Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ Volume XXI, No. 2

Do these tough old hombres look like promoters of an INTERNATIONAL PEACE PARK? Legendary early rangers “Death-on- the-Trail” Reynolds of Glacier (left) and “Kootenai” Brown of Waterton advocated a unified park. (see story on p. 10) (photo courtesy of the Glenbow Archives, NA-138-3)

Also inside: • Softball in Glacier in the ‘20s and ‘30s • The “Bubble Queens” of the ‘40s • Renovation in the ‘50s • Switchboard Tales of the ‘70s • A Busman’s Holiday • Hiking Boulder Pass • The Red Eagle Fire of 2006

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 1 Inside News of Glacier Park: Reviving the Music at Many Glacier GPF and GPI Team Up to Promote piano, flute and violin, and a variety enade. Donations were encouraged Employee Entertainment of songs and readings (including with watercolor prints signed by original compositions). Each Hoo- GPF member Billie Lott. Many Glacier Hotel’s long tradition tenanny ended with the whole staff of employee entertainment is be- The Foundation’s offer graciously has singing the traditional “Hail to Thee, ing revived, after many seasons of been accepted by GPI’s president, O Many Glacier.” relative dormancy. The Glacier Park Cindy Ognjanov. Many Glacier Foundation (GPF) and Glacier Park, During the winter, the Glacier manager Mena Reilly is supervising Inc. (GPI), the concessionaire, are Park Foundation offered to sponsor this summer’s musical programs. working together on this project. ongoing musical programs at the They include weekly Hootenannies hotel. GPF offered to pay a stipend and other performances by employ- The musical revival began last to a Many Glacier employee who ees. August, with a large reunion of would act as musical director. It also 1970s employees at the hotel. The The Foundation’s Board of Directors offered to pay small stipends (“Tip- reunion included a Hootenanny and will review this “pilot project” after pet Scholarships”) to employees who a Serenade -- two musical programs the season. If it is deemed success- distinguished themselves as perform- that were performed every week in ful, it may be continued in future ers during the 2007 season. the lobby during Ian B. Tippet’s era years with funds from GPF’s Ter- as manager. (See the Winter 2006 The stipends are to be paid from rie Stewart Bequest Fund. GPF is Inside Trail.) generous donations that were made pleased to play this role in the revival to encourage music at Many Glacier of Many Glacier’s longstanding mu- Last summer’s staff at Many Glacier during the 1970s reunion. Some sical tradition. enjoyed the reunion events, and $1,700 was donated by members of began holding Hootenannies of their the audience at the reunion Ser- own. These programs, held every Sunday evening, included guitars,

Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Membership Mac Willemssen, Secretary Board of Directors: The Inside Trail takes its name Tessie Bundick, Historian Tessie Bundick Jim Lees, Treasurer from the famous old trail Laura Chihara Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor which connected Glacier Janet Eisner Cornish Carol Repulski Dahle Park Lodge with the vanished The Glacier Park Foundation was chalets at Two Medicine, Joyce Daugaard formed by Glacier Park employees Ray Djuff and visitors who have a deep love for Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Glenn Elvig this special place. The Foundation is name thus emphasizes the commited both to the importance Lee Flath publication’s focus on the David Gilbertson of wilderness preservation and to the importance of places like Glacier lore and history of Glacier John Hagen as classrooms where people can Einar Hanson experience wilderness in intense National Park. We invite Paul Hoff meaningful ways, learning not only a submission of historical, Mark Hufstetler love for the land, but also a respect scientific, or anecdotal ar- Jeff Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to preserve that land. The Foundation ticles, commentary, poetry, Linda Young Kuhn has a special interest in Glacier Park’s or artwork for publication in Rolf Larson history, traditions and visitor facilities. Don Loeffler future issues. Leroy Lott Greg Notess Mac Willemssen

2 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail Inside News of Glacier Park Going-To-the-Sun Road Update Tons of rock and gravel debris were and Sage Creek initiatives) in Canada Going-to-the-Sun Road opened to washed across the Highline Trail. A during the 1980s. trans-mountain traffic on July 1 (ap- section of the trail about 100 yards long, Very recently, British Petroleum an- parently the latest opening since World below the switchbacks near Haystack nounced another large project. The War II, when the road was not plowed Butte, was buried by landslides from company is studying extraction of due to wartime austerity, and melted Mt. Gould. Another 500 yards of trail natural gas from the Crowsnest coal open in July). This year’s delay was due between Haystack Butte and Granite field in British Columbia. Water would to the repairs required by washouts from Park Chalet was also covered by debris. be pumped from deep underground, the torrential rains of November 2006. One washout in this section, about a relieving pressure in the coal field and quarter mile past the Haystack saddle, releasing the natural gas. The worst flood damage occurred just was 15 feet wide and 15 feet deep. below the East Side tunnel. About 110 Wastewater from the project, laden with feet of road was completely destroyed, as Trails in the Many Glacier area were contaminants, could migrate into the both lanes of the roadbed washed into hard hit. The steep Swiftcurrent Pass North Fork. Environmental groups and the valley. Crews since have installed a trail suffered heavy washout damage (es- government agencies are raising con- temporary steel bridge across this gap. pecially near the Devil’s Elbow), as did cerns about this proposal. The roadbed will be rebuilt underneath the Grinnell Glacier trail. The Josephine it, and the bridge will be removed and Creek bridge was washed off its moor- An International Mountain Rescue the road resurfaced in the fall. ings, but was salvaged and reinstalled. The 75th anniversary of Waterton-Gla- cier International Peace Park was drama- Other washouts along the road have Elsewhere in Glacier, Packer’s Roost was tized recently by a cooperative rescue. A been repaired with riprap and new heavily damaged and was temporarily climber disabled high on Glacier’s Little retaining walls. The Park also has closed as a trailhead. Large trail bridges Chief Mountain was rescued by spe- replaced 15- and 18-inch culverts that were washed away at Reynolds Creek cially-trained Canadian park wardens, washed out during the flood with 48- on the Gunsight Pass trail, at Mineral assisted by American rangers. inch culverts. Creek on the Fifty Mountain trail, and at other points. Bridges and campgrounds The injured climber was Denis Twohig Meanwhile, the Park is pursuing a mas- in the Red Eagle valley were burned in of Whitefish, Montana, a long-time sive 10-year, $170 million reconstruc- last summer’s forest fire, and had to be member of the Glacier Park Founda- tion of the road. To reduce traffic as rebuilt. tion and the Glacier Mountaineering this work proceeds, the Park is offering Society. Twohig, 68, was leading a free shuttle bus service between the new Environmental Threats Proliferate technical climb of the Gendarme, a rock Apgar Transit Center and the St. Mary Recent months have brought sober- formation on the northeast ridge of Visitor Center. ing news of environmental threats to Little Chief, at late afternoon on July 2. Glacier. Coal and petroleum companies On the west side of Logan Pass, 12-pas- While roped up, he suffered a 15-foot seek to start major operations north senger buses run at 15” intervals, stop- fall and was arrested by his partner. of the Park, in the Canadian Flathead ping at several points on the Road. On The partner left Twohig secured on a area. These developments could pollute the east side, larger buses run at 30” in- high ledge and then climbed down the the North Fork of the Flathead River tervals. These optional free shuttle rides mountain alone, reaching Rising Sun (which forms Glacier’s western bound- are projected to keep up to 700 vehicles around 11 PM. ary) and the air above the Park, as well daily of Going-to-the-Sun. In addition, as disrupting wildlife. Glacier Park officials called Parks Cana- the fleet of red “jammer” buses contin- da and requested the help of its highly- ues to run among the Park’s lodges. The Cline Mining Co. seeks to strip trained technical mountain rescue coal from a mountaintop 22 miles from Trail and Bridge Repairs team. The team responded early next Glacier. The mountain lies along Foisey morning. A Parks Canada helicopter The November flood caused extensive Creek, a tributary of the North Fork. “short-hauled” two wardens to Twohig’s damage to Glacier’s backcountry bridges Montana’s governor and Congressional ledge in a sling. The wardens placed and trails. Park Service trail crews and delegation have urged Canadian officials Twohig in the sling, and the helicopter Montana Conservation Corps crews to block the mine’s development. Simi- brought him to the valley floor. have worked very hard this summer lar efforts succeeded in blocking similar making repairs. coal-mining projects (the Coal Creek

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 3 The Tour de France I was ready, almost anxious, to give Busman’s Holiday: my first solo tour when the call came. I was assigned a Logan Pass Fire and Rain in 2003-2004 tour (Lake McDonald to Logan and By Chuck Nelson (Gearjammer 2003- several days of lecturing erased any return). A nice, simple, quick tour to 04) doubts we had. cut my teeth on. With much antici- pation I pulled “old 91” in front of My addiction to Glacier began in Driver Training the lodge, opened the doors, and 1994, with a whirlwind, overnight, Training was thorough, comprehen- located my first tour a group of drive-through visit that whetted my sive, and enjoyable. Where else would French tourists on a bus tour of the appetite for more. Return trips in you get to drive a $225,000 vehicle United States, none of whom spoke subsequent years sparked an interest through some of the most gorgeous English - except for the tour guide in working in the park. Afforded an scenery in the world (often with the who had been on several Red Bus opportunity to retire early from my top rolled back), and get paid for it? tours in the past couple years, and career as a federal manager, a trip to After four days of training I was di- could do the presentation himself. Glacier in 2001 cemented my desire rected to take a special evening drive He encouraged me to go ahead and to work “a summer” in what I felt with Mike Buck, who was responsible give the presentation to him. He’d was the most beautiful place on earth. for driver training. I was convinced use the microphone to occasion- that this was remedial driver training, A series of part-time retirement jobs ally translate to the rest of the bus. and wondered if I would ever be cer- eventually landed me a position as a I’m not sure how well received that tified to drive a tour. I was beaming bus driver for the senior transporta- first presentation was, but I did get two days later when Rich informed tion department of my hometown, the tour up to Logan Pass and back me that my little evening “remedial” Huntington Beach, California. Fol- without incident. drive was my certification drive, and lowing my wife’s retirement in late I passed. I was to be worked into the My second tour was the following 2002, we were set to experience a tour rotation as soon as possible. I day, a full day tour, leaving from Glacier summer. Within days of my was also assigned to bus 91 as my LML, across the Going to the Sun application submission, Rich Bond primary vehicle, which I began call- road to St. Mary’s, lunch, and return. of the Glacier Transportation Depart- ing “old 91”. It was the perfect tour. The weather ment called, and after a short discus- was superb, lots of animals made sion of my qualifications (i.e., bus The driver’s schedule is made up appearances, and the guests laughed driver) he offered me a position as a weeks in advance, and is subject to heartily at my jokes and asked lots jammer driver, working out of Lake frequent changes. It took several days of great questions. I was even able to McDonald Lodge (LML). So began to work me into the tour schedule, display some jammer driver “magic” my two-summer “busman’s holiday.” so I worked on my presentation when I conjured up a herd of deer at - over and over and over. I initially The 2003 season began with driver the last stop of the tour. The season began preparing my driver’s presen- training at Glacier Park Lodge could have ended after that tour and tation in March, when I received the (GPL). This was the first year that all I would have been happy. driver’s handbook via email. (The the “reds” were back in service after driver’s handbook is a compilation of Thereafter, the early season settled the rebuild by Ford Motor Compa- decades of information about Gla- into a wonderful series of tour after ny, and driving safely and responsi- cier, covering flora, animals, history, tour, broken up by occasional stints bly was strongly emphasized. Receiv- etc. Printed, it’s the size of a thick as a hiker shuttle driver. It was an ing almost equal importance was phonebook, and is an essential aid unusually warm summer, which the need to give the buses, which for drivers in preparing the narrative led to lots of short sleeve and shorts Rich referred to as the “Rubies of they provide to passengers on Red days, which did wonders for my the Rockies”, lots of tender, loving Bus Tours. In training class we re- Southern California tan. It also care. If we were unclear as to how ceived a bound copy that is returned made for great tours, all the glorious significant this was when we started, at the end of the season). blue skies and sunshine, but the thy,

4 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail (Continued from previous page) hot weather was heading us toward Park staff and visitors clapped and miss” highlight suggestions, dining the worst fire season in park history. cheered, as the red buses symbolized options (don’t miss huckleberry ice a return to normalcy for the park. cream!) and picture taking come The Dramatic Fires of 2003 with the territory. But because so Finally, about the third week in Multitasking After the Fires many of the regular staff had left due July, disaster struck. Dry lightning But it wasn’t quite normal. With to the fires, the late 2003 season had combined with campfire carelessness the temporary closing of many park jammers working as bellmen, jani- led to the Roberts and Trapper Fires facilities, many of the staff were tors, housekeepers, and bus boys. On (among others) that threatened the allowed out of their contracts, so one day in particular I cleaned the West entrance of the park and the there was a very light staff at Lake lobby, picked up passengers at the GTTS road at the Loop. These fires McDonald to serve the visitors who train station, drove a tour, returned led to the evacuation of the park on still came to the park. The jammer to haul baggage to rooms, and ended the west side. The Lake McDonald drivers were summoned to GPL the evening by helping bus tables in complex was closed. The employees for a meeting, where many drivers the dining room. All a part of the were evacuated to GPL, with the red assumed that we too would be let job that year. buses serving as evacuation vehicles. out of our contracts because of the Many hikers and backpackers stum- difficult conditions. Finally, the rains arrived, along with bled out of the wilderness at LML to some early snow, and by mid-Sep- Upon our arrival, exactly the op- find that they too needed transpor- tember the fires along with the fire posite happened. Not only were we tation out of the park, and the reds crews were gone. The season finished not let go, we were asked to take on filled this need. There was great con- in spectacular Glacier fashion with other duties. Now a jammer had cern as to how bad the fires would early fall colors, snow dusting the a great many more responsibilities be. Rumors floated about that the higher elevations, and sightings of besides maneuvering the bus and Swiftcurrent area had been destroyed, bear, elk and other Glacier fauna providing Q and A for the passen- that Many Glacier was gone, etc. In becoming more frequent as the days gers. Direction giving, “shouldn’t the end, these all proved untrue. shortened. The last jammer tours not As a driver living off site, I had my own adventures. Living outside of Martin City (near Hungry Horse) in the Great Bear Wilderness, we also were evacuated for several days due to fires in the area. When we returned to the ranch we lived on it was reassuring to see that all the Gla- cier Rafting Companies had relocat- ed their equipment into the pasture next to our apartment - somebody obviously thought it was a safe place to stay! Finally, after 12 days, the fires were controlled and we returned to Lake McDonald to resume tours. A pro- cession of 10 “reds” made for quite a sight as we motored along Highway 2 from GPL to LML. As we drove Reds entering the park at West Glacier. (photo by Chuck Nelson) through the West Entrance station,

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 5 (Continued from previous page) At the same time that we were Jammers along driving west from Logan, the Park the Big Drift Prior Service was still working to clear the to the Opening road of rockfall and snow that kept of Goint-to-the- coming down from the winter drifts. Sun Road. (photo In addition to dodging rocks, snow- by Chuck Nelson) balls and other items that were being washed onto the road by the weath- er, we also had to maneuver around Park Service plows and dozers. After two or three runs up and down, it appeared the operators were just a little bit irritated, putting up with all the red bus drivers having a ball driv- ing the obstacle course that had been created for them. So Rich called an end to the training and back to GPL only highlighted Glacier’s wonder- always willing to help and is full of we went. ful scenery, but also added a new information, so his leading the first element - drivers could point to the tour was a good omen for the year. The Crown of the Continent effects of the fires, now covered in The GTTS Road wasn’t open yet, Added to the tour schedule for some areas with snow. What amazed so we drove up to Jackson Glacier 2004 from LML was an early after- me was that in areas around The Overlook on this first tour, and then noon tour, the “PM Crown of the Loop, fresh green vegetation was returned to GPL. We lucked out Continent” tour. It left at 2:00pm, already pushing up through the ash- and caught a herd of elk just below crossed the divide, and had din- covered landscape within weeks of Rising Sun, presaging a good year for ner on the East Side, usually at St. the fires being quenched. A fitting animal sightings. Mary’s (until Rising Sun opened). way for Mother Nature to show that Then we returned over the same The GTTS road was set to open May she never quits working. route, finishing about 8pm. I drove 29th. In order to sharpen our driv- the first PM Crown in 2004 (with 2 Back in the Saddle in 2004 ing skills, Rich Bond arranged for us passengers - a honeymoon couple). With the fires and the interrupted to do some practice driving over the Whenever I was scheduled to drive season in 2003, I didn’t feel as road. So on the 27th, a group of us the tour, it seemed like people were though I had experienced a “normal” climbed into our busses and headed ready to go, so I became the “King” Glacier season, so after consultation from GPL up to Logan Pass. We of the Crown of the Continent. I with my wife, we decided to return drove down the west side as far as really enjoyed this tour, as chances again in 2004. As a returning driver, Haystack Creek, then turned around of seeing wildlife later in the evening my season started in mid-May as and headed back up. The purpose of were excellent, and there was more I was brought in to help prep the the training was to help us refresh flexibility in the timing (you could reds for their second full season. We our skills negotiating the tight clear- take a little longer if necessary). also took some practice spins with ances on the road and familiarizing the busses, often in sloppy weather, ourselves with the route. The weather Weather played havoc with many of including rain and ice, even at GPL. was cloudy and cold on the way up, these tours; you could end up with I had the good fortune to drive a but seemed manageable. Once at a really late day in some instances. group tour out of GPL on the 25th, Logan Pass, things changed dramati- Due to sporadic landslides that with fellow jammers Vic Daniels cally. Fog, rain, snow and sleet set in, closed the western GTTS route, and Audrey Jones. Vic is a long- but we went on with the training. the tour would drive around the time, knowledgeable driver who is southern end of the park via route

6 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail (Continued from previous page) 2, visit GPL, stop at Rising Sun for had multiple tour days. On more Is She A Spy? dinner, then continue up to Logan than one occasion I’d return from a One day early in the season I left Pass. Then you reversed completely one-way tour to Rising Sun with a LML with 12 passengers, headed to and returned to Lake McDonald. group off a tour bus, deadhead (no St. Mary on the AM Crown tour. With all the additional driving, there passengers) back to LML, planning My front seat passenger seemed a were a number of these PM Crown the evening’s fly-fishing, and find little odd, and I was concerned that tours that had me washing my bus that I was assigned another unsched- she might be a “secret shopper”. We after midnight - a very late day. (The uled tour to drive immediately upon had been informed that the Park Ser- positive side to this was I found out my return. vice would occasionally have riders who - or what - removed much of secretly board the buses to evaluate Early on in the season, much dis- the road kill that occurred during the drivers. Therefore, thinking that cussion centered on whether 2004 the day. Driving home along Lake she was a likely plant, I was on my would be a repeat of the fires of McDonald on these late nights I’d best behavior, covering the material 2003. Mother Nature provided see wildlife - foxes, ringtails and rac- I knew best and was confident was lots of early season rainfall, which coons - that apparently relished the accurate - the bus, the road, etc. seemed to postpone the fire season duty of cleaning the highway and with each rainstorm. It rained most At our stop at The Loop, as passen- did so on the graveyard shift). of July 4th, and July 7th the GTTS gers were viewing fire damage, a ca- The 2004 season was incredibly busy. road was closed at Logan Pass by 4 sually dressed gentleman walked up All the attention the fires of 2003 inches of snow. (I endured unceas- to me and asked if he and his camera had garnered made more people ing teasing from the other jammers crew could film on “old 91”. He aware of Glacier, and they included when I showed up on the 8th at indicated they were filming a special Glacier on their vacation itineraries. Logan Pass wearing shorts - with a for the Travel Channel, had missed Out of LML, this meant buses were 25 mile per hour wind and the tem- their ride at LML, and were hoping always full, and frequently drivers perature at 38 degrees!) they could ride with me (they were following us for several miles, wait- ing for us to stop). I knew this was unusual, but what was the likelihood that someone would buy a big cam- era and a boom mike just so they could get a free jammer bus ride? They boarded, “miked” me, then asked me to talk about the road, the bus, etc. My passengers were good sports about having to hear that again, but I still wasn’t quite sure about the woman up front with me. If she were a Park Service plant, I’d probably really get in trouble. The Travel Channel crew got off at Logan Pass, but not before inter- viewing several of my passengers - including the woman up front with me. I overheard a bit of what she said, and was relieved to hear McDonald Creek during peak August rains. (photo by Chuck Nelson) that she was quite pleased with my handling of the tour.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 7 (Continued from previous page) As we chatted later in the trip, I found out that she and I had attend- ed the same university at the same time, with some shared instructors - and she was not a Park Service plant. (The special eventually aired in April of 2005 as “Extreme Maintenance,” with about 15 seconds of the ride on my bus making it into the piece) Monsoon Season The potential for fire was always in our minds early in the season, and about mid-July it appeared we were starting to get into a dry period. Then the weather changed - dramati- cally. It began raining, and rained virtually every day, often heavily. Some of the peaks near the park got over 20 inches of rain between mid- “Old 91” alongside a Zephyr Dome Car. (photo by Chuck Nelson) July and mid-September, and the park received similar amounts. Pretty locations (like Logan Pass), you sunny, cool fall day, it was a fitting soon visitors weren’t asking about the almost always knew where the bears final tour to a spectacular Glacier fires of 2003, but the flood of 1964. would be (even walking through season. For weeks the canvas top stayed on the packed parking lot). My parents So what did I learn from my two the bus, as tours were drenched. Peo- visited in early September, and of summer seasons as ajammer? First, ple often preferred to stay in the bus course they wanted to see a bear. On no two seasons are the same; there at stops, and I often found myself a PM Crown tour, with them seated is no “normal” summer. Both of my running towels and blankets through right behind me, we had a bear seasons were exceptional. But what dryers at lunch so that passengers emerge from the roadside, walk up would be more comfortable during to the bus, and high-five everyone really makes Glacier special is the tours. Peaks were often cloaked in on the drivers side as I slowly drove opportunity to experience people’s fog, and there were even days when past him (typical driver embellish- reactions to it. As ajammer driver, the visitor center at Logan Pass was ment) - all within 10 minutes of the with over 2000 people on 160 tours not visible from the parking lot. tour start. Although it was a very wet in the two years, I got to see the However, the rains had a plus side. year, 2004 turned into a year that same enchantment in others that I They came just as the huckleberries rained bears as well as water. myself have with Glacier. One of my were ripening, which had a nega- My Final Tour fellow jammers, Robbie Lucke, often told people that he would be ajam- tive impact on the crop. This caused Finally the rain stopped, and another mer even if they didn’t pay him --it bears to move about more in search Glacier fall set in for the final weeks was such a special place, and every of food. As a driver, sighting a bear of the season. My last tour was with day in Glacier was different. I’d have is usually the highlight of a tour. As the kids from West Glacier Elemen- to concur with him. bears began roaming for food, their tary. They were very knowledgeable appearance became more frequent. about Glacier, so instead of lectur- For about a six-week stretch, we ing, I asked questions about Glacier, saw bears on virtually tour. I almost and they scrambled over each other became blase about bears. In some to be the first to answer. A bright,

8 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail A Memorable Trek Over BOULDER PASS By Richard Schwab (Many Glacier power boat. This would spare us the Elrod’s guide gave us an estimate of 1947-52) eight miles of the merciless up and how much further it was to the head down trail along lower Kintla Lake of lower Kintla Lake, and we were Something in one of my letters at a time in the hike when we would acutely aware of how little time was makes me quite sure it was in 1948 be close to done in.. left to make the “accidental’ connec- that Rum Cashman, Bede Clapp, tion with the Kintla ranger and his some other employees, and I went Rum had Elrod’s guide to Glacier, boat. I do not think anyone would on the fabled trek some thirty and that, combined with her ency- have said the last few miles of that miles from Goat Haunt to Kintla clopedic knowledge of the flora and march were pleasant at the time we Lake. The expedition went by way fauna of the park, provided us with were doing it, but it is something of Brown Pass, the Hole-in-the- the best information possible about you look back on with an indulgent Wall Basin, and Boulder Pass – the all the wonders we were seeing, and chuckle. After maybe an hour of ris- wildest, most beautiful, and most the names of the glaciers, lakes, ing anxiety as we hastened painfully spectacular part of the park. There rivers, peaks, and flowers. Also, forward, looking frequently at our is nowhere else in Glacier where you always had a way of coming up with can get such a sense of height on the trails, and there is nowhere else that gives you such an appreciation of There is nowhere else in Glacier where you the vast scale of the mountains and can get such a sense of height on the trails, and valleys. there is nowhere else that gives you such an To take this hike requires a good deal appreciation of the vast scale of the mountains of arranging, and Rum was good at that because she knew so many and valleys. people in the Park. First we had to get transportation to Waterton in time to catch the International a surprise in her backpack, usually watches, we broke out of the woods launch to Goat Haunt, where we something refreshing to eat or drink, at the head of the lake, and we saw camped out overnight. The next day just when we needed it most. It was the tiny boat far down at the end was a marathon trek through the a treat to see the pleasure she took of the lake coming toward us like most stupendous scenery imagin- in the expressions of amazement a miracle. Pretty soon the friendly able. Rum had set it up so that there when she pulled out a huge can of ranger hailed us, and we somehow would be a car at the remote Kintla grapefruit juice, preserved peaches, crowded into the aluminum hold of lake campground to pick us up no or some other fruit. And of course the boat, feeling blessed that we were matter how late we got in, and it what everyone who went on hikes spared that terrible Kintla Lake trail. would convey us back seventy-five to such as this remembers most was I was sufficiently comatose so that I a hundred miles to the hotel in time the laughter and the entertainments do not recall a single thing about the to go to work the next day. In addi- we dreamed up to distract ourselves trip back from Kintla Lake to Many tion, she knew the ranger stationed from flagging energies and sore feet. Glacier in the night nor do I remem- ber who it was that Rum got to pick at lower Kintla Lake, and the two of By the time we had got all the way us up. them had plotted out the possibil- over Boulder pass and down to Up- ity of an “accidental” meeting of our per Kintla Lake we were pretty much group and him when he took his automatons, mechanically put- nightly inspection cruise to the head ting one foot in front of the other. of Kintla in his oversized aluminum

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 9 The Waterton-Glacier International PEACE PARK Unveiling of the bronze tablet that commemorates the International Peace Park 75 Years in the Keeping at the Prince of Wales Hotel, 1951. (photo from Chris Morrison’s collection)

By Chris Morrison [Editor’s Note: Chris Morrison has been writing about Waterton and Glacier for more than 20 years. The present article is adapted from her latest book, Born of a Vizion (2007), published by the Waterton Natural History Association, P.O. Box 145, Waterton Park, AB T0K 2M0.]

The designation of Waterton-Glacier memorate the long-standing peace undoing of jurisdictions and admin- International Peace Park 75 years and goodwill between Canada and istrative operations which had been ago was a remarkable achievement. It the United States. It serves to prove in place for nearly a generation. came about without personal finan- that a place in nature can represent A group of Rotarians is credited with cial gain, without public consultation a concept and to set an example. bringing the peace park to fruition. and without a cent from the gov- Today there are 138 international It began with the 15-member Rotary ernments of Canada or the United peace parks. Club of Cardston, Alberta, located States. Yet it was passed into law on While some may wonder why the 30 miles (48 km) east of Waterton. both sides of the border in an unbe- name is not Glacier-Waterton since These men suggested a get-together at lievably short time—just 11 months. Glacier covers by far the larger por- Waterton’s then-five-year-old Prince Most visitors have no idea of the tion of the 1,720 square miles (4 of Wales Hotel the weekend of July significance of the peace park. Some 455 sq. km) of the peace park, the 4 and 5, 1931. With the help of the believe the name has something to reason goes back to 1931 when the Lethbridge Rotary Club, invitations do with solitude and beauty, some idea was born. were sent out and some 100 Rotar- just don’t think about the name. ians plus their guests from Alberta, Years before, various people had spo- After all, peace is not something the Saskatchewan and Montana accepted. ken of uniting the two parks. Prom- world continuously experiences— inent among them were the legend- The two-nation mountain and lake there’s always some strife somewhere, ary early rangers Albert “Death-on- view from the hotel dining room was whether its enmity between coun- the-Trail” Reynolds of Glacier and said to have been an inspiration for tries or raging between siblings in John George “Kootenai” Brown of the peace park idea. Canada and the the backseat of a car. Waterton. But the obstacles seemed United States had been friends since Waterton-Glacier International enormous with two governments to 1814. A peace park, they said, at this Peace Park, the first in the world, deal with, an international boundary location where two national parks was designated specifically to com- line determined by treaty and the touch, would serve as an “enduring

10 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail monument of nature… to the long- (unsuccessfully) for Congress on the concept. The Canadians were but existing relationship of peace and Democratic ticket three times and needed the Americans to complete goodwill” between the countries. knew many of the state’s most influ- their procedures before they could ential citizens. begin theirs. Before the Saturday night ban- quet was done, these Rotarians had A well-respected member of his The House passed the bill March 7 unanimously passed a resolution: community, Mitchell did not hesi- and the bill moved on to the U.S. tate to approach Congressman Scott Senate. As luck or good planning “Whereas one hundred members of the Leavitt with the peace park idea even would have it, Thomas J. Walsh Rotary Clubs representing the Cities though Leavitt had defeated him in introduced the bill there. Walsh was of Cardston, Lethbridge and Calgary the 1926 election. It did not take an excellent choice. Not only was he of Alberta; Great Falls, Kalispell and much arm twisting for Leavitt to see well-known for his role in uncover- Missoula of Montana, and Estevan, the wisdom of this cause. It was one ing the Tea Pot Dome scandal, he Saskatchewan, are assembled together of benefit to all Americans and was was a Montanan and a Lake Mc- attending an international meeting at sure to reflect well on his political Donald cabin owner. the Waterton Lakes National Park; career in the 1932 election. It was while the bill was in the Sen- “And whereas, it has been decided Leavitt had taken a keen interest in ate that it received opposition from a that a similar annual meeting be held national parks since he had served citizens’ group in North Dakota and alternately at Glacier Park, Montana as treasurer of the National Park Manitoba who had been fund raising and the Waterton National Park, -to-Park Highway Association and and planning an international peace Alberta; “Therefore, be it resolved that the The die was cast. Rotarians on both sides of proper authorities be petitioned to commence negotiations to establish the the border threw themselves into the task. A two parks indicated as a permanent committee comprising 19 men was formed with International Peace Park, which shall Samuel H. Middleton, president of the Cardston be definitely set aside for this laudable purpose; Rotary Club and Harry B. Mitchell of the Great Falls Rotary Club, co-chairing a committee. “Pledging our loyalty and allegiance to foster all international relationships.” participated in its 1920 tour. During garden. The group was on the verge The die was cast. Rotarians on both the 1931 session of Congress Leavitt of seeing their garden come to frui- sides of the border threw themselves sponsored an Approach Roads Act tion and felt the peace park would into the task. A committee compris- which provided funds for roads lead- steal their thunder. ing 19 men was formed with Sam- ing to national parks. Walsh calmed the waters to some uel H. Middleton, president of the The peace park bill served as an degree telling senators that the peace Cardston Rotary Club and Harry B. appropriate addition to his interest park was “just a nice gesture” to- Mitchell of the Great Falls Rotary in national parks but took it an- ward their neighbors to the north. Club, co-chairing a committee. other step. On a very personal level, The opposition was withdrawn and Mitchell started the ball rolling Leavitt placed a high value on peace. since it was apparent that no funds immediately upon his return Great He was a war veteran having served were being sought, senators could Falls. He was just the man for the in the Spanish-American War. breath easy. They passed the bill on April 25, 1932. President Herbert C. job. The Scottish-born Mitchell was On Dec. 8, 1931 he introduced the Hoover signed it into law on May 2. a long-time resident of Montana bill. It would take four months to who knew his way around politics. be passed by Congress, some of that Meanwhile in Alberta, the Rotarians He had been a printer, journalist and time being taken up with quiet con- were optimistically beginning to plan newspaper owner and more recently sultation with Canadian politicians a dedication ceremony even though had served as mayor of Great Falls to ensure they were on side with the the Canadian version of the bill had for several terms. He had also run

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 11 (Continued from previous page) not even been introduced, much less tired Brigadier-General, Stewart had became law on June 16 when it was debated or voted on. The Rotarians served and been decorated in both proclaimed. wanted to hold the ceremony June the Boer War and the First World The Rotarians were able to hold 18 in East Glacier at the Glacier Park War becoming known as the Father their dedication ceremony as Hotel (now Lodge) when a special of Field Artillery. Peace to Stewart planned and even the weather, which train headed to Seattle for a Rotary was everything and while he strongly had been wet, cooperated for the convention would pass through. supported the peace park bill, there event so that thousands were able to was little he could do to move things Samuel H. Middleton, the Canadian witness this historic occasion at East along. co-chair of the peace park com- Glacier. mittee, must have been holding his Middleton, on the other hand, could A follow-up dedication for the Cana- breath. With just seven weeks for do a lot. In view of Stewart’s warn- dian section of the peace park was the Canadian politicians to bring ings about the opposition, Middle- delayed until 1936 because of the this figurative rabbit out of the hat, ton, known for his determination closure of the Prince of Wales Hotel things did not look good for the bill and hard work, was not about to but the Rotarians worked diligently to come to fruition. give up while it was coming down during at four year hiatus to keep the to the wire. He sent telegrams to 20 An Anglican minister known as message of peace alive. Rotary clubs urging them to im- Canon and Indian school principal In 1932, a Canadian cabinet min- The senate passed the bill the same day without ister, First World War veteran and Waterton-area rancher expressed the opposition and it became law on June 16 when it concept best: was proclaimed. “I do not think there could be two opinions in any reasonable man’s north of Cardston, the British-born mediately wire Prime Minister R. mind regarding the International Middleton may have called upon di- B. Bennett in support of the peace Peace Park. The matter has come vine influence. There is no question park. up in cabinet and as our cabinet has the timeline was close to impossible, The clincher came when Middleton among its members more ‘returned’ especially as the peace garden people was personally able to convince the men and men who have lost sons had tried again to get the peace park Member of Parliament from Mani- in the [Great] War than any other initiative delayed or aborted. toba who was favoring the peace cabinet, you can be certain that the Lethbridge Member of Parliament gardeners to back away. strongest possible appeal for peace John S. Stewart, who Middleton had Canadian politicians made a gallant will be made. It is only those of us been in touch with on a weekly basis, effort to complete their job in time. who know what war really means advised “I am of the opinion that you The bill, introduced in the House that can appreciate peace.” have no chance whatever to get your of Commons on May 18 was passed Rotarians meet in odd numbered Waterton-Glacier Peace Park bill on May 25. In the Canadian Senate, years in Waterton and in even num- through the House [of Commons] William A. Buchanan introduced bered years in Glacier, continuing a this year….The main trouble has not the bill May 26. Buchanan, like 75 years tradition of fostering peace been at all with the Government, but Mitchell, had been a journalist and and good will between neighbors. has been entirely brought about by was still a newspaper owner. Like This year’s assembly will be held Sept. these societies… who are holding out Walsh, he was a park cabin owner. 8-9 in at the Prince of Wales Hotel. for the International Peace Garden Buchanan’s Waterton cabin was one being the only Peace Park in Canada of the oldest in the park situated on The full story of Waterton-Glacier In- for some time to come.” Emerald Bay. ternational Peace Park is the subject of a new book, “Born of a Vision,” avail- Stewart was far more than Middle- The senate passed the bill the same able from the Waterton Natural History ton’s representative in Ottawa. A re- day without opposition and it Association ([email protected] ) . 12 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail Epilogue John Stewart (1878- Each of the key players in the establishment of the peace park made a name 1970) ran for re-elec- for himself in his chosen career. tion in 1935 and again in 1940 but Harry B. Mitchell Scott Leavitt (1879- was defeated both (1867- 1955) was 1966) ended his politi- times. He returned appointed presi- cal career when lost his to his career as a Le- dent of the U.S. Congressional seat in thbridge dentist working in that field Civil Service Com- the 1932 election and for a total of 50 years. He received mission by Frank- was unsuccessful in an honorary law degree from the lin D. Roosevelt in his quest for a seat in University of Alberta. The Leth- 1933 and moved to Washington, D. the Senate in 1934. He moved to bridge branch of the Royal Canadian C. It was a job he held for the next Milwaukee in 1935 to begin a new Legion and a local elementary school 18 years and he became known as career working for the U.S. Forest are named in his honor. He died “the conscience of the administra- Service and in 1936 served as the while raking his lawn at the age of tion.” When he retired, Mitchell commander-in-chief of the Untied 92. (photo courtesy of Sir Alexander returned to his dairy farm in Mon- Spanish War Veterans. He retired Galt Museum & Archives) tana. He continued to be very proud from the Forest Service in 1941 and of the part he played in the establish- moved to Oregon where he is bur- William A. ment of the peace park, returning to ied. (photo courtesy of Gene Beal) Buchanan (1876- the annual Rotary gatherings when- 1954) continued ever his schedule allowed. (Photo to serve in the courtesy of Mitchell family) Canadian Senate Thomas J. Walsh until his death. A (1859-1933) was en strong supporter route to Washing- Samuel H. of Waterton Lakes ton D.C. to accept Middleton National Park who on many occa- appointment as (1884-1964) sions served as an intermediary for Attorney General in served Rotary the public dealing with both gov- FDR’s cabinet when as chairman of ernment and park officials, Buchan- he died of a heart the peace park an was known in Ottawa as “the committee for attack. Highly respected by many senator from Waterton” although his 25 years. An Americans throughout the country, home was in Lethbridge, Alberta. archdeacon in the Anglican Church, he was a special friend of the Mon- He is the only politician to have a he retired from his job as principal of tana Blackfeet Indians. Upon his mountain in Waterton named for St. Paul’s Indian Residential School death Walsh was eulogized by Black- him. It is located in the Akamina in 1951 but continued as minister feet Richard Sanderville who said Valley. (Photo courtesy of Sir Alex- at Waterton’s tiny All-Saints Angli- Walsh was “always at his finest….he ander Galt Museum & Archives) can Church. Middleton authored a is always just himself. His creed: To number of small history books that do the best he can.” (photo courtesy had limited distribution in south- of US Senate Historical Office) ern Alberta. A life-long advocate of Waterton Lakes National Park, he was widely known in the region. He is one of only a few non-residents of Waterton to be buried in the Wa- terton cemetery. (photo courtesy of the Ray Djuff collection)

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 13 Waterton Rock Cairns, Plaques and Mysteries By Chris Morrison There are many side stories about the peace park. It is fitting that rocks, in this mountainous heartland, are a subject of several stories. There are the Peace Park cairns, the Rotary rocks and the missing rocks. The Chief The rock cairns located on the Chief Mountain Mountain International Highway International are, without doubt, the most under- Highway cairns, one on each side appreciated man-made monuments of the border, in the parks. Although many visitors are 60 years crossing the border use the cairns for old this year . a photographic background, many (photo by Chris others miss them completely, per- Morrison) haps distracted by the officialdom at the international boundary. erected beyond the border to “carry In the concrete base of each cairn The cairns are really something spe- appropriate information” allowing the is embedded a tiny time capsule of cial. The brain child of the U.S. Park “passage over the International Line to sorts. In the U.S. cairn is a 450-word Service which designed them, the be free and open.” essay written by Emmert, a scroll, a list of those responsible for erec- cairns were an alternative to an arch But the Second World War inter- tion of the cairn and a brief history over the highway at the boundary vened before any plan would be of the peace park and a “K” field that the Rotarians suggested in 1938. finalized and the Chief Mountain ration, a memento of the war. In border crossing was closed for the At the Chief Mountain border cross- the Canadian cairn are stones from interim. In 1947, a year after the ing, the highway pinches down signifi- various mountains, pine cones, war ended and with access to build- cantly and officials felt arches would European coins, a scroll and history ing materials restored, the Rotar- detract from the significance of the of the peace park designation and a ians again took up the idea of some existing boundary markers on the road wartime “ration issue”. sides. A U. S. parks regional landscape symbolic marker at the border. The cairns were dedicated in August, architect suggested wooden signs be The post-war superintendents in each 1947 at a ceremony that included the park, J. W. Emmert in Glacier and first annual “hands-across-the-border” H. A. DeVeber in Waterton, helped pledge recitation. Joining hands across move forward the idea of rock cairns. When a ribbon at the border, those who par- It took two months to complete the “time ticipate speak this pledge in unison: capsules” these impressive cairns which are were built of native stone and measure “In the name of God, we will not take placed in nearly 3.6 metres (12 feet) tall and up arms against each other. We will the cement, a brief and 6.6 metres (22 feet) long. While both work for Peace; maintain liberty; strive private cairns were financed by Rotary Inter- for freedom and demand equal oppor- dedication took place before national, the U.S. cairn was built by tunity for all mankind. May the long the remainder of the cairn a Glacier Park crew and the Canadi- existing peace between our two nations construction continued. an cairn was built by private contrac- stimulate other people to follow this (photo from the Chris Morrison tor Ralph Weston from Cardston. example. We thank thee, O God.” collection)

14 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail erected on a rock at the Waterton Chief Two Guns Visitor Centre. One plaque hon- White Calf inducted ored R. R. Hutchings, a peace park Lady Mander into president and another honored H. the Blackfeet Tribe S. Greenway who held the same in the 1932 Peace Park Dedication position. About three feet tall and Ceremony. (photo weighing several hundred pounds, courtesy of the the plaques and the rock on which Great Northern they were mounted went missing Railway Company sometime at the end of the 20th cen- Records, Minnesota Historical Society) tury. It was not until the book Born of a Vision was produced that Parks Canada officials made a concerted effort to locate the plaques which were finally found in their shop in the spring of 2007. Plans were to return the plaques to members of the Greenway and Hutchings families.

DEDICATION OF THE PEACE PARK The Peace Park was dedicated on June 18, 1932, with ceremonies at the Glacier Park Hotel (now Glacier Park Lodge). As many as 2,000 people gathered in front of the hotel’s western balcony, where the ceremonies were held. Chris Morrison’s Born of a Vision vividly describes the as- semblage of dignitaries: “park officials, Blackfeet Indians in full regalia, 12 Eagle Scouts, 12 King Scouts, and bands and choirs from both countries,” to say nothing of the many government officials and Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Also present for the dedication was Sir Charles Mander of Wolverhamp- ton, England, the director of Rotary International. After the ceremony, the Blackfeet adopted Lady Mander into their tribe. At left, Chief Two Guns White Calf honors Lady Mander with the name of Princess Shining Star Woman.

The cairns, as handsome today as It was not until 1951 and 1952 that they were 60 years ago, are the only the plaques found homes at the park permanent roadside markers com- hotels. Today they can be found at the memorating the peace park. Glacier Park Lodge and the Prince of Wales Hotel chosen for the role the There are, however, other commemo- buildings played in the first meetings. rative rocks. During the 1932 dedi- Subsequently other plaques honor- Archdeacon Samuel H. cation at East Glacier, and the 1936 ing the outstanding work of selected Middleton at the Glacier Park consummation in Waterton, bronze Lodge commemorative rock individual Rotarians were affixed to plaques were unveiled to memorial- after a plaque was unveiled the rocks at each hotel. ize the peace park. The original plan to recognize his service in keeping the Peace Park ideal had been to place the plaques at a The memorial rock idea took on a alive. (photo by Chris Morrison roadside border crossing. But those life and death of its own over time. collection) plans were sidelined for many years. In 1965 and 1967 plaques were

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 15 Renovating Glacier’s Lodges in the 1950s An Interview with Martin Thiede

Photos from the Great Northern Railway files of hotel renovations from the 1950s. (photo courtesy of the Great Northern Railway Company Records, Minnesota Historical Society)

By Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier Corps during World War II, he went could not pay. In order to make 1972-82) to the University of Minnesota on it successful, the company really the G.I. Bill. Ultimately, he became [Editor’s Note: Tessie Bundick, histo- extended itself for its costumers, a certified public accountant. One rian for the Glacier Park Foundation, becoming known for such items as of his clients, the Knutson Company has conducted numerous oral history its fabulous pies and delicious roast of Minnesota, involved in construc- interviews with veteran employees of beef lunches in the Tree Top Room tion, insurance and mortgage bank- the Park. This article is based on an restaurant. They took a routine ing, asked him to work exclusively interview in March 2007 with Mar- hotel and made it a real hit with the for them as Executive Vice President. tin Thiede, who played a key role in public – something special. the history of Glacier’s lodges.] Around 1952, Knutson took over The Great Northern Railway Com- the management of the 109-room Martin Thiede was born in Minne- pany, in 1955, was seeking someone Frederick Martin Hotel in Moor- sota, attending high school in New to operate and make renovations to head, Minnesota, after having built Ulm. After serving in the Army Air its hotel holdings in Glacier National the inn, when the original owner Park, in Montana. They heard of the 16 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail popularity of the Frederick Martin rooms required private bathrooms, the progress of time and the pres- and approached the Knutson Com- that the gift shops had to be ex- sures of the marketplace in this area. pany. panded, that the horseback riding It had other problems to deal with. facility at Many Glacier needed to We, the public, are in the Great During World War II, the historic be considered, that flower gardens Northern’s debt because they even Glacier hotels had been allowed needed work and so on. He realized thought about the relatively small to deteriorate and they desperately that the American traveling public of detail of the Park hotels. needed repairs and modernizing. So the 1950’s expected many more ame- John Budd, the President of the Great Knutson presented a proposal to the nities than the lodges currently of- Northern Board of Directors and Ver- Great Northern, and a budget was fered. Along these lines, there were non Turnburke, Executive Vice-Presi- worked out. The most important considerations about what kind of dent, asked the Knutson Company, projects were hammered out first. It personnel would be needed, what it because of its reputation, to help. took about a year to negotiate all of was all going to cost, and could these the many options. It was to the Great Northern’s credit costs be recouped? Also, what would that they did not just destroy these attract the public to these hard-to- All Renovation work was completed wonderful old lodges, as they rarely reach places? Perhaps entertain- to avoid affecting the guests. Most of saw much profit from them. The ment programs and travel packages? it was carried out during the winter Great Northern officials were espe- Whatever was decided had to be months, using Knutson crew heads cially interested, also, in reducing decided quickly and set into motion, (Roy McClain and Harlan Berntson) the operating deficit being incurred. as, of course, time was money. and workers from local pools. According to Mr. Thiede, Mr. Budd One of the first items on the agenda The food service was one of the and Mr. Turnburke truly loved the was to enlarge the gift shops and most important concerns. A dieti- much-cherished buildings, and sin- cerely desired to see them preserved for future generations. These edifices All Renovation work was completed to avoid consisted of Glacier Park Lodge, affecting the guests. Most of it was carried out Many Glacier Hotel, Lake McDon- during the winter months, using Knutson crew ald Lodge, Swiftcurrent Motor Inn, Rising Sun Motor Inn, Two Medi- heads (Roy McClain and Harlan Berntson) and cine Camp Store and The Prince of workers from local pools. Wales Hotel. Don Knutson (president of Knutson increase the quality of the merchan- cian from Minnesota, Patricia Kilp, Company) himself was very inter- dising by bringing in knowledgeable was hired to standardize operations. ested in the Glacier Park project, but people, such as experts on jewelry. All Glacier butcher operations were Martin Thiede was the one who put The merchandise at Swiftcurrent eliminated and steaks (specifically it together. It was Mr. Thiede whom Motor Inn, for example, was to be portion-sized, pre-fabricated and everyone in this Glacier Park opera- entirely displayed and very little kept inspected) were shipped out by train. tion answered to. He traveled out in storage, as it had been up to that Theretofore, meat had been stored at to the Park several times with Mr. point. The gift shops at Many Gla- the hotels in refrigerators cooled by Budd, never having heard of the ho- cier, the Prince of Wales, Rising Sun, ice surrounded by sawdust. tels before or having been to Glacier. Lake McDonald and East Glacier The suppliers for such items as milk, He toured the buildings, trying to Park Lodge were among those that etc., from such places as Kalispell, get a feel for what was needed, look- were made larger. were kept in place. Bakeries were ing at the overall picture – what was The Knutson Company people real- discontinued and frozen pies and it going to take to make it work and ized that their work was cut out for desserts were brought in by the train- what kind of time frame? them. The Great Northern, as good load. Ms. Kilp established standard, Mr. Thiede observed that the kitch- a firm as it was, was not really look- simplified menus for the dining ens really needed help, that all of the ing towards meeting the challenge of rooms and the employee cafeterias.

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 17 The kitchens were to be completely to display their entertaining talents, had been working summers for the wired for electricity. Knutson even even if they were accounting majors. Great Northern in Glacier since 1955, put into place an early microwave was hired by the Knutson Company Some really great groups of talented oven, a very large appliance called during this period to work full time. employees showed up, including an the Radar Range, which never really It was Mr. Tippet who expanded the assembly of Princeton students who worked that well. At the same time, music programs, especially at Many sang for the guests. A barbershop bars in most of the hotel locations Glacier Hotel, into entertaining pro- ensemble would go down to the were expanded and modernized. ductions known far and wide, during train station at East Glacier to meet The employees were not forgotten, the 1960s, 70s and 80s. the incoming travelers and play in- as some of their housing and eating struments and sing, with drums and Mr. Thiede thoroughly enjoyed his facilities were remodeled. cornets. Some of the shows consist- stay in Glacier Park during the late The same went for housekeeping, ed of musical reviews, lobby chorus ‘50s, bringing his family every year, bed-making and cleaning. These programs, and square dancing with living at Glacier Park Lodge, and operations were to be prescribed by professional callers and recorded taking full advantage of the recre- certain rules. The archaic reserva- music. The young people who ational opportunities of this beauti- ful Rocky Mountain paradise. He The Knutson Company hired a Hollywood wished to emphasize that Mr. Budd and Mr. Turnburke were highly producer by the name of Leighton K. Brill to put intelligent men who believed it was on plays at the hotels. their duty to preserve these hotels and motor inns. They spent millions tions and front desk operations were participated did so for the pure joy to make these edifices in this splen- addressed, as were accounting and of it and did not get paid (except, of did place more pleasant and more payrolls. The idea was to have fewer, course, in applause and experience). modern for the guests. but better, trained personnel, so that The Knutson Company hired a Mr. Thiede believed in the begin- less people would have to be hired Hollywood producer by the name ning that the Great Northern was and housed and fed. Also, central of Leighton K. Brill to put on plays not renovating to sell. This was true laundry operations would be moved at the hotels. Brill had been with although Great Northern had run the to East Glacier Park Lodge. And Rogers and Hammerstein for some facilities for many years under an un- major building projects, such as the twenty years. His was a professional, favorably short-term franchise agree- portico added onto Many Glacier Actor’s Equity assembly, complete ment with the Park Service. Consid- Hotel, were set into motion. with actors from Los Angeles, a stage erable negotiations were undertaken Eugene Laitala, of human resources, manager, a director, a designer, and to lengthen the franchise period to came up with the idea of hiring an assistant stage manager. Tick- permit major capital investments professors from colleges with hotel ets were $3.00 to $.90, and Brill recovery by the Great Northern. schools for the summer. They would and Co. would go to the different But as time went by, the company bring along eager hotel students locations and perform, as all of the did decide to put the lodges on the to gain experience in Glacier Park renovations were proceeding. These market. Selling them turned out to lodges. Mr. Thiede and Mr. Laitala renovations were done during the be very difficult, but the lodges were also wanted to hire young employ- summer, while the guests were pres- finally bought by Mr. Don Hummel ees, mostly college students, with ent, but the main projects were car- of Arizona in 1960. performing talents to entertain ried out during the winter months the guests. Although these musi- using crew heads from Minnesota To this day, Martin Thiede remem- cal programs were already in place, (such as Harlan Berntsen) and crews bers his time in spectacular Glacier they wished to expand on them even mostly from local pools. Park with great fondness and is more. They received a lot of ap- grateful that he was given the oppor- Mr. Ian B. Tippet, who was trained in plications and were able to cull them tunity of being in this special place fine hotel schools in Europe, and who down to young people who wished and helping to preserve these won- derful buildings. 18 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail SWITCHBOARD TALES of the 1970s by John Hagen (Many Glacier 1970-80) the room numbers, rather than into the crawled painfully over to the safety of proper holes below them. But none of the brown tile. In the 1970s, Many Glacier Hotel had the guests behaved indignantly or ut- an old-fashioned switchboard with The switchboard gave rise to occasional tered a word of protest. plugs on cords and long rows of holes mischief. Housekeepers were known to and lights connecting to all the tele- Sometimes guests made colorful calls impersonate guests and call with bogus phones in the hotel. The operators which were long remembered by the errands for the bellmen (“Tell one of picturesquely spent their days manipu- employees. The bellmen roared with those boys in the short pants to git up lating the complicated spaghetti-work laughter over an English visitor who here pronto and quiet down the Dober- of cords and responding to calls of every called to request that his luggage be man pinscher in the next room!”). A description. Mr. Tippet liked to place picked up by a specific bellman whom perennial prank involved coordinating employees from the Deep South in the he described as “the fair, fattish boy.” large numbers of housekeepers to run Front Office, and I have fond memories On another occasion, a guest found from room to room at a prearranged of mellifluous Texas and Georgia voices mice in her room at midnight, vol- moment of the day and pick up all the intoning, “Many Glacier Hotel, may Ah canically telephoned the Front Desk, phones in the hotel. This typically was help you?” was moved to another room, and then done in the late morning, when traf- called again in high dudgeon to request fic in the lodge was slow. It produced The operators fielded all sorts of a wakeup call. The harried night clerk a spectacular planetarium effect, with requests and complaints from guests responded wryly, “Yes, ma’am. We’ll constellations of lights appearing sud- in the rooms. They generally would send some mice up.” denly on the switchboard. The startled scrawl these messages on notepaper operator, snatching up a cord or two to and pass them to the bellmen – calls for ice, cribs, rollaways, and blankets, complaints about heat, noise, plumbing Bellman Jim Donohue masterminded the prank malfunctions, and of course the ubiq- with unusual precision, stepping to the fireplace uitous bats. Once I was handed a note complaining of a FROG IN THE SINK and waving his hand to signal housekeepers – ROOM 405. This seemed extraordi- posted in all the hallways. nary (frogs aren’t often seen in Glacier, and if one had somehow crept into the lodge, you wouldn’t think to find it on The operators had a close relationship plug into a hole, wouldn’t know where fourth floor). Sure enough, the “frog” with the bellmen, due to the constant to begin. proved to be a bat, sitting in the drain interchange of errand notes. Occasion- An escapade of this sort took place in like a soldier in a foxhole with his head ally there were testy episodes (typically 1975. Bellman Jim Donohue mas- just peeping out. The guests let it be when tours kept the bellmen away from terminded the prank with unusual known that they would have been hap- the desk and errand notes piled up, precision, stepping to the fireplace and pier with a frog. prompting cranky calls from impatient waving his hand to signal housekeep- guests). A different sort of confronta- ers posted in all the hallways. The Another daily chore for the operators tion occurred one day in 1974, when operator, Owen Anderson, leaped out was to make wakeup calls. The Bell- two bellmen (Chris “Wizard” Vick and of his chair and backed against the men’s Log of 1975 records an episode Tim Vadheim) were teasing an opera- rooming board as the lights appeared where Cheri Hinrichs, the early-morn- tor during an idle hour. The operator before him. Owen was the lead actor ing maid, was allowed to make the 6 sharply demanded, “Get off the green in that summer’s musical (“110 in the AM calls. Cheri went down the list tile and back on the brown tile where Shade”) and had a highly expressive of room numbers, crisply punching in you belong!” (In those days the lobby face. Rolf Larson, enjoying the prank at plugs and announcing sweetly, “Good floor was tiled, and most of the Front the bellmen’s desk, remarked to Owen, morning, it’s 6 AM!” Groggy voices Office floor had green tile, while the “Your eyes got bigger until they couldn’t repeatedly grunted back, “Thank you!” bellmen’s desk had brown). Chris and grow any more, and then your mouth After a dozen calls or so, Cheri suddenly Tim glanced down with expressions of did the same thing!” realized that she had been arousing the horror, exclaimed, “Green tile?! Aughh!! wrong guests! She had been sticking It’s kryptonite!,” fell to the floor and switchboard plugs into the holes above

The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 19 THE BUBBLE QUEENS of Many Glacier Hotel

The Bubble Queens, Barbara Burrets Loeffler and Elaine Bishop at Granite Park Chalet. (photo courtesy of Barbara Burrets Loeffler)

by Barbara Burrets Loeffler (Many Glacier was issued to me when I served in the P.M. – leaving the balance of the after- 1947) WAVES (US Navy). noon to hike around the area or even take a nap or a swim. We never had to My friend Elaine and I were interviewed The dormitory was not ready for the work later than 5:00 P.M. On the days by Mr. Omar Ellis at the Great Northern new employees as yet so we were berthed where we were done by noon, we could Railway general offices in St. Paul, Min- in the hotel itself. The battle between us even get in a hike up to Iceberg Lake nesota. He offered us three categories of “newbies” and the mice began in earnest. and return before supper. jobs, namely waitress, chamber maid, or Once we had the mice under control, laundry worker. He carefully explained more or less, we went to work on the About the only thing that interrupted the responsibilities of each position. wind that was blowing right into the our efforts at the tubs and mangle room. A little chinking here and there would be an occasional fire drill if it was We chose the laundry position because it reduced the forces of Mother Nature near the laundry. was the cleanest. Waitresses had to work down to something we could handle. split shifts, and I could not see myself We were favored employees of Mr. Ellis We ascertained that the mice were after cleaning up after other people for three who knew that if we did not supply the the candy bars that we had purchased months – no way! rooms with fresh linens daily, he would down at Thronson’s in Babb. have to face some mighty unhappy Mr. Ellis further inquired of us if we We ate in the main dining room until guests in the lobby of his hotel!!!! were going out to the park to make the hotel was opened on June 15. By money or just have fun next summer. In recent years all the laundry from the this time we had occupied bedrooms in Honestly speaking I said “a little bit of hotels and the cabin camps has been the dormitory, and there were no longer both, Mr. Ellis.” He hired us on the processed at headquarters down at breezes blowing through the rooms. spot for a June 1 departure. Glacier Park Lodge. This plant con- About ¾ of these college girls had never tains large capacity modern equipment I will never forget my first glimpse of had an iron in their hands, but they all where the Bubble Queens and Bubble the snow-covered mountains of Gla- were fast learners. Mr. Selvala was in Kings (Equal Opportunity Employer) cier National Park. Not too many charge of the laundry. He was a kindly now work in two shifts to handle the mountains in Minnesota where I was older man who went to great lengths to mountains of dirty sheets, towels, and born and raised. About an hour later help us with our new responsibilities. tablecloths that come through the front the train pulled into the station where door daily. we were met by a big red bus which One of the best things about this job transported us to Many Glacier Hotel. was our working hours. We started right The “esprit d’ corps” is probably not in There was still lots of snow around and after breakfast at 8:00 A.M. and worked evidence like it was when I was one of it was a bit chilly! We were glad we until noon when we broke for lunch. those Bubble Queens and for sure the had taken extra sweaters with us as well The employee dining room was located view out the windows of that building as mittens. I even had a top coat that directly above us. Depending on the are nowhere as inspiring! workload, we were often done by 2:30 20 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail Softball in Glacier in 1927 By Dan Hays (Glacier Park Transport, – i.e. hit fly balls landing on the Some of these were the best pitchers 1927-41) roof of Garage No. 1 or 2, which seen during the summer, suggest- were very difficult or impossible to ing that they pitched softball in the I do not know when this series began field, were automatic “two-baggers” winter as well as the summer! Some or when it ended, but during the instead of probable “home-runs.” came so consistently and stayed at summers from 1927 to 1941 it was the hotel so long, that I wonder if a highly appreciated part of East The quality of the players seemed this was their motivation for coming Glacier’s summer evening activities. close to equal but the Hotel Compa- to Glacier Park. (Is my prejudice The weekly game was played at the ny fielded a more consistent team, as showing?) The officials were also Transport Company, on the vehicle crucial “gearjammers” on the Trans- usually hotel guests. Possibly due to parking area between the company port Team might be spending game some of these factors, it is my im- office and the dormitory. Home plate nights at other sites in the park. The pression that in most years the Hotel (and a screen back-stop) was directly “hotel” team also claimed the right Company clearly won the series! in front of the driver’s dormitory en- to include hotel guests, as well as trance. The bats and catcher’s equip- employees on their roster. ment were kept in the dormitory. The game began as soon as possible I do not know when this series began or when after dinner, with the hotel team arriving on the field in their own it ended, but during the summers from 1927 trucks accompanied by a cloud of to 1941 it was a highly appreciated part of East dust and the loud cheers of their Glacier’s summer evening activities. supporters! Special rules applied Softball in Glacier in 1936 By John Turner (Gearjammer 1936-41) The softball rivalry between the Hotel Employees I remember Dan Hays – we all and the Gearjammers was something we looked called him Danny. He is Howard’s younger son, and I believe he was a forward to every year. There were lots of skinned teenager during my first summer in knees and elbows resulting from the dirt-gravel 1936. His older brother, Tim, was parking lot where we played. the agent at Sun Camp for a couple of years when it was a “stop point” was something we looked forward Harvey O’Phelan was the star of between East Glacier, McDonald to every year. There were lots of the Hotel team. He was one of the and Many Glacier. It is a shame that skinned knees and elbows result- greatest guys I ever knew! He was they no longer have chalet accom- ing from the dirt-gravel parking lot head porter at East Glacier for years, modations there. It is one of the where we played. We had our best while attending the University of most spectacular vistas in the park. Gearjammer team in 1937…..En- Minnesota and medical school. I During my time there were some nard Dogget catcher….Gene Niblo saw Harvey in the 1980s while visit- couples who spent every summer at third….Earl Wetzel at second… ing Mary’s family in Minneapolis, season at Sun Camp. I think Danny John Turner at first…. Jack McFar- and we had a ball reminiscing about was an agent for a few summers be- land at short… George McCon- those great summers in Glacier. You fore they razed the chalet structure. nell in left field… and a rotation of may know that he became a well The softball rivalry between the Ho- pitchers and other fielders whose known orthopedic surgeon in the tel Employees and the Gearjammers names I don’t recall. Twin Cities. The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 21 A Memorial to Dick Fossum By Chet Bowers (Gearjammer 1941 things in perspective, even under dis- Arriving at the Kootenai Lakes we and 1946) tracting circumstances – you know! enjoyed big Brook Trout fishing and the occasional meeting with moose, Oh Foss! How we will miss you! The five mile hike to Crypt Lake was before getting in the boat for the 3 Your great sense of humor enjoyed an experience – occasional meet- hour trip to Waterton – a long day! on so many adventures in grand ings with black bears, the climb up old Waterton, Glacier, and other to and through the tunnel, looking These shared expeditions, especially parts of our favorite state and prov- out for bear scat, and the superb those including our very fortunate ince; your booming bass voice cutthroat fishing. Then followed wives, Rosie and Maida, enabled us leading the “troop” up to Crypt or a downhill dash to the Crypt boat to impart to our kids the beauty of Carthew Lakes, and your projection landing where Slim would pick us nature in God’s creations. As old age of warmth and love for family and up and deliver us to the other shore creeps up on us we realize that qual- friends will never be forgotten. in time to make it to the pub to ity of life and the number of years I was fortunate to be one of Dick’s enjoy the great Canadian health on this earth are, usually, inversely best friends when we both had sum- beverage, the “Redeye” (draft beer proportional. Dick recently was mer jobs at Glacier Park in 1946. He and tomato juice). Squish Parke, feeling the effects of a very limited with the Hotel Company and me who lived in Waterton, could always lifestyle – we are glad that he de- with the Transport Company. From be counted on to join us or point us parted comfortably, and is now free that time on we shared great fish- in the right direction. of pain and frustration. ing and hiking experiences, even to Another memorable trip involved a P.S. I know he’s up there scouting include our respective honeymoons at small inboard dinghy with a putt-putt the streams and lakes and is waiting Waterton – he and Rosie in 1955 and engine which moved us down the 11 to show me where the big ones are. Maida and me in 1956 – got to keep mile lake at about 4 knots per hour.

Dick poses for his friend Chet in front of one of the ‘Grand Old Reds’. (photo courtesy of Chet Bowers).

22 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail A Memorial to Heinz Janning [Editor’s Note: Heinz Janning, a bell- chalet, the marmots chewing into your No. 2: HEBER [JEEBERS] JENTZCH: man at Many Glacier from 1958-60, backpack near Ptarmigan Tunnel. Happily married to a cute little German died recently after a long battle with girl, you, Hebe, are trying to teach your So go my friend and until we meet again, cancer. Heinz was an accomplished child to finger a “C” chord. You are my love and my thanks for coming to fill musician who played trombone and near the top of the folk-song singer pile, my life at that time those many years ago. accordion. He graduated from St. Olaf still trying to sell “Ol’ Sinner Man.” College after his summers in Glacier, I will keep those good moments with me served in the Army, and became a Ger- always and you are known to my wife No. 3: JOHN [ROADRUNNER] man teacher at Redwood Falls High jane, as the picture of the sheer cliff of MULROONEY: John, you are a School in Minnesota. Shortly before his Gould where you held my feet hangs on professional athlete, running roads like death, he was elected to the Redwood my wall today as it has for years. crazy. You are executive director for Roadrunner cartoons. Falls Hall of Fame. Some of Heinz’s fel- Heinz’s Predictions for Fellow Bell- low bellman contributed recollections of men, by John Mulrooney (Many Glacier No. 4: JACK [THE RIPPER] COONI- him for this issue.] 1957-63) HAN: You have just completed a tour of your homeland (Ireland) as “Johnny Climbing Mount Gould, by Rev. Heber I remember Heinz as the always-upbeat Appleseed” and have planted hundreds Jentzsch (Many Glacier 1959) bellman no. 6 who kept the rest of us of tons of potatoes for the starch-fam- entertained between “fronts” by his My dear good friend Heinz, ished Irish. comical voices and antics. At the end Somewhere there is a cairn containing of the 1959 season, Heinz declared that No. 5: JIM AITKEN: Jim, you are notes that you and I wrote when we the bellman crew should get together still making your yearly trip to Glacier, climbed Mt. Gould. I still have photos I again ten years later at the Palmer wanting to make “bellman” your career, took of that climb. Remember the four House in Chicago, to reminisce about and still trying to get up Mt. Wilbur. others who started with us and stopped that wonderful summer. He entrusted No. 6: Later. “Now do you see why I climb mountains?” No. 7: RICHARD WATKINS: You are a hermit living in Africa by yourself with a I understood. baby grand piano, writing church music and music for the pygmies to dance to. because two had “mountain fever?” We me with the enclosed “Predictions for got to the top. Coming over that last 10” to be revealed at that meeting. No. 8: WAYNE HOLSMAN: You still ridge and the feeling of exhilaration fish a lot with your seven children. As we went our separate ways, engag- when we reached the top. I felt it and ing in pursuits other than the wearing No. 9: GRANT NELSON: Still learn- so did you. You turned to me and said, of lederhosen to make a living, I’m not ing, still getting degrees, you, Grant, “Now do you see why I climb moun- aware that the reunion ever took place. are working in Washington, D.C. … tains?” I understood. Then you held Only recently did I revisit and open the for the underground. However, due my feet while I leaned over the edge and envelope containing Heinz’s forecasts to your calmness and cool nerves, this made a shot of the valley thousands of and felt you might appreciate them in doesn’t bother you. feet below that sheer cliff. You said to your always-looked-forward-to journal me then, “Wow. You are trusting that I No. 10: GLEN [CECIL B.] SMITH: dedicated to the preservation of Glacier would not let you go.” You held my life A bachelor, Glen, you are the head of Park and its facilities. in your hands at that time. some miserable commonwealth on the PREDICTIONS FOR 10 East Coast, still promoting Heber and There were other moments. You and I (OPEN IN AUGUST 1969) “Ol’ Sinner Man.” putting on entertainment for the tours when the weather was bad and they No. 1: TOM FRANCIS: Tom, you No. 6: I, HEINZ JANNING, am still could not venture out. You helping me are happily married and have two tall operating a gas pump at Milton Junc- with my German and teaching me more children. You are in your profession, tion. However, it is a going concern German songs. I can still feel the path busily pulling molars left and right and and I may someday own the pump. I beneath our feet running through the making people say “Ah” with a mouth- make many trips to Lima Center, still forests to catch the boat to Waterton, ful of Hershey’s chocolate. Oh, by the looking for a wife and kids, still trying the fact that we missed the grizzly attack way, you have just signed up for a world to get a local party to climb Mt. Everest, on the pack train after coming down tour …. with Cook’s! but with no luck … I may go up alone! from Mt. Gould and heading for the The Inside Trail ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ 23 The Red Eagle Fire of 2006

By Don Loeffler (Glacier Park Lodge, Swiftcurrent, Many Glacier 1940-42, 46-48) While we watched the flames advance down to the The road between Cut Bank Camp- lakeshore, a helicopter arrived in front of us. ground and St. Mary had been closed by the fire authorities, so we had to detour from Glacier Park ervation. The asphalt and the guard worried it might be for evacuation Lodge where we had been staying, rails were actually on fire. purposes, but that was not to be. It took off almost as soon as it landed over to Browning. The detour took We drove west on the Going-To- us north on the Duck Lake road to and went down to the lake for a bag- The-Sun highway to the Rising ful of water to dump on the fire. Babb. After a stop for Dove Bars Sun Cabin Camp. All the while we at Thronson’s, we proceeded south. hoped our long-standing reservations By now the fire was advancing We passed the Chewing Blackbones would still be intact. They were not. up the northwest slope of Divide Blackfeet Indian campground, which After realizing a computer error had Mountain. Chris Peterson of The had been completely taken over by been made, the reservation clerk Hungry Horse News got some great firefighters. made a room available in the motel pictures from where we were just This incident camp was a complete – complete with a front row view of after sunset. city with dozens of pop-tents, large the fire. I went over to a wall-mounted fire semi-truck food handling vans, first By this time the forest across the lake extinguisher to make sure it was in aid units, shower and toilet units, was burning intensely and presented good working order. It was. My wife and even a media tent station for the a real threat if the firestorm leaped Barbara said “Thank goodness. I feel fifth estate. Space was cordoned off over to our side of the lake by cross- so much safer now.” for the water dropping helicopters. ing at the narrows. A change in Fortunately the wind died down Evacuation was proceeding at Hugh wind direction could cause this to and the fire did not jump across the Black’s and the highway was closed happen. lake. We departed the next morning at that point. The sheriff said that While we watched the flames ad- and drove over Logan Pass with the the fire had jumped the road and vance down to the lakeshore, a sun partially obscured by the smoke was burning eastbound into the res- helicopter arrived in front of us. We – giving the landscape an eerie cast.

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www.glacier- parkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415. An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulat- ing to a Lifetime membership in five installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100. The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonprofit corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent per- mitted by law.

(Panorama by Christine Baker)

24 ☐ Summer 2007 ☐ The Inside Trail