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Home , Anamalai Tiger Reserve, Baijnath Temple, Bhadra Fort, Bhongir, Bidar Fort, Brahmani River

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

India

Kashmir & p229 p286 Punjab & p204 p413 #_ Uttar p535 Northeast p60 & the Pradesh States p377 p558 p108 p355 & p485 & p516 & ^# Diu p625 p688 p453 p595 ^# p774 p736 & p914 p809 p856 Andaman p1011 p945 p1095

Joe Bindloss, Lindsay Brown, Paul Harding, Anirban Mahapatra, Daniel McCrohan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Michael Benanav, Stuart Butler, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Bradley Mayhew, Kevin Raub, Sarina Singh, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to . . . . . 6 DELHI...... 60 KASHMIR India Map...... 8 & LADAKH...... 229 India’s Top 21 ...... 10 RAJASTHAN. . . . . 108 Leh ...... 233 Need to Know...... 20 ...... 109 Markha Valley...... 252 First Time India . . . . . 22 Bharatpur & Keoladeo Nubra Valley...... 254 What’s New...... 24 National Park ...... 130 Pangong Tso...... 257 If You Like ...... 25 Alwar ...... 134 Tso Moriri Loop...... 258 Month by Month. . . . . 28 Sariska Reserve Leh to Kargil...... 259 Itineraries ...... 34 & National Park ...... 136 Kargil & Zanskar...... 265 Booking Trains ...... 39 Ajmer...... 137 Srinagar...... 272 Trekking...... 41 Pushkar...... 140 Pahalgam & Aru...... 279 , & Ranthambhore Gulmarg...... 280 Spiritual Pursuits. . . . . 43 National Park ...... 145 Naranag & Volunteering...... 46 Bundi...... 148 Lake Gangabal ...... 280 Travel with Children. . . . 51 Kota ...... 152 Sonamarg...... 281 Regions at a Glance. . . . 54. Chittorgarh (Chittor). . . . 153 South of Srinagar...... 282 Udaipur ...... 156 Jammu...... 282 Mt Abu...... 168 DIY13/SHUTTERSTOCK © Nawalgarh...... 173 HIMACHAL Jhunjhunu...... 175 PRADESH ...... 286 Fatehpur ...... 176 Shimla ...... 287 Mandawa...... 177 Rampur ...... 296 ...... 178 Sarahan...... 297 ...... 188 Sangla Valley...... 298 Bikaner...... 197 Rekong Peo...... 299 ...... 299 PUNJAB Mandi...... 302 TAJ MAHAL P357, AGRA & HARYANA...... 204 Rewalsar ...... 302 Chandigarh...... 206 Tirthan & Hills...... 213 Banjar Valleys...... 304

ITSMEJUST/SHUTTERSTOCK © Pinjore (Yadavindra) Bhuntar...... 306 Gardens...... 214 Valley ...... 306 Amritsar...... 214 Kullu...... 311 Kapurthala...... 223 Naggar...... 312 Faridkot...... 224 Manali...... 314 Bathinda ...... 224 Dharamsala...... 324 Patiala ...... 225 McLeod Ganj...... 326 Anandpur Sahib...... 226 Dharamsala to Mandi . . . . 336 Kurukshetra Chamba Valley ...... 338 (Thanesar)...... 227 Lahaul ...... 344 Sultanpur Bird SPICES AT A MARKET STALL Sanctuary ...... 228 Spiti ...... 346 Contents

AGRA & THE KOLKATA Khecheopalri TAJ MAHAL. . . . . 355 (CALCUTTA) . . . . . 453 (Kechuperi) Lake...... 553 Yuksom ...... 554 Agra ...... 356 Dzongri & Fatepur Sikri...... 372 WEST BENGAL. . . . 485 Goecha La – the Khangchendzonga UTTAR Tiger Reserve...... 487 Trek...... 555 PRADESH ...... 377 Up the Hooghly. . . . . 488 Tashiding...... 556 ...... 380 Bishnupur...... 489 Kuluk & Rinchenpong. . . 557 ...... 393 Shantiniketan...... 490 Gorakhpur...... 394 Murshidabad NORTHEAST & Berhampore ...... 492 ...... 395 STATES...... 558 & Pandua...... 493 Sunauli & the ...... 560 Nepal Border...... 397 Siliguri & . . . . 571 New Jalpaiguri ...... 494 Lucknow...... 398 ...... 579 Kurseong...... 497 & Around. . . . . 403 ...... 583 Darjeeling ...... 498 Prayagraj (Allahabad). . . 405 ...... 585 Singalila Ridge ...... 508 Western ...... 587 ...... 410 Kalimpong...... 510 ...... 590 Jaldapara UTTARAKHAND . . . 413 National Park ...... 515 ODISHA...... 595 Rishikesh...... 415 . . . . . 597 Haridwar ...... 422 BIHAR ...... 605 Rajaji Tiger & JHARKHAND. . . . 516 Reserve ...... 425 Patna ...... 518 ...... 610 Dehra Dun...... 426 Raxaul ...... 523 ...... 611 Mussoorie...... 429 Gaya...... 524 Gopalpur-on-Sea . . . . . 615 Yamunotri ...... 432 Bodhgaya...... 525 Koraput ...... 616 Uttarkashi...... 433 Rajgir...... 529 Rayagada...... 619 Gangotri & ...... 531 Jeypore ...... 620 Gaumukh Glacier...... 434 Ranchi ...... 532 Cuttack ...... 621 Kedarnath...... 435 Betla (Palamau) ...... 621 Joshimath...... 436 National Park ...... 534 Mangarajpur...... 621 Valley of Flowers Pusphagiri Ruins . . . . . 621 & Hem Kund...... 438 SIKKIM...... 535 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Badrinath & Sanctuary ...... 623 Mana Village...... 441 ...... 538 Corbett Tiger Rumtek...... 545 Reserve ...... 442 Mangan ...... 546 MADHYA PRADESH & Nainital...... 445 Dzongu...... 546 CHHATTISGARH. . . 625 Almora...... 447 Far North Sikkim ...... 547 Gwalior...... 627 Kausani ...... 450 Namchi...... 549 Orchha...... 632 ...... 451 Ravangla (Rabongla). . . . 550 ...... 637 Munsyari...... 452 Pelling ...... 551 Panna Tiger Reserve. . . . 647 ON THE ROAD

Bhopal...... 648 MUMBAI KARNATAKA. . . . . 856 ...... 652 (BOMBAY)...... 736 Bengaluru Pachmarhi...... 657 ()...... 858 Indore...... 660 MAHARASHTRA. . . 774 Hesaraghatta ...... 873 ...... 665 Mysuru ()...... 873 Nashik ...... 776 Mandu ...... 668 Bandipur Aurangabad...... 780 Maheshwar...... 673 National Park ...... 885 Ellora ...... 784 Omkareshwar...... 674 Nagarhole Ajanta...... 787 National Park ...... 886 ...... 675 Jalgaon...... 790 Kodagu (Coorg) . . . . 678 ...... 790 Region ...... 887 Bandhavgarh Konkan Coast...... 793 Hassan...... 889 Tiger Reserve...... 681 Matheran...... 797 Belur...... 890 . . . . 682 Lonavla...... 798 Halebid...... 891 ...... 684 ...... 800 Sravanabelagola...... 891 Jagdalpur...... 685 ...... 806 Mangaluru (Mangalore)...... 892 Mahabaleshwar ...... 807 GUJARAT & DIU . . . 688 ...... 894 ...... 894 (Amdavad) ...... 690 GOA...... 809 Malpe...... 895 Vadodara ...... 812 Gokarna...... 895 (Baroda) ...... 702 ...... 820 ...... 899 Bhavnagar...... 706 Mapusa ...... 821 ...... 906 Velavadar Candolim...... 822 National Park ...... 708 Hosapete (Hospet) . . . . . 907 Calangute & Baga . . . . . 825 Palitana...... 708 Hubballi (Hubli)...... 907 ...... 829 Diu ...... 709 ...... 907 Assagao...... 833 Somnath ...... 714 Vijapura (). . . . . 910 Vagator & Chapora . . . . . 834 ...... 913 & Wildlife Sanctuary. . . . 716 Morjim...... 838 Asvem ...... 839 Junagadh...... 718 TELANGANA Gondal...... 721 Mandrem...... 840 & ANDHRA Jamnagar...... 722 Arambol (Harmal). . . . . 841 PRADESH...... 914 ...... 844 Rajkot...... 725 ...... 916 Colva...... 845 Kachchh (Kutch) . . . . 727 ...... 934 Benaulim...... 846 Bhuj ...... 727 ...... 934 Agonda...... 847 Little Rann of Palampet...... 934 Palolem ...... 849 Kachchh (Kutch)...... 734 Vijayawada ...... 935 Patnem...... 854 Amaravathi...... 937 Nagarjunakonda...... 937 Visakhapatnam...... 938 Tirumala & Tirupati. . . . . 942 Contents

UNDERSTAND

KERALA...... 945 Kanyakumari India Today ...... 1118 (Cape Comorin). . . . . 1073 Thiruvananthapuram History...... 1121 (Trivandrum)...... 947 (Kodai) . . . . 1077 The Way of Life. . . . . 1138 Kovalam...... 952 ...... 1082 Spiritual India. . . . . 1145 Varkala...... 957 Coonoor...... 1084 Delicious India . . . . . 1153 Kollam (Quilon) ...... 962 Kotagiri ...... 1085 The Great Indian Alappuzha (Alleppey). . . . 964 Ooty Bazaar ...... 1163 (Udhagamandalam). . . . 1087 Marari & Kattoor ...... 969 The Arts...... 1171 Mudumalai Kottayam...... 970 Sacred Tiger Reserve...... 1092 Architecture ...... 1176 Kumarakom...... 971 Wildlife & Parks. . . . . 1181 Periyar Tiger Reserve . . . . 973 ( ...... 978 Wildlife Sanctuary The Landscape. . . . . 1186 & National Park)...... 1093 Kochi (Cochin)...... 983 Thrissur (Trichur)...... 998 Kozhikode (Calicut). . . . 1000 ANDAMAN SURVIVAL ISLANDS...... 1095 Wayanad Region...... 1003 GUIDE Port Blair...... 1099 Kannur & Around. . . . . 1006 Havelock Bekal & Around...... 1008 Scams...... 1190 (Swaraj Dweep) . . . . . 1104 Lakshadweep ...... 1009 Women & Neil Island Solo Travellers . . . . . 1192 (Shaheed Dweep) ...... 1109 Directory A–Z. . . . . 1194 Middle & North TAMIL NADU. . . . . 1011 Transport...... 1207 Andaman...... 1112 (Madras). . . . 1013 Health...... 1218 Little Andaman...... 1114 East Coast Road. . . . . 1031 ...... 1225 Index...... 1239 (Mahabalipuram). . . . . 1033 Map Legend...... 1253 Kanchipuram ...... 1037 ...... 1040 Puducherry (Pondicherry)...... 1042 Auroville...... 1051 SPECIAL Chidambaram...... 1052 FEATURES (Tranquebar)...... 1053 Red in 3D. . . . . 66 Kumbakonam...... 1054 Taj Mahal in 3D...... 358 Thanjavur (Tanjore). . . . 1056 in 3D...... 374 Trichy (Tiruchirappalli)...... 1060 Khajuraho Temples in 3D ...... 638. Chettinadu ...... 1064 Mysuru Madurai...... 1067 Palace in 3D...... 876 Rameswaram ...... 1071 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32 India: Off the Beaten Track 444 : : : THE K3: KISHTWAR– K2 (Godwin 4444Austin)R4 KILLAR–KEYLONG (8611m) KABUL PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Dubbed the world’s most dangerous #_ Kargil •# THE K3: road, the K3 teeters along terrifyingly 4444#• KISHTWAR–4 narrow rock ledges high above the #_ Srinagar KILLAR– ISLAMABAD Chenab River in Jammu. (p283) JAMMU KEYLONG Jammu4•# #•4 •# Udaipur

5 5 Amritsar #• Shimla 5 5 #• Nanda

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK 444 5 5 5 5 (7816m) WILDLIFE Dehra Dun •# R PAK5ISTA5N 5 SANCTUARY 5 5 5 5 45 IND4IA In dense forests in Rajasthan this 5 5 HARYANA #_DELHI 5 5 #•5 wildlife sanctuary provides homes to #•Bikaner Gurgaon 5 5 5 antelope, gazelle, , wolves and RAJASTHAN 5 5 •#Jaisalmer 5Jaipur5 #•Agra the occasional . (p167) #• 5 Ajmer Jodhpur#• •# 5 5 5 KUMBHALGARH5 WILDLIFE5 Jhansi : : SANCTUARYë# #• : 5 : 5 •#Udaipur LONAR METEORITE : : : : : Ahmedabad CRATER 44: Bhu4j : : 4 •# (Amdavad) : : : : : •# #• #• Created 50,000 years ago this huge Mandvi: :Rajko:t : • #• GUJARAT # crater in Maharashtra has a shallow : : : : : Indore 44Saura4shtra 4 : green lake at its base and wilderness (Kathiawar 5 all around. (p791) Peninsula): S:urat #•: Tadoba-Andhari : G:ulf of Ajanta Tiger Reserve #• :4:Kham4:bhat ë# Aurangabad #• #æ LONAR : : DUDHSAGAR FALLS •#Mumbai METEORITE : CRATER Meaning 'Sea of Milk' Dudhsagar is : :MAHARASHTRA Warangal #• Goa’s 300m-high, tiered waterfall, #• reached by a bumpy, 45-minute 4WD Hyderabad ride through stunning jungle scenery. (p838) Arabian Panaji Sea DUDHSAGAR (Panjim) #• FALLS GOA #Y ANDHRA PRADESH KARNATAKA MURUDESHWAR MURUDESHWAR #• Bengaluru 5 This beachside pilgrimage town in Mangaluru (Bangalore)•# 5 Karnataka is known for its colossal (Mangalore)•# #• seashore stature of Lord Valiyaparamba#• Mysuru TAMIL overlooking the Arabian Sea. (p897) (Mysore) NADU •# Coimbatore •# Parambikulam ë# Trichy5 Lakshadweep Tiger Reserve (Tiruchirappalli) Sea 5 5 5 KERALA 5 DHANUSHKODI #• DHANUSHKODI 5 5 5 •# Thiruvananthapuram Gulf of Once a thriving port, now a ghost (Trivandrum) Mannar town standing at the end of a remote promontory in Tamil Nadu. (p1072) COLOMBO#_ 33

0 #•1,000 km #• e# 0 500 miles

: External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of the . PTHOAGAH PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN R Da du K CHINA CHINA : 5 TIBET 5

4 OFF THE BEATEN TRACK : : 5 : 5 5 : : : 5 #•Lhasa #•PTH:OA:GA:H : #• 5 5 Gy5antse Tuting 44Annapu4rna #• 5 (8090m)R Mt E verest ARUNACHAL : Khangchendzonga: : : 5 5(8848m) PRADESH NEPAL R : (8586m) : #_ R #_ KATHMANDU : THIMPHU : #• : : 4444#• 44 Lucknow #• ASSAM #• Darjeeling Gu w:ahat:i : UTTAR Lauriya : : #•: : : 5 5Mand5angarh5 #• PRADESH : :Shillo:ng #• : 5 5 5 5 NAGALAND Varanasi 44: : : : : : : #• G MEGHALAYA #• 5 5 5an 5 5 5 5 ges : B:ANG:LADESH: MANIPUR R:ive : : : : 5 MADHYA JHARKHAND r TRIPURA #• 5 5 #• 5 5 PRADESH PAASNATH : : #_ #•Udaipur #• : :5 D:HAKA Ranchi Kol5kata:5 : MIZORAM #• #• 5 :5 : 5 Chittagong CHHATTISGARH Sundarbans 5 5Natio5nal MYANMAR Park (BURMA) #•Raipur #ë5 5 ODISHA Debrigarh 5 5 5 5 : #ë Wildlife : : Satkosia 5 Sanctuary Tig5er Res5erve 5 5 PAASNATH 5 5 #• 5 TELANGANA 5 5 T #ÚG:NTPALL #•5 : 5 H Vijayawada 5 5 Bay of Bengal

5 Chennai Mayabunder #• #• (Madras) Andaman Islands Andaman #•Port Sea Blair GNTPALL A B A Nicobar chaitya-griha Islands SRI #_ LANKA 34

Itineraries

NA

AKTAN DELHI #_ É

É

#•

Jaisalmer #•

#• É #• Agra É Jaipur Pushkar #• Fatehpur #• Sikri Jodhpur

÷#Ranthambhore

National Park É

#• Udaipur

2 WEEKS The Golden Triangle & the Land of the Kings

Linking Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, India’s Golden Triangle combines some of India’s most jaw-dropping sights. The princely splendours of Rajasthan make for a natural extension. Kick off in Delhi, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells of . Explore its Mughal-era and Jama Masjid, and experience living Islamic culture at the cap- tivating Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah. Next, catch a train to Agra and gasp at the beau- ty of the Taj Mahal. Explore and devote a day to the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri. Continue on to the Pink City of Jaipur; don’t miss the City Palace, Hawa Mahal and Amber Fort. Return to Delhi, or travel on to Pushkar for a few days of chilling out around lakeside temples. Drop into Ranthambhore National Park to spot , then roll south to elegant Udaipur, with its floating palace and serene lake. Next, visit magnificent hilltop Kumbhalgarh and the temple at Ranakpur, en route to Jodhpur; fort offers the definitive view over Rajasthan’s -blue city. Enjoy a camel trek through the dunes in fortified Jaisalmer before looping back to Delhi for an early-morning trip to the ruins of Qutab Minar. 35

Ladakh •# AFHANTAN É Dharamsala •#•# Manali CHNA Amritsar•# TBET

•# Shimla É •#Rishikesh RAN AKTAN #_DELHI TRIP YOUR PLAN É NEA SIKKIM Jaipur •# •# •# Agra BHTAN Jodhpur•# Darjeeling •# Khajuraho Varanasi

É •# •# Udaipur •# ÷# É

GUJARAT •# É Bandhavgarh É ANAR Tiger Reserve •# Kolkata BRA NA •# Konark BANAEH Ellora •# Ajanta •#•#

Mumbai •# Puri It

i nerar É É Hampi THAAN •# •# Arabian Sea GOA i es •#Chennai Mysuru •# •#Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)

(Mysore) •# É Puducherry Andaman (Pondicherry) Islands •# KERALA •# Madurai Nicobar R Islands AE ANKA

6 S North & South MONTH

Tourist visas last six months, allowing you to mix famous highlights with detours off the established tourist grid. Start by exploring Delhi, then ride the rails north to Amritsar to see Sikhism’s glit- tering Golden Temple. Connect through Chandigarh to lofty Shimla; from this classic hill station you can roam northwest to Dharamsala, home of the Dalai , before doubling back to adrenalin-charged Manali, starting point for the thrilling overland journey to rugged Ladakh (June to September). When you’ve had your fill of mountain air, head south for some yoga in Rishikesh, and descend to Agra to admire the vision- like Taj Mahal. Next, go south to Khajuraho, with its risqué temples, and scan the jun- gle for tigers in Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. Continue to Varanasi for a mesmerising boat trip along the sacred . Roam east to Kolkata, bustling capital of West Bengal. Swing north as far as Dar- jeeling or Sikkim for sweeping Himalayan views, then drift down the coast to the temple towns of Konark and Puri in Odisha (Orissa). Continue south to Chennai for a big-city view of . From Chennai, detour south to the temple wonders of Mamallapuram (Mahabali- puram), continuing to French-colonial Puducherry (Pondicherry). Rumble on to Ma- durai, with its -encrusted temple towers. Enjoy some beach time in Kerala before roaming inland to nostalgic Mysuru (Mysore) to see how maharajas lived. Continuing north, head to Hampi, where collapsed temples lie strewn among the boulders, then unwind on the sun-stroked coast of Goa. Wine, fine-dine and go Bollywood-crazy in Mumbai, then admire the glorious cave paintings and carvings at Ajanta and Ellora. Finish with Rajasthan’s triumvirate of coloured cities – pink Jaipur, blue Jodhpur and white Udaipur. There might just be time to detour to the fascinating temples and nature reserves of Gujarat before you take one last train ride to Delhi. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1239

Index

A activities 28-31 Almora 447-9 Anjuna 829-33, 829 A Suitable Boy 407 Adinath 709 altitude sickness 1223 Araku Valley 941-2 Aalo 577 686, 1142-3, see Alwar 134-6 Arambol 841-3 accessible travel 1194 also tribal peoples Amaravathi 937 architecture 14, 478, 1066, accommodation 22, 1194-6, 587-9, 588 Amarnathji Yatra 281 1125, 1176-80, 14, see see also individual Agonda 847-9 Amber 129-30 also individual buildings locations Agra 55, 355-76, 356, 361 Amdavad, see Ahmedabad colonial-era 875, 1130 1125 children, travel with 53 accommodation 355, Amritsar 16, 24, 214-22, 16 costs 779, 936 364-7 Anandpur Sahib 226-7 area codes 21 heritage homestays accommodation costs Andaman Islands 24, 58, art galleries 365 24, 969 1095-11, 1096 David Hall 984 hostels 24 activities 364 accommodation 1095 Kalakriti Art Gallery 919-20 language 1226, 1229 climate 355 accommodation costs accommodation costs 1194-5 drinking & nightlife 369 1103 Kashi Art Gallery 984 Agra 366 festivals & events 363 beaches 1095 Mario Gallery 813 Amritsar 222 food 355, 367-9 cell phones 1099 Museum of Goa 825 Andaman Islands 1103 history 356 climate 1095, 1097 Books 1015 Andhra Pradesh 936 safe travel 370 environment 1097 arts 1163-70, 1171-5 Bihar & Jharkhand 522 shopping 369 geography 1097 bell-metal craftwork 686 Chhattisgarh 635 sights 356-64 highlights 1096 Bidri 1165 Delhi 96 tourist information 370-1 history 1097 carpet-making 1163-4 Goa 816 tours 364 internet access 1099 folk art 1166-7 Gujarat 709 travel to/from 371-2 mobile phones 1099 Kachchh handicrafts 732-3 Haryana 222 travel within 372 North Andaman 1112-14 leatherwork 1165 Himachal Pradesh 287 Ahmedabad 690-700, 692-3 Restricted Area Permit Jaipur 119 accommodation 695-7 1097-8 metalwork 1165 Kashmir 257 festivals & events 695 safe travel 1097 miniature paintings 152, 1166 Kerala 959 food 697-8 telephone services 1099 murals 152 Kolkata 469 shopping 698 travel to/from 1098 patachitra 610 Ladakh 257 sights 691-4 travel within 1098-9 rangolis 1174 Madhya Pradesh 635 tourist information 699 tribal peoples 1115-16 Saora art 610 Mumbai 749 tours 694 Andaman Trunk Road 1112 talpatra 610 Northeast States 567 travel to/from 699 Andamanese 1115-16 Tibetan arts 334 Odisha 608 travel within 699-700 Andhra Pradesh 57, 935-44, woodcarving 1169 Punjab 222 909-10 915 wool shawls 313, 1167 Rajasthan 119 air travel 1207-8 accommodation 914 Aru 279-80 Sikkim 549 airlines 104, 1210 accommodation costs Arunachal Pradesh 571-9 Tamil Nadu 1036 airports 104, 1207-8 936 ashrams 44 Telangana 936 Aizawl 586-7 climate 914 Anasakti Ashram 450 Uttar Pradesh 400 12, 787-90, festivals & events 916 Maharishi Mahesh Uttarakhand 419 788, 12 food 914 Ashram 417 West Bengal 494 Ajmer 137-40, 138 highlights 915 history 916 Amrithanandamayi Alappuzha 964-9, 966 Mission 964 Anegundi 906-7, 904 Alchi 262-3 Osho International Map Pages 000 Allahabad, see Prayagraj animals, see individual Resort animals Photo Pages 000 Alleppey, see Alappuzha 801, 804 1240 ashrams continued Bekal 1009-10 bird-watching booking trains 39-40 Ashram 691 Belur 890-1 Bhitarkanika Wildlife books Sivagiri Mutt 957-8 Benaulim 846-7 Sanctuary 623 cinema 1174, 1175 Sivananda Yoga Bengaluru 858-73, 860-1 Binsar Wildlife dance 1171 Sanctuary 450 Dhanwantari Ashram accommodation 864-5 fiction 1118 952 Centre for Desert & activities 863 food 473, 1153, 1154,

INDEX INDEX Ashram Ocean 732 drinking & nightlife 1156, 1157, 1160 1042-3 Chilika Lake 611-15 868-9 history 1126, 1128, 1131, Sri Ramana Ashram Corbett Tiger Reserve entertainment 870-1 1132 1040 442 A–B festivals & events 864 religion 1122, 1145, 1149  Surfing Ashram 895 Dandeli 908 food 865-8 textiles 1168

Swarg Ashram 417 Debrigarh Wildlife  history 859 visual arts 1173 Vivekanandapuram 1074 Sanctuary 624 shopping 871 wildlife 1185 Asiatic lions 716, 717 Fudam Bird Sanctuary sights 859-63 border crossings Assagao 833-4 712 tourist information 871-2 India- 1208 Assam 560-71 Great Himalayan tours 863 National Park 305 India-Bangladesh Asven 839-40 (Agartala) 589 travel to/from 872, 873 Hampi 902 ATMs 1200 India-Bangladesh travel within 872-3 Keoladeo National Aurangabad 780-4, 781 (Siliguri) 496 Berhampore 492-3 Park 131 Auroville 1051-2 India- 1208-9 Bhagsu 333-5 Khijadiya Bird autorickshaws 1213 Sanctuary 725 India-Bhutan (Siliguri) Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh 496 Avalanche Valley 1091 801, 804 Mt Abu 171 India-Myanmar 1209 Awantipora 282 bhang 188, 1203 Nalsarovar Bird Ayodhya 403-5 Sanctuary 701 India-Myanmar (Moreh) Bharatpur 130-4, 132 586 ayurveda 27, 44-5, 977 Bharmour 342-3 565 India-Myanmar Bhavnagar 706-8, 708 (Zokhawthar) 586 B Pobitora Wildlife Bheemunipatnam 940 India-Nepal 1209 1127 Sanctuary 564 Bhimbetka 652 India-Nepal (Banbassa) backwaters 972-3, 1008 Rajaji Tiger Reserve 425 Bhitarkanika Wildlife 449 Badami 907-9 Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 623-4 Sanctuary 885 India-Nepal (Panitanki) Baga 825-9, 826 Bhojpur 652 Sultanpur Bird 506 Bageshwar 451-2 Bhongir 934 Sanctuary 228 India-Nepal (Raxual) 524 Bahu 304 Bhopal 648-52, 649 Tirthan Valley 304 India-Nepal (Siliguri) Bajrang Dal 597 Bhubaneswar 597-605, Thattekkad Bird 496 Bandel 489 598 Sanctuary 982 India-Nepal (Sunauli) Bandhavgarh National Park 397 Bhuj 727-30, 728 Vedanthangal Bird 681-2, 13 India-Pakistan 1209-10 Bhujodi 732 Sanctuary 1035 India-Pakistan Bhuntar 306 Wild Ass Sanctuary 734 885-6 (Attari–Wagah) 222 bicycle hire 1210-11 Ziro Valley 576 Bangalore, see Bengaluru Buddha 395, 396, 522, 523, Bidar 913 Bishnoi villages 187 Banjar Valley 304-6 545, 546, 528, 530, 1123 Bishnupur 489-90 Bansberia 489 Bihar 56, 518-32, 517 1150-1 black market 1201 bargaining 23, 1168 accommodation 516 1178 Blue Mountains 1080 Barkul 615 accommodation costs Buddhist circuit 1150 522 boat travel 24, 1210, 1211, Baroda 702-5, 703 Buddhist temples 25 climate 516 1213 Barshani 310-11 boat trips Ajanta Caves 12, festivals & events 519 787-90, 788, 12 Basgo 260-1 Alappuzha 965 food 516 Amaravathi 937 basilicas, see churches & Assam 562 highlights 517 Chetiyagiri Vihara 656 cathedrals Diu 712 history 518 Chukchikjal Temple 270 Bathinda 224-5 Ganges 380, 488 safe travel 531 784-7 Bavikonda 941 Kerala backwaters 13, water 529 Global Vipassana beaches 15, 26-7, 15, 818 972-3, 1008, 13 Bijapur, see Vijapura 743 bears 1182, 1183 Kollam 962 Bikaner 197-202, 198-9 Golden Temple 890-1 Beatles, the 415, 417 Mumbai-Goa 1211 bike travel 1210-11 Indosan Nipponji Temple Periyar Tiger Reserve 974 Billing 337-8 526 Bodhgaya 525-9, Binsar 450 526 525 Bollywood 767, 1174 Mahaparinirvana Temple Map Pages Bir 337-8 000 Bombay, see Mumbai 396 Photo Pages birds 1184 000 Bomdila 571-2 Mathakuar Temple 396 1241 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar cell phones 20, 1099, 1204 Bandel Basilica 489 clothing 1141 394 chaat galli 368 Basilica de Bom Jesus Cochin, see Kochi Sanchi 655, 1180 chai 1160 820 Coimbatore 1082-4, 1083 Thai Temple & Chamba 340-42, 341 Basilica of Our Lady of Colva 845-6 Dolours 998 Monastery 393 Chamba Valley 338-43 consulates 1196-8 Chennai 1020 Tsuglagkhang Complex Champaner 705-6 cooking classes 1158

326 Church of Our Lady of INDEX 489 Assagao 833 Tsuklakhang 539 the Immaculate Con- Chandigarh 206-13, 208-9 Delhi 79-81 Zangdogpalri Temple ception 812, 818-19 890-1 Chapora 834-8, 836 Church of South India Jaipur 117 B–D budgeting 21, see also charas 306 1000 Kochi 985 accommodation costs, Chemrey 251-2 Church of St Cajetan Kolkata 465 costs Chennai 1013-31, 1016-17, 821-2 Munnar 979 buffalo racing 896 1022-3 Church of St Francis of Palolem 849-50 Bundi 148-52, 149 accommodation 1020-3 Assisi (Diu) 710 Periyar Tiger Reserve 974 bus travel 1006, 1213 activities 1019 Church of St Francis of Pushkar 141 Assisi (Old Goa) 821 business hours 21, 1201-2 courses 1019 Udaipur 160 CSI Christ Church 978 Bylakuppe 890 drinking & nightlife Vagator 835 1026-7 Holy Rosary Cathedral Coonoor 1084-5 460 C entertainment 1027 Coorg region, see Kodagu Lourdes Church 1062 Calangute 825-9, 826 food 1023-6 region Marth Mariam Church Calcutta, see Kolkata history 1014 Corbett Tiger Reserve 442-5 998 Calicut, see Kozhikode shopping 1027-8 costs 21, see also New Jerusalem Church accommodation costs Candolim 822-5, 824 sights 1014-15, 1018-19, 1053 1020 bus 1212 cannabis 188, 306, 384, Our Lady of Immaculate car 1212 1199, 1203 tourist information 1028-9 Conception Cathedral Cape Comorin, see tours 1019-20 1044 food 1196 Kanyakumari travel to/from 1029 Our Lady of Lourdes healthcare 1220 car travel 1211-13 travel within 1030-1 Cathedral 998 train 1216, 1217 car-sharing services 24 Chennamangalam 997-8 Puducherry 1044 Covelong, see Kovalam Delhi 107 Cherrapunjee 593-4 Sacred Heart Basilica (Tamil Nadu) Goa 811 Chettinadu 1064-7 1044 Craggy Island 1113 Jaipur 128 Chhattisgarh 56, 684-7, 626 San Thome Cathedral credit cards 1190, 1200-1 Kolkata 484 accommodation 625 1015 culture 1138-14 Mumbai 772 accommodation costs Santa Cruz Basilica 984 currency 20, 1200 carpets 1163-4 635 Sé Cathedral 820 customs regulations 1196, 1199 caste system 1139-14 climate 625 Solomon’s Temple 586 Cuttack 621 cathedrals, see churches & costs 635 St Aloysius College cathedrals festivals & events 627 Chapel 893 cycle-rickshaws 1213 caves food 625 St Francis Church 983 cycling 1210-11 Ajanta Caves 12, 787-90, highlights 626 St John’s Church (Kolkata) 460 788, 12 history 627 D St John’s Church dabba-wallahs 761 Aurangabad Caves 782 Chidambaram 1052-3 (Trichy) 1062 326, 331, 332 Badami 908-9 Chidiya Tapu 1104 St Mary’s Cathedral 1069 Dalhousie 338-40, Baratang caves 1112 children, travel with 51-3, 339 St Mary’s Orthodox Daman 706 Bhaja Caves 800 766 Church 970 Dandeli 908 Borra Caves 941 China, relations with 1126 St Mary’s Syrian dangers, see safe travel Buddhist caves, Ellora Chinnar Wildlife Knanaya Church 970 786-7 Sanctuary 983 St Paul’s Cathedral 456 Darjeeling 498-508, 500 Edakkal Caves 1004 Chishti, Khwaja Muin-ud- St Paul’s Church 710 debit cards 1200-1 din 137-8 Ellora Caves 784-7, 786 St Stephen’s Church Debrigarh Wildlife Guntupalli 938 Chitkul 298-9 1087 Sanctuary 624 Jain caves, Ellora 787 Chitrakut 405 St Teresa’s Church 743 Dehra Dun 426-9, 426 Kanheri Caves 769 Chittorgarh (Chittor) 153-6, St Thomas’ Cathedral 742 Delhi 17, 54, 60-107, 62-3, 154 Karla Caves 800 St Thomas’ Church 1087 68-9, 72-3, 80-1, 84, Chola temples 1055 , Kutumsar Cave 687 cinema 767, 1118, 1133, 88-9 17 Lenyadri 806 Christianity 573, 1151-2 1174-5 accommodation 60, 82-7 Saspol 262 churches & cathedrals Cinque Island 1104 accommodation costs 96 Undavalli Cave Armenian Church of climate 20, 28-31, 42 Nazareth 460 activities 79-81 Temples 935 climate change 1207 1242 Delhi continued E Mumbai street food 758 801 climate 60 electricity 1196 Odisha 602 Fort 806 courses 79-81 elephants 1181 Parsi cafes 755 796 drinking & nightlife 96-9 Andaman Islands 1108 Punjab 226 805-6 entertainment 99 Betla (Palamau) National scams 1190 75-6 festivals & events 61 Park 534 Sikkim 543 Taragarh 149

INDEX INDEX food 60, 87-96 Corbett Tiger Reserve 442 Tibet 243 Tsemo Fort 235 food costs 96 Jaldapara National tongba 547 Tughlaqabad 79 highlights 62-3 Park 515 Uttar Pradesh 401 Uparkot Fort 720

D–G history 61 Kaziranga National forts 25 934  safe travel 102-3 Park 566 Agra Fort 360-3 Fudam 712  shopping 99-102 564 Amber Fort 129 sights 64-79 Rajaji Tiger Reserve 425 Anandpur Sahib Fort 227 G tourist information 103-4 Ellora Caves 784-7, 786 Bala Quila 135 Galgibag 854 tours 81-2 embassies 1196-8 1009 Gandhi, Indira 75, 1137 travel to/from 104-6 emergencies 21, 1228, Fort 692 Gandhi, Mahatma 450, 1230, see also safe travel within 106-7 913 690, 691, 695, 706, 725, travel 726, 738, 1133-4, 1166 demographics 1119 Chalukyan hill fort 934 1183 Gandhi Memorial departure tax 1208 Chandragiri Fort 944 environmental issues Museum 1068 197 834 endangered species 1183 Gandhi Museum 72-3 Dha Hanu 256 Chehni Kothi 304 boat trips 973 Gandhi National Dhankar 352 Chittorgarh (Chittor) Kerala backwaters 973 Memorial 800 Dhanushkodi 1072 153-6 volunteering 48 National Gandhi Dharamkot 333-5 Citadel (Vijapura) 910-11 Museum 74 Dansborg fort 1053-4 Dharamsala 324-6, 325 983 Raj Ghat memorial 73-4 784 Dharavi Slum 748 Ernakulam, see Kochi Gandhinagar 700 Diu Fort 710 Dharmasthala 894 etiquette 23, 787, 1120, 1149 28, 30 822 Dhenkanal 621 events, see festivals & Ganges 415, 422 dhows 731 events Fort St Angelo 1007 boat trips 380, 488 Dibrugarh 570-1 Excelsior Island 1113 Fort St George 1019 Ganges Delta 487-94 Diglipur 1113-14 exchange rates 21 1041 Sangam 405-7 Dimapur 579 exports 1199 920-1 Gangetic dolphins 487 Dirang 572 Govindgarh 224 Gangotri 434-5 disabilities, travellers F 629-30 Gangtok 538-45, 540 with 1194 Faridkot 224 Fort 274-5 Ganpatipule 795-6 Diskit 254-5 Fatehpur 176-7 Jaigarh 129-30 gardens, see parks & Diu 57, 709-14, 711 Fatehpur Sikri 372-6, 374-5 188, 14 gardens 28, 31, 61 festivals & events 28-31, Janjira Fort 793-4 Garhwal 418 Donyi-Polo religion 573 see also individual Junagarh 198-9 Garhwali Himalaya 433 drinks 1159-60 locations Kamru Fort 298 Gaumukh Glacier 434 beer 24, 762 films 767, 1118, 1133, 1174-5 Kangla Fort 584 Gaur 493-4 bhang lassis 1203 five pillars of 1149 335 Gaya 524-5 lassis 389 floating islands 585 Kankwari Fort 136 gay travellers 765, 1144, scams 1190 food 23, 1153-16, 2, see Kondapalli Fort 935 1199-200 also individual locations whisky 874 Kumbhalgarh 166 gems 125, 1191 Bengal 473 wine 778, 874, 1160 Lohagarh 130-1 gender equality bread 1154 1118-19 driving 1211-13 Mehrangarh 179, 18 Chennai street food 1026 driving licences 1214 Naggar Castle 312 ghats children, travel with 53 drugs 1190, 1199, 1203 Nahargarh 116 Chitrakut 405 costs 96, 1198 Dussehra 31, 61, 301, Fort 808 Haridwar 422 dabba-wallahs 761 311, 879 Purana 76 410 Delhi street food 92 Dzongu 546-7 (Faridkot) Maheshwar 673 Dzükou Valley 581 glossary 1160-2 224 Mumbai 743 Gujarat 707 Qila Mubarak (Patiala) Nashik 776 health 1222 225 Pushkar 141 Hyderabad 926 794-5 Rishikesh 415 Kashmiri 280 Ranthambhore Fort Ujjain 666 Map Pages 000 kebabs 401 145-7 Varanasi 381-4 Photo Pages 000 language 1226-7, 1229-30 Red Fort 64-7, 66-7 1243 Ghum 508 food 204 Arunachaleshwar Temple Temple Goa 15, 57, 809-55, 810, 15 highlights 205 1040 (Khajuraho) 643. accommodation 809 Hassan 889-90 Temple 978 Hanuman Temple (Sa- riska Tiger Reserve & accommodation costs 816 Havelock Island, see Swaraj Badrinath Temple 441 National Park) 136 Central Goa 812-21 Dweep Bagnath Temple 451 Hanumangarhi 403 climate 809 headhunting 582 Baijnath Temple 337

Harsiddhi Mandir 666 INDEX festivals & events 812 health 1218-24 Bala Hanuman Temple 723 Hazarama Temple 901 food 809 altitude sickness 233 carbon monoxide Bhadrakali Temple 934 Hoysaleswara Temple highlights 810 891 poisoning 1224 Bhima Devi Temple 214  G–H history 811 children, travel with 53 Bijamandala Temple 644 Iskcon Temple 743 North Goa 821-43  environmental hazards Bijli Mahadev Temple Jagannath Temple 617 safe travel 833 1222-4 311-12 Jagdish Temple 160 South Goa 844-55 food 1222 Birla Mandir Jakhu Hanuman Statue tourist information 811 heat 1222-3 (Hyderabad) 919 292 travel to/from 811 insurance 1218 Birla Mandir (Kolkata) Janardhana Temple 957 travel within 811-12 medicines 1219 464 Javari Temple 643 Gokarna 895-9 mosquitoes 597 Temple Jhandewalan Hanuman Golconda Fort 920-1 (Khajuraho) 643 Temple 71 water 529, 1221 Golden Temple 16, 1178-9, Brahma Temple Jor Bangla 490 healthcare 1220 16, 1178-9 (Pushkar) 141 Kailasa Temple 785-6 Hem Kund 438-40 gompas 1152 Brahmani Mata Temple Kailasanatha Temple Hemis 249-51 Gondal 721-2 343 1039 heritage hotels 1195 Gopalpur-on-Sea 615-16 Brajeshwari Devi Temple Kala Temple 776 Hesaraghatta 873 336 Gorakhpur 394-5 Kalighat Temple 464 hijras 1143 Brihadishwara Gorkhaland 499 Kalikamata Temple 705 Hikkim 350-1 Temple 1057 Gorkhas 499 Kamakhya Mandir 560 hill stations 13, 26, , Devi Temple 422 Goudaguda 619 13 Kamakshi Amman 19, see also individual Channakeshava Temple 1038 Guda Bishnoi 187 locations Temple 891 Kanak Bhavan 403-4 Gujarat 57, 688-735, 689 Himachal Pradesh 55, Chaturbhuj Temple 633 accommodation 688 Kanaka 286-354, 288-9 Chaturbhuja Temple 644 Temple 935 accommodation costs 709 accommodation 286 Chausath 605 Kandariya-Mahadev climate 688 accommodation costs Chausath Yogini Temple Temple 642 eastern Gujarat 690-706 287 643 Kapaleeshwarar festivals & events 690 Central Himachal Chitragupta Temple 642 Temple 1015 food 688 Pradesh 301-24 Choskhor Temple Karni Mata Temple 203 highlights 689 climate 286 Complex 262-3 Kashivishvanatha history 690 festivals & events 301 Devi Jagadamba Temple Temple 1054 Kachchh 727-35 food 286 642 Kedarnath 435 Saurashtra 706-27 history 287 644 Kesava Deo Temple 410 Gulabgarh 283 Kinnaur 296-301 Durga Temple 906, Keshava Temple 885 909-10 Gulmarg 280 Lahaul 343-54 Balaram Temple Dwarkadhish Temple 725 Guntupalli 938 Southern Himachal Complex 411-12 Pradesh 287-96 Ekambareshwara 560-3, 561 Krishna Temple 894-5 Spiti 343-54 Temple 1038 Gwalior 627-32, 628 Kumari Amman Western Himachal Elephanta Island 746 Temple 1074 Pradesh 324-43 Five Rathas 1033, 1035 H Kumbeshwara 433 Galta 116 Halebid 891 Temple 1054 language 1225-9 Ganesh Ratha 1037 Lakshimi Narasmiha 901 Hampi 10, 899-906, 902, 1176-7 Gangeswar Temple 711 Temple 641 904, 11 Gangotri Temple 434 Hare 411-12 Hindu 1145-6 Narayan Temple Hindu temples 605 643 633-4 Haridwar 422-5, 423 1000-Pillared Temple Gopal Mandir 667 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Harmal, see Arambol 934 Govind Dev Temple 412 Complex 340 Haryana 54, 227-8, 205 Achyutaraya Temple 901 Hadimba Mandir 315-16 Lakshna Devi accommodation 204 Ahom temples 569 Hanseswari Temple 489 Temple 342 accommodation costs Akshardham Hanuman Temple Lakulisha Temple 705 222 (Delhi) 78 (Anegundi) 906 Lalguan Mahadev climate 204 Akshardham Hanuman Temple Temple 643 festivals & events 213 (Gandhingar) 700 (Delhi) 77 Laxman Temple 685 1244 Hindu temples continued Sachiya Mata Temple 187 Venkateshwara Temple 1178-9 Laxmi Narayan Temple Sai Ka Angan Temple 79 942 Badshahi Ashurkhana 189 Sarangapani Temple Venugopala Swamy 918 Lingaraj Mandir 597 1054 Temple 884 Moula Ali Dargah 921 Mahabaleshwara Savitri Mata Temple 141 Vijayalaya Cholisvaram Islamnagar 652 Temple 896 Shankaracharya Mandir 1065 Itanagar 575

INDEX INDEX Virupaksha temple Mahadeva Temple 642 272 itineraries 32-8, 32-3, 34, (Hampi) 900, 11 Mahakaleshwar Mandir Shantinath Temple 643 35, 36, 37, 38 665 Shore Temple 1033 Virupaksha temple Mahalaxmi Mandir 806 () 909 H–J Shri Krishna Temple J  Mandir 313 Mahishamardini 1000 Jabalpur 675-8, 676

Vishvanath Temple 642  1037 Shri Murudeshwar Jagdalpur 685-6 Vishwanath Temple 381 Manimahesh Temple 342 temple 897 Jain architecture 1178 Vittala Temple 900 Manjunatha Temple 894 Shyamrai 489 Nandyavarta Mahal 532 Yamunotri Temple 432 Mansa Devi 422 Siddeshwara Temple 934 Parasnath Hill 533 1145-8 Masrur temple complex Simhachalam Temple Udayagiri & Khandagiri 336 938 history 1121-37 Caves 599 Mata Temple 217 Sri Chamundeswari hitching 1213 Jain temples 25 Temple 875 Matangesvara Temple Hmuifang 587 Adinath Mandir 722 642 Sri Jambukeshwara 28, 29, 388, 7 Adinath Temple 644 Meenakshi Amman Temple 1060-1 holidays 1202-3 Bhandari Basti 891 Temple 1067-8, 1176-7 Sri Kalahasteeswara homestays 1195 Bhandasar Temple 199 Mukteswar Mandir 598- Temple 1043 Hooghly River 488-9 9, 612 Sri Manakula Vinayagar Chandragupta Basti 891 Hosapete 907 Murlidhar Krishna Temple 1044 Chandranatha Basti 891 Temple 313 Sri Ranganathaswamy Hospet, see Hosapete Chandraprabhu 189 Nageshwara Temple Temple 1060 houseboats 276 Mandir 167 1054 Sun Temple (Konark) Hubballi 907 Digambara Jain Nanda Devi Temple 448 610-11, 612-13 Hubli, see Hubballi Temple 65 Temple 1052-3 Sun Temple (Modhera) Hundarman Broq 265 Ellora Caves 787 700 Nil Kanth Palace 671 Hunder 255 Hutheesingh Temple 691 Svayambhu Temple 934 Old Rangji Temple 141 Hyderabad 916-33, 917, Mahavira Temple 187 Swaminarayan Temple Pagal Baba Temple 412 919, 920, 924, 928 Parasnath 189 692 Pap Mochani (Gayatri) accommodation 922-4 Shantinath Mandir 722 Swarg Niwas & Shri Temple 141 activities 922 Sittannavasal 1065 Trayanbakshwar 415 Parsurameswar Mandir drinking & nightlife Soniji Ki Nasiyan (Red) Takhteshwar Temple 706 600 927-30 Temple 139 Tamil Nadu 1043 Parsvanath Temple 643 entertainment 930-1 Temple of Mallinath 718 Temple of Amba Mata Parvati Temple 642 festivals & events 922 Temple of Neminath 718 719 Patalpuri Temple 407-8 food 925-7 1151 Temple of sights 917-22 Pratapeswar Temple 642 719 Jaipur 109-28, 112-13 tourist information 931-2 Raghunath Mandir 282 Temple of Somnath 715 Jaisalmer 14, 188-96, tours 922 Rajarani Mandir 600 Thirunelly Temple 1004 190-1, 14 travel to/from 932 Ram Janam 404 Cave Temple Jalgaon 790 Ram Raja Temple 633 1033 travel within 932-3 Jammu 282-5, 284 Mission 70 Mandir Jamnagar 722-5, 723 Ramanathaswamy 589 I Jarawa 1115-16 Temple 1072 Tripura Sundari Temple Ichar 271 Jari 306-8 934-5 313 immigration 1205-6, 1207 jewellery 1164-5 Ramaswami Temple Undavalli Cave Temples Imphal 584-5 Jeypore 620 1054 935 Indore 660-5, 662-3 Jhansi 404 Rasmancha 489 Vadakkunathan Kshe- inner line permits 294, 299 Jharkhand 56, 532-4, 517 Raya Gopura 1037 tram Temple 998 insurance 1198 accommodation 516 rock-cut temple 952-3 Vaikunta Perumal health 1218 Temple 1038 accommodation costs Rock Fort Temple 1061 motorcycles 1215 522 Vamana Temple 643 internet access 1099, 1198 climate 516 Varadaraja Perumal internet resources 1159, Temple 1038-9 festivals & events 519 1182, 1193, 1200 Mandapa 1037 food 516 Map Pages 000 Irrawaddy dolphins 614 Vashisht Mandir 323 highlights 517 Photo Pages 000 Islam 1148-9 history 518 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Trent Holden Uttarakhand A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across , Africa and . With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to un- earth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Bradley Mayhew Kashmir & Ladakh; Agra & the Taj Mahal; Uttar Pradesh Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Ox- ford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the cowriter of Lonely Planet guides Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic long-distance trails. Bradley has also worked on guides to , Jordan, Morocco, India and the Indian Himalaya; written for Rough Guides; contributed chapters to : Monks, Warriors & Merchants and is a cowriter of Insight Guide’s Silk Road.

Kevin Raub Mumbai; Maharashtra Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, until he ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing. He has since written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and . Kevin also contributes to a vari- ety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers, and continues pounding the world’s pavements with one goal in mind: membership in the Travelers’ Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 93. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.

Sarina Singh After finishing her business degree Sarina bought a one-way ticket to India, where she met an aspiring photographer who requested her to write a paragraph for one of his photos in the hope he could get it published. The magazine asked Singh to turn her 100 word ‘caption’ into a 3000 word feature, and so began her accidental writing career. After five years in India she returned to her home town of Melbourne to pursue postgraduate studies at one of Australia’s top journalism universities. Sarina has written for 50 Lonely Planet titles, including more than 10 editions of India; four editions of Rajasthan and three editions of South India. She has also written for dozens of other international publications such as UK’s Sunday Times and USA’s National Geographic Traveler. Find her on Twitter @sarina_singh and www.sarinasingh.com. Sarina wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

Iain Stewart Karnataka; Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned more than 60 books for desti- nations as diverse as Ibiza and . Iain’s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and South-East Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon. Daniel McCrohan Delhi; Punjab & Haryana Daniel is a widely published Asia-travel expert who has written or cowritten more than 40 guidebooks for both Lonely Planet and Trailblazer. He specialises in China and India, but has also written books on Mongolia, Russia, Tibet and Bangladesh, plus numerous British walking guides. Daniel has been a guest speaker at international travel shows, and was a cohost on the television travel series Best in China. He speaks Chinese, adores tea and cycles pretty much everywhere. Find out what he’s up to on Twitter @danielmccrohan, or at danielmccrohan.com.

Isabella Noble Kerala; Andaman Islands English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist trav- el journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has cowritten Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and written Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram @isabellamnoble.

John Noble West Bengal; Northeast States John has been travelling for Lonely Planet since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written is well into three figures, on numerous countries scattered across the globe. He’s still as excited as ever about heading out to unfamiliar destinations, especially off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the Pyrenees to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.

Michael Benanav Tamil Nadu Michael is a veteran traveler, writer and photographer who loves ex- ploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s written three non-fiction books, including Men Of Salt: Crossing the Sahara on the Caravan of White Gold – the true story of a 1000-mile journey with one of the world’s last working camel caravans – and Himalaya Bound: One Family’s Quest to Save Their Animals & an Ancient Way of Life, which follows a tribe of nomadic herders into the Indian Himalayas. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents endangered cultures around the world. When not off travelling, he can often be found hiking in the hills behind his home in northern New Mexico. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.

Stuart Butler Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh; Gujarat & Diu Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow-bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. He also works as a photographer and was a finalist in both the 2015 and 2016 Travel Photographer of the Year Awards. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of Southwest with his wife and two young children. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.

Mark Elliott Himachal Pradesh; Sikkim Mark Elliott had already lived and worked on five conti- nents when, in the pre-Internet dark ages, he started writing travel guides. He has since written (or cowritten) around 60 books including dozens for Lonely Planet. He also acts as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, speaker, interviewer and blues harmonicist. He’s @Markbek on Twitter or www.instagram. com/markbekaz.

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Joe Bindloss Joe first got the travel bug on a grand tour of Asia in the early 1990s, and he’s been roaming around its temples and paddy-fields ever since on dozens of assignments for Lonely Planet and other publishers, covering everywhere from Myanmar and Thailand to India and Nepal. When not on the road, Joe works as Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Indian Subcontinent. Joe wrote the Plan Your Trip section.

Lindsay Brown Rajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has cowritten more than 35 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia, Nepal, Pakistan and .

Paul Harding Goa As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, , Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia. He’s on twitter @phtravel and at paulharding.contently.com.

Anirban Mahapatra Kolkata; Bihar & Jharkhand; Odisha Anirban is a travel writer, photographer and filmmaker who has written multiple editions of Lonely Planet’s bestsellingIndia guidebook, as well as several regional handbooks. He has written and curated Lonely Planet guidebooks or Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Bhutan, as well as design- ing content models and holding writer workshops for Lonely Planet. He has also made videos and documentaries for international television networks, corporates and ministries under the Government of India. When not travelling the world, he lives in Kolkata and Bangkok, where he reads up on Buddhism, listens to the blues and plans his next adventure.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 18th edition – October 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 369 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.