ENCYCLOPEDIA of COASTAL SCIENCE Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COASTAL SCIENCE

Volume Editor Maurice Schwartz is Professor Emeritus, Department of Geology at Western Washington University, Bellingham, Washington, United States; where he served near the end of his tenure as Dean of the Graduate School and Bureau for Faculty Research. As well as being an author ofnumer- ous articles which have appeared in the coastal geology literature he was the editor of Spits and Bars (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1972), Barrier Islands (Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross, 1973), Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments (Hutchinson Ross, 1982), and co-edited with Eric Bird The World’s Coastline (Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1985).

Advisory Board

Eric Bird Dieter H. Kelletat Geostudies, 343 Beach Road Universität-GH Essen Black Rock, Victoria 3193 FB9-Physiogeographie Melbourne Universitaetsstrasse 15 Australia Essen 1 D-45117 Germany Charles W. Finkl CPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics Nicholas C. Kraus 2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd. U.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics Laboratory Bacon Raton, FL 33431 Vicksburg, MS 39180 USA USA Saskia Jelgersma Paolo A. Pirazzoli Elzenlaan 6 CNRS – Laboratoire de Geographie Physique Bergen aan Zee 1865 BM 1, Place Aristide Briand The Netherlands 92195 Meudon cedex France

Aim of the Series The Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series provides comprehensive and authoritative coverage of all the main areas in the Earth Sciences. Each volume comprises a focused and carefully chosen collection of contributions from leading names in the subject, with copious illustrations and reference lists. These books represent one of the world’s leading resources for the Earth Sciences community.Previous volumes are being updated and new works published so that the volumes will continue to be essential reading for all professional earth scientists, geologists, geophysicists, climatologists, and oceanographers as well as for teachers and students. See the back of this volume for a current list of titles in the Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Go to www.eseo.com to visit the “Earth Sciences Encyclopedia Online”—the online version of this Encyclopedia Series.

About the Editors Professor Rhodes W. Fairbridge has edited more than 30 Encyclopedias in the Earth Sciences Series. During his career he has worked as a petro- leum geologist in the Middle East, been a WW II intelligence officer in the SW Pacific and led expeditions to the Sahara, Arctic Canada, Arctic Scandinavia, Brazil and New Guinea. He is currently Emeritus Professor of Geology at Columbia University and is affiliated with the Goddard Institute for Space Studies. Professor Michael Rampino has published more than 100 papers in professional journals including Science, Nature, and Scientific American. He has worked in such diverse fields as volcanology, planetary science, sedimentology, and climate studies, and has done field work on six continents. He is currently Associate Professor of Earth and Environmental Sciences at New York University and a consultant at NASA’s Goddard Institute for Space Studies. ENCYCLOPEDIA OF EARTH SCIENCES SERIES

ENCYCLOPEDIA of COASTAL SCIENCE

edited by

MAURICE L.SCHWARTZ Department of Geology Western Washington University, WA, USA A C.I.P. Catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress

ISBN-13 978-1-4020-1903-6 (HB) ISBN-13 978-1-4020-3565-4 (e-book) ISBN-10 1-4020-1903-3 (HB) ISBN-10 1-4020-3565-9 (e-book)

Published by Springer, PO Box 17, 3300 AA Dordrecht, The Netherlands

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Every effort has been made to contact the copyright holders of the figures and tables which have been reproduced from other sources. Anyone who has not been properly credited is requested to contact the publishers, so that due acknowledgement may be made in subsequent editions.

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Printed in the Netherlands To Evelyn Kest, my companion and inspiration Contents

List of Contributors xv Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 71 Foreword xxxiii Paul Sanlaville and Abel Prieur

Preface xxxv Asia, Southern (see Indian Ocean Coasts) 83 Asteroid-Impact Coasts 83 Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches 1 Rhodes W. Fairbridge Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 84 Africa, Coastal Ecology 4 Annie Mercier and Jean-François Hamel Anton McLachlan Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 88 Africa, Coastal Geomorphology 9 Jim D. Hansom Antony R. Orme Atolls 95 Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and David Hopley Light Detection and Ranging 21 Stephen P. Leatherman, Dean Whitman, and Keqi Zhang Australia, Coastal Ecology 96 Karen S. Edyvane Algal Rims 24 Jacques Laborel Australia, Coastal Geomorphology 110 Eric Bird Alluvial-Plain Coasts 25 Daniel F. Belknap Barrier Islands 117 Miles O. Hayes Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides, and Shelf Circulation 27 Barrier 119 Guoqi Han Eric Bird

Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 28 Barriers, Gravel (see Gravel Barriers) 120 Andrew McMinn Bars 120 Aquaculture 33 Brian Greenwood Robert R. Stickney Bay Beaches 129 Archaeological Site Location, Effect of Karl F. Nordstrom Sea-Level Change38 Melanie J. Stright Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation 130 Robin Davidson-Arnott Archaeology 40 Lucille Lewis Johnson Beach Cusps (see Rhythmic Patterns) 138

Arctic, Coastal Ecology 45 Beach Drain 138 Jean-François Hamel and Annie Mercier Per Bruun

Arctic, Coastal Geomorphology 49 Beach Erosion 140 H. Jesse Walker Edward J. Anthony

Artificial Islands 55 Beach Features 145 Marcel J.F. Stive Michael J. Chrzastowski

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology 56 Beach Nourishment 147 Donald Macintosh Charles W. Finkl and H. Jesse Walker

Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology 67 Beach Processes 161 D. Eisma John R. Dingler viii CONTENTS

Beach Profile 169 Central America (see Middle America) 227 Nicholas C. Kraus Chalk Coasts 227 Beach Rating (see Rating Beaches) 172 Vincent May

Beach Ridges 172 Changing Sea Levels 229 Ervin G. Otvos Nils-Axel Mörner Cheniers 233 Beach Safety (see Lifesaving and Beach Safety) 177 Ervin G. Otvos

Beach Sediment Characteristics 177 Classification of Coasts (see Holocene Coastal Geomorphology) 235 Alan S. Trenhaile Cleaning Beaches 235 Beach Stratigraphy 179 Niels West Yoshiki Saito Cliffed Coasts 237 Beach Use and Behaviors 181 Alan S. Trenhaile Niels West Cliffs, Erosion Rates 240 Tsuguo Sunamura Beachrock 183 Robert J. Turner Cliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates 241 Tsuguo Sunamura Beaufort Wind Scale 186 Dilip K. Barua Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone 243 Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins Bioconstruction 186 William T. Fox Coastal Boundaries 246 Peter H.F. Graber Bioengineered Shore Protection 188 Kevin R. Hall Coastal Changes, Gradual 251 B.G. Thom and P.J. Cowell Bioerosion 191 William T. Fox Coastal Changes, Rapid 253 David B. Scott Biogenous Coasts (see Vegetated Coasts) 192 Coastal Climate 255 Biogeomorphology 192 David Greenland Martin J. Baptist Coastal Currents 259 Bioherms and Biostromes 194 Guy Gelfenbaum Jacques Laborel Coastal Engineering (see Shore Protection Structures; Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 194 Navigation Structures) 260 Yuri Dolotov and Pavel Kaplin Coastal Hoodoos 260 Bluffs (see Cliffed Coasts) 203 Shin Wang

Bogs 203 Coastal Lakes and Lagoons 263 Martyn Waller George F. Oertel

Boulder Barricades 204 Coastal Modeling and Simulation 266 Peter S. Rosen V. Chris Lakhan

Boulder Beaches 206 Coastal Processes (see Beach Processes) 270 John McKenna Coastal Sedimentary Facies 270 Boulder Pavements 208 H. Edward Clifton Jim D. Hansom Coastal Soils 278 Bypassing at Littoral Drift Barriers 210 Charles W. Finkl Per Bruun Coastal Subsidence 302 Capping of Contaminated Coastal Areas 216 Zhongyuan Chen and John Rybczyk Ram K. Mohan Coastal Temperature Trends 304 Carbonate Sandy Beaches 218 George A. Maul Andrew D. Short

Caribbean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 221 Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling 306 Gillian Cambers Dilip K. Barua

Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas 226 Coastal Warfare 308 M. MacLeod and J.Andrew G. Cooper Peter L. Guth

Cays 227 Coastal Wells 311 David Hopley Yaacov Nir CONTENTS ix

Coastal Wind Effects 312 Desalination 378 Terry R. Healy Bénédicte Cherbuy and Jean-Christophe Aznar

Coastal Zone Management 313 Desert Coasts 379 Peter W. French Rodman E. Snead

Coastline Changes 319 Dewatering (see Beach Drain) 387 Eric Bird Developed Coasts 387 Coasts, Coastlines, Shores, and Shorelines 323 Nancy L. Jackson and Karl F. Nordstrom George F. Oertel

Cohesive Sediment Transport 327 Dikes 388 Parmeshwar L. Shrestha and Alan F. Blumberg Pieter G.E.F. Augustinus

Computer Simulation (see Coastal Modeling and Simulation) 330 Dissipative Beaches 389 Douglas J. Sherman Conservation of Coastal Sites 330 Vincent May Dredging of Coastal Environments 390 Per Bruun Continental Shelves 337 A.W. Niedoroda Drift and Swash Alignments 395 Eric Bird Conversion Tables (see Appendix 1) 339 Driftwood 397 Coral ReefCoasts 339 Thomas A. Terich Charles R.C. Sheppard Dune Calcarenite (see Eolianite) 398 Coral Reef Islands342 Gisèle Muller-Parker Dune Ridges 398 Terry R. Healy Coral Reefs 343 David Hopley Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches 399 Robert G. Dean Coral Reefs, Emerged 349 David Hopley Economic Value of Beaches 401 Cross-Shore Sediment Transport 352 William B. Stronge Richard J. Seymour El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) 403 Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches 353 Henry F. Diaz Philip D. Osborne and David P. Simpson Endogenic and Exogenic Factors 407 Cuspate Forelands 354 Henry Bokuniewicz Stephen J. Craig-Smith Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Dalmatian Coasts 356 Global Coastal Zone 408 Dieter Kelletat Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins

Dams, Effect on Coasts 357 Engineering Applications of Coastal Jiyu Chen Geomorphology 415 John R.C. Hsu Databases (see Appendix 4) 359 Environmental Quality 419 Michael J. Kennish Dating (see Geochronology) 359 Eolianite 426 Datum (see Sea-Level Datums) 359 Eric Bird

Debris (see Marine Debris–Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter) 359 Eolian Processes 428 Patrick A. Hesp Deltaic Ecology 359 John M. Rybczyk Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting 428 Mark Crowell, Stephen P. Leatherman, and Bruce Douglas Deltas 362 Shea Penland and Mark A. Kulp Erosion Processes 432 Michael R. Rampino

Demography of Coastal Populations 368 Estuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts 434 Iver W. Duedall and George A. Maul Michael J. Kennish

Depth of Closure on Sandy Coasts 374 Estuaries 436 Andrew Morang and William A. Birkemeier Terry R. Healy

Depth of Disturbance 377 Eustasy 439 John P. Ahrens Vivian Gornitz x CONTENTS

Europe, Coastal Ecology 442 History, Coastal Protection 526 J. Pat Doody Roger H. Charlier

Europe, Coastal Geomorphology 452 Holocene Coastal Geomorphology 527 Dieter Kelletat and Anja Scheffers Dieter Kelletat

Faulted Coasts 463 Holocene Epoch 529 Roland P. Pa s koff Neil Roberts

Forecasting (see Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting) 466 Honeycomb Weathering 529 George Mustoe Geochronology 467 Gerhard Schellmann and Helmut Brückner Hoodoos (see Coastal Hoodoos) 530 Human Impact on Coasts 530 Geodesy 472 Richard A. Davis, Jr. Michael P. Stewart Hydrology of the Coastal Zone 535 Geographic Information Systems 472 Diane Horn Shawn M. Boeser Ice-Bordered Coasts 542 Geographical Coastal Zonality 474 H. Jesse Walker Dieter H. Kelletat Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology 546 Geohydraulic Research Centers 477 Baban Ingole James R. Houston Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology 554 Geotextile Applications 479 G.N. Nayak Ram K. Mohan and C.G.R. Nair Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology Glaciated Coasts 481 and Geomorphology 557 Daniel F. Belknap M. Wafar, Sayeeda Wafar, and Prasanna Yennavar

Global Positioning Systems 485 Ingression, Regression, and Transgression 564 Shawn M. Boeser Henry Bokuniewicz

Global Vulnerability Analysis 486 Instrumentation (see Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation) 565 Robert J. Nicholls and Frank M.J. Hoozemans Isostasy 565 Global Warming (see Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming) 491 Kurt Lambeck

Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology (see Appendix 5) 491 Jet Probes 572 Charles W. Finkl and Lindino A. Benedet Gravel Barriers 491 Julian D. Orford Journal Listing (see Appendix 2) 580

Gravel Beaches 492 Karst Coasts 581 David P. Simpson Roland P. Pa s koff

Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming 494 Klint 586 James G. Titus Anto Raukas

Gross Transport 502 Lagoons (see Coastal Lakes and Lagoons) 588 Richard J. Seymour Landslides (see Mass Wasting) 588 Ground-Penetrating Radar 503 Ilya Buynevich and Duncan M. FitzGerald Late Quaternary Marine Transgression 588 Nils-Axel Mörner Groundwater (see Hydrology of the Coastal Zone) 507 Lifesaving and Beach Safety 589 Hazards (see Natural Hazards) 508 B. Chris Brewster

Headland-Bay Beach 508 Light Detection and Ranging (LIDAR) (see Airborne Laser Luis J. Moreno Terrain Mapping) 592

Health Benefits 511 Litter (see Marine Debris) 592 Roger H. Charlier and Marie-Claire P. Chaineux Littoral592 Hindcasting (see Wave Hindcast) 515 Henry Bokuniewicz

History, Coastal Ecology 515 Littoral Cells 594 J. Pat Doody Douglas L. Inman

History, Coastal Geomorphology 519 Littoral Drift Gradient 599 H. Jesse Walker and Molly McGraw Terry R. Healy CONTENTS xi

Log-Spiral Beach (see Headland-Bay Beach) 600 Nearshore Wave Measurement 702 Ping Wang and Gregory W. Stone Longshore Sediment Transport 600 Richard J. Seymour Net Transport 705 Richard Seymour Machair 601 William Ritchie New Zealand, Coastal Ecology 705 Russell Cole and Conrad Pilditch Managed Retreat 602 William J. Neal, David M. Bush, and Orrin H. Pilkey New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology and Oceanography 709 Management (see Coastal Zone Management) 606 Terry R. Healy

Mangroves, Ecology 606 North America, Coastal Ecology 714 F. Blasco, M. Aizpuru, and J. Besnehard Michael S. Kearney and J. Court Stevenson

Mangroves, Geomorphology 611 North America, Coastal Geomorphology 721 Eric Bird Douglas J. Sherman

Mangroves, Remote Sensing 614 Notches 728 F. Blasco, M. Aizpura, and D. Din Ndongo Dieter H. Kelletat

Mapping Shores and Coastal Terrain 618 Numerical Modeling 730 Robert A. Morton Magnus Larson

Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter 623 Oil Spills 734 A.T. Williams, D.T. Tudor and M.R. Gregory Erich R. Gundlach

Marine Parks 628 Oil Spills, High-Energy Coasts 736 Vincent May William Ritchie Offshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges 737 Marine Terraces 632 Randolph A. McBride Paolo A. Pirazzoli Offshore Sand Sheets 739 Mass Wasting 633 Michael S. Fenster Alan S. Trenhaile Organizations (see Appendix 3) 745 Meteorological Effects on Coasts 636 Gregory W. Stone and Robert A. Muller Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology 746 Mark D. Merlin Microtidal Coasts 638 J.Andrew G. Cooper Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology 754 Patrick D. Nunn

Middens (see Shell Middens) 639 Paleocoastlines 757 John C. Kraft Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology 639 Alejandro Yáñez-Arancibia Paraglacial Coasts 760 Donald L. Forbes Mining of Coastal Materials 645 W.R. Osterkamp and R.A. Morton Peat 762 Ian Shennan Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution 647 Douglas L. Inman, Scott A. Jenkins, and Patricia M. Masters Periglacial (see Ice-Bordered Coasts) 764

Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change 651 Photogrammetry Francis A. Galgano and Stephen P. Leatherman E. Robert Thieler and Cheryl J. Hapke 764 Physical Models 769 Monitoring Coastal Ecology 656 Michael S. Bruno J. Pat Doody Placer Deposits 771 Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology 663 Paul D. Komar Andrew Morang and Laurel T. Gorman

Muddy Coasts 674 Pleistocene Epoch 772 Terry R. Healy Dieter H. Kelletat

Natural Hazards 678 Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits 773 Vivian Gornitz Detlef A. Warnke and Hillert Ibbeken

Navigation Structures 684 Polders 778 Nicholas C. Kraus Joost H.J. Terwindt

Nearshore Geomorphological Mapping 685 Pressure Gradient Force 780 Charles W. Finkl George A. Maul

Nearshore Sediment Transport Measurement 698 Profiling, Beach 781 Ping Wang Nicholas C. Kraus xii CONTENTS

RADARSAT-2 784 Sediment Suspension by Waves 850 Gordon C. Staples Rowland J. Atkins

Rating Beaches 785 Sediment Transport (see Cross-Shore Sediment Transport; Stephen P. Leatherman Longshore Sediment Transport) 853 Reclamation 791 P.P. Wong Sedimentary Basins 853 Saskia Jelgersma Reefs, Non-Coral 795 William T. Fox Seismic Displacement 859 Paolo A. Pirazzoli Reflective Beaches 795 Douglas J. Sherman Sequence Stratigraphy 860 Arthur D. Donovan Remote Sensing of Coastal Environments 797 Elijah W. Ramsey III Setbacks 863 Michael S. Fenster Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification 804 Victor Klemas Sharm Coasts 867 Rhythmic Patterns 807 Dieter H. Kelletat Paul D. Komar Shelf Processes 867 Ria 810 Alan W. Niedoroda Eric Bird Shell Middens 870 Rip Currents 811 Sarah K. Campbell Robert W. Brander Shingle Beach (see Gravel Beach) 873 Ripple Marks 813 Carl L. Amos and Patrick L. Friend Shore Platforms 873 Wayne Stephenson and Robert Kirk Rock Coast Processes 815 Alan S. Trenhaile Shore Protection Structures 875 Nicholas C. Kraus Salt Marsh 819 Terry R. Healy Shoreface 877 Sampling Methods (see Monitoring, Coastal Ecology; H. Edward Clifton Monitoring, Coastal Geomorphology) 820 Simple Beach and Surf Zone Models 881 Sand Rights 820 John P. Ahrens Katherine Stone, Orville Magoon, Billy Edge, and Lesley Ewing Sloughs (see Estuaries; Tidal Creeks) 883

Sandy Coasts 821 Small Islands 883 Andrew D. Short George Maul

Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water 825 Sociology, Beaches (see Beach Use and Behaviors) 888 Douglas L. Inman and Scott A. Jenkins South America, Coastal Ecology 888 Sea-Level Change (see Changing Sea Levels) 830 Simone Rabelo da Cunha, Omar Defeo, Anita de Alava, Rosana Moreira da Rocha, Beatrice Padovani Ferreira, Mauro Maida, Sea-Level Changes During the Last Millennium 830 Tognella-M.M.P. De-Rosa, Carlos Emilio Bemvenuti, Roland Gehrels Joel C. Creed and André S. Barreto

Sea-Level Datums (see Tidal Datums) 833 South America, Coastal Geomorphology 905 Norbert P. Psuty and Chizuko Mizobe Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic 833 Jacques Laborel and Françoise Laborel-Deguen Spits 909 Takaaki Uda Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in Depositional Sequences 835 Storm Surge 912 David B. Scott and Franco S. Medioli Vivian Gornitz Sea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic 836 Paolo A. Pirazzoli Storms (see Meterological Effects) 914

Sea-Level Rise, Effect 838 Strandflat 914 James G. Titus Tormod Klemsdal

Sediment Analysis and Classification (see Beach Sediment Structures (see Shore Protection Structures; Characteristics) 846 Navigation Structures) 915

Sediment Budget 846 Submarine Groundwater Discharge 915 Jeffrey H. List Steven L. Krupa and Cynthia J. Gefvert CONTENTS xiii

Submerged Coasts 922 Trottoirs 1017 Wyss W.-S. Yim David Hopley

Submerging Coasts 924 Tsunamis 1017 Paolo A. Pirazzoli Alastair Dawson

Surf Modeling 925 Uplift Coasts 1022 Marshall D. Earle Terry R. Healy

Surf Zone Processes 929 Vegetated Coasts 1024 William R. Dally Denise J. Reed

Surfing 936 Vibracore 1026 William R. Dally Charles W. Finkl and Syed Khalil

Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems 937 Vorticity 1036 R. Keith Raney George A. Maul Tafone 940 Volcanic Coasts 1038 George Mustoe Terry R. Healy

Tectonics and Neotectonics 941 Washover Effects 1041 Paolo A. Pirazzoli William Ritchie

Thalassostatic Terraces 948 Warfare (see Coastal Warfare) 1043 Rhodes W. Fairbridge Thalassotherapy (see Health Benefits) 949 Water Quality 1043 Katherine Pond Tidal Creeks 949 Terry R. Healy Wave and Tide-Dominated Coasts 1046 Edward J. Anthony Tidal Datums 950 Edward B. Hands Wave Climate 1049 George Maul Tidal Environments 954 B.W. Flemming Wave–Current Interaction 1052 Tidal Inlets 958 Patricia L. Wiberg Duncan M. FitzGerald Wave-Dominated Coasts 1053 Tidal Flats 965 Miles O. Hayes V. Semeniuk Wave Environments 1056 Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts 975 Andrew D. Short Congxian Li, Ping Wang,and Daidu Fan Tidal Power 978 Wave Focusing 1059 Roger H. Charlier Terry R. Healy Tidal Prism 981 Wave Hindcasting 1060 Terry M. Hume Dilip K. Barua

Tide-Dominated Coasts 982 Wave Power 1063 Miles O. Hayes Roger H. Charlier Tide Gauges 984 Guy Woppelmann and Paolo A. Pirazzoli Wave Refraction Diagrams 1065 Gerhard Masselink Tide Mill 986 Roger H. Charlier Waves 1069 Gerhard Masselink Tides 987 Bruce Parker Weathering in the Coastal Zone 1074 Rhodes W. Fairbridge Time Series Modeling 996 V. Chris Lakhan Wetlands 1077 Topic Categories (see Appendix 6) 1001 Denise J.Reed Tors 1001 Wetland Restoration 1081 Maurice Schwartz William Streever

Tourism and Coastal Development 1002 Appendix 1: Conversion Tables 1087 Marc L. Miller and Nina P. Hadley Tourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites 1009 Appendix 2: Journals 1089 P.P. Wong Charles W. Finkl Tracers 1013 Appendix 3: Organizations 1100 Paolo Ciavola Charles W. Finkl xiv CONTENTS

Appendix 4: Databases 1145 Appendix 6: Topic Categories 1193 Pravin D. Kunte Maurice Schwartz

Appendix 5: Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology 1155 Index 1197 Eric Bird Contributors

John P. Ahrens Phone: 1 250 881 7372 6702 Springfield Drive Fax: 1 250 881 7470 Mason Neck VA 22079 e-mail: [email protected] USA Sediment Suspension by Waves Phone: 1 703 550 8412 Fax: 1 301 713 0799 Pieter G.E.F. Augustinus e-mail: [email protected] Department of Physical Geography Depth of Disturbance University of Utrecht Simple Beach and Surf Zone Models Heidelberglaan 2 PO Box 80.115 Marie Aizpuru Utrecht 3508 TC Laboratoire d’Ecologie Terrestre (UMR 5552) The Netherlands Centre de Teledetection Phone: 31 30 2532777 13, avenue de Colonel Roche, BP 4072 Fax: 31 30 2531145 31029 Toulouse Cedex 4 e-mail: [email protected] France Dikes Mangroves, Ecology Mangroves, Remote Sensing Jean-Christophe Aznar Desmid-CNRS Anita de Alava 1, rue Parmentier UDECIMAR, Facultad de Ciencias 13200 Arles Igua 4225, France PO Box 10773 1140 Montevideo Phone: 04 90 93 86 86 Uruguay e-mail: alderv.desmid.wanadoo.fr South America, Coastal Ecology Desalination

Carl L. Amos Martin J. Baptist School of Ocean and Earth Science Wl/delft hydraulics Southampton Oceanography Centre Rotterdamseweg 185 Empress Dock, Southampton Delft Hampshire SO14 3ZH The Netherlands UK Phone: 31 15 285 8585 Phone: 44 023 80 596068 Fax: 31 15 285 8582 Fax: 44 023 80 593059 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Biogeomorphology Ripple Marks André Barreto Edward J. Anthony Universidade do Vale Itajai Coastal Geomorphology and Shoreline Centro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do Mar Management Unit JE 2208 Rua Uruguai, 458 Universite du Littoral Côte d’Opale Itajai SC MREN, 32 Avenue Foch, 62930 Wimereux Brasil CEP: 88302-202 France e-mail: [email protected] Phone: ϩ33 3 28 26 01 22, South America, Coastal Ecology Fax: ϩ33 3 28 23 74 13 e-mail: [email protected] Dilip K. Barua Beach Erosion 3370 East 45th Avenue Wave and Tide-Dominated Coasts Vancouver, BC V5R 3E7 Canada Rowland J. Atkins Phone: 604 871 1594 Golder Associates e-mail: [email protected] #204-4430 Chatterton Way Beaufort Wind Scale Victoria BC V8X 5J2 Coastal Upwelling and Downwelling Canada Wave Hindcasting xvi CONTRIBUTORS

Daniel F. Belknap Liberia Department of Earth Sciences e-mail: [email protected] University of Maine Geographic Information Systems Orono ME 04469 Global Positioning Systems USA Phone: 1 207 581 2159 Henry Bokuniewicz Fax:1 207 581 2202 Marine Sciences Research Center e-mail: [email protected] State University of New York Alluvial-Plain Coasts Stony Brook NY 11794 Glaciated Coasts USA Phone: 1 631 632 8674 Carlos Emilio Bemvenuti Fax: 1 631 632 8820 Fundação Universidade Federa do Rio e-mail: [email protected] Grande (FURG) Endogenic and Exogenic Factors Departmento De Oceanografia Ingression, Regression, Transgression CP 474, Rio Grande Littoral Brasil, CEP: 96201-900 Robert W. Brander e-mail: [email protected] School of Biological Earth and Environmental Sciences South America, Coastal Ecology University of New South Wales Sydney NSW 2052 Lindino A. Benedet Australia Coastal Planning and Engineering, Inc. 2481 West Boca Raton Boulevard Phone: 61 2 9385 1558 Boca Raton FL 33431 Fax: 61 2 9385 2899 USA e-mail: [email protected] Jet Probes Rip Currents B. Chris Brewster Jérôme Besnehard United States Life Saving Association TOTAL FINA ELF-DGEP/AEO 3850 Sequoia Street 2, place de la Coupole-la Defence 6 San Diego, CA 92109–6518 92078 Paris La Defence cedex USA France Mangrove, Ecology Phone: 858 581 1221 Fax: 720 535 3274 Eric Bird e-mail: [email protected] Geostudies Lifesaving and Beach Safety 343 Beach Road Helmut Brückner Black Rock, Victoria 3193 Department of Geography Melbourne University of Marburg Australia Deutschhausstr. 10 Phone: 61 3 9589 3738 D-35032 Marburg Fax: 61 3 9589 3738 Germany e-mail: [email protected] Phone: ϩ49 06421 282 4261 Australia, Coastal Geomorphology Barrier Fax: ϩ49 06421 282 8950 Coastline Changes e-mail: [email protected] Drift and Swash Alignments Geochronology Glossary of Coastal Geomorphology Eolianite Michael Bruno Mangroves, Coastal Geomorphology Davidson Laboratory Ria Coasts Stevens Institute of Technology Castle Point on Hudson William A. Birkemeier Hoboken NJ 07030 US Army Corps of Engineers USA Engineer Research and Development Center Phone: 1 201 216 5338 1261 Duck Road, Kitty Hawk NC 27949 Fax: 1 201 216 8214 USA e-mail: [email protected] Depth of Closure on Sandy Beaches Physical Models François Blasco Per Bruun Laboratoire d’Ecologie Terrestre 32 Baynard Cove Road UMR 5552-BP4072 Hilton Head Island, SC 29928 31029 Toulouse Cedex 4, France USA Phone: 33 5 61 55 85 43 Phone: 1 843 671 3862 Fax: 33 5 61 55 85 44 Fax:1 843 785 1154 e-mail: [email protected] Beach Drain Mangroves, Ecology Bypassing at Littoral Drift Barriers Mangroves, Remote Sensing Dredging of Coastal Environments Alan F. Blumberg David M. Bush HydroQual, Inc. Department of Geology 1200 MacArthur Blvd. State University of West Georgia Mahwah NJ 07430, Carrollton GA 30118 USA USA Managed Retreat Phone: 201 529 5151 Cohesive Sediment Transport Ilya V. Buynevich Department of Earth Sciences Shawn M. Boeser Boston University United Nations Boston MA 02215 OCHA Humanitarian Information Centre USA CONTRIBUTORS xvii

Phone: 1 617 353 2530 Università di Ferrara Fax: 1 617 353 3290 Corso Ercole l d’Este, 32 e-mail: [email protected] 444100 Ferrara, Italy Ground-Penetrating Radar Phone: 39 0532 293720 Gillian Cambers Fax: 39 0532 206468 PO Box 783, Rincon e-mail: [email protected] Puerto Rico 00677, USA [email protected] Phone: 1 787 832 3585 Tracers Fax: 1 787 265 2880 H. Edward Clifton e-mail: [email protected] US Geological Survey Caribbean Islands, Coastal 345 Middlefield Rd., MS 999 Ecology and Geomorphology Menlo Park CA 94025 USA Sarah K. Campbell Department ofAnthropology Phone: 1 650 964 1552 Western Washington University e-mail: [email protected] Bellingham WA 98225 Coastal Sedimentary Facies USA Shoreface Phone: 1 360 650 4793 Russell G. Cole Fax: 1 360 650 7668 NIWAR e-mail: [email protected] PO Box 893, Nelson Shell Middens New Zealand Marie-Claire P. Chaineaur Phone: 64 3 548 1715 Institute for Development, Research, and Enquiry Fax:64 3 548 1716 in Coastal Zone Studies e-mail: [email protected] Brussels, Belgium New Zealand, Coastal Ecology Health Benefits J. Andrew G. Cooper Roger H. Charlier Environmental Studies Free University of Brussels University of Ulster Brussels Coleraine, Co. Londonderry Belgium B-1050 BT52 1SA, Northern Ireland Phone: 32 2 649 0755 UK Fax: 32 2 649 0755 Phone: 44 1265 324429 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 44 1265 324911 [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Health Benefits Microtidal Coasts History, Coastal Protection Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas Tidal Power Tide Mill P.J. Cowell Wave Power Coastal Studies Unit Zhongyuan Chen Department of Geography Department of Geography University of Sydney East China Normal University Sydney NSW 2006 Shanghai 200062 Australia China Phone: 61 2 9351 2189 Phone: 86 21 62232706/62233303 Fax:61 2 9351 3644 Fax: 86 21 62232466/62756217 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Coastal Changes, Gradual Coastal Subsidence Stephen J. Craig-Smith Jiyu Chen School of Tourism and Leisure Management Department of Geography UQ Business School East China Normal University The University of Queensland Shanghai 200062 Ipswich, Qld 4305 China Australia e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 61 7 3381 1007 Dams, Effect on Coasts Fax: 61 7 3381 1012 Bénédicte Cherbuy e-mail: [email protected] CEFE-CNRS Cuspate Forelands Route de Mende Joel C. Creed 34000 Montpellier Universidade do Estado do Rio de Janeiro France Departmento de Ecologia-IBRAG Phone: 04 67 61 32 74 PHLC Sala 220 Fax: 04 67 41 06 16 Rua São Francisco Xavier 524 e-mail: [email protected] Reo de Janeiro RJ Desalination Brasil Michael J. Chrzastowski CEP: 20559-900 Illinois State Geological Survey e-mail: [email protected] 615 East Peabody Drive South America, Coastal Ecology Champaign IL 61820-6964 Mark Crowell USA Office of Mitigation Phone: 1 217 244 2194 Federal Emergency Management Agency Fax:1 217 244 0029 Washington DC 20742 e-mail: [email protected] USA Beach Features e-mail: [email protected] Paolo Ciavola Erosion: Historical Analysis and Dipartimento di Scienze Della Terra Forecasting xviii CONTRIBUTORS

Simone Rabelo da Cunha Phone: 1 650 329 5069 Universidade do Vale de Itajai Fax: 1 650 329 5190 Centro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do Mar e-mail: [email protected]. Rua Uruguai, 458, Itajai, SC [email protected] Brasil, CEP: 88302-202 Beach Processes Phone/Fax: 55 407 341 7715 e-mail: [email protected] Yuri Dolotov South America, Coastal Ecology Institute of Water Problems Laboratory of Hydrodynamics William R. Dally Russian Academy of Sciences Surfbreak Engineering Services, Inc Lenin Prospect 14, Moscow 117901 1010 Atlantic St., Suite A-2 Russia Melbourne Beach FL 32951 Fax: 7 095 135 54 15 USA Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Phone: 1 407 733 2296 Ecology and Geomorphology Fax: 1 407 733 2298 e-mail: [email protected] Arthur D. Donovan Surf Zone Processes British Petroleum Surfing UTG, Room 810 PO Box 4587 Robin Davidson-Arnott Houston TX 77210 Department of Geography USA University of Guelph Cell: 1 832 725 4028 Guelph ON N1G 2W1 Phone: 1 281 366 5198 Canada Fax: 1 281 366 7416 Phone: 1 519 824 4120 ext 6719 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 1 519 837 9140 Sequence Stratigraphy e-mail: [email protected] Beach and Nearshore Instrumentation J. Pat Doody Richard A. Davis Jr. National Coastal Consultants Department of Geology 5 Green Lane University of South Florida Brampton, Huntingdon Tampa FL 33620 Cambs. PE 28 4RE USA UK Phone: 1 813 974 2773 Phone: 44 1480 392 706 Fax: 1 813 974 2654 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Europe, Coastal Ecology Human Impact on Coasts History, Coastal Ecology Monitoring Coastal Ecology Alastair Dawson Centre for Quaternary Science Bruce Douglas William Morros Building Laboratory for Coastal Research Coventry University, Priory St. Florida International University Coventry CV1 5FB Miami FL 33199 UK USA e-mail: [email protected] Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting Tsunamis Iver W. Duedall Robert G. Dean College of Engineering Department of Coastal and Ocean Engineering Florida Institute of Technology University of Florida 150, West University Boulevard Gainesville FL 32611-6590 Melbourne FL 32901-6900 USA USA Phone: 1 352 392 2416 e-mail: duedall@winnie.fit.edu Fax: 1 352 392 3466 Demography of Coastal Populations e-mail: [email protected]fl.edu Dynamic Equilibrium of Beaches Marshall D. Earle Neptune Sciences, Inc. Omar Defeo 12310 Pinecrest Rd. UNDECIMAR, Facultad de Ciencias Suite 203, Reston VA 20191 Igua 4225 USA PO Box 10773 Phone: 1 703 620 5858 11400 Montevideo Fax:1 703 620 3900 Uruguay e-mail: [email protected] South America, Coastal Ecology Surf Modeling Henry F. Diaz Billy L. Edge NOAA/OAR/CDC Department of Civil Engineering 325 Broadway, Boulder CO 80303 Texas A&M University USA College Station TX 77845 Fax: 1 303 497 7013 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 409 847 8712 El Niño–Southern Oscillation e-mail: [email protected] Sand Rights John R. Dingler US Geological Survey MS-999 Karen Edyvane 345 Middlefield Road School of Geography & Environmental Studies Menlo Park CA 94025 University of Tasmania USA Private Bag 78, Hobart CONTRIBUTORS xix

Tasmania 7001 Fax: 561 391 9116 Australia e-mail: cfi[email protected] Phone: 61 3 6226 2205 Beach Nourishment Fax: 61 3 6226 2989 Coastal Soils e-mail: [email protected] Jet Probes Australia, Coastal Ecology Journals Nearshore Geomorphological Mapping D. Eisma Organizations Netherlands Institute for Sea Research Vibracore PO Box 59 Den Burg,Texel Duncan M. FitzGerald The Netherlands Department of Earth Sciences Boston University Phone: 31 72 58 947 36 Boston MA 02215 Fax: 31 72 58 947 36 USA Asia, Eastern, Coastal Geomorphology Phone: 1 617 353 2530 Lesley C. Ewing Fax:1 617 353 3290 CSPBA, c/o California Coastal Commission e-mail: [email protected] 45 Fremont St., Suite 2000 Ground-Penetrating Radar San Francisco CA 94105 Tidal Inlets USA B.W. Flemming Phone: 1 415 904 5291 Senckenberg Institute Fax: 1 415 904 5400 Schleusen street 39A e-mail: [email protected] D-26382 Wilhelmshaven Sand Rights Germany Phone: 49 4421 9475 36 Rhodes W. Fairbridge Fax: 49 4421 9475 50 Center for Climate Systems Research e-mail: bw.fl[email protected] Goddard Institute for Space Studies/NASA Tidal Environments Columbia University 2880 Broadway Donald L. Forbes New York NY 10025 Geological Survey of Canada USA Atlantic Geoscience Centre Phone: w 1 212 663 8793 Bedford Institute of Oceanography Fax: w 1 212 678 5552 PO Box 1006, Dartmouth Phone: s 1 516 267 8329 Nova Scotia B2Y 4A2 Fax:s 1 516 267 8329 Canada e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 902 426 7737 Asteroid-Impact Coasts Fax:902 425 4104 Thalassostatic Terraces e-mail: [email protected] Weathering in the Coastal Zone Paraglacial Coasts Daidu Fan William T. Fox Marine Geology Laboratory Department of Geology Tongji University, Shanghai 200092 Center for Environmental Studies People’s Republic of China Williams College Phone: 86 21 65982208 Williamstown MA 01267 Fax:86 21 65025320 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 413 597 3927 Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts Fax: 1 413 597 3489 e-mail: [email protected] Michael S. Fenster Bioconstruction Environmental Studies Program Bioerosion Randolph-Macon College Reefs, Non-Coral Ashland VA 23005 USA Peter W. French Phone: 1 804 752 3745 Department of Geography Fax:1 804 752 4724 Royal Holloway e-mail: [email protected] University of London Offshore Sand Sheets Egham, Surrey, TW20 0EX Setbacks UK Phone: 44 1784 44 35 71 Beatrice Padovani Ferreira Fax: 44 1784 47 28 36 Universidade Federal de Pernambuco e-mail: [email protected] Departmento de Oceanografia Coastal Zone Management Av. Arquitetura S/N Recife PE Patrick L. Friend Brazil CEP: 50740-550 School of Ocean and Earth Sciences Southampton Oceanography Centre e-mail: [email protected] Empress Dock, Southampton South America, Coastal Ecology Hampshire SO14 3ZH UK Charles W. Finkl Ripple Marks CPE Coastal Geology and Geomatics 2481 N.W. Boca Raton Blvd. Francis A. Galgano Boca Rton, FL 33431 Department of Geography and USA Environmental Engineering Phone: 561 391 8102 United States Military Academy xx CONTRIBUTORS

West Point NY 10996 Scarborough Campus USA University of Toronto Phone: 1 914 938 4035 1265 Military Trail Fax: 1 914 938 3339 Scarborough ON M1C 1A4 e-mail: [email protected] Canada Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change Phone: 1 416 287 7326 Fax:1 416 287 7204 Cynthia J. Gefvert e-mail: [email protected] South Florida Water Management District Bars 3301 Gun Club Road West Palm Beach FL 33406 Murray R. Gregory USA Department of Geology Phone: 1 561 682 6923 University of Auckland Fax:1 561 682 5923 Private Bag 92019 e-mail: [email protected] Auckland Submarine Groundwater Discharge New Zealand e-mail: [email protected] Roland Gehrels Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter Quaternary Environments Research Group Department of Geographical Sciences Eric R. Gundlach University of Plymouth, Plymouth PL4 8AA E-Tech International Inc. UK PO Box 2976 Phone: 44 1752 233079 Acton MA 01720-6976 Fax: 44 1752 233054 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 978 264 9682 Sea-Level Changes During the Fax: 1 978 264 1926 Last Millennium e-mail: [email protected] Oil Spills Guy Gelfenbaum US Geological Survey Peter L. Guth Coastal and Marine Geology Program, MS 999 Department of Oceanography 345 Middlefield Road US Naval Academy Menlo Park CA 94025 572 Holloway Road USA Annapolis, MD 21402-5026 Phone: 1 650 329-5483 USA Fax:1 650 329 5190 Phone: 1 410 293 6560 e-mail: [email protected] Fax:1 410 293 2137 Coastal Currents e-mail: [email protected] Coastal Warfare Laurel T. Gorman Information Technology Laboratory Nina P. Hadley US Army Waterways Experiment Station Tidal Delta Consulting 3909 Halls Ferry Rd. 5632 1/2 20th Avenue NE Vicksburg MS 39180 Seattle WA 98105 USA USA Phone: 601 634 4484 Phone: 1 206 527 0885 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology Tourism and Coastal Development Vivian Gornitz Kevin R. Hall Center for Climate Systems Research Department of Civil Engineering Columbia University Centre for Water and the Environment New York NY 10025 Queens University USA Kingston ON K7L 3N6 e-mail: [email protected] Canada Eustasy Phone: 613 533 2127 Natural Hazards Fax: 613 533 2128 Storm Surge e-mail: [email protected] Bioengineered Shore Protection Peter H.F. Graber 138 Altura Way Jean-François Hamel Greenbrae CA 94904 Society for the Exploration and Valuing of USA the Environment (SEVE) Phone: 1 415 461 9032 655 rue de la Rivière Fax: 1 415 461 8338 Katevale, Quebec J0B 1WO e-mail: [email protected] Canada Coastal Boundaries Phone: 819 843 3466 Fax: 819 843 3466 David Greenland e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geography Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology Louisiana State University Arctic, Coastal Ecology Baton Rouge LA 70803 USA Guoqi Han e-mail: [email protected] Northwest Atlantic Fisheries Centre Coastal Climate Fisheries and Oceans Canada PO Box 5667 Brian Greenwood St. John’s, NF A1C 5X1 Division of Physical Sciences Canada CONTRIBUTORS xxi

Phone: 709 772 4326 The Netherlands Fax: 709 772 4105 Phone: 31 15 285 85 05 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 31 15 285 87 18 Altimeter Surveys, Coastal Tides and e-mail: [email protected] Shelf Circulation Global Vulnerability Analysis Edward B. Hands David Hopley 2 Bugle Ridge Road Coastal and Marine Consultancies Pty Ltd Vicksburg MS 39180-4314 3 Wingadee Court USA Annandale e-mail: [email protected] Townsville QLD 4814 Tidal Datums Australia Phone: 61 7 4725 2832 Jim D. Hansom Fax:61 7 4779 1400 Department of Geography and Topographic Science e-mail: [email protected] University of Glasgow Atolls Glasgow G12 8QQ Cays Scotland Coral Reefs UK Coral Reefs, Emerged Phone: 44 0141 330 5406 Trottoirs Fax: 44 0141 330 4894 Diane P. Horn e-mail: [email protected] School of Geography Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology Birbeck College Boulder Pavement University of London Malet Street Cheryl J. Hapke London WC1E 7HX USGS, Pacific Science Center England 1156, High St. UK Santa Cruz CA 95064 USA Phone: 171 631 6480 Photogrammetry Fax:171 631 6498 e-mail: [email protected] Miles O. Hayes Hydrology of Coastal Zone Research Planning, Inc. PO Box 328 James R. Houston 1121 Park Street Coastal Engineering Research Center Columbia SC 29202 USAE Waterways Experiment Station USA 3909 Halls Ferry Rd. Vicksburg MS 39180 Phone: 1 803 256 7322 USA Fax:1 803 254 6445 e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 601 634 2000 Barrier Islands Fax: 1 601 634 2818 Tide-Dominated Coasts e-mail: [email protected] Wave-Dominated Coasts Geohydraulic Research Centers

Terry R. Healy John R.C. Hsu Earth Sciences Department Department of Marine Environment and Engineering University of Waikato National Sun Yat-Sen University Hamilton 70 Lien-Hai Road New Zealand Kaohsiung City 80424 Phone: 64 7 8384061 Taiwan Fax:64 7 8560115 Phone: 886 7 525 2000 ext 5076 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 16 886 7 525 5060 Coastal Wind Effects e-mail: [email protected] Dune Ridges Engineering Applications of Coastal Geomorphology Estuaries Littoral Drift Gradient Terry M. Hume Muddy Coasts Water Quality Centre New Zealand, Coastal Geomorphology DSIR-Marine and Freshwater Salt Marsh Department of Scientific and Industrial Research Tidal Creeks PO Box 11-155 Uplift Coasts Hamilton Volcanic Coasts New Zealand Wave Focusing Phone: 64 7 8561729 Fax: 64 7 8560151 Patrick A. Hesp e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geography and Anthroplogy Tidal Prism Louisiana State University Baton Rouge, LA 70803–4105 Hillert Ibbeken USA Instutut fur. Geologie, Geophysik und Geoinformatik Phone: 1 225 578–6244 Free University of Berlin Fax: 1 225 578–4420 Malteser street 74-100, D-12249 e-mail: [email protected] Berlin Eolian Processes Germany Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits Frank M.J. Hoozemans WL/Delft Hydraulics Baban Ingole 2600 MH Delft Biology Division xxii CONTRIBUTORS

National Institute of Oceanography University of Maryland Dona Paula, Goa 403004 College Park MD 20742 India USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 301 405 4057 Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Ecology Fax:1 301 314 9299 e-mail: [email protected] Douglas L. Inman North America, Coastal Ecology Department of Center for Coastal Studies Scripps Institution of Oceanography Dieter H. Kelletat University of California, San Diego Universität-GH Essen La Jolla CA 92093 0209 FB9-Physiogeographie USA Universitaetsstrasse 15 Phone: 1 858 534 4334 Essen 1 D-45117 Fax: 1 858 534 0300 Germany e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 49 201 183 3162 Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches Fax: 49 201 183 2811 Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone e-mail: [email protected] Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal Zone Dalmatian Coasts Littoral Cells Europe, Coastal Geomorphology Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution Geographical Coastal Zonality Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water Holocene Coastal Geomorphology Nancy L. Jackson Notches Environment Policy Studies Pleistocene Epoch New Jersy Institute of Technology Sharm Coasts University Heights Michael J. Kennish Newark NJ 071012 Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences USA Rutgers University Phone: 1 973 596 8467 New Brunswick NJ 08901-8521 Fax:1973 642 4689 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 732 932 8959 ext 240 Developed Coasts Fax: 1 732 932 6557 Saskia Jelgersma e-mail: [email protected] Elzenlaan 6 Environmental Quality Bergen aan Zee 1865 BM Estuaries, Anthropogenic Impacts The Netherlands Syed Khalil Phone: 31 72 5894370 Coastal Restoration Division Fax: 31 72 5894370 Office of Coastal Restoration and Management Sedimentary Basins Louisiana Department of Natural Resources Scott A. Jenkins 617 North 3rd St., PO Box 44027 Center for Coastal Studies Baton Rouge, LA 70804-4027 Scripps Institution of Oceanography USA University of California, San Diego Phone: 1 225 342 7308 La Jolla CA 92093-0209 e-mail: [email protected] USA Vibracore Phone: 858 534 6480 Fax: 858 534 0300 Robert Kirk e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geography Accretion and Erosion Waves on Beaches University of Canterbury Climate Patterns in the Coastal Zone Private Bag 4800 Energy and Sediment Budgets of the Global Coastal Zone Christchurch Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution New Zealand Scour and Burial of Objects in Shallow Water Phone: 64 3 3642 893 Fax:64 3 3642 2586 Lucille Lewis Johnson e-mail: [email protected] Department of Anthropology Shore Platforms Mail Drop 375 Vassar College Victor Klemas Poughkeepsie NY 12601 College of Marine Studies USA University of Delaware Phone: 1 914 (845) 437 5507 Newark DE 19716 Fax: 1 914 (845) 437 7287 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 302 831 8256 Archaeology Fax: 1 302 831 6838 Pavel A. Kaplin e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geography Remote Sensing: Wetlands Classification Moscow State University Moscow 119899 Tormod Klemsdal Russia Department of Geography University of Oslo Phone: 095 9392152 PO Box 1042 Blindern Fax: 095 9392123 N-0316 Oslo Norway Black and Caspian Seas, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology Phone: 47 22 856931 Fax: 47 22 857230 Michael S. Kearney e-mail: tormod.klemsdal@geografi.uio.no Department of Geography Strandflat CONTRIBUTORS xxiii

Paul D. Komar Case 901, Faculté des Sciences de Luminy College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences F13288 Marseille, Cedex 9 Oregon State University France Corvallis OR 97331 5503 Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic USA Phone: 1 541 737 5210 V. Chris Lakhan Fax:1 541 737 2064 Department of Earth Sciences e-mail: [email protected] School of Physical Sciences Placer Deposits University of Windsor Rhythmic Patterns Windsor, Ontario Canada N9B 3P4 John C. Kraft Phone: 1 519 253 4232 ext 2183 Department of Geology Fax: 1 519 253 6214/973 7081 University of Delaware e-mail: [email protected] Newark DE 19716 Coastal Modeling and Simulation USA Time Series Modeling Phone: 1 610 287 9385 1 302 831 8706 Kurt Lambeck Fax:1 302 831 4158 Research School of Earth Sciences e-mail: [email protected] Australian National University Paleocoastlines Canberra ACT 0200 Australia Nicholas C. Kraus e-mail: [email protected] U.S. Army, Coastal Hydraulics Laboratory Isostasy Vicksburg MS 39180 USA Magnus Larson Phone: 1 601 634 2016 Department of Water Resources Engineering Fax: 1 601 634 3080 University of Lund e-mail: [email protected] Box 118 Beach Profile S-221 00 Lund Navigation Structures Sweden Profiling, Beach Phone: 46 46 222 8729 Shore Protection Structures Fax: 46 46 222 4435 e-mail: [email protected] Steven L. Krupa Numerical Modeling South Florida Water Discharge Management District 33012 Gun Club Road Stephen P. Leatherman West Palm Beach FL 33406 Laboratory for Coastal Research & International USA Hurricane Center Phone: 1 561 682 6923 Florida International University Fax:1 561 682 6442 10555 West Flagler St. e-mail: [email protected] Miami FL 33199 [email protected] USA Submarine Groundwater Phone: 1 305 348 6304 Discharge Fax:1 305 348 1605 e-mail: leatherman@fiu.edu Mark A. Kulp Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection Department of Geology and Geophysics and Ranging University of New Orleans Erosion: Historical Analysis and Forecasting New Orleans LA 70148 Modes and Patterns of Shoreline Change USA Rating Beaches Phone: 1 504 280 3119 Fax: 1 504 280 7396 Congxian Li e-mail: [email protected] Marine Geology Laboratory Deltas Tongji University Shanghai 200092 Pravin D. Kunte People’s Republic of China National Institute of Oceanography Phone: 86 21 65982208 Dona Paula, Goa 403004 Fax: 86 21 65025320 India e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 91 (0)832 221322, 226253 ext 4387 Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts Fax: 91 (0)832 223340, 229102 Jeffrey H. List e-mail: [email protected] US Geological Survey [email protected] 384 Woods Hole Road Databases Woods Hole MA 02543 Jacques Laborel USA UMR DIMAR, Université de la Méditerranée Phone: 1 508 457 2343 Case 901, Faculté des Sciences de Luminy Fax: 1 508 457 2310 F13288 Marseille, Cedex 9 e-mail: [email protected] France Sediment Budget Phone: 33 91 283 6032 Donald Macintosh e-mail: [email protected] Department of Ecology and Genetics Algal Rims University of Aarhus Bioherms and Biostromes Aarhus C DK-8000 Sea-Level Indicators, Biologic Denmark Françoise Laborel-Deguen e-mail: [email protected] UMR DIMAR, Université de la Méditerranée Asia, Eastern, Coastal Ecology xxiv CONTRIBUTORS

M. MacLeod Bournemouth University Department of Natural Resource Economics Talbot Campus Scottish Agricultural College Fern Barrow Edinburgh EH9 3JG Poole Dorset BH12 5BB Scotland UK UK Phone: 44 1202 595178 Phone: 0131 535 4387 Fax: 44 1202 595255 Fax: 0131 667 2601 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Chalk Coasts Carrying Capacity in Coastal Areas Conservation of Coastal Sites Marine Parks Molly McGraw Department of Geography and Anthropology Randolph A. McBride Louisiana State University Department of Geography and Earth Science Baton Rouge LA 70803 George Mason University USA Fairfax VA 22030 Phone: 225 578 6130 USA Fax: 225 578 4420 Phone: 1 703 993 1642 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 1 703 993 1216 History, Coastal Geomorphology e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Orville T. Magoon Offshore Sand Banks and Linear Sand Ridges Coastal Zone Foundation PO Box 279 Middletown CA 95461 John McKenna USA Coastal Studies Research Group School of Environmental Studies Phone: 1 707 987 2358 ext 207 University of Ulster Fax: 1 707 987 9351 Coleraine BT52 1SA e-mail: [email protected] Northern Ireland Sand Rights UK Mauro Maida Phone: 44 28 70 324055 Universidade Federal de Pernambuco Fax: 44 28 70 324911 Departmento de Oceanografia e-mail: [email protected] Av. Arquitetura S/N Boulder Beaches Recife PE Brasil Anton McLachlan CEP: 50740-550 College of Science South America, Coastal Ecology Sultan Qaboos University PO Box 36, SQU 123 Gerhard Masselink Oman Department of Geography Phone: 968 515400 Loughborough University Fax: 968 513415 Loughborough LE11 3TU e-mail: [email protected] UK Africa, Coastal Ecology Phone: 15 9 222746 Fax:15 9 223930 Andrew McMinn e-mail: [email protected] Institute of Antarctic and Southern Ocean Studies Wave Refraction Diagrams University of Tasmania Waves GPO Box 252-77, Hobart 7001 Tasmania Patricia M. Masters Australia University of California, San Diego Scripps Institution of Oceanography Phone: 61 3 6226 2980 La Jolla CA 92093-0309 Fax:61 3 6226 2973 USA e-mail: [email protected] Antarctica, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology Phone: 1 858 534 4334 Fax: 1 858 534 0300 e-mail: [email protected] Franco S. Medioli Modeling Platforms, Terraces, and Coastal Evolution Centre for Marine Geology Dalhousie University George A. Maul Halifax College of Engineering Nova Scotia B3H3J5 Florida Institute of Technology Canada 150, West University Boulevard e-mail: [email protected] Melbourne FL 32901-6988 Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in USA Depositional Sequences Phone: 1 407 674 7453 Fax: 1 407 674 7212 Annie Mercier e-mail: gmaul@fit.edu Society for the Exploration and Valuing of the Coastal Temperature Trends Environment (SEVE) Demography of Coastal Population 655 rue de la Rivière Pressure Gradient Force Katevale, Quebec J0B 1WO Small Islands Canada Vorticity Phone: 819 843 3466 Wave Climate Fax: 819 843 3466 e-mail: [email protected] Vincent May Arctic, Coastal Ecology Department of Conservation Sciences Atlantic Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology CONTRIBUTORS xxv

Mark D. Merlin Phone: 1 727 803 8747 ext 3080 Biology Program Fax: 1 727 803 2032 Dean Hall, rm. 2 e-mail: [email protected] University of Hawaii at Mãnoa Mapping Shores and Coastal Terrain Honolulu, Hawaii 96822 Mining of Coastal Materials USA Robert A. Muller e-mail: [email protected] Coastal Studies Institute Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology Louisiana State University Marc L. Miller Baton Rouge LA 70803 School of Marine Affairs USA University of Washington Meteorological Effects on Coasts Seattle WA 98195 Gisèle Muller-Parker USA Department of Biology e-mail: [email protected] Western Washington University Tourism and Coastal Development Bellingham WA 98225 USA Chizuko Mizobe Phone: 1 360 650 4885 Sandy Hook Cooperative Research Institute Fax: 1 360 650 7284 74 Magruder Road e-mail: [email protected] Institute of Marine Coastal Sciences Coral Reef Islands Rutgers University Highlands NJ 07732 George Mustoe USA Department of Geology, MS 9080 South America,Coastal Geomorphology Western Washington University Bellingham WA 98225 Ram K. Mohan USA Blasland, Bouck & Lee, Inc. Phone: 1 360 650 3585 100 Four Falls Corp Center, Suite 106 Fax:1 360 650 7302 W. Conshohocken PA 19428–2950 e-mail: [email protected] USA Honeycomb Weathering Phone: 848 530 9119 Tafone Fax: 848 530 9118 e-mail: [email protected] C.G.R. Nair Capping of Contaminated Coastal Areas Science, Technology and Environment Department Geotextile Applications University of Kerala Trivandrum -14, Kerala Luis J. Moreno India (Despacho C-276) Phone: 11 91 471 323545 Subdirección General de Actuaciones en la Costa e-mail: [email protected] Dirección General de Costas Geotextile Applications Secretaría de Estado de Aguas y Costas Ministerio de Medio Ambiente G.N. Nayak Plaza de San Juan de la Cruz, s/n Department of Marine Sciences 28071 Madrid Goa University Spain Goa, 403 203 Phone: 34 91 597 6870 India Fax: 34 91 597 5924 Phone: 91 832 221375 ext 262 e-mail: [email protected] Fax:91 832 224184 Headland-Bay Beach e-mail: [email protected] Indian Ocean Coasts, Coastal Geomorphology Andrew Morang CERC, US Army Waterways Experiment Station Daniel Din Ndongo 3909 Halls Ferry Road Departement de Biologie Vegetale - BP 24157 Vicksburg MS 39180 Universite de Douala USA Douala, Cameroun Mangroves, Remote Sensing Phone: 1 601 634 2064 Fax:1 601 634 3080 William J. Neal e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geology Depth of Closure on Sandy Coasts Grand Valley State University Monitoring Coastal Geomorphology Allendale MI 49401 USA Nils-Axel Mörner Managed Retreat Paleogeophysics and Geodynamics Stockholm University Robert J.Nicholls S-10691 Stockholm Coastal Geomorphology Sweden Midlesex University Phone: 46 8 770 6771 Queensway Enfield EN3 4SF Fax: 46 8 790 6777 UK e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 44 181 362 5569 Changing Sea Levels Fax: 44 181 362 6957 Late Quaternary Marine Transgression e-mail: [email protected] Global Vulnerability Analysis Robert A. Morton US Geological Survey Alan W. Niedoroda Center for Coastal Geology URS Corporation 600 Fourth St. South 3676 Hartsfield Road St. Petersburg FL 33701-4846 Tallahassee FL 32303 USA USA xxvi CONTRIBUTORS

Phone: 1 850 574 3197 W.R. Osterkamp Fax: 1 850 576 3676 US Geological Survey e-mail: [email protected] 1675 W. Anklam Rd. Continental Shelves Tuscon AZ 85745 Shelf Processes USA Phone: 1 520 670 6821 ext 113 Yaacov Nir Fax:1 520 670 6806 15 Shimeoni St. e-mail: [email protected] Rehovot 76248, Israel Mining of Coastal Materials Phone: 972 8 0468862 Ervin G. Otvos Fax: 972 8 0468862 Institute of Marine Sciences e-mail: [email protected] 703 East Beach Blvd. [email protected] PO Box 7000 Coastal Wells Ocean Springs MS 39566-7000 Karl F. Nordstrom USA Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences Rutgers University Phone: 1 228 872 4235 71 Dudley Road Fax: 1 228 872 4204 New Brunswick NJ 08901-8521 e-mail: [email protected] USA Beach Ridges Cheniers Phone: 1 732 932 6555 ext 502 e-mail: [email protected] Bruce Parker Bay Beaches Coast Survey Development Laboratory Developed Coasts National Ocean Service, NOAA 1315 East-West Highway, Rm 7806 Patrick D. Nunn Silver Spring MD 20910 Department of Geography USA University of the South Pacific Phone: 1 301 713 2801 PO Box 1168 Fax: 1 301 713 4501 Suva e-mail: [email protected] Fiji Tides Phone: 679 212542 Fax: 679 301487 Roland P. P a s koff e-mail: [email protected] 10, Square Saint-Florentin Pacific Ocean Islands, Coastal Geomorphology Le Chesnay F78150 France George F. Oertel Phone: 33 1 39556002 Department of Oceanography Fax: 33 1 39559291 Old Dominion University e-mail: [email protected] Norfolk VA 23529 Faulted Coasts USA Karst Coasts Phone: 1 757 683 4935 Fax:1 757 683 5303 Shea Penland e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geology and Geophysics Coastal Lakes and Lagoons University of New Orleans Coasts, Coastlines, Shores and Shorelines New Orleans LA 70148 USA Phone: 1 504 280 3119 Julian D. Orford Fax: 1 504 280 7396 School of Geography e-mail: [email protected] Queen’s University Deltas Belfast BT7 1NN UK Conrad A. Pilditch Phone: 44 2890 335142 Department of Biological Sciences Fax: 44 2890 321280 University of Waikato e-mail: [email protected] PB 3105 Gravel Barriers Hamilton New Zealand Antony R. Orme Phone: 64 7 838 4466 ext 6132 Department of Geography Fax:64 7 838 4324 University Of California e-mail: [email protected] Los Angeles CA 90095-1524 New Zealand, Coastal Ecology USA Phone: 1 310 825 1516 Orrin H. Pilkey e-mail: [email protected] Division of Earth and Ocean Sciences Africa, Coastal Geomorphology Duke University Durham NC 27708-0227 Philip D. Osborne USA Pacific International Engineering Phone: 1 919 684 4238 PO 1599 Fax: 1 919 684 5833 Edmonds WA 98020 e-mail: [email protected] USA Foreword Phone: 1 425 921 1720 Managed Retreat Fax:1 425 744 1400 e-mail: [email protected] Paolo A. Pirazzoli Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches 16 rue de la Grange Bateliere CONTRIBUTORS xxvii

Paris 75009 Anto Raukas France Institute of Geology Phone: 33 1 4507 5558 Estonian Academy of Sciences Fax: 33 1 4507 5830 7 Estonia Boulevard e-mail: [email protected] Tallinn EE 10143 Marine Terraces Estonia Sea-Level Indicators, Geomorphic Phone: 372 6454659 Seismic Displacement Fax: 372 6312074 Submerging Coasts e-mail: [email protected] Tectonics and Neotectonics Klint Tide Gauges Denise J.Reed Katherine Pond Department of Geology and Geophysics Robens Centre for Public and Environmental Health University of New Orleans University of Surrey New Orleans LA 70148 Guilford, Surrey USA UK Phone: 1 504 280 7395 Phone: 44 1483 879935 Fax:1 504 280 7396 Fax: 44 1483 879971 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Vegetated Coasts Water Quality Wetlands

Abel Prieur William Ritchie FRE 2158-CNRS Aberdeen Institute of Coastal Science & Centre de Paleontologie Management stratagraphique et Pleoecologie King’s College 27-43 boulevard du 11 novembre 1918 Aberdeen AB42 3UE F-69622 Villeurbanne Cedex Scotland, France UK Phone: 33 04 72 444 84 88 Phone: 44 1224 274474/272522 e-mail: abel.prieur@univ_lyon1.fr Fax: 44 1224 272497 Asia, Middle East, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology e-mail: [email protected] Machair Norbert P. Psuty Oil Spills, High Energy Coasts Sandy Hook Cooperative Research Programs Washover Effects Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences Rutgers University Neil Roberts Highlands NJ 07732 School of Geography USA University of Plymouth Phone: 1 732 708 1462 Drake Circus, Plymouth e-mail: [email protected] Devon PL4 BAA South America, Coastal Geomorphology Phone: 44 1752 233 051 Fax: 44 1752 233 054 Michael R. Rampino e-mail: [email protected] Earth and Environmental Science Program Holocene Epoch New York University 100 Washington Square East Rosana Moreira da Rocha New York NY 10003 Universidade Federal do Parana USA Departmento do Zoologia Phone: 1 212 998 3743 CP 19020 Curitiba PR Brasil Fax:1 212 995 3820 CEP: 81.531-990 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] South America, Coastal Ecology Erosion Processes Peter J. Rosen Elijah W. Ramsey III Department of Earth and Environmental US Geological Survey Sciences National Wetlands Research Center 14 Holmes Hall 700 Cajundome Blvd. Northeastern University Lafayette LA 70506 Boston MA 02115 USA USA Phone: 1 318 266 8575 Phone: 1 617 373 4380 Fax: 1 318 266 8616 Fax: 1 617 373 4378 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Boulder Barricades Remote Sensing of Coastal Environments John M. Rybczyk R.Keith Raney Huxley College of the Environment Applied Physics Laboratory Western Washington University Johns Hopkins University Bellingham WA 98225 Laurel MD USA USA Phone: 1 360 650 2081 Phone: 1 240 228 5384 Fax: 1 360 650 2842 Fax:1 240 228 5548 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Coastal Subsidence Synthetic Aperture Radar Systems Deltaic Ecology xxviii CONTRIBUTORS

Yoshiki Saito La Jolla CA 92093-0220 MRE, Geological Survey of Japan, AIST USA Central 7, Higashi 1-1-1 Phone: 1 858 534 2561 Tsukuba 305 8567 Fax: 1 858 455 5575 Japan e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 81 298 61 3895 Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Fax:81 298 61 3747 Gross Transport e-mail: [email protected] Longshore Sediment Transport Beach Stratigraphy Net Transport

Paul Sanlaville Ian Shennan UMR 5647, CNRS-Université de Lyon 2 Department of Geography Maison de l’Orient Méditerranéen University of Durham 7 rue Raulin Durham DH1 3LE Lyon 69007 UK France Phone: 44 191 374 2484 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 44 191 374 2456 Asia, Middle East, Coastal e-mail: [email protected] Ecology and Geomorphology Peat Charles Sheppard Anja Scheffers Department of Biological Sciences Instutut fur Geographie University of Warwick Universitat Essen Coventry CV4 7AL Universtatssr. 15 UK D-45117 Essen Phone: 44 1203 524975 Germany Fax: 44 1203 524619 Phone: 0049 201 1833358 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 0049 201 1832811 Coral Reef Coasts e-mail: [email protected] Europe, Coastal Geomorphology Douglas J. Sherman Department of Geography Gerhard Schellmann University of Southern California Department of Physical Geography and Los Angeles CA 90089-0663 Landscape Studies USA University of Bamberg Phone: 1 213 740 1123 Am Kranen 1, PO Box 15 49 Fax: 1 213 740 0056 D-96045 Bamberg e-mail: sherman @usc.edu Germany Dissipative Beaches Phone: ϩ49 0951 863 2380 North America, Coastal Geomorphology Fax: ϩ49 0951 863 1193 Reflective Beaches e-mail: [email protected] Andrew D. Short Geochronology Geography, Coastal Studies University of Sydney Maurice Schwartz Sydney NSW 2006 Department of Geology Australia Western Washington University Bellingham WA 98225 Phone: 61 2 9351 3625 USA Fax: 61 2 9351 3644 e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 360 650 3586 Carbonate Sandy Beaches Fax:1 360 650 7302 Sandy Coasts e-mail: [email protected] Wave Environments Tors Parmeshwar L. Shrestha David B. Scott Exponent Inc. Department of Earth Sciences 320 Goddard Way, Suite 200 Dalhousie University Irvine CA 92618 Halifax NS B3H 3J5 USA Canada e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 902 494 3604 Cohesive Sediment Transport Fax:902 494 3877 e-mail: [email protected] David P. Simpson Coastal Changes, Rapid Pacific International Engineering Sea-Level Indicators—Biological in 310 Waterfront Park Building Depositional Sequences 144 Railroad Ave. Distribution V. Semeniuk Edmonds WA 98020 V.C. Semeniuk Research Group USA 21 Glenmere Road e-mail: [email protected] Warwick WA 6024 Cross-Shore Variation of Grain Size on Beaches Australia Gravel Beaches Phone: 61 8 94473708 Fax:61 8 94473705 Rodman E. Snead e-mail: [email protected] Department of Geography Tidal Flats University of New Mexico Albuquerque NM 87131 Richard J. Seymour USA Scripps Institution of Oceanography Phone: 1 505 247 3105 University of California at San Diego Desert Coasts CONTRIBUTORS xxix

Gordon C. Staples Phone: 1 805 644 7188 RADARSAT-2 International Fax: 1 805 644 7390 13800 Commerce Parkway e-mail: [email protected] Richmond BC V6V 2J3 Sand Rights Canada William Streever Phone: 1 604 231 4950 BP Exploration (Alaska) Inc. Fax:1 604 231 4940 PO Box 196612 e-mail: [email protected] Anchorage, AL 99519-6612 RADARSAT-2 Phone: 1 907 564 4383 Wayne Stephenson Fax:1 907 564 5020 Department of Geography and Environmental Studies e-mail: [email protected] University of Melbourne Wetland Restoration Melbourne Melanie J. Stright Victoria 3010 US Department of the Interior Australia Minerals Management Service Shore Platforms 381 Elden St. (MS 4042) Herndon VA 20170 J. Court Stevenson USA Horn Point Laboratoty University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science Phone: 1 703 787 1736 PO Box 775 Fax: 1 703 787 1026 Cambridge MD 21613 e-mail: [email protected] USA Archaeological Site Location, Effect of Sea-Level Change Phone: 1 410 221 8442 William B. Stronge Fax:1 410 221 8490 Florida Atlantic University e-mail: [email protected] 777 Glades Rd. North America, Coastal Ecology PO Box 3091 Boca Raton FL 33431 Michael P. Stewart USA School of Spatial Sciences Phone: 1 561 297 2833 Curtin University of Technology Fax: 1 561 297 2850 Perth 6152 WA e-mail: [email protected] Australia Economic Value of Beaches Phone: 61 8 9266 7600 Fax:61 8 9266 2703 Tsuguo Sunamura e-mail: [email protected] Department of Earth and Space Sciences Geodesy Osaka University Osaka 560-0043 Japan Robert R. Stickney Texas Sea Grant College Program Phone: 81 6 6850 5799 2700 Earl Rudder Freeway, Suite 1800 Fax:81 6 6850 5480 College Station, TX 77845 e-mail: [email protected] USA Cliffs, Erosion Rates Cliffs, Lithology versus Erosion Rates Phone: 1 979 845 3854 Fax: 1 979 845 7525 Thomas A. Terich e-mail: [email protected] Center for Geography, MS9085 [email protected] Huxley College Aquaculture Western Washington University Bellingham WA 98225 Marcel J.F. Stive USA NCK/Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research Phone: 1 360 650 3286 Delft University of Technology Fax: 1 360 650 7702 PO Box 5048 e-mail: [email protected] Delft 2600 GA Driftwood The Netherlands Phone: 31 15 2783345 Joost H.J. Terwindt Fax: 31 15 2785124 Department of Physical Geography e-mail: [email protected] State University of Utrecht Artificial Islands Heidelberglaan 2 Postbus 80.115 3508 TC Utrecht Gregory W. Stone The Netherlands Coastal Studies Institute Louisiana State University Phone: 31 33 4618039 Baton Rouge LA 70803 Fax: 31 33 4618039 USA e-mail: [email protected] Polders Phone: 1 225 388 6188 Fax:1 225 388 2520 E. Robert Thieler e-mail: [email protected] US Geological Survey Meteorological Effects on Coasts Coastal and Marine Geology Program Nearshore Wave Measurement 384 Woods Hole Road Woods Hole MA 02543 Katherine Stone USA Meyers, Widders, Gibson, and Long, LLP Phone: 1 508 457 2350 5425 Everglades St., Suite 100 Fax: 1 508 457 2310 Ventura CA 93006 e-mail: [email protected] USA Photogrammetry xxx CONTRIBUTORS

B.G.Thom Phone: 11 713 973 3148 Faculty of Built Environment Fax: 11 713 973 3340 University of New South Wales e-mail: [email protected] Sydney, NSW, 2052 Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology and Australia Geomorphology Phone: 61 2 9337 1465 Fax:61 2 9337 1465 Sayeeda Wafar email: [email protected] Biological Oceanography Division Coastal Changes, Gradual National Institute of Oceanography Dona Paula, Goa 403 004 James G. Titus India Mail Code 2174 Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Geomorphology Washington DC 20460 H. Jesse Walker USA Department of Geography and Anthropology Phone: office: 202 260 7821 Louisiana State University home: 301 464 5423 Baton Rouge LA 70803-4105 beach: 609 494 9742 USA e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 1 225 578 6130 Greenhouse Effect and Global Warming Fax:1 225 578 4420 Sea-Level Rise, Effect e-mail: [email protected] Arctic, Coastal Geomorphology Monica M.P. Tognella-De-Rosa Beach Nourishment Universidade do Vale de Itajai History, Coastal Geomorphology Centro de Ciências Tecnológicas da Terra e do Mar Ice-Bordered Coasts Rua Uruguai, 458, Itajai,SC Brasil Martyn Waller e-mail: [email protected] School of Geography South America, Coastal Ecology Kingston University Penrhyn Road Alan S. Trenhaile Kingston-upon-Thames Geography Department Surrey KT1 2EE University of Windsor UK Windsor, Ontario N9B 3P4 Phone: 44 208 547 2000 Canada Fax: 44 208 547 7502 Phone: 519 253 4232 ext 2184 e-mail: [email protected] Fax: 519 973 7081 Bogs e-mail: [email protected] Beach Sediment Characteristics Ping Wang Cliffed Coasts Department of Geology, SCA 528 Mass Wasting University of South Florida Rock Coasts Processes 4202 E. Fowler Ave. Tampa FL 33620 David T. Tudor USA Bath Spa University College Phone: 1 813 974 9170 Newton Park Fax: 1 813 974 2654 Bath BA2 9BN e-mail: [email protected] UK Nearshore Sediment Transport Measurement e-mail: [email protected] Nearshore Wave Measurement Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter Tidal Flats, Open Ocean Coasts Shin Wang Robert J. Turner Department of Geography Division of Natural Sciences National Taiwan University Southampton College PO Box 23-175 239 Montauk Highway Taipei Southampton, NY 11968-4198 Taiwan, ROC Phone: 1 516 287 8400 Phone: 886 2 23627652 Fax: 1 516 287 8419 Fax: 886 2 23627652 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Beachrock Coastal Hoodoos Takaaki Uda DetlefA.Warnke Public Works Research Center Department of Geological Sciences Takara Bldg., California State University 1–6–4, Taito, Taito-ku Hayward CA 94542-3088 Japan 110–0016 USA Phone: 81 3–3835–3609 Phone: 1 510 885 4716 Fax:81 3–3835–3609 Fax:1 510 885 2526 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Pluvial Lake Shore Deposits Spits Niels West M. Wafar Department of Marine Affairs Biological Oceanography Division University of Rhode Island National Institute of Oceanography Kingston RI 02881-0817 Dona Paula, Goa 403 004 USA India Phone: 401 874 4046 CONTRIBUTORS xxxi

Fax: 401 874 2156 France e-mail: [email protected] Phone: 33 5 46458205 Beach Use and Behaviors Fax: 33 5 46458249 Cleaning Beaches e-mail: [email protected] Dean Whitman Tide Gauges Laboratory for Coastal Research Florida International University Alejandro Yáñez-Arancibia Miami FL 33199 Instituto de Ecologia A.C. USA Division de Recurso Naturales Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection Jefe Programa de Recursos Costeros and Ranging PO Box 63 Xalapa 91000 Patricia L. Wiberg Km 2.5 Antigua Carretera Xalapa-Coatepec Department of Environmental Sciences Xalapa University of Virginia Ver. Mexico Charlottesville VA 22903-4123 USA Phone: 52 28 421800 ext 3413 Fax: 52 28 187809 Phone: 1 804 924-7546 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Middle America, Coastal Ecology and Geomorphology Wave–Current Interaction

Allan T.Williams Prasanna Yennavar Applied Sciences Department Biological Oceanography Division University of Glamorgan National Institute of Oceanography Pontypridd Dona Paula, Goa 403 004 Mid Glamorgan India Wales Indian Ocean Islands, Coastal Ecology UK and Geomorphology Phone: 44 01656 783928 Fax: 44 91443 480558 e-mail: [email protected] Wyss W.-S. Yim Marine Debris—Onshore, Offshore, Seafloor Litter Department of Earth Sciences University of Hong Kong P.P. Wong Pokfulam Road Department of Geography Hong Kong SAR National University of Singapore China 10 Kent Ridge Crescent Phone: 852 2859 2829/2859 1084 Messages Singapore 119260 Fax:852 2517 6912 Phone: 65 874 3859 e-mail: [email protected] Fax:65 777 3091 Submerged Coasts e-mail: [email protected] Reclamation Tourism, Criteria for Coastal Sites Keqi Zhang Laboratory for Coastal Research Guy Woppelmann Florida International University Centre Littoral de Geophysique Miami FL 33199 Universite de La Rochelle USA Avenue Michel Crepeau Airborne Laser Terrain Mapping and Light Detection 17042 La Rochelle Cedex 1 and Ranging Foreword

As millions of people move toward the coastline, the rise in sea level is LIDAR among others (R. Thieler, Doug Inman, Keith Raney, and moving the coastline toward them. Anxious for a good view of the sea, Stephen Leatherman). property owners crowd the retreating beaches and governments seek the A global perspective is furnished in separate articles about the advice of coastal scientists and engineers to find a way to control the coastal geomorphology of each continent, including the Antarctic, erosion problem. As a consequence, the study of sea level change, the with companion articles on the ecology of the same coasts. A different greenhouse effect, the coastal processes and ways to respond to retreat- approach to the big picture is provided through articles on coastline ing coastlines have become paramount priorities. Coastal science has types such as tide- and wave-dominated (Miles Hayes), ice-bordered benefited tremendously. (Jess Walker),bay beaches (Karl Nordstrom),vegetated coasts (Denise For example, the search for sand used for beach nourishment, cur- Reed), muddy coasts (Terry Healy), chalk coasts (Vincent May), karst rently a favored erosion control approach, is pouring millions of dollars coasts (Roland Paskoff) and uplift coasts (Terry Healy).This small sam- into the hands of those who operate vibracores, side-scan sonar, and pling of authors is indicative of the care that editor Schwartz has taken shallow seismic devices. The applied science that is carried out to find to fill the contributor slots with the “right” people with appropriate sand is almost exactly the same as the preferred basic science approach specialties. to determine the recent history of shorefaces, coasts, and islands, and to Maurice Schwartz presents us with his second coastal encyclopedia. discern the processes that have shaped them. This combined need-to- The first one, The Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments know and funding bonanza are in significant part responsible for a leap (Hutchinson Ross, 1982) became the reference bible for coastal geologists in our comprehension of nearshore processes in the last two decades. and geomorphologists. At least it was for me. Not surprisingly, in this fast So, Maurice Schwartz’s enormous effort in bringing us this new moving specialty, it is now out of date. I believe this new encyclopedia Encyclopedia of Coastal Science is most timely. will prove to be equally important, but to a broader spectrum of coastal Specialty encyclopedias, especially one concerned with a fast moving specialists. science, such as this, provide a contemplative ledge, a place to pause The Encyclopedia of Coastal Science follows true to the title and cuts and consolidate recent accomplishments. Inclusion of almost all of the a broad swath. Titles are more sweeping. Individual entries are mostly seasoned practitioners of coastal earth science as contributors adds topical essays rather than the dictionary-like definitions of the earlier significantly to this volume’s usefulness and credibility as well as its encyclopedia. For example, instead of individual short definitions and potential as a point of consolidation for our science. descriptions of bulkheads, groins, jetties, seawalls, offshore breakwaters This volume is replete with essays on a great number of topics that and the like, Nick Kraus has contributed two entries: Shore Protection incorporate the most recent illations, judgments, and discoveries in Structures and Navigation Structures. The range of article topics is coastal studies. What are these great advances, especially those that have huge. Some of the outliers include coastal warfare, cleaning beaches, occurred in coastal science in the 20 years since the Schwartz-edited sand rights, oil spills, setbacks, polders, and tourism. Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments hit the book stores? I believe the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science will prove to be a price- This question, a perennial favorite in Ph.D. exams, will be answered less resource for both educators and researchers in the coastal sciences differently according to one’s subspecialty.My first choice is the push as well as for those who use science in managing our nearshore forward in understanding the shoreface processes, the all-important resources. I would even like to see it on the bookshelves of beach link between the subaerial beach and the continental shelf. The topic is cottages, although the volume is not intended for a lay audience. covered in at least half a dozen articles in the encyclopedia including This resource is perfect for those who need succinct and authoritative those by Ed Clifton, Miles Hayes, Robert Dean, Alan Niedoroda, and information on most aspects of coastal science. Victor Goldsmith. There are also articles on the major technological advances that haave fueled the advance of coastal science, including Orrin H. Pilkey photogrammetry,side-scan sonar, synthetic aperture radar systems, and Duke University Preface

Map measurements of the world’s coastline length have yielded a figure Though there have been many trials and tribulations during the four of 500,000 km. However, when all of the very real and intricate coastal to five years that it has taken to bring this volume to publication, there crenulations are considered, the actual length is probably closer to have also been moments of humor that lightened the load along the 1,000,000 km. Added to this is the fact that 40% of the 6,000,000,000 way. While explanations for late contributions ran rampant, none was people presently inhabiting the earth live within 100 km of a coastline. more acceptable than that from the contributor down-under who, while From these observations, it can be seen that coasts are a very major geo- working on a major topic, brought forth two “bubs” (a girl and a boy) morphic and social feature on the face of the planet. And for this rea- to add to an already large family. For sheer inventiveness to a contribu- son, scholars in a multitude of disciplines have long been studying the tor who did not want to repeat a previously published survey, that many facets of the zone where the land meets the sea. progressed around a continent in a clockwise fashion, there was your In this collected volume, authorities in many fields expound on certain editor’s suggestion that he simply proceed in a counter-clockwise direc- aspects of their expertise, not so much in a dictionary of terms sense as in a tion. In the end it came out only halfway there. Then too, probably the series of essays that may be broken down into such categories as: atmos- best single line in any entry contained here is the quote to the effect that phere and oceanography, ecology, engineering and technology, geomor- a certain coastal feature is “… rather like pornography—difficult to phology, and human activities related to the coasts (see Appendix 6: Topic define, but you know it when you see it!” That could only be topped by Categories). The reader may not completely agree with some of their views; correspondence from another down-under contributor who used wildly in fact, some of the authors do not agree entirely with each other. Perusing colorful expressions that can not even be repeated here. through professional journals in these fields would show the same variety of Of course, I am most appreciative to all of the very many people who opinions on a given topic. For that is the nature of science, holding forth on have been involved in this project. However, two individuals stand out a subject as interpreted by long and careful study of the evidence. What is most significantly. The first and foremost is the editor-in-chief of this then to be found here, between the covers of this volume, are 306 entries earth-science encyclopedia series, Rhodes Fairbridge, who has been my that contain a wealth of information on different aspects of the world’s teacher, mentor, and friend for the past 40 years. The second is Peter coast, which we all hold so dear. If there are any questions of omissions or Binfield, my editor at Kluwer Academic Publishers, who has guided me judgment, the fault then lies entirely with me, the editor. through this project with expertise, patience, and humor. To both of In a similar vein, one would expect the terminology of a science to these gentlemen, I offer my most profound gratitude. Thanks are also have universal acceptance; but, sadly, that is not the case. For example, due to Russ Burmester, Vicki Critchlow, Gene Hoerauf, Larry Palmer, the ubiquitous term “shoreline” can be employed in the historical Kevin Short, and Chris Sutton, at Western Washington University, for geomorphic sense of the line formed by the edge of the water against considerable technical support. the land as it rises and falls through tidal cycles or atmospheric changes; Sadly, media specialist Kevin Short, who worked his computer magic or as it has been defined by the US Coast and Geodetic Survey for on many graphics in the volume including the cover photo, passed away mapping purposes as the high-tide line, high-water line, or wet–dry suddenly in January of 2004 at the age of 44. Colleagues and friends alike boundary. In order for the term to mean the same thing wherever will miss Kevin and remember him for his kindness, humor, and creativity. it appears in this volume the geomorphic meaning has been adopted, or clarified where it has deviated from that. For further clarification of this dichotomy, the reader is referred to the entry titled Coasts, Coastlines, Maurice Schwartz Shores, and Shorelines.