Southern 2015 2015 FLORIDA, the KEYS and the GULF COAST INCLUDING TEXAS

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IntIn racoastal GOOD LIFE Waterway

Southern Bahamasa Bahamas Southern 2015 2015 FLORIDA, THE KEYS AND THE GULF COAST INCLUDING TEXAS

AMERICA’S MOST ACCURATE, TRUSTED AND BEST SELLING CRUISING GUIDES

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56890_LM_WaterwayFlapAd2014.indd 1 6/5/14 11:18 AM ICW MILE 986 ICW MILE 1085

ICW MILE 1057

Stuart

Miami

Biscayne Bay Biscayne

Palm Beach Palm

Cocoa Inlet

Bahamas

Five

Vero Beach Vero

Pompano

Lake

Ponce de Leon de Ponce

Channel

Hallandale

LakeWorth Okeechobee

UIDE

Fort Pierce Fort

Ft. Lauderdale Ft.

Beach Jacksonville G ICW MILE 717 edition ICW MILE 740

ICW MILE 897 New Smyrna New

PAGE 219

Flamingo

Waterway

CAROLINA

SOUTH

Daytona Beach Daytona

Okeechobee Key West Key PAGE 298 PAGE 79 ICW MILE 830

ATERWAY Tampa ICW MILE 1240 GIWW MILE 150

GIWW MILE 0 Fernandina Beach Fernandina W

For Complete Coverage of Ft. Myers Ft.

the Bahamas Islands see our

Sanibel I. Sanibel Sarasota

GIWW MILE 74

Dunedin

Clearwater

Anna Maria Is. Maria Anna

GEORGIA

St. Petersburg St. Tarpon Springs Tarpon MILE 380 EHL

PAGE 345

FLORIDA Carrabelle

PAGE 427 Panama City Panama

MILE 351 EHL Apalachicola MILE 292 EHL

MILE 185 EHL

ALABAMA Pensacola

Tennessee-TombigbeeWaterway

MILE 135 EHL Mobile N MILE 73 EHL

CONTENTS

Gulfport HarveyLock

PAGE 465

MISSISSIPPI Lake

MILE 0

GULF OF MEXICO

Pontchartrain New Orleans New Southern Coverage

MILE 159 WHL

Intracoastal City Intracoastal

LOUISIANA

Port Arthur Port Galveston MILE 350 WHL MILE 285 WHL

MILE 395 WHL

Houston

TEXAS Freeport

WWW.WATERWAYGUIDE.COM Corpus Christi Corpus

Skipper’s Handbook Brownsville I GPS Waypoints 40 I Tide Tables 43 I Bridges & Locks 49 MILE 545 WHL MILE 682 WHL MEXICO 8 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE ICW MILE 986 ICW MILE 1085

ICW MILE 1057

Stuart

Miami

Biscayne Bay Biscayne

Palm Beach Palm

Cocoa

Inlet

Five

Vero Beach Vero

Pompano

Lake

Ponce de Leon de Ponce

Channel

Hallandale

LakeWorth

Okeechobee

Fort Pierce Fort

Ft. Lauderdale Ft.

Beach Jacksonville ICW MILE 717 ICW MILE 740

ICW MILE 897

New Smyrna New

Flamingo

Waterway

CAROLINA

SOUTH

Daytona Beach Daytona

Okeechobee Key West Key

ICW MILE 830 VOLUME 68, NO. 3

Tampa Contents ICW MILE 1240 GIWW MILE 150

GIWW MILE 0

Fernandina Beach Fernandina

Ft. Myers Ft. Sanibel I. Sanibel

Introduction Extended Cruising Sarasota

GIWW MILE 74 5 Publisher’s Note

Dunedin 565 Atlantic ICW Marinas Clearwater

Anna Maria Is. Maria Anna 6 Navigating Your Guide 566 Chesapeake Bay Marinas

GEORGIA St. Petersburg St. Tarpon Springs Tarpon 12 Cruising Editors 567 Bahamas Marinas

MILE 380 EHL 15 Things to Know Before You Go FLORIDA 568 Northern Marinas

Skipper’s Handbook 569 Service Directory Carrabelle

22 U.S. Coast Guard 33 Vessel Registration/Fees 570 Cruising Club Partners ©ISTOCKPHOTO/BPALMER 23 Customs 34 No Discharge Zones

Panama City Panama 24 Port Security 35 FL Pump-out Boat Service Indexes MILE 351 EHL Apalachicola 26 Rules of the Road 36 Nautical Charts 574 Marina/Sponsor Index 578 Subject Index MILE 292 EHL 27 Bridge Basics 37 Launch Ramps MILE 185 EHL

ALABAMA 28 VHF Communications 38 Distance Tables 584 Goin’ Ashore Index Pensacola 29 Automatic Identi cation 40 GPS Waypoints 584 Inlets Index System-AIS 42 Ditch Bag Checklist CONTENTS Tennessee-TombigbeeWaterway 30 Hurricanes 43 Tide Tables

MILE 135 EHL 31 Weather 49 Bridge & Locks

Mobile 32 Lightning

Inlets: Florida’s East Coast ...... 57

MILE 73 EHL

Gulfport HarveyLock

Florida’s Upper East Coast

MISSISSIPPI Lake MILE 0

GULF OF MEXICO Introduction ...... 79 Pontchartrain

New Orleans New 1. Fernandina Beach to St. Johns River ...... 83 2. Sidetrips on the St. Johns River ...... 92 3. Jacksonville Beach to Ponce de Leon Inlet ...... 119 4. New Smyrna Beach to Vero Beach...... 144

MILE 159 WHL 5. Fort Pierce to St. Lucie River...... 171

6. Okeechobee Waterway...... 193 Intracoastal City Intracoastal LOUISIANA Cruising south on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), mariners enter

Florida at Mile 714. A study in contrasts, the scenery begins its change Port Arthur Port from nearly deserted, white-capped sounds to the claustrophobic con- ﬁ nes of the crowded “ditch” lined by mountainous condominiums.

As you cross Cumberland Sound and the St. Marys River, the broad expanses of Galveston MILE 350 WHL MILE 285 WHL the marsh-bordered Georgia ICW give way to the narrower, more protected and

MILE 395 WHL more populated Florida route.

Houston

TEXAS

Freeport

Corpus Christi Corpus Brownsville MILE 545 WHL MILE 682 WHL MEXICO WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 9 Contents Florida’s Upper Gulf Coast Introduction ...... 427 17. The Big Bend ...... 429 18. The Panhandle: Apalachicola to Pensacola ...... 443 Florida’s Panhandle, stretching from Carrabelle or Apalachicola on the eastern end to Pensacola and Perdido Bay on the west, is sometimes called the Forgotten Coast. It can be reached in one of three ways: From the east, either directly across 130 to 170 miles of the Gulf of Mexico or skirting the Big Bend area just offshore; or from the west from Mobile Bay, from which many Midwestern cruisers come, down the river route.

Florida’s Lower East Coast Introduction ...... 219 7. St. Lucie Inlet to Palm Beach...... 220 8. Lake Worth to Pompano Beach...... 236 9. Fort Lauderdale to Hallandale ...... 250 10. North Miami, Miami Beach ...... 272 11. Miami to Key Biscayne...... 286 Once you pass Vero Beach, you are positioned midway between the upper and lower reaches of the Indian River. As the river widens, the dredged channel begins to straighten out for the 13 miles south to Fort Pierce. The project depth along this stretch is 12 feet, but the controlling depth is 8 feet or less. Gulf Coast Introduction ...... 465

CONTENTS The Florida Keys 19. Pensacola Bay to Louisiana ...... 466 20. Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans ...... 491 Introduction ...... 298 21. New Orleans to Freeport ...... 503 12. Upper Keys...... 301 22. Freeport to Brownsville ...... 540 13. Lower Keys...... 327 The area west from Florida along the Gulf Coast historically Extending in a sweeping southwesterly curve from Miami has been described as the playground of the South. The region and the mainland, the Florida Keys offer the cruising boater is known for its miles of pure white beaches, scenic landscapes an environment unlike other Waterway areas. In many ways, and historic towns. This trip can challenge your boating skills. the Keys resemble the islands of the Bahamas. However, a Expect to encounter a variety of conditions, ranging from open main highway and a total of 18.94 miles of bridges tie them water on Mobile Bay and Mississippi Sound to narrow, some- together. times cramped, canals and waterways. Lagoons and bayous often alternate with long and sometimes tedious land cuts.

Florida’s West Coast Introduction ...... 345 14. Flamingo to Fort Myers Beach...... 346 15. San Carlos Bay to Sarasota...... 372 16. Anna Maria Island to Tarpon Springs ...... 402 Zoologically and geographically, Florida’s lower west coast differs substantially from the east. The cruising, too, is entirely different. The sophistication, glamour and luxury so prevalent on the east coast comes in more measured doses here. The pace is slower, the atmosphere more relaxed and the amenities somewhat more limited and spaced farther apart, but the cruising is superb.

10 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE Crossing the Gulf Stream • The Gulf Stream was arbitrarily figured at 001 degrees One of the problems the mariner encounters when crossing true, 2.5 knots for runs to Lake Worth Inlet and at 002 the Gulf Stream is how to allow for the set of the current. degrees true, 2.6 knots for all other runs. Fast boats have little trouble correcting the effect of the • Variation used was 004.5 degrees west. Gulf Stream, but boats with operating speeds of between 5 • Crossings to Lucaya extend beyond the Gulf Stream’s and 10 knots must make major corrections. Here are some effect; thus, the rhumb line distance shown is that used in corrected courses and estimated elapsed times at varying calculations for the current, followed by the rhumb line speeds under normal sea conditions. distance to complete the run without current to offset. This table should be used only as a guide, not as a refer- • Some routes to Lucaya may not be single, direct runs. ence. Varying wind and weather conditions will influence They were computed to a point off Southwest Point your passage. on Grand Bahama Island, then to the buoy off Bell This table should give a general idea of how long your Channel. crossing might take under normal conditions. The chart • All runs are not the reverse of others. Miami to West End below depicts those rhumb line crossings noted in the is calculated, but not West End to Miami because the Gulf tables and can be used in conjunction with your GPS Stream would be too much “on the nose.” Lake Worth heading. Inlet to Bimini is not calculated for the same reason.

Lake Worth Inlet INLETS: FLORIDA’S EAST COAST 101M 56nm 281M 111M West End West Palm 52+27nm 75nm Beach 291M Grand Bahama Island

336M 252M Freeport 64nm 69nm 267M 072M 53+27nm 064M 087M 260M Pompano Beach Hillsboro Inlet 55+28nm 080M 248M m Northeast Providence Channel 61+30n 53nm 068M

125M 315M Fort 82nm Lauderdale Port 48nm Everglades 133M 82nm 305M 339M 53nm

Miami 053M 58nm 101M 313M 42nm 281M 112M 321M Government Cut 44nm Bimini 292M Gun Cay

Cat Cay

WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 77 Florida’s Upper East Coast n FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER n ST. JOHNS RIVER n JACKSONVILLE BEACH TO PONCE DE LEON INLET

CHAPTER 1 n NEW SMYRNA BEACH TO VERO BEACH n FORT PIERCE TO ST. LUCIE RIVER

GEORGIA Fernandina Beach ICW MILE 717 N

Jacksonville FLORIDA ICW MILE 740

ICW MILE 776 St. Augustine

OA CTLANE ATI N Skipper’s Handbook Carrabelle Palm Coast I GPS Waypoints 40 Daytona Beach I Tide Tables 43 ICW MILE 830 I Bridges & Locks 49 Ponce de Leon Inlet New Smyrna ICW MILE 846 Beach Cedar Key

Titusville Homosassa ICW MILE 878 Cape Canaveral

Cocoa ICW MILE 897 G MOU CFLEO XI Spring Hill Cocoa Beach

Tarpon Springs GIWW MILE 150 ICW MILE 917 Melbourne Dunedin Clearwater GIWW MILE 136 Tampa ICW MILE 935 Sebastian St. Petersburg GIWW MILE 117 Vero Beach ICW MILE 952 Bradenton Anna Maria I. GIWW MILE 90 Fort Pierce ICW MILE 965 ICW MILE 986 Stuart GIWW MILE 74 St. Lucie Inlet Sarasota GIWW MILE 58 Venice Punta Gorda Lake Port Charlotte Okeechobee ICW MILE 1005 Jupiter Okeechobee Palm Beach

FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA Waterway Lake Worth ICW MILE 1027 WWW.WATERWAYGUIDE.COM Ft. Myers Cape Coral Pompano Section Contents Sanibel I. GIWW MILE 0 Fernandina Beach San Carlos Ft. Lauderdale ICW MILE 1063 Bay to St. Johns River 83 Hallandale Sidetrips: St. Johns River 92 ICW MILE 1085 Miami Jacksonville Beach Marco I. to Ponce de Leon Inlet 119 Everglades City ICW MILE 1094 Key Biscayne New Smyrna Beach Biscayne Bay to Vero Beach 144 Fort Pierce to St. Lucie River 171 ICW MILE 1142 Okeechobee Flamingo Key Largo Waterway 193 Cape Sable

78 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE ICW MILE 1240 Channel Five Key West CHAPTER 1 Introduction Florida’s Upper East Coast ruising south on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), only with federal money.) The controlling depth—the least

Cboaters enter Florida at Mile 714 and Fernandina Beach. water depth actually available—is what counts. Current depths FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER A study in contrasts, the scenery slowly begins its change from are reported by the USACE, by the Coast Guard (in the Local nearly deserted, white-capped sounds to the confines of the Notice to Mariners) and by Waterway Guide (www.waterway- busy ICW lined by condominiums and beautiful homes. As guide.com) according to the latest information. The USACE you cross Cumberland Sound and the St. Marys River, the and FIND schedule dredging of shoaling sections throughout broad expanses of the marsh-bordered Georgia ICW slowly the year, and what was too shallow last year may be 12 feet starts to give way to the narrower, more protected, and more deep this year, and vice versa. Funds for dredging are still populated Florida route. From here to Miami, 375 statute scarce; use caution and stay informed with the most up-to-date miles (326 nautical miles), navigational aids are plentiful, and information. marinas and urban centers proliferate as you continue south. You should also be aware that Florida requires a fishing Below St. Lucie Inlet, the coastline becomes truly tropical, with license for both freshwater and saltwater fishing. The easiest a profusion of palm trees and exotic flowers. Here, the bustling way to get a license is online, but the licenses are available Gold Coast comes into its own, with burgeoning development through sporting goods stores and are available at the county and fewer anchorages than you might wish. offices. Just do not wet your lines in Florida without it. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) project depths on Dozens of bridges cross the ICW between Fernandina Beach the ICW are 12 feet from Norfolk, VA to Fort Pierce, FL, Mile and Miami, and many have restricted opening schedules. Some 965; 10 feet to Miami, FL, Mile 1085; and 7 feet from Miami are restricted for different hours in specific months, some are to Cross Bank across Florida Bay. Keep in mind that these are closed during rush hours and some open on the quarter-hour, ideal depths, maintained as closely as possible by the USACE half-hour or even at 20 minutes and 40 minutes past the and the Florida Inland Navigation District (FIND). (FIND hour. To add to the confusion, the restrictions are constantly receives state funding provided by taxes on waterfront property changing. Just because a bridge opened on a certain schedule throughout Florida; thus, Florida has more money available for last season does not mean it is still on that same schedule. (See waterway maintenance than states where dredging is funded the Skipper’s Handbook section in the front of the Guide for Photo courtesy of Visit Florida.

WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 79 Florida’s Upper East Coast CHAPTER 1

Looking east over Fernandina Beach. (Not to be used for navigation.) WATERWAY GUIDE PHOTOGRAPHY. the most current schedules at publication.) Though the bridge for a central office that manages that bridge. Some bridges are information was correct at the time it was reported—after not required to open in high winds. If you encounter a bridge checking Coast Pilots, the Federal Register and Local Notice that won’t open, it is prudent to drop the hook in a safe spot to Mariners—some bridge information here may have already until the situation is resolved. changed by the time of publication. Check locally to verify Most bridges carry a tide board to register vertical clearance bridge schedules before your transit. at the center of the span. In Florida, however, the tide board Florida ICW bridges monitor VHF Channel 09, designated figure (and the one noted on the chart) is generally for a point by the Federal Communications Commission as the “bridge that is 5 feet toward the channel from the bridge fender. In the tender channel.” ICW bridges in other states (except South case of arched bridges, center channel clearance is frequently Carolina and Georgia) still answer on VHF Channel 13, as do higher than the tide gauge registers. So check your chart and the locks in the Okeechobee. In Florida waters, it is a good idea the tide boards and, unless it specifically notes that vertical to monitor both the bridge channel and VHF Channel 16— clearance is given “at center,” you may be able to count on a one on your ship’s radio and one on a handheld radio, if your little extra height at mid-channel, under the arch of the bridge. main set doesn’t have a dual-watch capability—to monitor Some bridges may bear signs noting extra height at center in oncoming commercial traffic and communications with the feet. bridge tender. With a few exceptions, the ICW between Fernandina and The proper horn signal for a bridge opening is one prolonged Miami is protected from strong winds and is usually free of blast (four to six seconds) and one short blast (approximately rough water. Tidal heights range from more than 7 feet at one second). Bridge operators sound this signal when ready Fernandina to about 1.5 feet at Key West. Currents up to 4 FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA to open the bridge, and then usually the danger signal, five knots may be encountered between Fernandina and Haulover short blasts, when they are closing the bridge. The operator of Canal, especially at inlets. Lesser currents up to about 2 knots each vessel is required by law to signal the bridge tender for an occur from Haulover Canal to Miami. opening, even if another vessel has already signaled. The Florida ICW is well marked and easy to follow. Keep When using VHF, always call bridges by name and identify track of your position by checking off markers on the chart as your vessel by name and type (such as sailing vessel or trawler) you pass. Take a little extra care where inlet, river and ICW and whether you are traveling north or south. If you are unable channels meet; a few moments’ study of the chart ahead of to raise the bridge using VHF radio, use a horn signal. (For fur- time will prevent confusion in those areas where a buoy system ther information, see the Coast Pilot 4, Chapter Two: Title 33, changes direction. Navigation Regulations, Part 117, Drawbridge Regulations.) If Much of Florida’s eastern ICW is narrow and shoal-bor- the gates do not come down and the bridge does not open after dered, with scattered anchorages. As the population continues repeated use of the radio and the horn, call the Coast Guard and to increase, favorite anchorages are becoming more crowded. ask them to call the bridge tender on the land telephone line, or Good anchorages are still available if you plan ahead. Using an you may be able to call the bridge directly. Phone numbers for anchor light is important and required by law, and some places many bridges are given in the Skipper’s Handbook, although will give you a ticket for not having one on at night. Marina some of the numbers are not for the actual bridge tender, but dockage faces much the same space shortage, so you should 80 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE Florida’s Upper East Coast CHAPTER 1 reserve ahead or plan to arrive early at your chosen marina residence.” For cruisers, the operative phrase is represented during the winter cruising season. Most dockmasters make as a legal residence. Maritime lawyers and Waterway Guide every effort to fi nd room for one more, and the friendliness editors suggest that cruising boaters who might otherwise call of the boating community usually makes up for the crowded themselves “liveaboards” should adopt the term “full-time conditions. cruisers” or just “cruisers.” That shifts the burden to the local In the past few years, the hurricanes that hit the Florida authorities, forcing them to prove a boat is a residence. coastline caused damage from Fernandina Beach to Pensacola. Boating, however, injects about $18 billion into the Florida Many marinas sustained signifi cant damage. Most facilities economy each year, so offi cials at the state level began to have fully recovered while some have permanently closed fret at the mounting publicity about anchoring disputes and or sold out to developers. Before cruising in Florida, call the police harassment. The state of Florida called “time out” and marinas of your intended destinations and make reservations rewrote the law, forbidding the locals from restricting “non- at least one day in advance. liveaboards in navigation.” Cities like Ft. Lauderdale and Many retirees who have sold their homes are cruising Miami had imposed time constraints on anchoring and Vero the East Coast and the islands on a more or less full-time Beach had fl at out prohibited it within their waters. However, schedule. In Florida, governments at every level regard the State of Florida, after many lawsuits, passed legislation

liveaboards as a problem. Florida law does not distinguish (327.02) that stated, “that local governmental authorities FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER between a resident of the state who lives and works there, has are prohibited from regulating the anchoring outside of such their mail delivered to the marina, has the marina address on mooring fi elds of vessels other than liveaboard vessels...” That their driver’s license, votes there, and lives on a boat instead is not to say that municipalities may not try to enforce old of a house versus a transient who lives and votes somewhere regulations, but unless you are anchored within a designated else but happens to want to winter in Florida on their boat. mooring fi eld, or you are impeding navigation, you are legal The widely held, if unoffi cial view is that liveaboards rarely as long as you are a “cruising” and not a “liveaboard” vessel. move their boats, pump bilge and black water overboard, As boats compete for space and traffi c increases along the allow boats to deteriorate, create nuisance problems for local ICW, local agencies have set up Idle-Speed/No-Wake Zones. residents and don’t pay property taxes. So the state, counties Such speed limits protect shorelines, wildlife, shore facilities and local municipalities have acted to curtail liveaboards and berthed boats from wake damage and help cut down on more and more aggressively. In Florida, merely describing boating accidents. Idle speed means putting the engine in yourself as a “liveaboard” changes your status under the law. gear with no increase in throttle, while taking care to main- Florida municipalities along the Intracoastal Waterway have tain control of the vessel. Other areas have Slow-Speed Zones adopted some restrictive anchoring regulations. where a minimum wake is required, while others may have a State law defi nes a liveaboard boat as “any vessel used limit on wake height. Read the signs. In crowded areas (such solely as a residence or any vessel represented as place of busi- as Fort Lauderdale and Miami), especially on weekends and ness, a professional or other commercial enterprise or a legal holidays when less experienced boaters are on the water,

Fort Clinch. (Not to be used for navigation.) Photo courtesy of Mike Kucera. WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 81 Florida’s Upper East Coast

always slow down and keep alert. Manatee zones have Florida’s summer is tropical, with temperatures in the 90s speed restrictions that are strictly enforced. Many are and high humidity, usually accompanied by a refreshing seasonal, and the posted signs may be difﬁcult to read, so sea breeze. June and September are the rainiest months, keep an eye out for them. with lots of sunshine between showers. Mosquitoes and When cruisers think of Florida, they usually envision sandﬂies (no-see-ums) may be bothersome, particularly

CHAPTER 1 balmy breezes, endless sunshine and consistently warm around swampy, wooded or mangrove-fringed areas. weather. That is true more often than not, but moderate Insect screens are a necessity. Winds are generally light to heavy frosts occur frequently in northern and central to moderate from the east, a phenomenon that makes Florida and sometimes extend to the toe of the peninsula. crossing the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas comparatively From autumn to spring, Florida is under the influence easy. of an eastward-flowing cycle of cold and warm fronts. An Remember, though, that June 01 through November 01 arriving cold front is heralded by a shift in the prevailing is hurricane season for insurance reasons, but June 01 to east wind to the south, then to the southwest. Here, the November 30 is what NOAA considers to be the official front may hang motionless for a few hours or a day, and hurricane season. Listen to the NOAA broadcasts on the the weather can become warm and reminiscent of summer. weather stations of your VHF radio each day. The colorful Then the wind moves abruptly into the northwest, often graphics of local television news also can be useful, as well accompanied by heavy black cloudbanks, line squalls and as the many available online weather sources. rain. With clearing skies, the wind may remain northerly Morning sea mist is common during the winter months for several days, bringing cold, windy and sparkling bright along both coasts of central and northern Florida. Pea- weather. The wind shifts back to the east—sometimes soup “sea fog” can occur from fall through spring in suddenly, sometimes gradually—bringing warmer air, northeast Florida any time warm calm weather settles over some cloudiness, a breeze and “normal” Florida weather. cool ocean waters. It appears as a low dark cloud over the Sometimes the wind will stubbornly stay northeasterly for ocean that gently rolls in to engulf the coast and some- two or three days at 15 to 25 knots. times lasts all day. It should be respected. Frequently, the cycle turns full circle within three or One of the biggest weather threats in Florida is light- four days. Fast or slow, the pattern repeats itself all winter. ning, which is a daily afternoon occurrence in the warmer Cold fronts demand respect and caution, as “northers” can months. That is how Florida earned its nickname as “The bring severe weather with rough seas and strong winds. Lightning Capital of the World.” Refer to the Skipper’s Cold snaps in northern Florida can freeze dock lines and Handbook section in the front of this Guide for a full treat- hoses and cause unexpected damage. Monitor NOAA ment of this dangerous phenomenon. I weather forecasts from a variety of sources regularly, especially in December and January.

QUICK FACT: vessels from another state may also apply for a Sojourner THE SOJOURNER PERMIT Permit and will be granted an additional one year of use A Sojourner Permit is required for any vessel owned by a in Florida waters. The Sojourner Permit will extend the non-Florida resident, registered in another state or feder- period of use for your boat in Florida waters, however ally documented, which stays in state waters for more than when it expires you must leave Florida. 90 days, or is used in Florida waters more than 183 days The Sojourner Permit is subject to much confusion, FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA a year. The intent is to ensure that boats used in Florida discussion and debate, as even the Florida of cials poorly are registered in Florida. Registering your boat in Florida is understand it and the rules and requirements are often mis- about tax revenue. The “use” component of Florida’s sales applied. The permit is a document issued by a county tax and use tax law provides uniform taxation of items pur- of ce. State law is subject to local interpretation depending chased out of state but stored or used in Florida. on the tax district. Many county tax of ce employees do not Registration of, and taxes on, boats brought to Florida know about the permit or the application of the rules. If are not required if you meet all of the following conditions: you are going to keep a boat in Florida longer than the allot- • You are a legal resident of another state, and ted 90 days, you will want to educate yourself in advance. • You have owned the boat 6 months or longer, and Download and complete the forms, and be prepared to • You have shown no intent to use the boat in Florida at educate the attendant in the tax of ce when you show up or before the time of purchase, and with your application. • The boat has been in use 6 months or longer within The permit required is HSMV 87244, “Application the taxing jurisdiction of another state to Register Non Titled Vessels.” Refer to the Florida A vessel registered in another state may apply for a Department of Revenue’s “Sales and Use Tax on Boats” at Sojourner Permit, which will allow the vessel to remain http://dormyorida.com/dor/forms/2011/gt800005.pdf in Florida waters for an additional 60 days. Documented for more information.

82 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE Fernandina Beach to CHAPTER 1 St. Johns River CHARTS 11488, 11489, 11490, 11491, 11502, 11503

s you cross the St. Marys River and enter the state Aof Florida, you will notice a change in the charac- teristics of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). Georgia’s long, open sounds and wide rivers gradually transform into a series of creeks and rivers connected by narrow land

cuts, and you will see much more development. The ICW FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER crosses several navigable inlets that no doubt attracted the early explorers. The ﬁ rst settlers built strategic, proﬁ table ports along these protected inside waters. Today’s cruisers use improved and connected passages that link many of these original settlements.

NAVIGATION: Use Chart 11489. The St. Marys entrance is deep, wide, jettied and well marked, but exercise caution when going through, as the jetties become sub- merged at mid-tide. It is a relatively easy entry and exit point, conveniently located just off the ICW. The short offshore jump from here to the St. Johns River at Mayport (near Jacksonville) or to the inlet at St. Augustine bypasses the sometimes shallow, shifting channels at Nassau Sound, and a northerly leg to St. Simons avoiding the charted 4- to 5-foot-deep shoal to port. Also Island will cut out the meandering shallows found in be sure to leave green daybeacon “79” well to port heading Cumberland Sound and Jekyll Creek. Both the St. Johns south. Here, the green markers will be left to starboard south- and the St. Simons inlets do involve long entry chan- bound out of Cumberland Sound to the Florida line until you nels and strong currents to return to the ICW; be pick up quick-fl ashing green buoy “1” in the Amelia River careful, and try to plan exits and entries with a slack near Mile 715. current or fair tide. (See Inlet Section at the front of this The ICW fronts the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base Guide for more information.) near Mile 708, and Navy security patrols carefully monitor The active Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, located in traffi c from both directions, especially when submarines Cumberland Sound north of the junction of the St. Marys are passing through Cumberland Sound and St. Marys River, continues to be the reason for frequent dredging and Entrance. They will ask you to move outside of the channel renumbering of buoys, beginning where the ICW joins the if a submarine is in the vicinity. Patrol boats respond on head of Cumberland Sound, and continuing to the ocean VHF Channel 16. The submarines travel at high speeds in inlet. The channel is consequently quite deep and wide. open water, creating very large wakes. For more informa- The St. Marys Entrance Channel buoys, offshore of the tion on security zones around U.S. Naval vessels, see the entrance, were eliminated several years ago. The buoy that “Port Security Procedures” section found in the Skipper’s formerly was “10” is now fl ashing red buoy “2,” and every Handbook in the front of this Guide. buoy in Cumberland Sound up to the head of Kings Bay On the Amelia River at Mile 718 past the Fernandina was renumbered accordingly. ICW daybeacon numbering Beach waterfront, swing wide between red daybeacons remains unchanged. Older charts may not show this “14” and “16” and favor the north side between red day- change. Remember, the ICW daybeacons all have a yellow beacons “16” and “18” due to 6-foot depths on the magenta square or yellow triangle to designate it as an ICW marker. line between the two. Red daybeacon “18” appears to be When passing from Cumberland Dividings into too far to the west but head toward it to give the shoal at Cumberland Sound, there is a tricky spot in the ICW the bend marked by fl ashing green “1” a wide berth, both channel just south of green daybeacon “75” (Mile 707.8 above and below. After passing fl ashing green “1,” swing just east of Kings Bay). Heading south, alter course to the east side of the channel as indicated by the magenta westward to favor red daybeacon “76,” leaving it close line on the chart. The shoal making out here from the west to starboard, and then continue south in the channel, WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 83 Fernandina Beach, FL

Fernandina Beach St. Marys Entrance

CHAPTER 1 Cumberland Island

Cumberland Sound

ICW

St. Marys River

Looking east at the St. Marys Entrance and Cumberland Sound. Fernandina Beach is to the right. (Not to be used for navigation.) WATERWAY GUIDE PHOTOGRAPHY.

side is about 6 feet or less at low water, as noted by our The Fernandina Harbor Marina is located at Mile 716.7. cruising editor in spring 2014. Dredging of the interior part of this marina has transient Fernandina Beach–Mile 716 dockage available on both sides of the floating face dock as well as all slips on the interior of the marina. It is still Florida’s northernmost city, Fernandina Beach, is on a good idea to call ahead for reservations, as this is a Amelia Island east of the ICW. Discovered in 1562 by popular stop. Fernandina Harbor Marina also has pump- the French explorer Jean Ribault, who named it Isle de out service, a laundry facility, an on-site restaurant and Mai, the Spanish settled the island in 1567. They renamed restrooms/showers. it Santa Maria, established a mission and built Fort San About a block from Fernandina Harbor Marina is a Fernando. In 1702, the British captured the island and small store that carries limited staples, but serious grocery gave it the name that finally stuck: Amelia, in honor of shopping at Winn-Dixie and Publix is about two miles King George II’s daughter. Amelia Island has enjoyed a away and requires a cab. The historic downtown district, colorful history. In its earlier years, pirates and smugglers next to the waterfront, has several restaurants, taverns and FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA used it as their stronghold, and during Prohibition, rum- gift shops. The Tourist Information Center can provide a runners continued the tradition. Eight different flags have helpful map. flown over Amelia Island, among them the standard of Moorings: Fernandina Harbor Marina has installed 20 the conquistadors and the French Huguenots, the British moorings in the anchorage area across the channel from Union Jack and the Stars and Bars of the Confederacy. The their marina. Seven are reserved for transient boaters who island is the only place in the United States to have been call ahead, while most are available on a first-come, first- claimed by so many governments. served basis. The mooring fee includes dinghy dockage, Dockage: At Mile 715.3 is the entrance to Egans Creek use of the marina showers, laundry, trash disposal and free (east of the Waterway), which leads to Tiger Point Marina, pump-out facilities at the dock. the first marina you will encounter as you enter Florida Anchorage: The mooring area is marked with yellow from the north and Amelia Island’s only natural deepwater buoys, but anchoring is still permitted outside the marked marina. Tiger Point is also a full-service repair yard with area. Anchored boats may use the dinghy dock and approach depths of 7 to 8 feet. Diesel fuel (no gas) can be showers for a modest fee. If you choose to anchor, take found at Port Consolidated and possibly transient dockage. care that your swinging circle does not extend into the It is usually best to dock alongside Port Consolidated’s channel or the mooring area. Also make sure that you fixed dock during higher tides. Many commercial vessels have adequate scope on your anchor for the varying depths fuel up here, so there may be a wait. 84 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE Fernandina Beach, FL CHAPTER 1 FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER

Downtown Fernandina Beach. WATERWAY GUIDE PHOTOGRAPHY and sometimes fast-moving current. Caution is advised, as GOIN’ ASHORE: sunken boats have been present in this area in the past, and their debris may still be on the bottom. Several sunken FERNANDINA BEACH, FL boats have been observed outside of the channel between History: The downtown historic district, a 50-block section red daybeacons “14” and “16.” surrounding Centre Street, is an attractive and popular gin- Boats have been seen anchoring up the Amelia River in gerbread seaport dating from the 1850s, when Florida’s first Bells River and also in Lanceford Creek. These anchorages cross-state railroad ran from Fernandina to Cedar Key. (The should be approached with caution, as the chart contours railroad tracks still run past the waterfront with occasional show varied depths with snags and mud banks. The tidal traffic.) The area is listed on the National Historic Register range is greater than 7 feet, and tidal currents run up to 2 and is worth a visit. The old train depot is a satellite office knots here. Although it is a relatively short dinghy ride to the for the Chamber of Commerce and serves as the Tourist marina dinghy dock, the anchorage and mooring areas are Information Center. open to winds, wakes and considerable tidal current. Always Points of Interest: With local attractions such as Fort display anchor lights, as commercial and other traffic can be Clinch State Park, Cumberland Island National Seashore, heavy at all hours. Oyster Bay Harbor Marina is located off Amelia Island State Park and the island itself, Fernandina Lanceford Creek for those who prefer to tie up. makes a pleasant stopover. Luxury resorts such as the Ritz At Mile 719.5, entering the Amelia River and the ICW Carlton and Amelia Island Plantation at the south end of from the east, Jackson Creek provides 7-foot depths at the island draw tourists and conferees from afar, and new mean low water, although its entrance is recently reported housing development in the area is attracting a wave of new to have shoaled to 4 feet. Like all anchorages in the area, residents. There is an area of strip malls and large stores it has swift tidal currents. It is relatively narrow, and the of the popular home improvement, drug and department north side should be favored to avoid the charted shoal. The variety usually found in booming residential areas, just off- Amelia River breaks off to the west of the ICW at Mile 719.8 island, near Yulee. When exploring beyond the downtown with 6-to 7-foot depths at mean low water. Although it is Fernandina Beach area, however, you will need to arrange preferred over Jackson Creek to the north, it is also quite for transportation. Also, for golfers, Fernandina Beach narrow. Enter slowly with the depth sounder on. Be sure to Municipal Golf Course is located at 2800 Bill Melton Rd. lay out plenty of scope due to the swift currents, but also be (904-277-7370). aware of the swing room. Shopping: For shopping, try Fantastic Fudge (218 Centre St., 904-277-4801), and Books Plus (107 Centre St.,

WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 85 Fernandina Beach, FL

Laundry, Pool, Showers, Courtesy Car

Min/Max Amps CHAPTER 1 Amelia River, FL FERNANDINA BEACH AREA 1. Tiger Point Marina 715.3 904-277-2720 55 16/11 4/50 7/8 F – M HEP L50 30/50 S – MR 2. Port Consolidated (formerly Florida Petroleum Corp.) 904-753-4258 285 16 3/13 50/30 – D – – – – – – GMR 3. Fernandina Harbor Marina 716.7 904-310-3300 205 16/68 60/120 18/8 F GD GIMS – – 30/100 LPS P GMR 4. Oyster Bay Harbour Marina 904-261-4773 65 – 5/76 15/6 F – I – – 30/50 PS P R 5. Amelia Island Yacht Basin 721 904-277-4615 110 16/72 30/135 5/6 F GD GIMS HEP L50 30/50 LSC P GMR Internet Access Wireless Internet Access Waterway Guide Cruising Club Partner (Information in the table is provided by the facilities.)

904-261-0303). If you are in need of a Post Office, it is located at the corner of Centre St. and S. 4th Street. Amelia 1 Island Paint and Hardware (516 Ash St., 904-261-6604) not only has hardware but also some boating supplies and is planning to expand the marine section of the store in 2 T L the future. Fred’s on S. 8th St. is a convenience store with 7 8 everything from meat and vegetables to clothing and com- 6 12 puters (904-261-7676). Winn-Dixie and Publix are about PO 2 miles away. There are a surprising number of shops and M3 restaurants in this small town; too numerous to mention all 11 5 of them, so take the time to explore all of the side streets. Dining: Not far from the waterfront you will find the 3 10 9 4 RX Palace Saloon (117 Centre St., 904-491-3332), Florida’s G oldest tavern. For fine Italian cuisine try Ciao Bistro (302 Centre St., 904-20604311). Dine inside or out at España Restaurant and Tapas (22 S. 4th St., 904-261-7700), specializing in dishes from Spain and Portugal. Brett’s Waterway Cafe is located at Fernandina Harbor Marina. You can’t find a better view in town (1 S. Front St., 904- G 261-2660). 29 South is getting great reviews. Find them 2 blocks from the waterfront (29 S. 3rd St., 904-277-7919). Reference the marina listing tables to see all the marinas in the area. An old favorite in town is Marina Seafood Restaurant, located just across the street from the marina (101 Centre J POINTS OF INTEREST G GROCERIES St., 904-261-5310). For bakery sweets and treats, try the 1 Fort Clinch State Park L LIBRARY “Pecan Roll” on S. 8th St. (904-491-9815). k SHOPPING 2 Books Plus PO POST OFFICE FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA 3 Fantastic Fudge TOURIST INFORMATION 4 Amelia Island Paints CENTER and Hardware RX PHARMACY 5 Fred’s Super Dollar M3 FERNANDINA HARBOR Another Cruising Essential DINING MARINA 6R Brett's Waterway Cafe 7 Marina Seafood Find current fuel prices at 8 Palace Saloon www.WaterwayGuide.com. 9 29 South Click on the Cruising 10 España Restaurant Resources menu tab. Prices are updated weekly. and Tapas 11 Ciao Bistro 12 Pecan Roll Bakery FUEL REPORT

86 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE Fernandina Beach, FL CHAPTER 1 FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER

N 30˚ 40.200' W 081˚ 27.933'

Corresponding chart(s) not to be used for navigation WATERWAYGUIDE.COM SOUTHERN 2015 87 Fernandina Beach, FL ADDITIONAL RESOURCES channel at green daybeacon “21” and flashing red “24,” just north of the entrance to Alligator Creek, the narrow n CITY OF FERNANDINA BEACH, 904-277-7305, channel makes a sharp sweep to the east. Unwary skippers www.fbfl.us will find 2-foot depths outside of the channel at flashing n amelia-island-online.com red “24,” green daybeacon “25” and red daybeacon “26.”

CHAPTER 1 From red daybeacon “26” to flashing red “28,” follow the NEARBY MEDICAL FACILITIES magenta line on the chart and avoid the shoaling and sub- ABaptist Medical Center Nassau merged pilings to starboard. 1250 S. 18th St., Fernandina Beach, FL 32034, Just past flashing red “28” (about Mile 724), you will 904-321-3500 pass Amelia City, a small waterside hamlet tucked into a bend on the east side of the river. You will see bulkheads, some private docks and a few houses. Inside the marsh, past the bulkhead area, are more houses. The shallowest part of the south Amelia River is ICW: Mile 720 to Mile 735 between red daybeacon “34” and red daybeacon “36.” NAVIGATION: Use Chart 11489. Just southwest of the Although charted at 9 feet in May 2014, there is around Jackson Creek entrance to the Amelia River (near Mile 6 feet of water at extreme low tide. Favor the green side 720), the ICW turns south and leaves the Amelia River between red daybeacon “34” and flashing green “37.” for Kingsley Creek. The Kingsley Creek Railroad Swing Head toward red daybeacon “36” and follow the magenta Bridge (5-foot closed vertical clearance, normally open line, rounding red daybeacon “38” and green daybeacon except for train traffic) and the Kingsley Creek Twin “39.” The charted 7- to 8-foot depths are the best you will Bridges, fixed high-level highway bridges carrying U.S. get through here. Follow the magenta line on your chart A1A (65-foot vertical clearances), span the ICW at Mile carefully around red daybeacon “42,” then favor green 720.7. The high-level bridges here are unofficially consid- daybeacon “43” rather than flashing red “44.” The charted ered to be among the “lowest” of the 65-foot bridges on red daybeacon at the entrance to the cut just north of Mile the ICW; expect no more than 64 feet at high tide. If in 730 has been renumbered as “46A,” according to the 39th doubt, check the clearance boards and go through at half edition of the chart dated spring 2014. tide. With the wide tidal range (7 feet), currents can be Since this is such a changeable area, remember to be on unexpectedly strong here. the alert for shoaling and the possibility that there may be Although the railroad bridge is usually open, trains additional aids in place when you make passage here. New hauling logs to the area’s two paper mills can delay your charts do not have a magenta line drawn along the route journey. The bridge gives no warning when it is going to across Nassau Sound. The current may be very strong, close, and it does not have a VHF radio. If you are in this so watch your set and drift; slow boats may have to crab area and you hear train whistles, be aware that the bridge across. There is a fixed bridge (15-foot vertical clearance) could close as you approach it. After passing beneath the across Nassau Sound’s ocean inlet, at the southern end of bridges, you could see either a wide expanse of water or Amelia Island. mud flats on either side of the channel, depending on the Anchorage: As the chart clearly shows, the ICW state of the tide. channel hugs the Amelia Island shore just south of Amelia Dockage: Amelia Island Yacht Basin, in a cove just City. There is an anchorage just north of Mile 726 off the north of the bridges to the east past green daybeacon entrance to Alligator Creek. Enter by turning to the north- “13,” is a full-service marina (including gas and diesel) east between red daybeacon “36” and flashing green “37.” with haul-out capabilities that welcomes transients. The However, be careful; its entrance is shallow, carrying only FERNANDINA BEACH TO ST. JOHNS RIVER TO ST. JOHNS BEACH FERNANDINA narrow channel leading to the marina may look ques- 6-foot depths at low water, and then increasing to 8-foot tionable, but locals report good depths, particularly after depths off Alligator Creek. Tugboats have been observed a dredging project a few years ago increased low-tide taking a shortcut through this anchorage area at high tide. depths to 5.5 feet. Contact marina personnel on VHF Channel 16 for current channel depths. Amelia Island Yacht Basin is a good choice in strong winds when other ■ LOWER AMELIA ISLAND marinas may be too exposed, but transient space (30 slips) fills quickly in bad weather, so call ahead. They also have an on-site restaurant The Galley Bar and Grille The lower portion of Amelia Island is home to a large (904-261-7447). and lovely resort community, Amelia Island Plantation. The resort still hosts several major annual tennis tourna- Amelia City to Fort George River— ments. No dockage is available on the premises, however. Mile 725 to Mile 735 The closest place to stay is Amelia Island Yacht Basin near NAVIGATION: Use Chart 11489. South from the bridges Mile 721, described earlier. The island is also the site of an to flashing red “14,” shoaling reduces depths along the oceanfront Ritz-Carlton Hotel. west side of the channel to 5- to 8-foot depths. In the ICW 88 SOUTHERN 2015 WATERWAY GUIDE