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DOCa Priorat. Nature's Mosaic

Rice and Shine Spanish Breakfast

DO Rueda. Reviving

85 May-August 2012. 6 € n the Mediterranean we eat supper not when the hands on the cloch SOL) Its time, but when our bodLj tells us we are hungr

Borges Extra Virgin Olive Oil t

There is no set time to eat because we have quite another concept Mediten-aneaji taste. Bor^es taste. of time. It Is a time rooted tn the senses, but also in nature. Like knowing that it is the right time to collect the best olives, which, when blended together, will produce a lighter, purer and more balanced oil. A healthier oil. Borges Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Here to show you that mealtime is the start of a different kind of time: a time to live as they do in the Mediterranean. New times, new approaches... And here at Gourmetour we can't—and won't— get left behind. After 26 years of publishing the paper version of our magazine, we're moving with the times and preparing to channel our energies into reaching our readers more nimbly, quickly and comprehensively online via the www.foodsfromspain.coin portal (page 4). In this, our final printed issue, we look at products that are notable for their enduringly deep attachment to their origins and tradition, products such as and rice, which have undergone a clever process of renovation with end results that will appeal to our readers all over the globe. This issue serves as a lirik between the present and the future, specifically the dynamism of content that www.foodslromspain.com represents. Our aim is for it to be readily accessible to all our readers and use this online platform to extend our catchment even further. In- depth reports on products and chefs, up-to-the-minute news and items of Spanish relevance from all over the world, and the gastronomic gen, hot from Spain, that will give your visits there that e.xtra edge... .All in all, quite a menu: it's accessible from wherever you are and designed to cater to your appetite for knowledge. So let's raise our glasses to the future, with a true Verdejo or a rich Priorat. red to mark the occasion in style. We look forward to your visits to the portal where, more than ever, your comments and input to www.foodfromspain.com will be most welcome. It's a resource that is as much yours as ours.

Spain Gourmetour [email protected] [email protected]

Editor-in-chief Advertising Awards Subscription: Cathy Boirac CEDISA Gold Ladle in Ihe Best Food Spam Gourmetour is a publication of the Span.sh Institute for Foreign Publication Coordinators [email protected] Magazine category, al Itie 2010 Le Cordon Bleu World Food Trade (ICEX) of the State Secretary Almudena Martin Rueda D.L: M-45307-1990 Media Awards for T'ade and Tourism. Ministry of Almudena Myyo ISSN: 0214-2937 Communications Award Industry, Tourism and Trade, Photographic Archive "Besi Journalistic Work" The magazine is issued three times NlPO: 726-12-008-5 a year In English, French. German MaCiel Manso from Alimentos de Esparia. and Spanish, and is distributed f'ee Editorial Secretary Cover 2006. Ministry of the Environment Toya Legido/aCEX of cfiarge to trade pfofessionals. Angela Castilla and Rural and Manne Affairs. If •)'OU vwant to subscribe to Spain Design and Art Direction Information and Publisher Marques de Busianos Award Gourmetour, please contact the Manuel Estrada De.s>gn ICEX from the Royal Spanish Academy Ecorxxnc and CommerciEi Offices at the Embassies of Spain Layaout State Secretary lor Trade, of Gastronomy. (see list on page 92). Chema Berme;o Ministry of Economy and "La Gula y Bachiller en Fogones Co.Tipetitiveness 1998" Award 'rom El Woevo Lunes, Maps The opinions expressed by www.icex.es a Spanish uveeWy economic putilrcation. Javier Belloso the authors of the articles are Oesign Award from the Spanish not necessanly shared by Color Separations Association of Design the Spanish Institute for Foreign Rasiercolof Professionals (AEDP). 1995. Trade (ICEX). which cannot be held responsible for any Printed in Spain Spanish Food Journalism Award. omissions or errors in the text. Artes GrSficas Pa:emio 1990. Min'Stry of the Environment and Rural and Marine Affairs. Special Gastronomy Award Printed on PEFC-cenified paper to promote the from the Fine Cuisine Association responsible management ai>d Itie Royal Spanish Academy of our forests. o( Gastronomy. 1988. SPAIN GOURMETOUR May-August 2012 No. 85

^wv-.•^uoL'ST2^)i2 SR\IN GOURMETOL'S Editorial 1 Food Basics Colophon Rice. Rice and Shine 42 Have a Spanish Break! www.foodsfromspain.com Recipes 52 Rodolfo Gerschman from Click to Taste 4 Mexico Cily 84 Bread, Upper Crust 58 Recipes 68 Colors Regular Features Lasting Impressions 86 Breakfast. Wakey Wakey! ...8 Close-up Ad Index 88 Jose Luis Ungidos. Exporters 90 Julio Restaurant 72 Spain Overseas 92 Credits 96 DOCa Priorat. Business Watch Natures Mosaic 20 DO Rueda. Salinas de Fuencaliente. Rewnng Verdejo 32 A of Salt from the Canarias 80

M^V-AUGUST 2012 SPAI.N GCltRME fOUR Text Translation Rodrigo Garcia Fernandez/©ICEX Jenny McDonald/©ICEX

www.foodsfromspain.com

An a la carte menu, superb ingredients, delectable treats and other delicacies in the form of news and feature articles, gastronomic routes, upcoming events, blogs, videos, and more. ICEX {Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade) has launched in March its new Spanish Gastronomy Portal (www.foodsfromspain.com), providing users with full, up-to-date information on Spanish foods, a sort of virtual sampler menu.

FOODS

HOME SPAIN » REGIONS DOING BUSINESS CNCFS S TRAllMllvlG PBOOUCTS S RECIPES

Us been seven years now since the requirements: to provide all the openness of the internet allows us digital version of Spain Gourmetour latest on Spanish foods in a to reach all sorts of users. made its first appearance—seven reliable, thorough way with Each section covers a different type years since the publication, which contemporary eye-catching visuals. of content, with many cross-references. aims to promote Spanish food Creativity and graphics are The homepage includes several sub- products abroad, decided lo trademarks of the new ICEX homes as well as direct links to the showcase itself on the internet. And Gastronomy Portal. The design is latest news, blog.s, digital fora and a with time, the possibilities of the fresh and crisp, with a selection year-long food calendar marking all world wide web have multiplied even of photos, videos and illustrations the gastronomic events in Spain and further, with a revoluiion in online reflecting the wide-ranging flavors the rest of the world, communication resulting in concepts and aromas of Spanish food products liui she backbone of the Gastronomy such as the Web 2.0, based on user and gastronomy. And users are able Portal is the Products & Recipes section. participation and fast, effective to find out all they need from This area provides detailed fact sheets information sharing. the articles, facl sheets on products on the main Spanish food products, Considering how powerful the grown and made in Spain, interviews including all those having a quality seal internet has become as a tool for with well-known chefs, traditional guaranteed by the European Union, communication and promotion, and signature recipes, gastronomic specifically Protected Designation of we at Spain Courmctour decided itineraries covering many of the Origin (PDO), Pi-otected Geographic our web site needed to grow, mature regions of Spain, and suggestions on Indication (PGI) and Traditional and bear juicier, more appealing where products can be bought and Speciality Guaranteed (TSG). fruit. So 20n, the second year of tasted in Spain and abroad. Alongside this basket of products a new decade in the Western full of quality and flavor are calendar, marks the start of a new recipes—traditional ones from all the stage for www.spaingourmetour.cam. A well-fed website regions of Spain, and new ones— After almost three years of careful Although the new portal mainly with tapas and signature dishes preparation, ihis new platform addresses professionals—food devised by some of Spain's top chefs, has been unveiled, sharing with its importers, chefs, retailers, hospitality illustrating the giant strides of avant- printed "sister" both goals and schools, the media, etc.—the garde cuisine in recent years. —

to taste

and cutling-edge culinary lechniques small but comprehensive encyclopedia Ideas, advice.,. used in their restaurants. Users will with collections of articles, the library Where is Spain? How many regions also be able to take note of the dates of Spain Gourmetour's printed edition, are there? These and many other and venues of the most important a who's who of the most important questions are answered in the section gastronomy congresses. people on the Spanish gastronomy Spain & Regions, a user-friendly .source scene, videos, interactives. a shelf full of information about the couniry, .. .and plenty of of books, a gastronomic glossary, etc. with data on economic, social and Behind all this content is a team cnccultural aspects and full information surprises Kcommitted to the task at hand and to on regional gastronomy. Are you planning a gastronomic tour the goals of the Gaslronomy Portal. The Doing Business section is a juicy of Spain? Do you need In addition to the coordiniition and source of data for commercial users. recommendations for places to eat in editorial team in , we have A calendar features all the main food San Sebastian or Seville? Or maybe a network of colleagues and trade fairs where you can contact you live in New York or Melbourne correspondents in different Spanish Spanish producers, with a full list of but want to eat out Spanish-style or cities and in the main Spanish food all legislation on the production and buy ingredients for a tapas meal at expon markets, helping us keep sale of Spanish products, directories home. Shop, Travel & Dine will help users informed about the Spanish food of Spanish companies in the food you plan to perfection, wiih its and gastronomy scene. sector, contact details of all of Spain's culinary routes and information on This is a pioneering, ambitious project trade offices throughout the world restaurants, food stores, museums and with plenty of surprises in store. and statistics on Spain's foreign trade gastronomic festivals in ever)' corner of Follow the trail of our breadcrumbs in food products. Spain. It also includes routes wlh a throughout the culinary portal with Users interested in keeping track of Spanish flavor in the main cities of the just the click of your mouse. jBuen provecho! Spain's best-known chefs will like the world and suggestions for places Cfitfs & Training section. In it they where you can tr)' Spanish dishes and will hnd profiles of more than 100 products in more than 20 countries. Rodngo Gcirct ti Femdndez is a journalist of Spain's star chefs, as well as videos A cornucopia of data on Spain and its and member of the editorial team at explaining some of the traditional gastronomy is available in Foodpedia, a www.spaingourmetour.com. ^ SeA&orteJl v4i4iv olive/ oil

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WAKESpain's day begins when dawn Y breaks over Mahon, capital of the Balearic Island of Menorca (situated in the Mediterranean, just off the mainland's east coast), and ends when the sun sets behind Cape Finisterre

8 M.« AUGUST 2012 SPALN GOURMETOUR \c

WAKEYin Galicia (northwestern Spain). ! Its daily trajectory ennbraces a culinary repertoire whose wealth of flavors, textures and aromas reflects the traditions and culture — ancient and ongoing —of this country of diverse regions.

MAY-AUGUST 2012 SPAIN U0L:R.ME lOL K BREAKFAST

TEXT SARA CUCALA/©ICEX

TRANSLATION HAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX

PHOTOS TOYA LEGIDO/I&ICEX

Spain is generously endowed with fertile accom]Janied by something sweei or customary basic snacUs are being land where {run and •y'cgetables thrive, an savory Yet how many of us could bear revamped, seasonal fruiis attractively extensive coastline and a good deal of to eat the same thing for lunch every presented, and more and more places Wghland terrain, and it is to these day? Not many of us would willingly are putting on a special bmnch menu at attnl.7utes that much of the credit must subject ourselves lo an unwaveringly weekends, at once an inviiaiion to go for the quality of its produce. The repetitive daily diet, Bui breakfast (and overeat and an example of the tenets of evidence is there for the tasting at any only breakfast) positively embraces the Slow Food Movement (Spain time of day, but it seems particularly unifonniiy. providing the exception that Coutmetour No, 82). On days off, one obvious in t-he early morning, when one proves the rule. We find ourselves can now devote time to reading the is only just awake and one's palate still having the same things morning after morning papers while tucking into a unclouded, and therefore so much morning: scalding hot coffee and well-deserv'ed calorie-jiacked breakfast more responsive to the finer points lhan some kind of bun to ]3ui an end to long as a reward lor having completed later in the day. hours of fasting. another working week. Breakfast is, in some regards, the most In present-day Spain, especially in the Imporlani meal of all, taking place as it larger towns and cities, the day starts in What do the Spanish does just after we have emerged from a a rush: we gulp down a coffee while it's prolonged period of sleep and need to still too hot and, time permitting, a slice have for breakfast? break our fast, to assuage a hunger and of toast drizzled with olive oil, or some North or south, east or west, inland or thirsE that are both physical and spiritual. kind of sweet cake, like a lillle sponge by sea.,, what the Spanish liave for Early morning food preparation offers no or madeleine. We then bide our time breakfList varies according to the pan scopt {or camouflage: there are no sauces for a while, about as long as it takes to of the country in which they live. For beneaih which to conceal things that gel LO vvork, before coming fully awake example, farmers and seafarers lead haven't turned out quite right, no cream and realizing that we are hungn- It's l^hysicaliy demanding lives and, for softening die effect of ihe frankly aiound 11:00 by the lime the second therefore, need to pack in many more boring. Breakfast food is generally exempt coffee of the day is dmnk. this time calories at the start of their day lhan from the modem trend for any accompanied by a Utile savor)' snack: a city dwellers do. What ihey actually presentation, and has so far mostly chunk of Spanish omelet, a sandwich have for breakfast will var\' depending avoided lieing reinvented \la mixlo (grilled ham and cheese on place, time of year and occupation. spherificaiion or other cutting-edge sandulch), a few churros [or their Meanwhile, the curreni trend of having techniques... and that's surely because, as fatter relatives, porras) for dunking in a breakfast of bread and (extra virgin) we're slill half asleep, we need to engage the coffee. ohve oil seems to be catching on with reality lo become well and truly Having said that, however, there b a nationwide awake. For breakfast, we eat what comes definite shift of altitude towards One could easily devise an olive oil to hand: a cup of coffee or lea "breakfast cuisine" in the air: the route that crisscrosses Spain, lasting as

10 o o^ o cn

one goes and dctecnng the Mapping the eaten bones and all. They are soaked in characteristics contributed by the olive milk before frying, and this simple varieties grov^Ti in different parts of the morning process gives them the special Mediterranean taste and texture that couniry: .Arbequina, Blanqueta, There are as many equivalents ol this makes them such an e.xcellent snack. Comicabra, Lechin. Hojiblanca, start to the day as there are places in Unsurprisingly for such an important , Morisca and Picual, to Spain. The geography of Spanish fruit and vegetable-producing region, name jusl a few. breakfast could, in broad temrs, be the people of have a sweeter Indeed, many places offer an "oil list" expressed as follows: As the sun nses tooth. The region's famous jams, spread from which the customer can choose over ihe , one can on bread or various t>'pes of buns, are which variety to have with breakfast. choose to start the day reinforced by a an integral part of breakfa.st, preceded Among Spaniards. Arbequina, big cup of milky coffee and an or accompanied by local orange juice, Hojiblanca and, to a lesser degree, ensainuuia. The dough for this coiled which Murcians love as much as their Picual. are the favorite varieties for pastry (one of several liKal specialties) neighbors in do. In "^'alencia. dribbling over hot toast firsi thing in is made vvith flour, water, sugar, eggs, famous for its citrus fauts, anv' breakfast the morning. The luxurious liquid is mother dough, and pork lard. worth the name vvill cenainly include drizzled over some fonn of bread, half a Ensaimadas come in two types: plain orange juice and quite possibly horchata molleie (soft roll) for example, which is and unadorned (except, perhaps, for a dc chufa (earth almond, or tiger nut, freshly toasted. !n cemral-souihern and sprinkling of icing sugar) or filled with milk) andfartons (swcel. elongated, eastern pans of the Iberian Peninsula, cahello de angel (candied pumpkin). spongy bread rolls made vvith Hour, the bread is rubbed first with a cut, raw An alternative is another Balearic milk, sugfir, oil, ycusi and etias'i. tomato and then seasoned vvith a good classic: sohrasada. This raw, cured In the heart of Valencia's city center are sprinkling of //or de sal (Spain sausage is made from specific cuis of two deeply traditional establishments Gourmetour No. 76). Known as pan pork seasoned vvith salt, pimentdn for which loail people head when they lumaca, this is becoming one of ihe (Spanish papiika) and black pepper to need to shrug off the effects of a late most popular breakfast snacks, often create a paste, which is delicious spread night: both are horchaterias (bars that served with a little Iberico or Senano on hot toast. specialize in eanh almond milk), one cured ham. Coffee, bread, tomato, extra Some minutes later, in , the called Horchaieria Fl Siglo and the virgin olive oil, salt and Iberico ham: it day begins with pan tumaca other Horchateria Santa Catalina. For couldn't be less complicated. This (mentioned eadier). in cenain parts of late breakfiisters with a heany appetite. emerging taste for the simpler things— the region, such as along the Costa I he)' offer the opportunity to sample a appreciation of good bread, for Brava, the standard accompaniment of long-established classic combination example—is another recent trend in Iberico cured ham is replaced by consisting of coffee, bread and bianco y Spanish gaslronomy as a whole (see anchovies. An attractive feature of negro (white and black, referring to two Upper Crust, p. 58). Catalan anchovies is that they can be

11 BREAKFAST

12 o o 'po cn

types ol sausage: pale beige butifarra and almost black morciUa). Still following the sun as it rises over Spain, we now enter , whose t)'pical llavors encompass sea, desert and orchard. In Almeria, all three make their coniribuiion to the idiosyncrauc "breakfast sandwich'' that is something of a local specialty, variou-sly known as serigd, cheriga, serida or cherigdn. This initiallv' btilOing word turns out lo be a bowdlerized version of the English surname Sheridan and to date back to the early years of the 20 •' century. The village of Rodalquikr, in Almena (which today lies within the Cabo de Gata Natural Park) was once the siie of one of the biggest gold mines in less predictable by the time it reaches Europe. Such was the imponance of the Basque Country, on the this tiny Almerian enclave that il nonheastem tip of the Iberian boasted a population of national and Peninsula, hi some cafes hereabouts, foreign inhabitants that was enormously one can still enjoy homemade jtmkei, large for die period. Among them was with ihe inimitable delicate flavor Mr Sheridan, who was. for a time, boss imparted by ihe griddle-healed stones of tire mine. A characteristic feature of or iron implements immersed in iho his was that he Uked to eat his breakfast freshly extracted milk from which this standing at the counter in Almeria's delicacy is made. various bars, and thai he always ale the Heading southwest, il becomes clear same thing: a slice of bread topped with that a heady smell of olives in the air is charcuterie. cheese or someihing not limited to Andalusia, but is also a similar. The Englishman's name and feature of Extremadura, where it breakfast preferences live on in the lillle coexists with the essence of the dchesa sandwich-like cherigas (or seridas or (Spain Gtiumictour No. 83), the wooded serigas) thai are still very much a scrubland for which this region is feature of the local morning menu. famous and whose species include In western Almeria, the ambient smells holm , French lavender, cisms, [UV [i.:i^c:~Lvu:d -ly iho .iio[l:a> broom... This is Iberico pig-raising emanating from the olive groves of jaen. territor)', a fount of lop-quality pork Meanwhile, in die more built-up areas and cured hams which, unsurprisingly, there is a whiff in the air of dressed feature locally in the first meal of the olives (Spain CtiurmetDur No. 70) and of day, as they also do in Upper the extra virgin olive oil that is an and Castile. All these regions are largely essential ingredient in any decent rural and for countr)- folk the day starts breakfast in Jaen. early and cold. The traditional shepherds' way of coping vvith this was Spreading up from the south, dawn is to cook up a warming dbh of migas

13 BREAKFAST

(stale bread torn up and soaked in enthusiasts, the day may well be given a coast, which is not only beautiful but water and then fried with streaky k]ck-start with a helping of sopa dc also a privileged source of seafood, fruit bacon/pancetta. chorizo. peppers...), limones (literally "lemon soup"). It is. in and vegetables. In the inland areas of Extremadura is a land of contrasts: fact, a mixture of lemon and orange and A.snirias, cold weather anyone waking up in the north of the juices, vvith slices of both fruits floating breakfasts feature local cheeses such as province, in the Las I lurdes area, will in it and, surpnsingly, is served with ifiicsiico.'i de Uebana (little softish cheeses not only discover a thrilling, chorizo and cured ham. It is considered made primarily with cow's milk) and unexpected landscape, but will also be e.xcellent protection agaiiisi colds and .' famous Cabrales (Spain served a ireai M bir.iklusi in the form of viral illnesses. Gounnetour Nos. 7,3, 74 and 75). eggs excellent local jams made with cherries The Bascjue Country (where, as we laid by local hens, and chorizo sausages from the Jerte Valley Up in the hills, know, day dawns early) is connected to i :ioki'.l on •z.nl owt ,e.i o-.w. ;iiv. just haunt of hunting and shooting Galicia by die breathtaking Cantabrian on ihe border between the two

14 po cn

provinces, at the foot of the Picos de aftertasie of butter obtained from the Cathedra! is a lillle hostal (modest Europa mountains, are the Pas 'ViiUeys, cows grazing in the valley and a zing of boarding house) known as Velio do source of individual sponge cakes star anise, which hel]3s get one's system Cabalo Furado, which serves an known as sobaos pasiegos [Spain going when gradually coming to after a unforgettably hearty breakfast of beef Gounnetow No. 82). These popular night's sleep. tripe cooked with chick peas and boiled favorites are prepared with a beaten With the sun well and tmiy risen aQ langoustines. dough made of flour, eggs, over Spain, the prize for the most lemon rind, star anise and honey, which unusual breakfast goes to the little towm is poured into individual molds for of Tui (Pontevedra province. Galicia) Churros and porras baking, ilien allowed to cool before where, on market days (usually Cfiurros (Spoin GouiTnetour No. 82) packing for sale. After eating a sobao Thursdays, in the Paseo da Corredoira), consist of the simplest ingredients pasiego, one is left with a lingering in the center of tovvn right next to the —flour, water and salt—cleverly

My favorite breakfast haunts

Afmeria. La Ola. in the little town of La Madrid. Chocotateria San GInfe [Pasadizo reputation for being the creme de la Isleta del Moro. This is a simple seafarers' Gines) is one of Madrid's legendary Spanish aeme in the breakfast restaurant with an outside terrace at wtiose establishments. It would be worth having department. It takes the form of an opulent plastic tEibles one can have breakfast breakfast here for the atmosphere alone, buffet using strictly seasonal market looking out at tfie sea. Local specialties but be sure to pay homage to the Spanish produce, and there Is always a wide range such as cherlg^s (savory morals tradition of eaUng churros dipped in of juices, fmit, homemade flavored butters sandwicfied In bread), and tomato-mbbed chocolate while you're at it. (leek and bacon, raspberry...), savory bread dressed with olive oil predominate. dishes (always including sobrasada, a raw Brunch at Cafe Oliver (C/ Almirante. 12) is cured sausage paste), and sweet ones, an enduring favorite of mine, it serves a with ensaimadas (a coiled pastry) being wide choice of breakfasts in very attractive Barcelona. El Pinotxo In La Boqueria given pride of place. Market (La Rambla, 91) is a not-to-be- premises right in the heart of Madrid. The missed classic. My advice is to explore the Parisian decor is aimed at a young market first and then stop here, where they clientele, and the menu is notable for its Valencia. El Siglo {P\aza Santa Catalina, prepare delicious savory snacks with breakfasl-lime salads and the famous eggs 11). Founded in 1836, this cafe still retains ingredients obtained from the surrounding benedict. the bohemian. Intellectual atmosphere of stalls. the coffee houses of that period. Gilded mirrors, decoratlvely tiled floors, lamps Majorca. The Resldencia Hotel in suspended at various heights from the Cadiz. Bar Las Nieves (Plaza Mendlzabal). picturesque Deia [Calle de los Son Canals) immensely high ceilings: this is a marvelous Mollete con aceite de oliva y jamon (soft is reputed to do the best breakfast in place to withdraw from the outside world bread roll with olive oil and cured ham) as Spain, and in certain respects this is true: it and relish the authenticity of this Vatencian served in this unpretentious Cadiz bar gives is a sort of banquet staged in a stunningly experience, accentuated by the availability morning a whole new look: this is the way beautiful natural setting, of horchata (earth almond milk) and fartons the locals start their day. Excellent bread. Restaurante Senzone, the in-house (elongated spongy textured sweet bread Breakfast on the little terrace gets the day restaurant of the Hotel Hospes Maricel in rolls). off to a charming start. Cas Catala (Ctra. de Andratx, 11), has a

15 BREAKFAST

transformed into a Spanish classic by deh frying. Wherever you are in Spain, you will have the option of starting the day with a large cup of hot chocolate served with half a do.-cn of these ihiic

16 o O po cn

passage of time has wrought irrevocable changes. Today, Spam is open to the cultures of the vvider world. Its principal provinces have become destinations for foreign settlers who bring their inbuilt culture vvith them, with the result that the Spanish larder has been enlarged by new- aromas, flavors and textures. Nowadays, in theory, one could stan the day vvith the foreign breakfast of one's choice without having to move from Madrid. Each of Madrid's constituent hurrios. or neighborhoods, accommodates people from other parts of the world. In Usera, for example, you would have no problem finding breakfa.st as eaten in south China. Lavapies is the place to go for the Moroccan and Indian equivalents, Barno de Salamanca and Chamberi lean more towards the British style, and Las Lctras even offers Scandinavian-style breakfast. Madrid's population represents a rich mix: fried in hot oil until crisp and then The fashion nowhere else in the whole of Spain can dipped in honey); rosquillas (dough match It for the plurality, varieiy and made with Hour. eggs, olive oil and for brunch fusion exemplified by its breakfasts. milk and shaped into ringsbefor e Though there are still some cafes in Our readiness lo welcome other frying and sprinkling with sugar)... all Spain that retain echoes of the cultures perhaps explains why we were of these would be considered suitable atmosphere, charm and social function so ready to adopt the fashion for breakfast fare. they enjoyed in their heyday the brunch and why it has become the

17 BREAKFAST

sized morsels for guests to choose from. The concept spread from hotels to restaurants: one pioneer was the l lispano. which has f>een providing buffet-style brunch at weekends for many years now. Today, no description of Spain's breakfast habits would be .1/ complete without a mention of brunch. And similarly, no Spanish brunch can be considered complcie unless it includes a particular dish— Spain's version of eggs benedict (hucvos bcnedictine), consisting of a slice of sweet bread topix-d with smoked pork belly or bacon and poached eggs), and a particular dnnk—the Bloody Mar)' A good Spanish brunch will also feature a table devoted to differeni lypes of bread, several types of butter, assorted jams, virgin olive oil, and natural Iruit juices. In Spain. Sunday mornings could be said to start in earnest at around 11:30. which is vvhen bninch becomes available. The Hotel Palace and the Intercontinental Hotel, both in Madrid, are excellent Sunday brunch destinations where one can eat and dnnk at a leisurely pace to the accompaniment of live chamber music and operatic highlights. There are times vvhen the expression "Good morning" takes on a whole new dimension! unchallenged favorite model for weekend breakfast. No one seems to know how the Author and journalist Sara Cucala is a concept of brunch came into being: gastronomic coordinator at TVE, founder some believe it to have been a British of the gastronomic culturtil tenter Fspatia invention, while others attribute it to A Punlo. and author of two books, New York, more specifically Harlem. Desa)Tinar en Madrid. Del chuno al Wherever it originated, the fact is that bmnch (2008. RBA) and has templos de these days you can choose to start your la uipa (2009. RBA). day with brunch almost anywhere in the world. Here in Spain, one of the Visit our website. first places to adopt brunch was www. foodsf romspa i n. com. Madrid's Ritz Hotel, whose huge tables for detailed infomiation aboul were laden with sweet and savor)' bite- Spanish food and wine.

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K ^'

^1 •

19 Mosaic

In Priorat you have to be patient. I drive along the narrow, winding roads, in low gear, enjoying the view: pines, holm oaks, the occasional olive tree and those impossible . And it is the same for the wine that is born here —it cannot be hurried. Open it, let it breathe and wait for it to talk to you. First in whispers, then gradually getting louder as its aromatic complexity tells you a thousand stories—about its life, its slow production process, the aging in the bottle that rounds up all its virtues. Finally, in the glass, it needs time to express itself fully. DOCa PRIORAT

TEXT ALMUDENA MARTiN RUEDA/©ICEX

TRANSLATION JENNY MCD0NALD/©1CEX

PHOTOS MATIAS COSTA/©ICEX JUAN MANUEL SANZ/©ICEX

The DOCa Priorat is located between the white Nelin. "And," he assures the sea and the mountains, in eastern me, "There are over 900 flower Spain in the province of , in species." Catalonia. The is His wines reRect the character of their just 30 km (18.6 mi) away, but the surroundings, including marked mountains that frame Priorat keep out mineral flavors which stem from the the sea's influence, which only just slate soils that are the key squeezes in through the area of characteristic of DOCa Priorat. The and some of the southern aroma of Clos Mogador 2009, made parts, it is this single opening ihai lets from local Garnacha and Carinena in most of the chmatic influences, and completed wiih Cabernet allowing the damp sea air to niLx with Sauvignon and , is very flowery the Valley winds. The landscape and transports me to the nearby is mostly low mountains, with pines, Mediterranean woodland, with its holm oaks, olive, hazelnut and thyme and ro.scmar)'. As it opens up, almond trees and, of course. gr.-\]x it releases notes of berries and then vines. Rock rose, ihynie, rosemary spices. Nelin, a white made mostly and many other small aromatic plants from Garnacha Blanca and , complete this truly Mediterranean is ec[ually surprising. My first environment. And all this life grows impression takes me back to the out of a soil that is sometimes black, almond blossom I saw in the middle bluish or even purplish, from the of the that it comes from. slate, known in Catalan as licordla, This passion for vineyards and their the key distinguishing trait of the environment is explained with DOCa Priorat. vivacity by Sara Perez, daughter of one of the "reinventors" of Priorat Not just rock (Josep Lluis Perez, DOCa Priorat in a nutshell, page 26) and currently in "The is not just the soil. Il's not charge of Mas Martinet. "Prioral all up to the licorelia," says Rene comes from here," she says, pointing Barbier, owner of one of the mythical with vigor to her heart. Sara forms in the DOCa Priorat. When part of the second generation of he bought Clos Mogador in 1978, ihe producers in Prioral vvho are even 22 ha (54 acres) were already a farm. more convinced than their His philosophy is total respect for predecessors about the v alue of the biodiversity It is not unusual to find terroir and about the native varieties, olive trees, holm oaks and the odd Garnacha Tinta and Carificna. In her almond tree in the middle of the three wines. Sara aims to show the vineyards, which he has planted production methods used in the three alongside the original vines. This land periods of Priorat's wine history: pre- is home lo small wildlife and even phylloxera, up until the arrival of the some animals that are not so small, as much-feared plague in 1893, in Els we can .see from the tracks of wild Escurgons; the 20"" century after boars in the vineyard that produces

22 OO cn

23 DOCa PRIORAT

phylloxera in Cami Pesseioles; and modernity in Clos Martinet. Els Escurgons comes from a high- altitude Garnacha vineyard on an estate that she recovered after finding and contacting its former owners by searching through family trees in the nearby villages. After years watching

the behavior of vineyards and wines, DOCa Priorat she became convinced about how important il is to maintain a natural La Bisbal, Gomudella balance in the field. She started to de Falsat de Mont3an1 adopt organic principles in 2000. By * ihc third year, she fell diat life was • Escalade! Siurana Reservoir • Pobcleda returning lo ihe vineyards, with the La vmu buzz of insects, the wild fiowers, etc. • AJta LaVilella "And that vvas when I decided that Balxa. • Tomjja del Priorat was how I wanted lo work, that I GrataJops ^ Porms wasn't going to worry if I had to forego a harvest. An ecosystem Bellmunl _ Mflsos de manages itself. You don't need El Molar* del Prioral FalsBt

chemicals because the soil and the • Falset .1^^

environment find their own balance " Siurans River El Ma$n}ig u-aa The Els Escurcons wine offers notes of red currant, and in the mouth it ( / stirs up images of the land it comes Mdra • Mfira ta Nova Gt^amels from—herbs, menthol, pine and a d'Ebre* ResBT/oir

24 OO cn

Porrera, based on Cariiiena from very old vines grown locally. This is a serious, elegant wine with a long finish and full of minerals, reminiscent of charcoal and chalk. He lells me, "Caririena is the best catalyst iremcndous freshness from its local varieties. But in fact the for the minerals in the soil." tartness and mineral 11 a vors. percentage of imported grapes has Alongside these classics, Adria and Cam! Pesseroles is the wine thai Sara been reduced in Clos Martinet to give Marc have launched a personal describes as "post-phylloxera", and is greater presence to the local ones. project, Les Cousins, a more light- based on Carifiena grapes. From her Clos Martitiet 2008 affords ripe fmit heaned wine with a fresher image. experience, this varieiy has almost no on the nose but is very spicy, with .'\dria cannot help smiling when he ch a rac I eristics of its own. "If clear accents of clove and hints of refers to his childhood, the the soil is good, it absorbs it. menthol. It too retlecis the mineral inspiration behind these wines. In Cadiiena is the best detector of good soil and the pleasant coldness tj'pical ihem, he works with the two leading soils, whereas Garnacha can deceive of slate. local varieties, recognizing the you with its varietal features." The A love of Qirifiena was also inherited minerals that are the expression of wine comes mostly from grapies by her brother, Adria Perez, now in Priorat but searching for more fruii growm on staley soil and the minerals charge of the Family project at Cims and a simpler, rounder result. make their presence felt over the de I'orrera. Adria, with the support of fruit, giving it a freshness and a his cousin Marc (both of ihem firm Stay-at-home lasting sensation in the mouth. Clos advocates of the local varieiie,s) offers Martinet reflects the third Priorai two different lines in his vvinery. On adventurers period, when her father came here the one hand, he is conitnuing the In spite of hard times in ihe 20'^ and planted varieties such as project set up by his father and sister century (DOCa Prioral in a nutshell, Cabernet Sawignon and Syrah with in the i990s by maintaining not only page 26), there were some local die idea of combining them with the Solanes but also ilie classic Cims de growers and winemakers that decided

25 Cristian l^rancis, Trio Infernal to Slick it out and continue working century, endured the collapse at the in Porrera. In 1997, they started to the land they had inherited. One start of the 20 ", and had no use oak barrels to age their wine that example is the Sangeni's i Vaque alternative but to produce bulk wines came from 80-year-old vines growing , the coming together of iwo until, in 1995, they decided to start on the slopes around this traditional families with a history of over 300 bottling their own wines. That initial wine making town. years making wine. They enjoyed the experiment, an uiiaged wine, was the With the 2000 , they received good years at the end of the 19''" first time a wine was acitiallv bottled the backing they needed to move forward. English wine writer John l^adford described their Clos Monlleo as the best in his book DOCa Priorat in a nutshell The New Spain. Great advocates of Gamacha Tinta and Cirinena, Pere Sangenis and his daughter Maria logether with Conxiia Vaque and her is based on profound respect for the 1194: Carthusian monks arrive from )'0unger daughter manage the winery Provence (), establishing the landscape and the local people, and the Priorato de Scala Dei and bringing hope that they will be able to restore a and acknowledge that you need to wait culture with ttiem. This was territory in which quality wines can be with these wines. "It's very important to become the foundation for the district's made. Tliis principle became the tn givp ihpm lime in the boule so thai economic life for centuries. backbone of the DOCa Priorat. In fact, the Designation enforces a rule covering the tannins become more finished and 1865: Phylloxera attacks in France lead to the planting of vineyards to ensure the all the aromas are released." Today the a boom in the Priorat wine trade. sun'oundings are taken into account. 2004 and 2005 are on the 1893: Phylloxera arrives in Priorat. putting Today the DOCa Priorat fias 94 vvineries an end to its prosperity. Over the following market, but I am especially curious and 1.928 ha (4,763 acres) of vineyard decades, the district becomes about 2000. And I'm in luck because (of which only 81 grow white varieties). In impoverished and depopulated. 2011 about 5,500 tons of grapes were they have been lasiini; nne with an 1950: Trie DO Priorato is established. harvested. The latest project, named Vi importer and there's a bottle open, A Late 19B0s. The "Priorat magnificos" de Vila, aims to differentiate between the rich aroma of plain chocolate leads on products of each of the villages that arrive: Rene Barbier Carles Pastrana (Clos to a subtle succession of very npe fniit, de rObac), Josep Lluis Perez, Alvaro belong to the Designation. Palacios (L'Ermita) and Daphne Glorian virww.doqpriorat.org: Regulatory menthol, toast. In the mouth it is very (Clos Erasmus). They make their first wine, Council, DOCa Priorat (Catalan, English, elegant, fine, fresh, ver)' complex, together, in 1992. Their shared philosophy French, Spanish) again with notes of toast, black pepper

26 and perhaps dewy autumn leaves, vvith makes Mas Sinen Costers, a very So how did these winemakers. having delicate minerals reminiscent of characteristic Pnorat in which the been held back throughout the 20''' graphite. Undoubtedly a great wine. mineral notes stand out over the ripe century, manage to reach a position in The story is similar with Salvador fruit and spices, creating that which they could invest in their own Burgos, vvho was born in . impression of coldness that stems small projects? The answer lies in He stayed on in the countr)' and, with from the licorella. As we taste the investments made in the late 1980s. the Priorat revival, was able to wines, Leonard Cohen sings in the The origin and philosophy of the Vail gradually build up a position that background. The seriousness and Llach winer)', created by Catalonian allowed him, in the early 1990s. to gentle complexity of Cohen creates songwriter Llufs Llach, helps explain purchase his own estate, Mas Sinen. exactly the right atmosphere for this how the recovery happened. In 1985, Salvador is another great fan of wine. Lluis Llach inherited farmland from organic principles in farming (and his mother, who was from Porrera. ecological principles in his life). The Pedro Rovira and his dau{;liler Mana, enologist, This village was where he had spent first thing we did was to taste the of Viiicultors Mas d'cn Gil carefree summer holidays as a child water from the spring that supplies The land had been all but abandoned the winery. "Tasting this water is the but, after floods in 1994, he best way of understanding what we converted it into vineyards. At the mean by minerals in wine." The same time, he decided to collaborate original estate grew almond trees, but with local growers in the recover)' of he vvas determined to focus on vines the oldest hillside vineyards knowm as so he planted Garnacha and Carinena costers, a task that was already being as well as some , fl carried out by Josep Lluis Perez with Syrah and . Erom these lii 1 the Porrera cooperative farmers. They vineyards, now 15 to 20 years old, he both felt that the local growers had to produces Mas Sincn Negre, a bright reap the benefits of the old Carinena with excellent structure and and Garnacha vineyards, so they herbal aromas, reminiscent of the started to pay for the grapes at prices thyme that grows freely on the estate. that previously would have been Erom the plots he inherited from his unthinkable. father, which are now 60 years old, he I'll These characteristic costers are vase-

27 DOCa PRIORAT

Adna Pirez of Cims de Porrera, and Sara Pircz of Mas .Vlaninel

shaped vineyards planted on hillsides, some of which have as much as a 70% slope. They are described as "heroic vine-growing" by Salustii Alvarez, who is now the manager at Vail Llach. after having worked with it since 2002. and President of the involved in the projeci. "This, loo, notes of black licorice. Its marked DOCa Pnorai Regulatory Council helps make it an honest project," says acidity, in combination with the cold until late 2011. He has an almost Salustia. Mas de la Rosa is one of sensation that comes from the slate endless supply of informaiion about those impressive vineyards. The and obvious tannins, makes this a the area. Originally from Porrera, he plants are mostly very old Carinena. very fresh but powerful wine with a remembers how, in the 1960s and growing on hard, slatey soil on sleep slightly bitter aftertaste. At the start of 70s. the village square vvas full of slopes, on which I would have the interview, Salustia had promised people at 7 am as they gathered to thought it vvas impossible to work. that I would find Priorat "seductive", travel to vvork outside the area. Then Mechanization is out of the question. and this wine could certainly win Priorat look off at the end of the Everything has to be done by hand in over any lover of wines with 1980s, vvhen a number of order to pick just half a kilo (1.1 lb) personality "worldwise" producers started lo per plant "To make one bottle of Vail produce high-quality wines. And. Llach. we need seven plants," he Whites make their especially important for him. "Their explains, giving a clear idea of the projects were honest, with wines from vineyard's yield. The 2006 vintage of appearance here and owned by them, that is, Vail Llach is a very personal, complex Slightly to the north of Porrera, at the wines with identity. This meant that wine. On the nose it is very mineral, foothills of the Montsani mountain productions were small because of the with hints of graphite and charcoal, range, is Conreria de Scala Dei. region's rugged landscape and the age and behind them comes ripe fruit, founded in 1997. Jordi Huguet of its vineyards." In the company of prunes. This is a wine that opens up explained that they arc determined Salustia I visited a hillside vineyard as it breathes. In the mouth, it is not only to sell wine, bul also to sell that is now owned 50% by the winer)- rounded, vvith a touch of spice, and it Prioral by encouraging people lo visit and 50% by the grower, vvho was thus gradually releases some fantasUc the area, so they arc planning on

28 years old, as well as Garnacha Blanca. The Coma Alta wine expresses ripe fruit and .spice and is very flavorsome, fresh and long in the mouih. In reds, they are working on a blend of varieties including Garnacha Negra. Garnacha Peluda, Carifiena and setting up a small hotel next to the the Mas d'en Gil estate tn BeUmunt de Cabernet Sauvignon (even in some vvinery Today, they are producing Priorat. The Rovira-Carbonell family cases S)Tah and Merlot). Clos Fonta. 25% of the DO's whites, mostly from comes from the Penedes winemaking the red they make from the oldest Gamacha Blanca. a variety which, as I region close to Barcelona. "In Priorat, plots, is a wine with mature, was able lo see for myself, clearly has we wanted an estate that had both flavorsome tannins that is very a great aromatic capacity and plenty history and represented the local reminiscent of ripe black fruil and of body with just the right amount of biodiversity.'" And they found it six figs and offers a sweet chocolate acidity. In reds, lugiter Seleccibn years ago at Mas d'en Gil, which has aroma complemented unexpectedly Villas Viejas, their top-range wine been growing vines for over 300 by touches of menthol. made from 80-year-old vines, is very years, and where vines cover 30% of intense on the nose, where toast and the land. There are also areas of wood take precedence over the fruity woodland, as well as almond, Definite identity notes which appear later in the hazelnut and ancient olive trees in At the end of the 1990s, another mouth. production. Because of ils location, person to set up operations in the The southern part of Priorat looks close to the sea and on a plain, it is southern part of Priorat was Miguel easier to work, vvith gentler slopes one of the few spots that receives the Perez, a doctor and researcher in the and some small low-lying areas. But Mediterranean breezes, which bring world of wine, who explains "1 came this is only the hr.st impression of an coolness and ventilation to the because the land was not easy, which outsider, and a wrong one. The slate vineyards. One of this winery's besi- was precisely what 1 hked. When rock is jusl 20 cm (7.8 in) down and knowm wines is a white, unusual for things are lough, great progress is is "the hardest and oldest of the Priorat, from a vineyard soil that possible." The local vine-growers, in district's licorella." These are the combines slate and sand with this case in , words of Maria Rovira, manager of pebbles, and vines over 60 helped him until he was able to make

29 DOCa PRIORAT

"Hie Sangenis i Vaque family

the vines on his estate productive. advice in 2002. Cristian Frances, vvho sharpness, will be used to make an Today, it is enologist Toni Coca who was born in Torroja and who is exclusive mono varietal wine, mainly helps him make his fantastic Clos rL':>;?i'i:^iblt_ 1,11 -tic d.i) ui-LiLr, for restaurant use. Galena from Garnacha and Caririena running of things, drove me up to the .Another of the small, loreign-ovvned with addirional SjTah and Cabernet, vineyards in his 4x4, the only way of wineries in Torroja is Terroir al Limit. Alongside the richness of the gelling around here, and he does it It was set up in 2003 by Dominik Garnacha is the local disiinguishing with astonishing sang-froid. liuber. from Gennany, who formed a mark of minerals plus some pleasant Meanwhile, 1 hardly dare look out partnership with a South African and touches of menthol in the mouth. A over the steep drop thai our narrow a Catalonian. He is a great proponent simpler but still generous wine, track borders. From these plots, in of ecological balance, probably as a Eormiga, has recently been launched, which there ts a combination of result ol his prior experience at Mas targeting younger buv-ers and offering different orieniadons. they obtain the Martinet and Cims de Porrera, l ie slightly greater warmth on the palate. Gariiacha, Carinena and Syrah that works biodymamically, trusting nature But in Prioral, you inevitably end up make up iheir wines. Together with and the countryside, and again ai the sloping vineyards, of Pep Aguilar and Patri Morillo fermentation of his musts is always which there are many in the Torroja (Spanish collaborators on this started vvith narive yeasts. Clearly he area. Here I visited two smalt wineries projeci), we tasted several samples of neither needs nor wants anything set up by foreign in ve slots who came aged wines which bring together all from outside his owm terroir. His in the early 21'" century. Trio Infernal the characteristics of this district. wines are a pure refleciion of their was a gamble by three While the Carinena is fresher and environment. We tasted directly from producers from the Rhone area who openly reminiscent of thyme and the olds vats in which the wine is were keen lo share a projeci in Spain. scmb, the Gamaclia is much richer, made. The Garnacha is glorious, with It was Rene Barbier who pointed with greater fmitiiiess. The Syrali, a warm aroma o! strawberry jam, ihem to Priorat, and they took his with floral touches and more followed by a veiy fresh palate, with

30 acidity and flowery touches. And the on small terraces and following Domini de la Cartoi.xa) is basically Carifiena is very mineral and spicy organic principles, is not yet searching for elegance and very mature with ihe typical coldness of this producing lop-quality grapes. The lannins. The result can be tasted in variety when growm on the Priorat two wines they have on the market. Lomon 2011 (tasted from the barrel), slate. Ferrer Bobei Vinyes Velles and with its outstanding fruiliness and These wineries with a more Seleccion Especial, are based on these richness. traditional structure contrast with the old Carinena stocks, although the So, altogether, the DOCa Priorat is a next two on my tour. Both Trossos del former also contains 30% Garnacha. joy for the senses. The perseverance of Priorai in the south and Ferrer Bobei Though oak is clearly present, they the local producers (both winemakers in Porrera have invested more in are characterized by acidity, which and vine-growers) has enabled them to visual aspects, with more modern makes them very fresh wines. The preserve their ancient winemaking wineries dial aim to attract attention. former reveals plenty of red fruit on culture, their varieties and their At Ferrer Bo bet, set up by Sergi the nose, and Seleccion receives its Ferrer-Salat and Ratil Bobet (the latter freshness more from its mineral landscapes, and this results in very is technical manager at Bodegas conteni than from its tartness, which personal wines. Tasting them Torres), the tasting room is IS better integrated in the wine. transports us to their place of origin impressive, with a huge window This simpler hne has also been even if we have never been there. Bul, overlooking the surrounding peaks. adopted at Trossos del Priorai, which as most of these winemakers insisted, Having started operation in 2002. for follows the same strategy as Ferrer and as 1 saw for myself, "Priorat is a the time being they are using Bobet of buying grapes while waiting place that deserves to be visited." Carinena and Garnacha grapes from for their own vineyards, planted in vines 30- to 100-years-old and 2004, 10 grow. Their consultant .Ahnudena Martin Rueda is an editorial bought from small local growers enologisi Toni Coca (who also co-coordinator of Spain Gourmetour because their own vineyard, planted collaborates vvith Mas Sinen and

31

Reviving VERDEJO Ask any wine-lover about the Verdejo whites and they will talk about a fresh, light wine with fragrant, sometimes surprising aromas. But today the most ambitious winemakers of the Rueda Designation of Origin, in the northern half of the Castilian plain along the banks of the Duero River, are working on more concentrated wines that bear witness to their terroir. And some of their creations

have already joined the ranks of Spain's best whites. MAY-AUGLIST 2012 SPAIN OOURMETOUR 33 VERDEJO

TEXT AMAYA CERVERA/eiCEX

TRANSLATION JENNY MCDONALD/©ICEX

PHOTOS JUAN MANUEL SANZ/©ICEX

Didier Belondrade from France fact, it is sandwiched between two rebirth began in the 1960s and it tasted his hrst Verdejo wine back in famous regions for red wines: DO reached its prime in the first decade 1993. "1 found it an elegant, Ribcra del Duero and DO Toro of the 21" century. interesting wine, with finesse. I (Spain Gourmetour No. 84). And il Eulogio Calleja. cnologist at liked that slight touch of bitterness shares vvith them the rugged Bodegas Naia, one of the DO's in the mouth without any Castilian landscape characterized leading hrms and exporters, talks sweetness." A few monihs later he by harsh winters, with frost always aboul a "golden triangle" extending traveled to the region it came from on the prowl, and beneficial from Tordesillas on the Duero and discovered the stony soils in differences between day and towards Rueda and the towms of the DO Rueda. "ll reminded me of nighiiime temperatures during the Serrada and La Seca, all of them in the Rhone," he admits. "And it was period when the grapes are the . This is a relatively cheap area because back ripening, .'\lthough since 2008 the an area of characteristically stony then no-one vvas talking about DO has officially covered red and and sandy ground, vvith shallow Spanish whiles." Today. Belondrade rose wines, what makes it stand out soils on lop of a layer of compact, is one of the most widely-respcctcd from its neighbors and other water-retaining clay, providing the wineries in the DO and produces winemaking regions in the same terroir that is home to some of the 80.000 bottles of a fermented, cask- pan of Spain (such as DO Cigalcs greatest Verdejo wines from the DO aged that is deep, has a and Tierra del Vino de Zamora) is Rueda. persistent elegance and ages well in its unmistakable characierisiic as a La Seca, for example, grows more the bottle. About 30% is exported. producer of whites. than 30% of the Verdejo vineyards No-one else in Rueda achieves such The very suitable climate, and is one of the main locations of volumes in the lop-quality league. appropriate soils and a varieiy that old Slocks, with over 500 ha (1,235 The DO Rueda vvas created in 1980 is well-adapted to the land make acres) still planted in vase shape. and vvas the hrst Designaiion of this area an excellent source of great One of the most famous vineyards Origin in Castile-Leon. Its vineyards while wines. The Verdejo variety in the area is Martinsancho, dating span the alluvial terraces formed by has been grown here for centuries, from before the phyllo.xera invasion, the Ducro and its tributaries where but it was overtaken by easier-to- which served as the source for three provinces come together: grow, more productive varieiies recovering Verdejo. Its owmer. Angel Valladolid. Segovia and Avila. In such as and Viura. Its Rodriguez Vidal, is clear about the

34 cn

35 VERDEJO

Prui Camino Vemosa. Belondradc

priorities: "What matters most is the La Mancha, in ihe south of the terroir and the amount of grapes." Castilian plain), launched Blanco Back in ihe 1970s, he used cuttings Nieva Pie Franco, ihe DO's first from the old vineyard to plant a Verdejo, which gave voice Ln the new Martinsancho, and he now boule to these vines growing from transfers its grapes to hot ties their own roots. bearing this name on their labels. Many of the grapes from old This is a young white, mostly sold vineyards, which often end up outside Spain, that is made like diluted in fairly large-scale mosl Verdejo wines from this area productions, have been rescued in today (cold , low- recent years to stand on their own temperature fermentaiion and some in white wines with a marked lime on the lees in stainless steel). It personality. The great cooperative is a pretty representative Verdejo, of La Seca, Agrfcola Castellana, has with aromas of fennel and v^-hiie created Cuatro Rayas Vinedos fruit; it is balanced and fresh, and Cenienarios from grapes grown on has sufficient volume and that the oldest of its Segovian vineyards. characterisric touch of bitteniess. This is an unaged white wnne that is worked on its lees in stainless Pre-phylloxera steel for several months. It offers fine notes of aniseed and fennel on vines still in use the nose and is lively and smooth Another historical spot for Verdejo in the mouth. that is especially relevant lies away Much more ambitious and focusing from the river, to the southeast of almost exclusively on pre- the Designaiion, within the phylloxera vineyards growing . This area, ungrafied Verdejo vines is Ossian which includes, among others, the Vides y Vinos, also located in Nieva town of Nieva, is ai a higher and under the guidance of local altitude (above 800 m / 2,624 ft) vine-grower Ismael Gozalo, together and is characterized by very sandy with Javier Zaccagnini, former soil, which helped il escape the manager of the DO Ribera del attack by phylloxera (here between Duero and partner of Mariano 1909 and 1922). In facl, one of the Garcia (Spciin Gourmetour No. 75) in jewels of the DO are the almost 200 the outstanding Aalio winery in the ha (494 acres) of ungrafied Verdejo DO . Their vines, some of them pre-phylloxera e.xcellent whites take the character and some planted later, this of the local lerroir to the extreme, planting method having been achieving plenty of volume in the common practice up to the 1940s. mouih and a marked mineral fiavor, In the 1990s, Vinedos de Nieva, sometimes with saline touches. In today under the control of the their most spectacular products, Martiie group from Toledo (Castile- Ossian and the very small-scale

36 cn

A church in Rucda

Capitel, in which grapes from two of the Designation, around slatey vineyards are used, they work Tordesillas and Matapozuelos with large-format wood and always (Valladolid), in Segovia, and in vvith native yeasts. Both are very some pre-phylloxera sandy lands in different in style to wines from the I Madrigal de las Alias Torres (Avila), rest of the region, especially birthplace of Isabel the Catholic considering that, at the request of Monarch (Queen of Castile, 1451- their authors, they are sold vvith the 1504) and the main growing area back label of de for Verdejo in the early 16''' centurv-. Castilla y Le6n. Bodegas y Vinedos Shay a, a more Beyond technology recent creation, also uses old vines, Most of today's Rueda wines follow in this case from the nearby lowm of a similar paitern of light, aromatic Aldeanueva del Codonal (the name wines at very affordable prices comes from codon. a local term for produced with refrigeration and pebble). The winery belongs to the technology. They start out as very Gil family's group from the DO clear must and ferment at a very Jumilla (Murcia, southeast Spain) low temperature prior to and makes two whites, Shaya and clarification. According to Cesar Shaya Habis, the latter with wood. Munoz, one of ihe best-knovvm Its philosophy follows this same experts on the Castiie-Leon reds, principle of carefully-contained "Verdejo is a very malleable variety aromas and super smoothness in that can be used in more ways than the mouth, which seems to be you might expect and takes very the distinguishing features of well to the wood." In his work at wines from this remote corner of Montebaco, one of the many labels the DO Rueda. within the DO Ribera del Duero, But these are not the only producers which has now expanded its range to see Verdejo from this point of of reds to include a Rueda, he view. Eulogio Calleja focuses on the favors more mature grapes and structure offered by this variety, as if leaves them longer on the lees. As it were "a red without the part of his personal project, color", and considers it more Seleccion Cesar Mutioz, he is characteristic in the mouth than on making Alter Enos with grapes from the nose. So, in his vineyards, he a 75-year-old vineyard beyond the searches for the origin of the limits of the DO Rueda. In this case, "Segovian clone", which he believes the emphasis is on the barrel to is the key to this variety's profile. achieve structure and volume in the His spectacular Naiades, of which mouth, and the label is sold as a 10,000 to 25,000 boltles are made Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon. depending on ihe vintage, comes The best Ruedas are undoubtedly from grapes grown on very old, highlighting concentration. So, vase-shaped vines in differeni parts although mosl of the leading

37 VERDEJO

Hcicnidraclc vincvard

Verdejo, wineries are working vvith both traditional vase-shaped and a successful grape espaliered vineyards (and insist thai variety that is both can produce quality grapes), taking off there is a group of enthusiasts of vase-shaped cultivation. According Over the last few years, the DO Rueda has seemed lo be immune to the crisis. The to Luis Hurtado de Amezaga, outstanding success of Its fragrant, very technical manager at Vinos de los affordable Verdejo whites has led to Herederos del Martpies de Riscal, unprecedented growth in this area. While, at "The creeping nature of Verdejo ttie start of the decade, ttie varieiy was grown on about 3,000 ha (7,413 acres), in 2011 it means that the bunches are was hiarvested from 10,000 ha (24,710 acres). protected from sunlight, the plant So rt is no surprise that practically all the large retains moisture better and the must Spanish wine groups have decided to include is more aromatic and hokls its a Rueda in their product ranges. It is the most popular white wine for Spanish consumers, acidity well. The bunches may be with only DOCa . DO Ribera del Duero practically on the ground, but the and DO Valdepefias exceeding it in popularity. tough skin prevents the grapes from Bul Verdejo is also crossing frontiers. The rolling." Eulogio Calleja adds, neighboring regions in which it was grown m "Most of the old vase-shaped vines small amounts are now showing interest in it and launching Verdejo wines on the market — are planted on very suitable, dry- cases in point are DO Tierra de Leon and farmed land so they are used to not Tierra del Vino de Zamora. The variety has n having much water, and their also t>een authorized in the Cigales. Ambes tendency to delay the cycle means and Toro DOs. and of course also under the that less acidity is lost, making the broader scope of Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon. With the 2011 vintage, the DO resulting wines better-balanced and Cigales. which is especially well-known for ils more structured." Wiih espaliered roses and recently also for its reds, has now vines, on the other hand, many authorized whiles and tias started out with a growers prefer to harvest by hand Verdejo wine, although to date it has only 40 ha (98.8 acres) registered under Ihis varieiy. so that selection is more rigorous at Verdep is also grown in Ifie southern part of the actual plant. the Castilian plain, in Ihe DO La Mancha, Ihe Something they all agree on is that largest wine-growing region on the planet where Ihe varieiy was authorized in Ihe eariy vineyard yield is a key determinant 2000s. and in tX) Valdepenas, DO Almansa for quality The limit allowed for and DO Marx;huela. In this huge area there Verdejo by the Regulatory Council are already over 3.200 ha (7.907 acres) under is 8,000 kilos per ha (2.47 acres) in Verdeio, 1,700 (4.200) of them in the IX) La f^/lancha alone. vase-shaped plantations and 10,000 Even Ihe [X)Ca Rioja included Verdejo in Ihe for espaliers. In ihe opinion of Jesiis list of new white varieties authorized for Yuste, a researcher at the planting wilhm its produciion area in 2007. Agricultural Technology Institute of Clearty this white grape is setting trends. But Castile-Leon who led the work on will these areas find the nghl comtiination of climate, soils and lerroir ihal nature provides clonal selection in Verdejo and has in Ihe DO Rueda? published a book on how to prune

38 Vine>ards in La Seca

it, "In well-managed vineyards, vineyards that remain in the area is with good pruning of ihe green truly low. And in the universe of the shoots, you can get 8,000 kilos Ossian pre-phylloxera vines, to talk of high quality, but in the top- about yields is absurd considering range wines the yield limiialion the impoverished soils in the Nieva should be greater because area and the solemn centenarian concentration is essential." vines growing there. The example of Proios, one of Moreover, Ossian is one of the few the most interesting projects by wineries that has been working a firm based in the DO Ribera from the start with native yeasts. del Duero and one of the few Beiondrade joined it a few years from there to have built a ago, although Didier acknowledges winery in the DO Rueda, falls that this method makes things somewhere in the middle. For complicated because constant its young Verdejo of which laboratory monitoring is required, 750,000 bottles are produced, and the yeasts may vary from year they work vvith vineyards with to year. At Marques de Riscal, they an average age of 18 years and use natural yeasis in their two top- yields of less than 8,000 kilos range whites, Finca Montico (made per hectare. Bul for Protos in stainless steel with plenty of time Verdejo Fennentado en Barrica, on the lees) and Limousin (cask- of which only 5,000 bottles are aged). Luis Hurtado de Amezaga made, they harvest the grapes stresses that "The varietal profile is by hand, then select only the purer and more original, but best, achieving a yield of 5,500 fermentation is more difficult to 7,000 kilos per hectare. because the native yeast population Belondrade works below 5,000 does not always survive the low kilos per hectare, josti Parienie temperatures." They have been and Bodegas Naia at an average working on selecting a native yeast of 6,000 kilos for their young that would withstand cold Verdejo wines. This is also the fermentation and the result was first figure for Palacio de Bornos, applied vvith the 2011 vintage. the first in this area to produce a barrel-fermented wine. But they set especially demanding Yeasts, barrels, standards for their Palacio de vats, eggs... Bomos Vendimia Seleccionada, Yeasts are a matter of importance in a more concentrated wine the DO Rueda, In recent years, it which comes from a vineyard has become clear ihat they have a aboul 70 years old and is great influence on the aromatic style only made in the best years. of wines, leading to especially Production from the really old powerful, exotic wines that come

39 VERDEJO

Old vine in DO Rueda

closer to the character of Sauvignon .At the Marques de Riscal winery, Blanc. Didier Belondrade claims the aging period for Limousin has that straw and bitter notes are been cut back to about six months characteristic of the variety, while in 600 and 800 liter barrels. Clearly Luis Hurtado de Amezaga believes ihe classic Bordeaux 225 liter barrel "The Vcrdejo aroma should be is being ousted by larger sizes. reminiscent of fennel and white Today Belondrade uses only 300 blossom and should have a grassy liter barrels, and firms such as touch to it." Ossian and Jose Pariente combine Telmo Rodriguez, one of Spain's several sizes, going to up 500 liters. most internationally-renowned "In the future, quality won't cnologists who has projects in many necessarily by given by the barrels, different parts of the world, goes bul I like a touch of wood in even further and claims: "The Verdejo wines," says Eulogio variety profile is an absurdity. The Calleja. He remembers that whites great wines do not smell of their here used to be fermented in variety. Our idea is lo focus on the wooden tanks and he is currently ground, on the places that allow working with large wooden Verdejo to best express the terroir." containers. Naia, his youngest Afier a little more than ten years white, which always contained a since his arrival in the area to make small percentage of barrel wine, a white with a good price/quality today contains 20% of Verdejo from ratio (Basa, annual production of wooden barrels. 50,000 crates, 80% for export), he And the story goes on. Josd Pariente has now launched his first top- and Ossian are expeiimcnting with range Verdejo. El Transistor reOects fermentation in egg-shaped, a patchwork of vineyards having a concrete tanks holding up to 1,600 very specific profile with grapes that liters. The sample I was invited to are vinificd in a multitude of taste at Ossian .seemed to me to containers: barrels of different ages offer great purity and to be very and formats, vats (large wooden respectful of the tcrroir and the tanks), stainless steel, even concrete variety. Marivi Pariente, owner of eggs. The result in the glass is the Jose Pariente vvinery, will be harmonious, complex and elegant. going even further and this year is .'\nd the concept undoubtedly gives to launch a new wine made using food for thought. this method. It is to be called Jose The Verdejo wines that are most Paricnte Cuvee Especial, and only highly appreciated today use the 3,000 bottles will be produced. One barrel fermentation formula, but of her favorite vineyards has been almost all of them are now looking chosen for the occasion, a vase- for a more subtle presence of oak. shaped vineyard planted 35 years

40 Belondrade vineyard

ago in La Seca. So clearly there are colleagues in the DO. does not still plenty of options for working mince his words, "1 insist that a v^'ilh the Verdejo variety and at least Belondrade can last for up to eight a handful of vrineries with drive and years, especially in a large formal," energy. The vertical lasting held in Madrid The real test will be to see how such three years ago to commemorate his wines mature in the bottle. Telmo winery's 15"' anniversaiy proved losl:r.\klEy:i him right, affording a very Rodriguez says, "A wine only promising credential for the best of becomes good when it matures and the Spanish Verdejo wines. loses its varietal character, ll should be able to age in the bottle for five to seven years." Many of the Verdejo Amaya Cervera h a journalist specializing in Spanish wines. She is wines mentioned in this article pass former editor-in-cMef o/Sibarilas the test with fiying colors three and magazine and member of the Ciiia even four years later, but for most Penin's tasdng panel. She has worked of them it is too early to tell. for publications such us the Robb I have had some excellent Report and is currently a member experiences with six- and seven- of the editorial staff of Todovino and year-old bottles of Palacio de Bornos of the tasting panel of La Guia Vendiinia Seleccionada. Didier Todovino. Belondrade. who can pride himself with a longer history than his

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41

1

Spain has cultivated rice for well over a thousand years—in fact, ever since it was introduced by the Arabs {711 -1492). It naturally follows that rice, more versatile than any other staple, has been a constant in traditional Spanish cuisine, Use some garlic, tomatoes and any vegetable or legume available, and the result is a delightful poor man's dish; use lobster or shrimp and it can rival anything on a king's table. Paella! many a reader will immediately volunteer. Paella is still Spain's best-known dish, yet rice and chefs have come a long way over the past two decades. In its traditional and newly experimented applications, rice has been and continues to be a great source of inspiration. Rice makes chefs shine... and vice versa!

Author Photos Anke van Wijck Adan/©ICEX Amador Toril/OICEX

and Shine

RICEMAY.,VL'GL;ST 2C\2 SPAIN Cfl jlJRMETOUR 43 RICE

I'iM Baiilla X Sollann

Close to 900,000 tons of rice are and climate. Yet less than 20% of al! PDO certification in Spain, grown per year in Spain in some rice produced has PDO protection, Calasparra is situated inland in the eight areas. Our focus here, as this covers only the traditional northwestern part of Murcia, in however, will be on the three areas varieties and implies fully southeast Spain. The landscape is holding a certificate of origin, guaranteed homogeneity and rugged, with haphazardly strewn namely Protected Designation of quality of each PDO-numbered pine-covered roch outcroppings, Origin (PDO): Calasparra (Murcia), package. Rice is deeply steeped in which at dusk and dawn become Valencia, and Delta del Ebro tradition, but it is also a source of shrouded in a bluish veil melting (Tarragona-Catalonia), all in eastern new inspiration. When it comes to together into an almost oriental Spain, in order from south to north. preparation, a traditional rice dish picture. Who would ever expect Although there is no substantial in any of its versions is necessarily this place to also be home to a vast difference, each of these areas grows based on local, seasonal and readily expanse of rice fields? Yet the fields the varieties best adapted to soil available ingredients, from both a of the valley watered by the Segura practical and gasironomic and Mundo Rivers (for many standpoint This also applies to a centuries and as a result of the cool, Websites more innovative approach, as pure mountain water and natural ingredients and culinary procedures circulation system) produce widely have taken on an increasingly recognized top-quality rice. "Only harvesting is becoming mechanized. PDO Calasparra creative edge. In Spain, rice is rarely www. docalasparra.com served as an accompaniment bul, The watering system and other (English, Spanish) rather, constitutes an integral part agricultural methods have remained of the dish and has an important practically unchanged since the PDO Arroz de Valencia role in the organoleptic qualily of Arab era," explains Nati Aznar, a vww. arrozdeva len cia, o rg the end result. well-known food historian, whose (Englisti, Spanish) comprehensive study Rice in Spain: Pioneering quality History', Agriculture and Gastronomy PDO Arroz del Delta del Ebro As early as 1986, Calasparra rice is about to be published. www. do-del tadelebre.com While all rice produced in the PDO (Catalan, Spanish) vvas the first cereal grain to obtain

4.4 O

Semi-wtiole grain Balilla x Sollana Whole grain Balilla x Sollana o

cn

' • V A ^ ik

areas is of the species Oryza sativa not to be overcooked. While Bomba pretty Calle Mayor, you will find L. and subspecies japonica, they is only produced as white rice, Jose fiospederia Constitucion, where grow a number of different Ruiz, director of the main chef Manuela de Paco delights cultivars, although the prized cooperative Virgen de la Esperanza, clients with Murcia's most Bomba is common to all three. explains that, in response to market traditional rice dishes (never called There is little doubt that Bomba is demands, they are increasingly paella here, but simply rice, or the star of Spanish rice. Its pearly commercializing biological light arroz): arroz con polio, arroz con core denotes a considerable content brown and whole grain Balilla x conejoy caracoles, and arroz viudo. In of starch, which confers it a highly Sollana, mostly for export. "Exports this historically poor area, rice with absorptive quality; however, as a of all types of Calasparra rice have a bit of chicken was the most result of its hardness and special increased considerably over the past ubiquitous, rabbit and snails was structure, it does not break easily year and a half," says Ruiz, and that reserved for Sundays, and the and, thus, does not become mushy. includes all five continents (imagine simplest, "widowed rice", was Bomba is also a more delicate Japanese makis made with actually made with only garlic, variety with a smaller yield and a Calasparra Bomba!). Invited by dried round nora peppers, pimentdn more brittle plant structure Dutch delicatessen wholesaler (a lype of Spanish paprika) and requiring careful handling. This is Vanilla Venture, Ruiz and a small white beans. They are all equally why it costs twice as much or more team of cooks recently gave three delicious, meaning that they are full than other types of round rice. And days of demonstrations in The of Oavor yet light, not in the least this is also a reason for the frequent Netherlands, attended by over 90 because the layer of rice is use of Balilla x Sollana, the other chefs. The Murcian Institute for delightfully thin and the rice is PDO Calasparra variety selected Agricultural and Food Research and done to perfection. especially to render a stronger plant Development (IMIDA) and the For a more innovative take on rice with a higher yield. Its grains look University of Murcia are conducting in this area, a visit to El Olivar similar to Bomba and also offer studies to produce a crianza, or restaurant in nearby Moratalla is a excellent absorption, but are less aged rice, intended to improve must. Firo Vazquez, chef-owner and resistant to stickiness and require a some of its culinary properties. one of Murcia's few food gurus, is watchful or experienced eye so as In Calasparra, at the end of the an expert in (among other things)

45 RICE

creatively reinterpreting traditional In view of the overall success, local rice dishes: slightly nutty light firm Probicasa has jumped on the brown rice and vegetables topped bandwagon and launched a handy with thinly-grated broiled slivers of product consisting of two cans, one cured Murcia cheese, or his savory containing the basic ingredients and Bahia rice with rabbit and wild broth and a smaller one with the mushrooms. Whatever dish you corresponding 150 g (5.29 oz) of fancy, save some room for dessert. Calasparra rice. It only requires a Vazquez serves Spain's archetypical fiat pan, additional water, some salt arroz con leche, a very light rice to taste, and 20 minutes of your pudding, stuffed into tiny fried time. You can fool anyone! honey-drizzled pastries. For a few minutes you'll be transported into One Thousand and One Nights. Balilla x Sollana Paella Valenciana and much more We are now heading some 250 km And the real (155 mi) northeast of the paella is .... Mediterranean shore. As opposed to Calasparra, here, after miles and miles of the eminent Valencia

Look for the Paeila Vatenciana Semi-whole grain Balilla x Sollana orange orchards, the landscape Tradicional con DOP Arroz de Valencia flows naturally into the wetlands of seal. Ingredients for this regulated EAlbufera, a nature reserve just paella may vary with location and season, yet ten ingredients should be south of the capital city of Valencia, common to all of them: olive oil, where the famous rice from Valencia chicken, rabbit, fresh ripe tomatoes, is grown and which is widely ferraura and garrafo (local flat green recognized as the cradle of paella. beans and large flat white beans, respectively), water, salt, saffron and, of There is little doubt that paella course, PDO Valencia rice. There are a Whole grain Balilla x Sollana Valenciana is the paradigmatic number of accepted regional and Spanish dish. The fact that it has seasonal variations, such as duck in L'Albufera area, PDO artichokes from often been misused both here and Benicarlo, fai'e//a (another typical bean abroad and has not always lived up variety), vaquetas (mountain snails), to expectations is no secret. This is pimentdn (a type of paprika from Spain), garlic, and fresh rosemary. You why a group of concerned chefs will most likely not have access to citrus and restaurant owners from the wood to build a fire, but that shouldn't Bomba region of Valencia, headed by keep you from trying.

46 Rafael Vidal, owner of the Yet, according lo Ruiz, the increase legendary Restaurante Levanie (in in the use of Bomba has been Benisanb) and backed by such phenomenal in both the domestic - gastronomic celebrities as Adri;"). and restaurant channels. "There are Arzak, Ruscalleda and Subijana, more and more foodies vvho, unlike look the initiative to regulate this many home cooks, are less Gleva emblematic dish and to apply for concerned about price," he the corresponding quality explains, and "Chefs, especially in certificate to be registered under larger-scale operations, are even less the auspices of PDO Arroz de concerned about price, so Bomba is Valencia. It is expected to be their best bet for a good result." granted in 2012. Now anyone vvho This also applies to exports. The wants to put paella Valenciana on production of whole grain rice here their menu vvill have to comply is anecdotal. Says Ruiz; "It's just not with a number of requisites (see part of the tradition." insert, p. 46). What i.s a tradition is to have paella Monisiancll at Malvarosa, the gorgeous beach in Santos Ruiz, manager of the PDO Valencia's port area, which is fined Arroz de Valencia Regulatory Council in Sueca (home to the annual International Paella

Contest), is clear: "We only grow Franco tradition-related varieiies." Besides

Bomba, I'DO Arroz dc Valencia Girona protects two other prevalent varieties: the very similar Bahia and • Barcelona Scnia, which also offer a higher •Taxragona -1 yield and are thus less expensive, Senia but arc also less resistant to •Castoiibn overcooking. However, thanks to ongoing research, a newly variety V^encia called Albufera was recently incorporated. It offers the Alicante crcamincss of the Bahia and Senia, Meirrttrtrftan Sea but with a resistance similar to that Murcia of Bomba. It has already created 1 POO AmsM Delta del E»D 2 POO VTOZ do VMnch addiction among a number of chefs. Tcbre 3P00Cal8Sc>ami

47 RICE

with some 20 lively beach boats enter the harbor to drop off "But this cuisine has grown on me; restaurants, perhaps after a visit to their precious loads. 95% of my ingredients are from the nearby rice museum. Next to the Today Valencia is an exciting eclectic here." Rice has a strong presence on posh Las Arenas Motel is La Rosa, city that should be on any Spain- the menu. Afier crispy Bomba and one of the original eateries, dating lover's itinerary It successfully seaweed chips. Knoller seduces you back to 1925. In an open kitchen on combines tradition with up-to-date with seemingly simple but clearly a huge charcoal-fuelled cast-iron technology, architeciure, and complex dishes such as brothy stove. Julio Saura prepares his culture, and a delightful and varied .Albufera rice with Delta oysters; the widely-varying paellas, which arc gastronomy A place not to be traditional ano< "bint" (dirty rice) finished off with a two-minute Hash missed is Riff, a small and pleasant done his way, with a gradual in the oven, and several versions of one-Michelin-star restaurant, run by incorporation of extra virgin olive hearty arroz caldoso (soupy rice) chef Bernd Knoller. You guessed it, oil from Gaudiel and dusted vvith and anoz meloso (brothy rice). Of Knoller is German. Trained in the powder of dehydrated cuttlefish course, here the emphasis is entirely Black Forest and , he came to intestine; rice and vegetables with on fish, which comes in directly Valencia almost 20 years ago for a transparent fresh Iberico bacon; and from the auction (lonja), just a visit and decided to stay. "I don't fowl rice with shavings of black stone's throw away and well vvonh a have Valencian roots, so I had to truffic from SarriOn. As said, not to visit at 5 in the aficrnoon, when vvork especially hard," he explains. be missed!

Tcbrc Scnia

48 o o

—

>——I cn

Belonging Riet Veil, partly financed vvith the consumption of rice and its sale of organic rice. derivatives, Moya stresses one of its to the land PDO Arroz del Delta del Ebro also relevant characteristics; As opposed Some 200 km (124 mi) further up protects a number of varieties to other cereals, rice is gluten-free. north, in the province of Tarragona, (Bahia, Bomba, Fonsa, Gleva, Angehna Sancho, the young and where Spain's largest river, the Ebro, Montsianell, Senia and Tebre). highly motivated expon manager releases its generous fiow into the Teresa Moya, secretary of the PDO's of Arrossaires, notes that some 17% Mediterranean, we find the Delta Regulatory Council, says that of their production is exported, del Ebro and its homonymous besides the cherished Bomba, on primarily to Eastern Europe and nature reserve, yet another the market we will find the the Middle East. And Spanish rice ecosystem surviving thanks lo excellent yet lov^-er priced 100% is going even more global; she is rice culture. "Rice fields are Gleva Extra, mainly produced on preparing for a trade mission to essential to the conservation and the left bank of ihe Ebro River and West Africa. survival of these wetlands," says commercialized by Arrossaires del Just a few kilometers from here lies Ignasi Ripoll, who heads an Delta, and 100% Montsiaiiell Extra, Mas Prades, a typical whitewashed experimental ecological rice fami produced on the right bank and building recently refurbished into a for SEO/Eirdlife (the Spanish commercialized by CAmara Arrocera small hotel and restaurant, where association for ornithology) named del Montsia. As regards the growing chef Marc Curto is in charge of the

Gleva Mtitil.iiandl

49 RICE

kitchen. He is especially interested Marc wiih duck and foie; one of Right where the rice fields meet the in retrieving old recipes and giving Marc's associates supplies fish and Mediterranean lies LAmpolla, the so- them new life through different shellfish, especially the famous called "Door to the Delta". Although textures and presentauons. Proof of Delta ostron (a gnarly-shaped but it is very popular with tourists, it is this is his delicious brothy rice vvith delicious local oyster); he gets slill a fishing village and daily fresh galeras (a local type of crayfi.sh) and freshly-smoked local eel from the catches supply the local restaurants, locally-grown artichokes, and his firm Roset; and the tradirional like Restauranie Sol. Here, on the timbale of baldana (rice-stuffed baldana, made fresh every Thursday, first fioor, overlooking the silvery sea blood sausage). Obviously Curto is a comes from Del Paulo, the family's with the Delta shoreline in the staunch believer in the relevance of butcher. They are the new distance, Mari Tere runs the front the Slow Food concept and has, of generation which continues to room and her daughter Teima, as her course, applied for membership. belong to the land, yet their mother and grandmother did before, "We have the sea, the river, possibilities lo stay in business and has taken over the kitchen. Among mountains, orchards and vegetable grow have increased considerably their traditional dishes such as the gardens right here, so why look thanks to the internet. Facebook, fabulous arroz negro (black rice made anywhere else?" he says. Ana and Twitter, blogs, you name it; they vvith fish ink), she prepares anossejai her brother Luis run Granja are all proficiently using social to perfection, a typical fisherman's Luisiana, a duck farm supplying media to boost business. dish made onboard. It consists of

Facts and figures

The challenge for probably any home or atmospheric pressure, the specific heat 2.5 parts warm liquid to one part rice, with professional cook is to use the correct source (wood, gas, oven, etc.) and a cooking time of 17/18 minutes proportion of rice/liquid. Whatever the intensity used, the type of recipient, its - It is generally recommended that once Intended end result: dry {\ike paella), brothy separation from the heat source, and the removed from its heat source, rice should (meloso). soupy (caldoso). oven-baked (a^ type of rice. Some of these factors you t>e allowed to stand for 2 to 5 minutes, homo), or cmsty (con cosfra). its quality cannot control and others you can, even to depending on its final consistency. depends on the right equation between the your benefit. - Needless lo say that nee kernels, desired absorption of flavors and f nal Here are some basic indications: especially of the Japonica varieties, swell consistency. Not an easy task, especially to twice and even thrice their original size - Bomba: approx. 3 parts warm liquid when Santos Ruiz, an accomplished cook during the process, so the initial layer of (water or broth) to one part rice, with a and consultant himself, points out (or rice should be very thin. "Each kernel cooking time of approximately 20 minutes rather, warns) that water reacts differently needs its space to soak up the flavors," according to geological height, climate, - All other varieties mentioned: approx. says Telma from Restaurante Sol.

50 hrst boiling a piece of any type of consolidated a leading position on June, vvhen markets are chockfull fish logether with potatoes, which the world's gastronomic hit list, vvith tender greens and other fresh is then drizzled with a subtle picada wholesalers and retailers specialized products. So from now on of roasted almonds, garlic, olive oil, in Spanish food products can now whenever you think "paella", also pimenton and a drop of vinegar; be found in most major think "arroz". meanwhile, the brolh is used to metropolitan areas worldwide, prepare the rice. The term arrossejat generally with their businesses Ankc van Wijck Addn is a .sociologist means lightly fr)ing the rice in a online and with a wide range of and has a Master's degree in simple sojrito of onion, gariic and specialties, including different gastronomy from Boston L/niversitv. saffron until it takes on a golden varieties of Spanish rice (ofien Her articles have appeared in The color. Then the broth is added. presented in pretty cloth sacks). But Boston Globe. You will hardly be able to wait for as much as you may "shine" in your that golden paella to be pui on preparation of an excellent arroz, Visit our website your table. nothing is quite the same as coming www.foodsjromspain.com, in whose lo Spain to see and taste for yourself. Products &r Recipes section you'll Your turn now There's no better time to come than find comprehensive informaiion Owing to the fact that Spain, over in May, vvhen the flooded fields about Spanish products and routes the past two decades, has gained and mirror ihe bright blue skies, and in about Spanish rice.

Bomba

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Photos recipes The wines were chosen by Jose Luis Toya Legido/©ICEX Julio Biosca, maitre d' and Ungidos* and Tomas Zarza/©ICEX at Julio OO Traslation Restaurant >• Jenny McDonald/©lCEX cn *For a more in-depth \ook at the chef, see Close-up cn BAKED RICE (Arroz al horno)

In old farmhouses in this part of Stock the oven at 185T / 365°F for 23 Spain, the oven used to be liijusi Tie the chicltpeas in a net, then minutes. After 15 minutes in the once a week and used non-stop to place in a pan with all the oven, add the pork ribs, trotters and make bread, roasts, rice, and cakes, ingredients. Cover with water, bring lightly grilled burifarra sausage and even preserves, using the latent to a boil and simmer gently for 90 slices. heat as the oven cooled dovvm. There minuies. Strain and set aside. Also To serve is no single recipe for baked rice. set aside the chickpeas. Serve the baked rice in the Recipes vary depending on where in Garnish earthenware dish in which it was the Valencia province they come cooked. For individual servings or Cut the butifarra sausage into slices from, in some places, a beaten egg is small portions, small cast iron pans and set aside. Pack the pork ribs in added towards the end of the can be used. cooking process to make what is vacuum pacl

53

oO OO Rice with artichoke stalks or OO cn — SOUPY RICE cn (Arroz amb penques o arroz caldoso)

In inland Valencia, famihouse diets in Stock minutes, adding boiling stock winter were based on the products of Fry the pork fillet or ribs in the olive occasionally (as with risotto) to the pig slaughter and homegrown oil until golden brown, then remove make a soupy rice. Salt to taste. vegetables. This typical recipie for from the heat. Place the pork in a To serve soupy rice combines pork with pan and add the mushrooms, Serve the rice in a soup dish and artichoke stalks. saffron, tomato flour, dried tomato, top each dish with a piece of turnip, ariithoke si ems. pigs' trotters trotter, dewlap and rib and SERVES 10 and beans (in a net). Cover v^ith sprinkle with a little Maldon ^,ali. water, bring to a boil and simmer For the stock: 150 g / 2/3 cups extra virgin over low heat to make sure the stock Cooking time olive oil; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz pork fillet or rib: 17 hours 125 g / 4 1 /2 oz peppery milk-cap (Lactarius remains clean Strain and set aside. piperatus) mushrooms; 15 saffron threads: Pre-cooked rice Preparation time 25 g /1 oz tomato flour; 75 g / 3 oz dried For each 1/4 1/4 cups of stock, add 45 minutes tomato; 300 g / 10 1/2 oz turnip; 600 g / 1 lb 125 g / 4 1/2 02 of rice and precook Recommended wine 5 oz articfioke stalks; 225 g / 8 oz pigs' for 8 minutes. Strain and cool the trotters; 550 g / 1 lb 4 oz white beans (soaked Uno 2009 (DO Valencia), by the rice as fast as possible. Transfer the overnight). This makes about 7 I / 29 1/2 cups Rafael Cambra vvinery. This red rice to an airtight container and set of stock. wine, made from Monastrell grapes aside for a maximum of 48 hours. and aged for 14 months, combines Others: 700 g / 1 1/2 lb pork ribs; 700 g / 1 to perfection the characteristics of 1/2 lb pork dewlap; 10 pigs' trotters; Maldon Pigs' trotters the grapes, the terroir and the salt; 700 g / 1 1/2 lb Senia rice, from PDO Cook the pigs' trotters vvith the bay Mediterranean climate. Its color, Arroz de Valencia; Ijay leaf; pepper; salt. leaf, pepper and salt. Bone and place in a rectangular mold. Cut structure and fiavor result in both When serving: 70 g / 2 1/2 oz red pine into 10 pieces and set aside. sireiigih and fruitiness, making il {Lactarius deliosus) mushrooms; 20 g / 1 oz the ideal companion for this soupy dried tomato; 4 saffron threads; 75 g / 3 oz Pork ribs and dewlap turnip, diced; 125 g / 4 1/2 oz artichoke Place the ribs and dewlap in stalks, diced; salt. vacuum packs and cook at fiS^C / 149"? for 14 hours. Remove, bone Tomato flour and cut the rind off the dewlap. Blanch tomatoes, peel and dry the Cut 10 pieces of rib and 10 of skin at 70°C I ISS^E When dewlap. Set aside. completely dehydrated, crush to a Rice powder. Saute the mushrooms, dried Dried tomato tomato and saffron threads, then Take the peeled tomatoes used to add some of the stock and bring to make the tomato Qour. Cut the flesh a boil. Add the turnip and pieces of into quarters and dehydrate al 70°C / artichoke stalk and bring to a boil 158°F on non-stick paper. again. Add the rice and boil for 4 RICE DRY EICE with fish and shellfish (Arroz seco de pescado y mariscos)

Two classic dishes from the Valencia Stock To cook the red shrimp, place on the region are arrOs del senyorel (rice Sauii the vegetables until golden. Inn gnll or: a lavfr ^i! rock salt. y.-K cooked with boned and shelled fish Add the mixed fish and cover with medium-sized shrimp will take aboul and shellfish) and arroz a banda (rice water Simmer lightly for aboul 20 4 minutes on each side to cook). cooked wnth a medley of fish). We minuies. Strain and set aside. To serve have taken our inspiration from Sofrito Transfer the rice lo a rectangular these two traditional recipes to create Heat the oil and gently fry ihe garlic, mold, leaving it loose, vvithout . Top vvith squid strips and a dish vvith a modem touch, such as then add the chopped flora pepper, the shrimp and, jusl before serving, squid ink ice cream. pinienton and threads of saffron. Cook for 2 minutes over very gentle the ink ice cream. Decorate with a hiile lomaio fiour. heal and add the grated tomato. SERVES 10 Cook for 15 minutes over low heat. Preparation time For the stock: extra virgin olive oil; 2 onions; Cuttlefish and squid ink 1 hour 15 minutes 4 carrots: 2 leeks; 3 kg / 6 1/2 lb mixed fish; ice cream Recommended wine 41/17 cup water. Brunoise the onion and green Trio Infernal N° 0/3 2010 (DOCa pepper Gently sauie the onion, Ptiorat), by Combier Fischer Gerin. For the sofrito: 1.5 1 / 6 1/2 cup olive oil; pepper and garlic, add the cuttlefish This interesting while wine, made 3 cloves garlic, grated; 75 g / 3 oz fora and squid trimmings, deglaze with from Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo pepper; 50 g / 2 oz red pimentdn (a lype of red wine and reduce to boil off as grapes grown on vines over 40 years Spanish paprika}; 10 saffron threads; 350 g / much alcohol as possible. Add old, is intensely aromatic. In the 12 oz grated tomato cuttlefish and sc[uid stock to cover. mouth, it indicates a perfect combinarion ot ageing—12 months For the squid and cuttlefish ink ice cream: Simmer gently for aboul 20 minutes, in French oak—vvith mineral touches 1 onion; 1 green pepper: 1 clove gariic; then add the ink, skimming constantly. Salt to taste and transfer from a slatey soil. This warm, 300 g / 10 1/2 oz squid and cuttlefish to Pacojet containers. When frozen, Mediterranean wine makes a great trimmings; squid and cuttlefish ink to taste blend untO creamy. partner for this fi.sh di.sh. (the ice cream should be totally black); 1.51/ 6 1/2 cup red wine; 1.5 I / 6 1/2 cup cuttlefish Rice and squrd stock. Sauit the fresh cuttlefish and squid teniae les. Add the rice and cook over For the rice: 250 g / 9 oz extra virgin olive oil; medium heat. Add the sofrito and 250 g / 9 oz fresh cuttlefi^, diced; 250 g / the boiling stock (I part rice to 2 9 oz fresh squid tentacles, diced; 150 g / parts stock), stir for the first 5 5 1/2 oz shrimp tails, peeled; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz minutes, then leave to cook for Mediterranean mussels, shelled; 900 g / 2 lb another 15 minutes without stirring. Bomba rice, from PDO Arroz del Delta del At minute 18 add the shrimp tails Ebro. and mussels.

Others: 250 g / 9 oz fresh squid rolled up to be cut into thin strips like tagliarini; 10 red shrimp; rock sail.

56

The Welcome Return of Traditional Spanish Bread

Bread may be the staff of life in Spain, but it Inasn't always been value(j as a fine food—until now. Really good bread is on the rise, says Paul Richardson.

Upper CRUST BREAD

TEXT PAUL RICHARDSON/©ICEX

PHOTOS AMADOR TORIL/©ICEX

mi o o

Pages 58-59. from top to txjitom .ind lefl >- 10 right: bread from Alfacar. bread from Valladolid (iichu^-uini)). bread from Ncda. bread from Alfacar (rosra. barra pcifucha cn and hoguza), bread from Cea, pa dc pagti caiatii (peasant bread) cn and pa mcrcna df htai xeLva (brown bread made with .xeix.i flour)

Ba-jd from Neda (pre\ious page). Fa momio dc biat .vt-Lvj (right).

Bread is the cornerstone of the thickener for sauces, especially in industrial product, highly Western diet. For centuries, in the Catalan cuisine, lo say nothing of processed, vvith little interest in popular consciousness, "bread" has bread-based desserts like lorrijas lerms of flavor or texture. (The meant practically the same thing as (bread soaked in milk, dipped in advent of pre-cooked bread, sold "food". Hardly surprising, since egg and fried in olive oil, then frozen, has enabled "fresh baked" bread, plus a little of something svveetened vvith sugar or honey and bread lo be sold in establishments else, was essentially what the ohen spiced with cinnamon). vvith no experience of baking, like population lived on. Visitors often comment on the convenience stores and gas centrality in Spanish culture visibility of bread on Spanish tables stations). Al the same lime, is evident even in the Spanish and bar-tops and the common sight however, traditional varieties have language. Dozens of sayings, of diners clutching a piece of bread clung to life and the number of expressions, and rhymes feature in one hand while eating vvith the "speciality breads" in a myriad bread in some way or other, other In this, as in other aspects of shapes and sizes has grown revealing its privileged place in Spanish food, however, appearances exponentially. Bread in Spain has popular culture. More than 150 can be deceiving. Spain has had an lost its humble status: it has moved bread-based sayings have been awkward relationship vvith bread. up in the world, and seems counted, throwing a fascinating Once upon a time Spain was one of determined to make a success of light on the idiosyncrasies of Europe's greediest consumers; in itself in the privileged world of Spanish food and life. 1964, annual consumption was 134 gourmet food. The importance of bread in the kg (295.4 lb) per head of history of Spanish eating is also population. By 2009, that figure reflected in its use as an ingredient had faUen to 40 kg (88 lb) per Use your loaf in the national cuisine. Cooking person per year, making Spain the Attitudes are changing. .After with bread represents almosi a least enthusiastic bread consumer in decades in which il was generally culinary subgenre in itself: consider the EU. The reasoning behind this undervalued, bread is at last making the hearty soups and stews is a complex question having to do a comeback, this time as a gourmet employing day-old bread (gazpacbo, vvith changing lifestyles and the product with rich gastronomic a cold soup made with tomato, common (if erroneous) perception potential. To give one example of sweet bell pepper, cucumber and that bread is fattening. Where for this trend at its highest level, the bread, and flavored vvith garlic and ceniuries, eating large quantities of influential food conference Madrid vinegar, is the most obvious bread was, in part, a dietary FusiPn has for the last two years example, with .sopes mallorquines, a compensation for the lack of other (2011 and 2012) reserved a secrion vegetable soup poured over thinly foodstuffs, nowadays bread is more of ils program for bread—notably as sliced dry bread, and the pan- ohen seen simply as a vehicle for a basic element of the restaurant Spanish sopa de ajo, garlic soup, not other, more appetizing and experience. The consensus at this far behind); migas (crumbling day- luxurious ingredients. year's event seemed to be that old bread, moistened vvith water Bread has, then, lost its pole restaurants in Spain are at last and then gently simmered with oil position in the national food waking up to the possibilities or lard and a variety of sweet or culture. At the same time, the offered by artisan bread, and chefs savory accompaniments), which are gastronomic qualily of the produci increasingly choose either lo make hugely popular in much of rural has tended to decline. Much of the their own bread or depend on the Spain; and the use of bread as a bread consumed today is an services of a trusted ma.sier baker.

(M BREAD

Brvad from Valladolid ikchuguino) Peasant bread Brcid froin Cea

Chefs Oriol Rovira of Els Casals bread. The term refers to the varieiy flat, vvith four or five raised edges (1 Michelin star), Jordi Roca of El of wheat also called candeal, which forming a square or pentagon Celler de Can Roca (3 Miclielin has a low moisture content and less around its surface, and has a matte, stars) and star baker Anna Bellsola gluten than usual. The dough for smooth, golden crust. (Baluard Barceloneta Bakery), all candeal bread vvas commonly Lechuguino has, as yet, no official agreed that breads offered in stretched and folded (a technique protection as a traditional product, restaurants could and should be called refiriado in Spanish) instead which is not true of another much more carefully matched with of kneaded and only allowed to rise important Spanish candeal bread, the menu in question, for every once, producing a dense, compact the Pan de Cruz de Ciudad Real. dish has its corresponding bread loaf with a thick, golden crust. This exceptional bread was only the variety A year earlier, the Candeal bread was, and is, highly second in Spain to receive (in 2009) conlerence hosted a fascinating appreciated above all in the the coveted Protected Geographical workshop held by Daniel Jorda, provinces of Zamora and Valladohd, Indication (PGi) Pan de Cmz de who belongs to the third generation where it originated, but is also found Ciudad Real, Its roots lie in the 13'" ol a family of bakers based in in Exlremadura, Andalusia and century, when the area around Barcelona since 1927. Jordii, a Castile-La Mancha. Almagro and Manzanares (both leading light in Spain's incipient (Madridtienemiga, a fascinaring cities in central-southeni Spain) bread revolution, says his mission is breadmakers' blog, recommends the was dominated by the religious and to "bring about a new focus in the traditional pan candeal still made by military order of Calatrava (founded baking sector, getring rid of the La Mari at her bakery in the town of in 1158). In those days, and until tedious, boring and irrelevant image Ruidera, in central-southern Spain, relaUvely recently, the province of that bread has acquired in the last close to the beautiful freshwater Ciudad Real was a major producer few years and giving back its lagoons of Ruidera.) of cereals including candeal wheat, dignity and quality." Al his bakery, Other traditional breads of the and the Pan de Cruz has a close La Trinidad. Jorda is bringing back candeal type are the hollo sevilImu), hislorical relationship with traditional recipes for long- the telera of C6rdoba, and the Manchego cuisine. fermented sourdough breads as well famous panes de Valladolid (breads The migas, LasLas (a single slice of as introducing innovations like from Valladolid). The latter have a bread with one or more food items olive breads and original panes de distinguished history. Made since on lop) and picatostes (slices of autor (signature breads) featuring the 9''' century, they were much bread from loaves fried wiih lard or unusual combinations tike white enjoyed by the Emperor Charles t ohve oil and usually sweetened with chocolate and strawberry, wasabi, of Spain and V of Germany (1500- granules of rehned sugar on the melon, and Iberico products. 1558), who took the recipe with outside) are all ideally made with it. Before we look to the future, him from Valladolid (northwest and the Gtiiso de las Bodas de however, we need to rediscover the Spain) to his monastic retreat in Camacbo, a dish inspired by ihe roots. In terms of traditional breads, La Vera (southwest Spain). The best wedding scene in Cervantes' Don there is no doubt that Spain known of these classic Valladolid Quixote (die novel written by possesses a wide variet)'. And candeal breads is the Icchuguino, so Miguel de Cervantes in ihe early regional characteristics in bread can called in reference to the concentric 17"' century), classically includes still be discerned, if we look hard circles sometimes traced on its rounds of fried Pan de Cruz as part enough. Castile (central Spain) is, cmst, giving it the appearance of a of its rich melange of chicken, historically, the heartland of candeal flower or lettuce. The loaf is round, onion, egg yolks and white wine.

62 Brc.id from V'albdolid (lt"chui;uinj) Shaped in a compact, rounded loaf, Against the grain slightly elongated, with a ihick, the Pan de Cmz de Ciudad Real is dark, chewy crust, often bearing a Raising ones appreciation of immediately recognizable by the deep cut which opens wide in the tradiuonal breads often follows a cross-shaped incision across iis oven giving the loaf a particular personal learning curve. 1 rounded exterior and the mark ol a characteristically disjointed aspect. myself have a clear memory of the C (deriving from the Order of Like many of the world's best first rime 1 realized there was more Calatrava) pricked onto its base. breads, pan de Cea is made using to Spanish bread than the Cut into the chestnut-colored cmst, mother dough (masa madre), ubiquitous barra de pan (the implying that fermeiiiarion is sei in and the crumb is dense, soft and standard long white loaf found in motion not by fresh yeast but by consistent, with no holes, this shops and supermarkets), I vvas using dough from a previous batch, compactness of texture being driving through Galicia. in the creating a continuum that stretches explained in part by ihe low- northwesi of the country, vvhen 1 back for years, if not generations. humidity of the air in this part of stumbled on a place with a Some Olher good breads, it mighl La Mancha. According to the reputation for some of the mosl be argued, are easier to find in Regulatory Council of the PGI, an delicious "craft" breads in Spain. I Galicia than in any olher part of screeched to a halt at the first unopened loaf of Pan de Cruz Spain, and Galician people are baker)' I came to in the raunicipalily should keep m good condition for fussier than most about the of San Cristobal de Cea and up to a week. standard of their daily loaL Notable snapped up a loaL nibbling almost Francisco Tejero, a bakery breads found in this region include half of it before 1 got to Orense. The consultant based in Madrid (and the hola (Santiago de Compostela fame of the pan de Cca (which has crowTied world champion of artisan and La Coruna), tola cic Porrifio been made in something like its bread in Paris in 1992) says this (Pontevedra), cornecho (Santiago de current form for the last 700 years bread variety was once hugely Compostela), pan de Ousd (Lugo) in Carballiiio county) precedes its popular, then declined during the distinction as the first Spanish bread and pan de Carballo (La Corufia), 20"^ century, and is now once to receiv'e the PGI, five years before not forgetting the extraordinary again highly valued by the gourmets the Pan de Cruz de Ciudad Real. In borona or broa, a dense bread of Ciudad Real. shape, Cea bread is bulbous and of great amtquiiy and an object of

63 t-•

Bread from Neda great affection among older cake). The town recently mixture of strong flour and flour Gahcians. Even among this inaugurated the Ruta del Pan de made from varieties of local cereals generally promising panorama, Neda (Neda Bread Route), an (wheat andAir rye, though the however, there are especially high itinerary taking in the old flour addition of rye is preferable for its points. A close relative of Cea, mills on the Belelle River (hislorical deep, toasty flavor), with plenty of though distant as the crow flies, is focus of bread produciion in the humidity in the dough to ensure lis Neda. This small town in the town), a guided visit to one of the open, chewy lexture and deliciously northern province of La Corufia is, town's 20 bakeries, and a lasring of crisp, crunchy crust. like Cea, an unabashed flag-waver local breads and empanadas. An Regional specialties in traditional for the culture of good bread. important slop on the tour is the baking can provide some of the Though Neda bread cannot boast Ceniro de Actividades Motus, nicest surprises in any gastronomic PGI status, it has long been the located in a restored stone-grinding tour of Spain, especially in the focus of an exaltation, the Galician waiermill on the banks of the river, south, in .Andalusia. The mollete, term for a gastronomic fiesta in one of 20-odd mills, some of which a soft, flat wheat flour bun from homage to a valued local product. were still functioning until 1950. the tovvm of Antequera (Malaga) is Since 1989 the Eesta do Pan lakes This old stone building is now an now found over a wide area of place on the Hrsi Sunday in interactive museum where visitors .'Kndalusia and beyond, making it September, with feasts and tastings learn aboul the arts of maize and a popular choice for everything of the famous bread as well as the wheat cultivation, flour niilhng and from breakfast pan tumaca (toasted local empanadas (dough hlled with traditional breadmakiiig. .As lor ihc country bread rubbed with garlic meat, fish or vegetables and oven bread itselL like all proper Galician and ripe tomato and dressed with baked) and panes de huevo (sponge breads, this one is made from a a pinch of salt and extra virgin olive

Canta6n'an Sea Websites France

Pan de Alfacar viww.pandealfacar.es (Spanish) Giroiia

Pan de Csa •- -ValladolKi viww. pandecea.org (Galician, Spanish) Pan de Cruz de Ciudad Real Atlanllc www. turismocastilialamancha.com/ Ocean Madrid Palma da restaurantes./denominaciones-de-ori- Mallorca gen,'igp-pan-de-cmz/ 5 BalGan'c Islands (Chinese, English, French. Spanish) Ciudad Real Pa de Pages CatalS (peasant bread) www2 O.gencal.caV docs/D AR'DE_De- partament/DE03_Normativa/DE03_05_l nformacio_publica/2010/Docu me n ts/Fit MexHterrangen SoU xers_estatics/2010_plec_con d ic ionsjg

p_pa_pages_cas.pdf (Spanish) 1 BrsaO from N«Ea 2 PGtPsnaaOafl Pan de Valladolid 3 Sraactfi www. pandevailadolid.es 5 PQI Pin deCruidsCiudaa FteiU e Siadt unan mado froen jcfiixa Jiouf (English, Spanish) 7 Bread ton ABaear

64 o

OO

Dark and handsome? Spanish attitudes to bread are largely determined by the receni history of the country. Historically, white bread, made from hne wheat flour from which the bran had been removed, was the food of the well- off urban classes. The bread of the rural poor was generally darker, denser, and sometimes made fro>m • rye, especially in non-vvheal- growing areas. The result vvas that eaters of dark bread came to despiscne it and long for the fine texture and mild flavor of white bread. As soocnn as white bread became widely available, the chewy and strong-

Bread from Cea flavored dark breads of the past naturally fell out of favor In my adopted village in Extremadura, oil) to the best of all possible ham the latest Spanish bread to be a anything other than the soft- bocadillos (sub sandwiches). candidate for PGL The Pan de centered modern-style white breads The Andalusians love their typical Alfacar logo now appears in the (often made with Canadian flour breads, and none more so lhan Pan windows of all good bakeries in treated vvith whitening agents, anti- de Alfacar, haihng from the small and the bread is offered on caking agents and oiher tovvn of Alfacar, outside Granada. the tables of the city's most "improvers") is disparaged by my For ceniuries, at least since the Arab prestigious restaurants and tapas neighbors as "bread only good era (711-1492) and possibly earlier, bars. But the best place to buy enough for dogs". the town has been a byword in the Alfacar bread, many Granadinos Meanwhile a sea change is for the underway The organic movement vvill tell you, is the little kiosk in exceptional quality of its bread, in Spain champions local grain Granada's Plaza Mariana Pineda. which is a mother dough type using varieties, whole meal flours and the Join the queue of locals eager for wheat flour and local water from return to cereals like rye, spelt and their Alfacar loaves, crisp regarids the springs in the village (this water buckwheat. City-dwellers moving (very thin, flat, crunchy rectangular being often cited as the key factor). into the country, constituting w-hat With no less than 60 bakeries in crackers) and saladillas, an oil-rich is known as the "neo-rural" Alfacar and neighboring Viznar, flatbread reminisceni of Italian movement, have begun to demand local bread is very much a going focaccia, sprinkled with salt flakes denser, darker breads, rejecting the concern—especially since .Alfacar and practically addictive, and also pappy white barras popular with bread was singled out last year as one of Granada's best inventions. rural locals. The wheel has therefore

65

o o w >- cn cn Cru: de Ciudad Real bread

come full circle. Artisan mstic and muliigrain breads, Ciudad Real and surely Alfacar breadmakers are springing up both adding such novelties like olive and The message is clear: dull Spanish in ihe major cities and in the rural maize bread, organic and whole bread has had an easy ride for much context, providing mother dough, meal breads, cocas and muffins to too long. Fine tradiuonal breads are sourdough and rye breads to a new keep up vvith increasing demand. back, and they're looking lor a slice generation of Spanish bread While on the subject of Catalonia, it of the action. consumers. Real-bread initiatives would be a shame to conclude this are popping up in the most brief overview of traditional Spanish Paul Rirliflrdsoi! lives on a farm in surprising places: I recently breads vvithout mentioning Pa de northern Extremadura. A freelance discovered the fabulous Pa Moreno Pages Catala. The name, meaning travel and food writer, he is the auihor de Blai Xeixa (a produci of the Ark "'peasant bread" sounds vague, but of A Late Dinner: Discovering the of Taste of the Slow Food the bread in question is highly Food of Spain (Bloomsbuty, UK, and movement, Spain Gourmetour No. distinctive: it's a big brown wheel of Scribner, USA). 82), a bread from Majorca made a loaf, of the shape generally known vvith the ancient local wheat variety in Spain as hogaza (mass of bread We would like lo thank the xeixa by Tomeu Morro and which IS shaped into a rounded following groups for their Biancamaria Riso in their artisan form and baked in one piece). The contribution of photos to the bakery outside Pollenca (Majorca, Hour used is wheat, the crust is article: Bakers' Guild of Alfacar, PGl in the Mediterranean Sea). hard and cmnchy, the interior Pan de Cea Regulatory Council, PGI Among the cities, Barcelona compact yet relatively moist, with a Pan de Cmz de Ciudad Real (Catalonia, northeast Spain) leads pronounced toasty flavor and an Regulatory Council, Forn de Pa- the way. Barcelona-Reykjavik, agreeable acidity on the palate. For Pastisseria Vilamala bakery (Catalan founded by an Icelander and a years it seemed an anomaly that peasant bread). Pan de Valladolid Catalan, has buik up a loyal such a we 11-loved and keenly- group. La Nueva de Neda bakery following in the trendy consumed bread as Pa de Pages (bread from Neda), and Arc al Gel neighborhoods of ihe city center (toasted over a wood fire and bakery (brown bread made with vvith its fabulous sourdough breads rubbed vvith olive oil and tomato it .xeixa flour). in the Scandinavian style, while is nothing short of sensational) was baker Anna Bellsola has found not recognized as a traditional Visit our website success with the wood-fired oven bread variety worth protecting. www.foodsfromspain.com, in whose and stone-ground organic flours she Bakers all over Catalonia have been Products &r Recipes and Shop, uses in her new-wave Baluard pressing for such recognition for Travel & Dine sections you'll find Barceloneta Bakery. Meanume, old- years. And last year, finally, the comprehensive information about fashioned Barcelona jlequers good news vvas announced: it had Spanish products. (bakeries, in Catalan) like Turris applied for the PGI on behalf of the (presided over by star baker Xavier Pa de Pages Calais. All being well, Barriga), Fortino, Forn Boix and this classic bread vvill soon enjoy the aforementioned La Trinidad the protection it deserves, putting it have consolidated their range of up there with Cea, Pan de Cruz de

67

o Photos recipes The wines were chosen by o Jose Luis Toya Legido/OICEX Julio Biosca, maitre d' and and Tomas Zarza/©ICEX sommeiier at Julio Ungidos* Restaurant Traslation OO Jenny McDonald/©ICEX >- cn cn CEA BREAD TORRIJA and white chocolate with meringue ice cream and cocoa soup (Torrija de Pan de Cea y chocolate bianco con helado de leche merengada y sopa de cacao)

Bread from Cea (Galicia, in northwesi For the meringue ice cream: Meringue ice cream Spain) is the rustic bread that many 11/4 1/4 cup milk; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz egg yolks; Boil the milk vvith the glucose, Spanish children remember from their 150 g / 5 1/2 oz egg whites; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz cinnamon and lemon rinds and infancy. That includes me. Quite a few sugar; 50 g / 2 oz glucose: 40 g / 1 1 /2 oz leave to infuse. Mix the sugar vvith stabilizer; 2 lemon rinds; 2 cinnamon sticks; kilometers eastwards, in Cantabria, the stabilizer and the egg yolks, then ground cinnamon. where I grew up, we received bread add this mixture to the milk. Heat to from Cea, and when any was left over Torrija %yC I \%TE, then strain and leave it was made into torrijas (sweet milk- Cut the bread into slices 4 cm / 1 1/2 to cool. When the milk is almost soaked bread fritters), as in many other in thick and remove the cmsts. Heat cold (aboul 30°C / 86°F), mix with pans of the couniry. Considering that the water together vvith the the beaten egg whites. Transfer to the north of Spain in general was a chocolate. When ti comes to a boil, the ice cream maker traditional source of dairy products, remove from the heat and add the To serve such fritters were a common previously soaked sheets of gelatin. occurrence. I have updated this Serve a little cocoa soup over the Strain, pour onto the bread and leave traditional recipe by sweetening the bottom of the dish, place the torrija to soak. The torrija can be bread with white chocolate and in the center and ser\-e with the caramelized in two ways: the first is accompanying it with meringue- meringue ice cream. Sprinkle with a by covering the top with sugar and flavored ice cream. The cocoa soup little ground cinnamon. healing with a blowtorch until it adds a refreshing touch. Preparation lime turns golden, and the second is by 25 minuies making a light caramel in a frying SERVES 10 pan and dipping the torrija into it. In Recommended wine For ttie torrija: 1 loaf of Cea bread (0.5 kg / either case, the caramel should not Casta Diva Reserva Real, by Bodegas 1 lb 2 ozj; 4(D0 g /14 oz white chocolate; 1/21 / be dark brown. 2 1/6 cups mineral water: 8 g / 1 /4 oz gelatin Gutierrez de la Vega. Moscatel de sheets: 1(X) g / 3 1/2 oz sugar to caramelize. Cocoa soup Alejandria is the variety in this sweet but fresh tasting wine. The Mix the sugar with the cocoa. Heat For the cocoa soup: 125 g / 4 1/2 oz sugar; magnificent intensity of the aromas 75 g / 3 oz cocoa; 3.51 / 15 cups water; the milk and water and when the blend to perfection with this 1.51/6 1/2 cup milk. mucture reaches boiling point, add updated torrija. the sugar and cocoa. Reduce until it starts to become denser then strain and set aside.

*For a more in-depth look at the chef, see Close-up 69

O o OO c>n• CRUZ BREAD 1—I MILLEFEUILLE, cn octopus, baked potato with Pimenton de la Vera oil and crsp and aromatic snacks

(IVIilhojas de pan de cruz, pulpo, patata asada con aceite de Pimenton de la Vera y snacks crujientes y aromaticos)

The Pan de Cmz from the province of Place the octopus on a perforated tray Crisp and aromatic snacks Ciudad Real has a compact texture, and bake in a steam oven at 100"C / Use the differeni vegetables to add can be sliced thinly and is excellent 212"F for about 80 minutes (ihe contrasting color and texture. For the toasted. Il is ideal For upgrading one of timing will depend on the oven, so crisp snacks, slice the v-egetables very test with a needle). Cut olf the lips of our restaurant's recipes from 2006, thin using an electric slicer, then fry the tentacles and set aside. Using an twice-cooked octopus wiih baked in oil ai 185°C/365''E potato and Pimenion de la Vera oil, electric slicer, cut the Pan de Cruz de giving il a new look with different Ciudad Real into half-centimeter To serve textures, aromas and flavors. Served in (0.19 in) slices and toast in the oven Stan with a slice of toasted Pan de at 185^ / 365°E Just before serving, mini-ponions, it takes on a new life as Cruz and cover wiih a layer of baked wrap the tentacle lips in kataifi pasta finger food. potato puree. Add another slice of and Fry at 185°C / 365"? until the toast, then a slice of octopus and top pasta is golden brown. SERVES 10 with a final slice of toast. Decorate 1 octopus weighing 2.5 kg / 5 lb 10 oz; 1 PETI the top with the crisp and aromatic Pimentdn de la Vera oil de Cruz de Ciudad Real weighing 115-135 g / snacks. Place the deep-fried tentacles 4-4 1/2 02; 100 9 / 3 1/2 oz kataifi pasta. Gently fry the garlic in oil ensuring in kataifi pasta to one side and the temperature does not go beyond For the Pimenton de la Vera oil: sprinkle with a little pimenton. igO-'C / 302T, then lower to 60°C / 1.51/61/2 cup olive oil; 3 cloves garlic, Cooking time grated; 75 g / 3 oz sweet Piment6n da la Vera 140°F and add the sweet Pimeni6n (a type of ^^anish paprika). de la Vera. Mix to dilute as much as 80 minutes possible, then leave to stand and For the baked potato puree: Preparation time decant the oil into a container, leaving 1.5 kg / 3 lb 5 oz potatoes; Pimenton de la 20 minutes behind any undissolved pimenion. Vera oil. Recommended wine For the crisp snacks: Baked potato puree Sanclodio 2010 (DO Ribeiro), by potato; purple potato; cassava; beetroot: Wrap the potatoes in foil and bake in Bodegas Sanclodio. This very plantain; lotus flower root; olive oil. a dry oven at 185°C / 365°F until pleasant wine, made from For the aromatic snacks: well-cooked (the liming will depend , Godello and other local beetroot leaf; pansies; common ice plant; on size). Peel and mash in a bowl. grape varieties, is the creation of Jose calendula petals. Add ihe Pimenion de la Vera oil to Luis Cuerda, a well-known Spanish color the potato and season with sail. film director and producer In combination with this dish, its simple yet varied aromas and flavors afford a complex result.

71 Julio Restaurant originated as a personal project of Julio Biosca's. That was what persuaded Jose Luis Ungidos to take on the role of chefde cuisine when he was offered it. Less than five years of steady, unostentatious achievement later, it boasts a Michelin star. Juiio Restaurant owes its success to a style of cuisine that is rooted in local tradition, that showcases quality produce, and uses such simple, traditional approaches as long, slow cooking in its ongoing quest for textures and flavors, Unconventional juxtapositions of these sometimes verge on risky, yet the sincerity, directness and depth of commitment that underlie this whole venture have earned the little town of Fontanars dels Alforins (Valencia, eastern Spain) a place on the gastronomic map. Jose Luis Ungidos

Text Almudena Muyo/©ICEX Translation Hawys PritcFiard/eiCEX Photos Tomas Zarza/©IGEX and Toya Legido/©ICEX for the

.VlAV AUGUST 2012 SPAIN GOt.'RMinOUR 73 JOSE LUIS UNGIDOS - JULIO RESTAURANT

It's so quiet! On arriving tn Fonianars Julio Restaurant rose from the long- town that isn't even near anywhere dels Alforins, all you can hear is a established Casa Julio site like a important. To carry this scheme soughing of pine branches and a younger, innovative and more forward while still remaining involved trilling of poplar leaves, and even emancipated relative, going on to win with what was there before is not an these seem muffled. There's cenain a Michelin star yet coexisting in easy feat. Evolving, advancing without logic to a whispered conversation perfect harmony with the conventional severing connections and respecting between trees and breeze, but 1 can'l local color approach adhered to in one's roots is always tricky; it calls for the bar beside it. There is just one quite fathom the whistling that seems determination and, especially, to punctuate the mstling of leaves and wall between them—a physical boundless common sense. branches. I have the distinct feeling of division that differentiates one Julio seems to have managed it: he has having arrived ai an oasis of peace and enterprise from the oiher—^and both created a very spacious, comfortable calm. An oasis whose population (of share the common purpose of and welcoming restaurant, opting lor aboul a thousand) witnessed the celebrating Mediterranean cuisine, iransformaiion back in 2005 of the each in its own way a minimalist decor with lots of wood local bar, Casa JuHo, which had been You need to have plenty of self-belief (the floors and part of the walls). mn by the Biosca Llin family since the and courage, and to have thought Paintwork is white and cream, and 1950s; the business was effectively things through thoroughly if you are windows are large, with blinds that let reinvented and divided into two. The plamiing to change and restmcture a in the light but filter out the sun. The prime mover behind this scheme was segment of your family's business—"a tables—kept to a few, aboul six or Julio Biosca (of the third generation of bar that's been there forever", as the seven—are generously sized and the family) with his sister, Pilar, and locals put it—even though it^ doing placed with enough space between chef, Jose Luis Ungidos. as his very nicely, ihank you. to make room them to allow diners a degree of principal allies. Under their guidance. for a high-end restaurant in a small piivacy while they eat.

74 his luck. "I realized that family ties and Jose Luis arrived about six monihs Teamwork friendships could not be allowed to after the transformation and I gather He then had to find the personnel to prevail over professional connections. from clues that he, too, was affected match. Julio persuaded Jose Luis That's why I opted to come to by the pervasive silence that simck Ungidos to take command of the Fontanars, a towm that I was me so forcibly on my arrival. His kitchen. "We had met in Bilbao constantly having to ask Julio to experience had cleariy been tinged (northern Spain) when I was working pinpoint for me on the map, and join with melancholy: "Although I as chef in Zoriziko (one Michelin this very personal project—Julio's couldn't have been made to feel more star)," explains Ungido. "Julio was project. Basically it was so chat I could welcome, and although 1 was there for about three mondis' training, work with him. In the course of the thoroughly involved in things right and we got on well. He told me even many conversations we'd had, I from the start, I still remember feeling then that he had a scheme to turn realized that he liked the same things dreadfully lonely at night." He pan of the family business into a top­ that I liked and that he understood gradually got used lo it. Meanwhile, flight restaurant. A few months later, my cooking completely. 1 came to the he vvas enjo)ing completely free vvhen he heard that I vvas intending to conclusion that Julio, who has since creative rein: "From the very first day, leave Zortziko, he called me up right become the restaurant's sommelier and Julio made it clear that the kitchen away; we talked and talked, and he maitre d', would be able to was my responsibility and that the convinced me." communicate the point of my cooking decisions to be made were mine. And A decision to seek fresh experience with complete accuracy, and that made he has stuck to that punctiliously. had led him first of all to consider me feel very much at ease. I knew that, However, I personally like to discuss returning to his native Caniabria or, as well as fulfilling his fronl-of-house a new dish before adding it to the if that were to prove impossible, to role, he could help me improve my menu, so decisions aren't always head for one of the big cities and tr>' skills. And so it has turned out." made solely by me." This familiar

75 JOSE LUIS UNGIDOS - JUtIO RESTAURANT O cn OO

approach, combined with a need to repertoire, with a nod in the direction "soupy" (caldoso in Spanish) ricedish , know that those around him are of the traditional reputation very much in the local style, is made comfortable, has surely been a key established by the family business. with artichoke stalks and oiher element in building a team that makes "When I arrived, I said to myself vegetables and served vvith crispy ever)i;hing run like clockwork. 'We're in Valencia, so part of the chunks of pig's trotter, pork cheek menu must be devoted to rice dishes.' and ribs in the center of the plate. First steps I duly put a rice dish on the menu This accentuates the overall flavor of and cooked it in my usual way... 1 the dish and to some extent Jose Luis Ungidos was born in think it lasted four or five days. determines how you eai it: the meaty Cantabria and he also did his training Everyone assured me thai it was central element pulls together the there and in , San Sebastian delicious, but vvhen I tasted the rice other ingredients so that, in effect, the and Bilbao (all in northem Spain). It dishes made by Pilar, Julio's mother, it dish becomes a sticky rice experience is astonishing, therefore, that he has was blindingly obvious that mine just raiher than a soupy one. It is a good found a way of expressing his culinan,' wouldn't do. There were no two ways example of his overall modus operandi: talent while adjusting lo the tastes about it: I told them that either we he takes a classic dish and studies it and traditions of an area so distant removed my rice dish from the menu with a view to developing it further, from his home patch and, even so, or I simply wouldn't cook. I just in both presentation and flavor producing dishes in his own couldn't countenance a situation idendfiable style. The fact that Casa where the bar next door was serving Julio has always been known for up excellent rice dishes while the one Up-to-the-minute serving good fish, despite its location on the restaurant menu didn't taste and market-led in inland Valencia, must have worked anywhere as good!" in his favor Jose Luis relates that Guided by Julio's mother, he ,A.dmitting that he finds his own "Julio's father used to set off for the determinedly set about mastering cooking very difficult to define, Jose nearby towm of Fuente la Higuera, rice. One of the dishes he created in Luis declares it to be "traditional which vvas a stopping place for tracks the process is Arros amb pencft^es (Rice cooker)' that is market- and product- en route to Madrid (central Spain) with artichoke stalks, see recipe page led and given modern touches by the laden with fish bought at quayside 55), which has won itself a place on use of certain techniques." The aim is auctions. He used to stock up on fresh the restaurant's iMenti Cldsico. This obvious: "We want people to come to fish bought from them. When that couldn't be done, he'd go to the market in Valencia or the quayside auction at Santa Pola to buy it; though not a long journey in terms of distance, it took a very long time because transport links were so poor in those days." This also explains the paradox ihai Ungidos discovered vvhen he arrived at Fontanars: "People from Valencia and Alicante used to come here to eat prawns from Santa Pola!" With this precedent as an example, Jose Luis set about identifying the traits that characterize the local cuisine, going back to its roots with a view to devising a menu that was a composite of his ideas and the local

77 JOSE LUIS UNGIDOS - JULIO RESTAURANT

the restaurant, eat the food and retain country such as this, fresh fmii and in the course of the year The a memor)' of its flavors."Product s and vegetables of all kinds are supplied restaurant offers three menus: a raw materials are prej^ared and put by the region's farmers. The Hervido gastronomic one, which showcases logether in ways thai make the most of de verduras al dente con caldo Jos^ Luis' latest creations; a classic their flavor And how is that done? By cmulsioncidt) con aceite de oliva virgen one, consisring of a selection of the sourcing their supplies from local extra y citronela (Melissa officinalis) restaurant's signature dishes; and a farms. "We watch the j^roduce growing (Al dente boiled vegetables in broth short tasting menu, which provides and being harvested," Ungidos as.sLires emulsified with extra virgin olive oil a whistle-stop tour of its cuisine in me, and they're also willing lo go and lemon balm) is fabulous. The general. All three are governed by wherever necessary to get the very vegetables are cooked to perfection what is available in the market at best, whetiier it's to the quayside and the basic broth is mild, gaining the moment and are consistently auction at Santa Poia (a regular in flavor in the mouth. This aromatic free of superficial frills and trendy pilgrimage destination) or to Granada dish starts off modestly in the flavor products. Indeed, the repertoire at (southern Spain) for sturgeon. stakes, builds up gradually and Julio Restaurant is a tribute to the Our meal arrives and we see the opens up on the palate where all iis products and foodways of its theory in action from the first course ingredients are identifiable, before natural surroundings. on. The delicious crema de calabaza being replaced by a pleasant, fresh, Making changes to the menu turns out to be quite a discursive business. (creamed ]3umpkin/squash soup)— cilms aftertasie. By a stroke of luck, a new dish is smooth, very subtly flavored and The restaurant buys its fish and aboul to be launched while I'm there, lovely on the palate—is made with seafood at quayside auction sales, lis so I am able to lake part in the pumpkin growm on unirrigaied land version oFfideud (a traditional decision-making process insofar as 1 by a fanner in ihe village, transformed Spanish dish, similar to paella but made with noodles rattier dian rice) get to taste it before its first by the chef's skill and further has become a classic: Fideud dc appearance in the dining room. Jose enhanced by Julio's resume of the dish calamares y marisco con gamha roja, y Luis succinctly explains the work that (which heighiens anricipation), hdado de calamar (Squid and seafood has gone into it so far: "With spring delivered at the table. fideud with red pravvns and squid ink on the way, we need to make a couple Special men lion must also go to the ice cream) is made using fine noodles, of changes to the gastronomic menu. Hamhiigucsa dc sepia con chips de and tastes intensely of the sea (thanks We have some superb quality ociopus verdura (Cuttlefish burger with to the Santa Pola red prawms). The ice at the moment (octopus is served vegetable chips). Part of ihe repertoire cream, used judiciously, contributes regularly in the bar), so we've decided for the past seven years (plenty of lime to a clever interplay of textures— that the new dish should be octopus- for fine-tuning), this dish is by now gooey noodles, creamy ice cream, based. Hot or cold? We've gone for one of ihe testaurant's established fleshy prawns—^without in any way cold, given the time of year when it classics. Impeccably cranchy in diluting or distracting from the will Feature on the menu, and it will texture and with a mild cuttlefish overall flavor. also make things easier For the kitchen flavor, the "burger" is sandwiched staff. A cold octopus dish sounds between two buns that incorporate the complicated in theory-, but then we cuttlefish ink, and served with freshly- Prime material rules thought of salpicdn (seafood salad) and made beetroot, purple potato, plantain Prime material, or "product", is decided lo go ahead. First we pressure and potato chips. This dish looks accorded such importance al Julio cooked the octopus and retained the stunning and tastes as good as it looks. Restaurant that it shapes the menu cooking liquid- That turned out to be As one would hope in a part of the and governs any changes made to it very strongly flavored, which made us

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rethink the concept of a cold dish and intriguing dish in which the brolh jjhilosophy U is a chocolate dessert start to consider hot ones. I've alvva)'s provides continuity and accentuates which reflects the changes wroughi in cooked octopus with potato and apple, the overall flavor. Meanwhile, each the vineyards (characteristic of this so I added those to the ingredients we mouthful is subily different from the area) and farmland by the passing of already had, plus broad beans, red one liefore—slightly more bilLer, the seasons. We are served a whole pepper, land seaweed, the cooking slightly more acidic, slightly saltier— set of different chocolates, liquid and the octopus." as if its individual components are representing a vine shoot in winter Before making the final decision, Jose making their presence felt. Now all I surrounded by eardi and Luis and Julio have been considering need to do is compare and contrast accompanied bv- a yoghurt mousse (a the quantity and variety of vegetables this version with the (.lefmiiive one reference lo the moon, which can be that this dish will require, and have they actually put on the menu. seen splendidly From Fontanars) to tested differeni options, given that, cleanse and refresh the palate after according lo julio: "Jose Luis includes Restaurant with soul a lot of greenery, which complicates each mouthful. things laier when you need to match A visit to Julio Restaurant leaves one And that's the story so far. There are a wine wiih the dish." These are the with the Feeling that it has "soul"; a Further schemes afoot: they have just moments when the symbiosis very definite personality whose traits opened a hotel in the country, Santa between the two oF ihem really shows; derive from the fact that it is a Elena, one of whose purposes is to personal project that is lent weight by each is prepared to make a concession channel more customers to the its family background and backing. in his area of responsibility to produce restaurant. an end result—the perfect balance Though Jose Luis Ungidos joined the between food and wine—that is to the team as a newcomer, it now seems as Abnm&ena Muyo worked far more than diner's fcienefll. if he's always been there, contributing twelve years as a journalist specializing "We tried several options," continues his strengths and a new vitality in the in international trade before taking up Ungidos, "and decided to go for an form of an approach to cooking that is octopus soup, with a saute of broad based on an appreciation of flavors. her current post as editoriai co- beans, potatoes and apples, and a touch The team knows what it's doing and coordinator of Spain Goumietour of red pepper and land seaweed. To has tremendous faith in the project appreciate the Full beauty of this dish, and a commitment to getting things JUUO RESTAURANT our wine recommendation is a right. This extends to both food and Conde de Sal vat terra 9 Sanclodio 2010 (DO Ribeiro), hy wine, and there is plenty of evidence Fontanars dels Alforins (Valencia) Bodegas Sanclodio." ii; |i.ii[ird-up thinking beiween kitchen Tel: (+34) 962 222 238 and dining room and vice versa, vviih I now have the aforementioned octopus www.julioresiaurant.es (Catalan, impeccable service throughout. soup in front of me, well presented and English, French, Spanish) The plan at Julio Restaurant is to carry pleasing to the e)'e. The broth that [email protected] completes the dish is served at the table on growing, continuing their quest for and brings with it an unmistakable textures and flavors while remaining For detailed information aboul whiFf of the sea. Julio explains to me trae to the culinar)' traditions and that the (Granny Smith) apple has been natural environment of iheir chosen Spanish chefs, visit our website cooked at a low temperature, which patch. With all this in mind, they have www.foodsfromspain.com and click causes its texture to become syrupy commissioned artisan pStissier on Chefs &r Training. while retaining its characteristic acidity Francisco Mora to create a dish that It proves to be a nicely structured. encapsulates the restaurant's

79 A HARVEST of Salt from the Canaries A volcanic landscape bathed by the clear waters of the Atlantic at the southernmost tip of the Canary Island of La Palma, all of it declared a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. This is the source of one of the Canaries' most enticing gourmet products: hand-harvested sea salt and flor de sal from Salinas de Fuencaliente

0^ 2r

80 MAY-AUGUST 2012 SPAIN CK3URMETOUR TEXT RODRIGO GARCIA FERNANDEZ/©ICEX

TRANSLATION JENNY MCDONALD/eiCEX

PHOTOS PABLO NEUSTADT/©ICEX

As the plane flies towards the island that never leaves his lips. The "tofl" of La Palma in the Canaries, travelers he has had lo pay has been tough are enchanted as some of the island's decision-making, a lot of hard work main features appear: leafy banana making his artisan flor de sal knovvm plantations along the coast, narrow and a fight to break dowm the roads with little traffic, and small barriers that make exporting from an villages nestling on the mountain island e.xpensive and logistically slopes. And, on landing, the main complicated. "We're only too aware impression, strangely, is that life here of the problems, but the quality of is lived at a slower pace than our products—flor de sal and virgin elsewhere. sea salt, whose secrets lie in the soil, This island, the third largest in the the water and the air that surround Canary archipelago, has two very us—helps us resolve them all." distinct faces. The north is Andres knows what he is doing. He inundated with shades of green, with devotes his lime to managing a lush vegetation watered by many company with up to 20 workers, springs. The south is unmistakably exploring new markets and setting volcanic. From the top of the San up marketing projects. Bul he is also Canaries and to start exporting to Antonio and Teneguia volcanoes, perfectly capable of donning his ihe view is unique: lo one side is the competitive markets of rubber boots and overalls and the crater lefi behind by the latest Germany and the UK. getting into the ponds to skim off the eruptions and, to the other the flor de sal with a sort of sieve, south coast and the infinity of Third generation ensuring the produci is not damaged the ocean, with the islands of El during harvesting. "You can never The Fuencaliente saltworks dale Hierro and La Gomera jusl before tell vvhen the thin layer of salt back to 1967, when our host's the eye reaches the smooth line crystals is going to form on the grandfather discovered the ideal of the horizon. surface of the ponds. It depends on conditions in this spot for Starting out From these volcanoes the moisture and the light during the producing salt. He had seen and their inieresting interpretation last few days of the cycle. So if ihe saltworks on other islands and center, I took one of the trekking layer forms on the weekend and ihe sought the advice of experts before routes dowTi to the Fuencalienie workers are not expected until setring up a small business in this saltworks (salirios in Spanish) at the Monday, then it's up lo me to collect privileged location. His son southernmost lip of the island. There the flor de sal." Fernando foOowed in his footsteps, 1 met Andres Hernandez, a young and Andres is now the third entrepreneur from La Palma vvho generation to have fallen under the had no doubts aboul returning to the Canary island salt island to take charge of the family spell of this edible mineral. So how is this exquisite condiment, business after completing his studies "I always knew my future would be flor de sal, formed (Spain Gourmetour in Business Administration and determined by the saltworks," states No. 76)? It lakes just three Managemeni at the University of La this young islander "We used to ingredienis from nature: sunlighl, Laguna in Tenerife. His enthusiasm spend the summers in a small house relativ'e moisture in ihe air and wind. and determination to achieve only actually inside the saltworks, and Whai makes things more the ver)' best qualily have allowed the sunsets and sunrises I complicated is getting them in the him to successfully sell sea salt and experienced here must have left right proportions. Plenty of hours of flor de sal in food stores in the their mark," he lells us with a smile sunlight are needed, with low levels

MAY-.VUGL:ST 2012 SPAIN GOCRMETOUR 81 SALINAS DE FUENCALIENTE

of moisture and just a gentle sea breeze to produce irregular flor de Hand har\/esting sal crystals on the surface of the Andres lells ine his business ponds. This process is very different belongs to the European Federation to that of common sea salt, which is of Producers of Hand-Harvested Sea formed by evaporating the water Salt, an international network that and precipitating the salt to the aims to preserve this type of bottom of the pan. traditional operarion. He also Once this layer has formed, the flor explains that it was only towards de sal is collected and packed by the end of 2011 that the Spanish hand. The artisan nature of this Ministry of the Environment and gourmet produci is shared by Rural and Marine Affairs passed another, also made at the regulations for the sale of traditionally-produced, hand- Fuencaliente saltworks, namely, harvested sea salt having a sodium Tencguia sea salt. Afier being chloride content below the figure collected, this fine salt is milled, under previous legislation. "AH this dried and packed without any sort is helping us and giving us energy of chemical processing to ensure to defend our virgin sea salt and that its organoleptic and mineral fior de sal in Spani.sh and qualities are not altered. European markets." The artisan production and natural As we visit the saltworks, protected origin of these two products are two since 1994 as a Site of Scientific of their main distinguishing Interest with its wetlands rich in characteristics. There is only one flora and fauna, Andres describes other similar saltworks in the the projects he is currently working Canaries (at Janubio, on the island on. "In early 2012, we began to of Lanzarote), but its production build an interpretation center for and sales are well below those of the saltworks where visitors can Fuencaliente. Andres mentions a learn about this ecosystem, its value key facl reflecting the huge effort he as a natural process and the is making to keep this small-scale sustainable cultivation of sea salt process in operation. "In the middle and flor de sal. We will also have a of the last century, there were over restaurant offering Canary cuisine 50 similar saltworks in the and focusing on foods and wines Canaries. Today, there are just two, from La Palma and from the other and we are the only ones really islands." All of this amounts to an looking towards ihe future and ambitious project, considering thai working on exports." the company has a staff of just

82 OO cn

OO cn cn a t=4 seven, including, as Andres confides A gourmet touch produci on the commercial circuit. to us, "three vvho have been with us Things have not been easy for Andres for over 20 years. They're like part The flor de sal grown and manually and his family least of all when the of the family" harvested in these saltworks is on nearby Tenegitia volcano empted in Today travelers and trekkers in the offer in many restaurants in La 1971, spurting out lava which all but south of the island can reach the Palma and the other Canary Islands, reached the lighthouse at the edge of Fuencaltente saltworks on foot, enter some of which are part of the the saltworks, But today they have a the area of the ponds and hear in revolution in Canary cuisine. One promising future, marked by the situ about the process of producing example is Humboldl restaurant in cnn-eprencimal zeal oi .\ndre> at id lib the virgin sea salt and flor de sal. the in Tenerife, intention to take this 100% La Palma And, of course, the products are led by a great advocate of the produci Lo all lovers of good food. available for them to buy. In fact, islands' produce. Pedro i^odriguez these direci sales to German, French Dios (Spciin Gourmetour No. 81), Rodrigo Garcia Femdndez is a and British travelers are "the first One of his interesting creations is journalist and editorial coordinator of hnk in the company's export chain", Sorbete de mango con yo^r de cabra, ihc ICEX gaslronomy portal, according to its manager "These viruias de almendra palmeray www.foodsfromspain.com. tourists are the people that take our pimientas del mundo (Mango sorbet products back home, where they with goats' milk yoghurt. La Palma then serve as opinion leaders and almond flakes and peppers), which product advisors." includes, among other Canary Salinas Sustainable, ecological, top-quality products, nor de sal from Sahnas production is what Salinas de de Fuencaliente. The chef describes cje Fuencaliente Fuencaliente has to offer meeting hts dish as follows: "li represents the needs of demanding markets part of the essence of the Canaries, Workforce: 7 people such as Germany, where they have a with spicy, balsamic, sweet and milky touches. It's an essentially Annual produciion: 600 tons of salt, distributor, Herbaria, which sells its of which 5 are flor de sal and the rest products in a chain of organic food Canary dish because it includes virgin sea salt stores that exiends all over the the magnificent almonds grown Surface area: country One of the company's on the island of La Palma, and we 35.000 square meters strategies for attracting customers bring out their flavor by {376,736 square feet) (and keeping them) in Germany is to combining them with the Sahnas Export quota: 15% encourage visits to the saltworks. de Fuencatiente flor de sal. And Main export markets: Austria. the Canary Islands are among Germany and the United Kingdom "We have managed to acquire some Products: Teneguia virgin sea salt faithful customers in Germany by Spain's main producers of goats' and Fuencaliente saltworks flor de sal organizing personalized visits here so milk, so the leading roie in this dish Contact details; that they can see for themselves how is shared by goats' milk yoghurt." Maldonado, 10 the whole process is done by band After a history of aboul 50 years, 38700 Santa Cruz de La Palma Salinas de Fuencaliente tias been able Canary Islands and, at the same time, appreciate our Tel. (+34) 922 411 523 unique cultural, natural and to preserve a traditional, ecological Fax (+34) 922 696 002 ethnographic landscape." activity while introducing a goumiet www.sallnasdefuencaltente.com

83 MEXICORodolf o Have a Spanish Gerschman from Mexico Break Photos Text Jaleo Rodolfo Gerschman/©ICEX City Traslationt Hawys Pritchard/©ICEX

Emilio Castelar Park in Mexico City's well-to-do Polanco quaner is sldned by a street of the same name whose great Sweep of cafe terraces, around four in the aftemoon, presents a scene worthy of Madrid or Barcelona. Mexicans like to have lunch between 2 and 3 pm and, having eaten, segue into the venerable custom of relaxed post-prandial convei^adon and people-watcFiing known as the sobremesa. The custom seems lo thrive panicularly among the regulars at Jaleo, a little tapas and pintxo restaurant whose paper tablecloths are hand-emblazoned with the house logo by a waiter armed vvith a giant mbber stamp, which he wields vviih enviable verve. Jaleo is doing well. Today, all 24 places on the outdoor terrace are occupied at sobremesa time and the indoor restaurant is also full to capacity The customers behavT as they would in a bar Oaleo doesn't have one. incidentally), getiini; ;n-)i^L ::;e;r ^abh^^ [o fiic^t friends and chatting for a while before returning to cany on eating. During the time I spent talking lo Jaleo's Spanish clief, Pedro Martin, and hb business parmer, Catalan-bom Coia Sola, v^arious habitues came up to offer their compliments and hold forth about lapas and allied subjects. A native of La Palma in the Canary Islands, Pedro Manin has been in Mexico for six years now. His C\' includes expetience in Madrid (El Cenador de Salvador and the Silken

84 MAY-AUGUST lOll S?.\K GOL RMETOL R Puerta America Hotels in-house business," he declares emphatically, "and cooked further in an onion-based sauce) restaurant, Ugrimas Negras) and in San the whole objeciive has always been lo tias its sauce enriched with pimentdn (a Sebastian, where he worked witlr Martin showcase our cuisine." And customers type of paprika from Spain) and is Berasaiegui and, later, at Arzak. The got the point that this was food of a served with clams rather than the move to Mexico came out of the blue; it whole different category. The locale itself Castilian original's traditional cockles, happened at a Lime when Juan Mari can claim some of the credit: "Jaleo is which aren't available here. We also do Arzak was involved in an advisory small, noisy and crowded, and people ajoblanco, the Andalusian chilled soup capacity with Tezka (his Basque like it that way. It's all pan of its appeal.'' made by emulsifying blanched almonds restaurant in Mexico City), whose chefs Getting the ingredienis right is one their with garlic, olive oil and a slosh of Bmno Oteiza and Mike I Alonso were key principles. "V/e never stint on the vinegar, wliich we sen'e with about to leave to set up a restaurant of products we use, or on sourcing them, grapes and figs. Then there's the less their own. from no matter how far afield." Many specifically regional pintxo de lomo de His solution was lo send Pedro to take (such as albacore tuna from Ensenada) ccrdo bianco, a skewer of top-quality over Tezka, which he made verv' much are Mexican, while others (canned bonito pork loin that has been vacuum his own with a distinctive style of del nortc, salt cod, baby broad beans and marinated with svveet and hot cuisine clearly inspired by his Canary asparagus from Navarre, piquillo iM men ton, olive oil and raw garlic." At Island origins. Not long after, he and peppers.,.) are brought in from Spain. the momeni, Jaleo"5 tiny kitchen Coia (who is from Catalonia, though she The US is also an acknowledged source: produces a repertoire of over 70 has been in Mexico for ten years now) patatas bravas (chunks of Fried potato different dishes-in-miniature, each of made the decision to go into business dressed with a piquant tomato sauce) which Pedro Martin describes v/ith together Her original career choice, made with Idaho potatoes are quite mouthwatering enthusiasm. Meanwhile, banking, had mmed out to be a dilferent from any other kind. The wine as dish after dish appears on die table mistake, as liad a Scandinavian list, made up entirely of Spanish wines, before us, the Food proves to have an restaurant venture. Meeung Pedro is as fresh in its approach as ever>'ihing eloquence all its own. enabled her to reassess the way forward else. Brief but well-chosen, it features and to confess (including to herselt) the products of 15 DOs among its Jaleo Bar de Tapas how much she liked the idea of running selection of 40 wines, ten of which are Emilio Castelar 121, local I a tapas bar. ,i\\;;l.;'-'ic; by liic t;::is-. Polanco, Chapultepec, 11560 The partners set up Jaleo with the full "It was heav7 going at first trying to get Mexico DP knowledge that Mexico City was a people to understand what our food was Mexico veritable elephant's graveyard of Failed all about," admits Pedio. "We kept wv^fw. jaleo. rax tapas bars. "Mexicans love tacos (wheat getting asked for basic things like or com fktbreads rolled round a croquetas. But boih our approach and Rodolfo Gerschman, who ori^nally hails filling)." explains Pedro. "Given the our customers' taste have developed from Mexico, is the editor of Gula and choice of a taco at 15 pesos or a tapa at since then. Our dishes originate from all Qitadores magazines and writes a wine 50, there'd be no contest." The key to over Spain: for example, our version of column in Buena Mesa, the weekly food Jaleo^ success has been the food ii offers papas a la importanda (egg and flour- and wine supplement o/Refomia Its customers. "Ours is a chef-centered dipped potato slices fried and then newspaper:

MAV-AUGi;5T 2012 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 85 B00K5

Text TAPAS Samara Classic Small Dishes (mm Spam Kamenecka/©ICEX

MoVida Cocina Tapas. Small Classic El Willy. Dishes from Spain Three Years by Frank Camorra, Richard in China Cornish. English. The dynamic (Pequetios plaios cldsicos de duo comprising Australian Espafia) by Elisabeth Luard. (Tres aftos en China) by Willy food writer Richard Cornish English. Luard is a and Nasi. English. Willy and Spanish restaurant distinguished food writer, Trullas Moreno is a naiive entrepreneur and chef Frank broadcaster and journalist and, Spanish chef making waves t^morra cannot be stopped. let's face it, a woman with on China's gastronomy scene. The franchise has won over excellent taste. This text He is the man behind el Australians, and ihis lexi, their features tapas, which she Willy, one of Shanghai's third cookbook, further puts a describes as "beautifully hippest restaurants, and a bar spotlight on the dishes and simple, lantalizingly delicious called el Cdciel, another people behind the successful and easy to prepare." Her venture in Htmg Kong. This brand. Camorra shares all the recipes are organized into tnily unique book is divided special tricks and techniques several chapters: basics; salads into two parts. In ihe first he uses at MoVida and and cold dishes; vegetables; part, entitled "The Sexy discusses his trajectory, from fish, prawiTs, shrim]3 and Chef, Willy gives the back the first venture on Hosier shellfish; meal; chicken and story, documented with Lane to his latest restaurant, game; and croquettes, pasties personal photos, much like a Pulpo. The 70 recipes are and pies. Each section begins scrapbook or a diary. It is a organized into sections with an iniroduciion to the very fun read. In the second including everything From food group, followed by to- pan, "The Sexy Recipes", breakfast, sub sandwiches and the-point recipes. Highlights Willy dishes on the dishes salads to rices and desserts. include tripe and cliili with that have made him famous, These include Chonzo-filled chickpeas, artichoke omelet, >uclj L;r;ll!ja MLUILH L1:;:I;-, fried poiato bombs with spiq^ beetroot salad, pork medallions with garlic and chili and sauce, Soupy ricevvit h lamb with lemon and marjoram, Catalan-style cod with ribs and fjeas, and Slow- tuna croquettes, and tomaio, onion and olives. cooked egg vvith broad beans, cinnamon-spiced oxtail soup. This is truly one sexy Iberico ham and truffle, in It also includes countless tips cookbook which brings food shon. the book shows how on how to organize your tapas and fun together on every MoVida has secured a place for extravaganza, depending on single page. lapas on Australia's culinary the season, on the special food (d Willy Ud, scene. (Murdoch Books Pty Ud, needs of your guests, and www. el-wi !i!y. com). www.mu rdochbooks. com. au). much more. (Grub Street, www.grubst reel.co.uk).

86 MAY-AUGUST 2012 SPAIN GOL'RMEIOUR C tl [ t 0 K t i Vin O

.A,

Akelare Rias Baixas. Gula del turismo Guia del turismo del Territorio gastronomico vino en Espana, by Pedro Subijana. English, gastronomico en Espana, 2012 2012 Euskara, Spanish. This is top chef Pedro Subijana's new (Rias Baixas. Gourmet (2012 Gastronomy Tourism (2012 Wine Tourism Guide book about his restaurant Territory) by Manuel Gago Guide to Spain). Various to Spain). Various authors. Akelarre, which boasts 3 and Jorge GuitiSn. English. authors. Spanish. What better Spanish. This text, dubbed Michclin stars and has been Spanish. Come on a journey guide to Spain than one that the "vvine tourism bible", referred to as "a temple of through Rias Baixas (Galicia, maps out the countr)'^ best now in ils 8* edition, is the international gastronomy". northwest Spain), "where sea gastronomic itineraries? This best way to di.scover the The book brings to lite the and land merge in a sinuous boasts tnore than 50 routes country's countless gems in magic that is Akelarre, dance, creating a unique nationwide, complete with thf W!>rld of wine, (.''iiiiiiiizod focusing on its most habitat." The 26 recipes (and up-to-date maps. The by Spanish region, with data distinguishing features, their photos) contributed by introduction provides an on all the DOs, the mosl excellence and innovaiion. the chefs, including Xose T. overview of the country's commonly used grapes, wine This highly visual text pays Cannas (Pepe Vieira gastronomic landscape. Then producrion methods, and homage to Akelarre's most restaurant, in Poio), Pablo the guide is broken into much more, this text will outstanding dishes over the Romero (Alto e Aceile, in regions, each of which take you to any of the last decade, such as Pontevedra), Antonio Botana features several suggestions. hundreds of beautiful and Charcoal-grilled lamb with (Pandemonium, in !n .Andalusia, routes iiiLiuJu less well-known places wine sediment; Boned lamb's Cambados) to name but a olive oil, ham, and monastery around ihc nation (and, of tail with cauliliower, leek, few. are tmly spectacular: sweets. The Canary' Islands course, fatnous sites loo), and carrot and beetroot macaroni; Confii of salt cod with green have a cheese route, as does show you some of the most Peach Ilowcr; Edible aromas onion and creamed Asturias, which also has a breathtaking wine landscapes ot port; and Liquid fruil caulitlower; Galician-siyle cider route. Black truffles and you've ever seen. The book ravioli with apple soup. It octopus with a crispy San ham can be followed in comes with complete also includes a DVD with a Simon cheese biscuit; or Aragdn, roast suckling pig in information about hoteb, master class on special Cockles on a bed of Devon Castile-Leon, cherries in restaurants, wineries, cooking techniques, from one crab sousing sauce and an Extremadura, and specialized stores and current of the founding lathers of emulsion of fresh asparagus. strawberries in Madrid liich maps, and ihe introduction New Basque Cuisine himself, All in all a delicious look at route starts with an includes wine vocabulary and which you can watch Irom Galicia and its cuisine. Not iniroducLion to the food, details about wine tastings, the comfort of your own for nothing did this text tollowcd by extensive detail of wine and health, and wine home. receive the "Best in the the related sights, specialized fairs and festivals. World" Gourmand Cookbook restaunmis and shops, (Crupo Anaya. S.A., (Editorial Everest, Award in the "Best Local re.stauranis and hotels. w w w. an«y£i (ou ri ng. com). mvw.evcrest.es). Cuisine" category (Crupo Anaya, S.A., (Ponlevedra Provindal Council, www. anayalou ring.com). w w vv. d cpon ievedra.es).

MAV-AUOUST 2in2 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 87 don't know why I like it, but I like it.

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90 MAY.AUGL-ST 2012 SPAIN GOURMFrni.'R Spanish Olives a popular choice for consumers around the globe !

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coRen etpozo ^C^'^*"^*-"- CCOIKOA Verdejo p. 67 Toya Legido/©ICEX Cover pp. 68-71 Toya Legido and Toya Legido/©lCEX pp. 32-33 Juan Manuel Tomas Zar:a/®1CEX San2/©1CEX p. 34 Piedad Sancho- Contents Mata/©1CEX Jose Luis p. 2 Amador Toril/©ICEX pp. 35-41 top Juan Manuel Ungidos p. 3 Amador Toril/®ICEX; Sanz©BELONDRADE S.U pp. 72-79 Toya Legido and Toya Legido/©lCEX; Matias bottom Juan Manuel Tomas Zar2a/®ICEX Costa/eiCEX Sanz/©ICEX Salinas de Spanish Breakfas Rice pp. 8-9 Toya Legido/®ICEX p. 42 .-\mador Toril/®lCEX Fuencaliente pp. 10-11 Toya Legido/®ICEX; p. 43 Anke van Wijck/®ICEX pp. 80-83 Pablo Nelson Souto/©ICEX pp. 44-45 .•\mador Neustadt/©1CEX p. 12 Toya Lcgido/®ICEX Tonl/©ICEX p. 13 Piedad Sancho- p. 46 Fernando Rodolfo Mata/©ICEX Briones/©lCE.X; Amador Toril/©ICEX p. 14 Toya Legido/©lCEX; Gerschman from p. 47 Ankc van Wijck/©ICEX, Juan Manuel Sanz/©ICEX Mexico City p. 15 Amador Tonl/©ICEX Map: Javier Belloso p. 48 ,'Vnke van Wijck/©1CEX; pp. 84-85 Jaleo p. 16 Fernando Amador Toril/®ICEX Madariaga/©1CEX; Toya p. 49 Ankc van Wijck/®1CEX; Legido/© ICEX Amador Toril/©ICEX p. 17 Fernando p. 50 Fernando Bnones/©ICEX Madariaga/©ICEX p. 51 Fernando p. 18 Tomas Zarza/®ICE\; Briones/®lCEX; Amador Fernando Madariaga/®1CEX Toril/©lCEX p. 19 Toya Legido/®ICEX pp. 52-57 Toya Lcgido and Tom4s Zarza/®ICEX DOCa Piiorat Bread p. 20 Maifas Costa/®ICEX pp. 58-63 Amador p. 21 Juan Manuel Toril/®ICEX Sanz/©ICEX p. 64 Amador Toril/®lCEX; p. 22 Matias Cosia/©ICEX Map: Ja\ner Belloso p. 23 Juan Manuel pp. 65-66 Amador San2/©ICEX Toril/®ICEX pp. 24-31 Matias Costa/®ICEX

96 NWY-AUGUST 2012 SPAIN GOURMirroUR I ATK.WIIllilN OI.IVKOIl. II(IIU:D'OI.IV». MKK<;KE'-\TKI

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