Land of Stories

Castles and chateaux Contents Landštejn ...... 46 Lednice ...... 47 Castles Bečov nad Teplou ...... 2 Lipnice nad Sázavou ...... 50 Bezděz ...... 3 Litomyšl ...... 51 and chateaux Bítov ...... 4 Loket ...... 52 Blatná ...... 5 Manětín ...... 53 tastes and practically unlimited financial Boskovice ...... 6 Mělník ...... 54 the Czech Republic’s Bouzov ...... 7 Mikulov ...... 55 “family silver” resources of their bygone owners. Buchlov ...... 8 Milotice ...... 56 You will see a vast variety of collections Buchlovice ...... 9 Mnichovo Hradiště ...... 57 The most valuable things Czechs have and art works amassed with love Častolovice ...... 10 Náchod ...... 58 inherited from their ancestors and pride by generations of noble Červená Lhota ...... 11 Náměšť na Hané ...... 59 are historical monuments. Anyone families. You will climb towers affording Český Krumlov ...... 12 Náměšť nad Oslavou ...... 60 who visits the Czech Republic outstanding views of the surrounding Český Šternberk ...... 14 Nelahozeves ...... 61 for the first time is surprised countryside, lose yourself Cheb ...... 15 Nové Město nad Metují ...... 62 Dětenice ...... 16 Olomouc ...... 63 by their abundance and their state in the mysterious labyrinths Dobříš ...... 17 Opočno ...... 64 of preservation, how impressively they of subterranean corridors, and inhale the Duchcov ...... 18 Orlík ...... 65 are set in the surrounding landscape, fresh scent of ancient parks and lush, Frýdlant ...... 19 Pernštejn ...... 66 the splendid design of the buildings, perfectly groomed historical gardens. Hluboká nad Vltavou ...... 20 Ploskovice ...... 67 the variety of architectural styles, Horšovský Týn ...... 21 Prague – Prague Castle ...... 68 and their excellent operation. Visitors Czech castles and chateaux are not just Hořovice ...... 22 Prague – Troja Chateau ...... 70 are charmed by the special energy they sleepy museums where time has stood Hradec nad Moravicí ...... 23 Prague – Vyšehrad ...... 71 Hrádek u Nechanic ...... 24 Rabí ...... 72 radiate, the unique atmosphere which still. They also offer historical festivals Hukvaldy ...... 25 Ratibořice ...... 73 greets them as they step inside. and markets, night-time tours, Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou ...... 26 Rožmberk ...... 74 And those who are already familiar costumed guides, displays of trained Javorník – Jánský Vrch ...... 27 Slavkov (Austerlitz) ...... 75 with this from previous visits know that birds of prey, demonstrations of ancient Jindřichův Hradec ...... 28 Sychrov ...... 76 the multitude of places worth visiting, crafts, Kačina ...... 29 Špilberk (Brno) ...... 77 photographing and enthusiastically and tastings of traditional Czech Kámen ...... 30 Šternberk ...... 78 telling friends about is almost delicacies, as well as theatre and opera Karlova Koruna ...... 31 Švihov ...... 79 Karlštejn ...... 32 Telč ...... 80 inexhaustible – and the experience performances, fencing matches, concerts, Kašperk ...... 33 Točník and Žebrák ...... 82 is always powerful and wondrous … art festivals, exhibitions and workshops Klášterec nad Ohří ...... 34 Trosky ...... 83 – all announced in advance on their Kokořín ...... 35 Třeboň ...... 84 More than a millennium of Czech history individual websites. And if that is not Konopiště ...... 36 Valtice ...... 85 has produced some two thousand enough, you can experience a taste Kost ...... 37 Velhartice ...... 86 castles, chateaux, fortresses, and of castle life for yourself: Almost Krásný Dvůr ...... 38 Velké Březno ...... 87 their ruins. We invite you to come all of these monuments rent out their Kratochvíle ...... 39 Velké Losiny ...... 88 Kroměříž ...... 40 Vizovice ...... 89 explore their remarkable stories and most attractive historical rooms Křivoklát ...... 41 Vranov nad Dyjí ...... 90 secrets. for special occasions such as wedding Kuks ...... 42 Zákupy ...... 91 In this book we present a selection ceremonies. So please step inside … Kunětická hora ...... 43 Zvíkov ...... 92 of the most beautiful places that are Kunín ...... 44 Žďár nad Sázavou ...... 93 made accessible to the public by their Kynžvart ...... 45 Žleby ...... 94 current owners. Guides will be on hand to tell you all about the fascinating fates Hotel Restaurant UNESCO of individual castles and chateaux and their inhabitants over the centuries. Opening hours Special offer Suitable for children Let your imagination be swept away Hire of premises for cultural Chateau garden Weddings by these stories. You will tour sumptuous and social events Tours Chateau park interiors, furnished with the refined in occupied Czechoslovakia. They buried death become a prison for his 7-year-old Bečov the Reliquary of St. Maurus under Bezděz son Wenceslas (Václav) and his widowed the floor of the chapel in the hope that queen for many long months. nad Teplou they would one day return for it. Reason to visit In the 17th century the castle was turned If a foreign merchant had not appeared into a fortified monastery, and after Reason to visit some years later and started to The majestic ruin of this medieval its closure the castle deteriorated into negotiate with the Czechoslovak state castle is one of the dominating features a picturesque ruin. This chateau contains a unique over the purchase of an unspecified of the Czech landscape. It has been relic, which after the Crown Jewels valuable object, probably no one would a creative inspiration for many The most valuable building is is the second most valuable treasure have learned of its existence. This artists, including the composer Bedřich the chapel of the Royal Palace, a real belonging to the Czech Republic: tangled case, which top Czechoslovak Smetana, who used motifs from the local jewel of Gothic architecture. To admire A splendidly decorated golden box, criminologists worked to unravel, legend about hidden treasure in his opera distant views of “Mácha’s region” commissioned in the 13th century by was solved in 1985 and became the The Secret. The greatest Czech Romantic from an even greater height, climb the Belgian monastery of Benedictines inspiration for a detective novel. poet, Karel Hynek Mácha, made the massive 40-metre Great Tower, to hold the remains of St. John the castle famous in his epic poem May, which was the last refuge for local the Baptist and St. Maurus. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, a tale of tragic love. The nearby Mácha inhabitants in the event of a siege It is among most beautiful examples IV and X weekends and public holidays. Lake, named for the poet, is today of the castle. of the goldsmith’s art of the Middle a centre for water sport and recreation. Ages and is the only one of its kind V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, IV and X in Central Europe. Of historical interest weekends and public holidays. Of historical interest Ottokar II of Bohemia (Přemysl Otakar II), www.zamek-becov.cz the “Iron and Golden King”, certainly www.hrad-bezdez.eu The last owners of the chateau, Náměstí 5. května 13 could not have known that the sentry Státní hrad Bezděz the de Beauforts, were ordered 364 64 Bečov nad Teplou castle he built in the second half of 472 01 Doksy to leave the estate after 1945 because the 13th century as a residence for his of their collaboration with the Nazis occasional stays would soon after his

2 Castles and chateaux 3 style modifications in the 19th century, Jaroslav, a highly educated and skilled Bítov and it picturesquely complements the Blatná diplomat, was an envoy for his brother- local landscape of forests, rivers and in-law, carrying the famous Treaty Reason to visit hillsides, where sunshine and the crisp Reason to visit of the Establishment of Peace Moravian wine reign supreme. Throughout Christendom to the royal In the previous century, the castle served The characteristic white-and-red tower at courts of Europe. as the family residence of its last owner, The complicated story of one the entrance to the stone water castle was the somewhat eccentric Baron Haas, of the oldest royal castles and the built in the Late Middle Ages, during the The objects in the palace’s who built here what was at that time one lives of its inhabitants is told on four reign of the Lords of Rožmitál. They held interiors are predominantly from of the largest private zoos in Europe. diœerent tour circuits. In addition high state offices, they loved a luxurious the family collections of the current In addition to live animals, he also to the palace and the armoury with lifestyle, and they were inspired by the owners, the Hildprandts, who have loved his collections of taxidermied its singular exhibits, highlights sophisticated culture of the nobility possessed the chateau since domestic and exotic animals, include the castle prison, dungeon in western Europe. Reconstruction of the 18th century. Of special interest especially his collection of dogs of and torture chamber, equipped with the old palace into a magnificent three- is an exposition on the outstanding 51 different breeds, including the extinct replicas of torture devices which storey Gothic-Renaissance chateau 19th-century Czech physician Stable Pinscher. Today the collection is visitors can try out for themselves. was commissioned from the famous and naturalist Jan Evangelista listed in Guinness World Records as architect Benedikt Rejt, who worked in Purkyně, who as a young man worked the largest of its kind in the world. V–IX Tuesday - Sunday, IV and X the service of the Crown. in Blatná as an educator. weekends and public holidays. Of historical interest Of historical interest VI–IX Tuesday–Sunday, IV, V and X weekends. The fortified castle on a headland near This representational residence in Blatná the confluence of the Želetavka and www.hradbitov.cz was often at the centre of political events www.zamek-blatna.cz Dyje rivers in South Moravia guarded Státní hrad Bítov in the Bohemian Kingdom. Na Příkopech 320 the frontier of the Bohemian Kingdom 671 07 pošta Uherčice Jaroslav Lev of Rožmitál’s sister Johana 388 01 Blatná as early as the Middle Ages. Its current married King George of Poděbrady appearance is the result of Romantic- and became the queen of Bohemia.

4 Castles and chateaux 5 Tip: The chateau’s history is connected The furnishings in the chambers Boskovice with the nearby romantic ruin Bouzov of the Grandmaster of the Teutonic of the Boskovice Castle (above) Knights, the secret passageways, Reason to visit with its 26-metre well driven by Reason to visit and also a large stove and grill in a wooden treadle wheel. the castle kitchen suggest that In this charming chateau, which If filmmakers are looking for the ideal the virtuous knights did not deny is one of the purest examples of Empire The chateau’s sumptuous location for a fairy tale or a historical themselves the creature comforts architecture in Moravia, you will find ballroom was the setting for many story, Bouzov – with its battlements, of the time. From the walkway exceptional curiosities. For example, balls and festivities, which were bay windows, loopholes, gargoyles, of a 64-metre observation tower, you will see one of the three copper attended by the cream of society. drawbridges and trellises – is usually the whole castle area and the globes in the world, on which the In the Hall of Battles you will see at the top of the list. Its romantic beautiful forests of the Drahanské starry sky is depicted with heraldic paintings on buœalo hide with scenes medieval atmosphere came about Highlands open up before your eyes. emblems, or a noteworthy Rococo from the Austro- and Russo-Turkish during a reconstruction of the castle at children’s theatre, which was wars. the turn of the 20th century on the orders V–IX daily, IV and X weekends. presented to the owners of the chateau of the chateau’s owners at that time, the by the British Queen Victoria. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday. Teutonic Knights, who did not hesitate to pay more than 20 million guldens for Of historical interest Children will enjoy the set the work. of miniature furniture and the Rococo On the site of this grand aristocratic children’s theatre. Of historical interest residence there originally stood a Dominican monastery, which after The castle, founded in the 14th century, its closure served briefly for the www.zamekboskovice.cz is the likely birthplace of George www.hrad-bouzov.cz manufacture of dyes. It was rebuilt Hradní 6 of Poděbrady, who would grow Státní hrad Bouzov into its current form in the early 680 01 Boskovice up to become king of Bohemia. 783 25 Bouzov 8 19th century.

6 Castles and chateaux 7 the castle is a textbook of architectural the fate of Europe. Meetings were held Buchlov styles from the Early Middle Ages Buchlovice here about the annexation of Bosnia to the 19th century. and Herzegovina to the Austrian Reason to visit Reason to visit monarchy, which was the main reason In addition to the rare Egyptology for the outbreak of the First World Lovers of the mysterious will like collections, don’t overlook the rich This chateau nestled in a Baroque War. Count Leopold was a great the local legend about the Lady in natural-history collections with garden was a gift from the Earl Dětřich philanthropist: He built a modern public Black, Catherine, who, it is said, had her a number of curiosities. There is also of Petřvald to his noble-born Italian wife. hospital at the chateau. husband, the lord of the castle, murdered an extensive library founded in the So that she would feel comfortable in 1582. At night, her ghost sets off from late 16th century which contains more in her new home in Moravia, The luxurious rooms of a residence the gloomy chamber called the “Room than 10,000 volumes. The castle he had plans drawn up in the style surrounded by greenery reflect of the Dead” to roam the castle. tower, at an altitude of 545 metres of the so-called villa rustica, in which the elegant lifestyle of the aristocracy The truth, however, is that the impatient above sea level, provides an excellent the building is set in the open rural at the turn of the 20th century. Here nobleman died in battle. And the room, view of the gently undulating and landscape. The purest example you will discover the collecting tastes where accused poachers once were welcoming Slovácko (Moravian of an Italian Baroque villa in Central and family history of the owners. judged, now displays the castle’s most Slovakia) region. Europe, it amazed contemporaries valuable exhibit, an Egyptian mummy – and continues to do so today. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, in a cedar coffin from the 3rd century BC. IV, X weekends and public holidays IV and X weekends and public V, VI and IX Tuesday-Sunday, Of historical interest holidays. Of historical interest VII, VIII daily. The chateau gained international fame Construction of the royal fortress castle, at the beginning of the 20th century, which the sovereign endowed with when its owner was Leopold Berchtold, www.zamek-buchlovice.cz the power of jurisdiction and so-called who in 1912 became the foreign minister Státní zámek Buchlovice hunting rights, began in the 13th century. www.hrad-buchlov.cz of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. 687 08 Buchlovice Almost all of the owners had extensive Polesí 418 In this grand manor, leading politicians construction work done, therefore today 687 68 Buchlovice of the time made decisions about

8 Castles and chateaux 9 the Czech National Revival movement Tip: There is a boat rental in operation Častolovice in the 19th century and, among other Červená Lhota whenever the castle is open. things, significantly contributed to the Reason to visit establishment of the National Museum Reason to visit The reception, private and guest in Prague in 1818. rooms, modified in the early The original chateau, set in the foothills The unusual red colour distinguishes 20th century, are equipped with of the Orlické Mountains, was rebuilt several Twenty rooms furnished this picturesque aristocratic weekend authentic furniture and valuable times by the Šternberks (Sternbergs), in diœerent historical styles illustrate retreat from similar Renaissance works of art. who have owned it since the late 17th the changes in lifestyle over chateaux in the Czech Republic. century until the present, with the exception the centuries. If you look up at the The graceful silhouette of the chateau V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, of during the Nazi occupation and under original Renaissance coœered ceiling mirrored on the surface of the IV and X weekends. the communist regime. They assembled in the Knight’s Hall, an array of brightly surrounding water is most impressive an extraordinary art collection at the coloured Old Testament scenes from a boat ride around the chateau chateau, including original works by such unfolds before your eyes. pond. The fairy tale atmosphere of this important European painters as Karel place is often captured by film crews. Škréta, Lucas van Valckenborg and Johann IV–IX Tuesday–Sunday. Heinrich Schönfeld, and a series of portraits Of historical interest of Czech kings. The rarest paintings adorn The tour includes a children’s room the Wallpaper Room and the Smoking with an exhibition of toys from the 19th The summer palace, rebuilt in the Salon. century. In the chateau park, children 16th century from a Gothic fortress, can let oœ steam at the playground was a place for entertainment, Of historical interest or visit the small menagerie. celebration and relaxation. At the beginning of the 17th century www.zamek-cervenalhota.eu The Šternberks were lovers and patrons www.zamek-castolovice.cz it got a new red brick roof, Červená Lhota 1 of the arts and sciences. They built up the Masarykova 1, 517 50 Častolovice and its original name of “New” Lhota 378 21 Kardašova Řečice Castle Gallery collection over 300 years. was changed to “Red”; the same colour The leading figure of the family supported was later added to the façade.

10 Castles and chateaux 11 Of historical interest Two tour circuits oœer highlights IV–X Tuesday-Sunday Český Krumlov of the richly decorated interiors (castle museum Over three centuries, the powerful of the vast and labyrinthine complex. I–III and XI–XII Tuesday-Sunday, Reason to visit Rožmberk family influenced the fate The apex of the tour is the famous IV–X daily). and the architecture not just of its Masquerade Hall, on whose walls This extensive and artistically extremely residence but also of the town below the you’ll see, through paintings, mirrors Five-Petalled Rose Celebrations valuable palace complex is the second castle and almost all of South Bohemia, and optical illusions, a high-spirited (VI) – for three days the town returns largest in the Czech Republic after where they were the almost unchallenged carnival ball with Rococo ladies, to the time of Renaissance knights, Prague Castle. Its greatest heyday rulers. While their wealth was enormous, their gallant gentlemen and their noble ladies, magicians and beggars. was in the 16th century under it was not enough for both the costly servants. An extraordinary monument Chamber Music Festival (VI–VII), Vilém of Rožmberk (Rosenberg), Renaissance reconstruction and their of world importance is the Baroque Festival of Early Music (VII), a humanist, scholar and influential luxurious lifestyle, resulting in debts and castle theatre, complete with its Český Krumlov International Music politician in the court of Emperor stagnation at the chateau, which then historical equipment, and a beautifully Festival (VII-VIII), Festival of Baroque Rudolf II, and even a candidate changed hands several times. decorated six-storey Renaissance Art (IX–X). Theatrical performances for the Polish throne. His vast estate Only in the 18th century did it see a new tower oœering an unrepeatable view on a revolving stage in the chateau was transformed into a thriving business, flowering and revival of a rich social life of one of Europe’s most beautiful park (VI–IX). and, enchanted by the spirit under the creative Prince Josef Adam historical towns (a UNESCO World of Renaissance Italy, he rebuilt of Schwarzenberg. He undertook another Heritage Site). the ancestral castle into a beautiful wide-ranging reconstruction www.zamek-ceskykrumlov.eu residential chateau. At his court, not of the complex, which at that time could Zámek 59 only artists thrived but also swindlers compete with the pomp of the emperor’s 381 01 Český Krumlov and charlatans. residence in Vienna.

12 Castles and chateaux 13 around 1241, the castle has belonged After that time, the castle fell into Český Šternberk to the old aristocratic Šternberk Cheb decline, as no one wanted to live in the (Sternberg) family, the lords with place where such a brutal act took place. Reason to visit an eight-pointed golden star on their Reason to visit coat of arms. With a little luck, you may Tip: A municipal museum was This massive Gothic castle on a steep meet the current owner, who during the J. W. Goethe, who liked to stay in Cheb established in the medieval house rock above a bend in the Sázava River communist regime worked as a miner and also in neighbouring Mariánské on Cheb’s main square where Albrecht is one of the best-preserved fortified and a theatre stagehand. Lázně, judged the wondrous castle von Wallenstein was murdered. It has settlements in Bohemia. The builders tower of black volcanic rock to be the an extensive exposition dedicated of its original defence system Collecting has always been work of the ancient Romans. Although to the famous general. in the 14th century did not imagine one of the family’s interests. he was wrong, the tower is the oldest the invention of firearms, and its This is exemplified not only structure in the historical town. Today, only the old walls remind defences completely failed in 1467 when by the castle’s extensive displays, A Romanesque castle of the us of the opulent palace intended the castle was attacked by the artillery a highlight of which is a unique Palatinate type was built by Emperor for festive occasions in the presence troops of King George of Poděbrady. collection of 545 prints on the history Frederick I Barbarossa in the 12th of the sovereign. Uniquely preserved, The painful experience led to of the Thirty Years’ War, but also century. however, is a two-storey castle chapel, a restoration of the castle and a sophis- by a monument to Kašpar Šternberk, which is one of the most important ticated new defence strategy. a co-founder of the National Museum Of historical interest Romanesque monuments in the Czech The built-up fortifications with steep in Prague. Republic. walls and a protruding bastion are This occasional seat of sovereigns a highlight of the medieval art V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, was the site of important diplomatic I–III and XI, XII weekends, of fortification. IV, X weekends and public holidays. negotiations and political events of IV–VI and IX, X Tuesday–Sunday, European significance. The last of them VII and VIII daily. Of historical interest was a conspiracy and guileful murder in 1634 of generals loyal to the Supreme www.hrad-cheb.cz For eight centuries, and almost www.hradceskysternberk.cz Commander of the Austrian Imperial Trčky z Lípy 1 continuously since its establishment 257 27 Český Šternberk troops Albrecht von Wallenstein. 350 02 Cheb

14 Castles and chateaux 15 to whom it was bequeathed by the prominent Austrian politician Baron Wessenberk, who in 1873 shot himself because he had been accused of treason. In the period of communist rule, the chateau served as a juvenile detention centre.

Classic, fairy tale, and ghost tour circuits lead through the Baroque interiors with period furnishings and decorations. The Order of the Knights of Malta left behind its exceptional collection of weapons originating from the Thirty Years’ War, including unique ship canons from the battle for Rhodes in the 16th century. for pro-regime authors and other Dětenice VII–VIII daily, Dobříš prominent people. V–VI and IX Tuesday–Sunday, Reason to visit I–IV and X–XII weekends. Reason to visit Part of the chateau houses the exhibition of the town museum. This chateau in a romantic landscape Every Saturday throughout The attractive and ornate environment In addition to the history and examples at the edge of Bohemian Paradise the year ghost tours are held, of this Rococo chateau, surrounded of traditional local glove-making, so captured the heart of the Spanish during which devils, vampires, by a valuable garden with floral another attraction is a large collection Queen Maria Christina on her visits witches, ghosts and other creatures ornamentation, sculpted hedges of historical motorcycles made here in the 19th century that she wanted rollick in the chateau rooms. and statues, evokes the atmosphere in Czechoslovakia. to buy it. She was dissuaded only because Tours of the chateau, enlivened of Vienna’s Schönbrunn Palace. of the inflexibility of the Viennese court by fairy tales with songs and live Perhaps that is why it is so sought The so-called Writers’ Room in the strained relations between music, are held every Sunday after by filmmakers of fairy tales, recalls the times during the communist the Austrian and Spanish branches from June to September. by concert organizers and for weddings era when the family collections of the Habsburgs. At least the Spanish and private parties. of the old-new owners, the Colloredo- court received some of the renowned Mansfeld family, were inaccessible beer from the chateau brewery. Of historical interest to “mere mortals”. Today they are accessible and much admired Of historical interest The splendid Rococo residence from by the public. the 18th century, thoroughly reminiscent The turbulent fate of the nobility of the times, tastes and style of the VII–VIII daily, IX–VI Tuesday– in the Czech lands is reflected French King Louis XVI, was during Sunday. in the history of the chateau, which was the Second World War a favourite forcibly seized several times, sold often, www.zamekdetenice.cz of the Nazis, who expropriated it from www.zamekdobris.cz but also lost on the stock market. 507 24 Dětenice its aristocratic owners. For 50 years 263 01 Dobříš A distinct imprint on the building it then served as the “Home for Writers”, was left by the Knights of Malta, offering residencies and recreation

16 Castles and chateaux 17 Bach, Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, In new armoury you will find Duchcov Chopin, Schiller and Goethe. A social Frýdlant a thousand weapons, the oldest lustre was added by visits of the Prussian of which are from the 12th century Reason to visit and Austrian emperors and the Russian Reason to visit and the newest ones dating from czar. The 20th century brought a tragic the First World War. If the ageing Giacomo Casanova had fate for the chateau: Part of it fell victim The original castle, expanded in the not settled here to manage the extensive to coal mining, and the magnificent 16th century with a Renaissance chateau, IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. Duchcov Chateau library at the end of Baroque dome fresco of the hospital had has been open to the public since 1801 his tumultuous life, who knows whether to be transferred to a newly built pavilion and is the oldest castle museum he would have written his famous in the chateau park. in Central Europe. Architecturally, autobiography, which revealed his the chateau is a living textbook of artistic scandalous adventures in the royal courts In addition to the reception rooms styles. and in the bedroom. The hot-headed and the Wallenstein family gallery, Italian spent 13 years in cold Bohemia you can also visit the servants’ quarters Of historical interest and was not too fond of the country, even and, of course, there is a museum though he had his last love adventure dedicated to Giacomo Casanova. The ambitious European politician here. He died in Duchcov and is buried and military general Albrecht von here. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Wallenstein won his fabulous wealth IV and X weekends and public in the Thirty Years’ War, and his base Of historical interest holidays. was the prosperous Frýdlant estate, called Terra felix – a Latin expression The palatial seat of the powerful meaning Happy Land. Nonetheless, Wallenstein family was built by archi- www.zamek-duchcov.cz the chateau and its surroundings were www.zamek-frydlant.cz tects of great renown. Its prestige Náměstí Republiky 9 not spared the hardships of protracted Zámecká 4001 as a cultural centre in North Bohemia 419 01 Duchcov war. After Wallenstein was assassinated, 464 01 Frýdlant v Čechách grew with stays here by famous Swedish troops settled here. musicians and writers, including

18 Castles and chateaux 19 was occupied by the Gestapo and the family emigrated overseas. The princely residence came alive mainly during autumn hunting season, when it was visited by the cream of the European aristocracy.

Tip: The Neo-Gothic former riding school next to the castle contains an important art museum, which is named after the painter Mikoláš Aleš, a native of South Bohemia. A gem of the museum’s high-quality holdings is a renowned collection of Gothic art from South Bohemia and the Šumava region. The Hluboká Musical Summer, a chamber music festival with a long tradition, is held directly in the exhibition space (VI–VIII).

In terms of elegance and comfort, the interiors did not take a back seat to English and Scottish manors of the 19th century. Among the to a member of the Styrian noble family Hluboká requisite amenities were a private Horšovský Týn of Trauttmansdorff, who held chapel, its own theatre, and a library it for 300 years. nad Vltavou with about 12,000 volumes. Reason to visit The castle has some 140 suites, many The imperial diplomat Count Reason to visit of which are richly furnished with This typical Renaissance chateau Maximilian Trauttmansdorœ the Schwarzenberg family collections from the 16th century, which was the main organizer of the peace White brickwork, battlements, loopholes, and are accessible to the public. has remained almost unmodified, negotiations that led to the end towers and turrets, oriel and pointed- is one of the most accessible monuments of the Thirty Years’ War. In the castle arch windows, a mazelike floor plan VII–VIII daily, in the Czech Republic: In high season library are rare documents relating – all of this brings to mind the romantic I–VI and IX–XII Tuesday–Sunday. it offers visitors five different tour circuits to it and also a richly decorated goose rural atmosphere of the English kings with a total time of over five hours! quill with which he personally signed of Windsor. It was precisely on this the Peace of Westphalia in 1648 model that the entire Hluboká complex Of historical interest on behalf of the Habsburg monarchy. and the surrounding land was rebuilt. After a terrible fire in the medieval V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Of historical interest castle in the middle of the 16th century, IV, X weekends and public holidays. a comfortable chateau was built from Originally a royal sentry castle, it had www.zamek-hluboka.eu the ruins. The estate was confiscated from www.horsovsky-tyn.cz a succession of important owners. Bezručova 142 its owners, the famous Czech Lobkowicz Náměstí Republiky 1 The Schwarzenberg family lived here 373 41 Hluboká nad Vltavou family, because of their participation 346 01 Horšovský Týn for a full three hundred years before in an uprising against the Habsburgs. the Second World War, when the castle It was sold for a negligible sum

20 Castles and chateaux 21 governor Jaroslav Bořita of Martinic miraculously survived the defenestration at Prague Castle, however the owner of the Hořovice chateau, Jan Litvín of Říčany, who personally threw Bořita, did not fare so well. He not only lost Hořovice, which was confiscated and then acquired by none other than the Martinic family, but he also lost all of his other property. The event ushered in the Thirty Years’ War.

With what kind of toys and games did young aristocrats play? The answer is to be found in an extensive display in the chateau’s salons. Exhibits include old theatrical puppets and a panoramic theatre set piece.

V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, hosted many musical greats, Hořovice IV, X weekends. Hradec such as Beethoven, Paganini and Liszt. Reason to visit nad Moravicí Inside the comfortably furnished Shortly after the end of the Second Reason to visit residence you will find an exhibition World War, the nationalized chateau of historical carriages and hunting was plundered by the Red Army, which The White Chateau has a tumultuous weapons. There is also an English temporarily quartered here. After that, history as a strategic point in North park merging smoothly into the the dilapidated building was used Moravia near the frontier. open countryside with a view of the by all sorts of people until it had Many times it found itself at the centre Jeseníky Mountains. to be closed due to its precarious of wartime, diplomatic and cultural condition. For the past 25 years, events that were fateful not only for V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, it has been undergoing an incredible the Czech lands but also for Poland, IV, X, XII weekends. transformation back to its former glory. Hungary and Prussia. The once again beautifully furnished It acquired its current form as an elegant The prestigious music festival chambers are a testament to the history Classicist chateau in the 19th century. and international performance of the chateau. On the ground floor The Red Chateau was built in the style competition Beethoven’s Hradec is a unique exhibition of historic of an Old German medieval castle is held in the Great Hall of the Red musical machines and jukeboxes. as an annex to house facilities Chateau (VI). for the operation of the household. Of historical interest www.zamek-horovice.cz Of historical interest www.zamek-hradec.cz In the distant past, the Czechs had an Vrbnovská 22 Městečko 2 original method of solving political 268 01 Hořovice In addition to rulers, dignitaries 747 41 Hradec nad Moravicí disputes: unpopular officials were simply of European courts, and political thrown out the window. The cruel royal and social figures, the castle also

22 Castles and chateaux 23 furnishings. His fairy tale dream soon fire. The romantic ruins have been Hrádek evaporated: During the Austro-Prussian Hukvaldy a popular place for outings since War of 1866 the chateau became the 19th century. u Nechanic a military hospital, and after the Second Reason to visit World War it was confiscated From the courtyard at the core Reason to visit from the Harrachs. In Hukvaldy you will encounter of the castle you can access traces of the famous native son, the partially roofed palace, cellars, Although this chateau tucked away Knightly armour in the entrance the composer Leoš Janáček, at every dungeon, and former prison. in a forest park looks like an ancient hall, antique furniture, rare paintings step. His musical legacy is also connected The biggest problem for the castle English residence, it was built in the and gilded wallpaper from calf leather with the monumental castle ruin was always a shortage of water. mid-19th century and is one of the on the walls of the Golden Hall, on a steep hill in a beautiful old game A well dug in the 16th century youngest chateaux in the Czech the largest and most beautiful room park with deer and mouflons. to a depth of 150 metres reportedly Republic. Count František Arnošt in the chateau – all of this was skilfully It is said that he liked to sit at cost more than the construction of Harrach built it to fulfil a romantic used by the Viennese architect a lookout point along the castle’s of the castle itself. dream to revive his noble family’s Karl Fischer to create the impression former fortifications, where he drew ancient glory and to recall its knightly of a medieval residence. inspiration for many of his works. IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. past. He drew his inspiration on his trips In the forest below the castle there throughout England. IV and X weekends V–IX Tuesday– is even a statue recalling his most Sunday. famous opera, The Cunning Little Vixen. Of historical interest Of historical interest Even the furnishings of the chateau are meant to evoke chivalric deeds. www.hradekunechanic.cz One of the largest castles in the Count Harrach imported antiques Státní zámek Hrádek u Nechanic Czech Republic, it was founded www.janackovy-hukvaldy.cz from abroad, especially from Austria 503 15 Nechanice in the 13th century. It was never 739 46 Hukvaldy and Italy, and he even bought entire conquered, but 500 years later portals, ceilings and complete room it was completely destroyed by a major

24 Castles and chateaux 25 master Antonín Míča, who organized a a monumental Baroque chateau, Jaroměřice wealth of musical and theatrical events Javorník – which they used as a summer residence. at the chateau. In honour of their patron saint, nad Rokytnou Janský Vrch John the Baptist, they renamed Tip: You can taste quality it Janský Vrch (John’s Hill). Reason to visit Moravian wines from the local Reason to visit wine shop in the romantic garden An interesting highlight The well-travelled and educated or beneath the historical vaulting This chateau on a rocky hill above of the tour through the rich interiors art patron Jan Adam of Questenberk of the chateau cellar. the town was for many years is the largest collection of pipes decided in the late 17th century the centre of education and culture and smoking accessories on display to create a “small Versailles” The chateau’s interiors reflect for the northernmost tip of Moravia near in the Czech Republic. A separate tour out of an inherited residence. the artistic orientation of its owner. the Polish border. It also is noteworthy leads through the parts of the chateau Then he filled every corner of this An integral part of the representative for its advanced technical appointments: dedicated to the household’s day-to- monumental Baroque chateau area of the chateau are a theatre, already at the turn of the 19th century day operation. surrounded by a French garden a music and dance hall, a library it had running water, and in the years with music, which he also actively and a gallery. 1906–1932 the interiors and the main V–IX Tuesday–Sunday. performed. He accepted into service courtyard shone with gas chandeliers only those who could play a musical V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, and lamps. instrument or sing. IV and X weekends and public holidays. Of historical interest Of historical interest For 600 years the chateau The first Czech opera, The Foundation www.zamek-jaromerice.cz and its extensive grounds belonged www.janskyvrch.cz of the City of Jaroměřice, was created Náměstí Míru 1 to the bishopric of what is today Státní zámek at the chateau and had its debut here 675 51 Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou Wrocław, Poland (formerly Breslau). 790 70 Javorník in 1730. It was written by the famous The bishops and archbishops gradually Baroque composer and court band created from the medieval castle

26 Castles and chateaux 27 abandoned by its owners, the complex then fell into disrepair. The splendid garden music pavilion with brilliant acoustics, a pearl of Renaissance architecture, served as storage for timber, for hunted animals, and even as a cowshed. Only in the 20th century was the importance of the chateau fully appreciated, and a nearly 20-year reconstruction returned it to its former beauty.

Radical reconstruction based on Italian models was carried out under Adam II of Hradec. His name is carried by the most beautiful palace, which has exemplary Renaissance interiors. Legend has it that in the black kitchen of the original medieval castle the spectral White Lady used Tip: Romantics at heart will enjoy Jindřichův to cook sweet porridge for her Kačina the picnic baskets prepared subjects. According to a popular story, by the chateau’s café. A blanket Hradec her ghost appears in all the dominions Reason to visit can be spread anywhere in the park, of her ancestors. where you can spend undisturbed time Reason to visit The pure white beauty of this Empire- relaxing with good food and drink. IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. style castle, built in the 19th century Italian masters brought Mediterranean on an unusual floor plan in the shape In addition to the chateau’s lightness and grace from the cradle The popular Folk Rose summer of an archer’s bow, rises up against expositions, you will see exhibits of the Renaissance to the picturesque festival is held in the chateau complex the backdrop of another work of art – from the Museum of the Czech rolling countryside of South Bohemia, and in the town (VII). a naturally landscaped park. Countryside, such as 400 historical a landscape of quiet forests and ponds. ploughs and 140 historical tractors, The old castle fortress was turned into Of historical interest in parts of the interior and also outside. a magnificent chateau, with shaded arcades connecting it to the palace. The chateau of the noble Chotek family IV and X weekends and public An extensive complex of buildings, was, in its time, the paragon of a new- holiday, V–IX Tuesday–Sunday and courtyards and green spaces creates style aristocratic residence. It perfectly public holidays. a harmonious whole with represented the wealthy and politically the adjacent town, which is an influential family and showcased the urban conservation area. good taste of its owners, whose passions were culture, art and nature. The most Of historical interest beautiful parts of the chateau are the www.zamek-jindrichuvhradec.eu theatre and the library with a dome like A catastrophic fire in 1773 destroyed Dobrovského 1/I that of the Roman Pantheon. www.kacina.cz the city and a substantial part of the 377 01 Jindřichův Hradec Svatý Mikuláš, 284 01 Kutná Hora Renaissance interiors along with their art collections. Given a temporary roof and

28 Castles and chateaux 29 the direction of the non-Catholic The founder of the Octavian Kinský Kámen Bohemian King George of Poděbrady. Karlova Koruna breed was also a founder of the Great Pardubice cross-country steeplechase, Reason to visit An exposition on life at a noble Reason to visit still the most difficult and most residence at the turn of the prestigious horse race in continental Can one live in a tower, as in a fairy tale? 20th century blends very well The originality and genius of the Czech Europe. It is said that he loved his horses At Kámen Castle, inhabitants had with a collection of 46 motorcycles Baroque architect of Italian origin so much that he even had his favourite all the amenities: On the ground floor and bicycles produced in the Czech Jan Santini-Aichel, who designed ones brought to his deathbed. was a pantry and armoury, on the first lands around the same time. the plans for the castle, fortuitously floor were residential and reception met with the outstanding talent On a tour of the chateau, rooms. The stone walls were insulated V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, of another prominent architect, you will learn about the turbulent with wood panelling, the rooms were IV, X weekends and public holidays. František Maximilián Kaňka, history of the Kinský family heated by tiled stoves, and small arched who oversaw the construction work. in connection with the history windows offered stunning views The chateau, with an unusual floor plan of their horse-breeding activities. of the countryside. Of course there recalling a royal crown, was named was also a privy – a medieval toilet. Karlova Koruna (meaning “Charles’ VII,VIII Tuesday–Sunday, Crown”) by its owner, Count Kinský, IV–VI and IX,X weekends and public Of historical interest in honour of a visit by the Emperor holidays. Charles VI soon after his coronation The castle, solid as the rock as king of Bohemia. on which it was built in the Middle Ages (kámen means “stone”), Of historical interest was an important strategic point www.hradkamen.cz www.kinskycastles.com for Hussite troops during the religious Muzeum Vysočiny The Kinskýs were great connoisseurs Pražská 1/IV wars of the 15th century. Later, 394 13 Kámen 1 of horses, and at the end of the 503 51 Chlumec nad Cidlinou peace talks between the opposing 18th century they established sides were held here under an excellent stable for their own breed.

30 Castles and chateaux 31 and the decoration of the interior, even conferring with his stargazers. The castle’s appearance today, after a thorough reconstruction at the turn of the 20th century, is quite different from that of the original Gothic structure, and the architect Josef Mocker faulted the repairs for making the castle too beautiful and perfect. The most significant Bohemian royal castle, surrounded on three sides by high forested slopes, still retains its special magic today.

Tip: If you do not wish to climb the steep hill to the most-visited Czech monument, you can be taken by horse- drawn carriage from the village below the castle.

The Imperial Palace and the Marian Tower will leave you with no doubt that you are in the residence of the greatest Czech sovereign. Some and the Golden Trail trade route Karlštejn places, such as his bedroom and study Kašperk seriously is evidenced by the massive or his private chapel, evoke the strange fortifications of the castle. With Reason to visit feeling that Charles IV has remained Reason to visit the exception of oriels, the side towers personally present. were built without openings – in case The Bohemian King and Holy Roman To protect the gold-bearing Kašperské the castle should be bombarded with Emperor Charles IV could not have II and XI, XII weekends, III–XI Mountains and the newly built trade dangerous projectiles and hurled chosen a better place to keep holy relics Tuesday–Sunday and VII–VIII daily. routes linking the Czech Kingdom with weapons. and the Imperial Crown Jewels. Bavaria, the Czech King and Holy Roman He gave the royal treasures a resting Every year the costumed Royal Emperor Charles IV had a sentry castle The massive castle towers oœer place under the gilded dome Procession sets oœ with the coronation built close to the border. As a gesture vistas of the mysterious Šumava of the Chapel of the Holy Cross, jewels from Prague to Karlštejn Castle. of friendship, he plighted it to his loyal forests. which is covered in glass disks to create The historical celebration concludes and wise adviser Jan Očko of Vlašim, the the illusion of a starry sky. Like silent with a tournament for the title second archbishop of Prague and the first IV weekends, V–VI and IX, X witnesses, they watch over the panel of Bohemian Knight (VI). Bohemian cardinal. He even entrusted Tuesday–Sunday, VII and VIII daily, paintings of dozens of saints by Master him with the education of his young son, 28 XII–1 I daily. Theodoric, a leading representative the future sovereign Wenceslas of medieval European painting. (Václav) IV.

Of historical interest www.hradkarlstejn.cz Of historical interest www.kasperk.cz 267 18 Karlštejn 172 Žlíbek 55, 341 92 Kašperské Hory Charles IV personally supervised The fact that the sovereign took the completion of the imperial residence the protection of the region

32 Castles and chateaux 33 who had participated in the uprising Of historical interest Klášterec of the Czech aristocracy against Kokořín Habsburg rule. The Thirty Years’ War, After the Thirty Years’ War, nad Ohří however, affected them, too: Swedish Reason to visit the Austrian Emperor Ferdinand rated troops twice plundered and devastated the abandoned medieval residence Reason to visit the chateau. It required costly rebuilding, The castle, set in a picturesque as a “cursed castle” that was not worthy this time in the Baroque style. region of sandstone rocks, lakes of repair. It became a refuge for robber When at the end of the 18th century and half-forgotten villages, is located barons and highwaymen, who threatened the castle administrator J. N. Weber The way in which contemporary just 40 kilometres from Prague. the surrounding area. The romantic experimented with the kaolin that had tastes were reflected in the design When in the late 19th century it was 19th-century ruins were “discovered” just been discovered in the area, of porcelain products is evidenced bought by Prague businessman by young patriots, and many writers he could not have known that porcelain by a large exhibition devoted to the Václav Špaček, it had long been and artists have drawn inspiration here. from Klášterec would become famous development of Czech porcelain. an abandoned ruin. Under the super- throughout the world. His first primitive A walk in the park is enlivened by vision of four leading art historians, The castle walkways and massive creations were a far cry from the snow- the sculptures of Jan Broko‡, he thoroughly reconstructed it and made cylindrical tower oœer magnificent white, translucent porcelain produced such as his statues of the continents. it accessible to the public. In the valley views of the Kokořínsko Protected Asia. He overcame these setbacks Australia, however, is missing – it had below the castle he built a swimming Landscape Area. with sustained effort, and in 1794 not yet been discovered at the time. pool and tennis courts, thereby making he founded the Thun factory, named the Kokořínsko region a popular V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, for the owners of the chateau. It has been IIV–IX daily, X–III Friday–Sunday. recreation and tourist destination. IV, X weekends. in continuous operation since that time.

Of historical interest www.zamek-klasterec.cz Chomutovská 1 www.hrad-kokorin.cz The Renaissance chateau was acquired 431 51 Klášterec nad Ohří 277 23 Kokořín cheaply by the Thun family in 1621 after its confiscation from the previous owner,

34 Castles and chateaux 35 Of historical interest Kost In Czech terms, it is an unusual castle. Built in the late 13th century Reason to visit on the model of French castle fortresses, it was protected by seven massive towers, Kost Castle lies in an attractive landscape which formed a separate fortress, of forests and sandstone rocks, which and it had five gates and two because of its charm is rightly called drawbridges. Even though it was Bohemian Paradise. It stands on a low considered one of the strongest promontory above ponds whose dams in the Kingdom of Bohemia, it was looted were released in times of danger, by Swedish troops during the Thirty turning the castle it into a water fortress. Years’ War. In times when war threatened, the lord of the castle retreated with his family Franz Ferdinand d’Este was an avid to the top floor of the solidly built White hunter and a passionate art collector. Tower. He amassed everything he could with the motif of St. George – pipes, coins, Of historical interest weapons, swords, vessels, banners, tombstones, sculptures, paintings. At the time of the religious wars He wanted to outdo the king of the 15th century, the castle presented of England, who had the same hobby a problem for the invincible Hussite and to whom he liked to boast about leader Jan Žižka. It is said that he did his collection. His assassination not conquer the castle because its walls VII–VIII daily, IV and X Wednesday– Konopiště defeated this aim. were as hard as bone (kost in Czech), Sunday, V–VI and IX Tuesday–Sunday. and he withdrew disappointed. The truth Reason to visit A popular attraction with children is a bit different: The castle simply was Children can draw a picture – bears – have a long tradition at the overlooked by his troops because, unlike of the castle during a visit and hand In the romanticizing reconstruction chateau. They have reportedly been other medieval palaces, it does not stand it in at the cashier. If the owner of the palatial residence of the heir to kept here since the 18th century. atop a hill, but in the valley. of the castle likes the picture, the Austrian throne Franz Ferdinand the child will receive a diploma and d’Este, nothing was left to chance. 25–31 III daily, IV–X Tuesday – Tip: A 10-kilometre route leads the picture will be displayed in a place The chateau was equipped with all Sunday, XI weekends. from below Kost Castle through of honour in the castle and on its the creature comforts of the time – the picturesque Plakánek valley website. flushing toilets, a lift, central heating to Humprecht Castle near Sobotka. and electricity generated by its own hydroelectric plant. The archduke lived The exhibition presents the Kinský there happily family in the Czech lands, to whom with his family, at arm’s length from the well-run castle still belongs. the outside world. The idyll ended In the cellar you can visit a medieval with his assassination in Sarajevo torture chamber with illustrative in 1914, where he died along with www.zamek-konopiste.cz examples of “interrogation methods” www.kinskycastles.com his beloved wife. Konopiště 1 which reliably brought about Podkost 1–8 256 01 Benešov a confession. 507 45 Mladějov v Čechách

36 Castles and chateaux 37 The charm of the 18 accessible of productive ponds, and managed to fully Krásný Dvůr rooms in the chateau competes Kratochvíle fund the expensive lifestyle of his master. with a visit to its singular naturally The donated manor prospered so much Reason to visit landscaped park. Many beautiful Reason to visit that Vilém of Rožmberk realized moments were spent here that its location was absolutely ideal At the end of the 18th century, the first by J. W. Goethe, who set up Vilém of Rožmberk (Rosenberg), awash for the leisure of Renaissance society, and probably the biggest English park a makeshift study in one in wealth and good taste, had Italian and at great cost he reacquired it and built in the country was established at this of the pavilions. architects build for his and his friends’ his own villa. Baroque chateau. Count Černín was pleasure a charming water summer an avid botanist and he also travelled V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, palace for moments of fun and relaxation A colourful array of murals a lot. In Western Europe he became IV, X weekends and public holidays. (kratochvíle means “pastime”). There with hunting and religious scenes excited by a new method of bringing was probably no significant personality and gilded stucco shines in its full the natural landscape all the way Krásný Dvůr in the Czech lands, including Emperor splendour after extensive restoration up to buildings. Part of his conception late-summer concerts (IX). Rudolf II himself, who did not visit this work. The administration of the state- was also a series of romantic pavilions Renaissance gem. owned chateau is gradually returning modelled almost down to the last detail period furnishings to the chateau after the French palace Versailles. Of historical interest in accordance with the original purpose of the rooms. Of historical interest Jakub Krčín acquired a small fort along with some land near Netolice in 1569 V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, The history of the estate is linked as a gift for good service in administering IV, X weekends and public holidays. with the history of the Černín family, the assets of the Rožmberks. who owned the chateau up until www.krasny-dvur.cz With his admirable managerial skills www.zamek-kratochvile.eu the Second World War, when the Nazis Zámek č. 1 and his strictness towards the subjects Státní zámek Kratochvíle usurped it as a resort for the elites 439 72 Krásný Dvůr of the dominion in southern Bohemia, 384 11 Netolice of the Third Reich. Since 1945 it has he significantly improved economic been in the possession of the Czech state. conditions, including through the building

38 Castles and chateaux 39 Tip: Do not miss a visit to the vaulted The castle experienced many Kroměříž medieval Archbishop’s Cellars, where Křivoklát fires and subsequent reconstructions, you can sample sacramental wine that which were completed in the Reason to visit is lovingly made and decanted. Reason to visit 20th century. The only room with its original decorations is a Gothic The historical gardens, especially This grand palace is home Rising up from wooded hills is the high chapel with a richly carved altar. the Flower Garden, are the pride to a collection of Central European white cylindrical tower of this ancient Traces of the Czech kings and the of the chateau. The unique conception paintings from the 15th castle with extensive fortifications. splendour of their lifestyle, however, to link the world of plants and water with to the 18th century that is famous Due to its excellent location, are found at every turn. This is thanks art and architecture, together with its throughout Europe. Here you surrounded by forests full of game, it was in part to conservationists, who have unaltered appearance, earned it a place will find original works by Titian, popular with many Czech rulers. The successfully sought out and returned on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Van Dyck, Cranach the Elder castle halls were witness to much joyous to the castle historical collections and Dürer. The 84-metre tower feasting and drinking, but also to many which had been removed. Of historical interest of the chateau provides a beautiful serious political negotiations and fateful view of the historical heart diplomatic talks. II–III Saturday, IV–VI and IX–X From the Middle Ages, Kroměříž was of Kroměříž and the outlying area. Tuesday–Sunday, VII–VIII daily, the summer residence of the bishops Of historical interest XI weekends. of Olomouc and is a reflection of their V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, power and wealth. In the Baroque period, IV, X weekends only. The royal residence was built in the it was spoken of as the “Moravian 13th century as the foothold of the ruling Athens”. The magnificent buildings Přemyslid dynasty. Later it served were supplied with equally splendid as a state prison. For example, furniture, glass, porcelain, books and art www.zamek-kromeriz.cz Edward Kelley, a court alchemist www.krivoklat.cz works. Its permanent house musicians Sněmovní náměstí 1 of Emperor Rudolf II, spent three Křivoklát 47 surpassed in number and repertoire 767 01 Kroměříž years here for murdering an imperial 270 23 Křivoklát the court musicians of the Austrian official in a duel. emperor and the French king.

40 Castles and chateaux 41 Of historical interest The founder of the Kuks complex and other excellent buildings, libraries and art galleries, Count Špork was a large and contradictory personality of the Czech Baroque era who suffered all his life from a complex about the humble origins of his father. All the more, he tried to turn both slopes of the Elbe into a grand centre of elite aristocratic society, providing his guests with all kinds of amusements and comforts. His fame lasted a mere 40 years. Many of the buildings, including a chateau, are irretrievably gone, but the remarkable energy of the place remains.

Tip: The brilliant master of Baroque sculpture M. B. Braun is also the with the help of local people, built Kuks creator of an unusual set of statues Kunětická hora an ingenious system of and reliefs in the forest 3 kilometres fortifications in just two years’ time. Reason to visit to the west of Kuks. He sculpted Reason to visit biblical scenes directly into blocks Among the most interesting A fascinating set of Baroque of stone so that they would appear In the fertile plain of the Elbe objects in an exhibition sculptures decorates the stone terrace to be the work of nature. The forest valley in East Bohemia, the ruin of archaeological finds are dice in front of the monumental church and gallery is freely accessible along of a hilltop Gothic castle majestically that are more than 500 years old. adjacent monastery on a hill above the marked hiking trails. rises above the horizon. It was once And what would any self-respecting river Elbe. The Allegory of Virtues higher, but stone was excavated castle be without an exhibition and Vices and other groups of In addition to an unguided tour from the hill over the centuries, of medieval torture devices? But one sandstone sculptures are the work of the of the complex with the outdoor to be used, for example, thing you will not find anywhere else “Czech Michelangelo” – Matyáš Bernard sculpture gallery, you can visit the in building the nearby city of Pardubice. is the executioner’s price list, Braun, who created them in an incredibly abbey church and its crypt with Finally, the quarry collapsed and took from which it is evident that short amount of time for Count František the tomb of Count Špork, the interiors part of the castle complex with it. the executioner earned a decent Antonín Špork. A sharp contrast to the of the Baroque hospital with An extensive reconstruction sum for practising his profession. humble work of the Brothers of Charity a pharmacy, and the unique exhibition in the 20th century was organized in the monastery hospital for the poor of the Czech Pharmaceutical by the Museum Association in Pardubice was his magnificent life of luxury, balls, Museum. according to plans by the outstanding IV and X weekends, V–IX Tuesday– theatre, hunting and other pastimes architect Dušan Jurkovič. Sunday. at the sumptuous spa residence on the VII–VIII daily, opposite slope. The direct view from IV, VI and IX, X Tuesday–Sunday, Of historical interest the count’s bedroom of the eternal light flickering on his ancestral tomb was a www.hospital-kuks.cz The castle became very famous during www.hrad-kunetickahora.cz reminder that all worldly pleasures come Hospital Kuks, 544 43 Kuks the religious wars of the 15th century. 533 52 Staré Hradiště to an end. It was seized by the acclaimed Hussite commander Diviš Bořek, who,

42 Castles and chateaux 43 Of historical interest both parties: The prince built a luxury Kunín Kynžvart residence corresponding to his position This once enlightened centre and still was able to buy jewellery, coins Reason to visit of education and culture was plundered Reason to visit and art, while the Rothschild family was at the end of the Second World War by raised to the rank of nobility for their One of the most valuable Baroque the Soviet Army. Soldiers rode horses Kynžvart Chateau with its unique service. palaces in northern Moravia and Silesia, through the chateau interiors, they used collections is among the most it experienced its heyday at the turn furniture and books as heating fuel, and important monuments in Europe. With An avid collector, Metternich built of the 19th century under Marie they amused themselves by cutting rare help from the European Union, it was up at the chateau his unrivalled cabinet Walburga (née Harrachová), Countess paintings to ribbons. It was dealt reopened to the public in 2000 after a of curiosities, which is one of the oldest of Truchsess-Waldburg-Zeil. The the mercy blow in the communist era. quarter-century, and gradually the rare publicly accessible museums in Europe. beautiful and intelligent countess had In 1999 the dilapidated chateau became manuscripts from the library a tragic fate: Three of her children died the property of the town of Kunín, which of Chancellor Metternich are being V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, here and her husband left her, taking set out to rescue this Baroque pearl. digitalized. IV, X weekends and public holidays. their last son. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, she managed to bring In addition to tours of the chateau Of historical interest happiness to hundreds of children classrooms, it is also worth making of different social strata and faiths. a trip up to the chateau loft to see a Having lived most of his life At the chateau she built and co-funded unique system of Baroque chimneys. in the Czech lands, the unpopular an educational and instructional institute and feared Austrian state chancellor that was one of the most modern V–IX Tuesday-Sunday. IV and X Prince Metternich devoted loving in Europe in its day. weekends and public holidays. attention to his chateau in the West Bohemia spa region. For the extensive www.zamek-kynzvart.eu www.zamek.kunin.cz renovation of the dilapidated residence Zámek Kynžvart Zámek Kunín 1, 742 53 Kunín he even borrowed from the Rothschild 354 91 Lázně Kynžvart bankers the breathtaking sum of 900,000 guldens. The loan benefitted

44 Castles and chateaux 45 and ultimately led to a personal duel Four castle tour circuits oœer Landštejn between irreconcilable opponents, Lednice an idea of the social and private lives in which Vilém of Landštejn was mortally of the aristocracy across the centuries. Reason to visit wounded. The route was diverted, Reason to visit A unique feature is a beautiful park and the castle lost its importance. called the “Garden of Europe” This hulking royal castle set in the This chateau and its French garden with many uncommon trees, ponds unspoilt countryside of Bohemia’s most Thanks to extensive archaeological with a unique greenhouse, along with with rare nesting water birds, southerly tip, which because of its harsh research and display of the findings, a vast park set in a loosely modified and a range of interesting small climate is called “Czech Canada”, is one you can get an idea of the luxurious landscape extending all the way to the structures, such as a 60-metre Turkish of the most important Romanesque lives of the castle’s inhabitants in the Valtice Chateau, is one of the high points minaret, a lookout point called monuments in Central Europe. 13th and 14th centuries. They were of European High Romanticism. the Temple of the Sun God Apollo, It was built in the 13th century to protect among the period’s cream of society and an artificial ruin called John’s an important trade route and and led a sumptuous existence, which Of historical interest Castle, all of which the owners the border between the Czech lands and they made more pleasant with luxury hoped would enrich the seemingly Austria. Although all that remains of utility objects, artistically crafted Since the Early Middle Ages, generations unattractive landscape. it is a monumental ruin, its austere artefacts, and the technological of the Liechtenstein family acquired architecture, secondary to its defensive conveniences of the time. and developed expanses of land II–IV, X–XII weekends, V, VI and IX function, still elicits admiration. extending across both sides of the Tuesday–Sunday, VII–VIII daily. IV, X weekends, V, VII, VIII – daily, present Czech–Austrian border. Of historical interest VI and IX Tuesday–Sunday. In the 19th century, Prince Alois II decided that the chateau in Lednice The overland trade route brought great would be more appropriate than wealth to the owners of the castle. www.hrad-landstejn.eu sultry Vienna for summer gatherings, www.zamek-lednice.com Its course was the cause of constant Státní hrad Landštejn celebrations and balls for the European Zámek 1 conflict with equally powerful 378 81 Slavonice aristocracy, and he had it ostentatiously 691 44 Lednice neighbours, the Lords of Hradec. rebuilt in the spirit of the English The conflict erupted into a regular war, Gothic Revival.

46 Castles and chateaux 47 TheThe oornaternnate mmansionsansions ooff ttheh nobles often came to life with magni icent balls and mes- merising theatrical spectacles. Come see these luxurious chateaus that are part of the unique European heritage.

Live the Baroque through all your senses. Come to the Czech Republic and discover the unique beauty of the Czech Baroque. Valtice www.czechbaroque.com 3 hours from Prague for half a century. After the First World War, the Czechoslovak Hiking Club purchased it for 100 crowns, and its gradual recovery continues till the present.

Tip: Lipnice is inextricably linked with the name of Jaroslav Hašek, who in a house below the castle (now a museum) and in the pub U České koruny (At the Czech Crown) wrote most of his world-famous novel The Good Soldier Švejk. The writer is also buried here. Every summer a festival of humour and satire called Hašek’s Lipnice takes place in a natural amphitheatre (VII).

An unguided tour of the monu- Two tour circuits include Lipnice mental and rugged medieval castle Litomyšl the representational rooms with with singular views of the surrounding the Baroque chateau theatre nad Sázavou area is complemented by a visit Reason to visit and the aristocratic residential rooms to the extensive maze of castle cellars. with the possibility to gaze out from Reason to visit This arcaded chateau from the 55-metre tower and explore V–VIII Tuesday–Sunday, the 16th century is one of the most the chateau cellars. The acoustically Seven centuries of Czech history are IV, IX and X weekends and public important Renaissance monuments superb courtyard with a unique written on the walls of one of the holidays. north of the Alps. You can stand retractable roof comes alive with biggest Czech aristocratic castles. for hours in front of the facades period music, a reminder that every Starting in the 14th century, this castle and gables in the shape of swallow tails year a first-rate music festival along on a rocky ridge between two hills looking for duplicate designs among with related exhibitions and other withstood incursions and, like a sentry, the hundreds of sgraffito “love letters” events takes place at the chateau watched over the surrounding silver carved into the plaster – you won’t and in the picturesque town around it. mines and the trade routes lacing across find any. the region around the Sázava River V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, on the border between the Kingdom Of historical interest IV and X weekends and public of Bohemia and the Margraviate holidays. of Moravia. The chateau also has a French garden, an English park and many outbuildings, International opera festival Of historical interest including its own brewery. In 1824, Smetana’s Litomyšl (VI–VII). a great celebration took place there In 1869, the entire castle and the www.hrad-lipnice.eu and beer flowed freely. The brewer’s www.zamek-litomysl.cz settlement below it was devastated Státní hrad 11th child had just been born – a son Jiráskova 93 by a catastrophic fire, which was watched 582 32 Lipnice nad Sázavou at last. His name was Bedřich 570 01 Litomyšl with horror by the whole region. Smetana and he grew up to be a great The burnt ruin remained abandoned composer.

50 Castles and chateaux 51 old, he was separated from his mother, when the local gentry sent a young Loket whom he never saw again. Aristocrats Manětín stone mason to Prague to learn from were held in the prison here many the famous Jan Brokoff. Reason to visit times throughout history, but from Reason to visit the 18th century until 1949 the castle A tour presents life at the castle The Czech name of the royal castle served as an ordinary county jail. This chateau harmonizes with an under the Lažanský family, particularly and the eponymous town below unobtrusive little town into a exceptional Marie Gabriela, who had an unusual it dates to the Early Middle The most impressive part whole, nicknamed the “Baroque pearl group of 13 paintings made of her Ages, thanks to a graceful meander of the tour are places where torture of West Bohemia”. After a devastating servants. in the Ohře (Eger) river recalling the was practised. In the cells of the four- fire in the early 18th century, Count bend of a human arm (loket means storey former prison there are moving Lažanský invited the leading architects V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, “elbow”). The legendary King Charles IV life-sized figures on which various of the Czech High Baroque to completely IV and X weekends. liked to stay here and would alternate methods of torture are demonstrated restore his residence here. his state duties with hunting in his game with a heart-wrenching background reserves. It is said that while on a hunt soundtrack. Of historical interest his retinue discovered a hot spring which healed the king’s ailing leg. At the site I–XII daily. Manětín owes its singular atmosphere of the miraculous spring he founded to the sculptures scattered throughout the town of Teplé lázně near Loket – Medieval Festival (VIII). the town and even lining the main road today’s Karlovy Vary. to Plzeň (Pilsen). Stone statues of saints, atlantids, and allegories of the elements Of historical interest and human qualities look down from www.hradloket.cz their pedestals at the chateau, in the www.zamek-manetin.cz Charles IV loved Loket, even though Zámecká 67 cemetery, in the middle of fountains; Zámek 1 his royal father had him imprisoned here 357 33 Loket they gaze up from the terrace into 331 62 Manětín with his mother for several months the chateau’s windows. This tradition as a young boy. When he was 3 years was started in the late 18th century,

52 Castles and chateaux 53 families, and since the 18th century it has belonged to one of the oldest surviving Czech aristocratic families – the Lobkowicz family.

The high point of the accessible ceremonial and residential rooms of the Early Baroque chateau is the Great Hall with its unique collection of 17th-century maps of all major European cities along with illustrations of the places. They are a testament to the excellent work of the cartographers, graphic artists and printers of that time.

I–XII daily.

The origins of winemaking it was not long before it was sensitively Mělník in Bohemia date to the 10th century, Mikulov restored and its interiors adapted when Princess Ludmila established to house a regional museum. Reason to visit the first vineyard in Mělník. The current Reason to visit owner renewed the production The museum expositions present A visit to this castle with its spectacular of wine and oœers a rich selection The town of Mikulov is located in the not only the local winemaking tradition view of the confluence of the Elbe in the chateau cellars – the most heart of South Moravia’s winemaking but also the history of the chateau and Vltava rivers below the ancient famous of which is Ludmila, whose region, in the beautiful Protected and the noble Dietrichstein family. vineyards and the sacred mountain Říp distinctive bottle shape dates Landscape Area of Pálava. Besides visits There are also archaeology displays on the horizon is like a trip to the roots to the time of the great medieval to local and family wine cellars and and seasonal short-term exhibitions. of Czech history. Two legendary Slavic monarch Charles IV. tastings at wineries and wine shops, families, the Pšovans and the Čechs also worth a stop is the historical chateau V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, (Czechs), were united in a princely cellar with an exhibition on traditional IV, X, XI weekends. marriage here. Princess Ludmila, winemaking. A richly decorated giant the first Czech saint, with her husband, Renaissance wine cask able to hold Since 1994, one of the highest- Prince Bořivoj, then brought Christianity 101,400 litres and weighing 26.1 tonnes quality collections of contemporary to the Czech lands and founded is the largest in the Czech Republic. art in the Czech Republic has been the ruling Přemyslid dynasty. forming in the chateau’s “Workshop” Of historical interest as the result of the annual summer Of historical interest art symposia held here. This Baroque chateau towering high From the Early Middle Ages, the castle above the town became the victim was inhabited by the widows of Czech www.lobkowicz-melnik.cz of fateful fires. Most recently, it burned www.rmm.cz kings and princes, and during the reign Svatováclavská 19/16 to the ground a few days before Zámek 1 of Emperor Charles IV the town became 276 01 Mělník the end of the Second World War, 692 15 Mikulov part of the dowry of Czech queens. Later as the German Army was retreating. the chateau was owned by various noble Thanks to an initiative by local residents,

54 Castles and chateaux 55 Mnichovo Hradiště

Reason to visit In the western spur of the beautiful countryside known as Bohemian Paradise, the Wallenstein family built a luxurious residence exactly corresponding to the family motto: “In spite of envy!” (Invit invidia!).

Of historical interest The chateau’s founder, the prominent Protestant politician, writer and patriot Václav Budovec, was executed in in the sumptuous castle stables. 1621 as one of the main leaders of the V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Milotice Portraits of his 32 most precious Bohemian uprising against the emperor. IV and X weekends and public holidays. stallions are displayed at the chateau. His confiscated chateau along with Reason to visit the entire estate was awarded to the Special Saturday backstage tours A tour of the interiors with period emperor’s military leader Albrecht von of the historical chateau theatre from This pearl on a string of Baroque furnishings, precisely recreated Wallenstein, becoming part of his vast the 18th century (V–IX). chateaux in Moravia is located amidst on the basis of contemporary and ever-growing holdings. A few years fertile vineyards and wine cellars photographs and recollections later, his life also came to a premature Sunday tours for children by in the Slovácko (Moravian Slovakia) of living eyewitnesses, oœers insight end when he was killed by assassins to a guide in period costume and with region along the Moravian wine trail. into the lifestyle of the last owners stop his plans to top off his stellar career a fairy tale about enchanted knights It acquired its current appearance, of the chateau, the German family with coronation as king of Bohemia. (VII–VIII). including a French Baroque garden, Seilern Aspang. His body, after many transfers, was laid a pheasantry, an orangery, a riding to rest 150 years after his death in the school and stables, in the 18th century V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, St. Anne Chapel near the chateau. under the Serényi family, after the old IV and X weekends and public residence was twice ravaged by foreign holidays. Several circuits through the rich marauders. interiors of the Baroque chateau A sales gallery of wine take visitors back to the aristocratic Of historical interest and a wine bar. lifestyle of the 18th century. At that time 22,000 volumes of books were moved Count Serényi, whose origins were here from another chateau belonging Hungarian, spent most of his time to the powerful Wallensteins, Duchcov, at the imperial court in Vienna, www.zamekmilotice.cz where the ageing lothario and diplomat- www.mnichovo-hradiste.cz but he often invited select members Zámecká 1 machinator Giacomo Casanova lived Státní zámek of Viennese society to his Milotice estate, 696 05 Milotice in exile, managing its library until 295 01 Mnichovo Hradiště particularly to show off his singular his death. collection of noble thoroughbred horses

56 Castles and chateaux 57 Of historical interest Albrecht von Wallenstein’s mother came from the Smiřický family, the longtime owners of the Náchod estate. In the 17th century, they owned the greatest area of land in the Bohemian Kingdom, including dozens of castles and towns. However, the emperor confiscated the property from the last heiress, who had supported the uprising of the Czech nobility in 1620. It was soon also confiscated from the new owner, Adam Erdman Trčka, Albrecht’s brother-in-law and confidant, who was assassinated together with the general in 1634 in Cheb to scuttle the so-called Wallenstein conspiracy.

The chateau oœers six diœerent in the French style in 1916 from its last Náchod tour routes through its beautifully Náměšť na Hané aristocratic owner, Count Kinský. decorated interiors. The newest circuit It cost him 2.3 million Austro-Hungarian Reason to visit features a unique collection of orders Reason to visit kronen plus other major investments of merit and decorations, most notably in the modernization of the residence When the Italian general Ottavio jewels on grand cordons and order The splendid carriage of the Olomouc intended to increase the property’s value. Piccolomini received this chateau stars from the old chateau vault. archbishop had a star turn in Miloš The chateau, approached from four sides and the extensive surrounding estate Forman’s film Amadeus, but it is not by alleys of centuries-old linden trees, in 1634 as a gift from the emperor V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, VII–VIII the only remarkable one in the chateau’s was lost by the family a few weeks after for his part in dispatching General daily, IV and X weekends and public collection of historical carriages. the end of the Second World War. It was Albrecht von Wallenstein, he was only holidays. Particularly noteworthy are three one of the first seizures under the decrees 35 years old. However, he already had one-of-a-kind richly gilded coaches used ordered by Czechoslovak President behind him distinguished military Whoever is not amused for ceremonial occasions. Their velvet, Edvard Beneš to confiscate the property service in the Thirty Years’ War. by the bears Dáša and Ludvík gold-embroidered seats are filled with of ethnic Germans. It is not surprising, therefore, that in the moat can explore the unique eiderdown and the curtains the first alteration to his new residence collection of historical toys are sewn from precious brocade. Part of one of the tours is an was to modernize the fortifications. in the Piccolomini exposition. The total length of the carriage with exhibition of more than 50 historical In the 150 years that the Piccolomini a team of six thoroughbred horses was prams. family reigned over the dominion the up to 15 metres, with the biggest chateau acquired its current essentially of the carriages measuring more V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Baroque and Rococo appearance. than 3.5 metres in height and weighing IV and X weekends and public holidays. over two tonnes. www.zamek-nachod.cz www.zamek.namestnahane.cz Zámek 1282 Of historical interest Hrad 1 547 01 Náchod 783 44 Náměšť na Hané The iron wholesaler František Otáhal bought the manor with a chateau

58 Castles and chateaux 59 the Žerotín family. The cream of the Moravian aristocracy gathered here to be entertained and to further their political and family ambitions. At that time Moravia was a land of prosperity, religious freedom and tolerance. The Protestant Unity of the Brethren had a printing press here, which in 1578 was transferred to nearby Kralice, where one of the most valuable early works of literature in Czech originated – the Kralice Bible.

A highlight of the tour is a renowned collection of 24 large historical tapestries from the Renaissance to the 19th century.

V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Tip: The famous composer Antonín Náměšť IV, X weekends and public holidays. Nelahozeves Dvořák was born in Nelahozeves. There is a museum located at his nad Oslavou The international multigenre Reason to visit family’s home, and the chateau hosts summer culture festival Folk Holidays a series of concerts of classical, Reason to visit (VII), concerts at the chateau. The chateau holds a significant part jazz and alternative music from of the Lobkowicz collections, which spring till autumn. The chateau rose to fame in the late are among the oldest, largest and best- 18th century as an important centre preserved private collections of The view into the aristocratic of musical life in Central Europe. art and architecture in the Czech interiors of the Lobkowicz family The large chateau band was made Republic. illustrates how an old and influential up of teachers and folk musicians from noble family lived in one of their the area, but mainly of the Haugwitz Of historical interest eminent chateaux in the countryside. family’s servants – anyone who could Hunting was the main entertainment not play an instrument well was The original fortress and also later of the autumn months, which is shown dismissed. The repertoire and the the Renaissance chateau built by trophies of the chase, a collection artistic quality were excellent, and they in the Italian style by Italian artists of firearms and stag horn furniture. played as many as three times a week. frequently changed hands, and no Famous composers and musicians were owner stayed here for long. From IV–X Tuesday-Sunday, often guests at the chateau. The musical the 17th century, the palatial residence XI–III Saturday. tradition continues today. was used only as offices and for storage, and it gradually deteriorated. Of historical interest www.zamek-namest.cz An active new chapter began in the late www.lobkowiczevents.cz Zámek 1 20th century, when the chateau was Zámek Lobkowiczů The rebuilding of the no-longer-suitable 675 71 Náměšť nad Oslavou restituted to the Lobkowicz family, 277 51 Nelahozeves castle into a large Renaissance chateau which opened it to the public. in the 16th century was carried out under

60 Castles and chateaux 61 of Albrecht von Wallenstein and other played out, which has yet to be solved: The Nové Město Czech nobles accused of conspiring Olomouc murder of the 16-year-old King Wenceslas against the emperor. III, who was resting here before heading nad Metují Reason to visit to Poland on a military campaign, has The modernized historical never been fully understood. It meant Reason to visit interiors, both the representational The importance for Czech history the definitive end of the only Czech royal rooms and also the private residential of the Přemyslid castle in Olomouc dynasty, the Přemyslids. Thirty members At the beginning of the 20th century, rooms of the industrialist’s family, is comparable only with that of Prague of the dynasty ruled for more than 400 a wealthy owner of a textile factory, were boldly decorated by leading Castle. The remnant of the 12th-century years. The castle was then left to the clergy. J. Bartoň, bought this dilapidated Czech artists in the period’s prevailing Bishop’s Palace with its magnificent Baroque chateau to become his future styles of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, stone windows is considered to be The permanent exhibition family home. The renowned architects Cubism and Functionalism. one of the most significant monuments of the Archdiocese Museum presents Dušan Jurkovič and Pavel Janák of Romanesque residential art treasures from the 12th to the converted it into a modern residence, V and VI, IX Tuesday–Sunday, architecture in Europe. It stands in stark 18th century – one of the best Central equipped with all the amenities of the VII and VIII daily, IV, X weekends contrast to the ultramodern reconstruction European collections of old paintings time, such as running water, central and public holidays. of the entire complex into an attractive art – along with objects from the vault of heating, electricity, a telephone line, and museum, which has won many prestigious the Olomouc archbishops. The number a passenger lift and dumbwaiter. awards for the young architects who of items and their well-organized designed it. display makes this the second most Of historical interest important Czech art institution after Of historical interest the National Gallery in Prague. In the 17th century, the chateau with the entire estate was granted to the Scottish www.zameknm.cz Before he became the first Czech king, I–XII Tuesday–Sunday. sergeant Walter Leslie, who was elevated Husovo náměstí 1201 Prince Vratislav II established a bishopric to the rank of field marshal and made 549 01 Nové Město nad Metují in Olomouc in 1063 – its seat was directly www.olmuart.cz an imperial count. This was a reward in the castle. Inside these walls in 1306, Václavské náměstí 3 for his participation in the assassination one of the first Czech crime mysteries 771 11 Olomouc

62 Castles and chateaux 63 Of historical interest decisively crushed Napoleon’s French Opočno Orlík Army in the crucial Battle of the Nations Fateful for Trčka of Lípa was his at Leipzig in 1813. Reason to visit alliance with Albrecht von Wallenstein. Reason to visit Previously the emperor’s favourite The diplomatic talent At first it seemed as though Jan Rudolf commander, in 1634 Wallenstein Like an eagle’s nest, a wooden castle of the Schwarzenbergs is attested Trčka of Lípa had it made. He had was accused of conspiracy, deposed was built in the 13th century on a steep to not only by a unique collection inherited a magnificent Renaissance and assassinated along with his friends cliff overlooking the Vltava River. It was of orders of merit but also by the chateau and a profitable estate and had and advisers, among whom was later transformed into a Gothic stone salons with Empire-style furniture married Marie Magdalena of Lobkowicz, the young officer Adam Erdman Trčka castle for the royal garrison. Even though imported from Karl Philipp’s a woman not only beautiful and intelligent – his brother-in-law. The family died the castle’s high perch and the area below ambassadorial residence in Paris but also vibrant and business-minded. out with him, and Opočno fell into the castle were engulfed by a dam in the – and perhaps additionally by the post Perhaps too a fault. Her subjects the possession of the Italian noble family 20th century, it retains its impressive formerly held by the current owner, nicknamed her “evil Manda” because Colloredo, who remained here until appearance as well as the name Orlík Karel Schwarzenberg, as minister of her selfishness, greed and cruelty. the Second World War. (which means “eaglet”). of foreign aœairs of the Czech After 1620, when the Czech nobility Republic. was defeated in its revolt against V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Of historical interest the emperor, she became the richest IV and X weekends and public VII–VIII daily, woman of her time through property holidays. Orlík experienced its heyday after 1802, IV–VI and IX, X Tuesday–Sunday. speculation, intrigues, and her contacts under Karl Philipp Schwarzenberg. on both the losing and winning sides. Already at the age of 16, the young prince She dreamed of a military followed set out on a brilliant military career, by a political career for her son, but www.zamek-opocno.cz first in the bodyguard of the Austrian www.zamekorlik.cz the dream ended with his death Trčkovo náměstí 1 emperor, then within four years Zámek Orlík and the loss of honour along with 517 73 Opočno as a colonel, and soon after as a marshal 398 07 Orlík nad Vltavou all the family’s property. and chief commander of the anti- Napolean troops. His 237,000 men

64 Castles and chateaux 65 interiors have been significantly marred As punishment, he was thrown into Pernštejn by the ravages of time and by vandals. Ploskovice the new dungeon at Prague Castle as its first prisoner and then executed. Reason to visit Thick walls, small windows Reason to visit His story was revived in the Romantic and impressive vaulting, a dungeon era of the 19th century, when, thanks This marble castle with a silvery and chapel – this is the Gothic core For this sumptuous Baroque chateau, to the patriotic opera Dalibor by Bedřich access path (made from mica stones) of the castle. But also spiral staircases which could equal the residences Smetana, it became a symbol of Czech and splendid architecture rises from and narrow corridors with many of foreign nobles, the ambitious music. a rock above deep green forests like authentic medieval inscriptions – Anna Marie Franziska, Grand Duchess the mysterious abode of the Lord excerpts from Ovid as well of Tuscany, paid the unheard-of sum The 19th-century interiors of the Rings. Oriels attached to the upper as lascivious drawings of military of over a million guldens. The “little evoke the atmosphere of the summer stories like swallows’ nests ingeniously guards from long ago. It is a sharp Versailles” was of enormous importance residence of the retired Austrian enlarged the living space of the castle. contrast with the comfortably to her, and she personally oversaw emperor and last crowned king furnished rooms of the last owner. its construction and paid the workers of Bohemia, Ferdinand V of Habsburg. Of historical interest each week. To hide the extent of her The Baroque artificial water caves V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, extravagance from her husband, should not be missed. The castle bears the name of a famous IV and X weekends and public she burned all the bills, so neither noble family, one of the richest holidays. the construction details nor the identity V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, in the Czech lands, for whom large of the architect are known. IV and X weekends and public loans from the emperor became fateful. holidays. When the Pernštejns could not repay Of historical interest them, they were forced to sell off their vast estate. The castle has retained www.hrad-pernstejn.eu In the late 15th century, an uprising www.zamek-ploskovice.cz its Gothic-Renaissance form, Státní hrad Pernštejn of serfs took place at the chateau Státní zámek unchanged since its completion 592 62 Nedvědice and the estate. Its main protagonist 411 42 Ploskovice 1 in the 16th century. Its underused was the knight Dalibor of Kozojedy, an advocate for the oppressed.

66 Castles and chateaux 67 Of historical interest Tip: Every hour there is a changing The castle complex and visitor Prague – of the guard at the castle gates, areas I–XII daily, gardens IV–X daily. Whether you choose to enter Prague and at noon in the First Courtyard Prague Castle Castle through the monumental it is accompanied by fanfare Summer Shakespeare Festival ceremonial gates, just as kings and and a flag ceremony. – the oldest and biggest open-air Reason to visit emperors once did with their processions Shakespeare theatre festival and presidents now do in their The entire castle complex in Europe (VI–IX). It is difficult to decide which Prague limousines, or through the “back servants’ is freely accessible. Tours of the panorama is more captivating: entrance” – the more romantic Old Castle interiors include the Old Royal The Supreme Burgrave’s Palace the one from the river, looking up Steps along the castle’s terraced South Palace, the permanent exhibition houses one of the largest private at the unmistakable silhouette of Prague Gardens, you will be impressed by the “The Story of Prague Castle”, collections of toys in the world, Castle, or the view from the terraces size and splendour of this ancient place of St. George’s Basilica, the Prague with numerous unique objects and windows of Prague Castle, looking Czech rulers. Even today it is the seat of Castle Picture Gallery, the Powder from Europe and North America. down at the magical city with its the head of state. The castle is a textbook Tower, St. Vitus Cathedral with hundreds of towers and monuments of architecture, with first-rate the tomb of Czech kings, Rožmberk dotting the hills on both banks of the monuments in every style, from the Palace, the South Tower of the Vltava River, spanned by a procession Romanesque Old Royal Palace, the Gothic cathedral, and the Golden Lane with of historical bridges. In any case, St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Renaissance the castle walls. The ceremonial Prague Castle with St. Vitus Cathedral Queen Anne’s Summer Palace (Belvedere) halls of Prague Castle are accessible is a national treasure, the symbol to the Baroque Picture Gallery, the two days a year, usually on the first of Czech statehood, and the place that Classicist ceremonial halls and the high- Saturday after May 8th and the most contributes to Prague’s reputation tech hothouse in the gardens designed by first Saturday after October 28th. as a city of unparalleled beauty. the world-renowned architect Eva Jiřičná. Throughout the year, many areas www.prague.eu It is like walking through a 3D film about of the castle hold temporary Pražský hrad Czech history and national identity. exhibitions and cultural events. 119 08 Praha 1

68 Castles and chateaux 69 Prague – Vyšehrad

Reason to visit The rock above the Vltava River crowned by a pair of slender church towers is shrouded in ancient legends and is infused with the genius loci of the destiny of the Czech nation. Away from the crowds of tourists flooding the old quarters in the heart of Prague, Vyšehrad provides an uncommon view of the magnificent city and a quiet respite in a graceful park.

Of historical interest and the count had hopes of playing host An unguided walk through Prague – to Emperor Leopold I and his hunting Vyšehrad is the oldest Czech royal Vyšehrad with a stop at notable sights party here. Soon after the building began, seat, the residence of the first and lookout points is complemented Troja Chateau however, the sovereign permanently crowned Bohemian king, Vratislav I. by a visit to the Art Nouveau interiors abandoned Prague. It was not until It is inseparably connected with of the church, a tour of the graves Reason to visit 23 years later that the count was able the Přemyslid dynasty and the origins of major Czech personalities to at least welcome Leopold’s son, of the Czech nation in the 11th century in the Vyšehrad cemetery, or entry The atmosphere of the “Eternal City” Emperor Joseph I. – and reaches back even further to the casemates and the huge Rome captivated the young Czech Count in ancient legends. The main monuments underground hall Gorlice, which Václav Vojtěch of Šternberk (Sternberg) The story of the chateau’s at Vyšehrad (the Neo-Gothic Church contains original statues from so much that he decided to bring a piece of construction is told by the exhibition of Sts. Peter and Paul and the Baroque the Charles Bridge. it home. In selecting the site and the artists “Eternal Summer in a Roman Villa”. casemates) are much newer. Of the to carry out his dream of a magnificent It is complemented by a unique many Czech legends, which have been I–XII daily. Baroque suburban villa full of art selection of historical images of dogs, rendered artistically numerous times, works in the middle of endless gardens, horses and other animals from the most popular is about the mythical he had extraordinary good fortune. the collections of noble residences horse Šemík, who saved his rider from and the City Gallery Prague. execution by jumping over the ramparts Of historical interest and across the river. Another is about IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. Princess Libuše, the mythical seer, who An oasis of merriment and relaxation, chose to establish a ruling dynasty with surrounded by picturesque vineyards the ploughman Přemysl and is said and a sparkling river, it was not to have prophesied Prague’s undying intended as a permanent residence www.prague.eu fame and stellar future at this site. www.praha-vysehrad.cz but for festivities. The main theme U Trojského zámku 1 V Pevnosti 159/5b of the chateau’s beautiful painted 170 00 Praha 7 120 00 Praha 2-Vyšehrad decorations was an ode to the power and glory of the Habsburg dynasty,

70 Castles and chateaux 71 but local residents dismantled the stone and Prussia to form a coalition against Rabí from the deteriorating castle, which was Ratibořice Napoleon, which contributed abandoned in the 18th century, to use to the French leader’s downfall Reason to visit as building material. Reason to visit and the realignment of Europe.

Nearly 3 kilometres of ramparts What was the story with Žižka’s The educated, independent and attrac- A tour through the salons and walls encircle the largest Czech eye? What kind of view does the castle tive Katharina Wilhelmine, Duchess of the chateau vies successfully with castle ruin, which boasted one of the tower oœer? Is the well in the courtyard of Sagan (in Czech Kateřina Zaháňská), a walk through its park and adjacent most sophisticated defence systems really bottomless? You will learn with her charm and wit was for years “Grandmother’s Valley”, where in Europe in its time. The attractive the answers to these questions a darling of Europe’s highest social everything is connected with medieval environment is beloved by and more on two guided tours. circles, enchanting prominent men the famous Czech novel Grandmother filmmakers shooting fairy tales and of the early 19th century, from by the popular 19th-century writer historical narratives. It was here in 1967 V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, the Russian czar to the Austrian Božena Němcová. that the director František Vláčil filmed IV and X weekends chancellor Metternich. She travelled the famous Czech art film Markéta and public holidays. throughout Europe and was in her V, VI and IX Tuesday–Sunday, Lazarová. element at the Viennese court, VII and VIII daily, but she considered her real home IV and X weekends and public Of historical interest to be her summer residence holidays. in the beautiful countryside of East The most famous event in the extremely Bohemia. rich history of the castle was the siege by Hussite troops in 1421. The legendary Of historical interest military commander and folk hero www.hrad-rabi.eu www.zamek-ratiborice.cz Jan Žižka lost his one healthy eye here, Státní hrad Rabí The Hall of the Three Emperors Státní zámek Ratibořice apparently with an arrow shot by one 342 01 Sušice is a reminder that in 1813 the duchess’ 552 03 Česká Skalice of the defenders of the castle. This scene elegant mansion was the site of secret was once carved on the castle gate, meetings among Austria, Russia

72 Castles and chateaux 73 Slavkov (Austerlitz)

Reason to visit This monumental Baroque chateau is famous for its connection to the battle of Slavkov (Austerlitz), which was fought in 1805 between the French Army and the allied armies of Russia and Austria. After his victory, Emperor Napoleon stayed overnight at this chateau several times and began peace talks here.

Of historical interest

A portrait of the famous White The chateau enjoyed the peak to this site, with the notable Rožmberk Lady is the highlight of the Rožmberk of its fame in the second half of the Art Nouveau memorial called Hall on the first tour circuit, which 18th century under Wenzel Anton, the Cairn of Peace, with the chateau Reason to visit takes visitors back to the time Prince of Kaunitz-Rietberg, a member administration, or you can visit on your of the last Rožmberks, Vilém and Petr of the old Moravian family which had own at any time of year. The best view of the monumental Vok. The Buquoy family, which owned owned the estate for four centuries. medieval castle and romantic landscape the castle from 1620 until the end of The prince moved in the highest Rooms with rich artistic decoration of South Bohemia opens up before the Second World War, is presented imperial circles and helped to form and a unique gallery of Baroque you from the English Tower. However, mainly on a second tour circuit of the policy for the Habsburg monarchy, paintings present an Italian concept it requires a climb of almost 200 steps. private family rooms on the castle’s frequently welcoming Empress of aristocratic life. In the main oval hall, second floor. Maria Theresa to his magnificent home. European history was written: After the Of historical interest He was a lover of art and books, famous Battle of the Three Emperors, I–XII Tuesday–Sunday and, despite censorship, he ordered the armistice between France and This castle from the mid-13th century and public holidays. the latest “subversive” books Austria was concluded right in this is one of the oldest castles belonging on the Enlightenment and new room. The key moments of the historic to the Vítkovci, the predecessors A summer tradition is costumed revolutionary currents directly event are recapitulated by a virtual of one of the most important Czech noble evening tours, when historical figures from France. Battle of Slavkov, which is presented families – the Rožmberks (Rosenbergs), guide visitors through the castle in the form of a projection. to whom the king used to give the most (VII–VIII). Tip: Every year in early December powerful offices in the land. Despite a re-enactment of the battle IV–XI Tuesday–Sunday, the plethora of educated and enterprising in which Napoleon Bonaparte VI–VIII daily. family members, probably the most defeated the numerically popular figure is Perchta of Rožmberk, www.hrad-rozmberk.eu superior allied army led by www.zamek-slavkov.cz who after her death, according Státní hrad Rožmberk the Austrian emperor Palackého náměstí 1 to legend, began appearing in the 382 18 Rožmberk nad Vltavou and the Russian czar takes place 684 01 Slavkov u Brna ancestral residences as on the Slavkov battlefield. a mournful ghost. You can organize a visit

74 Castles and chateaux 75 when the Breton princes of Rohan took of all regimes, including Hungarian Sychrov refuge here. As first cousins of the French Špilberk (Brno) Jacobins, Italian patriots and Polish kings of the Bourbon dynasty, they fled revolutionaries from the Kraków Reason to visit to Sychrov after the French Revolution, Reason to visit Uprising in 1846. During the Second and they liked North Bohemia so much World War it was a transfer point to The spirit of the French countryside that they stayed here, even though they Over the centuries, this stone castle other prisons or concentration camps. infuses not just this chateau, which were later invited to return to their high above the city has caused feelings is a fine example of 19th-century homeland. of both security and fear in Brno In addition to a tour of the historicizing architecture, but also residents. This once-important seat casemates, inside the castle you can the surrounding landscape, which has Besides a tour of the aristocratic of Czech kings and Moravian margraves visit several permanent exhibitions been transformed into a work of art rooms with unrivalled carved gradually grew into a huge Baroque and temporary exhibitions from in its own right. The reconstruction decoration and a portrait gallery military fortress with the harshest the Brno City Museum’s collections. work that gave the chateau its fabulous of the Rohan family, which survived prison in the Austrian monarchy – the The observation gallery of the corner Neo-Gothic form was performed the French Revolution hidden in the notorious “prison of nations”. Later tower oœers a singular view of Brno exclusively by local artists and artisans, attic of a Parisian palace, you can also it was used as army barracks. Today and its surroundings. notably by the ingenious woodcarver see numerous interesting details it is the seat of the Brno City Museum Petr Bušek, who imprinted the chateau and secluded corners of the rambling and is one of the most important IV–IX daily, X–III Tuesday–Sunday. interiors with high artistic value chateau, including the pink bathroom venues in Brno for exhibitions, theatre and an unforgettable atmosphere. of one of the Rohan princesses. performances, concerts, and historical Summer Shakespeare Festival and sporting events. (VII–VIII), Špilberk Philharmonia Brno Of historical interest I–XII daily. Festival (VIII), fencing festival (IX). Of historical interest The estate, after its seizure from Czech www.zamek-sychrov.cz www.spilberk.cz aristocrats, was acquired by a French Státní zámek Sychrov The prison has been part of the fortress Špilberk 1 knightly family for service to the Austrian 463 44 Sychrov since the Thirty Years’ War. Its cells 662 24 Brno-střed emperor in the Thirty Years’ War. have seen the most hardened criminals Its heyday was in the 19th century, and military and political prisoners

76 Castles and chateaux 77 a general reconstruction. The upgrades It is considered to be the last real castle Šternberk included the installation of running water, Švihov built in the Czech lands – after Švihov, hot-air heating, bathrooms and a private lift. only chateaux were built. Reason to visit Reason to visit Tip: In the entry building, the Museum A tour of the rooms where nobility This sprawling castle with rich deco- of Clocks displays 500 timepieces This magnificent water castle was lived and enjoyed themselves and also rations in a range of styles, from Gothic dating from the 2nd millennium BC built by the rich and power-drunk Půta the part of the castle where the staœ to Art Deco, is a textbook example of to the present day, from sundials and Švihovský of Rýzmberk. Tales are still toiled provides a tangible picture one approach to restoring old historical hourglasses to mechanical clocks and told about his pride and cruel treatment of life here in the 16th century. monuments in the Romantic spirit of the pocket watches. of serfs and craftsmen, for which, 19th century. The luxurious furnishings legend has it, the devil took him to hell. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, were largely brought here from At the heart of the two tour routes To this day, there is a strange hole in the IV and X weekends and public inaccessible chateaux in North Moravia. are the collections of the last owners, vaulting of his bedroom which defies all holidays. the Liechtensteins. attempts to repair it. Of historical interest What do dragons look like? V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, Of historical interest You can learn all about dragons The history of the Šternberk (Sternberg) IV Wednesday–Sunday, III and X and how to deal with them in the family seat is intertwined with troubled weekends and public holidays. The perfectly protected medieval fortress summertime exhibition “Dragons”. periods in Czech history, especially wars, had sophisticated technical equipment during which the castle and the town www.hrad-sternberk.cz that could flood the surrounding area with www.hradsvihov.cz below it suffered greatly. For a long time Horní náměstí 6, 785 01 Šternberk water at a moment’s notice (including the Žižkova 1, 340 12 Švihov it lay in ruins. It was only in the late 19th castle’s inner courtyard) and then drain it century that the owners decided to perform before the building sustained any damage.

78 Castles and chateaux 79 Of historical interest The luxurious residence rebuilt in the second half of the 16th century from the original Gothic castle lived on its fame for centuries. The wealth of one of the most lucrative Moravian estates dwindled and then passed into the hands of other noble families. The Renaissance appearance of the chateau and the adjacent square, lined with arcaded townhouses with pastel-coloured façades, has remained almost unchanged and thus retains its original character, which is why it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. This exceptional Renaissance treasure nestled between ponds almost seems like a fairy tale film set. Indeed, films are often shot here, Telč and the locals have become proficient film extras. Reason to visit A tour of the chateau’s rooms is The chateau and town square in Telč almost like a textbook of Renaissance are among the most important gems art techniques. You’ll see painted of the European Renaissance style coœered ceilings, wood carvings outside its birthplace in Italy. and curious hunting trophies. A true It was there that Zacharias of Hradec, gem is the huge Golden Hall, named one of the richest and most powerful for the gilded coœered ceiling with princes of his time, became enthralled scenes from ancient mythology. with the new artistic style while A tour of the private salons of the on his diplomatic missions. He invited last owners of the chateau, the the leading Italian builders, craftsmen Podstatzky-Liechtensteins, includes and artists to his homeland and gave the count’s bathrooms and a dressing them free rein to rebuild his old room with a collection of historical ancestral seat. The opulent interiors clothing and accessories. are decorated with furniture made of gilded silver, tapestries, jewels and IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. precious stones; outside you’ll find sgraffiti, courtyards linked by arcades, and a magnificent park with an www.zamek-telc.cz orangery surrounded by ponds. It is Náměstí Zachariáše z Hradce 1 all a testament to the influence 588 56 Telč of Italian art in the Czech lands.

80 Castles and chateaux 81 luxury, reflecting the status of a king routes in the surrounding maze Točník who reigned over ten countries. Trosky of sandstone rocks and underground This is recalled by the entrance gate with caves. This was once used by 200 robber and Žebrák their coats of arms, including a favourite Reason to visit barons, who had taken the castle with symbol of Václav IV – a kingfisher their cunning, to deflect a large number Reason to visit in a twisted veil. The two towers of this ruined Gothic of land troops, even though they were castle (trosky means “ruins”) are greatly outnumbered. The ruins of two closely neighbouring Unguided tours are very frequently called Bába and Panna (Granny and medieval castles – the best-preserved enhanced by various celebrations, Maiden), and they stand against the On an independent tour, you can pair of castles in the Czech Republic medieval markets, music festivals horizon as the symbol of the region admire not only the distant views – are the dominant feature of the deep and fencing duels. known as Bohemian Paradise. In from the top of the tower Bába, forests of the Křivoklátsko region. turn, they offer stunning views of this but also the restoration work which Točník: IV–IX Tuesday–Sunday, spectacular landscape. After the Thirty is uncovering the sophisticated Of historical interest III and X weekends and public holidays; Years’ War, the abandoned castle technical design of the castle. Žebrák: VII and VIII Tuesday-Sunday, gradually crumbled into picturesque The older castle, Žebrák, was used IV–VI and IX weekends and public ruins, which to this day are loved by V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, VII–VIII from the 13th century by Czech nobles holidays. poets, painters, photographers and all daily, IV and X weekends and public and kings. Emperor Charles IV stopped romantics at heart. holidays. here frequently on his journeys out into the world. A lot of time was also Of historical interest spent here by his successor, Václav IV, an avid hunter who brought his large Building the castle on two steep hunting parties here. After a devastating www.tocnik.com volcanic peaks made it an impregnable www.hrad-trosky.eu fire, he had the castle Točník built on Hrady Točník a Žebrák fortress, which remained unconquerable Státní hrad Trosky a neighbouring hill. For its time, the 267 51 Zdice even during the wild Hussite Wars. As 512 63 Rovensko pod Troskami comfortable new castle with two extra insurance, under the castle there palaces represented unprecedented are said to be vast cellars and escape

82 Castles and chateaux 83 Of historical interest Petr Vok, an educated and art-loving prince who was very charming and appealing to women, could sire no children. And so with his death in 1611, the noble Rožmberk family’s 400-year journey through Czech history came to an end. Their presence in South Bohemia is recalled above all by a large number of breeding ponds, which provided a substantial part of their profits and imprinted the local landscape with its unique atmosphere.

Tip: In an English park on the banks of the huge pond called The World there is an unusual stone tomb with 26 coœins of members of the Schwarzenberg family. furnishings and rich collections could Třeboň Because of its excellent acoustics, Valtice compete with those of the Viennese in the past it was used for concerts. imperial court in the 18th century. Reason to visit Reason to visit The Renaissance chambers In the summer season, Not even 30 alchemists led of the Rožmberk family and the At the southernmost point of the Czech a tour of the princely chambers by the famous Dr. John Dee rooms of courtiers and ladies-in- Republic, the powerful and wealthy of the Liechtenstein family can and Edward Kelley, who were invited waiting give an idea of life in the Liechtenstein family had a 185 km2 be combined with a visit to nearby to Třeboň by Vilém of Rožmberk, noble courts of that time – such area of marshes and swamps around points of interest, such as the hunting could create a potion that would as the art of fine dining and feasting. the Dyje River drained. On this land, lodge called Rendezvous, a classical guarantee him offspring. He died Over the summer holidays you can situated between their beautiful chateaux colonnade oœering beautiful views, childless, and his enormous estate, also visit the stables, a kitchen in Valtice and Lednice, they created and the Chapel of St. Hubert, as well as his debts, were inherited that prepared food only for dogs, an artificial landscape with ponds full the patron saint of hunters, where by his younger brother Petr Vok. and underground casemates, of water lilies, shaded forests, scented masses to give thanks would take Vok gradually sold off some of the which later were transformed into meadows and flowering parks. place after aristocratic hunts. ancestral residences, then he and his wine cellars. Also possible is a walk To surprise and delight their guests, entire court relocated to the chateau through the beautifully furnished they invited the best Viennese architects IV–VI and IX–X Tuesday–Sunday, in Třeboň, which he had rebuilt private apartments of the last to build a number of marvellous little VII–VIII daily and XI weekends and in the Renaissance style for his owners, the Schwarzenbergs. buildings here. public holidays. comfort and also as a place to house a unique archive and collections IV–X Tuesday–Sunday. Of historical interest which could nearly rival those of Emperor Rudolf II at Prague Castle. www.zamek-trebon.eu Valtice historically belonged to Austria, www.zamek-valtice.cz Zámek 115 and from the Middle Ages until 1945 Zámek 1 379 01 Třeboň it belonged to the Liechtenstein family. 691 42 Valtice A succession of 13 ruling princes gradually built an epic residence whose splendour,

84 Castles and chateaux 85 While it is possible to visit Inside the chateau you can Velhartice the original medieval sections Velké Březno explore the mysteries of aristocratic of the castle and the interiors from living in detail, including his and hers Reason to visit the Renaissance era, when aristocratic Reason to visit bedrooms. Surprising is the number living conditions became much more of accoutrements for daily hygiene, The romantic atmosphere of this ancient comfortable and pleasurable, you will One of the youngest and smallest showing that good grooming was just castle with its unusual defence be most impressed on an unguided Czech chateaux, it was built in the as important and time-consuming for system is enhanced by the surrounding tour during which you can explore mid-19th century by Count Chotek as a men as it was for women. wooded hills of one of the most beautiful the grounds in detail and enjoy place to spend the autumn of his life. In valleys in the Šumava region. spectacular views of the surrounding his youth he travelled throughout Europe V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, nature reserve and open-air museum and mingled in the social circles of great IV and X weekends and public Of historical interest of folk architecture below the castle. cities, but once he retired from public life holidays. as a leading politician he retreated One of the first owners and builders V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, to the Czech countryside. of the castle, Bušek of Velhartice, IV and X weekends and public and also his son were favourite holidays. Of historical interest and faithful chamberlains of the King and Emperor Charles IV. Perhaps every From the outside the building Czech remembers from school the poem is reminiscent of a railway station, about the ruler and his friend who often yet it was equipped with all the amenities sat together at a stone table and hoisted of its time for the comfort of the freshly many a wine goblet together. retired count and his charming wife, www.hradvelhartice.cz Princess Adelheid, as well as their Hrad Velhartice numerous guests, including Franz Liszt. www.zamek-vbrezno.cz 341 42 Kolinec 403 23 Velké Březno

86 Castles and chateaux 87 Although visitors’ interest including the original stone and parquet Velké Losiny is most riveted by the Hall of Justice, Vizovice floors, frescoes, and doors and windows the tragic site of the interrogations with Baroque metal fittings, locks Reason to visit of those accused of witchcraft, Reason to visit and shutters. the most valuable room in the One of the most beautiful arcaded chateau is the austere Knights’ Hall, One of the most beautiful chateaux Two tour routes present Renaissance chateaux north of the with walls decorated in leather of the Late Baroque period in Moravia, the reception areas of the chateau Alps, in the late 17th century it became and a towering Renaissance stove it stands in the centre of the town including the chapel and also infamous as the scene of witch trials. made of colourful tiles. The chateau at the foot of the Vizovické Highlands the private rooms for family members, The cruel inquisitor used trumped-up also has an important collection in Wallachia (Valašsko) – a region guests and servants. accusations to have more than of art works, weapons, and a of distinctive folk traditions and whose 50 innocent women and men – mostly wonderful group of tapestries – local specialty is the plum distillate V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, wealthy burghers whose property the second largest in Moravia. called slivovice. You can learn about IV and X weekends and public was the real reason for their persecution its illustrious four-century tradition holidays. – tortured and burned alive at the stake. V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, at a small museum inside the chateau. IV and X weekends and public holidays. Of historical interest Of historical interest For more than three centuries, The insolvent manor, destroyed the chateau was owned by the Žerotíns, by Turkish raids, was bought one of the richest families in Moravia. at auction in the mid-18th century The original small water fortress could by the 30-year-old Count Heřman not meet their high standards, Hannibal of Blümegen, who later became www.zamek-vizovice.cz and therefore they had it rebuilt www.zamek-losiny.cz a bishop. He had it levelled to the ground Náměstí Palackého 376 on a grand scale in the 16th century. 788 15 Velké Losiny 268 and built here a grand, ultramodern 763 12 Vizovice residence in the French style. It is preserved in its unaltered form,

88 Castles and chateaux 89 of the greatest figures of the Central of Emperor Franz I. The young duke died Vranov nad Dyjí European Baroque – the Viennese court Zákupy of tuberculosis without ever having seen architect Fischer von Erlach. Throughout his new residence. Reason to visit the 19th century the chateau was Reason to visit in the hands of the noble Polish family The interiors of the chateau This sumptuous chateau built on Mniszek, which led the renowned Vranov Ferdinand I of Austria, the last crowned were gloriously adapted for the retired a promontory in the picturesque valley stoneware factory to prosperity. king of Bohemia (as Ferdinand V), liked emperor in the fashionable style of the Dyje River was one of the most to stay at this chateau after he abdicated of the Rococo Revival. For his renowned noble residences The richly furnished interiors the Austro-Hungarian throne in 1848. maximum comfort, a Baroque lift of the Baroque era. The main reason reflect the refined culture He virtually never reigned alone and was restored, whose technical for its fame was its charming owner, of aristocratic life at the chateau. was regarded as a kind-hearted but equipment is part of the tour. Maria Anna, Marchioness of Pignatelli, The monumental oval ancestral hall intellectually deficient scion of a closely whom Count Althann – a favourite of the Althann family from the late related coalition of European aristocrats V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, of Emperor Charles VI – brought home 17th century is a gem of the builder’s (he was derisively called “der arme IV and X weekends and public to his family residence from Spain. art in Europe. The chapel is the work Trottel Nandel” – the poor idiot Nandel). holidays. It was an open secret that the real reason of the same architect. Against all odds he lived to a ripe old age, for the monarch’s frequent visits and he took good care of his summer from nearby Vienna was the vivacious V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, residence, which had been thoroughly and intelligent lady of the manor. IV and X weekends and public holidays. modified for him.

Of historical interest Of historical interest The present appearance of the residence www.zamek-vranov.cz After the fall of Napoleon, Zákupy was www.zamek-zakupy.cz was imprinted on the castle – which had Zámecká 93 designated in 1815 as a refuge for the Borská 1 been devastated by a fire in 1665 671 03 Vranov nad Dyjí general’s son, widely known as “the 471 23 Zákupy – by the counts of Althann in the late Eaglet”, from the emperor’s marriage 17th century. They called upon one with Marie Louise of Austria, daughter

90 Castles and chateaux 91 Of historical interest Žďár A seat of the first Czech kings, situated along a strategic trade route at nad Sázavou the confluence of the Vltava and Otava rivers, it often changed owners. Its Reason to visit greatest fame came in the 14th century, during the reign of the beloved Bohemian One of the most resplendent eccle- King Charles IV. He had it thoroughly siastical residences of the early repaired and liked to stay here, even 18th century, it was designed keeping the Crown Jewels here until by the enlightened and art-loving Karlštejn Castle was built. A full stop abbot Václav Vejmluva together with to its ancient history came in the 20th the ingenious architect Jan Santini- century, when a dam was built that Aichel. The monastery’s stables engulfed the high rock and the fortified and other outbuildings are just settlement below the castle. as magnificent as the halls of the prelature, the mystical pilgrimage An unguided tour of the castle Church of St. John of Nepomuk courtyards, terraces, cellars at Zelená hora (meaning Green and the royal palace allows you Mountain), and the cemetery with The energetic owners Zvíkov to soak up its romantic atmosphere. a ground plan in the shape of a skull of the chateau, members of the old The most beautiful place is the chapel, – all gems of the original artistic style aristocratic family Kinský, Reason to visit built in the 13th century to celebrate known as the Baroque Gothic. have opened the former monastery the greatness and power of Ottokar II, and its outbuildings to the public. The core of the fortifications of this called the “Iron and Golden King”. Of historical interest You can explore the most beautiful royal castle is a massive residential interiors, which contain a number tower with a highly unusual structure. Royal Palace: V–IX Tuesday– In the beginning, a group of Cistercian of permanent exhibitions, including The tower’s 3-metre-thick walls made Sunday, IV and X weekends and public monks built a log cabin in the wild one on the development of books, of blocks of black stone were reinforced holidays. forest near the Sázava River in the printing and book culture; with a sharp edge to repel projectiles, 13th century, little by little constructing one of Baroque art from the which slid down without doing any a modest monastery with their own collections of the National Gallery; the serious damage to the masonry. The hands. Five centuries later, its extensive Kinský Gallery; one featuring historical castle was never conquered, not even Baroque reconstruction was one pianos; an exhibition on the life of the in medieval times or during the Thirty of the most expensive building projects architect Santini-Aichel; and a museum Years’ War. Some claim that this is due of its time. The triumphant completion of the local fire brigade. to mysterious protective symbols carved of the 30-year building effort was in the bottom 11 rows of the tower’s stone celebrated in 1735. Just two years VII–VIII daily, IX–III Tuesday– blocks. Although they do resemble runes, later the monastery burned down, Sunday. historians view them as the marks and Vejmluva died the following year. of the stonemasons who worked on the At the end of the 18th century, royal buildings. But who knows for sure? Emperor Joseph II closed the monastery, and its use became www.zamekzdar.cz residential and agricultural. Zámek 11 591 02 Žďár nad Sázavou 2 www.hrad-zvikov.eu 397 01 Písek

92 Castles and chateaux 93 I would like [khod:skee ko:lahtch] Hard to pronounce, even harder to resist

Tip: The chateau park links to a unique Žleby game preserve where white deer are bred. Reason to visit Two tour circuits present In the 19th century, the romantic the luxurious living chambers, and somewhat eccentric Vincent Karel the chateau theatre, the lookout Chodsko-style pastry Auersperg, inspired by the traditions tower, and the chateau armoury, of old England, transformed his with one of the largest collections chateau into a knight’s residence like of weapons in Europe, including a something from a novel by Sir Walter complete set of knight’s armour on Scott. horseback. You will gain interesting insights into the daily operation of the Of historical interest household from the technically well- appointed kitchen to the ingeniously The Neo-Gothic reconstruction designed sanitary facilities, and you was designed in the very spirit of the will also visit the labyrinthine old castle saying “My home is my castle”. cellars. The count searched throughout Europe for sumptuous antiques, from furniture V–IX Tuesday–Sunday, and paintings to rugs, dishes, glassware IV and X weekends and public holidays. and historical weapons, not neglecting the tiniest detail. However, for the day- www.zamek-zleby.cz The Czech language is well known for twisting tongues, but to-day operation of his “medieval” home Zámecká 1 your linguistic e orts will be richly rewarded with tempting – where he liked to dress in knight’s 285 61 Žleby Czech specialties that will tickle your taste buds. You can sample the most delicious dishes our country has to o er armour – he did not hesitate to use the in restaurants with the Czech Specials designation. most modern amenities. www.czechspecials.cz 94 Castles and chateaux

zT-CzechSpecials-chodskykolac-105x150-AJ.indd 1 21. 8. 2014 11:46:12 Index The oœicial tourist presentation of the Czech Republic www.czechtourism.com Bečov nad Teplou ...... 2 Lednice ...... 47 Bezděz ...... 3 Lipnice nad Sázavou ...... 50 Bítov ...... 4 Litomyšl ...... 51 Blatná ...... 5 Loket ...... 52 Boskovice ...... 6 Manětín ...... 53 Bouzov ...... 7 Mělník ...... 54 Buchlov ...... 8 Mikulov ...... 55 Buchlovice ...... 9 Milotice ...... 56 Častolovice ...... 10 Mnichovo Hradiště ...... 57 Červená Lhota ...... 11 Náchod ...... 58 Český Krumlov ...... 12 Náměšť na Hané ...... 59 Český Šternberk ...... 14 Náměšť nad Oslavou ...... 60 Cheb ...... 15 Nelahozeves ...... 61 Dětenice ...... 16 Nové Město nad Metují ...... 62 Dobříš ...... 17 Olomouc ...... 63 Duchcov ...... 18 Opočno ...... 64 Frýdlant ...... 19 Orlík ...... 65 Hluboká nad Vltavou ...... 20 Pernštejn ...... 66 Horšovský Týn ...... 21 Ploskovice ...... 67 Hořovice ...... 22 Prague – Prague Castle ...... 68 Hradec nad Moravicí ...... 23 Prague – Troja Chateau ...... 70 Hrádek u Nechanic ...... 24 Prague – Vyšehrad ...... 71 Hukvaldy ...... 25 Rabí ...... 72 Jaroměřice nad Rokytnou ...... 26 Ratibořice ...... 73 Javorník – Jánský Vrch ...... 27 Rožmberk ...... 74 Jindřichův Hradec ...... 28 Slavkov (Austerlitz) ...... 75 Kačina ...... 29 Sychrov ...... 76 Kámen ...... 30 Špilberk (Brno) ...... 77 Karlova Koruna ...... 31 Šternberk ...... 78 Karlštejn ...... 32 Švihov ...... 79 Published by: CzechTourism, Prague 2017 © Kašperk ...... 33 Telč ...... 80 Vinohradská 46, 120 41 Praha 2 Klášterec nad Ohří ...... 34 Točník and Žebrák ...... 82 [email protected], [email protected] Kokořín ...... 35 Trosky ...... 83 Written by: Titanic Publishing Konopiště ...... 36 Třeboň ...... 84 Translation: Mimi Fronczak Rogers Kost ...... 37 Valtice ...... 85 Photo on the cover page: Zvíkov, photo by Libor Sváček Krásný Dvůr ...... 38 Velhartice ...... 86 Photographs: © Ladislav Renner, Jirí Strašek, Libor Sváček, Martin Mařák, Aleš Kratochvíle ...... 39 Velké Březno ...... 87 Motejl, Michal Vitásek, Dagmar Veselková, CzechTourism Kroměříž ...... 40 Velké Losiny ...... 88 Production: Vydavatelství MCU, www.mcumedia.cz Křivoklát ...... 41 Vizovice ...... 89 2015, 3rd edition (Reprint 2017) Kuks ...... 42 Vranov nad Dyjí ...... 90 The data given cannot be guaranteed in spite of meticulous research. Kunětická hora ...... 43 Zákupy ...... 91 Not for sale. Kunín ...... 44 Zvíkov ...... 92 Kynžvart ...... 45 Žďár nad Sázavou ...... 93 ISBN: 978-80-7513-076-1 Landštejn ...... 46 Žleby ...... 94

96 Castles and chateaux 0 25 50 75 100 km

19 Ústí nad Liberec Labem Poland Germany 87 91 18 76 67 57 83 3 37 34 35 73 Karlovy 58 Vary 54 42 27 38 16 Hradec 62 61 Králové 52 24 64 15 2 70 31 53 43 10 45 41 68 Praha 88 71 29 82 32 Pardubice 94 Ostrava Plzeň 22 14 51 23 17 36 78 7 25 Olomouc 21 50 44 79 65 93 59 63 92 6 30 66 5 Jihlava 86 72 11 40 Zlín 33 20 80 Brno 89 28 60 75 České 26 39 Budějovice 77 8 9 46 84 Germany 56 12 4 90 55 47 74 85 Slovakia

Austria In Pursuit of Baroque Gems by Train Take a train ride and discover the most beautiful Baroque sites in the Czech Republic.

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Olomouc by train from Prague in 2 hrs 5 min.