CFA6710 Ladakh: Ancient Culture in Modern Times | Spring & Summer 2016 part 1: 4 Sundays: April/May, 11:00 am – 2:00 pm | Corcoran, TBD part 2: India July 1–July 29 | instructor: Antje Kharchi contact: [email protected]
COURSE DESCRIPTION: OBJECTIVES: Ladakh, a high-altitude desert beyond You will the peaks of the Himalaya, offers few g Learn about a variety of cultures and their coexistence, specifically in resources in an extreme climate. Yet Ladakh it has been the home of a thriving g Learn about Buddhism and its impact on daily life in Ladakh agricultural society for over a thousand g Meet and live with Ladakhis and learn about their living circumstances years. In this course you will explore g Witness the impact of tourism on an agricultural society the coping skills and attitudes that allow the people of Ladakh to survive g Learn about the role of art and design in another culture and prosper in peace and harmony g Learn about the value of basic necessities under the harshest of circumstances. g Gain a broader perspective of your own culture g Have experiences outside your comfort zone We will examine community and family structures, the role of Buddhist g Challenge yourself physically and mentally traditions and ancient localized g Learn to be a responsible traveler knowledge, as well as the impact of tourism, to learn whether Ladakh is PROJECTS: prepared to meet the challenges of g Keep a journal (writing and visual) increasing westernization without g A 12-page paper that illuminates a connection between the required losing its ecological balance and reading, your own observations, and additional research on a particular social harmony. aspect you choose (see possible topic suggestions on page 6). With this paper you will create an argument for a particular point you wish to make, In addition, we will discuss the role with the inclusion of footnotes and a bibliography. of artists and designers in society First draft due: August 15. Final paper due: August 29, 2016. by comparing Himalayan art to g Create artwork based on your reading, research, and experiences to western art. participate in a group exhibition in the Fall semester of 2016. Date and space to be determined. Part I: We will meet four times to prepare for a month-long tour of Ladakh beginning in New Delhi. You REQUIRED READING will read and discuss a text on Ladakhi Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh; Norberg-Hodge, Helena (1991); culture and development issues, watch Oxford University Press. Available at amazon.com. and discuss videos and a movie, and get a basic introduction to Buddhism. CFA6710 Ladakh: Ancient Culture in Modern Times | Spring & Summer 2016 part 1: 4 Sundays: April/May, 11:00 am – 2:00 pm | Corcoran, TBD part 2: India July 1–July 29 | instructor: Antje Kharchi contact: [email protected]
PART I | CLASSROOM g Session 1: Logistics (visa, forms, insurance applications, packing) Lecture on geography, history, and culture of Ladakh; safety measures in Delhi, Manali, Ladakh; appropriate dress and behavior; emergency contact info g Session 2: Videos and discussion Ancient Futures (1993) Paradise with Side Effects (2004); g Session 3: Lecture on Buddhism Video: The Tibetan Book of the Dead (1994), discussion g Session 4: Movie: Samsara (2001), discussion, wrap-up
PART II | INDIA g July 1: Arrival in Delhi, afternoon orientation and safety information meeting; emergency contact info; neighborhood walk in Pahar Gunj g July 2–4: Rest, acclimatization! Sightseeing (Humayun Tomb, Hanuman Temple, Agrasen Ki Baoli, Handicraft Museum) g July 5–6: Night bus ride to Manali (12–14 hours) g July 6–7: 2 nights in Manali guesthouse, acclimatization walks, sightseeing (Hadimba Temple, Vashisht Temple and hot springs), visit at seasonal workers’ tent camp. g July 8: Minibus to Jispa Journey’s Camp (8–10 hours) g July 9: Minibus to Leh (12–14 hours), arrival at Thangkop homestay (permanent base for 16 days) g July 10–11: Rest and walks to restaurants and market, acclimatizing; local emergency contact information g July 12: Local sightseeing trip (Thikse, Stakna, Matho, Spittuk monasteries, woodcarving industry, etc.) g July 13–July 14: Luna Ladakh Camp, 1 night g July 15: Oracle session g July 16–18: Nubra Valley (World’s highest motorable pass, Panamik monastery, silk road, Bactrian camel rides, Maitreya statue and monastery in Diskit) g July 19–21: Markha Valley back country trek with homestays g July 23: Leh–Jispa g July 24: Jispa–Manali g July 25–26: Manali; paper proposals discussion g July 26: Night bus ride Manali–Delhi g July 27–28: Delhi (Hauz Khaz Village, Dilli Haat); paper proposals due. g July 29: Early morning departure from Delhi
These dates are tentative and may change within a 3 to 4-day range. CFA6710 Ladakh: Ancient Culture in Modern Times | Spring & Summer 2016
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ABOUT LADAKH Ladakh—the land of high passes— is the Trans-Himalaya Ladakh’s diverse ethnic population comprises four main zone marking the boundary between the peaks of the groups. The Buddhist Mon migrated from northern India. Western Himalaya and the vast Tibetan Plateau. Opened The Baltis, a predominantly Muslim people, settled around up to tourism in 1974, India’s most remote region is often Kargil from Central Asia. The Dards, an Indo-Iranian tribe, called “Little Tibet”, due to its similarities in topography settled near Kargil where they converted to Islam, and also and culture with nearby Tibet. This is particularly evident in the Dha-Hanu region where they are known as Brokpas in the Indus Valley with its whitewashed gompas (Buddhist and remain Buddhist. The largest ethnic group are the monasteries) precariously perched on hillsides. Tibetans who migrated to Ladakh over centuries.
Ladakh is a province in the state of Jammu & Kashmir and The climate in Ladakh is extreme—temperatures range is accessible by land only between May and October. For from -30˚F in the winter to 90˚F in the summer. The region the rest of the year, snowbound passes close off the region receives minimal rainfall each year, and its agriculture entirely, and Leh, the capital, can only be reached by air on relies on the melting snow during the short growing season. clear days. Two overland routes carry all traffic to Ladakh: The water is carefully distributed through a complex system one from Srinagar (Kashmir) in the West, and the Manali of irrigation channels which are redirected according to road from the South. a rigid schedule to ensure that all villagers receive their allocated share. Labor is shared, and communal efforts benefit the entire village. This attitude of contributing to the common good permeates the entire society.
Ladakhis are open, friendly, peaceful, and utterly non-judgmental. The worst possible epithet in Ladakhi means “one who angers easily”. Theirs is a Buddhist culture where ego, pride, and envy take a backseat to the desire to be a useful part of one’s community and of benefit to all beings. Violence and crime are practically unknown, even though western culture has left a noticeable imprint on the Ladakhi culture.
Altitude in meters feet Khardung La Tanglang La 5500 18,045 Lachung La Baralacha La Naki La 5000 16,405
Sarchu Debring 4500 Pang 14,770 Rohtang La ZZ Bar LP 4000 13,125 Leh (12,000 ft) Darcha Upshi 3500 Jispa (11,155 ft) Khalsar 11,485 LP Deskit 3000 9,845 Tandi
2500 8,200 Manali (7,546 ft) 2000 6,565
1500 4,925
1000 Delhi–Manali 535 km (333 miles) Manali–Leh 476 km (295 miles) 3,280 approx. 12 hrs. Day 1: 8–10 hrs. 500 Day 2: 12–14 hrs. Distance in kilometers 1,640 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 CFA6710 Ladakh: Ancient Culture in Modern Times | Spring & Summer 2016 part 1: 4 Sundays: April/May, 11:00 am – 2:00 pm | Corcoran, TBD part 2: India July 1–July 29 | instructor: Antje Kharchi contact: [email protected]
HOUSING: In Delhi we will stay at the Ajanta Hotel, which is centrally located near Connaught Place and the New Delhi Railroad Station. It is inexpensive, but comfortable, clean, safe, with free wifi and Indian/western breakfast buffet, and with a loyal staff that have been working there for many years. (http:// www.hotelajanta.com/home.html) Food can be ordered at the excellent and sanitary hotel restaurant—either as room service, in the restaurant, or the roof top. Otherwise lots of food options are available in the immediate vicinity. Freshly cooked meals typically cost between $3–4 and reflect a variety of Indian local cultures. In Manali we will stay in a safe budget hotel in the Old Manali area with great views, free wifi, an excellent and cheap restaurant, and a friendly Nepali staff. Old Manali offers many restaurants catering to all varieties of tastes.
On the way, we will stay at a fixed camp in Jispa, Himachal Pradesh. Tents contain beds and attached bathrooms. Dinner (and perhaps a bonfire) will be included. we will cross the In Ladakh we will stay at the Thangkop guesthouse as our home base for himalayas by road. the duration. It is a familiy home with a limited number of guest rooms, and typically our group fills it. The owners (Phuntshok and Sonam) provide This is the safest way to a breakfast of Ladakhi bread, butter, and jam, and copious amounts of transition to a high-altitude herbal tea. You are expected to find your other meals in the market among environment, and you may, the numerous restaurants. You will also find Sonam and Phuntshok to be at most, experience minor excellent souces for information about traditions, history, and life in Ladakh. discomfort. Excursions: During the trek we will overnight at homestays in the back country. In Nubra Valley we will stay at either a guest house or a fixed camp, depending on availability.
TRANSPORTATION: Delhi–Manali–Delhi: Volvo AC Reclining Sleeper bus. This trip will take place during the night (12-14 hours), with dinner and tea stops along the way. Manali–Leh–Manali: A 12-seater minibus. This trip will take two days (10 to 14 hours, respectively), with an overnight stop at Jispa Journeys’ fixed camp. All overnight excursions and day trips in Ladakh will be on similar minibuses.
FOOD: Food is generally inexpensive ($2–5 for a meal) and safe when prepared freshly. Aside from a variety of Indian cuisines (vegetarian and non- vegetarian), there are many options for Western tastes. Safe drinking water is available for purchase everywhere at roughly 35 cents per liter.
COST: $1,450 for airfare (approximately) $1,200 for land package (housing/transportation) Tuition TBD CFA6710 Ladakh: Ancient Culture in Modern Times | Spring & Summer 2016 part 1: 4 Sundays: April/May, 11:00 am – 2:00 pm | Corcoran, TBD part 2: India July 1–July 29 | instructor: Antje Kharchi contact: [email protected]
POSSIBLE TOPICS FOR PAPERS BOOKS: Required: g Ladakhi culture and socialism Ancient Futures: Lessons from Ladakh for a Globalizing World, Helena g Ladakh and the Economics of Happiness Norberg-Hodge, 2009 g Ladakh and the concept of Gross National Happiness Suggested: g Buddhist art and the role of the Ladakh: Culture at the Crossroads, Monisha Ahmed and Clare Harris, 2006 artist in Buddhism Living Fabric: Weaving among the Nomads of Ladakh Himalaya, Monisha g Ladakhi textiles Ahmed, 2003, 2013 g Traditional Ladakhi architecture Alchi: The Living Heritage of Ladakh, Nawang Tsering, 2009 and sustainability Being a Buddhist Nun: The Struggle for Enlightenment in the Himalayas, g Family dynamics in traditional Kim Gutschow, 2004 Ladakhi culture Buddhism for Beginners, Thubten Chodron, 2001 g The role of education in a Turning the Mind Into an Ally, Sakyong Mipham, 2004 developing society The Art of Happiness, the Dalai Lama, 1998, 2009 g Buddhism—a religion or a way The Power of Compassion, the Dalai Lama, 1997 of life? Open Heart, Clear Mind, Thubten Chodron, 1990 g Are Buddhist teachings applicable What Makes You Not a Buddhist, Dzongsar Jamyang Khyentse, 2008 in other cultures? g The role of monasticism in PAPERS: Ladakhi culture Tibetan Buddhist Monasticism: Social, Psychological and Cultural g The role of protector deities in Implications, Melvin Goldstein & Paljor Tsarong, 1985 Buddhist iconography The Social and Environmental Cost of the Global Economy, Helena g The role of Buddhism in everyday Norberg-Hodge life in Ladakh Buddhist Training for Modern Life, Interview with Segyu Rinpoche, 2012 g The historical and political Awakening the Mind, juniperpath.org relationship between Kashmir and Ladakh Heirs to Insight: Assimilating Buddhist Methods into Modern Culture, juniperpath.org g Ladakh and modern material culture MOVIES: However, you are encouraged to come up with your own ideas. Himalaya, Michael Palin, 2004 We will discuss your ideas and Unmistaken Child, Nati Baratz, 2010 concept during our time in Ladakh Kundun, Martin Scorsese, 1997 and on the trip back to Delhi. You will Milarepa, Neten Chokling, 2006 submit a brief proposal for the paper before leaving Delhi. WEBSITES: http://www.theeconomicsofhappiness.org/ DUE DATES: http://vimeo.com/ondemand/theeconomicsofhappiness July 28: Proposal http://www.grossnationalhappiness.com/ August 15: First draft August 29: Completed paper http://www.juniperpath.org/