Northwest Mexico

NORTHWEST MEXICO 317 Urique Pacífico Ferrocarril Chihuahua Batopilas Basaseachi Cascada de Álamos © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Bahía de Kino HERMOSILLO JULY DAILY HIGH: 31.6°C | 89°F DAILY HERMOSILLO JULY Bat- ( p333 ) ( p354 ), ( p354 ), through the through the Álamos ( p347 ) and ( p327 ) suizas suizas Urique Ferrocarril Chihuahua Chihuahua Ferrocarril Bahía de Kino ( p341 ) through the spectacular ) through the spectacular p341 ( Cascada de Basaseachi de Basaseachi Cascada ( p354 ) mighty ing descents to the wonderful canyon- bottom towns of opilas Mexico’s highest full-time waterfall incredible enchiladas incredible as you ride the Pacífico village of of sleepy colonial streets Barranca del Cobre

Cool off in the spray at the bottom of the on the breathtak- Manage your adrenaline Lazily walk off a belly full of Doña Lola’s Suck in the brisk canyon air between cars days in the mellow Lose yourself for a few HERMOSILLO JANUARY DAILY HIGH: 15.5°C | 60°F DAILY HERMOSILLO JANUARY

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The area has a couple of major cities, including laid-back Hermosillo, plus charming villages has a couple of major cities, including laid-back Hermosillo, plus charming area The While these folks lend a conspicuously American feel to many communities, there is no short- there to many communities, conspicuously American feel While these folks lend a Most visitors to this dusty delight are bound for one of two surreal landscapes: the Barranca for one of two surreal bound delight are Most visitors to this dusty

sunset or the penetrating cerulean skies across the dramatic Barranca del Cobre. horizon: the entire northwest of a desert vistas, whether it be the glow horizon: the entire erupts with dreamlike an ecological treasure of biological riches. No matter where you go, keep your eyes on the where No matter riches. biological of treasure an ecological like Álamos and El Fuerte. And you’re never too far from the 12,950-sq-km Desierto too far from the 12,950-sq-km never Sonorense, And you’re like Álamos and El Fuerte. offset the warm earthoffset tones of the canyons with kaleidoscopic bursts of color in the chasms. culture, while the Barranca del Cobre thrives with the vibrantly clad cave-dwelling Rarámuri, thrives who while the Barranca del Cobre culture, age of indigenous wonders. The area around Bahía area de Kino The is known for its alive-and-well Seriage of indigenous wonders. beginning to offer more vacation condos and burger joints than beach shacks and burritos. joints vacation condos and burger more to offer beginning the southwestern US that many towns here – Puerto Peñasco and San Carlos among them – are among them – are and San Carlos Peñasco – Puerto US that many towns here the southwestern runs through it; or the postcard-perfect of the Sea of Cortez, beaches so easily accessed from surpasses the Grand Canyon in mass, depth and accessibility – and the thrilling railway that in mass, depth and accessibility – and the thrilling surpasses the Grand Canyon del Cobre – spectacular gorges and mountain cliffs that comprise a system of canyons that a system that comprise mountain cliffs and – spectacular gorges del Cobre is a region of deep canyons, dusty deserts and colonial villages with cobblestone streets. dusty deserts of deep canyons, villages with cobblestone streets. and colonial is a region of the azure Sea of Cortez waters and the crystal-clear cobalt skies of the Sierra Madre. In between and the crystal-clear cobalt skies Sea of Cortez waters Madre. of the Sierra of the azure A battle of blues characterizes northwest Mexico, a diverse region notable for the striking lucidity northwest region characterizes A battle of blues a diverse Mexico, Northwest Mexico NorthwestMexico NORTHWEST MEXICO El Pinacate y Gran Desierto de Altar (see El Pinacate (see yGran DesiertodeAltar de laBiosfera In NorthernSonora, theReserva Parks &Reserves throughout Spring ispleasant the canyons. the rivers are swiftandtheflowers abundant. andOctober,when rains, inlate September regionCopper Canyon isafter thesummer that precede them.Thebesttimetovisitthe Spring andautumnare similartotheseasons extremely hotandthewinters are benign. In theDesiertoSonorense thesummers are estuaries anddiverse marinelife. serene nature of thecoastlineanddisturbing the northandsouth,drasticallychanging the link PuertoPeñasco withwaterfront towns to Guaymas, fancy marinas(see p329 ) thatwould andanetworkof highway a newsceniccoastal forging aheadwiththeconstructionof condos, much of thisregion Itis intoanotherCancún. tourismagency)pro-development couldturn who worrythatFonatur(Mexico’s gung-ho, andcultureenvironmentalists conservationists an economicboomandraisingeyebrowswith Mexico aninfluxof tourism,causing hasseen population isnowsteadily increasing. a losingbattlefortheirwayof life, their though landsfought anddesert central Sonorancoastal last rebellion of the in1901.ThenomadicSeris resisted theforcesof colonialismupuntilits independent Yaqui tribe,which aggressively Obregón istheancestralhomeof thefiercely GuaymasandCiudad eral wealth.Between fledgling independenceandcoveted itsmin- as variousworldpowers challenged Mexico’s action centered ontheportjewelof Guaymas, witness tomanynaval battles,withmostof the of were Cortez (GolfodeCalifornia) the Sea destinies totherest of España. Nueva the indigenous peoples,ultimately tyingtheir missionsandmakinginroadswith establishing sionary Father FranciscoKinobegan Eusebio Jesuitdates from 1687,whentheItalian mis- agricultural lands.Theregion’s colonialhistory of into irrigationthattransformedthe desert early visitors anelaborate –established system ago. ThePima–direct descendantsof those explorers thiswaysome30,000years passed asagateway toMexicoserved sincethefirst The landsthatstretch southfromNogaleshave History 318 Climate In recent years, thenorthwestregion of In the 19th century, the coastal watersIn the19thcentury,coastal of OTWS EIO • itr ••History MEXICO NORTHWEST of Nogalesopposite Douglas, Arizona. and 42kmsouthwestof Yuma,Arizona; midnight) Lukeville, Arizona,immediately southof that charge aroundM$78 in total). NogalesandHermosillocluding twobetween There are regular tollbooths alongHwy15(in- heading ontoGuadalajara andMexico City. finally turninginlandatTepic (see p446 ) and the beautifulPacific coastforabout 1000km, parallels Guaymas. FromGuaymasthehighway Hermosillo andthencutsover tothecoastat Sonorense forabout four hours (260km)to theDesierto 15/15D headssouththrough ern Mexico andtheUS.FromNogales,Hwy convenient west- bordercrossingsbetween south of Tucson.Thisisoneof themost Nogales, Sonora,about1½hours (108km) beginsatthebordertownofcoast highway, Hwy 15,Mexico’s principalnorthernPacific Getting There&Around highest full-time falls. majestic waterfall, thecountry’s Basaseachi de Basaseachi nature-lovers paradise. migratorybirdrefugeSeri-controlled and largest island,IsladelTiburón ( p328 ) isa moon-like craters and massive dunes. scape acrossa714,556-hectare area fullof boxed text, p324 ) stretches itsvolcanicland- in therest of Sonora state(for example to equivalent of US$25.30, allowingyoutodrive Only Sonoravehicle permit, costing thepeso eitheran onHwy2,andobtain at Cananea at avehicle atEmpalme,or permitstation boundaries,youmust stop cle beyondthese 15 eastof Guaymas.Ifyouare avehi- taking as farsouthEmpalme,atKm98 onHwy and Imuris,oreastof Hwy15/15Danywhere do notgosouthof Agua Hwy2between Prieta no-cost ofthe state Sonoraoperates theno-permit, bringing avehicle intoMexico, butnote that Arizona; and ( San LuisRíoColorado Puerto Peñasco). There are alsocrossingsat it’s onlyconvenient ifyou’re headingwestto the quickest andeasiestintheregion (though National Monument,is Organ PipeCactus h The See See p986 forinformationonpermits The wonderfulParque NacionalCascada deKino,Mexico’s thecoastof Bahía Off 24hr) , 90kmeastof Nogales,opposite Naco, , 357kmwestof Nogalesopposite Only Sonora Lukeville–Sonoyta crossing Lukeville–Sonoyta Agua Prieta Agua

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surreal desert landscapes, Sonora, Mexico’s Sonora, Mexico’s desert landscapes, surreal (bordering Chihuahua state second-largest the US to the north but borders is first) within cultural diversity shows remarkable piñata a its 180,000 sq km. The state is like on its way the country’s best offerings, full of tourism oblivion. to being pummeled into Hermosillo, which has several which flights to and Hermosillo, serves which from the US, and Los Mochis, destinations. several mainland SONORA sleepy colo- pristine beaches, of Chock-full peoples and colorful indigenous nial villages, Obregón Huatabampo Ciudad Cananea Obregón U S A 113ºW Ímuris Parque Marino Nacional Bahía de Loreto Nogales Nogales HERMOSILLO Tucson S o n o r a Magdalena de Kino 111ºW Sea of Cortez Empalme MEX 19 15D

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Temporary vehicle-import procedures for procedures vehicle-import Temporary that several note at- should Day-trippers With more than 11,000 vehicles cross- than 11,000 vehicles With more To get to the main bus station to the main bus from the To get Transportes Baldomero Corral ing into the US at Nogales each day, getting day, getting ing into the US at Nogales each through the border quickly when heading some foresight. luck, or perhaps north requires The cbp.gov/bwt) for Mexican auto insurance, which you’ll need auto insurance, which for Mexican into Mexico. bringing a vehicle if you’re driving beyond Sonora state those who are with at the dealt are Mexico of into the rest at the 21km point inspection site Aguazarca for p318 Nogales. Seeon the highway south of information on the simplified Only Sonora not going beyond who are program for drivers limits. state Sonora crossing offer lots near the border tended parking on the US side for US$8 per day. Ed’s Parking Storage 8am-6pm Sun) behind McDonald’s). ates hourly 1st-class buses hourly ates that go south as far as as north to PhoenixCuliacán (M$588), as well (M$653). Angeles (M$330) and Los away), you can take border crossing (8km local frequent the a taxi of or hop onto one ‘Central buses marked Camionera,’ from a just a couple of López Mateos, Av corner of border (M$4). blocks from the CAR & MOTORCYCLE from Tucson, Nogales, Arizona, Approaching the left lanes go to central Nogales. The right go to the lanes, which ing though only Mexico, to enter way quickest you the Deconcini crossing is open 24/7. As Nogales, you’ll see signs approach plenty of blocks north of the bus station. From there, the bus station. there, From north of blocks buses head south air-conditioned 1st-class 28 (M$1045, 15 to Guadalajara along Hwy 35 City (M$1440, on to Mexico and hours) destinations include Guaymas Other hours). (M$455, 25 Tijuana hours), (M$210, 5½ 13 hours). (M$400, Los Mochis and hours) Hwy 15, with a 1st-class cities along the major bus departing from its station two blocks north from the main station every two hours of (M$167, 3½ 7:30am; stops include Hermosillo Next nine hours). and Álamos (M$362, hours) door, cnr N Terrace & W Crawford; cnr N Terrace

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A Space Odyssey

11am-midnight) Elvira’s Restaurant Transportes y Autobuses del Pacífico La Roca 41-54; www.tap.com.mx) crossing, has frequent buses (US$9, to Tucson has frequent crossing, and one hour), Phoenix (US$26, 3½ hours) four hours). (US$19, Hermosillo Crucero Ave) .com; 35 N Terrace Phoenix (M$341, four hours), Las Vegas LasPhoenix (M$341, four hours), Vegas (M$847, and Los Angeles (M$902, 12 hours) From Nogales, Arizona, 13 hours). and going to Tucson (M$143, two hours), and going to Tucson (M$143, two hours), three hours). hours). three the main bus station, from buses also leave stopping at the station on the Arizona side Mexico City (M$1440, 32 hours), Chihuahua Chihuahua City (M$1440, 32 hours), Mexico (M$140, and Hermosillo (M$590, 12 hours) south of the city center, the city center, south of (M$1043, 25 hours), to Guadalajara travels BUS BUS From Nogales’ est working airport is in Tucson, Arizona, est working airport is in Tucson, Arizona, north. hours) about 100km (1½ 13.5km southeast of the city center but it but it the city center 13.5km southeast of funds in 2007. The near- closed due to lack of AIR AIR Airport is located The Nogales International convenient to get it at this checkpoint at the it at this checkpoint to get convenient ). p987 permit (seesame time as your vehicle a day. open 24 hours are Both offices south of the border. If you’re driving your If you’re the border. south of it is more (buses there), don’t stop own vehicle at the border crossing. The tourist permit is at the border crossing. 21km checkpoint at the vehicle also available If you are heading further south into Mexico, south into Mexico, heading further If you are tourist permit at the im- pick up a Mexican modern building migration office in the large in a low-light romantic setting under colonial stone walls. and cavernous archways Getting There & Away h Mexican Sonoran and regional menu of diverse of of tequila. institution servinginstitution clas- excellent Mexican of sics (nine types M$87-220; 2001: lovely fountain. Ignore the constant barrage constant the barrage fountain. Ignore lovely and mariachi. hawkers of an extensive Mexican menu to day-tripping to day-tripping menu Mexican an extensive a patio with outdoor on a colorful gringos lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO the OldPort districttothe westand,of downtown andresidential blocks,you’llreach Hwy 8.After thegeneral drivingthrough ing), PuertoPeñasco sitsattheendof Mexico’s (from theno-fuss cross- Lukeville–Sonoyta Just anhoursouthof theArizonaborder Orientation in 2009,allhellshould break loose. US. Whenthenewinternational airportopens Vallarta duetoitsaccessibilitybycarfromthe resort citieslike andPuerta Acapulco,Cancún fastest-growing town,withaleguponsimilar lion onitsway.As aresult, Peñasco isMexico’s area in2007alone,withanotherUS$1.2bil- for Puerto Condo. haters opt to callit‘thenewCancún’; might and notahintof Mexican culture. Fans like with views,sportsbars, expensive restaurants condo-hotel resorts, which offer luxuryrooms Sandy Point),ishometoadozen massive (alsoknownas of waterfront, SandyBeach had.Itsmainstretchmunity Arizonanever retirementbasically becometheseaside com- now hometosomanynon-natives thatithas be. Ithasbecomeagringofree-for-all andis to townitused not thequaintlittleseaside But RockyPoint,astheUSvisitors callit,is craving residents of cities. Arizona’sdesert apopulardestinationforthebeach-been thistown hasforyears (Golfo deCalifornia), On ofthe northeastcoastof Cortez theSea x 322 PET PEÑASCO PUERTO Over US$300millionwaspumped intothis Over Leo’s for M$12each.Unforgettable. tacosyoucangetdown nated grilledbeef) is followedbyasmany (finely choppsedsals)andcucumbers. This rots, radishes,onions,limes, guacamole, three typesofsalsa,pickledcar- tray offresh condimentsyou’ve ever seen: ately. First fragrant comesthemostcolorful, Do yourselfafavorandpullover immedi- itisgoingupinflames.indoors, lookslike nothing butastreetside stallandafew seats a good200maway. risingfromthegrillcanbeseenthe smoke Hwy 15anhourandahalfoutofNogales, As youbreech thehillaroundKm210along DETOUR: ASADERO LEO’S 638 /pop44,875elevation48m OOA • uroPñso PeñascoSONORA ••Puerto (Carretera InternacionalNo189,Ímuris), Carne asada! carne asada pico degallo

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source of informationabout thefascinating h intercultural.org; Freemont Blvd,LasConchas;admissionfree; Conchas; admissionM$30; chugging collegestudentsfrom the US. bymargarita- away, asthisiswhenthetownovertaken desert-meets-the-sea ecosystem of Rockydesert-meets-the-sea &Oceans; for theStudyofDesert turtles andthevery friendlysea lion, Arthur. intochecka peek outthevarieties of green sea aquarium alittleworse forwear,butit’sworth The Sights &Activities Santa Fe Clinic Bureau &Visitors Rocky PointConvention 8am-3pm Sat,8am-11am Sun) Post office Café Max’s CEDO all onBlvdJuárez, have ATMs. andBanorte, Banamex Bancomer, Santander, Information Conchas andCEDOareLas to the east. that, theresort-filled stretch of SandyBeach. Sandy Beach forthebigpicture –thereSandy Beach are at theedge of theOldPortandlooktoward daysarethese thenewresorts –juststand While themostvisible of accommodations Sleeping Rocky PointRally Bathtub Races Break Spring Festivals &Events (M$935, adults only) (adult/child M$165/110) availability), fromatwo-hour if youarrange inadvance(check website for offers guidedtours of thelocalecosystems 2pm andSaturdayat4pm.Theplacealso (inEnglish) onTuesdayat ral-history talks eton exhibit,historydisplaysandfree natu- library,whale-skel-Point. Ithasamuseum, Spanish. some goodbooksabouttheregion inbothEnglish and Sun) Thisnature center( below shopwith ) hasasmallgift Davidsons descendon the town. the street in bathtubs-on-wheels in October. internet onone computer. .com; BlvdJuárez &Calle11)IntheCircleK lot. parking 04-44, intheUS877-843-3717;www.cometorockypoint Just downtheroad, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pmSat) (Freemont Blvd; Acuario Cet-Mar Acuario (1285Av Chiapas; (La Marina Center; (LaMarina March isprobably agoodtimetostay March ( This odd event hasexpatsracingdown Thisoddevent x . Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels In early November, 10,000 Harley- 383-24-47; Av Morua; h toasix-hour

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Mexican cuisine here between all the sports between all the sports cuisine here Mexican Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking a little work to find authentic It takes of London amenities. of across the board, from the excellent La Maria across the board, from the excellent La Maria and Soames Bistro right the Gilchrist down to towers, several pools and a lazy river, and and severaltowers, pools and a lazy river, 320 of condos, sleek one- to three-bedroom pool. It’s sophisticated in the rental are which Point. This gargantuan resort and 18-hole and 18-hole resort Point. This gargantuan modern of golf course is a flashy conglomerate Beach; condos M$1925-5500; Rocky it, this is the new face of it or hate in the US 866-360-2324; www.laspalomasresort.net; Sandy rooms, a private beach and connecting Mexican and connecting Mexican beach rooms, a private spectacular sunsets. patio offering restaurant properties with beachfront the few It’s one of the way. on no condos, though they’re ment-block complex laid out in traditional ment-block decent 124 perfectly style features Mexican Playa Bonita Hotel Balboa; r M$990-1210, stewww.playabonitaresort.com; Paseo M$2090-3300; TOP END TOP END kitchen, a peaceful backyard barbecue and wet- a peaceful backyard kitchen, fab breakfast. and prices include a bar area, residential development just a block from residential a common use of the ocean. All guests have this is otherwise a wonderful five-room respite respite this is otherwise a wonderful five-room away down a sandy tucked from the resorts, 990, ste M$1210-1265; could stand but shower Viagra, a dose here of surround the colorful, mosaic pool area. surround the colorful, mosaic style option in the Old Port. The basic rooms style option in the Old Port. ceilings; the best rooms nice wood-beam have marhotel.com; Av Primero de Junio y Malecónmarhotel.com; Kino; Av s/d/ste M$670/770/1120; stone hallway. bathrooms) off stained a beautiful glass–lit 2; s/d M$440/490; 2; s/d M$440/490; and sup- building in town first Port was the posedly for Al Capone a hideout during the build- old stone It’s a stately US prohibition. (all with renovated ing with 20 basic rooms BUDGET & MIDRANGE BUDGET & MIDRANGE HotelPosada La Roca some great down-to-earth options too (though options down-to-earth some great tight budgets). those pickings for it’s slim on lonelyplanet.com www.haciendabnb.com; Freemont Blvd, Las Conchas; r M$825- www.haciendabnb.com; Freemont NORTHWEST MEXICO and followHwy8toPuertoPeñasco. Though 602-956-5696; www.konashuttle.com) service from Tucson and Phoenix for US$180 for US$180 fromTucsonandPhoenix service where commerceand government ruleand and noshonsome cuisine tasty that isn’tabadspot tokilladay,get ahaircut moderncitywithaprovincialmaintained, feel there). That’sashame. It’sactuallyawell- as rollingdownthewindow(it’stoo hotout ofand thecapital Sonora,withoutsomuch Hermosillo, aprosperousagriculturalcenter Many travelers simplydoafly-by through x M$55. than with mostcross-town ridescostingnomore area. Taxis are cheap andplentiful,though, tion andthetownisspread outover awide car, asthere publictransporta- isnousable offor anysemblance comfort, though. from M$350.Take the6am the daytoallmajor stopsinBaja California ABC Albatros by bustoPuertoPeñasco fromHermosillo via round trip(discountsforgroups).Youcantravel Thursday andSunday. from Hermosillo andLosAngeles onTuesday, Connect currentlymercial flights arrivingare open sometimein2009,theonlytwocom- a newinternational airportisscheduled to bordercrossing Lukeville–Sonoyta Driving southfromArizona,crossatthe Getting There&Around 324 HERMOSILLO Don’t loiter too long, though –it’saplace Don’t loiter toolong,though Once you’re intown,it’sbesttohave a register atthesand-tonedrangerstation clearance, 4WDvehicle only)onHwy8and venture, (inahigh- head45kmnortheast landscapes. ad- Togetthere forahiking flow, vastsanddunesandothersurreal volcaniccraters, alargeing extinct lava own, asthere’s nofood,water orfuel. Km 52.Fromthere, you’llreally beonyour Altar la Biosfera ElPinacate de yGranDesierto ofRockyPointisthe Northwest CATE YGRANDESIERTODEALTAR RESERVA DELABIOSFERAELPINA- 90-07; admissionM$40; 662 /pop641,741elevation238m

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10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 lup

Villegas Noriega To Bus Stations

Gua Parque Infantil California D 8

Blvd Encinas Jesús García 18

González Angel Flores 1 La Galería Café...... A4 SLEEPING EATING DRINKING TRANSPORT Colonial Hotel...... Hotel Washington...... Está Cabral...... Los Encarbonados...... Verde Olivo...... La Tequilera...... Siete de Copas...... Buses to Bahía de Kino......

Juárez Campana Cerro de la ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ C3 B4 B4 B6 A4 B4 A5 A5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Chihuahua

Jardín

Juárez No Reelección No Matamoros 11 00 500 m 0.3 miles Mercado Municipal 15 Jalisco Guerrero ὈὈ ὈὈ Hidalgo Cultural Corridor To Jardines de Xochimilco (2km); Centro Ecológico de Sonora (5km); Guaymas (136km)

Garmendia 17 Serdán 10

García Morales Salido Bavispe

Oposura Cucurpe 15 MEX Blvd Rosales B INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Museo de Sonora...... D5 Centro Médico Del Noreste...... Centro Médico Del Librerías de Cristal...... Post Office...... Office...... State of Sonora Tourist US Consulate...... Veta Papelería...... Ascensión...... Palacio de Gobierno......

Yañez Calles Elías 2 Pino Suárez

Morella Obregón

Sonora Blvd Colosio Blvd Oaxaca 15 MEX Pino Suárez 6

Niños Héroes Niños Moreno 4 12

Paseo Río Sonora Sur

Allende Paseo Río Sonora Norte Puebla

Velazco Av Paliza Av 9

Plaza Comonfort

Blvd Hidalgo Blvd Tehuantepec

Blvd Rosales 5 Noriega

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SONORA •• Hermosillo

Michel Cubillas

Zaragoza Ocampo Monterrey

Blvd Francisco Serna

Pesqueira Galeana Bravo AC Hotel San Martín (5km); Hotels; Nogales (277km) nas i Highway Tourist Office (15km); Highway Tourist Office 13 Enc Universidad de Sonora To Blvd Kino; La Siesta Motel (3km); To Blvd Kino; La Siesta To Airport (10km); Bahía de Kino (110km) Sonora Steak (3.5km); Fiesta Inn (4km); Sonora Steak (3.5km); Blvd HERMOSILLO 5 2 3 1 6 4 14 lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO s/n; admissionM$34,free Sun&holidays; zone. There’s agreat newpoolwith aJacuzzi 2007 gave thismotel alegupinthehotel pnasc 498;s/dM$480/530; BlvdKino 2987; www.hotelsanmartin.net; Zaragoza. Plaza shopping street about a15-minute walkfrom but it’sasteal atthisprice. It’sonavery busy machines. Theroomsare opium-denmusty, along withafree andvending coffee stand and interesting artlinethelobbywallshere, M$200/220; Washington Hotel &MIDRANGEBUDGET tostick need places downtown. the citycenter, budget though travelers will Zona Hotelera, aconvenient 15minutes from Most of Hermosillo’s better hotels are inthe Sleeping to get off, asit’snot clearly marked. 15 minutes.about every Ask thedriver when the westsideof Jardín Juárez, which departs public transit,watch forthe‘LuisOrcí’busat telescope Toget viewing sessions. there by as wellan plants andanimalsof theDesiertoSonorense, tral Hermosillo. Like amassive park,itfeatures sion M$30; This SONORA DE ECOLÓGICO CENTRO the historyof in Sonorahoused former cells. –withinteresting itself museum exhibitson in astone-walled,100-year-old formerjail–a Sat, 9am-4pmSun) this Campana, dela theeastsideof Hugging theCerro MUSEO DESONORA the numerous telecommunication towers. worth thedrive it’sashame up–though about bell sound.Thepanoramicviewfromthetopis rocksonthehillcreatesthat strikingcertain a erence orday.It’snamedforthelegend night landmark inthearea andaneasypointof ref- This ‘Hillof isthemostprominent the Bell’ CERRO DELACAMPANA Sonoran plaza comesalive whenvendors hawking 326 denly feels like a small town. swarm in.Acityof over halfamillionsud- Hotel SanMartín Hotel zoo andbotanicalgarden OOA • emslo SONORA ••Hermosillo h tamales a 8am-5pm) ) Cute colonialMexican tiles isworthastrollforitslocation observatory museum ) Acomplete renovation in and tasty variationsof andtasty corn

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PETA-friendly versions of Mexican classics. gie burgers, fresh juicesandsmoothies, dle of countryoffers beef excellentgrainveg- tableside (M$60per 100g),cookedtableside toperfec- steaks –28-dayaged ribeyes– are weighed nial homeinthehotel zone, Sonora’sfamed the interior of aonce-regal buildingandfea- ‘order’ serves twoeasilyandthe ‘order’ serves The tables. condiment cartthatflowsbetween asada, dero mains M$15-60; Los Eating &Drinking for thepriceof a double. with alarge livingroom,givingguestsasuite folk artonthewalls.Alldoubleroomscome canvasMexicantral courtyardandfantastic ness hotel intip-topshape withalovely cen- 375; rM$1989-2147; of thecenter. Rates include breakfast. lush groundsontheroadtoGuaymas,south of designtouches on modernartandsleek The moststylish Vado delRío9;r/steM$1169/1593; Colonial Hotel TOP END ness here, butit’s comfortable. otherwise refrigerators. Cleanlinessisn’tnexttogodli- tourists, whoenjoytheextra-large roomsand option inthehotel zone,popularwithMexican M$700-1000; nicely sizedroomswithwi-fi and minibars. and and slide,a24-hourrestaurant, large TVs M$65-187; attracting afunand eclectic crowd. tures Cuban h tacos Sun; M$25-55, buffet M$127; and live tunes(on Saturday night). scene. It’s agreat spotforcappuccinos,bagels Bohemian inthelocalart hangout steeped M$22-33; M$35-65, desserts just beMexico’s best. recommended.Highly straight toVerdestraight Olivo. Fiesta Inn La SiestaMotel Sonora Steak Está Cabral Verde Olivo Café La Galería

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NORTHWEST MEXICO 327 -lined piece of paradise and is safe paradise and is safe -lined piece of 740 / pop 5000 The town was named for Father Eusebio The town was named for Father Kino is divided into old and new parts: Kino is divided into old and new parts: blissfully alone in any one of the hotels or hotels the blissfully alone in any one of lose yourself. campgrounds. Go ahead, Orientation town. To 16 runs west to both parts of Route station and to Viejo, turn left at the Pemex get fered a massive overdose on condominiums at on condominiums at overdose a massive fered developers. overzealous the hands of is a dusty, run- Kino Viejo, the old quarter, Though town hops the village. down fishing during the day, and shrimpers with schoolkids it turns sleepy and most businesses at dusk are closed by 8pm. Kino Nuevo, west, is further your spend most of you’ll most likely where you’ll find the ‘snowbirds’ It’s also where time. Americans who head south for the (retired turn when their northern residences winter, along this single beachfront who live chilly) road in either spiffy holiday homes or hulk- lengthy, is a soft, The main beach ing RVs. palapa to for swimming. High season is November you may find yourself at other times, March; BAHÍA DE KINO BAHÍA DE KINO x paradise Bahía Mexican kind of de Kino is the stumble upon but rarely you see in the movies, is a true end-of-the-road There feel life. in real waterfront laid-back to the place; it’s the most and one that encourages town in this region out your days soak- packing it all in and living on Sols. ing in the sun and sipping who established a missionary Kino, a Jesuit Seri for the indigenous small mission here It’s 110km 17th century. people in the late by some 10km flanked is Hermosillo, west of beautiful and peaceful Sea coast- Cortez of of it hasn’t suf- Puerto Peñasco, line and, unlike between González and Jesús García, 1½ blocks 1½ blocks García, between and Jesús González from hourly They leave Juárez. Jardín east of to 6:30pm. and 3:30pm 5:30am to 11:30am Getting Around Local buses 10pm from 5:30am to operate terminal, to the main bus To get daily (M$5). any ‘Central,’take ‘Central Camionera’ or east side of on the ‘Ruta bus from Juárez 1’ A taxi to the airport costs about Juárez. Jardín from the main bus station cost M$11. Taxis ZaragozaM$50 and M$60 for Plaza and the Count on M$150 respectively. Zona Hotelera, to either. from the airport From 213-44-55; Blvd 213-44-55; Blvd 217-17-71; Serdán x ( x (

This bar complex fea- This bar complex ); and La Tequilera, a two- ); and La Tequilera, SONORA •• Bahía De Kino main bus terminal 6pm-2am Wed-Sat) 6pm-2am Wed-Sat) , 2km southeast of the city center, 1st- the city center, , 2km southeast of h Siete Tequilera de Copas/La bus terminal in central Hermosillo, on Sonora in central Hermosillo, bus terminal Second-class buses to Bahía de Kino (M$55, the AMH and TCH depart from two hours) Guaymas Guadalajara Los Angeles City Mexico Monterrey Nogales M$60 M$848 Phoenix M$996 Peñasco Puerto M$1295 24hr M$900 2hr 16hr M$180 30hr M$140 M$443 26hr 6hr 4hr 8hr Destination Fare Duration more blocks down. Servicesmore destina- to many the clock: tions depart around Pacífico (EP), and TAP has larger offices a few offices a few has larger (EP), and TAP Pacífico Baldomero Corral (TBC) and Albratros is about is Tufesa, the street Across next door. del Blvd Encinas is Estrellas a block west of Sonora (TNS) and others. More companies More Sonora (TNS) and others. – Transportes nearby separate terminals have Elite, Estrella Blanca (EB), Transportes del Blanca (EB), Transportes Estrella Elite, y Autobuses (TP), Transportes Pacífico de Norte Transportes (TAP), del Pacífico Encinas) class service by Autobuses Crucero, is offered BUS BUS From the and Tucson. Mexico City, Monterrey, Phoenix, Tijuana Phoenix, Tijuana City, Monterrey, Mexico ers, go to cities including Chihuahua, Ciudad go to cities including ers, La Guadalajara, Ciudad Obregón, Juárez, Mexicali, Los Mochis, Los Angeles, Paz, Aeroméxico, America West, Aviacsa, Avolar, Avolar, America West, Aviacsa, Aeroméxico, Daily direct Volaris and Mexicana. Azteca, flights, to other cent- all with connections from central Hermosillo on the road to Bahía on the road from central Hermosillo California, de Kino, is served Aero by Aerobus, AIR AIR 10km airport, about renovated The recently air roof upstairs and indoors in the bar down in and indoors upstairs air roof and hip. city’s young below. Both attract the Getting There & Away Dusk Till Dawn Dusk Till on the open- music dueling live story bar with modern cantina (imagine a contemporary (imagine a contemporary modern cantina in Robert Rodriguez’ the one of version tures Siete de Copas, a large, somewhat rowdy somewhat rowdy a large, de Copas, Siete tures tion and servedtion and grilled flour tortillas, with and jalapeños. onions lonelyplanet.com 171; NORTHWEST MEXICO museum, asit’swheremuseum, mostmembers of the deKino.Bahía It’sactuallymore like aliving playarvhotel.com; Blvd Mar de Cortés 101, Kino Nuevo; trailer Nuevo; 101,Kino deCortés BlvdMar playarvhotel.com; o point youinthe direction).right Studies andEcological forCultural Bay Center or provide tours (folks atPrescott College’s live Chuecaandcanfacilitate permits inPunta or David Morales,allof whomare guideswho decree, lookforAlfredo López,Ernesto Molina presidential tribethrough owned bytheSeri a peaceful,uninhabited ecologicalpreserve in makingtheboattripoutto Ifyou’re interestedkets orironwoodcarvings. youhand-crafted jewelry,bas- will wanttosell womenwho Seri be pounceduponbyseveral the dirtroad;onceyouarrive, beprepared to clearancetomake with high thejourneyalong tribelive. area’s asturdy4WD You’llneed Seri remodeling atthetime of research. indefinitelyUnfortunately, for itwasclosed boxed (see text,about theSeri opposite ). illuminating exhibits(withall-Spanish texts) isatinyspotthatfeaturesin KinoNuevo, Fri) delosSeris Museo Sights &Activities office Tourism Post Office Pemex gasstation New SpaceCafé Cruz Roja deSaludRural Centro Information the stripof hotels and restaurants. cometo this mainroad,andwilleventually Nuevo. from thesea You’llsoonbeable tosee Pemex andkeep headingnorthtoventure into makes uptheoldportionof town.Bypassthe Cortez, andwillbewithinthesmallgridthat ofyou’ll beheadingdirectly towardtheSea 328 Nuevo; Nuevo; inBahía exchange services de Kino. Viejo)ATMEusebio, Kino There are nobanksor services. Viejo; perhrM$10; and ATM services. the bus station. help andhasadecentmapofthetown.It’sattachedto but it beats dying. &Tampico, bio Kino Viejo)Limitedmedicalservices Kino Sleeping , abouthalfwayalongthebeachfront road PuntaChueca OOA • aí eKn DeKino SONORA ••Bahía h La Playa RV &Hotel La PlayaRV (Red Cross; (Red 9am-5pm Thu-Tue) Thisnewofficeiseager to (cnr BlvdEusebio&SalinaCruz) (cnr Mar de Cortés & Santa Catarina, Kino Kino &SantaCatarina, deCortés (cnr Mar isasmallvillage 25kmnorthof (cnr Yavarosa &Topolobampo,Kino h

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( x 242-02-73; www.la h Isla delTiburón 8am-3pm Tue- can Kino Kino , beachfront paradise ishandsdownthebest beachfront paradise champagne viewsona budget. Chevy pinching pesos brickisnice. Ifyou’reshape buttheexposed shady grounds.Theroomsaren’t inthebest street fromthebeach, thishotel haslovely, Located onthebeach attheendof Kino de Cortés &Alecantres; mainsM$45-140; de Cortés able condominiumsfeature fullkitchen t know. to facilities. and have toendure the and sofa bedsinthelivingroom,butyou’ll pnac condosM$850; Nuevo; &Singapur,Kino deCortés Blvd Mar pool. and rooms surroundingacharming courtyard hacienda decked outinrust-orange withall newcomer isareal gem: abeautifulMexican you prefer thegrittiervibeinKinoViejo,this Viejo;r/steM$600/1200; Kino Manzanillo, ste M$600-840; &Creta;delmar.com; s/dM$440/520, deCortés cnrBlvdMar minimumon night summer weekends. with individual marble bathroomsandprivate frontdecks kitchen areas withsinksandfridges, large views andfeature stonefloors, firmbeds,mini Islands. Roomsallboastpostcard-perfect sea in town–itfeels abitlike you’re intheGreek mains M$50-295; inKino’s for taking sunsets. spectacular lent shrimp andfish dishes. It’sespeciallygood thisspotdrawsincrowdsforits excel- Nuevo, town since. kickingoutthebest breakfastbeen ineither room intoarestaurant 20years agoandhave turnedtheirfront andherdaughter Dorita Viejo;mainsM$45-60; Salina Cruz,Kino few with amindof itsown.It’salsopopularfora outdoor, dishes are jointwithan calling atthisseaside lobsterfish orstuffed andvariousseafood Wellinton; mainsM$40-300; La Palapa delPescador Eating sites/r M$220/1200; Las ToninasCondominiums Hacienda Hotel PosadadelMar Hotel Jorge’s Restaurant Jorge’s Dorita Restaurant El Pargo Rojo El Pargo cervezes palapa Omelette ranchero pasc at night. ) These family-friendly These rent- h

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NORTHWEST MEXICO 329 (massive (massive Seri). not camarones gigantes camarones This city, founded in 1769 by Spaniards at Today Guaymas is a bustling port and Today Guaymas is a bustling port and running parallel to and just south of García García running parallel to and just south of López; everything you’ll need is on or near Serdán.Serdán García López and in- Av the Guaymas blocks west of a few tersect map’s extents. villages, later saw later its bay become the locus villages, invaders military campaigns by would-be of pirates. French to ranging from the US navy the marina Currently, center. naval-supply a multi-year, M$5.7 million is undergoing transformation that, if it winds up looking photos, will look the projection anything like looking Travelers Miami than Mexico. more town will opt to stay in the resort for charm 22km northwest. San Carlos, of Orientation Hwy 15 becomes Blvd García López as it Guaymas. passes of along the northern edge Central are Guaymas and the port area Serdán, the town’s main drag, along Av be easy to forget as you stroll the edge of the of as you stroll the edge be easy to forget with boats return fishing harbor, watching the seasonal that October to February, shrimp), available famous for. Guaymas is and Guaymenas indigenous Yaqui of the site camarones rel- camarones as they call themselves, are the least numerous indigenous people in in indigenous people the least numerous are themselves, as they call SONORA •• Guaymas Com caac ) of animals, humans and other figures. These are fading fast, though, as numerous fading fast, though, as numerous are These other figures. ) of animals, humans and palofierro They are no longer strictly nomadic, but still often move from place to place in groups; some- move no longer strictly nomadic, but still often are They The Seris are one of the few indigenous peoples who do not work for outsiders, preferring to to peoples who do not work for outsiders, preferring indigenous one of the few Seris are The

are a real treat. real a are 622 / pop 134,153 times you can see numbers camped at Bahíatimes you can see numbers Most, up and down the coast. de Kino, or traveling ) and the more opposite in villages norththough, live of Bahía ( Chueca de Kino, including Punta visiting Punta for is no substitute It is also important there traditional El Desemboque. to note lookingChueca if you are for authentic carvings, necklaces or baskets (hawkers in front of El in Kino Nuevo and the post office in Hermosillo are Rojo and Jorge’s Pargo impostors, especially around Hermosillo and Bahía de Kino, are passing themselves off as Seri Hermosillo and Bahíaimpostors, especially around off as Seri passing themselves de Kino, are and trying to make Oaxacan) buck off the ironwood-carving a quick Additionally, (some are trade. carvings demand for ironwood increased 1970s the from US markets and charcoal since the late to the has been irreparable end result The of ironwood trees. local populations devastated have see that to stone as the craft of choice (though you rarely on moved Seri economy and they have and deserteither) as well as ecotourism hunting to make bighorn sheep meet. ends live by fishing, hunting and makinglive carvings handicrafts such as their ubiquitous ironwood (known as Sonora – by the 1930s their population had decreased to 300 due to hunger and the introduction the introduction to 300 due to hunger and had decreased 1930s their population Sonora – by the than 500 for more in the same region existed have hardy, and But they are disease. of foreign and fishing – not agriculture, living by hunting, gathering a nomadic people Traditionally years. centuries – the the over turn them into farmers Christian missionaries to of attempts the despite along the Sea of Cortez,Seris roamed El Desemboque in the north from roughly to Bahía de Kino left. so are 900 or Today, an estimated and inland to Hermosillo. in the south, THE SERIS THE SERIS Seris, or The

If you’re driving, you can make the trip driving, you can make If you’re the town’s inextricable link to the sea. It won’t interesting destinations to the south, so to interesting it, you’ll need to embrace the best of make sive coronary. That said, many travelers will coronary. That said, many travelers sive on their way to more transit through here Sonora’s main port. Stopping here for any Sonora’s main port. Stopping here due be time had better length of extended mas- or breakdown to catastrophic vehicle x Guaymas, about nothing cute There’s GUAYMAS GUAYMAS and just drive until you see and just drive the deep-blue Cortez. of Sea tle over an hour. From central Hermosillo, From central Hermosillo, an hour. tle over town on Blvd Encinas head northwest out of from Hermosillo to Bahía de Kino in a lit- from Hermosillo the tourism office) roughlythe tourism office) every hour from to 7:45pm. 5am Getting There & Away Getting There & Away from leave busesCosta to Hermosillo Espresso the new bus depot in Kino Nuevo (attached to poorly translated English menu at this festive this festive menu at English poorly translated seafooder, this is the place to enjoy delicious in breakfasts fish dishes and hearty Mexican The Kino Nuevo. the midst of lenos lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO presidents hailingfromGuaymaswithan which commemorates thethree Mexican Calles 19 and 20. h o writing. of much progress madeatthe time hadbeen deGuaymas Histórico Museo project is in ordertomove thenowrazed run-down neighborhood. A in anotherwise 15,isalsoanimpressivetion onCalle sight hurry. The Sonora (built in1899);andtheneoclassical and itsPlaza13deJulio;the are the19th-century impressive triple-threat monument.Nearby and aroundthe Everything youwillwanttocheck outisin Sights &Activities Post office Internet Mundo HospitalGuaymas General have ATMs on Av Serdán. all andHSBC Bancomer Banamex, Banorte, 330 Information Hermosillo (136km) Airport (10km);SanCarlos(20km); To SuitesdelSol(2km);Miramar(5km); 1 3 2 Calle 11 GUAYMAS 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pmSat,10am-7pm 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, Sun) Hermosillo (136km) Airport (10km);SanCarlos(20km); Hotel delSol(1.2km);Miramar(5km); Armida Hotel,ElOesteSteakHouse(650m); To TufesaandTAP(300m); OOA • uya SONORA ••Guaymas SC...... D1 HSBC...... Post Office...... Mundo Internet...... General HospitalGuaymas...... Banorte...... Bancomer...... Banamex...... INFORMATION , which someone needs torestore, which someoneneeds ina 4 (Av 10; Calle 12 AC old jail (cnrCalle20&Av 15;perhrM$10;

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Calle Yañez 15 rooms andwalls,thisistrailertrashinnew Accommodations choices inGuaymasfavor Sleeping 2A; r from TAP andTufesa bus stations). with amore centrallocation (it’swalkable Sol, thisoneissimilar –minusthesuites but pna delSol Hotel MIDRANGE &TOPEND tiled floors and bathrooms. but cleanrooms,centrallocationand nicely anddone.deal intownwhenallissaid Dark M$250/350; checkered motifin the hallway. We’re theretroshoes. digging red-and-white pai Ana Hotel BUDGET Carlos. San ing foratmosphere shouldcontinueonto budget-minded travelers, butfolkslook- Calle 18 Calle Hotel delPuerto Hotel Suites delSol Suites

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Av 17 ( 13 12 11 10 x pna pna ) ) 21 9 8 Thenewersister hotel toSuites del Withitsnewlytiledfloors, bath- 13 (

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at the east end (cnr Calle 14 & Av 12) (cnr Calle 14 & Av (Estrellas del Pacífico del Pacífico (Estrellas ( p326 ) 222-66-02; Av Serdán 236) 222-66-02; Av heads to (Calle 14, btwn Avs 10 & 12) (Calle 14, btwn Avs x ( p323 ) (boxed text, p322 ) p322 text, (boxed (cnr Calle 14 & Av 12) Goes to (cnr Calle 14 & Av ( (Estrellas del Pacífico office, cnr del Pacífico (Estrellas Santa Rosalía, Santa 221-28-00) x ( Aeroméxico (cnr Calle 14 & Av 12) Goes to Puerto Peñasco 12) Goes to Puerto Peñasco (cnr Calle 14 & Av Tacos El Grillo El Tacos Leo’s Asadero Los Encarbonadas

222-02-04; www.ferrysantarosalia.com; Av Serdán; Serdán; Av 222-02-04; www.ferrysantarosalia.com; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

BEST SONORAN CARNE ASADA ASADA SONORAN CARNE BEST The ticket office is at the The ticket x Leaves hourly for Hermosillo, seven hourly times daily for Nogales Leaves from 10:45am from 1am, eight daily for Ciudad Obregón and 11 daily for Navojoa from 2:45am. Most notable is its to Álamos. one daily bus (3:45pm) direct office, cnr Calle 14 & Av 12) Goes to Ciudad Juárez once a 12) Goes to Ciudad Juárez office, cnr Calle 14 & Av 12 hours). day (3:30pm, three times a day (9:15am, 5:15pm and 10:15pm). times a day (9:15am, 5:15pm and three Transportes Chihuahuenses BUS BUS Guaymas has four small bus stations on Calle Serdán (a Av two blocks south of 14, about the least). to say ramshackle area, Albatros Autobuses Crucero Autobuses Los Mayitos Estrellas del Pacífico Transportes Baldomero Corral Santa Rosalía, California. Baja The passen- ferry ger/auto Noroeste,Operadora Rotuaria del departs and Saturday, at 8pm on Monday, Thursday though around 6am, strong winter and arrives cause delays. winds may h tickets a week Passenger telephone in advance. on the morning of office sold at the ferry are reserva- Make before. days or a few departure, in advance and, even days if tions at least three reservations, ticket early at the you have arrive M$550 for seats and are fares Passenger office. M$750 for cabins. Advance reservations are fares. vehicle for p296 Seerecommended. Guerrero in Baja. in town. an office BOAT Overnight connect Guaymas with ferries Guadalajara and Tijuana hourly. Guadalajara and Tijuana Hourly departures north to Hermosillo and Nogales and to Navojoa. south Calle 14 & Av 12) Hourly departures all day and night to Calle 14 & Av and south. locations both north ( of town. Vehicle reservations by accepted are town. Vehicle of US Aereo Aereo Great Great This airy, Aéreo Servicio (steamed beef) (steamed 222-76-50; cnr Malecón , which has stalls has stalls , which 225-28-00; Hotel Armida; noon-10pm) This popular steak- x ( x

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224-30-35; www.hotelarmida flies direct from Phoenix flies direct A good snack shop serv- A good snack shop flies to Baja destinations flies to Baja x noon-11pm) ( (Av Serdán Calles 17 & 18; tortas btwn (Av

SONORA •• Guaymas tacos al vapor tacos h (rehydrated, spiced beef) (rehydrated, and El This all-you-can-eat pizza and This all-you-can-eat pizza (Av Serdán from M$35; Calle 20; buffet near (Av 221-22-66) (Calle 25, Edificio Guaymense; desserts M$25;

222-55-96) 8am-11pm) (spicy meat stew). Both are in the Both are (spicy meat stew). Though it’s aged, this option on this option on Though it’s aged,

) and hamburgers.

Mercado Municipal x x h ( -roofed restaurant is the spot to try the is the restaurant -roofed (

birria machaca tortas noon-10pm) 7am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10:30pm Sat & Sun) Like most Mexican towns, Guaymas sup- most Mexican Like El Oeste Steak House Las 1000 Tortas Restaurant Los Barcos SE Pizzas Armida Hotel Sky Café Getting There & Away Getting There & Away La Paz, Loreto and Los Cabos. Loreto La Paz, Airways to Sunday. it cuts back to Thursday Calafia once daily all months except September,once daily all months when AIR AIR 10km northwest of The airport is about Guaymas on the highway to San Carlos. and Rodríguez between Calles19 Serdán, on Av around 6am. and 20, and opens southwest corner. It’s a block south of Av Av It’s a block south of southwest corner. Vaporcito for Vaporcito Popular morning stalls include El Rinconito for ports a Sonoran steaks in a saloon-like room decked decked room in a saloon-like Sonoran steaks stuffed game. out in mains M$190-235; In Taxidermy house wins the Innovation Design award, serving grilled raved-about town’s famous fat shrimp. town’s famous & Calle 21; mains M$78-135; palapa you can sit down to eat cheaply. where salad buffet packs in a vibrant local crowd. salad buffet packs in a vibrant h spot just off the cathedral for cappuccinos and spot just off sweet deserts. h For goodness’ sake, at least eat well while well while at least eat For goodness’ sake, here. you’re or terraces, and bathtubs. There’s also a café and bathtubs. There’s or terraces, house. steak and a popular Eating the northern edge of town has cheery lobby lobby has cheery town of edge the northern TV, satellite balconies refrigerators, furniture, .com.mx; Carretera Internacional Salida Norte; Internacional .com.mx; Carretera r M$570-980; pas enette and living area – for the same price area and living enette a double! as is a cool and comfortableis a cool option, especially kitch- with 10 suites the one of nab if you lonelyplanet.com M$20-75; ing NORTHWEST MEXICO per dayto Los Mochis. mosillo, Nogales,CiudadObregón andNavojoa,once offer awealth of outdoor activities. itdoes 22),though nickname, Playa Catch 1970 film ception of Playa Algodones(scenesfromthe pecially knownfor itsbeaches, withtheex- cities.Thetownisn’t es- surrounding desert beautiful spotthat’sarespite fromthehot, nos, taken by amassive influxof Mexico. like the day.Fora seem even moment, itdoesn’t sun descendsuponthemtowardstheendof glow animpressive red-earthed hueasthe Tetakawijestic twinpeaksof Cerro –that thema- –mostnotably dramatic mountains landscape thatispresided over bysomefairly hasabeautifuldesert-and-bay San Carlos Located about 22kmnorthwestof Guaymas, x SAN CARLOS transbordador stopattheferrybuses terminal; askforthe eastbound 6am and9pm(M$5).Several run alongAv frequently between Serdán (aroundM$80).Localbusestake ataxi headingtoItsonorSanJosé, Serdán To get totheairport,catch abusfromAv Getting Around including the following: bound andsouthbound routes todestinations Most companieshave far-ranging north- Tufesa delPacífico yAutobuses Transportes deSonora Norte Transportes delPacífico Transportes 332 ad south. and alldayandnighttolocationsbothnorth Hourly departures and City. Mexico office, cnrCalle14&Av toTijuana 12)Hourlydepartures Chihuahuense. deSonoraand Norte forCrucero,Transportes sells tickets Tjaa $6 15hr 30hr 5hr 1¾hr M$560 4hr 20hr M$780 M$215 M$84 Duration M$245 M$835 Tijuana Mexico City Los Mochis Fare Hermosillo Guadalajara Álamos Destination From October toApril,thetownisover- 622 /pop4500 butatothertimesyou’llfindita quiet, OOA • a als SONORA ••SanCarlos (García López) Heads every few López)Headsevery hourstoHer- (García Catch 22 (ferry). were shothere, henceits (cnrCalle14&Av 12)Also (Estrellas delPacífico norteamerica- (García López) (García snorkeling. 263 Creston; fishing excursions. 1; .com; Marinaterra M$30; BeltronesKm10;perhr .garysdiveshop.com; BlvdManlio El Mar Diving Center DivingCenter El Mar 22 Catch topping the list. and adventure activities,withsportfishing offersSan Carlos awealthof beach-related Activities Post Office assistance. maps andreservation h Bureau &Visitor’s Convention Guaymas SanCarlos Connection Internet Gary’s Banamex Information the larger resorts are toward Algodones. while ies liealongthestripof BlvdBeltrones, Mostmotels andeater-northernmost section. the newerMarina RealatAlgodonesinthe Marina intheheartof SanCarlos, town,and aroundtwomarinas: isbased San Carlos Orientation itrsig height. interesting large rooms.The lukewarm showers are an different motorlodge hasretro charm and A goodbudget option,thissomewhatin- BeltronesKm10;rM$550; .mx; BlvdManlio green buildingon the left. ing intotownandwalk1km;it’s the aqua- atthefirst convenienceright Extra store com- sters fromCiudadObregón. Toget there, turn an extra-large Jacuzzi. It’spopularwithhip- great value:large, roomsaround comfortable is residential neighborhood Ranchitas of Las M$450/500; Adlai Departamentos Sleeping Ocean Sports Shop Dive Gary’s rental, whalewatchingand horseback riding. &Sat,7am-5pmSun)Sunsetcruises,jet-ski 7am-7pm Fri BeltronesKm10)Divingand .com; BlvdManlio fishing. h Pemex stationonBeltrones,has two ATMs. tothe pesos are ThisBanamex, next acceptedeverywhere. Edificio Marina SanCarlos; Edificio Marina Motel Creston Motel 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat)Helpful 9am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Fri, 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) h ( x ( 8am-6pm Mon-Sat) Located at Gary’s 8am-6pm Mon-Sat)LocatedatGary’s Dive Shop. x (Blvd Manlio Beltrones)BothUSdollarsand (Blvd Manlio pac h (Blvd Manlio BeltronesnearCalleH; (Blvd Manlio 226-0202; Blvd Manlio BeltronesKm9; 226-0202; BlvdManlio ( 226-21-62; www.catch22mexicofishing x 7am-6pm) Diving, hiking, kayaking kayaking 7am-6pm) Diving,hiking, and

( ( h x Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels x 226-06-96; www.desertdivers.com; 226-06-96; www.desertdivers.com; ( 7am-4pm Tue-Sat) Thespotfor 226-00-20; www.hotelcreston.com 226-00-49; www.garysdiveshop x )

h This smallhotel inthe ( x 226-04-04; www.elmar.com; 8am-5pm Mon,Wed&Thu, ( x 226-07-70; CalleH;s/d 226-00-49; www pasc

) NORTHWEST MEXICO

333 arrive arrive norteamericanos norteamericanos 647 / pop 8200 / elevation 432m 8200 / elevation 647 / pop From mid-October to mid-April, when the to mid-April, From mid-October The town’s charms have proven irresist- proven have The town’s charms A small and sleepy oasis to land in for several eigners. Mexican tourists come in the scorch- Mexican eigners. July and August, of ing-hot summer months is out. At other times you may when school find scarcely another visitor, though the rainy mosquitoes bring plenty of summer months to town. and no-see-ums ings to renovate and convert to hotels, restau- to hotels, and convert ings to renovate rants and second homes (everyone from the Blue actor Carrolllate O’Connor to a Pabst Now, has owned homes here). Ribbon heiress the well-heeled – who comprise expats a small the town population (it but influential part of stood at 400 in 2007, according to one woman who does each an annual count) – entertain other in their enclosed courtyards, remaining neigh- from their Mexican segregated largely called it a San Miguel de Some have bors. its infancy. Allende in air is cool and fresh, homes, in their winter up residence to take visi- and the town begins to hum with foreign season, from Quail- and dove-hunting tors. also attracts many for- to February, November days, Álamos is a place to get lost in provoca- get days, Álamos is a place to and ghosts history, tales and legends, of tive that spark awe and hushed, cobblestone streets wonder at every notice a Moorish turn. You’ll thanks the architecture, sensibility of in much Andalucian 17th-century to the influence of to wonder why the and won’t have architects, both a national historic town was declared 32 Pueblos Mexico’s monument and one of Towns) – it is currently Mágicos (Magical all to remove a two-year project undergoing lines in a poles and bury electricity telephone site. Heritage bid to become a Unesco World and American retirees ible to a community of been types who, since the ’50s, have creative snapping up many decaying colonial build- ÁLAMOS ÁLAMOS x toward on Hwy 13 depart Navojoa you As the diesel dust of and the oppressive Álamos, begins yield- immediately Desierto Sonorense foothills of lush, forested more ing to the far Occidental. It’s apparent: the Sierra Madre The air is this way comes. something special Pemex newer and the stops are cooler, the bus stations Álamos lies in almost look historical. one only half dug a buried treasure, wait like up thus far by blue-blood foreigners. opportunistic and other 226- pn pn x ( A truly 226-13-14; 226-13-14; For a seri- x 11am-1am Mon- ( Pink-tinted, Pink-tinted,

226-11-22; Edificio 226-11-22; Edificio h 11am-sunset) x ( h 6am-9pm) h 5pm-3am Wed-Sat) The town watering hole hole The town watering 226-10-00; Blvd Manlio Beltrones 225-20-20; www.marinaterra.com; h SONORA •• Álamos 226-11-30; Blvd Beltrones Km 10; mains x x ( Overlooking the San Carlos (

) 5-11pm Mon-Thu, 1-11pm Fri & Sat, 1-10pm 5-11pm Mon-Thu, x 226-15-13; cnr Paseo de Los Yaquis & Av de & Av de Los Yaquis 226-15-13; cnr Paseo (

The Bar Peso Hangout/Soggy This whitewashed, family-run spot family-run spot This whitewashed, ) h x (

A succulent chop house A succulent chop serving perfectly

1910 o Marina Cantina & Deli Marinaterra Hotel Real Fiesta Carlos San El Bronco 19 and 20) from 5:30am to 10pm. Return 19 and 20) from 5:30am to 10pm. Return San Carlosbuses between leave 6:15am and (M$10). minutes 11pm. Buses run every 15 Buses to San Carlos run west from Guaymas Serdán (starting from between Calles along Av Getting There & Around Getting There & Around swarms in from Guaymas every weekend, this swarms in from Guaymas every weekend, loud and brash bi-level is a must. Don’t club midnight. before bother showing up los Seris; cover M$30; as the sun goes down. Majestic! as the sun goes beautiful beach in San Carlos.beautiful beach It’s simple: one on the beach, in Mexico, the best margaritas of the hike out to Playa Algodones, the most out to the hike 17-16; Playa Algodones Km 20; seasoned cuts of Sonora’s famed steaks in in seasoned famed steaks Sonora’s cuts of room that looks vaguely mysterious a great the outside. from Marina San Carlos; sandwiches M$50; stantial American and Mexican breakfasts and breakfasts stantial Mexican American and the day. throughout additional favorites Rosa’s Cantina Km 9.5; mains M$32-120; cantina serving Villa–themed Pancho up sub- standard with a view toward the dramatic standard toward the dramatic with a view Cerro Tetakawi. Eating & Drinking with kitchenette, and some with excellent bal- with kitchenette, for a Ask conies that boast wide hammocks. aisc rooms has large marina, this high-end resort Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun) Gabriel s/n, Sector Estrada La Herradura; r M$1400-2100; pricier resorts at a fraction of the cost and the cost and at a fraction of pricier resorts TVs No down-to-earth vibe. with a more or telephones. asc everythinghas practically at the you’ll find lonelyplanet.com Blvd Manlio 8.5; s/d M$748/1012; Beltrones Km Sun) M$105-230; of choice for gringos and locals alike offers offers for gringos and locals alike choice of sandwiches, salads, mountain-a wide list of Hour and a worthwhile Happy ous nachos (4pm to 7pm). ous taste of the hot and wild local crowd that the hot and of ous taste special, hidden gem, this local secret is worth this local secret special, hidden gem, NORTHWEST MEXICO from the westandleadsto thegreen, shady The paved roadfromNavojoa enters Álamos Orientation mining isonceagain bigbusiness in the area. up again(twonewmineshave opened) and peoplestilllivethese in Álamos today. restoring themtotheirformer glory.Many of of aboutthetask good pricesandset lovingly crumbling oldmansionsfor the border,bought estate. Anumberof Álamosrealtown andmadeafortuneselling publicitytothe Alcornbrought Los Portales. on PlazadeArmasandrestored itastheHotel theAlmadamansion dairy farmerwhobought Alcorn,aPennsylvaniarival of WilliamLevant Álamos becamepracticallya town. ghost beautiful haciendashadfallenintodisrepair. the populationhadleftandmanyof theonce- great toll onthetown.By1920s,mostof ent Yaqui. Theyears of therevolution tooka vast silver wealthandbythefiercelyindepend- attacked repeatedly, bothbyrebels its seeking up totheMexican Álamoswas Revolution, mine inÁlamos,wasappointed as governor. José María Almada,ownerof therichest silver present states of SonoraandSinaloa. Don of Occidente, avastarea includingallof the ofcame thecapital thenewlyformedprovince and ElFuerte to the south. foothills, connected ÁlamoswithCuliacán the well-trodden Spanish muletrailthrough Real(TheKing’s Hwy),a built. ElCamino blacksmiths’ shops andlater amintwere all metalworks, ciendas, acathedral,tanneries, 18th-century miningcenters. Mansions, ha- more than30,000,oneof Mexico’s principal lowed andÁlamosbecameaboomtownof mine wasopened.Otherminessoonfol- Promontorios, nearÁlamos,andtheEuropa stayed. have silver thatprospectors later found,hewould known about thevastamountsof goldand resisted allinvaders until1928).Ifhehad the indigenous Mayo andYaqui (theYaqui of western Mexico), duringhiswars against Galicia(thecolonial nameformuch Nueva Vázquez deCoronado,future governor of In 1540thiswasthecampsite of Francisco History 334 Today, thecopperandsilver tradehaspicked During theturmoilof the19thcentury,and In 1683,silver wasdiscovered at In 1948Álamoswasreawakened bythear- After Mexican independence,Álamosbe- OOA • lms SONORA ••Álamos norteamericanos crossed crossed 8am-1pm Sat&Sun)Internet access. nations all over Sonora, but oddly short on nations alloverSonora,butoddlyshort Álamos info. Mon-Sat, 8am-2pmSun)Lotsofinformationaboutdesti- best bookshop (and high-end handicraft spot) handicraft best bookshop(andhigh-end in town. Known simplyas‘thecathedral,’this CONCEPCIÓN CATEDRAL NUESTRASEÑORADELA Sights office Tourist Mon-Fri) Post office deÁlamos Hospital General Comps-E money exchange. Banorte Álamos BooksandMaps runs, dryly,from the northwest. Stream), (Ravine which Barranca Arroyo La Both converge attheeastendof townwiththe usually dry)runsalongthesouthernedge. Agua Escondida (HiddenWaters Stream, also along thetown’snorthernedge; theArroyo Stream,House which isusuallydry)runs Aduana(Customs the market. TheArroyoLa uppity PlazadeArmas,istwoblockssouthof end. Thetown’sothermainsquare, themore Plaza Alameda,withthemarket atitseast fleeting prosperity fleeting it created. to theinfluenceof miningonÁlamos,andthe the peopleof Sonora. Specialattention ispaid (all inSpanish) onthehistoryandtraditions of of thePlazadeArmas, hasextensive exhibits admission M$10; This well-done MUSEO COSTUMBRISTA DESONORA in the 1950s. families intimesof –were attack blocked off built asescaperoutes forthesafety of therich church of andseveral themansions–probably the between orso,it’sbelieved) ways (seven ist troopsfromÁlamos.Subterranean passage- Martínez after hebooted outFrench imperial- Ángelto bemelted downin1866byGeneral fashioned fromsilver, butwere allordered rail,lamps,censers andcandelabrawerealtar as the‘White Dove of Inside,the theDesert.’ as acopyof aTucson,Arizona church known 1786and1804, in Álamos.Itwasbuiltbetween h (Church oftheImmaculateConception;PlazadeArmas; btwn Ramón Ortiz &Cocoteros; Ortiz btwn Ramón Information daily 8am&6pm) services (Serdán 4;perhrM$10; (Serdán (Madero 37; (Madero (Palacio deGobierno,Juárez; ( h x museum 9am-6pm Wed-Sun) 428-04-50; Victoria 3; 428-04-50; Victoria h 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) ATM9am-3pm Mon-Fri) and (Juárez 8; (Juárez ( is the tallest building isthetallest x

h ( x h 428-00-53; Plaza de Armas; 428-00-53; PlazadeArmas; 24hr) 428-02-25; Madero 428-02-25; Madero 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, , on the east side , ontheeastside lonelyplanet.com h h h 9am-6pm) The 9am-4pm 9am-6pm church NORTHWEST MEXICO 335 C4 C3 C3 B1 B2 A3 A1 B3 C3 B2 B1 A3 9 200 m 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 0.1 miles D Cerro de Peñasco

To Panteón (500m) Zaragoza 428-13-68) Lifelong local 428-13-68) Lifelong El Nicho Artesanías y Curios... La Uvalama...... Taxi Stand...... Station...... Casa de María Felix...... Spa...... Hotel Casa de los Tesoros...... Hotel Colonial...... Hotel Los Arcos...... Hotel Los Portales...... La Puerta Roja Inn...... Bacchino...... (see 12) Café del Sol...... (see 8) Restaurant Las Palmeras...... Hacienda de los Santos Hotel & Hacienda de los Santos Cenaduria Dõna Lola...... B3 Transportes Baldomero Corral Bus SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT x Los ( 0 0

Sabinos

(El Mirador) (El Cerro del Perico del Cerro 428-04-66; www.solipaso.com; Obregón 3; Obregón 428-04-66; www.solipaso.com;

Matamoros (

da Gutierrez

7 ondi 5 c

Cárdenas

11 Victoria a varietyEmiliano Grajeda offers of walking tours: a History Tour and a House and GardenWalk, a Ghosts and Legends haciendas in town. Tours last Tour of the most impressive hours and cost M$110 per person. He has also two to three added a tour to the nearby former silver-mining town of La Aduana that includes a homemade tortilla-and-cheese local home. lunch at a lov- day trips for nature M$100-250) An excellent resource excursions, including nature ers, this ecotour company offers trips on the Río Mayo and Sea of Cortez, and to La Aduana, Solipaso receiving the dead of wealthy families in 1751, the dead of receiving burying them inside the when the practice of was abolished. church Tours Tours of Distinction 8

Comercio 10

Obregón 12

Beso Agua

Armas

Molina

Plaza de yo

18 Juárez Macías Parroquia Arro

Market Camino Real 1 14 4 16

Arroyo La Aduana 20 Plateros B 21

Plaza 3 (Álamos Cemetery;

Hidalgo Alameda is a fascinating C3 B2 A1 B2 B3 C2 B3 C2 Morelos Rosales 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

cemetery Aurora Mina 13 6am-6pm) 2 h 17 SONORA •• Álamos AC

Loma de Guadalupe Concepción...... Sonora...... Solipaso...... Banorte...... Comps-E...... Post Office...... Tourist Office...... Álamos Books and Maps...... Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Museo Costumbrista de INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

9 Madero Galeana Galeana ÁLAMOS ÁLAMOS 2 3 1 4 15 To Hospital General de Álamos (150m); La Aduana (8km); Minas Nuevas (9km); Navojoa (53km) angel statues, and tall palm trees. It began statues, It began and tallangel palm trees. jumble of above-ground tombs, elaborate elaborate tombs, above-ground jumble of crosses pastel-hued and headstones made of This deliciously ancient cnr Las Delicias & Posada; THE PANTEÓN THE PANTEÓN closed Los Sabinos restaurant. Alternatively, Alternatively, closed Los Sabinos restaurant. road paved up the steep, you can walk or drive southern approach. that ascends from its Arroyo Agua Escondida next to the now- Arroyo Agua This lookout, atop a hill on the southeast edge This lookout, atop a hill on the southeast edge town, affords Álamos of a sweeping view of and its mountainous surroundings, and is a popular hangout spot at sunset. there, To get from the the walking trail that ascends take EL MIRADOR EL MIRADOR

lonelyplanet.com

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ

ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ NORTHWEST MEXICO spot above SuperTito’s supermarket on Mexican-owned propertysitsinalovely 2; rM$450,condosM$800-1146; ances attracts thousands of Mexican visitors thousandsofMexican ances attracts each year. this 10-dayfestival oforchestra,choiranddanceperform- ad courtyard. and art andfurnishings, andhasa cheery garden a Mexican junkyard-chic vibewitheclectic This gorgeous, 150-year-old homecombines 46;rinclbreakfast M$990; rojainn.com; Galeana good). damn intown (theyarehas thebestchips andsalsa large). Thepopularcantina here purportedly quarters are dimcompared tothepropertyat courtyard andbeautifularchways (though low hotel hasabreezy, orange tree–shaded Formerly an18th-centuryconvent, thismel- -hotel.com; Obregón 10;rM$700-1100; cats. and curios, fireplaces, antiquesandplentyof dogs isfullofhomey property,alsoamuseum, Roja, Puerta thislushand appointed toLa smidgeon lesssophisticated butsimilarly 41;rM$550-650; Galeana mariafelix.com; value in town. The M$450budget roomshere are thebest arched walkwaythatoverlooks thesquare. Plaza Alamedaandhasagorgeous 2nd-floor most atmospheric and interesting. Corregidora, isthetown’s bar,La The attached choice forbraveessary budget. soulsonatight inthecenterright of townandcouldbeanec- decrepita tad tobehaunted. Still,it’s andsaid The restored mansionof theAlmadafamilyis LosPortales Hotel &MIDRANGEBUDGET budget offerings are scarce. encircling flower-filled courtyards,though restored colonialmansionsandhave rooms accommodations, mostof which inhabit Álamos hasthemostuniqueandattractive Out of allthetownsinnorthwestMexico, Sleeping Festival &Art Tirado Music Ortíz Festivals &Events andoperateCafédel through May, Sol ( right ). toursfromOctober andhistorical lead bird-watching,hiking arrangement.ItsCalifornianexpatownersalso all byprior 336 La Puerta RojaInn La Puerta delosTesoros Casa Hotel Felix deMaría Casa LosArcos Hotel OOA • lms SONORA ••Álamos

( x

428-02-11; Juárez 6;rM$300-600) ( x 428-15-28; Madero &Rosales 428-15-28; Madero ( x (

x 428-01-41; www.lapuerta 428-09-29; www.casade na 428-00-10; www.tesoros HeldinlateJanuary, pasc asc ) Thisnew, pa A ) ) )

70; .com; Obregón 8;rM$1458-1985; 48; mainsM$35-120; Koky’s, they mean here. shut onMondayanddramaticallycutback manyrestaurants mind thatinlowseason, Álamos hasfounditsfoodiefocus.Keep in Aduana ( opposite ), 10minutes outof town, La toCasa gos acrossfromthebusstation) room forRigoberto’s scrumptiouschili man- dot theedge of PlazaAlameda (save snack From thecheap foodcartsthat andtasty Álamos hasbecomeabitof agourmet’shub. Eating &Drinking 520-strong. collection four pools,three restaurants andatequila propertyfeaturesspectacular 63fireplaces, antique collectingbytheowners andthe ings are theresult of 43years of international tunnels, archways andbridges. Itsfurnish- ofcolonial homesconnected byasequence this sprawlingestatefeatures five restored beautiful propertiesinallof NorthAmerica, M$3190-15,400; www.haciendadelossantos.com; Molina8;rM$2940-2970,ste all openingupontoa courtyard. pleasant with stonefloors andbathroomstodiefor, inn features 10uniquelydecorated rooms cracker Janet cozydream Anderson, whose mansion meticulouslyrestored byCajun fire- Colonial Hotel TOP END v 120, mainsM$70-140; Mexican bites like crepes with ideal forespresso andinnovative Nuevo ble homemade tortillas. chilies orchicken) withcheese andmemora- excellent out thesame Plaza Alameda,thistownclassicstill churns Fri-Sun) best intheworld). to Álamosalone(theenchiladas this family-run,locals’secret isworththetrip homemade Mexican prices, dishesatstartling Volantín s/n;mainsM$30-45; hours. high-season on theiropeninghours. Thefollowingreflects cem sauce. cream Hacienda de los Santos Hotel &Spa Hacienda delosSantosHotel Restaurant LasPalmeras Restaurant o Café delSol Café Bacchino h ) Thisrecently restaurant opened Italian 7:30am-6pm Tue-Sat) Inanewlocationjustnorthwestof Cenaduria DõnaLola Cenaduria

( x

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x ( x 428-13-71; HotelColonial; pizzasM$90- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels h h 428-13-71; www.alamoshotelcolonial 428-04-66; Obregón 3;mealsM$50-

If youhearfolksrefer to 6am-10pm Mon-Thu, 6am-2pm 11:30am-2:30pm &5:30-10:30pm; Anairycolonialcafé h chiles rellenos a

) ( 6am-10pm) Oneof themost x ) Aformersilver 428-00-65; Madero 428-00-65; Madero

chipotle ( x ( suizas

x Stunning 428-11-09; 428-02-17; (stuffed (stuffed are the cider NORTHWEST MEXICO a closed 337 h 110-44-79), Casa La Aduana x ( 647-404-34-73; www.casala 647-404-34-73; x (

. It has basic rooms on the plaza, . It has basic 668 / pop 231,980 If you don’t have your own vehicle, a cab your own vehicle, If you don’t have The real star of the place is the star of The real is also a budding ecotourism move- There rail enthusiasts carry on or begin here in in rail enthusiasts carry on or begin here for the terminus the western Los Mochis, scenic railway. Orientation through the city, running The main street into the southwest from Hwy 15D directly lonial streets or a wealth of activities, though or a wealth of lonial streets for one very wind up here most travelers gateway it is the western compelling reason: most stunning natural at- Mexico’s to one of tractions, the dramatic Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon). includ- Southern Sinaloa, in the Central Pacific is covered ing Mazatlán, Coast chapter. LOS MOCHIS x modern A surprisingly brisk balance of buzz and small-town friendly energy urban 488km south to Los Mochis, travelers greets now Though many travelers Hermosillo. of opt to begin or end their Copper Canyon El Fuerte, picturesque rail journey in more ment happening in La Aduana, led by the Projecto La Aduana Ecoturístico you rap- that will take woman’s cooperative for M$150. shaft pelling down a 35m mine in the birds of 350 species also over are There spectacular hiking. and area to M$200. from Álamos will cost M$150 NORTHERN SINALOA El Fuerte the lovely With the exception of ( p344 ), Northern Sinaloa doesn’t boast co- sions, but Lasions, that once the mine Aduana, and is often is a must, Álamos rich, made It’s a guided-tour itineraries. included on plaza and with a small main tiny little town rustic feel. a Restaurant & Hotel & dinner for two M$1250; r with breakfast duana.com; May–mid-Jun) (prix restaurant but the big draw is its lauded Italian- to M$320), where dinner M$180 fixe Beardsley Sam owner/chef and French-trained New Sonoran cui- prepared turns out lovingly in tomato garlic chili rolled shrimp sine like was The dirt road leading here marmalade. so that should during research, being paved comfortable. more access a little make 8:30am- h Transportes (cnr Guerrero & No & No (cnr Guerrero

(Juárez 15;

428-01-41; www.lapuerta this fascinating shop, x (

428-01-80; cnr Obregon & Gutierrez; & Gutierrez; 428-01-80; cnr Obregon NORTHERN •• Los Mochis SINALOA x Every Wednesday, guests and Wednesday, Every (

Occupying a former silk factory Occupying a former silk It’s sparse but the kiln-fired clay It’s sparse but the kiln-fired sporadically hourly or half-hourly

Wed only)

h 8am-6pm) In Álamos the TBC bus station is on the The closest airport is in Ciudad commercial La Uvalama La Puerta Roja Inn

Álamos that make interesting day excur- interesting Álamos that make LA ADUANA ADUANA LA near several small historic villages are There Obregón, about 90 minutes away. about 90 minutes Obregón, hourly from 1:15pm to 2:15pm, then half- hourly again from 3pm to 6:30pm. A bus to departs nightlyPhoenix (M$549, 12 hours) at 9:15pm. for Navojoa (M$20, one hour) every half-for Navojoa hour from 5:30am to 12:30pm, and then north side of Plaza Alameda. Buses Plaza Alameda. depart north side of plus several to Tucson (M$465, 11 hours) plus several to Tucson (M$465, 11 hours) 13 hours). and Phoenix (M$595, ice for longer trips, including 15 daily buses ice for longer hours), (M$137, five north to Hermosillo Reelección) 21 per day) between 6am and 10pm are (there (M$20, one hour). TBC serv- also has 1st-class to Álamos depart from Navojoa’s to Álamos depart from Navojoa’s Baldomero Corral (TBC) station Access to Álamos is via Hwy 13 from Navojoa, Access to Álamos is via Hwy 13 from Navojoa, 194km from Guaymas. Second-class buses son for two hours) and you walk with your son for two hours) custom-designed pottery. own Getting There & Away pottery classespottery in high season (M$40 per per- h El Nicho Artesanías y Curios 6pm Mon-Sat) behind the cathedral is curios, folk art and brimming with antiques, Mexican handicrafts. chocolate-rubbed pork ribs are a major hit major a pork ribs are chocolate-rubbed local expats. with Shopping with local produce, fish and fowl (courtesy and fowl (courtesy with local produce, fish dishes like Signature husband). her hunter of nonguests alike are welcome to partake in in welcome to partake are nonguests alike Arnold’s delicious meals, made owner Teri 275; Wednesday and Saturday nights. and Wednesday pizzas and favorites like six-cheese lasagna like in pizzas and favorites Colonial. inside Hotel a colorful atmosphere guitar on romantic Mexican live There’s with a Louisiana soul (shrimp remoulade, remoulade, soul (shrimp Louisiana with a brick oven wood-fired out churns anyone?) lonelyplanet.com rojainn.com; Galeana menu M$200- 46; dinner tasting pottery is worth taking home. They also do is worth takingpottery home. NORTHWEST MEXICO recently renovated rooms are great value for 8pm Mon-Sat) 4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm 4pm Mon-Fri, Sat) M$275/326; similarly priced options. will finditmuch more thanother comfortable from here oranything,butbudget travelers M$275/320; Beltran Hotel BUDGET information and logistics. theycanbeinvaluablefor the CopperCanyon tions forallbudgets, andifyou’re headingto Los Mochis hasagoodmixof accommoda- Sleeping do offer somechoice cowboy wear. but theoutsideshops alongAv Independencia place dealingmostlyinmeatandvegetables, isanenergetic market-Degollado andZapata, Independencia Mercado exhibits bylocalandinternational artists.The west Mexico, withmore interesting rotating only) onthehistoryandculture of north- exhibits(Spanish languagesomewhat static free Sun; del Fuerte the a smallmuseum, one of thebestinnorthwestMexico. There is quiet andshady plazawithaclassicgazebo, lovely nearthe sentinel a gracefultower,stands de Jesús The whitewashed Sights &Activities office Tourist Post office Internet Online Café Médico Centro streets inthecenter are two-way. ning paralleltothemainstreets, andvery few (not shownontheLosMochis map)run- blocks inthecenter are splitbysmallerstreets anothermajoron BlvdCastro, artery. Some Topolobampo, you willenter thecitycenter center. Comingfromtheferry terminal at López Mateos asitenters toLeyva the center of town,changes namesfromCalz 338 of the town center. lende) There are planstomoveanewlocationwellout Information Hotel Fénix Hotel OTENSNLA • o ohs SINALOA ••LosMochis NORTHERN Plazuela 27deSeptiembre h

(cnr Obregón &Mina)

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( ) You won’t send postcardshome Youwon’tsend ( ) x x

Like twohotels inone:the16 x ( x 816-20-15; cnrCuauhtémoc&Al- 812-06-88; cnr Hidalgo &Zaragoza;s/d 812-06-88; cnrHidalgo 812-08-34; BlvdCastro130) (Obregón; perhrM$12; Parroquia delSagradoCorazón 812-26-23; Flores 365 Sur;s/d

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). The attached travel). Theattached agency can 7am-3pm Mon-Sat; ( x pa )

( Though theroomsaren’tThough as x 812-5674; Hidalgo 540Pte;sandwiches 812-5674; Hidalgo h Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 818-22-24; www.hotelcorintios.com; 818-22-24; www.hotelcorintios.com;

9am-1am) ) ( A cheerful bluecolonial ( x x tortas, 818-70-46; www.santaanita 812-18-18; Flores 322Sur; (

x v Fabulous quesadil-

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0.3 miles Aldama 800-080-90-90) 800-080-90-90) D

To Airport (12km); Constitución Train Station (19km); Topolobampo (24km) x

( To El Leñador (150m) Héroes Niños 18

817-47-67; www.alma.com Zapata x ( Madero

Aeroméxico/AeroméxicoConnect Degollado Morelos TRANSPORT Autotransportes Norte de Sinaloa..... Autotransportes Norte Bus Station...... Azules del Noroeste Bus Terminal...... Buses to Topolobampo...... Buses to Train Station...... Bus Station...... Estrellas del Pacifico Taxi Queue...... Bus Station.. Transportes del Pacífico Station...... Tufesa Bus Station...... 12) Viajes Flamingo...... (see Transportes y Autobuses Pacífico (TAP) Bus Transportes y Autobuses Pacífico (TAP)

Alma Aero California Juárez Allende to Mexico City, Hermosillo and City, Hermosillo to Mexico

B3 B3 C3 B3 B3 B3 B2 Tenochtitlan

8 9 Av Independencia 10 11 12 13 14 15

0 0 14 Prieto

23 Hidalgo 21 1 812-01-40)

Obregón Tijuana Guadalajara, flies daily to La Paz, Zaragoza 10 4 x .mx) BOAT 24km south- go from Topolobampo, Ferries California Baja to La Los Mochis, Paz, west of sold are at 11pm daily. Tickets Sur; they leave Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR airport is about 14km south The Los Mochis Daily the road to Topolobampo. off the city of flights to other cit- (all with connections direct by offered ies) are ( Guadalajara. City Mexico Laflies to Guadalajara, Paz, and Tijuana. Blvd Castro Puerto Vallarta. and

Hwy 15 (7km);

Leyva

El Fuerte (130km) Cuauhtémoc 11 20

19 Flores Ordoñez 12 3 To Hospital de Fatima (5km); 15 chiletepin

machaca

17 13 Guerrero 2 La Cabaña de Doña Chayo...... C3 SLEEPING EATING Best Western Los Mochis...... Corintios Hotel...... Hotel Beltran...... Hotel Fénix...... Hotel Santa Anita...... El Farallón...... La Fibra...... B 16 9 Middle-class Middle-class

and

C3 B3 B4 C4 D3 B2 Mina 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

sushi and endless Plazuela 27 Leyva de Septiembre 22 8

noon-11pm) The upscale atmos- Blvd Rosales Blvd 6 ceviche, h carne asada carne 812-66-00; Prieto 301 Nte; burgers 812-12-73; cnr Flores & Obregón; mains & Obregón; 812-12-73; cnr Flores NORTHERN •• Los Mochis SINALOA x ( x 9am-midnight)

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AC h INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Museo Regional del Valle del Fuerte...Museo Regional del A2 Parroquia del Sagrado Corazón de Mercado Indepencia...... Jesús...... Centro Médico...... Online Café Internet...... Post Office...... Tourist Office...... El Farallón El Leñador Jardín Botánico Parque Sinaloa y LOS MOCHIS LOS 2 3 1 4 sauce packs a fiery wallop). sauce packs a but there’s excellent but there’s (the shrimp and fish of preparations M$110-130; cruise-ship clubhouse, too much evokes phere young and beautiful. Chips are servedyoung and beautiful. Chips are with fantastic salsas. three steak restaurant (try the Mexicana burger!), burger!), (try the Mexicana restaurant steak oddly popular with both families and the M$33-38, steaks M$92-169; and burger descends on this excellent Mochis flour tortillas. A classic. flour tortillas. (spiced shredded dried beef)(spiced shredded in here arrive piping-hot, handmade-to-order corn and las and tacos with

lonelyplanet.com

ὈὈ ὈὈ NORTHWEST MEXICO Ordoñez, has 2nd-class buses toCuliacánOrdoñez, has2nd-classbuses Ngls $0 12hr 45min 6hr opposite . LosMochisbetween andChihuahua,see M$400 24hr 7hr M$13 5hr For much more about thetrainjourney M$275 TRAIN 2hr 12hr M$1215 M$250 Topolobampo M$180 Nogales M$545 Mazatlán M$55 Los Angeles Hermosillo Guaymas Guadalajara El Fuerte Duration Destination Fare (fares given are 1st-class): Escutia. Juan onCallejón times adayfromsmallstation 94) and Mazatlán. 57; www.nortedesinaloa.com.mx) ers. City, Guadalajara andMazatlán amongoth- main busterminal andheadstoMexico .tap.com.mx; cnrBlvdCastro&Belizario) (12:20pm, 24hours). schedule aswelloncedailytoLosAngeles Nogales andsouthtoCuliacánonalimited Juárezbetween andMerlos, northto goes ( majorsame regional destinations. next door. and Leyva, and onMorelosstation Zaragoza between del Pacífico de Sonora their ownterminals, such as of thecenter. Other1st-classbuslineshave 49; cnrBlvdCastro&Constitución) 1st-class) share alarge (all Futura andTransportes Chihuahuenses arebus stations spread allover town.Elite, with convenience, LosMochis’ numerous In whatwassurely abidtowinyouover BUS the throughout day (M$20). headtoTopolobampoconsistentlyBuses Hidalgo) .mexicoscoppercanyon.com; HotelSantaAnita,cnrLeyva & Mochis, terminal inTopolobampo ( right ). InLos by 340 x goes toElFuerte andtheairport five goes Destinations served includethefollowing Destinations served Baja Ferries 818-22-22; www.tufesa.com.mx) Autotransportes Norte deSinaloa Norte Autotransportes OTENSNLA • oooap SINALOA ••Topolobampo NORTHERN sells tickets sells uptoamonthinadvance. Viajes Flamingo Viajes ( x

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Mochis of glimpse , enjoyedafleeting Mochis at6am,andthe station (M$4.50,20minutes) 30 station departevery the airportcosts approximately M$140. to Western. Ataxi infrontofright theBest the citycenter. Taxis queueuponObregón, Los Mochis of iswithinwalkingdistance ofNearly everything interest totravelers in Getting Around schedules. and theboxedat 7am.See text, p343 ) forfares coppercanyon.com; cnrLeyva & Hidalgo) agency, travel in-house Hotel Anita’s through Santa fee in express chase tickets pricein forthesame parts, orthedaybefore. Youcanalsopur- trains are soldanhourbefore thetrainde- Tickets for tickets inadvance of uptooneweek travel. 12:30pm Sat, 8-10am Sun) office Chihuahua. Tickets are alsosoldinside the departures and towardtheCopperCanyon from 5amto7amdailyforthemorning’s on Serrano. Theticket windowisopen the Paz,the mainlandand La in Baja. of visitors here between istheferry thatgoes further thanLosMochis, the mainimporter norailway train.Nowthatthetrain goes once theterminus fortheCopperCanyon itwas awesome aboutTopolobampo, though Unfortunately, there terribly isnothingelse picked foritsridiculouslyawesomename). popular Mexican pop-culture fora coolwhenitwastheset port intheworld, The second-largest naturaldeepwater x TOPOLOBAMPO probably safer toforkoutM$50for a taxi. for the6am económica forthe can take thebustostation You andPrieta. Zaragoza between Castro, 5amand8pmfromBlvd minutes between ‘Estación’ (or ‘Ruta 72’) buses tothetrain 72’)buses (or‘Ruta ‘Estación’ The You canbuy is8kmeastofThe trainstation thecenter For lodging,the onlygameintownis 668 Hotel Marina Hotel ( x clase económica (ifyoupaycash)andforan8% Viajes Flamingo Viajes primera express 824-11-51; train, which departsat7am,but clase económica primera express

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. 24km southwestof Los 862-01-00; Albert KOwen33Pte; 862-01-00; Albert 9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, ( x one dayinadvance 818-16-13; www.mexicos train leaves Los clase económica (economy-class) lonelyplanet.com . (it wassurely departure it’s (1st-class) primera clase NORTHWEST MEXICO 341 which which primera primera is certainly which has a snack which -pe) operates two -pe) operates che primera express, primera clase económica clase económica clase económica, The Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico Pacífico Chihuahua The Ferrocarril Many travelers prefer to visit the area in to visit the area prefer travelers Many Though many people simply ride the Though the ride people simply many FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACÍFICO FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACÍFICO and slower air-conditioning Cars on both trains have bar. and heating. The nice enough for most tourists, so the issue at least 14 hours comes down to time – it takes the one-way trip on the to make the mountainous, arid interior of northern the mountainous, of arid interior the of with a town just 24km shy Mexico was opened in coast. The line, which Pacific building, is now many decades of 1961 after link between and the Chihuahua the major coast, and is used not only by pas- heavily the The beauty of but also for freight. sengers – sweeping mountain landscape it traverses vistas, and sheer canyon walls, sparkling lakes humans and of it free most of flowers, fields of of any kind – has made it one development of excursions. tourist prime Mexico’s (CHEPE, pronounced trains: the 1st-class stops fewer but makes costs twice as much and bar; and the cheaper and has a restaurant by again – time enough to get a closerby again – time enough to get look the canyons. and explore the temperatures spring or autumn, when the canyon of not too hot at the bottom are cold at the top (as in (as in summer), or too A particularly good time to come is winter). September the sum- late and October (after is still green. mer rains), when the vegetation to June, but Things dry up from February wildflowers. some you can still glimpse world’s most scenic rail journeys, the One of (Copper Chihuahua Pacífico Ferrocarril the Canyon Railway) of feat is also a considerable and 86 tunnels engineering: it has 37 bridges railway line, and connects along its 653km of the Barranca del Cobre region is to make a is to make region the Barranca del Cobre ), ap- p349 ( along the way. Creel stops few Los Mochis, from eight hours proximately (especially backpack- most people is where near the journey, as it’s choose break to ers) good spots for exploring, and is plenty of amenities. Overnight traveler a town full of also possible at Cerocahui,stays are Urique, Posada Barrancasal- and Divisadero, each the train passes before lowing you 24 hours train all the way through and then stop throughall the way train stop and then this is an in- returning, before overnight best way to truly experience justice: the Baja . Passenger fares fares . Passenger cabins for up to four four for up to cabins , an aged inn though the inn though the , an aged ) 9am-10:30pm) Chihuahua DEL COBRE •• Ferrocarril BARRANCA Pacífico salón; h 862-10-03; www.bajaferries.com; Terminal de Terminal 862-10-03; www.bajaferries.com; pas x ( To make the five-hour excursion over to over excursion the five-hour To make The Barranca de Urique has a subtropical The name Copper Canyon, was mis- which The best part about the region is that is that the region The best part about the Rarámuri (see the boxed text, p346 ). p346 text, the Rarámuri (see the boxed ergreens. The entire region is also home to one is also region The entire ergreens. people, indigenous groups of largest Mexico’s of climate, while the peaks high above are 2300m are while the peaks highclimate, above and ev- sea home to conifers level, and are above is the canyon’s deepest point. is the canyon’s at an altitude of only 500m (but 1879m deep), at an altitude of leadingly named by the Spanish (they mistook for copper as they lichen of the greenish-glow specifically refers traipsed through the area), Barranca de Urique – which, to the stunning at its western terminus and Chihuahua in the terminus at its western Midwest, is the most popular way to see the . p343 see canyons. For more, journey over 655km of impressively laid rails. impressively 655km of journey over between Los Mochis travels The train, which Railway, as the Copper Canyon also known Railway), on a scenic passengers takes which some of the steepest areas on the Ferrocarril on the Ferrocarril areas the steepest some of (Chihuahua-Pacific Chihuahua Pacífico stunning chasms. and through right up, over you can travel of North Carolina – the resulting dam- Carolina North – the resulting of would be akin to Copper Canyon’s age ment if a jagged key the size of the Florida the size of key ment if a jagged panhandle was scraped across a car the size parts it’s much deeper. Imagine for a mo- deeper. parts it’s much tacular canyons that altogether comprise comprise tacular canyons that altogether than the that’s four times larger a region Grand Canyon in Arizona, and in several to the dramatic Barranca del Cobre (Copper (Copper Barranca del Cobre to the dramatic than 20 spec- Canyon). more It’s a series of Of all the things to see and do in northwest in awe and wonder none compare Mexico, night. See p306 for vehicle fares. vehicle for p306 night. See COBRE BARRANCA DEL 5am. Returning ferries leave La Paz at 3pm, at La Paz leave 5am. Returning ferries at 9pm the samearriving in Topolobampo people cost M$760 extra. Passenger ferries ferries Passenger people cost M$760 extra. at at 11:30pm daily, arriving in La Paz leave Transbordadores; Transbordadores; M$750 in are Baja, you can buy same-day tickets from same-day you can buy Baja, tickets Ferries in from La Paz at 9pm. It’s easy to find; just at 9pm. It’s easy to in from La Paz town center. to the follow the signs r M$350; r M$350; nice enough if you’re are restaurant pool and lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO coast (west); ifyou’ve gotanadvance ticket while theleftside is bestfortripsgoingtothe side ofright thecarriage heading inland (east), on eithertrain,unlessthe thebestviews tion, youshould beable tosee earlier.the sunsets Heading intheotherdirec- El Fuerte) after dark,especiallyinwinter when much of Creel thebestscenery(between and is often behindschedule anyway,andpasses press, the Chihuahua, considertaking way. the clase económica, express, 342 ecsiey delayed. excessively (56km) To Álamos S onra BARRANCA DELCOBRE(COPPERCANYON) If you’re headingtowardLosMochis from The majority of thegoodviewsare onthe M a y Ro í o ARNADLCBE • ercri hhau aíio PacíficoBARRANCA DELCOBRE••Ferrocarril Chihuahua To ElFuerte

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To Guachochi u e To Choguita; 23 (30km) Norogachi (50km) NORTHWEST MEXICO h 343 ticket, it’s ticket, Chihuahua or 668-824-11-51; 668-824-11-51; with hopes of with hopes of ticket & window 5-7am x ( h primera express express primera trains can only be purchasedcan only be trains primera express primera 614-439-72-12; Los Mochis station Los Mochis station x (

For a same-day clase económica clase económica re- usually don’t Tickets in advance. one day quire advance purchase, but you definitely advance purchase, but you definitely quire walk up during Semanashouldn’t just Santa, at Christmas. or July or August, office by 5am, if go to the ticket prudent to at you’re ticket 5-7am & 9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, window 5-7am & Sun) 10am-12:30pm Sat, 5-7am & 8-10am station trains run every day. Trains tend to run late, and the and the to run late, day. Trains tend trains run every train, which is much slower, often arrives at the end of the line at the end of the line arrives often train, which is much slower, clase económica clase económica and tickets can be purchased can be purchased tickets clase económica clase económica Chihuahua DEL COBRE •• Ferrocarril BARRANCA Pacífico primera express primera run on time, it has also been known to show up two hours earlier or later than times times than known to show up two hours earlier or later run on time, it has also been

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Station Chihuahua Arrives Cuauhtémoc Creel Divisadero 6am (departs Chihuahua) 8:15am Barrancas Posada – 1pm Rafael San 12:34pm Bahuichivo 11:15am Témoris from Fare 1:18pm Fuerte El Arrives 2:17pm Mochis Los 7am (departs Chihuahua) M$295 – 3:15pm 6:10pm 8:50pm M$789 M$820 9:55am M$660 Chihuahua M$875 from Fare 3:25pm 3:30pm M$891 1:20pm 4:45pm M$978 M$1271 5:10pm M$1451 M$148 6:25pm 10:23pm 1:30am M$399 M$399 M$330 Chihuahua M$410 M$446 M$636 M$489 M$726 WESTBOUND – CHIHUAHUA TO LOS MOCHIS TO LOS MOCHIS WESTBOUND – CHIHUAHUA Train 74 Express Primera Clase Económica Train No 76 Los Mochis Fuerte El Témoris Bahuichivo 6am (departs Los Mochis) Rafael San 8:30am – Barrancas Posada 11:26am 12:27pm 1:40pm Divisadero 1:20pm Creel Cuauhtémoc 1:45pm Chihuahua 7am (departs Los Mochis) 6:23pm – M$267 3:24pm M$475 M$562 8:45pm M$655 M$633 10:15am 1:55pm 3:10pm 4:50pm M$664 4:25pm M$1155 M$793 4:55pm M$1451 10:35pm M$133 6pm M$238 1:30am M$281 M$328 M$317 M$332 M$578 M$726 M$397 EASTBOUND – LOS MOCHIS TO CHIHUAHUA EASTBOUND – LOS MOCHIS TO CHIHUAHUA Train 75 Express Primera Station Arrives Clase Económica Train No 75 from Fare Arrives Mochis Los from Fare Mochis Los RAILWAY SCHEDULE – FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACÍFICO FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACÍFICO – RAILWAY SCHEDULE Both the times given below comprise just a rough guideline. You will hear people talk about ‘normal’ times ‘normal’ times You will hear people talk about below comprise just a rough guideline. times given is worth the due to years of experience with the train. This official Though a listen. as if they are train at the train stations or with train conductors it’s best to check with your hotel, so shown here, Chihuahua leaving Also, if you are the on schedules. for the latest making it to the Baja ferry from Topolobampo that same day, don’t count on it. It almost never day, don’t count on it. It almost never from Topolobampo that same making it to the Baja ferry works out. The around 1:30am. There is no time change between Los Mochis and Chihuahua. is no time change between around 1:30am. There Tickets Tickets Primera express express Primera for up to one week in advance, while tickets stops at Divisadero, where you get your first and first your you get stops at Divisadero, where Barranca the actual only glimpse del Cobre. of itself in a complete back over The train circles canyon again at El Lazoloop inside the before and Chihuahua. Creel into steaming and higher through the Sierra the mountains of until the highlight:train when the Tarahumara lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO Amigo Trails 3Amigos Too should begintosee more visitors. of offerings inthesurrounding countryside operators begintoopenshop here, thewealth lot todointown,butasmore indie-minded to findtheirwayhere aswell.There’s nota tours, butindependenttravelers are starting years. several of thestate of Sinaloa,andremained sofor Álamos. In1824ElFuerte becamethecapital GuadalajaraSpanish muletrailbetween and Real,the and atradingpostonElCamino it wasamajor farmingandcommercialcenter, colonial period.Formore thanthree centuries the throughout Spanishsettlement portant fromvariousnativessettlers –wasanim- century fortthatSpaniardsbuilttoprotect de Ibarra,ElFuerte –namedforits17th- probably won’tlasttoo much longer. ElFuerte hasastuck-in-timefeel that Railway, ing pointforatripontheCopperCanyon orend- and, mostly,forbeingagoodstarting colonial ambience,itsSpanish architecture of anexpatoccupationeither. Noted forits drytropicalforests,last standing isn’tavictim America’s town surroundedbyoneof Latin but El Fuerte,andpicturesque asleepy little It’s notascharming orwealthyasÁlamos, x EL FUERTE ifyou station pay cash. costasthe forthesame making reservations www.mexicoscoppercanyon.com) of themany besoldoutbythen.Alternatively,might any cash only,andyou doruntheriskthatthey have tickets topurchase onthetrainwith Chihuahua. Ifyouboardanywhere you else, Creel ( eral publicare onlyavailable inLosMochis, Sun) 5-7am&9am-12:30pmSat, 10am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 344 3Amigos Too andinCreel, booksaccommodations along .com; Rosales 104)Thenewtravelagency,located inside tours inthearea. scooters andbicyclesfor self-guided 4WDs, toursaroundElFuerte andrent kayaks, and hiking this highlyregarded Creel operator. They alsooffer river can behandledbythenewlyopenedElFuerte offices of sales 104; Information El Fuerte isusuallyswarmingwithbus Founded in1564bytheSpanishFrancisco 698 /pop11,920elevation180m . Notetothegen- thatadvancedsales ARNADLCBE • lFet BARRANCA DELCOBRE••ElFuerte primera express h 9am-7pm) AllofyourCopperCanyonneeds ( ( x x Balderrama Hotels Balderrama Hotels 456-00-36; www.amigotrails 893-50-28; www.amigos3.com;Ro- only,from11am)and assisttheirclientsin ( x 668-712-16-23, M$10; by packaged grouptours, somanyhotels are El Fuerte asadestinationwasallbutcreated Sleeping sunset. at Río Fuerte. It’sanespeciallydramaticview the town,itssurroundingarea andthewide Pilas. Thisisanexcellentvantage pointof town’s small a replica of theoriginalfort,attopof the El Fuerte underwhelming). Youcanvisitthe historic,isvery delHidalgo,though Posada featuresEl Fuerte’s mostnotable (theHotel The Palacio Municipal,plazaandchurch are Sights andActivities CiberC@fé Uri@s Post Office Police Hospital RuralIMSSSolidaridad Bancomer ad birdfeeders. and touches like Winchester Revolution rifles place isalittlerural treasure, full of quirky and slate floors andbathrooms. Thewhole Three newrooms offer excellentriver views has builtitroombyfromtheground up. altitude backyard.Theowner,anavid birder, of theriver, especiallyfromitspeaceful,high- the of r M$500; There’s free coffee aswell. they are anddone. goodvaluewhenall’ssaid aren’t ascolorfulthecommonarea, but the sizableroomshere –allwithking-sizebed fering themainsquare. off right Unfortunately, Juventude 102;s/dM$400/450; on the rails. on thestreet neartheinn–whileyou’re off eye onyourcar–which canbesafely parked the earlyside. Mostspotswillagree tokeep an often here booked on solid.It’sbesttoreserve Inquire here aboutitsnewboutiquehotel as well. is theonlyinboundagencywithincanyonboundaries. It traintickets. booking the way,andplansoneventually the Palacio Municipal. access closetothe 3Amigos office. the ATM inCreel is picky. often on cash.There are nobanksbetweenhere andCreel and yourtrainjourneyhere, loadup Ifyou’re starting Mon-Fri) Rebeca Rebeca s/n) Serna Río Vista Lodge Río Vista deCarapoa Real Hotel h ( mirador x pas

8am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-3pmSun)Internet ( x (cnr Constitución&Juárez; 893-03-07) (Calle 5 de Mayo s/n; (Calle 5deMayo 893-15-01; admissionM$5; mirador – does indeed boastlovely indeed does views ( ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

x x ) This rustichotel atthetop 893-06-15; Juárez 103;perhr 893-04-13; Junto Al Museo Mirador; Mirador; 893-04-13; JuntoAlMuseo a

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C1 C2 C1 D2 C2 C2 C1 D2 C1 pnas 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 893-02-26; Montesclaros 37; r 893-02-26; Montesclaros 37; r 893-12-74; www.hotellachoza.com; 893-12-74; www.hotellachoza.com; x ( El Fuerte looks like a drunk looks like El Fuerte

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Río Vista Lodge...... Museo de El Fuerte...... Uri@s Ciber C@fé...... Hotel Real de Carapoa...... Amigo Trails...... (see 1) Amigo Trails...... (see Bancomer...... Post Office...... Hotel La Choza...... D2 Torres del Fuerte...... Hotel El Fuerte...... 3Amigos Too...... INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING

o Hotel El Fuerte Hotel La Choza EL FUERTE

of El Fuerte, which produces local specialties which El Fuerte, of Eating Eating on the outskirts freshwater is a wealth of There housed within an old foreman’s househoused and within an old foreman’s the same For price, chapel. ancient Jesuit-built over it would be unthinkable not to stay here del Hidalgo. Posada beautiful slate bathrooms and exposed bathrooms and beautiful slate adobe are and brick walls. The bar and restaurant columns to the recycled bricks and beams. All columns to the recycled uniquely themed, many with 25 rooms are characterizes this new property, from the res- characterizes original to the excavated cued antique doors relic, rustic elegance and contemporary art rustic elegance and contemporary relic, Francisco Torres has turned his family’s 400- has turned Francisco Torres hacienda into a beautiful boutique year-old colonial of ménage-à-trois A gorgeous hotel. .hotelestorres.com; Robles 102; r M$1000-1500; .hotelestorres.com; century mansion do have some charm and are and are some charm century mansion do have flowering courtyards. set around large, mariachi swallowed a piñata and threw up swallowed a piñata and threw mariachi is design here the place: The clichéd all over 17th- the top. Still, rooms in this a little over M$750-900; Mexican sinks. The excellent onsite restaurant restaurant sinks. The excellent onsite Mexican pluses. also parking lot are and private midrange option not lacking in style: brick option not lacking midrange colorful top floors), domed ceilings (on the tile work, moody lighting, brightly sponge- and colorful walls, cool stone floors painted Calle 5 de Mayo 101; r M$575-690; Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHWEST MEXICO esque valley. Access to Cerocahui isfrom esque valley. AccesstoCerocahui blo inthemiddle of averdant and pictur- thatdoarethose greeted withatinypue- place where touristsrarely but disembark, isahub forlocaltravelersCerocahui anda x CEROCAHUI M$100. about for tothestation behind. Youcantake ataxi trailing about anhourandahalftotwohours arrives before 9am,withthe primera express town. Thedeparture timefortheeastbound Septiembre. de 7pm fromthecornerof Juárez and16 5amand between half-hour depart every 346 The train station isafewThe trainstation kilometers eastof toLosMochis (M$55,twohours)Buses regularly anddown-on-their-luck acceptsdonations bothfortheRarámuri Mexicansaswell. theirowngarments accordingtotradition.3AmigosinCreelmay continuetomake (see p350 ) donating Western clothesisinappropriate, youcandonate 10mofbrightlycolored clothsothey use oftheirecotourismoptionsoutsideCreel atComplejoEcoturísticoArareko ( p353 ). Though which donates proceedstohelpprovide free healthcare good andyoucanmake fortheRarámuri; age of14),withsometheonlyrelief comingfromCatholic missionaries. (itisnotuncommonforgirls outofschoolandmarriedbytheamong Rarámuris tobetaken Poor healthisalsoproblematic;there are andteenage highrates pregnancy ofinfantmortality overwhelming poverty (more than40%have noincome)becomesmore andmore ofanissue. andotherMexicansbecomesthinnereveryline betweentheRarámuri day.Becauseofthat,their their environment–bylogging, mining,drugcultivationandtourist-based development –the life isunderseriousthreat. Betweentherapidlossoftheirlanguageandsevere degradationof time youseeabargain-happy wayof touristtryingtosave thattheRarámuri M$10onabasket manage toretain manytraditions(suchasresiding incave dwellings), itwillbeclearthevery first sume copiousamountsof distance racesintheUSandthroughoutworld. ofthem.Their famousrunnershavewooden ballahead alsocompeted inmarathonsand ultra asmall run gruelingfootracesofatleast160kmthroughroughcanyons,allthewhilekicking to beimpaledonwoodensticksstrategically placedatthebottomofcanyon.Today,they huntedthe Rarámuri bychasingdownandexhaustingdeer,thendrivingtheanimalsover cliffs famous forrunninglongdistancesswiftly,sometimesupto20hoursatatime. Traditionally, women wearsandalshewnfromtire-tread andstripsofleather. (except inmoreand shirts remote areas, where you’llstillseemenin loincloths); bothmenand this region. The womenare knownfortheirbrightapparel, whilemostmenwearWestern jeans beautiful hand-woven andcarryinginfantsontheirbacks–asyoutravel baskets deeperinto andblouses,peddling del Cobre. skirts Youwillseethem–mostlywomen,dressed incolorful politically incorrect) live intheSierraTarahumara’s numerouscanyons,includingtheBarranca At least50,000indigenous (donot referRarámuri tothemastheTarahumara; itisconsidered THE RARÁMURI 635 /pop1550elevation1600m ARNADLCBE • eoau BARRANCA DELCOBRE••Cerocahui If you want to help, you can purchase Rarámuri wares at Artesanías Misión ( wares Misión If youwanttohelp,canpurchaseRarámuri atArtesanías p352 ) inCreel, Though manyare determined toremain isolated withinthisformidabletopography,anddo Another traditionisthatofthe means‘thosewhorunfast’–anappropriate‘Rarámuri’ nameforapeoplewhoare most is 8:30am, though it never itnever is 8:30am,though tesquino, clase económica tesquinada, apotent alcoholicbeverage madefromfermented corn. a raucous social gathering in which Rarámuris con- araucoussocialgatheringinwhichRarámuris hreak riding. horseback of birdshave spotted here), been hikingand cellent forbird-watching (over 225species imity tothesurrounding countryside–ex- peaceful atmosphere and,best of all,prox- girls,aa boardingschool forRarámuri estry. Itboastsafew good lodgingoptions, (communal landholding)dedicated tofor- isan Salvatierra. Today,Cerocahui in 1680bytheJesuit Padre JuanMaría de San FranciscoJavierdeCerocahui beautiful wares until San Rafael. they don’tcomeoutindroves hawkingtheir above ), asmanylive inthisarea, though theboxed (see of text,glimpse theRarámuri around Uriqueiswhere you’llget yourfirst and onestoppastTémoris.Here andin and twostopsafter ElFuerte station, Bahuichivo The town’spretty yellow-domedchurch, lonelyplanet.com , wasfounded ejido

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, is definitely the nicest and clean- is definitely ) (www.amongamigos.com; camp/dm M$50/75, (www.amongamigos.com; 6am-9pm) a h is a great option for independent back- is a great ( train). The jarring ride (M$115, three (M$115, three train). The jarring ride 635 / pop 1500 / elevation 550m 1500 / elevation 635 / pop Hotel Estrella del Río A mini school bus heads down to Urique A mini school Urique has only a few accommodations. Urique has only a few below can seriously your shuteye. stint and sur- the Río Urique manding views of at rounding mountains. Inquire Plaza for guided trips down into this deep canyon in mind, Urique is rural – more town. Keep than educa- passed around here are Tecates tions – and marijuana fuels the local economy (you thought Rarámuri bought those baskets brand-new Ford trucks?), so be extra wary about town. Entre Amigos r M$250) peaceful, Just outside town, it’s more packers. and the American-run spot has nice stone and a big cabins, dorm rooms, camping sites out for scorpions! Watch communal kitchen. Hotel Barrancas de Urique M$250-300; the of est spot, on the main road at the edge Bear in mind, though, the rowdy cantina river. guides certified with the National Outdoor guides certified with the No Trace. and Leave Leadership School from Bahuichivo train station day once a the last train passesafter station the (around 4pm, though bus may be sent an earlier if enough people disembark on the the canyons. Sit on Urique, the deepest of views. the right side for all the bare-knuckle trip at around 8am It departs for the return – just (it runs up and down the main street you may be able flag it down). Alternatively, in transportation with your hotel to arrange in Cerocahui Hotels Urique. can also arrange URIQUE URIQUE x the of at the bottom This starry-skied village, Urique, is also ac- Barranca de impressive cessed from the Bahuichivo and train stop, canyon hikes is a good base for all kinds of from one to several days. lasting anywhere between Batopilas hike four-day to The three- If you organize is a popular trek. and Urique with a guide is rate it on your own, the going comfort you For more M$1000 per person. may contact hikes614-179-03-92; www.ecotravel-mexico.com; per person from M$1320) press descent 1050m a breathtaking makes hours) Barranca de dirt into the and on loose gravel offers rooms (some with air-con) with com- rooms (some with air-con) offers

Offers Offers in Chihuahua 614- COBRE •• Urique BARRANCA DEL x (

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Hotel Misión CabañasSan Isidro Hotel Paraíso del Oso Hotel del Oso Paraíso Any of the hotels here can arrange trips arrange can here the hotels Any of Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Cerocahui for M$30 if it’s not too full. Cerocahui for M$30 if it’s not lift by thumb. The daily ‘school’ bus from bus from lift by thumb. The daily ‘school’ Bahuichivo to Urique may drop you off in tion, and you can always catch a ride with tion, and you can always catch buses, the other hotels’ or pick up a one of Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Plaza will Hotel except the All the hotels pick you up at the Bahuichivo train sta- overlook the small vineyard. the overlook known hotel in Cerocahuiknown hotel and yet another link in the underwhelming Balderrama chain this former hotels, Barranca del Cobre of with hacienda has rustic rooms complete bar, a restaurant, a stoves, wood-burning new rooms Ten gardens and a pool table. M$1963.50/2572.50; cated but tasty. cated glass windows, mural-painted walls and cozy walls and cozy windows, mural-painted glass Rarámuri The food is unsophisti- throws. working ranch. Rooms have wood-burning wood-burning Rooms have working ranch. stained- bottle-built furniture, pine stoves, amigos.com; s/d incl all meals & transfers M$900/1300) s/d incl all meals & transfers amigos.com; tidy and colorful budget rooms on the main tidy and colorful budget plaza with TV stove. and wood-burning surrounding area. property) and hiking trips throughout the throughoutproperty) and hiking trips the riverside campsites and five dorm beds. The and five campsites riverside horseback- can also arrange management on the 20 horses are (there riding tours tours. Vegetarian meals are available, as are as are available, meals are Vegetarian tours. just north of Cerocahui The down- just north of village. that emphasizes is one to-earth vibe here and equestrian ecotourism, bird-watching Cerocahui has a handful of choices for all for all Cerocahuichoices of has a handful budgets. train station for the 40-minute, 16km drive train station drive 16km for the 40-minute, into town. into the canyon, and can pick you up at the you up at can pick canyon, and into the Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book www.hotelmision.com; s/d incl all meals & transfers www.hotelmision.com; s/d incl all meals & transfers cupies a peaceful and picturesque spot spot picturesque cupies a peaceful and 421-33-72, in the US 800-844-3107; www.mexicohorse 421-33-72, in the US 800-844-3107; s/d incl meals & transfers .com; campsite/dm M$50/100, M$1210/1870; Perched in the surrounding hillsides 8km in the surrounding hillsides 8km Perched from town, this newer, family-run lodge pine cabins on a rustic charming offers NORTHWEST MEXICO Chihuahua 614-415-47-21; inclmeals&transfers sM$1210- Chihuahua here costM$35 to M$45. Diaz.It’sontheleft. Mealssign forCabañas townfiveor walkthrough minutes pastthe – –sheworksthemiddle foodstall the station prices.LookforMaríathem atthese Dolores at the sixnewcabañashere andyou’ve robbed oneofa bitfurtherfromthecanyonrim.Get option –tiledfloors, it’s comfybeds – though breakfast M$300/400; minutes). 10 (about thesignonright lage untilyousee just walkdownthemainroadintovil- If noonefromhere thetrain, comestomeet and thefamilycanhelparrange customtrips. basic andcozy,withfireplaces andfirmbeds, atmosphere. Itsvariouscabins androomsare deliciousmeals(M$70)andtranquil pitality, Díaz family’sguestlodge isknownforitshos- bathroomM$600; 3-5-person cabañawithprivate bathroomM$250/400, 1-3-person cabañawithshared/private Díaz Cabañas Sleeping &Eating as well layered clothing. in three) andcarryplentyof foodandwater doit theRarámuri down, sixbackup(though entrance toHotel Mirador. Planonfourhours your own,take thetraildowntoleftof the Wakajípare, on off below.Ifyouwanttoset villagea horseback ridedownintothedeep trip youwouldlike, beitahike totherimor the hotels willorganize anykindof canyon canyon byfoot,caroronhorseback. Mostof Arepo forgoingintothe isalso agoodbase hotels here, makingitadon’t-miss stopover. dangle precariously underthepatiosof a few the first viewsof time:spectacular thecanyon of inns–iswhere itallcomestogether for of atinychurch dozenhouses, andahandful Arepo, thisvillage –madeupof just a couple on therimof thecanyon.Often referred toas the onlyvillage onthetrainlinethatisright isnexttoAreponápuchi, station Barrancas About 5kmsouthwestof Divisadero, Posada x POSADA BARRANCAS in a and spicedupwith fullof shrimp cocktail onionsandtomatoes spot toeat(thespecialty, which, istheonlygoodandclean incidentally, 348 Hotel Mansión Rarámuri Mansión Hotel Barrancas Arepo Cabañas 635 /pop350elevation2220m molcajete) ARNADLCBE • oaaBracs BARRANCA DELCOBRE••PosadaBarrancas

( x . 578-30-08; largerwith8bunksM$100, p chiletepin ) Thisisthebestbudget

aguachile, ( ( x x peppers, served peppers, served 578-30-46; s/dincl 800-777-46-68, in isasoupy p The ) Hotel DivisaderoBarrancas Hotel than 15minutes, youcan check intothe are no taxis. tothecenter oftransportation town, asthere and cheaper thanthetrain,butarrange for entrance (see p353 ). Thebusismuch faster inAreponápuchidrop youoff atthehighway andCreel will SanRafael between train. Buses by mation ongetting Barrancas toPosada therailwayschedule on See p343 forinfor- Getting There&Away Happynightly Hourain’ttoo shabby, either. here isdrinkingintheview,6pmto7pm Sincethemainattraction worthy butsuffice. balcony. Communalmealsaren’t Michelin- viewsfromeachspectacular room’sprivate chain’sin theBalderrama monopoly,boasts run withtourgroups,butthis,theonlyjewel rail journeyin1stclassandit’soften over- hereOne night costsmore thantheentire .com/mirador; s/dinclmeals&transfers M$1985/2985; 16-13, intheUS888-528-8401;www.mexicoscoppercanyon viewfor or less thesame M$685 less. thantheMiradorandboastmorecomfortable beds andwood-beam ceilings.Theyare more rooms ontherimof thecanyonwithplush rustic cabins,butthetruegems are 17new castle, thisquirkyresort hasavarietyof cozy, itlookslike stone because amedieval Castillo’ 1600, dM$1716-2300; station, which roomswith has52beautiful station, M$1780/2150) M$1100/1600, Sep-May 614-415-11-99;s/dinclmealsJun-Aug 4219, inChihuahua back ontothetrain. the conductors aren’t toallowfood supposed food islike edibleart.Gobble itallupquickly– stop alone. JustaskforLucyGonzález.Her in makeshift oil-drumstoves, are worththe Gorditas, market foodcourt. andspectacular Rarámuri your timemore carefully, astheplaceisalsoa and hopbackon.Butbeprepared tobudget gawk andsnapsomephotosattheviewpoint minutes, timetojumpout, givingyouenough from thetrain.Luckily,trainstopsfor15 intothemiraculous canyon only chance tosee than anactualvillage, willbeyourfirst and then Divisidero, definitely atrainstoprather If youdon’tovernight Barrancas, inPosada elevation 2240m DIVISADERO Hotel PosadaMirador Hotel If you decide you want to stay longerIf youdecidewanttostay tacos and tacos Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels psc chiles rellenos,

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( x in LosMochis668-812- , right at thetrain , right in theUS888-232- ) Dubbed ‘El cooked up p ) NORTHWEST MEXICO 349 8am- h 9am-6pm Mon- 24hr) Behind h h 9am-4pm Mon- h st to Chihuahua and 456-01-05; x ( 060) On the plaza. (Av López Mateos López 59) Changes US (Av 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) On the plaza. , overlooking the plaza, is a great plaza, is a great the , overlooking x ( (Av López Mateos López 33; per hr (Av (Av López Mateos 49; per hr M$20; (Av h (Av López Mateos 17; (Av 456-00-80; admission M$10; ( 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) Internet x (

h Casa Artesanías de las del Estado de Chihuahua y Av Gran Visión is the highway through Av Information Information Casa Margarita. Casa Fri) ATM. Fri) M$20; access. on Rarámuri and crafts along with gor- culture traditional clothing, pot- baskets, woven geous photos and more. black-and-white tery, Tours the sur- of tours offer hotels Creel’s Most of rivers, with trips to canyons, rounding area, CompuCenter Divisas La Sierra Police station Post office Santander Sights & Activities The Museo Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) deeper into Rarámurispot to delve culture. in English excellent exhibits with text are There southwest from Creel through Divisaderosouthwest from Creel and and Av López Mateos on to San Rafael. Av kilometers of a couple Gran Visión intersect town. of the center south of local attractions is avail- Information about and most accom- able from the tour operators competition for is fierce modations. There prices. to compare tour business, so be sure laundry serviceYou can get at Casa Margarita ) for M$50 per load – just don’t expect it p350 ( ) p350 folded. 3Amigos Canyon Expeditions ( local info. source for is a great Cascada.net Clínica Santa Teresa Orientation Orientation you Most things small town. is a very Creel need, and restaurants, many hotels including the town’s main López Mateos, on Av are plaza, leads south from the town This street. the post office, the two churches, of the site The Artesaníasbank and the Misión shop. the plaza. train station of is one block north and hotels a couple more are Across the tracks bus station. as well as the restaurants, town; it heads northea Lago passing Arareko southeast to Guachochi, road that runs is a paved There and Cusárare. dollars and traveler’s checks. dollars and traveler’s 10pm) Internet access. 10pm) Internet primera express express primera train, which is officially is train, which BARRANCA DEL COBRE •• Creel

635 / pop 5340 / elevation 2338m clase económica clase económica Its high elevation means Creel can be very Its high elevation can be very means Creel It fully established itself as a traveler’s hub It fully established itself as a traveler’s CREEL CREEL is scorching. lowlands and the deserts of northern Mexico. northern Mexico. lowlands and the deserts of Mexico of even if the rest Bring a sweater, town’s surrounding forests are a welcome a welcome are town’s surrounding forests the tropical coastal from the heat of relief cold in winter, even snowy; and it’s none too cold in winter, In summer, warm at night in autumn, either. aroma from the the cool air and pine-tree lage of Batopilas or to nearby Lago Arareko. Batopilas or to nearby of lage venture out into the rest of the Barranca del of out into the rest venture the canyon vil- whether it be down into Cobre, isn’t a charming plaza or significant historical plaza or significant historical isn’t a charming you can in town, but from here to explore relic for Rarámuri or Ortiz pottery, crafts and Mata civilization. There to just stock up on a bit of ing holes and great bargain accommodations bargain ing holes and great and severalshopping – be it opportunities for comes through. Unlike many of the towns the towns many of comes through. Unlike has some fun water- along the railway, Creel of bargains several the train bargains times a day after of in the ’90s, and now hotels and guesthouses in the ’90s, and now hotels companies line the main drags, tour-guide seen can be aplenty, and backpackers are in search stalking up and down the streets numerous natural attractions. numerous lent base for exploring the surrounding area’s lent base surrounding area’s for exploring the one. Filled with the multi-hued Rarámuri,one. little mar- is (at least for now) a perfect Creel and an excel- and tradition travelers of riage architecture feel vaguely reminiscent of an al- of vaguely reminiscent feel architecture and green white red, albeit a very pine village, Creel, surrounded by pine forests and in- surrounded by pine forests Creel, is an unexpected rock formations, teresting surprise. Oddly, its location and log-fueled x see the railway schedule on p343 . p343 on see the railway schedule cheaper way than continuing on the train. For way than continuing on the train. cheaper to Divisadero by train, information on getting three hours behind but often times more like like times more behind but often hours three You will need two separate tickets an hour. to do this. Buses six times a to Creel also run and slightly a shorter day (M$37, one hour), night if you switch from a nightyou switch if to 35 to 52) for the best vistas. You can also the best vistas.35 to 52) for can also You the without spending here time spend more and Divisidero). Getand Divisidero). a newer room (numbers wood-beam ceilings and views of the canyon. the canyon. views of ceilings and wood-beam with a spectacular view, The restaurant-bar, this is the most public (overall, is open to the option between Posadacharming Barrancas lonelyplanet.com NORTHWEST MEXICO 3Amigos Canyon Expeditions 3Amigos Canyon M$3000 for one night. vate driver withanSUV will runtoaround and driver; forexample,apri- toBatopilas, are doingabigger tripthatrequires avehicle per person, perday–andmuch more ifyou private guide. topayaroundM$300 Expect around 9am.Youcanalsohire yourown if you’re elsewhere, sleeping wanderover together isoften Margarita atCasa ( right ); of people. Theeasiestplacetoget agroup mapsfor you self-guided the rides. Arareko.of Lago 3Amigos( below ) cangive respectively), stronghold andtotheRarámuri slender rockformationsthatresemble each, the fat,squashed;thin,big-headed;andtall, Frogs, Mushrooms andMonks(namedfor bikingexcursionstain are totheValley of the who wantjustataste, themostpopularmoun- area’s attractionswithoutaguide. Forthose rent abike forafew daysandtake inallthe youcouldjust on yourskillandfitnesslevel, bikea mountain playgroundand,depending venture outonyourown.Thewholearea is back; oryoucanrent abicycleorscooter and nearby attractionscanbeenjoyedfromhorse- prime ridingcountry,andmanyof Creel’s to 495m,viaawindingdirtroad.Thisisalso descends fromanaltitudeof 2338matCreel awonderfulcanyonvillage,Batopilas, which Cuauhtémoc, andovernight excursions to hour excursion toMennonite in settlements bottom of deUrique toaneight- theBarranca tourtothe Trips range fromaseven-hour hot springs,waterfalls andotherplaces. 350 .amigos3.com; Av 46)Thoughthey now LópezMateos All tours require aminimumnumber get anymedicine.’ help them.Notonly onthetrain,butsomeplacesin canyonare very remote andyoucan’t own medicine. It’sdifficultforustolookafter thembecausewecan’tgive them anything or tions. Ifthey aren’t usedtoMexican cuisine,sometimespeoplegetsickandtheyneedtheir memory forme. backthenand it’saspecial cars–we hadexcellentservice have sleepercarsandobservatory degrees inside thecanyon. mines. Inordertomaintaintherequired 2.5%rate ofascent,theyhadtodo aloopof360 ofthebe abletoaccomplishitandthevisiontheyhadgetthrough thissection ofthetrain[ride]isElLazo,becauseworkengineeringMy favorite theydidto part ALL ABOARD ONTHE FERROCARRIL CHIHUAHUA PACÍFICO ARNADLCBE • re BARRANCA DELCOBRE••Creel My biggestadvicetopassengersis comeprepared withtheirownmedicine andprescrip- onthetrainwas15orsoyearsago,weused to One ofmyfondestmemoriesworking ( x Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacífico (p341) for33years. He lives inChihuahua. 456-00-36; www Inocencio Reyes Rodríguez has been a porter onthe Inocencio ReyesRodríguez hasbeenaporter M$80-100, s/dM$200/300) the hotels, often at the hotels,often better prices. as allthesametoursandguide services the plaza. Offers ohrie noted. otherwise resorts.star Allspotsincludebreakfast unless ence, fromdorm-stylebunkstonearlyfive- Creel offers kindof every lodgingexperi- Sleeping Expediciones Umarike Tours Tarahumara person. per adventures thatrangefromM$130toM$480 seven-hour to youontwo- guidewhowilltake an English-speaking Sat) Enjoythesurroundingcountrysideonhorseback,with Av 68; LópezMateos El Aventurero option for independent souls. include lunch,mapsandtravelinformation.Thisisagreat range fromM$150toM$3000perday,andsometimes Packages with Nissantrucks,scootersandmountainbikes. tourpackages the CopperCanyon!’bysellingself-guided cellent reputation onhelping youto‘beyourownguidein toursaswell,3Amigosbuilttheirex- offer guidedprivate backpacker scene,where gathers everyone Margarita Casa BUDGET canyon is M$4620. withinthe trip hiking costs M$12,650,andathree-day toBatopilas trip costs M$825,aneight-daymountainbike rental Week-long trips. bike information fordo-it-yourself andcampinggear,offers mapsand mountain bikes Itrents out ing andcanyoningexcursionsinstruction. rock-climb- adventureoffers trips, guidedmountain-bike Thisinternet-basedoutfitter [email protected]) ( x

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Villa St Cruz Hotel Margarita’s Plaza Mexicana Av Gran Visión Gran Av yard. Prices include meals, but certainly not hospitable service. peace and quiet or M$550, cabaña M$600-1200; style is wearing thin, but if you don’t mind town, these of away on the edge being tucked MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Villa Mexicana Prolongación López Mateos s/n; camp sites per person M$75, RV sites with full hookups M$200, 4-person cabins M$1299, 6-person cabins M$1750; has the Creel campground on the south side of coziest log cabins in town, as well as commu- bar, small bathrooms, restaurant, nal kitchen, It’s about a 15-minute shop, laundry and tours. is extra. Breakfast walk from the center. M$450/550; court- set a charming around worn rooms are or Veronica’s – two of the best – and one beer – two of or Veronica’s per day. at Tío Molcas, 45; www.hoteles-margaritas.com; Elfido Batista s/n; s/d 45; www.hoteles-margaritas.com; Elfido Batista s/n; s/d scene but still want a laid-back bargain, head bargain, scene but still want a laid-back for this comfortable run by the same hotel, Slightly family that runs the Casa Margarita. To Tutugury Tsunamy (300m); Chihuahua (250km) Copper Canyon Arareko (7.5km); San Rafael (92km) Divisidero (50km); Sierra Lodge (26km); Complejo Ecoturistico Lago Arareko (7.5km); B To Sierra Bonita (1.8km); Artesanías Misión...... Luna Creel...... (see 13) C1 Station...... Estrella Blanca Bus Station...... Local Buses to Batopilas...... Autotransportes Noroeste Bus SHOPPING TRANSPORT Under new Under new 456-03-91; Flores 456-03-91; Flores ) D2 C2 C1 D3 D2 D2 D3 D2 D2 C1 D2 D3 D1 D3 D1 D1 D2 D2 D2 D3 D1 C1 D1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 COBRE •• Creel BARRANCA DEL 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 x p (

(Av Ferrocarril s/n; r with shared s/n; r with shared Ferrocarril (Av

Roomier and more attrac- Roomier and more AC Sierra Coffee...... Tío Molcas...... El Tungar...... Restaurant Estela...... Restaurant Los Valles...... 13) Restaurant Sierra Madre...... (see Restaurant Verónica...... Casa de Huéspedes Pérez...... Casa Margarita...... Hotel Margarita's Plaza Mexicana.... Hotel Parador de la Montaña...... La Posada de Creel...... Office...... El Aventurero...... Tarahumara Tours...... Best Western: The Lodge at Creel.... Santander...... 3Amigos Canyon Expeditions...... Chihuahua y Museo...... Cascada.net...... CompuCenter...... Divisas La Sierra...... Police Station...... Post Office...... Casa de las Artesanías del Estado de Complejo Ecoturístico Arareko Clínica Santa Teresa...... D1 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING DRINKING La Posada de Creel CasaHuéspedes Pérez de CREEL CREEL 2 3 1 deal than Margarita’s when you consider the deal than Margarita’s the basic rooms comes with a of food: each or dinner at Los Valles for breakfast voucher management and slowly being spruced up, management a better is starting to look like this veteran bathroom M$150, s/d M$250/400; Also on the premises is a communal kitchen is a communal kitchen Also on the premises and Café serves Luly, which your included and dinner. breakfast with wood-stove heating as well as private as well as private heating with wood-stove Creel). rooms (some on the 2nd floor overlook tive than Margarita’s dorms, this Casa has than Margarita’s tive log-walled rooms homey one- to six-person 257; dm M$80, r M$250) Knock off M$50 per day from the prices above Knock off M$50 per day from the prices above if you don’t want meals, though one traveler called the full board the best deal they’d seen Mexico. of in all your bed). Rooms are simple but have great great simple but have your bed). Rooms are and nice, thick bath towels. pressure water tales, and it’s also where you can organize you can organize tales, and it’s also where (be wary, though: if you many daily tours a tour, rumor has it you mightdon’t take lose at the table to eat together and swap travel and swap travel at the table to eat together Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book NORTHWEST MEXICO Mateos 61;rfromM$1025; Mateos in theUS800-528-1234;www.thelodgeatcreel.com; Av López s/n; mainsM$50; on thecorner of Batista. cialties ingenerous portionsatthiscleanspot asada, M$30-85; stew). Goon–it’snicerinside than out. like Para(hence itsnickname,‘Hospital Crudos’) specializesin hangovertrain station, remedies don’t-miss, nexttothetracksjustsouth of the Mateos inthefew blockssouthof the plaza. pretty similartooneanother,onAv López You’ll findplentyof budget restaurants, all Eating center, spaand cozy bar. walls andceilings.There’s alsoasmallfitness gas fireplaces andbeautifulwood-beam floors, logcabin–styleroomswith has well-heeled in town,designedtolooklike ahunting lodge, Breakfast is extra. Rooms 101to105have thebestviewsof town. barandrestaurant.matic hilltop,anightclub, stylish cabañas(save thepinkwalls)onadra- but oneof offers thenicest,SierraBonita The furthestplacefromthecenter of town .mx; GranVisións/n;r Sierra Bonita TOP END bedspreads). floral-print there’s no accountingfortaste withthose (though decent restaurant andfriendlystaff is centrallylocatedrooms,a withcomfortable s/d M$877/934; 415-54-08; www.hotelparadorcreel.com; Av 44; LópezMateos called into question. occasionally hasbeen kitsch, buttheservice in the‘jail,’‘church’ or‘pharmacy.’Itwinson up like anoldvillage backlot–youcansleep tion justoutsidetown,thisbrashspotisset .puebloviejolodge.com; s/dM$600/700; the bestdeal in town! to May) forM$150, theM$550doublegoes toNovember (September season andJanuary with fullkitchens anddiningareas. Inlow family-friendly cabañasare huge andcome 352 Restaurant Estela Restaurant LosValles Restaurant El Tungar Parador delaMontaña Hotel Best Western: The Lodge at Creel LodgeatCreel The BestWestern: PuebloViejo yCabañas Hotel menudo ARNADLCBE • re BARRANCA DELCOBRE••Creel hamburgers h 6:30am-11pm)

(meals M$30-60; h (tripe stew) and ( x Thisalpine-influencedchoice ) 7am-6pm)

M$1006, cabañaM$3205-3354; 456-06-15; www.sierrabonita.com

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( x p pozole 8am-5pm) in Chihuahua 614- in Chihuahua Anotherop- 456-05-38; www ( ) x (hominy 456-00-71, comida This carne p )

2am Thu-Sun) 3-9pm) with the indigenous crowd. ers fresh from thetrain,itchin’ toswaptall globaltravel- withbedraggled fills upnightly &Sat) 5pm-2am Fri cookies, pastriesand free wi-fi. parts.Thererarity inthese are alsohomemade and espresso thatwon’tmake youangry–a h and there elsewhere. hole –butyoucanfindtravelers drinkinghere Molcas isstilltheonlytried-and-truewatering produced thenightlife you’dexpect–Tío Creel’s asatraveler’s status meccahasn’tyet Drinking of steaks, seafood and pasta. alimited dinnermenu Itserves taxidermy. woodbeamsandplentyofwalls, exposed festive Western, withstone placeattheBest M$68-155) feisty salsa. tortillas. chicken is try dish atthispopularspotforsteaks and 33; mainsM$57-110; option. budget corrida Wsen (left). Western ing nearPaquimé. It’s totheBest attached studied anthropology andjewelrymak- soaps byAnna and LuisPacheco, who silverhandmade artisan ringsand organic of Pickupapair medical care fortheRarámuri. which mission provides hospital, Catholic free All of thestore’s earningsgotosupportthe as welldistinctive Mata Ortiz pottery. Many handicrafts shops Rarámuri inCreel sell Shopping andtake thefirsttrain station leftonJuárez. ist bounds.Toget there, headnorthfromthe head tothisdisco-bar, out of justslightly tour- It’s good fun. travel over tales DosEquisand inacast-ironskilletthatyoueatwith served Tío Molcas Sierra Coffee Verónica Restaurant Luna Creel Luna Creel Misión Artesanías Restaurant Sierra Madre SierraMadre Restaurant Tutugury Tsunamy huarache 8am-10pm) A wonderfulcafé/jewelryshop for right outof right itshomekitchen –agood Formore upscaledining,trythis

The joint also serves a downright adownright The jointalsoserves For a serious dose of dose localcolor, For aserious El Norteño, (Av 35; LópezMateos sandals and you’ll blend right in andyou’llblendright sandals This humble café serves coffee This humblecaféserves (Av 61; LópezMateos Thiscozy,wood-heated bar ( x Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels h

(cnr GranVisión&Juárez; 456-07-76; Av 60; LópezMateos (plaza; 7:30am-10:30pm) ( x a cheesy, beefy mess acheesy, beefy h 456-06-31; Av LópezMateos (Av 61;mains LópezMateos 9:30am-1pm &3-6pm) h 5pm-1am Sun-Thu, h telenovelas The must- 9am-1pm & h 9pm- .

NORTHWEST MEXICO ,

353 and are really really are , sits on , sits on , a Rarámuri is a waterfall is a waterfall ejido Aguas Termales

primera express primera San Ignacio Mission Valle de los Monjes Valle Lago Arareko Valle de las RanasValle Rekowata at about 1:20pm (thoughat about 1:20pm (place of eagles). Also in (place of Cascada Cusárare – ‘frogs’ and ‘mushrooms,’ – ‘frogs’ and ‘mushrooms,’ Cusárare as well, where it beautifully reflects reflects it beautifully as well, where Complejo Ecoturístico Arareko Complejo Ecoturístico Arareko It is home to about 400 families who It is home to about 400 families who ejido clase económica clase económica The 30m-high A popular day trip in the area is to the is to the A popular day trip in the area the surrounding pine trees and rock forma- the surrounding pine trees less a swimming pool. The hike down (beau- a swimming pool. The hike less scenic; just tiful) and up (menacing) is very don’t be expecting a pristine therapeutic hot the bottom. spring when you reach near the Rarámuri Creel, that’s 22km south of of village on the way, including de los Hongos Valle The photogenic respectively. this area. is also in nearby ejido. among the and small homes in caves live farmlands, deep canyons, dra- waterfalls, matic rock formations and a 200-sq-km for- Creel. 7.5km south of thick pine trees, est of lake, greenish A lovely the tions. One tip: the (Rekowata Hot Springs) on the or more and the springs are just lukewarm AROUND CREEL AROUND CREEL natural won- in is rich around Creel The area and everything from waterfalls offering ders, and speckled boulders hot springs to massive only a are which parklands, all of expansive from town. Local ride or drive bike day’s hike, or, even guided tours, of a variety guides offer out on your own on a you can venture better, or truck. bicycle, scooter rented Sights & Activities Just 2km outside town is the its tra- rock formations inspired vertical where ditional Rarámuri meaning name, Bisabírachi, a It makes Penises.’ the Erect of the ‘Valley you and takes nice full-day trip on horseback, named valleys past some other animatedly have been reported on it, so travel at your it, so travel on been reported have own risk. TRAIN station train from the is half a block Creel’s westbound The main plaza. and 11:15am, at about Creel train departs the closerit’s been to noon); the known to arrive 3:24pm and at about eastbound trains depart and they 6pm. However, greatly times vary for p343 See late. usually on the schedule are ticket information. 456-00-36; www x ( (www.umarike.com.mx;) Half/ 456-00-45; Av López Mateos 11) 456-00-45; Av COBRE •• Around Creel BARRANCA DEL x (

The Estrella Blanca bus station, just north The Estrella

The local bus to Batopilas (M$180, five The local bus to Batopilas (M$180, five Half/full day M$90/150. Half/full day though this road is very roughthough assaults and this road is very Rafael to Álamos via Bahuichivo, Témoris the Río Chinipas, and Chinipas, crossing a 4WD between Mesa Arturo and Tubares Arturo and Tubares a 4WD between Mesa (about 70km). Or you could go from San Arturo, Piedras Verdes, Tubares (there’s a a (there’s Tubares Arturo, Piedras Verdes, the Río San Miguel), Choix, over new bridge will need that you Note and on to El Fuerte. Rafael. San Rafael, From a new road there’s de connecting Bahuichivo, Cerocahui, Mesa There’s now a paved road all the way road all the way now a paved There’s to Divisadero and on to San from Creel CAR & MOTORCYCLE CAR & MOTORCYCLE Saturday, and at 9:30am Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Towi on López Mateos, two blocks south of two blocks south of Towi on López Mateos, and the plaza, at 7:30am Tuesday, Thursday Blanca also has three daily buses to San RafaelBlanca also has three via Divisadero (M$4, one (M$47, 1½ hours) hour) and Posada Barrancas (Areponápuchi; daily at M$40, one hour); they depart Creel and 6pm. 10:20am, 2:20pm La and Cuauhtémoc Junta (M$90, 2½ hours) on the way. Estrella hours) (M$124, three buses to Chihuahua (M$190, 4½ hours), pass- buses 4½ hours), to Chihuahua (M$190, ing through San Juanito (M$25, 45 minutes), 4½ hours) at 6:45am, 9am, 11:30am, 1pm and at 6:45am, 9am, 4½ hours) two companies. the 3pm. This is the nicer of Noroeste, has nine daily Autotransportes of San Rafael via Divisadero (M$48, 1¼ hours) 2:30pm and (M$37, one hour) at 10:30am, 6:30pm, and buses Chihuahua (M$190, to The Autotransportes Noroeste bus station,The Autotransportes runs buses the tracks from the plaza, across to convenient via bus than train, as the trips than train, as the trips via bus convenient flexible. more and the schedules shorter are Travel between Creel and Chihuahua, as well between Creel Travel and Divisadero,as betweenmore may be Creel BUS BUS UmarikeExpediciones Casa Margarita sible by pedal power. pedal sible by 3Amigos Canyon Expeditions Several and the sur- out bicycles, places rent acces- has many places rounding countryside Getting There & Around Around There & Getting BICYCLE lonelyplanet.com full day M$120/180. Includes map, helmet and tool kit. helmet and full day M$120/180. Includes map, .amigos3.com; Av López Mateos López M$90/150. 46) Half/full day .amigos3.com; Av hours) leaves from outside Artesanías El from outside Artesanías El leaves hours) NORTHWEST MEXICO meals M$800/$1600) the US800-648-8488;www.coppercanyonlodge.com; s/dincl and displayingitscollectionof centuries-old ceilings, kerosene lamps(there’s no electric- lodge withcomfyroomsrustic beamed Excellent meals are served inafine olddin- meals areExcellent served stoves (tworoomshave workingfireplaces). showers withplenty of hotwater, andpotbelly pinefurniture, white robes, fluffy ity), carved the lake, for M$15. pitch attent ineitherspot,aswellaround ofincludes theuse arowboat.Youcanalso makeover (new carpets,newbathrooms)and south shore Arareko, of justreceived Lago a deSegórachi Cabaña own campingstove). Themore comfortable cabins withsmallkitchen areas (bringyour munal kitchen, aswellfive newindividual dividual rooms,plushotshowers andacom- cabins, whicheitherbunkbedsorin- contain de Batosárachi options. The to)oneoftransportation the aspotat(andarrange for you canreserve Av Creel) LópezMateos, Most willfeed you, too. with campsites, others withcozy bedrooms. from–some rusticplacestochoose several like there. tospendthenight Theregion has roundings foradaytrip,youmaydecideyou’d Once youget outintoCreel’s naturalsur- Sleeping &Eating and touch them. toreach enough andyoufeel out close base, one stunningrainbowafter theotheratits bottom. Ifyougoatmidday,thesuncreates its rim,butit’sdamnnearmiraculousatthe beautiful fromthethree viewpointsaround lenge, it’sworthit.Theviewsof thefallsare a longwaytogobutifyou’re upforthechal- walk backup,andthenthereturn drive. It’s a one-hourhike tothebottom,twohours to to visit,thanksabumpythree-hour drive, 140km northwestof Creel, andtakes afullday full-timefallsinMexico.highest is Basaseachi de Basaseachi Cusárare isavisitto regional churches and missions. paintings thatwere foundwastingawayin h Cusárare isthe 354 Copper Canyon SierraLodge Copper Canyon Complejo EcoturísticoArareko Even more dramatic thanthewaterfall in 10am-5pm Wed-Mon) ARNADLCBE • aoia BARRANCA DELCOBRE••Batopilas , where you’llfind,at246m,the

(r M$100-150) ejido is an atmospheric mountain isanatmosphericmountain has an office inCreel, hasanoffice where Loyola Museum (d M$250) operates two lodges.

, dedicated to preserving , dedicated topreserving Parque Nacional offers three rusticlog , alarge cabinonthe

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(admission M$15; 635-456-00-36, in 635-456-01-26; s various

Cascada Cascada Caba ń as range daytrips;thethree- tofour-day trek to or a20-minute drive. Anyhotel canhelpar- canyon. It’salong8kmhike alongtheriver, that wasdiscovered inaremote, uninhabited anelaborate atSatevó, cathedral Cathedral) and spectacular –journey. and spectacular the canyontownof Uriqueis alsoapopular– lar excursions istothe receive electricity).Oneof themostpopu- towninMexico wasthesecond Batopilas to tory toexplore (quirkyfact:after Mexico City, there’s out.However, big nights plentyof his- call 10pmonweekends –sodon’texpectany of theplace. Thingsshutupearlyhere –last isenjoyingthestuck-in-timefeel Batopilas warm little village. climates and vegetative zones,endingina canyons, several descents andascentsthrough at Creel, –withdramatic to495matBatopilas is athrillingride–fromanaltitudeof 2338m, intocanyoncountry.Thejourney way deep thatyouhaveyou canbesatisfied madeyour silver-mining village 140kmsouthof Creel, dirt roadto aserene 19th-century Batopilas, If youmake italive twisting downthesteep, x BATOPILAS (yes, that’s ing room.Therates above includemargaritas like Jesus, youcan go elsewhere. ifyoudon’t says Juanita gather intheevening. yard overlooking theriver, alovely placeto come complete withcrucifixes, plusacourt- M$250/400; information. and cuisineandhelpwithlocalguides Rarámuri Alcaraz, whowillchat yourearoff, fixyou the homespuncharacter of Monse thehouse, nomical roomsare cleanerandcomewith eco- downtheplaza,butthese Hotel Batopilas Bare-bones backpackers favor thedecaying Monse Casa Sleeping afavordo yourself andbe vigilant here. Foreign tourists aren’t usuallytargeted, but an upsurge inrobberiesandkidnappings. grinding halt.As aresult, thetownhasseen effectively bringingthe localeconomytoa the marijuanacropsinsurroundingarea, around theedges. recently Themilitary razed Like Urique, Batopilas can be a little rough Like canbealittlerough Urique,Batopilas The biggest activityonceyouarrive at Hotel Juanita’s Hotel 649 /pop1200elevation495m na

plural ( x 456-90-27; Plaza Principal; rM$120) 456-90-27; PlazaPrincipal; ) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

These cleanandbasic rooms These ( ). x 456-90-43; Plaza Principal; s/d 456-90-43; PlazaPrincipal; Catedral Perdida Catedral (Lost

NORTHWEST MEXICO 355 Serves a a Serves Its patio is also Its patio is also © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 456-90-23; mains M$50-130; 456-90-23; mains x (

micheladas. micheladas. 11am-9pm Sun-Wed, 11am-10pm Fri11am-9pm Sun-Wed, Sat) & El Puente Colgante Better to join a tour group or hire an experi- Better to join a tour group or hire in Creel. enced driver floor). The cheapest trip is on the 20-seatfloor). The cheapest pub- is usually crowded which lic bus from Creel, (M$180, Monday hours at least five and takes to to Saturday). It is not advisable to return or Saturday – on on Tuesday, Thursday Creel these more days, the ‘bus’ is actually a much cramped seven-seat Chevy and the Suburban, crams as many people in as possible driver occasion). Though(11 and a baby on our it goes (M$370, eight all the way to Chihuahua uncom- on thesehours) days, it is extremely Additionally, fortable and shockingly unsafe. priority seating to Chihuahua get passengers from Both depart those going to Creel. over at 5am. You can also the church the front of though it’s not recom- a truck and drive, rent and narrow. steep mended as the road is very on a wonderful antique stove. There is no is no There stove. antique on a wonderful with day each choices just a few menu, vegetarian possibilities. delicious stuffed seasoned trout, and steak of pitchers savory early nightcap. for an a good spot Getting There & Away town, and it’s not just one road in to There’s down the heart. It slithers for the faint of a outline of the canyon following the side of fall to the longer (with a much Christmas tree h and and COBRE •• Batopilas BARRANCA DEL in Creel 635-456-02-45; in Creel

x ( huevos rancheros huevos 456-90-45; Donato Guerra 1; r 1; r Donato Guerra 456-90-45; If you don’t want to deal If you don’t want to deal A little Sierra Madre oasis oasis Sierra Madre A little ) An excellent spot for An excellent spot for x (

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(Plaza de la Constitución; mains M$40-90; (Plaza de la Constitución; mains M$40-90;

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Doña Mica Carolina La Hacienda Río Batopilas Real de Minas

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. pancakes for breakfast, and other Mexican and other Mexican for breakfast, pancakes the day. specialties throughout

‘restaurants’ consist of a few tables on the tables on the a few consist of ‘restaurants’ home. private a or patio of porch Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking experience, as most Eating is an intimate here dows and gorgeous tiled bathrooms and bath- dows and gorgeous serves restaurant tubs. An onsite breakfast The downside is that it’s a good and dinner. from town. half-hour walk rooms feature beautiful exposed beautiful cobblestone rooms feature win- ceilings, stained-glass walls, wood-beam digs, a 1760 hacienda run by the samedigs, a 1760 hacienda run folks The sizable in Creel. who own Casa Margarita with the uncertainty of the sometimes open, with the uncertainty of this is top Lodge, sometimes closed Riverside s/d incl meals M$600/1000) were surely designed for Oompa–Loompas for Oompa–Loompas designed surely were and Ewoks. an annex just down the road with six airy and down the road with six an annex just and a doors with orange rooms immaculate however, low doorknobs, The peaceful vibe. M$526.50; M$526.50; Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book h 60; home-cooked Mexican meals prepared prepared meals Mexican home-cooked with eight around brightly rooms decorated courtyard with a fountain as well as a lovely