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October 14, 2020 Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc We Adore These Two Red Grape Varieties

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October 14, 2020 Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc We Adore These Two Red Grape Varieties The Wine and Cheese Cask 407 Washington Street • Somerville, Massachusetts 02143 (617) 623-8656 September 22, 2020 – October 14, 2020 Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc We adore these two red grape varieties. Unlike Cru Classé Bordeaux or Premier Cru Burgundy, there is never a reason not to pull the cork on a Gamay from Beaujolais or Cabernet Franc from the Loire. These are delicious on their own but also very versatile with food, pairing admirably with a wide variety of cuisines since they handle spice and acid well. Straight Beaujolais Grézeaux 2019 Beaujolais (Domaine Dupeuble Père et Fils) 2018 Chinon ‘Les Grézeaux’ (Bernard Baudry) Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve Sale Price $29.99 – $305.90 case of twelve The amazingly good straight We like everything that Baudry produces, but this is one wine that Beaujolais from Dupeuble has enthralls us enough to buy it in quantity been so good for so long it is every good vintage. The 60 year old Les sometimes referred to as Grézeaux vineyard produces a Chinon importer Kermit Lynch’s that is fresh and beautiful in its youth, house Gamay. It’s lovely to mellow and smooth in the mid-term, and watch this purple wine being poured into a glass. Its vibrant, earthy and profound at 15 to 20 years of aromatic fruit is very nose-friendly. On the palate, it is surprisingly age. For its price, this wine delivers a lot. layered— multiple fruits are backed by subtle, spicy tannins. Chill slightly and serve with a cheesy potato gratin and a salad. Saumur-Champigny 2018 Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Terrages’ Côte-de-Brouilly (Clotilde Legrand) 2018 Côte-de-Brouilly (Nicole Chanrion) Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve Clotilde Legrand is the first vigneronne in the Nicole Chanrion makes one serious Cru long history of this Domaine. We don’t always Beaujolais. Her vineyard is now more than have a Saumur-Champigny on the shelf as it’s a 50 years old and is planted on blue schist small appellation, but it has long been popular in and volcanic debris. After a traditional Parisian bistros as a de rigueur red wine match carbonic maceration in large, old barrels, the wine is returned to for pan-roasted salmon. This 2018 is packed the foudres to rest for nine months. This turns the wine from a with dark fruit, balanced with managed tannins and a juicy finish. young and fruity Gamay into a terroir-driven red with deep, earthy flavor. Our favorite recent vintage of this was the 2014, but the Fleurie 2018 is very close and the price is still exceedingly fair. 2019 Fleurie (Clos de la Roilette) Sale Price $24.99 – $254.90 case of twelve Chinon The Clos de la Roilette is in Fleurie, 2015 Chinon ‘Cuvée Terroir’ (Charles Joguet) but when the appellation was first Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve created in the 1920s the original own- Cuvée Terroir is the entry-level bistro ers argued fervently that the vineyard wine from the team at Charles Joguet. was actually in neighboring Moulin- Mssr. Joguet retired several years ago, à-Vent. To protest, they put a picture but the Domaine is running as well as of their favorite racehorse (named ever. This 2015 is a wonderful mature Roilette) on the label along with ‘Grand Cru de Beaujolais’, omit- Chinon made with grapes from preco- ting any reference to Fleurie. Eventually the Coudert family took cious vineyard sites blended with over the domaine and conceded that Clos de la Roilette was, in press wine from their more prestigious fact, in Fleurie. To be fair to the original owners, this is an atypical vineyards. Press wine is what winemakers keep in reserve after Fleurie, which tends to be characterized as ‘pretty’ and ‘charming’ fermentation in case more tannin is needed in the various vats; when compared to the other Crus. Instead, this is powerful and here it adds structure and depth to support the fruit. This is a great mineral-driven, and the 2019 is right on track from previous vin- wine to have with a roast chicken and sautéed mushrooms. tages. It’s a delicious young wine for a couscous or a ratatouille. Listed prices are honored through October 14th. We will not honor mistyped prices. Vol. 44, No. 10 Sancerre Dolcetto 2018 Sancerre (Domaine Paul Cherrier) 2019 Dolcetto d’Alba (M. Marengo) Sale Price $27.99 – $285.50 case of twelve Sale Price $15.99 – $163.10 case of twelve Due to tariffs and changes in The 2019 Marengo Dolcetto is currency we expect prices on riveting from start to finish. French wines to keep rising, so Its lurid purple color leads we locked in this good deal on to succulent, plummy fruit, Cherrier Sancerre when we had while gentle tannins keep this the chance. The 2018 is a deli- ripe wine in earthy, dry form. ciously ripe Sauvignon Blanc We’ve said it many times: grown in the clay and limestone Dolcetto is a great wine for a soils of Verdigny. This village is mushroom risotto, or any other just one hillside over from our dish showcasing mushrooms. favorite Sancerre village of Chavignol, and this wine matches those in its richness and balance. Have this with sautéed sole, Super Tuscan steamed potatoes, and some fine Bucheron cheese. 2017 Trittico (Poggio al Sole) Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve Menetou Rosé Tuscan reds never go out of 2019 Menetou-Salon Rosé ‘Morogues’ (Domaine Pellé) style, especially at this easy Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of twelve price. The Trittico is mostly Whenever we promote a Menetou Blanc we mention that it is Sangiovese from Chianti an affordable alternative to Sancerre, its near neighbor. What Classico with a touch of Mer- we now realize is that lot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Menetou Rosé is likewise It’s got loads of the classic an incredibly affordable cherry fruit of Sangiovese, alternative to Sancerre with enough earthy tannins to delightfully counter the savory Rosé. The Morogues is fat of a cast-iron seared steak. an organic, dark (for rose) Pinot Noir with a full Bourg Blanc mouthfeel, pleasant berry 2018 Bourgogne Blanc (Defaix Frères) fruit, and a gripping, dry Sale Price $17.99 – $183.50 case of twelve finish. This has a lovely autumnal feel and will go well with a The 2018 Bourgogne Blanc layered vegetable gratin. from Defaix Frères is a cool northern Burgundian Char- Lopez! donnay with a resemblance to 2007 Rioja Reserva ‘Viña Tondonia’ (Lopez de Heredia) Chablis. This is wonderfully Sale Price $49.99 – $509.90 case of twelve balanced between stony miner- The time-warp winery Lopez de Heredia is having its mo- als and limey fruit. Light, crisp ment. Having been discovered by sommeliers across the and refreshing, it is a perfect country, their legendary white for roasted haddock on a bed of root vegetables. Riojas are becoming scarce and, ineluctably, more ex- The Value Liter pensive. Our supply of the 2019 Grüner Veltliner (Mantlerhof) 2007 Tondonia Reserva was Sale Price $11.99 per Liter – purchased to be able to sell at $122.30 case of twelve $49.99. The 2008 vintage will This has been a huge hit for a few sell for $59.99. This wine is years now. Mantlerhof captures so good – with its spice box the lively and crisp concentra- nose, floral palate, and long, tion of Grüner Veltliner in a very elegant, and fresh finish – affordable Liter sized bottle. that we almost hate to sell it. This can be served with virtually Please don’t ask about the white Riojas from Lopez. They are anything, though spicy dumplings even better and we really hate to sell those. spring to mind. Monte Bianco We NY 2017 Pinot Bianco ‘Haberle’ (Alois Lageder) 2019 Finger Lakes White Blend Sale Price $19.99 – $203.90 case of twelve (Silver Thread) Perhaps we are a little obsessed with Pinot Bianco from Alto Sale Price $14.99 – $152.90 case of Adige, but there are several excellent producers who deliver twelve great wines at decent prices. This month we have Alois The wines of Silver Thread showcase Lageder’s Haberle, a fascinating dry wine with an amazing why New York’s Finger Lakes is con- combination of cool mountain air, crisp orchard fruits, and sidered the country’s premier region deep veins of minerality. Lageder was an early leader in for Riesling. We found this well-priced, the organic/biodynamic Riesling-based blend to be a charming movement and this wine introduction. Gewürztraminer amplifies the peachy aromas of positively captures the wild this slightly off-dry white, which gets its fleshy texture from streak of this discipline. Chardonnay. Riesling keeps everything fresh, adding bright- Give this a try with hake ness and a splash of spice. Like a good aperitif, this low-sulfur poached in court bouillon wine whets the appetite on its own; however, it’s even better and parsley potatoes. as an alternative to sake with your take-out sushi. Specialty Foods It’s fall and apple season is upon us… so naturally this month we are featuring three of our favorite cheddars! It’s a classic New England pairing, and while we don’t sell apples (you can find those anywhere) we do have an extensive selection of delicious local ciders for pairing. Ford Farm Wookey Hole Cave Aged Cheddar Shelburne Farms Two Year Cheddar $19.99 per lb $16.99 per lb (Regular Price $17.99) (Regular Price $20.99 per lb) UK – Pasteurized/Vegetarian Rennet Vermont – Raw Milk/Animal Rennet Ford Farm Dairy sources this cave-aged Farmhouse cheddar from This is Shelburne Farms’ best-known and best-selling cheddar, Ashley Chase Estate in Dorset.
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