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wide world of craft Island Enclave: San Juan, Puerto Rico In this sunny story by Caribbean city, Liz Logan traditional crafts remain a contemporary practice. Old San Juan Loíza Aldea PR2 PR2 PR3 San Juan Jayuya PR1 Vieques PR1 PR2 ´ Old San Juan, Guayama Loíza Aldea, and Ponce are among Ponce the centers of craft in Puerto Rico. puerto rico’s most allur- Museum of the Americas. But three centuries, San Juan was ˝ old san juan ing aspect may be its idyllic those institutions also show- the major legislative and mili- San Juan was built in the early 1500s as a beaches, but in the capital of case striking examples of craft, tary outpost of the Spanish Spanish colony. Today San Juan, the culture is just as including a permanent folk art empire in Central America it’s a destination for rich as the landscape. In the exhibit at the Museum of the and the Caribbean. The reli- fine art and craft, par- ticularly in the Old San historic district of Old San Americas. In Quincentennial gion and culture the Spanish Juan neighborhood. Juan – characterized by colonial- Plaza, the towering center- brought had a huge influence era buildings in a rainbow of piece is El Tótem Telúrico on Puerto Rican life, but there colors, charming cobblestone (Earth Totem) by renowned were also African traditions streets, and imposing seaside contemporary sculptor Jaime brought over by slaves, and fortresses – it quickly becomes Suárez. In both fine art and aspects of the indigenous Taí- clear just how much Puerto craft, the traditions are varied no culture also survived. Ricans cherish their artistic and vibrant. “Artists and artisans are our traditions. Work by Puerto The richness is in part the cultural ambassadors,” says Rican artists, such as paintings result of the many cultural Pavlova Mezquida Greber, a by 19th-century master José intersections and upheavals museum consultant and former Campeche, are displayed in Puerto Rican history. In the director of the Crafts Develop- widely in museums, such as early 1500s, the Spaniards colo- ment Program, a government the National Gallery and the nized Puerto Rico, and for initiative that supports artisans. Photo: Nikolay Tzolov 090 american craft dec/jan 16 wide world of craft ´ 3mujeres ˝ enid silvestry ´ julio césar díaz Enid Silvestry, Dafne A textile artist as well Díaz, a sculptor, Elvira, and Yelyn as a gallerist, Silvestry explores complicated Vivoni run 3Mujeres portrays the everyday themes of race and (“Three Women”), lives of independent identity in his work. a gallery and boutique women in brightly col- Nacimiento de Vejigante in Old San Juan. ored embroidered paint- (Birth of the Vejigante) ings and drawings on depicts an African-style pillows, towels, and mask from Loíza pro- other goods. truding from a pregnant woman’s belly. Puerto Rican artists have received saints to pray to in their homes. renowned for its masks, made Spain, are dying out, according international prizes and invita- The tradition was passed down of painted halves of coconut to Greber. Mass-produced lace tions to teach abroad, and many through generations, and there shells. Francisco “Panchi” Tira- and imported hammocks are university and government- are still entire families, such as do merges the mask traditions much more affordable and main- sponsored programs offer train- the Orta family, that are known of Ponce and Loíza with his tain a similar level of quality. ing where artists can learn crafts for their santos. Small versions small coconut masks meticu- Tony Amador Fox, owner such as ceramics and woodcarv- sell for modest prices in shops in lously painted with bright col- of Puerto Rican Art & Crafts, ing. There’s also government aid Old San Juan, while larger ver- ors and detailed motifs. Instead carries work by about 60 arti- for artisans, which allows many sions can cost as much as $1,000. of the papier-mâché horns and sans and 30 fine artists in his of them to live on their earnings Ornate and frightening sticks that typically adorn shop, which is a destination for selling their work at fairs, such papier-mâché máscaras (masks) masks from Ponce and Loíza, traditional crafts in Old San as the Fiestas de la Calle San worn by revelers called vejigan- respectively, his masks feature Juan. He notes that Operation Sebastián, a popular carnival tes at island festivals are another idiosyncratic branches that Bootstrap, a post-World War held in Old San Juan in January. popular craft that can be traced he paints. II economic program, brought Santos – wooden carvings back to the Spanish, but the tra- Other popular crafts are American influence into the of saints – are the predominant dition also melded with African bird carvings – artist Alex country, kicking off a boom craft items in Puerto Rican and Taíno mask-making rituals. Rios Fernández has been rec- in ceramics and reawakening stores and craft fairs, and they The southern city of Ponce, ognized internationally for this a tradition that goes back to are widely produced, mostly in which is famous for its pre-Lent genre – musical instruments, the Taíno. the western part of the country. carnival, is the epicenter of the ceramics, and jewelry. Some The nonprofit Casa Candina Drawing on Taíno traditions of mask-making tradition. Near traditional crafts, however, nurtured many ceramic artists carved idols, the Spanish mis- San Juan, the town of Loíza such as woven hammocks and in the 1980s. The founding art- sionaries started this tradition Aldea (commonly known as mundillos, a product of Spanish ists “had a high aesthetic, and in the 16th century so that the Loíza), whose residents have bobbin lace-making now prac- it was a place people could go inhabitants could have Christian largely African roots, is also ticed only in Puerto Rico and to develop their own style,” Portrait: Courtesy of 3Mujeres Other photos: Liz Logan 092 american craft dec/jan 16 Puerto Rican craft traditions are varied and vibrant. Ï francisco tirado Known as a prolific maker of ornate papier- mâché masks, Tirado cre- ates and sells hundreds of masks each year for cos- tumed festival revelers called vejigantes. ˝ miguel caraballo A well-known mask- maker, Caraballo, along with his wife and son, creates masks in Ponce. His work is in the National Museum of American History. Ï loíza aldea artists Artists from Loíza Aldea, a town near San Juan, use coconut shell halves instead of papier- mâché to create masks, then embellish them with painted sticks. This mask is in the collection of the Museum of the Americas in San Juan. wide world of craft A sense of history permeates the work of many Puerto Rican artists. ´ roxanna jordán Ï patricia wilson ´ santos A ceramist, Jordán uses A Puerto Rican native Santos – wooden carv- raku techniques to cre- now living in Miami, ings of saints – are a ate soulful figurines and Wilson is a textile artist tradition dating back larger wall pieces. known for her elaborate to the 16th century. carnaval-inspired por- These antique figures traits, which she creates are among 10,000 the by sewing sequins and late artist Ángel Botello beads onto silk. collected, and can be seen at Galería Botello, run by Ángel’s son, Juan. Greber recalls. The gallery and soulful figurines and larger wall says. Since so much of the econo- needle and thread were the teaching facility closed in 1992, pieces, such as The Book of Love. my relies on tourism, the three only thing that would focus my but the group continues to pro- Both Díaz’s and Jordán’s artists offer small items – hand- energy,” she recalls. mote the art form by sponsoring work are on display at Galería painted purses, printed pillows, Patricia Wilson, a Puerto contests and exhibitions. Botello, owned by Juan Botello, ceramic bowls – in addition to Rican native who now lives Julio César Díaz’s work the son of renowned painter their large-scale works. They’ve in Miami, also works in tex- combines ceramics and unpaint- Ángel Botello. The gallery been pleasantly surprised, though, tiles; her carnaval-inspired ed carved wood, a vehicle to also features a collection of that the large, pricey pieces “paintings,” available at Galería grapple with issues of race in antique santos. often sell, and they have many Botello, are made by sewing Puerto Rico’s history: In Espíri- Not far from Botello is repeat customers. thousands of sequins and tu del Mangle (Spirit of the Man- 3Mujeres (which translates as Silvestry draws and paints beads onto silk. She was grove), leaves formed of wood “three women”), a gallery and bou- brightly colored figures on fab- inspired by her mother’s dress- and clay hide the face of a black tique opened a few years ago by ric, then outlines them with making skills, as well as the man; in Nacimiento de Vejigante Yelyn Vivoni, a ceramic artist, running stitches and embroi- labor de mujer, piecework that (Birth of the Vejigante), an African- Enid Silvestry, a textile artist, and dered text. She’s inspired by Puerto Rican women did for style mask from Loíza protrudes Dafne Elvira, a painter. Vivoni’s music, dance, spirituality, and the garment industry in New from a pregnant woman’s belly. pieces often feature organic street scenes in Old San Juan. York City and on the island. Díaz also loves the history in shapes, some suspended with The messages in her pieces As in the work of so many Old San Juan: Nostalgia (Think- wire. She spent decades develop- are meant to reflect the lives of Puerto Rican artists, history ing of You) features images of ing her reputation through inte- women, such as “Estamos hechos is always present.

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