Index

Page numbers in italics refer to figures.

Abakanowicz, Magdalena 317, 320–321, Africa; see also East Africa; North Africa; 358, 367, 403–404, 405 southern Africa; ; specific Abakans (Abakanowicz) 320–321, country 403, 405 akotifahana 151–152 Abbasid Empire 114 130, 131, 133 ABC (A. Brunnschweiler & Co.) babar riga (big gown) 140, 143, 147, 149 factory 142, 159 137 Abegg Foundation 110–111, 120 bark cloth 156 Abstract Design in American Quilts bast 135 exhibition 392, 438–441 (wax prints) 107, 139, 141–142, abstraction 228, 299–300, 304, 423, 436, 159, 325–326, 372, 374, 379 447, 452–453, 462; see also body art 385 Abstract Design in American Quilts British‐made 145–146 exhibition capulana 152, 157–158, 157 Accumulations (Kusama) 320 Christian church textiles 150–151 Adamson, Glenn 7 clothes as DNA 372 al‐Adawiyya, Rabi’a 385 colonialism 146, 325–326, 383–384 Adobor, Sam, Osie AdjaCOPYRIGHTED Tekpor contemporary MATERIAL art, textiles in 386–387 VI 372–373 Amenuke, Dorothy Akpene 378–379 Adorno, Theodor 337–338, 341–344, Anatsui, El see Anatsui, El 349–350 Konaté, Abdoulaye 375–377 aesthetic encounters 338–341, 343, 344, Mahama, Ibrahim 372, 380–383, 382 347–348, 349, 393, 430, 438 Owusu‐Ankomah, Kwesi 377–378 affect 339, 340, 341, 342–343, 347 Papa Essel 378 Afghanistan 461–462 Tagoe‐Turkson, Patrick 380

A Companion to Culture, First Edition. Edited by Jennifer Harris. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Published 2020 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

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Africa (cont’d) trade and exchange 105–106, 107, 135, 137, 155 136–137, 141, 142, 149, 152, cultural exchanges 371 155, 156–157, 158, 379 dunguse 151 viscose 137, 140 dyes and 135, 137–139, technologies 128–136, 129, 151, 156 131, 132 embroidery 140, 150 130, 135, 137, 155 hand‐spinning 135 African diaspora, Britain’s handloom weaving 151 auto‐ethnography 236 identity 142–143 Big Women’s Talk (Boyce) importance of textile crafts 236, 300–301 240–246, 241 Indian influences 153–154, 155–156 “Black Diaspora Artists in Britain” isishweshwe 107, 158–160 (Hall) 238–239 jibba 148–149 “carnivalising theory” 237–238 372, 379, 381–383, 382, 387, 399 as self‐expression 245–246 kangas 146–147, 146, 152–154, 157, colors, symbolism in 248, 251 383, 386 creolizing text 237–238 kaniki cloth 155–156 critical rationality approach 238 kente 130, 301, 373–374, 374, 379, cultural identities 239 380, 387 customizing bought patterns 244–245 khasas 132 differing lenses 238 kikoi 145, 154 dress as communication 237 kitenge 152 Englishness and Caribbeanness 242 lamba hoany 152 Handsworth Park Liberation Day Rally lemd 149–150 photograph (Burke) 246–250, 246 lenços 152–153, 157, 157 home in “in‐between” space 252 128, 137 investigative methods 237–238 Manjak draw looms 132 local freehand seamstresses Maria Theresa thaler 150 243–245, 278 masquerade 158 men’s hats 248–249, 249 merikani cloth 155, 156 moments in post‐war history 238–239 muraqqa’a 147–148 empowerment 246–250, 246 ostentation 135 independence 250–252 patterns 130, 132, 133, 134, 139, settlement 240–246, 241 140–141, 146–147, 146, 150, 153, oral testimony 237, 241, 241 154–156, 377 other 240 quilting 140–141 Pan‐Africanism 373 quimau 157 patterns 242 raffia 135, 138, 139 racism, reactions to 249, 278 136–137, 140 Rastafarianism 247–248, 249–250 shamma 151 Same Earth, The (Miller) 250–252 shukas 154–156 staying power 235–236 135, 136, 149, 151–152, 156–157 textiles as nation language 245–246 slave trade 105–106, 142 traditional dress 373 tablet weaving 150–151 “us” not “other” 250 tapestry work 136 West Indian fashion 243–246 te eraz 149 West Indian front rooms 242 tibeb 151 Windrush 248–249, 249

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agency, material 334, 338, 339, 342, Sewing Rebellion workshops (Lung) 349–350, 461 286–290, 286, 290 Ahmad, Muhammad ‘the Madhi’ 148 sweatshops 285–286 Akakpo, Sylvanus 131 unions 288 Akan Doctrine of God, The (Danquah) 377 worker centers 288–289 Akoi‐Jackson, Bernard 382 appliqué 140–141, 183, 193, 306, 439 Albers, Anni 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 313 Arai, Junichi Albrecht, Stanislav 210–211 art textiles 358–359, 359 Albrechtová, Františka 201, 202, background 358–359 210–214, 212, 214–215 compared with other artists 364, 365, Alexander, Claire 239 366, 367, 368 Algeria 260–263, 261, 267–270, 268, computerized Jacquard machines, use 384–385 of 364 All India Handicrafts Board (AIHB) 73, 74 as dream weaver 360–363, 361, 362 Alter Bahnhof Video Walk (Cardiff and folk craft 365 Miller) 399 folkloric costumes 359–360 Amasis the painter 21, 22 Hand and Technology exhibition 360 Amenuke, Dorothy Akpene 378–380 influences 365 Amer, Ghada 317, 326, 386 international recognition 359, 360–361 American Ancestors exhibition 437 Kiryu, contributions to 362–363 American Folk Art exhibition 437–438 Minzoku Ishou to Senshoku Anatsui, El 235, 236, 301, 324, 324, 372, exhibition 360 373, 374–375, 376 Miyake, collaboration with 366 Anderson, Benedict 460 printed fabrics 366 Andradi, Esther 201, 214 River Center for Performing Arts Andriušytė ‐Žukienė, Rasa 406 monument 361–362 Angel’s Watch (Van de Velde) 305 synthetic 360 Anim‐Addo, Joan 237 as technologist 358 animism 461, 462 Tradition and Creation exhibition Anishanslin, Z. 34 361, 362 anonymity 77–78, 444 Woven Structure Pattern 359 “Antivero” (Vicuña) 45 Aranda Textile Mills (Pty) Ltd. 160, 161 Antubam, Kofi 377 archaeological analysis Appadurai, Arjun 100, 169 advancements 22 apparel manufacturing industry archaeobotany/archaeozoology 19–20 alternatives to 285–288, 286 Bronze Age 16–17 authorship issues 469 characterization and provenance devaluing of clothing 469 studies 16–18, 17 gendered jobs 280 dye and mordant identification 14 home‐workplace blurring 280 gender identities 18–19 hopes for reform 289–290 geographic mobility 18–19 immigrant labor 279–280 iconography 21, 22 importance to economy 285, 286 implements 18–19, 19, 135 Knock Off Enterprises (Lung) 285 Iron Age 13, 14, 17 labor abuses 280, 281–282, 281, isotope analyses 17 285–286, 288–289, 469 Neolithic period 12 Mend, A (Sifuentes) 281–282, 281 operational chains 120 modernist design 308–309 paleoenvironmental data 19–20

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archaeological analysis (cont’d) mimetic comportment 341–344 Paleolithic period 12 practical strategies 344–346, 345 production technology 15–16, greyness 348 18–19, 19 immediacy and containment 347–348 social identities 13–14 staging 346–347 structural analysis 12–13, 13, 15–16 thingness 346 survival of ancient textiles 12 processual interrelationality 334 textiles, definition of 11–12 resonance 339–340 trade and exchange 16–18, 17 Australia wool 17 cloaks and identity 465–468, 468 written evidence 20–21 collective art and authorship issues Arnett, Matt 435, 448, 452 464–465 Arnett, Paul 435, 441, 442, 444, 445, Collett, Chrissy 471–472 448, 449 Collett’s fashion workshops 471–472 Arnett, William 435, 441, 442, 445, ‘community,’ meanings of 464 446–447, 448 Cook’s New Clothes project (Carroll and Around 1981 (Gallop) 224 Ruki) 467–468, 468 Art & Textiles exhibition 317, 400 dingos 467 art–craft separation 299 dyes 466–467 Art Fabric, The (Constantine and fashion workshops 471–472 Larsen) 403 “Ghost Nets” sculptures 469 art hierarchies 299, 319–321, 322–323, Hoette, Ruby 469, 470, 471 329–330 identity 197 “Art MANifest vs. Arts Kngwarreye, Emily 463–464 Feminist‐O!” 220–221 Newman, Elizabeth 471, 472 Art Nouveau 305 Ruki, Keren 197, 465–466, 467, 468 Arte Povera movement 319–320 ‐screening 464 Art_Textiles exhibition 317, 338 WikiLeaks Dress (Newman) 471, 472 Ashcroft, Bill 263 wool industry 466–467 Ashmore, Sonia 72, 169 Austria 16–17, 118, 118–119, 213–214 Asia 15, 105, 106, 108, 165, 312; see also Auther, Elissa 320, 323 Silk Road studies; South Asia; autonomy, aesthetic 320–321, 340, specific country 343–344, 346, 347 Asia Pacific Biennial 173, 189 A.W. Hainsworth & Sons 161 Assyria 20, 21 Awatsuji, Hiroshi 359, 360–361, 365–366 attachment/detachment Axtell, J. 38 aesthetic encounter indeterminacy 338–341 Babbage, Charles 329 affect 340, 341 Bachchan, Amitabh 65 agency, textile 349–350 Baku, Shango 248, 249 boundaries, fraying of 335–337, “Ballad of Reading Gaol” (Wilde) 215 349–350 Banks, Joseph 193, 467, 468 Concertina catalogue (Bristow) Barbeau, Marius 419 337–338, 338 bark cloth 156, 182, 187, 188, 191, 194 constellatory complexity 337–338 Barnard, Malcolm 236–237 implications of terms 334 Barnes, Brooks 445–446 Intersecting a Seam (Bristow) 336 Barnett, Pennina 327, 401 material agency 336–337, 338, 339 Barthes, Roland 57, 238, 348

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bast 15, 135, 136 East – West 407–408 Batchelor, David 348 Hangzhou 397, 408–411, 411 batik (wax prints) Istanbul 397 Africa 107, 139, 141–142, 159, Kassel 300, 323–324, 399, 401–402 325–326, 372, 374, 379 Kaunas 397, 406–407, 407, 410 Oceania 460, 461–464 Lausanne 402–406, 404, 408, 409, 410 Baume‐Dürrbach, Jacqueline de la 308 Łódź 408 Baumer, C. 110 Lyon 399 Baumgarten, L. 37 Moscow 397 Beardsley, John 441, 442 New York 317 Becker, John 113 Othering 400–401 Beckwith, C.I. 110 São Paulo 321, 396 Bed (Rauschenberg) 319 textile, impacts on 399–400 Begay, D. Y. 425, 430 Venice 321, 324, 372, 375, 381, 396, Belcourt, Christie 291 403–404, 419, 461, 463 Belgium 114 Big Women’s Talk (Boyce) 235, Bell, Kirtsy 401 240–246, 241 Bendolph, Louisiana P. 445, 450 Bishop, Claire 459, 463 Bendolph, Mary Lee 445, 450 “Black Diaspora Artists in Britain” Bendon, Helen 232 (Hall) 238–239 benibana dyeing 353, 368–369 Black Skin, White Masks (Fanon) 236 Benjamin, Walter 451 Blocked brand 177–178 Bennett, Loretta 450 Blondé, B. 33 Bennett, Tony 391 Boatwallah, Rodaben 70 Benning, Jason 150 Boatwallah, Surabji 70 Berger, René 404 body art 187, 190, 191, 194, 197, Bergman, Folke 117–118 385, 463 Berlant, Tony 423 Bonacich, Edna 279 Bernard, Christian 405 Borges, Jorge Luis 47 Bernard‐Donals, M. 203–204 Botswana 158–161 Bernier, François 63 bottari 329 Bernstein, Jay 342, 343, 344 Bottin, J. 32 Between Earth and Heaven (Anatsui) 375 Bougainville, Louis‐Antoine de 193 Beuys, Joseph 319 Bourgeois, Louise 317, 327–328, 328 “Beyond Black” (Alexander) 239 Bourque, B.J. 38 beyond craft (Constantine and Larsen, Bourriaud, Nicolas 397, 399, 407, eds.) 358, 365, 403 407, 461 Bharatwala, Hansraj 64 Boyce‐Davis, Carole 250 Bharatwala, Jethalal Chauhan 64 Boyce, Sonia 235, 240–246, 241 Bhasin, Brij 74 Brathwaite, Kamau 238, 245, 246 biennials/triennials Braudel, F. 28–29 Asia Pacific 173, 189 Brazil 32, 321, 396 beginnings 396 Brewer, J. 31 “biennial fever” 396–397 Briere, J.N. 203 commissions, participation, localities Brito, Eugenia 46 398–399 151–152, 358 as curatorial problem 397–398 Bronze Age 16–17, 18–19, 19, 20–21 curatorial process 410–411 Brooklyn Museum, New York 323, 419

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Broude, Norma 227–228, 228–229, 300 Casdagli, Alexis T. 214–215 Brown, Bill 346 Chaimowicz, Marc‐Camille 400 Brown, Carol 127 Chambre 202, Hotel du Pavot Brown, Eric 419, 420 (Tanning) 320 Brown, Joy 430 Charles II of England 36 Brown, Pamela 430 Charlín, Marcelo 46 Bruna, D. 37 Charlot, Jean 422 Brydon, Lynne 372 Chattopadhyaya, Kamaladevi 74 Bucknor, Michael 250 Chevalier, J.‐J. 36 Buddhism 119, 354–355 Chile 45–47, 183, 232; see also “Oro es tu Buergel, Roger M. 323, 401, 402 hilar” (Vicuña); Vicuña, Cecilia Buić, Jagoda 321, 404, 404 Chilkat weaving 418, 420, 421, 422, 423, Bulgaria 409 425–426, 429 Bullen, Terri 232 China; see also Silk Road studies Buobu, Afranie 132 archaeological silk finds 112–113 Burke, Vanley 235, 240, 246–250, 246 foreign interest in 111–112 Burman, Barbara 287, 288 Han dynasty 111, 113, 116, 117 Buszek, Maria Elena 401 Hangzhou Triennial 397, 408–411, 411 button blankets 420, 421, 423, Japan, influence on 355, 368 426–428, 427 pattern rods 113 By the Rivers of Birminam exhibition patterned silks 112–113, 116–117 246, 246 reeled vs. spun silk yarn 119 Taklamakan Desert 111, 117–118 Cabeen, Lou 276 Tang dynasty 112, 113 Cahill, Holger 436, 437–438 taqueté 112, 116–117, 117–118, 119 Calvert, K. 31 Tarim Basin archaeological finds Calvin, Paula 211 117–119 Calyx (Day) 310–311 trade and exchange 149, 157, 165, Cameroon 130 356, 379 Campbell, Emma Lee Pettway 447 traditional costume studies 39 Can the Subaltern Speak (Spivak) 401 weft‐faced weaves 118–119 Canada 84–85, 85, 87, 88, 89, 291; wool plaid 118 see also “Log Cabin” quilt; Native China National Silk Museum, North American textiles Hangzhou 111, 115, 409 capitalism 224, 276, 279–280, 471; Chishti, Ruby 174, 174 see also apparel manufacturing Chojnacka, Maria Teresa 408 industry; commoditization; Choulai, Wendi 196–197 consumerism Chrisman‐Campbell, K. 35 Cardiff, Janet 399 Christianity 149, 150–151, 192, Caribbean see African diaspora, Britain’s 193–194, 276 “carnivalising theory” 237–238 Christov‐Bakargiev, Carolyn 402 Caro, Julie Levin 450, 451, 452, 453 Churchill, Delores 426 “Carpet Paradigm, The” (Masheck) 399 Churchill, Winston 209 carpets 21, 173, 173, 304, 399–400; Clarke, Duncan 130 see also rugs Clévenot, Dominique 259 Carr, Emily 420 Cliff, Jimmy 253 Carson, C. 31 Coast Salish people 418, 419, 423, 425, Caruth, Cathy 203, 204 426, 428–429

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col·lec·tion (Hoette) 471 Cook Islands 190, 192, 193, 194 Cole, Arthur H. 96, 97 Cooks, Bridget 443–444 Cole, Henry 169 Cook’s New Clothes project (Carroll and collaborative authorship 461, 462, Ruki) 467–468, 468 464–465, 469 Coquery, N. 35 Collections of the Textile Manufactures of Cotter, Holland 399 India, The (Watson) 166–170, 168 cotton Collett, Chrissy 471–472 popularity 31, 32, 95–96, 97, 194 Colomer, J.L. 35, 36 production 15, 97, 106, 107–108, colonialism 135, 277 Africa 107, 140–141, 142, 146, 236, trade and exchange 106, 325, 325, 325–326, 383–384 356–357 exploitation of labor 277, 279 Crang, P. 169 North America 37–38 Crete 20 Oceania 464–465, 467–468 Crocheted Environment (Wilding) Pacific Islands 193–194 321, 322 South Asia 165, 171, 172, 325 cross‐stitch 306 colors, symbolism in 14–15, 36, 158, Crowd and Individual (Abakanowicz) 404 191, 207, 247–248, 251, 348, 385 Crowston, C.H. 37 commoditization 61, 69–73, 73, 74–78, Cubbs, Joanne 444, 449 169–170, 224, 449, 450; see also cultural theory 304–306 capitalism; consumerism culture, definition of 1 communication Currie, E. 35 human–nature relationship 47–48 Cuttoli, Marie 306, 307–308 identity, group/national 13–14, 107, Cuttoli Tapestries 307–308 182, 187–190, 193–197, 245, 246, Czech Republic 12 248, 249–250, 259, 376, 466 Czechoslovakia 210–213, 212, 214, 403 identity, personal 13–14, 65, 151, 190–193, 202–203, 205–214, 206, Da Gama Textiles 159 212, 237, 243, 259, 376 Danquah, Joseph Boakye 377 kanga 154 Dauncey, S. 39 mood 151 Dauvergne, Catherine 286 poetics 327–329, 328 Dave, Kirit 76 political ideology 205–214, 206, 212, Davenport, Bill 449–450 237, 323–324, 324–326, 324, 325, Day, Lucienne 310–311 326–327 de Lauretis, Teresa 267, 268 sign/function 57 de Lemos, Virgilio 158 trauma 203–205, 205–214, 206, 212 de Zegher, M. Catherine 47 Comoro Islands 153 Deacon, Deborah 211 complicit formalism 343 decoration 228, 299–300, 304, 322, Compositions (Konaté) 376–377 323, 462 Concertina catalogue (Bristow) “Decorative Arts of the American Indian” 337–338, 338 exhibition 419 constellation model 337–338, 338, 349 Decorum exhibition 400 consumerism 28–32, 33, 38, 39, 224, DeGroat, Judith 276 289, 309–311, 312, 465; see also delaines 96–97 capitalism; commoditization Dempsey, Bob 427–428 Cook, Captain James 187, 193, 467 Denmark 14, 17

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Depero, Fortunato 306 East Africa; see also specific country Depero, Rosetta 306 akotifahana 151–152 Descalzo, A. 35, 36 “Angelina” pattern 150 design history 7 bark cloth 156 Difference exhibition 222–223 capulana 152, 157–158, 157 Differencing the Canon (Pollock) 225 Christian church textiles 150–151 dingo skins 197, 466, 467, 468 cotton 148, 151, 155, 157 Dino, Allah 176–177 dunguse 151 Documenta events, Kassel, Germany 300, dyes 151, 156 323–324, 399, 401–402 embroidery 149, 150, 157 Dodhia, P.D. 155 guntino pattern 153 Dono, Heri 460, 461–463 handloom weaving 151 dowry embroidery see Gujarat hand Indian influence 153–154, 155–156 embroidery jibba 148–149 draft spinning 15–16 kanga 146–147, 146, 152–154, 383 Dressen, Anne 400 kaniki cloth 155–156 Dresser, Christopher 300, 304 kikoi 154 drop spindles 13, 21 kitenge 152 Drucker, Johanna 336, 343, 346 lamba hoany 152 Duncan, Sally Anne 443 lemd 149–150 Dupré, Françoise 232 lenço 152–153, 157, 157 Dura Europos, Syria 21, 112, 119 Maria Theresa thaler 150 dyes/dyeing masquerade 158 Africa 133, 135, 136, 137–139, 141, men’s dress 147–149, 149–150, 151, 151, 156, 159, 385 152, 154–155 ancient 14–15, 16–17, 18, 19, 20, merikani cloth 155, 156 113, 118 muraqqa’a 147–148 Asia 87, 355, 360 quimau 157 Japan 353, 363–365, 368–369 shamma 151 North America 97–98 shuka 154–156 Oceania 466–467 silks 149, 150, 151–152, 156–157 Pacific Islands 191, 197 social status indicators 147, 150, 151, 156 Eames, Charles 312 tablet weaving 150–151 Eames, Ray 311 154–156 Earle, R. 38 te eraz 149 early modern period scholarship trade and exchange 145–146, 149, collective works 31–32 150, 151–152, 153–154, 155, consumerism 28–31 156–157, 158 diversity 27–28, 32–37 Urafiki textile mill 145–146 dress and fashion 28–29, 31–32 women’s dress 145, 146–147, 146, early monographs 28–31 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155–156, European context 28–37 157–158, 157 further research needed 40 wool 147–148, 155 inventories 29–30 East India Company 63, 165, 325, 325 non‐European contexts 37–39 Eastern Europe 320–321, 403–404, 404, sources of research 28 406, 407–408 textile marketing 33 Ebla Kingdom, Syria 20

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Egypt 14–15, 114, 117, 368 textile industry 145–146, 147, 153 El Anatsui see Anatsui, El trade and exchange 105–106, 136, El Guindi, F. 259 142, 145–146, 147, 152, 153, El Salahi, Ibrahim 148 156, 159, 165, 170–171 Eleventh International Economic History wool 16–17, 17 Congress 31 Exhibition of Canadian West Coast Art Elinor, Gillian 223–224 419–420 elites/non‐elites, fashion of 29, 31, Experiencing Duration (Bourriaud and 34, 35 Sans) 399 Elliott, Catherine 160 Exposition of Indian Tribal Arts 419 Elsner, Jas 83, 87, 89 Extra/Ordinary (Buszek, ed.) 392, 401 Elson, Vickie 65 eyeDazzler (Wilson) 430–431, 431 Eltit, Diamela 46 embroidery Fabrics of History exhibition 354 Africa 140, 148, 149, 150 Fanon, Frantz 236, 237 Angel’s Watch (Van de Velde) 305–306 Farago, Jason 317 Asia 178; see also Gujarat hand Felman, Shoshona 203 embroidery feminist approaches “fancywork” 207–208 1987 223–224 gendering of 192, 276, 290, 299, 400 abstraction vs. decoration 227–228 Pacific Islands 192 art critics criticisms 222–223 as painting 386 “Art MANifest vs. Arts Feminist‐O!” of prisoners 201, 205–210, 206, 220–221 211–214, 212, 214–215 commoditization 224 samplers 277–278, 282–284, 283 craft as dissent 224 Subversive Stitch, The (Parker) 275–278, craft‐feminist contradictions 224 290, 299, 400 Crocheted Environment (Wilding) Who Killed Les Demoiselles d’Avignon? 321–322, 322 (Amer) 326 Feminism and Art History (Broude and Emmons, George 418 Garrard, eds.) 227–229 End of Empire (Shonibare) 326 Feministo exhibition 220–221, 231 Entangled exhibition 221, 317–318 “femmages” (Schapiro) 322–323 Enwezor, Okwui 300, 402 gallery‐home separation, breaking Esche, Charles 397 231–232 Essak, Kaderdina Haji 153 intersubjectivity 270 Essaydi, Lalla 385 Kristeva’s interweaving of time 225–226 Essential Art of , The “making” as alternative to feminism (Anatsui) 301, 374 221–222 Ethiopia 107, 149–151, 248 mimicry 267–270, 268 Etsitty, Martha 430 ‘passing on’ narrative 220–221 Europe; see also Eastern Europe; specific Picasso’s studio 230–231 country Pollock’s deconstruction 226 bast 15–16 Pollock’s differencing 222–223, 225 colonialism see colonialism studio, occupation of the 229 early modern period scholarship 28–37 tensions/contradictions 226–230 flax 19 textiles as force of sublation 226 lurex 137 Who Killed Les Demoiselles d’Avignon? slave trade 105–106, 142 (Amer) 326

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feminist approaches (cont’d) Garment Worker Center (GWC), Los Why Have We So Few Great Women Angeles 289 Artists? (Malcolm) 322 Garrard, Mary 227–228 Womanhouse 321 Gee’s Bend quilts Women’s Peace Camp at Greenham architectural metaphor 445, Common 229–230 447–448, 449 “women’s work” 220 “artfulness” working‐class art 227 critics disagreements 445–447, Feministo exhibition 220–221, 231 449–450 Femmes du Maroc, Les (Essaydi) 385 museums’ role in valuation 441–442, Ferris, Alison 371 447–448, 450 : Sculpture 1960–present exhibition commoditization 449, 450 317, 399 distancing from context 443, 452 Field, Hamilton Easter 437 Gee’s Bend: the Architecture of the Quilt Fiji 188, 194, 196, 197 exhibition 435–436, 444–450, Finnane, A. 39 446, 447 flags 140–141, 158, 193, 212, 248, 380 impact on community 444 flax 16, 19, 188, 467 Lee Kimche McGrath Original Print Fleet, India 466 Collection (FAPE) 452–453 Fleming, E. McClung 85 as modernist art 442, 443, 450–453 folk craft 309, 311–312, 364–365, 378, museum‐directed seeing 442–443, 437–438; see also specific craft 453–454 folkloric costumes 359–360 new generation 450–453, 451 Foster, Hal 459 photographs 443–444, 448–449 Fraiman, Susan 280–281 Quilts of Gee’s Bend, The exhibition Framing Feminism (Parker and Pollock, 435–436, 441–444 eds.) 222, 223, 224, 321 From Quilts to Prints: Gee’s Bend in France 29, 34–35, 152, 169, 307, 308 Translation exhibition 450–453, 451 Frank, Rike 400 gendered production roles 18–19, Frankopan, P. 110 192–193, 276–277, 299, 321–322, Fraser, James 160 326–327, 329; see also men’s textile Fraser, Kennedy 366 work; women’s textile work French Collection, The (Ringgold) 231 geographic mobility 18–19 Fresh and Fading Memories (Anatsui) Germany 159, 210–214, 212, 300, 317, 324, 324 323–324, 399, 401–402 From Quilts to Prints: Gee’s Bend in 139–140, 140–141, 143, 372– Translation exhibition 374, 374, 378–383, 387; see also 450–453, 451 Anatsui, El Frost, Steven 287 Gillespie, Faith 223–224 Fryer, Peter 235–236 Gillis, Talon 429 Fukai, Akiko 357 Girard, Alexander 311–312 Fukasawa, Naoto 357 Glessing, Ernestine 426 Fuller Fabrics 313 globalization 39, 196–197, 460–461, 462 Godley, Andrew 285 Gabčik, Josef 210 Goett, Solveigh 226 Gallop, Jane 224 Golden Gate International Exposition Gandhi, Mahatma 73 307, 420–421

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Golombek, Lisa 259 social identity/status 65, 67, 69, 76, 77 Goodall, Phil 220, 227 women’s lack of agency 69, 70 Gordon, Beverly 181, 287, 288 young people’s dismissal of 77 Goswamy, B.N. 63, 167 Gumpert, Lynn 374 Gouma‐Peterson, Thalia 230 Gustafson, Paula 425 Graham, Joss 72–73 Grant, Wendy 426 Hall, Fiona 465 Greece 13, 13, 14, 18, 20, 21, 22 Hall, Stuart 238–239, 242, 252 Green, Nancy L. 280 Halpert, Edith and Sam 437 Greenberg, Clement 319, 440 Hand and Technology exhibition Greenblatt, Stephen 393 (Arai) 360 Gregg, M. 347 handkerchiefs 36, 152, 205–210, 206, Grehan, J. 39 211–216, 212 Grünwede, Albert 111 Hands of our Ancestors exhibition 418, Guinea‐Bissau 132 426, 428 Guintini, Christine 374 Handsworth Park Liberation Day Rally Gujarat hand embroidery photograph (Burke) 235, 240, Ahirs 65, 71, 75, 76 246–250, 246 Banni Hindus 65 Hangzhou Triennial, China 397, Banni Muslims 65–66 408–411, 411 commoditization Hansen, V. 110 anonymity 77–78 Haraszty, Eszter 311 experiential distancing 78 Harder They Come, The (Cliff) 253 GSHHDC intervention 74–75 Hark, Mary 378 Gurjari retail outlet 74–75 Harvey J.R. 36 historical precedent 63–64 Hassanzadeh, Khosrow 263–266, national identity 73–74 264, 271 NGO interventions 75–77 Hasting‐McFall, Niki 467 professionalization of women 61, Haulman, K. 37 74–78 Havell, E. B. 170 prosperity 76–77 Hawai’i 188, 191, 192–193, 194, 428 refashioning dowry goods 72–73, 73 Hawthorn, Audrey 423 Saurashtra Handicrafts 71, 72 Hedin, Sven 111, 117 selling heirlooms 68–73, 73 Hedlund, Ann 424 Shrujan Trust 75–77, 78, 78 heirlooms 188, 193; see also Gujarat hand dowry embroidery 64–67, 66 embroidery embroidery ban 67–69 Heiss, Allana 405 illiteracy link 67, 68 Hendo, José 156 Jats 62, 75 henna 154, 385 mirrorwork 65, 66 Henning, W.B. 114 Mochis 61, 63–64, 71 Herkenhoff, Paulo 328 museum 77 Herman, Bernard L 448 Mutwas 65, 66, 70, 75 Herman, Judith 204 overview 61–62 Herman Miller, Inc. 311–312 personal attachments 66 Hess, Thomas B. 308 Rabaris 63, 64, 66–67, 66, 67–69, 68 Heydrich, Reinhard 210 research methodology 62–63 Hicks, Sheila 317, 318, 320, 358, 404

bindex.indd 485 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 486 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

hijabs see Muslim veiling practices performance 202 Hilal, Nasra 153 personal 13–14, 65, 151, 190–193, Hillenbrand, Robert 259 202–203, 205–214, 206, 212, 243, Himid, Lubaina 250 259, 376 hippy counterculture 71–72 postcolonial 324–326, 325, Hispano‐ Mauresque civilization 465–466, 467 152–153 in prison 202–203, 205–214, 206, 212 History of Bukhara social 65, 69 (ibn Ja’far al‐Narshakhi) 114 imagetextile 205 History of Civilizations of Central Asia, A Imagined Communities (Anderson) 460 (UNESCO) 110 immigrants; see also African diaspora, Hlobo, Nicholas 327 Britain’s Hobbs, Robert 326 anti‐immigrant policies 282–284 Hobsbawm, Eric 464 cultural continutity 278 Hoette, Ruby 469, 470, 471 exploitation of 279–281, 285–286 Holland 30, 31, 107, 159, 356; see also Mend, A (Sifuentes) 279, 281–282, 281 Netherlands racism and discrimination 278, 279– Holloway Prison, London 205–210, 206 280, 280–281, 284 Holm, Bill 421 Sewing Rebellion workshops (Lung) Holocaust 210–214, 212 286–287, 286, 289–290, 290 Holstein, Jonathan 392, 436, 438, Social Outfit, The, workshops 439–441 (Collett) 471–472 Homage aux chasseurs du Mandé US Citizenship Test Sampler project (Konaté) 376 (Sifuentes) 282–284, 283 Hommage à Pierre Pauli (Buić) 404 valuing 278–279 Honeychurch, W. 110 worker centers 288–289 Hong, Grace Kyungwon 279–280, 281 India; see also Gujarat hand embroidery Horrell, Sara 276 Collections of the Textile Manufactures of Hou, Hanru 396, 398 India, The (Watson) 165–170, 168 How Far How Near (Amenuke) 379 colonialism 165–170, 170–171 Huidobro, Vicente 47 craft tradition 170–171, 175 Humphries, Jane 276 dyes 18, 368 Husain, Gulbeg Miyan 70 emigration to Africa 153–154, Husain, Jijabai 70 155–156 Husain, Poopli 70 Kashmir shawls 169–170 Hutchens, Jessyca 467 National Institute of Design (NID) 175 Hyde, Nina 366 quilts 87 Textiles and Ornamental Arts of India Ibn Battuta 149 exhibition 311–312 iconography 21, 22, 22 trade and exchange 106, 107, 109, identity 149, 150, 152, 159, 165–170, 305 and color use 14–15 Indian Art of the United States contexts and relationships 202 exhibition 421–422, 422 diasporic see African diaspora, Britain’s Indian Arts in North America (Vaillant) dress as marker of 13–14, 259, 326 420–421 dynamism and fluidity 202, 203 Indian Blankets and Their Makers (James) group/national 13–14, 73–74, 107, 418–419 182, 187–190, 193–197, 245, 246, indigo 19, 97, 133, 137–139, 149, 159, 248, 249–250, 259, 376, 466 353, 385

bindex.indd 486 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM INDEX ◼ ◼ ◼ 487

Indonesia 107, 141, 326, 460, 461–463, dyeing 353, 363–364, 368–369 464, 465 Edo period 355–356 Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture fashion 353, 357–358 (IVS), Pakistan 175–177 folkloric costumes/folk craft industrialization 107–108, 166, 167, 169, 364–365 170–171, 276–277, 303 hirosode 355 Ingham, B. 258 interiors 353–354, 356, 358, 364, Institute for Labor Generosity, Workers 365, 366 and Uniforms (ILGWU) 288–289 kataezome 365 Institute of Contemporary Art, Boston kesa 355 317, 322, 399 353, 355–356, 363, 364 interdisciplinarity 7, 20 kodaiori 353 interiors 63, 72, 242, 305, 311, 353–354, kosde hinagatabon 355–356 356, 358, 364, 365, 366 kosode 355–356 Intersecting a Seam (Bristow) 336 Kumai, Kyoko 367–368 intersubjectivity 54, 262, 270 Miyake, Issey 366–367 Intrinsic (Tagoe‐Turkson) 380 Moriguchi, Kunihiko 363–364 inventories, probate 29–30 printed fabrics 365–366 Iran 16, 114, 115, 147, 263–266, 264 recycling 366–367, 369 Iron Age 13, 13, 14, 16, 17 religious articles 354–355 Islam 65–66, 140, 147–148, 384–385, Serizawa, Keisuke 364–365 462; see also Muslim veiling Shinafu 363 practices Shōsō‐in silk collection 111–112 isotope analyses 17 synthetic fibers 357 Israel 117 tagasode‐byobu 356 Istanbul Biennial, Turkey 397, 399 Todaiji Shosoin collection 353 Italy trade and exchange 356–357 Arte Povera movement 319–320 Traditional Craftsmen 363 Bronze Age 20, 21 Yamagishi, Koichi 368–369 early modern 30, 35 yuzen/yuzen‐zome 363–364 Etruscan era 21 Jara, Sonia 46 Iron Age 13, 13, 14 Jelinek, Alana 463 Roman era 14–15, 106, 165 Jensen, Doreen 427, 428 Soft Pictures exhibition 317 Jeung, Russell 280 Venice Biennale 321, 324, 372, Jheroowala, Arjanbhai 66–67 375, 381, 396, 403–404, 419, Jidai wo Kataru “Sen” to “Shoku” 461, 463 exhibition 354 Ivory Coast 138 Johnson, Pamela 327 Jones, Amelia 270 Jamaica 37, 38, 245, 246–247, 246, Jones, A.R. 34 250–251; see also African diaspora, Jones, J.M. 34–35 Britain’s Jones, Owen 169, 304 Januszczak, Waldemar 222–223, 226, 229 Journal of Indian Art and Japan Industry, 171 Arai, Junichi see Arai, Junichi Journey to the Land of Promise art textiles 367–368 photograph 248, 249 Awatsuji, Hiroshi 365–366 Journeying into Form (O’Brien) 429–430 categories, engagement 363 jute 320, 372, 379, 381–382, 382, 386, cloth and clothing 366–367 387, 399

bindex.indd 487 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 488 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

Ka‘ba, Mecca 259–260 Labar, L.A. 38 Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt 423 LaCapra, Dominick 203, 204 Kamermans, J. 31 LaGamma, Alisa 374 Kamwathi, Peterson 383 Lai, Him Mark 280 Kandinsky, Wassily 300 language 181, 204, 238, 245–246, 327, Kashmir shawls 169–170 339, 451; see also communication; Kaufmann, Edgar, Jr. 310 “Oro es tu hilar” (Vicuña); Vicuña, Kaufmann, Edgar, Sr. 309–310 Cecilia Kaufmann’s Department Store Lara, S.H. 38 309–310 Larsen, Jack Lenor 309, 311, 358, 359, Kaunas Biennial, Lithuania 397, 406–407, 360, 365, 403 407, 410 Laub, Dori 204 Kent, Elly 462 Laurent, Robert 437 Kenya 152–156, 383–384, 384 Lausanne Biennial, Switzerland 402–406, Khaadi brand 177–178, 178 404, 408, 409, 410 Khalid, Aisha 173, 173 Le Coq, Albert von 111 Khan, Geoffrey 114 Le Corbusier 307 Kihn, Langdon 420 Leach, Neil 334 Kimmelman, Michael 443 Lee Kimche McGrath Original Print Kimsooja 329 Collection (FAPE) 452–453 Kipling, John Lockwood 171, 172 Leeb‐du Toit, Juliette 158–159 Kissell, Mary 418 Lemire, B. 29, 33, 34 Klassen, Teri 450 Leroi‐Gourhan, André 120 Knappett, Carl 83 Lesotho 158–161 197, 227, 228, 247, 329 Levi, Primo 211 Knock Off Enterprises project Lezama Lima, José 48–49 (Lung) 285 Liberty, Arthur Lasenby 305 Kofi, Vincent 386 Liebes, Dorothy 307, 309, 310, 313 Konaté, Abdoulaye 301, 323, Lind, Maria 219 375–377, 386 Lindisfarne‐Tapper, N. 258 Kopytoff, Igor 69, 89 21, 28, 31, 34, 109 Koraïchi, Rachid 384–385, 386 Lipman, Jean 438 Kowalewska, Marta 403 Lira, Jorge 49–50 Kozlov, Pyotr 111 Lithuania 397, 406–408, 407, 410 Kraamer, Malika 130, 372 Liu Xinru 110 Kramer, Hilton 424 Livingston, Jane 441, 442 Kriger, C. 39 Łódź Triennial, Poland 408 Kristeva, Julia 225–226 “Log Cabin” quilt Kroll, Boris 309 biography 93, 94, 95 Kubiš, Jan 210 deep description 89–91, 89, 90, 91, Kuchta, D. 36 92, 92 Kuhn, D. 119 description 83–84, 84 Kumai, Kyoko 367–368 detail 85, 86 Kunmanara, K. 463 display 100 Kusama, Yayoi 320 “log cabin” technique 84 Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan maker 93, 95, 99 (KMVS) 62, 75 museological issues/context 89 Kyambi, Syowia 383–384, 384, 386 pieced quilt 84

bindex.indd 488 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM INDEX ◼ ◼ ◼ 489

textile history 95–99, 96 Mainardi, Patricia 219, 228–229, viewing at museum 86–87, 89–91, 89, 230–231 90, 91, 94, 96 Maines, Rachel 277 viewing online 84, 85 Maison de ma mère, Algérie, La (Sedira) Loir‐Mondragon, É 36 260–263, 261, 271 Lominska Johnson, Elizabeth 426 Malangatana 158 Looking On (Betterton) 224 Malanima, P. 30 “loom thinking” 403 Malcolm, Lyn 321–323 loom weights 18–19, 19, 21, 22 Mali 131–132, 135, 139, 140, 375–377, looms 401, 402 Chinese 112–113, 116–117 MAMA! Women Artists Together 220–221 definition 129 Manalansan, Martin F. 280–281 double‐ looms 129, 129, 130, Maniar, Sonal 76 131, 131, 133, 134–135, 151 Marchand, Barb P. 429 foot‐powered broadloom 373 marketing 33, 62, 78, 158; see also Jacquard 329, 330, 358–359 commoditization single‐heddle looms 130, 132–133, Marshak, Boris 114 134, 135 Martínez, Juan Luis 46 takabata 368 Marzio, Peter 441 warp‐weighted 13, 18–19, 21, 22 Masada World Heritage Site, Israel 117 “Looms Everywhere” (Lind) 219 Masheck, Joseph 399 Loren, D.D.P. 37 Maskiell, Michelle 65 Lorenzetto, Adeline 425 Massey, Douglas 283 Lost and Collected (Hoette) 469, Massumi, Brian 335, 340 470, 471 “Masterless Way, The” Low, Anne 219–220 (Gillespie) 223–224 Lowcock, Mark 145 Matbabaev, Bokijon 115 Lowe, Adam 400 materiality 2, 202, 236, 339, 347–348, Lowe, Lisa 280 403, 405 Luminous and the Grey, The Mathiassen, T.E. 36 (Batchelor) 348 Mathur, Saloni 169 Lung, Carole Frances 284–290, Matisse, Henri 300 286, 290 Mauthausen concentration camp, Austria Lurçat, Jean 403 213–214 lurex 128, 137 Mayo School of Art, Lahore 171, 172 Lynch Quilts Project, The (Storm) 291 McDonald, R.A. 37 Lynd, Juliet 47 McKendrick, N. 28, 29 Lyon Biennial, France 399 McKenna, Reginald 209 Lyons, G. Jarvis 84, 95 McLaughlin, R. 110 McLerran, Jennifer 430 Mackenzie, Regina 195–196 Melanesia 189, 193, 194, 196 Madagascar 151–152 memory 47, 93–94, 214, 243–245, 271, Maggie Magaba Trust 231 327–328, 386, 454 Magnenat, Marguerite 403 Menace, La (Konaté) 376 Mahama, Ibrahim 372, 380–383, 382, Mend, A (Sifuentes) 279, 281–282, 281 386, 387, 399 Méndez Ramírez, Hugo 47 Maharaj, Sarat 238, 250, 300, 323, Menelik II of Ethiopia 149 326, 402 Menkes, Suzy 242

bindex.indd 489 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 490 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

men’s dress cultural theory 304–306 Asia 179, 192 entrepreneurial projects 306 Caribbean 248–249, 249 late‐twentieth‐century decline East Africa 147–149, 149–150, 151, 312–313 152, 154–155 legacy 312–313 Europe 31, 35, 36 overview 303–304 Mexico 360 weaving and tapestry 306–308 Pacific Islands 193–194 Monks and Merchants (Juliano and West Africa 143, 373 Lerner) 110 men’s textile work Montgomery, Charles 85 Africa 129, 129, 130, 131, 133, 156 Montgomery, Florence 96 Asia 63, 192 Monument Quilt project 291 industrialized hierarchies 275–276 Morely, Grace 307 Meskimmon, Marsha 339 Morgan, P.D. 37 Mesopotamia 20 Moriguchi, Kunihiko 363–364 metal 301, 324, 324, 360, 361–362, 361, Morocco 385 367–368, 374–375, 376 Morris, Frances 328 metaphors 226, 236, 237–238, 259, 260, Morris, Robert 319 327, 349; see also “Oro es tu hilar” Morris, William 305 (Vicuña); Vicuña, Cecilia Moscow Biennial, Russia 397 Metcalf, Eugene W., Jr. 444, 449 Moshoeshoe I of South Sotho 159, 160 Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Mozambique 153, 156–158, 157 109, 301, 374, 375, 385, 436 Mughal Empire 63 Mexico 183, 284, 311, 312, 360 Munchaktepe silks 115–117 Microcron Begins (Owusu‐Ankomah) Munns, J. 32 377, 378 Murdoch, Tamara 467 Micronesia 188, 192, 194 museological issues; see also biennials/ Millar, Lesley 327 triennials Miller, George Bures 399 catalog as apparatus 441 Miller, Kei 235, 240, 250–252 critics disagreements about ‘art’/‘not Miller, Marla R. 276 art’ 445–447, 449–450 mimetic comportment 341–344 deciding ‘art’ and ‘not art’ 439, “Mind in Matter” (Prown) 85–86 441–442 Minee’eskw 420 display methods 443–444 Minzoku Ishou to Senshoku exhibition distancing object from process/ (Arai) 360, 362–363, 367 maker 443 “Miriam Schapiro and ‘Femmage’” “modern eye” strategy 392, (Broude) 227–228 438–441, 453 mirrorwork 65, 66 repatriation claims 466 Mitchell, W. J. T. 204–205 shaping value 436–437 Miyake, Issey 353, 361, 366–367, 369 shaping ways of seeing works 88–89, Miyazaki, Yuzensai 363 439, 440–441, 447–448 modernist textiles, development of White Cube neutral space 392, American textile industry and design 393, 439 308–309 Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), New Angel’s Watch (Van de Velde) 305 York 308, 310, 311, 312, 320, consumer culture 309–311 367, 393, 400, 421–422, 422, 436, cross‐cultural connections 311–312 437–438

bindex.indd 490 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM INDEX ◼ ◼ ◼ 491

Muslim veiling practices Reflections of the Weaver’s artworks 271–272 World 424 Maison de ma mère, Algérie, La Robes of Power 426–428, 427 (Sedira) 260–263, 261 Song of the Loom, The 424 Silent Witness (Sedira) 267–270, 268 Weaving the World 425 Terrorist: Nadjibeh (Hassanzadeh) 2000–present exhibitions 263–266, 264 eyeDazzler (Wilson) 430–431, 431 Euro‐American views 257–258, 263, Journeying into Form 429–430 268–269, 270–271 Smash 428–429 gendered aesthetics 262–263 Time Warp 428 gendered behavior expectations 269 Weaving Is Life 430 Islamic art 259 acceptance as fine art 418, 419–420 Ka‘ba, veiling of the 259–260 button blankets 420, 421, 423, kiswa 259–260 426–428, 427 postcolonial veils centrality to Native art history 417 mimicry and double critique Chilkat weaving 418, 420, 421, 422, 266–270, 268 423, 425–426, 429 speaking back 263–266, 264 Coast Salish 418, 419, 423, 425, 426, revealing and concealing 260 428–429 veil in context 259–263, 261 display methods 421, 422 veiling as metaphor 260 Hawai’i 428 Musoke, Theresa 383 Mi’kmaq 428 Mycenaean kingdoms 20 Navajo 393, 417, 418–419, 421, 422, mysticism 147–148, 385 423–425, 428, 430–431, 431 Northwest Coast 417, 418–421, National College of Arts (NCA), 422–423, 425–428, 427, Lahore 172–173 428–429 National Institute of Design (NID) Pueblo 428 (India) 74, 175 Raven’s Tail robes 428, 429 National Museum of Japanese History, scholarship on Sakura 354, 355, 356, 357 anthropological studies 418–419 Native North American textiles colonial fashion 38 1900–1969 exhibitions Indian Arts in North America 1939 Golden Gate International (Vaillant) 420–421 Exposition 420–421 Indian Blankets and Their Makers “Decorative Arts of the American (James) 418–419 Indian” 419 Salish Weaving (Gustafson) 425 Exhibition of Canadian West Coast Wells’ writing 425 Art 419–420 Tlingit 417, 418, 419, 423, 425–426, Exposition of Indian Tribal Arts 419 427–428, 429 Indian Art of the United States Venice Biennale 1932 419 421–422, 422 Navajo Blanket, The, exhibition 418, People of the Potlatch 422–423 423–424 1970–2000 exhibitions Navajo Weaving in the Late Twentieth Hands of our Ancestors 426 Century (Hedlund) 424 Navajo Blanket, The 418, 423–424 Nehru, Jawaharlal 74 Navajo Weaving in the Late Twentieth Nelson, Elizabeth White 207–208 Century (Hedlund) 424 Nelson, George 312

bindex.indd 491 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 492 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

Neolithic period 12, 19 O’Brien, Meghann 429–430 Nepal 17–18 Occupation and Labour, Railways Neruda, Pablo 47 (Mahama) 399 Netherlands 30, 31, 106, 107, 141–142, “Occupation Series” (Mahama) 150, 159, 326, 356, 379 380–383, 382 New Breed Clothing Company, New Oceania; see also specific country York 150 Cold War political context 460–461 New France 32 collectives 461, 462, 464–465 New Ireland 192 Collett, Chrissy 471–472 New Zealand 188, 189, 191, 193, 197, community, meanings of 464 464, 465–468, 468 cultural crossings 460 Newell, J. 188 defined 459 Newman, Barnett 440 Dono, Heri 460, 461–463 Newman, Elizabeth 471, 472 fashion workshops 471–472 Nexus Architecture, 50 Interventions Gotong Royong 461, 463 Hangzhou (Orta and Orta) 411 Hoette, Ruby 469, 470, 471 Nezâm‐ol‐Molk, Khajeh 114 Imagined Communities (Anderson) 460 Nicholsen, Shierry Weber 342 Kngwarreye, Emily 463–464 Niger 130, 135 Newman, Elizabeth 471, 472 Nigeria 128, 130, 132, 134–135, 136, recycling 462–463 137, 138, 139, 143, 326; see also Ruki, Keren 197, 465–466, 467, 468 Anatsui, El Terorist Batik (Dono) 460, Nihon no Fashion exhibition 357–358 461–462, 464 niqabs see Muslim veiling practices O’Connor, Brian 344 Nkrumah, Kwame 143, 373 Odzor, Duncan 373–374 Nochlin, Linda 322 Official Unofficial Voting Station, The Noland, Kenneth 424 (Sifuentes) 284 Nomura, Shojiro 356 Ogden, Huldah 93, 94, 95, 99 Noriega, Chon A. 280–281 Ogunquit School of Painting and North Africa 142, 384–386; see also Sculpture, Maine 437 specific country Okeke, Uche 375 North America 37, 87, 88, 89, 196; Olaniyi, Nike 139 see also Native North American Old Mistresses (Parker and Pollock) 299 textiles; specific country Oldenburg, Claes 319 Northwest Coast Indigenous tribes 417, Olsen, Bjørnar 350 418–421, 422–423, 425–428, 427, Omai (Reynolds) 188 428–429 On Weaving (Albers) 308 Norway 120 operational chains 120 nostalgia 338–339 oral culture 52–53 “Nouvelle Cythère” (Bougainville) 193 Organic Design in Home Furnishings Ntila, Robino 145 competition 310 Nueva novela (Martínez) 46 Orientalism 263, 271, 385 Numair, Afsheen 177–178 “Oro es tu hilar” (Vicuña) 309 Andean cosmovision 55 balance, semantic and phonetic 52 Obama, Barack 282–283 interweaving of Andean and non‐ object analysis 83, 85–86 Andean culture 50 objecthood 346 Lezama Lima, citing 48–49

bindex.indd 492 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM INDEX ◼ ◼ ◼ 493

location 53 masquerades 190 oral culture 52–53 men’s dress 193–194 prayers 48–49, 50–51 men’s textile work 192 Quechua 49–50 mixing old and new fabrics 197 quotes about weaving 49 modernity 194–197, 195 reperforming the weaving 55 “Mother Hubbard” 194 senses 56–57 nakedness vs. dress 193–194 spatial layout 51 nationalist decolonization 196–197 speech‐fiber arts relationship 49–50 paint and oil 189–190 technology 55–56 patterning 196 versified weaving 49 puberty 190 52 quilting 192–193 weaver’s mind 53, 54 race 196–197 weaver’s motions 53–54 “rag trade” 196 women and weaving 53, 58 region/nation/tribe 187–190, 189, word‐weaving relationship 48–49, 50, 194–195, 195 52–53, 57–58 sewing and embroidery 192–193 world as loose textile 54–55, 56 social status 190–191 Orta, Lucy and Jorge 411 string items, netted/woven 189 O’Sullivan, Simon 340 t‐shirts 196 Otani Kozui, Count 111–112 taonga 191 Otavsky, Karel 110–111 tapa cloth 187, 188, 190–191, 196 Othering 4, 258, 270, 271, 400–401 tattoos 190, 191, 194, 197 Empire 39 tourism’s impact 190, 191, 196 Out of Bounds (Mahama) 381–382 traditional and new designs 196–197 Owidzka, Jolanta 408 urbanization 197 Owusu‐Ankomah, Kwesi 377–378 women’s dress 188, 189, 192, 194, 195 women’s textile work 192–193 Pacific identities; see also Oceania woven mats 191 Christianity 192, 193–194 Paepe‐van Hall, Maria Elisabeth de 305 colonialism 192, 193–194 Pajaczkowska, Claire 226, 347 communal selfhood 191 Pakistan cotton 192–193, 194 art and design education 172 defining ‘Pacific’ 187 Blocked brand 177–178 defining ‘textile’ 187 contemporary art 171–174 dyes 191 craft revival 175–177 feathers 191 design entrepreneur case studies floral shirts 191 177–178, 178 gender 192–193 Design Intervention course 174–177 globalization 196, 197 embroidery 178 grass skirts 192 Indus Valley School of Art and Hollywoodization 190 Architecture (IVS) 175–177 knitting 197 industrialization 175 leis 190 Khaadi brand 177, 178 loincloths 194 Mayo School of Art/National College mana 190–191 of Arts (NCA), Lahore 171, Maori materials 188 172–173 masks 189, 190 national identity 172–173

bindex.indd 493 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 494 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

Pakistan (cont’d) Pins and Needles (Sewing Rebellion) 287 pluralism, social 171–172 Pistoletto, Michelangelo 320 quilting 87, 88, 89 Pliny the Elder 14, 117 remaking tradition 175–178, 178 Poetics of Cloth, The, exhibition 374 Seven Seas, The (Syed) 325, 325 poetry see “Oro es tu hilar” (Vicuña); tradition 173–174 Vicuña, Cecilia paleoenvironmental data 19–20 Poland 320–321, 358, 367, Paleolithic period 12 403–404, 408 Pankhurst, Christabel 206, 207 Pollock, Griselda 222–223, 225, 299, 321 Pankhurst, Emmeline 206, 207, 208, 209 Pollock, Jackson 440 Pap World Heritage Site, Uzbekistan 115 Porter, R. 31 Papa Essel 378 Portugal 152, 157, 158, 159 Papastergiadis, Nikos 202 prayers 48–49, 50–51, 53 Papua New Guinea 188, 189, 190, 192, Present Is a Ruin Without the People, The 195, 195, 196–197 (Chishti) 174, 174 Paresys, I. 35 Presiado, Mor 183, 211, 213–214 Parker, Rozsika 208, 209, 214, 231, Prichard, Sue 222 275–278, 290, 291, 299, 321, 400 prisoners, textile works of 201 Pattern Lab painters 231 Albrechtová, Františka 210–214, 212 Paul, William 435 Terrero, Janie 205–210, 206 Pauli, Alice and Pierre 403 Project Anthropoid 210–214 Paulson, Pam 451, 452, 453 Protest Banner Lending Library Paz, Octavio 47 (Sifuentes) 284 Peers, Simon 152 Prown, Jules 85–86 Pellegrin, N. 32 Pueblo people 428 Pelliot, Paul 111, 113 purple dye 14–15, 20, 97–98 Penelope’s Labour: Weaving Words and Purvis, June 209 Images exhibition 400 Pensky, Max 342 Quechua language 48, 49–50 People of the Potlatch exhibition 422–423 quilting Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, The Abstract Design in American Quilts 149, 165 exhibition 438–441 Perkin, William 98 acquisition of cloth pieces 98–99 Perreault, J. 299 architectural references 445, 446, Perry, Grayson 222, 317, 411, 465 447–448 Peru 15, 38 as art 228, 453–454 Peters, Mary 425 critics disagreements about ‘art’/’not Pethick‐Lawrence, Emmeline 208 art’ 445–447, 449–450 Pettway, Loretta 442, 450 cultural comparisons 87, 88, 89 Pettway, Lucy 446 cultural diversity 87 Pettway, Nancy 445 dyes 97–98 Picasso, Pablo 230–231 fabrics 95–97 Pido, Donna 155 French Collection, The (Ringgold) “story Piece of Cloth, A (Miyake) 353, 366 quilts” 231 Piera, Hassanali Gulamhusein 153–154 Gee’s Bend quilts see Gee’s Bend quilts Piera, Kassamali Gulamhusein 153–154 “log cabin” technique 84–85, 84, 85; Pillar of Inquiry/Supple Column see also “Log Cabin” quilt (Hicks) 317, 318 Pacific 192–193

bindex.indd 494 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM INDEX ◼ ◼ ◼ 495

political expression 231, 291 Rivers, Victoria Z. 72 Quilts exhibition 221–222 Robes of Power exhibition 426–428, 427 Seven Seas, The (Syed) 325, 325 Roccatagliata, Coca 46 sewing machines, use of 98 Roche, D. 29, 30, 34 Soweto exhibition 231 Rockefeller, Abby Aldrich 437–438 values assigned to 437 Rodrigue, Tanya 204 West Africa 140–141 Rofkar, Teri 429 Quilts exhibition 221–222 Roman Empire 14–15, 21, 111, 112, 117 “Quilts” (Mainardi) 228, 230–231 Roscoe, J. 156 Quilts of Gee’s Bend, The exhibition Rosenberg, Eric 201, 204 435–436, 441–444 Ross, Gloria 424 Ross, M. 221 Rabari community 63, 64, 65, 66–67, 66, Rossbach, Ed 307 67–69, 68, 77 Rothko, Mark 440 racism 231, 239, 242, 247, 249, 263, Rothstein, Arthur 444 278, 279–280, 280–281, 284 Route de la soie, La, exhibition 114 raffia 135, 138, 139 Rublack, U. 35–36 al‐Rahman, Abd 114 rugs 420, 461–462; see also carpets Rainy Day Canapé (Tanning) 320 Ruki, Keren 197, 465–466, 467, 468, 468 Randall, Robert 49 Rumford, Beatrix 438 Raspopova, Valentina 114 Russia 21, 111, 397, 461–462 rationality 342–343 Ryan, M. M. 154 Rauschenberg, Robert 319 Ryan, Virginia 380 Raven’s Tail robes 428, 429 Ryder, Michael 16 Rebentisch, Juliane 342 Ryggen, Hannah 402 recycled objects, use of artworks 174, 174, 460–461, 462, 467, Saborami (Vicuña) 46 469, 470, 471 Salish Weaving (Gustafson) 425 clothes 356, 366–367, 369 Saltzman, Lisa 201, 204 quilts see quilting Same Earth, The (Miller) 235, 240, tourist market goods 72–73, 73 250–252 Reflections of the Weaver’s World samitum 115, 116–117 (Ross) 424 Samoa 188, 189, 191, 194 Reichard, Gladys 418–419 Samuel, Cheryl 425–426 Reichek, Elaine 329–330 Sans, Jérôme 399 Reid, Martine 428 São Paulo Biennial, Brazil 321, 396 Rejection (Bourgeois) 328 Sapon‐Shevin, Mara 202 resonance 339–340 Sarabhai, Mrinalini 74 Reynolds, Joshua 188 Sargentson, C. 33 rhetorics of disaster 203–204 Sasanian Empire 112, 120 Richards, P. 32 Saurashtra Handicrafts 71, 72 Richardson, C. 32 Schaleck, Malva 216 Richardson, Su 220–221, 223–224 Schapiro, Miriam 227–228, 229, 230, Riegl, Alois 304 322–323 Riello, Giorgio 83 Schneider, Jane 182, 210, 237 Ringgold, Faith 231 Schuurman, A.J. 31 Rivard, Paul 96–97 Scott, C. 203 Rivera, Francisco 46 Scott, Sue 223–224

bindex.indd 495 6/15/2020 4:13:08 PM 496 ◼ ◼ ◼ INDEX

Scramble for Africa (Shonibare) 326 Sogdiana silks 115 Sedira, Zineb 260–263, 261, 267–270, tabbies 112, 113, 115, 116–117 268, 271 taqueté 115–116 Seigworth, G.J. 347 trade and exchange see Silk Road studies Seleucid Empire 112 When Silk Was Gold exhibit 109 Semper, Gottfried 304 Zandaniji silks 113–115 Sen, Amartya 176 Silk Road studies Senegal 136, 138 archaeological silk finds 18, 111–113 Sense and Sensibility in Feminist Art beginning of Silk Road exchanges 111 Practice exhibition 222 fiber technologies 119–120 senses 56–57, 347–348, 453–454 foreign interest in China 112 Serizawa, Keisuke 364–365 geographic description 109 Seven Seas, The (Syed) 325, 325 idea/skill transmission 119, 120 sewing machines 98, 242–243, 280, 285, international interest 111–113 287–288, 309 looms 112–113, 116–117 Sewing Rebellion workshops (Lung) Munchaktepe silks 115–117 286–290, 286, 290 operational chains 120 Shaikh, Nargis 74 patterned silks 112–113 Shannon, T.J. 38 Roman wool taqueté 117 Shapur I, King 112 scholarship history 110 Shaw, Alexander 187 Taklamakan Desert wool finds 117–119 Shaw, Robert 84 textiles in museum exhibits 109, Shepherd, Dorothy 113–114, 115 110–111 Shine, Jacqui 227 tomb of master‐weaver Wan 113 Shonibare, Yinka 231, 300, 325–326, 372 When Silk Was Gold exhibit 109 Shōsō‐in collection 111–112, 353 Zandaniji silks 113–115 Shroff, Chandaben 75, 77 Silk Roads Project, The (UNESCO) 110 shroud of St. Mengold 114 silk‐screening 263–264, 264, 265, Shrujan Trust 69, 75–77, 78, 78 311, 464 Sierra Leone 132–133, 138, 143 Silverman, Kaja 271 Sifuentes, Aram Han 184, 278–279, Sims‐Williams, Nicholas 114 281–284, 281, 283 Singh, Bhai Ram 172 sign/function 57 386, 408 Sikander, Shazia 257 Skirting (Bendon) 232 Silent Witness (Sedira) 267–270, 268, 271 slavery 37–38, 106, 114, 140, 142, 245, silk 251, 277 Africa 131, 135, 136, 140, 149, 150, Sloan, John 419 151–152, 156–157 Smash exhibition 428–429 archaeological finds 18, 111–113 Smith, Cauleen 284 China 111–113 Smith, Jaime 430 Japan 354, 355–356, 356–357, 368 Smithsonian Institution 3, 228, 392, 393 looms 116–117 Social Fabric exhibition 145 metal added to 469 social identities 13–14 Munchaktepe silks 115–117 social status 65, 67, 69, 151, 156, 178, qi 115 190–191, 206, 207, 236–237, reeled vs spun yarn 119 280–281, 287–288 samitum 115, 116–117 Sofaer, Joanna 202 Shōsō‐in collection 112 Soft Pictures exhibition 317

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soft sculptures 319–320, 327, 328, Subversive Stitch, The (Parker) 275–278, 328, 379 280, 290, 299, 400 Sogdian language 114 Sudan 147–149 Sogdiana silks 115, 116–117 suffragettes 205–210, 206 Solomon Islands 196 Sultan, Shamoon 177–178, 178 Somalia 149–151, 153 Swaziland 159 Song of the Loom, The exhibition 424 Switzerland 110–111, 120, 402–406, Sonnevend, Jan 213 404, 408, 409, 410 South Africa 107, 155, 158–161, Syed, Risham 173–174, 324–325, 325 160, 327 syncretism 38, 237, 462, 473 South America 15, 320, 404; see also Syria 19, 20, 21, 106, 107, 112, 117, specific country 150, 385 South Asia 69, 87, 165, 166, 171, 324–325, 325; see also specific tablet weaving 13, 150–151 country Taeuber‐Arp, Jean and Sophie 306 South Korea 329 Tagoe‐Turkson, Patrick 380 South Sotho 159–161, 160 Tahiti 187, 188, 191, 192, 193, 194 southern Africa 152, 158–161, 160; Taklamakan Desert, China 111, 117–119 see also specific country Takyi IX, Togbe 373, 374 Soweto exhibition 231 Tall, Papa Ibra 136 Spahan, Rose 428 Tanning, Dorothea 317, 320 Spain 31–32, 35 Tanzania 145–146, 146–147, Sparrow, Debra 426 152–156, 158 Spence, Jo 224, 226 tapestry work 118, 136, 306, 307–308, Spencer, Mary 442 327, 330, 400, 402–406, 404, spindle whorls 18 409, 424 Spivak, Gayatri Chakravorty 401 Tarlo, Emma 71 splicing 15–16 tartans 99, 154–156 Sponenburgh, Mark 172 Taube, Judith 213–214 staging 337, 346–347 Tawadros, Gilane 240 Stallybrass, Peter 34, 454 Tawney, Lenore 317 “Starting with Rag Rugs” (Walker) technical determinism 304 226–227 Tekpor IV, Togbe 372 Staying Power exhibition 235–236 Terorist Batik (Dono) 460, 461–462, 464 Staying Power, the History of Black People Terrero, Janie 201, 202, 205–210, in Britain (Fryer) 235–236 206, 214 Stein, Aurel 111, 116, 117, 118 Terrorist: Nadjibeh (Hassanzadeh) Stewart, Susan 56–57 263–266, 264, 271 Stobart, J. 33 Tewodros II of Ethiopia 149 Stock Design 72 “Textile Art – Who Are You” Stockwell, Susan 222 (Marharaj) 300 Stooss, Tony 405 Textile Manufactures and the Costumes of the Storm, Lashawnda Crowe 291 People of India, The (Watson) 167 Storr, Robert 453 Textile Museum of Canada (TMC), Strained Roots (Anatsui) 376 Toronto 87, 88, 89; see also “Log Strengell, Marianne 307, 309, 310, 313 Cabin” quilt studios, artists’ 229, 230–232 Textile Research Centre, Leiden 120 Styles, J. 34 Textile Subtexts exhibition 219

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Textiles and Ornamental Arts of India defining 128 exhibition 311–312 invention of 464 textiles, definitions of 11–12, 187, 205 modern appropriation 311 Textiles: Open Letter exhibition 400 refashion of goods 72–73, 73 Textiles USA exhibition 312 saving and modernizing 170–178, 173, Textures of Memory project 327 174, 178 Theresienstadt concentration camp, in transnational space 166–170, 168 Czechoslovakia 211–213, 212 youth’s disregard for 77 thingness 346 Tradition and Creation exhibition Things (Brown) 346 361, 362 Thomas, Angharad 223–224 Transmitting Robes, Linking Minds Thornley, Margery 154 exhibition 355 Thornton, J. 39 transnational space 169, 170 Three Women in a Dormitory (Schaleck) 216 trauma 203–205; see also Albrechtová, Time Warp exhibition 428 Františka; Terrero, Janie Tisdall, Caroline 223 Trauma and Visuality in Modernity Tlingit people 417, 418, 419, 423, (Saltzman and Rosenberg) 204 425–426, 427–428, 429 Tribu No group 45–46 Tohi, Sopolemalama Filipe 189, 189 triennials see biennials/triennials TOKYO FIBER ‘07 SENSEWARE Trobriand Islands 192 exhibition 357 Trockel, Rosemarie 329 Tolossa, Fikre 377 Trump, Donald 283–284 Tonga 187, 188, 189, 189, 191, 192, Tucker, J. 110 194, 197 Tucker, Marcia 401 Torras Elias, J. 31–32 Tuhono Te Karangarua (Ruki) 465–466 trade, international; see also Silk Road Tulloch, Carol 277 studies Tupaia 467–468, 468 ancient 16–18, 20 Turkey 18, 19, 397 China 108, 149, 157, 165, 356, 379 Twists, Turns and Broken Doors East Africa 145–146, 147, 149, 150, (Amenuke) 379 151–152, 153–154, 155, Tyabji, Laila 74–75 156–157, 158 Europe 36, 105–106, 136, 142, Uganda 139, 145, 152–156 145–146, 147, 152, 153, 156, United Kingdom 159, 165–166, 170–171 art hierarchies, challenging 321–322 Japan 356–357 Black Arts Movement 239, 240 North America 37, 38, 155, 156 colonialism 31, 32, 37, 140–141, South Asia 63, 72–73, 106, 107, 108, 165–171, 325, 325 109, 149, 150, 152, 159, 165–167, control/exploitation of women’s labor 170–171, 305, 324–325, 325 276–277 southern Africa 159, 160 “cotton famine” 97 West Africa 39, 106, 107, 135, 136–137, early modern period scholarship 28, 29, 140, 141, 142, 379 32, 33, 34, 36 Trade, Travel, War, and Faith (Whitfield feminist approaches to art 221, 224 and Sims‐Williams) 110 gendered hierarchies 276–277 tradition Industrial Revolution 107 branding 77–78, 78 Morris’ merging of hand and machine commoditization 68–69, 69–73, 73, 464 processes 305

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participatory art projects 463 Super Designers and Techno‐Craftsmen printed fabrics 141–142, 310–311 309, 312 purple dye‐works 98 trade and exchange 155, 156 trade and exchange 145–146, 159, unions 288 165–170 worker centers 288–289 West Indians see African diaspora, Britain’s US Citizenship Test Sampler project Women’s Peace Camp at Greenham (Sifuentes) 282–284, 283 Common 229–230 Uzbekistan 87, 113–117 women’s suffrage campaigns 183, 205–210, 206 Vaillant, George 420–421 United States Vainker, S. 39 African‐American quilts see Gee’s Bend Vaissière, É.d.l 110 quilts Van de Velde, Henri 305 anti‐immigration policies 282–284 Van der Hoof, Gail 392, 436, 438, 439 art hierarchies, challenging 322–323 Van der Monakker, Toon 150 Civil War 97, 99, 156 Vancouver Special exhibition 219 colonial 37 Vanderkoop, Evelyn 428 disenfranchisement 284 Vanuatu 191, 194, 196 embroidery 277 Varbanov, Maryn 409 exploitation of labor 288–289 Variations autour de l’Indigo Gee’s Bend quilts see Gee’s Bend quilts (Koraïchi) 385 home ownership and race 280–281 Veil (El Guindi) 259 home sewing 287–288 Venere degli stracci (Pistoletto) 320 immigrant labor 278–279, 280 Venkatachalam, G. 73–74 immigrant labor, exploitation of Victoria, Queen 99 280–281, 281–282, 281 Vicuña, Cecilia “Log Cabin” quilt see “Log Andean cosmovision 48, 51, 55 Cabin” quilt Andean metaphors 47–48 Mend America events 290 “Antivero” 45 merikani cloth 155, 156 cultural reconciliation 47 National Labor Relations Act 289 exile 46 Native Americans see Native North interrelatedness of everything 45 American textiles khipu 47 Pattern and Decoration La Wik’uña 48 Movement 323 language weaving 45, 46–47, 48 quilting 99–100; see also Gee’s Bend link to Chilean peers 46–47 quilts; “Log Cabin” quilt new thinking/awareness 47 sewing machines 98 objectives 46 Sewing Rebellion workshops “Oro es tu hilar” see “Oro es tu hilar” (Lung) 286–290, 286, 290 (Vicuña) sweatshops 285–286 Saborami 46 textile industry, 20th‐century text‐textile‐woman 48 consumer culture 309–311 Tribu No group 45–46 cross‐cultural connections 311–312 Vikings 120 decline 312–313 Vincent, S. 34 golden age 308–309 Vitkienė, Virginija 407 Kaufmann’s Department Store, Vlisco Textiles 142, 150 Pittsburgh 309–310 von Richthofen, Ferdinand 109

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Wagner, Richard 305 dyes 137, 138–139 Walker, Kate 220–221, 223–224, 226–227 embroidery 140 Walker, T.J. 38 Ewe weavers 130–131, 133–134, 135 Walking with Our Sisters project foreign trade 136–137 (Belcourt) 291 hand‐spinning 135 wall‐hangings 232, 313 Hausa weavers 132, 133 Walsh, L.S. 31 imported materials 136–137 Walsh, Maria 221, 223, 224 indigo and other dyes 135, 137–139 Walthamstow Tapestry, The (Perry) 411 Indonesian 326 Wan, tomb of 113 influence outside Africa 142 Wardlaw, Alvia J. 435, 441, 442, 444 kampala dyeing 139 Wark, Jane 269 130 Warner, Langdon 111 130 Water has never feared the fire local 135–136 (Khalid) 173 lurex 137 Watson, Grant 400 Madam Fathia design 132 Watson, Helen 258 Mali Fulani weavers 131–132 Watson, John Forbes 165–170 Manjak draw looms 132 “We Are Not Other, We Are Us” Manjak weavers 132 (Himid) 250 men’s dress 143, 373 Weatherill, L. 29–30 national and ethnic identities 142–143 Weaving a World (Willink and ostentation 135 Zolbrod) 425 overview 127–128 Weaving Is Life exhibition 430 patchwork 140–141 weaving technologies see looms patterning 130, 132, 133, 134 Weiner, Annette B. 182, 237 quilting 140–141 Welch, E. 34 raffia yarn 135 Wells, Oliver 425 rayon 136–137 Wendt, Selene 329 Sierra Leone looms 132–133 West Africa; see also specific country silk 135, 136 adinkra 139–140, 377 single‐heddle looms 130, 134 dyeing 138–139 tapestry work 136 African‐print cloth 141–142 technologies of weaving 128–136, 129, alternative weave structures 136 131, 132 anti‐colonialism 143 technology, defining 127–128 appliqué 140–141 trade 141, 142 Asante weavers 130–131, 133–134, tradition 142 135, 136–137, 139–140 viscose 137 aso oke 130, 131, 133 women’s dress 138, 139, 143, Barathea 137 373, 374 bast yarn 135 wool 130, 135, 137 bogolan dyeing 139 Yoruba weavers 133, 134–135, colors, symbolism in 251 138–139 cotton 135, 137 What Is Modern Design (Kaufmann design possibilities 134 Jr.) 310 double‐heddle looms 129, 129, 131, “What Is the Difference?” (Pollock) 222 134–135 Wheeler, Wendy 338–339

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When Silk Was Gold exhibit 109 Women’s Social and Political Union White, Elizabeth 419 (WSPU) 205, 206–207, 208 White, G. 37 women’s textile work White, S. 37, 38 Africa 129, 130, 134–135, 151–152 Whitney Biennial, New York 317, ancient 18–19, 19, 21, 22 318, 404 apparel manufacturing industry Whitney Museum of American Art, 277–278, 279–281 New York 284, 317, 318, 392, art hierarchies, challenging 321–323 404, 435, 436, 438, 439–441, Europe 287–288; see also Subversive 443, 452 Stitch, The (Parker) Who Killed Les Demoiselles d’Avignon? feminist approach see feminist (Amer) 326 approaches Why Have We So Few Great Women Artists? North America 287–288, 425; see also (Malcolm) 322 Gee’s Bend quilts; “Log Cabin” quilt Wijsenbeek‐Olthuis, T. 30 Pacific Islands 191, 192, 197 WikiLeaks Dress (Newman) 471, 472 South America 48, 53, 58 Wik’uña, La (Vicuña) 48 South Asia 178; see also Gujarat hand Wilding, Faith 321, 322 embroidery Williams, John 194 “Women’s Time” (Kristeva) 225–226 Willink, Roseann 425 Wong, Kent 289 Wilson, Anne 317 wool Wilson, Will 430–431, 431 Africa 131, 135, 148 Winged Dresses (Dono) 462–463 ancient use of 15–17, 19–20, 21 Woets, Rhoda 386 Asia 117–119 Wolcott, Marion Post 444 delaine 96–97 Women and Craft (Elinor et al, eds) evolutionary development 16–17, 17 223–224, 226–227 Middle East 117 WoMen, Fraulein Damsel & Me/Phase II North America 97, 429 Release (Kyambi) 383–384, 384 Oceania 467 “Women in Art History” conference 220 Woolston, Hulda Elizabeth 93, 94, 99 women’s dress World War II 210–214, 212, 214–215 apparel manufacturing industry 289 Wormalds & Walker Blanket Mill 161 East Africa 145, 146–147, 146, 150, Worringer, Wilhelm 304 151, 152, 153, 154, 155–156, Woven Structure Pattern (Arai) 359 157–158, 157 Wrigley, R. 35 Europe 29, 31, 35, 37 Wu of Han, Emperor 111 Japan 355 Muslim 385; see also Muslim veiling Xia Nai 112–113 practices North America 38, 288 Yadin, Yigael 117 Pacific Islands 188, 189, 192, Yamagishi, Koichi 368–369 194, 195 Yanagi, Soetsu 364 southern Africa 160, 161 Yanagi, Sori 361, 365 West Africa 138, 139, 143, 373, 374 Yeğenoğlu, Meyda 258 Women’s Movement 321 Yemen 150–151 Women’s Peace Camp at Greenham Yohannes IV of Ethiopia 149 Common, UK 229–230 Yoshikawa, Kanpo 356

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Young, Annie Mae 443 Zapf, Marilyn 450, 451, 452, 453 Young, Nettie 445 Zeisler, Claire 404 Yun Casalilla, B. 31–32 Zepke, Stephen 349 Zhang Qian 111 Zamani Soweto Sisters Council 232 Zhao Feng 115, 116–117 Zandane, Uzbekistan 113–115 Zheng He 107, 149 Zandaniji silks 113–115 Zolbrod, Paul 425 Zanzibar 107, 146–147, 146, 153, 154 Zurita, Raúl 46

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