IPMS ORANGE COUNTY
Newsletter – November 2020 Volume 28 No. 11
Southern California’s Premier Model Club
The President’s Column By David P. Frederick In This Issue Due to continuing Covid-19 virus shelter in Table of Contents Page place/distancing rules imposed by Federal and State Meeting Time and Place 3 Government the October IPMS Orange County Monthly Contest Themes 4 meeting is cancelled. Financials 6 Website Update 6 Pictured is the award for the International Plastic Modelers’ Society IPMS USA Membership 7 Region 8 Chapter of the Region 2020. The IPMS Orange County IPMS OC Membership 9 chapter has done it again with a congratulations to all members from IPMS USA Natl. Convention 10 the Director of Local Chapters, Dave Lockhart. Although, 2020 has been closed to pandemic issues and the IPMS nationals as well as the What Have You Been Working 12 Orange-Con (it was planned to be the regional contest) has been The Complete Book of Plastic 18 cancelled. The IPMS Orange County has many attributes to be proud Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T 21 of in the last year. Comparison Build StuG III 29 Orange-Con 2019 LED Lighting Kits 36 Building the 1918 John Deere 38 Orange-Con 2019 featured vendors but is Club Meetings / Events 52 most known for the contest portion of the event with 46 contest categories as well as special theme awards and some 500 models entered. Our event has proven to be the largest event in our Region. Orange-Con 2019 was hosted at a new venue with attendees from five states and Northern California. The movement from the State University to Fullerton Hotel allowed for the partial opening of the model room during judging. This was a new and welcomed benefit for the event. A record number of spectators joined us from the hotel which
helped admission revenue. It is our belief that Orange-Con is so well supported by participants and vendors from these great distances due to the quality of its competition and the fairness of judging as we use the IPMS/USA Rules and Judging Criteria
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
The President’s Column
IPMS Orange County’s Newsletter
Terry Huber is the IPMS Chapter newsletter and editor of the year. He has been the current Editor since 2013. Newsletter considerations and facts: The newsletter contains the IPMS/USA membership application right up front in the newsletter along with the IPMS /USA web site The Chapter officers and volunteers are listed Each newsletter contains a listing of upcoming contests by Region 8 chapters along with contests in region 9 and 10 along with the contest flyers when available The newsletter is consistently published days prior to the club meeting and to literally a world-wide audience The additional travelogues to historical places by club members with modeling tie-ins have been well received across the country, and the layout is polished 2017 and 2018 National award for Newsletter and Editor. IPMS Orange County Web Site
Julian English has developed a new design and functionality to the IPMSOC.ORG web site. The new look and feel are far more visual then before, but the web site still retains a high level of information. Sections cover our Chapter’s activities, information about IPMS/USA as well as links to the IPMSUSA.ORG site. Naturally, there are results of monthly meetings, our annual Orange-Con contest as well as articles and reviews. ULRs are frequently checked for functionality along with all included links. The design includes category tabs that allows navigation to related posts or links including links to IPMS/USA sites. The site includes links to our OCIPMS chapter newsletters archives (six months and older). Finely, the site contains an updated calendar which includes all local modeling related activities including other clubs meeting times and events. My hopes are to continue the momentum that we have with the club next year. At this point it is hard to guess when it will be safe to meet as a club again. Monitor your emails as when we get a green light from the hotel, we will let you know and hope to see your smiley faces (even if it is behind a mask) at an IPMS meeting.
Stay safe, stay healthy and enjoy the hobby… David Frederick
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Meeting Notice & Agenda Date: MEETING CANCELLED THEME: was Shelf of Doom Doors Open: Not yet. Location: La Quinta Inn & Suites 3 Centerpointe Drive La Palma, CA 90623 Right Off the 91 Fwy at Valley View 2020 Chapter Officers
President David Frederick
1st Vice President Sean Fallesen
2nd Vice President Position Retired
Treasurer Jeff Hunter
Secretary Split Duties – Nat Richards – Badges or “batches” Mike Budzeika – Scribe Gordon Zuther – Audio
Contest Director Dan Matthews
Volunteers Chapter Contact Mark “The Duke” Deliduka [email protected]
Newsletter Editor Terry Huber (714) 544-8908 [email protected]
Webmaster Julian English [email protected]
Mail IPMS Orange County Club Website www.ipmsoc.org P.O. Box 913 Garden Grove, CA 92842 National Website [email protected] www.ipmsusa.org
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Orange County Contest Themes for 2020 JANUARY - First Class: Any subject that was the first or lead in its type or class FEBRUARY - Tri-Motor: any subject that through intentional design possesses three power plants. Last Meeting at La Quinta, MARCH - Korea 1950 – 1953: Any subject in use during the years on or off the Korean peninsula APRIL - Black out: any subject whose paint job is predominantly black MAY - Spanish Civil War: Any subject (in appropriate paint and markings) actively involved in the Spanish Civil War July 17, 1936 – April 1, 1939 JUNE - Russian Road to Berlin: Any subject in use by any parties in the engagement zone covered by the Russian advance to Berlin. JULY - High: Any subject, auto, armor, aircraft etc. in a high visibility colorful or predominately white and bright paint, no greens or greys AUGUST - Low: Any subject, auto, armor, aircraft etc. in a low visibility paint scheme; primarily grey or green, no hi visibility colorful white etc.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Orange County Contest Themes for 2020
SEPTEMBER - From a Picture: Any subject made to replicate, in detail, (i.e. same marking, vehicle number etc.), a picture found in a personal collection or from a published source (including internet) showing an adequate portion of the subject to make certain the model represents the subject in its entirety. The model does not have to but may if you so wish, include the background in a diorama/ vignette format; or it may be just the subject. The picture used as reference must be included with proper reference citation and presented itself in a format no larger than 5”x7” and placed on the table along with the entry detail sheet and model. OCTOBER – BUILD NIGHT - NO Contest: Bring in your newly acquired kits from OrangeCon or grab that shelf of doom kit for next month’s meeting, anyway you want, come and enjoy an evening of building models together. ORANGECON 2020 October 10th, 2020 Hotel Fullerton NOVEMBER - Shelf of Doom: Any subject you’ve had on your shelf of doom or recently acquired thru the distressed kits auction DECEMBER - Non-Traditional: Vacuum, Resin, Paper “Non-Injection” media any subject JANUARY - Tribal: Any subject with a Native American or “nonwestern name”: i.e. Iroquois, Pontiac, Apache, etc.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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From Our Treasurer Current Financial Statistics as of November 2020
In the bank: $ 6873.99
The current financials are the same as before, small changes may occur due to interest or other. Once the meetings are able to begin again the financial page will be updated and published.
If you have noticed that the OCIPMS website has looked a little different lately, you are not wrong. The base program - Word Press, did a major update in March and our old site didn’t like it. First the slider (home page rotating pictures) disappeared and later, the home page layout rearranged itself (plus a few other issues). I had been working with our site hosting manager for a fix, but it was not possible to repair. So, I have been working on a new site built with the new Word Press program as a base. The new site is now complete and went live on November 14th. The old site has years of archived data and the new site will not be able to carry all of it forward, however, I am working on a link to the old site for those that may want to look up some older information (still pending). The Covid break has allowed me to work on the new site and we have not lost any new information since we haven’t met in months. Below is a screen shot of the new site home page and a link to the new site here: http://www.ipmsoc.org/ If you have any questions and recommendations, just shoot me an e-mail. I hope all the members like the new site layout. JE
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Or use Form on next page….
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November 2020
Club Membership Renewal Form Print this page, fill it out and bring it to the meeting. It is also available on-line at www.ipmsoc.org.
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IPMS National Convention Location 2021 Las Vegas, NV
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
David Lombard Here's a model I built back in May.
Flagship Models 1/72 Alligator submarine.
This is a model of the 1st USN submarine, built in the Civil War. It was contemporaneously called the Alligator based on its appearance. It seems that the model was based on a drawing claiming to be of the vessel. Later information showed the drawing to be inaccurate in some critical aspects. Most importantly though, the self-feathering oar-based propulsion system was actually the original construction. The oars were soon replaced with a more conventional screw. While the oars weren't successful, the vessel had a snorkel, an air purifying system, and an airlock enabling a diver to leave and return while submerged. The weight suspended by a chain was supposed to enable better depth control. Not quite sure how that would work absent flood-able ballast tanks.
I added Archer Fine Detail resin rivets to repair miscast instances and construction damage; replaced the oars with more in-scale parts that are also consistent with contemporaneous drawings; replaced the forward snorkel, dive planes, oar guards, rudder, and skeg with more in-scale parts. Mr. Color paint was used.
I also attached a photo of Cottage Industries' 1/72 HUNLEY, a Confederate counterpart.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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David Lombard Flagship Models 1/72 Alligator submarine.
Here's the model I built for the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain.
Airfix 1/48 Hurricane Mk.1, 303 Sqn, Sept, 1940, RF-F, V6684
This is the new Airfix kit. It was actually the Tropical boxing, but the sprues have parts for the Mk.I, Mk.I Tropical, and Mk.IA Naval. I used Techmod's 48025 Hawker Hurricane Mk. I decals to represent an aircraft flown by Witold Urbanowicz, who was the second highest-scoring Polish fighter ace, with 17 confirmed wartime kills and 1 probable. Mr Color paint was used. 13
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David Lombard Airfix 1/48 Hurricane Mk.1, 303 Sqn, Sept, 1940, RF-F, V6684
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Bob Penikas Lelievlet This model sat incomplete in garage storage due to loss of interest and more exciting modeling projects that came along. I decided to finish it.
"The Lelievlet is the most commonly used steel sailing and rowing boat of the Sea Scouts of Scouting Nederland, it is also used by many Sea Scouts in Flanders and the National Water Activities Centre (NWAC) of Scouting Ireland in Killaloe, Ireland. Its design is based upon the beenhakkervlet, a type of steel dinghy often used with cargo riverboats, and its name is derived from the international Scout logo, the Scout lily." Paper model is 5 3/4 inches long, 2 inches wide and seven inches tall.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Bob Penikas US Coast Guard Response Boat Small (RB-S) Model: 7 inches long, 2 1/4 inches wide and 3 1/8 inches high.
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Walt Fink
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The Complete Book Of Plastic Models
As modelers we buy more books then most people. We buy books on topics we like, the subjects of the models we plan to build, history in general and other topics that mean something to us. Occasionally, you come across and old book you have never seen or even heard of before. One of these books is the topic of this review, which in all honesty, isn’t really so much a review but a commentary on how things have changed in the modeling world in the sixty, yes, 60 years since this book was written.
The book is entitled: The Complete Book Of Plastic Model Kits. The cover of the book proudly proclaims that: “For The First Time, The Basics Of Plastic Model Building” and that the book was: “Prepared By The Advisory Board of the Aurora Plastics Corporation”. The book was published in September of 1961 now fifty-nine years old. If the front cover was not enough to hook your attention, the back cover tells the reader that: “Here at last a complete, authoritative guide to plastic model kits, written both for beginners and for seasoned model builders.” The final statement tells us that “The Complete Book of Plastic Model Kits is the only book of its kind…chock full of tested, proven advice and creative, imaginative suggestions….” Wow, all that in only 160 pages! My copy is the original 1961 printing. Somehow I doubt there was a second printing. Its cover is worn, marked by a now illegible embossed ex-libris stamp and the pages are yellowed with a brown perimeter from age.
Okay, let’s be real. Things have changed a lot since this book was written. Who exactly wrote this? We don’t know their names, but I can pretty much guarantee that it was some guys from the Aurora Model Corporation’s marketing department. Back in 1960 Aurora was one of the big players in the industry and they were on a drive to expand modeling. A look at the cover of their 1960 catalog shows a man, his son and daughter all working on models with a bookshelf full of completed models on display behind them. During that era Aurora was making models of animals, birds and figure like the Dutch Boy and Girl pictured on the table in an effort to attract women and girls to modeling…something that, sadly, didn’t really
work out in the long run.
The first chapter of the book begins: “Model making – or the building of miniature representations of objects – has been with us since the dawn of time. This fact has been borne out by the archeologists’ excavations which have unearthed examples of craftsmanship ranging from the very crudest to some of the finest works of art our world has known.” All of that is certainly true. Model building is one of the 18 oldest hobbies known to man. Did you know that?
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
The Complete Book Of Plastic Models
Yes, thousands of years ago someone slaved for weeks on a model a saber-toothed cat, upon showing it to a friend, the friend told him that the color were not right for that species…and so was born the “Color Nazi” we all know and love today. Historically, model building goes back nearly 5,000 years to when the Egyptians built scale models of palaces, boats and other things to include in the tombs of the Pharaohs. Seriously the development of the plastic model, which really took off in the 1950s led to a great increase in modeling. The book explains that, according to the “Family Opinion Poll” sponsored by the Monsanto Chemical Company – (You know them, the people that brought the world LEDs, Astroturf, and future carcinogens PCBs, Agent Orange and Roundup.) – the poll revealed that “90 percent of the boys aged eight to fifteen built plastic models”. Boy has that changed over sixty years! If it’s 10% today I’d be really surprised. The same paragraph goes on to state: “26 per cent of the males aged 21 and over.” build models. That too has definitely changed, though adult males are not the majority of modelers, there are a lot fewer today than in 1961. The same survey also said that: “Aircraft and jets account for 27 percent of kits purchased; automobiles 29%; ships and boat make up 20% of the market; rockets and space vehicles 9%; Tanks 6%; and everything else 9%. If that was actually accurate in 1961 it has really changed too. The second chapter helps the modeler prepare to model. It lists 28 items of tools and equipment a modeler will find useful. The first six are labeled ‘Essential’. They include: Glue, Toothpicks, 3 Soft Cloths (one to clean hands, one to apply decals and one to apply polishes and waxes, then there is the cautionary note that they ‘are not interchangeable.’; Razor blades; a bowl for applying decals; and a pair of scissors for cutting parts off the parts trees (sprues) and cutting the decals (please note, that there is no warning against using one pair of scissors to do both). Interestingly an airbrush did make the list of ‘optional’ equipment, but only number 25. The section on actually assembling the model is entitled “The Fun Begins” and can be summarized as: Follow the directions. It does provide an illustrated section on how to use rubber bands and clothes pins to assure the parts stay tight while the glue dries. One useful instruction is that, to fill gaps, you dissolve ‘shavings from the parts trees’ in glue and apply it to the gap. About the same era, Airfix Magazine (then about the only magazine focused on plastic modeling) advised to add talcum powder to ‘clear dope’ to make a paste and use that to fill the gaps. My favorite chapter is entitled “Making Use Of Your Finished Models”. In this chapter it discusses using them as ‘Home Décor’ by making a mobile of a number of models; making them into bookends; converting them to cigarette dispensers and ashtrays; and my personal favorite, making a submarine model into a tie rack…(I
dare you to do it!!!!) 19
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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The Complete Book Of Plastic Models
The final chapter includes operational things you can do with your models. This includes: making them in to slot cars; adding CO2 or Jet-X (if you don’t know what that is, ask me next time we see each other) engines so they will rocket across the floor (no mention is made on how to prevent them from impacting the baseboard).
There is a somewhat useful, but vague chapter about adding electric motors to cars and boats, but the real gas (no pun intended) is how to turn your Aurora B-25 (the one recently re-issued by Atlantis) in to a flying, control-line model powered by two .060 gas engines. For those of you who don’t know what Control-Line flying is all about. You have a handle in your hand which has two strings that go out to the model and work the elevators which are used to maintain and/or change altitude in flight as the human (you) pivot in a circle around, and around, and around until the model impacts the ground. The part they don’t mention is the concept of one of these plastic models hurtling through the air at 20-plus miles an hour impacting the ground…can we say ‘Only Once’? Well, then again, the book is a product of the Aurora Marketing Department…perhaps that did help them sell some more models. An enjoyable read. Not so much for its actual information as it is for it simplicity bordering on naivety, but still an enjoyable read. Nat Richards
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car Another build by Michael Bare In the newsletter several months ago, Foster Rash and Steve Taylor proposed a hot rod group build. I responded that I did have a Model T car but it came with figures of Laurel and Hardy. I didn’t think they would drive a hot rod unless they could get a good comedy routine out of it. Steve and Foster said to join them anyway so I did. I’m glad that I did as I had fun building a car for the first time in many years. Plus, I had two experts who gladly answered all my questions when asked. Back in the 1960’s, I built the Aurora car kits of the 1966 Batmobile, the Green Hornet Black Beauty and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. I also built an AMT kit of the Stutz Bearcat used in the TV series called Bearcats! As you know, I’m really into Movies and TV stuff. I fell in love with the Model T Touring car after seeing the 1961 Disney film, The Absent-Minded Professor. Sometime in the early 2000’s, I saw this kit on eBay and purchased it.
Box art. This kit was produced by AMT. I couldn’t find a copyright or release date on either the box or the instruction sheet. That surprised me. An online site I found said the kit was released in 1976. The kit inside was an AMT Model T Touring car and included the figures of Mr. Laurel & Mr. Hardy. They were molded to look somewhat like their cartoon and comic book images. Larry Harmon, the original Bozo the Clown and owner of the Bozo empire, had acquired their image rights in the mid-1960’s. Harmon, along with the Hanna-Barbara Studios, produced 156 animated shorts between 1966 to 1967. I don’t know when the comic books were produced.
As I prepared to build the kit, I realized I hadn’t opened the box since I had purchased it. After taking inventory, I found that there were parts missing as well as extra parts. Foster said the kit probably included parts that would be used to make it into a hot rod. Foster named off a few items like cams for the engine and there they were. He was able to supply me with the missing items. As he told me, he doesn’t buy all the miscellaneous car kits at the Distressed Auctions for nothing! 21
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
I was surfing on YouTube and saw a compilation of clips from Laurel and Hardy films that showed their misadventures with Model T’s. Those comedy routines really got me laughing. I then searched Amazon Prime to see if they had any of the silent shorts available for free. One they had was a two reeler called ’Leave ‘em Laughing. Produced in 1928 by Hal Roach, directed by Leo McCarey (director of the classic Marx Brothers film Duck Soup) and released by MGM. The plot goes like this: Stan wakes up in the middle of the night with a terrible toothache. Ollie tries a series of home-made remedies which instead causes damage to their rented room. The next morning, Ollie takes Stan to the dentist to have the tooth pulled. Of course, Ollie ends up getting a tooth pulled by mistake. To ease Ollie’s pain, Stan opens a tank of laughing gas and soon they and the whole office are laughing uncontrollably. Leaving the dentist’s office still laughing, they get in their Model T and cause a traffic jam. They also tangle with a frustrated traffic cop played by Edgar Kennedy, another comedy legend. PS: He too was in Duck Soup.
I thought the Model T from this short would be the perfect thing to model my kit after. I soon googled several stills to use as I built the model.
Edgar Kennedy, King of the Slow Burn
After choosing to duplicate the Model T as seen in this short, I saw that there were several parts of the kit that I wouldn’t need. For example; the roof, the windshield, the horn, the spare tire and the bumpers. Several noticeable things I’d need to reproduce were the overall distressed look of the car, the area on the driver’s side that looked like that section could have been replaced or painted differently. Also, I wanted to duplicate the very used tires. I started with the main body of the car. Many of the Model T’s were painted black, a color Foster told me Henry Ford had a paint company formulate. After I painted the body in basic acrylic black, I tried covering that area with a gloss coat lacquer. I wasn’t satisfied so after trying a few more things, I ending up painting that area with an acrylic charcoal. I think it matches. 22
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
The tires that came with the kit looked like they were fresh from the factory. To make the tires look worn, I searched online to find a method to do it. I found a YouTube video where a car modeler uses a dremel on his tires. He can make the thread and the sides look like they’ve been on the road for many miles. He can even can make it appear like there’s no thread at all. I tried it on one and really liked the look. I used Poly Scale Dirt paint to add the unpaved street dirt.
The “worn” tire is on the left I wanted to add touches of rust. I had never used rust on a kit before. I found an old jar of Poly Scale Rust. I looked at various photos on the web and dry brushed the kit to my satisfaction. I was relieved that Steve and Foster complemented my first weathering techniques. Mr.’s Laurel and Hardy’s main torsos came in two parts but they were glue bombs. I think whoever glued them together used Elmer’s as I was able to pull them apart and reglue them. The arms were complete but stand-alone parts. I didn’t want to glue them in place as I was thinking of being able to move them into different positions occasionally. I came up with the idea of making their arms move through the use of magnets! For many years, when I would build my figure models, I’d permanently pin the figures to a base. Clement Eng gave me the idea to use magnets. He showed me how he uses them to connect the various parts of his Gundam kits together. Since then, I use K&J Magnets to easily connect or disconnect the figure from its base. This makes it easier to pack the kit up. For the Laurel and Hardy figures, I was able to use a small hand drill to create holes in their arms and bodies to place the small magnets I used. Now I can move their arms instead of having them glued in a fixed position. I also learned that when I placed them in the front seat, I needed to keep them as far apart as I could from each other. Otherwise their magnets could attract and they looked very cozy.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
Steve and Foster were also a wealth of information. Not only in auto kit building techniques but basic car information. I learned that the Model T’s steering wheel might look like it was upside down on the steering column but that’s how it was made. I learned that Henry Ford had a cheap black paint developed which was used on practically every Model T. It made moving the cars through the assembly line more efficient without having to switch to different colors. The cheap paint also lined Henry’s pockets more. I use acrylic paints the majority of the time. Mostly Delta Ceramcoat but with this build I used Model Master Acrylic or Tamiya too. Of course, the majority of the car was plain black. Parts of the engine and the fire wall I used Drizzle Gray, Gunship Gray, Bronze, Hammered Iron, Charcoal, Flat White, and Crimson Red. For the car seats, I used Burnt Umber. Mr. Hardy’s clothing was Black, with White for his shirt. His eyes are Brown. Mr. Laurel’s clothing was Velvet Brown, White on his shirt and his eyes are Blue. Their flesh was different shades of flesh from light to dark. I used a semi-gloss lacquer for their hat bands. I dull coated practically everything else. I started assembling in sections like most of us usually do. I assembled the engine and put it aside for painting. The wheels were a little tricky. The spokes were very fragile and had to be positioned in a certain way. A few broke but I thought that would add to the worn look. The chassis took a little more time. I had painted it all black already and carefully sanded the paint off the areas where I would glue the parts together. I used the Tamiya Thin for most of the kit. I had trouble with the pieces still coming apart. At first, I just used plain CA glue but had to go to a CA glue that took longer to set so I could make sure I had fitted the parts together properly. After I had glued the fender assembly to the chassis, the drive shaft came off of the rear spring. I put extra CA on the two connection points and realized I now had a little extra area there. I had a small brainstorm. I used Model Master Acryl Steel on that glue area to make it appear like they had the drive shaft soldered to the rear spring. I dry brushed the steel with a little black to make it look like some oil and dirt had covered part of the soldered area. I thought it came out well.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
When it came time to glue the steering wheel to the column, I didn’t want to glue it on and when I put Mr. Hardy in the driver’s seat, his hands wouldn’t be on the wheel. Steve told me his trick. He glues the wheel onto the hands of the figure, sets the figure in the driver’s seat and then glues the wheel on the steering column. I used some tacky glue to attach Mr. Hardy’s hands to the wheel and then glued the wheel onto the column. It worked!
The license plates that came with the kit had molded on them a license I didn’t want. It read “Michigan” on top, some numbers in the middle and “Historic Vehicle” on the bottom. I sanded the plates blank. My “advisory” group suggested I look online for some real plates. I found an image of an actual California license plate from 1927. I was hoping to find the image of the same license number used in the short but the number I found was close enough. After a couple tries, I was able to print copies of the 1927 plate in the size I needed and Elmer’s Glued them to the plates. I think they give the right touch to the kit.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
I like to paint lights like the navigational lights of the PT 73, a certain way that I think gives them an extra pop. With the rear lights of the Model T, I base coated them with chrome from a Molotov chrome pen and let dry. I covered that area with Tamiya Clear Red paint and when that was dry, I coated it with Gloss lacquer. I like the little shimmer this gives them.
I don’t remember the Aurora or the other cars I built long ago having an engine. This kit did. The hood was even molded where you could lightly score it so you could display it opened. I wasn’t going to do that but I thought I’d try my hand and try a little customizing. I’ve seen the amazing engines that car master modeler’s build. Foster sent me some spark plug wire and added it to the engine. I googled Model T engine pictures and did a little painting under the hood. I like the way my fuses came out.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
Another Covid kit is Done! Gosh, here I thought when I retired, I’d be building all the time. Some Honey Do’s as well as traveling has slowed me down a lot more than I wanted. It’s about the only good thing this pandemic has caused. Next, up? I’ll be finishing the 1941 serial Captain Marvel figure. Then I’ll be doing to do another Model T. I’ll be adapting the same kit that doesn’t include Mr. Laurel and Mr. Hardy into the Model T that I fell in love with years ago.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Laurel & Hardy 1927 Model T Touring Car
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Comparison Build 1/35 Scale StuG.III Ausf.G Dragon Smart Kit and Takom Blitz – Part 2 by Mike Budzeika Continuing on with part two of the comparison build. Dragon Kit Step 6
Step six is where the two kits go in completely different directions, The Dragon kit instructions are the assembly of the fenders which are separate from the upper hull. I attached all parts but a few PE brackets and the cable itself. Dragon kit Step 6 completed.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Comparison Build 1/35 Scale
Takom Kit Step 6 The tracks are attached in this step for the Takom kit, they are length and link runs. The top and bottom are single runs, when the tracks come up to and around the sprockets and idlers there are shorter straight runs and single links forming the connections to the longer runs. For the top lengths there is some track sag. I decided to deviate from the instructions and did step 7 before step 6 to attach the top of the hull because the fenders are not separate and I wanted to paint the lower potion before the tracks were assembled. There is some clean up to be done on these tracks as there are some knockout pin marks, but not too bad they are not on each link. Takom kit Step 6 completed. Left track run Right track run
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Comparison Build 1/35 Scale Dragon Kit Step 7 This step is the assembly of the cupola. It includes 6 clear periscopes plus the scissors scope which is optional. It has very nice details on the interior of the hatch. Dragon kit Step 7 completed.
Takom Kit Step 7 This step for the Takom kit has just two parts to be glued. The upper hull with the fenders as one piece and the lower front hull bolted on armor plate. Some extra hull parts from future steps are included in the picture. Takom kit Step 7 completed.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
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Comparison Build 1/35 Scale Dragon Kit Step 8 Step 8 is the fighting compartment assembly sans roof. It’s mainly the front bolt on armor of the fighting compartment plus the smoke grenade dischargers for each side, a feature is the dischargers can have a grenade in the cylinders or they can be empty, a nice touch. Also keep in mind not all early Stug G’s had the dischargers. I decided not to take pictures until step 10 as there is not much added until step 10 when the roof is applied.
Takom Kit Step 8
Step 8 of the Takom kit has mainly parts for the fenders including two PE troughs for the tow cable on each fender. There is also an upper hull bolted on armor plate and a Notek light, on the engine deck are the barrel cleaning rods. No picture taken for this step
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Comparison Build 1/35 Scale Dragon Kit Step 9 Step 9 is the radios for the inside of the fighting compartment plus some parts attaching the fighting compartment to the lower hull which are needed (C11+D13 and C16+D21). The radios are nicely done but in my opinion not needed for me as I paint the interior black so they would not really be seen. No picture taken for this step.
Takom Kit Step 9
Takom step 9 has parts attached to the upper hull. A few of the parts are photoetch, most of the parts are attached to the rear area of the upper hull such as vent covers, a tool box, the left side engine air cooling intake plus the PE screen, and some tools on the left fender.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Comparison Build 1/35 Scale
Dragon Kit Step 10 Step 10 assembles previous sub- assemblies of the fighting compartment which are the two radio assemblies, the roof, and the cupola. I did leave off the loaders hatch and the machine shield until painting. Dragon kit Step 10 completed.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Comparison Build 1/35 Scale
Takom Kit Step 10
Just more parts connected to the engine deck and left fender. Takom kit steps 8 – 10 completed.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Model Railroad LED Lighting Kits By Jake Holshuh I and a friend from the OCMRR (HO modular railroaders) group have been developing a kit that is used to light rail cars and buildings and avoid stealing track power on your model railroad.
What we found were some great locking reed switches which we have coupled with LED strips, resistors and battery holders, which can fit into tight spaces.
First, this is the "kit" that I made up with 9v holder, 12 light LED strip, resistor and switch.
Next, for tight spaces, I made up a kit with a mini-12v holder and resistor.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Model Railroad LED Lighting Kits These and the standard lit we are selling to our members with LED strip, resistor and switch may not be applicable to your needs. As below
But we are making available just the micro-switch which can be activated by any magnet. It can be placed in any position and glued, whatever. If you’re interested in one or more of these kits, contact the author at [email protected]
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
BUILDING THE 1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR BY BOB STEINBRUNN
The Hansen-commissioned 1/16th scale raw castings, parts, and fasteners as they came from the molds.
A few examples of period brochures, literature, and reference material to place the tractor historical context.
A drawing of the John Deere All-Wheel-Drive Tractor made by a John Deere artist for a sales brochure circa 1919. 38
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR The AWD on display at the Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution circa 1964.
The John Deere All-Wheel-Drive Tractor #191879 on exhibit in the Pavilion.
Basic tools for working metal models: the ubiquitous X-ACTO knife with a #11 blade, cross-action tweezers, standard tweezers, and micro-point tweezers. A set of small and large jeweler's files; sharp new ones are best: you'll want the nice cutting action of new files on a zinc model.
A large coarse file for removing large amounts of material, and a fine bastard file for smoothing out tool and file marks. Having a brass brush to clean out the metal filings from the files is handy. For joining metal parts J-B Weld two-part steel-filled epoxy is the best. In the background is an Arkansas sharpening stone and a bottle of honing solution, both of which will put a razor-sharp edge on your X- ACTO knife blades and any other knife in the shop. The stone will pay for itself quite quickly by reducing your use of brand-new blades for your hobby knife. 39
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
An AC electrical Dremel rotary tool and two battery- powered Dremel tools make short work of any machining, drilling, grinding, cutting, routing, deburring, and a myriad of other uses. A stand for the various bits, drills, and other tools is very handy.
The brake drum after reworking. The rough texture of the casting has been polished smooth.
Having a modeler's lathe is a real boon. Here the flywheel/belt pulley is being drilled for a shaft. First a 1/8" center drill starts the hole.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
Once the hole started by the center drill, a 1/8" drill bit is chucked into the lathe and the shaft hole is drilled precisely on center.
An old pair of scissors is being used to cut strip brass for the flywheel/belt pulley spokes.
The center hole is enlarged to the proper size using an end mill bit in a Dremel.
The 5-Speed Hold And Fold with a 5" folding blade is being used to make a 90- degree bend in a brass part.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
One half of the flywheel hub clamp is firmly held by a strip of styrene while being worked.
A sanding stick with four progressively finer grits takes out file marks and leaves a polish.
Attaching plastic rivets from Tichy Train Group with Grobet 4S tweezers and Tamiya cement. Thin CA glue will be used afterwards to firmly anchor the part.
Various sizes of rivets from Tichy Train Group organized in a parts drawer and being handled with Grobet 4S fine-point tweezers.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
Masking tape is used for a straight line reference to scribe the seams and flush rivets with a carbide scribe.
Brass wire is being heated in a candle flame to anneal it which removes the springiness and makes it easy to bend.
The finished flywheel/belt pulley assembly. The flywheel is comprised of 209 parts and took 37 hours to construct.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
A comparison of the flywheel/belt pulley rough casting and the finished item from their inboard sides.
A comparison of the flywheel/belt pulley rough casting and the finished item from their outboard sides. There are eight 00-90 brass bolts and nuts from Micro Fasteners in this assembly.
One half of the rear wheel being removed from the lathe after machining. The Riser Block accessory has been installed which raises the motor and headstock unit to allow larger diameter items to be machined. The design of the 3-jaw chuck will allow clamping an item from inside as seen here.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
The 3-jaw chuck will also clamp an item from outside as seen here. This two-way (inside or outside diameter) clamping capability is invaluable for machining various items. Now I will be able to file the inside of the wheel half as it spins. Note the mirror finish on the circumference.
One of the two rear wheel drive sprockets held in a small vise to allow machining out the center.
Using riffler files and sanding twigs inside a rear wheel half to remove tool marks. 45
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
The out-of-scale spokes on the rear wheel halves needed to be replaced with more scale-like spokes. A Dremel Tool was used with a separating disk to cut off the old spokes, then cutting burs were used to grind down the nubs from the inside of the wheels. An abrasive polishing disk then polished out all the tool and grinding marks, leaving a shiny and smooth inner surface.
The spoke, hub, and sprocket assemblies from the outboard and inboard sides showing the modifications, machining, and hardware.
The Waldron Punch & Die Set being used to punch out .059" disks from .005" sheet brass.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
The finished rear wheel. This assembly took 75 hours to fabricate and is comprised of 296 pieces. The scale hardware is from Walthers and Micro Fasteners using 00-90 hex-head bolts, washers, and nuts. Brass tubing made up the central hub and collars.
Many round-head rivets used came from Tichy Train Group in several sizes. The V-shaped lugs have .070" rivets, while .050" rivets were used inside the wheel and spokes.
The wheel carries more detail than the raw castings would suggest, making this assembly very challenging yet very satisfying to make. One of the two transverse 47 rods which parallel the axle tube and run from one sprocket to the other may be seen.
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
A "before" and "after" showing the front wheel casting and the polished rim after machining.
Milling out the "figure 8" openings in the front wheel hub centers using a Dremel in a drill stand.
Both hubs have the center milled out. The hub on the right has had the six round bolt heads ground off, awaiting replacement later on with brass 00-90 bolts and nuts.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
The front wheel casting is on the left, and the modified parts are on the right. The circular plate at the bottom of the photo is the wheel inner disk that had its diameter increased by wrapping a brass strip around the circumference. A section of brass tubing was cut to become the collar around the hub. A length of brass rod provided the universal joint hubs, one of which is seen with a section of small brass rod which will make up the universal joint hub pins.
Two drive shafts being soldered to forks on the soldering pad. Everything is solidly pinned.
A variety of flat brass strip, rod, and angle from Detail Associates was used for many purposes.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
Eight X-ACTO clamps are being used as heat sinks to absorb heat and isolate previously-soldered parts from the high heat which will melt their joints.
The steering mechanism: on the left is the stationary insert with steering arm; in the center is the wheel hub with universal joint into which the insert fits. On the right is the complete assembly with the hub, universal joint, and forked drive shaft, all of which rotate about the stationary insert.
A "before and after" photo of the front wheel minus the universal joint. There are 312 parts in the front wheels and this work consumed 72 hours.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
1918 JOHN DEERE AWD TRACTOR
The outboard view of the front wheel with all details added, both brass and styrene.
The inside of the front wheel showing the scratch- built universal joint, drive shaft, steering arm, and the way the lugs fold over and hook into the side of the wheel cover. The drive shaft part numbers TR317 are photoetch letters and numbers from Lion Roar. Tichy Train Group styrene rivets, nuts, and washers are used in many locations.
The front wheel showing the 1/16" brass angle lugs and their manner of attachment. Twelve drain holes were drilled around the periphery of the wheel. The inside cover plate was undersize, so its diameter was increased by cementing a brass strip around its circumference. Slots were cut into the rear cover plate along the circumference for the ends of the lugs to wrap around the rim and hook into these slots.
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Model Club Meetings in the SoCal Area Pendleton AMPS Meets on the 3rd Saturday of each month The American Legion La Mesa Post # 282 8118 University Ave. La Mesa, Ca. 91944 Doors open at 11:00 a.m. to about whenever $5 dues which includes lunch [email protected] 951-805-254
Upcoming Events Sunday, April 18, 2021 Herb Deeks presnts Rolls, Floats, and Fly’s Holiday Inn 7000 Beach Blvd. Buena Park, CA 90620 9:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Adult $5 Door Prize / Free Parking
Sunday, March 21, 2021
Kit Collectors Exposition & Sale The Keller Show Garden Grove Community Center 11300 Stanford Ave Garden Grove, CA 92840 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Adult $5
Sunday, April 21, 2021 ValleyCon Presented by Pasadena Modelers Pasadena Convention Center 300 E. Green Street Pasadena, CA 91101 Scheduled Event, more details to come later 52
IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Bases by Bill
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Bases by Bill
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
Detail & Scale
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IPMS ORANGE COUNTY Newsletter
November 2020
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