DRINKING l Angus Hughson in the clouds new zealand’s fame as a wine region was hard-earned, but its challenges are what help create world-beating vintages.

t is a common misconception that New Zealand is a young wine country. While it is certainly true Ithat the country’s ascent to the world stage with sauvignon blanc and pinot noir of great impact and style has only happened in the past three decades, New Zealand also has a long and proud history driven by a handful of leading wineries. Its story is not dissimilar to our own. Early settlers carried with them a handful of vines that slowly traversed the country. New Zealand’s cool, wet climate, though, is hardly as forgiving as our own, so it’s no great surprise that the spread of vines was much more prolific on our side of the Tasman. With a little care in regions such as the Hunter and Barossa Valleys, and even in what are now the suburbs of Sydney and Melbourne, grapevines could be easily nurtured and wine crafted by amateurs. The same was not quite true for New Zealand, where only the hardiest soul would attempt to forge a living out of

growing grapes and making wine. Ni c k ubbi n Missionaries were the first to have a crack, with New Zealand’s first vineyards planted before 1820 – no doubt for sacramental wine. The nation’s oldest still-existing vineyard was planted in 1851 by Roman Catholic missionaries in what is now Mission vintage, now gathered from a range of sites. It was only Estate, in Hawke’s Bay. In 1892, Te Mata Estate after considerable work in the vineyard and winery that followed in Hawkes Bay with plantings of cabernet the families were finally happy with what they could Te Mata Estate Coleraine 2016 sauvignon, , and pinot noir, first release as the winery’s pinnacle after their purchase, With fine colour, the wine shows fantastic aromatic bottled from the 1896 vintage. and so from the 1982 vintage the Coleraine was born, a complexity of cassis, graphite, cedar and gravel Today, more than 120 years since its first vintage, vintage that is still drinking well today. fruits. The palate is classic for a merlot blend: Te Mata Estate is considered one of New Zealand’s The Te Mata Estate Coleraine is a wine where fleshy red raspberry fruits on a bright and taut finest wineries. However, this was no overnight success. elegance and balance are at the fore. They are not palate underpinned by open knit, balanced tannins Despite its long winemaking history Te Mata and the wines of brute power and strength, as some from and some mocha scented oak. Still closed, the Hawke’s Bay region in general struggled for a long time Hawkes Bay can be, but rather wines built to age, as wine’s concentration, balance and structure for recognition. Vines were scarce, until recently, and was recently seen at a tasting of every Coleraine suggest it will drink well for a decade, if not two. the area was better known for its drag racing strip, vintage, stretching back over 35 years. rubbish dump, army firing range and quarry, under The hills of Havelock North are not in every Te Mata Estate Elston Chardonnay 2017 which were hidden gravelly soils and a climate vintage a place where great wines can be made – Elston is a very unique style of New Zealand superbly suited to fine wine production. drenching rain can sweep in off the Pacific Ocean, chardonnay made in a reserved and clean style But Te Mata Estate slowly built its reputation and hindering grapes as they struggle to ripen before the with subtle oak. Pretty floral and white peach no doubt played a part in the rise of Hawkes Bay. The autumn chill sets in. And it is this risk that brings to the fruit with understated spicy oak are followed by estate differs from most of the local vineyards. Unlike best vintages great quality. Just-ripened fruit with a crisp mid-weight, fruit-driven palate. It needs the famed low-lying local Gimblett gravels, with its brightness, concentration, acidity and balance are all some time to blossom. stony soils, the original vineyards of the Te Mata Estate handled with a gentle touch in the winery that allows sit on the picturesque hills of the Te Mata peak of the wines to shine. Te Mata Estate Bullnose 2016 Havelock North. This touch of altitude and cooler Over time the Coleraine style has evolved – merlot Although not Te Mata’s most famous wine, the aspect provides a beautifully elegant expression of taking the leading role from as new Bullnose is a superb expression of New Zealand Hawkes Bay, which Te Mata Estate is renowned for. plantings have come online. Despite the changes this syrah that is almost French in style with charcuterie While always considered a fine , is a wine that has not taken a backward step. In fact it and white pepper-scented fruits. Savoury, mid- it is only relatively recently under the Buck and Morris has prospered and, particularly since the 2004 vintage, weight and acid-driven the wine has lovely families, who purchased the property in 1974, that Te has cemented its reputation as one of New Zealand’s understated structure and balance – delicious now Mata has risen to its recent heights. This came with the finest wines. Almost 11 decades after the first releases but also with ageing potential. Coleraine, a blend of the winery’s finest cabernet from the estate, the rise of Te Mata’s Coleraine has sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc fruit of the been a long time coming, but well worth the wait. W

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