YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the Southern Caucasus 2022

Small Groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 13)

Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the Southern Caucasus itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

When I think of Georgia and Armenia, I imagine medieval cities carved into mountainous vistas, remnants of the legendary Silk Road, and the warmth and hospitality of the Georgian and Armenian people. That’s why I love to see how they live, work, and play in rural communities like Tserovani, a former refugee camp that is home to more than 8,000 internally displaced people from South Ossetia, a contested state along the Georgia/Russia border. You’ll have the rare opportunity to experience A Day in the Life of this Georgian settlement village and witness its transformation into a small village. After a stroll through the village, you’ll meet with the head of a foundation that seeks to empower local women and youth.

But nothing compares with the stories I hear directly from the local people. You’ll hear their dramatic personal experiences as refugees who lived in South Ossentia, the challenges of starting over in the settlement, and why they decided to remain in Tserovani after so many years. In Armenia, you’ll also hear from a single mother about her experience raising a child out of wedlock in a country with extremely conservative views on family structure.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 8-16 travelers (average 13) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the Southern Caucasus adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For further peace of mind, please know that we are EXTENDING our Risk-Free Booking Policy through 12/31/21. Learn more at www.oattravel.com/risk-free-booking.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Freedom to Personalize Your Experience ...... 6 Grand Circle Foundation...... 8 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 9

GEORGIA & ARMENIA: ANCIENT LANDS Clothing Suggestions ...... 53 OF THE SOUTHERN CAUCASUS Suggested Packing Lists ...... 54 Your Adventure at a Glance: Electricity Abroad ...... 57 Where You’re Going, What it Costs, Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 59 and What’s Included ...... 10 Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 12 Pre-Trip Extension ...... 28 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE Post-Trip Extension ...... 33 Culture & Points to Know ...... 62 Dates & Prices ...... 37 Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More ...... 68 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 38 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Visas Required ...... 38 Georgia...... 71 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 41 Facts, Figures, & National Holidays ...... 71 Vaccines Required ...... 42 Armenia ...... 73 Money Matters: Local Currency & Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 73 Tipping Guidelines...... 45 Azerbaijan ...... 75 Top Three Tips ...... 45 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 75 How to Exchange Money ...... 46 Azerbaijan: A Brief History ...... 76 Tipping Guidelines...... 48 Russia ...... 77 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 49 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 77 Optional Tours ...... 49 Communications ...... 50 RESOURCES Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 52 Suggested Reading ...... 80 Your Luggage...... 53 Suggested Film & Video ...... 82

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 85 Notes...... 86 Map ...... 91

3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in Georgia and Armenia

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 8-16 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 13)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 16 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel or a reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are visiting, hospitality. so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive—the stories, food, OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES customs, hidden treasures and more. With 36 regional offices around the world, we are perfectly poised to leverage our local AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS relationships to deliver an excellent experience Engage with local people through visits to and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ studios; by our team in Istanbul. school visits; Home-Hosted meals; and more.

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4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Georgia & Armenia adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT A DAY IN THE LIFE GCF was established in 1992 to help change Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like people’s lives in the world where we live, to live here?” when you visit new lands? Let’s work, and travel. To date, we have pledged or find out during your O.A.T. A Day in the Life, an donated $200 million worldwide. exclusive, immersive experience that places you in the heart of a community where you’ll meet By investing in the places we explore—including various people where they live, work, and play; local schools, cooperatives, or arts centers—we visit the neighborhood school; lend a hand with hope to give locals the skills and confidence they daily chores; and break bread with our hosts. need to become leaders of their generation and preserve their heritage for many years to come. During our NEW A Day in the Life experience of We’re proud to play a part in preserving precious the Tserovani refugee settlement for displaced locales like the Bryggen waterfront district of people from South Ossetia (a contested state Bergen, a living example of the glory days of the along the Georgia/Russia border), we’ll meet Hanseatic League, and supporting villages like with the head of a foundation that seeks to Harmi in Estonia, whose once-struggling school empower local women and youth, learn about is now a center of community life. local industry at an enamel-making workshop, and hear about the plight of the Ossetians CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS when we share lunch with a local family. Every culture has its joys and achievements, and we celebrate them all. But every place also HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES has its challenges, and to gloss over them would Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds not do justice to those whose stories need to be engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the told—nor to you, as a traveler who deserves more things that can happen across a kitchen table, than a sugar-coated version of things. So our Trip so we’ll break into groups of 4-5 to join a local Experience Leaders will lead frank discussions on family in their home for a snack or a meal. controversial issues, and introduce you to people This is a rare opportunity to witness family whose stories will expand your understanding. life, learn local customs, and taste some home-cooked fare. For example, we’ll meet with a single Armenian mother to talk about her experience having and On this adventure, we’ll have two opportunities raising a child out of wedlock in a country with to experience the hospitality for which Georgian extremely conservative traditions around the people are known. First, we’ll enjoy a traditional family structure. We’ll discuss the evolution Home-Hosted Lunch with some local villagers of Armenians’ attitudes toward non-nuclear in a 200-year-old house near Vardzia. Then, families over the last 5-6 years and hear about we’ll have a lesson on how to make authentic our speaker’s decision to build her career khinkali—meat-filled dumplings—and savor the before starting a family of her own. fruits of our labor during a Home-Hosted Lunch at a village home in Tsdo.

5 You're in control with THE FREEDOM TO PERSONALIZE YOUR EXPERIENCE Exclusively with O.A.T. Your Choice. Your Adventure. Your Way.

It’s your adventure, so why not make it exactly what you want it to be? We offer an exclusive variety of options that let you tailor your adventure so it’s completely your own. In fact, O.A.T. is the only travel company to offer this level of flexibility and choice for a truly personalized experience.

PRE- OR POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS 2. Great value: All extensions include Every O.A.T. adventure offers at least one accommodations, daily breakfast, and optional pre-trip and one post-trip extension. airport transfers. Here’s why more than 55% of O.A.T. travelers 3. Continuity and camaraderie: You’ll usually choose to take a pre- or post-trip extension: travel with the same Trip Experience 1. You’ll maximize your discoveries—often Leader who leads your main trip, enjoying in an even smaller group than your main more of his or her insider expertise—and adventure (on average, 6 travelers with a more time to bond with the group. dedicated Trip Experience Leader)—and take advantage of your included airfare.

Optional Extensions offered with your Europe adventure

Azerbaijan: Baku & Shaki Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the 5 nights pre-trip from $1695 Russian & Soviet Empires 4 nights post-trip from $1495

Old Town, Baku, Azerbaijan View of Kremlin from Moskva River, Moscow, Russia

6 ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATER Other O.A.T. Stopovers are available. If the city Extending your time abroad—with us or you’re interested in is not offered, our Regional on your own—is the best way to broaden Adventure Counselors can arrange your airfare. your experience. It’s also a practical way to COMBINE ADVENTURES maximize the value of the international airfare You’re already overseas. Why not see more and covered in your main itinerary. maximize your value by avoiding the cost and Expand Your Discoveries Before or After length of another international flight? Here’s Your Adventure why 2,250 O.A.T. travelers combined two or Arrive early in the first destination on your more adventures in 2019: pre-trip extension or main adventure, or stay • Save a total of $600-$3000 per person when later in the last city on your main adventure or you combine two adventures compared to the post-trip extension. By coming early, you can cost of taking each trip separately. rest after your flight and adjust—with time to explore. By staying later, you have extra time • Apply the 5% or 6% Frequent Traveler Credit to relax, pack, or continue exploring. you earn on your first trip to your second trip. • Sir Edmund Hillary Club members save an This option lets you take advantage of our extra $250-$350 per person when booking lower group rates, with prices from $75 per multiple trips in a calendar year. person per night—including accommodations, private airport transfer, and daily breakfast. • Our Regional Adventure Counselors make all the arrangements for a seamless experience. • Arrive early in Tbilisi for $125 per Combine this trip with our Morocco Sahara person, per night Odyssey adventure—for a total cost of $5,790- • Arrive early in Baku on the Azerbaijan pre- 8,390 per person—and save $900-1,300 per trip extension for $75 per person, per night person versus taking each trip separately. • Conclude your main trip with more time AIR PREFERENCES in Yerevan for $100 per person, per night 54% of our travelers customize their air • Remain in Moscow after your Russia post- itineraries: trip extension for $100 per person, per night • Choose your departure city and airline Accommodations are at the same hotels where you begin or end the main trip and optional • Depart from one city and return to another extensions, so transitions will be seamless. • Upgrade to Premium Economy or NEW! Stopover in any major Business Class international city PERSONALIZED PRIVATE ADVENTURES Travelers with O.A.T. airfare have the Travel on a private departure with as few as opportunity to Stopover in popular cities. five travelers and your own Trip Experience Your price includes 3 nights accommodations, Leader. An additional cost will apply depending daily breakfasts, and roundtrip private airport on the number of travelers in your group. transfers. Here are a few popular destinations:

• Istanbul: $795 per person • Munich or Warsaw: $895 per person • Dubai: $945 per person

7 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

GIVING BACK TO THE WORLD WE TRAVEL Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more than Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family $200 million to projects around the world. Foundation, as a means to give back to the world that had already given us so JOIN OUR GENEROUS TRAVELERS much. We’ve pledged or donated more We consider each and every one of our travelers than $200 million worldwide to support to be partners in our worldwide giving. the education of young people and the Some travelers, however, are so inspired by preservation of international treasures the schools and villages they visit, they are and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. compelled to give more. In fact, our travelers have donated more than $1 million in 2019 Of course, none of this would be possible alone. And because we have no administrative without your help. A portion of the costs, 100% of donations are used to help proceeds of every adventure is donated to change people’s lives. Grand Circle Foundation—so just as your life will be enriched by the discoveries BETTER OUR OWN COMMUNITIES— you’ll make on your journey, you’ll also ALL AROUND THE WORLD help to enrich the lives of the people you’ll In addition to the destinations where we travel, meet along the way. we strive to better the communities where Thank you for traveling with us, and for we work—from our headquarters in Boston helping to change people’s lives. to our 36 offices around the world. In Boston, more than 99% of our associates participate Love and peace, in community service each year. Worldwide, nearly all of our offices organize annual community service events of their own. Harriet R. Lewis Chair, Grand Circle Foundation How you can help To learn more about ongoing Foundation projects, you can sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, the Inside Scoop, at www.oattravel.com/community/the- inside-scoop. When you do, you’ll not only receive updates on Grand Circle Foundation, but the latest news and discoveries on all things Grand Circle and Overseas Adventure Travel.

SCAN ME See how Grand Circle Foundation is giving back in this video Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will take you www.grandcirclefoundation.org directly to the video.

8 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in Georgia and Armenia—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE … FREE Single Supplements: We don’t charge The leader in solo-friendly a single supplement on this adventure and travel for Americans—by optional trip extensions—a savings of $600- the numbers $1,200 per person compared to other travel companies. But single spaces fill quickly, so early reservations are advised. More than 50% of all O.A.T. travelers are women who travel solo Travel Solo, But Never Alone: On average, half of your group will also be traveling In 2022, we’re offering 30,000 independently, so it’s easier to forge special singles spaces across all O.A.T. bonds as you experience unforgettable adventures. That’s 86% more than moments together during your adventure. offered in 2019 Plus, your Trip Experience Leader can help connect you with fellow travelers who share your common interests. 92% of our 30,000 single spaces have FREE Single Supplements. The You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your remaining 8% have the lowest single dedicated local Trip Experience Leader (a supplements in the industry. resident of Georgia or Armenia), and the expertise of our regional office team in In 2022, we’re offering 25 exclusive Istanbul. women’s departures on some of our most popular itineraries Single Space: In 2022, we have 256 single spaces, with up to 8 single spaces per departure. See available FREE single space at www.oattravel.com/gaa2022. NEW! 101+ SCAN ME Tips for Solo Women Travelers This complimentary, 96-page booklet is a comprehensive collection of savvy tips specifically for seasoned women travelers going solo. Learn about safety for solos, packing like a pro, the best travel apps, self-care on the road, and more. Scan this code to view an online copy or to request one by mail.

9 The lowest price and per diems in the travel industry—guaranteed!

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Small groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 13)

Explore in a small group of 8-16 32 meals—14 breakfasts, 10 lunches, FROM PER DAY DAYS • • travelers (average group size of 13) and 8 dinners (including 2 Home- $ $ Hosted meals) 5695 356 16 • International airfare, airport transfers, government taxes, fees, and airline fuel • 25 small group activities Including international airfare surcharges unless you choose to make Services of a local O.A.T. Trip your own air arrangements • FREE Single Supplement Experience Leader All land transportation and 1 • Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and internal flight • luggage porters Maximize Your Accommodations for 14 nights • • 5% Frequent Traveler Credit toward Discoveries & Value your next adventure

Optional extensions: SCAN ME Azerbaijan: Baku & Shaki Watch our #1 most popular video 5 nights pre-trip from $1695 Travel from only $339 per night for this adventure Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover Russian & Soviet Empires the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will take you directly to the video. 4 nights post-trip from $1495 Travel from only $374 per night

Khor Virap Monastery, Armenia (with Mount Ararat over the Turkish border)

Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the Southern Caucasus

10 Tsdo gi To/From U.S. e Stepantsminda Itinerary Summary azb POST-TRIP EXTENSION Internal flight K RUSSIA C a u c a s u Moscow Land route s M o Cruise route u n t Pre-trip extension: 5 nights in Azerbaijan: a i 040Miles n s RUSSIA Baku & Shaki Tsero van Gori i Telavi Borjomi UKRAINE KAZAKHSTAN DAYS DESTINATION Tbilisi G Sighnaghi E O C R G A Black a I A la s 1 Fly to Tbilisi, Georgia za Sea S p ni e i a a GEORGIA n Vardzia Cave Monastery K ura (M AZERBAIJAN tk Yerevan va ARMENIA ri) TURKEY 2-5 Tbilisi A A Z TURKEY R E PRE-TRIP EXTENSION C M R a 6-7 Borjomi E B s N p I GEORGIA RUSSIA A A i Tbilisi a I n J Shaki 8-9 Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) S Lake A A Lahic e Sevan N R a M Yerevan E AZERBAIJAN Baku Geghard Monastery N 10-11 Sighnaghi Garni IA Gobustan Khor Virap 12-15 Fly to Yerevan, Armenia

What to Expect 16 Return to U.S.

Post-trip extension: 4 nights in Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the Russian & Soviet Empires Pacing: 5 locations in 15 days with an overland drive of 6 hours and 1 internal flight of about 1 hour Physical requirements: Travel along a steep, winding mountain road to and from Kazbegi in the Greater Caucasus; an elective 45-minute hike in Vardzia is on rocky, steep terrain Flight Time: Travel time will be 12-18 hours and will most likely have one connection View all physical requirements at www.oattravel.com/gaa2022 Arrive Early, Stay Later Prices below include accommodations, daily breakfast, and private airport Georgia and Armenia: The O.A.T. Difference transfer. • Arrive early in Tbilisi for $125 per Unbeatable Value: Travel at the lowest per diems in the industry, with 25 small person, per night group activities and 32 included meals. • Arrive early in Baku on the Azerbaijan pre-trip extension for $75 per person, People-to-People Experiences: Meet a master felt-maker in his workshop and per night join a Georgian family in their village home for a Home-Hosted Lunch, which • Conclude your main trip with more time includes a lesson on making khinkali, the traditional Georgian soup dumplings. in Yerevan for $100 per person, per night O.A.T. Exclusives: Learn about the contested South Ossetia region, and the war that displaced thousands of its citizens, during a NEW A Day in the Life • Remain in Moscow after your Russia post-trip extension for $100 per person, of Georgia’s settlement village of Tserovani. Plus, we’ll meet with locals to per night discuss timely Controversial Topics, including the political tug-of-war between Georgia’s pro-West and pro-Russia parties, the role of women in Georgia’s male- dominated society, and Armenia’s changing attitudes toward unwed mothers.

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/gaa2022

11 Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the Southern Caucasus

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 5 nights in Azerbaijan: Baku & Shaki

Day 1 Depart U.S. Day 5 Overland to Shaki • Juma Mosque • Home-Hosted Lunch in Lahic Village Day 2 Arrive in Istanbul, Turkey • Fly to Baku, Azerbaijan Day 6 Kish Albanian Church • Khan Palace • Conversation about Armenia & Day 3 Explore Baku • Visit Heydar Azerbaijan conflict Alyev Center Day 7 Transfer to Tbilisi, Georgia • Day 4 Martyr’s Lane Visit • Open-Air Join main trip Museum of Gobustan

Day 1 Depart U.S. Upon arrival, you will check in and receive your room assignment. We stay in Tbilisi for You depart the U.S. for your flight to Tbilisi, three nights—and our hotel will most likely be Georgia. The particulars of your arrival overseas situated in the heart of the Georgian capital, will be detailed with your flight itinerary. within easy walking distance of Tbilisi’s Old Town. On-site amenities may include Day 2 Arrive in Tbilisi, Georgia a restaurant and bar, and typical rooms are • Destination: Tbilisi air-conditioned and include a minibar, satellite • Accommodations: Courtyard by Marriott TV, wireless Internet access, and a private bath Tbilisi or similar with hair dryer.

Afternoon/Evening: You’ll arrive in Tbilisi The remainder of the day is free, with dinner sometime in the late afternoon, depending on on your own. You can dine at the hotel’s your specific flight arrangements. An O.A.T. restaurant, or ask your Trip Experience Leader representative will arrange for your transfer to recommend a café in Old Town. You can to your hotel—a ride of about 30 minutes, also begin exploring the Georgian capital depending on traffic. Here we’ll be joined by independently, or retire to your room to rest for travelers who took our optional Azerbaijan: Baku tomorrow’s discoveries. & Shaki pre-trip extension.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 Day 3 Explore Mount Mtatsminda • Visit would conquer Tbilisi, with Arab, Ottoman, Georgia National Museum Mongol, and Russian forces each leaving behind their distinctive cultural mark. • Destination: Tbilisi • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner After witnessing evidence of the conquering • Accommodations: Courtyard by Marriott cultures from high above the city, we’ll take the Tbilisi or similar funicular back down the mountain to discover it up close as we walk back toward our hotel. Activity Note: The Georgia National Museum is As you navigate the spider web of cobblestone closed on Mondays. streets, keep an eye out for Tbilisi’s eclectic Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel mix of architectural styles. Our Trip Experience beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American Leader will point out popular spots for lunch options available. during our stroll.

Morning: Around 9am, our small group will Lunch: On your own around 12:30pm in gather for the first time and meet with our Trip Old Town. You can choose from many cafés Experience Leader for a Welcome Briefing at and restaurants in the area or ask your Trip our hotel. During this 45-minute briefing, we’ll Experience Leader where to find khinkali, introduce each other and review our itinerary flavorful Georgian dumplings. in more detail (including any changes that may Afternoon: Around 1:45pm, we’ll make need to occur). Our Trip Experience Leader will our way to the Georgian National Museum, also discuss logistics, safety and emergency approximately 15 minutes away on foot. For procedures, and answer any questions we may richer insights into life in the Caucasus, we’ll have. Then, we’ll board a bus bound for Mount view exhibits on Georgia’s national dress to Mtatsminda (or Holy Mountain). Upon arrival, learn why it varies by region and its significance we’ll board a funicular for the 1,640-foot in Georgian culture. We’ll also spend time vertical climb to the top, where we’ll enjoy the at the Soviet Occupation Exhibition Hall to sweeping views of Tbilisi with the Caucasus get a glimpse of life in Georgia during the Mountains in the distance. seven-decade long Soviet rule that ended in Legend has it that the Georgian capital was 1991. Artifacts that shed light on the repressive founded by a fifth-century king who was nature of Soviet rule include extensive files on hunting in the forest with a falcon. When his “rebellious” Georgian public figures ordered to hunting bird fell into a hot springs and was be exiled or shot. boiled alive, the king decided to build a city over Our museum visit concludes around 3pm, and the steaming waters and he named it Tbilisi, the remainder of the afternoon is yours. You which means “warm place” in Georgian. True may choose to remain at the museum, explore or not, by the sixth century Tbilisi found itself more of the city independently, or return to our at the crossroads of the ancient Silk Road, hotel to rest. and caravans laden with silk and gold passed through the Georgian capital while journeying Dinner: Around 6:45pm, we’ll sit down to between Asia and Europe. But the prized several courses of traditional Georgian dishes location had a downside—a wave of invaders during a Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant. We hope everyone enjoys their meal, because

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 Georgian take great pride in their homeland’s However, the tiny, fledgling republic also relies reputation for culinary excellence. We’ll get on its much larger neighbor for economic back to the hotel by around 8:30pm. support—and this impossible balancing act has sparked discord in the halls of parliament. Evening: On your own to relax in your room after our hearty meal. Or you can head to one of The faces of Georgia’s sparring political the city’s trendy bars and nightspots. factions are Mikheil Saakashvili, a pro-Western reformer who founded Georgia’s United Day 4 Explore Tbilisi • Controversial National Movement (UNM) party and served Topic: Western or Russian? The fight for as president from 2004 to 2013, and Bidzina Georgia’s political future with a public Ivanishvili, a billionaire oligarch and one-time policy expert prime minister whose ruling Georgian Dream-Democratic Georgia party opposes both • Destination: Tbilisi UNM and Saakashvili. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner A longtime human rights advocate, Saakashvili • Accommodations: Courtyard by Marriott led the peaceful Rose Revolution in 2003, Tbilisi or similar which resulted in the ousting of then-president Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s activities (and long-time Soviet loyalist) Eduard include a conversation with a local public Shevardnadze. Saakashvili was soon elected policy expert about the Controversial Topic president in his place, and his two terms were of the ongoing battle between Georgia’s marked by unprecedented economic growth pro-Western and pro-Russian political averaging 7% annually, significant drops in parties. This conversation will shed light on state corruption, prosecution of oligarchs, Georgia’s meteoric rise from Soviet republic and pro-NATO and pro-European Union (EU) to Western-leaning democracy and reveal the policies. political and economic complexities that keep the country in Russia’s orbit. Read more about But his presidential tenure was not without this activity below. controversy: In 2006, Russia—the largest consumer of Georgian wines—suddenly Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel halted all imports. The move delivered a major beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American blow to Georgia’s economy, and Saakashvili options available. denounced it as retribution for his pro-West policies. Two years later, the two countries Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll walk about 15 went to war over South Ossetia, a former minutes to the headquarters of the Georgian autonomous republic within Georgia. As a Foundation for Strategic and International result, Russia invaded South Ossetia, adding Studies, a think tank dedicated to improving the region to a list of occupied Georgian public policy decision-making in Georgia. territory that already included Abkhazia, which Upon arrival, we’ll meet a member of the Russia claimed in 1993. Both regions are now organization who will lead an hour-long recognized as independent states by Russia conversation about a Controversial Topic: the and a small selection of satellite countries ongoing battle between Georgia’s pro-Western (including Venezuela, Syria, and Nicaragua), and pro-Russian political parties. As a one-time causing international friction. This ongoing Soviet republic, Georgia is wary of getting encroachment on Georgian territory occupation too close to its former communist overlord.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

14 is known as “continuous borderization”; today, of infiltrating the parliamentary computer 20% of Georgian territory is under Russian system and inundating users with pictures of control. Russia’s prime minister blamed Saakashvili. Saakashvili for the South Ossetia conflict and Although the Georgian constitution prohibits suggested that the two countries would be Saakashvili from serving a third presidential at odds for as long as Saakashvili remained term, his supporters began encouraging him in office. in October 2020 to run for prime minister As Saakashvili’s presidency drew to a close, and return Georgia to the “glory days” of a Bidzina Ivanishvili founded the Georgian Dream decade ago. party to challenge UNM in the 2013 presidential Our speaker will spend approximately 15 election. Georgian Dream’s ideology has been minutes explaining Georgia’s warring political described as nebulous at best—its supporters factions and contentious relationship with are attracted not to a specific platform, but to Russia. Afterward, we’ll have about 45 minutes the charismatic Ivanishvili, as well as to the to ask any questions we may have before party’s opposition to UNM and its promise to boarding a bus bound for Europe Square, strengthen Georgia’s ties with Russia. the city’s stately urban heart, where our city Georgian Dream’s presidential candidate won tour begins. the 2013 election with 62% of the vote, and the Around 10am, we’ll make our way up the new government made quick work of bringing Metekhi Plateau to view Tbilisi’s Old Town from criminal charges against Saakashvili, which across the Mtkvari River. You might spot the the United States and the EU condemned as metallic sheen of the Mother of Georgia statue politically motivated. In response, Saakashvili in the distance. Built in 1958 to commemorate gave up his Georgian citizenship and fled to Tbilisi’s 1,500th anniversary, this 65-foot tall Ukraine. By the time his case went to court in aluminum-coated figure towers over the city 2014, Ukraine had granted him citizenship and from atop Sololaki Hill. The statue shows a made him the governor of the country’s Odessa woman in traditional Georgian dress holding District. As of 2020, Saakashvili is the head of a bowl of wine in one hand and brandishing a Ukraine’s National Reform Council. large sword in the other. The wine is for those In the years since Ivanishvili’s Georgian Dream who come as friends. The sword is for those party rose to power, Russo-Georgian relations who don’t. A cable car will carry us over the have indeed improved as promised: The 2006 Mtkvari River and right to the statue’s base. wine ban has been eased, Russian tourism in From there, we’ll walk into the heart of Old Georgia has skyrocketed (nearly 1.4 Russians Town to continue our discoveries. visited the country in 2018), and Georgia turned Tbilisi has long been at the crossroads of many a blind eye to Russia’s controversial foray different faiths. We’ll learn more about its into Crimea. Troubled by their government’s religious openness at the beginning and end increasingly cozy relationship with a one-time of our walk, with stops at a mosque where occupier, more than 20,000 protesters took to both Sunni and Shia Muslims pray, as well as the streets of Tbilisi in 2019 to call for reforms. Sioni (Zion) Cathedral, home to the Cross of That same year, Russian hackers were accused St. Nino, the woman who spread Christianity across Georgia in the fourth century. We’ll also witness a popular waterfall in the middle

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15 of Old Town and visit the ancient district of Day 5 A Day in the Life of the settlement Abanotubani to see the cluster of dome-roofed village of Tserovani brick bathhouses built over the hot springs that • Destination: Tbilisi gave Tbilisi its name. For a taste of everyday life, we’ll explore an underground bazaar where • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch locally made crafts, wines, spices, and jams • Accommodations: Courtyard by Marriott are sold. Tbilisi or similar Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s activities Lunch: On your own beginning around 1pm. feature our NEW A Day in the Life experience of Your Trip Experience Leader can recommend the Tserovani settlement for displaced people a spot for lunch, or maybe you could just from South Ossetia. We’ll meet with the head grab some khachapuri, the delicious local of a foundation that seeks to empower local cheese-stuffed bread. It’s hard to make a bad women and youth, learn about local industry at dining choice in Tbilisi, but the best dishes an enamel-making workshop, and hear about are usually found in the smaller cafés and about the plight of the Ossetians when we share tavern-style cellar restaurants. lunch with a local family. Because the facilities Afternoon: With so much to see and do in in Tserovani are so small, we’ll split into two Tbilisi, you can use this free time to explore an groups for our morning activities, and two or area of interest that appeals to you most—the three groups for lunch. Read more about this museums, ancient churches, café culture, craft experience below. shops, and more. You could wander through one Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel of the city’s 19th-century neighborhoods, or beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American walk across the Peace Bridge, the bow-shaped options available. glass and steel structure spanning the Kura River, to visit Rike Park. This expansive public Morning: Around 9am, we’ll board a minibus recreational area has winding trails, dancing and travel like locals do to Tserovani, a fountains, and futuristic buildings. And it’s refugee settlement-turned-village where supposedly all laid out in an abstract map of our NEW A Day in the Life experience will Georgia. A walk across the bridge will also take take place. Tserovani is home to more than you right near the historic Armenian district of 8,000 internally displaced people (IDPs) Avlasbari, one of the oldest areas of the city. from South Ossetia, a contested state along the Georgia/Russia border. In 2008, Ossetian Dinner: Around 7:15pm, we’ll drive to a local separatists and Russians joined forces restaurant, where we’ll enjoy a traditional meal against Georgia in a war over South Ossetia’s and a lively folk music and dance show. sovereignty. Up to 25,000 Ossetians are Evening: After our dinner show concludes believed to have been displaced in Georgia around 9pm, you could keep the evening within a matter of months, and settlements like going at a local wine bar. As the world’s oldest Tserovani sprang up practically overnight to wine-producing country, Georgians are fiercely accommodate them. proud of their wines. A great place to discover Upon arrival in Tserovani around 9:30am, we’ll what makes them so special is a spot called Vino take a brief stroll to better acquaint ourselves Underground. with the community. Of the 12 settlements that were built in 2008, Tserovani is the largest:

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16 2,000 identical white cottages arranged in an they’ll show us the tricks of the trade, and orderly grid. Over the years, the Tserovani has we’ll have the opportunity to make an enamel transformed from a make-shift settlement pendant of our own. to a tiny, functioning town, complete with Lunch: Our visit to For Better Future concludes an administrative building, grocery store, around noon, at which time we’ll make our way small health clinic, and a school. However, job to local family homes for lunch. The houses in opportunities are virtually non-existent, so Tserovani are very small—typically just over locals must commute to Tbilisi by minibus each 600 square feet, with one or two bedrooms, a day for work. small living area, and a tiny kitchen. Depending Our walk concludes around 10am at the on which families we visit and the size of their headquarters of For Better Future, a homes, we will be split into two or three groups non-governmental organization (NGO) aimed for our meal. at promoting the economic and social welfare The children and young adults will likely be at of displaced Ossetian women and youth. We’ll school and work during our visit, so we’ll be be greeted by the founder, Nana Chkareuli, joining one or two older family members for before splitting into two groups to continue our lunch today. Quarters will be tight but cozy: As discoveries. The first group will remain with we dine on homemade specialties—perhaps Nana to learn more about the foundation’s khachapuri (a bread boat filled with warm mission, and the other will participate in a cheese) or lobiani (bread stuffed with hands-on activity at a nearby enamel factory beans)—we’ll learn about the family’s former operated by For Better Future. After 1 hour, the life in South Ossetia, the challenges of starting groups will switch. over in the settlement, and why they decided to Nana established For Better Future in 2008 remain in Tserovani after so many years. after arriving in Tserovani from the Akhalgori Afternoon: At the conclusion of our meal region of South Ossetia. In addition to teaching around 1:30pm, we’ll bid farewell to our host leadership skills to women and youth in families and begin our return trip to Tbilisi, Tserovani and working to integrate IDPs arriving approximately 30 minutes later. Then, into Georgian society, For Better Future is you’ll have another free afternoon to explore also focused on supporting individuals who independently before we meet up later for remained in Akhalgori. In doing so, Nana hopes dinner. Be sure you don’t leave Tbilisi without her foundation will serve as a link between visiting Narikala Fortress, whose roots go back wayward South Ossetia and the rest of Georgia. to the fourth century. The way it looms over Old One of the foundation’s top goals is to increase Town was no accident. Building it at the river’s local employment opportunities, and we’ll narrowest point, where the rocky banks were witness those efforts firsthand at the enamel closest to each other, made it much easier to workshop. Here, women learn how to make fend off enemy attacks. It was one of the most colorful jewelry, which is eventually sold at fortified and impregnable fortresses in the souvenir shops in Tbilisi. The proceeds pay heyday of the Silk Road. The views of Tbilisi the artisans’ salaries, and any money that is from the battlements of the fortress are superb. left over is re-invested in For Better Future. Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience Depending on the day, three or four women will Leader would be happy to suggest options for be working in the workshop when we arrive; Georgian fare or a taste of home.

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17 Evening: On your own. Enjoy a glass of wine Georgia’s second largest church, Svetitskhoveli at the hotel, begin packing for tomorrow’s Cathedral dates from the eleventh century, and transfer, or ask your Trip Experience Leader to built over an even older early-fourth-century recommend the perfect venue to celebrate your church. Many of Georgia’s medieval monarchs final night in Tbilisi. are buried at Svetitskhoveli—as legend has it that Christ’s robe is buried here, too. Around Day 6 Overland to Borjomi • Ancient 11am, we’ll depart Mtskheta and continue Capital of Mtskheta • Visit Stalin west for another hour to Gori, the Georgian Museum in Gori town where Joseph Stalin was born. Unlike the feelings of deep spirituality one gets in sacred • Destination: Borjomi places like Mtskheta, Gori brings out a wide • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner range of emotions for visitors. At the Stalin • Accommodations: Crowne Plaza Borjomi Museum, we’ll hear about Stalin’s early years in or similar Gori and see items like his death mask, favorite Activity Note: Today, our transfer from Tbilisi winter coat, and last pack of cigarettes—but to Borjomi will involve about a 7-hour bus ride nothing on gulags or purges during Stalin’s (with stops along the way) over roads that may reign. Georgians have a schizophrenic be bumpy or uneven at times. relationship with Stalin. Some consider him one of humanity’s greatest criminals, Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel some are anti-Soviet and pro-Stalin, and beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American some—especially those in Gori—admire him options available. as the hometown hero who defeated the Nazis and shaped world history. Your Trip Experience Morning: We’ll depart the hotel around 9am Leader can tell you about the complex history to begin a westward journey to Borjomi, a of Georgia/Russia relations as we stroll past the resort town in the forested slopes of the Lesser brick house where “Uncle Joe” was born that Caucasus. But we’ll make a few stops along sits beside the museum on our way to lunch. the way, and around 10am, we’ll arrive at Jvari Monastery, the first of two medieval religious Lunch: At 1pm at a local restaurant in Gori, structures (part of the UNESCO World Heritage featuring traditional Georgian cuisine. Site complex of Mtskheta) located at the scenic confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers that Afternoon: Around 2pm, we’ll begin the last we’ll visit. One of holiest sites in the Caucasus, leg of our journey to Borjomi. We’ll arrive at the the iconic Jvari Monastery was built in the sixth resort town celebrated for its mountain scenery century on a hilltop overlooking the ancient and spa water around 3:45pm. Depending on capital of Mtskheta, where Christianity was where we stay, our hotel should be near the declared the official religion of Georgia in AD heart of this riverside resort town known for 337. Mtskheta was capital of the Kingdom of its mineral springs, with amenities that may Georgia from the third century BC up until the include a restaurant, bar, and spa facilities. founding of Tbilisi in the fifth century AD—but Your room may offer wireless Internet, satellite it will always be Georgia’s spiritual heart. A TV, safe, coffee- and tea-making facilities, 10-minute drive will have us there to visit our and private bath with hair dryer. You’ll have second medieval gem, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. a couple of hours of free time to settle in to your room, or walk around the area to admire the scenery of the swift-running river, alpine

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18 forests, and lush green meadows that surround out the Mongols, it was no match for Mother Borjomi. There’s a historic mineral water Nature—less than a century after it was built, park nearby and countless nature trails in an earthquake in 1283 destroyed more than two Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. thirds of the cave city.

Dinner: Around 7pm in the hotel’s restaurant, We’ll spend about 45 minutes exploring the featuring a selection of Georgian dishes. caves and viewing the remaining frescoes of Vardzia before returning to our vehicles by Evening: You’re free to take an evening stroll around 11:30am. After the short drive back to through town, turn in early, or relax outdoors our waiting bus, we’ll set off on a 30-minute with a glass of wine and listen to the wind in the drive to a nearby village for our lunch. forested slopes of the Lesser Caucasus. Lunch: Around 12:15pm, we’ll join some local Day 7 Explore Cave City of Vardzia • villagers in a 200-year-old house and enjoy Community lunch a traditional meal and experience authentic Georgian hospitality. • Destination: Borjomi • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Afternoon: Around 1:30pm, we’ll begin our • Accommodations: Crowne Plaza Borjomi 2-hour drive back to Borjomi, where you’ll have or similar the rest of the day and evening to yourself.

Activity Note: This morning’s visit to Vardzia Dinner: On your own. You can dine at the includes about 45 minutes of hiking over steep hotel or ask your Trip Experience Leader terrain, including up and down stairs. for suggestions on cafés and restaurants in the area. Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American Evening: Yours to relax in the lounge, take options available. a stroll through the small town, or retire to your room. Morning: We’ll leave the hotel around 8:30am and set off for a 2-hour journey deep into the Day 8 Overland to Stepantsminda Kura Valley to Vardzia, a vast 800-year-old monastery complex hewn into the side of a (Kazbegi) • Fortress of Ananuri mountain. Before exploring the caves, we’ll • Destination: Stepantsminda get off our bus and board smaller vehicles for a • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner 15-minute drive up to the site. Vardzia’s origins • Accommodations: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi go back to the twelfth century, when King or similar Giorgi III had these hidden fortifications built Activity Note: Today, our transfer from Borjomi to protect against the invading Mongols. The to Stepantsminda will involve about a 7-hour king’s daughter, the legendary Queen Tamara, bus ride (with stops along the way). The drive then transformed it into a cave monastery on the Georgian Military Highway weaves and holy city with a large church decorated through some of Europe’s largest mountains, with colorful frescoes at its heart. About 2,000 and includes many steep and winding sections resident monks lived in these rock-hewn of road and narrow switchbacks. Travelers dwellings on more than a dozen levels high prone to motion sickness may wish to carry above the valley floor (and a handful of monks medication. remain to this day). But while Vardzia kept

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19 Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel the views of the surroundings. Typical rooms beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American include satellite TV, wireless Internet access, options available. minibar, and private bath. You’ll have time to settle in to your room before we meet later Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll leave Borjomi for dinner. and set our sights on the dramatic peaks of the Greater Caucasus. To reach Stepantsminda, Dinner: Around 7pm at our hotel’s restaurant, we’ll travel along the historic Georgian Military with traditional Georgian cuisine. Highway—a road built by Russian soldiers Evening: Free to rest in your room, have a drink 200 years ago that follows the same winding in the lounge, or walk outside to take in the path used by Silk Road traders and invaders for dramatic mountain scenery—but bring a jacket more than 2,000 years. Around 11:30am, we’ll as it can get quite cold after the sun goes down. make a 45-minute stop at one of Georgia’s most captivating medieval sites, the Fortress of Ananuri. This 13th-century castle complex Day 9 Explore Kazbegi • Controversial perched above turquoise waters was the site of Topic: Women’s role in post-Soviet many bloody battles, and has two 17th-century Georgia • Visit Gergeti Trinity Church • churches within its defensive walls. After our Home-Hosted Lunch visit, we’ll travel for another 15 minutes to a • Destination: Stepantsminda local restaurant for lunch. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Lunch: Around 12:45pm at a restaurant along • Accommodations: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi the Georgian Military Highway, featuring or similar traditional Georgian fare. Exclusive O.A.T. Activities: This morning Afternoon: By 2pm, we’ll continue our scenic we’ll meet with a local business owner and journey to Stepantsminda for another hour community organizer to learn about the before making a brief stop to enjoy the scenic Controversial Topic of the role of women in vistas where a rather unusual structure Georgian society. We’ll also visit a remove stands—the Russia-Georgia Friendship village for a Home-Hosted Lunch and a lesson Monument. With years of simmering tension on making Georgian dumplings Read more between the two neighboring nations, this about these activities below. massive semicircular monument (which was Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel erected by the Soviets in 1983) seems oddly out beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American of place at such an idyllic locale. Then, we’ll options available. drive through the Jvari Pass (at 7,800 feet) on the final leg of our journey to the Greater Morning: We’ll begin our day by looking at Caucasus and should reach our lodgings a complex issue in Georgian culture during in Stepantsminda by about 4:30pm. Still a discussion on the Controversial Topic of referred to as Kazbegi, Stepantsminda is set the role of women in post-Soviet Georgian on a mountainside an elevation of 5,900 feet society. Around 8:30am, our small group will above sea level in a green river valley flanked board our bus and drive about 15 minutes to by towering mountains. Depending on where a nearby hotel. The hotel is run by Shorena we stay, our hotel in Stepantsminda should Sujashvili, who is also the executive director include a restaurant, bar, and terrace to take in of the Kazbegi Local Action Group (LAG),

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20 which works to improve the quality of life of As women in Georgia become more self-reliant, all Kazbegi’s citizens. Ms. Sujashvili has also they’ve begun to reject the idea of men as heads worked for other local aid groups and is thus of household. Men have struggled to accept this well positioned to share with us how women’s shifting power dynamic, which often leads to place in Georgian society has changed—for conflicts within the family unit. The divorce better and for worse—since the fall of the rate has increased by 17% every year since Soviet Union. 2013. What’s more, women in remote areas have been slower to accept Georgia’s changing Throughout most of its history, Georgia has gender roles, either because they truly believe been a deeply traditional and patriarchal in upholding tradition, or because they fear nation. The gender divide became even more retribution from their community if they reject pronounced in the late 20th century, when jobs local norms. As a result, rural women often for men paid significantly more than jobs for struggle with conflicting desires to assert their women, and Soviet propaganda encouraged independence and keep the peace. a traditional family structure. Man made the money, society gave them power, and thus they As a resident of a traditional town, as well as a were considered the heads of the household. small business owner, Ms. Sujashvili has unique Women, while deeply respected as family insights into this complicated issue. During caretakers, were secondary. Their duty was to the hour or so we spend with her, you’ll have bear children, keep the household running, plenty of time to ask her any questions you may and act as the gatekeepers of social values and have about her personal experience as a woman traditions. in Georgia, and about shifting gender norms in general. Since emerging as an independent republic in 2003, however, Georgia has taken several Around 9:45am, we’ll say goodbye to Ms. steps to increase gender equality—including Sujashvili and set off out on the day’s next by passing gender non-discrimination laws activity: a four-wheel-drive through the and ensuring equal access to education. region to view the alpine vistas of the Greater What’s more, post-Soviet economic reforms Caucasus. A highlight will be our drive up to have significantly improved employment the dramatic hilltop setting of the Gergeti opportunities in Georgia: Since 2006, it’s been Trinity Church. The silhouette of this remote ranked as one of the most business-friendly 14th-century church perched on a hill with countries in the world. As a result, women mighty Mount Kazbek in the background are more likely now than ever before to has become one of Georgia’s most iconic find high-paying jobs—particularly in the landmarks. We’ll return to Stepantsminda tourism industry, as more and more foreign by around 11am, and then visit a felt-making visitors discover this once-shy nation. From workshop. We’ll meet with the wool felt cosmopolitan Tbilisi to tourist-friendly master and learn all about this centuries-old countryside, women are achieving financial craft tradition in this mountainous region. independence and gaining self-confidence. But Then, around noon, we’ll depart by this new-found empowerment hasn’t cured four-wheel-vehicles for a 30-minute drive for Georgia of all its patriarchal ills. our Home-Hosted Lunch.

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21 Lunch: Around 1pm in a village home in stand by the ancient process of crushing grapes Tsdo, where we’ll experience the hospitality and letting them ferment below ground in that Georgian are so famous for during earthenware vessels called kvevri. As we enter a Home-Hosted Lunch. And since those into the heart of Kakheti, a region also dotted meat-filled dumplings are such a Georgian with ancient monasteries and hilltop villages, favorite, we’ll have a lesson on how to make we’ll stop for lunch at a local restaurant. authentic khinkali—whose origins are in the Lunch: Around 12:45pm at a restaurant in mountains of Georgia. When we sit down to our Kakheti, with typical Georgian fare. delicious home-cooked Georgian meal, we may wish to ask our gracious hosts what life is like in Afternoon: At about 2pm, we’ll stop in the the Caucasus, especially in such a tiny, remote village of Bodbe to visit the Monastery of St. village of very few inhabitants just across from Nino, one of Georgia’s major pilgrimage sites. the Russian border. Now a nunnery, the hilltop monastic complex with ninth-century roots is the revered burial Afternoon: After saying our farewells around site of St. Nino. Then, it’s just a 10-minute drive 2:30pm, we’ll make the 30-minute drive back to Sighnaghi, the hilltop village where we’ll to our hotel for some free time. You can relax spend the next two nights. Depending on where at the hotel, explore town, or perhaps go for a we stay, our hotel should be close to the town’s nice long nature walk in these scenic mountain historic heart, with amenities that include a surroundings and try to work up another restaurant and bar/lounge area. Rooms should appetite for tonight’s dinner. include wireless Internet access, satellite TV, Dinner: Around 7pm at our hotel’s restaurant, and private bath with hair dryer. We’ll check in with traditional Georgian cuisine. around 3pm and you can have a couple hours to settle in before our small group gathers in Evening: Relax in the bar area, take an evening the lobby at about 5:30pm to begin a walking stroll, or retire to your room to begin packing tour of Old Town. Considered one of Georgia’s for tomorrow’s transfer to Sighnaghi. most picturesque locales, Sighnaghi is enclosed by a fortified wall and has cobblestone streets Day 10 Overland to Sighnaghi • Visit lined with 18th- and 19th-century homes with Bodbe Convent brightly painted balconies. The town’s name • Destination: Sighnaghi comes from a Turkish word meaning “shelter,” • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and the 23 towers of its 18th-century fortress were each named for a nearby village—and • Accommodations: Kabadoni Boutique Hotel could shelter all of its residents in time of or similar danger. We’ll end our walking tour at a local Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel restaurant. beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American options available. Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant in Sighnaghi, with traditional Georgian dishes Morning: Around 8am, we’ll leave the and wine. mountains behind and make our way to eastern Georgia and the rolling vineyards of Kakheti, Evening: After the short walk back to our hotel, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in you are free to retire for the evening or stop at the world. With a wine-making tradition that a local wine bar to try out some of the unique goes back some 8,000 years, many Georgians local vintages.

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22 Day 11 Visit to Telavi • Alaverdi Monastery a stuffed pastry called kada. We’ll depart the • Winery visit center around 4:15pm and should be back at our hotel in Sighnaghi a little after 4:30pm. Then, • Destination: Sighnaghi the rest of the day is yours. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Accommodations: Kabadoni Boutique Hotel Dinner: On your own. Ask your Trip Experience or similar Leader for dining suggestions. A local favorite is Pheasant’s Tears, a winery and restaurant with Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel excellent Georgian food and a wide selection of beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American qveri wines from their own nearby vineyards. options available. Evening: Take an evening stroll through town, Morning: We’ll gather in the lobby around walk the city walls, or watch the sun going 9am and set off on about a 1.5-hour drive to down over the valley with the Greater Caucasus the regional capital of Telavi, where we’ll in the distance. You may wish to retire early and visit a colorful market to mingle with the begin packing for tomorrow’s flight to Armenia. locals and sample a few nuts, dried fruits, and traditional Georgian sweets. Around 11am, we’ll drive another 30 minutes or so to the Alaverdi Day 12 Overland to Tbilisi • Fly to Monastery. Rebuilt many times, the medieval Yerevan, Armenia walled complex dates back to the sixth • Destination: Yerevan century and includes a famous 1,000-year-old • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch wine cellar. And there are a few remaining • Accommodations: Armenia Marriott Hotel resident monks who are keeping Alaverdi’s Yerevan or similar wine-making tradition alive—although seeing Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel a wine bottle that says “Since 1011” does look beginning at 7am, with Georgian and American like a printing error. options available. With our interest in Georgian wines piqued, Morning: After breakfast, we’ll have some we’ll depart Alaverdi around 12:30pm for a time to freshen up before we depart Sighanghi 15-minute drive to one of the region’s many around 10am. Before we head to Armenia, we’ll local wineries. take a 2.5-hour drive back to Tbilisi in time Lunch: Around 12:45pm at a family-owned for a leisurely lunch in the Georgian capital’s winery, where we’ll sample some local vintages Old Town. accompanies by a light lunch of traditional Lunch: Around 1pm, at a local restaurant in Georgian dishes. Tbilisi, with typical Georgian fare. Afternoon: At about 2pm, we’ll continue our Afternoon/Evening: We’ll have some time regional discoveries with a 30-minute drive to to walk around Old Town or revisit a favorite the Nukriani Community Organization, whose shop before we depart around 4pm for the mission is to preserve rural Georgian traditions. 30-minute drive to the airport. With dinner We’ll visit one of the workshops here to learn on your own this evening, you may want to about a trio of favorite Georgian food items: pick something up at the airport, or you can shotis puri, the canoe-shaped Georgian bread; wait until we arrive at our hotel in Yerevan. churchkhela, the candle-shaped Georgian Our flight will leave shortly after 7pm, sweet made with grape juice and walnuts; and

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23 and we should arrive in Yerevan by about Rome. After a 15-minute drive to the “Great 8:30pm. Then, it’s about a 1-hour drive to Cascade,” a decorative system of staircases our hotel. Depending on where we stay, our linking Yerevan’s downtown to the residential hotel will likely be situated in the center of areas of the surrounding hills, we’ll be able Yerevan, within walking distance of shops and to see views of the city sprawled out before restaurants. Hotel amenities should include a us with Mount Ararat in the distance. Around restaurant, bar, and fitness area. Rooms should 9:45am, we’ll take another 15-minute drive include wireless Internet access, satellite TV, to delve into Armenia’s ancient past at the and private bath with hair dryer. Matenadaran, a fortress-like museum and research institute that is one of the largest It may be close to 10pm by now, and if you still repositories of medieval manuscripts in the wish to have dinner, you can go to the hotel’s world. We’ll delve into Armenia’s more recent restaurant, order from room service, or ask past at our next stop, the Genocide Memorial & your Trip Experience Leader to point out a café Museum. We’ll get here about 11:30am and we’ll or restaurant in the area. have about an hour to learn the tragic story the first genocide of the 20th century—when 1.5 Day 13 Explore Yerevan • Controversial million Armenians were exterminated during Topic: The shifting views of non-nuclear the waning days of the Ottoman Empire. After families in Armenia with a single mother • leaving the hilltop complex, we can reflect Visit Genocide Museum on all we’ve seen during 15-minute drive to a restaurant for lunch. • Destination: Yerevan • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Lunch: Around 12:45pm at a local restaurant, • Accommodations: Armenia Marriott Hotel with traditional Armenian dishes. Just like Yerevan or similar Georgia, Armenia was a melting pot of cultures and flavors. Lots of Armenian dishes revolve Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries around eggplant, lamb, bulgur wheat, and a will include the Controversial Topic of single flatbread called lavash. motherhood in Armenia, and how a younger generation is helping to shift long-held Afternoon: After lunch, around 1:45pm, we’ll attitudes of shame surrounding raising a drive 15 minutes to the Ilik Café to meet with child outside of marriage. We’ll talk with a single Armenian mother to talk about the single mother as she shares her own personal Controversial Topic of having and raising a experiences with this issue. Read more about child out of wedlock. Due to the sensitive nature this informative conversation below. of this topic, our speaker has asked that we not use her name. Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 7am, with Armenian and American Historically, family has been one of the most options available. important social and political institutions in Armenian society. Since it was invaded Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll set off by by the Seljuk Turks in 1045, the Armenian bus to explore Yerevan, present-day capital territory has been shuffled from one foreign of the first nation in the world to adopt power to another—forever a geopolitical Christianity as a state religion in AD 301. pawn, never a sovereign nation. During those Yerevan was founded in 782 BC (when it was uncertain centuries, it was the family unit named Erebuni), making it older even than

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24 that maintained Armenian culture, identity, who offers her additional support. And while and sense of belonging. In an effort to keep its traditional beliefs do vary from family to national ethnicity intact, Armenians developed family, she believes that being unmarried with extremely conservative traditions around the children is becoming more socially acceptable family structure. If a woman wanted to have a across the country. During our hour-long child, for example, she would be expected to be conversation, we’ll have around 40 minutes to married first. Any deviation from the nuclear ask our speaker any questions we may have. norm was—while not explicitly against the After our conversation, the rest of the day is law—unacceptable. In some cases, women who free for you to explore independently with chose to have a child without being married dinner on your own. Or you can join your Trip to the father were disowned by their families Experience Leader on an elective activity to visit or hidden from the community—ostracized the Ararat Brandy Factory, home of Armenia’s by shame. legendary cognac—and Winston Churchill’s In 1991, Armenia secured its independence favorite. at long last, but it has struggled to overcome Dinner: On your own. You can ask your Trip years of oppression and to relax its iron grip on Experience to recommend a local restaurant. tradition. Within the last 5 to 6 years, however, there has been a noticeable shift in Armenians’ Evening: Relax with a cocktail at the hotel‘s bar attitude toward non-nuclear families, or head back in your room. But Yerevan is quite especially within its larger cities. Armenia’s pretty at night, and is filled with clubs, pubs, current prime minister, elected in 2018, is and cafés. You could always head to Republic more open-minded than prime ministers of Square and join the throngs who gather each the past, and his liberal views have spurred a night to watch the Singing Fountains show. change in attitudes towards single motherhood, particularly among among the younger Day 14 Lake Sevan • Geghard Monastery generation. This has also had a big impact on and Temple of Garni the large community of Armenian diaspora in both the U.S. and France. While many of these • Destination: Yerevan Armenians are still living abroad, these ex-pats • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner are now more willing to be involved in their • Accommodations: Armenia Marriott Hotel country, passing along their more western Yerevan or similar views to friends and family back home. Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel Our speaker is a prime example of Armenia’s beginning at 7am, with Armenian and American evolving image of single motherhood. A options available. single woman in her early forties, she is an Morning: About 9am, we’ll board our bus and associate sales manager who has thrived in travel east to experience the dramatic natural her work—choosing to build her career before beauty and a few of the medieval monasteries starting a family of her own. While her life, as of that make Armenia such a sought-after yet, does not include a spouse, her young son, destination. First up is Lake Sevan, one of the Areg (which means “sun” in Armenian), was a world’s largest high-altitude freshwater lakes. long-awaited and desired addition to her life. We’ll get there around 10:30am, and take a Fortunately, her family has been accepting of 30-minute boat ride along its blue waters her decision—she even lives with her mother for views of the landscapes and surrounding

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25 mountains. By 11:15am, we’ll leave the lake area Morning: Around 8am, we’ll journey about and head to one of Armenia’s most celebrated 1-hour south to begin our day at an important ancient structures. Armenian pilgrimage destination, the monastery of Khor Virap. Set on a hillock at Lunch: Around 1pm at a restaurant en route the foot of Biblical Mount Ararat, Khor Virap to Geghard, where lunch is followed with a (Armenian for “deep dungeon”) is notable short lesson on making gata, the traditional for holding the future Saint Gregory the Armenian pastry. Illuminator (who later helped turn Armenia Afternoon: Following lunch, we’ll take a 15 into the first Christian nation) in a pit for 13 minute drive and reach Geghard by around years. The first church was built at this holy site 2:15pm. Named for the lance used to wound in AD 642 and the present incarnation dates Jesus at the crucifixion, Geghard began as a from the 17th century. We’ll spend about an small cave chapel in the fourth century, and hour here before setting off on another 1-hour grew into this elaborate monastery complex drive to the country’s premier pilgrimage partially carved into the cliff face of the locale, Echmiadzin Mother Cathedral. Azat River Gorge. Following our visit to this Around 11am, we’ll arrive at Echmiadzin, center remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site, a of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the 15-minute drive will have you thinking you oldest Christian cathedral in the world. Said to left Christian Armenia and arrived in ancient have been built where Christ struck the ground Rome. The Temple of Garni, perched on a cliff with a golden hammer, the original cathedral overlooking the Azat River, is a colonnaded was finished in AD 303. The current one mostly Greco-Roman temple thought to have been dates from the 1600s and is said to contain built in the first century AD. But much remains relics of the holy lance and pieces of Noah’s Ark. unknown about this impressive symbol of During our time here, we’ll also visit Zvartnots, pre-Christian Armenia. We’ll leave Garni an archaeological site with remains of other around 4:15pm and it’s about a 1-hour drive early Christian buildings—which is also part back to Yerevan. of the area’s designation as a UNESCO World Dinner: Around 6:30pm at a local restaurant, Heritage Site. Around 1:30pm, we’ll leave this with traditional Armenian dishes. holy city and have a 30-minute drive back to Yerevan. Evening: You can choose to go out and explore more of Yerevan, or just get a good night’s rest Lunch: On your own in Yerevan. after our long day of discoveries (and to prepare Afternoon: Free to explore independently or for many more tomorrow). rest up before this evening’s festive Farewell Dinner and our last night in Armenia. We’ll Day 15 Khor Virap Monastery • Echmiadzin meet in the lobby around 6pm and take a • Destination: Yerevan 30-minute drive to a local restaurant. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner Dinner: About 6:30pm at a local restaurant, • Accommodations: Armenia Marriott Hotel where we’ll enjoy a traditional Armenian dinner Yerevan or similar accompanied by a duduk (an Armenian oboe) Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel performance of traditional Armenian songs. beginning at 7am, with Armenian and American options available.

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26 Evening: You can continue the festivities in Morning: Depending on your flight schedule, the city, reflect on your discoveries with fellow we will arrange your transfer to the airport for travelers in the hotel’s bar, or begin packing for your return flight to the U.S. or your flight to tomorrow’s morning flights. Moscow to begin your Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the Russian & Soviet Empires post-trip Day 16 Yerevan • Return to U.S. extension. • Included Meals: Breakfast

Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 7am, with Armenian and American options available.

END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 4 nights in Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the Russian & Soviet Empires

Day 1 Fly to Moscow, Russia Day 4 Moscow • Tretyakov Gallery Day 2 Explore Moscow Day 5 Moscow • Return to U.S. Day 3 Moscow • Kremlin grounds • Optional Imperial Russia: The Kremlin Armory tour

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27 PRE-TRIP Azerbaijan: Baku & Shaki

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations: 3 nights in Baku at the » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Boutique 19 Hotel or similar and 2 nights in Experience Leader Shaki at the Sheki Saray Hotel or similar » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 12 meals—5 breakfasts, 4 lunches, luggage porters and 3 dinners » All transfers » 10 small group activities

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Neither Europe nor Asia, Azerbaijan is the link between the most influential empires of the world. From ancient mosques to grand palaces and gaseous mud volcanoes, there’s much to discover in this multi-faceted land and former Soviet republic nestled between the Caspian Sea and Caucasus Mountains. Begin your travels to Georgia & Armenia with an exploration of this “country at a crossroads.”

Day 1 Depart U.S. Dinner: On your own—check with your Trip Experience Leader for suggestions. Afternoon/Evening: You depart today on your overnight flight from the U.S. to Baku, Evening: You’re free to explore Baku by night, Azerbaijan, via Istanbul, Turkey. enjoy a cocktail with fellow travelers at the hotel bar, or retire early to rest up before Day 2 Arrive in Istanbul, Turkey • Fly to tomorrow’s discoveries. Baku, Azerbaijan Day 3 Explore Baku • Visit Heydar • Destination: Baku Alyev Center • Accommodations: Boutique 19 Hotel or similar • Destination: Baku • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner Afternoon: Arrive in Baku today, where an • Accommodations: Boutique 19 Hotel O.A.T. representative will meet you at the or similar airport and help you transfer to your hotel. Depending on where we stay, our hotel should Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel be conveniently located in the city center and beginning at 7am and featuring hot and cold offer easy access to local shops and restaurants. selections. Typical room amenities will include Morning: Around 9:30am, we’ll gather as a air-conditioning, satellite TV, wireless Internet small group for the first time, and meet with access, mini bar, safe, coffee- and tea-making our Trip Experience Leader for a Welcome facilities, and private bath with hair dryer.

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28 Briefing at the hotel. During this briefing, fresh produce to cheese and seafood. At around we will introduce ourselves and review our 6:30pm, we’ll set off by bus for a 15-minute itinerary in more detail (including any changes drive to a local restaurant. that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience Dinner: At a local restaurant around 6:45pm. Leader will also discuss logistics, safety and Tonight’s Welcome Dinner features local emergency procedures, and answer any cuisine; our meal will include an appetizer, questions we may have. main course, and dessert. Bottled water and Around 10:30am, our Trip Experience Leader your choice of a soft drink, glass of beer, or will take us on a 2-hour walking tour of Baku’s wine are included. Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This Evening: On your own. You’re free to rest up walled section of the city is filled with ancient after your first full day in Baku, or ask your Trip caravanserais, hammams (bath-houses), and Experience Leader for recommendations on mosques. We’ll also behold the twelfth-century where to venture for additional exploration. monument known as Maiden Tower. Widely considered a symbol of the city, this tower’s history is laced with legend: The most popular Day 4 Martyr’s Lane Visit • Open-Air story references a girl with fire-colored Museum of Gobustan hair—born out of flames, she saved the Baku • Destination: Baku from enemy invaders, and the tower was built • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch in her honor. Plus, we’ll later discover the • Accommodations: Boutique 19 Hotel Palace of the Shirvanshahs, a 15-century palace or similar described as one of the “pearls” of Azerbaijan’s architecture. This resplendent complex Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel includes burial vaults, a mausoleum, bath beginning at 7am and featuring hot and cold ruins, and more. selections.

Lunch: Around 12:30pm on your own—check Morning: Around 8:30am, we’ll drive 15 with your Trip Experience Leader for restaurant minutes to visit Martyr’s Lane. This memorial recommendations around the city center. is a moving tribute to the people of Baku who were killed by the Soviet Army during Black Afternoon: At about 1:45pm, we’ll depart the January in 1990, considered the starting point city center as a group for a 15-minute drive to of Azerbaijani independence. Heydar Alyev Center, a famous performance venue and exhibition space housed in a Then, around 9:30am, we’ll depart for the wave-like building that is a symbol of modern 1-hour drive to Gobustan, a UNESCO World Baku. Events and items on display here Heritage Site. There, we’ll explore the Gobustan center on cultural heritage and the history of Museum, which includes prehistoric carvings, Azerbaijan. We’ll explore the center for a little ancient human bones, and ancient tools. The over an hour, before departing around 3:15pm petroglyphs we’ll see here portray images of for the 15-minute drive back to our hotel. prehistoric life in the Caucasus, an area situated between the Black Sea and Caspian Sea. We’ll We’ll enjoy approximately 3 hours of free time, observe such images of ancient populations during which you may wish to rest at your hotel traveling on reed boats, men hunting large or perhaps you’d like to visit Green Bazaar, a fauna, and women dancing—all of which are lively local market that sells everything from tens of thousands of years old.

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29 Around noon, we’ll make the 1-hour drive back 200 wooden columns supporting its roof, a to Baku, where we’ll enjoy lunch. number of which date back to the tenth century. Furthermore, Juma is unique in that both Lunch: Around 1pm at a local restaurant, Shia and Sunni people can pray together here, featuring regional cuisine. while in other places in the world, they remain Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll enjoy free time segregated. for the remainder of the day. Perhaps you’d Around 10:45am, we’ll depart Juma Mosque for like to visit the Taze Bazaar, one of the oldest the 1.5-hour drive to Lahic Village, located on street markets in Azerbaijan. There you’ll find a the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus. variety of fresh foods, teas, and various goods. Lahic is known for its authentic handicraft You’ll also have the opportunity to speak with traditions, particularly relating to copper. Upon local vendors and absorb the daily rhythms of arrival, we’ll walk about 15 minutes through the life here. Alternatively, you may check with village to enjoy a Home-Hosted Lunch with a your Trip Experience Leader for other ideas. local Coppersmith. Dinner: On your own—check with your Trip Lunch: Around 12:30pm at the house of Experience Leader for suggestions. One of the the Coppersmith, featuring home-cooked, most famous dishes in Azeri cuisine is plov, regional cuisine. saffron rice, meat, onions, prunes, dry fruits, eggs, and fresh herbs (though there are many Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll tour the variations of this dish). Coppersmith’s workshop around 1:30pm, where we’ll witness ancient methods for processing Evening: The remainder of the evening is free copper in order to make everyday tools. We’ll for your own discoveries. Consult with your observe parts of the process and have the Trip Experience Leader for ideas, if you’d like. opportunity to ask any questions we may have.

Day 5 Overland to Shaki • Juma Mosque • Then, at about 2:15pm, we’ll drive 2 hours to Home-Hosted Lunch in Lahic Village Shaki, our final destination for the evening. Upon arrival around 4:15pm, we’ll check in • Destination: Shaki to our hotel. Depending on where we stay, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner our hotel should be conveniently located in • Accommodations: Sheki Saray Hotel the town center and offer easy access to local or similar shops and restaurants. Typical room amenities Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel will include air-conditioning, satellite TV, beginning at 7am and featuring hot and cold wireless Internet access, and private bath with selections. hair dryer.

Morning: At about 8am, we’ll depart Baku in You’ll enjoy about 2 hours of free time to settle the direction of Shaki, a town in northwestern in, relax, or explore as you wish before the Azerbaijan. Along the way, we’ll stop at Juma group reconvenes for a 15-minute walk to a Mosque around 10am, an important place of local restaurant around 6:45pm. worship originally constructed in the twelfth Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant, century and rebuilt a number of times over the featuring regional cuisine. centuries. Architecturally, this is a particularly interesting structure because of the more than

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30 Evening: The remainder of the evening is free through the former residence, giving us the for your own discoveries. Check with your Trip opportunity to ask any questions we have about Experience Leader for activity ideas. this architectural masterpiece.

At approximately 11:30am, we’ll embark on a Day 6 Kish Albanian Church • Khan 1-hour walking tour through the old town to Palace • Conversation about Armenia & discover the many cultural and architectural Azerbaijan conflict charms of Shaki. Our first stop will be at • Destination: Shaki Caravanserai, a 19th-century historical • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner monument representing the prominent role • Accommodations: Sheki Saray Hotel the town played in international trade along or similar the Silk Road. This complex functioned as a roadside inn for caravaners looking to recover Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel from their journey, and today, it operates as beginning at 7am and featuring hot and cold both a symbol of its important history as well selections. as a hotel. As we continue walking through the Morning: At about 8:30am, we’ll depart for old town, we’ll also stop by a local hat atelier, a 15-minute drive to Kish Village, a small where we’ll have the opportunity to learn mountain town situated on the Kish River. about traditional head wear, and later, we’ll Upon arrival, a local guide will lead us on a taste a variety of street food, such as halva, a 15 minute walk to a prominent former place dense confection made from tahini or other of worship, now museum: Kish Albanian nut butters. Church (also known as Church of Saint Lunch: Around 12:30pm we’ll stop for lunch at Elishe and Holy Mother of God Church). a local restaurant near the old town, featuring Dating back well beyond the Christian era, regional cuisine. this church functioned over the years as a Caucasian Albanian Apostolic church, a Afternoon: From about 1:45pm to 5:45pm, Chalcedonian church, and also as an Armenian you’ll have the freedom to plan the afternoon Apostolic church. In addition to admiring the as you wish. Perhaps you’d like to visit the remarkably-preserved architecture, we’ll have Shaki Museum of Folk and Applied Arts, located the opportunity to peer into glass-covered inside the Three Saints Church. There, you’ll grave excavation sites which house Bronze Age be able to peruse a fine collection of textiles, skeletons and artifacts, dating around 4000 B.C. carpets, costumes, and embroidery originating and the beginning of 3000 B.C. from Shaki and surrounding villages. Another option this afternoon is visiting a Shaki silk Around 9:30am, we’ll walk back to the bus and factory. Because Shaki used to be positioned on make the 15-minute return to Shaki, where the old Silk Road, this area was an important we’ll then visit Khan Palace. Beginning around producer of this coveted material and still 10am, we’ll spend 1 hour touring the palace, produces it to this day. Alternatively, feel free built as a summer residence for the Shaki to check with your Trip Experience Leader Khans in the late 18th century. This UNESCO for ideas. World Heritage Site is renowned for its lavish decoration, featuring colored glass mosaics, Around 5:45pm, we’ll have a conversation wooden latticework, floral tile panels, and with an internally displaced person who elaborate frescoes. A local guide will lead us was forced to relocate due to the unresolved

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31 conflict between Armenia and Azerbaijan over Around 11:15am, we’ll board the bus again for the Nagorno-Karabahk region and several the remaining 4.5 hours to Tbilisi, stopping for surrounding districts. This ongoing ethnic lunch along the way. conflict has displaced as many as 230,000 Lunch: En route to Tbilisi. Armenians from Azerbaijan and 800,000 Azerbaijanis from Armenia and Karabahkh. Afternoon: We’ll arrive in Georgia’s capital During this 1-hour conversation at our hotel, around 3:30pm, at which time we’ll check we’ll have the opportunity to understand what in to our hotel and join our main adventure, it’s like to be internally displaced, as well as Georgia & Armenia: Ancient Lands of the how this conflict continues to affect the lives of Southern Caucasus. people living in the region.

At about 6:45pm, we’ll board our bus for a 15-minute drive to dinner.

Dinner: Around 7pm at a local restaurant, featuring regional cuisine and mugan music, a genre native to the area.

Evening: The remainder of the evening is free for your own discoveries. Perhaps you’d like to grab a traditional dessert with your fellow travelers, such as mutekke, cardamom and walnut cookies. For alternative ideas, check with your Trip Experience Leader.

Day 7 Transfer to Tbilisi, Georgia • Join main trip • Destination: Tbilisi • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 7am and featuring hot and cold selections.

Morning: Today, we embark on a roughly 8-hour journey to Tbilisi, Georgia. At about 8am this morning, we’ll depart for the 2-hour drive to the Mazimchay border crossing, where we’ll get off the bus and walk through passport control, first on the Azerbaijan side and then on the Georgian side. The whole process should take approximately 1-1.5 hours, but this depends on a number of factors, such as how many people are passing through at this time.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

32 POST-TRIP Highlights of Moscow: Relics of the Russian & Soviet Empires

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations: 4 nights in Moscow at » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Veliy Hotel or similar Experience Leader » 9 meals—4 breakfasts, 2 lunches, » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and and 3 dinners luggage porters » 4 small group activities » All transfers

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

From Russia’s pinnacle of political power, the Kremlin, and the iconic Red Square to the colorful, exotic castle housing the best Russian artworks from around the world—the Tretyakov Gallery—journey to Moscow to discover the renewed vitality of Russia’s enchanting capital. Moscow is an ancient city replete with an untold wealth of modern museums, medieval cathedrals, and monuments to historic battles and fallen heroes. Spend 4 nights discovering the rich and complicated history of vibrant Moscow.

Day 1 Fly to Moscow, Russia more. Hotel amenities may include wireless Internet access, a restaurant, and bar. Each • Destination: Moscow room may feature air conditioning, cable TV, • Included Meals: Lunch, Dinner phone, and a private bathroom with hairdryer. • Accommodations: Veliy Hotel or similar Around 4:15pm, we’ll reconvene in the hotel Morning: Following our Georgia & Armenia lobby, and your Trip Experience Leader will adventure, we’ll check out of our hotel around lead an orientation walk of a little over an hour 8:30am and drive about 30 minutes by bus around the vicinity of the hotel—pointing out to the airport. Here, we’ll board our flight to ATMs, banks, restaurants, pharmacies, and Moscow and take off around 11:15am for our other important locales. Near the end of our 2-hour flight. walk, we’ll make our way to the famed Red Lunch: A boxed lunch will be provided at the Square, considered the most important square airport before our flight. in the city, and one of Russia’s most iconic stores, the GUM department store. Here, you’ll Afternoon: Upon arrival in Moscow, your Trip have about an hour of free time to explore on Experience Leader will meet you at the airport your own. Perhaps you’ll marvel at the iconic and drive you about 1.5 hours to your hotel, architecture surrounding the square, or peruse arriving around 3:30pm. Depending on where the chic fashion boutiques, small eateries, and we stay, our hotel will likely be in the heart of gourmet food stalls of GUM. Around 6:30pm, Moscow and just a short walk from many sites, we’ll reconvene with our small group and walk like the famed Red Square, the Kremlin, and about 15 minutes to a local restaurant.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

33 Dinner: At a local restaurant around 6:45pm, one of the highest points in Moscow, and then featuring regional specialties. make our way to the Novodevichy Convent. Just adjacent to the convent, there is a park with a Evening: Following dinner, we’ll walk “Make Way for Ducklings” sculpture—a replica about 15 minutes back to our hotel, arriving of the one found in Boston, Massachusetts. around 8:15pm. You have the remainder of Here, we’ll admire the nine bronze statues of the evening to spend as you wish. Perhaps the ducklings, and your Trip Experience Leader you’ll retire to your room to rest before will delve into the history behind this sculpture. tomorrow’s discoveries, or discover this vibrant Then, we’ll board our bus and drive 30 minutes city by night. to Lubyanskaya Square, where we’ll end our tour and stop for lunch. Day 2 Explore Moscow Lunch: Around 1pm, we’ll enjoy lunch at a local • Destination: Moscow restaurant, featuring local dishes. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Accommodations: Veliy Hotel or similar Afternoon: Following lunch around 2:30pm, you have the remainder of the day free for your Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel own discoveries. Ask your Trip Experience beginning at 7am, featuring Russian and Leader for suggestions. American options. Dinner: On your own—ask your Trip Morning: Around 9am, we’ll depart for a Experience Leader where you can find 4-hour city tour of Moscow by both foot and traditional dishes. Perhaps you’ll seek out a motorcoach. As the nation’s capital, Moscow local favorite, beef Stroganov—sautéed pieces is a hub of rich history, lively nightlife, a of beef served in a creamy sauce. sophisticated arts scene, as well as economic power. From the striking architecture of Evening: Free for you to spend as you wish. Saint Basil’s Cathedral to the complicated, Perhaps you’ll stroll the Red Square and enjoy communist past, there is much to be curious the striking view of buildings like the GUM about in the most populous Russian city. department store, St. Basil’s Cathedral, and the Kremlin Wall illuminated at night. When we set off from the hotel, we’ll drive past Lubyanka Square with its renowned former KGB headquarters with a basement Day 3 Moscow • Kremlin grounds • jail for political prisoners. We’ll continue Optional Imperial Russia: The Kremlin driving towards the Kremlin Embankment for Armory tour stunning views of the St. Basil’s Cathedral, • Destination: Moscow passing by the towers of the Kremlin until • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner we reach the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, • Accommodations: Veliy Hotel or similar the main orthodox cathedral of Russia. Then, we’ll walk behind the cathedral to Patriarshy Activity Note: If Day 3 of your itinerary falls on Bridge, a modern structure that blends with a Thursday, the Kremlin will be closed. Your the traditional architecture of the area. Here, Trip Experience Leader will work to reorganize we’ll enjoy panoramic views of the Kremlin and your itinerary and coordinate this visit on behold the Statue of Peter the Great, towering another day. Also be advised that the Kremlin at over 320 feet. Later, we’ll visit Sparrow Hills,

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

34 is the seat of Russian government and strict Evening: We’ll return to the hotel by 8:30pm, security measures are in place. It may require where you’ll have the rest of the evening to up to 1 hour to pass through security. spend as you wish. Perhaps you’ll grab a drink with fellow travelers at a local bar and recap Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel this discovery-filled day. around 7am, featuring traditional hot and cold breakfast items. Day 4 Moscow • Tretyakov Gallery Morning: Around 9:30am, we’ll depart for • Destination: Moscow a 10-minute walk to the Kremlin, a fortified • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner complex located in the center of Moscow. We’ll • Accommodations: Veliy Hotel or similar discover the history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site—from its eleventh-century Activity Note: If Day 4 of your itinerary falls fortifications to the legendary churches of on a Monday, the Tretyakov Gallery will be Cathedral Square. As the pinnacle of Russia’s closed. Your Trip Experience Leader will work political power, this massive structure has to reorganize your itinerary and coordinate this been the heart of the country’s ruling class visit on another day. for centuries—from autocratic tsars and Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel communal dictators to modern-day presidents. starting at 7am, featuring traditional hot and Here, we’ll spend about 2 hours delving into the cold breakfast items. rich and complicated past of Russia. Morning: Around 9am, we’ll depart via bus Lunch: On your own, whenever you’d like. for the 30-minute ride to Tretyakov Gallery, Afternoon: From noon onward, you’re free located near the Kremlin in Moscow’s to explore Moscow on your own, or you can historic Zamoskvorechye district. In 1892, join an Optional Tour. This tour visits some the merchant Pavel Tretyakov donated his of Imperial Russia’s treasures in the Kremlin expansive art collection to the city of Moscow. Armory, an internationally acclaimed museum. Originally comprised of an eclectic collection Formerly the arsenal of the tsars from the of 18th- and 19th-century Russian works, 16th to early 20th centuries, the Armory was the gallery continued to expand and is today later turned into an exhibition hall for the Russia’s most prominent national collection of public. We’ll discover more about the history fine art. It contains more than 130,000 pieces of Russia through objects such as coronation and showcases creations from generations of regalia, ceremonial weaponry, and the world’s Russian artists from the eleventh to the 20th largest collection of Imperial Fabergé eggs. Our centuries, featuring styles of Impressionism, discoveries will end around 1:30pm, where you Art Nouveau, and more. We’ll spend about 2 are free to explore more of this vibrant city on hours exploring here before we hop on the your own. Moscow Metro, an attraction unto itself, back to our hotel. Around 5:30pm, we’ll reconvene at the hotel for a talk on modern Russia. Then, around 6:45pm, Started in the 1930s, stations were embellished we’ll depart for about a 15-minute walk to a by Soviet artisans with decorations including local restaurant. chandeliers, inlaid marble floors, and filigreed wall moldings. Though the city has changed, Dinner: At a local restaurant around 7pm featuring regional specialties.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

35 the Moscow Metro remains an unusual the evening free to spend as you wish. Perhaps object of beauty as well as a daily method of you’ll grab a drink with fellow travelers at the transportation for nine million people. hotel bar, or retire to your room to rest before tomorrow’s flight home. We’ll arrive to our hotel around 1:30pm, where you’re free to explore on your own. Day 5 Moscow • Return to U.S. Lunch: On your own—ask your Trip Experience • Included Meals: Breakfast Leader for local restaurant recommendations. Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel Afternoon: You’ll have about 4.5 hours of free starting at 7am, featuring traditional hot time this afternoon before our small group and cold breakfast items. If you have an meets at the hotel to walk about 30 minutes to a early-morning flight, then a breakfast box will local restaurant for our Farewell Dinner. be provided to you.

Dinner: We’ll enjoy a Farewell Dinner, Morning: Depending on your flight schedule, featuring regional specialties, at a local you’ll check out of the hotel and depart for restaurant around 6:30pm. about a 1.5-hour drive to the airport to catch your flight home. Evening: Around 8pm, we’ll depart the restaurant and walk about 30 minutes back to our hotel. Upon arrival, you’ll have the rest of

OPTIONAL TOUR

Imperial Russia: The Kremlin Armory Tour (Day 3 $60 per person) On this tour, we’ll see some of Imperial Russia’s treasures in this internationally acclaimed museum. The former arsenal of the tsars from the 16th to early 20th centuries, the Armory was later turned into an exhibition hall for the public. Discover more about the history of Russia through objects such as coronation regalia, ceremonial weaponry, and the world’s largest collection of Imperial Faberge eggs.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

36 Georgia & Armenia: OUR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURE COVID-19 VACCINATION POLICY To ensure the safety of all of our travelers, we are requiring that all travelers Ancient Lands of the joining us on one of our Small Group Adventures must be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure of their adventure— Southern Caucasus and provide proof of their vaccination on-site. For more details, please visit www.oattravel.com/covid-update. 2022 Dates & Prices

A P R I L - J U N E ; DEPART FROM SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER JULY-AUGUST New York $ 5995 $ 5695

Baltimore $ 6195 $ 5895

Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Newark, Orlando, $ 6295 $5995 San Francisco, Washington, DC

Atlanta, Portland, Seattle $ 6395 $6095

Detroit, Minneapolis, Philadelphia $ 6495 $ 6195

M i a m i $ 6595 $6295

Dallas, Houston, San Diego, Tampa $ 6695 $ 6395

Denver, Phoenix $ 6795 $6495

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details.

APRIL; MAY 3-13; MAY 17-29; JUNE; SEP 11-30; OCT 3 SEP 2, 5 JULY-AUGUST OCT 7-30 Without international airfare $ 4595 $ 4495 $ 4195 $ 4695

GAA2022 NEW! STOPOVERS RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH CONFIDENCE— All O.A.T. Stopovers include 3 nights in a centrally- NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 located hotel, daily breakfasts, and roundtrip private airport transfers. We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another departure date for any reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/ Istanbul: $795 per person riskfree-booking. Munich or Warsaw: $895 per person Dubai: $945 per person Other O.A.T. Stopovers are available. If a city you Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel are interested in is not offered, we can arrange surcharges. All prices and availability are effective as of the date of this publication, and your airfare for that, too. are subject to change without notice. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information Call your Regional Adventure Counselor for full accurately. We reserve the right to correct errors. details at 1-800-955-1925.

For specific departure dates, current availability, and detailed pricing, visit www.oattravel.com/gaa2022pricing

SAVE UP TO 10% WITH FREE SINGLE SUPPLEMENTS SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL OUR GOOD BUY PLAN We offer FREE Single Supplements on all New travelers you refer will instantly save The earlier you reserve your departure of our adventures and pre- and post-trip $100, and you’ll earn increasing rewards— and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up extensions. up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. Each departure has limited solo space For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd available—call today to reserve.

Publication Date: 6/8/21

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/gaa2022

37 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: You will need 3 blank passport pages.

• Pre-trip extension to Azerbaijan: You will need an additional passport page, for a total of 4 pages.

• Post-trip extension to Moscow: You will need 2 additional passport pages, for a total of 5 pages.

• Both pre- and a post-trip extension: You will need a total of 6 blank pages

• Stopover in Munich or Doha: You will need to add 2 additional pages to the applicable total listed above.

• Stopover in Dubai, Istanbul, Vienna, or Warsaw: You will need to add an additional page to the applicable total listed above.

Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.

• Georgia and Armenia: No visas required. Neither of these countries require visas for U.S. citizens.

38 • Azerbaijan (pre-trip extension): Visa required. Can only be obtained in advance. You must get your visa before you depart the U.S.

• Russia (post-trip extension): Visa required. Can only be obtained in advance. You must obtain this visa before you depart the U.S. It is very important that you apply for your visa through PVS International. Obtaining a Russian visa on your own through an embassy or consulate is a complicated and bureaucratic process. It requires a letter of sponsorship that Overseas Adventure Travel is unable to supply to you individually. PVS is able to work within this restriction when your application is processed through them, but for legal reasons cannot assist you with applying directly to the embassy. Details on obtaining your visa through PVS International will be included with your application. Please note: Russia has strict rules about re-using a previous visa. For example, your visa must be in a valid (not expired) passport. If you have been to Russia before and think your visa may still be valid, please check now by calling PVS at 1-800-556-9990 or by contacting the embassy.

• Turkey (optional stopover only): Visa required. We suggest you obtain an e-visa in advance through the Turkish government’s website as visas cannot be obtained upon arrival.

• Qatar (optional stopover only): Visa required. For U.S. citizens, a free visa waiver can be obtained at arrival for a stay of 30 days or less as long as your passport is valid for the next 6 months and you have proof of a return flight.

• United Arab Emirates (optional stopover only): Visa required. Currently, the United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.) allows U.S. citizens to get a tourist visa free of charge on arrival in Dubai.

• Germany, Austria, or Poland (optional stopovers only): No visas required. A visa is not required for U.S. citizens for stays of up to 90 days.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

39 If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

40 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

PACING • 5 locations in 15 days with an overland drive of up to 6 hours along a steep winding road through the Greater Caucasus

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk up to 3 miles unassisted each day and feel comfortable walking up and down stairs

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

CLIMATE • While it can get hot and dry in the summer and cold in the winter, temperatures are generally pleasant throughout the year in both Georgia and Armenia, who share a continental climate

• Weather is less predictable in the higher altitudes of Georgia’s Kazbegi region of the Greater Caucasus Mountains, where heavy snows can occur at any time

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Some walking tours are along cobblestone streets

• Travel on air-conditioned coach, four-wheel-drive vehicles, funicular, and boat

• 1 internal flight of about 1 hour with potential for delays

FLIGHT INFORMATION • Travel times from the U.S. to Tbilisi will be 12-18 hours with at least one connection

ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • All accommodations are hotel-standard, with a variety of amenities and personal service, as well as private baths

41 Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness

• Altitude meditation, but only for short visits in the mountains (i.e. Gergeti Trinity Church at about 8,858 feet above sea level)

Not a medicine per se, but a health recommendation: The CDC recommends travelers to Azerbaijan bring insect repellent to avoid mosquito bites.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

42 Bringing medicines to Georgia: Some prescription medications are restricted in Georgia, especially narcotics/opiates or psychotropic drugs. As a visitor, you are allowed to bring a personal supply for up to 31 days of any such medications. However, we suggest that you document your personal supply by bringing one of the following: the original prescription bottles, a copy of your prescription, or a doctor’s note. Codeine in particular is not allowed in Georgia, so please do not bring any medications that contain it.

For Russia, the State Department did warn that large quantities of medication will receive scrutiny by Russian customs; they recommend that all U.S. citizens entering Russia with any prescription medication carry a copy of their valid U.S. prescription. This is your proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the United States.

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

• Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water is not safe in Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, or Russia.

• Drinks that are safe include bottled, filtered, or disinfected water; carbonated drinks; hot coffee or tea; and pasteurized milk.

43 • Ice should be avoided unless it is made from bottled, filtered, or disinfected water. Likewise you should avoid salads or produce that was washed in local tap water. When in doubt about the water/ice/salads, ask your Trip Experience Leader.

Food • We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Your Trip Experience Leader can suggest restaurants for the meal you take on your own.

• Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked foods.

44 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high.

• You will not be able to pay with U.S. dollars on this trip; you will need local currency instead.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Georgia The currency in Georgia is the Georgian Lari (GEL), which is divided into 100 tetri. Banknotes and coins come in denominations of:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 200 Lari

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 Tetri and 1 and 2 Lari

Local currency is strongly preferred. If you do manage to find a shop that accepts U.S. dollars or Euros, it will be at a bad exchange rate.

Armenia Armenia uses the Armenian Dram (AMD) as their currency. Drams are divided into 100 luma. Banknotes and coins come in denominations of:

• Banknotes: 1,000; 2,000; 5,000; 10,000; 20,000; 50,000 and 100,000 dram

• Coins: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 dram

Local currency is strongly preferred. While you may occasionally see prices listed in U.S. dollars at hotels or tourist shops, Armenian law states you must pay in drams.

Azerbaijan The currency in Azerbaijan is the Azerbaijan Manat (AZN). The Azerbaijan Manat is divided into 100 qepik (qr). Banknotes and coins come in denominations of:

• Banknotes: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 Manat

• Coins: 1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 50 qepik

45 Russia The monetary unit of Russia is the ruble, which is divided into 100 copeks. On price tags, it is abbreviated to p. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 2,000 and 5,000 rubles

• Coins: 10 and 50 copeks and 1, 2, 5 and 10 rubles

Russian rubles can be very difficult to get outside of Russia, so we recommend exchanging money after you arrive.

How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank holiday or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way to obtain local currency is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You may be able to exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices, however they do not typically offer good exchange rates and can be difficult to find. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Western Asia will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Georgia: ATMs are plentiful in cities and towns throughout Georgia.

Armenia: There are lots of ATMs in Yerevan that accept both credit cards and debit/ATM cards.

Azerbaijan: ATMs are common in larger cities, such as Baku, but access may be limited in small towns and rural areas.

46 Russia: International ATM networks are widely available in larger cities and small towns.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

Georgia: You can make purchases by Visa and MasterCard at some shops, restaurants, and hotels in Tbillisi. Outside the capital, it will be harder to use a credit card.

Armenia: Major credit cards (MasterCard, Visa, and sometimes American Express) are widely accepted in Yerevan. If you travel to the countryside, then cash is more common.

Azerbaijan: Major credit cards are accepted at larger establishments, such as big hotels and restaurants. However, the economy still relies heavily on cash, so be sure to ask before making a purchase and we strongly recommend keeping cash on hand.

Russia: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Russia, though some smaller establishments may require cash. Please note, American Express is not accepted in Russia.

Chip Cards Many countries have adopted a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in other countries that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) If you are not able to sign for a purchase, such as at an automated ticket booth, you can use another form of payment, such as a debit card that has a PIN.

Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

47 Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

• O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Housekeeping staff at hotels: $1-$2 per room, per night (in local currency)

• Waiters: Many restaurants in Georgia will add a service fee to the bill, in which case you do not need to tip. If there is no service fee than 10% of the bill is customary. In Armenia, any service charge usually goes to the back of the house rather than your waiter. To tip the waiter, leave about 10% in cash. Azerbaijan and Russia also tip about 10%. Tips are usually in cash only; it is rare to be able to tip on a credit card. Your Trip Experience Leader will tip waiters for included meals.

• Taxi drivers: In this part of the world you often negotiate your fare beforehand (rather than relying on a meter), so tipping is not common. But if you want to give something you can round up the fare and let the driver keep the change.

• Included in Your Trip Price: Gratuities are included for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters on your main trip, extensions, and all optional tours.

Please note: Tips are quoted in U.S. dollars for budgeting purposes; tips can be converted and paid in local currency (this is usually preferred) or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.

48 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the Rome to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

49 • Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).

One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Internet Most hotels in Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Russia have wireless Internet service (WiFi). This service is often (but not always) free for guests. Some cafes, bars, and city centers will also have free WiFi service. For example Tbilisi, Georgia has a municipal network that covers most of downtown (although it can be slow).

50 How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Georgia: +995 Azerbaijan: +994

Armenia: +374 Russia: +7

51 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person.

Weight restrictions Varies by airline. The current standard is 44 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-ons.

Size Restrictions Varies by airline. Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth). Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches.

Luggage Type Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Please do not bring a hard-sided (clamshell) suitcase.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip.

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

52 Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: One duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

• Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle- resistant fabric or built-in sun protection.

• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. The soles of your shoes should offer good traction.

• Outerwear: Rainfall can occur any time of year, so don’t forget a waterproof jacket, poncho, or folding umbrella. In early spring and winter, temperatures can be chilly or freezing, and snowfall can begin in the Caucasus Mountains as early as the end of October. Bring some warm gear such as a fleece, sweater, jacket, or winter coat for these times of year.

Dress Codes & Style Hints During our adventure, we’ll visit local religious sites, which generally will fall into one of four denominations: Eastern Orthodox (Georgia), Armenian Apostolic (Armenia), Russian Orthodox (Moscow), or Shia Muslim (Azerbaijan). Your Trip Experience Leader will remind you about upcoming visits the day before so that you can plan your outfit accordingly, but here is what to consider when packing:

• Eastern and Russian Orthodox churches and monasteries strongly prefer that visitors of both genders dress modestly. In this context, “modestly dressed” means covered knees and shoulders—no skirts above the knee, no sleeveless shirts, and no low or revealing necklines. Shorts are not allowed for women or men, but many churches or monasteries will have wraps or apron-style skirts that you can borrow to cover up. However, some will not allow men to wear these skirts, so male travelers are advised to bring at least one pair of long trousers for religious visits.

• In Armenia, the dress code for churches is more relaxed, although shorts/skirts should be at least to the knee, and shoulders covered.

53 • Shia mosques follow the same rules as Orthodox churches, but with one additional rule— that you remove your shoes. You may wish to bring a couple extra pairs of socks for these occasions.

• For all denominations it is common for local women to cover their hair inside a church or mosque. Female travelers are not usually required to do this, but covering your hair would be a nice gesture of respect. Sometimes you can borrow a scarf from the church or mosque, but we suggesting bringing one from home that is large enough to double as a wrap for chilly evenings. (That way you’ll get more use out of it.)

• Depending on scheduling, we may also have the opportunity to visit a Jewish synagogue during the pre-trip extension in Azerbaijan. If so, the dress code is similar to the mosques, and you may be asked to remove your shoes (which is a local practice not always found in other synagogues around the world).

Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Recommended Clothing ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts.

‰Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. Avoid tight-fitting jeans for comfort and ease of movement.

‰Light wool or fleece sweater; vest or another layer for warmth, like a warm jacket. ‰Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking/ running shoes or low-cut hiking shoes, with arch support. Bring at least a couple pairs of medium- to heavy-weight socks for long walks or hikes.

‰Underwear and sleepwear ‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ‰Wide-brim sun hat ‰Swimsuit for hotel pools or saunas

54 ‰At least one outfit for visiting religious sites: Long trousers or a skirt that falls below the knees, and a shirt with sleeves; plus a headscarf (for female travelers).

Seasonal Clothing Recommendations For summer departures: ‰A pair or two of shorts if fine for summer departures. But you should bring long trousers for up in the mountains and religious sites.

‰Sleeveless tops are OK in cities, but most locals will opt for short sleeves instead.

For spring and early fall departures: ‰Sweater and/or a warm jacket ‰Gloves, and a scarf

For late fall and winter departures: ‰Winter coat, hat, warm gloves, scarf, and long underwear

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses ‰Sunglasses, 100% UV block ‰Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ‰Insect repellent ‰Cold-water hand-wash laundry soap such as Woolite and plastic hang-up clothespins ‰Light folding umbrella ‰Photocopies of passport, air ticket, credit cards ‰Moisturizer and sun-blocking lip balm ‰Packets of pocket-size tissues or small roll of toilet paper

55 ‰Moist towelettes (not individual packets) and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser

‰Reusable water bottle ‰Electrical converter & plug adapters

Medicines & First Aid Gear ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication.

‰An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ‰Optional: Altitude medication for short visits in the mountains ‰Optional: Motion sickness medication (for long bus rides, if you are prone to motion sickness)

TIP: The State Department says that if you are bringing prescription medications into Georgia or Russia, they recommend carrying a copy of your valid U.S. prescription. That way, if customs officials ask, you have proof that your prescription medication was lawfully obtained in the United States.

Optional Gear ‰Travel alarm or travel watch with alarm ‰Folding walking staff, sold in most camping stores (preferably rubber-tipped) ‰Hanging toiletry bag (with hook to hang on doorknob and pockets to organize items) ‰Basic sewing kit ‰Reading materials ‰Travel journal/note pad and pens ‰Phrase book ‰Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates

56 Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity in this region is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/ converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

Georgia: C and F (note that Type C plugs can fit into Type F sockets)

Armenia: C and F

Azerbaijan: C, E, and F

57 Russia: C and F

Type C Type E Type F

Availability Barring the occasional and unpredictable power outage, electricity is as readily available on this adventure as it is in the U.S.

58 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Georgia: With the Greater Caucasus mountain range acting as a barrier to cold air from Russia, most of Georgia’s climate is influenced by the Black Sea to the west. For this reason, it is generally warmer/wetter in the western lowlands and colder/drier in the east. But elevation also plays a part. Towns in the mountains or foothills (like Stephantsminda) will be 20 degrees colder than the rest of the country, so pack accordingly.

Tbilisi, Georgia: Summers are generally sunny with moderate highs in the mid-70s to mid-80s range; at night the lows will be in the 60s. However, lowland cities like Tbilisi get sticky and humid in the summer, especially in August. Fall is cooler (in the 50s and 60s during the day) and more comfortable. Winter temps drop below freezing so snow is not uncommon, but it doesn’t accumulate. Spring brings back pleasant temperatures but is also the rainiest season.

Stepantsminda, Georgia: Set in a high plateau in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range, this region is known for its winter sports like skiing, meaning its climate is comparable to part of northern Utah or Vermont/New Hampshire. Winters are very cold, with temperatures often below freezing, and with lots of snow. Spring doesn’t really begin until May and summer highs rarely go above the high 60s/low 70s. Fall is lovely but short as snowfall can begin as early as October.

Armenia: Armenia has a continental climate with dry, sunny, and hot summers (temperatures can spike up into the 90s) lasting from June to mid-September. In contrast, winters are very cold with plenty of snow and temperatures ranging the 20s and teens. Spring and fall are the nicest times of year, when the temperatures are more moderate.

Yerevan, Armenia: Summers are very hot, with highs in 90s—and a heat wave can make it even hotter—but it is sunny with little rain. Spring and fall are much more comfortable, with highs in the 70s or 60s. Note that September is a transition month—the early part will be more like summer. Winter is cold and windy. It does snow in the city, but the snow rarely stays. Rain can happen any time of year, but is most likely in the winter or spring.

Azerbaijan: In Azerbaijan, you’ll find cold winters with temperatures in the low 30s and hot, arid summers with highs in the mid-80s to low-90s. In the lowlands along the Caspian Sea, Baku experiences wind all year long, with particularly strong winds during the winter months. Though the lowlands remain relatively dry throughout the year, there are light and frequent showers in the fall and winter. Mountainous regions experience slightly colder temperatures and more rain throughout the year, resulting in lush green forests during the warmer months. Along the southern coast in the foothills of the Talysh Range, rain and heavy snowfalls are common.

Moscow, Russia: Moscow has a continental climate, with very cold, long winters and warm, humid summers. Summer can bring occasional hot spells while winter temperatures are frequently far below freezing. Winter snows start in November and the snow blanket persists well into spring. Moscow has little rainfall, most of its precipitation falls as snow.

59 NOTE: If you are taking one of our optional stopovers before or after your OAT adventure, please be aware the climate and temperatures might be different from what you experienced during your tour. To prepare for weather differences and pack appropriate clothing, we recommend the following world weather sites:

• www.intellicast.com

• www.weather.com

• www.wunderground.com

Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH TBILISI, GEORGIA STEPHANTSMINDA, GEORGIA

Avg Temp. (High- % Relative Average # of Days Avg Temp. (High- % Relative Average # of Days Low) Humidity (Avg) with Rainfall Low) Humidity (Avg) with Rainfall JAN 43 to 28 87 7 26 to 16 -- 14 FEB 46 to 30 84 8 32 to 20 -- 13 MAR 54 to 36 82 11 34 to 19 -- 15 APR 65 to 45 76 11 46 to 30 -- 25 MAY 74 to 54 75 10 60 to 43 -- 27 JUN 82 to 60 71 7 66 to 50 -- 30 JUL 87 to 66 77 4 66 to 50 -- 29 AUG 87 to 66 82 6 68 to 50 -- 20 SEP 79 to 59 84 7 55 to 41 -- 26 OCT 68 to 49 89 9 54 to 38 -- 16 NOV 55 to 39 89 6 40 to 26 -- 8 DEC 46 to 32 87 8 33 to 20 -- 12

60 MONTH YEREVAN, ARMENIA BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

Avg Temp. (High- % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Low) Humidity (Avg) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 33 to 17 80 11 44 to 35 -- 1.4 FEB 38 to 21 75 10 43 to 35 -- 0.8 MAR 51 to 32 60 11 49 to 39 -- 0.8 APR 66 to 43 60 13 61 to 47 -- 0.8 MAY 76 to 51 55 13 71 to 57 -- 0.5 JUN 84 to 58 50 8 81 to 66 -- 0.3 JUL 92 to 64 50 4 86 to 71 -- 0.1 AUG 91 to 64 50 3 85 to 72 -- 0.3 SEP 83 to 55 55 3 78 to 66 -- 0.8 OCT 69 to 45 65 9 67 to 55 -- 1.3 NOV 55 to 36 75 8 68 to 47 -- 1.2 DEC 39 to 25 80 8 49 to 40 -- 1.3

MONTH MOSCOW, RUSSIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 21 to 11 85 to 81 1.4 FEB 24 to 12 86 to 76 1.1 MAR 34 to 22 86 to 68 1.3 APR 49 to 34 85 to 57 1.5 MAY 63 to 44 84 to 51 2.0 JUN 69 to 51 87 to 57 2.6 JUL 71 to 55 90 to 60 3.2 AUG 68 to 52 93 to 63 2.8 SEP 57 to 43 93 to 67 2.3 OCT 45 to 33 89 to 73 2.0 NOV 32 to 24 88 to 82 1.7 DEC 25 to 16 86 to 84 1.7

61 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Georgian Culture So is Georgia in Europe or Asia? One definition of Europe marks the Caucasus Mountains as its border, which would put Georgia firmly in Asia. Another definition places the whole Caucasus region, including Georgia, firmly in Europe. Georgians would most likely tell you they belong in Europe. And if you take a stroll down a leafy boulevard in the Georgian capital of Tbilisi, you might be reminded of a European city like Paris. And the trendy English-speaking locals you see wouldn’t look out of place somewhere like Berlin. But if parts of Georgia resemble modern-day Europe, other parts like the poorer farming communities in the Georgian countryside resemble Europe as it was a century or two ago.

Georgia’s cultural traditions of tolerance, generosity, and hospitality are closely tied to its geography. Set at the at the midpoint between the Muslim East and the Christian West, trade routes were established here since ancient times. Merchants, traders, and travelers from around the world passed through Georgia, with many of them pausing for a restorative dip in the famous thermal baths of Tbilisi, the Georgian capital. Centuries of welcoming weary travelers gave rise to a deeply ingrained code of chivalry that extends to present-day Georgia. Many countries are known for their hospitality, of course. But a country that believes “every guest is a gift from God” means that traditions of hospitality are taken to a whole new level in Georgia.

Georgia’s welcoming nature might be best expressed in the national monument that stands high above Tbilisi. Called Kartlis Deda—Mother of Georgia—the statue bears a goblet of wine in one hand to welcome guests. But not all guests were friendly, so the statue bears a sword in the other hand. That’s because Georgia’s geography had a real downside. Its prized location made the country too tempting a target. And a wave of invaders came calling, with Arab, Ottoman, Mongol, and Russian forces each leaving behind their distinctive cultural mark.

It shouldn’t come as a surprise, then, that Georgian culture is centered on things like hospitality, food, and wine. As the world’s oldest wine-producing country, Georgians are fiercely proud of their wines—and continue to make much of it in ancient underground clay pots (kvevri), a tradition dating back to the eighth century BC. And they’re equally proud of their food. The country’s celebrated culinary traditions stem from Silk Road times too, when Georgians began cherry-picking the best flavors and dishes of Europe and Asia and improving upon them.

62 Georgian food and wine traditions all come together in a traditional feast called the supra, a treasured national ritual characterized by endless plates of food and glasses of wine—and an almost equal number of rules. Supra, which translates to “tablecloth,” is a centuries-old Georgian feast directed by the tamada, who will lead the party in dozens of toasts—to Georgia, to peace, to women, to deceased loved ones, to nature … It’s a multi-hour, multi-course extravaganza where the wine is invariably followed by a bottle of chacha, the lethal Georgian schnapps.

Even when not at a supra, the quality of Georgian food and the generous portions make it difficult not to overindulge. Georgians even have a word for this: shemomedjamo—whose literal translation is “I accidentally ate the whole thing.”

Religion and family also figure prominently in Georgian culture. While many European nations have seen a drop in religious adherence, attendance and respect for the Orthodox Church are on the rise in Georgia. With roots that back to the fourth century, the church is credited with helping Georgia keep is musical traditions alive during the Soviet era. Being dominated by so many foreign powers through the centuries has also left Georgians deeply distrustful of government, which may be one reason why family and friends are held in such high regard. In times of crisis, Georgians rely on family.

Armenian Culture Like in Georgia, geography played an important role in shaping Armenian culture, whose people have existed for thousands of years. A mountainous, landlocked nation framed by the Black Sea to the west and the Caspian to the east, Armenia found itself occupied by neighboring empires throughout much of its history—and Armenian culture faced the threat of extinction time and again. That Armenians have managed to preserve their unique culture and national identity while under the thumb of so many other dominating cultures is nothing short of remarkable.

Unlike many other cultures, Armenians developed their own unique language, alphabet, customs, and traditions. Armenia was first country in the world to adopt Christianity as the state religion in AD 301—and the church is the unifying force that links Armenian culture not just to the people living in Armenia but among the diaspora communities of Armenians throughout the world. Soon after the adoption of Christianity, a wealth of churches, monasteries and other Christian monuments were constructed throughout the country. Then, by the fifth century, the church had developed the Armenian alphabet, which became an invaluable tool in preserving national identity. While Armenian already had a rich heritage of music and dance dating back centuries before Christ, the alphabet allowed for the preservation of ancient literature and texts, translations of the Bible and the Holy Liturgy, and the development and preservation of new sacred music. While Christianity didn’t originate in Armenia, they would endow it with their own language, music, and unique architecture.

It isn’t just religion that has shaped Armenian culture, of course. At the crossroads of civilizations, it has naturally absorbed a blend of Eastern and Western cultural influences. As a stop along the Silk Road, traditions of hospitality have endured in Armenia. Guests are

63 always welcome into Armenian homes and are greeted with warmth and a table piled high with traditional cuisine—including lavash, the flatbread whose recipe or cooking method hasn’t changed for centuries that is recognized by UNESCO on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Families and family life remain a cornerstone of Armenian culture. Weddings may no longer last for several days, but they are exuberant affairs with many joyous rituals and include extended families of the bride and groom. Traditional Armenian families welcome many children and even have a formal celebration when a baby’s first tooth appears. As a largely patriarchal society, Armenians particularly revere boys—with first male child usually given the honor of being named after his fraternal grandfather.

Some notable diaspora Armenians include Cher, Andre Agassi, and yes, the Kardashians. An Armenian brandy became quite notable at the Yalta Conference in 1945. Churchill, who was said to have been smitten with the Ararat brandy offered to him by Stalin, would later say his secret to a long life was “Never be late for dinner, smoke Havana cigars, and drink Armenian brandy.” One other Armenian cultural trait of note: With more grandmasters per capita than in any other country, Armenians are pretty good chess players, too.

Customer Service That the Soviet era left its mark on Russia (and the neighboring Baltics) is understandable and expected. But what might surprise you is its effect on customer service standards, even today. A famous story illustrates this influence: when the first McDonald’s opened in Moscow, the new employees were given extensive customer service training, to which one of the puzzled newcomers asked “Why do we have to be so nice to the customers? After all, we have the hamburgers and they don’t!”

This is not to say that you won’t experience genuine kindness and good service while in this region, but rather that you should be prepared—service in restaurants and shops may not be what you expect.

Georgian Cuisine A 2019 New Yorker article described Georgian cuisine as “the next big thing.” Here is your chance to get ahead of the trend. If you are lucky, your introduction might begin at a supra, a traditional, spontaneous feast where the food and wine just keep coming, along with many sentimental toasts and heartfelt hospitality. The supra table will undoubtedly include khachapuri, which can refer to any number of cheese-filled breads, usually served with a raw or sunny-side up egg. Georgian chefs make good use of herbs such as parsley, fenugreek, and cilantro, but the iconic flavor profile comes from tarragon, which accents everything, including a bright green, carbonated lemonade (tarkhuna).

You might begin your meal with khinkali, a chunky dumpling filled with soup and lamb, beef or pork; or spinach, mushroom, or cheese. The dough is twisted to create a handy knob on top. For an unusual burst of flavor, try chrianteli, a cold soup made from puréed cherries, garlic, cilantro and dill. Move on to the main course, perhaps shkmeruli, a chicken in garlic sauce; grilled

64 sturgeon garnished with dill and served with a pomegranate sauce; or hot and spicy beef ostri in tomato sauce. In the winter, you may enjoy a hearty plate of satsivi, chicken or turkey braised with a paste of walnuts, garlic, and herbs.

Walking through the markets, you might see stalls overflowing with what look like multicolored batons. These would be tklapi, which are rolled-up sheets of dried fruit purée. Made of apricots, plums, peaches and more, there are sweet and sour varieties eaten as snacks and also as additions to popular dishes such as kharcho, the quintessential Georgian comfort food. Besides tklapi, kharcho is made with seared chicken or beef, garlic, and crushed walnuts all simmered for hours until its ladled into a bowl and served with chewy bread.

Georgians do wonderful things with vegetables and one of their most inventive dishes is a salad called pkhali. It comes in many varieties (such as carrot, spinach, or beet) and is actually more of a pâté that you can spread. When chopped and drizzled with honey, it makes a delicious dessert called gozinaki. Churchkhelas will also satisfy your sweet tooth. These waxy-looking confections are walnuts strung like beads, then dipped in a thick, sugary syrup made with grapes, apricots, pomegranates, or other fruit. It’s sometimes called “the Georgian Snickers”.

Whatever you choose, you will have some wonderful Georgian wines to pair it with, since viniculture has been prevalent here for 7,000 years. Try a dry, white Mtsvane or a tannic, ruby colored Orovela. You may be offered a glass of traditional “orange wine” but don’t be fooled: there are no oranges in it. The deep amber color comes from the grape skins which have been fermented along with the grapes, adding a rich color and a depth of fruity flavor.

As you may have noticed walnuts are a popular ingredient here. If you have a nut allergy, let your Trip Experience Leader know early on and ask them to write something down in Georgian for you to show the waiter when dining on your own.

Armenian Cuisine If you’ve had Armenian food here in the States, you may be surprised by what you are actually served in Armenia. The diaspora that happened after the Armenian genocide, sending refugees to places as far-flung as the U.S. and Canada, Syria, Lebanon, and Iran, meant that many cherished recipes were adapted to accommodate new local ingredients. Meanwhile, back in Armenia, the Soviet era introduced a whole other culinary style (along with food shortages that spurred even more invention). Many Armenians eventually returned from abroad, bringing cosmopolitan touches to the regional cooking styles they’d grown up with. So the Armenian table is a fluid, varied, and delectable thing.

Harissa (not to be confused with the spicy North African condiment) is a historical Armenian food that symbolizes the courage of Armenians during the Ottoman rule. Peeled wheat and meat or chicken are simmered for 4-5 hours until everything has melded together into a thick porridge. It is served with melted butter on top. This is Armenian comfort food.

Traveling around you will see men cooking meat on charcoal grills (called manghals). They are making khorovats, which are kebabs of beef, pork, or lamb. They are never marinated, just seasoned with salt and pepper and served with a “salad” of fried tomatoes, eggplant, peppers,

65 greens and onion. It all gets wrapped up in chewy lavash flatbread. Another popular street food is zhingyalov or “little hats”. It is a traditional fried flatbread from the Armenian Highlands, based on a dough made with flour, sour cream, and seasonal greens like cilantro, parsley, spring onions, dill, spinach, lettuce, or beet leaves. It gets fried in a pan until both sides are golden.

Lamejhun (Lahmacun) is essentially an Armenian pizza, though it doesn’t usually have cheese. It’s a savory round, thin flatbread topped with sautéed minced beef, finely chopped onions, garlic, and peeled crushed tomatoes. Baked until the crust is crispy, it is served with mint and lemon. Try also kyufta, little cones of minced meat, mixed with crushed wheat and spices, and simmered in broth. For a tasty sandwich, try basturma, an air-dried, fenugreek-seasoned cured beef similar to Italian bresaola. It is sliced very thinly into baguettes filled with onions and pickles. Armenians from Yerevan will often drive to lakeside restaurants around Lake Sevan for ishkhan, a meaty trout. It is prepared many ways, including stuffed with hazelnuts and apricots; or simmered in wine and seasoned with basil, tarragon, chives and red pepper.

Dolmas are popular all over the Caucasus, and in Armenia, besides rice, these pickled and rolled grape leaves can be filled with lentils and chickpeas (pasus dolma). They’re often served with matsun, a fermented milk yogurt mixed with garlic. If you like dumplings you’ll love manti, which are open pockets of dough filled with meat and cheese, then baked in pan with tomato sauce and served with a garlicky yogurt dipping sauce.

For sweets, have a piece of gata, an eggy, bread-like glazed cake that may be filled with a creamy cheese. It’s melt-in-your-mouth good—a staple for every important holiday in Armenia.

Azerbaijani Cuisine Thanks to Azerbaijan’s versatile climate, fertile farms, and a location along the Caspian Sea, Azeri chefs have a rich larder of ingredients from which to create their culinary magic. They also have a trove of influences ranging from Persian palace cooking to Ottoman confections to Eastern European stalwarts.

Common meats include beef, lamb, veal, pork, chicken, and duck; and fish include various types of sturgeon, salmon, kutum (a whitefish), mullet, and sardines. Black caviar from the Caspian Sea is a delicacy you won’t want to miss (especially since it’s so much more affordable here). The array of vegetables is too numerous to list; and popular seasonings include dill, tarragon, rose water, thyme, marjoram, mint, sumac, saffron, coriander, and basil.

How do you describe a national dish that has more than 200 variants? It is called it plov and it is a saffron-scented rice pilaf that can also include dried fruits, barberries, eggs, meat or poultry, chestnuts, and any variety of herbs and spices. Sometimes it is baked in a pan lined with lavash bread, which also forms the top crust. The entire thing is turned out on a platter like a rice-filled cake. Called shah plov, it is a popular treat at weddings and banquets. There is quite a bit of ceremony attached to any plov. It will be served with fanfare between the second and third courses, and the ingredients will be based on what comes before and after.

66 Dolmas (stuffed grape or cabbage leaves) are ubiquitous throughout the Caucasus, but the ones you get in Azerbaijan (called yarpaq dolmasi) have a distinctive round shape, as opposed to the tubular ones enjoyed elsewhere. They are usually filled with chopped meat, onions, rice, salt, pepper, butter, and fresh herbs such as coriander, dill and mint. Sometimes, that filling goes into a stuffed tomato dish called domates dolmasi. Both are served with a tangy yogurt sauce. A sit-down meal may start with dovgha, a cold or hot soup is made with gatigh, a fermented milk product similar to yogurt, plus eggs, rice, spinach, herbs, and occasionally, meatballs. It is a staple at weddings and other special occasions, and a good palate cleanser. Azeri people also like to drink sorbets with their meals. These are not frozen desserts, but cold beverages made from sweetened fruit juices.

For your main course you might try lavangi, which can be a whole chicken or fish stuffed with walnuts, onions and plum paste, and roasted in a clay pot. Try also piti, a slow-cooked stew of lamb, chestnuts, onions, potatoes, peas and garlic. Grilled fish, or baliq, come on a skewer and may be eaten with a sour plum sauce.

On the go? Grab some qutab, a quesadilla-like snack made from thinly rolled, unleavened dough filled with meat, cheese, herbs, pumpkin, pomegranate seeds, onions, and chestnuts. It gets cooked in a flat cast-iron pan, and you just roll it up and pop it into your mouth.

For dessert, try badambura, a flaky pastry filled with almonds, sugar, and ground cardamom. It is usually brushed with egg wash and baked until golden-brown. Badambura is traditionally made for the spring holiday called Novruz, but you can find it throughout the year. Yayma is a traditional Azerbaijani rice pudding flavored with saffron, and typically topped with butter, cinnamon, and honey. For something lighter, try mutaki, a walnut-cardamon cookie.

Russian Cuisine Russian cuisine is an amalgam of peasant food and luxurious ingredients; native foodstuffs prepared according to techniques introduced by foreign chefs; and contributions made by minority groups such as Jews, Tatars, and Georgians. Much of this has to do with the dramatic socio-political changes that affected not just the availability of certain foods, but attitudes about it. So you have Old Russian cuisine, Moscow cuisine, Soviet cuisine, modern cuisine and more.

One of the best ways to get acquainted with a variety of Russian delicacies is zakuski, the lavish spread of appetizers meant to accompany icy fingers of Russian vodka. It arose as a way to welcome guests whose arrival times could not be predicted. While the main meal was prepared, zakuski would help to mitigate the effects of the strong alcohol.

Zakuski choices will usually include caviar; an array of charcuterie meats; and smoked salmon, sturgeon (balyk) or whitefish. Blini are the crepe-like buckwheat pancakes that you can wrap all your zakuski choices in. During the pre-Lenten festival called Maslenitsa, blini are the star attraction. Another staple is selyodka pod shuba, which literally means “herring under fur coat.” It’s a platter of herring smothered with onions, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, shredded carrots, beets, and mayonnaise. Your table will also feature a huge array of pickled vegetables (from cucumbers to mushrooms to tomatoes and more); plus assorted cheeses and breads.

67 A zakuski favorite that has made its way around the world is Olivier salad, aka Russian salad. It was invented in the 1860s by a Belgian chef, Lucien Olivier, at The Hermitage, a popular Moscow restaurant. The original recipe included caviar, grouse, smoked duck, crawfish, veal tongue, and a secret sauce. Today’s version replaces the exotic fare with potatoes, carrots, eggs, peas, pickles, and chicken or beef in a mayonnaise sauce. It is a must on New Year’s Eve.

Russian pirozhki are pan-fried or oven-baked turnovers stuffed with just about anything: meat, fish, egg, potato, cabbage, cottage cheese, or jam. You might also find pelmeni, which are dumplings that can be filled with beef lamb, pork, or chicken. (A vegetarian version called vareniki can be filled with potatoes, mushrooms, cabbage, sweet cottage cheese or cherries.)

Russians love soup and there are dozens of delicious varieties. Try rassolnik, chicken soup with pickles; salanka meat soup with olives and sausages; or uha (fish soup.) The king of Russian soups is borscht, a red beet soup that may also include meat, potatoes, carrots, or tomatoes. It’s usually served with dill and sour cream, and can be enjoyed hot or cold.

As for main courses, one internationally loved Russian dish is Beef Stroganoff. Named after a 19th century count, it is made with beef, onions, and mushrooms, sautéed in white wine and sour cream. Another dish with a complicated provenance is Chicken Kiev. It is neither Kievan nor even Ukrainian, and was created by a French chef in St. Petersburg or Moscow. It was popular with sophisticated diners in postwar New York and Chicago, and soon the Soviets offered it in state- owned hotels and restaurants. Pedigree aside, the dish is a breaded chicken cutlet stuffed with a roll of seasoned butter and fried. If done correctly, the butter does not completely melt.

For dessert try medovik, a super sweet honey cake made with sour cream, custard and dried fruit, or buttercream and walnuts. Ptichye Moloko (“bird’s milk”) is a cake or candy made with marshmallow coated in chocolate. Another marshmallow treat is zefir, a puffy shell filled with puréed apples, berries or peaches.

Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

68 Crafts & Souvenirs

Georgia With plenty of artisan shops in the capital city Tbilisi, you’ll soon find that handmade items are the best souvenirs you can buy in Georgia. Blue and white tablecloths known as supra have been part of the country’s culture for centuries and have designs featuring birds, deer, and other figures. Traditional drinking horns called kantsi are also popular choice, as are textiles and ceramics. Although not handmade, brightly colored khinkali socks are another unique souvenir— the print is of traditional Georgian dumplings. You may also wish to take some of Georgia’s famous wine back home.

Bargaining: Bargaining is common in open-air markets, but not in shops.

Armenia Traditional souvenirs include carpets, dried fruits or fruit leather, decorative tiles, jewelry with natural stones, soviet coins, local cognac, and anything with pomegranates (the symbol of Armenia) or famed leader Tigran the Great on it. Kachkars are carved stone decorations with crosses and other symbols; mushurbas are metalwork “gurgling cups”, so-called because of the noise they make while in use.

Bargaining: Prices are generally fixed, except at open-air markets, where some bargaining is expected.

Azerbaijan Traditional souvenirs include woven carpets, gold and silver jewelry, ceramics, oil paintings, woven products with the national pattern (Buta), copper cookware, and homemade jams in unique flavors, such as white cherry.

Bargaining: In Azerbaijan, prices are usually flexible and negotiating is normal. The only rule is that if you make an offer, you should be prepared to buy at that price. Bring a mix of small bills so that you can pay in exact change.

Russia Among the best buys in Russia are black caviar (sold in small sealed jars), the traditional Russian wooden nest of dolls (matryoshkas), hand-embroidered shirts and blouses, balalaikas, samovars, watches (Raketa brand and military watches), chess sets, pure wool scarves, lacquer boxes, hats, vodka, amber, malachite jewelry, porcelain and books. You’ll also find a variety of small Christmas and Easter gifts made by Russian craftsmen for sale throughout the year that make great unique presents for friends.

To bring back a little of Russia with you, you have some traditional items to choose from. The blue and white Russian porcelain Gzhel is used for vases, table settings, some delicate toys, and figurines. Nesting dolls are also widely available in St Petersburg, as well as Russian and

69 Ukrainian style shirts with intricate embroidery. Palekh boxes (brightly colored and lacquered with native artwork) are on sale in better souvenir shops. Kiosks offer amber and silver jewelry, and some churches allow you to purchase Russian Orthodox religious items.

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

70 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Georgia

Facts, Figures, & National Holidays • Area: 26,911 square miles

• Capital: Tbilisi

• Government: Semi-presidential republic

• Languages: The official language is Georgian

• Location: Georgia is a country in the Caucasus region. Situated at the juncture of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, it is bounded to the west by the Black Sea, to the north by Russia, to the south by Turkey and Armenia, and to the east by Azerbaijan.

• Geography: The terrain is largely mountainous with the Great Caucasus Mountains in the north and Lesser Caucasus Mountains in the south, lowlands that open to the Black Sea in the west, and the Mtkvari River Basin in the east.

• Population: 3.997 million (estimate)

• Religion: Eastern Orthodox 83.4%, Muslim 10.7%, Armenian Apostolic 2.9%, other or unaffiliated 2.9%

• Time Zone: Georgia Standard Time: four hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, or nine hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time.When it is noon in Georgia, it is 3am in New York, and midnight in Los Angeles. Georgia does not observe Daylight Savings time, so during the summer months these times would be 1 hour different (so noon in Georgia would be 4am in New York and 1am in LA).

71 National Holidays: Georgia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 International Women’s Day Georgia celebrates a number of national 04/09 Day of National Unity holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling 05/09 Day of Victory over Fascism during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/12 St. Andrew’s Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 05/26 Independence Day

01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 08/28 St. Mary’s Day

01/19 Orthodox Epiphany 10/14 Svetitskovloba (first Christian church in Georgia) 03/03 Mother’s Day 11/23 St. George’s Day

Georgia: A Brief History Archaeological evidence of human habitation in the region of present-day Georgia dates back almost two million years. Archaeologists have also traced the world’s earliest known wine creation to the people of the South Caucasus in around 6,000 BCE—a time when early Georgians discovered that grape juice buried underground in clay pots for the winter would turn into wine. Over the millennia, the early Georgian Colchis Kingdom had contact with the Greeks, giving way to the legends of Jason and the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece.

Early in the fourth century CE, Georgia became the second country in the world to convert to Christianity (a half century after Armenia), followed by the development of a unique alphabet with characters specific to the Georgian language that helped spread Christianity throughout the country. Then, in the 5th century CE, western Georgia became tied to the expanding Byzantine Empire, while the eastern and southern regions fell under Persian control. The Persians were then briefly driven out by the man considered to be the father of the Georgian nation, King Vakhtang Gorgasali, who moved his capital from Mtskheta to Tbilisi. In 654, Arab invaders set up an emirate Tbilisi.

After time spent under the Persian, Arab, and Turkish empires, the 11th through the 13th centuries would represent Georgia’s Golden Age, a period when it flourished as a regional center of education, science, and literature. Just as the Georgian Empire reached its zenith, the Mongols arrived in 1220 and ended up ruling for the next century. Then, Timur (Tamerlane), the Turco- Mongol scourge of Central Asia, invaded Georgia eight times between 1386 and 1403, ravaging the country but never establishing firm control over Christian Georgia.

By the middle of the 15th century, a unified kingdom of Georgia collapsed, fragmenting into several independent kingdoms. Neighboring Persian and Ottoman Empires took advantage of a weakened Georgia and conquered and occupied most territories for the next two centuries. Finally, in 1762, Heraclius II became the king of a unified Georgia for the first time in three centuries. But searching for a reliable protector to ensure Georgia’s survival, Heraclius then signed the Treaty of Georgievsk in 1783, which made Georgia a Russian protectorate.

72 After a Persian invasion in 1795, the Russian Empire formally annexes Georgia in 1801. Under Russian rule, almost all Georgian territories taken by the Persian and Ottoman Empires are recovered. Then, following the Russian Revolution and collapse of the Russian Empire, Georgia declares its independence in 1918—the first time it is free since its Golden Age. It didn’t last long, however. In 1921, the fledgling Georgian state was absorbed into the U.S.S.R., and would remain so until the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991.

While declaring its independence in 1991, the next several years were difficult times in Georgia. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the disputed regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia (backed by Russia) declared their independence and broke away from Georgia. A five-day war between Georgia and Russia in August 2008 resulted in the expulsion of ethnic Georgians from South Ossetia. While both regions receive military and economic aid from Russia, the international community still considers them to be a part of Georgian territory.

Armenia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 11,484 square miles

• Capital: Yerevan

• Government: Republic

• Languages: The official language is Armenian

• Location: Southwestern Asia, between Turkey (to the west) and Azerbaijan

• Geography: Most of the country is in the Armenian Highlands with mountains, although there are some forests and valleys like Aras River valley.

• Population: 2.973 million (estimate)

• Religion: Armenian Apostolic 92.6%, Evangelical 1%, other or none 6.9%

• Time Zone: Armenia Standard Time: four hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, or nine hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. When it is noon in Armenia, it is 3am in New York, and midnight in Los Angeles. Armenia does not observe Daylight Saving time, so during the summer months these times would be 1 hour different (so noon in Armenia would be 4am in New York and 1am in LA).

73 National Holidays: Armenia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 04/24 Genocide Remembrance Day Armenia celebrates a number of national 04/25 Citizen’s Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling 05/01 Labor Day during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/09 Victory and Peace Day

01/01-01/04 New Year’s 05/28 Republic Day

01/06 Armenian Christmas 07/05 Constitution Day

01/28 Army Day 09/21 Independence Day

03/08 International Women’s Day 12/31 New Year’s Eve

Armenia: A Brief History The oldest known ancestors of modern Armenians are the Hayasa-Azzi, a Bronze-Age tribal group who settled in the lands surrounding Mount Ararat and sections of modern-day Turkey. The Hayasa-Azzi mixed with other local tribes, which led to the founding of the Kingdom of Urartu (Assyrian for “Ararat”) in the 9th century BCE, comprised of several smaller kingdoms across Armenia, eastern Turkey, and northwestern Iran. In the late 8th century BCE, the Urartian king Argishti I founded the Armenian capital of Yerevan.

Following the decline of the Kingdom of Urartu, another Armenian kingdom was established by the Ervanduni Dynasty, which was eventually subdued by Achaemenian Iran. Due to invasions of Alexander the Great in the fourth century BCE, Armenia then found itself embroiled in the Hellenic world. Then, late in the first century BCE, Armenia was unified under King Tigranes the Great to become one of the most powerful empires in Asia. But it didn’t last long.

By 30 BCE, Rome conquered the Armenian Empire, and for the next four centuries Armenia would find itself smack in the middle of two powerful empires—the Roman and Persian. But in 301 CE, Armenia adopted Christianity as a state religion to become the first Christian nation in the world. And just a century later, the Armenian alphabet was created, which helped to preserve the Armenian language and culture and protect Armenians against assimilation during the centuries of invasions to come.

In the ensuing centuries, Armenia’s prime geographical position at the crossroads of the Silk Road left it vulnerable to a number of invaders: Turks, Mongols, Egyptians, Byzantines, until it was once again divided between powerful empires—the Ottoman Empire (most of western Armenia) and Persian Empire (eastern Armenia, including the capital Yerevan) in the 14th century. Then, with the demise of the Persian Empire in the 19th century, eastern Armenia was annexed by the Russian Empire, while the western region remained under Turkish rule.

74 As Christians in a Muslim country, Armenians did not fare well under Ottoman rule. In the early years of the 20th century, when many Western nations raised concerns about the treatment of the Armenian people, the response by the now crumbling Ottoman Empire was to forcibly evict the entire Armenian population leading to the deaths of about 1.5 million Armenians in what is now known as the Armenian Genocide—which began on April 24, 1915.

Following World War I, Armenia was briefly united with Georgia and Azerbaijan it a newly created Caucasian Federation. Then Armenia formed an independent republic from 1918 until 1920, when it was invaded by forces from Turkey and the Soviet Union. Armenia would remain under Soviet power until declaring independence in 1991. Today, Armenia counts itself among a number of post-Soviet republics that has established itself as proud independent nation for the first time in thousands of years.

Azerbaijan

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 33,436 square miles

• Capital: Baku

• Government: Presidential Republic

• Languages: The official language is Azerbaijani

• Location: Azerbaijan is located in southwestern Asia, bordering the Caspian Sea between Iran, Armenia, and Russia.

• Geography: Azerbaijan is about the size of Maine and has a varied geography. Azerbaijan is surrounded by the Greater Caucasus mountain range along the northern Russian border and the Lesser Caucasus mountains along the Armenian border with sloping hills and mineral springs. There are eight large rivers which flow from the mountains through the lowlands into the Caspian Sea.

• Population: 9,961,396 (estimate)

• Religion: Muslim 96.9%, Christian 3%, other <0.1%, unaffiliated <0.1%

• Time Zone: Azerbaijan goes by Gulf Standard time: four hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, or eight hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. When it is noon in Azerbaijan, it’s 4 am in New York, and 1 am in Los Angeles. Azerbaijan does not observe Daylight Savings time, so during the summer months Azerbaijan is an additional hour ahead of the U.S.

75 National Holidays: Azerbaijan

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 Women’s Day Azerbaijan celebrates a number of national 03/20 Nowruz/Spring Holiday holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Ramadan and Feast of the Sacrifice. Some 05/09 Victory Day over Fascism of these holidays may be observed on the following Monday if the holiday falls on 05/28 Republic Day a weekend day. To find out if you will be 06/15 The Day of National Salvation of the traveling during these holidays, please visit Azerbaijan People www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 06/26 Azerbaijan Armed Forces 01/01 New Year’s Day 11/09 State Flag Day 01/20 Martyr’s Day 12/31 World Azerbaijan Solidarity Day

Azerbaijan: A Brief History Up until the end of the 20th century, Azerbaijan has enjoyed only brief periods of independence. It was part of Persia, overrun by Mongols, conquered by Ottoman Turks, disputed by Armenia, and annexed by Russia and later, the USSR. Its religion has changed several times, as has have its borders and its very name. In fact, no specifically Azerbaijani state existed before 1918.

The historic region now called Azerbaijan was known to the ancients as Caucasian Albania (unrelated to the modern Adriatic nation). It was closely linked to Persia, and from the 6th century BC, the Zoroastrian religion was dominant. Starting around 625 AD, the people began adopting Christianity, and came under the cultural influence of the Armenians. By the 7th century, Arabs began advancing into Caucasian Albania, consolidating power through local rulers called shahanshahs. Next came the Seljuks, who brought with them the Turkic language that is the basis of the modern Azeri (Azerbaijani) language spoken today. They also built impressive fortified cities, but they could not withstand the devastation wrought by the Mongol invasions that began with the start of the 13th century, and were complete by 1235.

Even during the Mongol era, one polity survived and that was the Shirvan Shah dynasty, which lasted from the mid-9th to the early 16th century. Originating from the Caspian region that presently includes the capital of Baku, the Shirvan dynasty fostered a golden age of art and culture. Modern Azerbaijanis identify with it as a forerunner to the Azerbaijani state.

By the 18th century, the region had fragmented into a collection of autonomous khanates. Fearful of a re-emerging Persia, they turned to imperial Russia for help, but got more than they asked for when Russia annexed them. To solidify their control, Russia began transplanting Christians from Russia, Armenia and even Germany, a move that set the stage for later ethnic conflicts. After the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, Russian Azerbaijan joined forces with Armenia and Georgia to form the anti-Bolshevik Transcaucasian Federation. It lasted less than a year and when Azerbaijan then proclaimed its own independence in 1920, the Red Army stepped in and made it a Soviet republic.

76 Over the next decades Azerbaijan’s borders shifted, causing ongoing tension with neighboring Armenia. But it remained part of the USSR, and suffered greatly during the Stalinist purges that killed or imprisoned more than 100,000 Azeris. Throughout this period, there were enclaves of ethnic Armenians living in Azerbaijan, and vice versa. In the 1980s, disputes over the sovereignty and status of these minorities erupted into violence bordering on ethnic cleansing. After the Soviets intervened by sending the Red Army into Baku, killing dozens of civilians, the people of Azerbaijan declared (and won) independence in 1991.

That was not the end of the ethnic struggle. A large-scale conflict broke out between Armenia and Azerbaijan in 1992, and the Armenian side took over major areas of Azerbaijani territory. In 1994, a ceasefire was reached with Russian mediation. But still, a million Azeris were displaced. Money from Azerbaijan’s oil boom helped to provide housing and services for some, but it came very late in the game. That oil wealth has also transformed the look of the capital, with its glittering modernist skyline, and is now invigorating regional cities across the country.

Russia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 6,601,670 square miles, the largest country on Earth

• Capital: Moscow

• Language: Russian.

• Location: Russia spans two continents, with the part west of the Urals considered to be in Europe while the rest of the country is in Asia. On its west, Russia is bordered by Norway, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Belarus, Ukraine, and the Black Sea. On the south, the Russian border touches Georgia, Azerbaijan, the Caspian Sea, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and China. The North Pacific Ocean defines Russia’s eastern edge, and the Arctic Ocean lies to Russia’s north.

• Population: 142,423,773 (estimate)

• Religion: Russian Orthodox 15-20%, Muslim 10-15%, other Christian 2%

• Time zone: From April through most of September, Moscow and St. Petersburg are 8 hours ahead of U.S. Eastern Daylight Time, 11 hours ahead of U.S. Pacific Daylight Time.

77 National Holidays: Russia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 International Women’s Day Russia celebrates a number of national April or May Orthodox Easter (moves holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such each year) as New Year Holiday Week. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please 05/01 Labor Day visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/09 Victory Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 06/12 Russia Day 01/07 Orthodox Christmas Day 11/04 Unity Day (observed on Monday when 02/23 Defender of the Fatherland Day falls on a weekend)

Russia: A Brief History With a history as sprawling as its physical borders, the arc of Russia is nothing short of epic. No summary can do justice to the historical currents that still pulse through modern Russian consciousness. But a good starting point is 862 AD, the birth of Rus, the first Russian state established by the Varangians (Vikings), who ruled the resident Slavs and Finno-Ugric people. It began in Novgorod, and gradually absorbed the region around Kiev to form Kievan Rus.

Kievan Rus was derailed for 300 years after the Mongol invasion in 1223. A hero of this age was Alexander Nevsky, who managed to preserve the Russian state and Russian Orthodoxy. The most transformative of all rulers was Peter the Great (1689-1725), who dragged Russia into the modern age, “kicking and screaming.” A giant in stature as well as impact (Peter was 6’8”), he defeated Sweden in the Great Northern War; founded a dazzling new capital, St. Petersburg; and made Russia a world power. Forty years later, his spirit lived on in Catherine the Great, a fan of Enlightenment thinking but also expansionism: She annexed the Crimea, Poland, and beyond.

Serfdom was abolished in 1861, but the misery of the peasants continued. Revolutionaries mobilized the industrial working class just as the nation had suffered disastrous wars, economic crises, and a tone-deaf monarchy. It led to widespread rioting and the murder of the last Romanovs. The 1917 Russian Revolution burned on as Marxist Bolsheviks seized power under Vladimir Lenin. A civil war ensued, the Communists won, and the Soviet Union was born in 1922.

After Lenin’s death in 1924, Josef Stalin became the dictator. Trotsky and other “Old Bolsheviks” were killed or exiled. As the 1930s began, Stalin launched the Great Purges, when millions were executed or exiled to Siberia. The USSR became an industrial power, but there was widespread misery. Soon there was a distraction: World War II, called the Great Patriotic War in Russia.

At first, Russia struck a secret deal with Germany: The 1939 Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, a non- aggression treaty that carved Europe into German and Soviet spheres. In 1940 the USSR annexed Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. But soon Germany marched into the new Soviet territories and right up to Moscow. The Red Army stopped the Nazis at Stalingrad in 1943 and drove them back,

78 capturing Berlin before Germany surrendered in 1945. During the war the Soviet Union lost more than 27 million citizens (including 18 million civilians), the highest recorded losses for any military conflict the world has ever known.

The Red Army continued to occupy Eastern Europe after the war, installing satellite states as the US helped Western Europe stabilize. Both powers sought dominance over the Third World during the Cold War. Stalin died in 1953 and Nikita Khrushchev took over. He instituted reforms, presided over the space race, and faced less stellar events like the Cuban Missile Crisis and an escalating arms race. Things changed in the ‘80s with Mikhail Gorbachev and his policies of glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring). However, an unsuccessful military coup that tried to remove him instead led to the collapse of the Soviet Union. Boris Yeltsin came to power, the USSR splintered into 15 republics, and was officially dissolved in December, 1991.

Vladimir Putin was elected in 2000. Though Putin is still the most popular Russian politician, controversies include increased state control of the media, government influence on elections (in Russia and abroad), the murder of dissidents, and ongoing Ukrainian interference. At the same time, high oil prices boosted Russia’s economy and standard of living. In 2018 Putin won his fourth term, which will last until 2024—barring any further constitutional manipulation.

79 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

Georgia The Caucasus: An Introduction by Thomas de Waal (2nd Ed 2018, History) An accessible overview of the complex history and region of Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia. Includes coverage of Georgia’s break-away regions, the “Five-Day-War” between Russia and Georgia, and recent political upheavals in all three countries.

For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey Through the World’s Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring (2016 Non-Fiction) A lively account by an acclaimed journalist who meets with winemakers, craftspeople, and artists throughout Georgia while collecting recipes and stories.

The Eighth Life: (for Brilka) by Nino Haratischvili (2014, Fiction) Tells the story of one Georgian family as they protect a secret recipe for chocolate throughout the ups and downs of their county during the 20th century.

My Dear Son: The Memoirs of Stalin’s Mother by Keke Jughashvili (2012, Memoir) Preserved in an archive for 70 years, the book is a transcript of the memories of Ekaterine (Keke) Jughashvili, Georgian-born Stalin’s mother, which she dictated in 1935, two years before her death. It does make for fascinating reading.

Stories I Stole by Wendell Steavenson (2003 Travel Literature) Very well received book from a journalist at Time’s London office who leaves her job on whim to spend two adventurous wine- soaked years getting to know the former Soviet Republic of Georgia.

Please Don’t Call it Soviet Georgia by Mary Russell (1992, Travelogue). English traveler and author Mary Russell records her impressions of traveling through Georgia following the break-up of the Soviet Union as Georgia begins its path to independence.

Armenia The Spice Box Letters by Eve Makis (2015, Fiction) When Katerina finds a hidden diary in a spice box she inherited from her grandmother, it sets her off on a quest to find out more about her grandmother’s life and how it was impacted by the Armenian tragedy of 1915.

The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian (2013, Historical Fiction) From the bestselling author of Midwives, this is a deeply moving love story an American volunteer and an Armenian engineer set against the backdrop of the Armenian Genocide. The author is also the grandson of survivors of the Armenian Genocide.

The Crossing Place: A Journey Among the Armenians by Philip Marsden (1994, Travel/History) The noted English travel writer Philip Marsden recounts his travels through the Middle East, Eastern Europe, and the Caucasus in search of the Armenian diaspora.

80 Visions of Ararat: Writings on Armenia by Christopher J. Walker, Editor (2005, Anthology). A fine collection of the best writing on Armenia by travel writers, historians, soldiers, artists, and more.

The Hundred-Year Walk: An Armenian Odyssey by Dawn Anahid MacKeen (2016, History/Memoir) An award-winning journalist recounts the harrowing story of her grandfather, who escaped death during World War I at the hands of the Ottoman Turks who set out to exterminate Turkey’s large ethnic Armenian population.

Azerbaijan Solar Plexus, A Baku Saga in Four Parts by Rustam Ibragimbekov (Fiction, 2012) This saga spans the years between 1940 and the 1990s to explore lives and loves of families and friends who all grew up around a certain courtyard in Baku.

The Black Garden by Thomas de Wael (2013, Nonfiction) When first published in 2003, this was the definitive study of how Armenia and Azerbaijan were pulled into a conflict that helped deliver their independence and end the Soviet Union, but left a residue of suffering and simmering tension. This updated edition has new material covering events through 2011.

Azerbaijan Diary: A Rogue Reporter’s Adventures in an Oil-rich, War-torn, Post-Soviet Republic by Thomas Goltz (1998, History/Memoir) A first-person account of life in post-USSR Azerbaijan written by an American reporter.

The Colonel’s Mistake by Dan Mayland (2012, Fiction) The first of the Mark Sava spy novel series. It follows an ex-CIA station chief attempting to live a quiet life as a professor in Baku. But complications both political and personal keep drawing him back to the world of high-stakes espionage.

Ali and Nino by Kurban Said (1937, Fiction) A love story between a Muslim Azerbaijani boy and a Christian Georgian girl at the end of World War I. Although first written in the ‘30s, it is frequently reissued as it is considered a classic.

Russia Peter the Great, His Life, and World (1980); The Romanovs, The Final Chapter (1995); and Nicholas and Alexandra (1967) by Robert Massie (Biography/History) Three definitive works by the Pulitzer Prize-winning historian. Massie portrays a giant of history in Peter the Great; unfolds the mystery of what might be the remains of the Romanovs in The Final Chapter; and dazzles with the fairytale romance of the last emperor and his bride in Nicholas and Alexandra.

Russia, A Concise History by Ronald Hingley (1991, History) A readable, condensed history of Russia’s multiple transformations by a well-known Russian scholar.

A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles (2014, Fiction) In 1922, Count Alexander Rostov is sentenced to lifelong house arrest in Moscow’s Metropol Hotel. Though physically constrained, his life becomes more emotionally expansive as he contends with the events of 30 years of Russian history.

81 The Night Witches by Russ Braun and Garth Ennis (2019, Graphic Novel/Historical Fiction) During World War II, a new breed of fighter pilot emerges to defend the Soviet Motherland—the all-female Night Witches. Piloting obsolete biplanes, these heroines patrol the lethal skies above the Eastern Front, but as the young Lieutenant Anna Kharkova discovers, the Nazi foe has a homegrown counterpart in Stalin’s secret police.

Putin Country: A Journey into the Real Russia by Anne Garrels (2017, Nonfiction) A longtime NPR foreign correspondent looks beyond the capitals of Moscow and St. Petersburg to better understand life for the ordinary Russians who comprise Vladimir Putin’s political base.

Secondhand Time by Svetlana Alexievich (2013, Memoir) The author won the Nobel Prize for inventing a “new kind of literary genre” that gathers a chorus of voices to describe a specific historical moment. Here, her interviewees chronicle the demise of Soviet communism over thirty years, with stunning emotional resonance and clarity.

Russian Stories edited by Christoph Keller (2019, Fiction) If you don’t have time to read the heavyweights, this anthology brings together classic tales from the likes of Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, and Chekhov along with their most acclaimed contemporary heirs.

Suggested Film & Video

Georgia Since Otar Left (2003, Drama) A touching story about the lives of three Georgian women living in Tbilisi, which is still struggling with power and water outages after the break-up of the Soviet Union. The mother and daughter attempts to hide the fate of beloved Otar (who lives in Paris and is not seen by the audience) from their elderly grandmother. French with English subtitles.

Father of a Soldier (1964, War) This WWII classic recounts the story of an aging Georgian winemaker searching for his son, an army lieutenant who has been injured—but when the father arrives at the hospital, his son has already been sent back to the front. This award-winning film about the strength of family bonds is often available on Amazon Prime and is worth seeking out. Russian with English subtitles.

Tangerines (2014 War). Considered a small masterpiece, the film takes place in 1992, when the Georgian region of Abkhazia fights to secede and an Estonian man wants to harvest his crop of tangerines while war rages on around him. Georgian with English subtitles (should be available on Amazon’s video service).

Armenia The Color of Pomegranates (1968, Avant-Garde/Art) A visually stunning film by famous Soviet director Sergei Parajanov recounts the life and works of eighteenth-century Armenian poet Sayat-Nova. This revolutionary work of filmmaking reveals the splendor of Armenian culture, but with all surreal images and little dialogue, it may not be for everyone. Russian with English subtitles.

82 Yeva (2017, Drama) Critically acclaimed Armenian/Iranian film tells the story of a young woman in Yerevan who escapes with her daughter to a small village following the tragic death of her husband. Armenian with English subtitles.

Azerbaijan Ali and Nino (2016, Drama) Based on a famous novel, this story depicts the forbidden love between a Muslim boy from Baku and a Christian girl from Georgia. Set during World War I, it is a vivid portrayal of life in Azerbaijan 100 years ago.

Buta (2017, Drama) A seven year-old boy who has lost his mother is befriended by an old man, a soap merchant who once loved the boy’s grandmother. The title refers to a carpet pattern that signifies love.

Absurdistan (2008, Satire) Filmed in Azerbaijan (but set in an indeterminate country in the Caucasus), this comedy is about a forgotten village where the water supply is threatened by a broken pipeline. When the men of the town fail to address the issue, the women go on a sex strike to force some action. Young lovers Aya and Temelko are caught in the middle.

Russia The Dawns Here are Quiet (1972, Drama) An Academy Award nominee for Best Foreign Film. Heroism knows no gender in this heartbreaking World War II story about female Russian soldiers sent to fight Germans in the Karelian forest (near Finland). Their male sergeant (who has asked for troops who don’t drink or chase after women) is shocked when he sees that his new anti- aircraft gunners are young women, but a mutual respect gradually evolves. The WWII scenes are shot in black and white and the backstories of the women are in color.

The Death of Stalin (2017, Satire) As the dictator is dying of a cerebral hemorrhage, his Council of Ministers scrambles to grab power for themselves. Scheming, treachery, horror and plenty of black comedy ensue, courtesy of a brilliant cast that includes Steve Buscemi as Nikita Kruschev and Jeffrey Tambor as Malenkov, Michael Palin as Molotov, and the brilliant Simon Russell Beale as the depraved head of the secret police, Beria. From one of the creators of Veep.

Russia: Land of the Tsars (2003, Documentary) Filmed on location in Russia by the A&E crew, this documentary captures the imperial history of the Tsars. Look for the special edition set that includes bonus episodes from the TV show A&E Biography on Peter the Great, Ivan the Terrible, and Rasputin.

Russian Ark (2002, Historical Fantasy) Three centuries of Russian history unfold in this breathtaking film, which consists of one entirely unbroken shot as the camera (and an unseen narrator) glides through the Winter Palace of the Hermitage. We meet famous characters overhear whispered conversations, spy on state meetings, and also glimpse the Hermitage’s fabled artwork.

Catherine the Great (2019, Historical Miniseries) Helen Mirren plays the aging empress, who, along with her lover and advisor Grigory Potemkim, expanded the borders of Russia and launched its rise as a major European power. Awash in sumptuous period details, the series reveals an

83 amazing woman who outsmarted a succession of ruthless, petty, and grasping men. Confident in her power and free in her sexuality, Catherine was unfairly maligned by those same men. Mirren redeems her.

Useful Websites

Overseas Adventure Travel World Weather www.oattravel.com www.intellicast.com www.weather.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.wunderground.com www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) Overseas Adventure Travel Frequently www.travlang.com/languages Asked Questions www.oattravel.com/faq Packing Tips www.travelite.org International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) U.S. Customs & Border Protection http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.cbp.gov/travel

Electricity & Plugs Transportation Security www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ Administration (TSA) plugs-and-sockets www.tsa.gov

Foreign Exchange Rates National Passport Information Center www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.travel.state.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic Holidays Worldwide ATM Locators www.timeanddate.com/holidays www.mastercard.com/atm www.visa.com/atmlocator

84 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Land Tours

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a non- ADVENTURES contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against • All meals are served by the dining staff— COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure buffets are no longer available. and provide proof of vaccination upon VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND boarding the ship. If you are unable to UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY PROTOCOLS provide proof of vaccination upon arrival at FOR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES ON LAND your destination, you will have to return • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against home at your own expense. COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure. If To meet this requirement, please bring your you are unable to provide proof of vaccination original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card upon arrival at your destination, you will with you on your trip. The white card must have to return home at your own expense. display your name, type of vaccine, and the To meet this requirement, please bring your date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card with suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for you on your trip. The white card must display your records as a backup. your name, type of vaccine, and the date(s) • All local Trip Experience Leaders, the vaccine was administered. We also suggest fully ship staff, and crew will be taking a picture of this card to keep for your vaccinated against COVID-19. records as a backup. fully • All coach drivers will be • All local Trip Experience Leaders will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. vaccinated against COVID-19. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated all ships are equipped with High Efficiency against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Help us ensure travelers’ safety and health while on our trips. Please follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness—wash your hands regularly and cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

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91 YOUR TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADER

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