©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd India Kashmir & Ladakh p229 Himachal Pradesh p286 Punjab & Haryana Uttarakhand p204 p413 Sikkim Delhi #_ Uttar p535 Northeast p60 Agra & the Pradesh States p377 Rajasthan Taj Mahal p558 p108 p355 Bihar & West Bengal Jharkhand p485 Madhya Pradesh Gujarat & p516 & Chhattisgarh ^# Diu p625 p688 Kolkata Odisha p453 Maharashtra p595 Mumbai ^# p774 p736 Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Goa p914 p809 Karnataka p856 Andaman Tamil Nadu Kerala Islands p1011 p945 p1095 Joe Bindloss, Lindsay Brown, Paul Harding, Anirban Mahapatra, Daniel McCrohan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Michael Benanav, Stuart Butler, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Bradley Mayhew, Kevin Raub, Sarina Singh, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to India . 6 DELHI . 60 KASHMIR India Map . 8 & LADAKH . 229 India’s Top 21 . 10 RAJASTHAN . 108 Leh . 233 Need to Know . 20 Jaipur . 109 Markha Valley . 252 First Time India . 22 Bharatpur & Keoladeo Nubra Valley . 254 What’s New . 24 National Park . 130 Pangong Tso . 257 If You Like . 25 Alwar . 134 Tso Moriri Loop . .. 258 Month by Month . 28 Sariska Tiger Reserve Leh to Kargil . 259 Itineraries . 34 & National Park . 136 Kargil & Zanskar . 265 Booking Trains . 39 Ajmer . 137 Srinagar . 272 Trekking . 41 Pushkar . 140 Pahalgam & Aru . 279 Yoga, Ayurveda & Ranthambhore Gulmarg . 280 Spiritual Pursuits . 43 National Park . 145 Naranag & Volunteering . 46 Bundi . 148 Lake Gangabal . 280 Travel with Children . 51 Kota . 152 Sonamarg . 281 Regions at a Glance . 54 Chittorgarh (Chittor) . 153 South of Srinagar . .. 282 Udaipur . 156 Jammu . 282 Mt Abu . 168 DIY13/SHUTTERSTOCK © DIY13/SHUTTERSTOCK Nawalgarh . 173 HIMACHAL Jhunjhunu . 175 PRADESH . 286 Fatehpur . 176 Shimla . 287 Mandawa . 177 Rampur . 296 Jodhpur . 178 Sarahan . 297 Jaisalmer . 188 Sangla Valley . .. 298 Bikaner . 197 Rekong Peo . 299 Kalpa . 299 PUNJAB Mandi . 302 TAJ MAHAL P357, AGRA & HARYANA . .. 204 Rewalsar . 302 Chandigarh . 206 Tirthan & Morni Hills . 213 Banjar Valleys . 304 ITSMEJUST/SHUTTERSTOCK © ITSMEJUST/SHUTTERSTOCK Pinjore (Yadavindra) Bhuntar . 306 Gardens . 214 Parvati Valley . 306 Amritsar . 214 Kullu . 311 Kapurthala . .. 223 Naggar . 312 Faridkot . 224 Manali . 314 Bathinda . 224 Dharamsala . 324 Patiala . 225 McLeod Ganj . 326 Anandpur Sahib . 226 Dharamsala to Mandi . 336 Kurukshetra Chamba Valley . 338 (Thanesar) . .. 227 Lahaul . 344 Sultanpur Bird SPICES AT A MARKET STALL Sanctuary . 228 Spiti . 346 Contents AGRA & THE KOLKATA Khecheopalri TAJ MAHAL . 355 (CALCUTTA) . 453 (Kechuperi) Lake . 553 Yuksom . 554 Agra . 356 Dzongri & Fatepur Sikri . 372 WEST BENGAL . 485 Goecha La – Sundarbans the Khangchendzonga UTTAR Tiger Reserve . 487 Trek . 555 PRADESH . 377 Up the Hooghly . 488 Tashiding . 556 Varanasi . 380 Bishnupur . 489 Kuluk & Rinchenpong . 557 Sarnath . 393 Shantiniketan . 490 Gorakhpur . 394 Murshidabad NORTHEAST & Berhampore . 492 Kushinagar . 395 STATES . 558 Gaur & Pandua . 493 Sunauli & the Assam . .. 560 Nepal Border . .. 397 Siliguri & Arunachal Pradesh . 571 New Jalpaiguri . 494 Lucknow . 398 Nagaland . 579 Kurseong . 497 Ayodhya & Around . 403 Manipur . 583 Darjeeling . 498 Prayagraj (Allahabad) . 405 Mizoram . 585 Singalila Ridge . 508 Western Tripura . 587 Uttar Pradesh . 410 Kalimpong . 510 Meghalaya . 590 Jaldapara UTTARAKHAND . 413 National Park . 515 ODISHA . 595 Rishikesh . 415 Bhubaneswar . 597 Haridwar . 422 BIHAR Puri . 605 Rajaji Tiger & JHARKHAND . 516 Reserve . 425 Patna . 518 Konark . 610 Dehra Dun . 426 Raxaul . 523 Chilika Lake . 611 Mussoorie . 429 Gaya . 524 Gopalpur-on-Sea . 615 Yamunotri . 432 Bodhgaya . 525 Koraput . 616 Uttarkashi . 433 Rajgir . 529 Rayagada . 619 Gangotri & Nalanda . 531 Jeypore . 620 Gaumukh Glacier . 434 Ranchi . 532 Cuttack . 621 Kedarnath . 435 Betla (Palamau) Dhenkanal . 621 Joshimath . 436 National Park . 534 Mangarajpur . 621 Valley of Flowers Pusphagiri Ruins . 621 & Hem Kund . 438 SIKKIM . 535 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Badrinath & Sanctuary . 623 Mana Village . 441 Gangtok . 538 Corbett Tiger Rumtek . 545 Reserve . 442 Mangan . 546 MADHYA PRADESH & Nainital . 445 Dzongu . 546 CHHATTISGARH . 625 Almora . 447 Far North Sikkim . 547 Gwalior . 627 Kausani . 450 Namchi . 549 Orchha . 632 Bageshwar . 451 Ravangla (Rabongla) . 550 Khajuraho . 637 Munsyari . 452 Pelling . 551 Panna Tiger Reserve . 647 ON THE ROAD Bhopal . 648 MUMBAI KARNATAKA . 856 Sanchi . 652 (BOMBAY) . 736 Bengaluru Pachmarhi . 657 (Bangalore) . 858 Indore . 660 MAHARASHTRA . 774 Hesaraghatta . 873 Ujjain . 665 Mysuru (Mysore) . 873 Nashik . 776 Mandu . 668 Bandipur Aurangabad . 780 Maheshwar . 673 National Park . 885 Ellora . 784 Omkareshwar . 674 Nagarhole Ajanta . 787 National Park . 886 Jabalpur . 675 Jalgaon . 790 Kodagu (Coorg) Kanha Tiger Reserve . 678 Nagpur . 790 Region . 887 Bandhavgarh Konkan Coast . 793 Hassan . 889 Tiger Reserve . 681 Matheran . 797 Belur . 890 Pench Tiger Reserve . 682 Lonavla . 798 Halebid . 891 Raipur . .. 684 Pune . 800 Sravanabelagola . 891 Jagdalpur . 685 Kolhapur . 806 Mangaluru (Mangalore) . 892 Mahabaleshwar . 807 GUJARAT & DIU . 688 Dharmasthala . 894 Ahmedabad Udupi . 894 (Amdavad) . .690 GOA . 809 Malpe . 895 Vadodara Panaji . 812 Gokarna . 895 (Baroda) . 702 Old Goa . 820 Hampi . .. 899 Bhavnagar . 706 Mapusa . 821 Anegundi . 906 Velavadar Blackbuck Candolim . 822 National Park . 708 Hosapete (Hospet) . 907 Calangute & Baga . 825 Palitana . 708 Hubballi (Hubli) . 907 Anjuna . 829 Diu . .709 Badami . 907 Assagao . 833 Somnath . 714 Vijapura (Bijapur) . 910 Vagator & Chapora . 834 Gir National Park Bidar . 913 & Wildlife Sanctuary . 716 Morjim . 838 Asvem . .839 Junagadh . 718 TELANGANA Gondal . 721 Mandrem . 840 & ANDHRA Jamnagar . 722 Arambol (Harmal) . 841 PRADESH . 914 Margao . 844 Rajkot . 725 Hyderabad . 916 Colva . 845 Kachchh (Kutch) . 727 Bhongir . 934 Benaulim . 846 Bhuj . 727 Warangal . 934 Agonda . 847 Little Rann of Palampet . 934 Palolem . 849 Kachchh (Kutch) . 734 Vijayawada . .935 Patnem . 854 Amaravathi . 937 Nagarjunakonda . 937 Visakhapatnam . .. 938 Tirumala & Tirupati . 942 Contents UNDERSTAND KERALA . 945 Kanyakumari India Today . 1118 (Cape Comorin) . 1073 Thiruvananthapuram History . 1121 (Trivandrum) . .. 947 Kodaikanal (Kodai) . 1077 The Way of Life . 1138 Kovalam . 952 Coimbatore . 1082 Spiritual India . 1145 Varkala . 957 Coonoor . 1084 Delicious India . 1153 Kollam (Quilon) . 962 Kotagiri . 1085 The Great Indian Alappuzha (Alleppey) . 964 Ooty Bazaar . 1163 (Udhagamandalam) . 1087 Marari & Kattoor . 969 The Arts . 1171 Mudumalai Kottayam . 970 Sacred Tiger Reserve . 1092 Architecture . 1176 Kumarakom . 971 Anamalai Tiger Reserve Wildlife & Parks . 1181 Periyar Tiger Reserve . 973 (Indira Gandhi Munnar . 978 Wildlife Sanctuary The Landscape . 1186 & National Park) . .. 1093 Kochi (Cochin) . 983 Thrissur (Trichur) . .. 998 Kozhikode (Calicut) . 1000 ANDAMAN SURVIVAL ISLANDS . 1095 Wayanad Region . .. 1003 GUIDE Port Blair . 1099 Kannur & Around . 1006 Havelock Island Bekal & Around . 1008 Scams . 1190 (Swaraj Dweep) . 1104 Lakshadweep . 1009 Women & Neil Island Solo Travellers . 1192 (Shaheed Dweep) . 1109 Directory A–Z . 1194 Middle & North TAMIL NADU . 1011 Transport . 1207 Andaman . 1112 Chennai (Madras) . 1013 Health . 1218 Little Andaman . 1114 East Coast Road . 1031 Language . 1225 Mamallapuram Index . 1239 (Mahabalipuram) . 1033 Map Legend . 1253 Kanchipuram . 1037 Tiruvannamalai . 1040 Puducherry (Pondicherry) . 1042 Auroville . 1051 SPECIAL Chidambaram . 1052 FEATURES Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) . 1053 Red Fort in 3D . 66 Kumbakonam . 1054 Taj Mahal in 3D . 358 Thanjavur (Tanjore) . 1056 Fatehpur Sikri in 3D . 374 Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) . 1060 Khajuraho Temples in 3D . 638 Chettinadu . .1064 Mysuru Madurai . 1067 Palace in 3D . 876 Rameswaram . 1071 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32 India: Off the Beaten Track 444 : : : THE K3: KISHTWAR– K2 (Godwin 4444Austin)R4 KILLAR–KEYLONG (8611m) KABUL PLAN YOUR TRIP Dubbed the world’s most dangerous #_ Kargil •# THE K3: road, the K3 teeters along terrifyingly 4444#• KISHTWAR–4 narrow rock ledges high above the #_.
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