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Clothing and the Colonial Culture of Appearances in Nineteenth Century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) Stéphanie Marie R

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Clothing and the Colonial Culture of Appearances in Nineteenth Century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) Stéphanie Marie R Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) Stéphanie Marie R. Coo To cite this version: Stéphanie Marie R. Coo. Clothing and the colonial culture of appearances in nineteenth century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896). History. Université Nice Sophia Antipolis, 2014. English. NNT : 2014NICE2028. tel-01126974 HAL Id: tel-01126974 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01126974 Submitted on 6 Mar 2015 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. UNIVERSITÉ NICE SOPHIA ANTIPOLIS Ecole doctorale « Lettres, Sciences Humaines et Sociales » Thèse de Doctorat d’Histoire pour obtenir le grade de DOCTEUR DE L’UNIVERSITÉ NICE SOPHIA ANTIPOLIS Présentée et soutenue publiquement le 3 octobre 2014 par Stephanie Marie R. COO CLOTHING AND THE COLONIAL CULTURE OF APPEARANCES IN NINETEENTH CENTURY SPANISH PHILIPPINES (1820-1896) Volume I Directeur de thèse : Xavier HUETZ DE LEMPS JURY : Mme. Maria Luisa T. CAMAGAY, professeure d’histoire contemporaine, University of the Philippines Mme. María Dolores ELIZALDE PÉREZ-GRUESO, directrice de recherches, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Instituto de Historia, Madrid M. Xavier HUETZ DE LEMPS, professeur d’histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia Antipolis Mme. Claire LAUX, professeure d’histoire contemporaine, Institut d’Études Politiques de Bordeaux Mme. Silvia MARZAGALLI, professeure d’histoire contemporaine, Université Nice Sophia Antipolis For my mother, Liza R. Coo and my brother, Winston “Tonchi” Coo, who passed away during the course of writing this work… TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES I ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS II CONVENTIONS V ABBREVIATIONS VII PART I: INTRODUCTION 1 Statement of the problem 3 Significance of the Study 4 Review of Related Literature 5 Theoretical Framework 15 Methodology 22 Data Processing Method 22 Design and Strategy 23 Scope and Limitations 33 Limits of Sources 35 Chapter Summaries 38 PART II DRESS IN PHILIPPINE COLONIAL SOCIETY 42 Chapter 1 Historical and Colonial Context 42 The Colonizers 44 The Colonized 46 Between Colonizers and Colonized 47 The Evolving Colonial Class System 49 Late 19th century Colonial Class System 53 Clothing and Appearance in the Context of Evolving Social Relations 58 Connecting Clothing and Appearance with Race and Class 66 Social and Sartorial Mobilities 69 Clothing, Catholicism and Civilization 72 Non-Christianized Natives 75 Non-Christianized Women 80 Moros 81 Lowland, Christianized Natives 83 Chapter 2 Evolution of Native Fashions 87 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Women’s Fashions 87 Philippine Style: Late 18th Century to 1830s 89 Women from Northern Luzon and the Visayas 96 1840s-1860s 98 1860 onwards: The Tapís on the Discourse on Race and Class 105 Religious Accessories 120 Jackets and Overcoats 121 Women from the Common Classes 121 Evolution in the Context of the Changing Roles and Images of Women 130 The Education of Women 130 Cultural Representations of Talented, Upper-Class Women 134 La india rica: The Look and Qualities of Urbanized, Wealthy Women 140 Fashion and the Feminine Character 146 Clothes in the Context of Evolving Gender Roles and Relations 148 Evolution of Lowland, Christianized Men’s clothing 161 1820-1840 164 1840 onwards 167 Tucked out 171 Evolution of the Attires of Common Men 175 The Relationship between Labor and Clothes 183 Late 19th century Clothing Changes: Signs of Progress or Unrest? 189 Convergence Explained 192 Mestizos 194 Mestizo Women’s Fashions: Reconciling Clothes, Class and Race 196 The Two Mestizas 198 Mestizo Men 201 Racial, Cultural and Sartorial Hybridity 203 Chapter 3 Clothing Practices of the Foreigners in the Philippines 207 Europeans 207 Clothing of Creole Men 208 Clothing of Creole Women 212 Peninsular and Other European Women 216 Spanish Governor-Generals 223 Peninsular and Other European Male Professionals 227 Other Europeans 232 Section Conclusion 240 Chinese in the Philippines 242 The Manchu Style: In Brief 244 The Clothing and Appearance of the Chinese Men in the Philippines 245 John Chinaman: The Wealthy chino comerciante 251 The Middling and Lower Classes 256 Chinese Women 261 Section Conclusion 262 PART III. CLOTHING AND SOCIAL DISTINCTION IN PHILIPPINE COLONIAL SOCIETY 266 Chapter 4 Balancing Pomp and Pageantry with Modesty and Propriety through Clothing 266 Cultural Values relating to Clothing and Appearance 267 Hygiene 267 Propriety 272 Modesty 280 Applications of Colonial Values in Dress 283 Clothing in Colonial Street Spectacles 283 Bajo las campanas: Life under the Church Bells 290 Death and Mourning 303 Rivers and Bathing 314 Leisure Time at Home 318 The Spectrum between Everyday and Special Attires 323 Chapter 5 Clothing at a Time of Waning and Emerging Power 326 The Gobernadorcillo and his Clothes 326 Children’s Clothing 343 Students and the Appearance of “may pinag-aralan” 359 Convent School Girls 362 Male Students 365 Ilustrados 374 PART IV THE PHILIPPINE CLOTHING ECONOMY 383 Chapter 6 Domestic Textile and Clothing Industry 383 Textile Production 383 Galleons and Textiles 383 Lowland Weaving Traditions 387 Types and Uses of Textiles 398 Textile Distribution 404 Street Weavers 405 Local Marketplaces 406 Provincial Exports To Manila 408 Sinamayeras 410 Chinese Entrepreneurs and Peddlers 417 From Cloth to Clothes 420 Sastres and Costureras 425 The Scrupulous and Unscrupulous Tailors 432 The Maintenance and Upkeep of Clothes 434 Cost of Hygiene 434 Laundry and the Lavanderas 437 Ironing and the Planchadoras 442 Advancements in the Clothes Trade 443 A Taste for the Imported 443 Imported Textiles, Half-made and Ready-made Clothing 448 Imported Ready-Made Clothing for Provincial Orders 453 New Shopping Experience 454 CONCLUSION 460 RECOMMENDATIONS 479 SOURCES 481 Philippine Material Culture in Europe 481 Primary Sources 483 Primary Iconographic Sources 483 Primary Iconographic Sources: Tipos del País 486 Tipos del país before the 19th Century 486 Tipos del país in the 19th century 489 Tipos del país before the 1860s 489 Tipos del país after the 1860s 499 Photographs 501 Primary Material Source: Garments 503 Primary Written Sources 505 Travel Accounts. 505 Periodicals 508 Advertisements 513 Catalogues 514 Novels 516 Oral Sources: Interviews 521 GLOSSARY 522 BIBLIOGRAPHY 538 PERIODICALS 590 INDEX 596 LIST OF TABLES TABLE 1: EXISTING COLONIAL SOCIAL STRUCTURE 25 TABLE 2: PROPOSED SARTORIAL STRUCTURE 26 TABLE 3: ORGANIZATION OF PART II OF THIS DISSERTATION 27 TABLE 4: ESTIMATED POPULATION OF THE PHILIPPINES, 1890 228 TABLE 5: TEXTILE IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, 1844-1894 393 TABLE 6: VALUE OF PHILIPPINE COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS FROM SPAIN AND THEIR RATIO TO TOTAL COTTON TEXTILE IMPORTS, 1883-1895 398 TABLE 7: COST OF LABOR 424 TABLE 8: AVERAGE HOUSEHOLD BUDGET, FOR A SINGLE PERSON, 1885 436 i ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Stored in several wooden baúl were textiles of all kinds, which my grandmother collected through the years in preparation for the marriages of her seven children. It was customary among Philippine-Chinese families like ours to present betrothal gifts of textiles and jewelry to the bride’s family. I grew up hearing the words hablon (a type of woven textile), piña, jusi, borda (embroidery) while surrounded by costureras (seamstresses), who came in the morning and went home at dusk. My interest in studying the socio-cultural and economic context of dress was a consequence of these childhood experiences. I would like to posthumously thank my good friend, Randolph de Jesus, who led me to combine my interests in history, textiles and clothing by studying them ‘historically.’ I will be forever grateful to my adviser, Dr. Xavier Huetz de Lemps – the best adviser any Ph.D. student could ever have—whose wise words never failed to steer me into the right direction. Thank you for generously taking the time to read, discuss, offer comments and suggestions as I struggled to read and survive in French, do research in Spanish, translate, organize and write my work. Heartfelt thanks to Dr. Francis Gealogo for seeing past my frivolity and for actually believing in me. His critical reading of some parts of my manuscript was truly invaluable. To Dr. Filomeno Aguilar who, in seeing that I was struggling with access to scholarly journals, made sure that the resources of the Rizal Library would be made available to me, even if I was on- leave and offshore. I am also grateful for the warm welcome and assistance that Dr. Silvia Marzagalli (CMMC) extended to me. I was extremely fortunate to have the support of the Erasmus Mundus Mobility with Asia (EMMA) during the period I was doing research and writing my dissertation. I wish to specifically thank Dr. Marc and Francine Diener for providing assistance throughout the course of my studies and my sojourn here in France. I would also like to thank Ana Tomás Hernández and Ana López Pajarón of the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Madrid, who allowed me to inspect the actual 19th century garments in their collection. I also appreciate the book on Piña that MNA Director, Pilar Romero de Tejada gave me. I would also like to thank Dr. Elvira González Asenjo of the Museo del Traje in Madrid, who despite the rush during fashion week, took the time to show me, among other things, the nipis baptismal gown of King Alfonso XIII. I also appreciate the assistance of the kind and helpful staff of Hemeroteca Municipal in Madrid. ii Certainly, I will not forget the charming and jolly, Fr. Policarpo Hernández, who took out stacks of 19th century periodicals for me to peruse over at the Estudio Teológico Agustiniano de Valladolid.
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