WWDBERLINPREVIEW From left: Blue cotton dress and matching pants from Hien Le; SECTION II Black cotton double shirt with attached vest effect with black cotton double shorts from Sissi Goetze; Lala ’s cotton-viscose jacquard sweater with polyester-cotton summer tweed shorts; Achtland’s summer sheath in double-silk satin with signature green silk georgette. (IN SISSI GOETZE); MAKEUP BY TOM (IN SISSI GOETZE); MAKEUP BY LISA ZEITLER STROHMETZ; HAIR BY

STATS AND SCENE ONES TO WATCH Checkpoint Berlin CALENDAR

Young designers are the march, gearing up for fashion week runways, presentations and trade fairs, July 1 to 7. PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG/WWW.FOTO-DI-MATTI.COM; MODELS: JHUNI (IN LALA BERLIN), HELENE (IN ACHTLAND), JULIA (IN HIEN LE) AND PELLE HILLIG/WWW.FOTO-DI-MATTI.COM; MATTI PHOTO BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

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An eclectic mix of exhibitions, Scene bars, stores, spirits and stats. HUE BET: Two special events promise to vividly brighten up the proceedings during fashion week this season. At Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week Berlin, spring’s Hyères champ Satu Maaranen will show her award- winning Garment in Landscape collection in a catwalk show sponsored by Elle on July 4, while Swiss men’s wear designer Julian Zigerli is team- ing up with German megaartist Katharina Grosse. Maaranen’s nature-inspired looks take cues from classic haute couture. Megahats, gloves gone grandiose and beyond-bold bows are matched with flowing coats, trim cropped trousers and straight skirts, all staged atop platform made by merging shiny dress brogues and imposing Looks from wooden soles. Hyères winner Almost everything in the Satu Maaranen. Finnish designer’s collection is color-drenched with broad brush- strokes — expressionistic silk screen and digital prints splash onto silk, cotton and viscose en- crusted delicately with sand, sawdust and grass, which adds volume and stiffness to rippling cuffs and hems. Maaranen has a knack for pat- tern recognition — she worked for Finnish textile legend Marimekko for two-and-a-half years while finishing her degree from Helsinki’s Aalto University. Her experience also includes in- ternships with traditional Italian fabric house Erica and Belgian designer Christian Wijnants. Prismatic play is also key for witty designer Zigerli. He’s return- ing to Berlin this summer to pres- ent a collaboration with Grosse, one of Germany’s most colorful contemporary artists. Her large- scale abstract works have livened Julian Zigerli teams with artist up galleries and museums globally Katharina Grosse. with their bright shades, massive shards, and undulating curves. Creating chromatic worlds, Grosse has previously fashion presentation on July 2 at Cruise & Callas gal- Garment in Landscape — Satu Maaranen used clothing in her installations — wedged in rocks lery in Kreuzberg. Models become human canvases, At MBFW Berlin, Strasse des 17 Juni and covered in dirt, then painted over with primary as Grosse’s sprays and splotches of paint turn into shades. And she wore a candy-colored Zigerli jacket prints that enliven Zigerli’s layered sportswear cut At the End of the World to the Left — to the opening of her current exhibition at Dallas’ from functional fabrics. Julian Zigerli and Katharina Grosse Nasher Sculpture Center. Julian Zigerli’s garments, known for their sweet At Cruise & Callas, Zigerli’s spring collection, titled At the End of the humor and sporty chic, can also be found in Collect Köpenicker Str. 187/188, 10997 (Kreuzberg) World to the Left, finds the two color lovers teaming Showroom at Capsule, which runs July 2 and 3. up for a rainbow that culminates in an off-site art- — SUSAN STONE {Continued on page 4}

The calculation of GfK Retail Purchasing Power for Germany takes into account expenditures on groceries and luxury food items; cloth- ing; shoes and household items — including furniture, flooring, household electrical appliances, textiles, gardening articles and cleaning supplies — health and body-care items; education; entertainment (e.g., TVs, radios, books, photogra- phy supplies, magazines, toys and sporting goods), and per- sonal effects (watches, jewelry, etc.). Purchases related to cars, fuel, services and repairs are not taken into account. GfK is a market research firm based in Nuremberg, Germany. WWD converted euros into dollars at the exchange rate of 1 euro to $1.33. ILLUSTRATION BY COLIN TIERNEY BY ILLUSTRATION The new maximalism.

The new S-Class and Sui He by Carine Roitfeld. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion A Daimler brand

Fuel consumption combined: 10.1–5.5 l/100 km; combined CO₂ emissions: 237–146 g/km. Figures do not relate to the specific emissions or fuel consumption of any individual vehicle, do not form part of any offer and are intended solely to aid comparison between different types of vehicle. The vehicle shown features optional equipment. Provider: Daimler AG, Mercedesstraße 137, 70327 Stuttgart 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

SECTION II FOR MORE WWD.COM SCENE, SEE WWD.com/ WWD BERLIN PREVIEW fashion-news.

the zeitgeist, he said, and what he ly (which translates to $475 a square Gap, River Island and Topshop, which thought was important rather than foot annually), according to realtor and reportedly has been actively seeking Scene choosing his personal favorites. property consultant company Comfort, space in Berlin. The manufacturers were all Tauentzienstrasse also commands the There’s been considerable activity family-owned companies that pro- city’s highest commercial rents. at that junction already this year. The duced in their own studios and pro- The German capital’s tourist boom new chain from H&M, & Other Stories, duction facilities “with a passion and the recent renaissance of Berlin opened its first German door in April; equivalent to a Bulgari. These manu- West, however, is adding even more Berlin’s first Apple store opened in a facturers were artists,” he declared, wind to Tauentzien’s sails. This month, former movie theater two blocks down noting that much of the jew- it witnessed the German debuts of two in May, as did a fifth G-Star Raw Berlin elry in his collection and young fashion powerhouses, Forever 21 door nearby. — M.D. on display in Berlin could and Pull & Bear, not only on the same never be made again. The day, but sharing the same building. SPIRITS OF BERLIN: Berliners are going cabochons used are no lon- The American chain moved into local when it comes to quenching their ger produced, the product four floors and 36,000 square feet of thirst for something special, as the is too labor intensive — not to a former book store at number 13 recent spate of home-grown liquor mention that most of the compa- Tauentzienstrasse for its Forever brands illustrates. nies are no longer in business. 21, Forever 21 Plus, Love 21 and 21 Part store, part bar, Our/Berlin A vintage piece Neither is Fior. If video killed the Men’s collections. Pull & Bear, Inditex vodka opened on Kreuzberg’s river- from the Fior radio star, then blame fashion’s mini- Group’s very Palm Springs-inspired side clubbing stretch this spring. The Collection. malist trend for the demise of the cos- guys’ and gals’ label, took a more airy vodka is distilled in the back room tume jewelry greats. and quirky interior design approach — definitely worth a peek in itself “Minimalism was a catastrophe on two floors and 7,500 square feet. — whereas the potent drink, which for costume jewelry, and real jewelry, is sold in large old-fashioned milk too,” he observed. “It wasn’t only be- bottles at 13 euros ($17) a pop (for {Continued from page 2} cause it reduced the style of the jew- 350 ml., or about 12 oz.), deserves a elry being made, but with small studs, front-row spot in any liquor cabinet. THE REAL THING: In the early Sixties, you have to sell thousands, and that It is the first in a chain of Our vodka when Lawrence Feldman started was boring, too. distilleries that will be set up in cho- squirreling away directional pieces “But in our case, it was the rents,” sen international cities, and retains a from his family’s Fior retail assort- which increased by 100 percent every local charm despite its financial back- ment each season, most people con- five years in Fior’s four London doors. ing by industry behemoths Absolut Co. sidered these treasures anything but. In 2001, the three Feldman brothers and Pernod Ricard. For in those days, “costume jewelry and three of their children active in Vincent Honrodt is a Berliner who was called junk jewelry. Now people the business closed shop. The family is also getting into the spirit. After understand it’s an essential part of the still owns the Fior name, as well as an successfully going against the applied arts in the fashion field,” the unparalleled collection of iconic cos- Forever 21 on Tauentzienstrasse. grain by re-branding Korn — a collector commented at the opening of tume jewelry. — MELISSA DRIER traditional corn-based spirit “Luxury for Fashion.” Neighboring to the left is H&M, while — for a new generation, he re- The exhibition at the Berlin “Luxury for Fashion: Levi’s — and the start of Ku’damm — cently launched a gin under Kunstbibliothek features almost 300 Fine Costume Jewelry from the Fior is across the street to the right. his Berliner Brandstifter pieces of costume jewelry from 1950 to Collection London 1950-1990.” “We’ve never actually opened right label (37 euros, or $49, for 1990 from the Fior Collection. Kunstbibliothek Berlin next to Pull & Bear, but we’ve been 700 ml., or about 24 oz.). The Feldman family’s London-based Matthäikirchplatz, 10785 Berlin next to everyone else,” noted Kristen Infused with a unique jewelry business dates to 1892 with a Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, Strickler, Forever 21 public relations concoction of organic first shop selling precious jewelry. In 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; through Oct. 6 and social media marketing manager. cucumber, elderflower 1932, Feldman’s father, Sonny, decided Web: smb.museum “It creates a synergy. Plus, we think we and hollyhock flowers, to focus instead on costume jewelry offer something different. Everyone it promises to hit the and fashion accessories in a new store TAUENTZIEN TANGO: Tauentzienstrasse, has their niche.” spot with eco-conscious that thrived until the onset of World which begins at Wittenbergplatz, Uniqlo is slated to open its Berliners as well as War II. He rebuilt the business after where it’s anchored by leading first German door in the former heartier gin fans. returning from active duty, opening an German department store KaDeWe, NikeTown premises farther down at “I wanted to create imposing Fior store in 1950 designed by and morphs into Kurfürstendamm just Tauentzienstrasse 7b, while Nike is something that people Berlin émigré and Bauhaus-trained ar- past and the Kaiser said to be moving into Esprit’s two- will really enjoy, rath- chitect Werner Heumann. Wilhelm Memorial church, has long floor store at number 9. Esprit already er than just drink to get Located in Burlington Gardens, been Berlin’s most-well-frequented opened a second store across the drunk,” said Honrodt. it was an instant success, serving shopping stretch. With the excep- street at number 15. Brandstifter gin made Berlin-distilled British and European royalty as well tion of KaDeWe, which in the past Bigger still will be Upper West, a its debut last month in Brandstifter gin. as film stars like Elizabeth Taylor, few years has established itself as a retail project of approximately 37,600 ’s King Size bar Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly. The luxury beacon, Tauentzienstrasse is square feet now under construction on and Grill Royal restaurant. only costume jeweler to be granted a more midmarket territory, housing do- Breitscheidplatz, a few steps farther The Schnapskultur store specializes royal warrant, Fior also catered to the mestic and international brands like along Ku’damm. Due to open in 2016, in high-quality, hand-crafted spirits from area’s shop girls, offering little items Nike, , Zara, Mango, Bershka, Jones Lang LaSalle Retail will start around the world. Proprietor Dr. Thomas at 10 pounds alongside elaborate cre- Desigual, Vero Moda, Jack & Jones, officially marketing the project in the Kochan curates a “Berlin corner” that ations from the genre’s leading inter- H&M, Esprit, , Benetton, a next weeks. The focus, said Andreas features brands he believes are worthy national producers. slew of footwear specialists, German Kogge, national director and team of “belonging to Berlin, both in terms of These include Feldman’s “Big Five” specialty store retailer Peek & leader Berlin, will be on “so-called high quality and local production.” — Marcel Boucher, Ciner, Mazer Jomaz, Cloppenburg, and many more. high-street renters.” Observers said Alongside beloved Berlin tipples Panetta and Polcini from New York At 320 euros a square meter month- these could include the likes of Zara, Adler gin and vodka, which are dis- — as well as Providence, R.I.’s Trifari tilled at the Preussische Spirituosen and Coro, and England’s Attwood & Manufaktur in Wedding, his latest tip Sawyer, Alpha and Mitchel Maer, who is Pijökel 55 (27.50 euros, or $36.50, produced Christian Dior’s jewelry col- for 500 ml., or 17 oz.), a Kräuterlikor, lections from 1954 to 1956. Henkel & whose low sugar content and conserva- Gross in Pforzheim, Germany, went on tive list of ingredients are hand-craft- to produce Dior jewelry for more than ed to create a sophisticated liquor. 50 years. (The Fior collection includes Kochan didn’t have to go far to 900 Dior jewelry sets, compared to the source it: Pijökel 55 is made by hand Dior archive’s 50.) The collection also on a parallel street in Prenzlauer Berg stars French and Italian haute couture by Henning Birkenhake and Gabriel jewelry from Louis Rousselet, Coppola Grote. The two friends started produc- e Toppo and Luciana. ing the liquor in 2010, following a reci- Feldman, who joined the firm in pe handed down by Grote’s late father, 1959, said some early Fifties pieces his who was a pharmacist. With the domi- father had set aside were the catalyst nant notes of ginger, cardamom and for forming this private collection of Ceylon cinnamon promising various 3,000 pieces and sets. But the true de- health benefits, this is the clear choice cisive moment came in 1961 with an ex- for guilt-free drinking. hibition of modern jewelry in London. — JESSICA SALTZ “I was looking at sculptures in min- iature, which is what I consider all Web: jewelry to be, whether real jewelry or ourvodka.com costume,” he said. berlinerbrandstifter.com From 1962 on, he bought back piec- schnapskultur.de es from Fior each season, guided by Pull & Bear’s new 7,500-square-foot store. pijoekel.de

6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

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The MBFWB tents will be Building Blocks set up at the . Emerging designers employ new strategies to face challenges and bolster their businesses. By Melissa Drier

WITH AN ESTIMATED 150,000 to How and where they’re spending it, 200,000 trade visitors thronging to however, is harder to predict. All agree Bread & Butter, Premium, Capsule, consumer habits are changing and Panorama, The Gallery Berlin, Show & that retailers must change along with Order and the rest of Berlin’s 10 trade them, but as the director of the German shows and assorted platforms each Apparel Retailer Association, Jürgen season, no one can say there aren’t any Dax, commented, “Nobody can say retailers in the German capital. where it will all lead” — other than to a Nonetheless, for Germany’s emerging more nervous retail environment, and designers and fashion labels — which German buyers already have a reputa- now make up the core of Mercedes-Benz tion for supreme caution. Fashion Week Berlin’s runway action “There’s a bottleneck at retail,” said and interest — buyer attendance in the Magdalena Schaffrin, organizer of the tent and off-site shows is sparse. Getting Green Showroom and Ethical Fashion a foot into German stores remains de- trade platforms, both of which continue signers’ greatest hurdle, and with retail to grow. “Retail has to move forward, but conditions expected to remain chal- we don’t know how to convince retailers lenging in the season ahead, designers to change. They aren’t doing that well, and as well as fair organizers say that’s not taking risks and picking up new names is going to change anytime soon. even harder in difficult seasons.” Bad weather, starting with a warm Designers are having more trouble 2012-13 winter, snow over Easter and than ever “breaking in,” she said. “But now nationwide flooding, has damp- there are consumers for these labels, es- ened sales and pressured margins, but pecially in green fashion,” she asserted. perhaps even more unsettling are the Many are considering direct distribution, spectres of steadily growing online sales opening their own online or studio shops, and declining consumer traffic in stores. she noted, but added that investment Not that German consumers are pulling capital is extremely hard to come by. back on spending. Nuremberg-based mar- “It’s really not been a good season ket research firm GfK reported improved for retailers, nor was the previous one,” income expectations and virtually no said Mirjam Dietz, international brand change in willingness to buy — both at high development and communications di- levels — for May, and noted Germany’s rector for the Igedo Co., which organizes consumer climate “is continuing on its up- The Gallery Berlin. “But if retailers don’t ward trend.” While the nation’s economy wake up and put aside 15 percent of their registered only marginal growth in the last budget for risk — that is, new collections

quarter of 2012, GfK said “only private con- — they won’t be able to differentiate HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY sumption provided positive momentum.” themselves from the rest of the market. As Olivia Zirkel, owner of Cologne And that’s crucial. We need to encourage Some of the exhibitors at The platforms. In keeping with most of the trade specialty store Simon & Renoldi, them to look for something new.” Gallery will also stage independent shows in town, the Berlin runway focus is summed it up, “Germans have lost Berlin, she continued, “offers an runway shows at the expansive new now clearly on contemporary labels and the their fear of spending. People are opportunity to make discoveries in a Opernwerkstätten venue. younger generation of design talent. eager to spend their money, because great surrounding. MBFWB is a de- There are 52 designer shows and pre- Indeed, some of Germany’s larger and they don’t know what to do with it oth- signer showcase and retailers should sentations on the official MBFWB lineup, more established fashion players, like erwise,” given low interest rates and save time for it, but all the commercial as well as 30 to 40 more under the auspices Hugo Boss and Rena Lange, are passing mistrust in the financial markets. trade fairs take their time away.” of Showfloor, Lavera, The Gallery and other {Continued on page 8}

6:30 p.m.: G-Shock G-Sessions & Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos 49 Rosenthalerstrasse Patrick Mohr, Voo, 24 Oranienstrasse 9:30 p.m.: Arrey Kono, Nadir Tati, 4:30 p.m.: DFT hosted by Stella Fashion Week Calendar 6:30 p.m.: G-Star Raw collection Romero Bryan (Africa fashion McCartney, Runway, MBFWB Following are the runway shows, presentations, events and trade fair schedules presentation and event, Karter day Be rlin), Runway, MBFWB 5 p.m.: Lavera Opening Show, for Berlin Fashion Week. Times and locations are accurate as of press time but Holzig, 23 Michaelkirchstrasse 10:30 p.m.: Siok, Runway, Umspannwerk , subject to change, and attendees are encouraged to confirm all information. 6:30-8:30 p.m.: Bottega Veneta and Showfloor, Kosmos 5 Voltairestrasse Invitations are required for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin shows. Vogue cocktail for KPM’s 250th 5-11 p.m.: Red Bull Bomb the anniversary, Wednesday, July 3 Line, International skateboarding SHOWS, EVENTS, FOR MORE CALENDAR EVENTS, SEE 59-60 Kurfürstendamm 9-11 a.m.: MCM Fashion Breakfast, contest, Bright, , PRESENTATIONS 7 p.m.: Julian Zigerli, MBFWB, Soho House, 1 Torstrasse 50 Potsdamer Strasse WWD.com (off-site) Cruise & Callas, 187-88 10 a.m.: Anja Gockel, Runway, MBFWB 5:30 p.m.: Vladimir Karalev, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin Köpenickerstrasse 10:30 a.m.: Issever Bahri, Stage, MBFWB Stage, MBFWB (MBFWB) venue is Strasse des 17. 7 p.m.: Elle Soirée Privée, French 11:30 a.m.: Blacky Dress, 5:30 p.m.: Simone Anes Juni unless otherwise indicated. Tuesday, July 2 Embassy, 5 Runway, MBFWB & Stephan Pelger, , 10 a.m.: Hien Le, Runway, MBFWB 7 p.m.: Franzius Studio opening, 11:30 a.m.: Press brunch, Das Stue, 1 Drakestrasse Showfloor Berlin Kosmos venue is 10:30 a.m.: Sissi Goetze, Stage, MBFWB 16 Schwarzkopfstrasse The Gallery, Opernwerkstätten, 6-8 p.m.: Tiger of Sweden opening, 131a Karl-Marx-Allee. 11:30 a.m.: Lena Hoschek, 7-9 p.m.: “Beer Here” Seek event, 9 Zinnowitzer Strasse Galleries Lafayette, 76-78 Runway, MBFWB Kühlhaus, 3 Luckenwalder Strasse Noon: Beate Heyman, Runway, Friedrichstrasse July 1 to July 7 1 p.m.: Rebekka Ruetz, 7:30 p.m.: Achtland, MBFWB, The Gallery, Opernwerkstätten, 6 p.m.: Julia Starp, Runway, Open daily, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.: Designers Runway, MBFWB (off-site) , 9 Zinnowitzer Strasse Showfloor, Kosmos & Artists at Projekt Galerie, 2 p.m.: SoPopular, Stage, MBFWB 3 Unten den Linden Noon-3 p.m.: S. Oliver Chinese 6 p.m.: Ewa Herzog, Lavera, installation by Miroike, YBDD 3 p.m.: Marc Stone, Runway, MBFWB 7:30 p.m.: Ellen Eisemann, Lunch, Residenz, 4 Pariser Platz Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, Gallery, 170 Torstrasse 3:30 p.m.: Salon Show, Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos 1 p.m.: Minx by Eva Lutz, 5 Voltairestrasse Greenshowroom (off-site) Adlon 8 p.m.: Kilian Kerner, Runway, MBFWB Runway, MBFWB 6-9 p.m.: Ursula Conzen 2, Monday, July 1 , 77 Unten den Linden 8:30 p.m.: Kiesel Stage, MBFWB 1-3 p.m.: Vogue Salon, presentation, Pauly Saal, 4 p.m.: Premium Young Designers 4:30 p.m.: Malaikaraiss, Runway, MBFWB 8:30 p.m.: Mykita 10-Year Dinner, Hotel de Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse 11-13 Auguststrasse Awards, F 95, 4-6 Luckenwalder Strasse 5 p.m.: Ivanman, Stage, MBFWB Mykita Haus, 153 Brunnenstrasse 1:30 p.m.: Augustin Teboul, Show 6:30 p.m.: Marcel Ostertag, 5-7 p.m.: 5 p.m.: Malaikaraiss after-show 9 p.m.: Blaenk, MBFWB, (off-site) Installation, MBFWB, (off-site), Runway, MBFWB Industry Foundation Cocktail, event, Pantry, 120 Friedrichstrasse Botschaft des Königreichs der Ho Berlin, 66 Holzmarktstrasse 7 p.m.: 7 p.m.: Kaviar Gauche, Hotel Brandenburger Hof, 6 p.m.: Riani, Runway, MBFWB Niederlande, 50 Klosterstrasse 2 p.m.: Franziska Michael, MBFWB (off-site) location to be 14 Eislebener Strasse 6 p.m.: Ansoho, Howl by Maria 9 p.m.: Universität der Künste Stage, MBFWB announced 6 p.m.: MBFWB Preview Show by Glück, Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos “Schau13” Runway, Admiralspalast, 2:30 p.m.: Humanity in Fashion 7 p.m.: Barbour International Grazia, MBFWB 6 p.m.: Deyk Dress for the Night 101 Friedrichstrasse Award by Hessnatur, Villa collection and event, Barbour, 7 p.m.: Official Bread & Butter presentation, Das Stue, 1 Drakestrasse 9 p.m.: August, Runway, Elisabeth, 3 Invalidenstrasse 39 Alte Schönhauser Strasse opening party, Sunset Park, 6:30 p.m.: Closed, collection preview Showfloor, Kosmos 3 p.m.: Dimitri, Runway, MBFWB 7:30 p.m.: Os Burgueses, 5 Platz der Luftbrücke & cocktail, 87 Potsdamer Strasse 9 p.m.: Clara Kaesdorf, 4-8 p.m.: Strenesse presentation, {Continued on page 8} Visit us at Bread&Butter – Booth A25

8 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

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he continued. “We also know it’s stress- designers] in a time when retailers have that nobody needs to have,” she also sug- Building Blocks ful for buyers to fit us into their calendars access to all the big names and the huge gested “fashion is not taken seriously in {Continued from page 6} with pre-collections and men’s going on at marketing apparatus·· behind them. We Germany” by investors or banks. on Berlin for spring, and Escada already the same time. But more relevant is that do have very informed customers who Premium cofounder and director Anita pulled out last January, saying shows they [retailers] lack a certain confidence are prepared to experiment, but that’s Tillmann’s strategy proposal for young de- in emerging markets took precedence. in pushing young German designers. They about 5 percent. The rest need the secu- signers is “to approach online stores first Boss is now eyeing a New York fall run- want to see international success, some rity of buying a well known label.” or create your own online community. You way debut under its new artistic director, sort of seal of approval first. We’ve been His advice: Take Italy’s MSGM as a have to be proactive, and to be an entre- Jason Wu, while Lange said it’s just sit- told it won’t work to hang us next to Céline model, and start in the midprice range preneur on an everyday basis.” ting out this season in light of the house’s or Givenchy at this stage. Consumers are and then work upward, not vice versa. “I’m a retailer, too,” she added. “It’s reorientation under new owners and too conservative. But at the same time we Leyla Piedayesh, who founded not enough to just send a catalogue. new designer Annick Gorman. get e-mails from consumers asking why we Lala Berlin in 2004, sells her knit- You have to make a real effort, keep When MBFWB kicked off in July don’t sell in Cologne or Frankfurt.” centric collection to some 60 to 80 calling and calling, and then maybe 2007, experts suggested its main role How to get around it? “We need to doors in Germany, plus retail custom- we’ll help you. If you want to be spe- would be as a photo op, and as the develop the collection in a way that at- cial, then act special. Every single day.” Web’s influence has spread, the event’s tracts international buyers and press. IMG, organizer of Mercedes-Benz runway photos have proved to be an ef- Berlin is a fantastic platform to launch Fashion Week Berlin, is also stepping up fective communications tool for design- a German brand, and there’s a lot of Retail has to move its efforts to help young designers face ers. As Jarrad Clark, global director of curiosity and support from the German their obstacles. The Stage, which can ac- productions, IMG Fashion Events and press. But it’s not quite there yet as forward, but we don’t commodate audiences of between 150 and Properties, pointed out, the show visuals an international platform,” Bentz 270, will replace The Studio in the main provide Web and social media content said. Achtland was one of 23 local col- know how to convince tent venue. Besides housing static presen- that have a lifespan long after the show. lections to participate in the Berlin tations, designers who don’t yet have the “It’s a way to communicate to buyers Senate-funded Berlin Showroom in financial means for a full-fledged show who may not have been in the tent and Paris last January, and will return to retailers to change. can take advantage of a shorter Stage run- to create new introductions,” he said, the City of Light with the spring col- — MAGDALENA SCHAFFRIN, way, IMG’s Clark explained. adding that when he travels, “Everyone lection. “Even German buyers come to IMG recently held its first designer talks about Berlin and there’s a real Paris to buy, as opposed to Berlin.” GREEN SHOWROOM workshop in Berlin, which is “a new part desire to know what’s happening. So “There are wonderful young German of our global strategy to work with design- while they may not always be attending designers,” said Klaus Ritzenhöfer, ers in Austria, Switzerland and now ers 12 months a year,” he reported. “And [the shows], they’re always watching.” founder and co-owner of Cologne’s de- Denmark. She also has a Lala store in not only regarding the local market, but to At least that’s what Thomas Bentz, signer-studded concept store Apropos, Berlin, which opened in 2006, and the help them get traction internationally. We managing director of Achtland, is bank- which will open a fifth door in Hamburg label’s online shop. The line has sales have offices in six countries, we can intro- ing on. After three seasons of doing a in August. The store has featured de- agents in Milan, Paris and Copenhagen duce them to other trade fairs and events, private showroom in Hotel de Rome, signers like Dawid Tomaszewski and and a new showroom in Benelux. help them evaluate, for example, if they the Berlin-based label, which won the Kilian Kerner in its Düsseldorf store These are commercial milestones that have the right p.r. to enter a new market.” German luxury association Meisterkreis’ windows during market week to help labels with a shorter history in busi- At the same time, he pointed out, “Zukunftsmeister,” or Future Master, give them more domestic exposure. ness are still struggling to achieve. designers don’t necessarily have to award, is staging its first runway show in “I admire the consistency of their vi- Her background might·· have helped, leave their homelands to broaden their Berlin in July. “We think it’s important to sion and their passion, but those who’ve she noted, having taken an international reach. “They can spread their wings show the clothes in a less static way,” Bentz had more success, like Lala Berlin or business versus a fashion degree. And with e-commerce without leaving their said, “and to get the pictures up. Runway Kilian Kerner, have learned to be some- while she admonishes many German de- own backyards. Or, if they open a new pictures fare better in the online world. what more commercial. In the high end, signer collections for being “far too high- shop, they can reach a half a million We know retailers are watching us,” it’s really difficult [to feature unknown priced or doing things, even if beautiful, followers via our social network.”

Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos Presentation, Hotel Waldorf Runway, MBFWB Location: Station-Berlin, 4-6 Location: Ewerk, 7:30 p.m.: Bhana, Lavera, Astoria, 28 Hardenbergstrasse 10:30 a.m.: Vonschwanenflügelpupke, Luckenwalderstrasse 43 Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 4-7 p.m.: Luxodo fashion cocktail, Stage, MBFWB July 2-4: Seek, progressive July 2-4: Curvy is Sexy, 5 Voltairestrasse Hotel De Rome, 37 Behrenstrasse 11:30 a.m.: Anne Gorke, Runway, MBFWB fashion trade show plus-size trade show 8 p.m.: Guido Maria Kretschmer, 4:30 p.m.: Marc Cain, Runway, MBFWB 1 p.m.: Umasan, Runway, MBFWB Web: seekexhibitions.com Web: curvyissexy.com Runway, MBFWB 5 p.m.: Isabell de Hillerin, 2 p.m.: Asli Filinta, Stage, MBFWB Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511 Tel.: +49-89-6939-6394 8 p.m.-4 a.m.: Bright official Stage, MBFWB 3 p.m.: Glaw, Runway, MBFWB Location: Kühlhaus, Location: Deutsche Telekom, opening party, Mvschi Kreuzberg, 5-8 p.m.: Hugo Boss collection 4 p.m.: Soós, Lavera, 3 Luckenwalderstrasse 33 Französische Strasse 2 Vor dem Schlesischen Tor preview BBQ, 10 Stralauer Allee Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 8:30 p.m.: Blush by Cointreau, 5:30 p.m.: Charini, Lavera, 5 Voltairestrasse July 2-4: The Gallery, fashion July 2-3: Capsule, Runway and after-show event, Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 4:30 p.m.: Ece Gozen, Nazli Bozdag, designer and avant-garde trade show contemporary fashion fair 3 Schwestern, 2 Mariannenplatz 5 Voltairestrasse Nevra Karaca No.7, Runway, MBFWB Web: the-gallery-berlin.com Web: capsuleshow.com 9 p.m.: Patrick Mohr, MBFWB, 6 p.m.: David Tomaszewski, 5 p.m.: EP_Anoui by Eva Tel.: +49-211-4396-385 Tel.: 212-206-8310 (off-site), Modehaus Jandorf, Runway, MBFWB Poleschinski, Stage, MBFWB Location: Opernwerkstätten, Location: Postbahnhof, 19-21 Brunnenstrasse 6 p.m.: Johanna Riplinger, 5:30 p.m.: Milde, Lavera, 9 Zinnowitzer Strasse 8 Strasse der Pariser Kommune 9 p.m.: V!tor, Runway, Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 5 Showfloor, Kosmos 7 p.m.: Lala Berlin, MBFWB, Voltairestrasse July 2-4: Panorama, July 2-5: Mercedes-Benz 9 p.m.: Ada Zanditon, Lavera, (off-site) Opernwerkstätten, 6 p.m.: Miranda Konstantinidou, international fashion fair Fashion Week Berlin, Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 9 Zinnowitzer Strasse Runway, MBFWB Web: panorama-berlin.com designer runway collections. 5 Voltairestrasse 7 p.m.: Adddress, Lavera, 7 p.m.: Jasmin Erbas, Lavera, Tel.: +49-30-2088-91340 Organizer: IMG, 35 9 p.m.: Mercedes-Benz & Vogue Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 5 Location: Berlin Expo Center Invalidenstrasse, Berlin Fashion Night, Borchardt, 5 Voltairestrasse Voltairestrasse Airport, 1 Messestrasse Web: mercedes-benzfashionweek.com 47 Französische Strasse 7-11 p.m.: Bright Shipwreck 7 p.m.: DYI skatepark bbq & Tel.: +49-30-8892-2890 9:30 p.m.: HTW Berlin, Runway, international skateboarding party, Bright, Karter Holzig, 23 July 2-4: Showfloor Berlin, Location: Strasse des 17. MBFWB contest, MTV Headquarters, Michaelkirchplatz sustainable fashion shows Juni at Brandenburger Tor 10:30 p.m.: Dino Alves, Runway, 6 Stralauer Allee 7:30 p.m.: Moga E Mago, Runway, Web: showfloor-berlin.com Showfloor, Kosmos 7:30 p.m.: Göttin des Glücks, MBFWB Tel.: +49-51-039-3910 July 3-5: Bright, 10:30 p.m.: Prototype. Runway, Showfloor, Kosmos 8:30 p.m.: Lavera Trend Show, Location: Kosmos, fashion trade show for sportswear, Schumacher, Lavera, 8 p.m.: Irene Luft, Runway, MBFWB Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 5 131a Karl-Marx-Allee skateboard apparel, streetwear. Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, 8-11 p.m.: Oukan presents Voltairestrasse Web: brighttradeshow.com 5 Voltairestrasse L’Officiel Homme event, 71 9 p.m.: Michalsky Stylenite, July 2-4: Show & Order, fashion trade Tel.: +49-69-6696-2157. 11p.m.: Bread & Butter Upper Kronenstrasse Tempodrom, show for men’s and women’s brands Location: Alte Münze, 2 Am Krögel Street party, The Chalet, 8:30 p.m.: Secret PAL, Lavera, 10 Möckernstrasse Web: showandorder.de 3 Schlesisches Tor Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, Tel.: +49-30-4305-2606 July 3-5: White Label, 5 Voltairestrasse Location: Kraftwerk-Berlin, International sourcing fair, Thursday, July 4 9 p.m.: Somyso, Runway, TRADE FAIRS 70 Köpenicker Strasse women’s wear, men’s wear, 10 a.m.: Schumacher, Runway, MBFWB Showfloor, Kosmos July 2-4: Bread & Butter, denim, July 2-4:, Greenshowroom, luxury children’s wear and accessories 10:30 a.m.: MBFWB Press 10 p.m.: Renatta Pruneda, Lavera, sportswear, streetwear trade show sustainable fashion trade fair Web: whitelabelfair.com Vernissage, Stage, MBFWB Umspannwerk Alexanderplatz, Web: breadandbutter.com Web: green-showroom.net Tel.: +49-30-2408-76114 11:30 a.m.: Satu Maaranen, (MB & 5 Voltairestrasse Tel.: +49-30-200-0370 Tel.:+49-69-7575-5855 Location: U3-Bahnhof & Tunnel, Elle) Runway, MBFWB 10 p.m.: GQ Fashion Cocktail, Location: Airport Berlin Location: , 1 1 p.m.: Laurel, Runway, MBFWB Das Stue, 1 Drakestrasse Tempelhof, 5 Platz der Luftbrücke 77 2 p.m.: Dietrich Emter, Stage, MBFWB 10:30 p.m.: Dandie Zimmermann, July 4-5: Herzblut, alternative 3 p.m.: Holy Ghost, Runway, MBFWB Aline Celi, P|age, Runway, July 2-4: Premium, women’s July 2-4: Ethical Fashion Show, urban fashion trade fair 3:30 p.m.: Perret Schaad, MBFWB, Showfloor, Kosmos and men’s fashion sustainable fashion trade fair. Web: herzblut-messe.com (off-site) Location to be announced Friday, July 5 Web: premiumexhibitions.com Web: ethicalfashionshowberlin.com Location: Stephanuskirche, 4 p.m.: S.T. DuPont Karl Lagerfeld 10 a.m.: Michael Sontag, Tel.: +49-30-2088-91330. Tel.: +49-69-7575-5855 39/40 Prinzenallee

10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

SECTION II FOR MORE, SEE WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW WWD.com/ fashion-news. The Icing on the Küchen An Ina Beissner necklace.

A Svenja John collar.

From latex to leather to lace, Berlin’s growing accessories market is up for the challenge of providing the finishing fashion touch — Jewelry from whether it’s fierce or fancy. Très Bonjour.

Here’s a look at some of the Kuboraum sunglasses. TONY FEDERICO BY CAMILLA CAMAGLIA;TRES BONJOUR PHOTO BY KUBORAUM established and emerging Kuboraum will officially open its travel collection created with Brazilian TRÈS BONJOUR accessory designers who Berlin showroom in a July 4 event in designer Mayta Leal. Viola Jaeger and Sandra Dresp call are making their mark in collaboration with Japanese avant- their designs “Latex Couture.” Their garde brand Julius, which will show Abury Showroom customers just call them sexy. Berlin and beyond, including select items from its spring men’s wear 42 Kastanienallee, The team started with a line of lin- a couple with new flagships collection paired with Kuboraum’s 10119 (Prenzlauer Berg) gerie, and now have a full house of ac- LTD For Julius eyewear. Hours: Monday to Saturday, cessories, from necklaces and bracelets in town. By Susan Stone 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. to collars, headpieces to high-heel jew- Kuboraum Headquarters & Store E-mail: [email protected] elry, as well as gloves and bags. More SVENJA JOHN 9 Köpenicker Strasse, 10179 (Kreuzberg) Web: abury.net fine than fetish, Très Bonjour’s pieces These days, 3-D printing is all the rage, Tel.: +49-30-2236-7549 can be surprisingly delicate. The laser- but the technology is quite familiar for Hours: Monday to Saturday, 2 to 8 p.m. INA BEISSNER cut latex becomes lacy and filigree, and jewelry designer Svenja John, who cel- E-mail: [email protected] Peruvian-born, Berlin-raised designer while shiny black is in abundance, gra- ebrated her 20th anniversary in busi- Web: kuboraum.com Ina Beissner’s finely crafted sterling dient rose and purple lean toward the ness last summer. Her intricate, inter- silver and gold-plated pieces based on chic side, while paint-splatter polka locking works are made from industrial ABURY shells, bells, and bows are delicate, but dots add a playful tone. plastic and sell for hundreds to thou- Those with a love for ethno-chic can never overly cute. Newer collections Prices start at 69 euros ($92) for short sands of euros, mostly in and to mu- seek out Abury’s freshly opened show- swing a bit tougher, with thick chains bow-bedecked gloves, necklaces are 89 seums — and can be found at Berlin’s room in Prenzlauer Berg. Social en- and stiff trompe-l’oeil ribbons adding to 249 euros ($119 to $332), and bags run Oona Gallery. trepreneur Andrea Kolb’s brand sells humor to the mix. from 280 euros ($373) for a clutch to 390 Her 3-D-printed polymer rings are a combination of vintage Berber bags After studying in euros ($520) for a large shopper. like succulent snowflakes, the brace- and new leather wares embroidered Berlin, jewelry design in Milan and lets resemble alien licorice. In brooch- with traditional patterns. They’re made stints with Proenza Schouler and Très Bonjour Showroom Berlin es and bags or necklaces and earrings, in and around Marrakech as part of Spanish Vogue, Beissner launched her 3 Torstrasse, 10119 (Mitte) clustered linked forms cut from thin Abury’s collaborative training scheme collection in 2011. Tel.: +49-30-2280-3180 Makrofol polycarbonate film seem to to bring back almost-forgotten handi- Beissner’s quirky-pretty designs Hours: Monday to Saturday, cite complex crystals, or otherworldly craft techniques. Also on offer is an are produced in Germany and sold on- noon to 8 p.m. exoskeletons. assortment of Kilim boots that merge line and in a range of stores including E-mail: [email protected] Oona Gallery for Contemporary Jewelry handwoven rugs and smooth leather. Colette in Paris, Departmentstore 206 Web: tresbonjour.com 26 Auguststrasse, 10117 (Mitte) Abury’s vintage bags are priced in Berlin and Storm in Copenhagen. Tel.: +49-30-2804-5905 from 190 to 440 euros ($253 to $587), Prices start at 199 to 329 euros ($265 to CELIACZERLINSKI Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 2 to 6 p.m.; embroidered iPad cases at 249 euros $439) for silver rings and run up to 2,209 Celia Czerlinski’s luxury line of statement Saturday, 1 to 6 p.m. and ($332), clutches at 190 euros ($253), euros ($2,947) for a complex gold-plated bags, launched in 2010, is hand-sewn by appointment. iPhone cases at 69 euros ($92) and multibell — but jingle-free — necklace. and mostly quilted, merging high qual- Web: svenja-john.de Kilim boots at 189 euros ($252). Items Tel: +49-30-8937-8495 ity leather and unusual design elements. Email: [email protected] Brushed metal rings, handles and studs KUBORAUM Web: www.inabeissner.com lend subtle toughness to the ladylike tone. Berlin-based Italian designer Livio Like many of her fellow students Graziottin prefers to call his bold, geo- An Abury bag. from the Berlin-Weissensee Academy metric black-framed glasses and sun- of Arts, Czerlinski is drawn to genteel glasses “masks,” and designs with the geometries. One bag is formed entirely motto “Dreamed in Berlin, handmade from a series of circles, while other in Italy.” models spin off triangles and squares. Launched in February 2012, Surprising shades like lilac, grape and Kuboraum picked up the accessories A bag from Celia wintergreen pop alongside refined nod at that summer’s Premium Young Czerlinski’s black and winter white, and belts tri- Designers Awards. He has since kept Cube line. ple-wrap or cinch with peplums. up the momentum, forging into opti- Her newest collection, Cube, is coat- cal shops and boutiques throughout ed leather in black-on-black check print Europe, Asia and the U.S. — and includes four simple but elegant The brand’s strong shapes are matte totes and a men’s messenger bag. Cube finish or burnt by hand for a rough ef- by CeliaCzerlinski is her first foray into fect. Double frames make a spectacle the midprice segment, with bags selling by merging two styles — one classic, between 150 and 275 euros ($200 and one edgy — in a single pair. $367). In Czerlinski’s luxury line, clutch- Prices for the main range run from es start at 325 euros ($434) and small 250 to 330 euros ($333 to $440), with are sold throughout Germany at small shoulder bags at 550 euros ($734), while unique limited-edition pieces, includ- boutiques, a door in Italy and one in large bags are priced up to 2,500 euros ing some featuring 24-karat gold de- Zurich, as well as ABC Carpet & Home ($3,335) at select boutiques in Germany, tails and lenses finished with 18-karat in New York. including Berlin’s Oukan. gold, selling for 360 to 2,000 euros During Mercedes-Benz Fashion E-mail: [email protected] ($480 to $2,668). Week Berlin, Abury will introduce a Web: celiaczerlinski.com

12 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013 SECTION II

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW

of leather combined with silk Maria Poweleit chiffon, as well as jackets, pants and Jesko Wilke and skirts laced up in form-fitting Ones to Watch silhouettes — like corsets. Glaw’s spring palette revolves around Four fresh collections at Berlin Fashion Week. rose, gray, taupe, white and shades of pastel pink in silk, as well as GLAW: TWO PEAS IN A POD Wilke, a native Berliner, always dip-dyed leather and metallic The Glaw design team’s ate- had an interest in art, music and leather in these same soft colors. lier is located in an historic dance, he said. He attended the “The crystals are a big part building that was once part Berlin State School of Ballet and of our collection this season in of a Stasi prison in Berlin then worked at the Komische terms of colors and patterns. Hohenschönhausen. Deeply as- Oper Berlin, first dancing and We use metallic leather and sociated with the GDR’s system then making costumes while shiny beads to underscore the of political and artistic oppres- Poweleit went to New York for a crystal theme,” said Poweleit, sion, this building — where de- fashion design internship. Their adding that the juxtaposition of tainees were questioned and paths came together at Esmod in the strong and clear shapes of tortured in the basement — now Berlin, and they began planning crystals and the softness of silk houses artist and photographer their fashion company in their is an important style element. studios and design offices. third year of study. Upon graduat- Of special note are Glaw’s “Our work space has a bad ing in 2011, they launched Glaw. skirts, jackets and pants made history and sometimes it seems Glaw means “rain” in Welsh in Germany of supple, crinkled like a strange place. But the op- and it is a word that inspired leather. Retail prices for dresses portunity to work in such an im- these designers to start their “ac- start at 250 euros ($330). Leather portant location and to be part of cessible luxury” label for women. pieces range from 500 to 900 the change was very significant “Glaw was the perfect name euros (about $660 to $1,190). for us,” said Maria Poweleit, because our tie-dyed leather Glaw is marked by the design- who, together with Jesko Wilke, and tie-dyed silk pieces look as ers’ distinct personalities and their codirects and designs the Berlin if they were washed by rain,” similar passion for life, art and de- fashion label Glaw. “We were said Poweleit. Taking an in- sign. The creative duo was at the both born in the GDR and even novative yet refined approach, Beyoncé concert the night before, if we were very young, we still each well-crafted piece dis- soaking up the energy. “We love remember what it felt like dur- plays a soft touch, with textures to travel and discover new plac- ing this dark period of East used in a light-handed manner. es,” Poweleit said. “We love the Germany. We can remember the Spring represents their fourth same music and watch ‘Absolutely liberating feelings when the wall collection. It will be presented Fabulous’ together. Sometimes we came down in 1989, and for us, on the runway for the first time start singing in our atelier…which this place is meaningful.” in a show at Mercedes-Benz sounds strange and hilarious. At Poweleit grew up in Dresden Fashion Week Berlin this season. the end of the day, we often lay and was interested in fashion Highlights include crystals and under our desks laughing.”

design since the age of seven. Jane Birkin-inspired looks made HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY ALL ONES TO WATCH — NORMA QUINTO WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013 13 WWD.COM

REALITY STUDIO: a commonality, Specht points and salmon red. Light silks offer the key point to each collection. who are known for their hand- ELEGANT OPPOSITIONS out, is a tendency toward clean transparency. Fabric variety, Lyon-based textile artists painted and collaged silk The aesthetic designer Svenja lines and severity or austerity noted Specht, always provides Milleneufcentquatrevingtquatre scarves, are collaborating with Specht imparts to her label, — Strenge, in German. her inspiration, and serves as (which means “1984” in French), Specht on a custom-print fabric Reality Studio, is one of duality — “It depends what you identi- for the collection. masculine and feminine, sporty fy as a German style — maybe if Branching into footwear for and elegant, East and West. you see, for example, Marlene Svenja Specht spring 2013 brought Specht a “I like to break things,” she Dietrich as a masculine/femi- new challenge — and extra at- explained. “If it’s very Asian, I nine woman who has a kind tention. Her innovative cork think ‘What could I put in, what of elegance — but this kind and leather platform clogs, breaks it a bit and makes it of Strenge also fits my style, I mules and boots became blog- look like a western suit?’ Or the think,” said Specht. ger favorites, and added stores material is very western but Specht’s loosely androgynous to her developing stockist list. the shape is very Asian. I like vision also attracts the opposite In the fall line, pony hair flats this kind of play.” sex. “It is actually a women’s and boots melded sporty and Specht, who grew up near wear collection, but I know that stylish, while spring 2014 adds Stuttgart, attended fashion I also sell it to men in Japan,” canvas and silk to the mix. school, then trained in product she said. “Men ask me ‘When Reality Studio’s clothes are design and worked in graphic will you do Reality Studio men’s produced in Europe. Prices design. Her eclectic back- wear?’ I don’t have the manpow- for blouses start at 165 euros ground and love of a challenge er or financial power to do it at ($219), trousers and skirts at 200 inform her aesthetic, as does the moment, but I could imag- euros ($265), dresses 275 ($365), the formative years she spent ine it some day.” and coats 360 ($477); shoes are living and working in Beijing. Previous Reality Studio sea- priced at 230 euros ($305) and After returning to Germany, sons have referenced lace and boots at 280 euros ($371). she decided to reboot. Her re- embroidery from the north of The brand is sold in bou- training started by working Portugal, Oriental rugs, and tiques in Europe, Japan and for a mass fashion retailer in Inuit to ikat prints. This sea- China. Specht said interest Germany, and also in Paris as son’s collection springboards is growing in the U.S., where a designer, buyer and trend from Paul Schrader’s 1985 Reality Studio is carried at scout. Reality Studio launched film “Mishima,” an unsettling Henrik Vibskov and Assembly in 2005, and was soon picked but beautiful work that tells boutiques in New York, up by a Japanese agency. the story of the celebrated Portland’s Stand Up Comedy, Her line — with its easy- Japanese author. and Weltenbuerger in Los to-wear layers, drapes and Looks clearly reference Asia, Angeles, among others. wraps — has had global appeal, said Specht. For example, frog Reality Studio will show at thanks to garments that bor- closures are interpreted in a Premium for the first time this row ethnic patterns or cuts, but modern way, colors go light and season, presented by Wald, its blend them with modern, un- bright — cream, denim blue new Copenhagen-based agency. expected fabrics. What Asian linen, orange-nude jersey and — SUSAN STONE and German design can have as gray knit, joined by intense curry {Continued on page 14} 14 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 25, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD BERLIN PREVIEW he was EDP administrator for one hand, and the uniforms of Ones to Watch the University of Architecture in the New York Stock Exchange Aachen from 2004 to 2007. on the other. Though his runway {Continued from page 13} While Mandzukic says he collection shows a lot of skin, es- “wouldn’t be a designer if there pecially those bare backs, with IVANMAN: “A TIME OF TRANSITION” was no architecture around,” the exception of that little fluffy When it comes to timing, Ivan his love of architectural details, sweater, his pink, khaki, black Mandzukic is definitely ahead proportions and shapes driving and white runway lineup strikes of the game. While most of his vision, his next step was to a clean and clearly masculine — his young designer peers volunteer as a costume design- albeit metrosexual — note. were scrambling to get their er for Berlin’s Staatsoper. He And then there’s the primar- samples finished for Berlin then enrolled at Esmod intend- ily black commercial assortment Fashion Week, his spring ing to continue his costuming — where Mandzukic takes a bi- Ivanman collection was al- efforts. “I thought, fashion? No polar approach. Tired of retail- ready complete. He even had a way. But Silvia [Kadolsky, the ers telling him his more forward full lineup of photos on hand. school’s codirector] convinced looks wouldn’t work, he said he Everything seems to be me otherwise,” he smiled. also realized “that if I worked neatly in its place in his ate- His latest personal battle of too classically and purely for lier in a former architectural persuasion concerns pink. “I the market, it would make me office facing the river in kept wondering, can I do pink? unhappy. So I separate it.” Each Kreuzberg. He cleaned up for And finally, I said yes. It de- season, he searches for two sig- the appointment, he admitted, pends on how you use it.” nature details, which he can though he added he can’t work For spring, that means pleat- then interpret more commercial- in chaos. As for his early-bird ed shorts worn with a matching ly. For example, spring’s inset tactics, chalk that up to his plastron-shaped vest tailored stripes show up on inner pockets Croatian roots. Having partici- in pale pink wool, sporting a or in more tone-on-tone varia- pated in Cro à Porter in Zagreb completely cut-out back with tions, while the bare backs are in April, “there was so little pink and khaki taping to hold reinterpreted as a mesh inset on time in between, I got summer the item in place. He also offers the back of a blouson or shirt. done three months in advance.” clean low-rise slims paired with The 40-piece collection re- Mandzukic founded the a pink cotton shirt with a linear tails between 120 and 500 euros men’s wear label Ivanman in tone-on-tone bib, and rectangu- (about $158 to $660 at current ex- 2010, shortly after graduating lar inset stripes on the sleeves change) and is carried by Berlin from Esmod in Berlin, where in khaki and white. For some concept store M, Wald, and he took the first prize for “best gender-blending, baggy pleated Supermarket Belgrad, which is men’s wear patternmaking/drap- trousers with a dropped crotch slated to open a Berlin door in ing.” In 2012, Who’s Next named are worn with a little puffed- Bikini Haus next year. Ivanman Ivanman “best men’s prêt-a- sleeved angora sweater. will be making his MBFWB tent porter” collection. However, The collection, he said, “is debut with a presentation in The Mandzukic’s first career path inspired by the reflection of the Stage, and the collection will was getting a computer science present — a time of transition.” also be on view in M’s showroom degree in his homeland in the He tapped the aesthetic and Ivan Mandzukic during fashion week. former Yugoslavia, after which colors of “La Grande Bouffe” on — MELISSA DRIER

KSUS: THE RIGHT FOUNDATIONS trend — a sheer ice-blue silk camisole Katja Werling’s segue from a career in with a racer back and dove-gray silk Supporting great architecture to one as a fashion design- runner’s shorts — are more suitable for British design er was a natural progression, she says. nights out in Berlin’s techno clubs than talent Her homegrown women’s wear label, the running track. which started out as a hobby, is now Werling runs the entire operation her main focus. She produced her first alone from her apartment on Berlin’s full Ksus collection in summer 2011. former east side. “The label has devel- “When you are working on an ar- oped as I go along and certain details Brits chitectural design, you have to extract are reinterpreted for different seasons, a silhouette,” Werling explained, “and such as a silk cummerbund waist on top IN BERLIN this is similar to designing clothes. I was of a pair of pants for winter and then always interested in fashion and making topping off some black summer shorts.” clothes for myself on the side. My label The offer also includes some multifunc- is now just an extension of that.” tional items, such as a microfiber parka Pepe Jeans Penrose London BREAD & ETHICAL Werling originates from the south of with an elasticated waist “that can be BUTTER Playful Promises FASHION SHOW Prey of London 2 – 4 July 2013 Pop Boutique 2 – 4 July 2013 Star Mela Germany, near Ludwigshafen, but began worn as a dress or a summer coat.” Airport Berlin Tempelhof Quba Sails Ewerk Swear London her studies in architecture in Florence Prices for Ksus start at 189 euros Platz der Luftbrücke Superdry Wilhem Str. 43 Tateossian London at the Università degli Studi di Firenze. ($249) for silk shorts, a loose jersey dress Alexander Leathers Swami’s Bibico Teija sells for 249 euros ($329) and blazers are The Ragged Priest United Nude “It is what many Italians do before Barbour Braintree they become fashion designers — get around 399 euros ($526). Leather items Ben Sherman The Real McCoy’s Komodo Boxfresh Tricker’s Talented Totes SEEK a good basis for learning about how include a leather-wool jacket for 599 Chunk Trollied Dolly 2 – 4 July 2013 to draw and expand ideas, so it was euros ($790), a leather corsage strapless Clarks Originals Underground PANORAMA Kühlhaus perfect for me.” After years of work- top for 399 euros ($526) and leather-wool Voi Jeans Clarks Sportswear 2 – 4 July 2013 Luckenwalder Str. 3 ing as an architect in Florence and mix coats retail for 589 euros ($777). Weekend Offender AMH Ashley Marc Hovelle Criminal Damage Berlin ExpoCenter Rome, she is settled in Berlin, where Werling will show her spring collec- Croots Yumi Blood Brother Airport tion as part of the Collect Showroom at Cuckoo’s Nest Arrogant Cat Common People she founded her label three years ago. BRIGHT Dr Martens Ksus is an abbreviation of her first Capsule during Berlin fashion week. Cutie London 3 – 5 July 2013 Darling Darling Fly 53 Folk and middle names, Katja Susanne. — JESSICA SALTZ Dr Martens Alte Münze Nour London Hentsch Man Am Krogel 2 Illustrated People Werling said it was “easier to start Duck & Cover a fashion label in Berlin than in Italy.” Fever London Addict PREMIUM Kidda Christopher Shannon Frank Wright Hype 2 – 4 July 2013 Lyle & Scott Moreover, the aesthetic of her women’s King Apparel Natural Selection Denim Fred Perry Station Berlin brand is more influenced by the mini- Trainerspotter Orlebar Brown French Connection Luckenwalder Str. 4-6 malist sartorial structure and palette Sunspel Glamorous Alan Paine CAPSULE Universal Works popular in the German capital than by Gloverall Alex Monroe 2– 3 July 2013 YMC her time in Italy. Black woolen coats Gola Classics Almost Famous Juju Shoes Postbahnhof Bottletop and jackets with contrasting leather Little Mistress Strasse der Pariser SHOW & ORDER sleeves are some of the more popular Chess London 2 – 4 July 2013 Louche Kommune 8 Delusion items featured in her recent fall col- Lyle & Scott Allevol En Shallah Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte Native Youth Collective Noun Köpernicker Str. 70 lection, as are slinky monotone jersey Gabicci Vintage frocks that can be dressed up or down. Nigel Cabourn Guild of Labour Harris Wharf London Azuni Pantherella Lazy Oaf Johnstons of Elgin Cashmere by Tania For spring, she has stuck to a limited Pearly King Maharishi Kat & Bee Jewellery Juliet Dunn palette of black and white, plus a soft Supreme Being Muuba Lucas Jack cream and a cool ice blue. Highlights New Scotland include a tailored white cotton suit with a fitted lapel-less blazer that closes with a single white pearl button, matched email [email protected] with masculine white cotton pants. tel. +44 (0)20 7843 9460 There are softer, more feminine looks Katja www.ukft.org like a tiered chiffon strapless silk top, Werling while her take on the active sportswear COPENHAGEN INTERNATIONAL FASHION FAIR

PRESENTING SPRING / SUMMER 14 8 – 11 August 2013 Bella Center, Copenhagen

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