El Capitan, Golden Gate, One-Day Free Ascent

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

AAC Publications El Capitan, Golden Gate, One-Day Free Ascent California, Yosemite National Park On November 4, Emily Harrington (USA) became the first woman to free El Capitan’s Golden Gate (ca 38 pitches, 5.13a) in a single day, the fourth person to free this route in a day, and the fourth woman to free climb any route on El Cap in a day. Golden Gate, freed by Alexander and Thomas Huber in October 2000, shares the same line as Freerider before breaking off to the right from El Cap Spire (and after the notorious Monster Offwidth). A one-day ascent is notably difficult as the route’s hardest pitches are all in the last ten. Harrington first redpointed Golden Gate over six days in 2015, and returned in November 2019 to attempt an in-a-day ascent. On November 24 she took a serious fall while simul-climbing the Freeblast slabs low on the route, resulting in a rescue and a trip to the hospital, though she avoided serious injury. On her successful ascent in 2020, Harrington took another serious fall, on the Golden Desert pitch, and hit her head. Though she had a deep gash on her forehead, she persevered through the remaining pitches and topped out the route after 21 hours and 13 minutes. Previous one-day free ascents of El Cap by women included Lynn Hill’s ground-breaking climb of the Nose (harder than Golden Gate) in 1994 and two ascents of Freerider (generally considered easier overall than Golden Gate) by Steph Davis and Mayan Smith-Gobat. — Andy Anderson Images Article Details Author Andy Anderson Publication AAJ Volume 63 Issue 95 Page Copyright Date 2021 Article Type Climbs and expeditions.

Copy Link

Recommended publications

Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important.
[Show full text]
Ascents in the Karavshin Valley. Eight Members of the North Face
Karavshin Valley Ascents in the Karavshin Valley. Eight members of The North Face Climbing Team spent three and a half weeks between July 10 and August 6 in Kirghizstan climbing in a spectacular region of the Pamir Alai range com monly referred to as the Ak-Su. Knowledgeable Russian climbers informed us that the name “Ak-Su,” meaning “white water,” simply refers to various rivers and specific summits and that the area is correctly called the Karavshin region. The members of the team included Conrad Anker, Greg Child, Lynn Hill, Jay Smith, Kitty Calhoun-Grissom, Dan Osman, Chris Noble and me. Russian climbers first visited the Karavshin in 1987, holding competi tive climbing events on a number of the huge granite towers. Chasing rumors of excellent granite formations in a hospitable climate, Europeans began climbing there in the early 1990s, putting up a number of long difficult free climbs. I spoke with only one other American climber (Tom Hargis) who had firsthand knowledge of the area; Tom had made several trips to the region in the company of a group of Russian climbers from St. Petersburg. This very active group has been primarily responsible for many of the more recent and harder climbs and consequently they provide the most current information on what has and has not been climbed. Unfortunately, this infor mation has not been written down and must be gathered from the notes and recollections of numerous individuals. As a result, a complete record of climbs in the area is difficult to compile. Armed with only sketchy informa tion ferreted from various French journals combined with a few references appearing in American and British magazines, we arrived to discover that nearly all of the major peaks and faces had routes established on them already.
[Show full text]
North America 1993
H ADAMS CARTER North America 1993 Alaska Apparently not much of note was done on Denali (Mt McKinley) in 1993. Mark Leffler and Robert Schneider made the second ascent of the route pioneered in 1991, solo, by the late Miroslav Smid on the western side of the S face (Smid died in a fall in Yosemite in the autumn of 1993). Four young Frenchmen, Xavier Cret, Robin Molinatti, Pierre Rizzardo and Paul Robach, made the second ascent of the Ridge ofNo Return, which ends at 4575m on the S buttress. Renato Casarotto had taken 12 days to do the climb solo. The French climbed the vertica12000m in only three days. Speed ascents seem to be fashionable. Brad J9hnson climbed solo to the N sum mit and back from the 5250m camp in 3hrs 40min. Michael Kennedy and Greg Child made a remarkably fast ascent of the W face of Mt Huntingdon by the difficult Quirk-Nettle route, flying in on 15 May and out on the 19th. A party that landed a week later, hoping also to climb the route, was chased from its camp by a 'hopelessly misplaced bear', who ate up all their food. Nearby, the SE face of Royal Tower in Little Switzerland, was climbed by Peter Haeussler and Lloyd Miller. A British Armed Services party made the second ascent of the long and quite difficult Archangel Ridge of Foraker. Paul Edwards and David Peel got to the summit on 26 April, but because of frostbite they had to be heli coptered out. British climbers Geoff Hornby and David Barlow made the first ascent of Pt 10,920 (2765m, 'Thunder Mountain'), just south of McKinley.
[Show full text]
2010 Metolius Climbing 2
2010 METOLIUS CLIMBING 2 It’s shocking to think that it’s been twenty-five years since we cranked up the Metolius Climbing machine, and 2010 marks our 25th consecutive year in business! Wow! Getting our start in Doug Phillips’ tiny garage near the headwaters of the Metolius River (from where we take our name), none of us could have envisioned where climbing would be in 25 years or that we would even still be in the business of making climbing gear. In the 1980s, the choices one had for climbing equipment were fairly limited & much of the gear then was un-tested, uncomfortable, inadequate or unavailable. Many solved this problem by making their own equipment, the Metolius crew included. 3 (1) Smith Rock, Oregon ~ 1985 Mad cranker Kim Carrigan seen here making Much has changed in the last 2 ½ decades since we rolled out our first products. The expansion we’ve seen has been mind-blowing the 2nd ascent of Latest Rage. Joined by fellow Aussie Geoff Wiegand & the British hardman Jonny Woodward, this was one of the first international crews to arrive at Smith and tear the and what a journey it’s been. The climbing life is so full of rich and rewarding experiences that it really becomes the perfect place up. The lads made many early repeats in the dihedrals that year. These were the days metaphor for life, with its triumphs and tragedies, hard-fought battles, whether won or lost, and continuous learning and growing. when 5.12 was considered cutting edge and many of these routes were projected and a few of Over time, we’ve come to figure out what our mission is and how we fit into the big picture.
[Show full text]
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1.
[Show full text]
The American Alpine Club Guidebook to Membership Alpinist Magazine
THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP ALPINIST MAGAZINE ith each print edition of Alpinist, we aim to create a work of art, paying attention to every detail— from our extended photo captions to our carefully Wselected images and well-crafted stories. Inside our pages, we strive to offer our readers an experience like that of exploratory climbing, a realm of words and images where they can wander, discover surprising new viewpoints, and encounter moments of excitement, humor, awe and beauty. By publishing the work of climbers from a wide range of ages, technical abilities, nations and cultures—united by their passion for adventure and wild places—we hope to reflect and enhance the sense of community within the climbing life. Over time, back issues have become collectors’ items, serving as historical references and ongoing inspirations. Like our readers, we believe that great writing and art about climbing demand the same boldness, commitment and vision as the pursuit itself. JOIN US. Exclusive AAC Member Pricing 1 Year - $29.95 | 2 Years - $54.95 Alpinist.com/AAC ALPINIST IS A PROUD PARTNER OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB Stay Connected! @AlpinistMag @Alpinist @AlpinistMag ALP_2019_AAC Ad FIN.indd 1 6/26/19 4:14 PM WELCOME, ALL 5 You Belong Here ARTIST SPOTLIGHT 8 Brooklyn Bell on Art for the In-betweens MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENS 10 Inspiration, Delivered Directly NAVAJO RISING 23 An Indigenous Emergence Story WHEN WOMEN LEAD 27 Single Pitch Instructors for the 21st Century GLACIAL VIEWS 29 A Climate Scientist Reflects & Other Research Stories CLIMBERS FOR CLIMATE 32 Taking a Stand on Climate Change, Together 1CLIMB, INFINITE POTENTIAL 34 Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building Them ON PUSHING 37 24 Hours Into the Black, the AAC Grief Fund AN ODE TO MOBILITY 40 The Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi YOSEMITE'S CAMP 4 43 The Center of the Climbing Universe REWIND THE CLIMB 47 The Tragedy of the 1932 American K2 Expedition BETA 48 Everything a Club Member Needs to Know PARTING SHOT 72 Jeremiah Watt on Travel & Life a Greg Kerzhner climbing Mr.
[Show full text]
Rise of the Rock Clones • These Days You Don't Have to Stalk the Wilds to Climb Some of the Sport's Most Popular Rocks, Reports Shermakaye Bass
Rise of the rock clones • These days you don't have to stalk the wilds to climb some of the sport's most popular rocks, reports Shermakaye Bass. It's a whole new wall game. Shermakaye Bass - February 1, 2005 As fielding posson approaches the Feather, a notoriously hard bouldering route at Hueco Tanks State Park in Texas, he visualizes the sequence of moves, imagining each foothold, hand pocket and ridiculous undercling. Then he mounts, climbing quickly and fluidly, powering out from the deep hollow at the boulder's base, to the massive bulge with its slopey pockets, and up to the head wall, with its fossil-like feather pattern. Finally, he tops out 12 feet above the crash pads at Austin Rock Gym in Austin, Texas. Five hundred miles from the real thing, Posson has this faux Feather wired. The simulated rock route, which debuted four years ago, gives him and other Austin climbers a taste of a natural rock icon without a plane ticket or a leg- numbing all-night drive. "The movement is definitely the same as the Feather," says Clayton Reagan, an Austin-based climber who has done the real Hueco problem climb many times. The rock gym version, he adds, "is easier, but it's still difficult." A climbing gym in Boulder, Colo., has taken rock simulation further afield. The Spot replicates the geology of famed climbing areas from Hueco to Yosemite to France's Fontainebleau. The gym lets climbers come out of the cold or finger- searing heat and enjoy ideal climbing conditions year-round.
[Show full text]
Storia Dell'arrampicata Sportiva Scuola Di Alpinismo E Scialpinismo
La storia dell’arrampicata sportiva Scuola di Alpinismo e Scialpinismo Storia dell’Arrampicata Sportiva “Sesto Gnaccarini” L’ARRAMPICATA, INTESA COME DISCIPLINA A SÉ STANTE, NASCE NEGLI ANNI SESSANTA. INIZIALMENTE INTESA COME ALLENAMENTO PER L’ALPINISMO Scuola di Alpinismo e Scialpinismo Storia dell’Arrampicata Sportiva “Sesto Gnaccarini” DUE SONO I PERSONAGGI SUI QUALI VALE LA PENA SOFFERMARCI NELLA RICERCA DELLE ORIGINI DELLA MODERNA VISIONE DELL’ARRAMPICATA: MUMMERY E PREUSS Scuola di Alpinismo e Scialpinismo Storia dell’Arrampicata Sportiva “Sesto Gnaccarini” Albert Frederick Mummery ALBERT FREDERICK MUMMERY (DOVER, 1856 - NANGA PARBAT, 1895). AMAVA IL CONFRONTO LEALE E DIRETTO CON LA MONTAGNA E FU NEMICO DEI MEZZI ARTIFICIALI. GIUNTO ALLA BASE DELLA FAMOSA PLACCA BURGENER SUL DENTE DEL GIGANTE, LASCIÒ UN BIGLIETTO SUL QUALE AVEVA SCRITTO QUELLA CHE IN SEGUITO SAREBBE DIVENTATA UNA DELLE FRASI PIÙ CELEBRI DELLA STORIA DELL'ALPINISMO: “ASSOLUTAMENTE IMPOSSIBILE CON MEZZI LEALI” (ABSOLUTE IMPOSSIBILE BY FAIR MEANS). A FINE 1800, COMINCIA A RICERCARE SALITE PIU’ ARDITE E DIFFICILI, VISTO CHE LE CIME SONO TUTTE GIA’ STATE SALITE. SENZA CHIODI E TAGLIANDO GRADINI SUL GHIACCIO. PRIMA SALITA DELLA CRESTA SMUTT AL CERVINO NEL 1879 Scuola di Alpinismo e Scialpinismo Storia dell’Arrampicata Sportiva “Sesto Gnaccarini” Paul Preuss PAUL PREUSS (1886 AUSTRIA - 1913 MANDLKOGEL in solitaria) CONSIDERATO UNO DEI PIÙ GRANDI MAESTRI DELL'ARRAMPICATA PURA, IN LIBERA, SENZA CHIODI “NESSUN MEZZO ARTIFICIALE SIA CONCESSO A CHI AFFRONTA LA MONTAGNA, MA SI CONTI ESCLUSIVAMENTE SULLE PROPRIE CAPACITÀ. SOLTANTO COSÌ IL RAPPORTO UOMO- MONTAGNA PUÒ ESSERE VERAMENTE LEALE”. E' CONSIDERATO IL PADRE SPIRITUALE DELL'ARRAMPICATA LIBERA. SCALAVA IN SALITA E DISCESA DALLA STESSA VIA.
[Show full text]
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020
ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 75. September 2020 C CONTENTS All-Afghan Team with two Women Climb Nation's Highest Peak Noshakh 7492m of Afghanistan Page 2 ~ 6 Himalayan Club E-Letter vol. 40 Page 7 ~ 43 1 All-Afghan Team, with 2 Women Climb Nation's Highest – Peak Noshakh 7492m The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. Related News • Female 30K Cycling Race Starts in Afghanistan • Afghan Female Cyclist in France Prepares for Olympics Fatima Sultani, an 18-year-old Afghan woman, spoke to TOLOnews and said she and companions reached the summit of Noshakh in the Hindu Kush mountains, which is the highest peak in Afghanistan at 7,492 meters. 1 The group claims to be the first all-Afghan team to reach the summit. Fatima was joined by eight other mountaineers, including two girls and six men, on the 17-day journey. They began the challenging trip almost a month ago from Kabul. Noshakh is located in the Wakhan corridor in the northeastern province of Badakhshan. “Mountaineering is a strong sport, but we can conquer the summit if we are provided the gear,” Sultani said.The team members said they did their exercises for the trip in Panjshir, Salang and other places for one month ahead of their journey. “We made a plan with our friends to conquer Noshakh summit without foreign support as the first Afghan team,” said Ali Akbar Sakhi, head of the team. The mountaineers said their trip posed challenge but they overcame them.
[Show full text]
Conference Brochure
Virtual Summer CONFERENCE JUNE 27 - JULY 1, 2021 Greetings colleagues and friends! We are so close to the upcoming conference, and like all of you, we were really hoping to be together in-person this summer, but unfortunately it wasn’t possible. We are still totally stoked though to be able to invite you all to another epic virtual WMS get-together. For the 2021 Virtual Summer Conference, we are bringing in some “rare” subjects that haven’t been seen at meetings for years, if ever. These should be informative, interesting, and a bit different in comparison to the classic offerings at most wilderness events. We are particularly excited that this gives those of you pursuing your FAWM a number of novel credits to round out your training. We will again be offering the popular DiMM (Diploma in Mountain Medicine) pre-conference, and we are happy to announce that the Medicine at Sea pre-conference, which has been highly anticipated, has also finally landed! This new course is open to all, but will serve as a prerequisite for those pursuing their Diploma in Diving & Marine Medicine (DiDMM). The conference will launch with an opening session for everyone to catch up with wilderness medicine enthusiasts from around the world, share stories, experiences, ideas, and build camaraderie. You will be able to pick your favorite beverage, hot or cold, and join in conversations from the comfort of your home, deck, mountainside, or wherever you choose. This summer’s keynote speaker is world famous climber Lynn Hill. Her pioneering hard free routes set the stage for advanced climbs that continue today.
[Show full text]
Empowering a Generation of Climbers My First Ascent an Epic Climb of Mt
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG SPRING 2018 • VOLUME 112 • NO. 2 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE in this issue: Empowering a Generation of Climbers An Interview with Lynn Hill My First Ascent Becoming Backwoods Barbie An Epic Climb of Mt. Rainier Via the Willis Wall tableofcontents Spring 2018 » Volume 112 » Number 2 Features The Mountaineers enriches lives and communities by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy 24 Empowering a Generation of Climbers the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. An Interview with Lynn Hill 26 My First Ascent Becoming Backwoods Barbie 32 An Epic Climb of Mt. Rainier Via the Willis Wall Columns 7 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Marcey Kosman 8 VOICES HEARD 24 1000 Words: The Worth of a Picture 11 PEAK FITNESS Developing a Personal Program 12 BOOKMARKS Fuel Up on Real Food 14 OUTSIDE INSIGHT A Life of Adventure Education 16 YOUTH OUTSIDE We’ve Got Gear for You 18 SECRET RAINIER 26 Goat Island Mountain 20 TRAIL TALK The Trail Less Traveled 22 CONSERVATION CURRENTS Climbers Wanted: Liberty Bell Needs Help 37 IMPACT GIVING Make the Most of Your Mountaineers Donation 38 RETRO REWIND To Everest and Beyond 41 GLOBAL ADVENTURES The Extreme Fishermen of Portugal’s Rota Vicentina 55 LAST WORD Empowerment 32 Discover The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining, or have joined and aren’t sure where to star, why not set a date to Meet The Mountaineers? Check the Mountaineer uses: Branching Out section of the magazine for times and locations of CLEAR informational meetings at each of our seven branches. on the cover: Bam Mendiola, AKA “Backwoods Barbie” stands on the top of Mount Rainier.
[Show full text]
Advanced Rock Climbing
SPORTS / CLIMBING / HOW-TO $24.95 U.S. “This book needed to be written, and there is no better person MOUNTAINEERS O UTDOOR to write it than Topher Donahue.” MOUNTAINEERS —Tommy Caldwell series OUTDOOR EXPERT series E TAKE IT TO A NEW LEVEL XPERT Climber and former guide Topher Donahue not only knows a thing or two about serious climbing; he also knows how to achieve an even higher level. In Advanced Rock Climbing, Donahue draws ROCK CLIMBING ADVANCED efficiency tips from alpine and big wall climbers and training tips from gym climbers, while getting some of the biggest names in climbing to share the secrets of their success. Whether it’s how to save time on multipitch climbs by paring down the gear you carry and leading in blocks, the advantages of an active belayer, or why it matters whether you approach a new route with an onsight or redpoint mentality, Donahue has you covered. “Advanced rock climbing is an independent, self-ruling, intuitive, flexible, creative, anything-goes-as- backcover tagline, long-as-it’s-done-safely kind of climbing.” baseline of text is .25” —Topher Donahue front cover, logo lines up ush left at .25” from spine, from bottom of book Where other climbing guidebooks focus on how to tie particular knots and make specific moves,backcover tagline, Donahue digs deeper to get to the why behindbaseline such basics. of text You’ll is progress.25’’ from beyond applying textbook baseline of text is .25” front cover, logo lines up lessons to, instead, choosing for yourself the best optionsbottom for ofyour book particular situation.
[Show full text]