wide world of craft Island Enclave: San Juan, In this sunny story by Caribbean city, Liz Logan traditional crafts remain a contemporary practice.

Old San Juan Loíza Aldea

PR2 PR2

PR3 San Juan

Jayuya PR1

Vieques

PR1 PR2 ´ Old San Juan, Guayama Loíza Aldea, and Ponce are among Ponce the centers of craft in Puerto Rico.

puerto rico’s most allur- Museum of the Americas. But three centuries, San Juan was ˝ old san juan ing aspect may be its idyllic those institutions also show- the major legislative and mili- San Juan was built in the early 1500s as a beaches, but in the capital of case striking examples of craft, tary outpost of the Spanish Spanish colony. Today San Juan, the culture is just as including a permanent folk art empire in Central America it’s a destination for rich as the landscape. In the exhibit at the Museum of the and the Caribbean. The reli- fine art and craft, par- ticularly in the Old San historic district of Old San Americas. In Quincentennial gion and culture the Spanish Juan neighborhood. Juan – characterized by colonial- Plaza, the towering center- brought had a huge influence era buildings in a rainbow of piece is El Tótem Telúrico on Puerto Rican life, but there colors, charming cobblestone (Earth Totem) by renowned were also African traditions streets, and imposing seaside contemporary sculptor Jaime brought over by slaves, and fortresses – it quickly becomes Suárez. In both fine art and aspects of the indigenous Taí- clear just how much Puerto craft, the traditions are varied no culture also survived. Ricans cherish their artistic and vibrant. “Artists and artisans are our traditions. Work by Puerto The richness is in part the cultural ambassadors,” says Rican artists, such as result of the many cultural Pavlova Mezquida Greber, a by 19th-century master José intersections and upheavals museum consultant and former Campeche, are displayed in Puerto Rican history. In the director of the Crafts Develop- widely in museums, such as early 1500s, the Spaniards colo- ment Program, a government

the National Gallery and the nized Puerto Rico, and for initiative that supports artisans. Photo: Nikolay Tzolov

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wide world of world craft wide in OldSanJuan. a galleryandboutique (“Three Women”), Vivoni run3Mujeres Elvira, andYelyn Enid Silvestry,Dafne ´ 3mujeres 092 of themtoliveontheirearnings craft itemsinPuertoRican of saints–arethepredominant carved idols,theSpanishmis- Puerto Rican artists have received Puerto Ricanartistshavereceived as theFiestasdelaCalleSan are widelyproduced,mostlyin on Taíno traditions of Drawing onTaínotraditionsof selling theirworkatfairs,such stores andcraftfairs,they such asceramicsandwoodcarv- sponsored programsoffertrain- sionaries startedthistradition tions toteachabroad,andmany the westernpartofcountry. for artisans,whichallowsmany Sebastián, apopularcarnival university andgovernment- held inOldSanJuanJanuary. international prizesandinvita- ing. There’s also government aid ing whereartistscanlearncrafts inhabitants could haveChristian in the16thcenturysothat Santos –woodencarvings american craft craft american dec/jan 16 Aldea (commonlyknownas The traditionwaspasseddown The southerncityofPonce, carnival, istheepicenterof Old SanJuan,whilelargerver- which isfamousforitspre-Lent worn byrevelerscalledvejigan- tes atislandfestivalsareanother and Taínomask-makingrituals. are stillentirefamilies,suchas Loíza), whoseresidentshave dition alsomeldedwithAfrican saints toprayintheirhomes. sions cancostasmuch$1,000. sell formodestpricesinshops the Ortafamily,thatareknown through generations,andthere popular craftthatcanbetraced papier-mâché máscaras(masks) mask-making tradition.Near for theirsantos.Smallversions San Juan,thetownofLoíza largely African roots, isalso back totheSpanish,buttra- Ornate andfrightening other goods. pillows, towels,and ings anddrawingson ored embroideredpaint- women inbrightlycol- lives ofindependent portrays theeveryday as agallerist,Silvestry A textileartistaswell silvestry ˝ enid ceramics, and jewelry.Some ceramics, ognized internationallyforthis of thepapier-mâchéhornsand ors anddetailedmotifs.Instead of PonceandLoízawithhis of paintedhalvescoconut Rios Fernándezhasbeenrec- mundillos, aproductofSpanish genre –musicalinstruments, do mergesthemasktraditions such aswovenhammocksand sticks thattypicallyadorn small coconutmasksmeticu- shells. Francisco“Panchi”Tira- ticed onlyinPuerto Ricoand traditional crafts,however, respectively, hismasksfeature renowned foritsmasks,made masks fromPonceandLoíza, he paints. lously paintedwithbrightcol- idiosyncratic branchesthat bobbin lace-makingnowprac- bird carvings–artistAlex Other popularcraftsare

American influenceintothe carries workbyabout60arti- of PuertoRicanArt&Crafts, country, kickingoffaboom II economicprogram,brought Juan. HenotesthatOperation Bootstrap, apost-WorldWar and importedhammocksare a traditionthatgoesbackto shop, whichisadestinationfor sans and30fineartistsinhis tain asimilarlevelofquality. to Greber.Mass-producedlace to developtheir ownstyle,” the Taíno. traditional craftsinOldSan much moreaffordableandmain- nurtured manyceramicartists , aredyingout,according it wasaplacepeoplecouldgo ists “hadahighaesthetic,and in the1980s.Thefoundingart- in ceramicsandreawakening Tony AmadorFox,owner The nonprofitCasaCandina woman’s belly. truding fromapregnant mask fromLoízapro- depicts anAfrican-style (Birth oftheVejigante) Nacimiento deVejigante identity inhiswork. themes ofraceand explores complicated Díaz, asculptor, díaz césar ´ julio

Portrait: Courtesy of 3Mujeres Other photos: Liz Logan Puerto Rican craft traditions are varied and vibrant.

Ï francisco tirado Known as a prolific maker of ornate papier- mâché masks, Tirado cre- ates and sells hundreds of masks each year for cos- tumed festival revelers called vejigantes.

˝ miguel caraballo A well-known mask- maker, Caraballo, along with his wife and son, creates masks in Ponce. His work is in the National Museum of American History.

Ï loíza aldea artists Artists from Loíza Aldea, a town near San Juan, use coconut shell halves instead of papier- mâché to create masks, then embellish them with painted sticks. This mask is in the collection of the Museum of the Americas in San Juan. wide world of world craft wide 094 larger wallpieces. ate soulfulfigurinesand raku techniquestocre- A ceramist,Jordánuses ´ roxannajordán grove), leavesformedofwood combines ceramicsandunpaint- contests andexhibitions. Old SanJuan:Nostalgia(Think - Greber recalls.Thegalleryand tu delMangle(SpiritoftheMan- Puerto Rico’shistory:InEspíri- and clayhidethefaceofablack ( Díaz alsolovesthehistoryin grapple withissuesofracein dows inthearea. ed carvedwood,avehicleto ing ofYou)featuresimages style mask from Loíza protrudes style maskfromLoízaprotrudes teaching facilityclosedin1992, the colorfulstainedglasswin- raku techniques tocreatesmall, man; inNacimientodeVejigante mote the art form by sponsoring from apregnantwoman’sbelly. is RoxannaJordán,whouses but thegroupcontinuestopro- Birth oftheVejigante),anAfrican- Another notedceramicartist Julio CésarDíaz’swork american craft craft american dec/jan 16 “three women”),agalleryandbou- Yelyn Vivoni, a ceramic artist, Yelyn Vivoni,aceramicartist, Ángel Botello.Thegallery 3Mujeres (which translates as 3Mujeres (whichtranslatesas work areondisplayatGalería wire. Shespentdecadesdevelop - you want to make a living,” she you wanttomake aliving,”she your wholeheartintocraft if Botello, ownedbyJuan antique santos. also featuresacollectionof Dafne Elvira, a painter. Vivoni’s Dafne Elvira,apainter.Vivoni’s Enid Silvestry,atextileartist,and soulful figurinesandlargerwall shapes, some suspended with shapes, somesuspendedwith the sonofrenownedpainter selling her work at craft fairs and selling herworkatcraftfairsand tique openedafewyearsagoby pieces, suchasTheBookofLove. pieces often feature organic pieces oftenfeatureorganic rior design commissions and rior designcommissionsand museum shops. “You have to put museum shops.“Youhavetoput ing herreputationthroughinte - Both Díaz’sandJordán’s Not far from Botello is Not farfromBotellois beads ontosilk. by sewingsequinsand traits, whichshecreates carnaval-inspired por- known forherelaborate Wilson isatextileartist now livinginMiami, A PuertoRicannative Ï patriciawilson

The messagesinherpieces often sell, and they have many often sell,andtheyhavemany ceramic bowls–inadditionto women, suchas“Estamoshechos prendidas” (“Wearemadetobe para seramadas,nocom - artists offersmallitems–hand- as achild.“My mother said are meanttoreflectthelives of dered text.She’sinspiredby says. Sincesomuchoftheecono- street scenesinOldSanJuan. that thelarge,priceypieces their large-scaleworks.They’ve painted purses, printed pillows, painted purses,printedpillows, running stitchesandembroi- ric, thenoutlinesthemwith repeat customers. my relies on tourism, the three my reliesontourism,thethree music, dance,spirituality,and loved, notunderstood”). brightly coloredfiguresonfab- been pleasantly surprised, though, been pleasantly surprised, though, Silvestry drawsandpaints She learnedhowtosew

A sense of history Puerto Rican Rican Puerto work of many artists. permeates the “paintings,” availableatGalería York Cityandontheisland. As intheworkofsomany Liz Loganis aBrooklynfreelance only thingthatwouldfocusmy publications. writer whoseworkhasappearedin Puerto Ricanwomendidfor Puerto Ricanartists,history Botello, aremadebysewing Rican nativewhonowlives the NewYorkTimesandother energy,” sherecalls. the garmentindustryinNew thousands ofsequinsand tiles; hercarnaval-inspired making skills,aswellthe labor demujer,pieceworkthat needle andthreadwerethe is alwayspresent. inspired byhermother’sdress- in Miami,alsoworkstex- beads ontosilk.Shewas Patricia Wilson,aPuerto run by Ángel’s son, Juan. run byÁngel’sson,Juan. seen atGaleríaBotello, collected, andcanbe late artistÁngelBotello are among10,000the These antiquefigures to the16thcentury. tradition datingback ings ofsaints–area Santos –woodencarv- ´ santos

Photos: Liz Logan Ï´ quincentennial plaza This plaza, which boasts San Juan’s high- est point – not to men- tion an enviable view of the Atlantic – is also home to Jaime Suárez’s El Tótem Telúrico (Earth Totem). The 40-foot sculpture was built in 1992 to mark the 500th anniversary of the arrival of Europeans in the New World.

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