Vol. III Issue X www.ulsanpear.biz April 2007

Bulguksa The Folk Village Bomun Resort and more inside...

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Cover photo by JasonTeale FREE A Guide to ’s Historical Capital 무료 2 THE ulsan Pear

Welcome Pear Readers,

Yes this is still the Ulsan Pear, so don’t be fooled by our name change this month.

Keeping with Pear tradition, our April issue explores a different Emergency Contact Numbers Korean city. That being said, this issue is no April Fools joke! The city of is rich in history and culture. With its close speak very slowly, and clearly. proximity to Ulsan, it makes a perfect place to learn more about Korea. Do not panic, ask for English Even though we’ve looked at some of the more famous places in Gyeongju, we’ve barely scratch the surface. There are currently 293 designated cultural assets in the Gyeongju area, so there’s a lot more Ambulance 구급(Gu-Guep) to see and do. 119 Fire 화재 (Hwa-Jay) We hope this issue can be your beginners guide to Gyeongju, and 112 Police 경찰 (Gyeong-Chal) that you spend some time learning more about Korea. Kevin Forman Editor-in-Chief 1366 Women Emergency CAll

00799 International Operator ™ the Ulsan Pear Established 2004

1330 Tourist Information

Creator: Joel Burslem Ulsan Hospital Emergency 052-259-5000 H Editor-in-Chief: Kevin Forman

Editorial Board/ Korean Legal Aid 052-257-4676 Staff Writers: Deirdre Madden Law Nicole Shirray Jason Teale Tax Office 052-259-0200 Labour Board 052-272-0009 Contributors: Pete Birmingham Kristin Boe Chris Devauld Shawn Hines The Ulsan Pear Luz Romero Amanda Schimunek needs you!! Justin Zinck

Copy Editor: Deirdre Madden We are looking Principle Photographer: Jason Teale

for Layout/Design: Kevin Forman

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[email protected] THE ulsan Pear 3 Why Should You Make the Trip to Gyeongju?

Deirdre Madden an interesting site to visit. Mt Part of the reason Gyeongju is The Ulsan Pear Namsan itself is considered a so special is that it managed to cultural property, as it is home to escape destruction during the Some of you may be wondering one hundred and twenty temple . Unlike Seoul, which why we at the Pear decided sites, one hundred Buddhas and was almost entirely destroyed in to dedicate an entire issue to seventy . The ancient the fighting, Gyeongju’s location another city. Well the answer to people believed that “the miracle of in the southeastern corner of the that is quite simple. Gyeongju heaven is nestled in this mountain.” peninsula meant it was never on is the cultural capital of Korea, Tongiljeon, or Unification Hall the front line, and therefore not a settlement dating back to the is where the Silla Hwarang elite subjected to bombings and other Neolithic period, and the jewel of youth forces once trained, but destructive elements. the Silla crown. it is now a large, quiet park and monument to the unification of Of course, this does not mean it In a country that has been subjected the three kingdoms. was always safe; either the Japanese to conquering hordes from China, or the Mongols at one point or Mongolia and Japan, as well as Just inside the entrance to the another burned down most of the devastated by it’s own civil war, grounds, (admission is 300 won) buildings. Gyeongju is an essential historic there is a large fish pond with site. While many of the current some of the biggest carp you’ll ever Modern Gyeongju is home to attractions are restorations, ruins see, with a walking path around 293 Designated Cultural Assets, or entirely rebuilt from the ashes, it. Straight ahead, steps lead up ranging from national treasures walking through the area still to large stone monuments to the in the museums, to historic sites, gives you that feeling that you’ve two kings and the general, as well to folk-craft techniques. The stepped into history. as one to the unification. Beyond countryside around the city is this, more steps lead into a temple- littered with UNESCO world There is evidence of Neolithic like setting in which you can view heritage sites, stone pagodas, settlements in the region, which oil paintings and read stories, temples, carvings of Buddha and have provided the National in Korean or English, about the other tangible signs of times past. Museum with many interesting history of the war of unification. artifacts. But the real reason In the centre of this space is a small So, venture up to Gyeongju, and Gyeongju stands apart is that it shrine with portraits of General spend a day or two strolling around was the capital city of the Silla Yu Shin, King Muyeol and through the tranquil atmosphere Dynasty, considered by many as King Munmu. From the top of that seems to emanate from the the Golden Age of Korea. It was the steps, the view down the valley ground around you. Korea tends during Silla that General Kim Yu is phenomenal, especially on a to be a bustling country, but in Shin, under King Taejong Muyeol clear day. Gyeongju time stands still, and and King Munmu, unified the a peaceful calm surrounds you as three kingdoms and repelled the Upon his death King Munmu you explore the tombs of kings, forces of Tang China. was cremated, and his remains Photo by Pete Birmingham the shrines of monks, and the were placed in an underwater Daewangam, on the coast highway King Munmu’s wife also became park-like setting of the museum Tongiljeon Hall, nestled in the tomb in the East Sea. Legend has by Bonggil Beach is basically a pile a sea dragon after her death, and without walls. folds of Mt. Namsan, is often it that he became a sea dragon to of rocks in the sea, but it’s touted as Daewangam in Bangeojin is her overlooked by tourists, but is protect Korea from its enemies. the world’s only underwater tomb. haunt. [email protected] 4 THE ulsan Pear Weirdness Abounds in and Around the Forest

Chris Devauld forest has all of these aspects— Koreans fondly call it, is as old Contributor except for the getting lost thing as, well, a really old forest. The as the forest is, after all, not much thing is, this forest is the Petrified trees and chickens? This longer than a two hundred meter place where the ever-so- is hardly the description one dash. However, one should never important Kim Alji, would expect to hear when talking underestimate the power of soju. the founder of the about a forest. Kim clan, was born.

Yes, the influence of the name “Kim” owes a lot to this guy. And apparently he owed a lot to a c h i c k e n g u a r d i a n . It’s strange, but the Korean fascination with chickens might have started with the Korean fascination with Kim. Historical parallels or parallel universes? Photo by Chris Devauld

I have no idea. What I do know is that King Talhae of the Silla this. The surrounding hill-tombs they are trying to become shrubs; dynasty heard a chicken in the don’t have eyes—but they look and some even look happy. forest one day. Upon investigating like Super Mario backgrounds. the source of this rather strange And, well, the trees are gnarled, Maybe it’s because this is where occurrence, Talhae found a gold petrified, and highly reminiscent chickens look after gold boxes box hanging from a tree branch. of human emotions. or else LSD has seeped into the Underneath the box was a white water source. Either way, it’s a refreshing and imaginative walk. Photo by Chris Devauld chicken. Inside was none other I’ve always found it strange how than Kim Alji himself. hundreds of years will turn wood The forest is as old as the end of into stone, but what I find even the Silla dynasty, as is the myth When I ponder the mysteries of the And one should not overlook this Of course this must have been stranger is how trees can grow that accompanies it. The scenery deep foliage, I tend to think about natural wonder. Nestled between a big box, and you also have to like they are pissed off. When is as seductive as fresh dak, and squirrels, leaves, strange smells, and Wolseong, wonder why a chicken would you walk through this forest, your the impression it leaves on your the prospect of getting hopelessly the Gyerim Forest is a testament have the nerve to attract too much eyes are drawn to the tortured mind is simple, yet elegant—like lost, and finally a miserable death to both the myth and factual attention to itself in Korea, but look of the trees. Some are almost the name Kim. thanks to panic and poisonous aspects of Korean history. Gyerim, when you walk through this forest, completely stone; some have berries. Of course, the Gyerim or “Chicken Forest,” as so many you tend to believe bizarre stuff like meandered enough to look like [email protected] THE ulsan Pear 5 Weirdness Abounds in and Around the Gyerim Forest Spectacular Seoguram Grotto Gyeong ju World Fun Shawn Hines We got into the park and let Nicole Shirray you start to notice the details; the of the East Sea. The Grotto area The Ulsan Pear our kids roam free from the The Ulsan Pear and other figures is seven hundred and fifty metres constraints of parental bondage. that represent buddhist teach- above sea level and makes for a Gyeongju World is located We noticed that many of the Seoguram Grotto is a small her- ings. The roof is richly decorated spectacular view of the sunrise on about six kilometers away from rides were aimed at younger mitage located on the mountain and the whole place exudes peace a clear day. Coming down a level, downtown Gyeongju. The park kids, but a few were for the older above the Temple site. and calm. The whole complex was you pass by another building that is near the Bomun Lake Resort teens and adults. One specific Once you pass the ticket booth, built at the same time as Bulguksa holds a gilded Buddha and is a area, surrounded by many ride pulls you thirty stories in you have a relaxing walk around temple. The same man oversaw popular place for people to make western-style hotels. If you take the air and suddenly drops you the top of a mountain, through a both, building the temple for his wishes. You can make a dona- bus #10 from downtown to the the distance down at a breakneck peaceful forest until you come to a parents and the grotto for his par- tion at a wooden box to help you clearing complete with a fountain ents of his previous life. chances. Larger donations will get

Photo by Shawn Hines

Bomun Lake Resort area, you’ll speed! It does slow down before get off at the bus stop very close the bottom or that would defeat to the park’s entrance. the purpose of an “amusement” ride. The park is spacious and offers Photo by Nicole Shirray plenty of rides for those thrill- The weather was a bit brisk for seeking types. In the park there being at an amusement park so is quite a large roller coaster many of the attractions were to refresh yourself. To the right, The inner chambers are protected your name on a paper lantern in- with another roller coaster in the closed down for the season. you can purchase souvenirs or put from the elements by an artificial side the building and monks will process of being built. The new Bumper cars were quite popular, your stamp on the temple area by grotto made entirely of stone. help you in your prayers. one is sure to cause you to lose as was the “Spinning Wheel of paying 10,000 won to write a wish your lunch. Vomit” that many older teens on the black tiles they use to refur- No mortar was used, they are held Getting to the grotto is relatively were lined up for, waiting to bish the buildings. Travelers from together by stone rivets. It’s not simple. From Bulguksa temple, There is plenty to do in the park, ride. all over the world have left their large, and was probably originally you can choose to drive a mean- but before you can ride anything, traces and you can feel connected used by the Silla royalty. Nowa- dering road around the mount- please ensure you purchase a Overall, even though many of the as you read words from every con- days, monks still pray in the inner ians, take a bus on said meander- wristband. Without the band, rides weren’t open, the Gyeongju tinent. room three times a day: from four ing road, or hike the relatively di- your admission fee just allows World Amusement Park looks to five and from ten to eleven in rect path from outside the temple’s you to walk around the park, like it might hold a good day As you approach the grotto itself, the morning, and from six-thirty ticket booth. the admission fee is higher for worth of fun for the traveler. you walk past some old stones left to seven-thirty in the evening. entrance and wristband. Be aware that the cost may be over from past renovations and ap- Admission: 4,000 won Adults similar to many attractions in the proach the main event. The actual During the midday prayers, tour- (25-65), 3,000 won Youth (14- My family and I decided to take a western world. But considering grotto has been enclosed in a small ists are restricted from entering 24), 2,000 won Children (8-13), side trip to see Gyeongju World. it has a pool and water slide for building and glassed off to protect (the other times fall outside of Children under 8 and Seniors The park doesn’t have any English summer, and in the winter a it from wandering tourists, but is tourist hours). Pictures are strictly Free. 6:30AM- 5:30pm. translations for admission prices, snow slide, it could be one of the still breathtaking to behold. The prohibited inside the grotto. so it might help if you take a more exciting days you might [email protected] first thing you see when you walk Korean friend along to help with have in Gyeongju. in is the immense granite Buddha As you leave the grotto, you are translation. at the back of the rotunda. Then immediately taken by the view [email protected] 6 THE ulsan Pear

The Halfmoon Fortress Can you find Golgulsa Temple?

Justin Zinck of them include the North and South gates Kristin Boe partner in crime on this adventure stepped Contributor and the ancient governmental building. Contributor off the Great Wall of China and was unable Most notable is the ancient Ice House; the to find her way back to the only man-made In amongst the forests and the hills of architecture and size of the structure are Were my intentions good? Absolutely. structure reportedly visible from space) we Gyeongju one will find this intriguing very impressive. It sure beats the old bar Were the attempts noble? Undoubtably. were off. We hailed a taxi, luckily, as there historical site. Also known as Wolseong fridge I used in university. Did I make it to Golgulsa Temple? Sadly, aren’t many that seem to go through this Palace, it was the royal palace for the no. I really wanted to visit this unique area, and shared it with a couple. Silla dynasty, so it is little wonder that it Now for a little folklore. Before the fortress place. Honestly. I did the internet research, also took on the name of Sinwolseong or was built, a man named Hogon lived there. I consulted the Lonely Planet, and I pored They were deposited at Bulguksa, and the over a couple of maps only to find myself driver informed us that it would be thirteen eagerly awaiting the weekend so that I or maybe thirty minutes more to Golgulsa could look around this place. However, and it might cost anywhere from 14,000 to “Korea Happened”. 30,000 won.

Photo by Jason Teale

Jaeseong, which is referring to the fact that He was accosted by a magical youth of the it was the king’s house. time named Talhae. Hogon had enough of the youth and his fantastical abilities, so The origin of the name of the fortress is he moved. The King was so impressed by pretty simple, as the outside walls of the Talhae and his magical abilities, that Talhae fortress are shaped like a half moon. This was made his son-in-law. As a result of a was done for strategic purposes; the main series of events Talhae eventually became reason was the location of a river running king. along the south, which gave a natural barrier against invaders. It is little wonder with so much history why this site is important to Koreans. If you are Attempt Number One, I went out for We were finished. It was cold, it was Now for a little history. The fortress was built in the area be sure to take it in. a “few beers” the night before. I think raining, we were tired, and we were in 101A.D. by the king of the time, Pasa. enough is said. I can report that the sunrise frustrated. As I said, “Korea Happened.” Within the site there is a variety of smaller [email protected] was lovely as viewed through my bleary, Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes sites that are well worth investigating. Some bloodshot eyes. you are overwhelmed with the language barrier, inability to read the road signs The Second Attempt found me halfway to properly, and the little obstacles that pile Gyeongju on my autobike with my friend up and get a person flustered. in tow. Strong, cold winds forced us into a vote where Starbucks won two to nothing I’m not giving up though. Golgulsa sounds over Golgulsa. like an amazing place that covers half a mountain and is the only cave temple in Finally, I made it to Gyeongju on the Korea. There is a large relief of Buddha Third Attempt via the Intercity Bus. After carved into a 100 foot cliff that you can my friend and I armed ourselves with only see by passing through a natural stone Green Printing more maps and verbal directions from cave. Golgulsa is also the main training the Tourist Information Center, located center for Sunmudo, a martial art that directly outside the bus terminal, we were was secretly passed down for over 2500 on our way.We hopped on the number 100 years, focusing on enlightenment through bus and listened /watched for the Andong the harmonization of body, breath, and three way intersection. Thinking we had mind. passed it, a non-English speaking ajumma was consulted and we were promptly In addition, it features temple stays ejected from the bus. Mind you, there that allow a person to experience some wasn’t a bus stop planned and we were Sunmudo training. There are also hour taken by surprise to find ourselves on the and a half demonstrations at 8:30am and side of a road, with very little in the way 7pm on the practice of Sunmudo. of landmarks. If you attempt this trip, and take this route, the Andong Intersection So, if anyone finds this place, or has already is found by the sign leading to Bulguksa visited and can give me detailed directions, Temple. please do so. Good luck to the rest of you!

After a brief map reading by two [email protected] directionally challenged individuals (my THE ulsan Pear 7

Can you find Golgulsa Temple? Reviving the Past : The Gyeongju Folk Craft Village Amanda Schimunek modern craftsman managed to book on Gyeongju’s history for The Ulsan Pear revive it at the Gyeongju Folkcraft 7,000 won. There are a multitude Village. of souvenir shops around the Just outside of downtown Gyeongju Folkcraft Village, many is the Gyeongju Folkcraft Village. The artisans at the Folkcraft similar items; comparing prices The main purpose of the Folkcraft Village have done their best to re- before you buy might lead to a Village is to highlight the artistic create ancient working conditions. bargain and save some frustration. and scientific accomplishments of Nothing is mechanized; they work the Silla people. on pottery wheels with foot pedals The Gyeongju Folkcraft Village and use only simple hand tools opens a window to Korea’s past Two thousand years ago, during and leather straps for etching and and allows visitors to experience the Silla dynasty, Korean craftsman smoothing clay. When the clay the history of Silla clay art. perfected an unusual technique for pieces are finished, they are fired making clay pottery and tiles. at one-thousand degrees Celsius Bulguksa Temple, another must- in huge man-made earth kilns. see stop in Gyeongju, is right Many examples of their work have next door to the Folkcraft Village. been excavated from tombs in While the craftsmen are working, The area is easily accessible by and around Gyeongju. The coarse bus or train and admission to the they often keep their doors closed. Photo by Amanda Schimunek texture and distinctive blue-gray “Workshop Welcome” signs posted Folkcraft Village is free. color of Silla pottery is difficult to outside invite you to wander in There is a special souvenir shop about Korean folk legend. achieve, and the art was lost until and look around. behind the Silla kiln area that you Admission is 3,000 won. [email protected] can only get to by going through the workshop. The traditional The souvenir shop across from pottery for sale is a bit expensive, the museum has a great English but it’s all handmade on-site and well worth the money if you want something very traditional yet very unique.

The Folkcraft Village also features jewelry made with Korean jade and amethyst, as well as workshops where you can see clay hand- sculpting, painting and metalworking. The Silla Science Museum located inside the Folkcraft Village displays miniatures of some of Gyeongju’s important historical sites, including the Cheomseongdae Observatory and Seoguram Grotto. The museum also offers some interesting souvenirs, including inexpensive postcard collections and children’s books in English Photo by Amanda Schimunek Photo by Amanda Schimunek 8 THE ulsan Pear were rebuilt and renovated many times over the next two hundred Bulguksa : Temple of the Buddha Land years. Even the Japanese took a try at restoration during the occupa- Nicole Shirray Bulguksa Temple and the nearby Starting with the first small tem- 774. Japanese pirates burned all tion of 1910-1945, although no The Ulsan Pear Grotto are two of the ple erected on the site in 528, sev- the wooden buildings in the late records were kept and some things most precious UNESCO sites in eral sets of buildings have since sixteenth century when weapons went missing. Major reconstruc- Standing half way up the side the country, known for both their been built and destroyed. The were found hidden in one of the tion work was done in 1969-1973 of Mt. , looking over history and the treasures they con- Silla royalty named the newly ex- shrines. The stone structures sur- to restore the temple site to its for- Gyeongju, stands one of the most tain. panded compound Bulguksa, or vived, including seven national mer glory as much as possible. famous symbols of the city. Temple of the Buddha Land, in treasures. The rest of the buildings When you first approach the temple, you’ll see several stone staircases leading up to the main complex. The smaller pair on the left, Lotus Flower Bridge and the Seven Treasures Bridge lead up to the lower courtyard which is dedi- cated to Amitabha, the Buddha of Boundless Light. He promised enlightenment to all believed in him and has a large following in Korea.

The larger bridges on the right, the White Cloud Bridge (Baegungyo) and lower Blue Cloud Bridge (Cheongungyo) together have thirty-three steps, representing the thirty-three heavens of . They lead to the upper courtyard which is dedicated to Seokgamo- ni, the Historic Buddha, who is highly praised for having appeared in the mundane world.

In this main courtyard rest two large pagodas considered the most beautiful and meaningful in Ko- rea. Built with the original Bul- guksa Temple, the pair exemplify and contrast the simple, graceful style adapted from Chinese Bud- dhism, and the elaborate skill of the Unified Silla masons. Photo by Nicole Shirray During repairs on the Seokagamo- ni in 1966, workers found the Pure Light , the oldest printed text in the world (around 750 AD).

The more elaborate Pagoda of Many Treasures had also been ren- ovated in 1920, but the Japanese left no record of the repairs or any treasures found therein.

The temple is a large complex and has many beautiful things to see. It is definitely worth the trip! Reg- ular bus tours as well as many city buses will get you here.

To the left of the main temple is also a large shop, where you can buy beautiful art- work done by local monks at rea- sonable prices (anywhere from 10,000 to 200,000 and up de- pending on the size and quality).

Admission: 4,000 won Adults (25-65), 3,000 won Youth (14- 24), 2,000 won Children (8-13), Children under 8 and Seniors Free. 7:30AM- 5:30pm.

[email protected]

Photo by Jason Teale Photo by Nicole Shirray THE ulsan Pear 9 A World of Fun and Relaxation At Bomun Resort

Kevin Forman The Ulsan Pear

Gyeongju is frequently described as a museum without walls. Indeed, the cornucopia of historical sites and treasures on display can be mind boggling. Once you’ve finished embracing the history, a quick return to the twentieth century can be found at the Bomun Resort Area.

Built around Bomun Lake, the resort area offers many choices of entertainment. There are several luxurious hotels around the lakes, and you can walk between them, following the shoreline. The walk is particularly beautiful during the Cherry Blossom season, usually between late March and early May.

If walking isn’t your cup of tea, Photos by Jason Teale you can rent bicycles at various locations. The average price for of transportation available. The variety of baths, or playing in the between the Hilton and Concorde out. The Center also sells some a bicycle rental is 3,000 won per first is a large swan shaped boat, numerous water facilities there. Hotels. From April to November traditional art, which can make hour, or 5,000 won per day. You which cruises slowly around the Other things you can find in you can experience free traditional excellent gifts. can also get a two seat bicycle for a lake. This allows you to take in the Bomun resort are singing rooms, Korean entertainment. The show slightly higher fee. sights at a leisurely pace. This boat shooting ranges, golf courses, is fifty minutes long and starts Bomun resort is located to the east costs between 1,500 and 3,000 bowling alleys, Gyeongju world, at 2:30 pm in April, October of downtown Gyeongju. There are For a more exciting ride, there are won per person. Second, you can and even a casino exclusively for and November. From May to many road signs directing you to ATVs and mini-motorcycles for get a small swan shaped paddle foreigners. September the show starts at 8:30 the area. If you don’t have your hire. These start at 10,000 won boat, and exercise yourself around pm. You can call (054)740-7331 own transportation, bus #10 will per hour. Shops around the lake the lake. This costs 9,000 won for Culture is not totally forgotten for more details. take you to the resort area. mostly have small ATVs, but if four people. Finally for a thrill in Bomun Resort. Next to you want to ride a full-sized one, there is a speed boat. This starts at the Hilton Hotel is the Sonje A Tourist Information Center is A final thought about Bomun they are available along the river 5,000 won per person. Museum of Contemporary Art. also located in Bomun Resort. Just Resort: it’s a great place to have bed at the southeast end of the Although it was unfortunately up the hill from the Traditional fun, but it can be quite pricey, lake. If you want to get wet, a trip to the closed for renovations on the day Arts Theater, it is open daily so be prepared to pay for your Daemyung Resort’s Aqualand is that I visited, it should be open from 9 am to 6 pm. The staff entertainment. You can venture out on to the lake in order. For 20,000 won you can soon. There is also the Korean speak some English, and there are as well. There are three main types spend the whole day relaxing in a Traditional Arts Theater located maps and guidebooks to help you [email protected] 10 THE ulsan Pear The Pear’s Events Calendar FOR april 2007 THE CUT-OUT & KEEP GUIDE TO FORTHCOMING EVENTS ACROSS ULSAN Events Calendar Contact Information PHOTO OF THE MONTH Gyeongju Tower by Pete Birmingham Tombstone Jeff @ 010-2870-6626

Free Alcohol! Benchwarmers Troy @ 010-9961-7647 Photo of the month is Writer’s Group a contest sponsored by Dee @ [email protected]

Benchwarmers. Wonshot Wanderers F.C. Phillip @ 011-9322-3629 Each winner recieves a 20,000won tab.

Send your photo to: Martial Arts Training [email protected] Events Calendar Guide Ki Mizu Ryu Martial Arts Certified Belts and Certificates Artistic shots or Konglish Sports English Instruction www.imasgroup.us Bar Activities [email protected] signs are welcome

as submissions. Culture Ulsan Tigers Soccer home games played at Munsu Stadium Other

MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 1 Pub Quiz @ Latin Dance Class at Hyo Jung Dance Academy in Mugeo Dong Gyeongju Traditional Liquor and Benchwarmers 8pm Marion Ramirez from Puerto Rico. Cake Festival Thursdays 9:30pm -10:30pm Fridays 10:30 am- 12pm March and April @ Bomun Resort Area Wonshot Wander- [email protected] in Gyeongju ers Game 2pm @ Yangjeong Pitch

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Writer’s Group @ Mc- Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Viewing Ulsan Tigers Home Bingo @ Kenzie’s 10:30pm (see page 14) Game 3pm Benchwarmers 8pm

Wonshot Wanderers Game 4pm @ Nongso Pitch

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Wonshot Wander- Pub Quiz @ Viewing(see page 14) ers Game 7:20 pm @ Benchwarmers 8pm Hyojeong MS Pitch Yoo Young -Kyung & Yoo Young-Ong Duo Concert April 12th, 8pm @ Hyundai Arts Center Tickets from 10,000 won

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Writer’s Group @ Mc- Poker @ Tombstone Kenzie’s 10:30pm Ulsan Pear Submission Deadline! Trevor Pinnock & The European Brandenburg Ensemble April 19th, 8pm @ Hyundai Arts Center Tickets From 10,000 won

23/30 24 25 26 27 28 29 Poker @ Tombstone Spanish Film Viewing Gum Sarang Gumdo Pub Quiz @ (see page 14) Demonstration(see Benchwarmers 8pm page 16) Ulsan Tigers Home Play : “Mother” Game 3pm April 26th~27th, 8pm @ Wonshot Wanderers Writers Group @ McKenzie’s Bar: Share your short stories, Running Hyundai Arts Center Game 2pm @ Hyo- poetry and music. Or just come and listen. [email protected] Hash House Harriers Tickets From 10,000 won mun Pitch meet every second Paintball Mountain Bike Club - UMTBC Sunday at the The Ulsan Ugly Playboy Rugby Rock Climbing - Most Saturdays Can organize paintball days for Jung Sang Young, Samchuly Bicycle Foreigners compound in Team are back. Interested? Con- and some mornings. groups of twenty-five to thirty. Bangeojin at 10am. between Gongeobtap and Taewha tact Benchwarmers at ulsanrockclimbing@googlegroups. Contact Benchwarmers. Rotaries. 052-260-3000. [email protected] com THE ulsan Pear 11 Tranquility and Tombs Abound At Tumuli Park

Kevin Forman you can actually enter the tomb. bus #70, which stops outside The Ulsan Pear Inside you can see the excavated the front gate. You should also wooden burial chamber, as well as note that the park is often called Located in the southern portion some of the artifacts the King was Daereungwon Park. of downtown Gyeongju, Tumuli buried with. The pieces on display Park offers an opportunity for include: cups, a gold crown, a [email protected] the visitor to see what life-after- w o o d e n death was like for royalty during s a d d l e , the Silla dynasty. v a r i o u s weapons, and The park contains twenty-three a mudguard tombs and is a beautiful place with a flying in which many nobles of the horse painted Silla dynasty lie at rest. If you on it. The last enter by the front gate you are artifact is the immersed in a world of trees. source of the The walk along the path is cool tomb’s name. and shaded, and offers one the chance to collect their thoughts To get to before seeing the tombs. Tumuli Park, Photo by Kevin Forman you can walk After emerging from the woods east along the you get your first glance at the you will see two tombs nestled of the other tombs, and is notable main road tombs. These large grass covered closely together. These mark the for being surrounded by an ornate from the bus mounds (some as high as thirteen burial site of a king and queen. wall. t e r m i n a l s . meters) each enclose the burial While all of the tombs are nice to This will chamber of a Silla monarch. look at, two of the tombs are of The second is the tomb referred to lead you to Varying in size, the tombs provide more interest than the others. The as Cheonmachong, which means the rear gate. an interesting setting through first is the tomb of King Michu. ‘Heavenly Horse Tomb’. This Alternatively, which to walk. From time to time, His tomb is located in the center one is particularly fascinating as you can take Photo by Kevin Forman A Look At Tourism in Korea’s Cultural Capital

Jason Teale factors that most don’t even realize from the issue of dog meat and a maintaining the current boom in Anapji Pond have been wonderful The Ulsan Pear exist for the purposes of tourism. few other minor problems. One of Korean tourism and to meet the developments. Still, more work the aspects of Gyeongju that has ever increasing demand. needs to be done to improve some I have often described If you have ever traveled to been brought up in the past has areas for international tourists, Gyeongju as “The Gyeongju and taken a look been the lack of “Elsewhereness” In the four years that I have but I feel that the infrastructure is Kyoto of Korea” to at the series of transportation or rather the inability to make you been in Korea, I have noticed a in place to put Korea on the map many people that are networks that can get you to and feel as if you stepped back into the distinct change in various sites as one of Asia’s premier tourism not familiar with Korea. from various sites, the amount of Silla capital. This may seem rather around Gyeongju. The lights that destinations. Out of all of the major resorts, five-star hotels, yogwans, trivial, but from a tourism point illuminate the tombs at night ancient Asian capitols or and historical sites you will see of view, it is quite important. and the evening aesthetics of [email protected] major cultural heritage that the KTO has been working sites, Gyeongju is the hard to put Gyeongju (and the An example of how elsewhereness least known, but not rest of Korea) on the map for makes history come alive is the if the Korean Tourism international tourism, but is it popularity of Gyeongbukgung Organization (KTO) working? Palace in Seoul. There, one gets E di to rial has anything to do with a true sense of Korea’s wonderful it. Since the KTO was created traditions and the majesty of its in 1962, Korea has noticed history. a considerable increase in international tourism. Currently The government itself has taken about six million international up the challenge of improving tourists come to Korea each year, the tourism industry by making a which is a dramatic increase from number of changes to its tourism less than 100,000 back in the late policy in 2002 (shortly after sixties. Still, the majority of the the World Cup finished). Most tourism industry is domestic. notably are the visa exemptions for some sixty countries, making Korea may be one of the world’s it even easier to see the beauty of fastest growing economic powers Korea and a shift towards a more in the world, but for tourism knowledge-based tourism industry. it has a lot of competition. There is also a push towards The Asian tourism market is making tourism harmonious with Photo by Jason Teale fierce and competition is high. environmental and economic To make the Forbidden City policies and standards. more appealing, China even put Tourism is a complex process a Starbucks within the ancient The government is putting new that goes beyond the “if you walls on the city! Can you really money into the development build it, they will come” idea compete with that? of more tourism services for that many countries employ to the visitors to Korea and to generate income through tourism. Korea faces a number challenges on improve the standards of existing Successful tourism requires a the international market. It deals attractions and complexes. number of major and minor with an image problem stemming These improvements are vital to 12 THE ulsan Pear A Trip to the Past At

Shawn Hines The Ulsan Pear

Gyeongju National Museum is a great place to learn more about Korean culture and history. Located a few minutes away from the downtown area, the national museum provides a good starting point to learn about many of the national treasures that have been found throughout the country and in Gyeongju itself. Nearby the museum you will also find the Cheomseongdae observatory and Anapji pond.

Entering the museum, you will see many artifacts from early Korean history. The museum houses many relics from the Silla time period as well as prehistoric and Buddhist artifacts, approximately 2,500 items can be observed. The number of actual relics is so large that many are in storage and are used for research purposes. If you are a history buff, this would be a great starting place to augment Photo by Shawn Hines your education. In 1921 a rather large gold crown weapons. One building contains It’s really amazing to see how If you are driving, the Museum is The museum offers rentals of was found in a local tomb along relics that have been recovered Asian history precedes Western on highway 7, on the left hand audio guides in English, Japanese, with other ancient relics, gaining from the nearby Anapji Pond. history and realize that no matter side before you reach Gyeongu, and Korean for 2,000 won. domestic and international where you might be in the world, with many signs posted. Throughout the museum, brief attention. In 1945, after the The exhibit on the prehistoric relics history in the beginnings were explanations are posted in Korean Japanese occupation was over, of the area was so well constructed very similar. There are a few other Admission: 1000 won for adults and English. the museum was renamed again that it made following the buildings available to explore, but (19-65), 500 won for kids (7-18), and had to make extra facilities timeline easy and understandable, instead of telling everything there over 65 and under 6 are free. The The Gyeongju National Museum to house all the artifacts that had as well as knowing what relic is to see, I would recommend you fourth Saturday of each month was started in 1910 by a group been found. came from what time period. The to stop by and look for yourself. is free for everyone, and if you’re of Gyeongju residents to help English translations throughout under 18, the second Saturday of preserve many of the historic sites The items on display range from the building made things easy to To get there by bus from Ulsan, each month is also free. Groups of found within the city. In 1913 prehistoric artifacts such as pottery follow, knowing when one period get off at the intercity bus station, 20 or more are discounted. it was renamed the Gyeongju and arrowheads to the late Three- ended and another began and how and catch bus number 10 at the Historical Association, when it Kingdom period where gold and as you walked from room to room stop across the street. This will [email protected] made one of the houses from the silver were used in ceremonial each time period related to the take you to the National Museum. period an exhibition hall. dress and for the decoration of last.

Photo by Shawn Hines THE ulsan Pear 13 A Trip to the Past At Gyeongju National Museum History and Helping Your Health at Hwangseong Park

Kevin Forman range, a twenty-thousand seat The Ulsan Pear stadium, basketball nets, and an exercise course with various Towards the north end of Gyeongju stations to work out different there is a peaceful, relaxing area parts of your body. Located in just waiting to envelop you in the woods there is a six lane, all- feelings of a quieter time. weather, hundred meter race track. Even more oddly, there is a discus Hwangseong Park is a wooded cage attached to the track. With area with a variety of possibilities. I no place for a discus to go except originally journeyed there to view into the woods, it seems a bit out the statue of General Kim Yushin. of place. I quickly discovered that the park is much more than just a place to Of course there is still the matter view this historical monument. of my reason for visiting the park, the statue of General Kim. One The park is crisscrossed with paths of the most famous Koreans, he both manmade and natural. It was is considered largely responsible quite a treat to walk over the dried for the unification of the three leaves in the forest while hearing kingdoms into the Silla Dynasty. the sounds of birds chirping and squirrels chattering in the The statue stands on the top of a Photo by Kevin Forman background. It was a reminder of small hill, and shows the general my youth in the distant timbers of mounted on a horse, sword The park is located on Highway Canada. drawn, as though he were leading 7 heading towards Pohang, north his troops into battle. It is quite an of the train station. You can also The park also has a variety of impressive statue, and you can get take city buses 40, 41, 200, 201, sporting and exercise equipment. an idea of the expanse of the park 202, 210 and 230 to get there. There is a traditional archery from the top of the hill. You should get off the bus at the Gyeongju Municipal Library stop.

I did see other buses stopping there, but the routes were not listed on the sign, so they might be unreliable.

For a chance to take a nice natural walk in the middle of a city, stop by Hwangseong Park and enjoy the feeling of the outdoors.

[email protected] Photo by Kevin Forman Photo by Kevin Forman 14 THE ulsan Pear Taking the Train to Gyeongju ExperienceMovies In Spanish

Amanda Schimunek Luz Romero Festival, the Cannes Film The Ulsan Pear Contributor Festival, the Berlin International Film Festival and the Mar del In general, traveling from Ulsan by Living in Ulsan can be more Plata Film Festival. Hispanic train is easy and cheap, especially than just surviving in a Korean films explore the diversity of if you’re not traveling very far. industrial city. It can also be a Spanish speaking countries. Almost all of the intercity buses chance to discover and enjoy the Their topics and plots include will take you to the Ulsan Train arts, not just locally, but globally. everyday life, biographies, Station from Samsondong, and Based on the idea to offer more historical events and adaptations bus number 1401 goes straight to cultural activities for all people from novels and literature works the station from Bangeojin. It runs living in Ulsan and nearby, the among other issues. once every hour between half-past department of Spanish, University and ten-to the hour, depending on of Ulsan, is showing a season of Living in Ulsan is not an obstacle where you wait for it. If the bus Hispanic films this year. to approach Hispanic culture doesn’t suit you, you can always through cinema. The department hop in a cab and say, “Ulsan Yuk, Spanish is the official language of Spanish, University of Ulsan, ga jusayo.” of twenty-two nations. Some is showing a season of Hispanic centuries ago, Spanish explorers films produced in Spain and Train fare from Ulsan to Gyeongju and colonists carried their language Latin America. The Department is 3,100 won per person. Trains to to the Americas and other parts of of Spanish (UOU) cordially Gyeongju run about every hour the world like Equatorial Guinea invites all of the Ulsan Pear (sometimes every two hours) and the Philippines. Nowadays, readers who are interested in beginning at 6:25 a.m. and ending immigrants from Spanish speaking Hispanic cultures or the Spanish at 11:25 p.m. For train schedules Photo by Amanda Schimunek countries also take their language language to watch movies in on specific dates and times, you to the host nations they are living Spanish every Friday at 7pm can always call 052 1330 from get off if you want to check out easily stop off at Bunhwangsa in. Those reasons explain why (building 20 room 113). any phone. This number is for Bulguksa Temple (See Page 8) and/ Temple to check out an ancient Spanish is spoken by more than Admission is free. This season of Ulsan tourist information in or the Folkcraft Village (See Page stone pagoda. Across from four hundred million people and Hispanic films includes No One English. They can help you with 7). From Bulguksa Station, cross Bunhwangsa is the ancient temple why it is one of the six official Writes to the Colonel (based travel by bus, train, or plane, plus the street to the bus stop on your site of Hwangnyongsa; only the working languages of the United on the novel by Gabriel Garcia answer any questions you might right. A bus card from Ulsan will foundation of the temple remains, Nations. Marquez and directed by Arturo have about getting around Ulsan. work here, too, or a cab can get but it’s a beautiful place with lots Ripstein), Butterfly ‘s Tongue (by A tip for travelers: the tourist you to the Temple or the Folkcraft of history. The bus route into Jose Luis Cuerda), The Official information number works for Village for about 5,000 won. It’s downtown will also take you past History (by Luis Puenzo) and ANY city in Korea. Just dial the also walkable in twenty to thirty Gyeongju World amusement park many more. area code (for Ulsan it’s 052) then minutes and the directions are and the major tourist hotels at 1330. well signposted in English. Bomun Resort (See Page 9). [email protected]

Traveling to Gyeongju from There are bus stops outside There’s a tourist information Ulsan is a forty-minute trip Bulguksa Temple and the Folkcraft center just outside the Gyeongju Our programme: through farmland with beautiful Village that will take you into Train Station where you can pick March 23 mountains in the background. downtown Gyeongju, or you can up a map and news about what’s El coronel no tiene quien le There are two possible places to stay on the train one more stop to happening in Gyeongju. escriba get off. The first Gyeongju stop “Gyeongju Yuk” which will put is Bulguksa Station (sometimes you right in the downtown area. If [email protected] March 30 spelled Pulgoksa, but it’s one and you take a bus from the Bulguksa La lengua de las mariposas the same place). This is where to area into downtown, you can April 06 Write Amores perros for April 13 The In addition, most of the Hispanic La historia oficial Ulsan countries are home to a huge Pear! variety of cultural expressions that April 27 came from the mix among native Perder es cuestion de metodo cultures, European cultures and email African cultures. This diversity is May 4 expanding and gaining recognition info@ Las bicicletas son para internationally through arts such el verano ulsanpear. as literature, music, painting and biz film. Just talking about literature, for more May 11 it is possible to list four winners El crimen del padre Amaro info of the Nobel Prize: Colombian Gabriel Garcia Marquez (One May 18 Hundred Years of Solitude), Samy y yo We don’t bite. Chileans Gabriela Mistral and Pablo Neruda, and Mexican May 25 Octavio Paz (The Labyrinth of La estrategia del caracol Solitude). June 1 On the other hand, the film Tapas industry’s high quality has been widely esteemed in the most June 8 prestigious festivals, such as La virgen de los sicarios the Toronto International Film THE ulsan Pear 15 Enjoying A Great Cup of Coffee..Ulsan St yle

Jason Teale transferred into The Ulsan Pear your cup. His beans are roasted everyday For a long time I had given up on to ensure freshness finding good fresh roasted coffee and flavor. in Ulsan. I was destined to buy old coffee from the supermarket. Then He started his I heard a rumor about a shop that business about 10 supposedly “roasted” fresh beans. years ago because Could this be the same place that I he loved coffee so heard about so long ago? Could it much and there have been in Ulsan all along, right wasn’t anywhere under my coffee-swilling nose? that served premium coffee This search brought me to Save in Ulsan at that Zone and to a small coffee shop time. Now there above a gogi restaurant. It was are many shops like finding Atlantis in your including big names backyard. The place is called “The like Starbucks and Coffee Bean Stock” and is run Holly’s Coffee Co. by a formidable master of Coffee So I asked if he Creation; Park Yoon-Hyuk. was worried about Photo by Jason Teale the future of such Now, I must warn you that this a unique shop and Zone and turn your back place isn’t for everyone. If you he just laughed. He told me that towards the store. You’ll like “coffee-flavored” milk or those places serve beans that are be facing the direction your mochaccino with a tiny shot old. What sets his shop apart is of KBS Hall, now walk of espresso and an Everest-sized that he roasts his beans everyday, to the next intersection. dollop of whipped cream and so it is always fresh. On your left will be a cutie sprinkles… stay home. This Korean restaurant and shop is for people who truly love Mr. Park also serves up knowledge across from it will be a coffee in its most perfect forms. along with his coffee, as he often Family Mart under a bar trains people in the art of coffee called “Superman”. The Why I say this is because Mr. Park preparation. His shop contains coffee shop is above the is extremely passionate about his a library of Coffee materials and Korean restaurant, with coffee. From his expertly crafted information, though unfortunately the entrance facing the cappuccino to the way he hand- most of it is in Japanese. He speaks Family Mart. pours his drip coffee, everything a bit of English and can tell you he does has been studied and many things about coffee coming Just remember that when perfected. His creations are not from 10 years of erudite study. you go, the charm of for the coffee novice, but for this place is the passion, what many would call a “Coffee Now that you know all about his the coffee and the Connoisseur”. shop and who he is, it is time to atmosphere. Keep this in give Mr. Park a visit. It is located mind and have a great His drip coffee is hand-poured across from Save Zone, towards cup of coffee! through a cloth filter to make sure KBS Hall. So simply stand at the that all of the oils and flavour get intersection directly in front of Save [email protected] Photo by Jason Teale THE ulsan Pear 16 For The Love of The Sword Next Issue: Nicole Shirray sparring with bamboo swords, and portunity for me to experience the The Ulsan Pear cutting paper, bamboo, and straw. culture of the country as a partici- It’s intended to mimic battlefield pant instead of an observer. Coming to Asia, one of my hopes fighting against multiple oppo- was to learn a martial art. At the nents (English: you feel like you’re Learning a martial art can be an beginning of my second year in the training for Kill Bill). The purpose great experience, giving you a city, I was introduced to Hwang is to practice for cutting through work out while learning a new Su Jin, the master of a Haedong said opponents (also training for skill. I can’t say enough how re- Gumdo d o j a n g near my a p a r t - m e n t . H e s p o k e fantastic English and was m o r e t h a n willing to go out of his way to help me learn and have o p p o r - tunities to expe- r i e n c e Photo by Nicole Shirray Around Town! all that is Gumdo in Korea. That was a Kill Bill, minus fake blood). warding it is to get involved in the Around Ulsan. year and a half ago, and I’m still Like most martial arts, my class is culture. Gum Sarang will be host- The theme of our May issue is hooked. every morning during the week. ing a demonstration in Daldong Do you know a cool restaurant? A new place to chill? A local spot Once a month I join my 관장님 at the Jong Hwa Jae Yook Gwan that is the place to be seen? Then tell us all about it! All contributions Haedong Gumdo (East Sea Art of in Gyeongju with his group, Gum near City Hall, on April 28th (for are welcome, and other topics will be accepted as well. the Sword) has a very short his- Sarang (literally, Sword Love). more details e-mail Nicole). If you’d tory. It began on a mountain top We practice cutting bamboo and like to check out what it is we do, in 1961, but was first named Hae- straw and catch up with the other or just want to see some people Please send 500 words (and an accompanying photograph) dong Gumdo in the eighties The members. Most of them have been swing swords around, contact me to [email protected] before April 19th. If you have any art has developed to include basic learning Gumdo for years and for more information. questions, please feel free to ask! patterns, sparring with padded come from different areas of the swords (like nerf, but way better), city. This has been an amazing op- [email protected]