Assembling a 14th Century Soft Kit

Maestra Sarai Tindall Sogliano [email protected] https://clothingthepast.wordpress.com/ Who, Where, & When Decide on a time range within the Decide on a country (This class Decide on a social class 14th century focuses on Western Europe) 1) Serving class (This is more 1) Early 1300-1340 1) British Isles (England, like outdoor servants, 2) Mid 1340-1370 Scotland, Wales, & Ireland) grooms, gardeners, etc.) 3) Late 1370-1400 2) France 2) Craftsmen/women, 3) Germany Yoemen (indoor servants) 4) Italy 3) Merchants (Income level 5) Spain can vary wildly based on country and what they are selling. Including import merchants, Full Guild members, second hand clothing sellers, etc.) 4) Low nobility 5) High nobility What

Men’s (Male) clothing Women’s (Female) clothing Accessories 1) Shirt/Smock 1) Shift/Smock/Chemise/Cami 1) Hoods 2) Braies ca 2) Hats 3) Hosen/Calze (Split hosen 2) Hosen/Calze (Typically 3) Caps/Coifs were used by the upper and assumed to be about knee 4) Veils/Whimples lower classes until the late height, but there is limited 5) Gloves 14th-century when joined visual evidence.) 6) Belts hosen started appearing on 3) Gown/Cotehardie/Vestito/ 7) Bags images of upper class men.) Gonnella (Sometimes also 8) Shoes 4) Cotehardie/Pourpoint/Zupa referred to as a Gothic 9) Pattens rello/Doublet/Vestito (Main Fitted Dress (GFD) in 10) Jewelry body garment.) modern writings as it can 5) Cote/Houppelande/Pellanda often be used for bust (Over garment, like a support.) modern coat.) 4) Over gown/Cote/Houppelande/P ellanda/Cipriana/Guarnacca (Over garment, like a modern coat.) Garment Pieces - Men

Hood, Tunic, Hood, Cotehardie, Hat, Zuparello, Braies, & Hosen Tunic, Smock, Camice, Braies, & Braies, & Hosen Calze Garment Pieces - Women

Hood, Smock, Camica, Vestito, Camica, Vestito, Cotehardie, & & Veil & Cipriana Coif Garment Colors

As can be seen from this photo taken at the Schützenfest Hinterweidenthal, an international multi- group private 15th century meet-up in Germany, many colors are achievable with natural dyes and were worn during the middle ages. So have fun and wear your favorite colours! Early to Mid 14th-century English Working Class

The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130

Early 14th century working class clothes appropriate for most Western European countries. (All garments made by Sgt. Roberto some Spanish). Early to Mid 14th-century English Middle Class

The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130

Early to mid 14th century working and middle class English clothing. Each garment was made by the person wearing it (L-R Lady Cassandra Martel, Lady Avelyn atte Wode, and Lady Kinna Blackheath). Mid to Late 14th-century French & Spanish

Romance of Alexander, Garment created based Mid 14th century Polo, Marco, Bodleian on images from the middle class Spanish Library MS. Bodl. 264, Romance of Alexander men’s cotehardie (made c1338–1410, f109v by Master Derian la by Sgt. Roberto some Breton. Spanish). Early to Mid 14th-century Italian

Fresco by Paolo Veneziano Fresco, Giottino Pieta 1333-1358 di San Remigio, by Uffizien Florenz, c. 1360-65 Late 14th-century Italian Middle Class

Tacuinum Sanitatis. BnF, Nouvelle Tacuinum Sanitatis. Middle class acquisition latine 1673, fol. 31, Récolte BnF, Nouvelle gown based on du persil acquisition latine the images from 1673, fol. 79, the Tacuinum Marchand de Sanitatis. poisson salé Late 14th-century Italian Middle Class

Tacuinum Sanitatis. Osterreichische Tacuinum Sanitatis. Middle class men’s Nationalbibliothek, COD.ser.nov.2644. BnF, Nouvelle clothing based on those Slide 213. acquisition latine seen in the Tacuinum 1673, fol. 94v. c. Sanitatis. 1390-1400 Late 14th-century Italian Upper Class

Tacuinum Sanitatis, ÖNB collection Upper class women's Tacuinum Sanitatis. Upper class men’s clothing based on of manuscripts and ancient prints, gown based on images Osterreichische images from the Tacuinum Sanitatis. Northern Italy (Verona?), end of the from the Tacuinum Nationalbibliothek, (Pattern by me, cote sewn by Lady 14th century 1380-1399, Cod. Ser. n. Sanitatis. COD.ser.nov.2644. Kinna Blackheath). 2644 Han, Scan 18, Collecting Slide 109. Pomegranates Martial garments for civilian wear.

Crucifixion, Oratorio de Pourpoint of Saint Charles de Santo Stefano, Blois, Musée des Tissus, c. 1360. Lombardy, Italy, c. late 14th-century fresco. Pourpoints and Zuparellos made in the style of the Charles de Blois pourpoint by me. (L-R Sgt. Luca Sogliano, Count William of Fairhaven, and His Majesty Sir Seto Gesshuko.) Resource Links: https://luttrellpsalter.wordpress.com/ (The research behind the creation of a short film featuring scenes from the Luttrell Psalter.) http://effigiesandbrasses.com/ (Searchable database of Effigies from Western Europe) http://manuscriptminiatures.com/ (Searchable database of Manuscript Images from Western Europe) https://clothingthepast.wordpress.com/ (mostly Italian and English styles) http://www.neulakko.net/ (mostly Northern Europe/Scandinavia, publishes in both Finnish and English) http://cottesimple.com/ (mostly French and English styles) http://www.morgandonner.com/ (mostly French and English styles) http://rosaliegilbert.com/ (mostly English styles) http://tacuinummedievale.blogspot.com/ (Italian styles, publishes in both Italian and English) https://edythmiller.blogspot.com/ (mostly French and 15th century styles, but some late 14th as well) La Belle Compagnie (Hundred Years War era English reenactment group located in the mid-atlantic states of the USA, search on Facebook for photos.) Places to buy things: https://revivalclothing.com/ (Accessories & Clothing) http://www.historicenterprises.com/ (Accessories, Clothing, Camp Supplies, etc.) https://www.allbeststuff.com/Leather-Products/medieval-leather-footwear (Intro level footwear) https://boots-by-bohemond.myshopify.com/collections/medieval-footwear (Footwear) https://www.billyandcharlie.com/ (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, Rings, etc., in Pewter.) https://www.medievalwares.com/ (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, Rings, etc., in brass, silver, or gold) http://www.thorthorshammer.com (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, etc., in brass.) http://historiskafynd.se/ (Buckles, Belt Ends, Rings, etc., in brass or silver) https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ (Fabrics, Silk Ribbon, and sewing notions) https://fabrics-store.com/ (Linen fabric) https://www.denverfabrics.com/ (Fabrics) https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/ (Fabrics) Books: Shoes and Pattens (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell Press, (May 16, 2013), ISBN-10: 1843832380, ISBN-13: 978-1843832386

Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell Press; New edition edition (December 21, 2012), ISBN-10: 1843832399, ISBN-13: 978-1843832393

Dress Accessories, c. 1150- c. 1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell Press; New Ed edition (January 17, 2013), ISBN-10: 9781843833512, ISBN-13: 978-1843833512

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, 2nd Edition: Common Garments 1100-1480, Costume and Fashion Pr; 2nd edition (May 30, 2015), ISBN-10: 0896762955, ISBN-13: 978-0896762954

Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns, Aarhus University Press (December 15, 2010), ISBN-10: 8779342981, ISBN-13: 978-8779342989 (14th Century Greenland)

Woven into the Earth: Textile finds in Norse Greenland, Aarhus University Press (December 31, 2004), ISBN-10: 8772889357, ISBN-13: 978-8772889351

The Italian cotton industry in the later Middle Ages, 1100-1600. Cambridge University Press (1981), ISBN-10: 0521089603, ISBN-13: 978-0521089609