100 Years of Climbing in Yosemite

Home , Jim Bridwell, John Long (climber), John Salathe, Lynn Hill, Steph Davis, Todd Skinner

Inspired by the freedom and challenges of mind and body to move through vertical wildernesses, climbers have taken on seemingly impossible ascents to redefine what is possible. A century’s worth of stories and accomplishments would fill volumes; here are just a few significant milestones and moments in Yosemite’s rich climbing history. 1933 Lunch Ledge, on Washington Column, was the first modern roped climb by SIERRA CLUB ROCK CLIMBING SECTION members on September 2, 1933. They used ten-inch nails to stand on for direct aid.

Returning the next spring, on April 15, 1934, BESTOR ROBINSON, DICK LEONARD, and JULES EICHORN ascend Higher Cathedral Spire. In August, they climb Lower Cathedral Spire. Sierra Club rock climbing trip, Labor Day Weekend 1933. YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION YCA TO PROVIDE

YCA TO PROVIDE

YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION Drawing of Lower Cathedral Spire by DORIS LEONARD in 1934.

Visitation to Yosemite Valley decreases dramatically in the 1940s when the United States enters World World II; many young climbers dreams are put on YOSEMITE CLIMBING Sierra Club instructions for roped climbing. ASSOCIATION COLLECTION hold as they enlist in the armed services. Sketch by DICK LEONARD illustrating arrangement of pitons on the summit pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire, April 1934.

YCA TO PROVIDE

CHAD PREFERS THE OTHER PENCIL SKETCH BY DORIS

YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION

Visitation to Yosemite Valley decreases dramatically in the 1940s when the United States enters World World II; many young climbers dreams are put on YOSEMITE CLIMBING Sierra Club instructions for roped climbing. ASSOCIATION COLLECTION hold as they enlist in the armed services. 1947 1955 JOHN SALATHÉ and AX NELSON Jerry Gallwas stand on the north rim following belays during a their ascent of Lost Arrow reconnaissance of Chimney on Labor Day, 1947. Half Dome.

YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION

JERRY GALLWAS COLLECTION WARREN HARDING, JERRY GALLWAS, ROYAL ROBBINS, and DON WILSON following an attempt at Half Dome.

JERRY GALLWAS COLLECTION 1957

June 29, 1957: YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION Telegram sent by Postcard from John Salathé Jerry Gallwas to to John Thume summarizes his mother after his ascent of Sentinel Rock completing the first in July, 1950. 1950 ascent of Half Dome. JERRY GALLWAS COLLECTION 1958

November 12, 1958: WARREN HARDING, WAYNE MERRY, and The front page of the San Francisco GEORGE WHITMORE complete the first ascent of El Capitan, Chronicle on November 13, 1958 after more than a year’s worth of effort. Many others were heralding the first ascent of El Capitan. involved in the accomplishment, including BILL “DOLT” FEURER, The story details the difficult final pitch, who designed much of the equipment used on the climb. made during the subfreezing night.

PHOTO BY GEORGE WHITMORE Warren Harding ascending YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION with ropes on the West Face of Leaning Tower.

Some of the tools used on the first ascent of El Capitan.

PHOTO BY BILL FEURER 1969

YOSEMITE MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL AND GUIDE SERVICE (YMS) is established by Wayne Merry.

Still in operation, YMS offers lessons and guide services for climbers and hikers

YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION of all ability levels.

Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley by 1964 STEVE ROPER is published, offering detailed route descriptions and diagrams, while addressing climbing

etiquette and ethics. YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION In the 1970s, many Americans sought to reconnect with nature. Some free-spirits left their everyday lives to dedicate themselves to rock climbing.

PHOTO CREDIT BILLY WESTBAY, JIM BRIDWELL, and JOHN LONG after the first one- day ascent of the Nose in 1975.

YOSEMITE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION COLLECTION 1974

GALEN ROWELL documents an early clean climb of Half Dome’s Northwest Face in the June 1974 issue of National Geographic magazine. This was the first hammerless ascent of a Big Wall climb. 1977

BARB EASTMAN and MOLLY HIGGINS stand RICK CASHNER on top of El Capitan after making the first all- and JOHN BACHAR female ascent of The Nose. The pair completed free soloing the climb in 7 days. “Reed’s Direct” in 1982.

PHOTO BY BLITZO. COURTESY OF DEAN FIDELMAN 1982 YCA TO PROVIDE VERIFY CREDIT

THE STONEMASTERS, a loosely organized tribe of young climbers, formed in the 1970s when many members were still teenagers. They honed their skills in Southern California, principally at Tahquitz, Suicide Rocks, and Joshua Tree, and made great achievements in Yosemite throughout the 1980s and 1990s. Unofficially led by Jim Bridwell, some of the members included Dale Bard, Dean Fidelman, Lynn Hill, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Ken Yager, and John Long. COURTESY OF THE EASTMAN COLLECTION LYNN HILL makes the coveted first free ascent 1993 of El Capitan in 1993 and sets the record for the first free ascent in less than 24 hours in 1994.

YCA TO PROVIDE She is quoted as saying: “Just because you get to the top doesn’t mean that you should celebrate your success. It’s how you get there

that’s really very important.” VERIFY CREDIT

PHOTO BY BACHER

PHOTO CREDIT

MARK WELLMAN becomes the first paraplegic to ascend El Capitan (and Half Dome in 1991), accompanied by

Mike Corbett. He lost use of his legs MAYBE REMOVE? 7 years prior when he fell 100 feet (30 meters) off a mountain in the Sierra Nevada. Mark later became a paralympian, innovator in the adaptive climbing world, and inspiration for future parapalegic climbers. 1989 Early climbers such as Marjorie Bridge (Farquar), Olive Dyer, Doris Corcoran (Leonard), Mildred Bennett, set the stage for a long tradition of female Yosemite climbers.

Following Lynn Hill’s ascent of The Nose many climbers including Steph Davis, Chelsea Griffi, Kelly Perkins, Kate Rutherford, Heid Wertz, Hazel Findlay, Mari Grengri, Mary Braun, and Bev Johnson have been of some of Yosemite’s most accomplished climbers.

250 PPI, BUT IT’S THE BEST IMAGE, PASSABLE

Austrian climber, 2009 BABSI ZANGERL has free climbed four routes The ASK-A-CLIMBER National Park on El Capitan including Service program begins, providing The Nose. This photo deeper insight into Big Wall climbing shows her making the for visitors. Experienced climbers second free ascent of with telescopes offer a closer view Magic Mushroom with of climbers on El Capitan and answer Jacopo Larcher. climbing-related questions. PHOTO BY FRANCOIS LEBEAU PHOTO BY VIKKI GLINSKII Early climbers such as Marjorie Bridge (Farquar), Olive Dyer, Doris Corcoran (Leonard), Mildred Bennett, set the stage for a long tradition of female Yosemite climbers.

THIS IS PRETTY GOOD

PHOTO BY RYAN KELLY

NOT A VERY GOOD IMAGE

NPS PHOTO

TOMMY CALDWELL makes the first free NEED HIGH RES, NO WATERMARK ascent of the southeast face of El Capitan, known as “The Dawn Wall.” He has free climbed nine different El Capitan routes including several first free ascents. NEED HIGH RES, NO WATERMARK An earlier generation of El Cap free climbers including Lynn Hill, Thomas Huber, Alex PHOTO BY JIMMY CHIN Huber, Paul Piana and Todd Skinner set the ALEX HONNOLD makes the first free solo stage for climbers like ascent of El Capitan, completing the Freerider 2017 Tommy and others. 245 PPI route in 3 hours and 56 minutes. PHOTO BY SAM CROSSLEY International Climbers Make their Mark

The Huber Brothers (Alex and Thomas) established What is the Freerider on El Capitan in 1998, an extremely the future of popular free climbing variation to the Salathé Yosemite Climbing? Wall. These German brothers also established free climbing variations on Climbers continue to break barriers and climb routes El Cap including El Corazon, more efficiently and in better style. Some say the Golden Gate, The Free perfect climb is a route that leaves no trace or evidence Zodiac, and others. of a climber, and allows future climbers to get the same wilderness experience as the first ascent team. Other international climbers like Yuji Hirayama, Keita Kuramaki, Pete Whittaker, JACOPO LARCHER, and Babsi Zangerl continue the tradition of cutting edge free climbing on El Capitan. PHOTO BY FRANCOIS LEBEAU