France Unplugged How the New ‘Vin De France’ Category Is Revolutionizing the Future of French Wine in America
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TODAy’s FRANCE FRANCE UNPLUGGED HOW THE NEW ‘VIN DE FRANCE’ CATEGORY IS REVOLUTIONIZING THE FUTURE OF FRENCH WINE IN AMERICA BY KRISTEN BIELER or most wine-producing nations, it’s easier to sell ers for the first time are permitted to blend grapes from different value-priced wines abroad than it is to drum up regions. Growers also are now able to cultivate grape varieties previ- demand for luxury bottlings. France, however, ously unauthorized in their region. “A lot of growers are frustrated F suffers from the opposite problem. “At the high-end with the AOC regulations which impose a very strict idea of terroir French wines are the most respected in the world, and tradition,” says Bruno Kessler, President of Anivin de France, a but at the low-end we have lost ground totally,” says Bertrand French trade organization dedicated to promoting the new category. Girard, President, Val d’Orbieu, the largest still-wine cooperative So far, the Vin de France group has 766 members, 400 of which are in France. “Why? Because we are not making the right wines for independent growers who bottle their own wines. this market. Complexity and diversity are our strengths, but for entry-level drinkers, French wines are difficult to navigate.” FRENCH WINE FOR THE AMERICAN PALATE The Vin de France category aims to change this. “Vin de The Vin de France category was officially created in 2009 and took France is a new paradigm for French wine with the express pur- off immediately. According to Valérie Pajotin, Managing Director, pose of regaining market share in the international marketplace,” Anivin de France, the Vin de France category already accounts for Girard explains. 25% of still wine exports out of France. However, until an Alco- For a country so steeped in tradition, the category’s implications hol and Tobacco Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB) ruling late last year, are quite significant: Under the Vin de France guidelines, produc- Vin de France wines imported to the U.S. weren’t allowed to bear TODAy’s FRANCE a vintage date. So while bulk shipments which represents Val d’Orbieu in the U.S. of Vin de France wine into the American VIN DE FRANCE Their Réserve St. Martin brand has been market have been rapidly increasing, the AT A GLANCE taking full advantage of the new winemak- category’s real potential will only now be ing freedoms to craft wines that Genova realized, Kessler believes. describes as “a bit more yummy” than be- A fast-growing number of French fore. One of Genova’s largest customers, the producers are seizing the opportunity to 100-store giant Total Wine, reported a 25% create wines like their New World coun- jump in Réserve St. Martin Chardonnay. terparts. Sacha Lichine, the man behind “It gives the chef in the winery access to a Provence’s elite Château d’Esclans label, greater array of ingredients,” he explains. is debuting a white, red and rosé under While place and terroir are funda- an eponymous label (each $12.99 SRP). mental to French wine historically, the “The potential of the assemblage is incred- international consumer shops by variety. ible,” he asserts. “The ability to blend “Where a wine comes from is not that from different regions allows me to create French important to the value wine shopper to- Vintage wines of greater complexity.” Origin day,” believes Genova. “The consumer is Another benefit is vintage consis- flexible—they are happy to buy a Char- tency, says Laurent Delaunay, President Varietal donnay from Chile, Spain, California or of Burgundy-based Badet Clément & France. France is now able to compete Co., which is introducing brands Pâtis- for the New World consumer, who is a serie du Vin and La Belle Angèle. “I am varietal consumer above all else.” While able to blend Syrah from the Southwest it is designed for the value tier, it won’t which imparts acidity and freshness with n Officially created in 2009 be long before some luxury wine produc- Syrah from Languedoc for fruit charac- n Strong brands with competitive ers take advantage of the looser Vin de ter and Syrah from Rhône for earthiness pricing and simple labels indicating France laws to produce wines outside of and texture.” He describes Pâtisserie as a vintage, varietal and French origin the restrictive regional laws. “concept brand” like Cupcake Vineyards There remains some confusion in the n Grapes can come from any or Ménage à Trois. Past attempts to cre- marketplace, and Kessler doesn’t expect region of France; no restrictions on ate brands like these in France (such as that to disappear overnight. He fields a blending Red Bicyclette and Pinot Evil) were con- lot of questions from the trade—such as strained by the old blending rules, so they n The Vin de France category “Is Vin de France a place to dump Vin de didn’t really stand a chance next to simi- now comprises 25% of French wine Pays wine that won’t sell?”—but he ex- larly priced, New World-styled wines, says exports, and sales have quadrupled plains that this is something completely Kessler: “They weren’t matching up with in three years different: “We are not trying to be anyone the American palate.” n The U.S. currently represents else or copy the wines of other countries. 4% of Vin de France market share We are proud to be French and proud of VARIETY VS. ORIGIN abroad, primarily because TTB our AOC system which made us what we The marketplace is already responding well limited vintage-dated imports until are. Vin de France represents a new way of to new Vin de France wines, says Richard 2012; the figure is certain to rise as producing wine in France with the inter- Genova, President of Vintage Epicure, new brands are introduced national consumer in mind.” n VIN DE FRANCE: BENDING THE MOLD TUSSOCK PATISSERIE LA PETITE LES ALLIÉS PETITE SACHA JUMPER Chardonnay- PERRIÈRE Long EDITION LICHINE Chardonnay Muscat Loire specialist maceration Three distinct This epitomizes grapes from combo; draws Saget’s ultra- yields an vineyards were the new different parts inspiration fresh Sauv aromatic, tapped for blending of France; from the tarte Blanc shows ripe and this balanced freedom 1/3 barrel tatin (French peach and velvety-smooth small- by melding fermented, 2/3 apple tart) melon Cabernet production Grenache, stainless steel Sauvignon Grenache Syrah & Merlot.