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CapeCod.indb 57 3/8/16 2:59 PM 61 capecodinnhyannis.com, May-late Oct., $75- baked goods—guarantees there’s no excuse 200 d) has a restaurant and an indoor swim- for leaving hungry. ming pool. Celebrate something truly special with Hosteling International in Hyannis dinner at Pain D’Avignon (15 Hinckley Rd., (111 Ocean St., 508/775-7990 or 877/683- 508/788-8588, http://paindavignon.com, CAPE COD CAPE 7990, http://www.hiusa.org, 8am-10am and counter 7am-5pm daily, dinner 5:30-close M i d-C ape 3pm-10pm late May-early Oct., dorm $29-39, Tues.-Sun. Jun.-Sept., Thu.-Sat. 5:30-close rooms $79-175) is in a private house that was Oct.-May, $30), one of the Cape’s finest French donated to create the Hyannis hostel, reno- dining spots, and also an excellent bakery. vated in 2010. It’s airy and close to everything During the day it’s a casual bistro with simple Hyannis has to offer, including the bus sta- sit-down or take-out fare, but in the evening tion and both ferry terminals. Best of all, it’s the white tablecloths come out along with can- genuinely affordable, though you’ll want to dles, and if you squint, you might think you’re reserve far in advance to ensure a bed in the in Paris rather than Cape Cod. The food is ex- prime summer months. Note that check-in is cellent—this is one of the few places where you 3pm-10pm, but guests have 24-hour access. can find French specialties like foie gras and truffles. Bring someone special, and prepare FOOD to enjoy. Don’t be afraid to take a loaf of bread Persy’s Place (247 Main St., 508/790-8200, or two home with you as well. Baked that day, http://persysplace.com, 7am-3pm daily year- it’s so fresh it will keep for days even in the round, $7-16) is part of a small regional humid summer’s heat. chain of eateries known for their prodigious You can get pizza at the lighter-fare back menus. A head-spinning num- room of the Roadhouse Café (488 South ber of options, locally traditional St., 508/775-2386, www.roadhousecafe.com, cornmeal johnnycakes, at least four daily 4pm-9pm Sun.-Thurs., 4pm-10pm Fri.-Sat., quiches, chipped beef on toast, finnan haddie $20-35), but most folks choose to sit up front, (smoked ) for homesick Scots, om- amid the nautical tchotchkes, and order lob- elets with or without , and even cat- ster or steak. At the Black Cat Tavern (165 fish or —not to mention all manner of Ocean St., 508/778-1233, www.blackcattavern.

Pain D’Avignon’s chic exterior

CapeCod.indb 61 3/8/16 2:59 PM