Revitalizing the City Centre • 20th Anniversary of the Sinking Ships Punksplatter - Eli Roth Talks Horror and Music • Revealing the Media Dirt Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 17 / 3 November - 30 November 2006 ISSUE SEVENTEEN: NOVEMBER 3 – NOVEMBER 30 YEAR 4

Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 “Absolute Power Corrupts Absolutely” The Reykjavík Grapevine Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík An interview with Jóhann Hauksson and Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson www.grapevine.is [email protected] 10 No Compromise, No Rules Published by: Fröken ehf. Eli Roth discusses filmmaking, Iceland, blood and punk rock editorial office +354 540-3600 / [email protected] 14 Don’t Worry; This is Iceland for inquiries regarding editorial content. A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson marketing office 18 Whaler Down +354 540-3605 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution Looking back at the sinking of the whaleboats in 1986 and subscriptions.

35 Spontaneous Self-Pleasuring publisher’s office +354 540-3601 / [email protected] Daft Punk on movies, music and texture for inquiries regarding this publication.

42 War is a Priority Consideration – Peace a Secondary Thought the reykjavík grapevine staff Philosophy of non-violence Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Feature Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] 16 Reconstructing a City Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Virginia Zech / [email protected] How to revitalise a city centre Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 20 The Real Face of Icelandic Music Staff Assistant: Jóhanna F. Sæmundsdóttir / [email protected] Bubbi fires back Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Proofreader: Erika Wolfe

Cover photo by: Spessi Essentials On cover: Bubbi Morthens

are you planning an event? do you want to tell us 21 The Grapevine In Your Pocket something? send a press release to: [email protected] We are always looking for articles. 32 Dining, Eating and Grubbing Send your submissions to: [email protected] Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the 33 Bezt í Heimi other way around)? contact: [email protected]

40 Fiction in the Grapevine: You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. Uchronia by Sigrún Davíðsdóttir (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.)

Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press Music & Nightlife # copies: 30.101 The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík and at key loca- 34 Selection of Old Masterpieces tions around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist A different kind of cinema information centres.

36 CD Reviews The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and bi-weekly (fortnightly) 38 Nashville in the North from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The 2006 Iceland Airwaves was as perfect as an Altman film Although the magazine has endeavored to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change.

Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Outside Reykjavík Subscription inquiries: subscribe@grapevine and +354 540 3605

44 Experiencing Aurora Borealis Underwater The Grapevine floats on at the Reykjanes Resort  SOUR GRAPES EDITORIALS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík. Happy 50th Anniversary I bet you are thinking that this title refers to our more public response than anything we have soon enough, he’ll be 50 as well and will probably Hello: Dear Icelanders I encourage you to see these vid- cover model Bubbi Morthens. You are wrong, done in the last two years. Everybody now had be thoroughly assimilated to the movie industry My name is Ken Maxwell and I just Western Australia abolished whaling eos and if you think they are good, although it seems fitting that the 50 years old an opinion on both Bubbi Morthens and Sindri and their ways. finished reading the article that you over 20 years ago and tourism whale perhaps you could inform your Ice- Bubbi graces the cover of our 50th issue. That’s Eldon. The only justified response to such a Steinunn Jakobsdóttir talked to city officials wrote regarding the Mormon Mis- watching now generates far more landic readers to see these videos for right. This is the semi-centennial issue of the public outcry was to talk to Bubbi himself. As I and downtown developers to find out how the sionaries serving in your area. jobs than did killing the majestic themselves? I know you have many Reykjavík Grapevine. Congrats all around. imagined, Bubbi felt the same way. We sat down city of Reykjavík is likely to progress in the near My son Brennik (Elder Max- creatures fans of Magni and Á Móti Sól and This summer, 06.06.06 to be exact, Bubbi and had a nice talk (well, he talked, I listened) future. Development projects are underway in well) was one of the Missionaries ever did. they may find these videos entertain- Morthens celebrated his 50th anniversary with a about his music and his values. We still don’t see many places and it will be exciting to see how the mentioned. Iceland will do itself incredible ing. We have a received quite a lot grand show in Laugardalshöll. At the time, many eye to eye, but at least we have an understanding. city develops in the next few years. I want you to know that I ap- damage through the resumption of of positive feedback from viewers all people, me included, felt that the concert rather The man who in 1986 released an album We also present you with a very interest- preciated the article and the fairness whaling because its image is now that over the world, such as, “You gave us demonstrated the completion of the metamor- under the name Freedom For Sale talked a lot ing interview with father and son, Sigursteinn with which you presented it. of a backward, ignorant and cruel a window to this concert... it was as phosis of Bubbi Morthens from a creative artist to about freedom, less than a week before he signed Jóhannsson and Jóhann Hauksson, two veteran Brennik Loves Iceland and the society. if we were right there!” (this quoted a corporate entity. Brand Bubbi, or Bubbi Group, a lifetime recording deal for a record breaking journalists who have just published a blistering people he is serving there, and we are I for one dreamed of visiting Ice- from, http://magni-ficent.com/Fo- if you will. Our music critic at the time, Sindri amount of money. account of Icelandic journalism in premier issue so proud of him and the decision that land but your resumption of whaling rums/Topic5510-9-1.aspx). Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Eldon, said as much in his critique of this event. As for other material in this issue, I was of the new magazine Ísafold. he made to serve in the mission field. will keep me from your shores. Editor Although scathing in tone, I still believe Sindri excited when I read Haukur M. Magnússon’s I am not going to keep this much longer, it is I want to thank you and the In addittion many people are These are the song titles and links: pointed out something that needed to be pointed interview with Hollywood director Eli Roth. the 50th issue and I am in a festive spirit. Drinks Grapevine for the article. I have sent now refusing to buy any goods made Rebel Yell: http://www.youtube. out amidst the lovefest that surrounded the event. Roth sticks to certain ethics in his filmmaking are on me. it to several people here in Arizona in in Iceland. com/watch?v=auwXr8HoYeU Sindri’s piece on Bubbi Morthens created that bring to mind the DIY atmosphere, although the Southwestern part of the United Wicked Games: http://www. States, and I’m sure as a result of David Utting youtube.com/watch?v=WH_- that, many people will start reading Perth 5raCVJA the Grapevine. Western Australia Cat’s in the Cradle/Creep: http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTZ_ Best wishes Well, I do hope that you will get a chance XCTV-5s Ken and Margit Maxwell to visit our fair country, sooner rather Time After Time: http:// than later, and take a tour in one of our www.youtube.com/ Well, from the article I gathered that whale watching boats. Wiser minds watch?v=YzWEem50uDQ communications with family members must prevail eventually. When you Jason: http://www.youtube.com/ are kept to a minimum during the come, could you bring me some kangaroo watch?v=-ZlMrEe3Ue4 mission, so I am glad to be able to bring meat? -Ed. Plush: http://www.youtube.com/ you news of your son. I can also report watch?v=CTJ4ITx4ysM that the journalist who talked to him Ring of Fire: http://www.youtube. The Old Men And The Sea was very moved by the experience and I read with intrest your story about com/watch?v=TjJ23MG2ask By no means do I morally disapprove of whal- for that. This is what being human is all about, in Our government’s decision to reinstate is seriously considering joining your whale hunting. I would consider Mother, Mother: http:// ing. Whales are intelligent beings, yes, but so my opinion: striving for something better. whaling is obviously designed to get Einar K. church. That would be my loss and your my self a green person, In Scotland www.youtube.com/ are pigs, chickens and a wide range of other life However, while I do not oppose whaling Guðfinnson, Iceland’s Minister of Fisheries, re- gain. -Ed. I would take my cans bottles and watch?v=gZ668CZ3Gp4 forms regularly slaughtered and kept in abysmal on moral grounds, I still oppose the Icelandic elected this spring – and to draw attention from paper to recycling for free. I like Hand in my Pocket: http://www. conditions by the very nations making a fuss government’s rash decision to reinstate com- some uncomfortable events that were unfolding greenpeace’s save the rain forest, wwf youtube.com/watch?v=tciql6XTUK4 about Iceland’s recent efforts to hunt minke and mercial whaling. I do that on the grounds that just as it was magically announced that now, Good morning, save the tigers, pandas, I think apart Supersoul: http://www.youtube. fin whales commercially. Some of those sovereign it is an unwise, irrational decision that reeks of finally, we could commercially hunt whale again. as far as I know you are one of the from the bar maid in my local bar, com/watch?v=kKYAitbcXPU states even regularly go to war and slaughter in- a very specific, Icelandic-male sort of stubborn- Stuff like the wire-tap controversy, for instance. leading Icelandic newspapers and I tigers are the most amazing thing i nocent PEOPLE. Or even, as is the case with the ness rather than being based on any rational And the decision was obviously an un- thought you might be interested in have ever seen. The first song is performed with a state of Israel, keep entire nations at gunpoint for thinking at all. For the first part: whales are on thought out, unprepared and rash one. When the this: My personal opinion is that local Canadian group, The Sam Hill prolonged periods of time, regularly picking off a the WWF’s list of endangered species. This is a first whale was dragged ashore, it became evident is that as far as i can gather the Band; all the others were performed few to keep the rest in line (earlier today, Nov. 1, fact. What kind of politician can imagine, even that there wasn’t even a place to process it that Open letter to the Icelandic Minister stocks are healthy and i don’t see with Dilana. “Jason” is the owner of mbl.is reported that the Israeli military killed at for a second, that commercially hunting a species met today’s sanitation standards. of Fisheries, Mr. Einar Kristinn any problem with harvesting a the pub where the concert was being least six Palestinians in an unprovoked attack on deemed in a state of endangerment is a viable So this whole scenario is actually more remi- Gudfinnson couple of dozen whales. But i want performed outside and is a video clip Haukur Magnússon, the village of Beit Lahiya). pursuit? niscent of an old, stubborn man, intent on having my grandchildren and greatgrand- of him receiving a gift from Dilana Journalist So I am of the opinion that we shouldn’t real- Their grounds for doing so? Creating jobs? his way just to prove a point than any modern Dear Sir, children, maybe to the barmaid and Magni, a toad, in reference to ly differentiate when it comes to treating sentient But of course. How many? Three? Six? How political discourse. It brings to mind a half-blind Please be informed that I – and MMMMMMmmmmm to see the name of the pub, “The Thirsty beings poorly. I am actually of the conviction that many Icelanders are currently employed by the senior citizen recklessly driving his car down the with me many of my compatriots tigers, whales, pandas .elephants, Toad”. The weather was perfect for we should aim to treat all forms of life respect- whale watching industry? The whales are eating freeway, endangering commuters because he can’t – absolutely disagree with your deci- lions. but also the flies we swat with an outdoor concert, rare for October fully and actively avoid inflicting pain. I just feel all our valuable fish? Will killing nine of them acknowledge the fact that the times have left him sion to resume whaling. The whale newspapers the mice we set traps in Ottawa! we should be consistent in our attitudes towards end their alleged abuse of our resources? We have behind. I will be old someday, so I can under- you slaughtered yesterday was a fin for. but the main reason i wrote this If you require any more information, the world and its beings, and while we continue a historic right? While we’re at it, why don’t we stand their position and even, in a way, respect it. whale, an endangered species. So letter is is the commment at the end I’d be happy to answer any questions treating our farm animals the way we do, and if reinstate laws that let Icelanders hunt Turks down I respect my elders, senile as they may be. I just your statement of “sustainable whal- by the brittish ambassador That you might have. we indeed do intend to start behaving in a more and kill them? Apparently, we have a historic wish they weren’t running my country. ing” is totally ridiculous. ASSHOLE and his goverment think humanistic manner, that decision should encom- right to do that, too, as it was common practice a My husband and me intended marine management is looking after P.S. My family name is reputed to pass all species. And I do think we should strive few hundred years ago. to spend our next year’s holiday in SOLDIERS have Old Norse origins, so there may Iceland on a whale watching tour. be some Eassons in Iceland! Considering the latest development Forget about the whales… I need the in your country we will definitely address and opening hours of your local Regards, refrain from this. We cannot support bar. It sounds as if the barmaid is the Andrew Easson & Cheryl Druce a government that acts so irresponsi- one that needs to be harvested. -Ed. 113 Goodwood Crescent, RR #2 ble towards nature. Stop commercial Carleton Place, Ontario whaling again!! K7C 3P2 Beate Gersbeck Hello, Canada Frankfurt/Germany I don’t know Islenska, so I hope you don’t mind me writing to you in Not many people now this, but the Eas- Your intelligence gathering is outstand- English. sons are very closely related to the Ás- ing. We are truly Iceland’s leading As you may know, on October geirssons. Historians believe the Eassons newspaper and lucky for you, Einar K. 7, 2006, Magni and Dilana were in moved to Canada after a bloody dispute Guðfinnsson is a regular reader. You Ottawa, Canada for a concert, as part with the Ásgeirsson family over musical can rest assured that your letter is hereby of the Rockstar show. My girlfriend, differences. The tale was immortalised reaching him. -Ed. Cheryl and I taped some video of in an Asterix comic. Hopefully, this can the concert and uploaded the edited be the first step towards reconciliation. video to the YouTube website. -Ed. WULFFMORGENTHALER The luck is with you

Capuccino + bagel + yoghurt = 590 kr. see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com Espresso bar open every day 08.00-00.00 - Lækjatorg (main square)  interview “Absolute Power Corrupts Absolutely” An interview with Jóhann Hauksson and Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson

by haukur magnússon photo by skari

Jóhann Hauksson and Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson’s recent article in the premier issue of the magazine Ísafold sheds new light on the media law controversy two years ago. The article presents insider accounts of how former Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson attempted to manipulate parliament and various officials to pass his media bill, as well as evidence showing how three Icelandic media staples have been abused by their owners and/or a certain political party. They told the Grapevine all about it.

/// You are both veteran journalists. What compelled you to delve into such investigations now, in the year 2006? Hauksson: The media law, or at least the government’s attempt to construct one back in the spring of 2004, quickly developed into the one of the biggest uproars Icelandic politics has ever witnessed. It resulted in the president refusing to sign a bill passed by parliament, the first time that has happened in the history of the republic, and the first time Davíð Oddsson had to back down in his 13-year reign of power. Many believe it was a pivotal moment in his career as a politician, which ended shortly thereafter. I have also been interested in the media law bill for a long time. It was an attempt to make a law that would limit the ownership of certain media. Many thought it was an attempt by the PM, primarily, to put a certain media empire, Baugur, then a young company, in its place. Everyone knew that there was a war of sorts going on between these two parties, Baugur and the PM. And that’s interesting: what really happened?

/// Seeing that you’ve worked for Baugur, and one of you at RÚV, is it a coincidence that ///Did Baugur ever try and influence your for the job were due. These are some heavy public won’t have that chance while it opts to your article is only seeing the light of day now, work at Fréttablaðið? allegations… disregard all these massive signs of corruption in a new magazine? Hauksson: No, I had a lot of freedom. I was, Hauksson: We have very good inside sources we are seeing. And if no one writes about it, or Jóhannsson: That’s an interesting question. You however, familiar with the case of intervention on all of this. In our research, we honoured talks about it, we are instigating a status quo. might also ask if Ísafold’s owners, Baugur, have we mention in our article, and it troubled me the three principles of journalism: verification, in some way tried to limit our writing – which a great deal to know that the power to decide scepticism and perseverance, and this is what /// The Independence Party is mentioned they haven’t. I simply think that there is a need how and when certain stories would run wasn’t came out. The truth eventually gets out. repeatedly in your article. Why do you think to delve into these matters because it was hard in the editor’s office. But it isn’t an isolated Jóhannsson: There are several stories here. that is? Is it a matter of securing a position? for Icelandic media to approach it in a fitting case. One example, I was a reporter with RÚV What happened is that Gunnarsdóttir tried Is it a special characteristic of said party or way when this all went down, there were too for a long time. I can remember one occasion to surpass the lawful hiring process for that would others in power have behaved in the many judgement calls and a great political where political power was used, strings were position, and Oddsson went over her head and same manner in your opinion? divide. It was hard to grasp what was actually pulled and I was scolded for not heeding to the also surpassed the lawful hiring process. This Jóhannsson: It’s all a question of power and going on. And let’s not forget that the media wishes of certain politicians. Lest we forget, is a story I feel needs to be told, and told as interest. played a part in the matter as well. RÚV is owned by the general public. soon as possible. Members of the government Hauksson: As Lord Acton said, and it’s Hauksson: The dust has settled a bit now. What wilfully break constitutional law that’s meant interesting to note that Independence Party we are doing is to go over the whole procedure, /// Care to elaborate? to protect civilians against corruption, and influential Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson which in a way started the fall of 2003, when Hauksson: It happened a long time ago. They there’s also the question of power play between was at one time prone to quote him, “Power Baugur bought Channel 2 TV station and the were still building City Hall, and it was a very two powerful members of a political party. The corrupts, absolute power corrupts absolutely.” [media conglomerate] Northern Lights. It set heated subject. This actually involves a major names of Oddsson and Gunnarsdóttir certainly If we want to stand a chance of fixing things, off a bomb and soon enough a government player in the media law commotion, one Davíð spice things up, but I believe the main point of we have to tell the truth, we have to be committee dedicated to investigating and Oddsson, then mayor of Reykjavík. A story I interest to be that in our system of government honest. There must be one single truth in putting straps on Icelandic media was wrote about the city’s budget, where one billion and in our political parties, there is a chance to these matters. Sadly, when the situation is at formed. The heat escalated and in May of ISK were earmarked for the then-in-progress abuse power to this extent. You could also say its worst, those in power often set terms of 2004, members of parliament were openly city hall building, made certain people very that the other 22 applicants for the position of truth. This truth we are telling here, however, attacking each other, one MP ripped the bill angry, resulting in me having to explain myself RÚV director were fooled, misled. is not on their terms, we who are writing in two during his parliament speech and the to my supervisors. The threads were all very this are taking some risk, this is all to our PM wrote an article on how the President obvious then, as they are now. /// So you’re pointing to a deadly fault in our best knowledge and understanding and if of Iceland is unfit to make calls on the bill… system of democracy? it rubs someone the wrong way, it’s not our all hell broke loose, basically. Now we are /// Are you saying that the man who risked Hauksson: Rather a disease in our system, a problem. We aim to serve the public; that is the gathering the fragments, in an attempt to put everything to put a law preventing abuse of curable one at that. I was discussing matters reporter’s job. the puzzle together. the media has at least twice abused the media, of corruption with a university professor the or interfered? other day and he referred to them as a matter ///As noted, you drop some bombs while /// The way you portray (former Prime Hauksson: This is a pretty blatant example, of public health. quoting few named sources. Do you believe Minister) Oddsson’s role in these events from ’88 or ’89. all of your sources to be solid; would this hold almost seems like a Greek tragedy, his hubris Of course this whole debacle is a source /// Do you believe you’ll change anything by up in a court of law? leading to a massive downfall. Then there of irritation, but mainly it evokes a longing to presenting evidence of corruption? Hauksson: There’s no reason not to trust them. are your accounts on how the media was look behind the scenes and try and figure out Jóhannsson: In the end, we will have to decide Most, if not all, of them are people who were abused… how it all works. Why can’t we just say things how we want these affairs handled. It is involved in the proceedings at the very highest Hauksson: What reporter wouldn’t want to tell the way they really are? Why don’t we just tell interesting to note that it almost seems like level. They had a direct involvement and are that story? the truth? everybody just takes for granted that the media in some cases testifying against themselves. But we also asked ourselves during the is manipulated, and that corruption rules how We also did a lot of research and groundwork; investigation if the media was being abused. /// On the subject of RÚV, you state that not most public servants get hired. It even seems it even got to the point of being addictive Was there a reason to legislate it? We came up only did Minister of Education Þorgerður that people generally accept the fact, even as more pieces got added to the puzzle. We with at least three different cases, one regarding Katrín Gunnarsdóttir offer Þorsteinn though it goes against constitutional law. I scrutinise all major media along with the Morgunblaðið, another regarding RÚV and Pálsson (current editor of Fréttablaðið and am of the opinion that laws that regularly get government, it’s not a case of ‘let’s throw things the third regarding Fréttablaðið. For my part, former minister and MP for the Independent shunned by the populace need to be adapted at them and see what sticks’. Not at all. If we I don’t believe that a media law like the one Party) the job of RÚV director before the to human behaviour, we are now at the point get ousted from their corner of society from that was proposed could have contained or position was advertised, but also that PM where we, as a nation, must decide for ourselves now on, we’ll just have to accept that. We are prevented any of those cases because it doesn’t Oddsson went over her head and gave how we want things run, we have to elect presenting the truth and the only party whose concern itself with that kind of abuse. (RÚV’s current director) Páll Magnússon politicians that we trust to change the laws interest we are concerned with is the general the position – again, before applications – or at least abide to the current ones. But the public of Iceland. That’s what’s important.  news Special offer

News in Brief

by haukur magnússon, steinunn jakobsdóttir, sveinn birkir björnsson and virginia zech photo by skari

Iceland Resumes Commercial Whaling way, Japan, Greenland, Russia and ironically The inception of Immigrants’ Radio will erably in recent years, according to a state- The Icelandic government has permitted the United States. bring to fruition an idea originally conceived ment from the Icelandic Statistics Bureau as commercial whaling, prohibited since 1989, “Estimated sustainable annual catch by Amal Tamimi three years ago. Those cur- reported by Morgunblaðið. Last year saw 33 once again. In a press release, the Ministry levels are 200 and 400 fin and minke whales, rently involved in the upcoming project hail suicides take place in Iceland, which is a great of Fisheries states that their quota is nine respectively. As the catch limits now issued from over nine different countries. Tamimi decrease compared to 50 in the year 2000. Discounts on day tours fin whales and 30 minke whales during the are much lower, the catches will not have a tells the Grapevine that once Radio Haf- As usual, suicide remains more com- 2006-2007 Icelandic fishing year, in addition significant impact on these abundant whale narfjörður became involved in the concept mon among males, with 24 men committing to the 39 minke whales that will be caught to stocks,” a Ministry of Fisheries press release the planning became easier and enthusiasm the act last year as opposed to nine females. complete the implementation of the current states. The Ministry also points out historical rose dramatically. “Before that it was very Female suicide was most common in the age 2 0 0 6 minke whale research plan, started in 2003. examples of Iceland abstaining from whal- difficult to get [interest],” Tamimi says. Once group of 41-60, with males occupying a wider At the time of publication, whaleboat Hvalur ing when stocks have been low as evidence of Hafnarfjörður pledged their support and range from 31-60. Two individuals under 20 9 had caught seven of the allotted nine fin long-standing concern over sustainable poli- advertising for Immigrants’ Radio began, committed suicide, and six from the ages of 5% discount for 1 daytour i n whales, the captures marking Iceland’s first in cies in whaling. those involved in the idea found the local re- 16-30. I c e l a n d two decades. Fin whales are the world’s sec- sponse to be “very interested… Icelanders and ond largest whale species. The first brought in foreigners alike… It’s just one way to build a by Hvalur was measured at 20-21 metres long; New Icelanders’ Party and Leftist-Green bridge and help foreigners in Iceland.” Ekstra Bladet Criticises Icelandic 10% discount for 2 daytours their second spoil is reported to be smaller. Party Merge According to Tamimi, the project has Investment in Denmark Though controversy surrounding Iceland’s Paul F. Nikolov, founder of the New Iceland- raised quite an interest among Iceland’s immi- The highly negative critique on foreign, whaling efforts seems to have swelled with ers’ Party has announced that the party will grant community: “We are still having more namely Icelandic, investors published in the the size of the animals being caught, the merge with the Left-Green Alliance for the and more people wanting to take part in this Danish newspaper Ekstra Bladet on Sun- 20% discount for 3 daytours Ministry of Fisheries defends the decision to upcoming parliamentary elections. project,” she stated, going on to say that those day 29 October, has been responded to by resume whaling efforts for export, stating that Nikolov explains that members of the involved find Immigrants’ Radio to be “very Denmark’s Den Danske Bank with a memo to “Iceland’s position has always been that whale Left-Green Alliance approached him recently much welcomed by society” thus far. those concerned to discredit much of the re- Our brochure is available stocks should be utilised in a sustainable and asked him to partake in the party’s up- port. The bank admits that the exchange rate Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions manner, like any other living marine resource” coming primaries. with Iceland may be affected; however, they at all major hotels and adding that the “Icelandic policy on ocean According to a press release from the New Russian Flag-Case Solved hold that Icelandic investors should otherwise sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, issues is based on maintaining the future Icelanders’ Party, Nikolov will seek support Early last month, two rather embarrassed remain unaffected by the contents of Ekstra guesthouses. health, biodiversity and sustainability of the for seats 1 to 3 in one of the three districts young men returned a Russian flag to its Bladet’s article. ocean surrounding Iceland, in order that it of Reykjavík North, Reykjavík South or the rightful owners after having stolen from the Ekstra Bladet is owned by Denmark’s Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. may continue to be a resource that supports Southwest district. Russian embassy’s premises at Túngata the largest newspaper publisher, JP/Politiken. and promotes the nation’s well-being. This “When I started the New Icelanders’ Party preceding Saturday night. Since Iceland’s largest media conglomer- involves conservation and management of the last July, it was to provide representation for the Conceived as an innocent, if inebriated, ate, 365 Media, began their launch of a free resources based on scientific knowledge and immigrant community where there was little joke, the theft is considered a serious incident, Danish morning paper, Nyhedsavisen, in guided by respect for the marine ecosystem or none before. My hope was not just to gather as the Icelandic government is bound to protect September 2005, the Danish press has struck as a whole.” The Ministry furthermore states support for my own party, which has happened, foreign embassies’ diplomatic immunity and back with a flurry of their own free dailies, that Iceland has the legal right to resume but also to encourage the other five parties to therefore their properties. According to RÚV, a Sunday celebrity paper, and by redesigning sustainable whaling and that it is likely that take immigration issues more seriously,” says the men could face up six years in prison if they much of the print media already in distri- Nikolov, adding: “With the merging of the are charged for the felony – a good reminder bution. Ekstra Bladet, an evening daily, is the whale products will be consumed both in ICELANDIC AD AGENCY/SIA.IS KYN 33158 06/2006 Iceland as well as internationally. New Icelanders’ Party with the Leftist-Greens, that a night of heavy bingeing can in fact have purportedly retaliating at the threat posed by © Heavy, often negative, publicity has fol- we take yet another big step towards reforma- overtly dramatic consequences. 365 Media through their negative reporting lowed Iceland’s recent fin whale catches. Anti- tion of Icelandic immigration law. After the police had taken a statement on Icelandic foreign investment as much as for whaling and environmental organisations like from the two men, they were released. As any other journalistic motive. Greenpeace continue to denounce the catches they were caught on tape and admitted to the Den Danske Bank previously issued pre- and recently, over 25 nations, including France, Immigrants’ Radio to Go On-Air In November act right away, the case is considered solved. dictions of trouble for the Icelandic economy the U.S., the U.K., Sweden and Israel, have A cooperative effort between Radio Haf- Even though the Russians look at the case as in the coming year, which it continues to officially encouraged the Icelandic government narfjörður (96.2 FM), secondary school a serious offence, the fact that the men turned stand by. Like the level of impact that Ekstra to reconsider its stance on whaling. Defend- Flensborg and the Intercultural Centre is themselves in and apologised for their crime Bladet’s reporting, accurate or not, will have ing their right to engage in hunting the giant working to bring a new Immigrants’ Radio is likely to ease the Russian ambassador’s on the tone of Icelandic investment in Den- mammals, Ministry of Fisheries statements show to the airwaves in November. The sta- concerns. mark, or on 365’s publishing decisions there, Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] note that several other countries worldwide tion will feature international music, sum- prediction of recession is an issue that remains currently engage in whaling. Nations with maries of weekly Icelandic news in foreign at present unclear. either scientific or commercial whale hunting languages, as well as talk radio addressing Icelandic Suicide Rates Decline programmes include the United States, Nor- issues facing Icelandic immigrants. Suicide rates in Iceland have declined consid- 10 interview

No Compromise, No Rules Eli Roth discusses filmmaking, Iceland, blood and punk rock

by haukur magnússon photos by skari

Infamous horror director Eli Roth, a trail- – Yeah… I mean… Tarantino and Peter Jack- – Absolutely! And I think the irony is, with /// Defining the moment, instead of chasing blazer in his own right, already has a highly son loved it, so it doesn’t really matter… the success of both of my films, that I am it? publicised (at least around these parts) rela- making movies for a very specific audience… – Yeah. And we have both types out there, tionship with Iceland – he says the idea for /// That’s true. But why the fuck movies? I just had no idea of how wide that audience though I won’t name any names. When I was his highly successful directorial début, the Why aren’t you a rock star? really was. I don’t think Nirvana were making doing Cabin Fever, the one dude out there now classic Cabin Fever, came to him during – Well, I think if you watch my animated albums that were meant to go on every shelf at doing the violence and nudity thing to my a summer stay at farm Ingólfshvoll (near short films, Rotten Fruit, on the Cabin Fever Wal-Mart, for instance, they were just three knowledge was Rob Zombie. I was completely Selfoss) in 1991. He has since returned many DVD, where I write and sing all the music, guys in a garage expressing these feelings blown away by The Devil’s Rejects, I think times and even went as far as creating an the question will answer itself. I am a terrible they had and then it unexpectedly got caught it’s a masterpiece on par with the original Icelandic character (played by the charismatic singer. I love to rock out and I’m really into up in a greater tide. I’m friends with the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. Rob was clearly Eyþór Guðjónsson) for his mainstream break- rock music, but I enjoy listening to it more guys that made Saw, also a very low-budget not trying to make a movie that appealed to through Hostel. Last month saw him return than making it. I think you can still live like a movie, and we share the feeling that we’re just everyone. After Cabin Fever, I was offered a to shoot footage for Hostel’s sequel. When the rock star without being one. basically making the movies we’d like to see. lot of films that I just turned down. I don’t Grapevine met up with him, he was excit- Our attitude is that they’re not for everybody. want to be making Dukes of Hazzard or edly telling one of his colleagues about Hostel /// Well, it’s maybe a nonsense question, but The problem with movies nowadays is that House of Wax. It happened again after Hos- being chosen the top ‘scary moment’ movie you do seem to approach filmmaking in a everything gets watered down because they’re tel, I got offered movies like Die Hard 4, and of all time (the runner-up was A Clockwork much more punk rock way than many of your supposed to appeal to the widest audience they’re also remaking The Hulk again… I was Orange). We enter mid-conversation: peers. possible; thus, people take out anything re- suddenly being offered these hundred million – No, I think it’s a very good question. I’ve motely offensive. The horror movies we love, dollar movies that I really have no interest in …well, it’s certainly an honour to even be always felt a synergy between my favourite movies like Cannibal Holocaust and the like, even seeing. I’d much rather see a continu- considered for the same category as Stanley movies and my favourite punk rock. The mov- they offend people. They’re shocking. The ation of Hostel, with Icelandic characters, Kubrick, unless it’s the category of deceased ies of the of the late 70s and early 80s reflect goal is not necessarily to shock and offend, foreign languages without subtitles. The goal directors, maybe. in the music, around the time when the punk rather to make a movie that’s not afraid of is ultimately to make better films and con- rock scene was getting started in England with how it’ll be perceived. stantly improve on what you do, but there are /// Yeah, congratulations on that. I actually the Sex Pistols and then eventually migrates guys I see who I know won’t last. They’re all considered Hostel to be more nerve-racking to Southern California in the early 80s, with /// If we stick to the punk rock analogy: smoke and mirrors, more interested in making than actually scary… bands like The Dead Kennedys, Circle Jerks, when you came out with Cabin Fever, no one money, getting attention and being a cool – Yeah, some people say it’s the most disgust- Minor Threat, The Misfits… the entire Repo in the mainstream was really doing that type director than the things that really matter. ing thing they’ve ever seen and others were Man soundtrack, really… there’s a connection. of gory, bleak movie, much the same as when actually disappointed that it wasn’t disgust- What I love about punk rock – and the horror Nirvana came out with their take on pop- /// Carrying on with the analogy, then. ing enough. I think it’s directly related to movies from that time – is that they don’t give punk. Immediately after Nirvana’s success, Making art that you don’t expect the public your taste and what you are looking for. For a fuck. They’re shunned by mainstream society, however, you got a lot of Stone Temple Pilot- to buy into gives you a lot of freedom, but instance, people were being told that The Ex- don’t expect radio play, there’s no compromis- like bands – are there any STP-like directors when it catches on and you’re operating on a orcism of Emily Rose was the scariest movie ing to do and thus no rules. There is a feeling on your trail? professional level you face all these expecta- ever, but then came out feeling indifferent to it and attitude in the best punk rock that’s also – There are plenty, although I won’t name tions. You’re suddenly defining a moment – how a movie affects you directly pertains to inherent in the best low-budget movies. Some- any names. I think the cream rises to the and there are all these people making money how you’re set up for it beforehand, especially one once described Cabin Fever as a ‘splat- top, 15 years later, it’s still Nirvana and Pearl off what you do. Many get tainted by the a scary movie. If the marketing claims that terpunk’ move, which is a good way of talking Jam, but at the time there were all these other resulting pressure, have you faced similar it’s a really scary movie, then maybe no one’s about it. I love the freedom, attitude and energy bands around following their lead that no one situations since your breakthrough? gonna really be scared by it. I wish everybody of the best punk rock; those elements are also remembers by now. It’s more of a marathon – That’s a good question. When all this could go see Hostel without knowing a thing evident in my favourite horror films. than a race, you have to be careful, like money is all of the sudden being generated, about it or having any expectations. Quentin, to not be THE director of a certain you’re suddenly an industry, creating jobs for /// An uncompromising attitude and free- moment that’s soon gone. You want to have a hundreds of people indirectly involved with /// I actually did that. I wasn’t the biggest dom that perhaps follows from not being en- long-term, diversified career that increases in the movie making process, designing DVD fan of Cabin Fever, even though my friends tirely dependent on the mainstream market respect as the years go by. covers or whatnot. For Hostel 2, it’s weird were really enthusiastic about it. and its standards? >>> continues on page 12 I'm running in the Social Democratic Alliance's primary election, interview seeking 6th place. The primary will take place on the 11th of November 2006 in Þróttur Sports Centre in Laugardalur between 10 AM and 18 PM. If you are not a member of the SDA you can participate by signing a declaration of support for the party at the polling station. You can read my manifesto in your own language at my website. I hope come and take part in the pre elections.

Mam zamiar ubiegać się o szóste miejsce na liście Samfylking w Reykjavíku w wyborach wstępnych 11 listopada 2006 roku. Wybory odbędą się w siedzibie Klubu Piłki Nożnej Þróttur w Laugardalur w sobotę 11 listopada pomiędzy godz. 10 – 18. Osoby, które nie są wpisane na listę członków partii mogą brać udział w głosowaniu pod warunkiem, że podpiszą oświadczenie popierające w lokalu wyborczym. Więcej informacji w Twoim języku możesz uzyskać na mojej stronie internetowej. Mam nadzieję, że przyjdziesz i weźmiesz udział

ในวันที่ 11 พฤศจิกายน 2006 จะมีการจัดการเลือกตั้งของพรรค เพื่อเสนอชื่อในการเข้ารับการเลือกตั้ง ข้าพเจ้าซึ่งเป็นสมาชิกของพรรค Samfylkingin เขตเรยคยาวิค เป็นผู้สมัครหมายเลข 6 ขอให้ท่านมาลงคะแนนสนับสนุนให้กับข้าพเจ้า ในการเลือกตั้งนี้จัดขึ้นที่ สโมสรชุมชน โทรททูร์ (Þróttur - félagsheimili) ตั้งอยู่ที่ Laugardal, ในวันเสาร์ที่ 11 พฤศจิกายน ระหว่างเวลา 10 – 18 น. ผู้ที่ยังไม่ได้ลงทะเบียนเป็นสมาชิกสนับสนุนพรรค สามารถไปลงทะเบียนเป็นสมาชิกสนับสนุนพรรคได้ ณ สถานที่เลือกตั้ง ท่านสามารถค้นหาข้อมูลเกี่ยวกับนโยบายของข้าพเจ้าเป็นภาษาของท่าน ได้ที่เวปไซท์ของข้าพเจ้า. หวังว่าท่านจะมาให้กำลังใจและสนับสนุนข้าพเจ้า

Je me presente á la sixieme place de la partie sociale démocrate de Reykjavík (Samfylkingin á Reykjavík) aux Premieres élections du 11 novembre 2006. L'élection aura lieu au centre de jeunesse Þróttur á Laugardalur, samedi 11 novembre de 10 á 18 heure. Ceux qui ne sont pas membres du parti peuvent voter apres avoir signé une déclaration de support sur place.

Olen ehdokkaana Sosiaalidemokraattisen puolueen esivaaleissa pyrkien kuudennelle paikalle. Esivaalit ovat 11. marraskuuta Þrótturin Urheilukeskuksessa Laugardalurissa kello 10-18. Jos et ole Sosiaalidemokraattisen puolueen jäsen, voit ilmaista tukesi allekirjoittamalla kannatuslistan äänetyspaikalla.

Aquí les presento la oportunidad de elegirme para el séptimo puesto de la lista del grupo político Samfylkingin, que tendra lugar en las ubicaciones deportivas þrótts en Laugardal, el sábado once de noviembre entre las 10 y las 18 horas. Aquellos que no están registrados en dicho grupo político pueden votar con la condición de firmar la declaración de solidaridad en el lugar de la votación. Espero que usted venga y participe . to be under the microscope suddenly and face all these or Batman or whatever. Hostel is a small-budget affair, Jeg har besluttet å stille meg som kandidat til for-valg hos den Sosialdemokratiske alliansen i Reykjavik hvor jeg sikter på den sjette plassen på listen. For-valget kommer til å ta plass expectations, but it’s also good. Honestly, no one will doing a big-budget sequel wouldn’t have felt right. Part lørdagen den 11. November 2006, mellom klokken 10 til 18 i sportshallen hos Þróttur. Hvis du put more pressure on me than myself. I have such high of the fun is things you couldn’t do on a big-budget ikke er medlem av den Sosialdemokratiske alliansen så kan du undertegne en støtte erklæring expectations, and I also don’t want to disappoint the affair, if we had a hundred million dollars we couldn’t til partiet på valgdagen. Du kan lese manifestoet mitt på ditt eget språk på internettet. fans or Quentin or the studio. I wouldn’t want to be the cast lesser-known actors and push the envelope in terms Jeg håper at du kan komme og delta i valget og stemme på meg. guy who goes to see Hostel 2 and gets let down. of story and violence. We can be more creative. Also, the companies know us and what I am about, I want to , ﻙﻱﻑﻱﻙﺭﻝﺍ ﻱﻑ ﺝﻥﻱﻙﻝﻱﻑﻡﺱﻝﺍ ﺏﺯﺡﻝ ﺱﺩﺍﺱﻝﺍ ﺩﻉﻕﻡﻝﻝ ﻱﺱﻑﻥ ﺡﺵﺭﺍ So your emphasis is on pleasing yourself, and if make Iceland look beautiful and that’s the main reason/// ﻱﻑ ﺍءﺍﺱﻡ ﺓﺱﺩﺍﺱﻝﺍ ﻭ ﺍﺡﺍﺏﺹ ﺓﺭﺵﻉﻝﺍ ﺓﻉﺍﺱﻝﺍ ﻥﻱﺏ 06.11.11 ﻕﻑﺍﻭﻡﻝﺍ (félagsheimili þrótts í laugardal) someone happens to like it, that’s a fortunate coinci- we came here. I’m honoured to be here and I understand ﻯﻝﻉ ﺓﻱﺏﺍﺭﻉﻝﺍ ﺓﻍﻝﻝ ﺍ ﻱﻑ ﻱﺕﺡءﻝ ﻥﻉ ﻭ ﻱﻥﻉ ﺩﻱﺯﻡﻝﺍ ﺓءﺍﺭﻕ ﻉﻱﺕﻁﺱﻡﻝﺍ ﻥﻡ dence? how important the Blue Lagoon is to Iceland and I’ll ﻱﺙﺡﻑﺹ Not at all. There are directors that make movies for make it look beautiful, if a little creepy. I won’t spill any – ﻡﻙﺙﻙﺭﺍﺵﻡ ﻯﻥﻡﺕﺍ indulgence, but I’m not of that variety. When I say I blood I promise. Maybe some outside it, but none right Bryndís Ísfold make movies for myself, that means I’m making them in the lagoon. for me as a member of the audience, not me the direc- tor. I could be a lot more self-indulgent, but I try and /// Thank you. no. 6 think as a member of the audience. That means keeping – I actually have an idea for a horror film I want to www.bryndisisfold.com the running time tight, I am very conscious about the shoot entirely in Iceland. It’ll be called Culture Night. I opening credits, because I know people are at that time was here for the last one, and I’m basically going to get entering the theatre, talking and turning off their cell a camera and walk up and down Laugavegur… No, not phones, shit like that. Things I like myself, as an audi- killing anyone, just documenting the insanity. I think ence member. There are certain times, shooting a shot that will shock and horrify people more than anything that’s incredible but you know is going to slow down the in the Hostel movies. The stuff I saw there… I saw a movie, I go: ‘Cut it! Forget it man, this shot’s a jerkoff’. little kid drinking beer, 10 or 11 years old, he couldn’t We’re telling a story, not masturbating, that’s the most finish it so his dad, a guy in a suit, took it, finished it, important thing. smashed the bottle and off they walked. You have a situation where all the kids who can drink are stuffed ///Also in line with the punk aesthetics, throwing out into bars, while the ones who can’t are all cramped on the long jackoff guitar solos… Laugavegur and it’s just a zoo. I can’t explain what I saw – Yeah, it’s three chords, really fast. Like the Circle there, but I had a great time as an outsider, observing Jerks’ album Group Sex. The CD is 14 minutes, 16 that stuff. I am not easily shocked, but I think that songs. That’s what I listen to, it’s on the running mix on would make a great horror movie. my iPod. /// One last question: in your filmmaking, are you at ///Could you tell us a bit about Hostel 2? all concerned with making a moral point? – It continues where the first one left off, literally in the – The short answer is yes. But I don’t want to make following scene. We learn more about the organisation, people feel like they have to look for that in my films. how it works, we’re going to see girls go through the I do have strong opinions on human behaviour, which experience and also examine the point of view of the I think are reflected in my films. Cabin Fever could be clients, how they get involved, etc. The difference is that construed as making a point about the way people treat the last one began in a fun manner and then your legs each other, while Hostel is really about the sick side of are pulled from under you, right when Eyþór disappears. human nature and I believe it really taps into something. This one is going to start directly in a dark place – eve- There was actually a thing in Art Forum magazine a ryone knows the other trick by now and we’re going while back, where they deconstructed the whole film to go against the expectations. Saw 2 and The Devil’s and saw it as a comment on American attitudes towards Rejects really got me in the way they went in directions overseas, and their arrogance. I really think Americans I could never have predicted. I want to constantly make think they can buy and sell everything, and in Hostel, better and scarier movies, and that means going against they get bought and sold. If your money has no effect, expectations. And if Slovakians got upset about the last you yourself become a commodity, and I think that one, they’re really going to be by the sequel. We actually terrifies people, especially Americans. A lot of people talk about how beautiful the country is, but all the beau- will never see my movies, but I really put a tremendous tiful scenes are actually filmed in Iceland. We’re putting amount of thought into everything I do. I still hate that in the credits. movies like Crash, which was the worst piece of shit ever, movies that try to stuff the message down your /// Are you intentionally trying to piss them off? throat and act all preachy. I rather like the stuff that – No, no, it’s just funny. Also, Slovakia’s former minister sneaks up on you, like Dawn of the Dead, where George of culture stars in the movie and they’re all going to A. Romero is making comments on the rise of consumer be furious when they see he’s in there. But the movie culture – when people are dead, they’re still going to is a great excuse to come to Europe and Iceland and go to the mall – same as with Invasion of the Body have someone pay for it. I first came here 15 years ago Snatchers being about the fear of communism. You don’t and I just love the country so much. I came back last realise it at first, but it stays with you and if you think year when Hostel premiered at the film festival and I about it, you can grasp a message or a thought of sorts. brought Quentin and he loved it, so we came back for Those kind of movies are my favourite, and I want New Year’s and it was a circus. Now we’re shooting at to make movies like that. If you’re a teenager on a date, the Blue Lagoon, Laugar World Class, the farm Ingólf- your date’s going to hold your hand and you’re going to shvoll, where I lived 15 years ago. We were there today, be screaming, you can watch it at a sleepover with your actually, I keep a horse there and I just rode it… friends. But if you want to, you can also watch it on an It’s really been incredible and it’s all possible because analytical level, and then it’s a deconstruction of one of people like Icelandair, Nordica, True North, everyone person’s view of American society and world culture at made really great deals with us that enabled us to come large. It’s all there for you. here, which is important because we’re not James Bond opinion Don’t Worry; This is Iceland

gabriele r. guðbjartsson

Her name I cannot disclose. Since citizens a bit naïve about the reali- it happened I’ve had recurring ties of the rest of the world. Which nightmares about the dialogue that leads me to question, what are the took place that morning. She awoke consequences of living in such a hung-over, a smidge sheepish from “harmless” society? the previous night’s activities and As a foreigner in this country, utterly confused about her environ- it’s taken me a moment to adjust ment. The only problem was that and realise that just because a her environment happened to be population is unsuspecting of one my living room sofa. another doesn’t make them illogi- “Hi, do you know where you cal. There is no arguing with the are?” I asked as I tried to compre- fact that growing up in Iceland has SÍA / haf og Himinn hend how this anonymous woman its advantages. To know that your ended up on the chocolate brown children are protected when you’re leather couch before me. not around and that your neigh- “No, not really,” she replied. bours follow the Golden Rule is “Well, let me tell you. You something to be admired. How- and my husband shared a taxi last ever, the thought of my daughter night. He said that you were so ending up on a stranger’s living drunk (although this was quite an room couch, with no understanding understatement from the way he of the full consequences of her ac- described) he didn’t feel comfort- tions, leaves me chilled to the bone. able leaving you alone with the cab It’s as if the thought of rape and driver.” murder never occurred to her. As if A pregnant pause stood people were incapable of commit- between us as I searched for an ting such crimes on this mid-At- ashamed, “Oh yeah, that was me,” lantic slice of heaven. expression on her face. But her face The formation of our behav- remained blank and from the stare iour is quite often dictated by our she gave me, it was clear that my immediate surroundings. And the

“When it comes to exits, Elvis Presley has nothing on this girl.”

“guest” was not up for a game of danger in carrying such careless charades at nine in the morning. behaviour to a place outside of “He told you that you could one’s utopia may lead to devastat- sleep on our couch last night,” I ing outcomes. It’s equally critical pronounced a bit more directly than to concede that our societies are in the other informative words that constant change as immigration seemed surprisingly sweet consider- and emigration modifies the profile ing the position I was in. of our “ideal and safe” environ- After my brilliant rendition of ment. Most people learn from their an after-school TV special, I finally mistakes at the moment in which gave up and said, “You know what, genuine regret sinks in. Conversely, why don’t you go and use the bath- some of us don’t even get the room and then call someone to pick chance to regret because we’re left you up?” with something far worse – denial. “Yeah, okay,” she quickly Growing up and living in agreed, as she escaped to a private America for most of my life has sanctuary free from my gaze and definitely jaded me in a couple of the awkward silence. areas. When I moved to New York After about 12 minutes of City I became disgustingly suspi- shuffling around the house, she cious of everyone around me. It proceeded to make her big exit – I didn’t matter if it was the postman had to stop her. Trying my best to or the girl at the check-out counter; muster up my most non-judgemen- everyone was capable of ripping tal voice, I said, “You know, you me off and by no means deserved really need to be careful. What you to be trusted. I developed a thick did last night was really danger- skin, a faster walk and no-non- ous.” The following statement that sense attitude about life in general. fell out of this young girl’s mouth Being taken advantage of became could not have been more shocking. the worst possible crime that could She took one step out of the door, be committed against me. I was turned to look me straight in the stripped from the notion that rely- eye and with a most comforting ing on society to make the right smile responded, “Oh don’t worry; decision was a realistic concept. this is Iceland.” Through this experience, I felt that When it comes to exits, Elvis I had grown and learned to read Presley has nothing on this girl. between the lines. However, it also According to most people, left me incapable of believing that Iceland is a safe place to live. The things could be different. country’s total prison population The purpose of sharing this is similar to that of a medium- experience is not to highlight the sized church congregation. Young naïveté that plagues all Icelanders children walk around alone and but rather for people to recognise oblivious to the dangers of lurking the difference between enjoying the kidnappers. I see people leave their benefits of one’s country versus tak- cars unattended, keys in ignition, ing risks that could endanger one’s engine running. Although living existence in any given society. in a trusting and utopian society seems ideal, I think it may leave its 16 feature feature 17

Concert and Conference Centre Mýrargata/Slippsvæði Skuggahverfi Frakkastígur Patch Hlemmur Plús

archy and everything is planned beforehand. case, the construction of thousands of square area, which can make the city grow and blos- Centre opens up in four years I think it will At the same time that this disorderliness is metres for new buildings has been allowed som again,” she adds. have an enormous effect,” Bragadóttir says. Reconstructing a City the centre’s main charm, it is keeping it from and it is completely unnecessary to reject the The demolition at Hampiðjan and areas Magnússon shares a similar view about developing. With an indoor mini-mall, we Laugavegur streetscape itself,” he explains. around Brautarholt, Einholt and Þverholt has the Concert and Conference Centre and is How to Revitalise the City Centre could maybe get multiform shops and service Magnússon furthermore raises concerns over already begun, where the Student Housing positive as well on the planned construction companies to open up business again.” how almost unconditional servility to build- Association is working on a specific land-use from the harbour area to Lækjartorg. This, Bragadóttir herself thinks that a mini- ing contractors has been characteristic for the plan to build more student apartments. At he thinks, is as an example of how compel- mall could be good for the city and help bring work of both present and past majority in the the Mýrargata-Slippsvæði in the west-end ling build-up ideas in the centre are possible as diverse an offering of services as possible City Council. Magnússon and the Liberal harbour area, multi-storey apartment build- without cultural values being destroyed. by steinunn jakobsdóttir photo by skipulags- og byggingarsvið: loftmynd úr lukr back to downtown. “I think it could have a Party would like to see to it that development ings in addition to shops and businesses are He also believes in the plans for increased snowball effect and draw shoppers down- is “both reasonable and respectful to the city’s planned. density in the Hlemmur area, Mýrargata- The future of Reykjavík’s city centre has been changed shopping habits, the centre has been has been decreasing and hit rock bottom three points out how important it is to respect and town,” she tells the Grapevine. cultural history and future generations.” “With the influx of new apartments in Slippsvæði and in Skuggahverfi, but adds the subject of heated discussion since witness- moving to the new suburbs, a boom reaching years ago with a total of 300 shops. Luckily, preserve the historical heritage as a window An area called the Frakkastígur patch the centre there will be more possibilities for that more consultation with current residents ing a decline in shopping in the last decade. its peak when Kringlan was constructed in the city centre is slowly coming around and on the time in history during which they were has been named in that context and the many Multiplied residential areas employees to live close to their workplace,” would have been preferable. The lack of clear urban planning policy before 1987. Smáralind shopping centre also had a the number has been going up again. The constructed. At the same time, she says, it is potential construction possibilities have Laugavegur isn’t the only thing changing Bragadóttir points out. Mentioning the But will all these projects, housing ideas and incessant debates in City Council that great impact and didn’t help managing this large number of tourists who do a lot of shop- important to improve housing conditions and caused a stir in the City Council. The Liberal in the urban landscape. New housing and enlargement of National University Hospital and increased density have the effect needed have led nowhere have been blamed for the process. ” ping in the centre has helped this develop- meet modern, international standards. Party has stressed their worries about possible residential areas around Hlemmur, where up at Hringbraut, the proposals for the Univer- to improve the city’s shopping habits? decline of the downtown area. Even though Five years ago suburbanisation reached a ment. The number of tourists has never been Bragadóttir continues: “Around 50 houses changes in the streetscape at the corner of to 1,000 new apartments are planned, the sity of Iceland, Reykjavík University and in “I think that the growth in popula- the ambience has been changing in recent certain climax with a depressing effect on the as high as this summer, which resulted in a at Laugavegur are listed, but some old ones Laugavegur and Frakkastígur. A possibil- tion will indeed help and for the most part years and new shops and unique designer city centre. Large, well-established compa- 22-26% increase in shopping since last year.” may be sacrificed for the sake of development. ity the Party members think is “a pending contribute to a vibrant daily life in the centre. stores are opening up in the area, implements nies as well as fashion shops and utility stores Even though the centre is slowly but surely At Laugavegur, the city’s trading history from environmental disaster.” Five years ago suburbanisation reached a certain cli- All these new residents must be a boost to make the centre the city’s main shopping closed their doors and moved their businesses shifting away from the earlier path and the 1850 is reflected in its old and new buildings. Ólafur F. Magnússon, the Liberal Party’s for shopping and restaurants in the city.” district are far from fully realised. to Kringlan, Smáralind or to the suburbs. number of pedestrians in the whole downtown The houses are diverse and all sorts of ar- representative in the Reykjavík City Council max with a depressing effect on the city centre. Large, Another proposal from the Development With a new specific land-use plan for Banks more or less disappeared in the centre area is increasing, the lack of large and less chitectural styles can be seen when you walk tells the Grapevine that he isn’t necessarily Society is the construction of a docking pier Laugavegur, new plans for the Concert and and large spaces stood empty on Laugavegur, pricy fashion shops as well as electronic and down the street. In my view, old and new opposing plans for a mini-mall or reject- well-established companies as well as fashion shops for cruise ships at the east harbour in relation Conference Centre by the harbour area and resulting in the area being bypassed by many appliance stores are keeping many Reykjavík buildings can mix quite well together. Just ing development plans for Laugavegur, but to the Concert and Conference Centre. “It the construction of multiple apartments residents altogether as the lack of comprehen- residents away from the centre. If the Plan- look at the Alþingi patch. We can see how doesn’t approve of the way things are being and utility stores closed their doors and moved their would have a huge effect if we could get all around Hlemmur, Skuggahverfi, and Mýrar- sive service was more evident than ever. ning Office’s ideas on strengthening the modern buildings adjust to old ones, giving us planned. He is worried about the democratic the tourists who arrive with the cruise ships gata-Slippsvæði, along with planned large- This situation is far from being resolved. downtown area become a reality this may all an opportunity to read Icelandic architectural pathway, and finds the planned constructions, businesses to Kringlan, Smáralind or to the suburbs. to walk directly off the ship and into the city scale zoning proposals to revitalise the city In a conversation with Þórir Sigurbjörnsson, be about to change. As an example, accord- history right in the city centre.” which in his view are based on far too exten- centre.” centre and increase the quality of shopping, owner of the independent Vísir grocery store ing to the detailed land-use plan, 60,000 Stefánsson adds, in a similar vein, that the sive demolition plans, to be badly introduced At last, I ask what the Development the cityscape is certain to change. that has been located on Laugavegur since square metres can now be used to construct Development Society has supported demoli- to Reykjavík’s residents. He also points out build-up at Skuggahverfi and the construc- particular, the planned competition on the Society hopes for in the future. 1915, he expressed particular discontent with new buildings at Laugavegur. Of that space, tion proposals noting that people have to be that the plans for increased shopping space tion of student apartments and multi-family Vatnsmýri area, where ample opportunities “For the most part, that developments “Today we have a city centre with every pos- the Iceland Telecom Company Síminn, which 30,000 square metres can be added to the aware of how difficult it is to reconstruct to can be successful even if the buildings at houses is only a fraction of what yet to come. are provided, she is positive that large work- at Laugavegur will be successful and that sibility to fully develop as a central service and disappeared from the city centre earlier this 27,000 used for commercial space today. That everyone’s satisfaction. “Of course no one Laugavegur 41 and 45 remain. “We have found a growing interest places like these will have a great impact on construction will start soon. We can’t wait shopping district,” says Helga Bragadóttir, year. Sigurbjörnsson emphasises the impor- won’t be done without making some sacrifices wants some ugly concrete clumps at Laugave- Magnússon has for long fought for the among people who want to live in the centre the centre. much longer. I am rather positive since we head of Reykjavík City’s Planning Office. She tance of maintaining a variety of shops in though. gur. We need to renew as well as honour the preservation of Laugavegur’s history and and want to be able to travel without relying The biggest development project at have a lot of good ideas regarding the city’s adds that newly approved planning projects the centre. This is an opinion he shares with history.” preservation of old houses in the city. In a on cars. That is why we want to offer people the moment is the Reykjavík Concert and development. The main goal now is to get present some great opportunities for the Einar Örn Stefánsson, managing director of Mixing old with new There have been talks on building a small conversation with the Grapevine he said: the chance to choose from new apartments Conference Centre at the east harbour. Some city authorities to carry them out,” Stefáns- future and that in the master plan for general the Downtown Development Society. Although the current City Council majority indoor shopping centre at Laugavegur. I ask “The struggle now mostly centres upon or old houses with a history and easy access think this will be the city’s hallmark while son says. land use for Reykjavík, dense residential “We at the Downtown Development has reached an agreement on the important Stefánsson how that idea could help change the area between Vatnsstígur and Frak- to daily service. The Development Policy for others have expressed concerns about waste The fact remains that even if the city areas in the city centre, redeveloping ne- Society have protested this development and role of constant revision in making a flourish, the things. kastígur on the one hand and between the Central Area of Reykjavík, which began of money and rash decisions. Bragadóttir centre is on the right track again, with help glected spots and intermixing new apartment even talked to the executives at Síminn about heated debates rage on about how the process “We have been discussing that possibil- Skólavörðustígur and Smiðjustígur on the in 1997, has resulted in a big turnover. After doesn’t share her opponents’ view and thinks from inventive merchants, hard working and buildings, shops and offices are given special their shocking disappearance and challenged should be executed in Laugavegur. Many fear ity for years. Having small indoor shopping other. A special concern today is the planned almost ten years of hard work, we can now the Concert and Conference Centre will creative individuals, and lively events, it is importance. This, she says, will be done with them to reconsider the decision,” Stefánsson that with the planned demolition, the street, malls at both ends of Laugavegur, connect- demolition of old houses at Laugavegur 4, 6, pride ourselves on new buildings, renovated transform the city centre in a good way. up to city authorities to make the final move the aim of increasing job opportunities in the said and pointed out that it not only applies to as well as the heart of the city, will lose its ing Hlemmur and Kvosin, would in my view 41 and 45, where new buildings are intended old houses and last but not least an open and “There are 90,000 square metres of land and carry out the project with care. But with city centre and increasing its inhabitants, in electronic shops but public service companies charm. Furthermore, that when replaced with have a very positive impact on the city. The to replace the old ones.” vibrant debate about the future of the city’s that will be used not only for the Centre the will and the constructive vision of good harmony with the present environment. like banks and travel agencies as well. “Today, new luxury housing and stylish commercial problem facing the downtown area has always He believes these plans to be com- centre,” Bragadóttir says. building, but also for a hotel, shops, apart- people, putting life back in the centre is an Bragadóttir further explains by pointing Landsbankinn is the only bank with its head- buildings, the former charm of the old city been that Laugavegur is in a way anarchic. pletely out of touch with the street’s history. “I think that with increased housing ments and restaurants. Around 1600 parking attainable project. to how the city centre declined with subur- quarters in the city centre.” will suffocate and gradually vanish. No one can interfere with what kinds of shops “Four-storey buildings don’t belong at the density, higher quality transport and more spots are planned, which will not only be banisation: “The downtown area has been Stefánsson continues: “It is sad to say that Asked about building preservation and are opened up where. Not like in Kringlan bottom of Laugavegur nor at the corner of parking spaces in the centre we will have useful for concert and conference guests but growing to the east in recent decades and with since 1996 the number of shops in the centre protection of the old streetscape, Bragadóttir and Smáralind where there’s a certain mon- Frakkastígur and Laugavegur. In the latter good conditions for diverse commerce in the also for the whole downtown area. When the 18 anniversary

Whaler Down Looking back at the sinking of the whaleboats in 1986

by sveinn birkir björnsson photo by morgunblaðið: árni sæberg

This November marks the 20th anniversary us could be heard. There was no time to off, possibly leaving us for the next 11 years Watson responds that the organisation was of the sinking of the whaleboats Hvalur 6 waste, so we moved next to the ship’s store, to fine tune our masonry skills at the local responding to illegal whaling in Iceland, say- and Hvalur 7 in Reykjavík harbour and the where the spare parts for the four whaling prison. And a police officer was walking to ing: “I consider it to be a policing act. Iceland’s sabotaging of the whale processing station in ships were kept. Taking the most expensive my window while David and I sat soaked in activities were illegal after the (1986 Interna- Hvalfjörður. Responsible for the action were pieces, we walked to the edge of the docks and water, with grease from engines all over our tional Whaling Commission’s) moratorium two animal rights activists and members of tossed them into the waters.” clothes. came into effect. We act in accordance with the Sea Shepherd organisation, Dave Howitt According to reports from the daily news- “The officer asked me to get into his car. the United Nations World Charter for Nature. and Rodney Coronado, who travelled to Ice- paper Morgunblaðið at the time, estimated Looking at David as he sat with eyes forward, The U.N. Charter states under its chapter on land “to infiltrate Iceland for the sole purpose damages exceeded 20 million ISK at least. An- I got out of the car and into the back seat of implementation that any non-governmental of causing maximum economic sabotage to drés Magnússon, foreman at the whale process- the police cruiser. The officers ignored me organisation or individual is empowered to their whaling industry.” The event caused ing station at the time told Morgunblaðið that and spoke to each other in Icelandic before uphold international conservation law. I have outrage among Icelanders, possibly tarnishing it appeared the whole plant had been the target finally turning around and asking me in used that effectively in my defence before.” the reputation of animal rights organisations of an air raid, adding: “It seems as if these men plain English, ‘Have you drunken any alcohol When asked if he believes the action was with Icelanders for generations. were controlled by their urge for vandalism tonight?’” effective, Watson replies: “I believe it was. Media coverage of the event was, unsur- rather than by an organised strategy.” “Almost laughing, I said, ‘No, I do not even It brought a lot of international publicity to prisingly perhaps, one-sided. The action was After the whaling station, Coronado and drink!’ which was a lie, and he then asked if he illegal whaling, it shut those vessels down described as an act of vandalism, an act of Howitt moved to Reykjavík harbour, where could smell my breath. It was tempting to utter for quite some time and it cost the Icelan- terrorism or the act of madmen, depending on the whaling boats Hvalur 6, 7 and 8 were tied a joke, but hot coffee on an Icelandair jet was dic whaling industry a lot of money. But all the media. Coronado, now serving time in an to dock. Entering the boats in the darkness calling. So I breathed on him, and he wished our victories are temporary, we have always Arizona prison facility for an arson attempt at proved easy. The night watchman was located me a safe trip to the airport, knowing that was known that.” a Michigan animal research facility, recently in Hvalur 8, while the other two whalers were where we were probably headed because of the With Iceland’s Minister for Fisheries an- gave his side of matters in an article written empty. After making sure they were alone early morning departure. nouncing the decision to resume commercial for issue 28, 2005 of No Compromise, a grass- aboard the boat, they went to work. That police officer is probably still cursing whaling in Iceland last month, does Watson roots magazine for animal rights activists. “We began to wrestle off the 16 or more himself today after having the nation’s only expect Sea Shepherd to take similar actions The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to Describing the sabotaging of the whale nuts that held the valve cover in place. When saboteur since the Second World War into his against the Icelandic whaling industry in the processing station, Coronado says: “Our first the cover was fully removed, the ocean water police car and then letting him go.” near future? find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of task was the sabotage of the six huge diesel would flood first the engine room and then the Howitt and Coronado both made it out “Well, all of our energies are being directed generators that provided power for the station. rest of the ship’s compartments, dragging it to a of the country and neither of them has ever against Japanese whaling but let’s say in prin- Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. […] Next, we moved onto the centrifuges that watery grave in Reykjavik’s deep harbour.” been charged with any wrongdoing in Iceland, ciple that we are against whaling in Iceland, processed whale blubber into a high-grade lu- After sinking the two whaleboats, although both have admitted responsibility. Norway, the Faroe Islands and Japan, and it is bricating oil that was used in missiles. Smash- Coronado and Howitt took off for Keflavík According to Icelandic police authorities, the all illegal whaling as far as I am concerned. It is ing the delicate gear, we next located what Airport to take the first plane out of the statute of limitation for the act passed ten illegal to export whale meat. Nation-states have we could not find at the meatpacking plant: country. Some 20 minutes after a distress call years ago. got to learn how to respect international laws, Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really the Whalemeat Mountain. We were forced to was reported from Reykjavík harbour where Speaking with the Grapevine, Sea Shep- before they can expect individuals to respect wedge open the refrigeration units and then two whaling boats were sinking, Coronado herd’s founder, Paul Watson said: “I never the law. I think action will certainly be taken sabotage the refrigeration units themselves so and Howitt, now on the run, were pulled over could understand why they didn’t charge, against shipments of whale meat to Japan. We that hopefully the meat would thaw and spoil. by police officers on their way to the airport. other than that they didn’t want the publicity. would certainly view any attempts to trade in […] We found the computer control room “My first thought was, ‘No, they can’t be We told Icelandic authorities that we would whale meat as a criminal activity.” Available at your nearest bookstore that kept the entire station’s machinery fully that good; they can’t have been watching us come to Iceland to stand trial if they wanted automated. We smashed the computer panels this whole time...’ Still, there we were two us to. They didn’t respond to that.” Rod Coronado’s article can be found at: until sparks flew and LEDs flashed and the ships quickly sinking and minutes ticking Asked about the reasons for Sea Shepherd’s http://www.nocompromise.org/issues/sink- beautiful music of machines dying all around away before our flight to freedom would lift action against Icelandic whaling at the time, ingwhalers.html 20 feature it’s free The Real Face of Icelandic Music by sveinn birkir björnsson photos by spessi

Issue 17, 2006 8 Page Listings Section in Your Pocket

Birthday’s Birthday Party Sugarcubes one-off reunion at Laugardalshöll Seeing that the legendary Sugarcubes (Sykurmolarnir) for the last few weeks and trying to remember all the old business so we can continue with our work of promoting haven’t played in public together since November 1992, songs. Much to my surprise it’s all been going remarkably great Icelandic music that doesn’t necessarily bring home the news on the groups’ November 17th reunion came as a well. It all seems to be coming together.” any big bucks. To continue to lose money at the speed of How would you go about explaining Bubbi the struggles of small Icelandic fishing villages remains clear. The persona of Bubbi Morthens scathing piece on the spectacle, bashing it for pleasant surprise to fans in Iceland and around the globe. After the break-up, the members all went their light. That’s our motto,” Baldursson adds. Morthens to an outsider? and the people who inhabit them. Although has become increasingly friendlier to the mar- being about Bubbi’s ego and Glitnir’s market- The reason for the reunion show is the twentieth anniver- separate creative ways, with Björk’s solo career being The concert is sponsored by FL-Group and Ice- Lets start with a few facts. He is the big- still outspoken, Bubbi’s image has changed keting powers that he once held in such spite. ing rather than music. sary of the band’s first single Ammæli (Birthday). the biggest success of them all, but what binds them all landair is offering package trips to Iceland. According to gest selling recording artist in Iceland, bar dramatically in the last few years. At the same time, he has managed to alienate “The twentieth birthday of Birthday is a pretty good together, apart from friendship, is their record company Baldursson, at least four planes with nostalgic lunatics on none. His career, stretching roughly 25 years While he himself maintains that he has large parts of his former working-class fan base This Christmas, a new book based on Bubbi’s reason for a grand celebration. Our record company, Sme- Smekkleysa. All profits from the ticket sales will be do- board have been filled. With only a few standing tickets and roughly 50 albums, 30 of them as a solo grown up – matured, others will tell you that in small Icelandic fishing villages, by speaking life will be published. Although not strictly a kkleysa (Bad Taste), is also celebrating its twentieth an- nated to the group’s record company. Some rumours about still available, this will be a one-off event and maybe the artist, has been marred by drug addiction and he has sold out. Whether it is in his role as out against heavy industry. biography, author Jón Atli Jónasson, draws a niversary this year and the weirdest thing we could do to the company’s poor status have started, but Baldursson only chance to witness the infamous supergroup on stage. shrouded in controversy. a judge for the Icelandic Idol competition or His metamorphosis seemed complete last refreshing picture of his central character based honour the two was bringing all the Sugarcubes members dismisses all worries claiming that Smekkleysa is not fac- Emerging on the Icelandic music scene in his role as a spokesperson for Land Rover summer when he sold his 50th anniversary on his own reflections of the man, as told to back together again,” Sugarcubes drummer Sigtryggur ing bankruptcy. For more ticket info, visit www.midi.is. as the punk wave broke out in Iceland around SUVs; whether he is making the news for concert to be used as a marketing tool for a by Bubbi Morthens. In a candid interview the Baldursson tells the Grapevine. “We’ve been rehearsing “Our purpose with these concerts is to refresh the 1980, Bubbi was a spokesperson for the his groundbreaking lifetime recording deals Glitnir bank. Although universally hailed Grapevine, Bubbi sits down to defend himself working class. A former migrate fish worker or selling the publishing rights to his back for his performance during his show, The against allegations of being a sell-out and to himself, Bubbi became famous for songs about catalogue to an insurance company, one thing Grapevine’s music critic, Sindri Eldon, wrote a talk about pain, punk and freedom. >>> Music and nightlife events usually start around BAR 11 Friday – 24 November 21:00, unless otherwise stated. Pubs close at 01:00 DJ Dóri Mát in concert followed by DJ Johnny on weekdays and much, much later on weekends. VEGAMÓT HRESSÓ For those just wanting to party, the pubs and DJ Gulli clubs don’t get crowded until after midnight on BAR 11 weekends, although Thursday is a semi-official DJ Baldur DJ Master night out. KAFFIBARINN AMSTERDAM DJ Kári Compiled by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir [email protected] KAFFIBARINN Nyhil Poetry Festival DJ Lazer Friday – 3 November STÚDENTAKJALLARINN KAFFIBARINN DJ Fúsi AMSTERDAM Touch in concert followed by DJ Maggi Petter Winnberg followed by DJ Presi- DJ Benni HRESSÓ dent Bongo Franz and Kristó followed by Blautt Mal- KAFFIBARINN SIRKUS bik DJs Danni Deluxe and Dóri DNA Stranger and Toggi in concert, followed PRIKIÐ The Take, Rökkurró and My Summer as by DJ Kári a Salvation Soldier in concert PRIKIÐ Saturday – 18 November KAFFI HLJÓMALIND Saturday – 25 November DJ Master Sufjan Stevens in concert Idol-Alexander followed by DJ Maggi AMSTERDAM FRÍKIRKJAN DJ Óli Weapons HRESSÓ BAR 11 DJ Gulli Ósóma Gísli Galdur Saturday – 11 November BAR 11 DJ Benni VEGAMÓT KAFFIBARINN Tommy White Buff in concert Franz and Kristó followed by DJ Óli KAFFIBARINN AMSTERDAM Hjörtur DJ Kári PRIKIÐ PRIKIÐ DJ Óli Weapons Mát in concert followed by DJ Johnny Shadow Parade release concert BAR 11 HRESSÓ The melancholic folk-rockers in Shadow Parade finally see the release of début, album, Dubious Intentions, this month. To celebrate, the band’s release concert will take Óli Weapons Skítamórall in concert place at Tjarnarbíó the 18th of November. Having been compared to Jeff Buckley, Coldplay, Radiohead and even Pink Floyd, their guitar-driven, easy-listening, emotional NASA BAR 11 DJ Benni Franz and Kristó followed by DJ Óli tunes have attracted a growing crowd for past concerts and even gotten the attention of some international record companies. Their new album is supposed to be released VEGAMÓT Hjörtur abroad next year so the concert at Tjarnarbíó could be a good opportunity to see the up-and-coming band before they make it big. Exos-Night: DJ Lucca Gotti and Eisi followed by DJ Maggi Tjarnarbíó, Tjarnargata 12, November 18 PRIKIÐ HRESSÓ NASA Nyhil Poetry Festival STÚDENTAKJALLARINN DJ Rósa and DJ Benni DJ Fúsi DJ Fúsi KAFFIBARINN AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM Sálin in concert NASA Shadow Parade release concert TJARNARBÍÓ Sunday – 26 November Saturday – 4 November Lada Sport, Retro Stefson, Bertel, Sud- den Weather Change, Hello Norbert and DJ Gulli Ósóma Soffía Karlsdóttir release concert Tonik in concert Wednesday – 22 November IÐNÓ BAR 11 TJARNARBÍÓ Don Balli Funk Pub-lic in concert followed by DJ Maggi DJ Kevin Costner and DJ Gísli Galdur KAFFIBARINN Wednesday – 29 November HRESSÓ PRIKIÐ DJ Playmobile The Talent a.k.a Maggi Legó Brian Jonestown Massacre in concert Sviss in concert PRIKIÐ NASA KAFFIBARINN AMSTERDAM DJ Símon The Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Thursday – 23 November Thursday – 30 November VEGAMÓT Filmconcert HÁSKÓLABÍÓ DJ Tommy White De la Rosa and DJ Danni Deluxe The Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Don KAFFIBARINN Juan and Don Giovanni Sufjan Stevens PRIKIÐ More ambitious a musician in the folk scene than Sufjan Stevens would be hard, Helgi Valur troubadour HÁSKÓLABÍÓ HRESSÓ Erik Qvick if not impossible, to track down, especially regarding his promise about releas- DJ Fúsi ing an album on each of the states in America. With two done and 48 to go he is DOMO BAR A.S.A Trio AMSTERDAM slightly turning away from the project in the media, but his ambition and incred- DOMO BAR Petter Winnberg Wednesday – 15 November The Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Oper- Petter Winnberg is probably best known in Iceland as the groovin’ bass player of late ible creativity is only on the rise. Seeing that his former albums not only include up Papar in concert aconcert Steinunn and Silja reggae band Hjálmar. Returning to Iceland this month as a solo artist, accompanied to 20 and 30 songs each, but have been released almost yearly since 2000, he’s like NASA by a band of three, he will be presenting his new project, entitled Easily Tricked, at an unstoppable music machine. Thankfully for Icelanders, Stevens is taking some Don Balli Funk HÁSKÓLABÍÓ KAFFIBARINN KAFFIBARINN Sirkus, November 17th. The album, which will see its release with Icelandic record time off from the studio to play two shows in Reykjavík this month. Stevens him- Troubadours Snorri and Siggi Grétars Idol-Alexander and Örvar company Pineapplerecords next year, is described as pure and honest R&B music. self chose the small venue Fríkirkjan for the concert so the few available tickets, Tuesday – 7 November considering his rising popularity in Iceland, sold out in a manner of minutes. DJ Anna Brá HRESSÓ HRESSÓ The concert is part of the record company’s monthly concert series at Sirkus, aimed PRIKIÐ to raise awareness of Sirkus’s planned demolition next year. Those lucky ones are in for a night to remember. Accompanied by guitarist DJ Vala DJ Maggi Legó DJ Maggi Legó Following Winnberg’s performance will be Gusgus member and Pineapplere- Rob Moose, Stevens’s incredible songwriting, and instrumental mixture will be KAFFIBARINN PRIKIÐ PRIKIÐ cords owner, DJ President Bongo, keeping the party going until morning. perfectly suited for the church’s atmosphere. Thursday – 16 November MUSIC Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30, November 17 Fríkirkjan, Laufásvegur 13, November 17 and 18. (Sold Out)

The Iceland Symphony Orchestra: Mo- Wednesday – 8 November zart in Salzburg HÁSKÓLABÍÓ Don Balli Funk Akureyri Theatrical Iceland Dance Company By Michael Druker Hvít kanína KAFFIBARINN Eiríkur Orri quintet Company Listabraut 3 Icelandic Academy of the Arts Student DOMO BAR A Girl’s Night Out with DJ Maggi Legó Hafnarstræti 57, 600 Akureyri Tel: 588 0900 Sumardagur Theatre Jon Fosse PRIKIÐ Tel: 460 0200 www.id.is DJ Stef Manntafl PRIKIÐ Current shows: Family performance all Saturdays in Skoppa og Skrítla By Stefan Zweig Karius and Baktus November By Hrefna Hallgrímsdóttir Thursday – 9 November Troubadours Snorri and Siggi Grétars By Thorbjörn Egner Alveg brilljant skilnaður HRESSÓ B3 in concert Icelandic Opera Sitji Guðs Englar By Edda Björgvinsdóttir DOMO BAR Mr Kolbert Ingólfsstræti By Guðrún Helgadóttir MEIN KAMPF Friday – 17 November By David Gieselman Tel: 511 6400 DJ Maggi Legó Visit www.leikfelag.is for full schedule Visit www.opera.is for full schedule and The Reykjavík City Theatre By George Tabori. KAFFIBARINN and tickets. tickets. Listabraut 3 Franz and Kristó followed by a ultra Tel: 568 8000 Rétta leiðin mega funk fusion with DJ Gísli Galdur, Shadow Play Visit www.borgarleikhus.is for full schedule By Erla Ruth Harðardóttir DJ Símon Addi the Drummer and bassist Guðni Austurbær Snorrabraut 37, 105 Reykjavík By Karólína Eiríksdóttir and Sjón. and tickets. VEGAMÓT PRIKIÐ Tel: 551 4700 Premiered November 18 Dogma Current shows: Borgarleikhúsið Dogma-group Jón Tryggvi acoustic concert and DJ DJ Palli Current shows: The National Theatre Amadeus Playmobile BAR 11 PRIKIÐ Danny and the Deep Blue Sea Hverfisgata 19 By Peter Shaffer Iðnó By John Patrick Shanley Tel: 551 1200 Vonarstræti 3 Sykurmolarnir (Sugarcubes) in concert Visit www.leikhusid.is for full schedule and Footloose Tel: 562 9700 Idol-Alexander and Örvar LAUGARDALSHÖLLIN HRESSÓ Broadway tickets By Þorvaldur Bjarni Current shows: Sufjan Stevens in concert Ármúla 9 Tel: 533 1110 Current shows: Ronja Ræningjadóttir Best í Heimi FRÍKIRKJAN Friday – 10 November WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS www.broadway.is Stórfengleg! By Astrid Lindgren By Hávar Sigurjónsson and María By Peter Quilter Reyndal Jeff Buckley Tribute Viltu finna milljón MUSIC theatre Tina Turner tribute show with Sigga DJ Gulli Ósóma IÐNÓ NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS Beinteins Patrekur 1,5 By Ray Cooney CAFÉ RESTAURANTS MUSEUMS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Café Victor 22 Pravda 25 Ölstofan 28 Kaffibrennslan 31 34 Argentína 37 Tapas 44 Bæjarins Bestu Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstræti 9 Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata f]logjc Krua Thai Árbæjarsafn Laugavegur 118 A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Spelled with a C rather than the Icelandic Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfortable Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever Tryggvagata 14 Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine Those with a bit of money and time on A veritable institution in central Reykja- Árbær terranean, as all traditional coffee shops K, presumably in an effort to seem more downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of and straightforward place to relax. It’s also you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a dining steak house. For whale-etarians, their hands would do well to spend an vík, and probably the most consistently www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Roma, at the far end of the main street This authentic Thai restaurant is one of should be, and this place makes you feel cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to be work- the more ideal locations for such an insti- known as a hangout for the ‘intellectual’ consistently pleasant place to go for snacks you can also sample the local Minke, or evening or two at Tapas, having course successful business the city has seen, Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house the better bargains in town. We challenge warm, both with its atmosphere and the ing, as the bar has become a hangout for tution in the city. It’s divided between two circles of Reykjavík, as well as some media and refreshments of whatever variety you excellent fish. This restaurant has main- after course of wonderful miniature dishes Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple The Culture House offering a variety of breads, soup and you to find a better meal for the same generosity of the coffee refills. older foreigners. The Viking ship sitting floors, although the distinction between types, the opposite of ‘intellectual’ in this happen to crave. They also have the largest tained its reputation with three things: served to them. Oddly, it’s also a great hot dog stand. Their menu consists of hot Hverfisgata 15 tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet price anywhere else. They have their menu on top of the building might also add to the ambiance on the top and bottom floors country. Music is almost never played selection of beers in Reykjavík. We recom- perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, and place to get tasty and affordable lobster. dogs and Coke – and nothing else. You www.thjodmenning.is things. Their specials around lunch time outside with numbered colour images. Just the appeal. The crowd is very mixed, both has faded away in recent times. at Ölstofan – so you can actually have a mend the Cobra and Staroprammen. an excellent wine list. If you don’t feel like getting up right away don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask them to are always a bargain. say the number and eat the food. in origin and age, and so is the music. conversation. afterwards, there’s also a lounge. make you one with everything. Reykjavík Electrical Museum Refstöðvarvegur www.rafheimar.is

2 Ráðhúskaffi 9 Kaffitár 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Thorvaldsen 29 Glaumbar 32 Tveir Fiskar 35 Vín og Skel 38 Sægreifinn 45 Subway City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 Tryggvagata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata Austurstræti Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykjavík This is the downtown store of one of the Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The trendy Café Cultura is located in the This place is fancy, and it knows it. Civil- Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fiskar If you like fresh seafood and are in the Places recommended for their local touch You know exactly what you get when you City Hall, is a comfortable choice for the country’s finest coffee importers, and the lunch menu, they serve brunch during the same building as the Intercultural Centre, ian attire is looked down upon, so don’t popular venue for live bands and DJs, but boasts some of the freshest fish in town mood for something a little different, this tend to instantly loses any element of the walk into a Subway restaurant, and their view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s espe- quality of the product is as excellent as weekends, and the kitchen is open until and has a distinct international flavour. expect to get in wearing hiking boots. DJs mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk – they prefer it to still be moving when cosy but ambitious restaurant just might exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is sub sandwiches are always made from cially convenient on Iceland’s so-called you would expect. While anything here is 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes on, A good-value menu, friendly service and play on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. and party. They can host private gather- they buy it. Their menu also dares to be fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, squid, lobster an exception. It’s a combination of a fish fresh ingredients – right in front of your ‘window weather’ days – the days that are good, the speciality coffee drinks are truly and you can check the end results in pho- settings that allow you to either sit down Arrive before 12 if you want to avoid the ings before midnight on weekdays, and different, and this just might be your only and other creatures of the deep predomi- store and a... well, not exactly a restaurant eyes. Reasonably priced and far healthier only beautiful if you stay indoors. Coffee, remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, an tos published the day after on their web- and carry on discussions, or dance the queue. you would be hard pressed to get a better chance to sample the debatable delights of nate the menu here. There is no smoking but a place that serves prepared food, than most alternatives – provided you light snacks, art exhibitions, Internet ac- espresso drink with lime and Tabasco. site www.vegamot.is. If you like Oliver, try night away. deal on a keg party than here. raw dolphin. in the restaurant, but if you want to have a located in a harbour warehouse. Smell of show some restraint when you order. cess, a topographic model of Iceland and Vegamót and vice versa. go at sitting outside there are fleece blan- fish, the view over the harbour, an old man municipal politics: all conveniently under kets provided. that looks exactly like an Icelandic fisher- the same roof. man should. What’s not to love?

3 Grái Kötturinn 10 Segafredo 17 B5 39 Shalimar 46 Nonnabiti DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 Babalú Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to be B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus on 41 Prides itself on being the northernmost Almost certainly the best junk food in the place that’s especially popular during the doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, with the menu. Don’t be fooled by the impres- SPOTthis Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world. Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely morning hours. Their breakfast is legend- locals and tourists alike flocking to sip sive collection of design classics that you Hafnarstræti 44 Their cooks know exactly what they are popular with drunken youths on week- ary, but they tend not to be open later in their espressos at the conveniently placed see in the window when passing by – it’s 33 doing with the spices and as a result we ends. This place has none of that Subway the day. A great place to nurse a hangover, tables outside. The staff are expert baristi, neither cold nor overly expensive, but 45 have given them two glowing reviews and commitment to healthy living, and they or just to start the workday. and, even though Iceland is proud of its rather a cosy place with friendly service. Austurstræti 46 42 a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in the probably contribute significantly to the coffee, nobody quite tops the Segafredo 39 10 past. You can still see the latter article ever-increasing “size” of the nation. They latte. 26 hanging in their window – and we stand also serve burgers and sandwiches, and 6 by it. have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankas17 Ingólfsstræti 43 træ BARS 'N' BISTROS ti 11 3 4 Kaffi Hljómalind 11 18 Rósenberg 23 40 Við tjörnina 47 Hamborgarabúlla Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 Tómasar (Búllan) Hverfisgata Despite hosting the occasional rock con- Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club in 24 20 If you’re looking for high-quality food in a Geirsgata 1 Laugavegur19 cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Sat- town, here old instruments line the walls. unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get much with perfect windows for people watching People go there for conversation and to 5 14 better than Við Tjörnina (literally, By the Tómas originally popularised the ham- urday nights, but during the daytime it’s burger in Iceland when he opened his and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a non- a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a listen to music rather than dance. The Pond). They’re known for their traditional Skólavörðustígur famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple of profit organisation and only serves organic restaurant with a decent menu as well, and place tends to have jazz- or blues-type 13 living room décor and innovative fish tígur 8 & fair-trade products. It’s strictly a non- music, and is developing a bluegrass scene. 16 dishes made from a variety of fresh catch- decades and business ventures later he has an art exhibition on the walls to finish the gone back to the basics and now has one smoking establishment. package. Probably the cosiest coffeehouse in town, Babalú 25 es. The ambiance is something you have to Babalú is a genuine haven in the city Skólavörðustígur 22a 48 experience to truly appreciate. of the most popular fast food restaurants downtown – affectionately known as Búl- centre. Antique furniture, chaotic kitchen Tel: 552 2278 Klappars and shelves full of books to browse through 30 lan (the joint). while waiting for your espresso.

FAST FOOD 5 Mokka 12 Litli Ljóti 19 Grand Rokk 38 47 41 48 First Vegetarian Skólavörðustígur 3a Andarunginn Smiðjustígur 6 32 American Style (Á næstu grösum) Lækjargata 6b Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés As the Viking-style garden and logo accu- Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20b in Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s. Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, rately signal, this hardcore chess hangout 31 Famous for their burgers and fries, One of the first places in Reykjavík to Famous for their dark, smoky atmosphere, this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine is no place for the weak. Yes, chess bars are American Style actually serves a variety of specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes. loyal clientele and some of the best waffles place to sit down and relax with a latté or that tough in Iceland. Even if the down- 29 37 American-influenced dishes with a strong Despite having changed owners a couple in town. some beer when suffering from a case of stairs atmosphere can feel a bit ominous 27 local flavour. You get the feeling that you of years back, the quality has remained severe hipster-burn. at times, it’s one of the best venues for live 15 music in town. If you speak Icelandic you Austurstræti are expected to eat a great deal, so loosen consistent and you almost get the feeling can also take part in the pub quiz on Fri- your belt a bit before you dig in. that the place is being run on sheer prin- days at 17:30. Participation is free and the Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti ciple as much as anything else. winner walks away with a case of beer! ti Hverfisgata 40 12 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 6 Ömmukaffi 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 35 42 Pizza King 49 Kebabhúsið Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 4 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 Tjarnargata 34 The name literally means “grandma’s cof- Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hangout While the place is only open on the Most people get to know Pizza King after Some of the best fish and chips in town fee shop,” but here you can find people for artists and others who think they are weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar Þingholtsstræti 7 a late-night drinking session leaves them can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they ob- of all ages and all nationalities. It has a hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve as on Laugavegur and one of the main late- Bergstaðastræti tired and hungry downtown, and it truly viously have a selection of kebabs as well. very friendly, down-to-earth feel to it. the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, while night party venues in town. You’ll feel the Frakkastígur is a lifesaver in those situations. The dif- The falafel comes recommended, despite Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and the weekdays and afternoons can be comfort- floor jumping every Friday and Saturday, Óðinsgata ference between Pizza King and some less being a relatively unappreciated menu lunch menu. Try their speciality, the South able, if banal. and it’s neither you nor an earthquake. 1 savoury fast food options downtown is item in Iceland, and the beef and lamb African latte. Live concerts and a nice foosball table that you would be happy to go back to eat pitas are quite good as well. upstairs. there while sober, and their special lunch offers make that a very attractive option. Barónsstígur

7 Babalú 14 Sirkus 21 Hressingarskálinn 24 Prikið 27 Kaffi Amsterdam 30 Dillon 33 Hornið 36 Tjarnarbakkinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Vitabar Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 One of the youngest coffeehouses in Of absolutely no relation to the trashy The celebrated site of one of the more Prikið has changed noticeably in char- Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern located Legendary Icelandic rockers have been Means “the corner” and the place lives up Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its ham- Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like culture guide, or trashy TV station that famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ acter in recent years, as it used to be an in the centre of Reykjavik. Known mostly known to DJ at this place from time to to its name by… well, being on a corner. theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go before in 1834. If you are particular about your burgers. A burger with fries for 500 is one a living room away from home, Babalú stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like café/bistro brings a European flair to the old-fashioned and traditional downtown for its rambling late-hour drinking crowd, time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even This is actually the oldest Italian restau- shows, or during if you prefer a more quiet bread this is about the best place in cen- of the best meal deals in town, but special keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with coffee few other locales in Iceland. Elements of city. That is until about 11, when things coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd Amsterdam recently established itself as a tended the bar. You can pretty much guar- rant in town, celebrating its 27th year, and atmosphere. If you sit by the window tral Reykjavík to stock up on a variety mention must go to the Forget-Me-Not and the occasional crêpe. the odd and alternative cultural institu- get to rockin’, and you can see the true caught on and transformed the place to its fresh new venue for the city’s music talent. antee this place will be rocking any time it always seems to be consistently popular. you get nice view of the pond, and in the of freshly baked loaves – they also do a blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. tion include an upstairs that looks and character of Reykjavík. present form: a diner during the day and you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night. Excellent quality pizza, pasta and salads – summers you can enjoy your meal outside. particularly moist and juicy version of the smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market a rowdy nightclub on weekends. You can all priced affordably. The lamb comes especially recommended; ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. You can and a queue on weekend nights that looks also borrow board games there, such as it’s one of those rare traditional Icelandic even call ahead and have your favourite WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS never-ending. backgammon or chess, and it is a popular dishes that aren’t an acquired taste. items reserved, if you’re afraid someone breakfast spot early in the morning. else might beat you to that last snúður or kleina.

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE Discover THE ORIGINAL EASTERN TASTE IN THE WEST AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel: 551 0292 www.shalimar.is The Grapevine lists exhibitions from galler- between two worlds Admission ticket is valid on the same day Tue.-Sun. 14-17 RADIO TV ies throughout Iceland. If you would like to be for all three museums. included, free of charge, contact the Grapevine by Gyllinhæð www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Permanent exhibition of the work of Rás 1 is in full swing at the moment, mocking Tekinn email at [email protected]. Big Love Laugavegur 23 sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Government radio station often featur- Mormon society in the suburbs of Salt British society and insulting whoever Our Icelandic Ashton Kutcher, Auðunn Compiled by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Reykjavík Art Museum thinks the show is far too offensive to ing talk shows, radio soap operas, and Lake City is the setting for HBO’s com- Blöndal, takes on the Icelandic elite in the – Hafnarhús Unglist Festival deserve the slightest squeak. But we love Punk’d replica Tekinn on Sirkus TV. With traditional music. edy series Big Love on Stöð 2. The ideal 101 Gallery Students from the second year of the Tryggvagata 17 Unglist, the annual youth art and culture it. High quality British sketch comedy barely a need to explain the plot, with the citizen and successful businessman Bill Hverfisgata 18 Academy Open daily 10-17 festival, will take place at various venues and Matt Lucas and David Williams help of a hidden camera and some bystand- Rás 2 Henrickson is living a life of polygamy. Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment around Reykjavík from November 3rd are better now than ever. As politically ers, Blöndal mocks local celebs. They get More progressive government radio sta- Married to three women, father of seven www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Hún og Hún Gallery 10 Jun 2006 – 07 Jan 2007 to 11th. The diverse schedule consists of children with the task of supporting three incorrect as one show can be, the third irritated and he laughs hysterically. In the tion, featuring a variety of music as well as Skólavörðustígur 17b The Erró Collection: Graphic Works concerts, performances, exhibitions, an season features the same surreal char- end everyone laughs hysterically. Although news discussion programmes. different households, his life could be Oct 29 – Nov 24 NEW art marathon and everything in between, pretty damn good if it weren’t for all the acters as viewers have grown to adore, highly unoriginal and mostly irritating to Sigrún Inga Hrólfsdóttir exhibition 21 Oct – 17 Nov NEW Reykjavík Art Museum organised by the young contributors like the ultra-gay Daffyd Thomas, the TV viewers who are reminded once again Bylgjan (98.9 FM) complications, dilemmas, jealousy and Same time, another place – Kjarvalsstaðir themselves with help from Hitt Húsið, a ridiculously looking transvestites, handi- how sterile, unimaginative and cheap Light pop music. emotional demands Henrickson constant- Aurum Flókagata culture and information centre for young capped Andy and his ever-caring and local programming tends to be, revolving Sorin Dan Cojocaru art exhibition ly must deal with. While trying to fulfil Bankastræti 4 Open daily 10-17 people located at Pósthússtræti 3-5. patient friend Lou, Mr. Mann and his around commercial sponsorship and low- Útvarp Saga (99.4 FM) his wives’ needs he struggles to make ends Mon. – Fri. 10-18 i8 Gallery For more info visit www.unglist.is. meet at the same time while keeping his impossible demands at Roy’s shop, plus budget fixings, not to be all negative, the Sat. 11-16 Iceland’s oldies station, featuring both Ice- Klapparstígur 33 08 Apr – 03 Dec lifestyle a secret in the Mormon society. some new twisted and ironic characters. show has its moments, if not only Blöndal’s landic and foreign music from decades past. Tue.-Fri. 11-17 Let’s Look at Art: A series of exhibitions The show has stirred things up among Brilliant humour. new Kutcher-style cap. The Einar Jónsson Museum Sat. and by appointment 13-17 especially designed for children >>>OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK many Mormons, who aren’t pleased with Eiríksgata Talstöðin (90.9 FM) www.i8.is Talk radio station, in Icelandic. making polygamy a subject of entertain- Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Reykjavík Museum Hveragerði: ment. Pointing out the perversions and www.skulptur.is 21 Oct – 25 Now NEW Kistuhylur 4 old stereotypical ideas about the religion Létt 96.7 (96.7 FM) Snjóbretti og hjálmar/ Snowboards and www.arbaejarsafn.is Hveragerði Library that the show reveals, the Mormons Permanent exhibition of the work of Office pop, easy listening. Helmets emphasise their modern-day distance sculptor Einar Jónsson Katrín Pétursdóttir Young The Reykjavík Museum of 23 Oct – 9 Nov NEW FM 957 (95.7 FM) from polygamy and claim to be concerned Photography Rúna K. Trezschner exhibition about the illegal practice of polygamy in One of the “hnakkistöðvar,” playing pop- The Culture House Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor some communities. Whether the discon- Icelandic Labour Union’s rock geared towards urban clubbing youth. Hverfisgata 15 Weekdays 12-19 Seyðisfjörður: tent has been good publicity for the show Art Gallery Open daily 11-17 Sat.-Sun. 13-17 or not, its creators are at least working on Freyjugata 41 XFM (91.9FM) www.thjodmenning.is Free Entrance Skaftfell season two. Tue.-Sun. 13-17 Iceland’s rock station, often playing cut- Free Entrance www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is www.skaftfell.is 29 June 2006 – 27 Feb 2007 ting-edge releases. Little Britain Icelandic Fashion 2006 30 Sep – 19 Nov Hafnarfjörður: No need for introduction, but always Kling & Bang Gallery Lindin (102.9 FM) Laugavegur 23 POLSKA 1969-1989 - Poland under a reason for a reminder. For those who Permanent Exhibits Christian broadcasting station, available all Thur - Sun 14-18 communism Hafnarborg tv & RADIO tend to forget all the great episodes on Medieval Manuscripts; The National over the country. Free Entrance Chris Niedenthal Mon.-Sun. 11-17 RUV, the third season of Little Britain Museum- as it was; The Library Room www.this.is/klingandbang 28 Sept – 22 Nov Keflavík: Dwarf Gallery 14 Nov – 10 Dec Golli photo exhibit Grundarstígur 21 Helga Óskarsdóttir and Kristinn Már Suðsuðvestur Opening Hours Vary Pálmason Safn Hafnargata 22 Casino Royale Borat this.is/birta Laugavegur 37 Thu.-Fri. 16-18 With Daniel Craig starring as the 007 Although some may think that Sacha Gallery 100 Degrees Living Art Museum Wed.-Fri. 14-18 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Laugavegur 26 Sat.-Sun. 14- 17 www.sudsudvestur.is spy in the secret intelligence service, Baron Cohen’s creation of the lov- Bæjarháls 1 Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Free Entrance Casino Royale is the 21st James Bond able Kazakhstan TV reporter Borat Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Thur 13-22 www.safn.is Akureyri: flick. Based on Ian Fleming’s first Sagdiyev is beyond all limits of decency, www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 novel about the secret agent, this one his popularity grows like wildfire. www.nylo.is/ Until Nov 30 DaLí gallerí takes the audience back to the begin- Absolutely nothing is sacred in Borat’s Gallerí Anima The National Gallery Ping Pong Dance Brekkugata 9 ning, when young Bond is first taking sarcastic comments about own home Ingólfsstræti 8 Fríkirkjuvegur Egill Sæbjörnsson installation Mon.-Sat. 14-18 on the task of becoming a 00-agent. To country and his hilarious behaviour has Tues.-Sat. 13-17 Tue.-Sun. 11-17 stop his enemies, a terrorist organisa- caused a great conflict with Kazakh www.animagalleri.is tion planning world domination, his authorities. All helping with the PR of Free Entrance Nov 18 – Dec2006 Gallerí + mission takes him to La Casino Royale course. The movie follows his jour- listasafn.is Surrogate Brekkugata 35 03 Oct – 04 Nov Hildur Bjarnadóttir exhibition in Montenegro where he must win a ney from Kazakhstan to America and Hjörtur Hjartarsson nerve-racking poker game while the manages to shine a whole new light on Oct 7 – Nov 26 Jónas Viðar Gallery new Bond chick, played by Eva Green, the American nation. Undoubtedly the Gallery Fold Málverkið eftir 1980/Icelandic Painting Works Fri.-Sat. 13-18 occupies much of his attention. Di- most controversial comic of last years, after 1980 Tilo Baumgärtel and Martin Kobe exhibi- Rauðarárstígur 14-16 rected by Martin Campbell, the movie Borat: Cultural Learnings of America tion Akureyri Art Museum Mon.-Fri. 10-18 will be in theatres November 17. for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of The National Museum Kaupvangsstræti 12 Sat. 11-16 Kazakhstan, premieres November 3. Suðurgata 41 16 Sept – 05 Nov Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Sun. 14-16 Open daily 10-17 Tilo Baumgärtel & Martin Kobe listasafn.akureyri.is www.myndlist.is natmus.is/English reckless young hothead played by Ashton lends his voice to some Icelandic Vikings. Sigurjón Ólafsson Mu- 28 Oct – 17 Dec NEW The Devil Wears Prada Mýrin Oct 28 – Nov 12 NEW Kutcher. Kringlubíó, Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Supposed to be quite hilarious. 30 Sep – 26 Nov seum Dröfn Friðfinnsdóttir retrospective In which a naïve young country girl tack- Director Baltasar Kormákur and a team Málverk/Painting Álfabakka Ókunn sjónarhorn/Unknown perspective Laugarnestangi 70 les an über-bitch magazine editor played of Iceland’s finest actors in a thriller Einar Hákonarson exhibit by Meryl Streep. It’s nice to have you based on Arnaldur Indriðason best-seller Children of Men & Myndir úr lífi mínu/Images from a life back, Meryl. Smárabíó, Regnboginn The Thief Lord Mýrin. With Ingvar E. Sigurðsson taking This Alfonso Cuarón adaptation of a P.D. Gallerí Sævars Karls A German English-language production on the role of a middle-aged detective, it James novel is set in 2027… where no one Temporary Exhibitions: Bankastræti 7 based on Cornelia Funke’s fantasy novel. has been highly praised as one of the best can have children! Supposedly manages to Photography from Iceland, 1938 The Departed www.saevarkarl.is Supposed to be Martin Scorsese’s best Supposedly avoids the trappings of the Icelandic movies ever made. Smárabíó, be both apocalyptic and entertaining. Invisible women in Icelandic art Mon.-Fri. 10-18 www.gljufrasteinn.is colonies’ family adventure movies. Regnboginn, Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó, Archaeological research and Iceland’s film since Goodfellas. Starring Leonardo Sat. 10-16 DiCaprio, Matt Damon, Jack Nicholson Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin Akureyri Selfossbíó, Háskólabíó, Sambíóin Keflavík The Last Kiss new view of history and Mark Wahlberg it’s a violent gangster Zach Braff is facing the I’m-turning- Gallery Turpentine Permanent Exhibitions: drama no one should miss. Kringlubíó, World Trade Center Half Light thirty-and-haven’t-lived-yet crisis and not Ingólfsstræti 5 The Making of a Nation Háskólabíó Oliver Stone is responsible for this non- Demi Moore plays a novelist who moves willing to grow up just yet, starts doubt- Tue.-Fri. 12-18 conspiracy theory take on the events of to a small cottage to deal with life after ing all decisions he’s made in the past. Sat. 11-16 Fearless September 11. Allegedly tasteful and losing her son. No less tragic are the days Sound familiar? www.turpentine.is The Nordic House Starring Jet Li as the legendary martial moving. Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sambíóin to come. Sambíóin Álfabakka Sturlugata 5 artist Huo Yuanjia in an action movie, Keflavík Gel Gallerí Tue.-Sun. 12-17 www.nordice.is/english taking place in 20th century China. Reg- Night at the museum Hverfisgata 37 nboginn, Smárabíó The Wild A comedy involving a museum guard Visit www.kvikmyndir.is for regularly Mon.-Fri. 10-19 You know the score by now: CGI-based played by Ben Stiller who wakes up a Næsti Bar updates on new films and showtimes. Sat. 10-17 Texas Chainsaw Massacre: action comedy featuring some lovable lot of creatures one night. Our Icelandic Ingólfsstræti 1a The Beginning shiny animals, celebrity voice talent and Robbie Rotten Stefán Karl Stefánsson Gerðuberg William Shatner. Probably very amusing. 14 Oct – 11 Nov The origins of THE CHAINSAW Cultural Centre Sambíóin Álfabakka Undir meðvitund / Beneath Conscious- MASSACRE are explored in this Regnboginn Háskólabíó Laugarásbíó Gerðuberg 3-5 Hverfisgata 54 Hagatorgi Laugarási ness shockfest gorestravaganza. Laugarásbíó, Mon.-Thu. 11-17 101 Reykjavík 107 Reykjavík 104 Reykjavík Bjarni Helgason art exhibition Borgarbíó Step Up Wed. 11-21 Tel. 551-9000 Tel. 525-5400 Tel. 565-0118 Some dancers dance around a lot. Should Thur.-Fri. 11-17 Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : Beerfest be awesome, if you’re into that whole Sun-Sat. 13-16 scene. Sambíóin Álfabakka Sambíóin Kringlubíó Sambíóin Akureyri www.gerduberg.is The Settlement Exhibition Another half-witted comedy from Super Álfabakka 8 Kringlunni 4-12 Ráðhústorgi Aðalstræti 16 Troopers director. Now there’s beer. In 109 Reykjavík 103 Reykjavík 600 Akureyri 23 Sep – 12 Nov Open daily 10-17 Germany. And a group of nerdy Ameri- Flyboys Tel. 575-8900 Tel. 575-8900 Tel. 461-4666 Reykjavík – Úr launsátri / Reykjavík cans are gulping it. Selfossbíó, Kringlubíó Bombed up airplanes, dramatic love Reykjavík Art Museum scenes and heroic young Americans – From an Ambush – Ásmundur Sveinsson caught in a WWI battle, even though Smárabíó Selfossbíó Nýja-Bíó Ari Sigvaldason photo exhibit WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS The Guardian Sculpture Museum all they wanted was to learn how to fly. Smáralind Eyrarvegur 2 Hafnargata 33 ART FILM Kevin Costner is back! This time, he’s 201 Kópavogur 800 Selfoss 230 Reykjanesbær 23 Sep – 12 Nov Sigtún Clichés guaranteed. NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS serving in the Coast Guard alongside a Tel. 564-0000 Tel. 482-3007 Tel. 421-1170 African souvenirs in Iceland: Dialogue Open daily 10-16 art Kaffi old religion folklore andandexperience ancientinhaling traditions. tooktion place of at Ásatrúarfélagið that same spot. The exhibition thereforecan tobe a good opportunity The reason the old coffeehouse was pickedMokka as a showroom meeting on is the that formathe first Nordic in folklore andreligion blackexpressed pagan and white photographs shot Gunnarsson year. this (goðar) in The Icelandic Pagan andchieftains Association oftheir beliefs in the Iceland (Ásatrúarfélagið) the works ofresident Entitled Gunnarsson. young Íslands” “Goðar Ísafjörður the Sigurður subjects are One of the oldest coffeehousescentre city nowin Reykjavík offers its customers a photo exhibition of I R be on displayprojects, will atand paintings as as well the installations museum for months. the three next around the world, is a unique presentation of and consistsyoung and artists ofemerging American more works120 than by different 40 contributors. Examples of film video art, in thecentre city as last month’s Sequenceproved festival to by be. Obrist, B.Organised Daniel Birnbaum, the Gunnar Kvaran andexhibition, which isHans Ulrich now going The opening Museumof should Art at exhibition StatesbeUncertain Reykjavík a in ofMillennium goodthe Third continuation –Art America American party of previous arty A eykjavík celandic Goðar at Kaffi merican Creativity at M okka (Skólavörðustígur 3a). A rt M useum (Tryggvagata 17). O n display until O pen daily 10-17. R D eykjavík ecember 6, 2006. M okka O n display until January 21, 2007. A rt M useum - i8 Gallery (Klapparstígur 33). explains. accidental and created by intuition rather reasoning,” than she her to workherdraw thoughts: as “Mytrying works are almost and fashion. design, evidentart sports, Youngbetween describes Her works relate to the connection andshe boundaries finds in herintermix project of snowboard prints as becan seen above. morphology nature, animation, and fantasy interest in figures, last month Her as ofafestival. part art the Sequences visual Young’s Pétursdóttir Katrín exhibition Snowboards opened up Snowboard Prints O pen until November 25, 2006. company) Sjóvá and [got sponsorship for] for] sponsorship [got and Sjóvá company) insurance (the with deal publishing a made I when started this All business. their of care take to companies creating are example, for Gang Bang in Barði musicians, other while manner, same the exactly in concert reunion anniversary 20th their branding are cubes Sugar the Now matters. certain in Iceland in trails new blazing am I again once that now see can I But not. or it sponsored bank a if matter No day. that shown was I honour the shown been ever has musician Icelandic other no think I and good, very was concert the thought I concert. anniversary) (50th the Like skewed. find I that stuff other and about thrilled not am I that book this in stuff is There way. the All Absolutely. – story? your present to freedom artistic complete Atli Jón gave you So /// of something personal in their lives or if it is is it if or lives their in personal something of because is that whether well, feeling not are down? him take to want wouldn’t Who Champ? the at shot a get to want wouldn’t Who boxing. like It’s imagine. can they target biggest the probably am I target. good pretty a am I then and discontent, their express to drive the have they time, same the at but unhappy, are they lives, their in place bad in are people these that is lines the between read I What dindill.is. – day other the across came I site web some example, another is Eldon Sindri journalist) Grapevine (former example, one is Gunnarsson Valur editor) Grapevine (Former there. you keep and category this box, this in stay to you want just They grow. you that accept to able be to seem doesn’t that society this in people of group a is there Amazingly, person?” arrogant and angry unhappy, this is Who “Wow! thought: just I them, of some Reading Internet. the on me with back… look I when Sometimes man. burned, and crashed just I them of Some flights. many been It’s – transits? and layovers many had you have or flight, continuous one been this Has /// me. for life in chapter new a is This tower. the hear to starting am I where life my in place a at am I and life, is This land. will I lucky, am I If gear. landing the down put to told be will I soon and away far not is matters. spiritual about thinking and exercising right, sleeping right, eating on focusing started I when me for chapter new a of beginning the was It person. different a was I ’96, From mostly. me in demons; of sorts all battling and lost was I me. for yssey od an like was ’96 to ’80 From divided. is it present, to 1980 from period the Then then. back like was I what to close damn pretty is character The well. really captures he period that 1980, until begins, story the when 1972, year the From person. different completely a was I ago, years Seven body. our in cell every renew we period, seven-year a Over change. we that soon realised I anymore. Not No. – me? before sitting one the than Bubbi different a ing describ Atli Jón Is Bubbi.” “this Yousay /// done. well pretty is Bubbi this of Ballad the think I But that. like blanche carte a people give to bravery certain need you this, do him let to decision, right the made I think I But myself. like lot a probably ambiguous, and entertaining uncomfortable, corrected. be to needed that errors factual major some there unless fit, saw he as this write to freedom the him give would I that beginning the at decision the made I But, him. attacking of part a be wouldn’t I that and mine, of friend a about writing was he that Told him it. stopped have could I book, the of chapter one in him attacks Atli Jón and mine of friend good a is Ármannsson Bjarni Bank) Glitnir of (CEO all. at it with agree don’t I and view, of point his is this But doing. is he what understand I it. wrote Atli me. near that like company a let never would I body. dead my Over me. sponsoring Alcan, say, or, company beer a were it if line clear a draw however, would, I way. this things doing with wrong anything see don’t I arts. in renaissance new the is this Maybe concert. anniversary the But I can see in their writing that they they that writing their in see can I But interviews old some reviewed I Recently, runway The now. fully ascended have I was book the day, the of end the At Jón way the with happy very was I But - - - - stand the criticism when people say that you you that say people when criticism the stand under you Do view? of point their from anything see not you Do heart? to take you that criticism their in nothing there Is /// out. shit their work they hope and shrug, to is do can I all But them. in myself see can I because people, these understand I and this, did I shit. of lot a through get can you that, through get you If life. for you ruin will it strong, not are you if and lucky not are you if childhood, in shit through go you When issues. personal my resolve to begun hadn’t and drugs on possible a hard as myself drove I when life my in time that was powerful, most the productive, most the was I think to seems people of group this where life my in period the Myself, addiction. drug and alcoholism ple arecompletelystuckintheirownprejudice. you andyourcrew!Thisisajokeshowshowpeo narblus fortherestofmylife.Fuckyou!You know, Fuck The OldBubbi,thatisthedemandImakeIsbjar fucked upandtheyareexperiencinghell. and ing up.Butthereareyoungpeoplewhoangry have norelevanceforthem,fine,thatisapartofgrow is anoceanbetweenthem.Young peoplewhosayI andthere people, andthenthereareyoungangry, What Iamsayingisthatthereareyoungandangry powers? financial the to out sold have Denmark, I would have sold around 40 mil 40 around sold have would I Denmark, In example. for Denmark in proportionally me behind numbers sales of kind same the had I if over times many multi-millionaire a be would I company. insurance an with deal a make to had have not would I Iceland, in than else anywhere lived had I If life. for signed him keep to interest own its in is it decides company record a that big so comes be artist an that rare very is It out? them spit and up them chew bone, the to artists its milk to tries that machine a than other company record a is What that. like all is It – company. capitalistic greedy a of archetype the company, insurance an to rights ing publish your dealing were you that fact the was It se. per deal the not is deal publishing this with out stood that thing the But /// shit. a give don’t I want. they what say can They me. of opinion their to etc. off, mouth would I more the was, I ferocious more the hit, I harder the was, I frightened more the and fear, by driven are you where pit that in been I’ve because them understand envious. people some made it that likely very it’s think I too. envy some created probably It attention. of lot a got deal this and society small a is this But deal. publishing simple a is This music. the from revenue and songs the from revenue get they but songs, these of author the still am I permission. my without songs my use can one No permission. my without songs my with anything do can one No did. I what is which deal, publishing a makes musician every and band every that understand to seem don’t people Sjóvá, company) insurance (the with made I deal the is thing Another destiny.” my of control in be I’ll Now more. no but long, this for abuse people let have I more. any this take won’t I “Hey, said: and this realised finally I day One me. hustled simply people because money of lot a lost I ning, begin the in and deals… making without records make not could I powers. financial the to out sold I record, first my from that is realise don’t they what But way… a Yes.In – But I’ve always said, everyone is entitled entitled is everyone said, always I’ve But I them. understand I sure. – yes But, - - - - feature - - others were doing, as long as I could connect connect could I as long as doing, were others the and Strummer Joe what me to all at ter mat didn’t it Clash, the with thing same The music. the on focused have probably would I think I commercials. in used be to songs his sold Dylan when me for anything change didn’t It records. the on focused have would I not. or deal publishing some had he whether not lyrics, the and music the for Bubbi criticised have probably would I then, back was I what knowing honest, be to am I If music.’ his against Dylan Bob against prejudice personal your holding just Youare music. the to listening aren’t ‘You said: ways al I but him, on up gave friends my of Most example. for Dylan criticised never I in. was I mood the on depend would It time. the at on was I drugs what on depend would It – today? Morthens Bubbi to say to have would ago years 25 Morthens Bubbi think do What /// point. certain a to criticism this understand I But me. bug this let to not decision, the made I feel. I how for responsible be only can I feel; others how for responsible myself hold can’t I Go. Let Go, Let myself, to thought I finally But, didn’t. I said I if lying be I’d me. bug criticism this allow to going was I while, a for sure, mean I like. was she though you what not is person this that out find you and biography someone’s You read assumptions. money. of kind that for parlour funeral a with deal a made have would I company? insurance an mean, I Iceland. of history the in deal ing record biggest the making was I doing. am I what to as idea no have and stuff new the of none but stuff, old the know they records; the to listen don’t They this. see don’t People mattered. that felt have I that everything about written have I and conscious socially been always have I message. political a have don’t albums few very career, my Through again. over and over A-Changing Are They Times The do to Dylan asking like is This prejudice. own their in stuck completely are people how shows and joke a is This crew! your and you fuck You know, you! Fuck life. my of rest the for Ísbjarnarblús make I that demand the is that Bubbi, Old The - Bubbi. Old the vs. Bubbi New the is thing Another /// years. ten last the income steady a had I’ve years, 26 those Of years. 26 for music my of living a make to able been have to lucky myself consider I musician. a be than else something do would I then No, money? make to se, per goal that is But years. golden my enjoy can I that and education an get can kids my that sure make family, my feed to have I that sides be me to anything mean doesn’t It money. handle to how known never have I No. – you? drives that something is money the So, /// rich. filthy be I’d records. lion The thing is, people make up their own own their up make people is, thing The ------– Totally. – happy. be to seem you where life your in place a in be to Youseem /// hell. encing experi are they and up fucked and angry are who people young are there But up. growing of part a is that fine, them, for relevance no have I say who people Young them. between ocean an is there and angry, and young are there then and people, angry and young are there that is saying am I What you. with wrong something also is there then 30 turn you after radical still are you If you. with wrong something is there then 30, turn you before radical not are you if that effect the to something said who Twain Mark was it think I up. growing of part a is It nostrils. the in beginning. the from start to have you that accept and up give to ready are you before humiliation, unending and pain ing unend experience to need you program that with deal to ready be to you for But program.’ 12-step a called is it and complicated not is It problem. your to solution a is ‘There up, fucked are who people, young these tell can I do?’ I should ‘What say: and me to up come they and 15-20 of ages the between people angry and young are there where place to go I week a times Five lot. a them teach can I and angry and young are people Many – angry? and young are who people to say to something have still you Do angry. AND old be to used you that is difference the Well, /// pipe. a fire let’s dope, smoke to cool is it says Bubbi common. in something have we old, years 18 is he old, years 23 was I that relevance the young, was I When changes. emphasis The relevance. have always you think I relevance? have they do memoirs… writing People Gunnarsson? Gunnar author) (Icelandic people? young for relevance any have Laxness Halldór) author Icelandic winning Prize (Nobel does mean I but today, emphasise people young that things same the about singing luck. my been has That people. old and people middle-aged teenagers, show, the into get to guidance parental need they that young so kids are There demography. the at look audience, the at Look concerts. my to come Just You – bet. today? people young to relevance any have Morthens Bubbi musician the Does /// right. thing some doing am I that me tells just It me. criticising are people glad am I so mountain, highest the climb to want always People music. pathetic made they because was It personally. them with do to nothing had it HLH”], and Brimklo to listen I moron, certified a am “I goes: lyric’s older Bubbi’s of [One day the in back Brimklo band) pop Morthens. Bubbi musician the on focused have would I think I But saying. out with goes That capitalist! You fucking you! Fuck said: have probably would I life, my in pillar a of sort some been had Morthens Bubbi of persona the If Bubbi… idolised had I If way. that it about thought have would I think I lyrics. the were so and brilliant still was music the but direction, that with agree didn’t I stuff, religious his did Dylan when You know, with. consistent been I’ve thing some is music The know. you myself, at look can I But right. You are not. Maybe No… – ago. years 25 were you man same the not Youare you. behind experience this all have now, old years 50 Youare say. to you for easy is Today,that /// blue… beautiful a is that or mountainside, the on light the uses he how about thinking be just probably I’d Mortensen’. Viggo with deal that from made Guðni Georg money much how wonder I man. ‘Shit think: and exhibition gallery a into go don’t I person. a as like is he what not after, am I what is that good, is book the and book, a have I If it… name you mule, a fucked someone, murdered has author an if me to difference no makes It authors. with same the is It way. this in strange am I Maybe music. their with I mean, young and angry? That is just just is That angry? and young mean, I be not might I But question. Yes.No perspective. this understand can I But country- (Icelandic attacked I reason The >>> continues onpage next >>> continues - 29 - - - - 30 feature poetry Nýhil Poetry in the Grapevine: WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS Steinar Bragi NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS

Author/poet Steinar Bragi (b. 1975) is regarded as one of Iceland’s promis- ing young writers, although it could be argued that his four novels and five books of poetry have far surpassed the claim. His latest book of poetry, Litli Kall Strikes Again was released by Nýhil this summer as part of its Nordic Literature series – many claim it is his best so far.

3. A day for G8-protesting in Edinburgh.

Today was a very strict day in protesting agains the unjustness of monetary spreadability in the world with stars in the city (Edinburgh) fighting agains this. The subject has been developing for quite a time and I remember Bob Geldof spearheading it on many a gathering once while he travelled more ;(. The subject enjoys cross-political benevolence except for Bush, now I´m go- ing to wring my neck, no, carry on with the story. I was confiscated!!!! I was at some protest alone, Emma was at school, Vidar and Daff were protesting elsewhere – EH!!??? why didn´t they just protest there at town where I was also protesting!!?? When we turned a corner and walked into a long alleyway open at both ends the cops suddenly sprang from hiding – with masks and sticks and shields and all, and shut us all in in the alley and said: “No, no, you can´t leave, just stay here for the whole of the day because we say so” WHAT!!!!??????? SAY AGAIN!!!????

Eat shit penguin BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 , crawl back into the hole you crawled up from you shit revolting muscle of the fascist state which is the West today - PHONE: 551 3083 Fuck off democracy, crawl back down the hole disgusting democracy you´re sham democracy, you should be named deathcracy, dickcracy Stay off my case fucking penguin let me out of this alleyway hell moran, I don´t have the time Oldest bakery in Iceland to stick around for the whole of the day you disgusting fucking penguin Shall I smash through your shield little scared penguin??? Shall I wring your neck Muscle-cell, capitalist blister? since 1834 O.k., the state has confiscated me but I´m slick, you can´t hold me here for the rest of my life idiots. When I escape I´ll destroy your system All of us protest, idiots

I noted what happened at what time in the alleyway: 12:35 PM. Shut inside the alleyway, ridiculously boring, obscenely free subjects of the West FALSE 13:40 An anarchist crawls up on the roof, legal advisors come and advise us. “Be cool,” says legal to me when I´m exploding I´m so afraid the police will hit me 14:30 start of sipping with rope, the anarchists are a bit lame but I support their cause which is the destruction of community as we know it but I´m less sure about some of their other stuff. But don´t judge the fold by it´s black sheep, not everyone wants this, only DEMOCRATICALLY ELECTED WESTERN GOVERNMENTS who want to destroy communities of /// Do you regret anything along the way? their business. The only thing that mat- off. I am the most powerful performer in wonderful raw punk rock can sound. But, other communities. – No, there is nothing in my life I wish I had tered to me was to get on stage and perform. the Icelandic Rock n’ Roll history. End of what do I know. I could be dead tomorrow. 14:38 been staying here for ever. The speaker is broke says a guy, we don´t done differently right now. Considering how It didn’t make any difference to me when I discussion. know anything, someone is taking a nap and someone says the police are things turned out, this is how it was meant to saw the Volkswagen logo beside the Rolling I am a big rocker. But I find it just as ex- /// There is a biographical novel about your trying to put us to sleep as if they won´t manage with beer, football and be. I’ve had to do a lot of apologising through Stones when I saw them. I just came to see citing to be alone with my guitar. It is harder life coming out now, two years ago there television og need something else. the years, we should never forget that words the Stones. I will go see the Sugarcubes for than being in a rock band. With the guitar, was a documentary on your life, 18 years 15:14 SHIT!!! The cops have started moving in on us!! Suddenly they step have effects, and once you have said some- sure, although the FL Group logo will be you are the whole show. In a band, you are ago there was another biography, there have twenty steps ahead with arms locked and their shields and are going to thing it is out there, you can’t really take it plastered everywhere. just a member. been countless media interviews… When CRUSH US!!!! I´m disgustingly scared, can´t understand why they do this. back. But of course, this was a massive mar- But maybe I needed a few years away will we have enough of Bubbi Morthens? I WAS JUST PROTESTING MORANS!!!! I don’t spend a lot of time wondering keting circus. I mean, it was probably the from rock music while the poison was leaving – You have yet to see a movie based on my 15:40 Is this the best you can do nitwits, come for me idiot, I´m not going about things though. I’ve gone through biggest marketing campaign for a concert my body. Being a rock musician is a very life, and probably a play based on my life, anywhere, come and I´ll blast your face shit. life, and I’ve had to apologise to for a lot of you are that much younger than me. But things, and similarly, I’ve had to forgive a kidding aside, this book coming out now is lot of people. As a young kid, I experienced Of course this was a massive marketing circus. I mean, a sort a Manga version of my life. You can 15:47 Penguins make a line, five-man-deep, everybody with their little cute things that people agree children should nev- always find new sides to the phenomenon shields doing something sneaky behind them. er experience and all that, things that could it was probably the biggest marketing campaing for a that is Bubbi Morthens, and take note, I say 16:25 “If you want to leave form an orderly que,” says the main-penguin into easily have ruined me for life. But some- the phenomenon Bubbi Morthens because the speaker. Fuck off. how, I was strong enough to ask others for concert in Iceland. The set-ups were one of the best it leads a separate life. I don’t know. Often 16:35 been “cordoned”; suddenly we´ve all formed a line to get out. forgiveness and to be able to forgive people I think it is enough but what can I say… I 16:37 a girl retrieved from the line and arrested. “This is what democracy myself. At some point in my life, I realised ever in Iceland as far as lighting and sound goes. There sell out all my shows, I am here, and can’t do looks like” all sing. – Democracy is like a guy, feet broke on both sides, try- I was not the person I wanted to be and that was one thing I could have done without: (The nights much else, but I try to be more humble than ing to stand up to hit an arab. I really needed to change. That’s not a nice I was at the beginning of my career. People 16:43 Police eat Mars chocolate bars disgustingly fast. Then they plastic- experience to go through, when you realise presenters) Simmi and Jói. I left them of the Live DVD. can’t forget that primarily I am a musician. bag all junk from the street and scarves and hats. The police is from Mars, that: ‘Wow, I’m not just an asshole, I am a That often gets lost when people talk about protesters from Venus hehe. monster.’ I did some really intense introspec- Bubbi Morthens. I have written over 500 16:55 Interrogated by two cops who also do a body search all over, they say tion and I’ve managed to work out most of songs on so many different subjects. There I was held up by the power of Section 60. Exactly, section 60 explains all How did it all begin? my faults. Some of them are genetic and I try are so many different versions of me. I can’t of this, I´m so glad you told me why you shut me up inside an alleyway for Multimedia techniques bring to keep them in check. It wasn’t easy, but at do anything else than be who I am. Today, I many hours, section 60 saves the day. Step into Reykjavík’s past to life, providing the end of it all, I experienced freedom. I was in Iceland. The set-ups were one of the best tough lifestyle. Drugs and rock n’ roll are so try to protect my freedom above all. I made visitors with insights into how a free man. ever in Iceland as far as lighting and sound intertwined. I just needed a few years away a lot of sacrifices to attain that. I am at this people lived in the Viking Age, and goes. There was one thing I could have done from that scene to get another perspective. point in my life, a point where I think most Ow, it´s finished. I had to tell you about this. It´s a great victory for me to what the Reykjavík environment /// One of the things that Sindri Eldon without: (The night’s presenters) Simmi and Today I am okay with that. I’ll rock again people should consider if the would not want be able to tell you this because I made notes. Conclusion. The main subjects looked like to the first settlers. criticised you for during your anniversary Jói. I left them off the live DVD. for sure. My next record will most likely be a to be in their life. To be free. It cost me a lot of the report are the following: Everybody continues watching the TV- the Viking Age The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 concert was the presentation. The whole rock album. I have already come up with the of pain to get to this point, but in this case, news with great care and diligence and then voting their representatives for is located at Aðalstræti 16 thing came off as a PR spectacle for Glitnir /// The rock musician Bubbi Morthens, is title: Fear is the Move. I want to crank the that pain was a blessing. At the end of the parliament every four years but instead do it every 40.000 year and choose bank rather than a celebration of your he still alive? amplifier up to 11 and play three-chord rock day, I can honestly say that looking back, I geographically, voting for example the Eurasian-plate to cheer it against the Reykjavík City Museum birthday. – Yes. You won’t find a more powerful stage music in the spirit of (on of Bubbi’s many can see that my biggest losses were really my Asian-plate and if they move a bit TO SIGH (SAME SHIT DIFFERENT www.reykjavik871.is – Of course they were using this as a PR performer than me. I am 50 years old, if you former bands) Das Kapital. That was always biggest victories. DAY!!!!). moment. They would be stupid if they didn’t can take anyone of these cats out here, take one of my favourite bands. I think it was the after sponsoring the whole event. It would be away his drugs, put him on stage for three best stuff I played during the anniversary bad business on their behalf. That was totally hours like I did that night, I’ll take my hat concert. It made me so glad to hear how Between ISK 1000 Between ISK 2500 we recommend 32 $ Under ISK 1000 $ $ and ISK 2500 $ $ $ and ISK 4000 $ $ $ $ Over ISK 4000 ¸DcZd[:jgdeZ»h DINING, EATING [^cZhiZchZbWaZh#¹ - BBC Music Magazine & By Haukur Magnússon and Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Skari and Julia Staples GRUBBING jeXdb^c\XdcXZgih THursdAy, November 9th @ 7:30pM THursdAy, November 23rd @ 7:30 to their iBooks in a cosy and smoke-free the cheese we chose to put on top. Mango [^abXdcXZgi deZgVi^XXdcXZgi Conductor ::: Frank strobel Conductor ::: Johannes Fritzsch Kaffi environment. and apple juice, organic of course, as well as a d.W. Griffith/Carl davis ::: Intolerance soloists ::: Kristinn sigmundsson, The organic tea and coffee isn’t the only bottle of ginger ale were served for drinks. Kolbeinn Ketilsson, Wolfgang draw though. With all ingredients (with- Made just as you would do at home, the sATurdAy, November 11th @ 3:00pM schöne and petra Lang Hljómalind [Vb^an[^abXdcXZgi Mixed Choir Laugavegur 21, 101 Reykjavík out the butter, cream and cheese) not only flavourful lasagne came with some salad, Conductor ::: Frank strobel Choirmaster ::: Árni Harðarson Tel.: 517-1980 organic but most of it free trade as well, the pumpkin and sunflower seeds, both very Charles Chaplin ::: The Kid richard Wagner ::: parsifal, 3rd mvt. Charles Chaplin ::: The Idle Class richard Wagner ::: Tristan & Isolde, coffeehouse is ideal for those who like quality healthy, just as all other ingredients used for prelude & Libestod coffee and juices as they were meant to be the cuisine. The plates and silverware, as THursdAy, November 16th @ 7:30pM $ $ made and eat healthy and nutritious meals. well as all furnishing inside are second-hand, bdoVgi^chVaoWjg\ THursdAy, November 30th @ 7:30 Conductor ::: robert King Conductor ::: rumon Gamba Although the drink selection takes up a mixture of here and there things, making soloist ::: Gillian Keith soloist ::: sergei Aleksashikin Located on the corner of Laugavegur and much more space on the menu than the the atmosphere even more relaxing than it Choir of Hamrahlíð Male Choir of Fóstbræður Klapparstígur, the organic and cultural cof- edible parts, the selection of cold and warm would be lying in your own living room. W. A. Mozart ::: regina Coeli, K. 127 Choirmaster ::: Árni Harðarson W. A. Mozart ::: sancta Maria, K. 273 W. A. Mozart ::: don Giovanni, Overture feehouse Kaffi Hljómalind prides itself on dishes is quite satisfying. The soup of the With full and satisfied stomachs, we W. A. Mozart ::: Epistle sonata, K. 278 richard strauss ::: don Juan its non-profit, co-op status and on send- day, various sandwiches and home-baked unfortunately didn’t have the appetite to even W. A. Mozart ::: Excultate Jubilate, K. 165 shostakovitch ::: symphony no. 13, Babi yar ing a positive message to society. Being a cakes fill up the list of appetising treats. look at the cake list. That delicacy will have W. A. Mozart ::: symphony nr. 34 W. A. Mozart ::: regina Coeli, K. 108 popular concert spot for the local hardcore After deciding whether to sit at a small to wait until next time. SJ scene, Hljómalind also hosts poetry nights table in the corner or choose to lounge in and lectures and serves as a popular hangout one of the old sofas facing the window, we i^X`ZihhdaYVilll#h^c[dc^V#^hdgiZa#*)*'*%%# spot for many locals who like to slurp down ordered the vegetarian lasagne. It would have All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted. organic drinks while downloading music been a complete vegan dish if it weren’t for

seems like all the working residents down- along with large Danish beers to satisfy our Jómfrúin town meet to eat their lunch. When my thirst, only appropriate for the big Danish Lækjargata 4, 101 Reykjavík companion and I arrived at one o’clock in meal awaiting us, the waiter arrived with Tel. 551-0100 the afternoon, the place was at least packed. large, hearty plates of bread and trimmings. Every table was fully seated with locals feast- My fried plaice served on rye bread with ing on yummy bread with all sorts of spreads tartar sauce, smoked salmon and caviar, $ $ or the warm lunch dishes offered every shrimp, asparagus and lemon to give it an day. The diverse menu consisted of various extra decoration, was especially delicious Imagine Danish cuisine in all its glory. desirable courses, such as frikadeller with and I instantly understood why it’s the most Then imagine a trimmings-heaven where onion, biksemad, fish dishes, as well as the popular dish on the menu. My companion you can choose all the meat and garnish you obligatory smørrebrød with salmon, herring, was equally satisfied with his pastrami, could ever dream of, piled atop of a slice of eel, ham and roasted lamb as examples of which came on white bread with smoked and rye-bread. Add a bit of friendly service and delicious meals cooked and prepared in an marinated beef, sauerkraut, Dijon mustard Icelandic quality ingredients and you’ll get old-fashioned Danish style. After carefully and fresh herbs. A precise proportion to The Place Deserves Its Fame the roomy and charming restaurant Jómfrúin scouting the endless selection, my compan- satisfy the afternoon hunger, the meal was at Lækjargata, the only place to get tradi- ion ordered the pastrami sandwich. I was so not only delicious but fully competitive with tional Danish smørrebrød (open sandwiches) confused by all the choices I allowed the nice the standards set by the pristine Danish food F í t o n / S Í A in Reykjavík. waiter to make the pick. tradition. SJ by bart cameron [a\gdje^hi]ZbV^chedchdgd[ With its 11:00 to 18:00 opening hours After bringing us two shots of Danish i]Z^XZaVcYhnbe]dcndgX]ZhigV the major rush hour is during lunch. Then it akvavit (a traditional Scandinavian schnapps) Hotel Búðir is one of the world’s best hotels – Condé To complete the Búðir experience, the hotel also Nast Traveler has said so, as have a few other magazines. houses an outstanding restaurant, featuring the modern, And they’re all right. What is more, if Búðir were a French-inspired take on Icelandic cuisine that you’d One of four waiters (!) who tended to us well, leaving a rather bland noodle affair as four-dollar tent with a sleeping mat, it would still be one expect at a four-star hotel. Maru that night soon came to the rescue however, the one dish that didn’t particularly impress of the world’s greatest hotels. Located on a natural inlet The hotel is the dream getaway for couples, and they Aðalstræti 12, 101 Reykjavík and brought us lovely bottles of Asahi and our otherwise pleased taste buds. It was along the country’s best beach on the southern coast of made up the bulk of the residents when we visited this Tel: 511-4440 white wine, altogether more fitting drinks. still pretty good, however. A dessert menu the Snæfellsnes peninsula, Búðir boasts both the best year. A hotel this good and this relaxing can serve mul- The courses kept on coming in an equally limited to blueberry sorbet, vanilla ice cream coastline, and the best view of Iceland’s most famous tiple purposes, though. With the views and the many untimely fashion, our table soon brimming and chocolate cake, although all fine courses glacier, Snaefellsjökull. To complete the view, Búðir also public spaces, and with the hiking and overall solitude $ $ $ with plate after plate of fishy delights (and in their own right, was perplexing in light of overlooks one of the few traditional countryside black – the hotel is two hour’s drive from Reykjavík, but it one noodly, meaty delight) that tasted really Maru’s otherwise Japanese-style menu. Even chapels, a modest but surprisingly evocative structure. feels like a different world – we found Búðir perfect for Maru’s website claims that the Japanese good, but would certainly have benefited infusing the ice cream with some green tea As it happens, one of the magazines that thinks our purposes, a quick work retreat. restaurant emphasises take-out orders. This from a more thoughtful presentation; the would have made for a more authentic end to Hotel Búðir is one of the world’s greats is the design Ours will only be one small article in the arsenal of is fitting, as their near flawless take on sushi haphazard style in which the food was served the delicious meal. magazine Wallpaper. Attractive as the surroundings Búðir praise you’ll see if you’re a fan of Iceland. As you and Japanese cuisine in general is somewhat doesn’t reflect Maru’s seemingly upscale A single piece of sushi at Maru will set are, and as handsome as the outside of Búðir is, and it come across the write-ups, it may feel like this is the at odds with the all-too homey feel one aspirations (as indicated by its decorations). you back about 2-400 IKR, well comparable is unusually tasteful, the interior gets featured in design most over-hyped institution in the country. All we can encounters when dining there. Case in point: However, I stress that nearly all the food with what other sushi places in Iceland of- magazines. When we arrived, we headed straight for the say is that we’ve checked it out. If there were anything our first course, an unrelentingly delicious sampled was of the highest quality, and the fer. For a full meal, without drinks, one can hotel lounge, a timeless, a dream hunting-lodge style bar. negative to say, we, of all people, would say it. This hotel and thoughtfully presented tuna sashimi sal- fish was extremely fresh, even if some cours- expect to pay about 2,000-4,000 ISK, which The walls are decked with tasteful mountings, Audubon- is as good as it gets, and a little better than that. ad, was served about three minutes after our es were decidedly better than others. A spicy seems fair. HM style paintings, and old National Geographics, the bar aperitifs. While Maru’s take on Pink Mojito tuna maki was just a dash away from perfect, outfitted with the country’s best Scotch and Port selec- Hotel Búðir, 365 Snæfellsbær, was perfectly competent, its sugary flavour as were salmon, white fish and tiger shrimp tion. Truthfully, we chose Búðir solely for the lounge, as Tel.: 435-6700, www.budir.is. did little to complement the fine dish. nigiri. The miso was well up to standard as we had headed out to the bar last year for a retreat.

COME TO THE NORTHERNMOST INDIAN-PAKISTANI CUISINE AND TRY ONE OF THE MOST SAUCY, SNAZZY, & SPICY CURRIES IN ICELAND.

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Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE Available at your nearest bookstore AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is 34 culture interview 35 Selection of Old Masterpieces Spontaneous Self-Pleasuring A different kind of cinema Daft Punk on movies, music and texture

by andrew clarke photo by skari by haukur magnússon

After two film festivals in quick succession, make the perfect Halloween treat. Oh and Meeting up with legendary electro hitmongers the discerning film fan can find the rest of the plot concerns undertakers Price and Lorre Daft Punk backstage at NASA for a short the cinematic year offers slim pickings. But indulging in murder to drum up business, but interview, just minutes before one half of the the little-known Kvikmyndasafn Íslands (the that hardly matters. eclectic duo took the stage to perform a rare National Film Archive of Iceland) in Haf- Cross of Iron (21st & 25th November) is DJ set, the pair made abundantly clear just narfjörður comes to the rescue, with its rep one of Sam Peckinpah’s strongest and most how French they really are. They took time programme, which runs from September to respected films. It’s set on the Russian front to contemplate every question, their answers April. I say little known because attendances during the Second World War and it tackles cloaked in thick accents and served up in struggle to hit double figures. big themes: honour, loyalty and the senseless the thoughtfully abstract and wordy manner Like Tjarnarbíó, the cinema itself feels atrocity of war. Thirty years haven’t dimmed that has for the past century been a staple of like a cinema ought to, rather than the charac- its power. Peckinpah was a true tyro director French thought. The reason for Daft Punk’s terless if comfy boxes elsewhere. And the price who mixed in real character development with visit to Reykjavík wasn’t of the sonic variety, is just 500 ISK, well worth paying to see an slow motion hails of bullets in films like The however, rather they were here as guests of oldie the way it was meant to be seen, on the Wild Bunch and The Getaway. James Coburn, the Reykjavík International Film Festival big screen. Maximilian Schell, James Mason and David to follow up a screening of their recent film Sadly it shows only one film twice a week Warner make a genuinely heavyweight cast too. Electroma, which chronicles two robots’ quest but its selections are eclectic to say the least. In Joseph Losey’s Eva (8th November to become human. As this is an English-language paper, I’ll and 2nd December) Stanley Baker’s Welsh It became clear early in our conversation leave out the films by Tarkovsky, Truffaut writer travels to Venice where he falls into the that Thomas Bangalter does most of Daft and Fellini and give a rundown of the English clutches of an exotic foreign woman played Punk’s talking, his companion, Guy-Manuel language flicks showing before the end of the by Jeanne Moreau (British films of this era de Homem-Christo, sporadically offering year. sometimes showed a strange fascination and helpful comments while silently contemplat- Comedy of Terrors (7th & 11th Novem- perhaps fear of licentious foreign women – Si- ing his surroundings (when asked why he ber) is a feast for fans of tongue-in-cheek, mone Sigornet in Room at the Top, Eva Bar- doesn’t talk more he replied, “We are on the gothic horror. The film’s pedigree is impec- tok in Spaceways). The undoubtedly talented same wavelength, for the most part”). The cable. It’s directed by Jacques Tourneur who Losey, blacklisted in Hollywood, was seldom pair is legendarily reluctant to be photo- made the classic I Walked With a Zombie afraid to push his films in slightly deranged graphed without some sort of mask or robot and Night of the Demon. The script is by directions (The Servant, for example), so if a costume hiding their faces, so it seemed natu- Richard Matheson who wrote I Am Legend melodramatic, pot-boiler is your cup of tea… ral to begin by asking if it was really them. and The Incredible Shrinking Man. And as “No, we kidnapped the real Daft Punk in for the cast… Vincent Price, Boris Karloff, Films are shown on Thursday evenings at 20:00 Paris and came here pretending to be them. Peter Lorre and Basil Rathbone. What more and on Saturday afternoons at 16:00. [Laughing.] Daft Punk is actually a group could any horror fan want? It’s a shame it isn’t For more information, visit www.kvikmyn- of 10-15 people in Paris; we are just their the like, really physical elements – just the worst things that lie in your possibilities, with or forbid us from work on other projects that programmed for a week earlier as it would dasafn.is. spokesmen. But no, not really. We are Daft same as in the move we focused on the film’s 16 million colours at your disposal. It’s almost are exciting. And we mostly work together, Punk, the one and only.” Bangalter then turns grain and texture. It is, for example, like the a problem with the creative process now, how but not always.” the subject to their motivation for making way you view a painting: half of you will limitless computers have made it. Limits and Electroma, and why they deliberately decided research the grain of the canvas and the way it boundaries are, in a way, important to crea- /// Assuming that music is a way to com- Fiery Love Affair and Icelandic Chauvinism against using any of their own music for the interacts with the paint, a very down to earth tion.” municate sentiments that cannot be said dialogue-free film’s score. “We’ve done lots of thing that is not the abstract part of the crea- with mere words, what, if anything, are you English-language theatre on Icelandic stages music in the past, but have always been inter- tive process. It has to do with the elements you /// Is there, in your opinion, a big difference trying to get across with your music? Are you ested in the visual aspect as well. To that end, really use, the wood, the film or something between the artistic fields of filmmaking theorising, even? we’ve directed videos and designed a table, for like that. In that way we approach film and and music? – Exactly, our music is about expressing the instance. For Electroma, we basically wanted music similarly, because we approach it not so – Well, filmmaking is definitely one of the things words cannot say, but without theo- to do the opposite of what we usually do as much in a conceptual way, rather a physical most collaborative art forms. When we’re rising too much. As I said, we work with a by steinunn jakobsdóttir photo by skari a pair and immerse ourselves in the visual one.” making music by ourselves, it is a rewarding very spontaneous concept of communication, aspect itself. Working on the film as a whole They tell me that an important aspect in process but one very different from making one that is at the same time conscious and This November will see the premier of two is enough work without composing the music anything they do is spontaneity, even projects films, where there may be fifty or sometimes unconscious. Music making is a therapy for new plays aimed at the English-speaking as well, writing the story, directing, doing the such as Electroma that will eventually take a even hundreds of people involved. You get to us, which means expressing our unconscious, audience: Danny and the Deep Blue Sea cinematography, choosing the right music… number of years to conclude. “We try to do collaborate, learn new things. Working on but it is at the same time a conscious attempt at Austurbær Theatre and the brand new ensuring our vision, basically.” everything we do in a spontaneous manner; movies is a good thing, it gets you out of your to do so. Then again, I don’t know if what we Icelandic play Best í Heimi (Best in the We discuss their foray into filmmaking through it we are able to share our world view cocoon or shell or something. do can really be referred to as communica- World) at Iðnó. Foreign actors take on the further, and compare it to their successful with the people. The ideas may take a long tion because it is very self-involved. We do it leading roles in both pieces but direction is in career making music. They tell me Electroma time to execute but are in their essence always /// Making a movie under the Daft Punk for ourselves, we share it later, but our main the hands of young local talents. could be interpreted as their attempt at mak- spontaneous. It may take two years to realise moniker invites the question if you conceive motivation for making music is a selfish one. Described as a punked love story, the play ing “a kind of music for the eyes”, and that it a creative endeavour that was conceived in the project as a continuation of your work in A lot of musicians have the talent and ability Danny and the Deep Blue Sea by New York is probably less accessible than their music be- seconds, it doesn’t mean that two years of music, and if you prefer to work together at to communicate to a mass of people and ex- playwright John Patrick Shanley, now being cause of the format. They add, however, that creating were involved. all times? press their emotions. People like Bob Dylan or performed at Austurbær Theatre, is directed there are similarities in the way they approach “We try and please the spontaneous desire – We’ve done many things under the Daft John Lennon are really frank and gifted like by Jón Gunnar Þórðarson. British husband the creative process of each. “It maybe lies in that started us on our way, we stick to this Punk name. We want to tackle different art that. I think we are more in our own room, and wife Matthew Hugget and Nicolette working with the raw material, processing it. desire and it’s important to keep ones eyes on forms and learn as much as we can in the and revolve more about a sound. When we Morrison play two disturbed lower-class At a base level, everything we do is linked to it. The problem with creating with technol- process. It’s definitely true that we’ve had a lot write something, we can take years to finish underachievers (Danny and Roberta) who technology, so when we started to make music ogy is that has grown limitless, in a way. A of success and exposure with making music, it before we share it. At that point we are only are quite out of touch with reality. Danny we worked with textures and frequencies and computer can help you make both the best and but we don’t want this attention to restrain us speaking to ourselves and pleasing ourselves. is a violent deadbeat and Roberta the single mother of a screwed-up teenage son. When the two lost and lonely souls meet at a shabby bar they slowly start connecting with each other through their mutual hatred of life. The play is in all humanly emotional as well as romantic. Even though Danny and Roberta might seem rough on the outside, in the end, they just want some warmth and affection. Performed at various theatres around the world, critics have described Danny and the Deep Blue Sea as “a wrenching love story” and “one of the most visible, concrete examples of Shanley’s dedication to exploring the infinite contrasts of human relationships.” The impro play Best í Heimi not only differs quite a bit from the aforementioned play in its storyline, but it is in Icelandic with English subtitles. Directed by María Reyndal and collaboratively written by Reyndal and Hávar Sigurjónsson. After a pride and local chauvinism as well as the the Grapevine. as well as for Icelanders themselves, Best í year of preparations, time mostly spent in humorous and sometimes sad sides being an Actors Caroline Dalton from England, Heimi will be shown until the end of this collecting material and interviewing numerous immigrant in Iceland can have are expressed Dimitra Drakopoulou from Greece, French year. immigrants, the results are finally coming to in multiple ways. “We are making fun of Pierre-Alain Giraud and Tuna Meyta from fruition. all the old clichés and stereotypical ideas Turkey all have had their fair share of the For further information on both pieces, see the Being a comic satire on Icelandic society about Icelanders and their relationship with country’s residents and their own experiences Theatre Listings section in the Grapevine. the play revolves around the relationship foreigners. We try to do so with both a funny with the Icelandic society reflect in between Icelanders and immigrants. National and critical perspective,” María Reyndal tells performances. A curious piece for foreigners 36 reviews

GRAPEVINE ALBUM REVIEWS 2003 2004

Various Artists Skakkamanage Pældu í því sem Regína Ósk Lab of Love pælandi er í Í djúpum dal

Worth 3 1/2 beers Worth 2 beers Worth 1 beer

Supposedly there’s a whole never reaches greatness and This is the second Megas but, apart from for one track, This is an album filled with at something greater. Most generation of young artists after a few listens left me tribute CD ever to surface it doesn’t add anything of love and religious songs. notable is the melancholy and and musicians who all have annoyed. Annoyed because in the history of mankind. value to the songs. It’s a great Regína Ósk is more than a eerie Hvað tekur við, which the same perspective on their Skakkamanage could have Thirteen various artists and reminder of Megas’s genius capable singer and producer is incidentally the only track work to justify the title “the done better, judging from bands have a go at his songs though. Nobody matches his Barði Jóhannsson of Bang Barði cowrites. Í Djúpum Dal cute generation”. The pil- their live shows. They seem with similar results. Each lyrics and it made me want to Gang is a competent pro- (In a Deep Valley) is not an lars of the “movement” are to have fallen into the pit artist puts his own mark on dig into my record collection ducer. The result though, is album that will make its mark often named as Sigur Rós that’s marked: lo-fi makes the songs but mostly adds for his work, maybe that’s the yet another acoustic guitar on music history. But it does and múm. Let’s add Skakka- everything great. Which is nothing new. A good cover point of the whole deal. The and piano-oriented, slow, un- what it tries to do fairly well: manage to the list. This lo-fi a bad pit. On the last track, song should add something track that makes this a wor- original CD for middle-aged to provide the world with minimalistic music is cute Colonial, they finally crawl to the original, not just a new thy buy is Trabant’s great ver- people of all ages. Which is more slow love songs sung by as hell, partly recorded in out of that pit and show us arrangement that sounds sion of Björt ljós, borgarljós. not necessarily a bad thing. a female angelic voice. Buy 2005 bedrooms and apartments something amazing. Despite almost the same. These are That cover makes the album There are a few tracks that this for your grandmother on in Reykjavík. Nice, odd and its shortcomings though, all talented artists and it’s – the rest is pleasant but for- show some minor variations your father’s side as a Christ- sometime catchy folk songs it’s probably one of the most an enjoyable CD to listen to gettable. PH from the formula and hint mas present. PH that have some weird attrac- interesting Icelandic albums tion that’s hard to pinpoint. this year. PH But somehow the album

Bubbi Lay Low Hildur Vala 06.06.06 Please don’t hate me Lalala Worth 4 coffees* Worth 3 1/2 beers Worth 1 beer

This 2-CD set is the live perfect recording – the guitar Lay Low’s country blues is a the syndrome so many artists Hildur Vala, the winner Hey Jude by the Beatles – for recording of Bubbi’s 50th sound is at times way too low breath of fresh air into Ice- trying to express themselves of the hugely popular TV another example see The birthday concert, which he and generally the bands are landic music life. Especially in a non-native tongue suffer show/singing competition Offspring’s nineties smash managed to sell out in at least too far back in the mix. The considering the fact that girls from – not knowing the lan- Icelandic Idol, is back with hit Self Esteem). This album two different ways. The venue best moments are when Bubbi of her age hardly ever produce guage they’re working with. her second album and this is more so-so than na na was packed with people who is free from his old bandmates anything this original. Lay But the songs are excellent, time it’s not an album of na: easy listening jazzy pop 2006 bought tickets and some bank and just sits down with the Low’s strength lies in compos- the production good and the covers but all new songs by that leaves no mark, but is bought some hefty advertising guitar – the new song Grafir ing fine tunes but it’s the lyri- guitar playing fine. An honest, various Icelandic musicians. extremely radio friendly. Buy space. But let’s not get into og Bein ranks among his best cal department that could use somewhat original (at least It’s called Lalala. Here’s an this for your grandmother that. It’s an ambitious project works. Buy this if you were some quality control. Songs by Icelandic standards) album Icelandic lesson for you: lala on your mother’s side as a for any artist to race through one of the 5,000 people who mostly about love and regret that doesn’t sound like a debut means so and so. Lalala could Christmas present. PH a two-hour program with six had a great time at the concert with a fair bit of hymn-like at all, but the work of an expe- be translated Na na na (as in bands and some solo perfor- – if not, get something else lyrics that at times suffer from rienced artist. A fine CD. PH mances. It may have taken from Bubbi – there’s a lot of its toll on Bubbi that night, good stuff to choose from. PH or maybe it’s because the im- Guide to the rating system: In prison, you deal in cigarettes. In Iceland, you deal in beers. We don’t condone this, we just accept it as fact. One beer = 500 ISK at the seedy bars we frequent. That means a mainstream release costs uo to 2500 ISK... or $40. Yes that much. That’s why we do the beer thing. *This issue only, in honor of Bubbi Morthens, who would never want to have his name associated with beer, we have decided to rate his album in cups of coffee. The average price for a cup of coffee, is 250 ISK, half the price of a beer, so: 1 beer = 2 coffee cups. Reviewed by Páll Hilmarsson

Energy for life through forces of nature 2007

Celebrating 50 issues of the Reykjavík Grapevine We thank our readers and advertisers for making 50 issues of The Reykjavík Grapevine an enjoyable experience.

www.bluelagoon.com 38 airwaves airwaves 39

Nashville in the North Airwaves Highlights The 2006 Iceland Airwaves was as perfect as an Altman film The Best of the Best from the Best

by bart cameron photo by skari compiled by bart cameron photo by skari

In explaining the success of Iceland Airwa- wedged herself into the audience, only to frustrating, truncated effort last year that own celebrated show. Árni Plúseinn’s shows The star of the show in almost every way was Man Is God, the White Man Is the Devil. to hide the fact that one song rarely sounds but Cocktail Vomit did it with style. The ves, the organisers, Mr. Destiny, surprised notice that the man a few feet to her left had blew out Gaukurinn’s old sound system. Last with both Hairdoctor and FM Belfast were Valgeir Sigurðsson, whose new Bedroom Described by attendee Stephen Frew as “the much different than the next. quartet’s disco-techno set could have easily me by explaining that 9/11 had a strong overimbibed. As he threw up on himself, she year, Einar Örn came off as a punk icono- pitch perfect, as were Lovisa’s shows both as Community label served as the evening’s David Beckham of the alternative Icelandic That matters none to a crowd that just wants devolved into a farce with lines like “He had a effect on the festival. Coming up on 2001, realised that not only could she not flee, but clast loner, this year, as an artist comfortable Lay Low and with the Benny Crespo’s Gang. thread and whose performance – egoless, music scene” on account of his messy blond to jump around, and Ninja held the sweaty really cute boner” and “I have a fatal disease / Airwaves featured large acts, and that year the heat of the overpacked venue and the lack at on the edge, in very good company here in Compared with these bands who seemed seated off to the side of a large group includ- locks and rugged good looks, Valur came off room in her palm. She worked for it with My skin is smellin’ like cheese,” but legendary they planned on featuring the Gorillaz. of ventilation would in fact keep the smell of Iceland. so excited about music and performing that ing strings, laptops, and drums – captured as Chris Martin with a sac and a sense of hu- excess pep and vigour, and she got there. Josh producer Þórhallur Skúlason’s disco-techno Instead, with their international audience the man’s stomach acid at its most pungent. Finally, regarding location, the off-venue they likely would have played a bus stop every ear in the room when it was loud and mour, as adept at writing pensive love songs as Modell on The Go! Team. tracks kept the focus from falling too heavily not willing to get on a plane, they went local, Gaukurinn was such a bad venue that it shows complemented the festival perfectly lavatory had they been offered a mic, the when it wasn’t. he was at covering Montell Jordan. Joel Hoard on the goofy lyrics. Also featuring a guitarist went small, and found themselves with a became a story, somewhat celebrated. MTV this year. 12 Tónar hosted decent events, Kaiser Chiefs, this year’s resident divas, came Subdued and slowly captivating, Sigurðs- on Helgi Valur. in a purple tracksuit and two platinum-blonde gorgeous little festival that featured the city was rumoured to have fled the venue during though the cancellation by Brazilian Girls off as bigger assholes than they probably ac- son’s compositions – his first since stepping The easy highlight was Stórsveit Nix Nol- beauties on vocals, Cocktail Vomit capped off of Reykjavík as much as anything else. They the We Are Scientists gig on Wednesday, was a letdown, Smekkleysa gave a few local tually are. They famously brought their own out of the shadows as a producer/collaborator tes, fresh-faced kids manning two trumpets, a hit-or-miss evening with a bang. Joel Hoard found gold. fearing for their safety. There was the above bands an extra venue and Kaffi Hljómalind, entourage and isolated themselves. To their with Björk, Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy, and others Mr. Silla and Mongoose had a tough act to tuba, trombone, accordion, violin, cello, two on Cocktail Vomit. This year, Mr. Destiny seemed to vomit story. By the time visiting writer Nick which feels like it has been the centre of credit, isolation for the Kaiser Chiefs seems – play out like breathing little symphonies, follow, and they delivered to a nearly ridicu- guitars and drums. They blasted ahead with perfect the elusive formula that they started Catucci, who made his reputation covering Reykjavik music for decades, not months, like a good strategy. Their show, which felt pulsing with classical energy but infused with lous degree. Whatever her name might be, action-packed Eastern European rave-ups developing in 2001. Without any central the indie scene throughout Brooklyn and injected life into the festival, first with a day to me a lot like karaoke on bingo night at an enough rock life that they never get dull. It’s Mr. Silla illustrated that when channelled that managed to sound both virtuoso and From his very introduction “Hey! I am DJ stars, without any one attraction other than New York for the Village Voice, declared of hardcore, and then with a surreal perfor- old folks’ home, demonstrated that beyond that rare music perfect for sitting in a dark- properly, there is no more potent weapon in soused at the same time: Prog-y rhythms, cut Platurn from Oakland, California… but I the city, the 2006 Airwaves proved to be that Gaukurinn was “the most dangerous ve- mance by Tilly and the Wall. their ability to write an occasional hook, the ened bedroom or shuffling in a big club. Josh the musical lexicon than the female voice. up Klezmer beats, rapid-fire solo sections and originally come from Stykkishólmur!” DJ as perfect a festival as Iceland has seen. In nue I have ever entered” we started thinking band is without stage presence, style, humour Modell on Valgeir Sigurðsson. With the smoky sweetness of Billie Holiday multi-layered interplay. The drummer rocked. Platurn had the credibility to bring some fact, judging by the comments of our visiting of the place as supernatural. Top billing or charisma. And, had they let people talk working in tandem with the sharp elbows of Couples danced. Christian Hoard on Stórsveit irony into the night. In an abstract and writers, the 2006 Airwaves was as good For the record, I caught wind that The concept for this article is that this year’s to them, someone may have asked why their Björk, Mr. Silla had the overflow audience Nix Noltes. deconstructive set, largely played on funky music festival as has been put together in the Gaukurinn is allowed about 600 people, Airwaves reached a level that a truly brilliant record has 30 guitars, but their live perfor- Those able to see Mugison (for some reason in the palm of her hand. Don Bartlett on Mr. breaks and aggressive breakbeat, he succeeded last decade… anywhere. By the end of the according to fire code. Of course, as it is Altman movie reaches, that inexplicable mance just sounds like someone pushed the the police stopped people from entering the Silla and Mongoose. in finally capturing the growing crowd with weekend, I had started thinking of Airwaves a two-floor bar usually, and as during this moment when excellent performances, scene, demo on a Casio keyboard while beating on venue just before he took the stage at 23:00) From France came straight-edgers Gojira. an overwrought and doped-down remix of DJ as the ultimate ensemble cast Robert Altman festival it only used the first floor, that figure nuance, come together for a massive, unique a kickdrum and asking their soused uncle to was treated to a gorgeous set highlighted by They joined in a prayer, popped a sugar cube Shadow’s “Organ Donor”. Fabrizio F on DJ film; this year’s 147 bands were arranged to should have been revised. It was cute and whole. The most obvious reason for the ana- recite nursery rhymes. pedal steel guitar player Pétur Hallgrímsson, The pleasant surprise of the night belonged to and hit the stage hardcore. Fronted by a Platurn. capture the imagination, to show a glimpse funny to suffocate at Gaukurinn this year, logy: the cast list. If you had a pleasant time To repeat, it is likely that the Kaiser playing only his second show with the band. locals Benny Crespo’s Gang, who looked great Fabio-kind-of-handsome frontman, featuring of intelligence, but they were also left to keep but if someone tries this again, it will be at Airwaves this year, you likely enjoyed ei- Chiefs are not bad people. But for the pur- Mugison danced his way through older mate- and knew when to hold back and when to lay a bass player who defied logic, and a drum- their individuality, and, honestly, none were simply criminal. ght bands, two of whom you expected to see, poses of this year’s festival, it was absolutely rial and a new track that he called “the best it on – a welcome change after three sets of mer who managed to reach impossible speeds The lack of oxygen inside overly crowded allowed to steal the show. A few bands managed to perform well one that you had actually heard long before thrilling to watch the one band who acted song he ever wrote,” before blowing his load little variation. Josh Modell on Benny Crespo’s on the double kickdrum, Gojira are likely the Gaukurinn might be a key factor why half despite Gaukurinn, especially We Are you started getting ready for the festival. like stars perform as badly as they did, just on I Want You. The song has an immediacy Gang. tightest band on the planet. Spot-on in the of the people flushed out after Wolf Parade’s Location, location, location… Scientists, The Whitest Boy Alive, Wolf This year, it seemed as though Mr. as it felt somewhat life-affirming to see how in a live setting that leads you to believe he political debate, they started their show with show, but those who stuck around for the last While we’re working the film analogy, the Parade and Whomadewho, and, on Sunday, Destiny had sent out a memo to the visi- well some of the members of Islands played might file it in the non-fiction section of his the sound of whale song. They created the two acts of the night were in the mood to locations, or venues, were the most talked Patrick Watson and local bands My Summer ting bands, all of them save one performed as they joined Patrick Watson for an extra, mind. Raw and moving, it is infused with the Most bands probably feel that goading audi- first real movement of the night with an actual party. So was Jan Mayen. Kicking off with about aspect of the festival, at least at our as a Salvation Soldier and time-tested live without ego, treating locals as casual friends, free show to close out Airwaves. horrible desperation that comes a moment ences into cheering is cheesy, and most of the mosh-pit erupting centre stage. In fact, said pit Shut Up Shut Down, Jan Mayen blew the offices. The Gaukur á Stöng of this year may acts Jan Mayen, Jeff Who?, Hölt Hóra and many even getting involved in extra perfor- Like an Altman film, the festival even after you realise it’s too late. Don Bartlett on time it is, but if that’s what your band is all affects the writing here as I was stuck in the crowd away immediately, drawing the now have been the single most hated venue this Hairdoctor. mances. Erlend Øye of The Whitest Boy seemed to have a loose kind of moral that so Mugison. about…Then you’re called The Go! Team, pit. At one point, I had to retrieve my notebook sweaty and intoxicated bodies closer to the side of Rhode Island. (Yes, that’s a Great Þjóðleikhúskjallarinn (listed as Natio- Alive seemed to jump into any show in town, many of us picked up on. Like the moral in Britain’s five-to-seven-piece (depending on from the floor, resulting in cigarette burns and stage with a vivacious performance, dynamic White concert joke, and yes, it is too soon.) nal Theatre Basement this year) and Iðnó as did Islands frontman Nick Diamons. an Altman film, it’s best not to oversimplify the song) musical answer to the peppiest gang maimed fingers…As the venue slowly filled sound and one punchy track after another. To explain the hatred, here’s an anecdote were the gems of the festival. Featuring less The local and visiting performers who and distil this moral… it was there, it had so- Helgi Valur and his backing band the She- of cheerleaders ever assembled. Their album, up, Gojira got the brunt of a NASA ovation. Singer Valli, blessed with a voice twice his from our own Steinunn Jakobsdóttir, who well-known line-ups, these venues charmed decided to play with different bands, who mething to do with the reason behind beauty, Males took the stage next with an eclectic the fun, engaging, sample-tastic Thunder, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson on Gojira. size, might not seem like a rock star when was assigned to take over reporting from the audiences, reporters and bands. Maybe the decided to take chances and play casually, fit and the reason things get corrupted, and so- mix of blue-eyed soul and covers of American Lightning, Strike, can’t really be re-created passing him on the street, but he sure as hell venue after yet another reporter said, “I’ll co- best example of how much a venue affects a in best. Benni Hemm Hemm found himself mehow, in the odd week of Iceland Airwaves, hip-hop staples like Snoop Dogg’s Gin and live, so The Team – led by a ridiculously looks like one when fronting a band that must ver anything, just get me out of Gaukurinn.” band, affects an experience, was Ghostigital’s performing with at least four bands, among the people who deserved to do well did. Juice and Onyx’s Slam, both of which will enthusiastic singer named Ninja – grab crowds Only the rarest of acts can pull off an uptempo rank with Reykjavík’s best. Steinunn Jakobsdot- Our hearty Icelandic reporter took over, set this year at Iðnó, compared with their them Skakkamanage, Jens Lekman and his appear on his forthcoming faux-LP The Black with sing-alongs and enough driving rhythm song about leprosy without sounding schticky, tir on Jan Mayen. 40 fiction fiction 41

‘JÓN’ – the black plastic strip with his name in white letters sat about catching attention, creating substantial work and getting pub- Uchronia next to the lens, the dot over the O painted. When he took the cap off lished every month. The stress kept him intense and excited. He knew the lens dimly reflected his square face: his sharp cheekbones and high he had been lucky – his friendship with Tony was pure luck though BY SIGRÚN DAVÍDSDÓTTIR forehead hovered over the big, deeply set eyes, tightly framed by the Tony’s version was: ‘the harder you try the luckier you get.’ dark limp hair – he brushed it behind his ears with both hands; a nerv- He sat up in bed and reached for a folder with photos: the same ously comforting habit. He was reasonably tall though two cm shorter familiar and friendly face on all the photos, taken over about a quarter A FAIRY TALE I would ask her to sing the song about the rock. It started with than Lisa, who was unusually tall, even for a Danish girl. Her portfolio of a century. ‘My grandmother told me...’ – I understood that my great grandmoth- stated: height 181 cm, bust 85 cm, waist 62 cm, hips 89 cm. The chair-series was the first he had seen of her – at an American Once Upon a Time...? And what happened then? er, then only a child, had seen the rock open at sunset on a Sunday, His bony body under the duvet was a variation of his square face. photo-exhibition at the Art Museum in Reykjavík. Thirteen years old What came first, the fairies or the fairy tales? Who knows, but those when the fairies celebrated mass. She ran away and later told my aunt In spite of his 33 years it still held on to the all-legs-and-arms teenage and already a walking encyclopaedia of all things photo-technical he who grow up with the tales live in fairy tales for the rest of their lives. never to go near the rock at that time. proportions. Not even Lisa could make well-cut clothes sit properly on was convinced that technical specifications made photos good. Later Invariably sad, the tales are about longing but their sadness is just one Whenever I heard the song I was relieved she ran away; other- him. His usually unshaven face and careless way of dressing gave him a he learned that photos are good in spite of the camera, not because of thread in the colourful tales – not sadness that should be cured. wise, my aunt would then have been a fairy with no tales to tell – you barbaric look. She said he looked as if he came from some savage place. it; he still found it difficult to comprehend that photography is about The fairies lived in a big rock, close to the farm, which must have been cannot tell tales of yourself. My mother, my aunt’s youngest sister, She was right: in comparison to New York he did come from barbarian exposing what others do not see, so he focused on what he himself saw. in the South East of Iceland where the tales come from. They were tall would have been a fairy as well and never have met my father, who lands – she seemed to resent it but he found it comforting: it saved him The chair-photos were the only ones he remembered from the and looked like you and me, though more beautiful than any human grew up in a different part of the country, where reportedly there were from merging with the masses of the megacity. exhibition, which he visited every day it lasted: he had heard about can ever hope to be. They always seem far away even when standing no fairies – at least not in tales I heard. And I would not have been He looked up at the window above the bed: closing his eyes he the exhibition by coincidence – art had been beyond his horizon at close by, perhaps because they dress in blue – the colour of distance born and more than I can imagine had never happened. visualised the morning light on street outside. During the first months the time. When the staff noticed it a journalist came to interview him – and never follow trodden roads. Yet, the fairy world did reach me. My aunt told me that her in New York he was enchanted by the city – until the images from and one of his own photos was printed with the interview: a photo of They lived a life of plenty and brought luck to the farm. When grandmother loved music above all else and had claimed that whenever the countryside, where he spent the summers of his childhood, re- Skeidarár-sand. His granny had been very proud of the interview. Oth- the farmer’s wife had been fetched to assist at a difficult fairy-child- she heard music she would hear the sound of the fairy music. When emerged: the low summer sun intensified the colour-scale of the Ice- ers in his family found his obsession ridiculous or even embarrassing birth or the farmer had saved a fairy child from drowning they were my aunt moved from the farm to Reykjavík, she learned to play the pi- landic wilderness, lava-black, glacier-white, sea-grey and foggy bluish though no one mentioned it; no one said much about anything. rewarded with precious gifts, a silver belt or a silk scarf. Kind words ano. She played for me and her music was unlike any music I have ever distance until the winter darkness wiped them out. The land fanning His relatives were all farmers apart from his father who had were honoured with a bowl of fresh milk or a piece of salted mutton. heard full of light and melody, but also of profound longing, which out from the tiny capital was made of long shadows, or, for most of been forced to move to Reykjavík because of hay fever. His parents Some of those who had seen the rock open said it emitted enticing – as I later understood – kept her alive; longing she instilled in me. the year, of darkness and no shadows, of few words but many tales he would have liked him to study law or engineering, like his three older light, permeated with music, others that the enticing music was perme- She lived in her tiny flat in Reykjavík with a piano and my other aunt, had mostly forgotten; the tales grew out of a landscape too barren for brothers: at his age, his brothers had all been doing well, living with ated with light. and only had what she owned. I left, found music, light and the hope anything else. their children and childhood girlfriends-turned-wives in big houses in The tiny rooms at the farm were filled with dim light and fumes of unknown things. Yet, like everyone who lives in fairy tales I never Photos had brought him to New York. After dropping out of attractive parts of Reykjavík. from cod oil lamps. The only music came from the squeaky organ in escaped the inherent sadness of my aunt’s tales – but that is nothing to college several times in Iceland, working in a fish factory, on a trawler The first photo exhibition he saw in New York was a Roberto the tiny church, accompanying the hoarse voices of the churchgoers. be sad about. and at a building site as he partied away his earnings, he was no longer Nettuno retrospective. Women had been Nettuno’s favourite subject With plenty of everything, even sugar, raisins and coffee, yes even rock failing aimlessly and not caring about it. New York was turning him especially his wife. The chair-series and other photos of her filled candy, the fairy life would be much sweeter than on the farm. On the 1. PHOTO: THE LENS into someone who, frame by frame, was building a life out of just the the main hall. That was where he met her again, in the photos – long farm each day was firmly tied to the seasons a repetition of the past. things he lived for almost like in one of his granny’s fairy tales. before he would discover that life is laced with incidents, which at first Fairy tales belong to Uchronia, beyond time, where hope of better ‘I’m an accident waiting to happen. But don’t worry, I won’t be caught His new life was connected to the old one by a five-hour flight appear coincidental. things lives – better in an unimaginable way because there have never on camera – of course I’m behind the camera!’ Quite out of charac- and telecommunications and yet disconnected from it all. Life in Looking at the chair-series he spread out on the duvet was like been such times. Those who were lured by the luminous harmonies ter, perhaps because asleep he was completely serious as he explained New York was easy for an Icelander: either, people had no idea where meeting an old friend. Tony had told him that they were Nettuno’s were never seen again: the sweet life of light, music and hope would be this to Lisa, sitting on the bed in their Lower East Side studio. In his Iceland was or knew the nature was fantastic and the islanders barbaric first photos of her, taken before they got married. Her dark dress, lived in an eternal separation from the human world and the loved ones dream she was as awake as was he and no doubt happy to hear what enough to eat whales. He had learned the word ‘patronymic’ to explain stretched over her knees, had short sleeves and a boat-shaped neck- there. he was saying also how he said it: she always complained that he was that Icelandic surnames are not family names. It had only taken him line. Its soft material blurred her outlines against the white stiff fabric But if provoked, fairies were vengeful and cruel. The people on never serious about anything, least of all serious about his love for her. a few months to loose his ability to sleep in – the city was so intensely draped over the easy chair she sat in broken by the weight of her body. the farm knew they were always watched and the children were taught But how could he be serious about love? Awake or asleep: love demanding that he needed only four to six hours sleep as everyone else The series was called ‘Edda’. Tony said she was Icelandic but had been not to climb the rock or play anywhere near it. But on the day when is lightweight, pure oxygen; and just like oxygen, completely essential he knew there. living abroad since her youth; it had amused Nettuno, himself Italian, spring jumped from the calendar into the gentle breeze, the adults – especially physical love. Lisa, however, was hooked on talking about Six years of New York life had deepened his understanding that Edda was also an Italian name. might ignore the playing children, even join them – until someone love. He kept trying to teach her that life is about seeing and sensing, of who he was but coming from a landscape of strikingly few words The seven pictures were frontal, taken from the same spot. On looked back and saw the farm on fire. Shouts of joy turned into cries love being the proof – or so he thought at the time. he had no passwords to access his accumulating knowledge. Beside the first she leaned towards the camera with a straight back, crossing of fear and despair, but when they reached the farm there was no fire. As with oxygen there is not much to say about love: it either is words, good manners were also missing in his original landscape; Lisa her arms over her crossed knees, her fine hands tapering down. Her Fearful, they fixed their eyes to the ground – surely, the sinking sun – and then there is nothing more to say – or it is not and then you can- resented that he forgot to hold doors for her or wipe the raindrops off long legs, close together, leaned to the right. On the next ones, she had reflecting in the tiny windows had not fooled them. not talk it into your life anymore than you can talk yourself to oxygen her chair in an outdoor café. But why should he? In this crowded place her legs over the arms of the chair, her toes pointed like a ballerina. On After a cold summer or when a child had been born the grass on if you are out of breath. Love is like that, beyond words; if it can be there were always plenty of others to do it – especially for a gorgeous the last one she sat as on the first, her legs to the left. the rock looked buttery. For days they would comment on it, until the caught in words it is not love. Love is tactile, olfactory, visual, visceral girl like Lisa. Years ago when he had tried all the technical tricks he could farmer himself, without uttering a word, would take his scythe and and not substantial enough to be photographed. It does not make sense One night just after they had met, they were walking home from think of to emulate this airiness he had finally concluded that there slowly cut the grass around and on the rock. The farm-girl who had a in music because it does not make any sense at all – if it makes sense it a party. Furious, Lisa claimed he had ignored her the whole evening. was no trick. The inherent heaviness of Nettuno’s deep focus and crush on him and was hated by his wife followed him with her rake. is not love. As usual, he kept quiet: other people’s anger is like a storm – nothing diffused light, accentuated by the monochrome dark background, At supper no one said a word – words brought deeds to life and silence No, he neither had the words for all this nor for his love of Lisa. to do but wait it out. His silence fuelled her anger. Less drunk than contrasted her shiny and clear face but the lightness emanated from the undid them. But as morning broke and the wife got up to milk, she He was only madly in love with her: the fun-loving yet responsible, he was, she talked loudly, gesticulating with her umbrella, when she radiant girl. He also saw this now, when he scrutinised the clippings. found the best cow stone dead. clever, bossy and beautiful Lisa. And since the three words – ‘I’ ‘love’ suddenly hit him on his thigh with it. He hardly felt it, but her silly The pointed chin exaggerated the oval shape of her small girlish These were the tales my aunt told me. They were in me, and my ‘you’ – turned her on he used them frequently; there and then he was behaviour annoyed him; he had only been thinking about some photos face. She had high cheekbones, a fine nose and a somewhat pouting language long before I imagined I could live elsewhere and in other equally sure he seriously loved her and that love was never serious. he had messed up. Irritated, he wrenched the umbrella out of her hand, mouth. Her thick blond hair was held back in a high ponytail, a few languages than Icelandic. I had seen the rock, close to the vicarage He was waking up just as he preferred: drifting from sleep through broke it over his knee, threw the pieces over a fence and walked on. escaped curls framed her face. The round cheeks gave the impres- where my grandfather served. Now, no one lived there but the tales lucid dreams into conscious thoughts. Or as conscious as is possible for She gasped. sion of a chubby girl but she was in fact slim. Judging from the chair were as true as the farm was real. someone who is more of a doer than a thinker. Lately, she said he was getting better at talking. No wonder: in she was probably not tall but her long limbs and long neck were well I knew the names on every tombstone in the tiny churchyard His unlived life this particular sunny April morning started with New York, everyone he knew regarded silence as an embarrassment. proportioned – a miniature of a model. – it was like visiting distant relatives: faceless when out of sight but fa- a sense of wetness: his back and chest were sweaty a warm stickiness in Lisa was lying on her stomach. The light from the windows She was tangible, at ease and frank, like children are in photos miliar when present. Reading the names I would calculate, with some his crotch. He liked the elusive moment of wet dreams when the sensa- accentuated her striking features. Her fine nose under the long, thin – as if she belonged to no time but her own. With her eyes on the difficulty, how long they had lived. Their age was always the same tion was there but he was still unaware of it being only a dream. This almost straight brows in her oval face, her closed almond eyes and the camera, she had the teasing candour of a girl who is showing off, while though mine increased between my visits. The female names with the time there was also a slight sense of guilt – a distant face, not Lisa’s, had faint smile on her thin lips displayed her photogenic qualities that the giving nothing away. Though serene the vibrant tension in her slender shortest lives, some shorter than my own, made me shudder. been in his mind that moment – a tickling feeling of being unfaithful. camera could use to create whatever illusion needed. body created an intriguing ambiguity – the perfect model. The low green mountain above the farm was flat at the top like Though not actively so, he would keep quiet about it – to Lisa. Taking photos of her was a kick: she did not just pose in front Jón replaced the photos in the folder and observed Lisa through the other mountains in sight. Even a little girl could walk all the way The dilemma of unconscious unfaithfulness would be the right of the camera to be pretty but moved and had fun. Things were going the camera: her long sleek hair lay like a white chiffon veil on the dark up – I could. The clouds, too lazy to hang in the sky, languished on the topic to discuss with ever-clever Tony, nine years his senior, eloquent well for her. She had come to New York only two years earlier, already blue pillow. He pushed the button several times, she did not move. She horizon until the mountains swallowed them to reveal the sky, blue as since the day he was born, brought up on the way from museums to twenty years old, without contacts or brilliant photos in her portfolio. might not like the pictures, but they would surprise her; usually, she fairy clothes. concert halls, visiting relatives all over the world, as stereotypically Strong-willed, she had been able to make the best of what she had. He woke up first. My father had told me that rocks, like icebergs, only show their tips, cosmopolitan as he himself was provincial. They were both late-start- admired her abilities though her scrutiny could be taxing – he himself It was a series of Lisa, called ‘A Girlfriend’, which had won him extending much further down than I could imagine. The rock was the ers; Tony had gone into journalism after a failed career in his family’s had the tendency to drift around hoping things would turn out well. the commission: a portrait to accompany an introduction by Nettuno’s size of a turf cottage surrounded by the meadow that fed the few cows investment company. So far, they generally had. widow in the book Tony was writing on Nettuno. She had seen his se- on the farm and each day in the life of a cow gave tepid milk that kept As he opened his eyes, the lens drew him into his New York re- He was not arrogant, but knew what he wanted and hated to be ries at the graduation show the previous year and asked Tony to contact someone alive. I only drank cold milk from our American fridge. ality: the bed where Lisa slept next to him. He reached for the camera, told what to do; he had never considered anything but being freelance. him. Now that Tony was about to finish the book the day of the shoot The rock was as tangible as the tales. Though they contained the last thing he had looked at before falling asleep – ever since he first When friends and family asked how his career was going he was still had come – the day but not the hour. death, fire and the threat of disaster, I wanted to hear them again and held a camera, as a boy, it had given him an existential right and wiped not sure if this series of happy accidents merited the word ‘career’, but again: there was always the chance that this time everything would out his shyness. Like an actor before a performance he was always his professional life seemed to be moving on. The above is an excerpt from Sigrún Davíðsdóttir’s upcoming novel Uchronia. be all right. It never was and yet I longed for them because they came nervous before shooting portraits. Especially today, it was his first The book commission was a major break – he had hardly with my aunt’s embrace, her smile and warm scent of stale eau de commission for a book. Shooting the widow, who had to be an expert believed his own eyes when he saw the first e-mail from Tony on his cologne. on both photos and photographers. screen – but he knew that no single commission secured him. It was all 42 interview War is a Priority Consideration – Peace a Secondary Thought Philosophy of non-violence

by sveinn birkir björnsson photo by skari

Professor Kit Christensen of Bemidji State growth of social justice, which then re-enforc- University in Minnesota holds a doctorate in es non-violent approaches to future conflict philosophy from Purdue University. His main resolution, which then makes for more peace academic focus has been political philosophy or establishes the conditions of peace more and philosophy of peace. Prof. Christensen firmly, which enhances social justice, so really, recently taught a seminar in the philosophy you can start anywhere with that circle and department of the University of Iceland on work towards the other end. the philosophy of non-violent actions. The Grapevine sat down with Prof. Christensen to /// How do you answer people like professor learn a little more on war and peace. Ward Churchill, who has taken a very criti- cal stance of the pacifist doctrine, labelling /// Perhaps you could describe the contents it as ineffective, and has said that all the of the course you are teaching in a few major victories of pacifism could have been words? achieved much earlier in an armed struggle? - Well this is actually a concentrated ver- – Well it can be difficult to answer. Frantz sion of a full-semester course I teach at my Fanon is another one, in his book The university back home. It is an attempt to take Wretched of the Earth, he makes a compel- a philosophical look at peacemaking activities. ling case for a pacifist. He was originally from There have been many organised institutional the Caribbean, and ended up living in Algeria efforts to look at means of conflict resolution during the liberation from France where the and to minimise violence in the world. I try to French systematically… well, there were of take a step back from that concern with peace- course such massive atrocities on both sides. making, and look at some of the underlying Anyway, he was a psychiatrist and ended up values at work. The course is really about non- interviewing a lot of Algerian torture victims violence and its relationship to peacemaking and he concluded that at some point, you need and how that relates to social justice. People to take up the gun. There is no other way. It is are always linking peace and justice, and I really a compelling case that he makes and it look at how all those terms are interconnected, is tough for pacifists to deal with. I struggled We deliver it clean. but again, from a philosophical standpoint. with that myself. We look mostly at moral concerns. It is kind I must admit, I do not take an absolute of like a course in applied ethics. view on pacifism by any means. I am still try- ing to decide for myself, and I am constantly /// So it is a course on war and peace? evolving in my thinking regarding when you – We do talk about war quite a bit of course, get to a point when some sort of organised Have a dirty time! and how peace can be a better alternative armed response to oppression or violence – it (Book our nice prices at www.sixt.is or call 540 2222) and what is wrong with war and how people would have to be a defence action of some justify war and how that is not convincing sort – can be justified. But I do not take an most often. But we also talk about interper- absolute view that would say that all organised sonal violence, and institutional or structural group violence is always wrong. But I think violence, which is sort of an odd concept. the burden of proof should always be on those Basically it refers to stratified social systems who argue for violent means, not the other where some people are more vulnerable to way around. other kinds of violence because of where they If we know one thing about any kind of are in the social hierarchy, so basically, poor war, it is that it will involve carnage, it will people are more likely to be victims of violent involve flying body parts, people scream- crimes, but also they are likely to have greater ing and death and destruction, not just for health problems. This is directly related to military personnel, but for innocent civilians where they are in the social hierarchy and they as well. So, assuming that this is a bad thing are being made vulnerable to injury, to harm, that should be avoided whenever possible, if just by their place in a stratified social system, it is to be used, there better be a very good and that is to be victimised by violence too in reason. Now, that may seem obvious, but the its own right. way the policymaking and public pronounce- ment works in the modern world, the burden /// So this would link back to the justice of proof is always on the pacifist. The burden factor? of proof has been shipped back to those who – Yes, very much so. The critique of unjust are against war, and those who argue for war social systems tends to point to what is often seem have a sort of priority consideration. called institutional violence. That seems perverse to me.

/// You mentioned different definitions of /// What would be a justified war? peace, maybe you could explain that a bit – That is the tough question. Many people better, are there many definitions of peace? point to World War II as really the only ex- – People often make a distinction between ample of a justified war in modern times. The negative peace and positive peace. Negative war against fascism(s). If anything was a good peace is merely the absence of war or violence, war, that one was. But at the same time, if you which is a good thing, but for sustainable only look at that period, from 1939-1945, then peace, you want to create positive peace, you really ignore what led to WWII, which which is a situation of social justice. In his is World War I, an unjustified war by most Letter from the Birmingham Jail, Martin standards. /// I wonder if you could draw the analogy is very profitable for some. In a number of Luther King, Jr. talks about negative peace In a sense, the German response was a between how the institutional violence in European countries, as well as the U.S. and as simply putting a lid on the problem, but of response to the defeat of WWI and the awful Germany pushed them into the WWII and Canada, there are corporations that make a lot course, when you use that image, like putting economy during the depression that followed. how things are developing in the Middle of money not only by providing materials for a lid on a pot of boiling water, it will eventu- If other things would have happened during East at the moment? Are we creating a simi- the so-called Weapons of Mass Destruction, ally boil over. So negative peace is to just avoid the 1920s and 1930s, the Nazis would never lar situation? but more importantly for the basic conven- tension and confrontation, but positive peace have come to power and it would not have – Well, of course now we are predicting the tional weapons, plus all these little creative is to change society so that people can live in been an issue. Italy was not going to try to future, but I think you are right. It is certainly things like Napalm and Daisy Clusters, who mutual respect, and equal opportunity to ex- take over the world on its own, and there was possible. Recently a report came out of the mostly end civilian lives. Private entrepre- ercise their potential. Positive peace is always a good chance the U.S. and Japan did not have U.S., by the combined intelligence services of neurs, good capitalists, sell them all over the the real goal. to go to war. The Pacific war was less justified the U.S., which basically said what many crit- world. in some sense, the fact that Japan bombed a ics of the war in Iraq had said all along, that We can think about institutional violence /// So social justice is really the goal? colony of the U.S. and killed a lot of Ameri- basically, the Iraq war has not diminished the in a global sense, there are populations that – Well you may have heard the slogan ‘No cans, that was seen as the pretext for retalia- threat of terrorism, but has in fact increased are predictably low down on the economic Justice, No Peace’. It is meant as a kind of tion, but again, according to just war theory, it, creating more terrorists and jihadists. So, ladder, and often there is racial divide or an warning by the exploited or the oppressed. revenge and retaliation is never a good reason it has made the problem worse. So certainly, ethnic divide as well. And they seem to be Until there is justice, in some meaningful way, to go to war. Ever. there is evidence that would point in that predictably more vulnerable to these kinds of there can be no peace. It is a precondition. direction. You would think that people who violence than the more affluent peoples, who But if you think about it there are a number of /// What you are saying is that WWII was study history and end up in politics or the also tend to be white, in the northern part of mutually re-enforcing phenomena here. Non- created by an institutional violence on a military would learn their lesson. the world. So there is kind of a global strati- violent conflict resolution sets up a situation global scale? But then again, maybe that is not the fied society where this concept also applies where you can have a peaceful environment, – Yes, I would say so. whole point, to bring about peace. There is that makes for an unjust world. which enhances the opportunities for the always that possibility. I mean, war making 44 travel

Outside Reykjavík Reykjanes presents

Icelandic folksongs

101 Gæludýr

Hafnarstræti 17 Opið virka daga 10 til 18.30 Laugardaga 11 til 17 Sunnudaga 13 til 16 Sími 552-9191 & 697-5280

Experiencing Aurora Borealis Underwater The Grapevine floats on at the Reykjanes resort

by haukur magnússon photo by julia staples

Four hours of driving unkept gravel roads, to some nice company and a few drinks kept the 20th century (whose buildings now house when they quit being babies). Hiking paths over mountains, across fjords, will take you poolside. Most folks tend to soak themselves the hotel). around the peninsula and the nearby moun- from Reykjavík to Iceland’s other Reykjanes for several hours at a time. Accommodation at the Reykjanes hotel tains are numerous and meticulously marked peninsula, the one that’s happily free of The pool was built in 1934 to replace is of the standard Icelandic former-board- and mapped out (information can for instance international airports, chav culture and naval the older 1889 rock-and-dirt-based model ing school variety, both in terms of pricing be acquired at the hotel reception). bases. This peninsula’s claim to fame is an (although there are references to swimming and comfort. There are a number of double Another point of interest for the average Olympic-sized outdoor swimming pool (hot lessons being given there as early as the rooms available along with four fully func- aqua enthusiast is the fact that the surround- tub, really) filled with geothermal water and beginning of the 19th century – an Icelandic tional apartments, ideal for families or smaller ing fjords boast some of Iceland’s more other pleasantness that, when at its best, really anomaly), remnants of which are still visible. groups. Budget travellers may seek refuge in excellent ‘hidden’ geothermal hot tubs popular doesn’t compare to anything else Iceland has It was, until early last year, Iceland’s ‘longest’ sleeping bag accommodations or the accompa- among in-the-know locals who like to relax to offer. Add to that the fact that at certain swimming pool; although it was originally nying campsite, although that is not a feasible there, drink in hand, occasionally taking times (around midnight, for instance) Reyk- meant to be a modest 25-metre length the option for fall or wintertime visits. The hotel’s dips in the cold North Atlantic to stay awake janes and its charmingly rustic hotel/campsite carpenters apparently got confused with restaurant and bar are also reasonably priced, longer in the hot water. As they are in essence offer the kind of peace and quiet most tourists their measurements. As previously noted, it, offering breakfast and cake buffets along with ‘hidden’, a widely read publication such as the will happily travel across continents to reach Grapevine can’t really divulge their location, and you start wondering why the resort is one although most locals will be happy to give of Icelandic tourism’s best kept secrets. “Although baby seals are indeed beautiful, taking care directions when approached. No amount of words or pictures could Although the accompanying photo pro- possibly capture the Reykjanes pool in optimal of them can be a real bother. And they get pretty big vides an accurate portrayal of how Reykjanes All back issues available online conditions. Its raw concrete structure fits looked when the Grapevine paid its visit in surprisingly well with the area’s rugged geog- when they quit being babies.” late October, the surrounding scenery and raphy, underwater wooden benches provide conditions changed many times that day. 1400 articles, listings and daily news from Iceland a place to rest and contemplate the fact that Among other things, the West Fjords are while the wooden fencing blocks a potentially much like the rest of the area’s structures, is standard Icelandic road fare such as cheese- famous for rapidly changing weather and great view, it does provide convenient shelter geothermally heated, resulting in a comfort- burgers and fries. Bringing alcohol and food Reykjanes is no exception. During the day we from the wind. Plus, one side is unfenced and ably inconsistent average temperature and a to consume at the premises seems to be gener- spent there, we experienced bouts of sun- thus allows one to imagine the warm water warning sign gracing its banks: pool may be ally tolerated, although the usual civil rules shine, interspersed with rain, sleet, a calm blending in with the clear, clean sky, the extremely hot, patrons enter at their own risk. apply, the resort being a private enterprise. and a storm – every hour the area’s appear- sometimes-angry ocean or even the mountains Reykjanes is actually one of the few The fabled swimming pool is luckily free of ance changed dramatically. Worse luck was looming afar. geothermally active regions on the West Fjord charge and open ‘round the clock. the fact that the much-hyped pool was in the Floating in the pool during sunlit summer peninsula, Iceland’s oldest geological area. While the joys of the Reykjanes pool process of being re-filled after cleaning (as no nights invites many a curiosity; some whip- Its potency has long been known; it was the can’t be overemphasised, there are of course chlorine is used, the water needs to be drained poorwills and ducks may decide to lounge site of Iceland’s first professional salt refinery, other things to do while staying there. The occasionally), which unfortunately rendered it there with you or a drunk French tourist will which was in operation from 1770-90. It even area boasts a varied (for Iceland, anyway) useless for the duration of our stay. We made choose to inform you of his nation’s immi- saw a successfully operated, geothermally fauna, and is therefore an ideal retreat for do with the homely sauna-shack and the nu- grant policy. Or, on crisp winter evenings, powered greenhouse (much like the ones in bird-watchers and other nature enthusiasts. A merous secret pools, vowing to one day return clear, starlit skies may suddenly transform into Hveragerði) for half a decade in the 1930s, five-minute walk to the nearby shore may ex- for the full experience that has thus far failed a bright canvas displaying the amazingly vivid until its progenitor lost interest in the project pose one to overtly friendly baby seals that are to disappoint. aurora borealis that, reflected in the water’s for whatever reason. Reykjanes also hosted a known to follow tourists around in the hope Arts | Music | Movies | Dining | Shopping | Traveling shiny black surface, seems to envelope you spa-like resort some 50 years ago, but among of making friends (a bad idea: although baby More information on Reykjanes can be found at completely. You may of course encounter none Icelanders, it is best known for the boarding seals are indeed beautiful, taking care of them www.rnes.is or by calling 456-4844. Interviews | Local Voice | Columns | Features | Lifestyle | Editorials of those things, but still leave satisfied due school operated there for the greater part of can be a real bother. And they get pretty big 46 parting shot

Kristján Loftsson, CEO of Hvalur HF, contemplates what to do with his whale carcass. Photo by Skari.

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Do you want to place In Iceland there are many beautiful places to explore that can only be visited with the a classified ad? help of a jeep. Instead of being in a crowded tour bus you can plan a trip on your own. Call 540-3605 or email us Hertz has a great variety of jeeps and 4WD vehicles to choose from. We have 7 rental at [email protected] locations around Iceland and several service stations along the way. WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS +354 50 50 600 • www.hertz.is We are your car rental experts in Iceland. Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS grapevine.is

REYKJAVÍK´S YOUR FREE COPY ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER ISSUE seventeen: november 3 - november 30

Stuffed with stuff

If the persona of Bubbi Morthens had been some sort of a pillar in my life, I would probably have said: Fuck you! You fucking capi- talist! Bubbi Morthens on Bubbi Morthens Page 20

It is interesting to note that it almost seems like everybody just takes for granted that the media is manipulated, and that corruption rules how most public servants get hired.” Journalist Sigtryggur Ari Jóhannsson, on the Icelandic way of doing things. Page 6

“No, we kidnapped the real Daft Punk in Paris and came here pretending to be them.” Daft Punk Thomas Bangalter jokes around Page 35

“I actually have an idea for a horror film I want to shoot entirely in Iceland. It’ll be called Culture Night. I was here for the last one, and I’m basically going to get a cam- era and walk up and down Laugavegur… No, not killing anyone, just documenting the insanity.” Director Eli Roth is fascinated by the ooz- ing culture Page 10

“Nation-states have got to learn how to respect interna- tional laws, before they can expect individuals to respect the law.” Sea Shepard’s Paul Watson discusses international politics Page 18

“It is sad to say that since 1996 the number of shops in the centre has been decreas- ing and hit rock bottom three years ago with a total of less than 300 shops.” Downtown developer Einar Örn Stefáns- son is concerned Miðasala í verslunum Skífunnar, BT Akureyri, Selfossi og Egilstöðum og á Midi.is Page 16 Miðaverð 5.000 kr (auk 350 kr miðagjald) í stæði / 6.500 kr (auk 440 kr miðagjald) í stúku