Wagon Tracks Volume 9 Issue 4 Wagon Tracks Volume 9, Issue 4 (August Article 1 1995)

1995 Wagon Tracks. Volume 9, Issue 4 (August, 1995) Santa Fe Trail Association

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VOLUME 9 AUGUST 1995 NUMBER 4 t:• ! DEATH ON THE TRAIL, 1828 I ,I MCNEES IDENTIFIED • by Harry C. Myers (Myers is the superintendent of Fort SYMPOSIUM COMING SOON Union National Monument. chairman THE biennial SFTA Symposium at of the SFTA 175th anniversary com­ Lamed and Great Bend. KS. Septem­ mittee. and afrequent contributor to ber 21-24. offers an outstanding pro­ WT. He has again located. new infor­ gram for participants. There will be mation about the early history of the TraU.) . lectures. tours. business meetings. entertalnment. and good food. IN August 1828 the eastbound cara­ The schedule and registration form van from Santa Fe crossed the Cana­ dian River and headed toward Point of were included In the last Issue of wr. and early registration is still recom­ Rocks and Rabbit Ears in north­ eastern New Mexico. Somewhere. mended. Send registration materials or direct questions about the sympo­ STEAMBOAT ARABIA probably close to Rabbit Ears. two citi­ sium to the coordinator. Steve Lin­ zens ofFrankUn. Missouri. named Mc­ by Sanle Liebler Nees and Munro left the train and derer. Fort Lamed NUS. RR 3. Lamed KS 67550. phone (316) 285-6911. We (Sanie Liebler; Oklahoma City. Olda­ traveled ahead. On the banks of Cor­ hope to see you there. homa. is a historian associated. with rumpa Creek Mthey having carelessly Kaw River Research. She worked on lain down to sleep ... were barba­ TOUR CANCELED the Arabia proJect.) rously shot (by Indians). with their It THE Smithsonian Santa Fe Trail tour THE 18508 are considered the Golden own guns. as was supposed. in very A~ sight of the caravan." When the cara­ scheduled for Septemher 8-17. 1995. ofthe Santa Fe Trail and the Gold­ A~ van arrived at the creek. McNees was has been canceled because of Insuffi­ en ofthe Missouri River steamboat trade. During this decade freight ton­ dead and Munro was barelyclingingto cient enrollment. It may be offered again In 1996. Leo and Bonita Oliva n~ carried by the caravans to Santa will be leading a l75th anniversary Fe reached its highest level to date. as "the Indians came and tour of the Trail for SFTA dUring the did the number of steamboats plying klld them boath" summer of 1996. covering the historic the lower Missouri Riverfrom St. Louis routes between Franklin andSantaFe. to Port of Kansas (Kansas City). The steam packet Arabia ran this stretch life. After burying McNees the caravan HARRY MYERS UVES ONI In 1855 and 1856 unttl It hit a snag moved on to the Cimarron River. forty and sank In Qutndaro Bend. one and Myers. superintendentofFort miles away. where Munro died and HARRy one-half miles below Parkville. MO. Union National Monument and chair­ Excavated In 1988-1989. the side­ was buried. Just as the funeral cere­ man of the SFTA 175th anniversary monies were about completed several wheeler's cargo and machinery can be committee. suffered a heart attack on seen In the Treasures oftheSteamboat Indians appeared on the other side of August 3. No major damage was the Cimarron. The traders fired on the Arabia Museum. Kansas City. MO. found. and he is back at Fort Union Indians and killed all but one. A few doing many thin~ for the SFTA. He Although the Western Engineer. car­ weeks later a second party returning will quit smoking, Improve his diet. rying the exploration company of Ma­ from Santa Fe to Missouri was at­ . and take better care of himself. jor Stephen M. Long. was the first to tacked. and Jyhn Means from Frank­ reach Council Bluffs in 1819. the first lin was killed. Like most NPS bureaucrats. Harryis steamboat to ascend the upper Mis­ > a tough bird. Some folks say they were , Such is the basic story which gave souri for commercial purposes was the surprised to learn he had a heart. rise to the first military escort on the Yellowstone In 1833. Wllliam Becknell Santa Fe Trail In 1829. That story has Rumor has It that It took the hospital Initiated trade with Santa Fe in 1821. mostly remained unchanged since staff several hours to find his ticker. leaving from Franklin. MO. where but the official word is that he does Josiah Gregg told It In his book, Com­ steamboats delivered commodities. have one. Actually. as everyone who merce of the Prairies. In 1844. Why Franklin served as the eastern termi­ knows him can attest. Myers has a big Munro and McNees traveled ahead of nus unttl the 1828 flood destroyed the the caravan and what was McNees's heart. Knowinghow Important he is to town. Santa Fe traders by that time first name were questions not an­ the upcoming 175th anniversary cele­ had found other points of departure. bration. Myers has no plans to check swered by Gregg or the Franklin Mis­ and over time such places as Blue out until that is history. In fact. he souri lntelligencer which published Mills. Independence. Fort Leaven­ this notice of the Incident in the Issue expects to be around to celebrate the worth. and eventually Westport (mod- 200th anniversary. too. We all wish (continUed on page 2) him the best. (continued on page 7) August 1995 1

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 1 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

PRESIDENT'S COLUMN est in the returns ofthat year. He may Paramount. CA. I am checking to see have tmveled the Trail at some time. if there might be an obituary for Eliza. EVERYONE Is invited to participate in He wrote his son Parker that the Unfortunately, Sally does not know the 1995 symposium at Larned and caravan which left Santa Fe with much else about Eliza but is now in­ Great Bend, September 21-24. Steve Munro and McNees had 115 men in terested in her story and in the rest of Linderer and many volunteers have the company. Before they got to the the family. Relatives who might want ~Simerone Spring" the Indians at dif­ to contact SaI1y Aber can write to her arranged an excellent program. This ferent times £lad taken about700 head at 12913 Bryce Ave NE, Albuquerque will also be an opportunity for mem­ of stock from them. But ~stU wors" NM 87112. bers of the Association to take part in George told his son, ~DanialMunroe & the business meetin~ and help to Robt. McNess" went in advance of the TRAIL BOOKS TO LOAN shape the future ofyour organization. caravan to look for a·good camping There will be newofficers and directors ground one evening. When they THE Lyons Public Library, Lyons, KS, who want to hearwhatyou envision for reached the creek, tney turned out has a collection of Tra1l books, avail­ the SFTA and the Trail. Plan now to be their mules and laydown to sleep, and able through interlibrary loan. The li­ there. I look forward to seeingyou. ~the indians came and klld them brary has received the third grant -BUIPitts boath." from the Kansas Library Network to • George Knox's letter, first used by purchase books on the Trail. Re­ NPS GOLD AWARDS TO Nicholas P. Hardeman, provides new searchers may visit the library or to knowledge about an oft-repeated story FOWLER & CHALFANT borrow these through their local li­ ofthe Santa Fe Trail. Both the name of brary. Two SFTA board members and mem­ Robert McNees and the circumstances under which he and Daniel Munro A Ust ofbooks in the Trail collection, bers of the SFNHT Advisory Councll, were kUled are nowadded to thelegend including several old and rare vol­ Pauline Fowler of Independence, MO, of the Trail and the history of a brave umes, may be obtained by sending a and BUl Chalfant of Hutchinson, KS, band ofadventurers. self-addressed stamped envelope to were presented Santa Fe Trail Gold Lyons Public Library, 217 East Ave South, Lyons KS 67554. Gem Crane, Awards by the National Park Service NOTES library director, is always looking for during the councll meeting at Dod~ 1. Josiah Gre~ Commerce of the additional titles for this collection and City on May II, 1995. Both have PraIries (Norman: University of Okla­ would appreciate su~tions. served on the councll since it was homa Press, 1954), 18: Ted Anthony, formed in 1989. ~Munro of McNees Crossing," Wagon WAGON TRACKS Is tile offidal pubUcation NPS Southwest Regional Director Tracks, 8 (Nov. 1993): 13. oftile Santa Fe Trail Associatioa, a non-profit Jerry Rogers stated that the gold 2. Nicholas Perkins Hardeman, WU­ orgaolzatioa incorporated under tile laws of award was recently established to rec­ demess Calling: The Hardeman FamUy tbe State of Colorado. Letters and artides are ognize ~individuals and organizations in the Amerlam Westward Movement, welcome, bUllbey become tile property ofwr 1750-1900 (Knoxvllle: University of aDd may be edited or abridged at tile editor's who have generouslyvolunteered their disaetion. All rights reserved Inquiries CID time and energtes to make invaluable Tennesee Press, 1977), 113. be directed to tbe apP'opiate address below. contributions to the advancement of 3. George Knox to Parker Knox. Sep­ ABnul subscriptions are obtained t1lrougb the national historic traillrogram." tember 14, 1828, Parker-Russell Pa­ membership in tile Association, whose does Congratulations to Polly an Bill. pers, Missouri Historical Society, St. are fixed per caleDdar year. Cllecb sllould be Louis. made payable to tile Santa Fe Trail Assoda­ DEATH ON THE TRAIL 4. Advertisements for the firm of tion and seDt to tile secretal}'-treasurer. Smith & Knoxappeared in the Missouri M...m-.b.1p C.t..... (continued from page 1) Intelilgencer. Benefactor 8 I,000 of September 12, 1828: Patron 8100/year Institutional 82S/year .SANTA FE. MOREABOUTEUZA FamUy 820/year About 70 or 80 of Oll' fellow-citizens, we by Cheryl Foote Individual 81S/year learn, have arrived from a trading expedi­ (SFTA member Foote is the author of Editor. Leo E. Oliva, PO Box 31, Woodston, tion to the Province of New-Mexico. We Women of the New Mexico Frontier. KS67675 understand they have realized a handsome She keeps turning up additional PRSident: Bill Pins, 3824 N Oak Grove Dr profit on their outfit. We regret to learn that *841, Midwest City, OK 73110 information about the elusive Eliza Capt Daniel Munro, one of our oldest and ViIle-PresldeDt: Ross Marsball, 6624 Craig most respectable citizens, was kUled by the . who traveled the TraU stweral times.) Rd, Merriam, KS 66202 Pawnee Indians, on his return home and ANOTHER piece of the Eliza St. Clair Secreta.,.-Tre_rer: Rutll Olson Peters, also a son of Capt. Samuel C. M'Nees, of Sloan Mahoneypuzzle hasbeen found. Santa Fe Trail Center, RR 3, ·Lamed, KS Franklin. 67550 Recently I gave a talk about women in The story remained unchanged, that 1995 SYllllpGlilum Coonllnator. SteveD UD~ is, untU Nicholas P. Hardeman pub­ New Mexico history and quoted Marc den:r, Fort Lamed NHS, RR3, Lamed, KS lished the history of the Hardeman Simmons who branded Eliza a Mtrail 67550 fam lly, WUdemess Calling, in 1977. Junkie." A few days later I was con­ hblldty CoordlDator. Michael E. Pitel, Without fanfare he noted the names of tacted by Sally Aber of Albuquerque, 182-A Taoo Rei, Santa Fe, NM 87501 the three men kUled on the trail in who is Eliza's great-granddaughter, Dlredon: Mc~ees, 1828, Robert Daniel Munro, and the granddaughter of WUllam Adrian Bustamaute, New Mexico and John Means. This was probably Sloan (Eliza's son and Marion's the first publication of McNees's given William Y. CllalfaDI, Kansas name, Robert. Hardeman's source for brother). Sally was not yet acquainted virginia Lee Fisher, Missouri this was a letter from George Knox to with her famous great-aunt Marion Pauline Fowler, MiSSOllri ofEnchantment, his son Parker Knox, dated Collen and her Land but she Mal}' Gamble, Colorado was intrigued by my mention of her Groves, Missouri, September 14, David Hutchison, Oklahoma 1828. Knox owned a store in partner­ great-grandmother. ship wlthpeneral Thomas A. Smith in . In the famlly Bible Sally inherited, Pat O'Brien, Cdorado Franklin. Smith & Knox sold Mere­ Eliza's date and place of death are Joy Poole, At Larp dith Miles Marmaduke most of the given as November 30, 1905, in Hynes, Margaret Sears, New Mexico goods he took to Santa Fe in 1824. By California. Hynes was founded as a Dave Webb, At LaJ'F 1828Knox. at least, was involved more community in the Los Angeles area in TIm Zwink, Oklahoma directly in the trade and had an inter- 1898 and has since become part of

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https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol9/iss4/1 2 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 9, Issue 4 (August, 1995)

PRELIMINARY RESULTS OF ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS AT FOUR SANTA FE TRAIL SITES IN OSAGE COUNTY, KANSAS by Marsha King

(Marsha King is the Special Projects erated from 1854 to ca. 1870. The Rangers (an independent company Archeologist. Kansas State Historical ruins of two buildin~ are currently from St. Louis intended to do dutywith Society. Topeka.) standing on the site. the dragoons. which. having left Fort Leavenworth when Colonel Doniphan 1" THE Archeology Office of the Kansas The stream at this site was referred t~ State Historical Society and the Kan­ to as Oak Creek prior to 1825. when did. took the lower ferry road by mis­ sas Anthropological Association (KAA) the George C. Sibley survey team re­ take. and thus we overtook them.) One sponsored a five-day Kansas Archeol­ named It 110 Mile Creek because It of the baggage wagons of the artl1lery today.whi~h • ogy Training Program (KATP). April 6 was 110 miles from Fort Osage where broke an axle has to be to 10. 1995. Archeological investiga­ the surveybegan. 1 The 110 Mile Creek mended before morning." tions focused on four Santa Fe Trail crossingwas referred to in manyofthe By the early 1850s travelers along sites in Osage county: McGee-Harris journals and accounts kept by civilian the Road to Santa Fe reported the Stage Station. Havana Stage Station and military travelers. It was an over­ presence of permanent residents at and townsite. Dragoon Creek crossing. night camping site where water and the 110 Mile Creek crossing. Dr. Wil­ and Soldier Creek crossing. timber were available. In November son Hobbs. a Quakermissionary to the These sites were included among 20 1829 Major Bennet Riley and his mili­ Shawnee Indians. indicated that Trail sites in Kansas for which Na­ tary battalion. escorting a caravan Samuel Cornetzer. an Anglo laborer at tional Register ofHistoric Places nomi­ captained by Charles Bent consisting the mission. married a Shawnee girl of approximately 35 wagons and 70 and built a house near the 110 Mile nation forms were prepared in 1993. 8 As part of the review of these nomina­ men. camped at the crossing where Creek crossing in 1850. Other travel­ tions the Kansas State Historical Soci­ they found sufficient ~ass. wood and ers also mentioned the small settle­ ety recommended that archeological water for their needs. Josiah Gregg ment at the crossing consisting of examinations were needed at several camped at the site on May 28. 1831. three families ofShawnees and whites. and included it on his list of places including a man named Richardson. of the sites to determine whether sub­ 3 surface deposits were present and to along the Trail. In September 1835 Journalist G. Harris Heap. stayed at modify the proposed boundaries to in­ Colonel Henry Dodge's Expedition to the crossing on May 15. 1853. and clude archeological remains. The work the Rocky Mountains returned to Mis­ described three families livingin "a few souri by way of the Santa Fe Trail and log-houses situated. in a hollow. near that was conducted as part of the 4 RAPT was designed to address these crossed the 110 Mile Creek. a small stream shaded by cotton­ woods.,,9 questions at the four sites. The 110 Mile Creek was referred to Field investigations conducted at the as "Camp No.5" by Susan Shelby Ma­ In August 1854Fry P. McGee and his sites dUringthe KATP includedsurface goffin. She stayed at the site the night brother. Mobl1lon McGee. then resi­ collection. metal detector surveys. of June 12, 1846. while traveling with dents of Westport. Missouri. pur­ subsurface testing. mapping of site her husband. who was a Santa Fe chased the claims at 110 Mile Creek features and Trail ruts. and piece-plot­ trader. a trade caravan. and their mili­ crossing as a commercial venture. Fry ting of recovered cultural material. tary escort. Magoffin described the McGee's wife. Martha. and three Volunteers were divided into teams to site: "The camping place tonight Is daughters setYsd with him at the site work on specific activities at the sites. near a creek. which at present Is quite in July 1854. The McGee brothers The teams were led by members ofthe small. A thick woods Is just before us were leaders ofthe proslaveryelement Archeology Office and by skilled KAA which we must pass in the morning; in that part of Kansas Territory. Fry volunteers. A total of 159 individuals some repairs must be done on It (the McGee owned three slaves. a woman volunteered their time during the five­ roadl first. or weshould have gone over and child who helped in the house. day period to work on these four sites. tonight. Took a little walk this evening and a nmng man who did various The volunteers included 30 school-age while they were fixing the tent. and chores. McGee's establishment was children. several members of the picked some little pebbles which I shall the polling place for the 7th district in Santa Fe Trail Association and the take home as a specimen ofmy Prairie the territorial election held November Topeka Treasure Hunters Club. and curiosities.... It Is the lU:~ of a wan­ 29. 1854. A total of607 votes were cast many experienced members of the dering princess. mine...." at the site. even though only52 eligtble Kansas Anthropological Association. The 11 0 Mile Creek crossing was a voters resided in the district. This pre­ Volunteers came to the project from 33 much used campground during the cinct was used by Horace Greeley as Kansas counties and four other states warwith Mexico. In late June and early an example of voting fraud and the (Iowa. Massachusetts. Minnesota. and July of 1846 the crossing served as a disregard for law and OIy~r displayed Missouri). We would like to thank all campground for various units ofColo­ by the proslavery forces. of the volunteers who participated in nel Stephen Watts Kearny's Army of The 1857 General Land Office Sur­ the project. the West. The soldiers camped on both veymapshowed the routeofthe Santa The McGee-Harris Stage Station His­ sides of the creek. and some of them Fe Trail crossing 110 Mile Creek. toric District (140S399) was the east­ celebrated the 4th of July there.6 One "McGee's Field"southeast ofthe cross­ ern-most of the four sites. This pro­ of the soldiers. Abraham Robinson ing. and a "Road from Ft. Riley to posed district includes both the 110 Johnston. made this entry in his diary Hundred and Ten" intersecting the Mile Creek crossing and campground. on July 5. 1846: "We camped on the Trail a short distance east of the which was actively used by travelers Tight bank of 110. where we found stream crossing. No structures were from 1821 until circa 1866. and the Captain Angney's company ofinfantry shown at the site on this map. prob­ McGee-Harris Stage Station which op- and Hudson's company of Laclede ably due to the fact that the buildin~

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Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 3 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

were located well away from the sec­ wide, spanned a gap of approximately Mter McGee's death in 1861, William tion and quarter section lines followed 32 feet, and was raised nearly 10 feet and America Harris continued operat­ by the surveyor. In the same year the above the bed of the stream. McGee ing the stage station until 1870. Fol­ Kansas Territorial legislature passed charged a toll of 25 cents per Wagon, lowing the decline ofthe Santa Fe Trail MAn Act to Declare the Santa Fe Road in that area the 18GOs, the site no a Territorial Road," in which MMcGee's ~~~yti::~;:;~~~fe~~~ ~~:g~U~~~ longer operated as a stage and mail M on 110 Creek was mentigned as a his death on September 19, 1861. 1 station. Harris sold the property in 1 landmark along the route. An 1858 Several log cabins (probably those 1872 and the site was subsequently guide to the gold regions ofPike's Peak originally occupied by the earlier operated by several owners as a work­ listed the items and services available Shawnee and white inhabitants), a ing farm. The Harris' frame house was at MilO Creek" as a "Mail station, coal occupied as a farmhouse by several blacksmith shop, and a store and tav- . 22 wood, water, grass, entertainment."1:1 em, were located on the north side of different families. The well-worn Fry McGee was also the first postmas­ the Trail in the 1850s.20 Two excava­ 1881 Indian Head Penny and the farm ter of Richardson Post Office, which tion units were completed in the vicin­ machinery parts, recovered during the was established at the site on January ity ofthe lowstonewall and foundation metal detector survey near this struc­ 9, 1855. Thispostofficewas<\~ntln­ remains thought to be the blacksmith ture and in the surrounding meadow, ued on September 29, 1874. shop. The large quantities of iron ob­ date to the post-Trail farm occupation Twice a month the mail coach to jects and scrap which are typical of of the site. In 1927 the frame portion Santa Fe stopped at McGee's over­ blacksmith sites were not recovered. of the house was tom down and the night. The stage typically carried from Collectors who previously had worked older stone portion was converted for 12 to 14 passengers. Theywere fed and this vicinity reported the recovery of use as a corn crib and the house yard slept in McGee's house, which served large amounts of iron from the area was cultivated. as an inn for these passengers and (personal communications 1995). The The Havana Stage Station other travelers. The house, which had initial result of the analysis of this (14OS1301) is located on the south four rooms, was located on the south feature are inconclusive. side of K-31 approximately four miles side of the Trail. A combined The standing remains of a stone west of Burlingame. No structures kitchen/dining room ran the full building. which presumably served as were present at this site in 1857when length of the building on the south the store, post office, and tavern, were the General Land office Survey was side, with a huge fireplace at each end. documented. This rectangular build­ conducted. The first stage station was This room provided the sleeping ac­ ing, which measured approximately constructed at this location in 1858 commodations for single men travel­ 14.5 feet x 48 feet, and a steeplysloped when the adjacent townsite ofHavana ers. The north halfofthe buildingwas roof. It appears to have been aligned was founded. The ruinsofthisbuilding divided into three rooms. One room with the long axis parallel to the route are still standing. The station operated was occupied by travelers with wives. of the Santa Fe Trail through the site. as a stopon the mail stage line offering . McGee's daughters slept in another In December 1857 McGee's oldest meals and lodging until ca. 1869, room, and the parents used the fourth daughter, America Puss McGee, mar­ when the Atchison, Topeka & SantaFe room as a sittingroom and bedroom.16 ried William D. Harris. They built a Railroad arrived in nearby Burl­ Today there are no standing ruins new frame residence and storehouse ingame. associated with McGee's house. The near McGee's in 1857.21 This newresi­ Only limited historical background scatteroflimestone and artifacts in the dence was located on the north side of information was available on the town plowed field appear to be the remains the Trail, attached to the south side of and stage station. A brief historical of this bouse. A grid containing 49 the earlier stone store or tavern. Lime­ sketch ofHavana was presented in the squares, each measuring 20 x 20 m, stone foundations of the frame addi­ 1879 (Edwards Brothers) atlas: "The was laid out over this area. Each grid tion were located and examined in four (Havana) City companywas composed squarewas subjected to surface collec­ excavation units. Much of the histori­ chiefly of Germans from Chicago and tion and metal detector survey. In ad­ cal cultural material recovered from St. Louis. A large stone hotel was dition, one unit was excavated within the vicinityofthis buildingdated to the erected at this city, also a large stone the concentration. Quantities ofsmall post-Trail occupation of the site. An distillery and a brewery were com­ whiteware shards and fragments of 1854 Liberty Seated dime was recov­ menced on a grand scale. Some half­ both windowand bottle glass were col­ ered by the metal detector survey in dozen small buildingswere completed. lected. A large numberofhandwrought the meadowa shortdistance northeast About fifty German and French fami­ and machine cut square nails were ofthis structure. The extent ofwearon lies settled in and around this place. recovered from this concentration. The this coin suggests that it was lost at The machinery for a mill was brought metaldetection surveyin this areaalso least several years after its mint date, in, an extensive store was opened, and recovered escutcheon plates from door but quite likely by a member of the Teutonic industry made the country or trunk locks, a small wrench, a lead McGee family or by a traveler on the around blossom like a rose. Soon, ball, and a varietyofother metal items. Santa Fe Trail. however, the leading merchant ~ailed. No evidence of intact foundation was Harris also built a large stable and the members of the company quar­ identified dUring the limited testing. storehouse at the site, a portion of reled with each other, and most ofthe settlers discovered that they were un­ McGee built a toll bridge over 110 which is still standing. This rectangu­ accustomed to the ways of rural life. Mile Creek ca. 1854, and rebuilt it in lar building, which measured approxi­ Alas, there is not one of them left to 1860. The bridge abutments were con­ mately 22 feet x 50.5 feet, was aligned chronicle its rise and downfall. The structed of log cribs filled with stone. perpendicular to the route of the Trail distillery is now Davis' grist mill, and through the site, with the long axis Log stringers and split log flooring re­ ~wers, extending roughly north to south. The hotel Dewitt's barn, and echo portedlr provided the surface of the Where? as to the rest of it...." bridge. 7 Excavation across a portion wall in the southwest comer of this of the west bridge abutment showed structure was much higher than the A large distillery was in the process evidence of stone fill. The abutments other remaining walls. Two excavation of being built on the bank of Soldier indicated that the bridge was 14.7 feet units were placed near this structure. Creek when the town of Havana was

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abandoned in the early 187~. Many ties of limestone have been removed crossings were used dUring the sixty of the German residents moved to from the site. resulting in the destruc­ years that the TraU was actively used Alma. and the townsite propeW was tion ofbuildings and stonewalls. They as a freight road. Additional investiga­ sold for non-payment oftaxes. After also provided a number of differing tions would also be reqUired to deter­ the stage station and townsite were interpretations of the history and lay­ mine whether a campground Is pre­ abandoned. the site was partofa farm. out ofHavana. and ofthe location and sent on either or both sides of this The remaining buildings were used for function of specific buildings. Mr. stream crossing. storage. a red barn was built to the Workman. who grew up in a large Soldier Creek crossing (14081302) east, and a granary was built to the three-story stone house across the is located south of K-31. a short dis­ south ofthe stone stage building. The highway from the site that has since tance west of Havana. and a short old townsite lands were used for hog been demolished, suggested that this distance southeast of the grave of ( pens, pasture, and cultivation (per­ house had been the stage station or Samuel Hunt. Hunt was a young dra­ sonal communication). hotel. He referred to the stone ruins as goon in Col. Dodge's expedition to the By 1879 only three structures were a tavern. in which his family stored Rocky Mountains who died ofmeasles • shown ~ the area which had been grain and hay. Mr. Workman and oth­ near ~is crossing on September II. Havana. One buildingwas indicated ers indicated that the stonewalls to the 1835. on the south side ofwhat Is now K-31. south had formed a completely en­ closed. rectangular stone corral. The This creek was variously referred to probably the stone building. Two in early accounts. Benjamin Reeves structures were shown on the north mound inside the enclosure was re­ ferred to as having been a large stone mentioned the stream as Manother fork side of this road. MSchool No.8" and a of the Osage. 15 or 20 feet wide. in residence. probablythe large stone ho­ bam. possibly the stage stable. that had stone arched openings at the east places high rocky banks. bold running tel built at Havana. ~ly and west ends. current. good ford. timbered. Archeological investigations con­ oak. elm. walnut. &c. Sibley's notes ducted at this site included metal de­ The Dragoon Creek crossing of the survey expedition refer to this tection survey. excavation of three (140S1303) Is a rock bottom stream stream interchangeably as "Waggon units, documentation of the standing crossing located on the north side of Creek" and MPat's Creek" because in ruins, and mapping of the site and K-31 west of Burlingame. a short dis­ 1825 Garrison Patrick had broken a piece-plotted artifacts. In addition to a tance east of Havana. In 1825 Ben­ wagon tongue while crossing the 31 large quantity of machine-cut square jamin Reeves. returningfrom Santa Fe stream. Captain John C. Fremont naUs. farm machinery parts. and frag­ in August with Sibley and the Santa probablymeant SoldierCreekwhen he ments of barbed wire. several more Fe Road Commission. described what recorded on the 4th ofJuly. 1845. that interesting pieces were recovered dur­ appears to be the Dragoon Creek his expedition camped and celebrated ingthe metal detection survey; a brass crossing as having a bold current and on the hill beyond a small creek which finial. a padlock. and a metal step a Mgood rocky ford.,,26 Wilson Hobbs he referred toas MInde~denceCreek" possibly from a stage or buggy. mentioned that in July 1852 he en­ in honor of the day. The earliest countered Mdeep fording for ponies" at The stone stage building was a rec­ reference found to the stream as Sol­ Dragoon Creek. He indicated that Mthe dier Creek was made by trader F. X. tangularstructure which, as originally stream ran in a very narrow and deep built. was approximately 18 feet wide Aubry in August of 1847 when report­ channel. so that a small increase of ingthat he had met MNoland. Harrison. and consisted ofa line offourintercon­ water ~ade fording difficult or impos­ necting rooms. A single excavation Herrald and Oldham ofIndependence. sible." The 1858 Guidebook to Gold ~?3ns unit was placed along the west side of with 12 of provisions" at MSol_ Mines of Western Kansas indicated dier creek. this building to examine the founda­ that at Dragoon Creek Mwood. water. s~ruc­ The 1857 General Land Office Sur­ tions ofthe ruined portion ofthe and grass will be found on the west ture. veyshows the Santa Fe Road crossing side of the creek. and south of the Soldier Creek just northwest of the A rubble mound. probably the re­ road." center of section 14. Ruts in the pas­ mains ofthe large stagestable orbam. The exact location of this crossing Is ture on the east side of the crossing is located south of the stage station disputed. The 1857 General Land Of­ provide evidence of the wagon traffic within a partial stonewall enclosure. A Oce Survey shows the Santa Fe TraU alongthis portion ofthe SantaFe Trail capped well with a pump Is situated a crossing Dragoon Creek just south of The creek banks at this crossing site short distance southwest of the the center of section 7. The location are relatively low and the bed of the mound. A single unit was laid out near identified as Dragoon Creek crossing stream Is covered with loose limestone the northeast comer of the mound. by the National Park Service (1990) slabs and gravels. After excavating through considerable and the URBANA Group (1993) Is on Metaldetectorsurveywasconducted stone from the fallen walls. a large the western edge of the section near foundation stone with underlyingfoot­ on the east side of the creek in the the section line road. This side. which wooded area near a short segment of ings and a possible drain feature were is generally referred to as MRocky exposed in the west wall of this unit. stone wall and in a small portion ofthe Ford."has a solid rock bottom. It also pasture where the TraU ruts are vis­ A third unitwasexcavated across the has a verydeep bankon the west side. ible. A number of pieces of relatively north wall of a small stone-lined de­ Both crossinglocations and the TraU modern field machinery and trash pression. a possible small house or route leadingtoand from the crossings were recovered. The major find at this shed. This proved to be a cellar foun­ were briefly examined dUring the pro­ site which could be attributed to the dation. measuringapproximately II x ject. The fields to the south and west period of the Santa Fe TraIl consisted 16 feet. It Is located northeast of the of Dragoon Creek were in the process of as 1823 silver Liberty dime of the rubble mound. of being burned off. making survey MCapped BustM~. The M3" in the date Visitors to the site dUring the KATP difficult. We were notable to determine had been struck over a "2" in a coin event furnished information about which of the two suggested locations minted the previous year. A single .64 modifications to the site. Most indi­ was the Dragoon Creek crossingofthe caliber lead ball and several bolts and cated that over the years large quanti- Santa Fe Trail. It Is possible that both nalls. possiblyused on freight wa~ns.

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were also recovered during the metal the KBnstJs GateWlly 10 the Amwiam West, 1540­ detector survey at the Soldier Creek 1854 (Topeka: Kan_ State HI8torical SocIety, crossing. 1972),617- 621. 7. Bieber, Relph P., ed., Marching willi theAmry ofthe In conclusion the archeological in­ West, 1846-1848 (Glendale: Arthur H. Clark Co., vestigation conducted dUring the five­ 1936), 79-80. ~ day KATP event in County con­ 8. Wilson Hobbs, "The Friends' Establishment In Kan­ tributed to the body of data available sas Tenitory," Tr81lS8Clions of the Kansu State about these four Santa Fe Trail sites. HistoticBJ Society, 8 (1903-1904): 257-258. The fieldwork at the 110 Mile Creek 9. BarI'f, Begi1J1J/ngofthe West, 1152-1153. crossingand McGee- Harris Stage Sta­ 10. MI'8. S. M. Be"Y to F. G. Adams, Mard119, 1887. tion sites helped to determine the loca­ MS, Kansas State Historical Society, Topeka. tion of McGee's house, document the 11. William F. Eckart to Charles R Green. October 30, construction of the toU bridge, and 1903, MS, Kansas State Hilltorical Society, Topeka. define the boundaries of this impor­ 12. James R McClul8, "Taking the CeIl&US and Olher tant Trail site. Further analysis ofpat­ Indelenlllin 1855," TlBnsactionsoftheKansasState • terningin the distribution ofthe piece­ HistoticBJ Society, 8 (1903-1904): 237. plotted artifacts located dUring the 13. Kansas City Star, Sept. 9, 1928. metal detector survey may help In lo­ 14. Louise 8a"Y, "The Ranch at Walnut Creek Cro.­ catingthe logcabins that were present ing," Kansas HistrxicBI Qu8lfetly, 37 (1971):13611. on the side when the McGees arrived. 15. Robert W. Baughman, Kansas Post Offices The KATP investigations at the Havana (Topeka: KaIl88S State HiatorlcaI Society, 1986), Stage Station and townsite provided 108,213. important documentation. We now 16. EcIcart to Gl88n, Cd. 30, 1903. know that even though post-Trail pe­ 17. Ibid. riod activities at the site have resulted 18. Ibid. in the demolition of most ofthe struc­ 19. Beny to AdamS, Mar. 19, 1887. tures and removal of quantities'of building stone, intact subsurface 20. Eckart to Gl88n, Cd. 30, 1903. DAR marker at 142 Mile Cr.ek,rededl­ foundations and other remains are 21. Charles R Green, The McGee Genealogy, MS, cated May 17, 1995, I to r: Helen II. present. Further documentary re­ Kansas State Historical Society, Topeka. Erlcaon, Don Cr..., and Mra, Vincent search and fieldwork at this site might 22. Sarah KuykElndaJ~One Hundred Ten Mile Crolllling: Tratra., (Photo by Joleen Day.) Stopover on the Santa Fe Tnlil (1972), MS, Kansas allow the location of the additional State Historical Society, Topeka, 9. buildin~ mentioned in the ,histories Don Schlesser related the history of 23. James RogeI8, "History of Osage Courlty," An 1IIus­ and features such as trash pits or ttBted Historical Atlas of Osage County, Kansas Old Allen, pointing out where Charles privies associated with the stage sta­ (Philadelphia: Edwards Brothers. 1879), 8. Withington had his toU bridge, smithy, tion occupation. While the limited in­ 24. Ibid.; A. T. AndI8ll8, History ofthe State ofKansas and tradingpost. He also Identified the vestigations of the Dragoon Creek (Chicago: A. T. AndI8ll8, 1883), 1531; Topeka Daily locations of homes at the old townsite crossing vicinity could not settle the Capitol, Odober 7, 1934. that were moved into New Allen when dispute over the location of this cross­ 25. An IRustratedHistoricalAtJasofOsageCounty. ~ the railroad came through in 1881. ing. it did result in the identification SS& There remains, on a hill, a cemetery of and recording of the late- nineteenth­ 26. GI8Q9. Road 10 Santa Fe, 171. mostly unmarked graves. century McCoy Farmstead site. The 27. Hobbs, "Friends' Establishment In KaIl88S Terri­ The DAR marker was originally 118­ limited fieldwork conducted at the Sol­ tOIY,"258. mile west of the present location. but dier Creek crossing provided evidence 28. WiUiam B. Parson&, "The Gold Mines of Westem It had fallen into a ditch and Mr. Sch­ sug~ of Santa Fe Trail period artifacts, Kansas," Pike's Peak Gold Rush Gu1debooIlB of lesser had retrieved It in 1976. Since 1859, ed. by leRoy R Hafen (Glendale: Arthur H. gestingthat a more intenSive surveyof It ~t Clark Co., 1941), 172. then had lain inside a fence just this crossing might result in estab­ of 142 Mile Creek. It is now located 29. American Stata Papers. lishing the locations of campgrounds directlyon the Trail, 2 1;2 miles north of and better defining the site's. boun­ 30. GI8Q9, Road 10 Santa Fe, 171. Allen on County Road L then 11;2 miles daries. 31. Ibid., 186. 272. east. Harry Veatch constructed a 32. BarI'f, Beginning ofthe West, 551. round base of limestone gathered by NOleS 33. Ibid., 713. Oliver Samuel. and Buster Wheat do­ 1. Kate L GllIgg, ed., The Road10 Santa Fe (Albuquer­ nated land adjacent to the road for the que: UnMtrsily of New Mexico Pr_, 1952), 55-56. 142 MILE CREEK DAR new location. 2. Otis E. Young, FlISt Military Esoort on the Santa Fe MARKER REDEDICATED Tlai/, 1819 (Glendale: Althur H. Clark Co., 1952), Prior to the rededication ceremony, 160-161. by Helen M. Ericson the DAR chapter toured all markers 3. Josiah Gregg, Commerce ofthe Prairies, ed. by Max under their jurisdiction from Lost Spo (Ericson, Emporia, KS. is secretary of rin~ to 142 Mile Creek, evaluating L. Moorhead (Nonnan: University of Oklahoma the Heart of the Fllnt HUls Chapter, Pr_, 1990), 217. those needing resetting or base re­ SFTA. and an avid Trail enthusiast.) 4. "Report on the Expedition of Dnlgoon8, Under C0lo­ pairs. This projectwill be completed by nel HenlY Dodge, to the Rocky Mountains In 1835," THE DAR Trail marker at the site of September 1996. The Heartofthe Flint MilitaIY Affairs. 6 (654): 130-146, American State Old Allen on 142 Mile Creek in the Hills Chapter Is erecting Interpretive Papers: DoaJmenls, LegislatiwandExeaJtiveofthe north part of Lyon County, KS, was signs at DAR markers and other Im­ Congf8SS of the United States (Washington: GaIe8 portant Trail sites. Signs are already & Seaton, 1861), 144. rededicated May 17, 1995, by Mrs. up at ruts five miles west of Council 5. Stela M. Drumm, ed., Down the Santa Fe Tl'ail and Vincent Traffas, state regent. and the into Mexico: The Diary of Susan She/by Magoffin, Old Trails Chapter of the DAR. Also Groveand at the Seth Hays Stone Barn 1846-1847 (lincoln: UriiYelllly of NebmskB Press, attending were members of the board one mile east of Council Grove. One is 1982), 10-12. of the Heart ofthe Flint Hills Chapter, beingprepared for erection at 142 Mile 6. Louise Barry, The Beginning ofthe West: Annals of SFTA, led by President Don Cress. Creek crossing.

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STEAMBOAT ARABIA (continued from page 1) em Kansas.City) shared in the trade. During the 1840s steamboat tech­ nology improved and settled on the packet. a sidewheeler driven by two powerful steam engines. designed to carry the maximum number of pas­ sengers and tonnage of freight. "Loaded flat." with the main deck only ( inches above the water. a packet could realize its cost of construction in one trip. There were no Coast Guard regu­ • lations in those days. so every inch of space was packed to capacity. A 171­ foot steamer. such as the Ambia. would carrywell over200tons ofcargo and over 100 passengers. with 50-plus crew members. for a jam-packed trip "loaded Oat." Most westward-bound emigrants from the eastern U.S. funneled into the entrepot. St. LouUil. After 1831, the Building hardware Is artfully displayed, Including locks and keys, weight scales, majority continued up the river to In­ kegs of nall8, windowpanes, and numerous other Items, In the Arabia Steamboat dependence-the principal outfitting Museum. (Photo by David Hawley.) and jumping-offpoint forthe Santa Fe and Oregon trails-a 427-river-mile tract that gave them a virtual monop­ located two blocks from the old Kan­ trip of usually five to seven days. The oly ofArmy freighting west of the MUil­ sas-Westport Landing. "Big Muddy" or "Ole Missury." as the souri River. Alexander Majors. as did Missouri was often called. generally the Glasgows. well-known Santa Fe Built in 1853, on the banks of the could be navigated from March to No­ Trail merchants. either owned shares Monongahela River·at Brownsville. vember. Outfitters and forwarding and in a Oeet ofsteamboatsor had onebuilt Pennsylvania, the hull of the Ambia commission merchants laid in sup­ specifically for the trade. was 171 feet long. 29 feet wide, with a pUes. gear. and merchandise shipped 4:¥4-foot-deep hold. The cargocapacity in from the East during the fall Aficionados of the Santa Fe Trail was listed at 222 tons. The side­ months. so as to be ready for the often concentrate on the means of wheeler ran on the Ohio and MIssis­ spring rush. travel and trade on the land road. but sippi Rivers until purchased in Febru­ During the 1850s Westport Landing the river route played a major role in ary 1855. for $20.000, by Captain J. (Port of Kansas) replaced Inde­ that commerce. Water travel was S. Shaw ofSt. Charles, MO. With gov­ pendence as the predominant eastern faster and cheaper than by land. and ernment contract in hand. Captain terminus ofthe SantaFe Trail. As more commodities were shipped up and Shaw directed the transport of army powerful steamboats pushed higher down the river between St. LouUil and personnel and supplies from St. Louis up the river. the levees ofFort Leaven­ Kansas City. to Fort Leavenworth, part ofwhich the worth also sprouted warehouses ruled Approximately700steamboats navi­ steamer carried on upriver to Fort with Trail goods. both imports and gated the Missouri Riverafter1819. Of Pierre (near present-day Plerre.SD) in exports. Steamboat entrepreneurs those 700. over 300 wrecks were July of that year. hustled for the lucrative outfitter's strewn up and down the riverbed and Shaw sold three-fourths Interest to business. According to the Kansas in cornfields from St. LouUil to South Captain J. WOOam Terrill and George City Times. May 30. 1897. river traffic Dakota. Over 30 were clustered W. Boyd, of St. Louis, in the spring of to the Port was heaviest in the years around the Kansas City area. 1856. In May, the Arabia became em­ 1856-1858 because of the Santa Fe The Arabia was one of those, and It broiled in the "uncivil war" raging be­ trade. For instance. 125 steamboats was engaged in the commerce of the tween Missouri and Kansas. The New delivered over 75 mOOon pounds of West although no actual records have England Emigrant Aid Society. anony­ merchandUile during the naVigation been found to prove that It specifically mously. hadshipped 100Sharps rifles season of 1857. was contracted to Santa Fe Trail out­ in boxes marked "Tools" bound for \ As Trail traffic grew military posts fitters. In all probabiUty, however. the partisans in Lawrence, K. T. Border were built to protect the wagon trains. Arabia handied freight both upriver Ruffians had been tipped off and. at and the forts had to be supplied. add­ and downriver that was part of that Lexington the proslavery hotbed of ing considerably to the amount of enterprise and carried passengerswho Missouri. forcibly removed the guns. freight shipped westward. The major­ traveled on the Trail. This particular only to find out that the farsighted ityofMissouri River boats held govern­ side-wheeler's Importance Uil that, al­ shippers had removed the breech­ ment contracts to transport commUil­ though it sank in 1856. it was exca­ locks. After this much-publicized inci­ sary supplies. quartermaster eqUip­ vated. salvaged, and Uil displayed in a dent, the Ambia gained the reputation ment. ordnance stores. mules. and museum where one can view a micro­ of a gun-runner. That, along with the other necessities to Fort Leavenworth. cosm ofthe frontier material culture of information that the boatwas carrying thence. to wagon trains for the Trail. the 1850s. The cargo was typical of over 400 barrels ofKentucky bourbon In March 1855 Majors and Russell whatwas carried on the SantaFe Trail. whiskey on her fatal trip, contributed signed a two-year government con- It Uil fitting. too. that the museum Uil to five salvage attempts over a 133-

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feet. the first welcome g1im pse was the Arabla's 5Q-foot-longwoodenbeamsof the paddle wheel. On Nov. 30 a Good­ year rubber shoe. patented in 1849. was uncovered. the first of tons of ar­ tifacts now regarded as the treasures ofthesteamer. Gold. Sharps rifles. and whiskey barrels were not found. but over 200 tons of cargo. the majority well preserved in blue clay. will provide years of conservation effort and study to add to our knowledge of the 18508 frontier life and economy. . To this steamboat historian. the ex­ citement ofthe chance to stand on the -, Arabla's main deck and peer into the fireboxes. measure the "doctor" which pumped the river water into the boil­ ers. and help to uncover boxes that held tools. pickles. pie fillings. with labels stlll readable. isbeyonddescrip­ tion. I have a finer regard and awe of what it took to navigate the water and land highways to the West. Of great Thousands ofclothing Items survivedInthe burled hull oftheAr.bl.,lncludlng 4,000 value is the fact that the boilers. en­ boots snd shoes, 300 hats, dozens of coate, socks, and nearly 100 bolts of silk and gine. doctor. pumps. blacksmlthy. and wool material. (Photo by David Hawley.) other equipment were on board and now reside in the museum for further year period, after It sunk six months wreck could be covered with sand study-the only such collection of later. within 24 hours. leaving a small win­ Western riverboat steam equipment of In the St. Louis Missouri Republican. dow to save cargo. personal belong­ that era in the United States. in~. and equipment on board. H pos­ April I. 1856. a ballyhoo announced The engine has been restored and the first trip of the season: MThe good sible the owner could recoup some of the loss by salvaging the machinery drives a replica paddle-wheel that gen­ and staunch steamer Arabia. Captain tly splashes in a pool in front of a and recyt:ling It on a new riverboat. Terrill on deck an'd Mr. Boyd in the diorama of the levee and town ofKan­ office will leave for St. Joseph this After the initial salvage attempt. sas. The members of River Salvage. morning at 10 o·c1ock. The Arabia has which netted only the starboard en­ Inc.• knew the "treasure trove" and excellent accommodations for passen­ gine. the remains of the Arabia were story of the "Great White" Arabia gers and the officers are the right sort covered by tons of sand. The ever­ should be shared with us all. changing river channel eventually of men. Go aboard the Arabia and be Three years to the day afterthe exca­ moved one-half mile north of its final at home.MThere is no record of how vation began. on November 13, 1.991. many round-trips the side-wheeler resting place during the I 33-year pe- riod. . the Arabia Steamboat Museum was made dUringthe six months before she opened to the public. The longsought­ sank. however. depending on the river The search. excavation. and salvage after riverboat that carried "everything levels. tum-around trips occurred as ofthe Arabia by River Salvage. Inc.• is from pickles to people" thus lives on. soon as the steamer was reloaded and ably told by co-owner David Hawley in Over halfa million visitors have toured passengers were aboard. The Treasures ofthe SteamboatArabia. the 30,000 square-foot museum. with On September5. 1856. after off-Ioad­ Since space does not permit delving over 150.000 more expected dUring Ing cargo and some passengers at the into the fascinating mechanics and in­ 1995. Port of Kansas, the MGreat White" Ara­ genuity of the actual excavation and You will marvel over the priceless bia. as It was called, with 130 passen­ recovery. Hawley's book Is highly rec­ collections of finelY. ironstone gold­ gers on board. headed upriver late in ommended. as is a vist to the Arabia rimmed china. gold-plated dinner the afternoon. bound for Council Museum in Kansas City. ware. perfumes. Wedgewood pitchers Bluffs. At the supper hour the steamer After finding the steamer under a and wash basins. and tools and hard­ ran head-on Into a walnut sawyer (a soybean field on the Norman Sorter ware. You may muse over the artwork snag that was hidden just under the farm in 1987. excavation began Nov. and styles ofexhibits on 18508 steam­ waterline) and sank within ten min­ 7. 1988. after the bean harvest. Since boating. watch the actual c1ean~~g of utes. There was no loss of human life. the water table was only 10 feet below artifacts. and talk to the conservators During the excavation a skeleton of a the surface, pumping was the essen­ in the preservation lab. . mule with saddle. bridle. and saddle tial process for the success of the op­ You are invited to "come aboard the roll still attached was found. The reins eration. Twentywells were drilled to 65 Arabiaand feel athomel"Visitorscross were still tied to alumber mill on deck. feet around the side-wheeler's outline. a gangplank onto the mock-up of the Christened MLa~nce of the Arabia." The pumps ran continuously around steamer's main deck with machinery this victim is featured in a recently­ the clock. and the water was drained in place. Members of River Salvage. opened exhibit. offby a plastic-lined ditch. dubbed the Inc.• are often on the deck totalkabout The Missouri River is noted for its "Arabia Canal" to the river one-half their adventures and the time capsule fast current. tortuous channels. un­ mile away. The excavation grew to the of 18508 commerce and travel. See It derwater hazards. mud content. and size of a football field. for yourselfand puzzle the blendingof rapid bank erosion. A steamboat . On November 26. at a depth of 45 river and Trail commerce•

8 August 1995

https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol9/iss4/1 8 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 9, Issue 4 (August, 1995)

Santa Fe Trail buffs can debate what In December 1870. Terwilliger was a items of the cargo might have been cattle dealerand may have traded with POST OFFICE OAK stuffed In a wagon purchased at an the Indians. -LETTERS- outfitter's store. One finds. too. that The 1873 Council Grove Blrd's E~ travel bysteamboaton an ever- chang­ View map shows an addition on the Editor: Ing river was as perilous as the hard­ south side ofthe house. Probably Ter­ My wife and I (ages 78 and 85) and ships and dangelS on the Trail. williger added this shortly after he ac­ our daughter from Montana recently The overland and river trails pro­ quired the structure. Mter the addi­ enjoyed a five-day tour along the Trail. vided the bulk of commerce and emi­ tion. the house consisted offour levels. visiting sites from Lyons. KS. to Fort gration West and contributed greatly There was a Mclub" room In the base­ Union. NM. Some of the highlights were Pawnee Rock, SantaFe TrailCen­ . - to the economic development of the ment with many doors. a second floor Missouri River Valley and the Far whichseemed to be the livingquarlelS. ter. FortDodge. Bentrup Ruts, Wagon­ West. Steamboats such as the Ambia and an UpstallS on two levels with four bed Spring, Cimarron National Grass­ carried cargo upriver to be transferred bedrooms. At one time the house had land. Boise City area. Clayton com­ • to freightelS and on the return down­ walnut woodwork and leaded stained­ plex, and Springer. river carried exotic exports from Mex­ glass windows. It was a house of We are truly grateful to have been ico to St. Louis. porches with at least one porch on able to make this tourand recommend The Treasures ofthe Steamboat Ara­ each side. Trail travel highly to everyone inter­ bia Museum is located at 400 Grand The Historic Preservation Corpora­ ested In the historic road. Our daugh­ Ave, Kansas CityMO 64106. Take Wal­ tion was recently created to provide a ter prepared a photo album ofthe trip. nut or Grand exits off1-70 to the River nonprofit organization to preserve and and we show it to relatives and friends Market. Hours: Monday-Saturday, restore the MTrail Days House" at 803 with the hope of stimulating more in­ 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Sunday, West Main Street In Council Grove. terest In the Trail. We encourage SFTA noon to 6:00 p.m. The museum is Kansas. The corporation is seeking fi­ members to travel the route and imag­ ~alS closed New Years Day. Easter. nancial assistance In the form oflump ine what life was like 150 ago. Thanksgtvlng, and Christmas. Admis­ sum donations. monthly support. es­ Walter Kretzmann sion (subject to change): Adults $5.50. tates. or persons willing to contribute 908 Terran Ave SenlolS (60 and older) $5.00. Children time and efforts for fund-raising pro­ Lyons KS 67554 4-12 $3.75; Children 3 and under free. jects. Plans are to use the restored Editor: Group and school tour rates are avail­ house for historic purposes. To make 1 am sorry to inform you that my able. For information call (816) 471­ a contribution or for further informa­ husband. Ed Dart. passed away last 4131; for group reservations call (816) tion. contact Historic Preservation December. We have enjoyed the news­ 471-1856. To order Treasures of the Corp.• Kenneth W. McClintock. 130 letters. He always wanted to make a Steamboat Arabia by David Hawley. West MainSt. CouncilGrove KS 66846 trip on the Santa Fe Trail. His great­ send check for $23.50. Includes tax or phone (316) 767-5688 or 767-5311. grandfather. Erl Snowden. Sr•• was and shipping. to the museum address killed while riding shotgun on the above. 175th PLANNING MEETING stagecoach from Dodge City. Kansas. to La Junta. Colorado. The family does TRAIL DAYS HOUSE IN THE New Mexico Department ofTour­ not know where he was buried. They COUNCIL GROVE Ism and New Mexico Highlands Uni­ were ambushed and he never had a versity will conduct a special town chance to draweitherofhis pistols. My WITH its foundation laid in Kansas meetingon planning for the 175th an­ husband had one ofthe pistolsand his Territory In 1860. a stone house In nivelSary of the opening of the Santa brother. deceased In 1961. left the Council Grove was built alon~lde the Fe Trail. at Las Vegas. NM. October 5. other to his wife. Ed wanted to search Santa Fe Trail as Kansas became the 1995. 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. This for the grave or a record of his burial thirty-fourth state In 1861. It was de­ meeting is designed for tourism or­ alongthe Trail. Bythe time he was free scribed In 1863 as the last house the ganizations. chaptelS. Trail communi­ to do so. however. his health began to freighters passed going west from ties. and other interested people. Dis­ fail andItwas not possible. 1would like Council Grove. count room rates are available. For to know If anyone has information Recent research confirms that this further information. contact the Las about the death and burial of Erl house is one ofthe three oldest houses Vegas Chamber of Commerce at 1­ Snowden. Thank you. remaining beside the Trail In Kansas. 800-832-5947. Dorothy C. Dart An important Council Grove stonema­ QUILT CONTEST FOR 175th 2516 PinebluffDr son. Philip Morse. constructed the Dallas TX 75228 house for the ownelS, Abraham and THE Heart of the Flint Hills ChaptelS Mary Rawlinson. and later sued them of SFTA and the Emporia Regtonal PICTORIAL CANCELLATIONS for nonpayment. The lawsuit was in­ QuUters Guild are sponsoring a Wall CHAPTERS and communities plan­ terrupted when Morse and some ofthe Quilt Contest to celebrate the 175th rung special events to commemorate men ofthe Rawlinson household were anniversary of the opening of the the 175th annivelSaryare encouraged called to serve In the CIvil War. Santa Fe trade route. The three top to arrange for a U.S. Postal Service With their home on the edge of the entries will share $300 in prize money. pictorial cancellation as part of the frontier. the Rawlinsons witnessed and a total of 40 entries will be dis­ activity. ThePostal Service encourages freight wagons loaded with goods roll­ pla~d In the Kaw MIssion Museum at this. and Itis a good methodofpromot­ ing by their front door. heading to or Council Grove from May 26 to July 7. ing the event and the Trail. The ar­ from Santa Fe. Their house was a wel­ 1996. A brochure with entry blank. rangements are fairly simple and must come sight to the eastbound freight­ size requirements. and times of crea­ be made with the local postmasterwell ers, as It signaled a return to MctvlUza­ tion will be available September 1. In advance of the scheduled function. tlon." Mary Rawlinson deeded the 1995. from Contest/ERQG. PO Box A special cancellation design. with an stone home to William RIley Terwilliger 663, Emporia KS 66801. illustration and date(s). is reqUired.

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Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 9 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

HARRY TRUMAN AND THE SELECTION OF SITES FOR THE DAR MADONNA STATUES, PART III

by Jane Mallinson

(This is the last in a series on then drive to Santa Fe 66 mUes, hear ing else of the matter, this answer Truman's letters to his wife about the Santa Fe and come to a decision...." alone would have been enough to selection ofMadonna sites in the TraU At Santa Fe, after viewing possible make me oppose the acceptance ofthe states, with additlonal'informatlon sites for the statue, the committee met monument. When a picture of the about the decision for the statue in at the La Fonda Hotel for further dis­ monument was shown me, I felt that I New Mexico. Parts I and II considered cussion ofthe location ofthe NewMex­ would have no right to let Santa Fe in the sites chosen in Missouri, Kansas, ico Madonna. There Santa Fe Cham­ for anything In the way of art so atro­ and Colorado. Thanks to Jane ber of Commerce Secretary J. D. De­ cious. No only is the monument indif­ Mallinsonfor compiling this series.) Huff presented a list of reasons why ferent art, but as a descendant of a Santa Fe was the logical place. Mrs. long line of Pioneer Mothers myself, I HARRy Truman and Mrs. John Moss " Francis Wilson, Santa Fe resident and felt that the monument did not repre­ found fierce competition for the loca­ sent them truly.... Moreover, •.• the tion of the DAR Madonna of the TraU former regent of the New Mexico DAR, also spoke in favor of her town. A Mr. Pioneers of New Mexico are not the Statues in most of the 12 states from Pioneers ofthe D.A.R. ... I considered coast to coast designated to receive the Kloch from Albuquerque protested, stating that his town was the best it profoundly discourteous for the monuments. Some communities along D.A.R. to think of setting up one of the routes ofthe old traUs worked hard choice. Then voices ofopposltlon were raised by two citizens of Santa Fe, their monuments in the city of Santa to influence the process, as Truman Fe without the widely expressed ap­ reported to his wife in the correspon­ artistFrankApplegate and writer Mary Austin. probation of the New Mexican pio,. dence. neers." Austin also made it clear that For exampie, he wrote to Bess as As DeHuff later explained in the Oc­ she objected to the "rude interruption follows from Cumberland, Maryland, tober 14, 1927, SantaFe New Mexican, of the D.A.R. official who presided on AprU 18, 1928: MWe tried to settle Mit had never once occurred to me, and [Mrs. Moss)." According to DeHuff, the location for PA. We went on to I feel sure that it had never occurred to "Mrs. Moss was Infuriated." Uniontown to a Rotary Club meeting Mrs. WUson or any other supporter of Santa Fe's claim, that anyone living' Frank Applegate also explained his after which we met the Presidentofthe position in the October 19, 1927, Chamber of Commerce and Manager here would, or could object to the lo­ cation of the monument in Santa Fe." santa Fe New Mexican. He stated that of the Motor Club and found out that when he was asked to attend the meet­ Washington and Uniontown are at Thus he was surprised when MMr. Ap­ plegate soon got up and began with an Ing and speak, "I replied that I would swords points be cause the former got be wUling to give ten dollars toward a the Monument. They have even uncomplimentary reference to the Santa Fe chamber of commerce, stat· fund to keep the statue away from brought in the Governor and State Art Santa Fe and that if the statue was Commission.... The local DAR inboth ingthat thiswas another case ofwhere the chamber of commerce was at­ wanted here I had better not be asked States are at odds with Mrs. Moss and to the meeting. Thus I gave fair warn­ with each other." tempting to put somethingover on the Santa Fe public without letting the ing." According to his recollection, Ap­ The selection process in New Mexico public know anything about it. Mrs. plegate listened to the statements was even more spirited, and the out­ Wilson interrupted him immediately.. made in favor ofSanta Fe at that meet­ come was determined, at least in part, .. Mr. Applegate then made a state­ ing and spoke out when it "seemed because ofvociferous opposition to the ment to the effect that he had can­ from the tenor of the meeting that statue in Santa Fe. At first, as Truman vassed all the artists and writers in Santa Fe was about to be handed the explained to his wife in a letter from Santa Fe and that none of them statue." Albuquerque on October 3, 1927, both wanted this monument here, that it He continued, "Now it is an old say­ Albuquerque and Santa Fe sought the was not artistic, and Santa Fe did not Ing that one must not look a gift horse monument: "The State Conference of want something unloaded on it that it in the mouth, butI hadseensome cuts the DAR for New Mexico is being held didn't want. Mrs. Austin made a few of this statue and was adversely Im­ today. They Invited Davis and I to their remarks the tenor of which was that pressed by it and raised the question reception this evening and I had to the so-called Pioneer Woman monu­ of whether Santa Fe, as a whole, make a speech. Then they had refresh­ ment did not represent the real pio­ wanted the statue unloaded on it in ments. An old lady by the name of neers ofthis regton at all, that the fea1 this manner, that the Old Santa Fe Joyce got hold of me and told me her pioneers were the Spanish people and association, to my knowledge, had not home had been Pleasant HUl some that they had not been consulted and been consulted and that I had spoken twenty years ago and wanted me to were not represented at all." to a number ofartists and writers and recollect a lot of people who had been that none ofthem cared for the statue. dead before I was born. After she got Mary Austin later explained her po­ sition in the santa Fe New Mexican, I said further that If a single artist in done with me the Albuquerque delega­ Santa Fe was found who approved of tion backed me into a corner and tried October 18, 1927,noting that she was suspicious "when I asked what artists the statue I would withdrawall further to force me to promise to vote for this protest. Mrs. Moss interrupted me at town for the monument. Then a Santa had seen and approved the monu­ ment. I was informed that 'you will this point and said artists had nothing Fe outfit did the same way and then to do with this statue, that it was Albuquerque started allover. Santa Fe have to rely upon us for that.' Now in matters ofart that do not come within between the D.A.R. and the chamber followed us to the hotel and wouldn't ofcommerce." let us loose and I am writing you at 1 my own profession, I am not accus­ AM. out here. rve got to get up at 6:30, tomed to relyupon thejudgmentofany Applegate also recalled that Mary meet Mrs. Moss at 7:30 and at 9 AM but experts." Austin, "in a manner to which no one hold another court to hear this town She continued, "Had I known noth- could possibly take exception, ques-

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tioned the proprietyofplacinga monu­ truck. highest levels In the National DAR and ment ofthis subject In Santa Fe on the "When an attemptwas made to move helped with the design ofthe Madonna ground thatSantaFewasan old Span­ the sculpture, Mary Austin, known to that August Leimbach, sculptor, of­ Ish pioneer town, and also that the all of us as a lady ofstature, stepped fered to the NOTR Association. The descendants ofthese pioneers had not forward and with no offense to mod­ . original scale model ofthe Madonna Is been consulted In this matter." Apple­ estybegan to kick HarryTruman In the In the National DAR Museum In Wash­ gate further clarified his own position, shins. The Pioneer Mother never left Ington, D.C. Mrs. Moss conceived the stating that "I had no quarrel with the the truck. She was hastily rewrapped idea oferecting monuments as memo­ D.A.R. but what 1did object to was the and taken to grace the little park on rials to the pioneer women of covered Inartistic quality of this particular Fourth street in Albuquerque." wagon days. She was a teacher of the statue. 1 said 1 did not consider It a Thisaccounthas nobasis In fact, but deaf before her marriage. She and Mr. work of At this point, as he Moss had two sons, John, Jr., and art." It may represent the strongopposition remembered, "Mrs. Moss lost her tem, of some Santa Fe artists to the Ma­ Harry Nichols. She served as MIssouri per .. ..and said 1 was excused from donna. The committee had selected State DAR Regent In 1917 and was a the meeting. 1thanked her very kindly member of Cornelia Creen Chapter • Albuquerque as the site and It seems In my most suave and courteous man­ doubtful that the five-ton statue with DAR. Without her efforts there may ner and departed bearing no rancor its twelve-ton base was mistakenlyde­ never have been 12 Madonna statues whatsoever. Up until my last remark livered to the wrong city. Moreover, along the overland route from coast to Mrs. Moss seemed Intent on the Harry Truman was presidingjudge of coast. statue's coming to Santa Fe, but her the Jackson CountyCourtat that time SIX MILE CREEK STAGE anger overcoming her she tossed It to and Jackson CountyCourt files do not Albuquerque." indicate his absence. There Is no re­ STATION PLACED ON THE As DeHuff explained, Mrs. Moss re­ cord In the archives of the Truman NAOONALREGISTER quested that everyone except the com­ Library In Independence, MO, that mittee leave the room. Then the com­ Truman ag;:un went to New Mexico by Bonnie SUI mittee, In executive session, voted five about the Madonna. He was not even (Bonnie SUI Is an active member of to two to place the New Mexico statue present at the dedication of the New SFTA and the Heart ofthe Fllnt HUls at Albuquerque. DeHuffand Mrs. Wil­ Mexico Madonna, although he was Chapter. This stage station site Is son were the two who voted for Santa listed on the program. Frank Davis, located on herproperty.) Fe. secretary of the National Old Trails IN June 1995 Six Mile Creek Stage In addition to the published state­ Road Association, represented Judge Truman and gave the address when Station on the Santa Fe Trail was ments of DeHuff, Austin, and Apple­ placed on the National Reglster ofHis­ gate, the Santa Fe New Mexican the statue was placed at McClellan Park at the comerofFourth Streetand toric Places. It Is located ~ mile west printed a statement by Santa Fe ~ Chamber of Commerce President Mc­ Marble Avenue NW neardowntown Al­ and 2 miles north ofBurdick, KS, or Convery, defending the chamber's buquerque. 41;4 miles south ofHighway 56 In Mor­ supportofSantaFe for the monument, According to the Albuquerque Jour­ ris County, KS. and two editorials. The editorial on nal the band opened the program with M. CotrUl and Company operated October 14 was titled "That Statue," the Star Spangled Banner. Mrs. John stages through the station and its and the other on October 18 was "Let Trigg Moss was on the program as was stagecoach line was known by several Us Forget It." The editor asked for an Albuquerque Mayor Clyde Tingley. The names: Kansas Santa Fe and Canon advisory board of the best qualified monument was unveiled by Mrs. City Express; Kansas City, Santa Fe people to work with the citycouncil on George K. Angle and Mrs. Ada M. Bitt­ and Denver Mall Stage Express; The city beautification In general. ner. When the statue was unveiled, Santa Fe Stage Company; and the Santa Fe Stage. The artists ofSanta Fe did not forget spectators saw inscribed on Its north It, Ifone can believe the following story face: "Into the primitive West, Face The SixMile name came from wagon­ from Tierra Dulce: RemlnJscencesfrom upswung toward the sun, Bravely she masters. Diamond Spring was a days the Jesse Nusbaum Papers published came, Her children beside her, Here drive from Council Grove and because by Sun Stone Press (p.59): "The day she made a home, Beautiful pioneer ofits abundant water It was a popular came for the sculpture to appear and mother," and on its south face: "To the campsite. The streams west of DIa­ Indeed that afternoon the Pioneer pioneer mother ofAmerican, Through mond Springwere named for their dis­ Mother arrived at the comer ofShelby whose courage and sacrifice, The de­ tance from that famous site: Mile and and San FranciscoStreetson the Plaza sert has blossomed, The camp became a HalfCreek, ThreeMile Creek, andSix bytruck, allswathed In wrappln~and a home, The blazed trall the thorough­ Mile Creek. A post office was estab- . accompanied by three men - one, a fare." llshed at Diamond Spring July 21, short fellow named Harry Truman, It should be noted, In conclusion, 1859, and discontinued Feb. 9. 1863. then working for the Penderghast that the New Mexico MadonnaIsabout Six Mile Creek post office was estab­ bosses of Kansas City, and soon to to be a homeless woman. McClellan lished Feb. 6, 1863 and discontinued become Vice President ofthese United Park Is scheduled to become the site of March 20, 1886. Samuel Shaftwas the States under Franklin Roosevelt. As a new federal courthouse. Undoubt­ first postmaster. The Diamond Spring the truck came to a stop, the Santa Fe edly a suitable place will be found for bulldln~ were burned May 5, 1863. group there to meet It immediately ex­ her. In 1865 brothers Frank and WUUam pressed refusaland loudlyordered the Although Harry Truman and his let­ Hartwell from New Hampshire bought truck to move on. Someone shouted ters to his wife provided the focal point the Six Mile Stage Station for $2,000 that life was not lived merely cons~t­ for this series on the selection of sites and nine months latersold Itfor $500. Ing of breathing but in acting and the for the Madonna statues In four Trall Wffilam Hartwell wrote, "It consisted of controversy raged loud and heated, as states, recognition should also be a lowstone structure with three rooms the Pioneer Mother was unwrapped by given to Mrs. John Trigg Moss of St. and a log building used as a grocery, the equally determined men on the Louis. She served many years at the all under dirt roof. We also had a sta-

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blingcapacityfor 10horses anda good . The stone corral and house stones stone corral." were given to the countyabout 1920to The Junction City Union. June 23. crush and use in the bridges. one 1866. reported the Santa Fe Stage north across Six Mile Creek and one Company would run from Junction south. New bridges were built in 1985. City to Santa Fe after July 1. and the Raleigh passed away in December stock would be taken to Junction City 1994. He had been real protective of from Council Grove. The railroad had the Trail ruts in the pasture east and come to Junction City from the east. north ofthe buildin3'l and fm sure our The stage line from Junction Citycon­ daughter Beverly and son John will nected with the original Santa Fe Trail continue to presetye them. We are at Lost Spring about eight miles west pleased that the site is now on the of the Six Mile Ranch. The HartweUs National Register. went west to help build the Cimarron Station near the Cimarron Crossingof WHmlNGTON CENTER '. the Arkansas River west of present TRAIL MONUMENT Whittington Center Trill monument Dodge City. - by Nancy Robertson with Trail ruts In foreground and Red In 1866 Charlie and Mary Owen River Peak behind. . (Robertson. Raton. NM. charter came from England and settled on the is a Six Mile Ranch. There were manyskir­ member of SFTA and is active in mishes .with Indians. The Indians chapters in the region. Her article on long-abandoned 1906St. Louis. RoCky the Clifton House DAR marker burned the log building and in 1868 Mountain and Pacific Railway Com­ appeared in the May 1995 WT.) the Cheyennes returned from battle pany l1ne to the Maxwell Land Grant with the Kaws at Big John southeast THE NRA Whittington Center Santa coalminesatVan Houtenand Koehler. ofCouncil Grove. The Cheyennes were Fe Trail monument is located south­ In constructing the l1ne. which defeated and on the return west went west of Raton. NM. below Red River crossed the Canadian at right angles on the rampage. The Owens were vic­ Peak. just west of the Santa Fe Trail to the Atchison. Topeka and Santa Fe tims. Charlie was a stonemason and ruts. and seven-tenths ofa mile north Railroad. dirt was removed from a was working in Emporia. A cousin. of milepost 340 on the U.S. Highway trench immediately south of Clifton John Edwards. took Mary. daughter 64. Itwas the scene ofthe 21stannual House tobuildthe bridgeand embank­ Kate and brother Tom Tedstone to his Mountain Men and Santa Fe Trail me­ ment which can still be seen from U.S. place. When theOwens returned home morial celebration on June 17. 1995. Highway 64 at milepost 344. The 100­ they found some of their property had The large monument. visible from mile SLRM&P line-ran from Ute Park been taken and the rest broken and some distance. is "Dedicated to those to Des Moines. NM. It was sold to the ruined. Mary said. "All I had left was brave mountain men whose footsteps AT&SFonAugust 1.1913. Theoriginal what I stood up in." traveled the Santa Fe Trail before us." plan called for the railroad to reach the Some of the people who llved there It features a map of the trail and im­ Elizabethtown gold mining fields. A later included Terwilllgers. Galbraiths. ages of two mountain men. Surround­ railroad tunnel was blasted through and Johnsons. For a time the stone ing the monument are five smaller the south wall of Cimarron Canyon at home was used for church. In 1900 state markers with inscriptions. the site ofthe Eagle Nest Dam. but the John V. and Carollne Larson bought Immediately to the north of the tracks were never laid past Ute Park. the 80 acres which included the old monument the Trail remnants de­ Travelers in the area should take stage station. Their daughter Mildred scend the Red River Peak ridge to the time to visit the Whittington Center told me there was a date. 1849. on a Canadian Crossingat Clifton House in Trail monument as well as the Trail corner stone of the house. The cellar a series of deeply eroded ruts. which ruts. Canadian Crossing. remains of was there when the Larsons bought were bridged at right angles by the Clifton House. a~d the DAR marker. the place. They built a house east of the cellar. which is the foundation that remains. Mrs. Larson was worried about the walls gettingweak in the old house so it was tom down. According to the Larsons and Mary Owen. the stone stage station house was on the south side ofthe present driveway and north of the house foundation that is there now. The original well was north of the driveway. The old dry creek bed is still there. but a new channel was cut to help avoid flooding. On October 18. 1908. the Daughters of the American Revolution and the State of Kansas erected a Santa Fe Trail marker by the road. In 1918 Or­ land and Clara Sill bought the place. Orland died in 1923. Clara continued to live there with her 7 children. After Clara passed away my husband Raleigh and I bought the farm from the family. He was born there in 1920. Eroded Trail Me, looking toward Canadian River and alte of Cllton Hou...

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https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol9/iss4/1 12 : Wagon Tracks. Volume 9, Issue 4 (August, 1995)

HISTORIC TREES AT JOHN JAMES CLEMINSON DIARY, PART II COUNCIL GROVE by Doris Cress (The John James Clemlnson family a narrow opening between the mountains (Cress, CouncU Grove, Is an active traveled via the santa Fe TraU to In a westerly direction. After tracing our member ofSFTA and the Heart ofthe California in 1850-1851. This portion road some 5 miles we came to a part ofthe Flint HUls Chapter.) of the diary chronicles their arduous country rich In gold dust. The land was THE GFWC PhilomaUan Club of Journey from the Rio Grande valley. composed of sand and gravel, In some Council Grove, KS, has Identlfied 12 which they left on November 9. 1850. places of reddish cast, c:Xher of a grayish. live trees as part of the original grove as Clemlnson recorded in the last This continued some 8 miles. Some places , entry published in theprevious Issue. were much richer than others. The surface \. of trees known as the Great Rendez­ vous on the Santa Fe Trail. to san Diego. Thanks again to Darold of the ground was full of these shining McDanneldfor making this document particles, In taking up a handful of gravel Identification was done by Kansas avaUable.) any place on the surface hundreds ofthose • State University ForestryDepartment. particles were discoverable and would ad­ Monday, November 10, 1850. Distance The age ofthe trees was established by here to the hand In flakes sufficiently large 13 miles to Mule Springs, first rate watering using the base from the Council Oak. to determine the nature of the precious place, wood some distance to the right. The A cross-section ofthe CouncilOakwas metal. Some small specimens were found country has materially changed. Good land used to estimate the age of the large of the gold In quartz. Traveled some 12 and plenty of grass. oaks located In the area. The measur­ miles, encamp'd without water and nothing Ing guidelines are In accordance with Tuesday, November 11, 1850. Distance but some dead grass thinly scattered over the American Forestry Assoclatlon's M 15 miles to Cook's Springs. Plenty ofwater, the ground. Made our fires of the mescal MNational Register of Big Trees. wood and grass scarce, country In appear­ and grease brush on the gravel containing At Council Grove ten Bur Oaks and ance as yesterday. the precious metal, all of which we would two Eastern Cottonwoods were meas­ Wednesday, November 12, 1850. Dis­ gladly exchange for plenty of good grass ured. Sprout dates of the Bur Oaks tance 23 miles. Encamped In the valley of and water. range from 1694 to 1824, and the the Mimbres near the creek, a beautiful Monday, November 17, 1850. Some 7 or 1803 Cottonwood sproutdates are and stream and the valley ofrich land. The past 8 miles on our front Is a very extensive 1855. These are some of the oldest 3 or 4 days very cold storm. Some snow on Valley containing to all appearance a large trees In Kansas. Council Grove was the mountain tops, cold winds and some body of water which we supposed was the named for this grove. rain in .the Valleys. The Mimbres here flows River Gila, but after traveling half the day Josiah Gregg, In Commerce of the In a direction from North to South. Six or found to our mortl1lcation that It was only a Prairies (1844), stated that the Council seven miles before reaching camp our very extensive range of sand which In the Grove comprised a continuous strip of company separated, 4 waggons from our rainy season Is covered with water, but timber Including the richest varieties train taking the right hand road to the cop­ perfectly dry and hard at the present We of trees. Captain Philip St. George per mines, the remaining 6 waggons (viz) continued our journey until evening (con­ Cooke described the Grove as a luxu­ 3 belonging to the Cram family, 2 to the siderably cast down in spirits In conse­ riant, heavily-timbered bottom cover- Crandel, and one ofmine continued on our quence of the want of water) through a . Ing about 160 acres. Other Trail trav­ joumey to the Colorado. dreary sandy sterile region. Encamp'd for elers called the Grove Man oasis In the Thursday, November 13, 1850. Pass'd the night without water, our animals and wilderness" and a Mbeautlful rich grove today a beautiful level country ofgood land ourselves beginning to suffer considerable near one mile In width." and grass, the valley of the Mimbres. En­ for the want ofthat necessary article. About The trees provided shelter for travel­ camp'd near the dry bed of a small creek in 11 o'clock In the night we again started ers. firewood, and hardwood for wagon the prairie, distance 20 miles. Cold night, forward traveling about 10 miles. Stopped repairs. Information about the trees the water froze over 1/2 Inch thick. The sun about daybreak, turned our cattle loose to may be obtained from the CVB and pleasant, and warm in the daytime. graze again without water. One of the party Cote, 200 W Main, Council Grove KS Friday, November 14, 1850. Retraced and myself went back 1 1/2 miles In quest 66846. The trees may be viewed on a our steps some 6 miles, took another road of water, found a quart or two in a puddle driving tour ofCouncil Grove. up a canyon to the Northwest some 10 frozen over, took the ice and went back to miles, again found ourselves to be on the camp. This with some little milk from our wrong road, and concluded to retrace our cows made up some bread of which we steps In the morning. made our breakfast, with about a gill of Sunday, November 16, 1850. last night water to each person. we had concluded ourselves on the wrong Tuesday, November 18, 1850. Contin­ road, but after encamping two of our party ued our joumey, some 3 or 4 of our com­ In searching out the road found an outlet pany having gone on In advance to search from the Valley leading west which proved for water. At the distance of4 or5 miles met to be the right road. The head ofthis canyon a Mexican train on their way to EI Paso, part opens into a small valley of good land and of the Boundary Commission. They gave grass, plenty of water and wood, and Is an us the very gratifying Information that at the excellent place for travelers to rest and distance of some 6 miles ahead we should recruit themselves. There were two shel­ find plenty of water, which in the evening ters made in the valley either by emigrants we to our great joy succeeded In reaching or c:Xhers in order to accomodate them­ after being deprived of this great blessing selves while remaining in the valley. From nearly 3 days. Encamp'd for the night near appearances It is a place of considerable the base of a mountain near the water, thus resort both for Indians, Mexicans and having pass'd this dreary waste ofbetween This Bur Oak at 115 E Main, Council Americans. Retracing our steps about a 1/2 40 or 50 miles without water. From the .Grove, has a sprout date of 1694. mile the road leads off to the right through crossing ofthe Mimbres to this place on the

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old road is a distance of 60 miles without today about 6 miles. Encamp'd on the prai­ south, we suppose to be a trlblAary ofthe water, and we are told on the other road rie at a place where we found water by San Pedro. Last night and night before south of this by Yanez Is a Jomada of 90 digging, having had none since yesterday found plenty ofwater melted from the snow miles without water. morning. In the bed of the creek. Wednesday, November 19, 1850. Con­ Wednesday, November 26, 1850. C0n­ Thursday, December4, 1850. Remained tinued in camp all day to rest our cattle. tinued our course up the valley, distance In camp all daytorest ourcattle, ourwomen I Thursday, November 20, 1850. We re- about 10 or 12 miles. During the night had to wash etc. traced our steps this momlng some 3 01 5 a severe storm ofsnow from the north west. Friday, December 5; 1850. Continued miles down the opening In the mountains . Thursday, November 27, 1850. This ourcourse southwardly up thevalley. Atthe having had to come up here to get water. morning snow about a foot In depth, stOlm distance of3 or 4 miles came tothe ruin of Tuming to the right round the. mountain continued until mid-day or noon. Cold wind considerable extent The habitations were some 4 or 5 miles a south direction, then from the northwest, began to clear a little In built of adobe and apparently were ofMexl· again west through an opening In the main­ the afternoon. Prospect gloomy, nothing can origin and In all probability were de­ tains. Encamp'd in a vailey without water. but the power of the Lord extended In our stroyed bythe Indians. Just below thistown Distance some 10 or 12 miles and about 6 behalf can save us. Provisions growing to the east plenty ofwater, supposed to be miles from our encampment of yesterday. scarce In the Valley of the Cordilleras, sur­ the waters of the San Pedro, pure to our Over a mountain to the right the road con­ rounded by mountains covered with snow, satisfaction We again fell In with the emi­ tinues to be ofthe most dreary and desolate .far from the abode of man. . grant road ieading westward after traveling appearance, the greater portion ofthe ro8d Friday, November 28, 1850. Pass'd a some 3 weeks without any road. We su~ composed of gravel and stones very Injuri­ cold night but lay comfortable In our wag­ posed that we lost upwards of100 miles by ous to the feet ofour celtle, the greater part gens. little snow in the night, the prospect taking a northwest direction In search of of which are lame and tender footed, and Is good this morning for the weather to Emory's route. Our cattle suffered saverly we can only travel very slow in conse­ clear. Wind from the northwest, about noon in traveling this route without any road over quence of these troubles. This part of the clouds dispersed, sunshines pleasant, the rocky uneven country, a great part of mountains abound in cactus, prickly pear prospect for better weather. The wind has which Is covered with volcanic and other and thoms of different kinds, some ofwhich blown the snow from the tufts of grass so rocks. We fOund however gooO grass for are from 2 to 3 Inches long and very plenty that our cattle can get something to eat We our cattle the greater part ofthe route, and in some places, and so very sharp that to trust In the arm of the Lord fOl deliverance. through the great mercies ofthe Lord found all .appearanl;:es they would run almost ~aturday, November 29, 1850. Re­ reasonable water by digging and melting through a naked foot The dry of the bed mained In camp today. Weather more fa­ snow for our cattle. The longest privation creek at our camp seems to take a direction vorable. was 3 days and 2 nights as mentioned westward evidently leading to the waters of above. Continued our course westward the Pacific, so that I conclude we are begin­ Sunday, November 30, 1850. Snow con­ some seven miles. Encamp'd near the ning to get on the westem slope «;»f the siderably melted, resumed our journey banks of dry creek in a passage of the Cordilleras. through the valley. Distance about 10 or 12 Mountains. Water by digging. miles. Friday, November 21, 1850. Distance Saturday, December 6, 1850. Remained today 8 or 10 miles. Same rocky, barren Monday, December 1, 1850. Ourjourney in camp today, Sabbath Day meeting in the desolate road and country as yesterday. In through the valley, very difficult t~veling, afternoon. the ground very soft and mostly covered the afternoon reached a valley through Sunday, December 7, 1850. Some rain which flowed a small stream of clear good with volcanic rock that cut the feet of our cattle very much. Our teams failing fast. last night with promise of rainy day. Ceas'd water, a tributary of the Gila, a very wel­ raining, continued our jOumey through the come friend to us. Encamp'd on its banks. One oxfailed yesterday and was left on the road, another failed and was butchered for mountain passwestward ofdistance of6 or Our young men killed an antelope - quite a 7 miles. treat In our circumstances. The rocks on meat our road in this part of the mountains bear Tuesday, December 2, 1850. Todayal­ Monday, December 8, 1850. Rain during evident marks of volcanic origin and have most Impossible to travel. Our oxen's feet the night, very little water for ourselves or been exposed to the action offire. The soil, are all sore. We have commenced to put cattle. Continued our course through a val­ a large proportion of which is gravel Is so moccasins on them out of rawhide which ley. Found some rain water In a ravine· a light in many places that In walking over it answers a good purpose. Killed an ante­ great blessing. Distance of8 0110 miles. In your feet will sink to the depth of an inch lope today. I forgot to mention that about 2 the evening one of our hunters killed a wild while in others it Is so hard that a waggon miles before reaching camp on the 26th bull some4 milesfrom camp. We supposed will make scarcely any Impression. found plenty ofwater about 100yardstothe it to weight some 6 or 7 hundred. 11 of the company carried It aJllnto camp by moon­ Saturday, November 22, 1850. Re­ right ofthe road. That part ofthe valley was beautifully situated and very rich In soil In light on their shoulders, a heavy job. En­ mained in camp all day on the banks ofthis camp'd without water, distance 10 miles. beautiful rivulet. the vicinity ofthose watering places, andfor some distance on either side were fOund Tuesday, December 9, 1850. Continued Sunday, November 23, 1850. Proceeded considerably quantities or broken pottery ourjourney all day, no water, In the evening up the valley this moming. About noon plainly Indicating tliat here was once a city found plenty. Also plenty of wood near the came to an Indian camp that seems to have or settlement of the ancient Inhabitants. water. Some ofthe ranges of mountains in been occupied during the summer. Here Wednesday, December 3, 1850. Our the east that we have passed appear today the road that we had pursued terminated. covered with snow. None In the valleys, continued our course up the valley without course today through the valley a little west of south, road seemed better, not quite so beautiful weather and good roads today. any road save a small Indlan path. Distance Distance 12miles. We are undertheneces­ 10 or 12 miles. many rocks 88 yesterday. In the afternoon entered a valley of rich soli. Distance some sity oftraveling slow our cattle are so wom Monday, November 24, 1850. Distance 6 miles. Employed most of the forenoon out. 15 miles. Our route stili up thevalley without putting moccMlns on the feet of our oxen. Wednesday, December 10, 1850. Good any road. Struck another path In the eve­ Encamp'd on the valley's west side. Plenty road today but ofa hilly character. In the ning. of water for 3 nights In succession. Have evening came on to a very extensive plain. Tuesday, November 25,1850. Distance encamp'd on the dry bed ofa creek running We conclude thatwe have passedthegreat

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Cordilleras. On our right and left are de­ pared to carry on their backs in conse­ movements ever since in the expectation tached mountains of great height but of a quence of the loss of our cattle. of getting the remainder, but being dissap­ different appearance. Many of them are . Tuesday, December 16, 1850. Started pointed in this they sought the death of covered with grass. Encamp'd at the base early this morning. We have good weather some of our company by wflf of revenge. of a mountain without water. A small herd at present but we are fearful of change. Friday, December 19, 1850. Continued of wild horses consisting of 7 pass'd the Distance today 7 or 8 miles. On the road in our joumey over the mountain, the most front waggons a short distance ahead. advance of uswe see plenty ofIndian pony rugged, rocky and worst road we have ex­ They are fine looking animals. They seem tracks, Intending no doubt to lay In wait and perienced on the whole route. Succeeded to be numerous in this part of the country, drive offthe remainder ofourcattle tonight, in getting over this mountain range after a judging from the many tracks seen on or but we intend to make the best arrange­ very fatiguelng days travel of some 6 or 8 crossing the road. ments we can to prevent them. miles, carrying the corpse of the deceas'd • \ Thursday, December 11, 1850. Distance Wednesday, December 17, 1850. along till we find a suitable place for his about 8 miles. Came to water by digging in Cloudy weather this morning, prospect of interrment. During the night we hear in the the bed of the creek a few steps to the left rain. The country Improves very much. Rich distance the barking of dogs, and also In ofthe road - plenty of water. Water'd all our valleys, beautiful steams of water OCC8S­ the morning early the ringing of bells, con­ cattle which occupied considerable time. sionally cross our track, plenty of timber in sequently conclude we are near Santa Concluded to remain all night. Distance 7 various directions skirting the mountains, Cruz. or 8 miles. principally, chiefly cedar, some willows. Saturday, December 20, 1850. Com­ Friday, December 12, 1850. Distance Our sick list are Improving some In health. menc'd our journey this morning and after today about 10 miles, camp'd near a bluff Pass'd today a short distancefrom the road passing some rugged hills at the distance on the left of the road. Plenty of grass and the ruins of a Mexican settlement or ran­ of 4 or 5 miles encamp'd In the valley near water and wood up the bluff. chero, a short distance to our left situated Santa Cruz. 30 or 40 steps from our camp Saturday, December 13, 1850. Re­ on the edge of a rich and pleasant valley we dug a grave and buried the young man main'd here all day, held meeting twice. with a beautiful stream of water running that was killed by the Indians on the 18th. Sunday, December 14,1850. This morn­ close to the ruins. Distance some 7 or 8 We learned from the Mexicans that the ing found 16 of our best oxen missing. We miles. Encamped on the valley. Apaches had killed one oftheir men and 14 oxen the day before our arrival, In all prob­ have rested for some length of time some Thursday, December 18, 1850. Consid­ hundreds of miles In perfect security in ability the same party or part of them that erable rain during the night, snow on the stole our cattle and killed our young man. regard to our having seen no danger not mountain tops, wind from the east. Sunday, December 21 , 1850. Remained any Indians since leaving Socorro. Whilst Weather very agreeable when the sun In camp all day. We Intend to remain 3 or 5 searching for our oxen we discovered 5 sh!nes, much more so than the latitude of Indians coming down the valley on horse­ the states from which we came. Very little days and rest ourselves and cattle. Cloudy all dflf and some rain. back. The conviction Immediately forced Improvement In the health of our sick this itself on our minds what had become of our morning. There are many curiosities and Monday, December 22, 1850. Clear this cattle that the Indians had got them, which valuables in these rough rocky mountains. morning, little frost in the night Santa Cruz prov'd to be the fact. They had been sta­ A moming or two ago while our company was settled at an early day by the Span­ tioned round our camp through the night were cooking breakfast on the banks of a iards and appears to have been a place of watching for a favorable opportunity to small stream our children found plenty of considerable Importance formerly, but is drive offourcattle, and we resting in perfect diamonds on the banks ofthe stream such now fast falling into decay and ruin In con­ security not dreaming of the least danger as are used in cutting glass. Left the valley sequence ofthe frequent incursions ofthe near us. This was by far the most calami­ today passing through a rich upland. En­ Apaches. We have already pass'd many tous event that had yet happened to our tered the passes ofthe great dividing ridge ruins of Mexican towns and settlements company. It was a merciful providence that ofthe mountains. In the aftemoon began to that have been overrun by the Indians and they did not succeed in driving away all our ascend the mountain, very precipitous and destroy'd and I think a few years more stock although it Is very disastrous. The rocky and difficult of ascent. Encamp'd Santa Cruz will share the same fate. A company have only 20 head of cattle left about haJfdlstance upthe mountain Imme­ small garrison of soldiers is kept here for and the greater part poor and weakly. I lost diately after our encampment one of our the protection but sotroublesome and hos­ my best yoke. We have onlyteams enough young men by the name of Silas Crandal tile arethe Indiansthat nothing can be done leftforour waggons. Twowill haveto be left went out from camp 3 or 4 hundred yards without a guard. Hauling wood and farming of the 6. Many useful articles and very distance for the purpose of getting some operations cannot be carried on without a necessary must of necessity be left In order pinons, a kind of nut growing on the pine of guard. The town Is located on the borders to get on with what teams we have left. these mountains, when he was immedi­ of a rich valley bounded by the mountains Remain'd here all day devising and contriv­ ately shot by an Indian, and expired almost west and east, with a nice clear stream of ing the best plan for us to continue our Immediately to the great grief and sorrow water running through it (Rio Santa Cruz). journey. of his father's family and of his young wife The Indians made another Inroad this Monday, December 15, 1850. Remain'd who were in the company. It seems that a morning about 9 or 10o'clock and drove off . in camp till noon fixing and arranging our party of 4 were on top of the mountain about 20 mules from Santa Cruz. And 1/2. loads for further travel. Left one waggon on above us and had been watching our mo­ or 3/4 of a mile distant from us they were the ground, burnt up several ox yokes and tions until we encamped; waiting for an pursued by the Mexicansbutwere not over­ otherarticles. Three ofBrotherCram'sfam­ opportunity to destroy some of the com­ taken. By the advice of the Military Com­ i1y sick with fever of some kind. Only about pany. We saw three of them run on the mandant we this afternoon moved our a weeks provision on hand. Ignorant ofthe ridge of the elevation above us and raise camp into town as they thought for our distance to a settlement. Prospect gloomy, the yell. Immediately after the disaster our greater safety. Rented a room for the ac­ our only salvation is in the Lord, I pray that men ran downtowherethe young man was commodation of our sick, they do not seem we may be preserved. Commenc'd our shot and saw one run from him. These 4 to Improve much as yel journey, traveled about 6 or 8 miles. Ught­ we suppose were all that were ofthe com­ Tuesday, December 23, 1850. Some ened up onewaggon so thattheyoung men pany. We concluded they were the same prospects of getting a little work to do for drew it along by hand putting each one of party of Apaches that stole our cattle last the Mexicans. Cold nights and warm days his knapsack of clothing that they had pre- Saturday and have been watching our when the sun shines.

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Wednesday, December 24, 1850. This tion (San Diego). Our sick are improving miles. In the evening met with a large num­ morning we learn that we cannot obtain any slowly. ber ofIndians probably 2 to 3 hundred. Our work, the Mexicans are not disposed to Tuesday and Wednesday, December 30 small company were considerably alarmed patronize the Americans when they can and 31, 1850. Still remain in Santa Cruz thinking they were Apaches, and that we avoid it. This is Christmas eve today. The waiting on the recovery ofthesick. Weather should all be deStroyed unless protected by Mexicans about 12 o'clock today had con­ mild and pleasant This being New Year's the arm of the Lord. They proved to be a siderable of ringing of bells and shooting of Eve had quite a stir among the Santa Cru­ body offriendly Indians ofthe Quapas tribe guns, I suppose a custom ofthe Romanists. slons, a festival, great ringing of bells and going to Santa Cruz trading. They had a They hold a festival I understand at Christ­ meeting in the church. After night ttte number of packs of commodities of one mas. I expect we shall see a further dem­ greater part of our company. attended the description or another. They were very onstration tomorrow. Part of the American meeting. Quite an illumination about 30 friendly and sociable. 42 came into our boundary com mission are here and will candles burning at once, the performances camp, the main body ofthe company pass­ leave in a few days for the Pimo's village. in singingwere very good. Many other cere­ ing by. These remained a short time taiklng A short time after sunset this evening a monies of a religious nature were per­ with our company then left to follow after furious ringing of bells commenced to­ formed during the evening, the purport of their com rades. Several ofthem spoke the .•, gether with a shooting of guns which was which I did not understand not being ac­ Mexican language, two of our company kept up by the shooting at intervals till mid­ quainted with the language. Considerable aiso spokethe language - by this means we night, as also singing and praying by the display of magnificence and riches In the could exchange ideas. women and again before daylight. Priest's robes and some Images which Thursday, January 8, 1851. The weather Thursday, December 25, 1850. In the seemed to be held in great reverance. The continues good. Last evening about 3 miles morning some shooting and considerable purport ofthe meeting as I afterwards was before camping pass'd a very extensive ringing of bells at the church which stands inform'd was to retum thanks tothe Lord for rancho on our left which seems to have at the distance of about 100 yards from our the mercies and blessings that had been been fitted up with considerable taste by waggons. Very early a procession was enjoy'd during the past year. the owner. Quite a number of fruit trees of seen leading to the Church composed ThUrsday, January 1,1851. Thismorning the peach, pear and plum kinds all turned mostly offemales attended by a few males, meeting in the church at an early hour, the out to waste. The place was deserted, no hat in hand. The procession was headed by object of which was to Implore the protec­ doubt on account of the hostility of the a young girl some 16 years of age carrying tion of the Lord for the coming year. Wit­ surrounding Indians. Our route today lay before her on a cushion an image fitted up nessed another funeral ceremony this af­ through a beautiful Valley. Pass'd another for the occasion, and as I supposed was ternoon. deserted tenement on our left Encamp'd intended to represent the Saviour bourne in near the same creek this evening (Rio the arms of a Virgin, the males in atten­ Friday and Saturday, January 2 and 3, Santa Cruz). 1851. No very material change In the con­ dance shooting guns at intervals. Shortly Friday, January 9, 1851. Our road con­ afterwards a small company of troops sta­ dition of our sick. Cold nights and warm days. This evening one of our company of tinues down the valley nearthe creek. Con­ tion'd in this place entered the church In siderable timber bordering the stream, military order, every individual taking off his the sick number breathed her last. This was Rebecca Cram, aged 58 years and nearly chiefly cottonwood. It is of a larger and . hat before entering. A short time afterwards better growth than any we have seen and was seen another small procession con­ nine months. Sister Cram was a rare and exemplary woman, an omament to hersex, would do well to saw Into lumber. The mes­ sisting of 6 females dressed up entirely in quite bush has alsogreatly improved In size black. After the services were over the pro­ and a devoted Christian, strong in faith and the work of the Lord of the last day. She and grows here Into considerable large cession carrying the image retumed borne trees and Is excellent for firewood. by a male of the company, the females at bore with great patience and resolution the Saturday, January 10, 1851. Sabbath. the same time chanting a hymn or anthem fatigues and privations of the journey from suitable for the occasion, each individual her home, thus far a distance of some 16. Lay in camp and had meeting twice. separating after the ceremonies of the or 17 hundred miles, and although she had Sunday, January 11, 1851. Vailey road morning were over to their several homes a great desire to see the land the Lord had all day. Distance 10 miles. Overtaken by to spend the day as their feelings or the kept in reserve for the gathering of his Indian women on foot from Santa Cruz on solemnities of their religion required. I for­ saints in the last days, yet inasmuch as it their road toTucson. Weather very dry and got to mention that In the performances of was otherwise decreed In the providence of warm. The shade is very acceptable with last evening a serenading was kept up till a Heaven she felt resigned to the will of the our coats off In the middle of the day. Lord. late hour by persons having a Violin and Monday, January 12, 1851. Valley road some other instrument, either a drum or tin Sunday, January 4, 1851. Paid the last continues, considerable cooler today, pan, it was difficult to determine from the duties of our departed sister and deposited some appearances of a storm. In the eve­ sound and in the dark which ofthe two the her remains about half mile north of Santa ning arrived at a smail Mexican village sound resembled. About 12 o'clock another Cruz near the road and also near the grave (Tawaka) located near the small stream ringing of bells for a short time. Rain In the of the young man killed by the Indians as before mentioned. This place had been aftemoon. mentioned before, 2 weeks ago. In ·the deserted for some time In consequence on Friday, December 26, 1850. Not much evening m<7lfed out oftown about a halfmile the Indian depredations. Some three improvement in the condition of our sick. for the purpose of washing and preparing months ago afew fam Illes returned and are Some rain in the aftemoon. for further travel. now living here. Saturday, December 27, 1850. Our sick Monday, January 5, 1851. Remained In . Tuesday, January 13,1851. Remain'din some better this morning. The citizens very camp, some ofthe men working in town for the village all day In order to obtain provi­ friendly but like to make the best bargains the Mexicans. sions. We find that there are none to be they can by trading. Tuesday, January 6, 1851. Remained In obtain'd except beans and those at 16 dol­ lars a fanaga Very cold and cloudy today Sunday, December 28 and Monday, De­ camp today. Greatfestivai among the Mexi­ for this climate. cember 29, 1950. We still remain here wait­ cans today, the feast of Guadaloupe. ing on the recovery ofthe sick. This morn­ Wednesday, January 7, 1851. Recom­ Wednesday. January 14, 1851. This ing the United States boundary commis­ menced our joumey this momlng down morning the Inhabitants are anxious to sion departed for the point oftheir destina- through the mountain pass. Distance 8 have us remain here for a time and do some

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carpenters work for them. They promise to to us and evince no disposition to steal of different kinds, but the fear oftheir ene­ furnish us with provisions. We have con­ anything from us, the very reverse to what mies, the Apaches deters them from trying cluded to remain a short time in order to do the Mexicans are on the Del Norte. We to obtain them. some work and obtain a supply. have been most agreeably dissappointed Monday, February 23, 1851. Witnessed Saturday, January 17, 1851. We have by the character and disposition of the So­ a religious procession last evening at the nice pleasant weather again, It is like spring norans, the manifestations of good will to­ citizens. It consisted entirely offemales. In in the states. ward the American families is the same In front was an Image representing some par­ all the towns we have pass'd west of the ticular saint bome by a female attended by Saturday, January 24, 1851. We are stili Cordilleras and Is superior to anything I in this little town doing carpenter work for 3 or 4 others, each one carrying a lighted have ever experience in the United States candle. A short distancefrom our residence the Mexicans. Twofamilies ofthe company as a general thing. We moved our camp have concluded to remain here and raise a the whole procession knelt down before the into town In the evening, and after night Image and sung a hymn They then arose crop. Brother Cram's and minewill continue witnessed a solemn procession this being our journey to Tucson. and proceeded on as before until they a feast day of some particular saint The reached the church. What followed I did not Wednesday, January 28, 1851. Left Tu­ procession was composed chiefly of observe. bac this afternoon, moved out about 3 miles women. In front a platform was borne by a and encamp'd for the night. Sunday, March 1, 1851. Still In Tucson. few Individuals on which stood an image, Weather fine, delightful climate. During the Thursday, January 29, 1851. Distance clothed In women's attire and Intended to past week one of our cows died, a great today about 12 miles. Camp 3/4 of a mile represent the Virgin Mary. Around this Im­ lossto us In our circumstances. A few days to the left to the road where wefound some age and a short distance from It were ago we received Information that a small water. Some snow on the mountain tops to placed 5 or 6 lighted candles. Over the village inhabited by the Quapaws, Sonore­ our right Pleasant and warm in the valiey wholewas a canopy ofsome linen orcotton ans, and a few Pimos had been attacked on our road. cloth supported at each corner by a pole in by the Apaches, some 10 or 12 of the Friday, January 30, 1851. Distance 12 or the hand of some person appointed for the Inhabitants kill, some 30 or 40 women and 15 miles. The country sandy and mesquite purpose. When a little past our camp the children taken captive and all their stock and greasewood the principal growth. whole procession came to a halt, knelt, driven away. down, sung an anthem ortuneofsome kind Spring is making considerable advances, Friday, March 6, 1851. Last evening a the treas In many places are quite green, (as I supposed) In honor of the Virgin, the procession then proceeded onward as be­ large body of Apaches made a decent on twigs on the cottonwoods have grown sev­ San Arvlelle, a village 10 miles east ofthis, eral inches. Encamp'd without water. fore with some kind of discordant music peculiar to the Romanlsts of this country. I drove away all the cattle, (a large stock) Saturday, January 31, 1851. Distance could not forbear comparing in my mind the besides killing two of the inhabitants. A about 12 miles. Encamp'd near the Qua­ difference between the ridiculous ceremo­ messengerwas sent tothis place late In the paw Village. nies of superstition, the blind bigotry of idol evening. Some 30 of the troops stationed Sunday, February 1, 1851. Pass'd worship and the glorious light and intelli­ In this place were sent In pursuit, they have through the village this morning. The great­ gence taught in the religion of Jesus as not yet returned. We are threalen'd with an est curiosity and the onlything worth of note revealed in the lalter day work by the full­ attack at this place today. These frontier is a Roman Church that from its appear~ ness of the gospel. The town bears evident posts are alway in daily expectation of an ance seems to have been built a great marks ofage. Considerable pari ofthe town attack from the Apaches and having their many years ago. Considerable taste dis­ Is surrounded by a wall built of the adobe cattle drove away. played In its construction. A great deal of some 6 feet in height and has been in­ Sunday, March 8, 1851. The party re­ carving & fanciful decorations in front as tended as a defense from the depredations turn'd without being able to recover any of you enter the building by permission ofthe of the Indians. The old church has fallen the stolen property. inhabitants. We obtained leave to go in and unto ruins, or at least aconsiderable portion Sunday, March 15, 1851. We have learnt view the interior. Our guide very politely of it, and the town is fast following after. more correctly since the news of San Ar­ took the trouble to show us everything of Tuesday and Wednesday, February 3 vielle that the Indians had only stolen a few importance. Language wouldfall me to give and 4, 1851. Making arrangements to get of their cattle. A few nights ago a few a description of all that was to be seen. into employment for a short time in order to Apaches again enter'd the above named Sufficient to say that the wall was painted Improve our stock of provisions. Consider­ village in the night, drove offsome 16 head with images of various descriptions to­ able rain during the night. ofcattle creating a great alarm in this place. gether with a number of statues In the A number of persons again went In pursuit various niches In the wall representing our Saturday, February 7, 1851. Stili in Tuc­ but were unable to overtake them. son preparing for work. Weather fine and Saviour in a variety of conditions from his Saturday, March 21, 1851. Making infancy to the end of his life on earth, as warm. Quite a number ofIndians are living In this place of Quapaw, friendly Apache preparations to leave In a few days. Some also the Virgin Mary and many otherfigures of the company Intend starting tomorrow. and representations peculiar to the Aorrian and a few Pimos. faith. The floor was all laid In cement and Sunday, March 22,1851. Today a com- . Saturday, February 14,1851. Employed pany of Mexican soldiers under the com­ smoothe as glass. The whole seemed to this week in doing little jobs of carpenter's mand of Captain Gomez started on an have been admirable calculated to suit the work for the citizens. Also some of our expedition against the Apache Indians to taste of the time in Which it was built. It Is company are engaged plowing some now fast falling into decay. Continued on seek redress for the many thefts they had ground to sow wheat. We are under the committed In stealing cattle, horses, etc. our journey 12 miles, arrived at Tucson. necessity of remaining until our means for Here we intend to stay a short time and travel are replenished. This Is a delightful Monday, March 23, 1851. Today wit­ recruit ourselves and cattle. climale but the Inhabitants are Indolent. ness'd a funeral procession of the com­ Monday, February 2; 1851. Busily en­ They do not exert themselves to obtain any mandant of Tucson according to Roman gaged today trying to rent some rooms for more than what their most pressing neces­ custom. In the afternoon bid adieu to Tuc­ our accomodatlon for a short time. Our sities require, and spend the remaining son, moved out about 9 miles and encam­ camp is a short distance from town. The time In idleness. We are informed that the p'd for the night. Waler very scarce. Mexican ladies come out in numbers to visit surrounding mountains contain an abun­ Tuesday, March 24, 1851. Moved on ourwomen. They are very kind and obliging dance of the precious metal besides ores about 12 miles, the day being very warm.

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We halted at the termination of a range of day about 8 miles. Were visited today by a family made his escape after being se­ mountains to rest ourteams. The mountain number of the Marlcopas with articles to verely wounded andwasfound bythe Marl­ is here covered with confused masses of trade. copas. He states the family were all mur­ rock on many of which are Inscribed a Wednesday, April 1, 1851. In the evening dered with the exception oftwo daughters, number of hyeroglyphical characters of proceeded on our joumey through a desert young women of the family. The waggon very ancient appearance, an examination or jomado of45 miles. Here again we fell In had been destroyed, the boxes and trunks of which created considerable Interest In with waters of the Gila We traveled the broken to pieces and left on the ground. All the minds of many of our company. At the greater parts of2 nights and one day before the property of any value and use to the distance of 2 or 3 hundred yards from our reaching the river. murderers had been carried away. In our resting place along the base of the moun­ Friday, April 3, 1851. Proceeded on our search we found a small paper box on tain were the remains of a stone wall of a which was written the name of Lucy Oat­ square form fallen into a confused mass of journey down the river without grass. The river has increas'd In size considerable man. We therefore concluded the mur­ ruins. We traveled on till about midnight and Is a swift running stream of good pure dered persons to be the family of Royce over a desolate waste, then rested till day­ Oatman, one of the families aller the first light. Continued our journey till noon before water. In the evening encamped near the river. We found a little grass but not enough company which started for the settlement reaching grass and water, a distance of 30 for our animals. In our camp are 3 Marico­ on the Colorado from the states July, 1849. miles from our camp of Monday. Here we pas Indians that have been with and fol­ We had frequently heard from the Indians found good grass and water In pools. Re­ and Mexicans that a family had been de­ main'd here all day and until the evening of lowed us since leaving their village. They are very friendly. They are either going stroy'd on the Gila, but did not credit the the 26th Thurs. Traveled a distance of 25 story until we reached the scene of the miles and upwards during the night and down the river some distance to hunt or on a scouting party to watch the motions ofthe tragedy. The discovery cast a gloom on our succeeding day. Yumas, their enemies. minds. Proceeding on our journey we Friday, March 27, 1851.lntheaftemoon cross'd another mountain and continuing Saturday, April 4, 1851. Some consider­ found grass and water, remain'd all night. down the valley we pass'd the remains ofa able rain during the night and this morning. number of waggons and a great deal of Saturday, March 28, 1851. Continued We were compelled on account of want of our journey some 12 miles. Found good property that had been left and destroy'd on grass to proceed on our joumey. The road this dreary road. About noon we found a grass and water in pools. Arrived and re­ continues down the valley of the river, a mained during the night on the banks ofthe little grass. We halted to rest our cattle and continual desert of sand and brush wood. let them feed. In the afternoon proceeded Gila, a stream we have long desired to see. In the evening turning to the right towards In the evening we were overtaken by 6 on our journey and until after night in order the river and following the tracks of former to find grass, according to the Instructions Indians of the Pimas, very friendly. They travelers we found at the distance of two remained some time in camp before leav­ ofour Indian guide. Camp'dabout 9 o'clock miles a good camping ground and a little where we found some grass. ing. Four Americans also came to meet us grass for our animals, a scarce article on from the village a distance of 10 miles. They this river. Tuesday, April 7, 1851. Remaln'd all day arrived here some 10 or 12 days ago on in camp in order to rest our catUe. A few Sunday, April 5, 1851. Leaving our en­ theirway to Califomia from Santa Fe. yards distant is a high bluff of rocks on campment we proceeded onward. We many of which are written the names of Sunday, March 29, 1851. In the morning pass'd through an opening in the moun­ pursued our journey to the village. A great persons passing this road at different times tains. After going a few miles we pass'd on on their way to California We learn from number of the Pimos came out on the road the right of our road a large mass of con­ our Indians In company no more grass on to meet our company and seemed to be fused rocks. The larger portion of those very glad at our arrival, were ~ery friendly. the road till we reach the Colorado, a dis­ bordering on the road were covered with tance of 100 miles and upwards. We continued on to our camp In one ofthe hyeroglyphlc characters, very interesting, fields belonging to the Pimos. Almost im­ the work of Neophites, the ancient inhabi­ Wednesday, April 8, 1851. Proceeded on mediately quite a number of the Pimos tants ofthiscontinent These characters no our journey. This morning our 3 Indian brought into camp a quantity of meal and doubt contained the history ofsome Impor­ friends retuming back to their village, not flour for sale, some peas and com. The tant event concemlng the people by whom daring to go any further with us for fear of evening being cold and windy we did not they were written. In the evening came to their enemies, the Yumas. Our road contin­ trade much. the foot of a mountain near by which runs ues down the Valley of the river, generally Monday, March 30, 1851. This morning the river. Our road layover this mountain sand and gravel, destitute ofgrasS, In some a great number ofthe Indians were In at an the most difficult of ascent of any we had places covered with a stunted growth of early hour for the purpose of trading. They yet pass'd, being entirely covered with mesquite and other kinds of brush w~ of ask a most extravagant price for all they rocks and of very abrupt ascent. We how­ smaller size. The bottom bears evident have to trade as high as 12 dollars a fa­ ever got over by unloading our w~gons marks from the appearance of driftwood naga for f1ou~ and meal. They Inhabit a and doubling teams. After passing we seen in many places of being inundated beautiful and rich valley and seem to be moved down towards the river and camp'd from the river to a depth ofseveral feet and very happy and contented. In t~ course of for the night without grass. for many miles in extent. In the aftemoon turn'd some 3 or 2 miles to ourright towards the day we succeeded In trading for as Monday, April 6, 1851. Started early and the river and encamp'd for the night and \ much flour as we wanted at very extrava­ after proceeding about a mile we ascended found some grass for our cattle - a great gant rates. They crowded round our wag­ a mountain. On the top wefound the bones gons and contrary to our expectations they blessing to us. of 5 or 6 persons who had been murdered , stole some small articles from us. I am of last season by the Indians. The persons Thursday, April 9, 1851. Threw away two the opinion that many of them are honest, consisted of a single family, the husband, feather beds this morning and a chest to but it is also certain that many of them are wife and children who had been traveling lighten our load. A day or two ago threw very dishonest and will steal and de~aud at this dangerous road alone. With one wag­ away a good many other articles In order to every opportunity. Some of their Chiefs are gon. The bodies had been lain togeth~ and lighten our load. Many waggons have been of this class. In the evening we left the covered with stone by some ofthe fl'lendly left on this road. village and proceeded on our journey 3 Maricopas who happened to be In the Friday and Saturday, April 10 and 11, miles. neighborhood. We understood that an In­ 1851. Continued our journey down the TueSday, March 31, 1851. Distance to- dian boy who happened to be with the river, sometimes on the bottom and some-

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times on higher ground. Vegetation and that prevails In this climate. The weather Is 1997 symposlum. marks of high water on the bottoms con­ fine and pl9aeant The Indians are almost • • • • • tinue the same. Grass very scarce article. constantly In our vicinity watching 10r 0p­ Paula Manlnl. Colorado Historical Sunday, April 12, 1851. Moved 3 or 4 portunities to steal mules and cattle and to kill all who may chanceto come In their way. Society curator at the Daca/Bloom miles today. Found some grass and re­ and Pioneer Museum on the Trail In mained all day 3/4 of a mile from the river. Last night two mules were stolen by them. An Indian was shot at and wounded but Trinidad, CO. reports that a grant has Monday and Tuesday, April 13 and 14, made his escape. After making another been received to expand the exhibits. 1851. Continued our journey today. We left great sacrifice this morning May 12th we The museum wUl be renamed the one of ourwaggons on the road, put all the got permission to go on to San Diego In a Santa Fe Trail Museum. ~her loading we could Into the and threw government traln~ We sold upwards 01 60 • • • • • many useful and valuable articles away. dollars worth of tools for 8 dollars, sold our WUllam Borst. Emporia. KS. and Put all our cattle we have left, 4 yoke, tothe last remaining head of cattle In order to get w~ggon John Richter. Topeka. KS. planned to one and continued our journey. along, nothing but some clothing left. Our ride bicycles from Santa Fe to Iode­ Wednesday, April 15, 1851. today the family continue to be afflicted with the pendencedurlng July. A report on aspect of the country Is somewhat scurvy. The road from the Colorado Is a their trip would be welcome. changed, the river Winding hs way among . dreary desert destitute ofwater and grass, • • • • • the mountains as well as the road. About 15 miles from the river, Cook's Wells you noon we emerg'd from the mountains. The get brackish water: From there to Sackel's . An illustrated article about the Max­ well Land Grant In northeastern New country before us appears to bemore open Wells a distance of n miles little or no and free from mountains but appears to be water. The desert is some 130 miles In Mexico appeared In the July 1995 is­ nothing but sand as far as the fJ'Ie can extent afterwhich In passing the mountains sue ·of Smlthsonlan, pp. 44-57. Max­ extend. Encamp'd on the road without the vallf1'/ became more and more fertile well's settlement. present Cimarron. grass or water. until you reach the coast. We arrived at San was on the Mountain Route. Thursday, April 16, 1851. About 10 Isabel about the 20th of May. On the 8th of • • • • • o'clock found by tuming to the right some July arrived into this house in New San Glen Maples. 83. husband of SFTA good grass for our cattle. In the aftemoon Diego. (1851) member and Texas Panhandle Chap­ some 10 miles In advance we discovered ter secretary Ruth Mary Maples. died what we considered to be the tents of sol­ May9, 1995, at AmarUlo. SympathyIs diers, which to our great satisfaction we extended to his family and friends. found to bethe case. Continued ourJour"fJ'l • • • • • until sometime after dark. Halted on the Keith Chadd. Dodge City artist, has bank of the long sought Colorado. On the painted pictures of how TraIl Forts opposite side is a station of American HOOF PRINTS Mann (1846-1848) and Atkinson Troops. (1850-1854) probably looked. These Friday, April 17, 1851. All the company -TRAIL TIDBITS will be on display dUring the 1995 crossed the river today which Is from 2 to3 Accordingto SFTA Am bassador Paul symposium. hundred yards wide. The ferriage cost a Bentrup. Bentrup's News Service. • • • • • .yoke of oxen and a mule. Philip L. Petersen, Bo~vI1le RevitaU­ The townsofCimarron andSpringer, Saturday, April 18, 1851. ThIs morning zatlon Committee, Is being treated for NM, have pubUshed handsome bro­ the company that Joined us at the Plmos a rare blood disease In San Diego, CA. chures which Include much informa­ continued their Joumey to San Diego, 8 In Latestword Is that he Is 1mprovingbut tion about the TraIl In those areas. number together with one of our company, stUlln ICU. We allwish him a swUl and D. H. Rodgers. The remainder of the com­ complete recovery. • • • • • pany intend to remain at this post a time, • • • • • USA Weekend, the national malfl­ being unable to proceed for the want of zlne carried by 304 Sunday newspa­ Marc Simmons will be unable to at­ pers across the country to more than cattle and means. We find it to be a very tend the 1995 symposlum because of difficult matter to obtain provisions here ­ 15 mUUon households, showcased the the need to protect his home and pos­ Dodge City, KS, area ofthe Trail asone flour 50cents per lb., sugar 50 cents, coffee sessions from vandals who are operat­ 75 cents. We are in straited circumstances, of "7 Terrific Trips." The cover article, Ing In his area. He thanks those who replete with color photographs, ap­ almost out of prc:Msions ardalmost desti­ have offered to stand guard duty so he tute of means to obtain more, very little peared across the U.S. In the malJi­ might attend but does not wish to zlne's Memorial Day weekend Sunday employment, and entirely out of waggons, expose anyone else to the danger in­ only 4 head of cattle left. Five more of our newspapers. Boy Scout Troop 108 of volved. We regret his absence and the Garden citywas featured In the Dodge company proceeded on to San Diego 2 reason for It. days ago in company of a waggon and City piece. It was noted they also vis­ • • • • • Ited Fort Lamed NBS. -; escort of soldiers. We intend to proceed onward as soon as we have opportunity. An article about the Trail, featUring • • • • • Sundays, April 26, 1851. Our situation "25 fascinating facts" and places to Paul Horgan, 91, died In March here Isvery unpleasant. We have no oppor­ visit, appeared In the June 1995 issue 1995. He received two PuUtzer Prizes tunity yet to proceed onward We are de­ of United AlrUnes in-flight magrulne, for books about New Mexico: Great pendent on government waggon for the Hemispheres. River: The Rio Grande In North Ameri­ further prosecution of our JoumfJ'l. The • • • • can History and Lamy of Santa Fe. commander of this post refuses to let us On Sept. 12, 1995, the Cimarron Another southwestern writer, Frank have provision, giving us a reason that his County Symposium Committee will Waters ofTaos, also died recently. HIs instructions are to let no one txt the soI- . hold Its first meeting at the Cimarron outstanding works Include The Man diers have provisions. I hope the time soon Heritage Center, Boise City, OK. This Who KUled the Deer, People ofthe Val­ will come that we can leave. Some of our committeewill work with theCimarron ley, TheYogi ofCocIcroadt Court. Pu1nI> family are afflicted with scurvy, a disease Cutoff Chapter of SFTA, host of the kin8eed Point, Book of the HopI,

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Woman atOrowiCro~mg. M~oo 1995. about a new book by Bill Lay TRAIL FAMILY PROJECT Gods. The Colorado. PUce's Peak. and titled Indian Trade Factories and Forts BraveAre My People. H one read noth­ in the Boonsllck, 1812-1814. This was THE Corazon de los Caminos Chapter ing but the works of these two literary the area where the Santa Fe Trail be­ is sponsoring a Trail Family History giants. he or she would have a good gan. The book is available from the Project as part of the 175th celebra­ understanding ofthe American South­ State Historical Society of Missouri. tion. Anyone with records about Trail west. Columbla. No price was gtven. travelers. merchants, teamsters. • • • • • • • • • • stagecoach drivers. soldiers. trappers. drovers. carpenters. stone masons. Santa Fe County commissioners On June 27. 1995. the National have imposed a one-year moratorium and operators of trading ranches. Frontier Trails Center. Independence. boarding houses. forage stations. on development on about 4.000 acres MO. welcomed its l00.00Oth visitor. ofCafiadade losAlamos nearSantaFe blacksmith shops. and others is in­ Art Klukkert ofSt. Petersburg. FL. The vited to provide Information andcopies because of threats to the historic NFTC opened March 30. 1990. Santa Fe Trail. The land presently be­ of letters. diaries. photographs, maps. longs to the Episcopal Diocese of the • • • • • and other records for this project. For Rio Grande and Includes Camp SFTA member and NPS -historian more information or to submit famUy Stoney. Descendants ofearlyHispanic Jere Krakow. who selVed on the NPS materials. contact Nancy Robertson. residents there hope to make the sUlVey of the Santa Fe National His­ PO Box 1516. Raton NM 87740. moratorium permanent to preselVe the toric Trail. is currently team captain The records will be filed in the Santa Trail and their heritage. for the NPS comprehenslve manage­ Fe Trail Archives at the Las Ve~ • • • • • ment and use plans for the recently­ Carnegie Public Library and the New authorized California and Pony Ex­ Mexico Genealogical Society Archives Deanne Wright. Council Grove. KS. in the Albuquerque SpecialCollections who recently retired from KKSU radio press National Historic Trails and for plan revisions of the Oregon and Mor­ Library. Descendants will be recog-­ at Kansas State University. has been mon NHTs. nized dUring the two-~ar celebration named the new curator of the Kaw ofthe opening of the Santa Fe Trail. Mission State Historic Site in Council • • • • • Grove. CongTatulations Deanne. SFTA members Ramon Powers. INDEX AVAILABLE • • • • • Jackie Lewin, and Greg Franzwa were. speakers at the August 13 dedication A Comprehensive Index to the New Michael Snell. son of former SFTA Mexico Genealogist. volumes 1-33. President Joe Snell, has produced a of Alcove Spring on the Oregon Trail. SFTA Ambassador Les Vilda reports 1962-1994. has been published by song. "The Santa Fe Trail." which is Ann L. Mossman for the New Mexico released through BMG Publishing/Fi­ that excessive heat plagued those pre­ sent. He never said whether the source Genealogical Society. Information on nal Four Music in Nashville. TN. He more than 1.200 MNew Mexico Ances­ ofthediscomfort was theAugustsouth would like It to be considered for use tors." living in the state before 1912 during the 175th anniversary celebra­ wind for which Kansas is famous or the gusts from the dais. has alreadybeen published. The Index tions. For further information. contact provides the name reference to the Michael Puryear at (6151 321-2113. • • • • • volume and page. Some surnames in­ • • • • • Friends ofArrow Rock President Day clude Abreu. AllIson. Branch. Dawson. David Sandoval. Pueblo. CO. former Kerr was recently honored on her re­ LedoUX, Romero. and St. Vrain. member oftheSFTAboard ofdirectors. tirement from that position which she Other articles and topics Indexed by has won his case against the Univer­ held since the early 1980s. She is suc­ subject and locale Include Mora and sity of Southern Colorado which dis­ ceededbyBarbaraQuinn. The Friends Taos County Marriage and Cemetery missed him for alleged violations of have also dedicated their new head­ Records. book reviews. and Census sick-leave policy. and he has been re­ quarters In the former post office Users' Guides. The index is available instated there. Congratulations buildingin Arrow Rock. This organiza­ for $14.00 postpaid from Ann L. Moss­ David. tion does great things. Annual mem­ man. 2539 Harold Place NE. Albuquer­ • • • • • .- . berships begin at $10. Send to Friends que NM 87106-2515. Roger D. Patton. national director of of Arrow Rock. Box 124. Arrow Rock Literacy Across America and a new MO 65320. member of SFTA. is planning to ride • • • • • horseback along the Trail during the An "off-ofT-Broadway" musical revue. summer of 1996. Literacy Across "Along the Santa Fe Trail." opened in America is seeking to raise $1 million Santa Fe this summer. The dinner during the next year to promote na­ theater is located in the Old Santa Fe tional literacy awareness and develop Music Hall at Alameda and Guada­ • new reading programs and support lupe. For information or reselVations. materials. call (BOOI 409-3311. • • • • • • • • • • The Autograph Rock project spon­ Riley and Betty Parker. Santa Fe. sored by the National Park Service on have sold their bookstore. Parker the ranch ofDan and Carol Sharp near Books of the West. to Andre Dumont. Boise City, OK. has been completed. owner of Dumont Maps. and the com­ Signs and trails have been installed for bined business is now Dumont Maps the convenience ofvisitors. & Books of the West. located at 301 E • • • • • Palace Ave. To receive Dumont's peri­ James J. Fisher, columnist for the odic catalog. send a request to PO Box Paul Bentrup find. alternate uae for Kansas CUy star. wrote on August I. 10250. Santa Fe NM 87504. DAR marker. (Photo by Mike Olsen.)

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RECOLLECTIONS OF JAMES FRANCIS RILE(, PART III

(This concludes Riley's reminlscences where they had been for nearly a year and hitched to a rack there our Old Bill horse offrelghting on the Santa Fe TraU and hadtaken upthelrabode in Kansas City, so that we brought from Ohio with us. He had other activities during and qfter the that was now our headquarters. Soon after been t~en the year before by the Bush­ eiva War:) Mr. James and I went down to Wilson and whackers and taken to Missouri. A short Greenwood counties and boiJght two hun­ time before this some of the Kansas BACKWITH MR JAMES FOR dred head of oxen to be used for our train, Redlegs had made a raid over In Missouri FREIGHTlNG-QUANTRELL the next spring. We brought those cattle up and had captured him with a lot of other Inthe meantime Mr. James had returned into the south part of Miami County and f stock. He had been sold ~o a man IMng to Kansas and was planning to Join the kept them through the winter by running some six miles on the road to Lawrence. At freighting business himself and 88 he had them in stock fields until towards spring once we got out the papers to replevin Old had no experience at that line himself he then feeding them on corn and fodder. Bill. The man at once conceded our right to wanted me to help him. So, I concluded to While I was looking after the cattle Mr. him. We let the man take Bill home and do so. So, I severed my connection with Mr. Jameswas looking after and contracting for keep him until called for. So 88 we passed Hombuckle's train and commenced work the wagons, yokes, chains, covers, and in by his place we took Old Bill along with us. again for Mr. James. The Bushwhackers fact everything that was necessary to fit up Hewas an old standby, being over20years and Redlegs were so numerous all along the train old and one of the first horses thai I ever the State Une that it was unsafe for anyone Duringthewinter orearly spring Mr. John wOri

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while the rear end would be 30 or 35 feet. said, ·Well, Cass, I think you are only A year or two after this fort was rebuilt and Now, if the trains following wanted to pass scared a litUe and you think you are sick.· a company ortwo ofthe soldiers kept there. on by they passed through our corral. On He said, ·No, I don't think I am scared but I As we W81'8 about to leave the river to cross thi$ occasion they passed through the don't want them Redsklns to get me and I the cut-off to Ft. Larned the stage with a Mexican train the last one. The secondtrain can't drive my team today.· I went and told small escort overtook us and the two corralled about 200 yards from us. The Mr. James about him and he sald,"Go tell Messrs. James took passage for home. Mexican train had gone about through John James to go and talk to him (he was That left me to assume all the responsibility when we all heard the terriblest screams one of John's Illinois hands). Maybe you and bring the train In. We had not heard close to the hind end of our corral and can get him out." S:O I told John. He went anything of the Indlans along there doing before we could get out to see what It was and talked to him but could not prevail on anything bad since as we weill going out the Mexican cavyard driver rushed Into the him to come out and we did not get him out by here. So, we weill having no fears but corral making all kinds of signs and trying to drive his team for several days. the night we camped on the cut-off the every way to tell us the Indians weill com­ We did not see any mOllllndians until we guard 8StW several Indians crossing the ing. got to Ft. Larned. There weill a few laying river during the night. They seemed to be around thelll but scouting parties of sol· coming from the river and going across to During the excitement some one discov­ dlers Illported plenty of Indians south and the north. The guard reported to me and I ered an arrow sticking in the thigh of his east ofthelll. We weill not allowed to pro­ took a field glass and went out to the herd horse. It had penetrated the flesh 5 or 6 ceed any farther until we could have an and watched until momlng. I could see by inches. It was not light enough for us to see' escort of soldiers. So, we had to lay up for the glass as small an object as a wolf for a very far back on the road but someone said several days. Finally two more trains came half mile aw~. I did not see any Indians they could see Indians orsomething behind by, they had with them a company of old that night but the next morning we could us so every available horse was mounted regulars so as soon as we all could get see where quite a few had crossed the road by someone and they made a dash back on ready we started on. We weill now under a half mile or so behind us. the road. They soon discovered several the orders ofthe troops. We had togo when That morning before leaving camp I had Indians making for the river. They gave the Captain said go and camp when he said about half ofourprovisions put Into another chase and we could hear horses running. camp. While our progress was slow we got wagon and the end-gates put in and the Soon we began to. hear pistol shots, I think along without any further trouble from the cover fastened down good so no one could 25 or 30 shots were fired by our boys but of Indians on ourway out. We all kepttogether see what was In there. I had begun to feel course they never got near enough for any until we got to Ft Lyon. There our escort that we might be held up and made to give ofthem to take effect They ran the Indians stopped and we weill allowed to separate up our grub. The Indians had been doing into the river and while our boys weill and go on our way as we chose to. that frequently so I thought to save some­ watching they could see them near the We crossed the river at Bents Fort about thing that way and it so happened that I was opposite side going across. While this was 35 miles above Ft. Lyon. After crossing the right. That d~ we saw quite a lot ofIndians going on we were getting our stock river we crossed over the divide on to the passing around over the prairie and befolll bunched up as close as we could and we Picketwlre River. We followed up that river we got to Ft. Larned probably a hundllld or all put on double guards around the caWe as far as Trinidad. Helll we took up a can­ more had come to the train and were fol­ and also at the corrals In fact no one slept yon and cross over the mountain at what lOWing along. One old Indian who said he very sound that night I was out with the they call the Wootten Pass. This old man was an Arapaho chief came and rode along cattle all nigtlJ. We kept all stock pretty Wootten was or had been considerable of with me for a mile or so and talked to me. close through the night so It was necessary an Indian trader and scout. He In some w~ He could talk Pllltty good English. He told to let it graze some in the morning befolll obtained a permit to build a road through me his people were all hungry that they we pulled out so we thought best to get this pass and he lived up near the summit wanted me to give them something to eat. breakfast that morning before leaVing ofthe mountain and co/leded a toll from all I told him I would camp at the Fort and thelll there. As soon as it was daylight quite a lot persons going over his road which was not I would givethem something. Hesaid, ·1 will of the boys went back on the road to see nearly so good asthe Southwest Boulevard go to my Wigwam and will come back what they could discover. In their search at Kansas City, but much better than it had again.· I told him all right, when I was they found (as I remember) 6 arrows that been in its primitive stale. It was hard work camped he could come back. I told him I had been shot at the Mexican the night totake a loaded train overthe mountain, so had a little bit of flour and meat and coffee before. One or two within a hundred yards many short curves, so many steep places and sugar and that my men would get of our corral. When it came time to yoke up to. go up and down, so many places to hungry too if I gave them very much. He one of our men was reported sick In his double teams to pull up. But after all when said, "Maybe so, you can get some at the wagon so I went to see what was the mat­ you get through you feel good because you Fort.· I said, "No, they give me nothing, they ter. I got up on the tongue ofthewagon and think you have accomplished something. let me be hungry like you." It seemed to looked in. His wagon was loaded, the bed please the old chief what I had said so he From here on to Ft Union we had good full of boxes and on top was perhaps a rode close up to me and said, "Soldiers all roads generally speaking. It Is a nice roiling dozen sacks of dried apples. He had plied mighty mean, me no like um." So he these sacks on each side and across the country and we got along very well. We reached out his hand and said, ·how." I soon got to our destination. We unloaded back and had his bed down in the middle took his hand, he gave It a shake and again the Govemment flllight at the fort and sold so he was pretty well barricaded. I said, said, "how" and then away he went. ·What is the matter Cass?" "00, I don't the Individual freight to the SuUer's Store. We W81'8 soon on our way towards home know, I just got sick last night and I don't We went on until we passed the fort <. think I can drive my team today so I thought again. nearly a mile and camped. I kept the caWe I had better stay In my wagon." 1said, "Well, . We came back the same route that we In as close to camp as I could I expected I am real sorry that you are sick. Don't you had gone out We got along very well for a to make a night drive that night but after­ think I had better get you some medicine to time on our homeward trip. When we got wards changed my notion. Very soon after take?· ·No, I think I'll be all right soon." I down to old Ft. Dodge or to where it had we corraled and the cattle out the Indians said, "Well, what have you got these sacks once been, for at that time there was noth­ began to flock In until there were perhaps . piled up thatway for?" ·Oh, I thought ifthe ing much to indicate that thelll ever had more than a hundred ofthem , mostlyyoung Indians did make an attack on us they been a fort there, a few old remnants of men. Pretty soon we saw coming towards couldn't shoot through them so easily." I buildings was all that remained at that time. the river the old Chief and about a dozen

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others, five squaws in one bunch. The old except the old Arapaho Chief and one of get his cattle nearer camp, for I saw that Chief came Inside the corral to where I was tha othar old men that came with him, they were nearly two miles away In the and said "Come". I went with him to thefront whom he said was a Chief. bluffs. He talked as though he knew his of the corral and he pointed to four old After all were gone he came up to me business and could take care of himself all Indians and said, "All chiefs, good chiefs: took my arm and led me to the back end of right. I told him all right I had done my duty Then pointing to the squaws said, Chiefs the corral and began to tell me (very confi­ and we went on. This train was known as squaws all hungry". I said to him "Too much dentially it seemed) how mean the soldiers the Crow train. The next day this train was Indians, too IiWe grub: He Indicated to me were at the fort and that the Indians were attacked by Indians while on the road just that only those five chiefs would expect going to kill those soldiers. He said,"Sol­ before they got to Walnut Creek while the anything. So, I had two of the men to open diers kill all Indians' buffalo and no give him _train was crossing an arroyo oran old creek up the mess wagon and set out on the nothing to eat The soldiers mean, mean, bed. As well as I remember the report was ground all the provisions we had in that mean.· He patted me on the shoulder and that some of his men were killed and wagon, which amounted to about three big said, "You good man, you good man.· And scalped. A good martf of his wagon sheets sides of bacon, nearly three sacks of flour, sothey shook my hand and said "how, how· were taken off and some other things that 30 or 40 pounds of sugar, 15 or 20 pounds and then got their ponies and rode off to­ were easy tocarry off. He had to unload his of coffee, a few dried apples and currants, wards their Village. That left us all alone. I freight at Fort Larned from some cal '88and also some spice. had intended to make a night drive that come back. A week or so after we got In I Now [I] took my butcher knife,one of night but was a little afraid to. So, I had the saw them going through Lawrence. I talked which all hands were supplied. I divided the cattle kept out on the grass until it began to with some of the men and also saw one of bacon into six equal parts. The squaws by get dusk, then they were brought Inclose the men that was scalped. He had his head this time had spread their blankets out to camp and herded close that night. all tied up but was getting along very well. around in a circle. Now, I laid one part to That evening I went to the fort for mall Well, to go back to where I left the river one side and told the old Chief, that could and some ammunition for the boys. While we pushed on as fast as we could travel talk, that was for me, to tell the others to there I told the storekeeper thatthelndlans only stopping long enough at a time for our take care of theirs, one pile for each one. were swearing vengeance against them. cattle to eat theirfill of grass and rest a little. He said something tothem and each squaw He said, that was nothing they are always We could hear nothing more about the took her pile. Then I divided the flour into doing that Very early the next morning we Indians so finally I began to think thai we six equal parts, set my part back and mo­ were on the road. We traveled nearly all day were out of all danger. We had gotten In to tioned to the squaws to take theirs, each and a part of the night before we felt that one of the Turkey creeks near where the one piled hershare on herown blanket. The we were anything but safe. We were now city ofMcPherson Is now. At that time there old Chiefs sat on a wagon tongue and about where the city of Great Bend is now was a stage stationthere. There were three looked on. Now came the coffee. I asked and near where the Indians shot at the men there, they had eleven or twelve head where to put their share. They began to Mexican as we were going out. I had of horses and 150 or 200 head of cattle. jabber among themselves, finally each one thought of laying here until evening and rest The cattle were two or three miles north of spread down a handkerchief or some kind up the cattle a little for I had rushed them the station, near what they called the of a wrap to put it on. The next was the so hard since leaving Ft Larned and be­ Marsh, a place where there was always sugar. By this time one could begin to see sides that I had several steers that were water and grass If there was any on the the smiles come to the faces of those old sick with fever. Three steers died here at road anywhere. We had gotten there In the squaws. Well, now something more would this camp making in all nine or ten head that evening and took a good all night's rest. I have to be provided to hold the sugar. So had died in the last few days. had corralled about 200 yards from the each one emptied her coffee to one comer Shortly after breakfast thai morning I had stockade or picket corrai that joined up to of her blanket and tied it up with some kind just come to camp from looking after some the stage station. My man that drove the of a Whang. Where they got it I do not know sick steers, we discovered some one on the loose cattle or cavyard had lett a lame steer but they all looked asthough they had been road coming from the west riding at a full the evening before, back on the road about used for the same purpose. I divided the lope which indicated to us that he was In a mile and a half. sugar and piled it where the coffee had more than an ordinary hurry. As he came been. Now came the dried fruit. I showed it I had given orders to the herders to drive nearer we could see thai he was a soldier. to the old Arapaho chief and told him that in the cattle at the first peep of day so they So I and two or three of the boys went out the squaws could take it anddivide it at their were In very early. I saddied my riding mare to the road and as he came up we hailed wigwam. He talked to them a little and then and told the boys I would go back and see him to learn the news. He said last night the about the steer that had been left on the said, "yes." So, I gave it all tothem. We had Indians attacked the Fort, killed all the pick­ all gotten tired of it any way so did not care road. When I got nearly to the steer I dis­ etS, ran off all of their horses except two or for any part of it. covered something on the road coming three that were kept inside the stockade, towards me. It was not yet light enough for In dividing up this grub I was careful to that he was on his way to Fort Riley for me to tell for sure what it was, but I was show them that I gave them afull share with relief, and advised us to make all speed we expecting the stage along anytime and that myself and so by the time I was through I could for a few days at least. Of course this they would have an escort with them. I could see that the old fellows were well created some anxiety on our part for we thought it was a bunch of soldiers. How­ pleased. Now, the squaws had their ponies were yet In the very heart of the Indian ever, I had stopped and was sitting on my brought in the corral by some Indian boys country and no chance to get artf help from horse watching them. At last I was satisfied that had been lying under a wagon near by. any source near at hand, so the only thing they were Indians. When they got within They packed their stuff on the ponies to do was to make all the haste that we about a half-mile of me they left the road climbed on and away they went. I learned could to get out of reach of the Redsklns as turning to the north. I sat there on my horse that there was a large village on the river soon as possible. So, we did not tarry long trying to think out what they were going to about four miles off. After the squaws were there, so we drove on until we came to do, the course they were going. I thought gone the old Chief made a little talk to the where the trail leaves the river. perhaps they were on their way to a white Indians that were hanging around, perhaps Here we met a train or rather came to settlement that I had heard of north ofthere 50 or more, mostly young boys. Soon they where it was corralled. I told the boss what on the Cottonwood River. After watching began to mount their ponies and In ten or I had heard and advised him to be on the some little time I said to myself I will go and fifteen minutes there was not an Indian left lookout for Indians and that he had better make that steer get up till I can see how

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lame he was and if much lame I would have of the ranch I decided to pull my wagons about anyofthem. From here I took my time the ranchman to go out and get him and back and make a half moon corral against and endeavored to recruit up my cattle. For keep him until we retumed the next trip. the side of his stockade so we did so, and the last ten d~s or thereabout it had been When I gottothesteerthe Indianswere stili put our cattle Inside, closed up the endsand very hard on them for we had been driving going north. awaited results. After waiting half the fore­ hard and herding close so they began to I made the steer get up but he was very noon I began to get uneasy, I did not want show It. to be staying here if there were no Indians lame. The conqition of the steer took my TO COUNQL GROVE ON-Vi coming. Finally, I said, "How many of you mind off the Indians for a few seconds. I THE JAMESES TO FT. UNON looked up and SS!N that three of them had boys will go back on the road with me until left the others and were on the dead rum we can see if there are any Indians com­ We landed at Lawrence about the middle towards the road to cut me off from my Ing?" It seemed that all of them wanted to of August. Mr. James' family were now camp. In an instant I was on the dead run go. So, the first one to get the horses got to living here so this was now headquarters. up the road and if ever Queen flew it was go. We rode back two or three miles but did We placed our cattle south ofthe Wakarusa than. I had two good spurs to induce speed not see an Indian or any signs ofany except where we had plenty of good grass and with and I had two good revolvers to defend the ones that gave me my chase that morn­ water. And In a short time they were all myself with if it came to a showdown. I had ing. So, we retumed to camp and made doing well. We had lost several steers on somewhat the advantage of them. I had a ready for the next move. The men at the -the trip which must now be replaced. From good road to run on while they had the station did not want to be left alone there, some cause we could not getfreight to load prairie and then they would have a little so we loaded all of their stuff into our wag­ forthefall trip until about the last ofOctober. farther to run than I would to make the point ons. They brought in their cattle and that This meant a late trip. We went up to leav­ where their angle would strike the road. evening we moved on. We made a drive enworth the last of September and after Most of those things I took in at a glance. that night before we camped. waiting there sometime we finally got our loads and returned to Lawrence. While But the main thing was to outrun them to The next morning we had breakfast be­ here I decided that I would not make that that place which very fortunately I did. I had fore we broke camp. 0 ur next drive brought my pistols in hand and all ready to shoot late a trip so I told the James' that I would us to the next ranch on one of the Turkey take the train out as far as Council Grove when I thought I had the last chance. When Creeks of which there were three, called and then they could take It on through and I passed the point where they would strike Big Turkey, Running Turkey, and Dry Tur­ the road I don't think they were 200 yards I would come back as I had some business key. I have forgotten the order In which they to attend to that fall and if I should go on away. As soon as they saw that they could came. At this ranch we found a small outfit with them I could not get back In time so I not cut me off they slackened their speed of four wagons that were camped near the but I went on as fast_ as Queen could carry preVailed on them to let me off. I assisted ranch when that same band of Indians ran them out as far as Council Grove and then me until I knew I was safe then I slowed up onto them and captured all of their horses I returned to Lawrence. Tom and John some. We had run over a half mile before and mules, also those that belonged to the they gave up the chase. James and Julian SCcXt (who had added ranch, over twenty head In all and left them some teams to our train) went on through. there helpless. Of course, they wanted to The station and my corral were inthe little They were detained on the road quite a help so we hitched their wagons on behind valley along the creek so thatthey could not good deal on account ofescorts. They were see any distance back on the road, so that ours and loaded the plunder that belonged not allowed to travel without one and their to the ranch In our wagons and brought none of them knew anything of my chase progresswas slow. Theytook theCimarron until I got in. As I passed the station I told them all along. The Indians after getting route and when they got onto the Rabbit their stock kept on east. the men to get their stock in their corral as Ear Creek they were caught In a big snow soon as possible that Indianswere just over Between there and the next station at storm and were detained several days. Had the ridge there and in a few minutes would Cottonwood Holes the Indians killed a to cut down brush for their cattle to browse be on them. They just tumed their horses young man whom they met on the road. We on. From there to Ft. Union they had more out at the back end of their corral. Two men did not see him but were told so at Cotton­ or less snow. They got through about the ran for the horses, the other took his field wood Holes when we got there. At this middle ofNovember. They started the men glasses and climbed upon the houseto see place there was an outfit of six wagons back as soon as possible with the mule what he could see. He had hardly got his corraled near the station. They were com­ team. Mr. James tumed the cattle over to glass up until eleven Indians dashed over ing In to the States empty. The boss was at the Moody boys to keep through the winter the ridge and made a run for the horses. the station, one man was asleep under a out there somewhere. As soon as his ar­ The two men had caught a horse a piece wagon, another In a wagon, the others rangements were all made he and John and were trying to get to the corral. One belonging to this outfit were off some dis­ took the stage for home where they arrived man let his go and ran for life, the other held tance with their cattle. The Indians rode into on Christmas eve. Thehands arrived a l!tUe on to his until an Indian gave him-a prod on their camp shot the man under wagon. The later, they had had a very hard trip. the arm with a spear which went through shot awoke the man In the wagon, he made I stayed part of that winter at Lawrence his clothes and grazed his arm enough to considerable racket In his wagon sothatthe with Mr. James and a part with my stepfa­ draw blood. Of course he ran for dear life Indianstook fright and rode off. They drove ther and my mother in Johnson County. then. But the Indians circled around the off the horses belonging at the station. They lived on what was then known as the horses, took them a little w~s up on the From here the Indians left the road and Sucket place, now a part of Dr.G. T. prairie, caught them, changed most of their went to the northwest. That is the last we Goode's farm near Lenexa on Indian saddles on the new horses, and took heard ofthem. A very few days after this we Creek. around us, came back Into the road and heard of four men being killed by Indians in During the latter part of that winter Mr. went east. All this time my men were getting the west part of Uncoln county, which m~ James sold his train to some parties In ready for battle in case of an attack. We have been the same band on their w~ Mexico so we were clear out of a job. Of were not expecting any trouble from those back home. This outfit came on in with us. course, he sold my team with them. eleven Indians but wethought we could see When we got Into the Cottonwood at considerable dust on the road to the west what I think was called Moore's Ranch, we MULES TEAM TRAIN TO FT. of us, so we thought perhaps there were unloaded all that we had picked up on the UNION, NEW MEXICO more coming. road and left them there. As they were now Not long after that he decided to fit up So, after a little consultation with the boss out of danger, so that was the last I knew mule team train. I also agreed to put In one

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team and help to run the outfit. So, we had John Wilkes Booth." He said also that an fastened around onafrort and one hind leg to get busy. About the first thing to do was attempt had been made to kill Seward, just above the hoof. If hobbled In this way to procure wagons. We decided to fit out a Secretary of State. I attended to my busi­ they cannot run and be stampeded. train of five mules to each wagon. The ness and was soon on my way to law­ On the 16th we are at Cow Creek. All wagons to carry forty hundred pounds. The rence. That day was a long lonesome day reports are thatthere are no Indians on the usual mule train had from slxto eight mules to me. My mind was vel)' busy going back road this spring. It Is said that they are aU to each wagon carrying from forty to fifty over the past, thinking ofthe dangers, hard­ south ofthe river and as it Is vel)' high they . hundred. The driver would ride the near ships, and privations that we all had had to will not cross It so we are pushing on 88fast wheel mule. These were strung out two endure, and now to know that our President 88 we can. By referring to letters sent abreast. Ours were hitched two on the had been assassinated just at the time we home, I find that we arrived at Pawnee tongue and three in abreast in the lead. Our were all rejoicing overthe splendid victories Rock nearFt. Lamed on the 19th where we I' driver sat on a high seat on front of the that had been won by the Union armies In were detained until the 23rd. WhIle wewere wagon box and drove with four lines, the the lastfew days. It was a heavy stroke and being detained here we could hear aU kinds lead lines had an extra check. The former to me It seemed like a vel)' Critical time for of reports about the Indians and their dep­ driver used what they called a jerk or single such a thing to happen. That evening I redations. It would seem 88 though they line. They used a black snake whip and arrived In Lawrence. Everything seemed to had become very active all at once, for up would often have to jump off and run for­ be In mourning. I thought evel)'boCly looked to this time we had seen vel)' few Indians ward to whip their lead mules, while our as though they had lost their best friend, anywhere on the road and they were vel)' . drivers could use a stage whip oflong stock andIn a general senSe they had. (President . friendly. No trains were allowed to pass and lash and always be in reach of their Uncoln was assassinated April 14, 1865.) here until such time as the Commander of leaders from their seat. We hauled the Now, to return to our train. the post here saw fit to furnish an escort. I same loads with five mules that they did the We left Leavenworth May 1st, arrived at find by referring to a letter written home old way with six. As soon as the preliminary from here I said, "Since arriving atthis place arrangements were made we began to buy Lawrence on the 2nd. When I arrived there I received a letterfrom home saying that my we have heard of a great many things that up our mules. We found it a pretty hard job Indlans have done on the road this spring. to find mules that we could buy such as we stepfather was dead, that he died on the 28th ofApril. We were detained here a few Perhaps you may have heard of them. wanted. There were plenty ofpoor mules In days so I took advantage of this delay to Now, I don't believe the half of them. I will the countl)' such as contraband or con­ tell you what has been done on the road as demned mules that the Government had see my mother and to console her as best I could. I could stay only a short time and near as I can find out from the authorities discarded and sold over the country, butwe here at the Fort. About six days ago there wanted good mules. We finally got what we left her and the family In deep sorrow but withthe assurance of herfriendsand neigh­ was a train coming In. There were some wanted for our twenty wagons. There was discharged soldiers coming to the States a man from Leavenworth (I can't call his bors that her welfare would be looked after while I was gone. When I returned to law­ with it. One ofthem left the train when about name) that added six wagons to our train fifteen miles from here to come on alone. making it full. We had a splendid outfit. rence evel)'thlng was ready and the next morning we rolled out. He was killed on the road and robbed of Received our wagons and freight at leav­ about two thousand dollars. It Is thought enworth loaded mostly with Government We left Lawrence about the 6th I think. I find by referring to old letters that on the that someone followed him and killed him supplies for Ft Union, New Mexico. We had for his money. yesterday there were two 1Oth we were caught in a snow storm ai1d I think four wagons loaded with individual soldiers out hunting horses from here, they freight for a man from Leavenworth by the had to lay over a day on Soldier Creek. We had some very bad roads on this trip. There were pursued by Indians, one was over­ name of White, if I remember correctly. I taken and killed, the other made his were several timesthat we had to lay up on escape forgot to note the fact that we bought our unhurt. There were four mulesteams came flour for this trip in Kansas City ofthe Gate account of bad weather and bad roads. I find that on the 11 th we made only nine to this post with us. They unloaded and City Milling Company which stood between started back for home yesterday morning. miles. We have met several trains coming 8th and. 9th Street on the west side of They made a ten mile drive and camped for Delaware, Kansas City, Missouri. I took a in and they reported that there were no Indians on the road so we began to think dinner. They turned their mules outto graze team and went down after it. I got my load (16 in number) and while they were at (2500 pounds) and left the city April 14th. I that we would get along fine this time. I had also received a letter from brother Charles, dinner the Indians slipped around their drove out to the old neighborhood on Indian mules and run them off. They (the Indians) who was then near Trinidad, Colorado. He Creek and stayed all night with my mother. did not molest the men" My stepfather was in vel)' poor health at said It was reported that the Indians were that time, yet he seemed to think he would vel)' quiet this spring. One day while laying here we had a very soon be better. He was vel)' much pleased We passed through Council Grove on severe storm. When it began to threaten I over the news that Lee had surrendered a the 12th and arrived at Cottonwood on the was at the Fort. I jumped on my horse and few days before. He was a vel)' strong 13th. We have been able to make better lit out for camp. We had scarcely time to get Union man, though an old line Democrat. time on the road than most others for we the mules In the corral before it com­ have passed 65 or 70 wagons In the last menced, mostly wind at first It tore off On the morning of the 15th I bade them two days. We have the finest outfit on the nearly half of our wagon covers. The wind all goodbye for I expected to be gone a trail and we are now nearing the Indian slackened a little and we got most of the good part oftlle sum mer. I drove bythe way countI)'we will have to be vel)' cautious and covers on again before It began to hail. It of Olathe as I had some business at the watch as well as pray for at a time when kept it up a few minutes and then turned to Recorder's Office. As I drove in to town I you think you are safe then Is the time when rain which continued for a half hour vel)' noticed that the big flag was floating at half the Indians are most likely to attack you. hard. On the morning of the 23rd we took mast I tied my team and went into the We kept out a strong guard with our mules up our line of march. There were one hun­ courthouse and I said to Hervy Taylor, aU the time and at night we put side hobbles dred and nineteen wagons besides the "What does that mean, that flag at half on each one so they could not be stam­ army wagons and about four hundred sol­ masO" He said "Have you not heard that peded. Perhaps you do not know what a diers, all cavalrymen with their horses and· President Uncoln was assassinated last side hobble Is. It Is a short chain 16 or 18 mules. It made a train about two and one­ night. "I said, "No, that can't be true, surely." Inches long with a round ring In each end half miles long when strung out it was a He said, "Yes, that is true, he was shot by which Is fastened to a stout strap which Is beautifull sight. We travelled two days and

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camped near an old ford on the river. I have dent Foster, Senator Doolittle and Major snow capped mountains It sends a beauti­ forgotten the name. It Is about 16 or 18 General McCook. It was saidthatthey were ful halo across the Valley which Is very miles east ofold Fort Dodge. Here we were on a peace mission with the Indians. They refreshing and stimulating to behold. It is detained another day waiting for another were on their way to New Mexico. Said that ifyou should want to start a grave­ escort. The soldiers that were here with us On the 10th of June, we arrived at Fort yard here you would have to kill some one would crossthe river here and go south. We Lyon. Here our escort stopped and we were to make the start. I further expressed a were all subject to order from the Com­ allowed to go on as we had the best surprise that they didn't all die off from mander. The next day he gave us a permit anq outfit we soon took the lead. The roads chronic laziness. I don't think I ever beheld to move on to Fort Dodge and there remain were much better now and we could make such laziness In any people as I did out until our escort came up. We did so but better time. On the 12th we got to Bent's there among the Mexicans. It Is true thet fortunately 10r us our escort came the next Fort. Here we crossed the river, we were a nearly all of the laboring men there were day. good three days In the crossing. We had to Mexican Peons and of course they only did It has seemed strange this spring that unload all of our goods that would damage what they had to do. there is no game on the road. We have not by water and ferry them over In a small One day while laying there some of the seen a buffalo on our side of the river and boat. It was a tedious job and very hard boys went fishing and caught a nice lot 01 not more that two orthree on the south side. work. While here our mules stampeded. It mountain trout. The streams here seem to The river is high, and that may keep them took me and several others nearly a day to abound with trout The same day I went back. While game is scarce, we did not get them gathered up again. Some 60head about six miles down the Mora River to need to go hungry. I see by an old letterthat were found about 15 miles from camp. where there is a ranch run by a white man, we had plenty to eat considering that it They went until they came to Purgatoire his wife who was a white woman, made and consisted of wheat and corn bread, coffee River. It was high they did not cross. butter to sell. I bought two pounds and paid and tea, both sassafras and younghyson, We soon left the Arkansas River and her seventy-five cents per pounds. I also ham and shoulders, beans and hominy, crossed over to the Purgatoire or Pick­ bought a dozen eggs for fi1ty cents. She sugar, molasses, crackers, dried and etwire River thence up that river. On the gave me a canteen ofbuttermilk which was canned fruits, canned com, oysters and 21st we got to Gray's Ranch, a few miles a great treat to me. I see by one of those pickles, and. all the little spices and season­ from Trinidad. Here I found my brother old letters that I told my folks how near I ings. that are needful. Charles. He was very much discouraged. came to being shot while here in camp. I On June 3rd we were at the old Aubery He had rented a part ofthe Gray Ranch and had 24 bullet holes through my coat, two crossing. It is about 85 miles below Fo~ was farming, he had put in 45 acres of com through my necktie and several others Lyon. We had hoped to be able to cross the and it was doing fine. It was 15 or 20 Inches through my other clothes. I also see ap­ river at this place but it i~ so high that we high when the grasshoppers lit down in the pended to this same letter that I did not could not. We have been hunting for a valley and ·ate up the crops so thoroughly have any of this clothing on when the bul­ crossing at every place that looked any­ that Charley said he could not make lets passed through them. They were In a ways favorable. Since we left Ft. Dodge we enough to pay his board. I told him this satchel In my wagon when Mr. James have found the river too high, so we keep would be a good time to leave that country pushed a shotgun in at the hind end ofthe on going. We have had bad roads for and go back home. I advised him to go wagon. By some means it was discharged several. days which made our progress home and live with mother and before we and most of the charge went through my t~re slow. One of the trains traveling with us Is left he concluded he would do so. He satchel. I have got a little keepsake that was a Mexican train. They could not speak got busy and sold out his crops for what he in that satchel. It still carries a mark of that much English, the boss could talk a little. could get and by the time we came back by Incident. Belonging to his train was a high toned Jew there he was ready to come home. While there waiting to have some repairing done On the 7th day ofJuly in the evening we who was going to Santa Fe to engage in made our first drive on our retum trip. We some business and he was 8nxious to to our wagons Charley and I went down the river a few miles to visit a good friend ofhis, had been camped six miles south of the learned the Mexican language, so he Fort, our first drive took us six miles north though it would be best for him to go out a Mr. and Mrs. Nelson. Charley had made his home with these people for over a year. of the Fort. We had hoped that we could with a Mexican train so he could be learning return by the Cimarron Route but we their language. He had a good horse to ride They had us to stay for dinner. It was the first time I had sat down to a table since I leamed that the Arkansas River was still and put on a good deal of style. The old high so we decided to retum by the Raton boss did not like to see that very well. One left home and we had the best dinner I had sat down to on the trip. Mrs. Nelson gave Route, the same way we came. Mr. James evening we were in the lead. We made our left me in charge of the train. He took the corral straddling the road so the others had me a fine beaver skin which I took home with me and had a pair of fine gauntlet stage and retumed home to Lawrence. The to go through our corral. The Jew was gloves made of it which I enjoyed forsev- war was now practically over. Everyone ahead of their train, he rode into our corral eral winters. . was casting about to see what was to be and stopped at the front end and sat there done next, and he was very anxious to on his horse and was talking to one of our We left Gray's Ranc_h about the 24th and procure another train load of freight or sell rnen when the lead team of the Mexican arrived at Fort Union the 2nd day of July. the outfit to someone that already had con­ train came up they could not go through for We were detained here some time. We tents for fall delivery. I proceeded leisurely the Jew. The old boss wasa little waysback spent the 4th of July here. The crops were through the rough country in order to recruit but he saw the trouble and he yelled out almost a failure here this year and times the mules as much as possible on my way were very dull. So, the man that had the "Hey there you Christ killer, you get out of home. We had had a great deal of bad , the road, hain't you got any sense, no won­ extra freight had hard work to dispose of it. weather on our outward trip and that meant deryou killed the Christ, you got no sense." So that was partly the cause of our delay bad roads, and bad roads meant a hard trip The Jew never said a word but moved on. here. for our teams. Never before in my experi­ From then on our boys called him the Christ In referring to a letterI wrote home on the ence on the plains did we have to lay up on killer. 5th of July, that we had a big dinner on the account of rainy weather. On this trip out A couple of days before we got to Ft. 4th, and how well we all enjoyed ourselves, we had to lay up several times on account Lyon there passed us an escort of several and how beautiful the sunsets are. The ofrains. When I gotto Gray's Ranch I found companies of the 16th Kansas Cavalry. mountains west of us are covered with my brother all ready to return home with They were escorting the acting Vice-Presl- snow and as the sun sinks down over the me. I spent one day here having some of

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the brakes on the wagons repaired. It Is nature for us to take up that calling for a CAdiz. Spain. In 1812. reported that the Indians are on the trail but livelihood and so on the 17th day of Sep­ . -Marie L. Gardner are not very bad, so we traveled on slowly tember, 1865, we were married at the ••• • • until we arrived at Fl Lyon. Here wefound American House In the City of Olathe, several small outfits waiting for more com­ Johnson CountyI Kansa9 by Judge Blodg­ James Josiah Webb. Adventures in the pany or an escort to accompany them. The ett ofthe Probate Court ofsaid County. The Santa Fe Trade 1844- 1847. edited by . next day after we arrived at the Fort they name ofthis firm since the above date and Ralph P. Bieber. New Introduction by give us a permit to go on that the mall coach has been and still is by the Grace of God, Mark L. Gardner. Reprint. Lincoln: would be due the next day and they would James F. Riley and Elizabeth Lueretia Wil­ University of Nebraska Press. 1995. send an escort with it and If the Indians liams Riley. Pp. 301. llIustrations. map. Paper. were on the road anywhere between here $12.00. Avallable from Last Chance and Fort Dodge they would stay with us. Store.

They did not overtake us until we were M ••• (W]e saw two men coming from about halfway to Fort Dodge and they only the prairie who from a distance ap­ camped with us one night and then left us. peared like traders. ... (T]hey proved We were not in the least afraid of Indians. to be Mr. Albert Speyerwith a seIVant. We could muster nearly a hundred men and CONVERSE OF THE Mr. Spe~rInformed us ..• thathe had we were well arm ad and several inthe outfit encountered a very severe storm of were old timers on the plains and were well PRAIRIES sleet and rain on the Cimarron not far up to the Indian's trick and besides that we from Willow Bar. and had lost a good NOTICES~- had not seen an Indian since we left Trini­ -BOOK many mules •..M (pp. 106-107). This dad, and further than that we did not like to Don Pedro Baptista Plno. The Exposi­ encounter was but one of many re­ travel under an escort, it suited us better to tion on the Province of New Mexico. markable adventures Webb Included be our own boss. We met several trains and 1812. translated and edited byAdrian In his memoirs. written more than they all reported that there was no trouble Bustamante and Marc Simmons. in­ forty years after his first three round­ on the road. The war was now over and a troduction by Eduardo Garrigues. trips over the Santa Fe Trail. He spent great many people were at sea, or in other Santa Fe and Albuquerque: EI Rancho seventeen ~ars as a Santa Fe trader words were at a loss to know what to do. It de las Golondrlnas and the University and accumulated extensive records was thought by a great many that in mus­ of New Mexico Press. 1995. pp. Ill. and correspondence. but these mem­ tering out of service such a great number Cloth. $25.00; paper, $12.00. Boxed oirs covered only the first three years. of soldiers that the country would become Umlted edition of200copies. signed by However they cover some of the most demoralized to suchan extent that it would the editors. $50.00. Paper and boxed exciting and turbulent years In the take a long time for the business of the editions available from the museum history ofthe Southwest and the TraIl. country to adjust itself. In that thought ail shop at EI Rancho de las Golondrlnas. adding Immeasurably to the literature were mistaken for it seemed that before Santa Fe. Cloth edition available from of the period. one could realize the fact everyone had University of New Mexico Press. 1720 Originally published In 1931 as the returned home and settled down In their Lomas Blvd NE. Albuquerque NM firstvolumeInArthur H. Clark's South­ little groove, so that no one could tell what 87131-1591. Add $3.00 for shipping. west Historical Series. Webb's narra­ had become of that vast army of a few This slimvolume providesa fascinat­ tive is again In print. thanks to the months ago. As for me I had been very efforts of Gardner who Is well ac­ anxious to make a change in my way of Ing gUm pse of Ufe In Spanish Colonial New Mexico less than ten years before qUainted with this period as demon­ living for some time and now as peace had strated In his Brothers on the Santa Fe been declared I began to think the time had Mexican Independence and the open­ Ing of the Santa Fe TraJ1. Plno was a and Ch.lh.uahua Trails (1993). The come for me to begin to adjust my affairs to Glasgow brothers appeared amid the that end. These things occupied my mind a prominent New Mexican who wrote from firsthand obselVation. Included dozens of famous and lesser-known good part of the time. And Charley was people encountered by Webb. going home with me and would live with In his ExposUlon are notes on New mother and look out for her welfare. When Mexlco's government and ml1ltary. ag­ Webb's engpgtng portrayal of TraIl we got in Fort Larned we concluded to cut ricultural products. natural resourc­ life. buffalo hunts. Indian raids. bliz­ loose from the compact and every one es. and the people. There are valuable zards (one return trip was dUring the travel to suit themselves as some were ox comments on the various Indians of winter). deaUngwith Mexican customs teams and some were muleteams it did not the province. An example ofthe reveal­ officers. smuggling and merchandis­ take long for us to become scattered and Ing and. at times. surprising state­ Ing techniques. and the Mexican War as I had the best outfit in the lot it was no ments Is Plno's reference to the prac­ make absorbingreading. Like Speyer's hardship for me to take the lead. We got tice bysome Indian women performing wagons. Webb's train preceded along fine, made good time and arrived at abortions through the use ofherbs. Kearny's troops to Santa Fe In 1846, Lawrence about the 14th or 15th ofAugust. This work wl1I be of Interest to stu­ and he traveled with Speyer's caravan This virtually ends my experiences on the dents oftheSanta Fe Trail because the to Chihuahua seeking more advanta­ plains. I had gone through a great many New Mexico described by Plno Is simi­ geous trading opportunities. The flee­ hardships and dangers that are not men­ lar to what William Becknell and other Ing Governor Manuel Armljo's entou­ tioned in these notes. Anglo-American traders encountered rage also traveled with Spe~r. Webb when theyarrived In 1821 and after. It and others were detained for more Mr. James soon sold our outfit and that Is also Informative to compare Plno's than a month as prisoners. Later. Webb anxiously awaited the outcome set me·free. I soon had my plans laid for the ExposUlon with Zebulon Plke's obser­ future. Of course, I was planning to enter vations on New Mexico made dUring of the Battle of Sacramento atop the mint building In Chihuahua. into a partnership with another party, whom his 1806 visit. I had been acquainted with for some time Serious scholars will be pleased that This. reprint makes It possible for and with whom I had agreed that farming this edition of Plno's work Includes a those who have been unable to locate was a good business and as we both had facsimile reprint of the Spanish-lan­ a copy of the origtnal edition to add It been raised on a farm It seemed second guage edition orlgtnally published In to their personal library and to read

August 1995 27

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 27 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

this excellent account of traveUng the trade route. Blakeslee also treats the Grove 14th Sept 1828." Trail. Anyone Interested In the Santa unsuccessful Fabryexpeditlon sent to­ Iwishto letyou know that weeareall well Fe trade will enjoy this book and finish wardSanta Fe In 1741 (which Included Mr. MClure & Thomas has had a small tuch with a clearerunderstandingofthe Ins the Mallet brothers). the later careers ofthe Chile & feaver but not veary bad the and outs of the business prior to and ofthe brothers (so far as can be deter­ are stili at a loss to know what to do with during the Mexican War. An Index mined). and Pierre Mallet's trip to their stockThreedays agotherewas3 men would have been a helpful addition. Santa Fe In 1750 which found the came from Sftee the left the CampY. About -Bonita M. Oliva French traders unwelcome and led to 300 miles back The left stree about 3 days • • •• • their arrest and Imprisonment In Mex­ afterourbov.s gotthereTherewas115men Ico City. In the campY with about 114 Head of Stock Donald J. Blakeslee. Along Ancient •••• • before the got to the Simerone Spring The Tmlls: The Mallet Expedition of 1739. Indians at different times had taken about Niwot: University Press of Colorado. Cotton Mather and George F. Thomp­ son. Registered Places oj New Mexico: 700 headfrom them - But what is stll WOl8 1995. Pp. xviii + 240. Maps. Ulustra­ one Or two days after Danlal Munroe & tlons, notes, appendices. bibliography. The LandojEndlantment. Mesilla: New t Mexico Geographical Society. 1995. Rob MCNess went a head In the Evening and Index. Cloth. $39.95. Available In to look for a good Incamplng ground they October. Pp. xvi + 95. Map. illus.• Index. Cloth. d $19.95. Available from University of had stopd turen out ther Muels & lay down Blakeslee. professor ofanthropology New Mexico Press. 1720 Lomas Blvd to Sleep the Indians came and klld them at Wichita State University. presented NE. Albuquerque NM 87131-1591. boath I expect when the compY. All comes portions of this new evaluation of the Add $3.00 for shipping. In wee will reclve some letters from The Mallet Expedition at the Santa Fe sym­ boys the menthat com In Saythe had seen posium In 1989 and man article In WI' This gUidebook provides brief the Whitmore Hardeman & our boys and (Feb. & May 1991). The book. a com­ glimpses of 31 places regtstered with that the Intended to go Lower down those bination of Impressive research and the New Mexico Geographical Society. that sold out at At Sttee got but 20 pr cent detailed scholarship. provides the The selections are all slgnlflcant and on cost - a bad prospect your Moathe background for the expedition. details worthy of a visit by anyone Interested about 5 weeks ago started in a keel Boat of the trip. and an assessment of Its In the rich heritage ofNew Mexico. The for Jefferson She had 3 days ofthe Chils & slgnlflcance. Most Important is the at­ photographs are good. Unfortunately. ffNer and that day she had a veray severe tempt to unravel the route across the however. the research and writing chil & feave Layt That night at Doctor Plains from the Missouri Valley to leave much to be desired. This volume nashes the nex day got to Jefferson She Santa Fe. following well-established is no credit to the publisher. was there abot 3 week Iwent down & brat Indian trails. The first place described Is the Santa Her & Leona home In a dearborn - there Although much educated specula­ Fe Trail. but there is no recognition of Is a man came to me a few day ago his tion is reqUired to posit the route pos" any route except that through Raton name is Moss he says you know him he slbly followed by the Mallet brothers Pass which Becknell is mistakenly re­ wantsto rent your Farm I do not know what and their seven companions. due to ported to have used on his first two sort of a tenant he would Make. Tel Re­ the paucity of solid documentary evi­ trips to New Mexico. The authors in­ becawee have not forgoten Her Ithink Ican dence, Blakeslee provides convincing correctly state that Franklin. MO. was stili see her tracks around the garden or­ explanations for the path he carefully on the west hankofthe Missouri River. chard & Milk house & over In the little [1] maps (over 30 maps are Included). and they ridicule claims that Santa Fe Next wdnesday his moathe Is going to a This route differs from those offered by Trail remains may be seen at Fort Un­ weaver with her carpet Dancos is no bitter Ion. stating that those ruts are barely other scholars. IfBlakeslee is correct. & I have my doubts Ifever shewill- nancy the westbound expedition touched on visible. Perhaps. like many tourists. grumbles veary much that Rebeca des not they do not know how to Identify Trail what became the Santa Fe Trail at write to her several points. The return trip was remnants. I have nothing more worth if I reclve a along the Canadian and Arkansas riv­ Not all sections are so poorly done. letter from the boys I will soon write again ers to Arkansas Post and then to New although the treatmentofFortSumner BelifNe meto beyourAffectonate Father Orleans. and Billythe Kid Isslmplyawful. Some of the suggested readings given with Gee. Knox A few minor errors related to the several topics are not relevant. For Santa Fe Trail deserve attention. A example. the suggested readingfor the CAMP TALES quotation from Josiah Gregg (p. 125) Salinas Monuments Is Willa Cather's about the first wagons taken to New Death Comes jar the Archbishop. One -CHAPTER REPORTSs-­ Mexico did not refer to Becknell as wonders If the authors ever heard of Cimarron Cutoff Blakeslee assumes (Gregg was In er­ Charles Lummls. There are better ror). It Is no longer safe to assume. President Helen C. Brown guidebooks to all the historic places In POBox 1400 either. that Becknell ever traveled to New Mexico. for which readers maybe Elkhart, KS 67950 r" Santa Fe over Raton Pass (p. 175). for thankful. there is more evidence that he did not (316) 697-4597 than that he did. What Blakeslee la­ Members and guests met In the Ek­ bels the "Overland Branch"ofthe Trail COUNCIL TROVE lund Hotel. Clayton. NM. on 22 July. 1995. for dinner. Informal discussions is also questionable. -DOCUMENTS~= This nit-picking does not detract centered on the 1997 symposium from the overall value of this semInal The text of the letter from George which will be held along the Cimarron study. In addition to layingout a plau­ Knox to Parker Knox. quoted In Harry Route. Severalvisitors were told about sible route along Indian trails. M~rs's article (pp. 1-2). follows In Its the Trail. SFTA. and the chapter. Blakeslee shows that the Mallet party entirety. with permission of the Mis­ Following the meal. members recon­ was welcome In Santa Fe where they souri Historical Society. St. Louis. vened at the Hersteln Memorial Mu­ resided for nine months. New Mexican Spellingand punctuation are as In the seum. Sue Richardson presided. A let­ offiCials hoped they would develop a original. The letter was dated "Collen ter from Marc Simmons to President

28 August 1995

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Brown regardingthe recentburglaryof showing the Canadian River-Texas Grove. An interpretive sign had earlier his home was read. He stated he would Panhandle trails (Greflg-Marcy, Fort been placed at the Old Stone Barn, 1 give the openingaddress at Boise City Dodge-Tascosa, Fort Bascom-Tas­ mlle east of Council Grove. Members for the 1997 Symposium but would be cosa, Mora-Canadian) as integral were encouraged to attend the Kansas unable to gtve the closing speech. parts of the greater Santa Fe Trail Archeological Association dig in Osage There was a discussion of the 175th system. Theyare lookingfor maps and Countysponsoredbythe Kansas State anniversaryofthe Trail in 199ft Edgar pictures suitable for a slide presenta­ Historical Society. White reported that Elkhart will be tion and are creating a large map for It was reported that the Wilmington joining with other Kansas communi­ display.They hope to have a brochure Stone school house owned by the ties in their plans for the year. Neither to pass out at the 1995 symposium. chapter had a portion ofthe west wall Boise City nor Clayton have definite Mr. O. L. Russell, Marion Sloan Rus­ crumble and fall out. Howanl Mohler plans, although representatives from sell's grandson, is invited to the No­ reported that his committee was ready both communities have discussed it. vember meeting. He will select the to nominate the old school house for Everyone was reminded to make date. inclusion on the State and National their plans known to Wagon Tracks Wagonbed Spring Register. editor, to 175th anniversaIY commit­ President Ed Lewis The Trail Ride committee completed tee chairman HarIY Myers, and to New 4472SRd M plans for the ride June 6-10 on the Mexico Magazine. Paul Bentrup noted Ulysses, KS 67880 TraJI from Fort Riley to Council Grove. there has been a considerable public­ (316) 356-2141 Sharon Haun presented the MBorder ityabout the event and urged everyone Steve Hayward, member from Elk­ to Border" program planned for the to accommodate the foreign visitors hart, presented a program on aerial 175th celebration in 1996. It starts at who might come. views ofSanta Fe Trail ruts at the July Independence, MO, on June 2, 1996, A memo was read from Mrs. Brown 13 meeting in Ulysses. The area cov­ and moves west across Kansas about concerning the 1997 Symposium as a eredwas from theArkansas River sand 15 mlles per day. A program wllI be chapter project. David Hutchison and hllls to northern New Mexico. Point of given each evening at the site selected Dan Sharp, coordinators for the 1997 Rocks historic area, Morton County, The chapter now has 54 members. symposium, urged members to attend KS, was the main focus. He pointed The annual meetingwill be held at the the 1995 symposium at Lamed and out a jeep trail which is sometimes Old Stone Barn, October I, 1995, 4:00 Great Bend, Sept. 21-24. . hard to distinguish from the real ruts. p.m. He also mentioned the Mcompanion Following the business meeting, D. M End of the Trail Ray Blakeley presented an informative trail bulldozed through the yucca and cacti beside the origtnal Trail. President Margaret Sears talk on MTaming the Pla1ns: Home­ 1871 Candela steading and Small Towns.MThe Octo­ President Lewis reported thatseveral Santa Fe, NM 87505 ber meeting will be In Elkhart. businesses in Ulysses had joined the (50S) 473-3124 SFTA and the chapter as institutional Texas Panhandle On May 14 chapter members joined members. He hopes to get at least 20 a public touroffour bulldin~with ties President Kathy Revell businesses to join. Karla French, 35<6 Cinderella to the Santa Fe Trail, sponsored bythe treasurer, reported that she had sent Historic Santa Fe Foundation. Amarillo, TX 79121-1607 62 newsletters prior to the meeting. (806) 358-7320 On July 24 Alcalde Sears called the Lewis spoke of plans for the 175th The SFTA extends condolences to the meeting to order in the visitor center anniversary celebration in Grant at Fort Union. Topics of discussion family ofchapter memberGlen Maples County. A map of the area will be who passed away In June. were what could be done to preserve printed for self-guided tours ofWagon­ TraJI ruts. Anyone willing to help is The chapter's 1995 Roundup meet­ bed Springsite in 1996-1997. He out­ Ing and cookout was held in Palo Duro asked to contact Sears. After touring lined an agenda for various events. the ruins ofthe second and third Fort Canyon August 13. At 3:00 p.m. five Ed Dowell displayed a metal marker members led by Scott Burgan walked Unions, the group traveled to the site showing a covered wagon drawn by a ofthe firstFortUnion under to tutelage down the canyon through intense mule team which had been placed on heat. Burgan provided historical infor­ of Supt. HaTIY Myers. It was built iIi school houses in 1948. He had found 1851 and used for about 10 years. It mation primarily about the Battle of the marker in an antique store. PaloDuro fought in 1875between U.S. was later used as the arsenal. troops and Indians. After the hike, the Hugoton will be the site of the Octo­ The July 15 meeting was brought to group joined other members and ber 12 meeting. order by Louann Jordan at the toured the interpretive center. Follow­ Heart of the Rlnt Hills Fairview CemeteIY, Santa Fe, with 30 ingthe barbecue in the picnic area, the President Donald B. Cress in attendance. Host Marian Meyer had business meeting was called to order RR 1 Box 66 prepared a list of people buried in by Kathy Revett. She went over a sur­ CouncU Grove, KS 66M6 Fairview that would be of interest to vey she had received from SFTA Vice­ (316) 767-5826 the SFTA. Those who traveled the Trail President Ross Marshall. R. L. Robert­ The following officers were elected for were designated. Posters were put up son reported on attempts to arrange a 1995: PresidentDonCress,Vice-Presi­ at the sites ofthese burials with infor­ tour to the Rocky Dell historical site in dent Charles Macy, SecretaIY Helen" mation relatingto their time in histolY, October. This was a Santa Fe Trail Ericson, and Treasurer Joleen Day. occupation, whom they married, campsite and as well as a Comanchero The meeting dates have been changed names ofchildren, and other informa­ and prehistoric site on the Canadian. to the fourth Thursday of January, tion of interest. After a sack lunch all Revett reminded members that the Aprll, July, and September each year. members and guests enjoyed the self­ Cimarron County Historical Society On March 9 a special board meeting gUided tour of the marked burials. asked for help with the 1997 sympo­ was called. Don Cress showed the new Corazon de loa Camlnos sium. Scott Burgan and Dennis Clay­ aluminum sign purchased to interpret PreSident LeRoy LeDoux ton are working on a presentation the Trail ruts 5 mlles west of Councll PO Box 94 -" August 1995 29

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 29 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

Wagon Mound, NM 87752 in 1921 it was purchased by the Cobb Trail, the Battle ofCoan Creek, the Big (505) 666-2262 family who made numerous improve­ Rut on the Jerome Herrmann prop­ On August 20, 1995, chapter mem­ ments, including the construction ofa erty, and Gabriel's Barbecue. Former bers plan to tour the Granada-Fort house In the side ofthe quarry, one of president Lon Palmer is coordinating Union military freight route. Contact the first earth homes in the area. the chapter's efforts. President LeDoux for details. While stone from this site has been Dodge City/Fort Dodge Wet/Dry Routes removed in greatquantities, then mod­ President Janet Bevers President Louis Van Meter em traveler can still envision the de­ 513 Andrew Street PO Box 234 scription written by Survey Commis­ Dodge City, KS 67801 Burdett, KS 67523 sioner George Sibley, who camped (316) 227-8420 (316) 525-6696 near the location in 1825: "We are now On May 13 members met to mount On June 23 members and guests encamped ... at the foot ofa high rocky met at the SilverSpur In Dodge Cityfor bronze plaques on limestone posts to hUl ... some cliffs of soft rock, upon be installed at the Fort Mann site, a noon meal and a presentation by the smooth faces of which are cut the Keith Chadd on the battle of Little PointofRocks four mUes west ofDodge names of many persons, who have at Coon Creek in east Ford County, in­ City, the Caches, and the recently different times passed this way to and. volving troops from Fort Dodge. Chadd identified ruts on the Fort Hays-Fort from New Mexico." Dodge Road northeast of Alexander, has done extensive research in the KS. The partners are in the process of mUltary records, aerial photographs, removing trees, fll dirt, and buildin~ and site visitation. His artistic talents A marker was installed on the Fort from the property. The long range goal were evident in his black-and-white Hays-Fort Dodge Road in Rush is to restore the site to its 19th-century drawing of the battle scene. County, on June 13, on the WUbur appearance including the planting of Brack propertywest ofNekoma, KS. It The chapter project to restore the trees mentioned as grOwing in the area Caches monument west of Dodge City identifies the only known rut between at the time ofSibley's 1825 visit. Big Timbers and Walnut creeks. On on Highway 50 has been completed. hand for the installation was Dr. Bill The funds for the Booth gravestone Scout Stephen Smith undertook the Brenner, Larned. cousin of Mrs. Wil­ project have been raised and the restoration of the concrete and marble bur Brack. Dr. Brenner's grandfather stones have been delivered. The mark­ marker as a requirement for his Eagle was stationed at Fort Hays prior to his ers will be placed at the grave sites of Scout award. Smith is a member of discharge, after which he home­ Lucia Booth. wife ofHenry Booth, and BSA Troop 110. Keith Chadd will paint steaded near the marker site. Nathaniel Booth, Captain booth's son the letters on the marble insert of the born in 1870at Fort Lamed. The chap­ monument. David Klopennborg organ­ On July 8 members met at the Clap­ ter newsletter, Traces will contain the ized this project with Smith. saddle residence in Lamed. Following names of contributors to the project David Klopennborg has been ap­ a barbecue dinner. the business ses­ and the dedication of the gravestones. sion included approval of a fund-rais­ pointed local chairman by the KSHS ing project, the sale of baseball caps Seven Boy Scouts from Edwards for the Dodge City portion ofthe series and tee shirts, and the purchase often County completed Santa Fe Trail-re­ of programs to celebrate the 175th plaques to mark the campsites of the lated Eagle Scout projects during anniversary of the Trail, July 4-7, 1825-1826Santa Fe Trail Surveyteam 1992-1994. A traveling exhibit featur­ 1996. Plans include wagon rides in the in Pawnee, Edwards, and Ford coun­ ing photographs and information rela­ Trail ruts, a black powder rendezvous ties. Subsequently. a program was tive to these projects will be on display at the Warner Ranch grove, and eve­ presented at the August 31, 1825, atvarious locationsin the chapterarea ning seminars. Santa Fe Trail survey team campsite and at the Trail Symposium in Sep­ Missouri River Outfitters tember. Photography for the display in Larned. President Anne Carter The nine campsltes of the survey was provided courtesy of Clay Ward 964NW600 team in present Pawnee, Edwards, and Portraits, Great Bend, KS. Centerview, MO 64019 Ford counties wUJ be identified by The fall meetingofthe chapterwill be (816) 230-7228 bronze plaques mounted on limestone held at the Haun Museum in Jetmore, The April meeting was held in Arrow posts. Two of the existing markers KS, on Nov. 5 at2:00p.m. The program Rock where members visited the town which feature brass plaques contain­ to follow at 2:45 will relate to the Fort and elected the following officers: ing quotes from George Sibley's diary Hays-Fort Dodge Road which ran President Anne Carter, Vice-President will be reversed so that the bronze through Hodgeman County not far Jane Mallinson, Secretary Roger plaques will be seen on the front side from Jetmore. A special invitation is Slusher, Treasurer GlendaSours, and of the marker and the diary entries on extended to the many historyenthusi­ Historian Rlva Jacobs. Board mem­ the back side. Those two markers are asts from Ellis, Rush, Hodgeman, and bers are Bob Dorian, Judy Santner, listed in A SelfGuided Auto TOUT ofthe Ness counties. The chapter welcomes Sandy Slusher, and Stuart Santner. SantaFe TraU in Pawnee, Edwards and their participation as the Fort Hays­ On June 3 members met on the west Ford Counties, Kansas, at Sibley's Fort Dodge Road which traversed lawn ofthe Bingham- Waggoner House , Camp, 2nd and State Streets in those counties was an essential part of in Independence, MO. Bob Dorian and '" Lamed, and Sibley's Ridge, one mUe the Santa Fe Trail. other history enthusiasts shared sur­ east of Garfield. The chapter will participate in the vey techniques used to measure the • The historic property at 2nd and 175th Anniversary of the Santa Fe Santa Fe Trail. Others demonstrated State Street in Lamed, KS, has been Trail being coordinated by the Kansas various 19th-century skills and crafts purchased by chapter members David State Historical Society. Plans call for at both the National Frontier Trails Clapsaddle, Bob Rein, and Mildon various local organizations to present Center (318 West Pacific) and at the Yeager. This was the spot where the programs related to their respective Bingham house across the streetto the survey team camped on August 31, areas during the summer of 1996. The south. MRO held a short business 1825. The site also served as a stone chapter will be responsible for pro­ meetingafter which they adjourned to quarry in the early days ofLarned, and grams related to the 1825 surveyofthe view the new Santa Fe Trail wagon

30 August 1995

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exhibit at the Trails Center. location of the monuments, dedica­ your support. Pauline and Eric Fowler will lead a tions of them. family, friends. and TraIl trek in Independence beglnning schools whereshe taught. Can anyone help me with this project? I will appre­ Historic EI Portal Hotel, 101 N3rd St, Raton at 2:00 p.m. on August 27. For more NM8n40 information, contact President Carter ciate any assistance that anyone can provide. . Las Vegas - San Miguel Chamber ofCom­ (816) 230-7228. merce, PO Box 148, Las Vegas NM Cindy Knolton 8n01 Quivira Centrallnstltutefor the Deqf President Linda Colle Posters from Angel Fire, JackC. Urban, PO Washington University Medical center Box 381, Angel Fire NM 8n10 724 Penn Drive , 818 S Euclid. McPherson, KS 67460 (316) 241-8719 st. Louis MO 6311().1549 ) , FIrst. you should read the three-part Earl & Janice Betts, HC 31 Box 130, Las No report. Vegas NM 8n01 series. concluded in this Issue, about Cottonwood Crossing Tnunan andthe selection ofthesitesfor Lou & Chuck Carter, 1503 Foxmoor Ct, Murfreesboro TN 37129 President John Dick the monuments. and then you should Anna Belle & Joseph L Cartwright, 5317 POBox 103 contact the autlwr. Jane MallinsOn. PO Goessel, KS 67053 Charlotte, Kansas City MO 64110 Box 8604. Sugar Creek MO 64054. If Greg, Dan & Julie Risser, 2993Shenck Rd, No report. possible. I would appreciate receiving a Manheim PA 17545 Bent's Fort copy ofyourpaperaboutArline Nidwls Joe & Helen Roybal, 1951 Flannery Rd, President Earl Casteel Moss when U is completed. Baton Rouge LA 70816 5666 S I06Rd Editor Victoria Scott & Luis Rodriguez, 1815 Alamosa, CO 81101 • • • • • Plaza, Las Vegas NM 8n01 (719) 589-2061 I am trying to track the movements Ronald & Barbara Thompson, 31259 Rd No report. of Heiny Lafayette Dodge. Navajo In­ 36, Holly CO 81047 dian Agent, 1853-1856. from his home I HELP WANTED I in Wisconsin to New Mexico. Dodge Sally Aber, 12913 Bryce NE, Albuquerque apparently traveled to New Mexico NM 87112 I am pushing to have the U.S. Postal along the Santa Fe Trail, perhaps with Yolande Aelvoet, Sparrastraat 70, Loven- Service issue a set ofstamps depicting Kearny's Army of the West or earlier. degem, Belgium 9920 and honoring all ofAmerica's National No military record has been found. so UndaAlaniz,POBox2, WalrousNM8n53 Scenic and Historic Trails. I have writ­ he probably traveled as a cMlian. He Bob Arko, PO Box 722, Trinidad CO 81082 ten to the USPS, magazines, trail or­ later got into the trading business at Mary K Barbee, 818 Willow, Trinidad CO ganizations, and others to encourage Cebolleta and may have had some af­ 81083 the issuing of such a set. This would ffiiation with traders in Missouri. In­ Joan Bennett, 4504 W 78th St, Shawnee broaden public awarenessofthe trails. dian Agent Dodge was killed by Indi­ Mission KS 66208 The postal service also publishes a ans. Ifanyone can help, It will be ap­ J. Otto Berg, 1993 N Meteor Dr, Flagstaff history with each stamp set. Public preciated. AZ 86001 . support is required. One design idea is George A. Blinn, 4 Moya Lane, Santa Fe to use each traIl logo overlaid on the I am also Interested in any Ust of NM 87505 states through which it passes. What inscriptions made by travelers along Barbara Burgess, 6901 Fountalndale" is your idea? Now is the time to write. the Trail dUring the 1840s. Does such Topeka KS 66614 a listing exist. Thank you. It would be Ideal to have the traIl set Barbara C. Colman, HC 75 Box 302, Lamy first-day issue on National Trails Day Dean Sundberg NM 87540 next year. Trail organizations should 114E Hartford Ave Carole Corley, 704 Center St, Garden City send petitions, and Individuals may Phoenix AZ 85022 KS 67846 send postcards and letters to: Citizens I know of no catalog of inscriptions Barbara Dimond, PO Box 443, Manitou Advisory Committee, U.S. Postal SeN­ along the TraIl, but there are a good Springs CO 80829 ice, Room 5500, 475 L'Enfant Plaza, numberfrom the 18408 at Autograph Vicky Eads, PO Box 5, Coolidge KS 67836 Washington DC 20260. Thank you. Rock and SIgnature Rock in the aida­ June Flummerfelt, HC 1 Box 36, Hugoton , ChetFromm homa Panhandle on the SharpfamBy KS 67951 1001 Tompkins ranches. You may wish to visit those Charles E. Hinkle, HC 33 Box 362, Minerai Dr Hill Rd, Las Vegas NM 8n01 Port Orange FL 32119 sUes. Contact Dan orCarol Sharp, HCR 1 Box 83, Boise City OK 73933. Some­ Horace Ferguson, 435 Avenlda Arlena, • • • •• San Clemente CA 92672 one who has searched.for inscriptions I am preparing a research paper on along the Mountain Route is Nancy Steve Harper, 601 Myrtle, Newton KS a lady responsible for several monu­ 67114 Robertson. PO Box 1516, Raton NM Mike Hastings, 11700 Audella Rd #2025, ments placed along the Santa Fe Trail. 87740. A catalog of aU known inscrip­ I understand these monuments still Dallas TX 75243 tions would be a jf.ne projectfor some David L Landes, 225 E McDowell, Ulysses stand today. Her name was Arline B. enthusiastic TraIl travelers to compUe. Nichols, and she married John Trigg KS 67880 Anyone interested? Lynne F. Loss, 11401 Claremont NE, Albu­ Moss on June 14, 1901. She was hired Editor • by the board ofeducation in St. Louis, querque NM 87112 Patricia Meyer, 6090 Rain Dance Trail, lit­ MO, in 1895 to teach for the school of IL...... :N:.;.:E;,,;,W;..S;;.;F~T_A..;;,;,M_E_M_B_ER_S tleton CO 80125 Was __I the deaf. She buried in University Charlie Norton, Leal KS 67861 City, MO. She had two sons, and nei­ This list includes new memberships Greg L. Olsen, 4300' S Chicago Ave, Sioux ther ofthem had children. This is all I received since the last issue. Those Falls SD 57103 can find. received after this printingwill appear Penny Ann Quintana, 123 Baylor, Pueblo I am Interested in any information in the next issue. Ifthere is an error in CO 81005 about her, especially before 1895. I this Information. please send correc­ Roger D. PaIIon, RR 3 Box 665, Conneaut would also like to find out about the tions to the editor. We thank you for lake PA 16316

August 1995 31

Published by UNM Digital Repository, 1995 31 Wagon Tracks, Vol. 9 [1995], Iss. 4, Art. 1

Uoyd Rivera, PO Box 366, Ranchos de Oct. 1, 1995: Annual meetingofHeart Taos NM 87557 of the Flint HUIs Chapter at the Old FROM THE EDITOR E. A. Mike Slater, 1800 W Oklahoma Blvd Stone Bam. 4:00 p.m. On May 23. 1995. lightning struck #10, Alva OK 73717 Oct. IS, 1995: 175th anniversaryplan­ the Historic Thomas Bam on which we Patrick A. Staley, 17 Uttle Bear. Walsen­ se~ra1 ning town meeting. Las Vegas. NM. have been working for years. burg CO 81089 E~n though it had Ugbtnlng rods. the R. D. Tyrrel, 1413 Montezuma Ave. Las Contact Las Vegas CoIC at (SOO) 832­ 5947. hu~ frame structure and e~rythtng Vegas NM 87701 in it burned completelyin a short time. Opal Wagner, 1237 15th, Las Animas CO Oct. 5-8, 1995: Barton County Com· We are still dealing wtth this loss and 81054 munity College Trail Tour. Contact workingto wrap upall business so the Rose Marie Wallen. 116 Mill, Undsborg KS Elaine Simmons. BCCC. (800) 748­ 67456 nonprofit corporation. of which I am 7594. dtssol~d. Jean E. Weers, 7204 W 155th St, Mission treasurer. can be Oct. 12, 1995: Wagonbed Spring Although it seemed that 1995 was KS 66223 Chapter meeting at Hugoton. KS. R. L. "Bob" Wollenman, RR 6 Lake Con­ going to be mostly bad news around trary, St. Joseph MO 64504 Oct. 14, 1995: Pumpkin Patch and here. we had a good wheat ~tand Autumn Faire. Mahaffie Farmstead & our gratn sorghum shows promise. I~_T.;.;.R.;;.A;;.;.;:;IL;.,;;C;.:.A_L;,;;;,;EN;.;.;;D;.;.A,;,;.R~..,j1 Stagecoach Stop Historic Site. Olathe. Our perennial plans to build a new KS. Contact Michelle Caron at (913) home and office on the farm were re­ Everyone Is invited to send notices for 782-6972. cently scuttled when we purchased a this section: provide location. date(s). Oct. 14, 1995: Three Trails Craft spacious historic house in Stockton. time(s). and activity. Remember this Is Show. Alexander Majors Historic . the original portton ofwhich was con· a quarterly. The next issue should ap­ House. 8201 State Line Rd. Kansas structed for the countyjudge in 1900. pear in November. so send information City. MO. 10 am to 5 pm. For informa­ It has been enlarged and remodeled. for December and later to arrive by tion. call Ross Marshall (816) 333­ has plenty of room for our library and October 20. 1995. Thank you. 5556. office. and includes many extras (fire­ Sept. 2-24, 1995: ·Artlsts of the Oct. 15, 1995: Corazon de los cami­ places. landscaping. and a swimmng American West" Exhibit at Fort Larned nos Chapter meeting. Wagon Mound. pool)~ We can start movingon Septem­ NHS. NM. President LeRoy LeDoux (505) ber 1. and it will probably take several Sept. 8, 1995: Senior Citizen's Day. 666-2262. months wtth time out for the sympo­ Mahaffle Farmstead & Stagecoach Oct. 20, 1995: Deadline for next issue sium and numerous other ~ntures. Stop Historic Site. Olathe. KS. Contact of Wagon Tracks. This means that the wr Index has Michelle Caron at (913) 782-6972. Oct. 21,1995: Wet/Dry Routes Chap­ been delayed a3iUn (we did get a roster Sept. 16, 1995: 2nd Annual Santa Fe ter tour of Wet Route. 8-5. cost $10. out this year. although we had vowed Trail Festival. Overbrook. KS. 9:00 am Contact Ida Yeager. 416 Wichita. not to do another one gratts). but we to 4:00 pm. Contact Ed Harmison Lamed KS 67550. hope the next issue ofwr and. in time. (913) 665-7143 days. 665-7215 the index wtll be produced at our new Nov. 5, 1995: Wet/Dry Routes Chap­ headquarters. We wtll keep our house nights. ter meeting at Haun Museum. Jet­ Sept. 17, 1995: Corazon de los cami­ on the farm and our maUtng address more. KS. 2:00 p.m. will remain the same. nos Chapter meeting. Taos. NM. Presi­ Dec. 2-3, 1995: Victorian Christmas dent LeRoy LeDoux (505) 666-2262. Bonita and I look forward to seeing Open House. Mahaffle Farmstead. you at the symposium. This issue com­ Sept. 17-Oct. 6, 1995: Sixth Annual Olathe. KS. Contact Michelle Caron at pletes nine years of editing and pub· Santa Fe Trail Bicyde Trek. contact (913) 782-6972. e~ryone Willard ChUcott. 885 CaminoDel Este. IIshing wr. and we thank Dec. 5 It 7, 1995: Christmas Season who has contributed to. commented Santa Fe. NM 87501. Candlelight Tour of Alexander Majors about. and read our humble efforts. Sept. 21-24, 1995: Biennial SFTA Historical House. 6:30 to 8:30 pm. at We alsoappreciateyourpatience when Symposium. Lamed and Great Bend. 8201 State Line Road. Kansas City It Is late. as this one Is. KS. Steve Linderer. program coordina­ MO. Contact Ross Marshall (816) 333- Happy Trailsl tor. (316) 285-6911. 5556. . --Leo E. Oliva

WAGON TRACKS NONPROFIT ORGANIZATION Santa Fe Trail Association o U.S. PO Box 31 ~ POSTAGE ~ PAID Woodston, KS 67675 a: Q. PERMIT NO. 2 WOODSTON, KS 87875 ~ ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED ,I FORWARDING POSTAGE GUARANTEED i •

32 August 1995

https://digitalrepository.unm.edu/wagon_tracks/vol9/iss4/1 32