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2017 02 RAK P Food and Travel In the Footsteps of Bedouins The northern Emirate of Ras Al Khaimah is probably not the first place you think of when you plan to visit the United Arab Emirates, but this hidden gem on the Gulf coast is quickly emerging as one of the key cultural destination in the region. 52 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA GOURMET TRAVELLER RAS AL KHAIMAH FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 53 GOURMET TRAVELLER RAS AL KHAIMAH This page: falcon; old buildings. Opposite, clockwise from left: Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah golf course; Banyan Tree Ras Al Khaimah; mountaneous desert; Rixos Bab Al Bahr; Waldorf Ras Al Khaimah main entrance nlike in neighbouring Dubai where the culture and bars, a private beach, and a kids’ area make this a unique offering architecture is very modern, RAK’s relative obscurity has in RAK. No less Arabesque, and just as popular with locals, is the Uallowed the Emirate to retain much of its traditional Arab DoubleTree Marjan Island, a villa and apartment-style hotel with “the and Khaliji heritage. The hotels, although being western brands, best Italian restaurant in the UAE” according to the Turkish head have embraced their Arabian architectural roots; the attractions may chef at the Vespa restaurant. Emiratis are often seen here sampling be suited to foreign visitors, but that doesn’t mean they don’t give world cuisines. an important insight into local Bedouin traditions; and the untouched Al Marjan Island is a man-made archipelago comprising 4 coral natural sights are simply spectacular. islands shaped like a dolphin, a starfish, and a squid. Although Al Arguably one of the finest hotels in the UAE. the Waldorf Astoria Marjan is technically artificial, it looks like it could have risen from Ras Al Khaimah is nestled at the end of a private road in an the deep like this. As you walk along the narrow roads that run enclosed upmarket community, this imposing palace is a sandy along these islands, pause for a moment, take a deep breath of yellow beacon that encompasses every vision that visitors could fresh Gulf air, and just take it all in. Listen to the speedboats roaring ever have about the mysterious unexplored Arabian lands. The past, the rhythmic humming of the wind rushing between the Waldorf has its own 350-metre-long private beach complete with luxurious villas, and the splashing of the sea as it hits the shore. deckchairs and lifeguard, several pools, hideaways where the Only in the Gulf can you stand on a dolphin island and look back only sound to be heard is the howling of the wind circling around to the mainland as the sun begins to set behind the mosques and the rounded walls of the hotel, and 10 floors, each with its own hotels of Ras Al Khaimah. special charm. A short drive outside of central RAK, the Jazirat Al Hamra stands The rooms aren’t big, they don’t offer nice views, they are in defiance against the oil boom that has brought extreme wealth to absolutely huge and they host views across the beach and rippling the Emirates, hammering at the door of local Emiratis and reminding sea that you might not expect when you visit the Middle East. Every them what life was like before the discovery of natural resources. aspect of the rooms has been expertly designed to bridge the gap This former fishing village has been covered in a layer of sand, between Arabian heritage and luxury. The walls and carved ceilings creating an eerie ghost town; it’s almost like the desert is trying to have been painted in calming browns and beiges, the five reclaim land that was only ever given to people temporarily. Now the armchairs and sofas ensure that you can’t get tired when you walk crumbling buildings and simple architecture sits in the middle of from one end of the room to the other (they really are that big!), and reclaimed land, so you have to close your eyes and imagine that the marble balcony is like a postcard picture come to life. you are surrounded by seas filled with traditional fishermen in the If you can drag yourself away from the splendour and majesty of dhows, but Al Hamra is impressive nonetheless. the Waldorf’s nine restaurants, in-room coffee machine, and Can you imagine hundreds of local 16th century soldiers standing 18-hole golf course, then you will get to see why RAK is quickly in rows, complete with their white kanduras and swords overlooking emerging as a bucket list destination. You might choose to visit the the coast? When you visit Dhayah Fort, a towering square stone 5-star pink-toned Nubian style villas of Cove Rotana Resort and its fortification in the mountains surrounding the city that was originally Basilico Restaurant, sampling succulent lamb cutlets, cinnamon built to defend against a perceived British attack, these images sorbets and carpaccio salad. Or you could choose to venture a little really come to life. Local RAK citizens are proud of their formerly further away from the comfort of the Waldorf and explore what tribal identity; Dhayah and its stunning natural surroundings nature brings to this forgotten Emirate. undoubtedly contributed to protecting the way of life that some You may think that staying in a 5-star hotel is far from a local Bedouin tribes still live by high in the Jebel Jais mountains. experience, but you are probably more likely to meet a local Emirati Ras Al Khaimah is an Emirate of contrasts. At one end of the whiling away their weekend in RAK’s hotels than anywhere else in Sheikhdom you can find endless orange sand dunes for as far as the state. The Rixos Bab Al Bahr is a triplet of pyramid-shaped the eyes can see; fine rolling blankets of sand cover the surprisingly apartment blocks circled around what is essentially a self-enclosed smooth roads that twist and wind through the desert like a snake town; Italian, steak, Thai, French restaurants, nightclubs, pools and chasing its prey. And camels strip the acacia 54 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA GOURMET TRAVELLER RAS AL KHAIMAH FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55 GOURMET TRAVELLER RAS AL KHAIMAH Left to right: Ras Al Khaimah desert; oryx; Ras Al Khaimah bedouin oasis trees of their leaves, Oryx stand in the thick sand glaring at you as historic Arabian tradition that has become the synonymous image of you walk past, and the echoing of pure breed Arabian horses the Gulf. neighing echoes through the otherwise silent air from the Al Wadi You simply can’t visit this hidden gem on the Gulf coast without Equestrian Centre. This side of RAK is the typical image that most exploring the varied and exciting dining options available here, people have of the Arabian Peninsula. combining local Arabian favourites, Middle Eastern specialities, At the other side of the Emirate, near the border with the Sultanate somewhat unusual dishes, and interesting drinks. Succulent of Oman, the natural environment could not be more different. The roasted chicken covered in spices, soft yellow and white rice, sweet sand has been replaced by towering grey mountains and sheer currants, and bitter raw onions. Does this description alone make drops; you can zip-line down these at Via Ferrata. Roads become your mouth water? If it does, and it should, then a visit to the steeper and narrower. And the air becomes thinner as you progress authentic Emirati restaurant Al Fanar could be in order. As soon as higher and higher. When you finally reach the end of the road in the you walk through the heavy wooden doors you will be greeted with Jebel Jais mountains, some 1,892 metres above sea level, be the fragrant scent of floral hand wash and spices. Sand coloured prepared to be taken aback by the breath taking (literally!) views out walls and oak tables all add to the atmosphere of dining on to the Arabian Gulf, down to RAK city, and over the horizon as the traditional Emirati food in an authentic Emirati restaurant with real sun begins to set, casting an orange hue over the Emirati people. All of the dishes served here use craggy rocks. If you have time bring some food decades-old recipes and only the finest locally and have a picnic on the edge of a cliff, everyone sourced ingredients. The head chef, Mohammad, seems to do it here. ‘RAK’s relative describes the restaurant in one simple sentence: If you can’t get enough of the desert in RAK, obscurity has allowed “The only authentic Emirati restaurant in the and want to experience a little of what Arabia was the Emirate to retain world.” like before the discovery of oil broke the Emirati RAK is not the easiest Emirate to navigate as national bank account, then you are in luck. The much of its traditional there is no public transport, so hiring a tour guide Bedouin Oasis Camp is as close to pre-oil that Arab and Khaliji with an off-road car is the best option here. you can get in the UAE save pitching a camel skin Safarak’s drivers come from all around the world, tent in the middle of nowhere. The experience heritage.’ each offering a unique perspective on life in the spending the night amongst actual Bedouin UAE. But wherever they come from, the drivers people really is something else. Picture the pure are friendly, welcoming, knowledgeable about the desert skies gradually getting darker as the smoke of the barbeque hidden gems in the Emirate, and they care about their guests.
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