

short

hired

hold’rs

others.

Wallowa

by

class

He

of

5

to

of

and

for

class

stockmen,

with

tells

his

head

distance

in

country

by

permi—

on

the

horse

and

A

tied survey

control

the

Stand—

143

1906

not

camp

the

the

He fires

B

of

fires

of 1 I

( 1947. Arthur with District per Service have tried and was throughout with Imnaha Alva following because Forest to stock he The Jardine horse of would the the month the detailed horse the qualified headquarters L. Keeler to Supervisor Worked and Alva W. In had River Service great tree men Imnaha Keeler he or in job. get probably 19 Sampson salary account barbered was choked the could L. 1942 Sampson through to returned him and to as relief Keeler finally he River Diring for area under which count Forest Born as insufficient to O’Brien Eagle earn to took and at was insist a for that Guard the continue with of death Ranger to Wallowa 9-10-83 Rangers quit he to James his and written more paid the Creek. Guard many the High contact was the work occasional gave on at duty supervise the at job money careless for T. Appointment years. about owner anchored. Mormon. Mountain, with during acting Grady the nen for him by Forest as Jardine. he This out ranchers Ranger at Packer end the packed Forest an valued $150.00 considering Miller of trips the called as livestock Later other Forest excellent Service of Re Service personal who Forest Keeler but summers Tucker the held on for at Service the to work. he and as later for Officer. the he their rope and Pine returned payment after horse this on use ranger Gerald had the considered personnel almost in funds same of the became work. guided He on homes. Valley, in l95. some position expenses 1906 the very worked the Imnaha-Snake District the on Tucker. for for constant to second fun well two He and the highly downhill report High work the about the Eagle could with by through connected crest 07. old known, horse, with 9O.O0 dailowas, The year for informjn tra;el and $50.00 and Valley Wallo live 141i. easil te side the worF thai

[ [ [ 1’ p L

L Li

[ [

r

[

[

t

he

inspiration

tales

best

appreciation

Supervisor

the

the

outstanding

pride

industry

could

with

the

excellent

acres

vicinity.

Valley

The

headquarters

iilson

loved

fact

canyon

wishes

The

string

In

He

Pleasant

During

and

Keeler

the

On

While

on

see

and

did

the

was

fire,

so

Forest

the

that

many

to

stories

government

the

women

Bennett

were

country

dearly,

to

of

in

excellent

ICeeler

not

spring

his

in

at

go

did

32

on

he

Valley

Dug

at

many

jobs

jobs

the

good

his

Mormon

ahead

Service

behalf

Point

handled

reemployed

period

outstanding

was

cooperators

!Iema1oose

of

Cr.

and

Forest

was

of

and

training

but

well

a

that

condition,

pack

early

still

fire

Forest

and

work

fire

1953

he

fire,

Tucker

in

of

in

of

they

will

by

done.

needed

worked

get

string

Service.

the

charge

and

safe

duty

day

on

Ranger in

in

in

small

and

Cow

of

will

Officer.

work

miss

as

the

1949

these

and

Forest prime

1953

Dug

Forest

despite

working

the

held

on

doing

Celia

Creek

on

putting

and

crews

be

jobs

A1va.

on

presented

G.

Creek

the

Keeler

because

yoinger

several

fires.

physical

this

less

the

no

Service

J.

and

Happenings

Titus,

fire

Imnaha-Snake

done.

Others

the

of

methods.

outside

Tucker

fires

Imnaha.-Snake

in

His

position

had

skillful

worked

cooperators

long

of

and

large

personnel

many

it

vast which

Minnie

condition.

will He

the

were

advancing

to

prepared

Temperance

heavy

help

were

can

long

18

fires.

initiative

Mr.

store

through

perhaps,

carry

was

each

District

Wilson

days

look

was

in

packing

a District.

hours

Keeler

living

sied

source

of

a

several

age,

the

on

used.

straight

The

back

Creek

scroll

1952.

pioneer

and

and

the

and

ways

he

and

with

in

despite

Pleasant

job.

by

with

of

Durlene

was

work

no

kept

the

Such

hundred

fire.

145

He

of

of

time the

extinguished

action

though

mountains

great

or

to

ered

Cove

usually

were

infrequent

over

drawn

Mail

the

tration

the

occasionally

hardware

Grande,

biscuits.”

doubt

HOld

horseback.

the

last

There

young

only

because

the

O’Brien

the

number

and

It

taken

The

there

Expert”,

stage.

Districts

sometimes

required

of

should

Oregon

greatest

newly

passenger

for

three

once

store.

compiler

was

Ranger

intervals,

the

by

on

were

during

of

recalled

fire

visit

Freight

a

a

stockinen

them

on

built

months,

Wallowa,

be

delays

in

ready

week

in

three

no

would

of

For

handicaps

how

control.

born

1925

became

the

service

Wallowa

and

in

lookouts

the

railroad

to

the

that

to

fires

was

at

through

days

a

appreciate

fire

the

in

reminisce

where

and

Chesnimnus,

then

Chico

rather

swing

hand

next

acquainted

moved

mind

slow

between

nearest

County

to

never to

were

Cattlemen

season,

and

modern

Mr.

arrived

reservoir

and

three

La

Halfway,

a

efficnt

that

mail

short

by

pack

usually

the

about

O’l3rien

Grande

reported.

a

was

Irnnaha.

team

Elgin

railroad

little

also

Imnaha

all

Forest

or

with

Guards

3ervice

time.

or

in

and

either

old

four

Oregon

and

of

during

and

administration.

make

Waflowa

many

sighted

and

was

Howard

sheepmen

advise

man

and

times

Service.

All

wagon.

rode

was

years,

Union.

However,

Many

and

Wallowa

by

owner

a

prospectors.

and

power Wallowa;

Mr.

travel

batch

at

team

K.

patrol slow

on

and

on

or

small

about

were

Elgin,

O’Brien’s

O’Brien

and

O’Brien

The

September

the

Mail

help

was

some

out

and

transportation

of

according

from

operator

fires

routes first

Wallowa

there

except

the

sour

by

in

buckboard

was

Mail

kind from

Oregon.

would

Waflowa

in

horse

Even

the

same

adminis

deliv

dough

were

21,

train

in

La

the

at

of

for

to

1116

with

of

to

1908. a 147 C O’Brian the seasons of ‘06 ‘07 and ‘08 were favorable, with frequent summer rains. Mr. O’Brian worked for the sawmill company at Pondosa, Oregon

for a few years after he sold his hardware business. He was in charge of their office. The compiler believes that he worked there until about 1939 when ill health forced him to retire. It is known that he was working for the Pondosa Lumber Company at Pondosa, Oregon on

March 19, 1938. No further knowledge is available as to his where abouts in later years. Ranger Charles Blaflk worked for several years on the Pine District

and may have worked elsewhere before leaving the Forest Service. He

later was in the insurance and real estate business in La Grande,

Oregon where the compiler became acquainted with him. Mr. Black was

a highly respected citizen of La Grande, active in the L.D.S. Church and municipal affairs. Te always had a soft spot in his heart for the

Forest Service. He lived in La Grar.de until he passed away about 1944 or 1945.

[

11

Iii

[

[

[

t 1

V

Wallowa

quarters

the

instructions

with

to

addressed

L.

but

which

on

depend

His

at

1905

he

efficient O’Brien

indicated

endation

1905.

appointed

adzninistration

exceed

Hall,

October

examination

La

rose

was

continuance

light

It

specifically

It was

Grande,

was

The

entirely

transferred

Mr.

to

is

rapidly

Acting

seems

seems

$14.00

to

by

to

-more

administrator.

and

that

as

be

Wallowa

23,

presumed

O’Brien

and

Wallowa,

the

be

Ranger

established

EARLY

Oregon

fuel to

that

1905.

for

the

Forester,

nearly

held

in

training on

in

per

in

Honorable

have

states

the

and

the

the

Forest

the

for

appointment

that

received

the

PERSONNEL

month.

that

in

in AUD

and

authorized

fully

latter

centr1ly Chesnimnus

results

position

which

service

headquarters

charge

La

fall

IMNAHA

in when

that

that

Washington

at

Supervisor

The

Malcolm

Grande

his

justified

his

Wallowa.

he

to

part

ON

his

Mr.

Mr.

letter

of

of

and was

FOREST

new

and

was

Mr.

Wallowa,

appointment

located

T T 1E

the

by

Forest

the

O’rien

salary

Sheller

A.

of

was

a

job,

chances

to

O’Brien

D.

did

WALLOWA,

Forest

and

of

political

Moody,

two

1905.

examination

the

RESERVES

The

be

universally

C.

appointment

not

to Reserves

that

was

to

Oregon.

Reserves

was

came

reimbursed

dated confidence

move

serve

Superintendent

for

start

to U.S.

as

Howard

long

to

CHESNIIINUS

he

to

to

lease

one.

the

seems

promotion

be

December

authorized

make

Representative,

remain

were

the

O’Brien

for

La

A

effective

$1,000

well

result

K.

dated

letter

Grande

placed

However,

for

an

vast

logical

Forest

his

O’i3rien

first

regarded

office

in

an

18,

were

per

out

headquarters

September

of

area

D.

La

from

the

to

in

amount

October

put

Supervisor

a

1905

as

B.

with

annum.

Mr.

was

Grande

to

give him

room

recomm

over head

Wiflia

under

148

Sheller

as

which

and

as

not

22,

an 1. 149 C which O’Brien was placed in charge. The move wa also no dotibt appreciated if not suggested by O’Brien because Wallowa was his home. Howard K. O’Brien prior to this appointment had been for several years an employee of a mercantile firm at Wallowa.

A letter dated January 25, 1906 from Washington 0. C. and signed by Thomas H. Sherrard, Acting Forester, authorized O’Brien to expend not to exceed $38.25 for the purchase of 4 9axes 4 shovels, 4 triattocks, 2 crowbars, 4 hammers, 4 picks, 3 garden rakes, 2 handsaws, 4 shoeing hammers, 4 rasps, and 4 pair of pinchers for the Wallowa Forest Reserve

and not to exceed $19.50 for 2 axes, 2 shovels, 2 mattocks, 1 crowbar,

2 hammers, 2 picks, 2 garden rakes, 1 handsaw, 2 shoeing hammers, 2 rasps and 2 pair of pinchers for the Chesnimnus Forest Reserve.

On February- 28, 1906, Mr. O’Brien was authorized to expend not to exceed $2.00 per month for telephone rental. Howard K. O’Brien passed the Civil Service Examination that was given in La Grande, Oregon for Forest Supervisor on October 23, 1905, with a grade of 80.20%. However, he was not promoted to Forest Supervisor until December, 1906. Meantime he had worked as Ranger in Charge at a salary of $1000.00 per annum. Upon his promotion to Forest Supervisor his salary was raised to $1500.00 per annum.

For the 1906 season the following personnel were employed on the Chesrijmnus Forest Reserve. Salary

$1000. Howard K. O’Brien Ranger in Charge 900. Thomas E. Chidsey Asst. Ranger, Dec. 12, 1905 thru (Married stockman 1906. Moved to Wallowa from Prairie and carpenter) City, Oregon

720. Walter A. Fay C)iard, March 5, 1906 thru 1906 (30 years of age, owned .500 acres near Wallowa, lived in vicinity for 25 years previously. Took Rangers Exam May, 1906 and failed by 42/100%. Married and three children) 150

C $ 50,00 per mo. J. Fred McClain Asst. Guard July 1 to Sept. 30, 19 (Took Ranger’s Exam May, 1906 but failed by a small margin. 26 years old, married and 1 child.) flaring the 1906 season the following personnel were employed on the Wallowa Forest Reserve:

$1000. Howard K. O’Brien Ranger in Charge 900. Charles Black, Asst. Ranger, a1fway. Oregon. Jan. 1, 1906 through 190b. 32 years of age, was a miner when appointed, single. 900. Marshal F. Giffin, Asst. Ranger, Cove, Oregon. Jan. 1, 19C through 1906. Lj.Qyears of age, single, miner and woodsman. Stickler for regulations and made some enemies for Forest Service according to report.

900. William A. Stewart, Asst. Ranger, Wallowa, Oregon. Jan. 1, 190 mi1 Nov.15, 1906. 30 years o’ age, single. Miner and stockman. 720. AlvaL.Keeler, Guard, Wallowa, Oregon. May 1, 1906 to Oct. 13, 1906. 23 years of age, single. Stockrnan. Took exam for Ranger at La Graride. Failed by a small margin.

fl’JAHA FOREST ESVE March 1, 1907 the Chesnimnus and Wallowa were combined to fori the Imriaha. Personnel for 1907 as follows:

$1500. Howard K. OtBrien Forest Supervisor

Harvey W. Harris Deputy Sup ervis or

Ace Searle Clerk

Newton V. Downs Guard, Sled-Sirings District

Jalter A. Fay Forest Ranger, Chesnininus District In 1907 James P. Jardine was in the Wallowa area for quite some

time. He supervised the construction of the Billy Meadows Experimental

Pasture fence. He and Mr. Arthur W. Sampson made several trips into the high mountains on range studies that year. Alva L. Keeler packed their camp and served as guide.

ci

rz ci

L.

r I

r r

F

r

C

Alva

J.

Charles

Joe

Thomas

Joseph

Fred

Harris

L.

E.

K.

Keeler

McClain

B1ack

Chidsey

Carper

Asst.

Appointed

Passed Asst.

9igh

headquarters.

appointed

Asst.

Asst.

Forest

Forest

sometime

Government

control

Mountains,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger,

Ranger

Ranger,

Supervisor

agent

during

April

April

trapper

Supervised

exam Joseph

Pine-Eagle; Bear

—

Passed

transferred

Eagle,

1,

1,

1907

Chesnimnus

there.

1907.

in

1907.

Creek

and

and

to

March

Ranger

Pine

predatory

take

livestock

Irnnaha

District

Halfway,

to

area.

and

at

exam

the

Heppner

La

Upper

Districts

job

animal

Grande.

in

Minam,

Oregon

March,

as

151

Imnaha. Forest

L

[ [

r’ [A

[ [ p H

-

r

r

L [ H

-

perpetuate

three

Also,

September.”

the

Beef

Shropshires

in

a

The

giving

“Lincoln

sheepmen

raising

spered

later

per

1907,

prices

sold

ling

and

K.

domestic

good

porportion

general

Shropehire

O’Brien.

steers

pound,”

years

it

that,

“The

for

ewes

sales

cross

“the

them

It

and

Some

werej

should

have

Rams

have

the

$1.20

was

livestock

cattle

of

sold average

“ecoxd advancing

many

reduced

wool

a

These

brought

interesting

for

increased

to

Early

cattle

age.

with

much

“

been

reported

is

be

after

compared

as

have

other

mutton,

clipped

market

also

recalled

quotations

Merinos

inporting

high

prices

better

being

as

contract

“The

on

from

business

become

from

shearing,

much

sheep,

bred

that,

with

the

1907

as

was

items

policy from but

with

about

20

class

for

$30.00

have

that

$5.50,

Irnnaha

aspossible.”

a

the

wealthy,

unusually

to

prices

GRAZING

on

are

a

“the

I

this

in

great

a

sheep

were

great

$37.00

22.

am

account

and

of

few

it

of secured

high

this

per

to

weathers

livestock

National

anxious

locality

the

was

stock

were

included

wool

years

deal

were

$45.00

SITUATION

many

head

prices

the

“While

country.

for

good

Forest

customary

of

a

for

brought

to

than

reched

expenses

ago

good

blooded

and

beef

to

the

$4.50

as

Forest

during

sold

the

market

of

many

in

the

have

when

Service

not formerly

the

amount

sheep

wool

being

a

Merino

Cattle

former

for but

to

and during

report

sheepmen

per

bucks,

top

for

incidental the

the

a

was

sell

and

from

7

ewe

lambs

for

sold

of

is

hundred

price

year

1907

breeding

in

ewes

used unusually

amount

a

1907”.

sheep.”

on

feed

and

this

doing

which

steers

17

pound.”

the

during

have

$3.50.”

by

grazing

of

which

the

for

to

her

to

it

Ches

country.

weight.

Howard

1907

while

much

is

pro—

of

22

ranges.”

at

“Year

beef,

sheep

152

takes

good,”

“The

makes

imb

In

-

of

to These

E [ 1’

[ [

—,

[ L - [ r

-, [

[ L -

-

Wallowa

almost

of

ally

the

mountain

grazing.”

National

of

to

being

natural

Daker

the

1907.

1907

total

the

the

the

crease

side

head.

horses

8583

nimnus

this

its

a

condition

Wallowa

in

lower

center

linnaha

great

but

Counties.

wholly

ranges

exactly

Mr.

head

of

grazing

The

National

area

order

They

by

barriers

As

in

Division

blue-grass

Forest

livestock

approximately

0’ien

“The Imriaha,

new

extent

about

the

1907

of

of

and

along

were

Division

used

in

to

of

with

cattle

areas.”

townships

addition

new

sheepmen

purDoses,

Snake

Wallowa

Forest

in

give

their

6000

Re

and

of

fir3t

by

by

natural

suggested

lower

the

additions

the

grazing

(green-fescue

states,

the

trancient

Wallowa

separate

of

and

this

north

head.”

ranges

which

later

under same

800,000

referred

“Also,

County,

the

Imnaha

in

Snake

3

horses

which

barriers

range

South,

these

this

of

Tt The

a

Imnaha

grazing

-to

was

County

actual

pay

and

In

dependent

division

River

a

a

sheep

National

acres

accounts

the

this

in

a

Southern

line

large

to

1908.

Southern

made

permit

areas

have

the

chance

range

1906

as

as

above

number

and

districts,

division

area,

prior

forest

was

Big east

on

being

outlined

reduced

portion

into

were

the

ranch

to

in Forest

which

for

June

to

added

Division

Sheep

consisted

Division

and

and

to

of

11439

1908.

south

included

necessary

north

improve.” not

the

between

its

cattle

areas.

6

themselves

will

other

west

of

or

have

by

to

Creek,

under

overgrazed

1911.

head

this

withdrawal

side

an

and

the

are

was

not

approximately

of

increased

fringe

will

most

increase

the

The

because

of

permit

south

Imnaha

fuily

Marr

area

the

always

by

The

stand

cattle

Miriam

very

probably

Union

of

north

corresponds

area

division

areas,

was

Flat

condition

portions

aware

for

the

during

in

heavy

grazed

of

of

from

liber

and

open

between

and

and

side

153

April,

area,

out

2856

throu

of

in..

A o: U C C C F F F F [C r

and of

consumed for

4 Dist. 6 3 2

11 Niriam 8 5 (This 13 10 Poon1387 Total flncludes 7 12 9 for 15 14

‘frmncludes

a

PERMITTED

it, 1907

the -

cow

IiAHA

Mr.

The does

C&H 1285 125L1. 3097 2251 2500

New New 350.5

“is

100

and

are by

92

O’T3rien

numbers

part part

not

1907

Addition Addition

not

each

NATIONAL

16

listed

LIVESTOCK

include

28000 Sheep 18950 of 60044

42147 of 26000

a

1094 9600 21400

animal”. for

fair

of

Wallowa Wallowa criticizes

below

for for

a

stock FOREST

ratio

sheep

ON the

15 4-i 6-i Uncertain Uncertain 15 Summer Summer 8—1 38

Uncertain Uncertain 5_i Uncertain Uncertain

5—1

MINA24

1908 1908

Season

with THE

days days days Lower Lower

WALLOWA

permitted

800,000

- —

-

—

-

the as in

11-30

10—15 11-15 10-15

10-15

PORTION

the

fall

spr.

being

consideration

Minam Minam

charge

PORTION

amount

acre

Dist.

on

descrirninitory

2 1 4 6 3 5 8 7 12 11 9 13 15 14 10

of

the

PTTED

addition.)

WALLOWA of

4

11100 C&H

2500 3500 -600 3000 ÷600 11400 1500

4000

6ooo 3000

Imnaha

150

250

grazing

of

for

the

20000 Sheep 15000

35000

30000 15000 50000

LIVESTOCK NATIONAL

6000 7200

83200

3600

3600 yearlong 7200

National

against

amount

fees

1908

Season 15 5-1 15 15 Summer 5—1 5-1

7-1 ______5—1 Tearl 7—1 Yearlong Yearlong 5-1 5-1 7-1 & & 7-1 Yearlong & Spring, Spring,

Spring,

collected.

FORST

Winter

Winter Winter

of grazing

ON

Forest

days days days

sheep

-

—

— — —

- —

- — —

-

ong

154

grass

THE

1i-3.. 11—15 10-15 10—15 11-15 11-15 10-15 10—15 10-15 11-15 11-15

spr. fall spr.

Fall Fail

Fall ______

155

C 1907 1908

Dist. C&H Sheep Season 01st. C&H Sheep Season 16 600 28800 Various 16 1000 Spring, Fall. & Winter 15000 Yearlong 500 Summer 11000 Spring & Fall 17 *1600 5i — 6..]. 17 5000 4-1 — 11-30 4893 6-1 — 910 *3893 9—10 — il—30 *2400 5-1 - 6.30 *2400 10—15 - 11-30 18 600 5—20 -. 9—20 18 750 5—1 - 11-30 19 19 150 Yearlong 20 2423 4—1 — 11—30 20 2000 4-i - 11-30 4, 600 o? 9.10 2400 Li - 11-30 21 2089 5.1 — 11-30 21 1O0 4—1 - 11-30 1500 4-i — 6-o 2500 4—1 — 6-30 *2500 10-16 - 11—30 22 675 22 1200 5-1 - 11-30 23 200 .5—1 — 11—30 23 200 Summer 9474 Various 23 2400 Summer 6000 Spring & Fall 2400 Yearlong ,I arbitrarily assigned 600 of these *Same stock for separate to the Wallowa on an acreage basis. seasons. Total for the Wailowa Portion 15177 106421 25800 157600

Grand Totals 25564 166’465 37200 240800

TOTALFOR IMNA{A !JATIONAIJFOREST

SE 1ORSES CATTLE HORSES AND CATTLE TOTAL GRAZINGFEES l66,L65 927 24,637 25,564 ‘18, 977.78

Amount distributed to the Counties from the Irrnaha. Nation1 Forest for the year 1907 with acreages: Count Acreage Amount Wallowa 1,358,560 $1153.69 Baker 567,040 481.53 Union 593,960 504.39 TOTAL $2139.61 156 ipervisor O’Brien states that because there had never been a case of sheep scab in Wailowa County that this county was exempt from the State Lat requiring all sheep to be dipped, but that Paker and Union Counties dipped all of their sheep and that Dr. McCline of the &treau of Aniua1 Industry had inspected 98% of all the sheep in Wallowa County. O’Brien’s reconnendaticn for grazing authorization for 1908 (which it is belIeved can safely be assumed tO be the numbers approved and actually grazed under permit) are as follows:

Sheep = 225,000 Cattle & Horses = 30,000 Additions to the Wallowa National Forest caused the numbers to be increased in 1908. There were undoubtedly additional stock that grazed on the Nation Forest in trespass. Retired Ranger Grady Miller made the following

written statement on December 7, 1933, referring to an assignment he had before he received his ranger apointment bit does not state the exact year. -Towever, from the context of the statement it would appear to have been in 1908 or 1909. “Trespassing stock were numerous and persistent. I had one

assignment lasting six weeks as follows: Q’Go out in Chesnimnus country, record all the stock you can and see if they are in trespass. “I put in six weeks riding that country, recorded several thousand cattle and horses. On checking up after returning to Supervisor’s headquarters we found over 400 cattle in trespass as well as 125 horses. Adjustments were made by having the trespassers pay usual grazing fees for these unpermitted stock. Other cases were settled in this manner. Honest stockmen soon learned that it didn’t cost any more to trespass than not to, so for a few years this method was resorted to by a large percentage of stockmen.” 157

BILLY TEPWS ELK PASTURE

In 1907 the Forest Service began the construction of a sheep tight woven wire fence enclosing a pasture of 2560 acres near Billy Meadows Ranger Station for the purpose of doing experimental work and carrying on studies to determine if it would be practical to pasture sheep on Forest Service type summer range under fence. The pasture fence was completed during the summer of 1908. The obvious advantages were the fewer employees needed to care for the sheep, the freedom of movement for the sheep and elimination of handling by herders was expected to increase wool and mutton production, the predatory animal proof fence was expected to pay for itself in fewer losses of sheep. The disadvantages of course were, the cost of fence construction and annual maintenance, the absence of the herder to care for and doctor sick or injured sheep, the summer period of non-herding would weaken the herd instinct of the band making it more difficult to handle the sheep to concentrate on favorable ground resulting in the choice areas being severly overgrazed.

James T. Jardine and Arthur W. Sampson initiated the studies and Jardine supervised the selection of a site for the pasture and at least the first part of the construction. The pasture was two miles square containing four sections. Joseph K. Carper was employed to kill all predatory animals within the enclosure, which he accomplished with hounds and rifle chiefly, but some trapping was done, mostly on the outside of the pasture. The experiment proved the impractabiity of handling sheep under fence on the National. Forest and the experiment was abandoned after a few years. In 1911 a plan was made to use the pasture for elk which had reached a low ebb in population throughout Eastern Oregon. The 158 reason for the scarcity of elk in Eastern Oregon has never been satis.. factorily explained, but it was never-the-less a faot that there were only a few scattered small hands of elk in Eastern Oregonand South

Eastern Washington during the ‘90’s and early 1900’s. The young and newly organized State Game Departments of both states were of course promoting the enactment of game control laws and publicized the low ebb in population of both deer and elk as the undoubted result of illegal and unrestricted hunting for meat, hides and elk teeth. How ever, it seems to have been overlooked, or at least not mentioned, that elk teeth from yearling or spike elk were worthless on the market and the teeth from two year old elk had little value. Only the teeth from mature or old bulls were valuable. It is quite evident that hunting pressure was never as severe during pioneer days in the Blue and

Wallowa Mountains as it is today. So, we must look elsewhere for an explanation to account for the extremely low populations of elk and

deer during the 90’s and 1900’s. We will not attempt to offer this explanation. Several factors could have contributed to the situation, such as disease, overuse of key ranges, extremely severe winters and, of course, hunting. It might also be of interest to note that the Thdians of the area have traditions that teil of periods of plentiful game and periods of extreme scarcity of game. Arrangements were made to use the 1i11y Meadows Experimental Pasture as a place to raise elk and in the early spring of 1912 a car load of elk was shipped to Joseph, Oregon. The following excerpts are quoted from a feature article appearing in the December 4, 1938 issue of the Oregonian.

“The Oregon Board of Fish and Game Commissioners taking action in 1911 to establish a 6250-acre elk refuge (obtained from the forest service) at 131ily Meadows pasture in Wallowa County. Encouraged by

system

observe

elk

established

added

County

two

which

included

break

over

deemed

the

efforts

that

next

arrived

through

again

Joseph

Anthony-,

est

1912,

Jackson’s

States

Governor

hunters

seasons

elk

a

were

to

“Elk

summer

spring

declared

up

provided

was

“Captured

wider

crated

regulations advisable

and

March

have

the

of

biological

alive

deep

Baker,

the

then

Idaho.

have

West,

eliminated

taken

with

are

that

part Hole

open

of

one

area.

concentrations

increased

and

snow,

14.

though

an

loaded

sri

been

required

1913

Union,

in

the

in

first

the

of

of

to

with

area.

transported

open

accurate

Allowed

The

concerning

Wyoming.”

deep

survey,

the

Grant

to

This

have

increasing

cooperation

was

board

and

some

into

great

commission

Umatila

Billy

two

season.

greatly

bulls

snow,

to

only

Beginning

was

an

1937

County

to

procured

had

bulls,

a

check

check

picking

in

open

difficulty

Meadows,

box

rest

made

one

and

by

these

equipment,

a

been

certain

steadily

through

and

The

of

was

larger

wagon

on

car

season

in

in

calf.

four

possible

seven

there

in

the

them

a

Wallowa

injured

first

the

elk

and

1911-12

added.

and

1934,

herd

arriving

cows

and

sections

oer

proper

forest

portion

cows

to

for

were

kill,

each

out

out

However,

shipped

care

year

of

homemade

by

control

checking

died when

Counties.

two

the

of

of

are

In

and

year

loaded

23

the

which

protective

of

service,

March

the

open

a

of

193

by

days,

Teton

evidenced elk

and

first

to

six

meat,

herd

the

1933

until

Grant

open

scattering

the

sled

Oregon,

has

on

elk

from

most

stations

the

19.

yearlings

results

15

Pass

concentrated

captured,

In

legislature

increase

sleds

etc.

through

territory

run

finally

territory

net

County

for

of

measures.”

the

of

All

the

today,

to

arriving

the

as

Wallowa increase

40

March

This

United

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