LIBRARY ^fsSSACH^^ 1895 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Boston Library Consortium Member Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/dictionaryofneed05caul THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. FINE ENGLISH EMBROIDERY, FINISHED WITH LACE STITCHES AND "BABY LACE," WORKED IN THE 18th CENTURY. RAISED EMBROIDERY ON MUSLIN. DEDICATED TO H.R.H. PRINCESS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LORNE. THE Dl6TI0]];5RY OB I^EEDIiETHO^^, ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ARTISTIC, PLAIN, AND PANCY NEEDLEWORK, DEALING FULLY WITH THE DETAILS OF ALL THE STITCHES EMPLOYED, THE METHOD OF WORKING, THE MATERIALS USED, THE MEANING OF TECHNICAL TEEMS, AND, WHERE NECESSARY, TRACING THE ORIGIN AND HISTORY OP THE VARIOUS WORKS DESCRIBED. ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF 1200 WOOD ENGRAVINGS, AND COLOURED PLATES. PLAIN SEWING, TEXTILES, DRESSMAKING, APPLIANCES, AND TERMS, By S. p. a. CAULPEILD, Author of *^Sick Nursing at Home" '^Desynond," '^Avencle" and Papers on Needlework in "-The Queen" "Girl's Own Paper,' Domestic Dictionanj," ttc. CHUKCH EMBROIDERY, LACE, AND ORNAMENTAL NEEDLEWORK, By blanche C. SAWARD, Author of ^^ Church Festival Decorations" and Papers on Fancy and Art Work in "The Bazaar," "-Artistic Amicsements," ^'Girl's Own Paper," etc. Division V. — Pat to Tat. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: A. W. COWAN, 30 AND 31, NEW BRIDGE STREET, LUDGATE CIRCUS. LONDON: PRINTED BY A. BRADLEY, 170, ST ^./?^ c^9V? Cn THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. 385 Procure a number of pieces of silk, three shades of one it even on its sti-aight width with the bottom line of square, colour, such as pink, crimson, and maroon, of which the and let the overlap and the point come at the top ; to this darker shade is brocaded. Out out a diamond on paper, end, but not to the point, join another long piece in the length 3 inches, width 2 inches, from point to point ; out same way, fit it into the overlap where it is straight, and of one side of this cut out a right angle, leaving 1 inch join its short 2-inch length to the top of the square, allow- upon each line, and cutting it to the depth of 1 inch, ing the overlap and the point to be to the right hand. thus making the shape required for the design. Have Come down the right side of the square, and put a piece this cut in tin, and fi'om that cut out an equal number of sections from each coloured silk, and then join them together, according to the pattern; sew together the Bti-aight side of a ruby and crimson section with the cut-out edge to the right and left, and fit a pink section into the angle at the top of these two, with its cut-out edge upright. Make up all the pieces in this manner, and then join the figures together. The cut-out edge of the light pink of one figure will fit into the bottom angle of the crimson and maroon colours, and the angles at the sides of these sections will fit into the sides of a fresh row of figures. In making this pattern, care must be taken that the position of the colours is never altered. Tinted.—A new variety, made with coloured muslin of a stiff description, and of four shades of one tint. The material is cut into hexagons, and embroidered witli Fig. 655. Twist Patchwork, coloured filoselles and tailor's black twist. The hexagons are arranged to form stars, rosettes, and other devices, on at the bottom of the square ; in the same manner join all the dark shades of colour being arranged in the centre the long pieces to all the squares. Now arrange the of device, and the light colours at the edge. To the cubes as to colour, and join them to the long pieces. work: Cut out, on paper, a large eight-pointed star, or The short corners of the cubes will fit into the points other device ; then a number of hfexagons, 2 inches in of the long pieces, four different cubes will join the four diameter. Use four shades of blue, crimson, purple, different points, and the straight parts will fit into the yellow, green, or other colours, arranging that each ray straight lines of the long pieces. of the star is worked with a distinct colour. The hexagons Patent Flannels (Welsh and Saxony).—A very fine fill centres with a star worked with yellow, cut, their quality of Flannel, said not to shrink when washed, but white, or a shaded filoselle, and over this star, and across not durable. They are much used for infants' clothing. every point of the hexagons, bring a line of black twist, Patent Knitting. — The old-fashioned name for the centre of the star. Oveecast working the ends into Brioche Knitting. See Knitting. the hexagons together to make the pattern, laying them Patent Silk SealsMn.—This is a very beautiful on it as a guide, and place one hexagon, made of white textile, in every respect as perfect an imitation of sealskin muslin, as the centre patch. Lay the star, when finished, as could be manufactured. The gloss is very fine, and the upon a plain velvet or satin background. The work, softness equally gi-eat, and it has the advantage of light- when used for a footstool cover, is made with one large ness, by comparison with the real skin. The pile is raised nearly covering the surface; for small tablecloths, star, on a double wai'p of cotton. The material measures 52 cushions, &c., with a number of more minute devices inches in width; its wear is said to be very satisfactory, fastened to a plain ground. and the cost is estimated at about one-fourth of that of Twist.—This pattern is formed of eight-sided cubes the real skins. Silk Sealskin has been patented by the and squares, which are separated from each other by long inventors, and is produced at Newtown, North Wales. narrow patches, cut so as to appear to twist, or interlace Patterns.—These are required for every description of each other, and twine round the squares and cubes. To Ornamental Needlework, and are as diversified as the work as shown in Fig. 655 : Cut a number of squares articles they help to form. measuring 1^ inches each way, and eight-sided cubes For Berlin Work, and in all Work with Wools upon measuring Ij inches at top, bottom, and side lines, but Open Canvas : Trace the pattern upon point or ruled only three-quarters of an inch across the lines that form paper, with squares to represent each stitch, and colour the four corners. Make these cubes and squares of pieces the tracing as each stitch should be coloured when of dark-coloured satin and brocade. Cut out, in light worked. Place this pattern upon the table, and work silk or satin, the long, narrow stripes, make these half an from it, counting the stitches upon it, and working the inch in width, 2 inches in length on one side, and 2f same number on the canvas. inches in length on the other. Cut them so that one side For Church Enibroidery : Draw out the pattern as a of the width is quite straight, and the other pointed. Take whole upon a large piece of paper, in proper scale, and one of the squares, stitch to it, on the left, a long, narrow colour this ; then, upon separate pieces of paper, make piece, turn its short, or 2-inch, length to the square, make sections of the pattern of those pieces that are worked D D D 386 THE DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK. in frames by themselves, and afterwards joined together. brushed away with a soft velvet brush, and must, there- Trace these sections on linen stretched in Embi'oidery fore, only contain sufficient gum to allow of their adhering Frames, and coloui' them from the large pattern. temporarily. The mixture should be tried on a waste For Creivel Worl-, Safin Emhroid.cnj, Tapestry, and piece of stuff before using, and care taken that it is not very liquid. all Emhroideries xipon TItich Materials : Make a small Pillow coloured design, trace the outline of this, in its full size, For Lace Mahing : Prick the outlines of upon oiled tracing linen, transfer this outline to the the sj)rig, or piece of lace, upon thin parchment or Toile material -with the aid of blue or white cai-bonised linen, Cire, so that each pricking shall represent one of the holes and work out the colours from the small design. When required in the design, and into which a pin is stuck the materials are rough and dark, it is extremely difficult while the lace is in process of making, in order that for an amateur- to trace a design upon them, but the a stitch can be formed round the pin, and kept in position it. following plan is the best : Trace the pattern upon oiled by tracing linen (not paper), and place underneath it a cream- For Point or Needle Laces : Trace the design upon colom-ed piece of carbonised linen (not paper), lay the parchment as a whole; take copies of portions of it material and pattern \rpon a piece of glass, and trace the upon small pieces of parchment, outhne these with two design tlrrongh with a bone crochet hook. The traced prickings close together and a small si^ace between each lines will rub off some rough materials on contact, and for group, and work the j)ortions of lace with the needle these the best plan is, immediately after tracing, to Run upon these scraps; then join all together.