& Inspired Stamped,by Rochelle NationWired
get great joy from creating mixed-media jewelry pieces. It’s so much fun to mix metals, gemstones, materials, and techniques to create a unique piece of wearable art. I am helplessly addicted to stamping with solder. It’s such an exciting and organic process — no two pieces ever turn out the same, which adds to the thrill. The resulting stamped texture makes such an interesting effect on metal. I also relish the fact that if you’re unhappy with what you’ve created, you can simply re-flow the solder and stamp again. IWire is my go-to medium of choice when I need a component to tie a design together. It’s really amazing what you can design with plain round wire and a few hand tools. The versatility of wire allows you to create components, clasps, and elements, all of which add interest and enhance the beauty of completed jewelry creations. This inspired statement necklace came to life after seeing the work of Staci Louise Smith in the Winter 2017 Issue of Belle Armoire Jewelry. Her beautiful polymer clay art spoke to me. I love creating pieces that look and feel rustic as if they have a story to tell. This piece looks like something you might find in a salvage yard. It’s very sculptural and industrial, yet soft and feminine due to the vintage ribbon. ➻ I absolutely love wearing this piece … I feel like I’m a walking art show!
• Beads: labradorite; round • JumpSupplies rings • Sanding block smokey quartz; crystal • Liver of sulfur • Sandpaper • Bench block & pad • Metal file • Shape template: oval • Brass stamping: oval • Nail • Shears • Chain: gunmetal; rhinestone • Patina: (Novacan); • Sheet metal: copper, • Cloth (Ranger - Vintaj) 20- & 24-ga. • Dapping block & punch: • Paintbrush • Soap: liquid (Pepe) • Permanent marker: • Solder: lead-free • Disc cutter: Pepe (Sharpie) • Steel wool • Fire brick • Plastic bowl • Toothbrush • Flush cutters: heavy-duty • Pliers: chain-nosed; round- • Torch nosed; mandrel (Wubbers) • Flux: (Classic 100 Gel Flux) • Vintage: ribbon • Ring mandrel • Hammer: ball-peen; texture; • Vise plastic mallet; brass • Rubber stamp • Wire: copper, 12-, 14-, • Hole punch • Ruler 16- & 20-ga.
Jewelry ◆ Spring 2018 102 103 bellearmoirejewelry.com ◆ Jewelry 4. Flush-cut two pieces of 14-gauge wire to the desired length, texture with a hammer, and file the ends smooth. Flush-cut 16-gauge wire and wrap around the two 14-gauge decorative accent wires to create the bail. Flush-cut 20-gauge wire and thread the ends through the loops of the stamped pendant. Wrap wire around the 14-gauge and 16-gauge 4. Secure the ring mandrel in the vise and begin decorative wire to secure in place. hammering one side of the stamped oval with a plastic mallet to shape the ring. Repeat the 5. Thread 16-gauge wire through each gemstone bead, process on the other side of the oval ring. Form make two simple loops, and cut off the excess wire. the ring band by hammering it around the 6. Flush-cut 16-gauge wire and create two coiled ring mandrel. wire connectors using mandrel pliers. Flush-cut 5. Coat the stamped oval ring shape with Vintaj 14-gauge wire and create a simple hook clasp using patina and let dry. Sand off excess patina on mandrel pliers. Stamped Ring the raised areas with sandpaper. Brush Novacan 1.Technique Trace the desired ring shape and band onto a patina all over the ring shape and band. Once 7. Dip all copper components and jump rings in mixed 20-gauge copper sheet, and cut with shears. the desired color has been achieved, rinse with liver of sulfur solution. Once the desired color is Using a bench block and pad, flatten the metal water and dry with a cloth. achieved, rinse with water and let dry. with a plastic mallet. File and sand any rough Wired Necklace 8. Using chain-nosed pliers, connect the pendant, edges. Using a texture hammer, texture the back of the sheet metal. 1. File and sand any rough edges of the brass wired gemstones, connectors, chain, and clasp stamping. Place the brass stamping on a fire together with jump rings. 2. Place the copper ring shape on a fire brick and brick and coat with flux. Heat the brass with Inspired Necklace coat with flux. Heat the copper with a torch a torch and flow solder over the entire piece. and flow solder over the entire piece. While 1. Trace the desired shape onto a 24-gauge copper While the solder is molten, carefully press a solder is molten, carefully press a rubber stamp sheet metal, and cut the shape with shears. Using rubber stamp into the solder. Allow the piece to into the solder. Allow to cool, quench in water, a bench block and pad, flatten metal with a plastic cool, quench in water, and clean with a cloth. and then clean thoroughly with soapy water mallet. File and sand any rough edges. Using a and a toothbrush. Repeat the process with the 2. Brush flux onto the back of a rhinestone and disc cutter and brass hammer, punch circles into copper ring band, but omit stamping with a place near the edge on the brass stamping. Focus the 24-gauge copper. Using a dapping block and rubber stamp. the flame directly on the rhinestone to melt the dapping punches, dap out circles. 3. Punch a hole in one end of the ring band. solder. Allow to cool and quench in water. Clean 2. Place the copper piece on a fire brick and coat with Punch a second hole on the edge of the oval thoroughly with soapy water and a toothbrush. ring shape. Secure the pieces together with a flux. Heat the copper with a torch and flow solder nail. Cut the nail with heavy-duty flush cutters 3. Brush the front and back of the stamped over the entire piece. Allow the piece to cool, and and rivet together using a ball-peen hammer pendant with Novacan patina. Once the desired quench in water. Clean thoroughly with soapy water ➻ on a bench block and pad. color is achieved, rinse with water and let dry. and a toothbrush.
Jewelry ◆ Spring 2018 104 105 bellearmoirejewelry.com ◆ Jewelry 3. Lay the copper piece on a bench block and pad, 8. Using 16-gauge copper wire and mandrel pliers, and add texture with the round end of a ball- wire-wrap the crystal accent bead. Flush-cut the peen hammer. desired length of 14-gauge copper wire and make a simple loop on each end using the tip of round- 4. Brush the front and back of the copper pendant nosed pliers. Using mandrel pliers, wrap each end to with Novacan patina. Once the desired color is create an S-clasp. achieved, rinse with water and let dry. 9. Brush the copper wire components, jump rings, 5. Using 16-gauge copper wire and mandrel pliers, and 20-gauge copper with prepared liver of sulfur wrap the wire through and around one of the circle solution. Rinse with water and let dry. Use steel openings in the pendant to create a wired bail. wool to remove excess patina as desired. Flush-cut 12-gauge copper wire to the desired length, texture with a hammer, and file the ends 10. Attach the accent chain and wire-wrapped crystal smooth. Slide the 12-gauge copper wire through to the bottom of the pendant with jump rings. Use the wired bail on the pendant. Use 16-gauge copper 20-gauge copper wire to attach the vintage ribbon wire to secure the wired bail in place by wrapping to the wired component and to jump rings. Attach the wire on each side of the bail. Use mandrel pliers the S-clasp to jump rings. to create a second bail. 6. Using 14-gauge copper wire and mandrel pliers, create a multi-wired component to hang the pendant from. Bend the wired component into a • If you are unhappy with your first attempt at U-shape. Add 16-gauge copper wire as an accent Tipsstamping in the molten solder, it can be reheated on top of the 14-gauge base wire. Shape with and stamped again. If you overheat the solder, you your fingers to create a free-formed look. Thread run the risk of melting your rubber stamp. 16-gauge copper wire through the second bail you • Be sure the rhinestones are made of glass! Plastic created and secure in place. rhinestones will melt when heated with a torch. 7. Brush flux on one end of the wired component and • The stamped ring is adjustable and will fit any onto the back of the rhinestone chain. Heat the area sized finger. with a torch and secure the rhinestone with solder. Wrap the rhinestone chain as desired and repeat the Rochelle Nation is a published jewelry artist and mixed-media process to secure the other end of the rhinestone jewelry instructor who resides in Atlanta, Georgia, with her chain in place. Allow the piece to cool, clean husband, Jim. Her jewelry collection, workshop, and show thoroughly with soapy water and a toothbrush, and schedule can be found online at rochellenation.com or on let dry. Instagram (@rnationjewelry).
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