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LONDON THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

AUTUMN 2017 EXCLUSIVE PRESTIGE BEAUTY SUPPLEMENT INSIDE

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17622.007 In London Moisturising Soft Lotion DPS.indd 1 IL LA MER.indd 3 24/08/201722/08/2017 08:4214:39 A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

or anyone with a penchant for the fi ner things Saatchi Gallery on September 27. No less hypnotic in life, London’s autumn season has been is the rather beautiful work of Rowan Mersh. Having F defi ned by one increasingly dominant aspect of chosen seashells as his medium, his sculptural pieces, the luxury industry: art. The debut of Frieze London which are deeply personal expressions of Mersh’s in 2003 set the wheels in motion for an explosion in life, elevate the everyday into something quite the capital’s calendar of autumnal cultural escapades. extraordinary. Turn to pages 18 and 57 respectively. Now art fairs, including START at the Saatchi Gallery Elsewhere in this edition, we have relied on the and PAD London in Berkeley Square, and events such stunning photography of Andy Barter to capture as Dance Umbrella and the EFG London Jazz Festival, IN London’s favourite objets d’art (page 46) and are proving more popular than ever. we put Ben Harries behind the lens and asked him It was with this in mind that IN London’s editorial to forget the constraints of suits and tailoring for team decided to take a curated approach to the a moment and instead imbue high-end menswear subject, celebrating art at a cerebral level – a decision with a casual aesthetic. The result is The Artist, our that I’m sure any lover of luxury will appreciate. fashion story that can be viewed on page 36. 8 To kick things off then, Lois Bryson-Edmett delves Finally, I’m delighted that IN London has once into the worlds of Kate MccGwire and Rowan again partnered with The Estée Lauder Companies Mersh, sculptors for whom the natural world is at to bring you its exclusive beauty and grooming the heart of their artistic practice. Prestige Beauty supplement. Found on the back MccGwire’s undulating pieces fashioned from page of this edition, the guide gathers together the feathers are at once beautifully arresting and wholly latest trends, advice from key infl uencers and new unsettling – a dichotomy that can be viewed when product information from across the company’s one of her pieces, Corvid, goes on display at the luxury portfolio of brands. I hope you enjoy it.

Kathryn Conway, Group Editor

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IL CALLEIJA.indd 1 15/08/2017 14:29 THE GUEST LIST

ANDY BARTER LAURA MCCREDDIE-DOAK DAVID G. TAYLOR

When Andy Barter moved to One of only a handful of female Former London correspondent London to pursue a career in writers to specialise in watches, for the Sydney-based luxury art photography, it was the world Laura McCreddie-Doak is an publisher Studio and a regular of advertising, with its elaborate expert in what to look for in a contributor to IN London, shoots, that caught his creative eye. piece, giving fascinating insights David G. Taylor is an invaluable After honing his skills assisting on into a sector of the luxury market guide to art, culture and fashion 10 campaigns for cars, Barter set out that is constantly in fl ux. On page in the capital. On page 52, Taylor on his own to focus on still life 30, McCreddie-Doak takes a look looks back over the career of – his expertise in which can be at the revival of métiers d’art in radical artist Rachel Whiteread seen on page 46. It’s not always watchmaking and fi nds that brands ahead of a major exhibition at Tate easy to do justice to a work of art, from Cartier to newcomer ArtyA Britain and fi nds there is beauty but with Barter behind the lens are now dabbling in the ancient in the domestic environment as the pieces featured are given techniques used to craft decorative humble materials are transformed the spotlight they deserve. dials for modern timepieces. into large-scale works and objects.

THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE FOR LONDON

GROUP EDITOR Kathryn Conway  ASSISTANT EDITOR & DIGITAL EDITOR Lois Bryson-Edmett  SUB EDITOR Anna Frame FASHION DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE Thea Lewis-Yates  GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton  SENIOR DESIGNER Grant Pearce  DESIGNER Margaux Carpier PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt  CONTRIBUTORS Andy Barter, Ben Harries, David Hawkins, Emma Levine, Laura McCreddie-Doak, Sam Rogg, Beatrice Squires, David G. Taylor  PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION DIRECTOR Mel Needham  SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER David Weeks PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER David Pollard  SALES DIRECTOR, LUXURY Gemma Ryder  SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, LUXURY Emma Gosling SALES DIRECTOR, TOURISM Rob Way  SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER, TOURISM Charlotte Johnson-Last HOTEL & CONCIERGE SERVICES DIRECTOR Samantha Johnson  SENIOR MARKETING, DISTRIBUTION & PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Graham Randell SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR Ana Martinez  SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Elizabeth Askew & Dominique Marchi MANAGING DIRECTOR, EUROPE Chris Manning  PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stewart Dymock  CONTENT DIRECTOR Chris Johnson OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Bridget Mastino  OPERATIONS ASSISTANT Vinetta Swan  OFFICE COORDINATOR Ewa Laskowska Contact via email at: [email protected]

IN LONDON is published by Morris Visitor Publications © Morris Visitor Publications 2017. Seven pounds where sold. ISSN 1742-0857. Second Floor, Samuel House, 6 St. Alban’s Street, London, SW1Y 4SQ, UK. Tel: 020 7242 5222. Fax: 020 7242 4184. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, ISO 14001 accredited. The papers used for this magazine are produced from certiﬁ ed sustainable sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. Please recycle this magazine or return it to your hotel. Morris Visitor Publications is a subsidiary of Morris Communications Company LLC, Augusta, GA, USA. CHAIRMAN: William S. Morris III. PRESIDENT AND CEO: William S. Morris IV.

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ke 14. SCulpTural bEauTy 62. ThE big friEzE bers On Pushing the boundaries of possibility in glass Frieze London returns to Regent’s Park (2007-8) by ra O.uk). em

.c up the artist, mi artist, the On 16. uNiTEd viSual arTiSTS 64. ThE CulTurE diary ne Of li Exploring the work of this dynamic The capital’s best cultural happenings : rtesy rtesy London-based art practice nset Ou 66. ThE arT Of EaTiNg

18. uNEarThly CrEaTurES Beatrice Squires enjoys the theatre of dining c raph Lois Bryson-Edmett gets to grips with the at the city’s best restaurants OctOber 18-22). i phOtOg beautifully perturbing work of Kate MccGwire (www.janeembers linen 70. ChOp aNd ChaNgE 25. rEiNvENTiNg TradiTiON A guide to arty eateries Shining a spotlight on needlepoint for the

modern age with Hunt & Hope 72. lONdON’S auTumN SEaSON ( fair art dable , mixed media On media mixed , Or

London & Partners outline the exciting On 30. piCTurE pErfECT events awaiting visitors this autumn Laura McCreddie-Doak discusses the evolution of métiers d’art in watches 76. havENS Of CrEaTiviTy the affk at

Artists will find a perfect retreat in the embers jane by 36. ThE arTiST Scottish Highlands, says Kathryn Conway

gaia iii iii gaia IN London takes a relaxed approach to menswear w Or her see in a story photographed exclusively by Ben Harries 80. jOurNEy TO a maSTErpiECE Over: Take a driving tour to Constable Country 46. ObjECTS Of dESirE Stylist David Hawkins curates a selection 84. mapS On the c of stunning objets d’art Maps of key parts of the city

52. CaSTiNg Call 94. whErE TO buy The sculptural work of Rachel Whiteread Details of brands featured in this edition is examined by David G. Taylor 98. parTiNg ShOT 57. liSTENiNg TO NaTurE Showcasing a captivating installation The extraordinary artistry of Rowan Mersh by Rebecca Louise Law

12 IN CONTENTS.indd 12 21/08/2017 15:23 BOSS_InLondon_UK_RHP_BM003_BM001_0808.indd 1 IL HUGO BOSS MAN.indd 1

Non-EU residents shop can Tax Free in store. Find more information at premiertaxfree.com City White Westfield Street Victoria 78 Road Brompton 55 BOSS Stores HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 hugoboss.com 178-180 Regent Street 122 New Bond Street 35-38 Sloane Square Square Sloane 35-38 Street 122 178-180 Bond New Street Regent 15/08/2017 14:34 05.07.17 09:52 14 STATEMENT IMAGE.indd 18 14 Amphigory glasssculpture by Dr Heike Brachlow,London designedtocelebrate the80thbirthday of Glassblowing founderPeter Layton. R ScuLPTu www.londonglassblowing.com AL BEA Y T u 24/08/2017 08:52

photographEd by andy bartEr; stylEd by david hawkins © andy bartEr

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx IL TEMPLATE.indd 1 26/09/2017 15:06 16 LEAD LONDONER.indd 16 16 Gallery, from September15toOctober28. UVA /Fletcher stagesanexhibitionatCarroll inParis, andFondationCurve Cartier Gallery exhibiting atvenues suchasLondon’s Barbican artists, ledby co-founderMattClark. After Visual (UVA)Artists isacollective ofthree sculptures andinstallations, United nown foritswall-based artwork, NTDVSA UNITED VISUAL Emma Levine looksforward totheUK’s first solo exhibition of this exciting art practice solo exhibitionofthisexcitingart ARTISTS www.uva.co.uk includes pendulumsandprojected light. the linebetween real andsyntheticworlds, and installationexploring athree-part work forms of thesametree”. This exciting new bodyof science, maths, are ethicsandthearts “branches the workings of the brain, suggestingthat paraphrases aquoteby Einstein,Albert analysing

The Optical Delusion of Consciousness of Delusion Optical The

21/08/2017 15:28

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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx a great environmenta great towork in.” can benefitfrom really good, constantlight-it’s explains. aboutaboatisthatyou “What isbrilliant like acompletelynaturalprogression forme,” she my built boats, father soworking ononeseemed natural. inaboatyard“I was born inNorfolkand an artist’s studio, but forMccGwire, thechoiceis have becomeMccGwire’s signature work. on tooneofthehypnotic, sculptures that contorting Each delicatefeatherwillgoontobehand-placed studio thatMccGwire hasoccupiedfor12years. intoboxescategorised andstowed across thefloating –neatly of thousandsuponfeathers later thisyear. Housedonboard isanunusual cargo before headingbackacross theChanneltoEngland snakingitswaycurrently through France’s waterways A boatmay seemlike anunusual locationfor phone from herDutchbarge, whichis to chat,” says KateMccGwire over the hasstoppedsowey engine have amoment project anunsettlingblend ofthebeautifulandeerie. Artist KateMccGwire’sArtist feathered sculptures writhing Lois Bryson-Edmett encounters hersinistercreations encounters Lois Bryson-Edmett “I’ve beendoingthissince2006. They’re very kind.” post thembacktomefulloffeathers,” says MccGwire. the owners stampedaddressed envelopes andthey naturally twiceayear, soin andOctoberIsend April search toowners of racingpigeons. “Thebirds moult feathers. From there, begantoexpandher theartist was onthehuntforincreasing amountsofthe discovery sparked anobsession, andsoonMccGwire of weeks Ihadcollected around 300.” Thechance topickthemup,so Istarted andwithin acouple would always twirlingtotheground, befeathers made was fullofferalpigeons. As Iwalked past, there and oneofthehugeshedsinwhichboatswere theSecond manufactured there during World War at Hampton. boatsusedtobe Motortorpedo called Platt’s Eyot, locatedontheRiver Thames the boat, Imoved totheislanditwas situatedon of inspirationsomeyears ago. bought “When Ifirst chance, delivered flash hermostimportant theartist MccGwire’s unconventional choiceofstudio, by 24/08/2017 09:01 19 19 18 KATE MGWIRE.indd 20 20 – they are beautifully rhythmic.” alreadythe feathers evoke thatthrough theirstripes something todowiththeseaandturbulent water as explains. “I’m already thinkingthetitlewillbe feathered pieceinsideanoldshipcabinet,” she “I’ve decidedthatI’mgoingtocreate abrown andshapeisalready doing.each naturalpattern listeningandresponding towhat with theartist MccGwire’sof eachfeatherheavily inform work, captivatingly beautiful. The naturalcharacteristics item thatby happy accidentofnature isalso naturally pigmenteachfeather–alargelyfunctional shadesthat to highlighttheremarkable iridescent beauty, usingflowing layers that swirl andundulate perfect oncemore –it’s anincredible object.” preen itandthelittlebarbsfitbacktogether andit’s that looksabitdamaged, Ijusthave tostroke itand it isnever ceasestoamazeme. IfIpickupa feather MccGwire. “How weightless, andyet alsohow strong, ofafeatherissophenomenal,”engineering says isworth thewait.such aprecious material “The feathers, forMccGwire andherdedicatedclients, thepiece.”to collectenoughstart moulted naturally, soit’s taken mealmostfouryears been killedintheprocess; hewanted themtohave he didn’t want from tousefeathers birds whichhad condition tobeused. Theclientwas adamantthat white andofthatjust50percentare ingoodenough Only aboutthreeIreceive percentofthefeathers are but it’sfamily very rare forracingpigeonstobewhite. doveDoves feathers. andpigeonsarebird inthesame who hasrequested abigcommissionmadefromwhite but youfeathers can’t,” sheexplains. “I have aclient challenging. “People thinkyou canjustbuy the methodology canmake sourcing specific requests that moves atitsown pace.Unsurprisingly, then, this work low-impact ofalargerseasonalcycle –onepart Relying onanaturalby-product rendersMccGwire’s HARNESSING NATURE names suchas thissenseofsimplistic beauty,serve todisrupt with like aboaconstrictor.”a caseorcoiledontopofitself itistrapped within shapes itismakingandthefact work, by but alsoperturbed whatitisdoing– the to beseducedby thebeautyandperfectionof beautiful, I’ve failed,” sheexplains. “I want my audience aesthetics. “I thinkifthework is justviewed asbeing of nature ismore complicatedthansimply celebrating However, MccGwire’s relationship withthebeauty BEAUTY MEETSHORROR “I try topickwords“I try thathave abodilycontext and MccGwire’s work seekstoshowcase thismiraculous Despite thelengthy process ofharvesting the The unsettlingtitlesMccGwire usesforherwork Gag , Scuffle , Turmoil and Fissure . 21/08/2017 15:32

opening pages: sentient (2016), mixed media with goose feathers in bespoke cabinet © kate mccgwire. this page: tussle (2016), mixed media with pheasant feathers in antique cabinet © kate mccgwire. facing page: slick (2010), mixed media installation with magpie and crow feathers and antique fire basket © kate mccgwire opening pages: sentient (2016), mixed media with goose feathers in bespoke cabinet © kate mccgwire. this page: tussle (2016), mixed media with pheasant feathers in antique cabinet © kate mccgwire. facing page: slick (2010), mixed media installation with magpie and crow feathers and antique fire basket © kate mccgwire 18 KATE MGWIRE.indd 21 both protect andtrapthe creature inside, whilerivers beauty alongsideasenseofdiscomfort. Glassdomes her work, whichatonceprojects anenchanting of thebeautyandviolencenaturalworld in potential andlife.” MccGwire reflects thisdichotomy want tocreate apiecefrom it–they were sofullof taken by apredator. Ihave kept theeggshellsand theysafely andnightfell–by hadallgone, morning were soexcitedforthemtoarrive. They hatched six eggs. We waited 40days forthemtohatchand nexttotheboatafew years ago,nested right laying on theriver every day,” says MccGwire. “A swan at timesvisceralviolence. “We seebothsidesofnature and moments ofsublime beautyalongsidecruelty the naturalworld, whichcansimultaneously offer beauty narrative reflection asamore of faithful mean to ‘cut apart’.” cleave together inholymatrimony’,but itcanalso can meantobondtogether two people, asin ‘to also dualmeanings,” shesays. “To cleave, forexample, MccGwire sees this disruption ofasimplistic MccGwire seesthisdisruption to stealthilyencroach space. uponthesurrounding but alsosinister,are bothmesmerising asthey appear spillingoutoffireplacesof feathers anddrainpipes It iseasytobelieve thatthey couldhave oncebeen we associatewithlivingcommon forms creatures. but unsettlinglyotherworldly fortheirlackofthe real –recognisable material, fortheiruseofafamiliar form, MccGwire’s sculptures seemconvincingly Despitetheirsurreal in constantconflictwithitself. which possessesneitheraheadnortail–suspended endless by theinfiniteloopofeachcreature’s body, seen in MccGwire’s works project astruggle, made mind.”of Thecontorting, movements writhing being three-dimensional manifestationsofastate to asenseofanxiety–Ithinkmy piecesas powerfully visceralphysical states. “It alsorefers such as human,” explainsMccGwire, whosechoiceoftitles “My work relates tothebodyandasenseofbeing a state ofmind Retch , Smother and Stifle instantlyevoke 21/08/2017 15:32 21 Kate mccgwire Kate t ©

22 (2009), mixed media with pigeon feathers in antique cabine antique in feathers pigeon with media mixed (2009),

vice

alive, or in fact still are, ready to uncoil and slither moved and looked at me. It turned out that the across the room at any moment. shopkeeper had a live owl in the store, feeding it the This playful attitude towards the thin line between offcuts of the animals he was dissecting and stuffing.” life and death stems in part from a formative episode This sense of the uncanny persists in MccGwire’s in MccGwire’s childhood. “My mother was often work today. By blending the familiar and the strange, late picking me up from ballet, so to kill time while the artist unsettles viewers with a mesmerising beauty I waited, I would visit a nearby taxidermy shop,” she that is accentuated by a sinister undertone - a tribute explains “One day I was browsing the shelves of to the wonder and cruelty of the natural world that stuffed animals and one of the creatures suddenly MccGwire loves.

MccGwire’s Corvid will be on display at the Saatchi Gallery’s Iconoclasts: Art Out of the Mainstream from September 27 www.saatchigallery.com n www.katemccgwire.com

18 KATE MGWIRE.indd 22 24/08/2017 08:59 THE FUSION COLLECTION

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DECO PRINT COURTESY OF HUNT & HOPE cool again with vibrant prints and newcool againwithvibrantprints ways to use them. Izzy HuntandEmmieHopeare makingneedlepoint Lois Bryson-Edmett explores theirvision Lois Bryson-Edmett course,” explainsHope. “Everything was decorated India afteruniversity, toherlaw conversionprior a passionforembroiderywhenshewas travelling across in Londonandacross theworld. developed“Izzy first own stores needlepointkitswhichsoldindepartment developed over several her years spentmanufacturing business acumenandHunt’s needlepointknowledge, due toonerous costs.Now it’s timeforittoreturn.” but itfelloutoffashion to beacelebratedfabric andexposure itdeserves.glory Needlepointused covers furniture. toupholstering “It justneedsthe usedonanything from cushion needlepoint fabric co-founder ofHunt&Hope, whichcreates needlepoint intheirhome,” explainsEmmieHope, a new leaseoflife. “I want everyone tohave more patterns, ofembroidery theneglectedform giving andcontemporary traditional craftwithboldcolours women are now seekingtochangethis, updatingthe in thehome.contemporary However, two ambitious animals andflowers, to find aplace andstruggling development, depicting stuckinquaintpatterns hit somewhat ofitsaesthetic ofawall interms Egyptians, itcouldbesaidthatneedlepointhas years. stretchingWith backtotheancient ahistory enjoyed aparticularly trendy reputation inrecent Spearheading thisrevival isacombinationofHope’s stitched into cushions, needlepoint hasnot your grandmother’s wall orpastoralscenes fromost familiar floralsamplesframedon 24/08/2017 09:31 25 26 XXXXXXX

25 HUNT & HOPE.indd 26 21/08/2017 15:47 XXXXXXX 25 HUNT &HOPE.indd 27 “We together choosethecolours andthenIzzy Hope’s tobring begins visiontolifeinstitch. hascrystallised,Once anideaforapattern Hunt ExpErt craFtsmaNshIp inspired by it, namingitafterMargotherself.” it for£10. We thencreated aneedlepointpattern around the1920s, fell inlove withitandbought I discovered scarffrom geometric thisfantastic home Ihelpedtoclearoutasshewas downsizing. Scarf, was inspired by my mother’s whose friend exciting,” says Hope. “One ofourpatterns, Margot’s can comefrom anywhere, atany time, makes itso flowers to museums. andart fact thatinspiration “The can beinspired by awiderangeofsources, from the designorigination.” Initial ideasforadesign stitching aspects. The onethingwe dotogether is to themarketing andIzzyheadsupallthetechnical explains Hope. “I doeverything from thefinances themselves. “Inthestudioit’s justmeandIzzy,” by personally HuntandHope that ismasterminded of vibrant, isanextensive uniquepatterns process for herparents’ 50thwedding anniversary.” “A clientrecently commissionedapairofinitials you candisplay onyour bookshelf,” Hopeexplains. alphabet range–aletterornumber inPerspex that beyond furniture. “We rangeandan offeranumerical of it.” Hunt&Hopeneedlepointalsohasapplications client’s wallpaper. Anything goes, andthat’s thejoy each chairinadifferent colour, chosentomatchthe inourswirlto upholsterdiningchairs design, with window. We’re working currently onacommission bolster forsomeone’s sofa, andalsoapelmetfor ottomans, window seats.I’d love tocreate along anything really,” Hopesays. “We’ve upholstered chairs, applications. “Theskyisthelimit, we cancustomise of openingupneedlepointtoawholenew rangeof From this, Hunt&Hopewas born, withavision NEW LIFE create somethingfunkier, bolder, brighter’.” on, we cansurely domore thanacushion–let’s fed upwiththekits,” explainsHope. “I said, ‘come challenge. “One day IvisitedIzzyandshewas feeling establishing asuccessfulbusiness, Huntcraved anew However, withadistinctionand aftergraduating Needlework Palace. atHamptonCourt School of by herjourney, Huntdecidedtoenrol attheRoyal it.” toEnglandandfeelinginspired Upon herreturn and floodedwithcolourshefellinlove with Conceiving andrefining Hunt&Hope’s range I love forjustthatreason.” my silkcurtains faded constantly itwillfade, but even thathasacharm. toit.Ifyoua warmth keep itindirect sunlight feel ofit–becauseit’s 100percentwool, there is the thickest, there is. strongest fabric Ialsolove the says Hope. “It’s stitchedonavery robust canvas –it’s product thatwillendure. “Needlepoint lastsforever,” arecustomers rewarded withaquality, handcrafted fortheirpatience,In return HuntandHopefeeltheir for somethingthisbeautiful, itisworth thewait.” we’ve realised we shouldn’t beashamedofitandthat to fightthepaceatwhichthingsoperate, but now process,” explainsHope. “At first, IzzyandItried sure ‘slow’ isagoodword aswe can’t speedupthe high-turnover mass manufacture. “We have tomake by blocking, needlepointistheantithesisof on oneorder atatime), whichisthenfollowed to thenature ofthecraft, canwork onlyoneperson five weeks tostitchan average singleheadboard (due whole process takes aweek.” taking With oneperson then dampenedbefore beingstretched again–the is stretched andnailedacross apieceofwood. Itis isn’tthe pattern distorted,” says Hope. “The canvas “We soit’s prints offeralotofgeometric essential shapeafterstitching. toitsoriginal and returned blocked –amethodthatensures thecanvas isstraight pictures ofhappy clientswiththeirpurchases.” every day oftheirprogress andwe respond with craftspeople.and fantastic They sendusphotographs explains Hope. “They are awonderful teamofwomen ofneedlepointandembroidery,”have history arich be stitched. “It was previously aFrench colony andthey commissions it, thesamplesare senttoMadagascar Hunt andHopehave andaclient onapattern agreed most time-consumingaspectoftheprocess.” the Once has driven memadtoday!’ Byfar, thedesignstageis she must gohometoherhusbandandsay, ‘Emmie all withhumourandlove but Ithinknow andthen againcountlesstimes.to unpickandstart We doit responds. Shehastobevery resilient andprepared stitches asmallsample. Iofferfeedbackandshe both old-fashioned and modern inthehome. andmodern both old-fashioned I love mixingoldwithnew, andthere isroom for needlepoint isanoldcraft, itcanfitwith anything. beautiful things match,” sheexplains. “Even though the homesofhercustomers. “I believe thatall aesthetics,contemporary Hopefeelsshecandiversify thistraditionalcraftsmanshipwith By pairing OLD aND NEW From there, every pieceofneedlepointneedstobe 21/08/2017 15:47 27 nt & hope & nt hu ric by Ab r upholstered in interlock f interlock in upholstered r Ai : ch AGe 28 ric by hunt & hope. this p this hope. & hunt by ric Ab r f Ge r, ti

Our tagline sums it up – ‘modern design, traditionally Each design also needs to be adaptable enough to

stitched’ – old and new together.” Similarly, Hunt look great in any of the multiple colour combinations ti Ge in cushions and Hope themselves offer a blend of two different that a customer could opt for during the made-to- pAGe: aspects of design. “I naturally lean towards a more order process. And the duo are happy to provide colourful, bold style,” says Hope. “While Izzy prefers wool samples and advice for those who are unsure

a more shaded, muted approach. The combination of about what combination would look best. previous the two ensures that we have the breadth and depth “There are more than 420 different shades of required to satisfy all tastes.” The result is a broad wool to choose from,” explains Hope. “So customers range of fabrics, from tiger prints and camouflage can match the needlepoint with the colour palette to classic stripes and a design inspired by the tiles of their own home, often to within a shade or less.” of the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Designs such as Being able to offer a handcrafted, bespoke service Starry Night capture the beauty of the night sky, in an age of mass manufacture is something Hunt while Patterned Ground plays with zig-zagged lines and Hope have come to recognise as the unique of colour. Each pattern that makes the final cut is strength of their business – one that is a direct result subjected to rigorous scrutiny by both Hunt and of working with a traditional craft that cannot be Hope, who maintain uncompromising standards. rushed. “It’s a wonderful, beautiful process but it does “We’re in our mid-forties, so we figure that we don’t take a bit of time,” explains Hope. “However, each want to do anything we don’t love,” says Hope. “We piece we create will last for generations – it’s an have got to be proud of every single design we launch.” heirloom in the making.”

www.huntandhope.com

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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx PERFECT PICTURE the conceptof 19th century. Translating literallyas careers”,“artistic 200 years, withitsheyday takingplaceinthe to dominatethehorological sceneforthenext in anew eraofwatch design–anerathatwas thesizeofabreadth ofahair,brushes they ushered objectswereother luxury bannedatthetime. todecoratingwatcheshaving because turned responsible forthefirst-ever decorative dials, Huguenots who, backinthe 17thcentury, were de Joux andLaChaux-de-Fonds. Itwas thesesame up watchmaking hubsinthenow-famous Vallée hot-footingitovertribes theborder andsetting inFrance,practise theirreligion saw thepersecuted due toHuguenotsnolongerbeingallowed tosafely It was therevocationNantes that, ofthe Edict of and floralcomposition. next generationcraftsasdiverse aslampshademaking Paris, whichexiststosafeguard andpassontothe style, in thered’Art istheInstitutNational Métiers network partners, ofartisan whileintypicalFrench that serves asawalking,its of breathing celebration now d’Art hasanannual Métiers catwalk show exclusive towatchmaking. Chanel, forexample, place amongmore traditionalcrafts, asLauraMcCreddie-Doak discovers Hunched over theseminiature canvasses, using Decorative withnew dialsare techniquestakingtheir backinfashion history ofdecorative,history or havevagaries toplay apart inthecolourful ike somany thingsinwatchmaking, religious métiers d’art métiers isnotonethat métiers d’art métiers , dials. no more than40mmissomethingvery few possess. render theseworks oncanvasses ofart measuring to erasethewholedesign–skillrequired to with onewrong blast ofheathaving thepower last. Itisabalancingactbetween fire andpaint, application withthesoftestshadesbeingapplied with essentialoil. Eachshadeisfired after every groundusing finelyenamelthathasbeenmixed both sides. The colouristhenbuilt upgradually thathasbeenenamelledon design onasurface tooutlinethe 1630 andrequires theminiaturist enamel, whichisthoughttodatefrom 1620to there’s –miniature paintingon art theoriginal filled withenamelonecolouratatime. Then thedesign,plate toform withthehollows being requires theengraver toincisethemetalof different temperatures, and with layer uponlayer ofenamelthatisfired at in finegoldwire, withthe cellsinbetween filled with a touch of Coco Chanelabouther,with atouchof she is Anita Porchet. A diminutive French woman working enamellers One ofthegreatest today A nEwdAwn into gem-setting andenamelling–whichissub-divided include hand-engraving, miniature painting, In watchmaking, thetraditional cloisonné , ismarked where out thepattern champlevé métiers d’art métiers , which

21/08/2017 15:52 31 31 30 WATCHES FEATURE.indd 32 32 a certain angle.a certain This was so they canonlyberead whenthelighthitsthemat procedure thatsprays onthesapphire thegoldletters process calledvacuum metallisation–atechnological as well ashidden poemsengraved onthedialusinga found intheBarbier-MuellerMuseumGeneva, China, Mexicoand Africa, thatwere replicas ofthose and hand-rendered masks, representing Oceania, The fourlimited-editiondesignsfeatured laser-cut modern tradition the 250thanniversary oftheMaison, where we designs andtheuseofnew materials. Following was creativehorlogerie particularly withdisruptive collection was developed atatimewhenhaute Vacheron’s director. artistic “That said, theMasks its very earlyyears,” Selmoni, explainsChristian International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève delaHauteHorlogerie (SIHH). International its Maskscollectionlaunchedatthatyear’s Salon decorative thecurrent kick-started resurgence, with continued until2007when Vacheron Constantin tutor outofretirement toteachher. Thissituation wasn’t optionsoshehadtocoaxaformer acourse went tostudyin Geneva inthe1980s, enamelling to create thesedialswere nearlyextinct. WhenPorchet romanticism andmostoftheskillsneeded historical functionratherthan ademandforfuturistic driving or customers’ watch wishlists. watches Quartz were decorative dialswere notatthetopofeitherbrands’ asteadywaveridden ofpopularity, by the1970s her nextdialwas comingfrom. Despitehaving was atimewheneven shewas where wondering took herthree monthstocomplete. inParis,ceiling oftheOpéraGarnier aproject that for whomsherecreated inminiature Marc Chagall’s brand’s 175thanniversary –to Vacheron Constantin, Dawn ontheLake watch tocommemoratethe Piaget andPatek Philippe–shepaintedthelatter’s by someofthebiggestnamesinindustry, from in Switzerland, but herskillsare commandeered workshopbrush-cluttered inCorcelles-le-Jorat has remained independent, working outofher for anew era. However, asindemandPorchet isnow, there “ Métiers d’art Métiers has been part oftheMaisonsince hasbeenpart métiers d’art métiers but reinterpreted opportunity asanew challenge.”opportunity I was able toconvince itandhesaw himtotry this at methinkingIwas makingajoke. After awhile, I suggestedthisideatothecraftsman. Helooked a paperweight design. When Ivisitedthemanufacturer, in2014,Millefiori dialscamefrom where thecrystal make aglassdial. “Thiswas thecaseof Arceau deSaint-Louisto atLesCristalleries the aristans Delhotal, whenasked how hemanagedtoconvince work onamuch smallerscaleforadial,” says on abiggerscaleare hesitanttomake theircraft dial forits Arceau. “Usuallythecraftsmenworking in goldthread forastained-glasseffect–or to watchmaking’s more decorative delights. From into afive-storey farmhouse paean an 18th-century backinitsnamebyrecently puttheart converting to bring beautifulobjectstoourclients,to bring andtothe and styledirector. “It isourpreoccupation notonly recreate it,” Rainero, explainsPierre Cartier’s image in ourcreations nolongerexists, sowe hadto decades yet. “Most ofthecraftsmanship now involved techniquesare aroundmore esoteric forafew more one roof, these ofensuring withtheexpress purpose hammered flat–ithasallbeengathered underthis using platinum orgoldwires thatare twistedthen – whichdatesbackto3000BCandcreates patterns champlevé Les Cristalleries deSaint-Louis,Les Cristalleries tocreate a even managedtoconvince France’s oldestglassmaker, delicate brushstrokes tostraw marquetry. Delhotal Delhotal, there’s beeneverything from Anita Porchet’s Hermès. Underthecreative direction ofPhilippe One namethatreally embracedthischallengewas craft Preserving the to fillinany way they wanted. previous century. These dialswere blank canvasses by thetraditionalcraftsthathadheldsway inthe watchmaking menu but brandsweren’t confined 2007.” Suddenly, decorative were arts backonthe so we unveiled SIHH theMaskscollectionduring to demonstrateourcreative approach inanotherfield, presented very complicatedtimepieces, we wanted of So popularis plique-à-jour and cloisonné –where thedesignistracedout métiers d’art métiers tothemore unusual crafts now has thatCartier millefiori filigree filigree

24/08/2017 09:03

opening pages: MetiÉrs d’art Chagall l’opÉra de paris Courtesy of vaCheron Constantin. faCing page: MadeMoiselle privÉ CoroMandel Courtesy of Chanel OPENING PAGES: METIÉRS D’ART CHAGALL L’OPÉRA DE PARIS COURTESY OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN. FACING PAGE: MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ COROMANDEL COURTESY OF CHANEL 30 WATCHES FEATURE.indd 33 21/08/2017 15:53 A ty courtesy of Ar of courtesy Al

34 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx urbillon with butterfly wing di wing butterfly with urbillon to ArtyA ArtyA

public, but also to keep this craftsmanship alive screens in thread, or Dior, which has used for as long as possible, so our objective is to keep lace, feathers and even micro-sliced mother craftsmanship alive beyond the next 20 years.” of pearl to bring to vivid life the world of its While safeguarding traditional methods is eponymous founder. vital, the other thing that is breathing new life into And now you have iconoclastic new brands métiers d’art dials is a stretching of the boundaries such as ArtyA, which uses gold marquetry and of what can be done on a 40mm circular canvas feathers, and Romain Jerome, which lovingly – a pioneering spirit that is coming from houses recreates pop culture icons such as Super Mario that are historically not watchmakers. There’s Chanel, in enamel, which are blending métiers d’art tradition which has been mining its couture contacts, namely and the 21st century in bold and exciting ways. the legendary embroiderer Lesage, to render scenes In design terms, at least, that’s a long way from a from Mademoiselle’s famous folding Coromandel hunched Huguenot sitting at a candlelit workbench.

www.artya.com n www.cartier.com n www.chanel.com n www.dior.com n www.hermes.com www.patek.com n www.romainjerome.ch n www.vacheron-constantin.com

30 WATCHES FEATURE.indd 34 21/08/2017 15:53 GREAT EXCHANGE RATES, FRESH DAILY

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36 FASHION SHOOT.indd 45 21/08/2017 16:05 Blue coat by Private White V.C.; blue checked hooded shirt by Balenciaga at Selfridges; blue roll-neck sweater by Calvin Klein at Selfridges; indigo patchwork jeans by Alexander McQueen at Browns Fashion

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36 FASHION SHOOT.indd 51 21/08/2017 16:13 OBJECTS OF DESIRE

Photographer: Andy Barter  Stylist: David Hawkins

Rose gold perpetual calendar pocket watch, circa 1874, by Patek Philippe, available at Somlo London

46 STILL LIFE SHOOT.indd 28 21/08/2017 16:17 OBJECTS OF DESIRE

Victorian royal topaz and diamond necklace set in silver on gold, available at Susannah Lovis

46 STILL LIFE SHOOT.indd 29 21/08/2017 16:17 Solar ceramic vase with hand-carved sgraffito decoration by Gregory Tingay

46 STILL LIFE SHOOT.indd 30 21/08/2017 16:19 Dead Man’s Patterns – Memento Mori Skull, collage sculpture made from brown paper bespoke Savile Row patterns, by Hormazd Narielwalla

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46 STILL LIFE SHOOT.indd 33 21/08/2017 16:22 C A S T I N G C A L L

As a major exhibition of Rachel Whiteread’s sculpture opens at Tate Britain, David G. Taylor celebrates a polymath who believes art can “change the way you think and are”

nglish artist Rachel Whiteread once declared: just weeks after its completion. Her 1993 Turner “I don’t want to make ‘plop’ art – sculpture Prize-winning entry, House, was a huge concrete of that just gets plopped down in places.” She’s casting of a three-storey Victorian former family UcE y Br the subject of a retrospective exhibition, which runs home – 193 Grove Road in Bow, on the edge of AD

at Tate Britain from September 12 until January 21, east London’s Mile End Park. When the building’s MIkE ND WHItErE

where visitors can celebrate 25 years of her reactive crumbling exterior was peeled away, it left behind A EL

work and find out why the first woman to win the a beautiful, otherworldly, soft grey casting of a kind AD (2010) coUrtEs (2010)

UK’s annual Turner Prize remains one of Britain’s of phantom house complete with the spectres of its tErE

most important contemporary artists. former windows, architraves, fireplaces and staircases. LI gHt UcE © rAcH EL WHI EL gE:

Linsey Young, curator of Contemporary British To admirers, the ambitious piece spoke eloquently Br Art at Tate Britain, puts Whiteread’s contributions in of memories, humanity and impermanence. Radical PA MIkE ND

context: “Rachel is one of the leading sculptors of her for its time, the artwork prompted much debate y of rAcH A generation, who has pursued the development of along the ‘is it or isn’t it art?’ kind. The late art . fAcINg AD AD her work with an unrelenting vision since leaving art writer Brian Sewell of London’s Evening Standard school. She has pioneered new ways of working with newspaper joined a chorus of critical disapproval tErE WHItErE EL WHI EL materials such as resin and has worked on a huge range when he dismissed it, rather harshly, as “another EL of scales, from the modest to the monumental.” example of meritless gigantism”. (2007-8) coUrtEs rAcH

Strangely, among all of her multifarious monuments “The piece was confrontational. It was in the © rAcH LINE UP LINE and sculptures, Whiteread is probably best known for street, it wasn’t polite, and it wasn’t a memorial,” her most transient work, demolished by the council Whiteread later commented. “People reacted so

52 RACHEL WHITEREAD.indd 52 21/08/2017 16:25 strongly to it. There was even a debate in parliament about it. I knew it was going to be controversial, but I hadn’t anticipated how controversial it would be.” Through multiple photos, video and documents, visitors to the exhibition at Tate Britain can find out more about the legendary House project – one that, ironically, turned Whiteread into a true household name. Though unique and unadorned, it’s hard to see why the piece proved quite so shocking at the time. Unabated by the polarising furore, Whiteread held her nerve and went on to forge an illustrious career, primarily based around her signature castings of architectural and domestic objects and places. Whiteread found that by preserving the negative spaces in things left behind, she was able to, as she puts it, “invert people’s perception of the world and reveal the unexpected.”

Ghosts of the past Born in London in 1963, Whiteread’s obsession with casting can be traced back to her art degree at Brighton Polytechnic. Despite enrolling on a painting course, Whiteread spent most of her time in the sculpture studio making ‘sandcasts’ of everyday items such as spoons, captivated by how much their ‘spoon-ness’ was altered by the process. “I made paintings at first, but got frustrated with the edge of the canvas,” she told The Independent newspaper. “For my degree show I cast bits of old drainpipe and squashed cans.” 61 An MA degree in sculpture at the famous Slade School of Fine Art in London soon followed and it is there that Whiteread honed her signature style with pieces such as Shallow Breath (1988) – a cast of the space underneath a bed. Resembling a human rib cage, it’s one of the pieces, she told the BBC, that provided an “exorcism of emotion” following her father’s death. Her career breakthrough, however, was with her 1990 sculpture Ghost, cast from the parlour room of a house on Archway Road in north London – a bit like the one she grew up in – which was bought by Charles Saatchi and exhibited along of UcE with other works by Whiteread in his first Young sy Br EAD E British Artists (YBAs) show in 1992. IkE rt tEr

M Alongside Damien Hirst, Jake and Dinos Chapman, HI

W Fiona Banner and Tracey Emin, Whiteread emerged on

HEL to the arts scene in the late 1980s and early 1990s as EAD EAD AND c (2010) coU (2010)

II rA tEr one of the hardest-working members of east London’s

LI gHt pioneering Young British Artists movement. She still UcE © gE: HEL WHI HEL resides in the area with her husband and fellow sculptor Br

IkE Marcus Taylor and their two sons. Interestingly, the M IN g PA

Ac Tate is billing the new exhibition as “the most sy of rAc of sy . f E substantial survey to date”, so why have we had rt EAD EAD AND EAD to wait quite so long for a retrospective show this tEr tEr

HI comprehensive? One of the more self-effacing W artists of her circle, Whiteread already hinted at the HEL WHI HEL HEL (2007-8) coU c answer to this herself when she told The Guardian rAc rA

52 RACHEL WHITEREAD.indd 53 21/08/2017 16:25 To date, Whiteread’s most famous pieces have included Untitled Monument (2001), an inverted resin casting of Trafalgar Square’s fourth plinth; Embankment (2005), when she filled Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall with 14,000 white polyethylene casts of old boxes; and 2000’s concrete and steel Holocaust Memorial at Judenplatz in Vienna. Cast from shelves lined with untitled and unattributed books, it was designed to symbolise the untold stories of the lives of countless Austrian Jews who were exterminated by the Nazis during the Second World War. The stark piece, which cleverly manages to be both monumental and heart-stirring, is poignantly known as the ‘Nameless Library’.

Domestic bliss The works on show in Tate Britain’s vast 1,500m² gallery space this autumn range from casts of hot-

water bottles, windows, doors and the undersides of ERE aD T chairs, to the large-scale Untitled (Room 101) (2003) Whi

– a casting of the BBC Broadcasting House room said El

to have inspired the Room 101 depicted in George Rach Orwell’s dystopian novel Nineteen Eighty-Four.

However, do watch out for three of curator Linsey OmE ©

Young’s personal favourites, which include Untitled ll, R

(White Slab) (1994) – a work made of rubber that nEi

is cast from a mortuary table which the artist found an O’ c

62 in a scrapyard. “The artist has spoken about the very OR l physical process of taking these human-sized works a out of moulds, of the fact that you almost need to ERi

wrestle them out,” says Young. “For me, that says Gall Of y

a lot about her character and resolve.” s Line Up (2007-08), a vibrant collection of brightly URTE coloured toilet roll tube inners, is another of Young’s choices for the exhibition. “I’m very interested in the way that Whiteread handles the domestic (2016) cO environment,” she says. “She has cast baths, stairs, rooms, a whole house, but she is always happy to DUE PORTE DUE return to smaller subjects to explore detail and often colour.” A sculpture receiving its exhibition debut at the show is the third of Young’s handpicked selection of Whiteread works. Wall (Apex) (2017) is a brand- new papier-mâché work. “Without giving too much away,” Young says, “humble materials have been transformed into large-scale sculptural works made from shredded material from the artist’s studio, old floor plans, magazines and letters.” What would visitors be surprised to learn about the artist, I ask Young as a parting shot? “Rachel is a great asker of questions and a fantastic listener,” she says. “It’s hard to get through even a short meeting with her without divulging something personal about yourself. I think you can get a sense of this, and her interest in the traces people leave in the world, in her work.”

Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. 020 7887 8888. www.tate.org.uk

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IL BICESTER VILLAGE.indd 1 15/08/2017 15:14 Who will be the next Bremont, Charlotte Olympia, Orlebar Brown?

Walpole’s Brands of Tomorrow programme develops emerging talent, helping to create the British luxury brands of the future.

An alliance of 200 of the UK’s ﬁ nest luxury brands

thewalpole.co.uk Illustrator: Rory Dobner, Walpole Brands of Tomorrow 2017 – rorydobner.com

IL WALPOLE 25.indd 1 21/08/2017 16:29 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 57 ROWEN MERSH.indd 57

Placuna Phoenix (2014) courtesy of rowan Mersh

Lois Bryson-Edmett explores hismeticulousprocessLois Bryson-Edmett Sculptor Rowan handcraftsmajesticworks Mersh of art inspired byof art theorganicbeautyofseashells. T with a master’s inMixeddegree MediaConstructed from theRoyalgraduated Collegeof in2005 Art onthedelicatesculptures hecreates.reflecting Having have thepleasure ofworking with,” says theartist, I I guessitwould beacelebrationofthematerials evident when seenupclose. “If there was atheme, of Rowanof Mersh’s work onlybecomes hypnotic, -theintricacy patterns concentric by handinto housands ofseashellsarranged 21/08/2017 16:33 57 57 ROWEN MERSH.indd 58 21/08/2017 16:34

XXXXXXX XXXXXXX 57 ROWEN MERSH.indd 59 something that’s notabsolutelyperfect,” heexplains. pieces becauseit’s easiertohave aconnection with subconsciously peoplehave anaffinitywiththe believes hisaudiencecan relate to. “I thinkthat in multiples.” It’s thisorganicqualitythatMersh thatbecomesapparent whenyoumaterial useit There’s abeautyintheuniquenessofnatural you losewhenyou work withaman-madematerial. being slightlyimperfect–akindofhumanquality “The work ofqualityfrom gains asort eachshell toit,”“Every shellhasasubtlevariation hesays. made more beautifulby theiruniquecharacter. themselves,materials believes whichMersh are the characterofeachpieceisalsoreflected inthe very expressionist,” explains. Mersh I findproduce tiny,very –it’s patterns intricate produce more elaboratemarks, andwhenI’mnot, its creator.of “If I’mhaving agoodday, Itendto essay,a deeplypersonal shapedby theexperience hands-on approach tohiswork renderseachpiece place intheworld, but alsothemostdifficult.” This when creating thework canbethemostenjoyable ofhisprocess.Mersh “The headspaceyou’re in chunksofmy“The piecesare gigantic life,” says ofpatientapplicationby hours theartist.requiring shells –took22weeks tocreate,sliced turritella Mersh’s comes tolifeundertheartist’s hand. of The first mimics thatofnaturalgrowth, aseachpieceslowly The creation process ofeachMersh’s artworks A HUMANQUALITY a new context. petals, but alsoreinterpretedin atoncefamiliar folds ofaflower’sscales ofafishtotheconcentric instinctively foundinnature, recall patterns from the meanshispieces to thearchitecture ofnaturalforms walls ortwistingupfrom theground. A sensitivity almost tohave grown organically, sprouting from tocreateshell enables Mersh sculptures thatappear doing something, andworking withthat.” because they are alreadylistening tothematerials ofthe shells.qualities andcharacteristics It’s about of hispreferredmaterials. tousetheinherent “I try waves oftusk-shapeddentaliumshells, tonametwo paper-thin windowpane oyster shells andundulating intosculpture,texture andpattern usinglayers of has sincetranslatedhispassionfor Textiles, Mersh helps tocreate acaptivating visualharmony, sensitive andintuitive oftheshells arrangement in hismaterials, Mersh’sDespite theirregularities ELEVATINGEVERYDAY THE The role touchinshaping ofthispersonal Responding tothenaturalarchitecture ofeach Dreamcatcher series –alace-like web series of 21/08/2017 16:35 59 h RS E M OwAn R tESy Of UR (2017) (2017) cO

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AcUnA PR showcasing the often-overlooked beauty of a natural messages that I wrote for a loved one who went away. Pl by-product. The laborious hours spent crafting each We were apart for two and a half months, and every piece imbue Mersh’s work with a mesmerising level day I would engrave one of the shells with a small of detail; on the one hand, extraordinary for its message for her.” In this way, a common experience intricacy and complexity, and on the other, relatable of separation becomes enshrined as a precious work PAGE: PREVIOUS by its use of such a familiar, commonplace material. of art and a permanent tribute to a transient Elevating the everyday to the position of something emotional state. precious runs as a theme throughout the artist’s work. For Mersh, the potential to continue this By harnessing natural, ordinary materials to create celebration of natural materials and forms into something complex, beautiful and extraordinary, other areas is limitless and something he is already Mersh encourages new perspectives on objects we exploring in his work. “I’m looking at minerals interact with regularly. at the moment,” he explains. “Some types of stone One of the most touching interpretations of this are essentially fossilised shell, so there’s a logical theme lies hidden within the soft, shimmering waves transition into rock and stone from this point too.” of thin oyster shell discs that form Mersh’s fragile Like his work, Mersh’s artistic direction is set to circular wall piece Placuna Pro Dilectione Mea (2016). develop naturally. “Up until now I’ve gone where “That piece was a diary,” he explains, recalling its the wind has taken me,” he says. “Who knows which creation. “Many of the shells have been etched with way it will blow next?”

Unit G1B, 8 Mackintosh Lane, E9 6AB. 07949 158 987. www.rowanmersh.com

57 ROWEN MERSH.indd 60 21/08/2017 16:36 IL LES MIS.indd 102 15/08/2017 15:18 62 CULTURE.indd 62 62 to view thisalfresco exhibition, known as might thinkyou’ve missedthebesttime(andweather) Unveiled inJuly untilOctober8, andrunning you who lived through theNaziinvasion ofPoland. Venet andaheadlessfigure by Magdalena Abakanowicz includes amajorinstallationby Bernar French artist than 20new andsignificant works, this year’s selection flower-lined Regent’s lawns of Park. more Featuring fromartists around upacross theworld the spring Sculpture. including Blum&Poe (LA), Hyundai(Seoul) Gallery from acrossattract themostexcitinggalleries theglobe, the display hastoofferandmuch more. (October5-8)thatyoureturns canenjoy allthat London Frieze fair art world-famous contemporary As more than160oftheworld’s prepare galleries leadingcontemporary Now inits15th year, Londoncontinues to Frieze to descendonRegent’s Park, SamRogg findsthere’s somethingfor by leading 20th-century and contemporary andcontemporary by leading20th-century happens incentralLondon: sculptures enormous very autumnsince2003, aremarkable thing Frieze London,Frieze Regent’s Park, NW14NR(entranceoffPark Square West). www.frieze.com e Z The BIGFRIe Butasitsnamesuggests, itisn’t untilthe everyone atthisyear’s fair Londonart Frieze Frieze Frieze and budget, andledbyspecialist. anindependentart Bespokeenjoy tour tailored aFrieze totheirinterests piecewill and thoselookingtopickupaprized legacy ofradicalfeministartists. collectors art Serious a thought-provoking paying gallery homageto the year, year, based works are alsogiven aplatform. New this are not overlooked,artists while film and performance- alongside themainevent. Young andemerging galleries andearlierworks) (20th-century thatruns fair Masters of thepast17years, withanequallydazzlingFrieze Siddall,Victoria Fairs. director ofFrieze galleries,”to beavitalhubforinternational says signifying thatFrieze Week inthis citycontinues Londonisstronger thanever, forFrieze exhibitors inRegent’s structure temporary Park. “The listof whoactivelyartists inabespoke engagewithvisitors and London’s Hauser& Wirth, withafocusonliving This is the fair atwhichtoseethebiggestnames This isthefair Sex Work: Feminist Art & Radical Politics Politics Radical & Art Feminist Work: Sex is 22/08/2017 08:34

17 Acute unequAl Angles (2016) by bernAr Venet, blAin|southern © stephen White

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx IL PHANTOM OF THE OPERA.indd 105 15/08/2017 15:23 THE C u LT u R E oBa,

D IARY l’ c, ku APOLOGIA SCYTHIANS: WARRIORS CÉZANNE PORTRAITS THE EY EXHIBITION: To November 18 OF ANCIENT SIBERIA From October 26 IMPRESSIONISTS

The Tony and Emmy Award- From September 14 Despite his status as one of IN LONDON penhagen,

winner Stockard Channing – best The challenging frozen terrain the most influential artists of From November 2 co known for her role as Rizzo in of ancient Siberia gave rise his generation, Paul Cézanne’s During the devastation of the the 1978 film Grease – will this to a powerful nomadic tribe portraits have remained an Franco-Prussian war of the yptotek, yptotek,

month tread the boards in a whose horseback skills and use overlooked aspect of his artistic 1870s, artists were driven gl revival of Apologia at Trafalgar of deadly weapons were greatly career. Now, a new exhibition across the English Channel rg SBe itain Studios. Apologia is Alexi Kaye feared – the Scythians. Their at the National Portrait Gallery where their new life among rl Campbell’s third play and follows way of life is being explored is shedding new light on his the British art community Br Kristin, a liberal art historian at The British Museum this accomplished portraits, bringing sparked an exciting wave ny ca of om the Second half of the fourth century B century fourth the of half Second the om who has recently published her autumn through archaeological together 50 paintings from of creative output. Featuring Sy

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question her achievements and to resemble the tattooed faces method across his career, the explores the Franco-British ul of a pri Sy whether they were worth the of the deceased are among the exhibition provides a rare relations that spawned some hi S in ear sacrifices she made. intriguing exhibits. opportunity for portraiture fans. exceptional work, inspired Sp by the energy of the capital. (1885-86) By pa

Trafalgar Studios, The British Museum, National Portrait Gallery, t courte rro

ha 14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. Great Russell Street, St. Martin’s Place, Tate Britain, Millbank, SSa 0844 871 7632. www.trafalgar WC1B 3DG. 020 7323 8000. WC2H 0HE. 020 7306 0055. SW1P 4RG. 020 7887 8888. 64 entertainment.com www.britishmuseum.org www.npg.org.uk www.tate.org.uk camille pi camille

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62 CULTURE.indd 64 22/08/2017 08:34 IL ALADDIN.indd 1 15/08/2017 15:25 N G T I A E

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66 DINING FEATURE.indd 66 22/08/2017 08:38 Beatrice Squires considers how the capital’s restaurants are embracing the theatre of dining by creating dishes that are works of art

he acclaimed cookery writer Diana Henry Undoubtedly, there has been a big trend for once said: “The expression ‘you eat with your ‘humble’ ingredients in the past few years with eyes’ is a cliché, yet clichés exist for a reason.” many hot new London restaurants championing Regardless of how delicious food tastes, if it lacks the vegetable above all else. Aside from price point finesse, it simply isn’t as appealing as a beautifully and our heightened environmental consciousness, presented dish. This is more than just a theory. with a variety of shapes, colours, textures and tastes An experiment published in 2014 in the journal to play with they certainly make for a versatile Flavour (reviewed by scientists, not chefs) gave 60 medium. One new restaurant to capitalise on people exactly the same ingredients in three dishes: a this is Perilla in Stoke Newington. ‘neat’ arrangement, a traditional tossed salad and one Head chef and co-founder Ben Marks has drawn that had been constructed to look like the Kandinsky on his experience working at Claridge’s and Noma painting, Painting number 2001. Both before and to create a seasonal menu that gives classic European after consumption, the Kandinsky-inspired dish came ingredients a modern twist. Fried duck egg and out top for complexity, artistic presentation and chopped mussels with parsley is delicate and almost overall enjoyment, and the testers said they would be whimsical to behold, with the mussels taking on a prepared to pay twice as much for it in a restaurant completely different and – unusually for shelled than for the other versions. It’s hardly surprising, mussels – attractive appearance. BBQ mullet with then, that London’s best chefs have long been aware grilled radicchios and basil is a simply presented plate of the power of presentation – the plate becoming a of whole barbecued fish scattered with fresh basil blank canvas for swooshes of jus, intricate structures and radicchios, yet it’s somehow dramatic. Even and nature’s colour wheel of ingredients, rendering the butterhead lettuce and herb salad looks as if it their creations almost too good to actually eat. has been arranged with the skill of a florist putting together a beautiful bouquet. 67 Art on A plAte Colour is in fact one of the defining features of Food theAtre Peruvian food, with brightly hued vegetables, sauces It’s interesting to consider that in many restaurants and edible flowers often assembled to reflect the art now, the artistry goes beyond the plate – the ‘theatre of the culture. Nowhere is this more apparent than of eating’, so to speak, being a factor. Magpie, a at chef and restaurateur Martin Morales’ restaurants, stone’s throw from Regent Street, is the latest project including Senõr Ceviche and Casita Andina in from James Ramsden and Sam Herlihy, co-founders Soho. Inspired by his roots and Peruvian ‘picanterias’ of the Michelin-starred Pidgin in Hackney. Like – traditional family-run restaurants frequented by Pidgin, Magpie celebrates modern British produce, the local community and travellers – the interior is but this time Ramsden and Herlihy wanted to switch a tasteful yet fun mishmash of bright colours, woven things up, creating a system whereby diners select their textiles, traditional knick-knacks and specially small plates from a traditional dim sum-style trolley. commissioned artworks. “It seemed like a fun and novel approach to our Just as pleasing to the eye – if not more so – is the current eating-out habits,” says Ramsden. Renowned food, lovingly created by Morales and executive chef chef Adolfo de Cecco is at the kitchen’s helm, Vitelio Reyes, who was previously at Michelin-starred producing small plates such as mackerel crudo with Peruvian gem, Lima London. Each plate – whether blueberry kosho and fennel pollen, with swirls of traditional ceviche, lamb sweetbreads with coriander, dark purple jus, pops of green and that beautiful dark beer sauce, carapulcra potatoes and peanuts, or shimmering mackerel skin combining to resemble watermelon and black quinoa salad – is a dynamic an edible abstract painting. mixture of components that almost ‘jump out’ at you. Evidently many restaurateurs are now pushing Yet there’s much more to these dishes than pretty the boundaries of what it means to eat out, creating presentation, says Morales, with their appearance a novel experience that blurs the lines between inspired by the heritage, tradition, creativity, textiles reality and fantasy. Ever since Tom Sellers opened and beauty of Cusco in the Andes of Peru. “The Restaurant Story on Tooley Street, close to Tower design of our dishes at times replicates a textile weave Bridge, in 2013 he has won rave reviews for his or embroidery, whereas the colour often reflects the imaginative menu, earning a Michelin star within muted earthy tones of quinoa and maca, or the bright just five months of opening. With a modern approach textile tones of rocoto chilli,” he explains. to British classics, Sellers’ menu features the likes of

66 DINING FEATURE.indd 67 22/08/2017 08:38 68 crispy cod skin with cod balls and bread and dripping clocked on to the power of the picture-sharing – ‘normal’ enough until you realise that the candle platform is Leonid Shutov, his achingly stylish Bob on your table is to be eaten (yes, really) because it Bob Ricard in Soho recently having undergone is actually the beef dripping to go with your bread. a redesign. The brief? To make the restaurant more This technical yet fantastical approach to cooking ‘Instagrammable’. And that it is, with its unmistakable is nothing new to Heston Blumenthal, whose Art Deco logo, patterned Japanese wallpaper and, of creations are like something from Alice’s Adventures course, those famous ‘Press for Champagne’ buttons at in Wonderland. Two Michelin-starred Dinner by every table. As for the menu, that too has been given Heston Blumenthal, at the Mandarin Oriental hotel much thought. The beetroot and goat’s cheese gateaux in Knightsbridge, is no exception. The menu – “a looks as eccentric as it sounds, a fanciful arrangement celebration of historic British gastronomy” – features of pink beetroot discs and sprigs of lamb’s lettuce on recipes that have been inspired by ones dating as far a perfect little round cake fit for Marie Antoinette. back as the 14th century, which are mind-blowing Another Instagrammers’ obsession, Sketch in Mayfair

in their originality (because eating was one of the has been so breathtakingly designed it is a work of art photography brown simon © sketch at dish a page: this magpie. of courtesy magpie at dish page: opening few entertaining pastimes then). Together with chef in itself. Everything from the ‘millennial pink’ David director Ashley Palmer-Watts, Blumenthal has come Shrigley room (featuring the visual artist’s work), to up with a meticulously planned menu including the futuristic egg-shaped lavatories, is fairytale-like. Meatfruit (c.1500), a chicken liver mousse created to The food is a fundamental cog in the wheel of the look like a mandarin orange, and Tipsy Cake (c.1810), overall aesthetic – afternoon tea, for example, is a sponge soaked in sherry and brandy. Incidentally, towering selection of hand-cut sandwiches (think these are two of the world’s most Instagrammed dishes. Norfolk goose egg and mayonnaise), immaculate scones, cakes and, of course, those painstakingly created Eat with your EyEs petits gâteaux including blueberry and vanilla choux. From one form of entertainment to quite another, Whether a result of rising expectations or social social media has become one of the most powerfully media, we are obsessed with the way things look. And influential mediums, with apps such as Instagram thanks to the fiercely competitive skill and creativity having the potential to drum up an unprecedented of some of our best chefs, food is no exception. amount of business. One restaurateur who quickly It seems our eyes are bigger than our stomachs.

www.andinalondon.com n www.bobbobricard.com n www.dinnerbyheston.co.uk www.magpie-london.com n www.perilladining.co.uk n www.restaurantstory.co.uk n www.sketch.london

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70 he keeper’s house cour house keeper’s he T : ; cod, clams and ocean herbs cour herbs ocean and clams cod, ;

chop aNd chaN g e eaT o righ T o T

Showcasing emerging artists alongside innovative chefs, Carousel is more FT than just a restaurant. Lois Bryson-Edmett samples the experience rom le rom F ney mary © mw mw © mary ney T chu he rising popularity in recent years of dining pop-ups chefs gives diners the chance to sample everything from and supper clubs has offered an exciting challenge to Nordic to Israeli cuisine from one week to the next. All T the traditional restaurant format. In London, a more that remains consistent is a commitment to fresh food and flexible approach to dining has begun to flourish, with a relaxed atmosphere in which to enjoy it, with long wooden a host of upcoming chefs showcasing their work in unlikely tables and an open kitchen giving the sense of a friendly locations across the city, using locally sourced, seasonal dinner party. produce to craft experimental menus. It was with this new The daily lunch menu curated by Ollie shifts seasonally energy in mind that cousins Ollie, Will, Ed and Anna but retains an emphasis on unfussy cuisine and natural Templeton founded the innovative Carousel in 2014 – a flavours. A pool of creamy Tunworth cheese is complemented restaurant in the heart of Marylebone that does more than perfectly by the tang of a pickled elderflower salad, while

just serve food, but also provides a flexible creative space soft cubes of cured sea trout are a highlight, piled with page, This okpako. joe © carousel page: Facing for art exhibitions and workshops, as well as a regularly soy-marinated peas and topped with chopped shiso leaves. changing platform for talented chefs on the rise. Halved cherries with goat’s yoghurt and crunchy granita Split across three floors and a plant-filled courtyard, provide a refreshing conclusion to a diverse menu. Constant Carousel’s bright, industrial space is the perfect blank canvas change gives Carousel a natural momentum, with guests for its constant evolution. Upstairs, meanwhile, plays host floating in and out for a glass of wine and a few small plates to everything from calligraphy and terrarium-making classes at the bar, or returning downstairs from a workshop to feast to pottery and reflexology workshops; the adjacent gallery together. The result is unpretentious and welcoming, creating space showcases works from innovative artists from around an exciting cultural hub that pushes the boundaries of what the world. In the kitchen, an ever-changing rotation of guest a restaurant can be.

71 Blandford Street, W1U 8AB. 020 7487 5564. www.carousel-london.com

70 DINING ROUND UP.indd 70 22/08/2017 08:53 wnhouse © dai williams; williams; dai © wnhouse T To ee Tr ; dean s dean ; Ts ar e magazine e F Th sy o Te royal academy o F academy royal F sy o Te e keeper’s house cour house keeper’s e cod, clams and ocean herbs cour herbs ocean and clams cod, eaT; T: Th righ T: FT To om le om ey mary © mw mw © mary ey Fr Tn chu

The Keeper’s house Dean sTreeT ChuTney Mary The Magazine Situated in the corner of the Townhouse Founded in 1990, Chutney Housed in Zaha Hadid’s Royal Academy’s courtyard, Work from 50 key contemporary Mary was instrumental in swooping futuristic extension, The Keeper’s House was built artists line the walls of this Soho bringing authentic Indian the Serpentine Sackler Gallery’s in the 1870s, designed as a eatery, in an impressive collection cuisine to the capital, and retains contemporary restaurant serves central London home for the to rival most art galleries. Pieces its title as one of the finest Emmanuel Eger’s light but Academy’s Keeper – a coveted from names such as Damien destinations for sampling an bold menu, with dishes such

Facing page: carousel © joe okpako. This page, page, This okpako. joe © carousel page: Facing role that has endured to this day. Hirst, Peter Blake and Francesca authentic taste of India. The as halibut, wild mushrooms Walls are adorned with a range Lowe hang on subtly explicit restaurant recently extended its and hazelnuts, and Dingley of works by Royal Academicians wallpaper designed by Jonathan weekend brunch menu and live Dell pork belly with chipotle such as Grayson Perry and Tracey Yeo, which at a distance appears jazz to Sundays, while on the relish. For some culture, pair Emin, while the menu features innocently decorative, but up walls you’ll find specially your meal with a visit to seasonal dishes created by close reveals a saucy secret. commissioned paintings by The Touch That Made You, executive chef Oliver Couillaud. An all-day menu of classic contemporary Indian artists and an exhibition of the work As you pass through the glass British food features dishes such sepia enlargements of drawings of Norwegian photographer atrium, keep an eye out for the as Sussex lamb with gooseberry created in the 19th century by Torbjørn Rødland, on from Academy’s students at work in and watercress, rib-eye steak and travelling Russian artist Prince September 29 to November 19. their studios. the obligatory fish and chips. Aleksei Dmitrievich Saltykov. West Carriage Drive, Burlington House, 69-71 Dean Street, W1D 3SE. 73 St. James’s Street, Kensington Gardens, W1J 0BD. 020 7300 5881. 020 7434 1775. www.dean SW1A 1PH. 020 7629 6688. W2 2AR. 020 7298 7552. www.royalacademy.org.uk streettownhouse.com www.chutneymary.com www.magazine-restaurant.co.uk

70 DINING ROUND UP.indd 71 22/08/2017 08:53 72 LONDON & PARTNERS.indd 72 72 PROMOTION 22/08/2017 08:56

Trafalgar square © visiTlondon.com/Jon reid xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 72 LONDON & PARTNERS.indd 73

Trafalgar square © visiTlondon.com/Jon reid xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx September is beautythatistheBarbicanthis Brutalist luminaries.influential artistic atthe Arriving uponsomeofthe20th-century’sBrush most flag andtargets. at theRoyal Academy of Arts, includinghisiconic six decadesofwork by living legendJasper Johns Jean-Michelartist Basquiat. Alternatively, chart full-scale exhibitionintheUKof American Modern Masters at how van Eyck’s door atTheNationalGallery, you canmarvel presents Cézanne’sGallery whilenext portraits season. Fortime, thefirst theNational Portrait There’s ofbig-namesoloshows noshortage this BlockBusters go ondisplay attheRoyal Academy of Arts. Matisse’s studioastreasures from his workspace a radicalnew style. Later, yourself immerse in u a This autumn boasts one of the most varied and rich programmes andrich This autumnboastsoneofthemostvaried With the changing of the seasonscomesanabundance ofnew of With thechanging Explore London’s Autumn Seasonanddownload thewww.visitlondon.com/app. and diverse exhibitionsacross London’s eclecticgalleries. Basquiat: Boom for Real for Boom Basquiat: Arnolfini yet insculpture –fromicontopioneers agraffiti e s n tuM o l

portrait established portrait , thefirst ndon’s #LondonIsOpen Regent’s Park –thehomeof September 23). on Plus, besure to totake atrip oftheexhibitionvenuesurroundings (thiscloses sculptures by Marc Quinninspired by theunfinished Museum, aspectacleinitself, presents 12new artists,contemporary whiletheSirJohn Soane’s Rachel work of Whiteread, oneoftheUK’s leading Tate celebratesthedistinctive Britain sculptural Frieze Sculpture Frieze Pani MuseumandGardens,Horniman where theexhibition from thewindow). Keep southforthe venturing John bookemerging Latham(lookoutforthegiant artist House –thestudiohomeoflateBritish and galleries. HeadstraighttoPeckham toFlat Time Go beyond shows fascinating Zone1forsometruly city escape sculpture stars people ofSouthEast Asia andwater. examinesthecomplexrelationship between the endsonOctober8. ason

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72 LONDON & PARTNERS.indd 74 24/08/2017 09:18 INSPIRE 75 illustration © margaux carpier margaux © illustration Why aesthetes should retreat to the Scottish Highlands this season

75 INSPIRE_OPENER.indd 75 22/08/2017 09:23 INSPIRE

Kathryn Conway discovers that the majestic Highlands of Scotland serve as the perfect destination for an artistic retreat

auntingly beautiful, dramatic and wildly Traditional collection and the company’s collaborations rugged, the Scottish landscape has captivated with Fornasetti and Vivienne Westwood while serving the hearts and minds of artists, writers, poets as its creative director – Beauchamp turned her and composers for generations. Sir Walter Scott was attention to canvas and paint in 2011. A move from inspired to write his poem The Lady of the Lake after London to Scotland was facilitated by her daughter holidaying in The Trossachs, J.M.W. Turner took choosing to go to university in Glasgow and it wasn’t sketching tours of Scotland and captured the power long before the two of them were, as Beauchamp of nature with his atmospheric depictions of the herself notes, “shopping for a new home”. waterfalls on the River Clyde (The Falls of Clyde, 1801, The Arts & Crafts property in Tarbert on the west and Falls of the Clyde, 1840), and Felix Mendelssohn’s coast of Argyll that Beauchamp and her daughter tempestuous overture The Hebrides is the perfect ode uncovered – a former hunting lodge built by the to the surging power of the sea around the island of White Horse Whisky dynasty’s Peter J Mackie Staffa and its famed Fingal’s Cave. Come autumn, – couldn’t have been more perfect for someone Mother Nature conspires to add a touch of magic to looking for a creative hideaway. Beauchamp

the region’s already beguiling vistas – trees are awash theorised that others, too, might benefit from all Prior Colin © aSS ynt Mor, Cul and Suilven over e with seasonal colour, sunsets blaze a purplish hue and that the house and surrounding area had to offer.

the wildlife is a hive of activity. Put simply, there is “I wanted to share this place with people Sunri S no better time to indulge in a Highland adventure, – its glorious views, its pretty walled garden and particularly for those with an artistic passion to unleash. spectacular surrounding landscape,” says Beauchamp. Karen Beauchamp knows this only too well. “The notion of an art and design holiday, particularly 76 A trained architect and noted wallpaper designer as there weren’t many artistic retreats on the west – she was the brains behind Cole & Son’s Archive coast of Scotland, seemed like the perfect enterprise.” xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

HAVENS OF

76 INSPIRE ARTIST RETREATS.indd 76 22/08/2017 09:25 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 76 INSPIRE ARTIST RETREATS.indd 77

SUNRISE OVER SUILVEN AND CUL MOR, ASSYNT © COLIN PRIOR CREATIVITY air, inorder to, asBeauchampsays, “unravel the studio sessionswithtimeoutintothefi eld, enplein lead aCreative Landscape course,Art combining providing forone-to-onetuition. ampleopportunity people, Beauchamp’s retreats are deliberatelysmall, house canonlyaccommodateamaximum ofeight they feelnurtured, whichislovely tohear.” As the appreciatesay thatIgoextramile-they often involved inabsolutelyeverything andourguests environment from otherholidays,”she says. “I’m a housededicatedtoart, atotallydifferent soitoffers an artist’s house, it’s fullofinspirationalthings. It’s also every whimwithherconvivial hospitality. “This is their putting upguestsinherhomeandindulging house guests, Beauchampdoesitall: leadingcourses, accommodation toteachand hotels orself-catering Unlike someretreats whichrelyand onoutsidetutors PLEIN AIR EN a light-fi lled studio, the Whitehouse Studiowas born. So, following theconversion oftheatticspaceinto This autumn, from October1-7, Beauchampwill moored inthebay, aninteresting rock formation focus onthethingyou want topaint–afi shing boat Gigha, on onecaneliminatetheirrelevancies and yourself intoanartist. andturning a tourist But, quite achallengedetachingyourself from being places tositandpaint,” says Beauchamp. be can “It is shiningandtheskyblue, there are few better the Caribbean.those of “On agoodday, whenthesun beaches thatlookoutontoturquoise waters torival islandishometosecludedbaystiny and Hebridean totheIsleofGigha. isaboattrip course special.”Beauchamp’s highlights of the of One very as atotallyunmodernised is canal Victorian architecture. There’sCanal, which alsotheCrinan fi shing villagewithwonderful vernacular here,” shesays. “Tarbert, forinstance, isatraditional traditional picture ofScotland. “We’re more coastal thestudiodoesn’tsurrounding adhere toone’s or paint, Beauchampreveals thatthelandscape While vivid andappealingtoany lover ofpencil animage.”colour andshapetoform of intricacies At seven mileslongandjustamilewide, this 22/08/2017 09:25 77 hAmP UC A en Be Ays © KAr lid ho nting nting Ai io P Ud e st

78 or amazing flora and fauna, for instance,” Beauchamp skill and technological expertise required to take

adds. In short, anyone stuck in a creative rut is sure exceptional photographs. “Of course, there is no doubt Whiteho Us

to find the necessary inspiration here. But, Scotland that some people have a natural ability to see a shot oF doesn’t just provide a wealth of opportunity to – which is innate – but in photography there is a lot tesy paysagists alone; those behind the lens also find that can be learnt and people do improve,” says Prior. that they are in their element here. The numerous repeat clients that Prior sees

attending his workshops perhaps demonstrate the rrAn CoUr Through The viewfinder appetite for learning, and they are spoilt for choice A Colin Prior has been photographing Scotland’s when it comes to the photographic opportunities

wild places for decades. Garnering an international they are presented with. This October, Prior is hosting A VieW oF reputation for his panoramas, his passion has not a five-day trip to Glencoe (October 11-15), and only taken him around the world but has also seen another to Assynt and Coigach (October 18-22). him win awards, write books and, most recently, Both are designed to take advantage of the relatively tist enjoying enjoying tist

become the subject of a TV documentary about short autumn period when, as Prior notes, “the Ar

his attempt to capture three iconic mountains in Scottish landscape is at its finest.” Even on an overcast An north-west Scotland. “Living in Scotland provides or wet day, which some people may view as a access to some amazing wild places,” comments Prior. write-off in photographic terms, “there are some “People may use the term ‘wilderness’, but there’s locations that come into their own when it’s been no real wilderness in the world any more. Wilderness raining,” says Prior. “There is also the opportunity to to me is more a state of mind. I prefer the term photograph what I refer to as the ‘intimate landscape’. ‘undisturbed places’ and it is these undisturbed places These tend to be much more intimate images showing that we visit during many of my workshops.” the relationships between elements in a small area.” Prior began offering workshops as the One of the many highlights of the trip to Assynt democratisation of photography grew, a development is a pre-dawn climb up Stac Pollaidh. “The colours that has inevitably proved to be a double-edge sword that come up behind the mountains are absolutely for professional photographers like Prior. On the one amazing,” says Prior. “We’re there when the rut is on hand, images are now freely available, fulfilling a and when you’re standing up there and you can hear demand that once could only be provided by those the stags roaring in the moorland beneath, you can skilled enough in the art of great photography, but as feel the hairs on the back of your neck standing on digital camera technology advances, more and more end. It’s a wonderful experience and one that my people are seeking instruction on the compositional clients never forget.”

www.colinprior.co.uk n www.whitehouseart.co.uk

76 INSPIRE ARTIST RETREATS.indd 78 24/08/2017 09:20 THE ROYAL MEWS BUCKINGHAM PALACE

See The Diamond Jubilee State Coach, a time capsule of 1000 years of British history.

September – October 2017: open daily, 10:00–17:00 (last admission 16:15) November 2017: open Monday to Saturday, 10:00–16:00 (last admission 15:15) Entrance to the Royal Mews is on Buckingham Palace Road.

Book in advance at www.royalcollection.org.uk or call +44 (0)303 123 7302

IL ROYAL MEWS.indd 1 15/08/2017 16:03 80 INSPIRE 4x4 VEHICLE HIRE.indd 74 80 course to the rural idyllthatsobewitched Constable. totherural course both styleandcomfort.of It’s a thentimetochart Levante orJaguar F-Pace –theidealchoicesinterms 4x4/SUVwiththenew Maserati aluxury of driving individual orcouplewhowants thesafetyandthrill practicality forfamilies, for the whilealsocatering along withtheLandRover Discovery foradded such astheallnew Velar andtheRangeRover Sport, marques RangeRover thatincludevarious models, residence. high-end of The company avariety offers setofwheelsatyourdelivery hotelor ofaluxurious lover. escapeforany art making forafascinating remain remarkablythe early19thcentury unchanged, Dedham the views of Vale captured by Constable in works as whose sweeping suchcelebrated brushstrokes formed that was oncehometoJohn Constable, theartist and Suffolk, liesasliceofbucolic Englishcountryside drive from thecapital, ontheborder between Essex Starting inLondon,Starting call4x4 Vehicle Hire andtake would bechurlish nottodoso. Just atwo-hour to explore beyond thecapital’s limitsthatit ondon isawonderful city, but there issomuch a masterpiece The Hay Wain Wain Hay The in the scenery thatinspired oneofBritain’sin thescenery artists greatest For detailscall020 80880434orvisitwww.4x4vehiclehire.co.uk/4x4-hire-london Take yourself andimmerse toConstable Country atrip Vehicle drop-off andcollectionisavailable in 4x4 Vehicle Hire’s ElitePackage. journey t and The Cornfield The .Some of promotion to Flatford. Here one findsthesettingforConstable’s views outacross theRiver Stour, before following signs and Manningtree, pretty villagesthatboastimpressive Harwich RoadandontotheB1352take inMistley an odetohiswork. Sir homeofartist former Alfred Munningsandnow Museum Art (open untilOctober29), situatedinthe (closed Mondays) before by swinging The Munnings Boathouse Restaurant ifyou are feelingpeckish houses,with Georgian itisworth pullinginatthe heart. Whileyou admire themainstreet lined Dedham liesatits the picture-postcard villageof Dedham Vale isfêtedforitsstunninglandscapeand The Hay Wain Wain Hay The your designateddrop-off madesimple. point–road trips whereupon 4x4 Vehicle Hire will collectyour car from and 2pm. It’s then aleisurely drive backtoLondon areattractions andtours heldevery day atnoon Willy Lott’s Cottageare allstar HouseandBridge in hand. Managedby theNational Trust, Flatford Mill, about standingwhere Constable oncestood, paintbrush From here, follow CastleHilldown to the A137/ A designated Area ofOutstandingNaturalBeauty, (1821) andthere issomethingbeguiling o 22/08/2017 09:30

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IL MW EAT BOUTIQUE.indd 1 15/08/2017 16:05 PROMOTION Fall in love with London’s finest diamonds

Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s ﬁnest collection of jewellery and diamonds

Nestled in the heart of Holborn and Today, the romance lives on and just a short taxi ride from London’s the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is West End, you’ll find the historical area a collection of eight stores in Hatton of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover Garden near Farringdon. Since one of London’s hidden gems; a place the group’s flagship store Beverley steeped in history and romance since Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and family-owned brand has carved out garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a reputation for leading the local a handsome courtier in 1576. market in truly British jewellery design By 1870, Hatton Garden had including bespoke diamond pieces, established an international reputation coloured gemstones and remodelling as London’s jewellery quarter and the of existing jewellery. So if you’re looking UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend to purchase a token of your love and for more extravagant and expensive affection for someone special in your items of jewellery grew, the demand for life then look to one of Hatton Garden hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite Jewellery Group’s stores to find your diamonds increased. desired piece! The specialist jewellers in Hatton For more information, please Garden became famous for trading ask your Concierge for directions diamonds, often shipping rare stones and visit any of our stores or call around the world as jewellery became a 020 7405 4847 and ask to speak symbol of not only wealth and stature, to the group’s General Manager, but of love and affection. Carolyn Jackson.

The Hatton Garden Jewellers Group members are:

IL HATTON GARDEN.indd 1 15/08/2017 16:07 SHOPPING 83 illustration © eleni sofroniou eleni © illustration With its famous streets and pretty arcades, the capital is a haven for retail theatre

83 SHOPPING_OPENER.indd 83 22/08/2017 09:34 MAPS

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A UPPER E G Louis Vuitton E B B

ON LA T T S W N

T T D O R U

I F F P E L W C A

RU R U W B H B BoucheronC R L EN L E GOLD B O T

U Patek PhilippeI D W E N D T R RL S O N O O I N A FT De GrisogonoGT R K G ND N C

I ST Georg Jensen K Y

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T S S Adler L N T P Bulgari E G E N S Harry Winston R JAMES ST T T R

LOWER T TON E Chopard AR S U E Blancpain SQ R JOHN ST LOWER T BregeutE E

T Chaumet ALBE Van Cleef & Arpels R AR E

OLD BOND ST LL Cartier T T Y HI E HA Graff E R E Boodles R ST I G G E V O beIGe C Ralph Lauren S S MARL N T DO D Mikimoto G T O N G R EW A L I N B B U R E

David Morris V Salvatore Ferragamo G DE B S L Visit London’s finest collection of stylish clothes ER Tiffany & Co. buRlINGToN aRcade N A S A Chor Bizarre Restaurant E U S H

C T ST S O for women with curves. Beige specialises in RL U CHANELT Chatila K S Royal aRcade R R S E S S T VI A N sizes 16 to 28 for occasion wear, weekends EET DKNYEE I D ENM Max MaraNG T T

Calleija A R L T R E Nirav Modi S ET

L and more. Expect one-to-one service from Akris E I Prada W

Leviev TON S R E E

A knowledgeable stylists while sipping a glass of Saint Laurent Penhaligon’s T S LLOW

Omega T T AR wine. The West End store is open seven days Gucci R R

BO S Daks EET

E T a week, while the City branch (near Holborn) La PerlaC E Vertu S R

T L Marina Rinaldi Dolce A & Gabbana T has great clothes for busy professionals. AT

T DE

O Alexander McQueen Fortnum R T Cartier PICCADILLY N West end branch: 44 New cavendish Tod’s & Mason ON E ILLY CIRCUS S De Beers Mappin & Webb A D Street, W1G 8TR. 020 7935 3999. I C C G TRE P GREEN S Cath Kidston E www.beigeplus.com T PARK Tumi T N

ET bond Street Ritz Fine S Jewellery T T S TREE Emmett A N L Y S JERM Daks B T A

Longmire Church’s N’ B Thomas Pink Caviar House Links of London R U Hackett Paxton & Whitfield TM S RY & Prunier E

Lewin ST

LongmireT T R

IN LONDON SHOPPING MAPS new style.indd 84 24/08/2017 09:23 GORGEOUS CLOTHES PLUS SIZES 16-28

HOLBORN MARYLEBONE

33 Southampton Row 44 New Cavendish Street London WC1B 5HJ London W1G 8TR

CLOSED SUNDAY OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK beigeplus.com

IL BEIGE.indd 1 22/08/2017 09:36

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prestigious shopping venue: Burlington Arcade. Barbour/The Highlands R T

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020 7629 7621. www.chanel.com AD STREET U AR

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CHAneL L T STREET L HORSES E Ritz E E

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For the best fine jewellery and watches T ICK ICK

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that money can buy, why not visit Wempe’s B

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London boutique? The showroom offers an MS MARKET S R OR ST T

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a large number of the watch brands it stocks, RT ON T N

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as well as plenty of valuable guidance from its HE A L

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43-44 New Bond Street, W1S 2SA. ET

S 020 7493 2299. www.wempe.com T T T E A Bond Street S TRE N L Y S JERM B T A

N’

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IN LONDON SHOPPING MAPS new style.indd 86 22/08/2017 10:24

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CL ER T O N A R HAM YARD VILLAGE R G A L I N S B R A E E Reiss B U U S

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B S L Brummells C T ST ER ST S O RL N A S U ALF MOON ST. A T E of London

H U K S S N N R H R Superdry E S C T S T ST S ST S O E VI N S RL A OR EET EE I ENM H Charles TyrwhittU D T BERKELEY SQUARE . K

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T Jo Malone S VI R Moss Bros. E A N ILLY ILLY EET EE I S ENM ET D

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Regent Street now plays host to the largest Hunter T R PICCADILLY S

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ST Michael Kors store in Europe. Behind the Barbour R T

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ST E T historic façade lie three floors dedicated to A T L

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S TRE T T N L oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus Y T S E A B JERM S TRE Emmett T L N A Y S

B JERM N’ B Daks R T A U

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IN LONDON SHOPPING MAPS new style.indd 87 24/08/2017 09:26

MAPS KNIGHTSBRIDGE | CHELSEA Rolex By The Watch Gallery UGG Australia HYDE PARK S O u T H K E NSINGTON Mari Vanna Restaurant G E CORNER Burberry I D SW1x | SW3 | SW7 B R Harvey Nichols T S Boss H KNIGHTSBRIDGE I G L.K.Bennett N Salvatore Ferragamo K Alberta Ferretti

Lacoste Ermenegildo Zegna Swarovski Tom Ford Porche Design Dolce & Gabbana WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND Ermanno Scervino Tommy Hilfiger Moncler Massimo Dutti T Graff Escada S Russell & Bromley Louis Vuitton

L S Ted Baker I

S L Bonhams MON KNIGHTSBRIDGE A Gucci Miu Miu

O B Versace Roberto Cavalli A TPELIER ST D Fendi Rochester Big & Tall Clothing A Space NK Michael Kors N Hermès O Dior E R Karen Millen H Bulgari

at Harrods A Jimmy Choo N N S Dolce & Gabbana Amaya Kuoni O BottegaS Veneta BOSS T T Harrods C T Valentino Aromatherapy Associates P H Aaron Basha R E S CEN T R S M A at Harrods Saint Laurent From dressing Hollywood A-listers to N E O L Pinko S I providing suits for Premiership football teams, R Tod’s E Pucci B Reiss R Loro PianaS LOWNDES ST. O A T CHANEL ChristianMOTCOMB ST T Caroline Castigliano Nespresso A B S Hugo Boss has become synonymous with D Arije Louboutin Mulberry ALKIN impeccable tailoring. And while an off-the-peg Coccinelle B W H COTTAGE P La Perla E A CADOGAN PLACE Hugo Boss suit should be a staple in every U Prada D LaurenC B man’s wardrobe, the BOSS Made-to-Measure Emporio ArmaniA H Hervé Léger A O Caroline M John Boyd service is the pinnacle of the brand’s tailoring R Charles P Stewart Parvin L N YEOMA OVI P Agent expertise. Make an appointment at the Sloane AC Amrapali L S S T O A Bruce Oldfield H AN T NGTON Provocateur Square boutique for an initial consultation in E P S C Suzanne Neville EGGERTON TERR E M N QUARE its Made-to-Measure suite. O ’S RO Haute Couture R PONT STREET B

35-38 Sloane Square, SW1W 8DL. W PONT STREET S

020 7554 5700. P N D AVILION ROAD G CADOGA

W M Hawkes & Son S www.hugoboss.com E L L CAD O M W CAD C R L LE

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L L ACE U Serena Linley Provence C ADOG AN P F TE G EmiliaAN GA WicksteadPA Lulu Guinness C ADO Van Peterson Design Thomas Pink PELHAM STREET VILION RO T ELLI S S Browns SOUTH KENSINGTON Anya HindmarchM PL WIL B R A HA Giorgio Armani VES STREET EET Chloé I R E TER R A S LOAN R ST DRAYCOTT TER . E D D D R NY T CADOGAN R A Hackett DE REE Y T CO M ST S Zadig & Voltaire T R A T N SLOANE AVENUE A A Smythson H VENUE MOO

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E PeterN Jones SLOANE SQUARE C A S L S SQUARE LO BOSS P TT Boggi Milano O C FORD GDN LinksWE of London AY L Massimo Dutti R CU T.M.Lewin R SLOA Russell D & Bromley BCBG Max Azria ACE L Eric Bompard Calvin Klein T Michael Kors ANDERSON S ’S ROAD N S NE BRAY P SOHobbs L.K.Bennett L OU KING ST WatcheS Of C Jigsaw C DUKE OF HEL T T SWitzerLanD E YORK Reiss WALPOLE STREETN Thomas HASabo SQUARE Elliot Rhodes Housing the largest Patek Philippe in-store M Neal’s Yard Remedies Hawes & Curtis TER boutique in the UK, the Watches of Switzerland R

showroom on Brompton Road is a must for Penhaligon’s

any watch fan. With a reputation for stocking FRANKLI world-famous brands, this store is also offering N ’S RO names such as Clerc and L. Kendall. Visit the ’S ROAD D W VIP suite on the second floor to view the ROA KING L new collections at your leisure. L.K.Bennett PITA 47-51 Brompton road, SW3 1De. OS H L 020 7581 7037. A OY www.watches-of-switzerland.co.uk R Knightsbridge Anthropologie Titchmarsh & Goodwin Vivienne Westwood Eskandar

IN LONDON SHOPPING MAPS new style.indd 88 22/08/2017 10:29 YOUR URBAN ESCAPE.

Spa InterContinental is a stylish urban retreat with result-led skincare and grooming services for men and women designed around any schedule.

Featuring state-of-the-art facilities and an expert team of therapists, the luxurious spa uses products from efficacy tested British spa and skincare brand, Elemis as well as luxury Californian brand SUNDÃRI.

+44 (0) 20 7318 8691 [email protected] spaintercontinentallondon.com

WORLD LUXURY SPA AWARDS WINNER Live the InterContinental Life. 2017

IL INTERCONTINENTAL.indd 1 22/08/2017 09:37 M APS COVENT g A R d E N | W C 2

STK DRURY LANE DRURY LANE Twinings

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VE GROSVENORS Céline OXFORD ST Balenciaga Watches of Switzerland GRO SQUARE Parmigiani Fleurier GEoRG JENsEN Rubinacci Christian Louboutin Founded by the eponymous Danish ORCHARD STREET PauleADAMS ROW Ka Pringle of Scotland Marc Jacobs silversmith in 1904, Georg Jensen has an NORTH AUDLEY STREET Kenneth Neame Linda Farrow Gallery illustrious reputation for quality craftsmanship MOUNT STREET A. Pash & Sons gEORg JENSEN and understated design, earning the brand a SOUTH AUDLEY STREETBremont Danish Royal Warrant, as well as collaborations T.Goode & Co with Zaha Hadid and Marc Newson. Discover Purdey Gun & Rifle Makers Erdem Balmain the jewellery collection marking 50 years of NORTH ROW Sinai & Sons Rick Owens collaboration with iconic silversmith Vivianna GREEN STREET Sollands Spa Illuminata Torun at the Mayfair boutique. 89 Mount street, W1K 2sR.

SOUTH STREET 020 3824 8430. www.georgjensen.com ALDFORD STREET Bond street PARK STREET

UPPER GROSVENOR STREET

UPPER BROOK STREET IN LONDON SHOPPING MAPS new style.indd 90 22/08/2017 10:32

GROSVENOR SQ InLondonAdvertillr.pdf 1 17/08/2017 13:17:51

CMY

IL MASALA ZONE.indd 1 22/08/2017 09:38 PROMOTION

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92 GLOBAL BLUE.indd 94 22/08/2017 09:46 93

JoHn LeWIs Spanning six floors, John Lewis’ flagship store on Oxford Street brings you the very best of home, technology and fashion.The beauty department is home to more than 100 of the biggest brands across fragrance, make-up and skincare, including Jo Malone, Crème de la Mer, Chanel and Bobbi Brown. You will also find an extensive range of fashion and accessories from iconic British brands such as Barbour, Mulberry and Somerset by Alice Temperley. Take some time to relax in one of our four different eateries throughout the store, from traditional Italian pizza at Rossopomodoro to English tea and a slice of cake at Benugo. GeorG Jensen Georg Jensen is a Danish design house renowned for artistic www.johnlewis.com/our-shops/oxford-street boldness, superior craftsmanship and creative collaborations with some of the foremost designers of the past century – and today. Founded in 1904 by master silversmith Georg Jensen, its collections include silverware and flatware, fine jewellery, watches, accessories and a home collection. Visit the Georg Jensen flagship store located at 89 Mount Street for a complimentary glass of Champagne and to discover iconic Scandinavian jewellery, watches and homeware.

www.georgjensen.com

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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 22/08/2017 09:49 95 PROMOTION

96 A FEAST FOR THE SENSES For a refined dining experience with panoramic views of the capital, Oblix is the perfect choice

ainer Becker has created an inspiring dining finest-quality produce, from duck egg and truffle experience at Oblix Restaurant and Bar. mayonnaise sandwiches from an artisanal family Serving stunning cuisine in a relaxing yet butchers in Islington, to freshly baked scones with sophisticated setting, Oblix is located on level 32 jam from Hackney, and sweet delights such as sea of The Shard and has views across the cityscape buckthorn and meringue tarts from further afield of London below. in East Sussex. An exceptional selection of fine teas The restaurant offers guests a contemporary twist is also available for guests to choose from. on a variety of global dishes, while the lounge and For those seeking an iconic dining and drinking bar has a set-priced alternative to the weekday destination overlooking the capital’s breathtaking business lunch, alongside a selective à la carte menu. skyline, Oblix offers live music in the bar and lounge Paying homage to the capital city and its vibrant on Friday nights, from 9pm to 1am, and an array of boroughs, guests can experience an Oblix twist on culinary-inspired cocktails. a British classic with the London Afternoon Tea. Oblix’s dedication to detail and refinement, coupled Served in the lounge on weekdays, guests can sample with the ultimate London view, results in an utterly ingredients sourced from local purveyors of the unforgettable dining experience.

Oblix, Level 32, The Shard, 31 St. Thomas Street, SE1 9RY. 020 7268 6700. www.oblixrestaurant.com

96 OBLIX ADVERTORIAL.indd 96 22/08/2017 09:57 IN DIRECTORY

EL PIRATA

London’s ﬁ nest classic Spanish tapas bar and restaurant. According to two leading restaurant critics: “El Pirata offers me everything I look for in a restaurant. Fine food, excellent choice, comfortable surroundings, marvellous service and a bill at the end that doesn’t give me indigestion!”… “A feast of tasty dishes. Starting with cold tapas, we nibbled huge prawns, juicy chorizo and ham, seafood and Russian salad. Then we received an array of hot tapas dishes which kept coming. Mmmm!” Add to this its award-winning wine list, and you will appreciate what makes this one of the capital’s ﬁ nest tapas bars and restaurants, as evidenced by the accolades it has received from three renowned guides, Zagat, Harden’s and Square Meal. Mon-Fri 12pm-11.30pm, Sat 6pm-11.30pm, Sun Closed.

5-6 Down Street, W1J 7AQ. 020 7491 3810/020 7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk Green Park/Hyde Park Corner

MANGO TREE

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world- renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the ﬁ nest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mon-Wed 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12pm-10.30pm.

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). 020 7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk Victoria 97

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AREA FOCUS DIRECTORY.indd 97 22/08/2017 10:12 98 PARTING SHOT.indd 98 98 and thebeautyofdecay. flowers Law installationof375,000dried atRoyal isexhibitingagiant BotanicGardens, providing visual experience, notonly anarresting but aconversation about thelifecycleofnaturalmaterials British installation artist Rebecca LouiseLaw installationartist createsBritish captivating site-specific sculptures thathighlightthe Kew from October7-29, inspired by theancientEgyptianfuneralgarlandspreserved inKew’s collection. beauty ofnaturalchange. florachange Fresh shapeandcolour and dry over oftheir display, the course www.rebeccalouiselaw.com PARTING SHOT

22/08/2017 09:59

the hated flower by rebecca louise law, originally exhibited at the coningsby gallery, london, in 2014 © rebecca louise law

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx LONDON THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE PRESENTS PRESTIGE BEAUTY IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES

LONDON THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

PRESENTS PRESTIGE BEAUTY

MAKE-UP ■ SKINCARE ■ HAIRCARE ■ FRAGRANCE ■ MEN’S GROOMING IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES

ENGLISH COVER.indd 1 14/08/2017 15:10 For stockists and product details on the brands found within this supplement, please follow the links to the websites listed below:

AERIN www.esteelauder.co.uk/aerin • ARAMIS www.houseoffraser.co.uk • AVEDA www.aveda.co.uk BOBBI BROWN www.bobbibrown.co.uk • BUMBLE AND BUMBLE www.bumbleandbumble.co.uk • CLINIQUE www.clinique.co.uk CLINIQUE FOR MEN www.clinique.co.uk/mens • DARPHIN www.darphin.co.uk • DKNY www.theperfumeshop.com ESTÉE LAUDER www.esteelauder.co.uk • EDITIONS DE PARFUMS FRÉDÉRIC MALLE www.fredericmalle.com GLAMGLOW www.glamglow.co.uk • JO MALONE LONDON www.jomalone.co.uk • LA MER www.cremedelamer.co.uk LE LABO www.lelabofragrances.com • MAC www.maccosmetics.co.uk • MICHAEL KORS www.debenhams.com ORIGINS www.origins.co.uk • SMASHBOX www.smashbox.co.uk • TOM FORD BEAUTY www.selfridges.com

ILIBC TEMPLATE.indd ESTEE LAUDER.indd 1 99 26/09/201718/08/2017 12:3214:50