Touriosity Travelmag n Volume 1 n Issue 1 n June - July 2012 Renewable Energy Solution for Travel and Tourism industry

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Nandi Resources Generation Technology Private Limited For details please contact: +91-33-32613664; +91-9088303659 Email : [email protected] Website: www.nrgindia.com TM this flight too got cancelled due to bad weather. Flights into the Northern Areas of Pakistan have to fly on sight past mighty Nanga Parbat – but when clouds gather

Peak up a Trail around this 8,125 meters (26,660ft) high giant of rock and ice, which happens very often, flights are cancelled. “No problem ” I hardly could hear it anymore “...tomorrow next flight!” It gives me great pleasure to welcome you to the first issue of Touriosity Travelmag. It is a travel magazine aimed at bringing to you stories from unbeaten tracks and at the same time informing After losing out two days from our tight expedition schedule, we finally got our complete equipment. With the readers about new holiday ideas suitable for all kinds of pockets. 48 hours lost we were wondering if the bus-ride would The first issue has been a labour of passion, dedication and love. have been the better choice. In this issue, we have tried to view mountain tourism from Now we could finally start our trip. The bumpy jeep various angles. While heat waves are sweeping across the ride on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) itself was an Spantik or Golden Peak of Karakoram mountain range country, we thought a Mountains special issue would bring adventure. This route of the old Silk Road is a crossroad to our readers a cool refreshing breeze and leave you truly of cultures since more than 10,000 years. And each surrounded by a fantastic mountain panorama of peaks invigorated. We have attempted to give you a variety of articles culture has left its marks behind like a guestbook of above 7,000m like Rakaposhi, Diran, Ultar and Spantik from a variety of writers across the globe. So, while there is a around 60,000 petroglyphs and inscriptions known so in the distance. story of conquest of a virgin peak of the Karakoram mountain far. From prehistoric hunting scenes and simple ranges amidst much challenge, there is also an interesting palmprints to Iranian, Scythians, Parthians, Kushan, Already on our ride up the Karakoram Highway into coverage of the dances of people from the mountains. We have Tibetan, Chinese and even Nestorian Christian the north, we witnessed how uncontrollable and hostile equally tried to list out five holiday destinations in the five influences, Hinduism and delicate Buddhist the Karakoram mountain ranges could be. Not only is there a persistent risk of landslide and rock-fall that regions of India and provided information on how to tour them can block the roads for days, but since 2010, a massive around in a cost effective way. landslide has created a giant lake by blocking the We have created some regular sections, like an artist’s impression of various destinations and narrow Hunza valley with its river around Attabad the adventures of a solo female backpacker around the world, the troubles she faced, the people thus cutting the only lifeline that existed here, KKH she met, the time she spent and all these that got immortalized in her memoirs. In the end, we leading all the way from Hunza to the Chinese border. also bring to our readers news from the travel and tourism industry to keep you updated about The natural dam has blocked Hunza River to a massive what is happening. lake of more than 20km in length and up to 100 meters Rockcarving (300ft) in depth, thus swallowing the different I would like to thank all our contributors for sharing their thoughts and travels with our readers. rockcarvings – every culture that passed settlements with their rare farming lands in this narrow My heartfelt gratitude also goes to all the people who believed in us, those that encouraged us through spread its marks along the trade gorge one after another. We found that a single track and those that extended their help in getting things done before the magazine could be published. routes through these valleys. was fighting its way through this giant landslide, past And above all, thanks to our first readers, for making a dream project real. We hope you enjoy

Nearly each of these valleys was an reading Touriosity Travelmag just as we enjoyed producing it. independent kingdom. Even today they We would like to hear from you as we experiment, develop and try to further improve our speak their own languages; sometimes forthcoming issues. Share your thoughts with us at [email protected] the languages differ within viewing Happy travelling! range from one side to the other of one and the same valley. One of the oldest and most impressive settlements is Hunza. Villages like Karimabad, Altit and Ganish welcome you from far away with their apricot, cherry and walnut trees – little Rupanjana De green dots of an oasis fed by fresh glacier streams in- between the arid rock deserts of the Karakoram, Himalaya and Hindukush mountain ranges, Our jeep through the dusty narrow path past the landslide area

8 TM

Phone: 033-32613664 Peak up a Trail Mobile: +919836511995 Beyond Limits Email: [email protected] 6 Conquering the Karakoram Website: www.touriositytravel.com

Sweden Jukkasjärvi and the Ice 16 Hotel, Swedish Lapland.

Editor unspoilt culture, where centuries old traditions are still – you need patience in Pakistan, sometimes there is Rupanjana De alive, where untouched nature with a fascinating strength in calmness. The departure time had already scenery and some of the highest mountains of the world passed when suddenly we got the good news that we Advisors can go onboard. Nothing better than this; we quickly Pratiti Moulik can be found, including nameless and unclimbed peaks registered our luggage and ran on the runway of the Tapas Sengupta Coonoor in wild and unexplored areas – one of the rare places Dr. Paritosh Nandi on this planet that still offers pure culture, pure nature international Airport of Islamabad and literally jumped 21 The hidden treasure of South India Swapan Roy and pure adventure. on the plane almost on the verge of taking off. Once inside, we realized that there were at least six more Graphic Designer Upon arrival in Islamabad, the ‘PIA check in desk’ seats empty. As to why the people at the check-in desk Raghu Nath Sharma welcomed us with the bad news that our domestic were refused entry is a secret I never got to know. Assistance flight into the mountains had been overbooked and Our overwhelming joy did not last for long though; on Saurav Ranjan Dutta we could not go onboard. But hope dies last, as they our arrival in the heat of Gilgit, the district capital of say; we asked to be put on the waiting list. That way Publisher & Printer Gilgit-Baltistan, we discovered that our luggage was Leh we were trying to avoid a 20-hour long bus-ride as a Rupanjana De The rooftop of the World 26 not as quick as we were; it did not come along on the #E, B/6, Bapujinagar warm-up for the further stress that awaited us in our same flight. “No problem, next flight tomorrow” the Kolkata – 700092 adventure. airport staff assured us. Printed at Still clinging onto hope of being able to board, we Well, we still saved a 20 hour long bus-ride through B. N. Process, waited; all of a sudden we heard a turmoil and shouting the mountains and so half a day’s waiting at the airport 3B, Krittibas Mukhrjee Road at the PIA desk (often called “Problems in Air” by the really was no big problem. But to our surprise the Kolkata – 700067 locals). Some 20 more people who had got enraged by following day’s flight had only half of our climbing the same bad news tried to get on the plane by force. Distributor equipment on board. “No problem, next flight at 12:00” K. K. Puri News Distributors Pvt. Ltd. But no amount of shouting, begging and crying could the airport staff said. And to make things complicated, 9, Decares Lane, Kolkata – 700069 An appeal change the situation. We tried to relax and take it easy Ph – 033-2210-1136 To ensure sustainable development of tourism, we request our readers Email - [email protected] to take care of the environment while travelling. Please throw the garbages, Cover Picture pouches, packages, plastic carry bags etc. only into garbage boxes and Photographer : not pollute the environment or make the tourist spots dirty. Malgorzata Skowronska LET’S BE RESPONSIBLE TOURISTS. Location : Wall of the Ice Arena in the Karakoram Pictures of Nanga Parbat: aerial view of Diamir Face, road sign about the mountain, Rakhiot Face from Fairy Meadows, Rupal face

7 Peak up a Trail

Gangtok 31 Home atop a hill

Kerala An artist’s impression 36 BEYONDChristof Nettekoven, Bonn, Germany LIMITS of Kerala Karakorum Gender Equality Expedition 2011 Matheran 46 India’s tiniest hill station Every expedition is like a spiritual journey. It tests our At the age of just 19, this young Shimshali girl was the physical and mental strength, and brings out hidden first woman from her country to climb a virgin peak treasures from within. Mountaineering has always of 6,400 meters, called Chashkin Sar, now named after been a passion for me. In the summer of 2011, mid June her as Samina Peak. With her mountaineering success, to be precise, along with a team of enthusiasts I got to she tries to be a role model for the youth and to pave Pachmarhi 56 undertake an expedition to a still unexplored and the way for women equality in all spheres of life in the The Queen of Satpura nameless peak of the Karakoram range in the border country. With a view to inspiring women all around Mountains between Pakistan and China. The focus of this the world to actively participate expedition was on a 20-year-old Pakistani female in all fields of society, she says, “It mountaineer, Samina Baig, who loves getting closer is my intention to motivate more to the virgin beauty of nature with every journey, women to participate as this will Meghalaya ascending mountains and reaching into heights where give a message of confidence to 58 Local festivals and dances no other Pakistani woman has ever been before – females everywhere that if a young thus breaking the rules of a country where not only woman can climb a mountain, she sports but all other fields of society are dominated can do anything". Samina and her by men. brother Mirza Ali of the Country’s Touriosity Quiz 51 Youth Outreach Program (a youth education, environmental awareness and gender equality- Mountain Sports promoting program for outdoor sports) organized her 52 third expedition to conquer an unclimbed and nameless Mountain Railway peak deep in the border area of the Karakoram between 60 Pakistan and China. Our team comprised of Malgosia Skowronska, from Poland, Jens Franke and me from Memoirs of a backpacker - Paris 62 Germany apart from the local Samina, Mirza and Arshad. Far beyond the last remote settlements of the Photo feature 70 Shimshal Valley, we followed our protagonists and their team on a three week expedition leading over News 72 passes of 5,000 meters, where isolation preserves an The complete team with all porters at basecamp and Samina

6 CONTENTS CONTRIBUTOR PROFILE

JOAQUIN GONZALEZ DORAO, 50, Madrid, Spain, a traveler since his teen ages, combines NIVEDITA CHAKRABORTY, has her roots in Assam but presently lives in Gangtok, Sikkim. in his illustrated Travel Journals his passion for travel and his skills as a watercolour artist. During her childhood she accompanied her parents to visit various places throughout India, He replaced his camera with a blank notebook and a box of watercolour. While exploring which instilled in her a love for the outdoors. She enjoys visiting historical sites, places known unknown lands, he fills its pages with landscapes, people, buildings and details. He has been for their natural beauty and also places that promise adventure. Befriending people from to five continents. He likes travelling light, in a very tight budget, trying to get as close as different cultures and learning about their lifestyles has been an inspiration to her in many possible to the everyday life of his destinations, and enjoying every minute of his relatively ways. Essentially a homemaker, she also enjoys reading, painting and coaching children in short travels. He has authored and illustrated many books including “Travel Watercolors” her spare time. (Greece, Australia, China, Croatia & Peru) published by Lonely Planet Publishers and “Ethiopia Travel Diary”. Joaquin has won many awards and held a number of exhibitions across the world.

ANIL PRADHAN, Shillong, India, is a retired police officer. Taking photographs has always CHRISTOF NETTEKOVEN, 35, Bonn, Germany, mountaineer and experienced traveller been his first love. For as long as he can remember, a camera has been his constant companion through the Asian continent; India, China, Tibet, Iran, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Burma, Laos, during his tours and travels, either on duty or on holidays. Posted in the scenic state of Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia as also North America, South America Meghalaya in the North-East, he has travelled throughout the country as well as abroad, and Northern Africa. He blames the time spent in Rocky Mountains at an early age as the slinging his camera along, wherever he went. He has held a solo exhibition of his work in root of his passion for mountains that eventually lead him to climb all over the world. From Shillong, aptly naming it, ‘The Mysterious and Mythological Places of Meghalaya’ as well as the Alps in Europe to Alborz range in Iran to the Karakorum, Himalayas and further to the showcased his works in such seminars as, ‘Role of Waters in Khasi Culture and Vision’ Andes in South America. His expedition clips have been telecast on Japanese FUJI TV and organised by the North-Eastern Hill University. He writes about his travels and offers valuable TV ASAHI. Clips from his «Gender Equality Karakorum Expedition 2011» (featured in this tips to first-time travellers, along with his photographs, in such foras as Virtualtourist.com. issue) are still in the making. And he’s off again! The next project is already waiting, leading With ample time at his disposal now, he plans travelling full-time, taking photographs as he to Afghanistan´s Pamir in search of the first ascents in July 2012. goes along.

GRETE HOWARD, Bristol, UK, has always had travel in her blood, and she says she has PRATITI MOULIK, 38, Kolkata, India, loves travelling and gathering interesting experiences. been lucky enough to be able to indulge herself to the tune of an average of seven trips abroad She is a Practising Company Secretary by profession and loves music and making collages. every year for the last 21 years. She has so far made 189 trips abroad to 132 countries on all Traveling gives her the freshness of freedom and life enriching moments. Now-a-days, she the seven continents. She travels with a backpack full of curiosity and makes a point of not travels with her 6 year old daughter to instill the spirit of travel in her, just as she was initiated judging other cultures by their actions, just because they are different to hers. She brings a by her parents in her childhood. pocket full of respect and value the diversity that is the world. She observes and absorbs and accepts that human beings are all different. She wonders at the traditions and way of life of other nations and is captivated by the beauty of little things. She appreciates the opportunity travel has afforded her - to gain an insight into other people's lives, to embrace the world with an open mind and tolerance. A photographer and traveler by passion, Abhinandan Bhaduri's dream is to travel all over the world. A self-confessed nature lover, his obsession with the mountains is the reason behind his frequent treks to Sandakphu, Amarnath, Goecha la or the Mayali Pass. Being a non- conformist of the notion of "planned traveling", Abhinandan's trips are often outcomes of his MAHUYA and MEGHNA PAUL, Bangalore, India, are sisters and travel enthusiasts and impulsive nature. Though this sometimes deprives him of the company of a fellow traveler, share more than just their love for food and books. Both technical writers by profession, in Abhinandan is not perturbed as he believes that if one travels with an entourage, one usually spare time, they love to watch movies, listen to music or experiment with food. They have misses the opportunity to befriend people from different cultures and to get acquainted with been traveling regularly to different parts of India and the world with a group of like-minded their way of life, traditions and customs. He is an avid reader and a self-proclaimed foodie! women and endeavour to take at least one trip a year. They also share their experiences When not on his trips, he enjoys catching up with fellow photo-enthusiasts. Currently he is regularly in magazines and online travel blogs. Mahuya’s wish list contains a visit to the Seven hosting a photo-exhibition in his hometown Calcutta. Wonders of the World and the places listed by the archaeological survey of India. She believes that every person should visit the Taj Mahal at least once in life time! Photo Contributors Malav Parekh, Mumbai, India ; Pallav Mitra, Zaragoza, Spain ; Supriya Paul, Shillong Anil Pradhan, Shillong, India ; Rakesh Kapadnis, Mumbai, India

4 5 CONTRIBUTOR PROFILE

JOAQUIN GONZALEZ DORAO, 50, Madrid, Spain, a traveler since his teen ages, combines NIVEDITA CHAKRABORTY, has her roots in Assam but presently lives in Gangtok, Sikkim. in his illustrated Travel Journals his passion for travel and his skills as a watercolour artist. During her childhood she accompanied her parents to visit various places throughout India, He replaced his camera with a blank notebook and a box of watercolour. While exploring which instilled in her a love for the outdoors. She enjoys visiting historical sites, places known unknown lands, he fills its pages with landscapes, people, buildings and details. He has been for their natural beauty and also places that promise adventure. Befriending people from to five continents. He likes travelling light, in a very tight budget, trying to get as close as different cultures and learning about their lifestyles has been an inspiration to her in many possible to the everyday life of his destinations, and enjoying every minute of his relatively ways. Essentially a homemaker, she also enjoys reading, painting and coaching children in short travels. He has authored and illustrated many books including “Travel Watercolors” her spare time. (Greece, Australia, China, Croatia & Peru) published by Lonely Planet Publishers and “Ethiopia Travel Diary”. Joaquin has won many awards and held a number of exhibitions across the world.

ANIL PRADHAN, Shillong, India, is a retired police officer. Taking photographs has always CHRISTOF NETTEKOVEN, 35, Bonn, Germany, mountaineer and experienced traveller been his first love. For as long as he can remember, a camera has been his constant companion through the Asian continent; India, China, Tibet, Iran, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Burma, Laos, during his tours and travels, either on duty or on holidays. Posted in the scenic state of Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia as also North America, South America Meghalaya in the North-East, he has travelled throughout the country as well as abroad, and Northern Africa. He blames the time spent in Rocky Mountains at an early age as the slinging his camera along, wherever he went. He has held a solo exhibition of his work in root of his passion for mountains that eventually lead him to climb all over the world. From Shillong, aptly naming it, ‘The Mysterious and Mythological Places of Meghalaya’ as well as the Alps in Europe to Alborz range in Iran to the Karakorum, Himalayas and further to the showcased his works in such seminars as, ‘Role of Waters in Khasi Culture and Vision’ Andes in South America. His expedition clips have been telecast on Japanese FUJI TV and organised by the North-Eastern Hill University. He writes about his travels and offers valuable TV ASAHI. Clips from his «Gender Equality Karakorum Expedition 2011» (featured in this tips to first-time travellers, along with his photographs, in such foras as Virtualtourist.com. issue) are still in the making. And he’s off again! The next project is already waiting, leading With ample time at his disposal now, he plans travelling full-time, taking photographs as he to Afghanistan´s Pamir in search of the first ascents in July 2012. goes along.

GRETE HOWARD, Bristol, UK, has always had travel in her blood, and she says she has PRATITI MOULIK, 38, Kolkata, India, loves travelling and gathering interesting experiences. been lucky enough to be able to indulge herself to the tune of an average of seven trips abroad She is a Practising Company Secretary by profession and loves music and making collages. every year for the last 21 years. She has so far made 189 trips abroad to 132 countries on all Traveling gives her the freshness of freedom and life enriching moments. Now-a-days, she the seven continents. She travels with a backpack full of curiosity and makes a point of not travels with her 6 year old daughter to instill the spirit of travel in her, just as she was initiated judging other cultures by their actions, just because they are different to hers. She brings a by her parents in her childhood. pocket full of respect and value the diversity that is the world. She observes and absorbs and accepts that human beings are all different. She wonders at the traditions and way of life of other nations and is captivated by the beauty of little things. She appreciates the opportunity travel has afforded her - to gain an insight into other people's lives, to embrace the world with an open mind and tolerance. A photographer and traveler by passion, Abhinandan Bhaduri's dream is to travel all over the world. A self-confessed nature lover, his obsession with the mountains is the reason behind his frequent treks to Sandakphu, Amarnath, Goecha la or the Mayali Pass. Being a non- conformist of the notion of "planned traveling", Abhinandan's trips are often outcomes of his MAHUYA and MEGHNA PAUL, Bangalore, India, are sisters and travel enthusiasts and impulsive nature. Though this sometimes deprives him of the company of a fellow traveler, share more than just their love for food and books. Both technical writers by profession, in Abhinandan is not perturbed as he believes that if one travels with an entourage, one usually spare time, they love to watch movies, listen to music or experiment with food. They have misses the opportunity to befriend people from different cultures and to get acquainted with been traveling regularly to different parts of India and the world with a group of like-minded their way of life, traditions and customs. He is an avid reader and a self-proclaimed foodie! women and endeavour to take at least one trip a year. They also share their experiences When not on his trips, he enjoys catching up with fellow photo-enthusiasts. Currently he is regularly in magazines and online travel blogs. Mahuya’s wish list contains a visit to the Seven hosting a photo-exhibition in his hometown Calcutta. Wonders of the World and the places listed by the archaeological survey of India. She believes that every person should visit the Taj Mahal at least once in life time! Photo Contributors Malav Parekh, Mumbai, India ; Pallav Mitra, Zaragoza, Spain ; Supriya Paul, Shillong Anil Pradhan, Shillong, India ; Rakesh Kapadnis, Mumbai, India

4 5 Peak up a Trail

Gangtok 31 Home atop a hill

Kerala An artist’s impression 36 BEYONDChristof Nettekoven, Bonn, Germany LIMITS of Kerala Karakorum Gender Equality Expedition 2011 Matheran 46 India’s tiniest hill station Every expedition is like a spiritual journey. It tests our At the age of just 19, this young Shimshali girl was the physical and mental strength, and brings out hidden first woman from her country to climb a virgin peak treasures from within. Mountaineering has always of 6,400 meters, called Chashkin Sar, now named after been a passion for me. In the summer of 2011, mid June her as Samina Peak. With her mountaineering success, to be precise, along with a team of enthusiasts I got to she tries to be a role model for the youth and to pave Pachmarhi 56 undertake an expedition to a still unexplored and the way for women equality in all spheres of life in the The Queen of Satpura nameless peak of the Karakoram range in the border country. With a view to inspiring women all around Mountains between Pakistan and China. The focus of this the world to actively participate expedition was on a 20-year-old Pakistani female in all fields of society, she says, “It mountaineer, Samina Baig, who loves getting closer is my intention to motivate more to the virgin beauty of nature with every journey, women to participate as this will Meghalaya ascending mountains and reaching into heights where give a message of confidence to 58 Local festivals and dances no other Pakistani woman has ever been before – females everywhere that if a young thus breaking the rules of a country where not only woman can climb a mountain, she sports but all other fields of society are dominated can do anything". Samina and her by men. brother Mirza Ali of the Country’s Touriosity Quiz 51 Youth Outreach Program (a youth education, environmental awareness and gender equality- Mountain Sports promoting program for outdoor sports) organized her 52 third expedition to conquer an unclimbed and nameless Mountain Railway peak deep in the border area of the Karakoram between 60 Pakistan and China. Our team comprised of Malgosia Skowronska, from Poland, Jens Franke and me from Memoirs of a backpacker - Paris 62 Germany apart from the local Samina, Mirza and Arshad. Far beyond the last remote settlements of the Photo feature 70 Shimshal Valley, we followed our protagonists and their team on a three week expedition leading over News 72 passes of 5,000 meters, where isolation preserves an The complete team with all porters at basecamp and Samina

6 CONTENTS TM

Phone: 033-32613664 Peak up a Trail Mobile: +919836511995 Beyond Limits Email: [email protected] 6 Conquering the Karakoram Website: www.touriositytravel.com

Sweden Jukkasjärvi and the Ice 16 Hotel, Swedish Lapland.

Editor unspoilt culture, where centuries old traditions are still – you need patience in Pakistan, sometimes there is Rupanjana De alive, where untouched nature with a fascinating strength in calmness. The departure time had already scenery and some of the highest mountains of the world passed when suddenly we got the good news that we Advisors can go onboard. Nothing better than this; we quickly Pratiti Moulik can be found, including nameless and unclimbed peaks registered our luggage and ran on the runway of the Tapas Sengupta Coonoor in wild and unexplored areas – one of the rare places Dr. Paritosh Nandi on this planet that still offers pure culture, pure nature international Airport of Islamabad and literally jumped 21 The hidden treasure of South India Swapan Roy and pure adventure. on the plane almost on the verge of taking off. Once inside, we realized that there were at least six more Graphic Designer Upon arrival in Islamabad, the ‘PIA check in desk’ seats empty. As to why the people at the check-in desk Raghu Nath Sharma welcomed us with the bad news that our domestic were refused entry is a secret I never got to know. Assistance flight into the mountains had been overbooked and Our overwhelming joy did not last for long though; on Saurav Ranjan Dutta we could not go onboard. But hope dies last, as they our arrival in the heat of Gilgit, the district capital of say; we asked to be put on the waiting list. That way Publisher & Printer Gilgit-Baltistan, we discovered that our luggage was Leh we were trying to avoid a 20-hour long bus-ride as a Rupanjana De The rooftop of the World 26 not as quick as we were; it did not come along on the #E, B/6, Bapujinagar warm-up for the further stress that awaited us in our same flight. “No problem, next flight tomorrow” the Kolkata – 700092 adventure. airport staff assured us. Printed at Still clinging onto hope of being able to board, we Well, we still saved a 20 hour long bus-ride through B. N. Process, waited; all of a sudden we heard a turmoil and shouting the mountains and so half a day’s waiting at the airport 3B, Krittibas Mukhrjee Road at the PIA desk (often called “Problems in Air” by the really was no big problem. But to our surprise the Kolkata – 700067 locals). Some 20 more people who had got enraged by following day’s flight had only half of our climbing the same bad news tried to get on the plane by force. Distributor equipment on board. “No problem, next flight at 12:00” K. K. Puri News Distributors Pvt. Ltd. But no amount of shouting, begging and crying could the airport staff said. And to make things complicated, 9, Decares Lane, Kolkata – 700069 An appeal change the situation. We tried to relax and take it easy Ph – 033-2210-1136 To ensure sustainable development of tourism, we request our readers Email - [email protected] to take care of the environment while travelling. Please throw the garbages, Cover Picture pouches, packages, plastic carry bags etc. only into garbage boxes and Photographer : not pollute the environment or make the tourist spots dirty. Malgorzata Skowronska LET’S BE RESPONSIBLE TOURISTS. Location : Wall of the Ice Arena in the Karakoram Pictures of Nanga Parbat: aerial view of Diamir Face, road sign about the mountain, Rakhiot Face from Fairy Meadows, Rupal face

7 TM this flight too got cancelled due to bad weather. Flights into the Northern Areas of Pakistan have to fly on sight past mighty Nanga Parbat – but when clouds gather

Peak up a Trail around this 8,125 meters (26,660ft) high giant of rock and ice, which happens very often, flights are cancelled. “No problem ” I hardly could hear it anymore “...tomorrow next flight!” It gives me great pleasure to welcome you to the first issue of Touriosity Travelmag. It is a travel magazine aimed at bringing to you stories from unbeaten tracks and at the same time informing After losing out two days from our tight expedition schedule, we finally got our complete equipment. With the readers about new holiday ideas suitable for all kinds of pockets. 48 hours lost we were wondering if the bus-ride would The first issue has been a labour of passion, dedication and love. have been the better choice. In this issue, we have tried to view mountain tourism from Now we could finally start our trip. The bumpy jeep various angles. While heat waves are sweeping across the ride on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) itself was an Spantik or Golden Peak of Karakoram mountain range country, we thought a Mountains special issue would bring adventure. This route of the old Silk Road is a crossroad to our readers a cool refreshing breeze and leave you truly of cultures since more than 10,000 years. And each surrounded by a fantastic mountain panorama of peaks invigorated. We have attempted to give you a variety of articles culture has left its marks behind like a guestbook of above 7,000m like Rakaposhi, Diran, Ultar and Spantik from a variety of writers across the globe. So, while there is a around 60,000 petroglyphs and inscriptions known so in the distance. story of conquest of a virgin peak of the Karakoram mountain far. From prehistoric hunting scenes and simple ranges amidst much challenge, there is also an interesting palmprints to Iranian, Scythians, Parthians, Kushan, Already on our ride up the Karakoram Highway into coverage of the dances of people from the mountains. We have Tibetan, Chinese and even Nestorian Christian the north, we witnessed how uncontrollable and hostile equally tried to list out five holiday destinations in the five influences, Hinduism and delicate Buddhist the Karakoram mountain ranges could be. Not only is there a persistent risk of landslide and rock-fall that regions of India and provided information on how to tour them can block the roads for days, but since 2010, a massive around in a cost effective way. landslide has created a giant lake by blocking the We have created some regular sections, like an artist’s impression of various destinations and narrow Hunza valley with its river around Attabad the adventures of a solo female backpacker around the world, the troubles she faced, the people thus cutting the only lifeline that existed here, KKH she met, the time she spent and all these that got immortalized in her memoirs. In the end, we leading all the way from Hunza to the Chinese border. also bring to our readers news from the travel and tourism industry to keep you updated about The natural dam has blocked Hunza River to a massive what is happening. lake of more than 20km in length and up to 100 meters Rockcarving (300ft) in depth, thus swallowing the different I would like to thank all our contributors for sharing their thoughts and travels with our readers. rockcarvings – every culture that passed settlements with their rare farming lands in this narrow My heartfelt gratitude also goes to all the people who believed in us, those that encouraged us through spread its marks along the trade gorge one after another. We found that a single track and those that extended their help in getting things done before the magazine could be published. routes through these valleys. was fighting its way through this giant landslide, past And above all, thanks to our first readers, for making a dream project real. We hope you enjoy

Nearly each of these valleys was an reading Touriosity Travelmag just as we enjoyed producing it. independent kingdom. Even today they We would like to hear from you as we experiment, develop and try to further improve our speak their own languages; sometimes forthcoming issues. Share your thoughts with us at [email protected] the languages differ within viewing Happy travelling! range from one side to the other of one and the same valley. One of the oldest and most impressive settlements is Hunza. Villages like Karimabad, Altit and Ganish welcome you from far away with their apricot, cherry and walnut trees – little Rupanjana De green dots of an oasis fed by fresh glacier streams in- between the arid rock deserts of the Karakoram, Himalaya and Hindukush mountain ranges, Our jeep through the dusty narrow path past the landslide area

8 Globetrotter's Diary Grete Howard, Bristol, United Kingdom Jukkasjärvi and the Ice Hotel - Swedish Lapland

Rakaposhi or the snow covered peak Karimabad with Ultar mountain Ganish village of Karakoram mountain range

boulders bigger than a house. The path was covered by more than 20cm of dust, penetrating into every corner of the jeep and our equipment, covering everything under a cloud of dust. All the people waiting at the docks including us almost looked like ghosts under the grey dusty cover.

For the further approach, our team had to go by boat that hosted up to 50 people and transported goods to The whole village of Jukkasjärvi and nearby Kiruna in Daylight is very limited in this part of the world during the isolated areas. We enjoyed our ride on this incredible Northern Sweden was geared around the snow and winter, with darkness until around 10:00 in the morning green-blue coloured lake embraced by steep rock cliffs ice, and activities associated with winter. As soon as and then a pale twilight until around 15:00 in the – a surrealistic panorama. we arrived, we were given thermal all-in-one suits to afternoon. They saw the first proper sunrise of the On our arrival after nearly two hours, we continued Mighty Tupodan mountain wear, including hats, gloves and boots. These were a season amidst much celebration when we were there, our journey by jeep, heading towards the mighty not a single mistake. But it exactly is this ragged, definite necessity – although certainly not a fashion in mid-January. The last time they'd seen the sun was Tupodan mountain, past Passu Village, where a jeep crumbly road that took more than 20 years to get statement – as the temperature dropped to – 23°C at two months earlier in November, a concept which is track turned off the KKH into a hidden narrow gorge constructed by the Shimshali people themselves for night and barely reached above – 10°C during the day. totally alien to us. – turning into a nerve wrecking adventurous shelf road breaking the isolation of their valley. It was finally In the old days, all transportations in this area were with a cliff falling several hundred meters straight completed in 2003. Before that, there was not a shorter made by husky sleighs, and this tradition is still carried down into Shimshal river below, allowing the driver way to reach their remote settlements than trekking on to this day. However, mostly for tourists and for nearly a week on foot .the competitions, snowmobiles are now more common same for transporting any goods than dogs in the wilderness. they themselves could not Dog sledging is a fun but cold activity, but at least with produce! four people to each sleigh, you can share body warmth. Shimshal Valley itself is situated Eight to ten dogs pull each sleigh (depending on how at a height of 3,200 meters, divided heavy the tourists are), and they are eager to get going, into three settlements along the yelping and tugging at the reins. The paths you travel valley. The origin of its inhabitants along are quite narrow, and surrounded by fresh, loose is believed to be in central Asia snow, and often the sleighs topple over when going from where they moved into round a bend or over a mound, leaving you to fight Pakistan through Wakhan

First sun for 2 months the lake boats transporting people 16 9 Peak up a Trail

Sun Terrace with names of all peaks in the distance

could react quickly and stop her fall before hitting the rocks.

High Camp came into sight; we were already happy to be back soon, when the worst crevasse fall was Clockwise from left: still to come. At the foot of the ice arena, as good Shimshali house; yaks; school children; valley; as back in the camp, the snow had surfaced over people; Shimshali yaks; another hidden crevasse and broke under my feet children; shepherd with the herds – the ice cave swallowed me from the ground, I tumbled upside down in a four meter free fall, until Corridor. The local language is Wakhi and their belief We reached a high pasture called Zadgarbin at an rest of the team possible. So each time I the rope came to a sudden stop, still six meters above is Imaili Islam. altitude of 4,000 meters – our first camp site. We enjoyed did two three moves, the team pulled too the dark ground of the icy crevasse. My teammates did the panorama over beautiful mountains like Shimshal heavy – I was out of the wall again, but We arrived at Shimshal late in the evening and finished a tremendous job holding the rope. Looking around I the climbing pictures Whitehorn, an esthetic pyramid of ice first climbed in with me having no grip in the wall, they failed to hold the road in the dark. Our local Shimshali protagonists realized that climbing out of this wide but heavily 2006. If there was a mountain like this in Europe, it me and my weight pulled me back down; no chance Mirza and Samina heartily received us with their family. overhanging crevasse would be difficult. The top would have attracted hundreds of climbers each season this way. Help came with a second rope. So could our The night was short and early the next morning we overhang was like soft mushroom ice, filigree and – but Shimshal is still the hidden Shangri-la for two porters who had actually come up to high camp met the complete team to sort out all our equipment, unstable. If this big chunk collapsed, I would get mountaineers. Hundreds of unknown, unclimbed and to welcome us after the summit victory. They were a dividing it on the team, porters and one donkey smashed. Water was dripping from all sides. With a nameless peaks still await their first visitors to the top. big help in this crevasse rescue. As a thank you note, – the trek into the unknown was now ready shock I realized that I spent all my slings building stand Those hidden valleys offer good summer pasture I announced to buy a sheep to appreciate their big help, to begin. at the summit pitch - now I needed them for an grounds for local cattle: herds of yaks, sheep and goats. as well as for our summit celebration. independent crevasse rescue – but I had not got them Life is hard in remote Shimshal Valley. Shimshal is famous for their huge yak herds. Once a back after rebuilding stand. So I tried climbing out of In Shimshal the family of Samina and Mirza welcomed Fertile ground for farming is scarce and year they hold a local festival with a yak race at Shimshal this ice cave...due to the complete team warmheartedly. We enjoyed their restricted only to the main valley, where Pass. I would love to see this stampede of big yak bulls the deepness of the great hospitality and got spoilt with the best food. The we started our trek. crevasse there was news of Samina´s first ascent had spread quickly in the Our first stage led through a narrow gorge no communication village. Everybody we met congratulated us. What a steep up into a side valley. 800 vertical between me and the great message Samina spread all over her country and meters does not sound much, but those much further! If a young girl can steep boulder slopes with their tremendous climb the last unclimbed rock-fall risk were a challenge, mentally mountains, she can do anything! and physically two steps up, one sliding In line with the motto of this down the loose rocks again, always on “Gender Equality Mission” of the lookout for rockfall. Was there a Samina, we decided to name this crumbling noise? Rockfall! Luckily, on mountain “Koh-e Brobar”, which the other side of the gorge. in Wakhi, means “Mt. Equality”. View from Zadgarbin pasture over Whitehorn and the Shimshal gorge Summit Pics 15 was undoubtedly the greatest mountain panorama I have ever seen. With a clear blue sky on a Peak up a Trail sunny day, all the mighty Ice Arena me in the ice arena High camp in ice arena peaks looked like a giant breakfast. Time passed quickly, way too quickly. The ocean of summits around us. plan was to start at 3:00 but now it was already 3:30 But apart from this great view, we also got to see that AM and it was 4:00 AM when we finally reached the the crux was still ahead of us. The last pitch to the foot of the wall. We ascended the steep Couloir, summit led over a sharp exposed ridge with serac traversing a ledge on half way up to the ridge, which overhanging on one side as well as above from the we thought should lead to the summit. summit. If the summit serac broke or we stepped too The sun hit the ridge very early – there was no wind far on the ridge serac, we would be taken down a and we sensed that this was going to be a warm day. thousand meter straight into the east face of the It was good for photography but dangerous for mountain. climbing, weakening all snow bridges, loosening rocks We built stand on one of the crumbling rock horns of and encouraging avalanches. We were late! the worst quality – but that was the only option to fix We continued on the ridge where steep slopes alternate any kind of a belay. Mirza took the challenge and went and after each we hoped to see the summit finally first over razor’s edge, cutting a breach through the but every time there was invariably the next steep slope serac leading to the summit. We made it! The whole with their brave jockeys one day! That night was glacier lakes into the next valley. In the far distance we waiting for us. My fear turned into reality; the strong team followed to the summit on a fixed rope. It was dominated by heavy storm and snowfall – but the could see our chosen one: an unowned nameless peak, sun had weakened the firn already on our ascent. We 11:00 o´clock. We recorded an altitude of 6,008m. weather changed for better in the morning, melting all waiting for us to claim the summit of ice and snow. were breaking knee deep, occasionally up to the waist snow quickly. We followed the valley through Samina, Malgosia, Mirza, Arshad, Jens and me, we all Our local team members celebrated this successful grasslands turning into arid rock-fields, crossing shared this moment...a short break to enjoy the stage at the top of the pass, sharing some food for moraines and little glacier streams several times until 360 degree view over all the peaks of mighty snack. Karim started singing local songs where we reached a yak herder’s hut at a pasture called Karakorum as far as the horizone goes! All these everybody joined in. giants of rock and ice like Ultar, Shispar, Spordin (4,250 meters) – where edible wild pie plant Dagasthir we believed to see even K2, the second and rhubarb had grown all over. highest mountain peak after the Everest, with our Our second camp site was situated close to the foot of own eyes from here! It was like a dream, just Spordin pass (4,650m) and Boesam pass (5,090m) was wonderful! our main target for the following day. A constant climb of a moderate steepness led us to the top of Boesam Ridge with the proposed into the snow. These conditions slowed us down to a But we had to hurry; standing on the summit was route, Proposed route only half the way. The high temperature would not pass, opening an incredible view over two Spordin Camp and from highcamp in red large extent; we lost a lot of time and energy on the Inside the Camp line strenuous climb. allow waiting any longer for the descent – it still was a long way home. The snow conditions got more and Behind a steep slope, Mirza broke suspiciously deep more problematic, the sustainability of the snow bridges into the snow thinking of just deep snow I avoided over the hidden crevasses got weaker and weaker and For lunchtime, we reached a pasture which locals call this spot, only to break to my waist into a crevasse. the last day´s avalanche was still fresh on our minds. Ptschor Washq, at the foot of our target peak, at the Lucky me! It was just a narrow one and I could free Our worries took the shape of reality when Mirza cross point of two side valleys at 4,580 meters. We all myself quickly. Shortly after, the same happened to stepped into a crevasse shortly after the sun terrace. agreed that this altitude was still too high for sleeping Samina. Since we were roped in, we could pull her out The roped party could hold him well and Mirza finally but we took this location with its two glacier streams without problems. freed himself. Further down, back in the wall of the ice as a perfect spot for our base camp. Finally we reached the big high plateau. We called it arena, Samina slipped and slided past us towards the For a further investigation of the best line to reach the the “Sun Terrace” due to its football field-like size. It ledge where Malgosia, closest to Samina in the rope,

14 11 Peak up a Trail

View down to Boesam purification ceremony with the whole team gathering Back in the base camp we tried to relax as much as Pass from the ridge around him for prayer, followed by traditional slaughter. possible, enjoying base camp life and the surrounding during our climb of the mountain nature with its pretty but rare high altitude flowers Our porters deserved the biggest share, and they like Edelweiss called Mimun Sprech in Wakhi. celebrated this feast extensively till late at night with singing. Everybody really enjoyed this variation in Feeling well acclimatized and strong enough for a camp food. summit attempt, we decided to build up high camp on Clockwise from left: the following day. We flattened the ground for our view from Boesam pass (BP) On the following day we continued our exploration high camp site and put up our tents under the burning to our target; on the way upstream into the side valley. After a difficult ascent from Boesam Pass; towards sun. What was very nice for photography could pose our climbing target; view over the loose rocky moraines along the glacier up to threats for climbing. The warm weather could increase backwards from BP 5,200 meters we reached a wonderful closure of the the risk of avalanches. summit, and also to find a lower camp site for better Wandering through the sheep and goat herd on the acclimatization, we followed the valley downwards. lookout for further varieties of our future basecamp Pretty late in the day after so many hours of strong On our way we got to see the hostile north face of an food, we soon came to an agreement with the shepherds sunshine on the snow slopes, Mirza and Arshad unapproachable icefall denying all access to the summit for a little goat. spontaneously decided to do some further from this side. acclimatization climbing. They worked their way up For the following days we planned to explore the upper Goats, through the soft snow when suddenly an avalanche The day came to an end on the lower grounds of this side valley with its major glacier coming from “our” Shepherds, broke loose just two hundred meters to their right, valley at 4,150 meters named Mandliqshaq by the locals. mountain for better alternatives. From Boesam pass Moledar cheese roaring down into the valley with its uncontrollable Shimshali shepherds invited us to a delicious local force of nature, smashing everything that crossed its speciality in their campsite. Moledar, fresh goat cheese way. That was a close call for Mirza and Arshad, who blended with fresh baked local bread, as well as butter then withdrew quickly from the and oil, loads of oil. This certainly was the best way to valley, the ice arena, embraced walls of the ice arena. finish a strenuous trekking day; I just could not keep by steep ice-walls on three my hands out of those pots of Moledar. At 2:00 o`clock the alarm rang. We sides. Here we finally identified got up and prepared tea and the best ascent route, over the 200 meter ice-wall onto the ridge that finally would lead to the summit. While we fell into Euphoria about Crossing Streams a possible climbing route giving us all confidence for we believed to see a more inviting ascent route to the Food at Mess a possible summit victory, the mountain frustated this Tent In summit ridge on the other day. So we moved up the quickly by sending us rockfall as a warning. Basecamp, valley back to our preferred location for basecamp with Base Camp Temperatures were pretty warm, increasing the chances its two glacier streams – along with us was our new of rock-fall and avalanche. team member, the goat. He somehow got to know our plan and tried a last escape, ripping his cord and off We stacked part of our climbing equipment for the into freedom but even his broad will to survive didn’t future high camp and started to descend. We repeated last for long. We brought him back. Karim started a this on the following day for further acclimatization. Rest & singing on Boesam Pass

12 13 Peak up a Trail

View down to Boesam purification ceremony with the whole team gathering Back in the base camp we tried to relax as much as Pass from the ridge around him for prayer, followed by traditional slaughter. possible, enjoying base camp life and the surrounding during our climb of the mountain nature with its pretty but rare high altitude flowers Our porters deserved the biggest share, and they like Edelweiss called Mimun Sprech in Wakhi. celebrated this feast extensively till late at night with singing. Everybody really enjoyed this variation in Feeling well acclimatized and strong enough for a camp food. summit attempt, we decided to build up high camp on Clockwise from left: the following day. We flattened the ground for our view from Boesam pass (BP) On the following day we continued our exploration high camp site and put up our tents under the burning to our target; on the way upstream into the side valley. After a difficult ascent from Boesam Pass; towards sun. What was very nice for photography could pose our climbing target; view over the loose rocky moraines along the glacier up to threats for climbing. The warm weather could increase backwards from BP 5,200 meters we reached a wonderful closure of the the risk of avalanches. summit, and also to find a lower camp site for better Wandering through the sheep and goat herd on the acclimatization, we followed the valley downwards. lookout for further varieties of our future basecamp Pretty late in the day after so many hours of strong On our way we got to see the hostile north face of an food, we soon came to an agreement with the shepherds sunshine on the snow slopes, Mirza and Arshad unapproachable icefall denying all access to the summit for a little goat. spontaneously decided to do some further from this side. acclimatization climbing. They worked their way up For the following days we planned to explore the upper Goats, through the soft snow when suddenly an avalanche The day came to an end on the lower grounds of this side valley with its major glacier coming from “our” Shepherds, broke loose just two hundred meters to their right, valley at 4,150 meters named Mandliqshaq by the locals. mountain for better alternatives. From Boesam pass Moledar cheese roaring down into the valley with its uncontrollable Shimshali shepherds invited us to a delicious local force of nature, smashing everything that crossed its speciality in their campsite. Moledar, fresh goat cheese way. That was a close call for Mirza and Arshad, who blended with fresh baked local bread, as well as butter then withdrew quickly from the and oil, loads of oil. This certainly was the best way to valley, the ice arena, embraced walls of the ice arena. finish a strenuous trekking day; I just could not keep by steep ice-walls on three my hands out of those pots of Moledar. At 2:00 o`clock the alarm rang. We sides. Here we finally identified got up and prepared tea and the best ascent route, over the 200 meter ice-wall onto the ridge that finally would lead to the summit. While we fell into Euphoria about Crossing Streams a possible climbing route giving us all confidence for we believed to see a more inviting ascent route to the Food at Mess a possible summit victory, the mountain frustated this Tent In summit ridge on the other day. So we moved up the quickly by sending us rockfall as a warning. Basecamp, valley back to our preferred location for basecamp with Base Camp Temperatures were pretty warm, increasing the chances its two glacier streams – along with us was our new of rock-fall and avalanche. team member, the goat. He somehow got to know our plan and tried a last escape, ripping his cord and off We stacked part of our climbing equipment for the into freedom but even his broad will to survive didn’t future high camp and started to descend. We repeated last for long. We brought him back. Karim started a this on the following day for further acclimatization. Rest & singing on Boesam Pass

12 13 was undoubtedly the greatest mountain panorama I have ever seen. With a clear blue sky on a Peak up a Trail sunny day, all the mighty Ice Arena me in the ice arena High camp in ice arena peaks looked like a giant breakfast. Time passed quickly, way too quickly. The ocean of summits around us. plan was to start at 3:00 but now it was already 3:30 But apart from this great view, we also got to see that AM and it was 4:00 AM when we finally reached the the crux was still ahead of us. The last pitch to the foot of the wall. We ascended the steep Couloir, summit led over a sharp exposed ridge with serac traversing a ledge on half way up to the ridge, which overhanging on one side as well as above from the we thought should lead to the summit. summit. If the summit serac broke or we stepped too The sun hit the ridge very early – there was no wind far on the ridge serac, we would be taken down a and we sensed that this was going to be a warm day. thousand meter straight into the east face of the It was good for photography but dangerous for mountain. climbing, weakening all snow bridges, loosening rocks We built stand on one of the crumbling rock horns of and encouraging avalanches. We were late! the worst quality – but that was the only option to fix We continued on the ridge where steep slopes alternate any kind of a belay. Mirza took the challenge and went and after each we hoped to see the summit finally first over razor’s edge, cutting a breach through the but every time there was invariably the next steep slope serac leading to the summit. We made it! The whole with their brave jockeys one day! That night was glacier lakes into the next valley. In the far distance we waiting for us. My fear turned into reality; the strong team followed to the summit on a fixed rope. It was dominated by heavy storm and snowfall – but the could see our chosen one: an unowned nameless peak, sun had weakened the firn already on our ascent. We 11:00 o´clock. We recorded an altitude of 6,008m. weather changed for better in the morning, melting all waiting for us to claim the summit of ice and snow. were breaking knee deep, occasionally up to the waist snow quickly. We followed the valley through Samina, Malgosia, Mirza, Arshad, Jens and me, we all Our local team members celebrated this successful grasslands turning into arid rock-fields, crossing shared this moment...a short break to enjoy the stage at the top of the pass, sharing some food for moraines and little glacier streams several times until 360 degree view over all the peaks of mighty snack. Karim started singing local songs where we reached a yak herder’s hut at a pasture called Karakorum as far as the horizone goes! All these everybody joined in. giants of rock and ice like Ultar, Shispar, Spordin (4,250 meters) – where edible wild pie plant Dagasthir we believed to see even K2, the second and rhubarb had grown all over. highest mountain peak after the Everest, with our Our second camp site was situated close to the foot of own eyes from here! It was like a dream, just Spordin pass (4,650m) and Boesam pass (5,090m) was wonderful! our main target for the following day. A constant climb of a moderate steepness led us to the top of Boesam Ridge with the proposed into the snow. These conditions slowed us down to a But we had to hurry; standing on the summit was route, Proposed route only half the way. The high temperature would not pass, opening an incredible view over two Spordin Camp and from highcamp in red large extent; we lost a lot of time and energy on the Inside the Camp line strenuous climb. allow waiting any longer for the descent – it still was a long way home. The snow conditions got more and Behind a steep slope, Mirza broke suspiciously deep more problematic, the sustainability of the snow bridges into the snow thinking of just deep snow I avoided over the hidden crevasses got weaker and weaker and For lunchtime, we reached a pasture which locals call this spot, only to break to my waist into a crevasse. the last day´s avalanche was still fresh on our minds. Ptschor Washq, at the foot of our target peak, at the Lucky me! It was just a narrow one and I could free Our worries took the shape of reality when Mirza cross point of two side valleys at 4,580 meters. We all myself quickly. Shortly after, the same happened to stepped into a crevasse shortly after the sun terrace. agreed that this altitude was still too high for sleeping Samina. Since we were roped in, we could pull her out The roped party could hold him well and Mirza finally but we took this location with its two glacier streams without problems. freed himself. Further down, back in the wall of the ice as a perfect spot for our base camp. Finally we reached the big high plateau. We called it arena, Samina slipped and slided past us towards the For a further investigation of the best line to reach the the “Sun Terrace” due to its football field-like size. It ledge where Malgosia, closest to Samina in the rope,

14 11 Peak up a Trail

Sun Terrace with names of all peaks in the distance

could react quickly and stop her fall before hitting the rocks.

High Camp came into sight; we were already happy to be back soon, when the worst crevasse fall was Clockwise from left: still to come. At the foot of the ice arena, as good Shimshali house; yaks; school children; valley; as back in the camp, the snow had surfaced over people; Shimshali yaks; another hidden crevasse and broke under my feet children; shepherd with the herds – the ice cave swallowed me from the ground, I tumbled upside down in a four meter free fall, until Corridor. The local language is Wakhi and their belief We reached a high pasture called Zadgarbin at an rest of the team possible. So each time I the rope came to a sudden stop, still six meters above is Imaili Islam. altitude of 4,000 meters – our first camp site. We enjoyed did two three moves, the team pulled too the dark ground of the icy crevasse. My teammates did the panorama over beautiful mountains like Shimshal heavy – I was out of the wall again, but We arrived at Shimshal late in the evening and finished a tremendous job holding the rope. Looking around I the climbing pictures Whitehorn, an esthetic pyramid of ice first climbed in with me having no grip in the wall, they failed to hold the road in the dark. Our local Shimshali protagonists realized that climbing out of this wide but heavily 2006. If there was a mountain like this in Europe, it me and my weight pulled me back down; no chance Mirza and Samina heartily received us with their family. overhanging crevasse would be difficult. The top would have attracted hundreds of climbers each season this way. Help came with a second rope. So could our The night was short and early the next morning we overhang was like soft mushroom ice, filigree and – but Shimshal is still the hidden Shangri-la for two porters who had actually come up to high camp met the complete team to sort out all our equipment, unstable. If this big chunk collapsed, I would get mountaineers. Hundreds of unknown, unclimbed and to welcome us after the summit victory. They were a dividing it on the team, porters and one donkey smashed. Water was dripping from all sides. With a nameless peaks still await their first visitors to the top. big help in this crevasse rescue. As a thank you note, – the trek into the unknown was now ready shock I realized that I spent all my slings building stand Those hidden valleys offer good summer pasture I announced to buy a sheep to appreciate their big help, to begin. at the summit pitch - now I needed them for an grounds for local cattle: herds of yaks, sheep and goats. as well as for our summit celebration. independent crevasse rescue – but I had not got them Life is hard in remote Shimshal Valley. Shimshal is famous for their huge yak herds. Once a back after rebuilding stand. So I tried climbing out of In Shimshal the family of Samina and Mirza welcomed Fertile ground for farming is scarce and year they hold a local festival with a yak race at Shimshal this ice cave...due to the complete team warmheartedly. We enjoyed their restricted only to the main valley, where Pass. I would love to see this stampede of big yak bulls the deepness of the great hospitality and got spoilt with the best food. The we started our trek. crevasse there was news of Samina´s first ascent had spread quickly in the Our first stage led through a narrow gorge no communication village. Everybody we met congratulated us. What a steep up into a side valley. 800 vertical between me and the great message Samina spread all over her country and meters does not sound much, but those much further! If a young girl can steep boulder slopes with their tremendous climb the last unclimbed rock-fall risk were a challenge, mentally mountains, she can do anything! and physically two steps up, one sliding In line with the motto of this down the loose rocks again, always on “Gender Equality Mission” of the lookout for rockfall. Was there a Samina, we decided to name this crumbling noise? Rockfall! Luckily, on mountain “Koh-e Brobar”, which the other side of the gorge. in Wakhi, means “Mt. Equality”. View from Zadgarbin pasture over Whitehorn and the Shimshal gorge Summit Pics 15 Globetrotter's Diary Grete Howard, Bristol, United Kingdom Jukkasjärvi and the Ice Hotel - Swedish Lapland

Rakaposhi or the snow covered peak Karimabad with Ultar mountain Ganish village of Karakoram mountain range

boulders bigger than a house. The path was covered by more than 20cm of dust, penetrating into every corner of the jeep and our equipment, covering everything under a cloud of dust. All the people waiting at the docks including us almost looked like ghosts under the grey dusty cover.

For the further approach, our team had to go by boat that hosted up to 50 people and transported goods to The whole village of Jukkasjärvi and nearby Kiruna in Daylight is very limited in this part of the world during the isolated areas. We enjoyed our ride on this incredible Northern Sweden was geared around the snow and winter, with darkness until around 10:00 in the morning green-blue coloured lake embraced by steep rock cliffs ice, and activities associated with winter. As soon as and then a pale twilight until around 15:00 in the – a surrealistic panorama. we arrived, we were given thermal all-in-one suits to afternoon. They saw the first proper sunrise of the On our arrival after nearly two hours, we continued Mighty Tupodan mountain wear, including hats, gloves and boots. These were a season amidst much celebration when we were there, our journey by jeep, heading towards the mighty not a single mistake. But it exactly is this ragged, definite necessity – although certainly not a fashion in mid-January. The last time they'd seen the sun was Tupodan mountain, past Passu Village, where a jeep crumbly road that took more than 20 years to get statement – as the temperature dropped to – 23°C at two months earlier in November, a concept which is track turned off the KKH into a hidden narrow gorge constructed by the Shimshali people themselves for night and barely reached above – 10°C during the day. totally alien to us. – turning into a nerve wrecking adventurous shelf road breaking the isolation of their valley. It was finally In the old days, all transportations in this area were with a cliff falling several hundred meters straight completed in 2003. Before that, there was not a shorter made by husky sleighs, and this tradition is still carried down into Shimshal river below, allowing the driver way to reach their remote settlements than trekking on to this day. However, mostly for tourists and for nearly a week on foot .the competitions, snowmobiles are now more common same for transporting any goods than dogs in the wilderness. they themselves could not Dog sledging is a fun but cold activity, but at least with produce! four people to each sleigh, you can share body warmth. Shimshal Valley itself is situated Eight to ten dogs pull each sleigh (depending on how at a height of 3,200 meters, divided heavy the tourists are), and they are eager to get going, into three settlements along the yelping and tugging at the reins. The paths you travel valley. The origin of its inhabitants along are quite narrow, and surrounded by fresh, loose is believed to be in central Asia snow, and often the sleighs topple over when going from where they moved into round a bend or over a mound, leaving you to fight Pakistan through Wakhan

First sun for 2 months the lake boats transporting people 16 9 Pomological Station: It is one of the research units expeditions up the peaks of Nilgiris. A trek up the your way out of the thigh-deep snow. The dogs would only one speed: super fast! Trying to cling on to the situated in Coonoor. It is a research center of the State Lamb’s rock is quite popular. Many tourists also do carry on regardless of it until the handler can stop slippery sled as you hurtle around on icy track can be Agricultural Department for apples, lemons, plums, the trekking up to Droog Fort. them; so you may have quite some distance to walk somewhat tricky! Almost as tricky as trying to stop the Destination - South persimmon, peaches, pomegranates and apricot. It is (more like a stumble in the snow) to catch up with reindeer at the end of the track! Globetrotter's Diary Weather: Nilgiris are popular with tourists all round one of the three such institutes established in the Nilgiri them. But all very good fun! the year. Temperatures are more or less moderate all Later on that day, after the sun had set, we had the hills, the other two being at Burliar and Kallar. We had made a stop at a “lavvu”, a traditional Sami opportunity to try out cross country skiing which is tent. The Sami are indigenous people who live in the not as easy as it looks. Balancing on the thin skis takes far north of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia, and quite a bit of practice, and most people spent a large still have a fairly traditional lifestyle, many preferring proportion of their time falling over. Of course, getting the nomadic lavvu over wooden buildings, as they up again with skis on your feet is quite hard, as the herd their reindeer for weeks on end across the wild skis seem to have a mind of their own, trying to slide tundras in the frozen north. Their tents are quite basic off with you on them long before you are in a vertical inside, with reindeer skins creating the seating area position. around the edge, and a fire in the middle to keep them Another popular winter activity is snow-shoeing: warm. It's a tough life in this area, with temperatures imagine tying something akin to a tennis racket to the dropping to even -45°C or lower during the depth of bottom of your shoes, and walking across the winter. countryside in fluffy snow. To me it was more hard At one of their settlements, we were allowed to pet work than fun. But I can see the usefulness of the snow and feed the reindeer, before trying out the art of shoes in crossing open areas of fresh snow; rather than reindeer sledding. I say 'art', as reindeer seem to have sinking in the snow up to your knees, the weight is

Toy train station & Nilgiri mountain railway Pasteur Institute: This century year old research through the year. In summer, the temperature ranges institute is situated right opposite to the Sim’s Park in between 12°C - 25°C, while winters are not unbearable Coonoor. It is well known for its research work on and minimum temperatures do not go below 2°C - 3°C. diseases like rabies and polio. It has developed several However, summer time is too crowded and touristy vaccines for such diseases. To enter this institute, special here and for those who would like to avoid the crowd, permission from the authorities is required. winter is more recommendable.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway: The Nilgiri mountain train Best time to Visit: from Mettupalayam to Ooty passes through Coonoor. Any time during the year. Here it halts for about 20 minutes when the engine is changed. The steam locomotives on which it runs from Where to stay: Mettupalayam are replaced by diesel locomotives here. Coonoor has both budget and luxury accommodations From Coonoor to Ooty, a ride of 18 kilometers barely available. While there are big budget ones like the Taj costs Rupees six per person. The journey takes about and Neemrana group hotels and a few resorts, there two hours, with each minute filled with thrill and fun. are also a host of mid-range hotels like Vivek Tourist The train chugs along slowly amidst picturesque Home and the Velan Hotel with double bed room rates landscape around. It passes through woods, tunnels ranging between Rs. 1000 – Rs. 3000, depending upon and bridges and one can have a breathtaking view of the season. For those who would like to have a touch nearby villages and towns. It has completed 115 years of spice, Kurumba Village resort amidst fruits and spice of service and is a UNESCO World heritage site. plantations, few kilometers away from Coonoor is also Adventure sports: Coonoor is a trekkers’ and hikers’ a good option. Rates at this resort would be Rs. 7000 paradise. It is a popular base for many trekking – Rs. 11000 per night. Clockwise from left: Sledging dogs; At the Sami Lavvu; Sami man with his reindeer; Inside the Sami Lavvu

24 17 Destination - South

Left: Tea garden, Right: Outside a tea factory

It is a very popular spot for picnics and is normally the best exhibits are crowded with tourists. awarded. The local Jukkasjärvi at dusk populace looks forward to Tea gardens: Stay at Coonoor is not complete without spread across a larger area, and you can (more or less) this festival and it is equally a visit to one or more tea gardens and tea factories walk on top of the snow. popular with tourists. The here. Every winter a tea and tourism festival is held park is named after Mr. J.D. For our last activity in Kiruna, we opted for night-time here and it attracts lots of visitors. Sims who developed it back snowmobiling. The route was extremely pretty, taking Droog Fort: This fort built by King Tipu Sultan in the in 1874. While the park is us along specially prepared paths of compacted snow 16th century is in ruins today and barely the home to naturally growing through the forest with pine trees heavily laden with surrounding walls still remain. Located at a height of trees, plants, shrubs and fluffy white snow which were beautifully lit by the about 2000 meters, it calls for a long trek to reach there. creepers, there are also skiddoo lights. On the frozen lake, we stopped the But once the travelers take the pain, they are rewarded hundreds of unusual species Tea garden machines and got off to look at the sky, where faint with mesmerizing bird’s eye view of the Nilgiris. It is of trees and plants brought from all around the world. green lines could be seen – known as the northern very popular with bird watchers. lights. It was not as spectacular as some I've seen, but Wild flowers: Coonoor is known for the variety of it was certainly worth stopping for. By this time we Sim’s Park: It is a beautiful park-cum-botanical garden colourful wild flowers that are found here. While taking also welcomed being able to bend and stretch a little situated in a deep ravine in Coonoor. Walking down a ride across the town, if you are fortunate to have an – with the wind chill factor on the fast moving machines, the ravine discovering thousands of species of plants enthusiastic driver, he would probably show you a the temperature freezing to a chilly -51°C! It was so and flowers is a unique experience. While in Coonoor, number of such wild flowers growing here and tell cold that the tear drops in my eyes even froze as soon this is definitely a must-see. Spread across 12 hectares their names. They make the environs verdant and as I took my goggles off! of land, it is beautifully designed in a Japanese garden picturesque. style. Every year, a fruit and vegetable show is held in After a hearty dinner consisting of reindeer soup and Bird watching: Many enthusiasts come to Coonoor for May where local producers exhibit their produce and moose stew, served in a cosy wood cabin warmed by the sake of bird watching. It is a great place for viewing a log fire, we headed back to the village and went for a variety of birds like eagles, vultures, parakeets, a drink before bed time. skylarks, song birds, robins, pipits, larks, thrushes, cuckoos, babblers and cormorants. In the bar, everything was served over ice. In fact, the whole bar was made from ice, including the glasses Lady Canning's Seat: Situated about 9 kms from the that the drinks were served in. The cocktails were not Coonoor town centre on the way towards the Lamb’s cheap, but we figured we could not come here and Rock, it is yet another tourist attraction. Amidst the have a drink in the Ice Bar again, so we limited ourselves verdure of tea estates and the mystery of the woods, to two drinks each. Another reason for not indulging there is a small Bungalow named after Lady Canning, too heavily in the vodka, was the fact that alcohol thins wife of the first British viceroy to India. From here one the blood so you could end up feeling the cold much can have a panoramic view of tea estates, the Lamb's Rock and the Droog Fort. From top : Cross Country Skiing ; Snow Shoeing ; Snowmobiling ; Wild flowers Night Snowmobiling 23 The hotel building can only be described as a work of art; it normally gets many day visitors to admire the various themed rooms (each room is different, with Destination - South beautifully carved ice sculptures), its chapel (where Globetrotter's Diary weddings take place) and the famous ice bar. Not us though, we were actually going to be sleeping on one of these blocks of ice! Most people only stay for one night, spending the rest of their time in more traditional accommodation, and this was our plan too, with our last night in Lapland in the Ice Hotel.

It might not seem right to undress when the thermometer shows -20°C, but you are recommended

Northern Lights

more overnight.

The highlight of the trip, and the main reason for travelling to this snow-covered northern landscape, was the Ice Hotel. Scenic beauty of Coonoor Most hotels are built to last for several years, with Kotagiri, close to Coonoor and is very clearly visible maybe some refurbishment every now and then – but from the Dolphin’s nose. It is named after Lady not this one. Built entirely of ice, the Ice Hotel has to Catherine, the wife of Mr. Cockburn who is believed be rebuilt every year. Using specially cut blocks of ice to have introduced the coffee plantations in Kotagiri. from the frozen Torne River, and sculptors from all With a height of 250 ft. the Catherine falls is the second over the world, a new hotel is created every winter, highest waterfall of the Nilgiri hills after Kolakambai and then it melts again the following spring. falls which is 400 ft high. The Ice Hotel Katary falls: It is located 10 kms away from Coonoor and is the third largest falls in the Nilgiri hills with a height of around 180 feet.

Law's Falls: It is a relatively small waterfall located close to Coonoor down the hill towards Mettupalayam.

Dolphin nose including a spectacular view of the Catherine Falls right in the opposite. A ride to this point is very interesting in that one gets to see the beautiful tea plantations on both sides all the way up to it.

Lamb’s Rock: This is another viewpoint in Coonoor overlooking vast stretches of coffee and tea plantations along the hill side towards Coimbatore. It lies at about 8 kms from Coonoor centre on way to the Dolphin nose.

Catherine falls: It is a cascading waterfalls located in Catherine falls The Ice Hotel

22 19 Destination - South Globetrotter's Diary

Suite in the Coonoor ice hotel Sanghamitra to sleep in your thermal underwear only in the Ice anything on the bedside table, as you will probably the hidden treasure of the South hotel. With our clothes and other belongings safely wake up to find it has frozen into the ice! Despite the stored in the lockers in the heated building, we headed fluctuating outside weather, the temperature in the Coonoor is set amidst the picturesque landscape of the while the nearby Ooty is very crowded and always off to the room with our thermal sleeping bags. Reindeer room was a steady -5°C. Nilgiris, surrounded by sprawling tea gardens at an happening, Coonoor is rather tranquil and secluded hides cover the beds to protect you from the ice blocks Perhaps this was not the right decision! I would have altitude of 1850 meters, only 18 kilometers away from and serves as complete refreshment for mind and body. (even the beds are made from ice), and you do get loved to say that I had a wonderful night's sleep and the very touristy Ooty. It is the second largest hill station So while most tourists generally focus on Ooty and proper pillows, but you are recommended not to place woke up feeling happy and relaxed; but the real fact in the Nilgiris after Ooty. Blessed with pristine beauty make a day trip to Coonoor during a visit to the former, is that I hated every moment of it! of lush greenery and beautiful tea plantations, it serves Coonoor definitely deserves a stay. Although surprisingly enough I as an ideal getaway for rejuvenating the spirits. And Originally a home to the Toda tribes of Tamil Nadu, didn't actually feel cold, but the the British discovered this small and sleeping bag made me feel serene hill station in the early 19th century incredibly claustrophobic and after and soon vast stretches of land were several hours of having a panic brought under tea cultivation. Today it attack every time dropping off to is more popularly known for the Nilgiri sleep, I finally decided to get up and tea that is cultivated here. spend the rest of the night in the warm comfort of the (traditionally What to see: built) lounge! Dolphin’s Nose: It is a popular viewpoint All I can say is that I am glad I tried 10 kms away from Coonoor centre. The it, but with hindsight I feel I should tip of its peak is in the shape of a have just visited and photographed Dolphin’s nose and hence the name. From the ice hotel, perhaps not spent the here one can have a panoramic view of night in one of their rooms. the blue mountain range and its waterfalls Absolut Ice Bar Zig zag roads

20 21 Destination - South Globetrotter's Diary

Suite in the Coonoor ice hotel Sanghamitra to sleep in your thermal underwear only in the Ice anything on the bedside table, as you will probably the hidden treasure of the South hotel. With our clothes and other belongings safely wake up to find it has frozen into the ice! Despite the stored in the lockers in the heated building, we headed fluctuating outside weather, the temperature in the Coonoor is set amidst the picturesque landscape of the while the nearby Ooty is very crowded and always off to the room with our thermal sleeping bags. Reindeer room was a steady -5°C. Nilgiris, surrounded by sprawling tea gardens at an happening, Coonoor is rather tranquil and secluded hides cover the beds to protect you from the ice blocks Perhaps this was not the right decision! I would have altitude of 1850 meters, only 18 kilometers away from and serves as complete refreshment for mind and body. (even the beds are made from ice), and you do get loved to say that I had a wonderful night's sleep and the very touristy Ooty. It is the second largest hill station So while most tourists generally focus on Ooty and proper pillows, but you are recommended not to place woke up feeling happy and relaxed; but the real fact in the Nilgiris after Ooty. Blessed with pristine beauty make a day trip to Coonoor during a visit to the former, is that I hated every moment of it! of lush greenery and beautiful tea plantations, it serves Coonoor definitely deserves a stay. Although surprisingly enough I as an ideal getaway for rejuvenating the spirits. And Originally a home to the Toda tribes of Tamil Nadu, didn't actually feel cold, but the the British discovered this small and sleeping bag made me feel serene hill station in the early 19th century incredibly claustrophobic and after and soon vast stretches of land were several hours of having a panic brought under tea cultivation. Today it attack every time dropping off to is more popularly known for the Nilgiri sleep, I finally decided to get up and tea that is cultivated here. spend the rest of the night in the warm comfort of the (traditionally What to see: built) lounge! Dolphin’s Nose: It is a popular viewpoint All I can say is that I am glad I tried 10 kms away from Coonoor centre. The it, but with hindsight I feel I should tip of its peak is in the shape of a have just visited and photographed Dolphin’s nose and hence the name. From the ice hotel, perhaps not spent the here one can have a panoramic view of night in one of their rooms. the blue mountain range and its waterfalls Absolut Ice Bar Zig zag roads

20 21 The hotel building can only be described as a work of art; it normally gets many day visitors to admire the various themed rooms (each room is different, with Destination - South beautifully carved ice sculptures), its chapel (where Globetrotter's Diary weddings take place) and the famous ice bar. Not us though, we were actually going to be sleeping on one of these blocks of ice! Most people only stay for one night, spending the rest of their time in more traditional accommodation, and this was our plan too, with our last night in Lapland in the Ice Hotel.

It might not seem right to undress when the thermometer shows -20°C, but you are recommended

Northern Lights

more overnight.

The highlight of the trip, and the main reason for travelling to this snow-covered northern landscape, was the Ice Hotel. Scenic beauty of Coonoor Most hotels are built to last for several years, with Kotagiri, close to Coonoor and is very clearly visible maybe some refurbishment every now and then – but from the Dolphin’s nose. It is named after Lady not this one. Built entirely of ice, the Ice Hotel has to Catherine, the wife of Mr. Cockburn who is believed be rebuilt every year. Using specially cut blocks of ice to have introduced the coffee plantations in Kotagiri. from the frozen Torne River, and sculptors from all With a height of 250 ft. the Catherine falls is the second over the world, a new hotel is created every winter, highest waterfall of the Nilgiri hills after Kolakambai and then it melts again the following spring. falls which is 400 ft high. The Ice Hotel Katary falls: It is located 10 kms away from Coonoor and is the third largest falls in the Nilgiri hills with a height of around 180 feet.

Law's Falls: It is a relatively small waterfall located close to Coonoor down the hill towards Mettupalayam.

Dolphin nose including a spectacular view of the Catherine Falls right in the opposite. A ride to this point is very interesting in that one gets to see the beautiful tea plantations on both sides all the way up to it.

Lamb’s Rock: This is another viewpoint in Coonoor overlooking vast stretches of coffee and tea plantations along the hill side towards Coimbatore. It lies at about 8 kms from Coonoor centre on way to the Dolphin nose.

Catherine falls: It is a cascading waterfalls located in Catherine falls The Ice Hotel

22 19 Destination - South

Left: Tea garden, Right: Outside a tea factory

It is a very popular spot for picnics and is normally the best exhibits are crowded with tourists. awarded. The local Jukkasjärvi at dusk populace looks forward to Tea gardens: Stay at Coonoor is not complete without spread across a larger area, and you can (more or less) this festival and it is equally a visit to one or more tea gardens and tea factories walk on top of the snow. popular with tourists. The here. Every winter a tea and tourism festival is held park is named after Mr. J.D. For our last activity in Kiruna, we opted for night-time here and it attracts lots of visitors. Sims who developed it back snowmobiling. The route was extremely pretty, taking Droog Fort: This fort built by King Tipu Sultan in the in 1874. While the park is us along specially prepared paths of compacted snow 16th century is in ruins today and barely the home to naturally growing through the forest with pine trees heavily laden with surrounding walls still remain. Located at a height of trees, plants, shrubs and fluffy white snow which were beautifully lit by the about 2000 meters, it calls for a long trek to reach there. creepers, there are also skiddoo lights. On the frozen lake, we stopped the But once the travelers take the pain, they are rewarded hundreds of unusual species Tea garden machines and got off to look at the sky, where faint with mesmerizing bird’s eye view of the Nilgiris. It is of trees and plants brought from all around the world. green lines could be seen – known as the northern very popular with bird watchers. lights. It was not as spectacular as some I've seen, but Wild flowers: Coonoor is known for the variety of it was certainly worth stopping for. By this time we Sim’s Park: It is a beautiful park-cum-botanical garden colourful wild flowers that are found here. While taking also welcomed being able to bend and stretch a little situated in a deep ravine in Coonoor. Walking down a ride across the town, if you are fortunate to have an – with the wind chill factor on the fast moving machines, the ravine discovering thousands of species of plants enthusiastic driver, he would probably show you a the temperature freezing to a chilly -51°C! It was so and flowers is a unique experience. While in Coonoor, number of such wild flowers growing here and tell cold that the tear drops in my eyes even froze as soon this is definitely a must-see. Spread across 12 hectares their names. They make the environs verdant and as I took my goggles off! of land, it is beautifully designed in a Japanese garden picturesque. style. Every year, a fruit and vegetable show is held in After a hearty dinner consisting of reindeer soup and Bird watching: Many enthusiasts come to Coonoor for May where local producers exhibit their produce and moose stew, served in a cosy wood cabin warmed by the sake of bird watching. It is a great place for viewing a log fire, we headed back to the village and went for a variety of birds like eagles, vultures, parakeets, a drink before bed time. skylarks, song birds, robins, pipits, larks, thrushes, cuckoos, babblers and cormorants. In the bar, everything was served over ice. In fact, the whole bar was made from ice, including the glasses Lady Canning's Seat: Situated about 9 kms from the that the drinks were served in. The cocktails were not Coonoor town centre on the way towards the Lamb’s cheap, but we figured we could not come here and Rock, it is yet another tourist attraction. Amidst the have a drink in the Ice Bar again, so we limited ourselves verdure of tea estates and the mystery of the woods, to two drinks each. Another reason for not indulging there is a small Bungalow named after Lady Canning, too heavily in the vodka, was the fact that alcohol thins wife of the first British viceroy to India. From here one the blood so you could end up feeling the cold much can have a panoramic view of tea estates, the Lamb's Rock and the Droog Fort. From top : Cross Country Skiing ; Snow Shoeing ; Snowmobiling ; Wild flowers Night Snowmobiling 23 Pomological Station: It is one of the research units expeditions up the peaks of Nilgiris. A trek up the your way out of the thigh-deep snow. The dogs would only one speed: super fast! Trying to cling on to the situated in Coonoor. It is a research center of the State Lamb’s rock is quite popular. Many tourists also do carry on regardless of it until the handler can stop slippery sled as you hurtle around on icy track can be Agricultural Department for apples, lemons, plums, the trekking up to Droog Fort. them; so you may have quite some distance to walk somewhat tricky! Almost as tricky as trying to stop the Destination - South persimmon, peaches, pomegranates and apricot. It is (more like a stumble in the snow) to catch up with reindeer at the end of the track! Globetrotter's Diary Weather: Nilgiris are popular with tourists all round one of the three such institutes established in the Nilgiri them. But all very good fun! the year. Temperatures are more or less moderate all Later on that day, after the sun had set, we had the hills, the other two being at Burliar and Kallar. We had made a stop at a “lavvu”, a traditional Sami opportunity to try out cross country skiing which is tent. The Sami are indigenous people who live in the not as easy as it looks. Balancing on the thin skis takes far north of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia, and quite a bit of practice, and most people spent a large still have a fairly traditional lifestyle, many preferring proportion of their time falling over. Of course, getting the nomadic lavvu over wooden buildings, as they up again with skis on your feet is quite hard, as the herd their reindeer for weeks on end across the wild skis seem to have a mind of their own, trying to slide tundras in the frozen north. Their tents are quite basic off with you on them long before you are in a vertical inside, with reindeer skins creating the seating area position. around the edge, and a fire in the middle to keep them Another popular winter activity is snow-shoeing: warm. It's a tough life in this area, with temperatures imagine tying something akin to a tennis racket to the dropping to even -45°C or lower during the depth of bottom of your shoes, and walking across the winter. countryside in fluffy snow. To me it was more hard At one of their settlements, we were allowed to pet work than fun. But I can see the usefulness of the snow and feed the reindeer, before trying out the art of shoes in crossing open areas of fresh snow; rather than reindeer sledding. I say 'art', as reindeer seem to have sinking in the snow up to your knees, the weight is

Toy train station & Nilgiri mountain railway Pasteur Institute: This century year old research through the year. In summer, the temperature ranges institute is situated right opposite to the Sim’s Park in between 12°C - 25°C, while winters are not unbearable Coonoor. It is well known for its research work on and minimum temperatures do not go below 2°C - 3°C. diseases like rabies and polio. It has developed several However, summer time is too crowded and touristy vaccines for such diseases. To enter this institute, special here and for those who would like to avoid the crowd, permission from the authorities is required. winter is more recommendable.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway: The Nilgiri mountain train Best time to Visit: from Mettupalayam to Ooty passes through Coonoor. Any time during the year. Here it halts for about 20 minutes when the engine is changed. The steam locomotives on which it runs from Where to stay: Mettupalayam are replaced by diesel locomotives here. Coonoor has both budget and luxury accommodations From Coonoor to Ooty, a ride of 18 kilometers barely available. While there are big budget ones like the Taj costs Rupees six per person. The journey takes about and Neemrana group hotels and a few resorts, there two hours, with each minute filled with thrill and fun. are also a host of mid-range hotels like Vivek Tourist The train chugs along slowly amidst picturesque Home and the Velan Hotel with double bed room rates landscape around. It passes through woods, tunnels ranging between Rs. 1000 – Rs. 3000, depending upon and bridges and one can have a breathtaking view of the season. For those who would like to have a touch nearby villages and towns. It has completed 115 years of spice, Kurumba Village resort amidst fruits and spice of service and is a UNESCO World heritage site. plantations, few kilometers away from Coonoor is also Adventure sports: Coonoor is a trekkers’ and hikers’ a good option. Rates at this resort would be Rs. 7000 paradise. It is a popular base for many trekking – Rs. 11000 per night. Clockwise from left: Sledging dogs; At the Sami Lavvu; Sami man with his reindeer; Inside the Sami Lavvu

24 17 Gangtok can take up 3-4 days. But most Where to eat: tourists just visit the more popular ones Most hotels here have restaurants that provide descent food. They serve which can be covered in 2 days with no a wide variety of north Indian, South Indian, Chinese and Moghlai dishes. Destination - East night stays involved, which also includes However, it is best to try out the South Indian dishes here. the Nathula Pass in the Indo-China border. But to visit all over Sikkim one needs at Getting there: least 8-10 days if not a fortnight. The By Train: Yumthang valley and Gurudongmar Lake, The nearest broad gauge railway station Mettupalayam is 46 kilometers in North Sikkim which takes up two days away. From here one can take the meter gauge train up to Ooty, covering and a night each are highly a distance of 28 kms. Midway, there is a stoppage at Coonoor. recommendable. There are home-stay By Road: Buses ply regularly from major towns and cities in Southern India like Coimbatore, Bangalore, Mysore, Erode, Calicut, Palghat, Kanyakumari, which grows passion fruit and the best way to Thanjavur, Tirupati, Madurai, Trichy, Salem, Cochin and Ooty. Ooty, take back a part of this beautiful place is to buy being situated at the junction of three south Indian states viz. Tamil packaged jams and juices of passion fruit which Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka, it is very well connected all major cities are sold all over Sikkim. The local food here across these states and Ooty to Coonoor is only 18 kms by road. mainly includes lots of fresh green vegetables, meat and poultry. Both vegetarian and non By Air: (R) Khecheopalri lake in vegetarian versions of the Momo are popular The nearest airport is at Coimbatore at a distance of 70 kms from Coonoor. the shape of a foot, believed here, along with Thukpa, a piping hot soup of to be made of God's tears ; Moving around: (L) Rhododendrons in full vegetables, noodles and choice of meat/poultry. bloom Then there is Churpi, a form of fermented soft Local buses are available. However auto rickshaws are more common facilities available, to experience the rural life of Sikkim cheese made from yak milk, which is cooked with lots mode of transport here. Hotels do also arrange for cars for site seeing. and know more about their lifestyle. The Khecheopalri of onions and garlic and eaten with rice. Charges are quite nominal. Lake via Yuksam, the ancient capital and Tashiding The temperature in Gangtok hardly goes over 21 What to shop for: Monastery in West Sikkim can take up another couple degrees in the summer months (May to August) and of days including a night stay at Yuksam which is also While in Coonoor, one would love to shop for some exotic fruits. In the may come down to 3-4 degrees during winter (mid the native village of the renowned Bollywood actor market one finds numerous fruit stalls with almost innumerable options October to February). Sikkim has an annual rainfall of Danny Denzongpa. to choose from. Some of the major fruits of the region are apples, Pears, 3,894 mm. The weather in Gangtok is therefore very For those who are interested in pleasant through out the year. peaches, plums, apricots, persimmons, lemons and pomegranates. Fruit adventure tourism Sikkim has on People here like to dress in style. products like Marmalade, Jam, Jelly, Squashes and Pickles also make offer various sports like Trekking, So monsoon sees an array of good shopping items here. Then there are spices, tea and various types Traversing and Paragliding. There beautiful umbrellas, windcheaters of oil which are available all across the town. Hand-made chocolates are are Orchid festivals held all round and boots and winters are a good also popular here. the year in Gangtok although March time to flaunt all the scarves, to May and October to November overcoats, boots and headgears are the best seasons. The in the wardrobe. Rhododendrons are in full bloom The perishable market in Gangtok from March to April, and the green is mostly dependent on supplies of the mountain slopes covered with from Siliguri and the organic red of the rhododendrons make for farmers of west and south Sikkim. an exotic sight. So during the monsoons, almost Sikkim is the only place in India every year, there is a scarcity of View of Gangtok from the rope way

32 Destination - North Destination - East Home Nivedita Chakraborty Atop a Hill

LEHMahuya Paul and Meghna Paul the rooftop of the World

After the movie The 3 Idiots was released, there was a We got to have a taste of the Ladakh beauty even before Gangtok, capital of Himalayan state of Sikkim stands about sheets of glass as streams of rainwater flow downwards. nationwide obsession with Leh, Ladakh in general and we touched its soils. The 55 minutes flight from Delhi 6000 ft above sea level. The beautiful city, my home for The clouds seem to hover around the heads like a hallo. the Pangong Lake in particular (the climax of the movie to Leh was the most enjoyable flight for us. For the first the last two years, is in the east of Sikkim with a When it is sunny, one cannot stop looking at the sky was shot there). But even all that hype could not prepare time our minds were off air pockets and turbulences population of a little over a lakh. Gangtok literally from time to time and marvel at its blueness. This city us fully for the experience that we were to embark on and rather involved in the lovely Zanskar Ranges below. meaning ‘hill top’, is surrounded by mountain ranges is a curtain raiser for all the exotic things Sikkim has for our visit to the rooftop of the world. We were The panoramic view of the glistening snow capped on all sides. The ideal time to visit this place is from to offer. traveling with a group of exciting and fun-loving mountains, the piles of clouds flying over them, and October to early December and then February to May. The Lepchas, Bhutias and the Nepalis account for most women. the sun peeking occasionally gave us an idea of what There are three things which one notices on entering of the population here. Nepali is the main medium of lay ahead. this exotic place, the blanket of deep green surrounding communication in Gangtok, with Hindi and English the city, the high rises Unlike in any other place, our stay in Leh started with spoken fluently by most. on either side of the lots of rest, drinking water and walking slowly for the People from all over the streets housing most purpose of acclimatization. Once adjusted to the world come and fall in of the population and altitude, in the late evening we ventured out and visited love with Sikkim’s the prayer flags the Shanti Stupa. The Stupa is a magnificent white natural beauty and its fluttering in the breeze domed structure, built to promote worldly peace and fun loving people and I from roof tops. commemorate 2,500 years of Buddhism. It is located am no exception. on the hilltop and gives a spectacular view of the whole When I first came to For someone coming to of Leh. Gangtok I was Gangtok for the first overwhelmed by the The next morning we visited the Thiksey monastery time, it is helpful to natural beauty of this to witness the morning prayers by the lamas. The know that visiting all the place. On a rainy day imposing 12-storey white building looked dilapidated places in and around the streets look like Zanskar ranges from flight Lingdum Monastery

26 31 It is said that not all that you feel in your heart can be Where to eat: described in words, and not all that you see through Tibetian Kitchen in the main bazaar for Tibetian food your eyes can be captured on camera. That sounds true and Leh View Restaurant in the main bazaar for Destination - North for our trip to Leh, Ladakh. For days after we came Kashmiri food and biryani are good places to try out. back, we could still visualize the beauty and that has now become an intrinsic part of our lives! Getting there: By Train: Leh is connected to Jammu, which is the What to see: nearest railway station about 750 kms away. Shanti Stupa, Thiksey Monastery, Hemis Monastery, Pangong lake, Khardung-La pass, Gurudwara Pathar By Road: Leh is well connected by road with Manali Sahib, the Hall of Fame, Temple of Guardians in Spituk (470 km), Jammu (750 km), Srinagar (720 km) and Delhi monastery, Leh Palace, Leh Fort, Shankar Gompa, (1000 km). There are regular state and private buses

From L to R : but had an air of peace and tranquility surrounding it. for that day was the Druk Krupa school of The 3 idiots Thiksey Monastery ; Khardungla The prayer hall was cold and the only sound that we fame which was yet another beautiful building. Shanti Stupa ; Pass could hear was the monks’ chanting and the occasional Maitreya Buddha Matho Monastery, Jama Masjid, Zanskar ranges, We retired early that night with the thought that we from these places. From Manali cars are also available. fluttering of the robes when the young lamas got up Zorawar Fort, Stanka monastery, Tsmo monastery had to leave for Pangong lake, the highlight of the trip, JKSRTC buses from Srinagar to Leh take about two to serve the butter tea. As amazing as monasteries the next day. We were a little apprehensive and excited Adventure sports: days and HRTC buses from Manali to Leh take about could be, there was only so much praying that one too. Apprehensive since the journey was scheduled to Bike-trekking to Khardung la Pass is an interesting 20 hours non-stop or two days with halt in between. could take; so we decided to skip the chanting inside take 6 hours through the Chang-la-pass at an altitude activity here. Some tour operators also provide river Car hire services are also available. and went out to see the 15-meter high statue of Maitreya of 17,370 ft and excited because we were keen on seeing rafting options. Buddha who is termed as the future Buddha. By Air: There are a host of Airline companies providing the place where the last scenes of the famous movie Weather: regular services from Leh to Delhi, Jammu and Srinagar After the prayers, we visited the Hemis monastery, the were shot. biggest and the wealthiest monastery in Leh. The Leh generally has a cold weather. Summers are cooler and back. Currently Air India, Jet Airways, Jet Konnect We started the ride to the Pangong Lake a little after museum in the Hemis monastery treasures many old and winter in very chilly. In peak summer, June and and Go Air flights are available. 9.00 am. The ride was smooth with the mountain ranges July, temperatures can go up to a maximum of 30 paintings, sacred thankas Moving around: Cars are available for hire for visiting for company until we degrees and in winter it can drop to –16 degrees in (painted images of the various places in and around Leh. encountered a snow enlightenment) and several December, January and February. blizzard. It was a test for Nearby attractions: other exquisite objects. On the Best time to Visit: our lungs. However, Nubra Valley, a very high altitude desert that connects way back we stopped near the The best time to visit is during the summer months of against all odds we Ladakh to the Karakoram mountain ranges is about Sindhu Ghat where the annual June to September. reached our destination Sindhu (Indus) darshan was 150 kilometers from Leh. Here one can enjoy a camel after 7 hours and the first Where to stay: going on. There, we spent some ride amidst beautiful landscape. view of the lake made time with the locals who were Hotel Spic n Span and Dragon Hotel at Old Road and us believe that the wait getting ready to start the the Lha-Ri-Sa Resort in Skara are some good stay was worth, the Photos by Anil Pradhan cultural festival. Our last stop options. apprehension was fair Hemis Prayer Wheel

30 27 Destination - North

Indus Zanskar confluence and the excitement was not unusual. The lake is 5 – 6 nature and that is when we realized why the team from Sangam, the muddy hue of the Zanskar showed up the striking confluence kilometers wide and over 130 kilometers long. About the movie had travelled all the way to shoot here. difference between the two rivers. two-thirds of the lake lay on the other side of the Indo- The dinner served there was simple and the hot soup On the way back we experimented with the Magnetic China border. tasted marvelous against the cold. We called it a day Point with our vehicles. We also visited the Gurudwara We had to camp that night, so we set out to explore just after the dinner because we wanted to get up early Pathar Sahib, the Hall of Fame and the Temple of the place and know how low the temperature could and catch the look of Pangong at daybreak. We were Guardians in Spituk monastery, revered by Hindus as drop since the cold wind was already cutting through not disappointed. The lake was even more beautiful Kali Mandir. us at 4.30 in the evening. We were told that it was 9 against the rising sun. We had our breakfast and headed The last place on our list was the Khardung la Pass, degrees then and the temperature was likely to go back to Leh with the sun shining bright. There was not the highest motorable pass in the world. Being at a down to as low as 3 degrees at night. But then we had a trace of snow from the day before. height of 18,390 ft, the drive up through the mountains not travelled all the way to be tucked in bed and be Back in the hotel, we had a refreshing lunch and started was quite a challenge as the air became sparse the cozy. With that in mind, we started to walk around for our visit to Sangam – the confluence of the Indus further we climbed. It became colder and colder as we and take in as much of the scenery as possible. Never and the Zanskar rivers. The view of the confluence was transitioned from the dry to the snowy mountains. We had we seen such blue water, such brown mountains breathtaking. The stark green of the Indus against the were amazed to see cyclists and bikers riding all the or such a bright rainbow. Never had we felt so close to way up. At the peak, we played with the snow and captured some beautiful pictures. On the way down as on the way up, we enjoyed the breathtaking view from Khardung la, the scenery all the way south over the Indus Valley to the seemingly endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range.

We spent the evening at the local market buying trinkets and local fruits. We were delighted to see the number of foreigners visiting the place.

With a heavy heart, we left Leh the next morning. However, it was a relief to be able to breathe normally after a week. Phangong Lake

28 Destination - North

Indus Zanskar confluence and the excitement was not unusual. The lake is 5 – 6 nature and that is when we realized why the team from Sangam, the muddy hue of the Zanskar showed up the striking confluence kilometers wide and over 130 kilometers long. About the movie had travelled all the way to shoot here. difference between the two rivers. two-thirds of the lake lay on the other side of the Indo- The dinner served there was simple and the hot soup On the way back we experimented with the Magnetic China border. tasted marvelous against the cold. We called it a day Point with our vehicles. We also visited the Gurudwara We had to camp that night, so we set out to explore just after the dinner because we wanted to get up early Pathar Sahib, the Hall of Fame and the Temple of the place and know how low the temperature could and catch the look of Pangong at daybreak. We were Guardians in Spituk monastery, revered by Hindus as drop since the cold wind was already cutting through not disappointed. The lake was even more beautiful Kali Mandir. us at 4.30 in the evening. We were told that it was 9 against the rising sun. We had our breakfast and headed The last place on our list was the Khardung la Pass, degrees then and the temperature was likely to go back to Leh with the sun shining bright. There was not the highest motorable pass in the world. Being at a down to as low as 3 degrees at night. But then we had a trace of snow from the day before. height of 18,390 ft, the drive up through the mountains not travelled all the way to be tucked in bed and be Back in the hotel, we had a refreshing lunch and started was quite a challenge as the air became sparse the cozy. With that in mind, we started to walk around for our visit to Sangam – the confluence of the Indus further we climbed. It became colder and colder as we and take in as much of the scenery as possible. Never and the Zanskar rivers. The view of the confluence was transitioned from the dry to the snowy mountains. We had we seen such blue water, such brown mountains breathtaking. The stark green of the Indus against the were amazed to see cyclists and bikers riding all the or such a bright rainbow. Never had we felt so close to way up. At the peak, we played with the snow and captured some beautiful pictures. On the way down as on the way up, we enjoyed the breathtaking view from Khardung la, the scenery all the way south over the Indus Valley to the seemingly endless peaks and ridges of the Zanskar range.

We spent the evening at the local market buying trinkets and local fruits. We were delighted to see the number of foreigners visiting the place.

With a heavy heart, we left Leh the next morning. However, it was a relief to be able to breathe normally after a week. Phangong Lake

28 It is said that not all that you feel in your heart can be Where to eat: described in words, and not all that you see through Tibetian Kitchen in the main bazaar for Tibetian food your eyes can be captured on camera. That sounds true and Leh View Restaurant in the main bazaar for Destination - North for our trip to Leh, Ladakh. For days after we came Kashmiri food and biryani are good places to try out. back, we could still visualize the beauty and that has now become an intrinsic part of our lives! Getting there: By Train: Leh is connected to Jammu, which is the What to see: nearest railway station about 750 kms away. Shanti Stupa, Thiksey Monastery, Hemis Monastery, Pangong lake, Khardung-La pass, Gurudwara Pathar By Road: Leh is well connected by road with Manali Sahib, the Hall of Fame, Temple of Guardians in Spituk (470 km), Jammu (750 km), Srinagar (720 km) and Delhi monastery, Leh Palace, Leh Fort, Shankar Gompa, (1000 km). There are regular state and private buses

From L to R : but had an air of peace and tranquility surrounding it. for that day was the Druk Krupa school of The 3 idiots Thiksey Monastery ; Khardungla The prayer hall was cold and the only sound that we fame which was yet another beautiful building. Shanti Stupa ; Pass could hear was the monks’ chanting and the occasional Maitreya Buddha Matho Monastery, Jama Masjid, Zanskar ranges, We retired early that night with the thought that we from these places. From Manali cars are also available. fluttering of the robes when the young lamas got up Zorawar Fort, Stanka monastery, Tsmo monastery had to leave for Pangong lake, the highlight of the trip, JKSRTC buses from Srinagar to Leh take about two to serve the butter tea. As amazing as monasteries the next day. We were a little apprehensive and excited Adventure sports: days and HRTC buses from Manali to Leh take about could be, there was only so much praying that one too. Apprehensive since the journey was scheduled to Bike-trekking to Khardung la Pass is an interesting 20 hours non-stop or two days with halt in between. could take; so we decided to skip the chanting inside take 6 hours through the Chang-la-pass at an altitude activity here. Some tour operators also provide river Car hire services are also available. and went out to see the 15-meter high statue of Maitreya of 17,370 ft and excited because we were keen on seeing rafting options. Buddha who is termed as the future Buddha. By Air: There are a host of Airline companies providing the place where the last scenes of the famous movie Weather: regular services from Leh to Delhi, Jammu and Srinagar After the prayers, we visited the Hemis monastery, the were shot. biggest and the wealthiest monastery in Leh. The Leh generally has a cold weather. Summers are cooler and back. Currently Air India, Jet Airways, Jet Konnect We started the ride to the Pangong Lake a little after museum in the Hemis monastery treasures many old and winter in very chilly. In peak summer, June and and Go Air flights are available. 9.00 am. The ride was smooth with the mountain ranges July, temperatures can go up to a maximum of 30 paintings, sacred thankas Moving around: Cars are available for hire for visiting for company until we degrees and in winter it can drop to –16 degrees in (painted images of the various places in and around Leh. encountered a snow enlightenment) and several December, January and February. blizzard. It was a test for Nearby attractions: other exquisite objects. On the Best time to Visit: our lungs. However, Nubra Valley, a very high altitude desert that connects way back we stopped near the The best time to visit is during the summer months of against all odds we Ladakh to the Karakoram mountain ranges is about Sindhu Ghat where the annual June to September. reached our destination Sindhu (Indus) darshan was 150 kilometers from Leh. Here one can enjoy a camel after 7 hours and the first Where to stay: going on. There, we spent some ride amidst beautiful landscape. view of the lake made time with the locals who were Hotel Spic n Span and Dragon Hotel at Old Road and us believe that the wait getting ready to start the the Lha-Ri-Sa Resort in Skara are some good stay was worth, the Photos by Anil Pradhan cultural festival. Our last stop options. apprehension was fair Hemis Prayer Wheel

30 27 Destination - North Destination - East Home Nivedita Chakraborty Atop a Hill

LEHMahuya Paul and Meghna Paul the rooftop of the World

After the movie The 3 Idiots was released, there was a We got to have a taste of the Ladakh beauty even before Gangtok, capital of Himalayan state of Sikkim stands about sheets of glass as streams of rainwater flow downwards. nationwide obsession with Leh, Ladakh in general and we touched its soils. The 55 minutes flight from Delhi 6000 ft above sea level. The beautiful city, my home for The clouds seem to hover around the heads like a hallo. the Pangong Lake in particular (the climax of the movie to Leh was the most enjoyable flight for us. For the first the last two years, is in the east of Sikkim with a When it is sunny, one cannot stop looking at the sky was shot there). But even all that hype could not prepare time our minds were off air pockets and turbulences population of a little over a lakh. Gangtok literally from time to time and marvel at its blueness. This city us fully for the experience that we were to embark on and rather involved in the lovely Zanskar Ranges below. meaning ‘hill top’, is surrounded by mountain ranges is a curtain raiser for all the exotic things Sikkim has for our visit to the rooftop of the world. We were The panoramic view of the glistening snow capped on all sides. The ideal time to visit this place is from to offer. traveling with a group of exciting and fun-loving mountains, the piles of clouds flying over them, and October to early December and then February to May. The Lepchas, Bhutias and the Nepalis account for most women. the sun peeking occasionally gave us an idea of what There are three things which one notices on entering of the population here. Nepali is the main medium of lay ahead. this exotic place, the blanket of deep green surrounding communication in Gangtok, with Hindi and English the city, the high rises Unlike in any other place, our stay in Leh started with spoken fluently by most. on either side of the lots of rest, drinking water and walking slowly for the People from all over the streets housing most purpose of acclimatization. Once adjusted to the world come and fall in of the population and altitude, in the late evening we ventured out and visited love with Sikkim’s the prayer flags the Shanti Stupa. The Stupa is a magnificent white natural beauty and its fluttering in the breeze domed structure, built to promote worldly peace and fun loving people and I from roof tops. commemorate 2,500 years of Buddhism. It is located am no exception. on the hilltop and gives a spectacular view of the whole When I first came to For someone coming to of Leh. Gangtok I was Gangtok for the first overwhelmed by the The next morning we visited the Thiksey monastery time, it is helpful to natural beauty of this to witness the morning prayers by the lamas. The know that visiting all the place. On a rainy day imposing 12-storey white building looked dilapidated places in and around the streets look like Zanskar ranges from flight Lingdum Monastery

26 31 Gangtok can take up 3-4 days. But most Where to eat: tourists just visit the more popular ones Most hotels here have restaurants that provide descent food. They serve which can be covered in 2 days with no a wide variety of north Indian, South Indian, Chinese and Moghlai dishes. Destination - East night stays involved, which also includes However, it is best to try out the South Indian dishes here. the Nathula Pass in the Indo-China border. But to visit all over Sikkim one needs at Getting there: least 8-10 days if not a fortnight. The By Train: Yumthang valley and Gurudongmar Lake, The nearest broad gauge railway station Mettupalayam is 46 kilometers in North Sikkim which takes up two days away. From here one can take the meter gauge train up to Ooty, covering and a night each are highly a distance of 28 kms. Midway, there is a stoppage at Coonoor. recommendable. There are home-stay By Road: Buses ply regularly from major towns and cities in Southern India like Coimbatore, Bangalore, Mysore, Erode, Calicut, Palghat, Kanyakumari, which grows passion fruit and the best way to Thanjavur, Tirupati, Madurai, Trichy, Salem, Cochin and Ooty. Ooty, take back a part of this beautiful place is to buy being situated at the junction of three south Indian states viz. Tamil packaged jams and juices of passion fruit which Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka, it is very well connected all major cities are sold all over Sikkim. The local food here across these states and Ooty to Coonoor is only 18 kms by road. mainly includes lots of fresh green vegetables, meat and poultry. Both vegetarian and non By Air: (R) Khecheopalri lake in vegetarian versions of the Momo are popular The nearest airport is at Coimbatore at a distance of 70 kms from Coonoor. the shape of a foot, believed here, along with Thukpa, a piping hot soup of to be made of God's tears ; Moving around: (L) Rhododendrons in full vegetables, noodles and choice of meat/poultry. bloom Then there is Churpi, a form of fermented soft Local buses are available. However auto rickshaws are more common facilities available, to experience the rural life of Sikkim cheese made from yak milk, which is cooked with lots mode of transport here. Hotels do also arrange for cars for site seeing. and know more about their lifestyle. The Khecheopalri of onions and garlic and eaten with rice. Charges are quite nominal. Lake via Yuksam, the ancient capital and Tashiding The temperature in Gangtok hardly goes over 21 What to shop for: Monastery in West Sikkim can take up another couple degrees in the summer months (May to August) and of days including a night stay at Yuksam which is also While in Coonoor, one would love to shop for some exotic fruits. In the may come down to 3-4 degrees during winter (mid the native village of the renowned Bollywood actor market one finds numerous fruit stalls with almost innumerable options October to February). Sikkim has an annual rainfall of Danny Denzongpa. to choose from. Some of the major fruits of the region are apples, Pears, 3,894 mm. The weather in Gangtok is therefore very For those who are interested in pleasant through out the year. peaches, plums, apricots, persimmons, lemons and pomegranates. Fruit adventure tourism Sikkim has on People here like to dress in style. products like Marmalade, Jam, Jelly, Squashes and Pickles also make offer various sports like Trekking, So monsoon sees an array of good shopping items here. Then there are spices, tea and various types Traversing and Paragliding. There beautiful umbrellas, windcheaters of oil which are available all across the town. Hand-made chocolates are are Orchid festivals held all round and boots and winters are a good also popular here. the year in Gangtok although March time to flaunt all the scarves, to May and October to November overcoats, boots and headgears are the best seasons. The in the wardrobe. Rhododendrons are in full bloom The perishable market in Gangtok from March to April, and the green is mostly dependent on supplies of the mountain slopes covered with from Siliguri and the organic red of the rhododendrons make for farmers of west and south Sikkim. an exotic sight. So during the monsoons, almost Sikkim is the only place in India every year, there is a scarcity of View of Gangtok from the rope way

32 SEASON 4

An Artist's Impression YOURH OLDIAYD ESTNIATOI N

Serenity of Sikkim Pedong, Aritar, Zuluk, Nathang, Sillery, Rikkisum, Ranithey Offbeat West Bengal Bagora,Gurashey, Sanser, Rishikhola, Kolakham, Charkhola,Rishyap. Mesmerising Kashmir M G Marg Jammu, Pahalgam, Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Katra, Vaishnodevi supplies because of landslides on the roads connecting this city God’s own country- Kerala to the rest of the country. But at other times the market at Lallbazar Cochin, Munnar, Thekkady,Alleppey, Kollam, which houses a fish and meat market in the ground floor, a Kovalam, Trisure,Athirapally, Punnathurkotta, vegetable market in the second and other stationeries and clothes Kalady in the third to fifth floor is chock-a-block with stocks. This is a Royal Rajasthan place where one can shop to hearts content and yet get a bargain. Bikaner, Jodhpur, Jaiselmer,Mt. Abu, Udaipur, The collection of western wear in the shops on the third and fourth Chittore Garh, Pushkar, Ajmer, Jaipur floors is worth a check.

The Mahatma Gandhi Marg, popularly called M.G. Marg is For the first time in West Bengal we have started craft tourism in Bankura - Bishnupur, Chandar - nonetheless the heart and soul of Gangtok. Lined with shops, a tourism wih workshop. restaurants and cafés on both sides, the walkway is a no-vehicle We organize Sunderban program & zone where one can take a stroll and have a great shopping also organize Kolkata city tour. experience. There are benches placed at intervals throughout M.G. Marg. With soothing music flowing out of the speakers and Just 3 hrs drive from siliguri.... seasonal flowers in their full bloom dotting the walkway, it is a Pedong pleasure at any time of the day. There are shops selling small take- home-gifts priced quite reasonably from Rs. 100 to Rs. 1000. There A place with combination of nature, culure & history. are souvenir shops selling murals of bronze and silver which are priced above Rs. 1000. Silver jewelry with semi precious stones (red, green and black onyx) is also quite popular. Being a hill station, no wonder, there are numerous shops selling winter wear in a variety of designs and cuts.

M.G. Marg also has some very good eateries. Baker’s café, Mountain Oven, Cacao and Tripti’s are good places to have a quick bite and coffee. For those having a knack for chai, samosa and mithai there Jelep La Village Resort are outlets like Unique Sweets and Dey’s sweets. Parivar and Season 4 Rasoi are restaurants that cater a pure vegetarian menu whereas 20 Ajanta Park, Kol-86 Apna Dhaba is good for all types of Indian and Mughlai pallets. Opp Bank of India, Baghajatin Allen’s Kitchen, Taste of Tibet, are places which have a variety of Ph: 033-6548 2804, 9830881885 Asian dishes. Luckily enough, good food does not stop at M.G. [email protected] Marg. The Tangerine on Tibet Road for Asian cuisine, Suhin’s [email protected] Web:www.season4.co.in Portico at Sichey for Indian and continental dishes, Little Italy at

40 33 Deorali for Italian food, Café Live and Loud on Tibet Road, Lounge 31A in Deorali and Pub29 at New Market for continental food and live

Destination - East music are some of the places which serve not only good food but also have a very comfortable ambience.

Gangtok also boasts of only land casinos in India, The Casino at the Royal Plaza and Casino Mahjong at the Mayfair.

Living in Gangtok and being able to share a part of the lives of the people living here has enriched me in a unique way. The simple lives they lead, Tarkhola Eco-Tourism Resort their food habits, their lifestyle is a reflection of Airport. Fares Rs 150 - Rs 250 per person for cabs, Rs the terrain, the climate and their good spirit. All these 3000 for a cab, Rs 250 bus fare with Sikkim Nationalised have inspired me to see beyond the chilly winters, the Transport Bus Service. (Fares change seasonally) difficult times during the monsoon and the high prices of things of daily use. This city has a charm which is Sightseeing in Gangtok: only to be experienced by spending some time here, Cars Rs. 3,000 for a day (8 hours) that no words can describe. Package tours are available for North, South, East and Transport and Communication: West Sikkim through Travel Agencies @ Rs 3000 - Rs Air: Baghdogra Airport (123 kms) in North Bengal 10000 per person

Rail: Siliguri railway Station (114 kms) and New Top Spots in Gangtok: Jalpaiguri Station(125 kms) are the nearest Rumtek Monastery, Enchay Monastery, Chorten Roads: Private and Public transport available from Monastery, Lingdum Monastery, Sa-Ngor Monastery, Siliguri Junction, New Jalpaiguri station and Baghdogra Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, Banjhakri Falls,

Ravangla, South Sikkim

34 39 Recommended Tours apart from Gangtok: Nathula Pass, Tsomgo Lake and Bawa Harbhajan Singh ka Mandir in East Sikkim, Yumthang Valley, Destination - East Gurudongmar Lake and the indigenous Lepcha Reserve at Dzongu in North Sikkim.

Home stays in villages like Kewzing in South Sikkim and the Chaardham near the District Capital, Namchi.

Pelling and Khecheopalri Lake in West Sikkim.

On the way to Gangtok on NH 31A: Mahananda reserve forest, Sevokeswari Kali Mandir at Sevoke, Coronation bridge (Baghpool) on the Teesta, Tarkhola eco-tourism Resort, River rafting facility at different spots from Teesta Bazar to Melli, Martam Ban jakhri Falls Water Garden at Martam. Bakthang Falls, Tashi View Point, Gangtok Ropeway, Food: Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok, Himalayan Zoological Park, Flower Show Complex. Lunch options (rice, dal, vegetables, chicken curry, momos) and tea available at Lohapool, Melli, Tirney. Hospitality: Rooms available for all categories between Rs 1000 - ** Permits are required to visit places in North and East Sikkim. Rs 10000

38 An Artist's Impression An Artist's Impression

36 37 An Artist's Impression An Artist's Impression

36 37 Recommended Tours apart from Gangtok: Nathula Pass, Tsomgo Lake and Bawa Harbhajan Singh ka Mandir in East Sikkim, Yumthang Valley, Destination - East Gurudongmar Lake and the indigenous Lepcha Reserve at Dzongu in North Sikkim.

Home stays in villages like Kewzing in South Sikkim and the Chaardham near the District Capital, Namchi.

Pelling and Khecheopalri Lake in West Sikkim.

On the way to Gangtok on NH 31A: Mahananda reserve forest, Sevokeswari Kali Mandir at Sevoke, Coronation bridge (Baghpool) on the Teesta, Tarkhola eco-tourism Resort, River rafting facility at different spots from Teesta Bazar to Melli, Martam Ban jakhri Falls Water Garden at Martam. Bakthang Falls, Tashi View Point, Gangtok Ropeway, Food: Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok, Himalayan Zoological Park, Flower Show Complex. Lunch options (rice, dal, vegetables, chicken curry, momos) and tea available at Lohapool, Melli, Tirney. Hospitality: Rooms available for all categories between Rs 1000 - ** Permits are required to visit places in North and East Sikkim. Rs 10000

38 Deorali for Italian food, Café Live and Loud on Tibet Road, Lounge 31A in Deorali and Pub29 at New Market for continental food and live

Destination - East music are some of the places which serve not only good food but also have a very comfortable ambience.

Gangtok also boasts of only land casinos in India, The Casino at the Royal Plaza and Casino Mahjong at the Mayfair.

Living in Gangtok and being able to share a part of the lives of the people living here has enriched me in a unique way. The simple lives they lead, Tarkhola Eco-Tourism Resort their food habits, their lifestyle is a reflection of Airport. Fares Rs 150 - Rs 250 per person for cabs, Rs the terrain, the climate and their good spirit. All these 3000 for a cab, Rs 250 bus fare with Sikkim Nationalised have inspired me to see beyond the chilly winters, the Transport Bus Service. (Fares change seasonally) difficult times during the monsoon and the high prices of things of daily use. This city has a charm which is Sightseeing in Gangtok: only to be experienced by spending some time here, Cars Rs. 3,000 for a day (8 hours) that no words can describe. Package tours are available for North, South, East and Transport and Communication: West Sikkim through Travel Agencies @ Rs 3000 - Rs Air: Baghdogra Airport (123 kms) in North Bengal 10000 per person

Rail: Siliguri railway Station (114 kms) and New Top Spots in Gangtok: Jalpaiguri Station(125 kms) are the nearest Rumtek Monastery, Enchay Monastery, Chorten Roads: Private and Public transport available from Monastery, Lingdum Monastery, Sa-Ngor Monastery, Siliguri Junction, New Jalpaiguri station and Baghdogra Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, Banjhakri Falls,

Ravangla, South Sikkim

34 39 SEASON 4

An Artist's Impression YOURH OLDIAYD ESTNIATOI N

Serenity of Sikkim Pedong, Aritar, Zuluk, Nathang, Sillery, Rikkisum, Ranithey Offbeat West Bengal Bagora,Gurashey, Sanser, Rishikhola, Kolakham, Charkhola,Rishyap. Mesmerising Kashmir M G Marg Jammu, Pahalgam, Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Katra, Vaishnodevi supplies because of landslides on the roads connecting this city God’s own country- Kerala to the rest of the country. But at other times the market at Lallbazar Cochin, Munnar, Thekkady,Alleppey, Kollam, which houses a fish and meat market in the ground floor, a Kovalam, Trisure,Athirapally, Punnathurkotta, vegetable market in the second and other stationeries and clothes Kalady in the third to fifth floor is chock-a-block with stocks. This is a Royal Rajasthan place where one can shop to hearts content and yet get a bargain. Bikaner, Jodhpur, Jaiselmer,Mt. Abu, Udaipur, The collection of western wear in the shops on the third and fourth Chittore Garh, Pushkar, Ajmer, Jaipur floors is worth a check.

The Mahatma Gandhi Marg, popularly called M.G. Marg is For the first time in West Bengal we have started craft tourism in Bankura - Bishnupur, Chandar - nonetheless the heart and soul of Gangtok. Lined with shops, a tourism wih workshop. restaurants and cafés on both sides, the walkway is a no-vehicle We organize Sunderban program & zone where one can take a stroll and have a great shopping also organize Kolkata city tour. experience. There are benches placed at intervals throughout M.G. Marg. With soothing music flowing out of the speakers and Just 3 hrs drive from siliguri.... seasonal flowers in their full bloom dotting the walkway, it is a Pedong pleasure at any time of the day. There are shops selling small take- home-gifts priced quite reasonably from Rs. 100 to Rs. 1000. There A place with combination of nature, culure & history. are souvenir shops selling murals of bronze and silver which are priced above Rs. 1000. Silver jewelry with semi precious stones (red, green and black onyx) is also quite popular. Being a hill station, no wonder, there are numerous shops selling winter wear in a variety of designs and cuts.

M.G. Marg also has some very good eateries. Baker’s café, Mountain Oven, Cacao and Tripti’s are good places to have a quick bite and coffee. For those having a knack for chai, samosa and mithai there Jelep La Village Resort are outlets like Unique Sweets and Dey’s sweets. Parivar and Season 4 Rasoi are restaurants that cater a pure vegetarian menu whereas 20 Ajanta Park, Kol-86 Apna Dhaba is good for all types of Indian and Mughlai pallets. Opp Bank of India, Baghajatin Allen’s Kitchen, Taste of Tibet, are places which have a variety of Ph: 033-6548 2804, 9830881885 Asian dishes. Luckily enough, good food does not stop at M.G. [email protected] Marg. The Tangerine on Tibet Road for Asian cuisine, Suhin’s [email protected] Web:www.season4.co.in Portico at Sichey for Indian and continental dishes, Little Italy at

40 33 Matheran where tourists come across macaque monkeys and langurs in large numbers. An Artist's Impression n Garbut Point located a few kilometers away from Matheran which presents spectacular views of sunrise and sunset and of the Central Railway line to Karjat.

n Chowk Point, another viewpoint from where visitors can have a glimpse of the majestic Sahyadri ranges and the forts of Karnala, Vishalgad and Prabalgarh. Panorama point n Rambagh Point, a popular picnic on pony-back. It is also possible to just walk around. point with spectacular scenery of the hills around There are more than 35 marked viewpoints including: which provides great view of many viewpoints

n Panorama Point from where one can have a across Matheran and aerial view of nearby towns. panoramic 360 degree view of the surrounding hills Apart from these viewpoints, other notable ones and plains, the neighbouring Ulhas river and the providing a glimpse of the pristine beauty of Matheran Neral town at the foothill as well as great views of are Echo Point, Honeymoon Point, Lords Point, Artist sunset and sunrise. It is the best point to start the Point, Khandala Point, Alexander Point, Porcupine day and is also called the Sunrise point. Point etc. The other attractions in Matheran are:

n Louisa Point located on top of an imposing plateau n Charlotte Lake which is the sole source of water in from where one can have great views of the the hilltop town offering a majestic ambience and Vishalgarh and Prabalgarh Forts which were the heavenly calmness. forts of Chattrapati Shivaji. One must be cautious n Paymaster Park with its great variety of flowers and here as there are multiple cases of accidents due to great scenic beauty, a great place for picnic. fall from the peak. n Parsi bungalows and buildings in beautiful old n One Tree Hill Point which is a hill with a solo British-style architecture. Jambhul tree perched on top. It is quite popular with trekkers.

n Hart Point which offers magnificent view of the green valley dotted with villages below and a majestic view of lit up Mumbai city in the evening.

n Malang point which is a popular location amongst the Hindu devotees because of the Hanuman temple at Hasya Cha Patti village close to Matheran. It provides picturesque views of the surrounding hills and valleys.

n Monkey Point, the popular spot in Charlotte lake

48 41 An Artist's Impression

Louisa point rail lines were laid between Neral and Matheran in 1907 by Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy. To this date, many old British era buildings are well preserved and this coupled with the presence of unmetalled muddy roads made of red laterite earth and ponies transporting people and goods, gives an image of a quiet town two centuries back.

A very good way to reach Matheran is to take a toy train from Neral in the base of the hill. The trip is very enjoyable. For people taking their own vehicles, Dasturi Naka is the last motor-able point and cars have to be parked at the parking here. Matheran centre is still 2.5 kms from this point. From here one can walk, pony- ride or take a hand-pulled rickshaw up to Matheran centre. Porters are also available to carry luggage. The more energetic generally follow the toy train line and trek up to the town centre.

What to see:

Despite its tiny size, there are plenty of things to see and do in Matheran. It has a true old-world charm, unpolluted and tranquil with much greenery and wildlife around. One can easily explore all the places

Toy train and red muddy track

42 Destination - West An Artist's Impression

Matheran Sanghamitra the tiniest hill station in India

Located less than a hundred kilometers from the bustling the fame of a major destination for short trips and Mumbai, in nature’s nest, is a tiny hill station discovered picnics. The place stays cool and less humid throughout and developed by British officers as a summer retreat the year and serves an easy excuse for quick getaways. in the mid 19th century. Matheran is barely 8 square While many travelers do stay in Matheran for a couple kilometers in size and lies on Sahyadri hill range of the of days or more, it is also worthwhile to make a day Western Ghats Mountains. It occupies the flat top of a trip from Mumbai and come back on the same day. hill at a height of 2630 ft. and is covered by dense Matheran is unique in that one does not find any Jambol forest, flora and fauna and surrounded by vehicles here. It is the only pedestrian hill station in cascading waterfalls. A visit to Matheran is sure to be Asia. In order to preserve its ecosystem the Ministry a uniquely invigorating experience. of Environment and Forest, Government of India has Due to its proximity to three major Maharashtrian banned motor vehicles inside this hill station. This is towns, Mumbai, Pune and Nasik, Matheran has earned the only place in India where such a rule is in force. But the entire town is pretty walkable, and if at all one requires some transportation, a ride on horse or hand- pulled rickshaws are the two options available. Because of no vehicles, the air is clean and that adds to the charm of the hill station.

The name of Matheran translates to ‘forest on the head’ in Marathi. Forests here are home to a large population of primates like Macaques and Langurs. There are large variety of medicinal plants and herbs also in the deciduous forests.

Soon after Matheran was discovered by the British, many British families and wealthy Parsi merchants came here and built there summer abode. For ease in transportation from Mumbai, 0.67 meters narrow-gauge Way to Matheran

46 43 TM TM

Fascinating world, beckoning places . TRAVELMAG

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Please fill the form in CAPITAL letters.

Introducing Touriosity Travelmag! I am enclosing the cheque/DD number Dated With a selection of interesting travel topics covering locations ranging from known, less known, Drawn on (specify bank) little known to totally unknown, we aspire to reach all types of readers, travelers and enthusiasts. only Rs. Our mission is to bring to the readers amazing travel stories from across the world and at the same favouring Afield Touriosity Pvt. Ltd. for time to inform and advise travelers of all tastes and budgets about new holiday ideas. Title Mr. Mrs. Ms. Dr. Full Name First Middle Last Touriosity Travelmag introduces readers and travelers alike to off the beat travel destinations while also reviewing the more popular ones. From traveling poets, writers, cartoonists and artists to D.O.B. backpackers, globetrotters, mountaineers, family holidaymakers, single women travelers, mothers, Address student travelers, adventure seekers and business travelers, it brings to the readers travel stories and experiences from a variety of writers across the globe. Reading through it is sure to be an City State Pin Code overwhelming experience. STD Code Phone (off.) Touriosity Travelmag covers less known places, weekend getaways, romantic holidays, adventure trips, family vacations, mountaineering pursuits, underwater experiences, natural wonders, gourmet (Resi.) tours, wildlife, safari, history tours, small towns reviews, resorts stays, cruise experiences, bicycle Mobile No. tours, religious visits, cultural and diaspora tourism, backpacking, hitchhiking, jet-setting adventures and many more. E-mail

Signature Date

Dear reader, if you would like to write for Terms and Conditions: 1. The offer is for a limited period only. 2. Afield Touriosity Private Limited Please fill in the form and mail it along with your will not be responsible for loss or mutilation of the magazine during transit or of any postal delay. us or share your experiences contact us. cheque/draft to 3. Payments are subject to realization. 4. Cash payments will not be accepted. 5. Cheques must be payable in Kolkata. 6. Any disputes arising will be subject to Indian laws. 7. Above rates relate Send us your feedback at Afield Touriosity Private Limited to ordinary postal delivery only. For express/courier delivery extra charges depending upon delivery [email protected] Flat E, B/6, Bapujinagar, location are to be added. For more about us, visit our website: P.O. Regent Estate, Kolkata - 700092 For courier charges, please call us at 033-32613664 www.touriositytravel.com Destination - West An Artist's Impression

Matheran Sanghamitra the tiniest hill station in India

Located less than a hundred kilometers from the bustling the fame of a major destination for short trips and Mumbai, in nature’s nest, is a tiny hill station discovered picnics. The place stays cool and less humid throughout and developed by British officers as a summer retreat the year and serves an easy excuse for quick getaways. in the mid 19th century. Matheran is barely 8 square While many travelers do stay in Matheran for a couple kilometers in size and lies on Sahyadri hill range of the of days or more, it is also worthwhile to make a day Western Ghats Mountains. It occupies the flat top of a trip from Mumbai and come back on the same day. hill at a height of 2630 ft. and is covered by dense Matheran is unique in that one does not find any Jambol forest, flora and fauna and surrounded by vehicles here. It is the only pedestrian hill station in cascading waterfalls. A visit to Matheran is sure to be Asia. In order to preserve its ecosystem the Ministry a uniquely invigorating experience. of Environment and Forest, Government of India has Due to its proximity to three major Maharashtrian banned motor vehicles inside this hill station. This is towns, Mumbai, Pune and Nasik, Matheran has earned the only place in India where such a rule is in force. But the entire town is pretty walkable, and if at all one requires some transportation, a ride on horse or hand- pulled rickshaws are the two options available. Because of no vehicles, the air is clean and that adds to the charm of the hill station.

The name of Matheran translates to ‘forest on the head’ in Marathi. Forests here are home to a large population of primates like Macaques and Langurs. There are large variety of medicinal plants and herbs also in the deciduous forests.

Soon after Matheran was discovered by the British, many British families and wealthy Parsi merchants came here and built there summer abode. For ease in transportation from Mumbai, 0.67 meters narrow-gauge Way to Matheran

46 43 An Artist's Impression

Louisa point rail lines were laid between Neral and Matheran in 1907 by Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy. To this date, many old British era buildings are well preserved and this coupled with the presence of unmetalled muddy roads made of red laterite earth and ponies transporting people and goods, gives an image of a quiet town two centuries back.

A very good way to reach Matheran is to take a toy train from Neral in the base of the hill. The trip is very enjoyable. For people taking their own vehicles, Dasturi Naka is the last motor-able point and cars have to be parked at the parking here. Matheran centre is still 2.5 kms from this point. From here one can walk, pony- ride or take a hand-pulled rickshaw up to Matheran centre. Porters are also available to carry luggage. The more energetic generally follow the toy train line and trek up to the town centre.

What to see:

Despite its tiny size, there are plenty of things to see and do in Matheran. It has a true old-world charm, unpolluted and tranquil with much greenery and wildlife around. One can easily explore all the places

Toy train and red muddy track

42 Matheran where tourists come across macaque monkeys and langurs in large numbers. An Artist's Impression n Garbut Point located a few kilometers away from Matheran which presents spectacular views of sunrise and sunset and of the Central Railway line to Karjat.

n Chowk Point, another viewpoint from where visitors can have a glimpse of the majestic Sahyadri ranges and the forts of Karnala, Vishalgad and Prabalgarh. Panorama point n Rambagh Point, a popular picnic on pony-back. It is also possible to just walk around. point with spectacular scenery of the hills around There are more than 35 marked viewpoints including: which provides great view of many viewpoints

n Panorama Point from where one can have a across Matheran and aerial view of nearby towns. panoramic 360 degree view of the surrounding hills Apart from these viewpoints, other notable ones and plains, the neighbouring Ulhas river and the providing a glimpse of the pristine beauty of Matheran Neral town at the foothill as well as great views of are Echo Point, Honeymoon Point, Lords Point, Artist sunset and sunrise. It is the best point to start the Point, Khandala Point, Alexander Point, Porcupine day and is also called the Sunrise point. Point etc. The other attractions in Matheran are:

n Louisa Point located on top of an imposing plateau n Charlotte Lake which is the sole source of water in from where one can have great views of the the hilltop town offering a majestic ambience and Vishalgarh and Prabalgarh Forts which were the heavenly calmness. forts of Chattrapati Shivaji. One must be cautious n Paymaster Park with its great variety of flowers and here as there are multiple cases of accidents due to great scenic beauty, a great place for picnic. fall from the peak. n Parsi bungalows and buildings in beautiful old n One Tree Hill Point which is a hill with a solo British-style architecture. Jambhul tree perched on top. It is quite popular with trekkers.

n Hart Point which offers magnificent view of the green valley dotted with villages below and a majestic view of lit up Mumbai city in the evening.

n Malang point which is a popular location amongst the Hindu devotees because of the Hanuman temple at Hasya Cha Patti village close to Matheran. It provides picturesque views of the surrounding hills and valleys.

n Monkey Point, the popular spot in Charlotte lake

48 41 Destination - Central India

n Panthers’ Caves, the rocky area consisting of more than 30 caves of varying sizes, types and climbing

ability is a climbers’ paradise. There Destination - West PACHMARHI are big, small, walk-in, crawl-in and The Queen of Satpura Mountains muddy caves. n Mount Berry, located 5 kilometers away from Matheran from where one Pachmarhi, the “Queen of The Satpura Mountains” can have a bird’s eye view of Neral is the lone hill station of Madhya Pradesh at a town and of the toy train chugging height of 3350ft. Pachmarhi is serene, through the hill in a zigzag route picturesque and an all season hill resort. It was discovered by Captain Forsyth and developed n Ropeway Valley crossing connecting Road to Matheran by the British as a summer resort. The splendor Honeymoon point with Louisa point of green hills, gurgling rivulets, ravines, red which is a must do for the adventure seekers. It is muddy grounds of red laterite soil from time to time. sandstone gorges, cascading falls, caves of quite a thrilling experience. The train has a capacity of about hundred passengers mystical and archeological importance, winding and normally there are four trains moving up tracks lined by dense sal forests, jamun, groves and down the route. However, the services are of wild bamboo and teak make it a unique reduced to one train a day during the monsoon destination. unless totally cancelled due to possibility of landslides. Pachmarhi is a traveler’s paradise. It offers a variety of tourist attractions like caves, wildlife, Handi Khoh ravine: It is a 300 ft deep V-shaped ravine Adventure sports waterfalls, ponds, bathing pools, temples, churches created by two hills situated side by side. Matheran offers an array of activities for and viewpoints adventure lovers. One can try out activities like Apsara Vihar: It is a pool and a waterfall formed trekking, hiking, rock climbing, paragliding etc. What to see naturally. This spot is an ideal choice for picnics and On peak seasons the small hill station is full Forsyth Point: It is the vantage viewing point from swimming in the pool is also quite popular. Legend of trekkers. where Captain Forsyth discovered Pachmarhi in 1857. has it that during British rule the British women used It is also known as Priyadarshini after Smt. Indira to bathe here wearing white clothes. The local people Weather Echo point Gandhi who visited here in 1964. here took them to be fairies and hence the name of the Matheran enjoys a pleasant weather throughout the Not to be missed Toy Train Experience pool. Jamuna Prapat (Bee Falls): It is a waterfall 150 feet in year. In peak summer, the temperature goes to a The toy train journey from Neral to Matheran is a big maximum of 32°C and the minimum temperature in height. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls of Rajat Prapat: Close to Apsara Vihar is the Rajat Prapat attraction. Completed in 1907, the winter drops to around 15°C. July Pachmarhi and visitors are tempted to take bath in it. waterfall, a must see for visitors. This silver falls has There are many bathing pools here. Matheran Toy Train Service is a to September are a height of 350 feet and is at its best during the rainy heritage experience. The train puffs the monsoon months and less season. and wheezes all the way up from tourists visit at this time of the year. Irene Pool: This is another lake and Neral to Matheran cutting its way through scenic mountainous view, Best time to Visit bathing pool that is named after Irene Bose past hills, vales, cliffs and forests who discovered it. The ideal time to visit Matheran is across a zigzag route, covering a right after the Duchess Falls: It is also known as distance of roughly 20 kilometers in Monsoon, in October, when nature Jalwataran. Trekking up to this waterfall about two hours. The serene beauty is in its best colour. is quite popular with tourists. Like most across the route is overwhelming and waterfalls here, the Duchess falls is also the train chugs along lush green hills Where to stay at its best during the rains. lined with trees past stretches of There are numerous stay options in Muddy roads

56 49 during festival, summer holidays and weekends hotel rates can be quite high.

Where to eat Destination - West Matheran has all types of restaurants serving a variety of cuisines. One should definitely try two Maharashtrian

delicacies, Chikki and Vada-Pav here. While the later is available in numerous roadside stalls, Chikki is best bought in a variety of flavours from an array of shops in the market. Most Hotels and Resorts have good restaurants serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian

Monkey point

Matheran for pockets of all sizes, big and small. While the relatively cheaper accommodations are found near the toy train station, the more expensive villas and resorts are located amidst natural landscape nearer to the forest. During peak seasons room rates get higher and hotels can be full; so it is important to book ahead. The Verandah in the Forest is among the more popular resorts. The Lord's Central Hotel located in the town centre is one of the high budget hotels but has great dishes. There are also places that serve great kebabs mountains and valley views. Mid range hotels include and biryani like the Khan’s Hookahs and Tikkas. It is Hotel Riviera, Hotel Rugby and Hotel Rangoli. Budget a great place for Moghlai, Indian and Chinese food hotels like Horseland Hotel and Mountain Spa and offering an array of lip-smacking dishes and flavored Woodlands Hotel offer a range of activities and hookas to choose from. attractive discount in off seasons. One may also like to Getting there try the old colonial buildings now renovated and converted into hotels like the Fleetwood House near By Train: The closest train station is Neral at the foothill the One Tree hill. In off season, from later part of June which is well connected with Mumbai, Pune and Karjat, to October discounts up to 50% are available. In contrast, the nearest Junction. By Road?: One can take the Mumbai-Pune highway. State Transport buses regularly ply to Neral from Mumbai and Pune. A taxi from Neral to Matheran takes about half hour to reach.

By Air: Mumbai is the nearest airport at a distance of 46 kms.

Moving around

Moving around in Matheran is the easiest task. The more energetic travelers usually walk around covering the various points. Pony rides are fun too and quite popular. There are also hand-pulled rickshaws available. Waterfalls

50 With Compliments From: QUIZ EAST INDIA 1 What is the name of this famous hotel? PHARMACEUTICAL WORKS LIMITED 2 What is the name of Manipur State Handicrafts Emporium? KOLKATA - 700071 3 The logo of which Indian state tourism department has a peacock in it?

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Send in your answers with the following details to [email protected] 1. Full Name 2. Complete Address 3. Phone number 4. Colour passport size photo

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in Karnataka Madhugiri, Savanaduga, and Ramnagar, downstream of the river, one passes by remote tribal in Maharashtra Malshej ghat, in Kerala Pythal Mala, settlements, hills, forests and villages. Snapshots in West Bengal Purulia, Jai Chandi and Susunia Hills, Mountain Sports Golf in Gujarat Pavagadh and in Rajasthan, the rocky region Sanghamitra Golf as a mountain sports has also come a long way. in India around Mt Abu are the popular destinations. There are several good institutes providing training on rock- Golf courses at Srinagar and Gulmarg in Kashmir, climbing across India. Ooty, Kodaikanal and Wellington in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu and those close to Shimla, Himachal Skiing Pradesh are not only popular but also beautiful. For skiing in India Shimla and Manali in Himachal Biking, Cycling and Camping Pradesh, Auli in Uttarakhand, Pahalgam and Gulmarg in Jammu and Kashmir are the popular destinations. Mountain biking in Kerala is an activity to look The best time for skiing is the period between December out for by the sports enthusiasts. Other locations to March. that offer scope to bikers are Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti Valley, Manali, Kullu, Kalka and Paragliding Shimla. Popular routes for adventure on Kangra Valley, Kulu valley and Solang valley in traditional two wheelers are the Manali-Leh Himachal Pradesh are popular locations for paragliding Highway, Manali to Kullu and Kalka to Shimla. activities. The first paragliding season begins in May Mountain sports are a way to realize the bounty, beauty number of mountaineering institutes that provide the A combined trip of biking and camping offers and continues till June and the second season is from and the strength of Mother Nature. There are numerous training to aspiring mountaineers. great pleasure to many enthusiasts. It involves Camping September to November. options for thrill and fun for sports lovers in the cycling in the day time, then looking for a camping site Trekking mountains of India. Amarnath Yatra has been River rafting in evening and putting up the tents, cooking food, Unlike mountaineering expeditions which require eating and sleeping in the wilderness at night. undertaken by Hindu devotees since time immemorial. River Rafting as an adventure sports is also gaining meticulous planning, preparation, clearance and Perhaps this has been the beginning to Indian mountain much popularity in India. Rivers to look out for are The wild undulating mountains, the soothing streams, permission from various authorities, trekking is sports. The trek still continues, year after year. This the Ganga, Alakananda, Bhagirati, Indus, Zanskar, the meadows, the valley of flowers, the occasional wild relatively open to one and all. In India, trekking is unique trekking expedition generally takes place in the Beas, Teesta and Brahmaputra. A few of the tributaries animals etc. together make for a wonderful camping becoming more and more popular irrespective of gender months from June to August. It starts from Pahalgam of the Brahmaputra river in the North East also offer trip in the mountains. The summer months is the best and age. The popular trekking locations are Garhwal (via Chandanwari and Sheshnag) and finally reaches river rafting facilities. As the raft speeds along the time for mountain camping. and Kumaon regions, the Himalayas, Roop Kund, the holy caves of Amarnath. Today mountain sports Tapovan, Nanda Devi National Park, etc. Some very in India have largely improved and increased in variety high altitude trekking destinations are Leh and the and importance. Sports tourism is gaining more and Zanskar ranges in the district of Ladakh and Lahaul more popularity. It appeals to the young and the old and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. In the Sahyadri Ranges alike. Each year April to October sees enthusiasts from of Western Ghats mountains, locations like far and wide gather at the Mahabaleshwar, Harishchandragad, Bhimashankar, picturesque mountain Rajmachi Fort, Tikona fort, Malshej Ghat, Lonavla, etc. locations in India. are popular with trekkers. In the Nilgiris, Ooty and Mountaineering Coonoor are the more sought after ones. The trekking India is a paradise for sites of North east like Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram mountaineers offering and Nagaland are also gaining popularity. Trekking in great locations like the the various locations of Sikkim is already very popular. mountain ranges of Also noteworthy is the Kanchenjunga base camp trek. Indian Himalayan Darjeeling in West Bengal, Mount Abu in Rajasthan, Trekking regions, peaks of Garhwal, Nun-Kun Massif in Jammu Pachmarhi in Madhya Pradesh also attracts a lot of and Kashmir, Sikkim, peaks of the Karakoram ranges, trekkers. Zangskar and Ladakh Ranges and hills of Manali in Rock climbing Himachal Pradesh and few places in Uttranchal. They There are many rock climbing destinations in India. In offer challenges to both body and mind. Mountaineering Himachal Pradesh, Parvati Valley, SAR pass and Miyar involves strong physical activity and calls for formal Valley, in Jammu and Kashmir the Shey rock of Leh, training and a lot of exercise. Across India, there are a

52 Snapshots

in Karnataka Madhugiri, Savanaduga, and Ramnagar, downstream of the river, one passes by remote tribal in Maharashtra Malshej ghat, in Kerala Pythal Mala, settlements, hills, forests and villages. Snapshots in West Bengal Purulia, Jai Chandi and Susunia Hills, Mountain Sports Golf in Gujarat Pavagadh and in Rajasthan, the rocky region Sanghamitra Golf as a mountain sports has also come a long way. in India around Mt Abu are the popular destinations. There are several good institutes providing training on rock- Golf courses at Srinagar and Gulmarg in Kashmir, climbing across India. Ooty, Kodaikanal and Wellington in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu and those close to Shimla, Himachal Skiing Pradesh are not only popular but also beautiful. For skiing in India Shimla and Manali in Himachal Biking, Cycling and Camping Pradesh, Auli in Uttarakhand, Pahalgam and Gulmarg in Jammu and Kashmir are the popular destinations. Mountain biking in Kerala is an activity to look The best time for skiing is the period between December out for by the sports enthusiasts. Other locations to March. that offer scope to bikers are Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti Valley, Manali, Kullu, Kalka and Paragliding Shimla. Popular routes for adventure on Kangra Valley, Kulu valley and Solang valley in traditional two wheelers are the Manali-Leh Himachal Pradesh are popular locations for paragliding Highway, Manali to Kullu and Kalka to Shimla. activities. The first paragliding season begins in May Mountain sports are a way to realize the bounty, beauty number of mountaineering institutes that provide the A combined trip of biking and camping offers and continues till June and the second season is from and the strength of Mother Nature. There are numerous training to aspiring mountaineers. great pleasure to many enthusiasts. It involves Camping September to November. options for thrill and fun for sports lovers in the cycling in the day time, then looking for a camping site Trekking mountains of India. Amarnath Yatra has been River rafting in evening and putting up the tents, cooking food, Unlike mountaineering expeditions which require eating and sleeping in the wilderness at night. undertaken by Hindu devotees since time immemorial. River Rafting as an adventure sports is also gaining meticulous planning, preparation, clearance and Perhaps this has been the beginning to Indian mountain much popularity in India. Rivers to look out for are The wild undulating mountains, the soothing streams, permission from various authorities, trekking is sports. The trek still continues, year after year. This the Ganga, Alakananda, Bhagirati, Indus, Zanskar, the meadows, the valley of flowers, the occasional wild relatively open to one and all. In India, trekking is unique trekking expedition generally takes place in the Beas, Teesta and Brahmaputra. A few of the tributaries animals etc. together make for a wonderful camping becoming more and more popular irrespective of gender months from June to August. It starts from Pahalgam of the Brahmaputra river in the North East also offer trip in the mountains. The summer months is the best and age. The popular trekking locations are Garhwal (via Chandanwari and Sheshnag) and finally reaches river rafting facilities. As the raft speeds along the time for mountain camping. and Kumaon regions, the Himalayas, Roop Kund, the holy caves of Amarnath. Today mountain sports Tapovan, Nanda Devi National Park, etc. Some very in India have largely improved and increased in variety high altitude trekking destinations are Leh and the and importance. Sports tourism is gaining more and Zanskar ranges in the district of Ladakh and Lahaul more popularity. It appeals to the young and the old and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. In the Sahyadri Ranges alike. Each year April to October sees enthusiasts from of Western Ghats mountains, locations like far and wide gather at the Mahabaleshwar, Harishchandragad, Bhimashankar, picturesque mountain Rajmachi Fort, Tikona fort, Malshej Ghat, Lonavla, etc. locations in India. are popular with trekkers. In the Nilgiris, Ooty and Mountaineering Coonoor are the more sought after ones. The trekking India is a paradise for sites of North east like Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram mountaineers offering and Nagaland are also gaining popularity. Trekking in great locations like the the various locations of Sikkim is already very popular. mountain ranges of Also noteworthy is the Kanchenjunga base camp trek. Indian Himalayan Darjeeling in West Bengal, Mount Abu in Rajasthan, Trekking regions, peaks of Garhwal, Nun-Kun Massif in Jammu Pachmarhi in Madhya Pradesh also attracts a lot of and Kashmir, Sikkim, peaks of the Karakoram ranges, trekkers. Zangskar and Ladakh Ranges and hills of Manali in Rock climbing Himachal Pradesh and few places in Uttranchal. They There are many rock climbing destinations in India. In offer challenges to both body and mind. Mountaineering Himachal Pradesh, Parvati Valley, SAR pass and Miyar involves strong physical activity and calls for formal Valley, in Jammu and Kashmir the Shey rock of Leh, training and a lot of exercise. Across India, there are a

52 With Compliments From: QUIZ EAST INDIA 1 What is the name of this famous hotel? PHARMACEUTICAL WORKS LIMITED 2 What is the name of Manipur State Handicrafts Emporium? KOLKATA - 700071 3 The logo of which Indian state tourism department has a peacock in it?

4 What is the name of this temple?

5 What is the slogan for Touriosity Travelmag?

Send in your answers with the following details to [email protected] 1. Full Name 2. Complete Address 3. Phone number 4. Colour passport size photo

The first three correct entries will get attractive gifts. Names and photos of winners will also be published in the next issue. during festival, summer holidays and weekends hotel rates can be quite high.

Where to eat Destination - West Matheran has all types of restaurants serving a variety of cuisines. One should definitely try two Maharashtrian

delicacies, Chikki and Vada-Pav here. While the later is available in numerous roadside stalls, Chikki is best bought in a variety of flavours from an array of shops in the market. Most Hotels and Resorts have good restaurants serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian

Monkey point

Matheran for pockets of all sizes, big and small. While the relatively cheaper accommodations are found near the toy train station, the more expensive villas and resorts are located amidst natural landscape nearer to the forest. During peak seasons room rates get higher and hotels can be full; so it is important to book ahead. The Verandah in the Forest is among the more popular resorts. The Lord's Central Hotel located in the town centre is one of the high budget hotels but has great dishes. There are also places that serve great kebabs mountains and valley views. Mid range hotels include and biryani like the Khan’s Hookahs and Tikkas. It is Hotel Riviera, Hotel Rugby and Hotel Rangoli. Budget a great place for Moghlai, Indian and Chinese food hotels like Horseland Hotel and Mountain Spa and offering an array of lip-smacking dishes and flavored Woodlands Hotel offer a range of activities and hookas to choose from. attractive discount in off seasons. One may also like to Getting there try the old colonial buildings now renovated and converted into hotels like the Fleetwood House near By Train: The closest train station is Neral at the foothill the One Tree hill. In off season, from later part of June which is well connected with Mumbai, Pune and Karjat, to October discounts up to 50% are available. In contrast, the nearest Junction. By Road?: One can take the Mumbai-Pune highway. State Transport buses regularly ply to Neral from Mumbai and Pune. A taxi from Neral to Matheran takes about half hour to reach.

By Air: Mumbai is the nearest airport at a distance of 46 kms.

Moving around

Moving around in Matheran is the easiest task. The more energetic travelers usually walk around covering the various points. Pony rides are fun too and quite popular. There are also hand-pulled rickshaws available. Waterfalls

50 Destination - Central India

n Panthers’ Caves, the rocky area consisting of more than 30 caves of varying sizes, types and climbing

ability is a climbers’ paradise. There Destination - West PACHMARHI are big, small, walk-in, crawl-in and The Queen of Satpura Mountains muddy caves. n Mount Berry, located 5 kilometers away from Matheran from where one Pachmarhi, the “Queen of The Satpura Mountains” can have a bird’s eye view of Neral is the lone hill station of Madhya Pradesh at a town and of the toy train chugging height of 3350ft. Pachmarhi is serene, through the hill in a zigzag route picturesque and an all season hill resort. It was discovered by Captain Forsyth and developed n Ropeway Valley crossing connecting Road to Matheran by the British as a summer resort. The splendor Honeymoon point with Louisa point of green hills, gurgling rivulets, ravines, red which is a must do for the adventure seekers. It is muddy grounds of red laterite soil from time to time. sandstone gorges, cascading falls, caves of quite a thrilling experience. The train has a capacity of about hundred passengers mystical and archeological importance, winding and normally there are four trains moving up tracks lined by dense sal forests, jamun, groves and down the route. However, the services are of wild bamboo and teak make it a unique reduced to one train a day during the monsoon destination. unless totally cancelled due to possibility of landslides. Pachmarhi is a traveler’s paradise. It offers a variety of tourist attractions like caves, wildlife, Handi Khoh ravine: It is a 300 ft deep V-shaped ravine Adventure sports waterfalls, ponds, bathing pools, temples, churches created by two hills situated side by side. Matheran offers an array of activities for and viewpoints adventure lovers. One can try out activities like Apsara Vihar: It is a pool and a waterfall formed trekking, hiking, rock climbing, paragliding etc. What to see naturally. This spot is an ideal choice for picnics and On peak seasons the small hill station is full Forsyth Point: It is the vantage viewing point from swimming in the pool is also quite popular. Legend of trekkers. where Captain Forsyth discovered Pachmarhi in 1857. has it that during British rule the British women used It is also known as Priyadarshini after Smt. Indira to bathe here wearing white clothes. The local people Weather Echo point Gandhi who visited here in 1964. here took them to be fairies and hence the name of the Matheran enjoys a pleasant weather throughout the Not to be missed Toy Train Experience pool. Jamuna Prapat (Bee Falls): It is a waterfall 150 feet in year. In peak summer, the temperature goes to a The toy train journey from Neral to Matheran is a big maximum of 32°C and the minimum temperature in height. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls of Rajat Prapat: Close to Apsara Vihar is the Rajat Prapat attraction. Completed in 1907, the winter drops to around 15°C. July Pachmarhi and visitors are tempted to take bath in it. waterfall, a must see for visitors. This silver falls has There are many bathing pools here. Matheran Toy Train Service is a to September are a height of 350 feet and is at its best during the rainy heritage experience. The train puffs the monsoon months and less season. and wheezes all the way up from tourists visit at this time of the year. Irene Pool: This is another lake and Neral to Matheran cutting its way through scenic mountainous view, Best time to Visit bathing pool that is named after Irene Bose past hills, vales, cliffs and forests who discovered it. The ideal time to visit Matheran is across a zigzag route, covering a right after the Duchess Falls: It is also known as distance of roughly 20 kilometers in Monsoon, in October, when nature Jalwataran. Trekking up to this waterfall about two hours. The serene beauty is in its best colour. is quite popular with tourists. Like most across the route is overwhelming and waterfalls here, the Duchess falls is also the train chugs along lush green hills Where to stay at its best during the rains. lined with trees past stretches of There are numerous stay options in Muddy roads

56 49 Paris has eternally been the city of my dreams. Bade Mahadeo: It is a 60 feet long cave shelter with is also an open-air theatre for showing documentaries I have always wished to see this beautiful, rock paintings dating back to the period between 500 on wildlife. enchanting and captivating ville-lumière – 800 AD. The oldest painting here is said to be 10,000

Memoirs of a Backpacker Jata Shankar Cave: As per mythology, Lord Shiva had someday. At that time I was in Europe for my years old. Lord Shiva is enshrined here. According to sought shelter inside the cave due to ravages by demon thesis. A little more than 35 million tourists mythology, it was here that Lord Vishnu defeated Bhasmasura. There are 108 naturally formed shiva visited Paris in 2008, the Paris Visitors Bureau demon king Bhasmasur in the disguise of Mohini. This lingam inside this cave. There is a flow of water in a states, and I was one of them. I was there for shrine is popular among pilgrims and especially during stream like form known as ‘Gupt Ganga’ and no one only three days but came back with tons of Nag Panchami and Maha Shivaratri thousands of has ever seen the source of it till date. Thousands of memories, both good and bad. But the bottom- pilgrims come here to wash away their sins in the holy pilgrims come here every year. line remains, I love Paris; je l'aime toujours. pond inside the cave.

One of the highlights of my travel interest has Louvre Museum Chota Mahadeo: It is another sacred place in Pachmarhi been the fascination for solo trips. Travelling with with a narrow point with rocks overhanging a stream turbulences on the flight on way back from Paris to family is fun, but being alone on trips, gives you the and a spring. Water cascades down from here. It Marseille. Many passengers not excluding me thought chance to listen to your heart, get closer to the locals, presents a great view. that the RyanAir flight almost fell off to the sleep less and see more if you so wish, explore the Mediterranean Sea minutes before landing. Passengers unknown lanes and by-lanes on foot without worrying Pandav Caves: Yet another interesting place to visit in were crying and praying for safety. Never have my about people in the group staying together and losing Pachmarhi, these caves were carved out of sandstone. trips been filled with so many bad memories, but given out time finding your mates. It helps you in “getting As per legend, these caves gave shelter to the Pandavas a choice, I would again make that trip to the dream lost”. Packing my backpack with just enough clothing during their exile. They are situated on a hillock here. city, for the sheer pleasure of being there and for all and some ready snacks, laptop, camera and other little Out of the various caves, the ‘Draupadi Kuti’, which that happened in between these two events. necessities, the cheapest available tickets in pocket and was used by Draupadi is the most beautiful and clean setting out for backpacking, low-budget adventures I had got a cheap deal to Paris by RyanAir. A two way one. The cave used by Bhima, called the Bhim Kothri have always yielded me with real rich experiences. ticket from Marseille to Paris and back cost me only is the darkest one. Apart from the above, there are a host of other 17.99 euros (Rs 1,080 back then) including taxes. My attractions in Pachmarhi like the Sundar Kund, Catholic Paris, I thought, shouldn’t be an exception. But then, Satpura National Park: Established in 1981, this national friends were envious, but then, it was no luck; I was Church, Dhuandhar, Bhrant neer, Astachal, Harper’s despite being in one of the safest cities for women, I park spread across an area of 524 square kilometers is perennially on the look for best airfare deals. I have Cave, Chieftain’s Cave, Tridhara, Vanshree Vihar and had been stalked by a drunken man at 11.30 at night. located close to Pachmarhi. Here one finds sandstone skipped lectures of great professors to do justice to Reechhgarh. I had a narrow escape. But then this was only the start peaks, dense forest, narrow gorges and ravines. It has cheapest deals! One of the achievements of my student to the trip. The end was horrifying. There were great a very unique eco-system and is home to a wide variety Adventure sports: days! of animals including tigers, leopards, chinkaras, bisons, Pachmarhi is a great place for trekkers. There are many Before embarking on my trip, I had checked a bears, wild boars, wild dogs, black bucks, four-horned trekking tours available round the year. reliable weather forecast that said that Paris antelope, nilgai, cheetal and flying squirrels. This would be warm, no rains expected. At Marseille, national park is also home to diverse trees like teak, Best time to visit I was more than happy to visit the H&M store sal, bamboo, mahua and has many medicinal plants Pachmarhi can be visited all round the year. Summer, for some last minute shopping for light clothes and herbs. There are jeep safaris, elephant-back safaris winter and monsoon – all are great time to visit. a day before. I got white sweatpants too. At and boat safaries available here. For those who would How to reach Paris, I ended up being the worst dressed tourist like to walk around, guided walking safaris are also By Air: Bhopal is the nearest airport 195 km away. ever! It rained all through the first day and provided. Other neighbouring airports are Nagpur, Hyderabad chilly wind made the weather cold. My Christ Church: It was built by the British in 1875. It is and Pune sweatpants got stained with mud, my clothes architecturally interesting with a beautiful failed to keep me warm and my old umbrella, By Rail: Nearest rail station is Pipariya station of hemispherical dome inside. gave way and failed to protect me from rain. Mumbai-Howrah mainline. Pipariya is 47 km from I was wet, I was cold and I was dirty, but Paris Bison Lodge: Constructed in 1862, it is the oldest house Pachmarhi. was still beautiful! Sun, rain or mist, Paris is in Pachmarhi. Today it is a museum dedicated to By Road: Both public and private bus service are always full of charm. The second day, however, Captain Forsyth, the founder of Pachmarhi. Pictures, available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Pipariya, Hoshangbad was fairly sunny and warm. models, maps and graphs are on display here. There and Chhindwara. Taxis are available from Pipariya. Arched bridges over river Seine

64 57 Smell of the soil

the officers and he claimed to be with me. They believed I took an early bath. The breakfast served in the hostel him and thought we might have quarreled! They almost was not very appealing. But I was hungry and that dismissed the issue. But there was an African police gave me appetite. There was a long queue for breakfast

officer who seemed to be all ears. He believed my outside the dining hall, made more annoying by the Memoirs of a Backpacker narration and talked to his colleagues. Convincing presence of a big and noisy school students group from them took me about 20 minutes. I thought they would Spain. Well, I should not be complaining. We in India finally help me get to the hostel. Instead, they simply are used to queues and noise! told the stalker to go away and came back to inform As I came out of the hostel, what happened that metro me that he has left. I still had about 100 meters to walk. station Mairie de Clichy was only about 30 meters from I came out, the policemen went in and I ran to the my hostel gate, not even halfway to the police station! hostel in search of a safe bed. I realized that what happened the night before could It was not less than a horror story to me and the first have been avoided had I not confused between the experience in the city of my dreams. All the while that station names! I was running, I was dead scared, looking back every alternate second to make sure this guy was not following me. FestivalsFestivals That was not the end. More trouble awaited me that Anil Pradhan, Shillong night. I reached the hostel at 11.55 pm, 5 minutes before of Meghalaya its closure time only to know that my telephone call to book a bed was not registered. I had logged in to the hostel booking site less than 48 hours before my arrival Shad Suk Mynsiem or ‘Dance of the Joyous Heart’ is kind of graceful movement with downcast eyes to show in Paris and online bookings were already closed and held for three days in the month of April every year at their demureness with their arms by their sides, while calling them was the only option. The guy who had Weiking Field in Shillong, as well as in different parts the men prance around to exhibit their protection of answered my call and confirmed my booking for three of Ri Khasi (Land of the Khasis). The centenary the maidens. This circular movement also symbolises nights was on leave when I arrived. With my name not celebrations were held last year with much pomp and the whirlpool that was once a part of the nearby stream, in the register, the person at the desk very politely told gaiety by the Seng Khasis (indigenous faith of the the Umkhrah. At a distance, high on a platform, a me “I am sorry! I can’t help!” Online booking was Khasis). It is also known as the Weiking Dance. The group of musicians play traditional instruments. mandatory, he said, and one also needs to carry the dance is held to signify not just the The maidens dress is ornate with heavy silk ‘dharas’, booking confirmation number. I argued. After all it Shad Suk Mynsiem advent of spring but more to express mostly yellow in colour, and red sleeve length blouses was not my fault. I was given the impression that my man’s gratitude to God for His bounty and His with silver armbands. A silver crown is worn on the booking was confirmed! Finally, he called up the staff blessings, for peace, tranquillity, happiness and love head at the back of which there is usually an exotic on leave and came to know the truth. to reign over the world once again. It is a kind of light-yellow orchid representative of purity and beauty. Thanksgiving Dance. I was ultimately allotted a cozy bed in a little room A multitude of golden necklaces are also worn with with 4 bunk beds all of which were vacant. With the Amongst girls only the unmarried ones are allowed to the ‘paila’ (large gold and coral round nuggets) key in my hand I felt like a queen. Dinner was the last dance while the men folk occupying the place of pride thing in my mind. I fell asleep as soon as I was on the may be young or old, around their neck. The men bed. married or unmarried. The wear ‘dhotis’ with a black maidens dance alone or in sleeveless jacket and long silver I woke up early next morning and what happened the groups in the centre of a necklaces. They also carry a night before seemed only like a nightmare, unreal. I large circle formed by the decorated silver quiver with was in great spirits again ready to explore Paris men who go round and three arrows, signifying their incognito. I took a first view of the city from my window. round the circle waving commitment to protect their With a deep breath in the fresh air, I thought all the their white whisks. The womenfolk, their community bad parts were over; only good things could happen girls move in a shuffling and their land. to me now. Shad Suk Mynsiem Eiffel Tower

58 63 Memoirs of a Backpacker

Paris Srinjayee Aloka The Wangala Festival is celebrated by the Garos, the the district headquarters of West Garo Hills District The city of love, music, fashion and my dreams third major tribe of Meghalaya, as a tribute to the Sun and is known as ‘The Hundred Drums Festival’. God, Misi Saljong, also known as Pattigipa Ra'rongipa A three-day affair, the traditional ‘Rugalla’ is held on (The Great Giver) for a bountiful crop, usually in the RyanAir’s special shuttle bus transported us from Paris While traversing the Rue Martre towards the hostel, I the first day in the house of the Chief, the ‘Kakkat’ is month of November. The dance is an annual harvest Beauvais Airport to the RER (Regional train) station came across a few people hanging out here and there; performed on the second day, while on the third day, festivity to mark the end of their toiling in the fields Porte Maillot in Paris centre. At the helpdesk was a some of them passing comments. It was not alarming a competition is held for the best dancing troupe and as a preparation for the onset of winter. Since 1977, nice African guy who proudly claimed to be a big fan until a suspicious looking drunken guy started amongst the various teams which take part on the it is held at Asananggre, 17 kms before reaching Tura, of Bollywood films and Amitabh Bachchan! Cheerfully, following me. He came few steps closer and started occasion. Two parallel lines of men and Wangala Festival he extended his services. I bought a Paris map and on talking to me. He was of Indian subcontinent origin. women clad in his advice boarded RER C train and got down at Porte It made things worse. People thought he was actually their finery and with feathered de Clichy station in the 17th arrondissement where I with me! Starting from almost the beginning of the headgear, dancing with gay had a bed booked for 3 nights in a youth hostel. Here street, this guy stalked me till almost the end. He was abandon to the tune of music I should have actually taken metro line 13 train to the very desperate. Halfway down, I sought help from played on long oval-shaped next station Mairie de Clichy. But I got confused some guys playing around a corner in the street side. drums, gong and flutes, between the names and They directed me to the nearby punctuated by the resonant instead came out with the police station just about 30 music of a flute made of buffalo map in my hand, looking for meters from there. I ran to it. horn. the hostel. It was still 1.5 kms Quite annoyingly he ran after The entire festival is also away! me too! I managed to get in another way to preserve and despite him trying to stop me. It was past 11 at night. After promote the culture of Garos a long walk I finally reached I explained the matter to the and to showcase their distinct the Rue Martre. I thought I police officers in French. The identity. was almost there. But no! A stalker kept sitting outside the long walk still awaited. police station as I talked with RER Double-decker train in Paris Wangala

62 59 Snapshots

Shimla Railway starts from Kalka (via - Barog - At the Conoor station of the Nilgiris one must not miss Dharampore - Taksai – Gamma- Solan) and ends at the first engine used for Nilgiri mountain railway and Snapshots Shimla. The 96 km journey has 103 tunnels, 864 bridges the change of the steam engine to diesel engine at the and 900 bends. The Matheran Hill Railway starts from station for the remaining journey to Ooty. The steam Chugging through the Mountain Neral and goes to Matheran. The Kangra Valley Railway engine gives a nostalgic feeling of bygone days but is starts from Palampur (via Pathankot - Jawalamukhi - very noisy and polluting. Pratiti Moulik, Kolkata Kangra) to Joginder Nagar. Three of the mountain In the Kalka Shimla Railway, almost all the bridges are railways are on the Himalayas, one on the Nilgiris and arched gallery bridges constructed with stone masonry. The call of the mountains has enthralled men for Valley Railway. It is a huge attraction for the tourist one on the Western Ghats. The wooded mountains (fir, deodar, pine, oak, maple, generations and this enriching freshness of the journey and also works as transport by local masses. These slow moving train trips gives a rich experience chestnut, pear, cherry cardamom, bamboo and through it, brings back men again and again. And no The count of the mountain railways in India will of nature’s breath taking views of valleys, mountain eucalyptus groves), the barren rocks, tea gardens, small journey is complete without an experience of journey increase with the opening of the proposed Bhanupalli- terrain, flora and fauna, local people and their life. The streams, road crossings, old bungalows, prayer flags by train through it. In India, Darjeeling Himalayan Bilaspur-Mandi-Manali-Leh Railway Project which is loops, hairpin bends, bridges and tunnels make one and magnificent view of snow capped mountains at a Railway, Nilgiri Mountain Railway and Kalka Shimla expected to become the highest railway track in the realize and appreciate the engineering work done to distance makes a memory to cherish for, and makes

world. Tanglang la station will become highest railway create these mountain railways, and even to maintain one return again and experience and explore something Railway have been declared as World Heritage Sites station in the world at 5359 m above the sea level the same. The climate, topography, flora and fauna new each time. The changing melody of the chug will by UNESCO in 1999, 2005 and 2008 respectively. These overtaking the current record of Tanggula Railway change gradually along the way. Nature’s unlimited remind you of the old song ‘The Happy Wanderer’ as mountain railways were set up by the British and are Station at 5068m in China. Not only the time taken to bounty and wildness, vastness of the valley, deepness you chug down to the plains - “I love to go a wandering still operational and well maintained. Apart from these reach Leh by road will decrease and prospects of of the cleavages, and magnificence of the cliffs, along the mountain track, And as I go I love to sing, there are two others, Matheran Hill Railway and Kangra tourism will increase, but it also has strategic importance mountain shadow and misty clouds are definite to My Knapsack on my back ..Val-deri .. Val – as Leh remains cut off for six months every create lasting impression on the traveler. dera ” year because of bad weather. The ‘Toy train’ of Darjeeling goes along side The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway starts the Hill Cart Road. The loops and Z reverses from New Jalpaiguri (via - Tindharia - Sukna are indigenous engineering marvels that - Rangtong - Chunbati - Ghum ) and ends eased out the steep climb. Ghum station in at Darjeeling, a journey of 44 km. It has 5 the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is highest ‘Z’ reverses, 3 loops 5 major bridges, 498 railway station in India at 7407ft. After Ghum, minor bridges and 177 unmanned level the train descends to Darjeeling after crossing crossings. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway the spectacular double loop of Batasia with starts from Mettupalayam (via Coonor) and Mount Kanchenjunga in the background. In ends at Ooty. The 46 km journey has 204 spring, the flowering rhododendrons and bents 16 tunnels and 250 bridges. The Kalka magnolia flowers add to the ambience.

60 61 Snapshots

Shimla Railway starts from Kalka (via - Barog - At the Conoor station of the Nilgiris one must not miss Dharampore - Taksai – Gamma- Solan) and ends at the first engine used for Nilgiri mountain railway and Snapshots Shimla. The 96 km journey has 103 tunnels, 864 bridges the change of the steam engine to diesel engine at the and 900 bends. The Matheran Hill Railway starts from station for the remaining journey to Ooty. The steam Chugging through the Mountain Neral and goes to Matheran. The Kangra Valley Railway engine gives a nostalgic feeling of bygone days but is starts from Palampur (via Pathankot - Jawalamukhi - very noisy and polluting. Pratiti Moulik, Kolkata Kangra) to Joginder Nagar. Three of the mountain In the Kalka Shimla Railway, almost all the bridges are railways are on the Himalayas, one on the Nilgiris and arched gallery bridges constructed with stone masonry. The call of the mountains has enthralled men for Valley Railway. It is a huge attraction for the tourist one on the Western Ghats. The wooded mountains (fir, deodar, pine, oak, maple, generations and this enriching freshness of the journey and also works as transport by local masses. These slow moving train trips gives a rich experience chestnut, pear, cherry cardamom, bamboo and through it, brings back men again and again. And no The count of the mountain railways in India will of nature’s breath taking views of valleys, mountain eucalyptus groves), the barren rocks, tea gardens, small journey is complete without an experience of journey increase with the opening of the proposed Bhanupalli- terrain, flora and fauna, local people and their life. The streams, road crossings, old bungalows, prayer flags by train through it. In India, Darjeeling Himalayan Bilaspur-Mandi-Manali-Leh Railway Project which is loops, hairpin bends, bridges and tunnels make one and magnificent view of snow capped mountains at a Railway, Nilgiri Mountain Railway and Kalka Shimla expected to become the highest railway track in the realize and appreciate the engineering work done to distance makes a memory to cherish for, and makes

world. Tanglang la station will become highest railway create these mountain railways, and even to maintain one return again and experience and explore something Railway have been declared as World Heritage Sites station in the world at 5359 m above the sea level the same. The climate, topography, flora and fauna new each time. The changing melody of the chug will by UNESCO in 1999, 2005 and 2008 respectively. These overtaking the current record of Tanggula Railway change gradually along the way. Nature’s unlimited remind you of the old song ‘The Happy Wanderer’ as mountain railways were set up by the British and are Station at 5068m in China. Not only the time taken to bounty and wildness, vastness of the valley, deepness you chug down to the plains - “I love to go a wandering still operational and well maintained. Apart from these reach Leh by road will decrease and prospects of of the cleavages, and magnificence of the cliffs, along the mountain track, And as I go I love to sing, there are two others, Matheran Hill Railway and Kangra tourism will increase, but it also has strategic importance mountain shadow and misty clouds are definite to My Knapsack on my back ..Val-deri .. Val – as Leh remains cut off for six months every create lasting impression on the traveler. dera ” year because of bad weather. The ‘Toy train’ of Darjeeling goes along side The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway starts the Hill Cart Road. The loops and Z reverses from New Jalpaiguri (via - Tindharia - Sukna are indigenous engineering marvels that - Rangtong - Chunbati - Ghum ) and ends eased out the steep climb. Ghum station in at Darjeeling, a journey of 44 km. It has 5 the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is highest ‘Z’ reverses, 3 loops 5 major bridges, 498 railway station in India at 7407ft. After Ghum, minor bridges and 177 unmanned level the train descends to Darjeeling after crossing crossings. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway the spectacular double loop of Batasia with starts from Mettupalayam (via Coonor) and Mount Kanchenjunga in the background. In ends at Ooty. The 46 km journey has 204 spring, the flowering rhododendrons and bents 16 tunnels and 250 bridges. The Kalka magnolia flowers add to the ambience.

60 61 Memoirs of a Backpacker

Paris Srinjayee Aloka The Wangala Festival is celebrated by the Garos, the the district headquarters of West Garo Hills District The city of love, music, fashion and my dreams third major tribe of Meghalaya, as a tribute to the Sun and is known as ‘The Hundred Drums Festival’. God, Misi Saljong, also known as Pattigipa Ra'rongipa A three-day affair, the traditional ‘Rugalla’ is held on (The Great Giver) for a bountiful crop, usually in the RyanAir’s special shuttle bus transported us from Paris While traversing the Rue Martre towards the hostel, I the first day in the house of the Chief, the ‘Kakkat’ is month of November. The dance is an annual harvest Beauvais Airport to the RER (Regional train) station came across a few people hanging out here and there; performed on the second day, while on the third day, festivity to mark the end of their toiling in the fields Porte Maillot in Paris centre. At the helpdesk was a some of them passing comments. It was not alarming a competition is held for the best dancing troupe and as a preparation for the onset of winter. Since 1977, nice African guy who proudly claimed to be a big fan until a suspicious looking drunken guy started amongst the various teams which take part on the it is held at Asananggre, 17 kms before reaching Tura, of Bollywood films and Amitabh Bachchan! Cheerfully, following me. He came few steps closer and started occasion. Two parallel lines of men and Wangala Festival he extended his services. I bought a Paris map and on talking to me. He was of Indian subcontinent origin. women clad in his advice boarded RER C train and got down at Porte It made things worse. People thought he was actually their finery and with feathered de Clichy station in the 17th arrondissement where I with me! Starting from almost the beginning of the headgear, dancing with gay had a bed booked for 3 nights in a youth hostel. Here street, this guy stalked me till almost the end. He was abandon to the tune of music I should have actually taken metro line 13 train to the very desperate. Halfway down, I sought help from played on long oval-shaped next station Mairie de Clichy. But I got confused some guys playing around a corner in the street side. drums, gong and flutes, between the names and They directed me to the nearby punctuated by the resonant instead came out with the police station just about 30 music of a flute made of buffalo map in my hand, looking for meters from there. I ran to it. horn. the hostel. It was still 1.5 kms Quite annoyingly he ran after The entire festival is also away! me too! I managed to get in another way to preserve and despite him trying to stop me. It was past 11 at night. After promote the culture of Garos a long walk I finally reached I explained the matter to the and to showcase their distinct the Rue Martre. I thought I police officers in French. The identity. was almost there. But no! A stalker kept sitting outside the long walk still awaited. police station as I talked with RER Double-decker train in Paris Wangala

62 59 Smell of the soil

the officers and he claimed to be with me. They believed I took an early bath. The breakfast served in the hostel him and thought we might have quarreled! They almost was not very appealing. But I was hungry and that dismissed the issue. But there was an African police gave me appetite. There was a long queue for breakfast

officer who seemed to be all ears. He believed my outside the dining hall, made more annoying by the Memoirs of a Backpacker narration and talked to his colleagues. Convincing presence of a big and noisy school students group from them took me about 20 minutes. I thought they would Spain. Well, I should not be complaining. We in India finally help me get to the hostel. Instead, they simply are used to queues and noise! told the stalker to go away and came back to inform As I came out of the hostel, what happened that metro me that he has left. I still had about 100 meters to walk. station Mairie de Clichy was only about 30 meters from I came out, the policemen went in and I ran to the my hostel gate, not even halfway to the police station! hostel in search of a safe bed. I realized that what happened the night before could It was not less than a horror story to me and the first have been avoided had I not confused between the experience in the city of my dreams. All the while that station names! I was running, I was dead scared, looking back every alternate second to make sure this guy was not following me. FestivalsFestivals That was not the end. More trouble awaited me that Anil Pradhan, Shillong night. I reached the hostel at 11.55 pm, 5 minutes before of Meghalaya its closure time only to know that my telephone call to book a bed was not registered. I had logged in to the hostel booking site less than 48 hours before my arrival Shad Suk Mynsiem or ‘Dance of the Joyous Heart’ is kind of graceful movement with downcast eyes to show in Paris and online bookings were already closed and held for three days in the month of April every year at their demureness with their arms by their sides, while calling them was the only option. The guy who had Weiking Field in Shillong, as well as in different parts the men prance around to exhibit their protection of answered my call and confirmed my booking for three of Ri Khasi (Land of the Khasis). The centenary the maidens. This circular movement also symbolises nights was on leave when I arrived. With my name not celebrations were held last year with much pomp and the whirlpool that was once a part of the nearby stream, in the register, the person at the desk very politely told gaiety by the Seng Khasis (indigenous faith of the the Umkhrah. At a distance, high on a platform, a me “I am sorry! I can’t help!” Online booking was Khasis). It is also known as the Weiking Dance. The group of musicians play traditional instruments. mandatory, he said, and one also needs to carry the dance is held to signify not just the The maidens dress is ornate with heavy silk ‘dharas’, booking confirmation number. I argued. After all it Shad Suk Mynsiem advent of spring but more to express mostly yellow in colour, and red sleeve length blouses was not my fault. I was given the impression that my man’s gratitude to God for His bounty and His with silver armbands. A silver crown is worn on the booking was confirmed! Finally, he called up the staff blessings, for peace, tranquillity, happiness and love head at the back of which there is usually an exotic on leave and came to know the truth. to reign over the world once again. It is a kind of light-yellow orchid representative of purity and beauty. Thanksgiving Dance. I was ultimately allotted a cozy bed in a little room A multitude of golden necklaces are also worn with with 4 bunk beds all of which were vacant. With the Amongst girls only the unmarried ones are allowed to the ‘paila’ (large gold and coral round nuggets) key in my hand I felt like a queen. Dinner was the last dance while the men folk occupying the place of pride thing in my mind. I fell asleep as soon as I was on the may be young or old, around their neck. The men bed. married or unmarried. The wear ‘dhotis’ with a black maidens dance alone or in sleeveless jacket and long silver I woke up early next morning and what happened the groups in the centre of a necklaces. They also carry a night before seemed only like a nightmare, unreal. I large circle formed by the decorated silver quiver with was in great spirits again ready to explore Paris men who go round and three arrows, signifying their incognito. I took a first view of the city from my window. round the circle waving commitment to protect their With a deep breath in the fresh air, I thought all the their white whisks. The womenfolk, their community bad parts were over; only good things could happen girls move in a shuffling and their land. to me now. Shad Suk Mynsiem Eiffel Tower

58 63 Paris has eternally been the city of my dreams. Bade Mahadeo: It is a 60 feet long cave shelter with is also an open-air theatre for showing documentaries I have always wished to see this beautiful, rock paintings dating back to the period between 500 on wildlife. enchanting and captivating ville-lumière – 800 AD. The oldest painting here is said to be 10,000

Memoirs of a Backpacker Jata Shankar Cave: As per mythology, Lord Shiva had someday. At that time I was in Europe for my years old. Lord Shiva is enshrined here. According to sought shelter inside the cave due to ravages by demon thesis. A little more than 35 million tourists mythology, it was here that Lord Vishnu defeated Bhasmasura. There are 108 naturally formed shiva visited Paris in 2008, the Paris Visitors Bureau demon king Bhasmasur in the disguise of Mohini. This lingam inside this cave. There is a flow of water in a states, and I was one of them. I was there for shrine is popular among pilgrims and especially during stream like form known as ‘Gupt Ganga’ and no one only three days but came back with tons of Nag Panchami and Maha Shivaratri thousands of has ever seen the source of it till date. Thousands of memories, both good and bad. But the bottom- pilgrims come here to wash away their sins in the holy pilgrims come here every year. line remains, I love Paris; je l'aime toujours. pond inside the cave.

One of the highlights of my travel interest has Louvre Museum Chota Mahadeo: It is another sacred place in Pachmarhi been the fascination for solo trips. Travelling with with a narrow point with rocks overhanging a stream turbulences on the flight on way back from Paris to family is fun, but being alone on trips, gives you the and a spring. Water cascades down from here. It Marseille. Many passengers not excluding me thought chance to listen to your heart, get closer to the locals, presents a great view. that the RyanAir flight almost fell off to the sleep less and see more if you so wish, explore the Mediterranean Sea minutes before landing. Passengers unknown lanes and by-lanes on foot without worrying Pandav Caves: Yet another interesting place to visit in were crying and praying for safety. Never have my about people in the group staying together and losing Pachmarhi, these caves were carved out of sandstone. trips been filled with so many bad memories, but given out time finding your mates. It helps you in “getting As per legend, these caves gave shelter to the Pandavas a choice, I would again make that trip to the dream lost”. Packing my backpack with just enough clothing during their exile. They are situated on a hillock here. city, for the sheer pleasure of being there and for all and some ready snacks, laptop, camera and other little Out of the various caves, the ‘Draupadi Kuti’, which that happened in between these two events. necessities, the cheapest available tickets in pocket and was used by Draupadi is the most beautiful and clean setting out for backpacking, low-budget adventures I had got a cheap deal to Paris by RyanAir. A two way one. The cave used by Bhima, called the Bhim Kothri have always yielded me with real rich experiences. ticket from Marseille to Paris and back cost me only is the darkest one. Apart from the above, there are a host of other 17.99 euros (Rs 1,080 back then) including taxes. My attractions in Pachmarhi like the Sundar Kund, Catholic Paris, I thought, shouldn’t be an exception. But then, Satpura National Park: Established in 1981, this national friends were envious, but then, it was no luck; I was Church, Dhuandhar, Bhrant neer, Astachal, Harper’s despite being in one of the safest cities for women, I park spread across an area of 524 square kilometers is perennially on the look for best airfare deals. I have Cave, Chieftain’s Cave, Tridhara, Vanshree Vihar and had been stalked by a drunken man at 11.30 at night. located close to Pachmarhi. Here one finds sandstone skipped lectures of great professors to do justice to Reechhgarh. I had a narrow escape. But then this was only the start peaks, dense forest, narrow gorges and ravines. It has cheapest deals! One of the achievements of my student to the trip. The end was horrifying. There were great a very unique eco-system and is home to a wide variety Adventure sports: days! of animals including tigers, leopards, chinkaras, bisons, Pachmarhi is a great place for trekkers. There are many Before embarking on my trip, I had checked a bears, wild boars, wild dogs, black bucks, four-horned trekking tours available round the year. reliable weather forecast that said that Paris antelope, nilgai, cheetal and flying squirrels. This would be warm, no rains expected. At Marseille, national park is also home to diverse trees like teak, Best time to visit I was more than happy to visit the H&M store sal, bamboo, mahua and has many medicinal plants Pachmarhi can be visited all round the year. Summer, for some last minute shopping for light clothes and herbs. There are jeep safaris, elephant-back safaris winter and monsoon – all are great time to visit. a day before. I got white sweatpants too. At and boat safaries available here. For those who would How to reach Paris, I ended up being the worst dressed tourist like to walk around, guided walking safaris are also By Air: Bhopal is the nearest airport 195 km away. ever! It rained all through the first day and provided. Other neighbouring airports are Nagpur, Hyderabad chilly wind made the weather cold. My Christ Church: It was built by the British in 1875. It is and Pune sweatpants got stained with mud, my clothes architecturally interesting with a beautiful failed to keep me warm and my old umbrella, By Rail: Nearest rail station is Pipariya station of hemispherical dome inside. gave way and failed to protect me from rain. Mumbai-Howrah mainline. Pipariya is 47 km from I was wet, I was cold and I was dirty, but Paris Bison Lodge: Constructed in 1862, it is the oldest house Pachmarhi. was still beautiful! Sun, rain or mist, Paris is in Pachmarhi. Today it is a museum dedicated to By Road: Both public and private bus service are always full of charm. The second day, however, Captain Forsyth, the founder of Pachmarhi. Pictures, available from Bhopal, Nagpur, Pipariya, Hoshangbad was fairly sunny and warm. models, maps and graphs are on display here. There and Chhindwara. Taxis are available from Pipariya. Arched bridges over river Seine

64 57 Paris has some of the best monuments and tourist Travel & Tourism attractions that I have grown up hearing about. I was very excited. As I landed my feet on the Winston Churchill avenue, I was greeted with the elegant statue Memoirs of a Backpacker News of French hero Charles de Gaulle. What struck me was the breathtaking beauty of the greenery around. Parks, gardens and roadsides were greener than green. It was spring and Paris was in its best splendour.

I started with the Grand Palais (Big Palace) and the Touriosity Travelmag will be launched at the Oxford Bookstore, Park Street, Kolkata on Petit Palais (Small Palace). Both are imposing structures Beautiful sculpture on arched bridges 25th of May 2012. Hon’ble Minister of Tourism, Government of West Bengal, Shri Rachhpal housing museums and architecturally beautiful. The seemed to be glowing more as I stepped on the arch Singh has agreed to be present as the Guest of Honour and Shri Tapas Roy, MLA has agreed former houses a huge collection of paintings and bridge. With its beautiful sculptures, lamps, nymphs to be the Chief Guest for the evening. sculptures and the latter houses the National gallery and bright gold polish at places, the bridge soaked of fine art collection and a science museum. There are fresh in the rain water looked majestic. The Seine flowed many other tourist attractions lying close by to these beneath in all its splendour. palaces including l’Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysees, Pont Alexander III, Palais Bourbon - the French National While taking pictures of the bridge, a group of three Tourism Ministry in India is popularizing Rural Tourism Scheme for showcasing the rural Assembly building, Place de la Concorde, Jardin de middle-aged women passed me by. They stopped a lifestyle, art and culture. The aim is to boost up the socio-economic condition of rural people. At Tuileries (Tuileries garden) and the Louvre Museum. meter away. Looking around, one of them said present, as many as 74 rural tourism development projects are being implemented in various parts All are within walk-able distances. ‘Bonjour!’ in an English tone. I said ‘Hello’. One of the of India. It involves development of infrastructure and creation of facilities for promotion of rural ladies asked, “Are you travelling alone?” I said “Yes.” tourism. Suggestions for providing incentives to government employees to undertake visits on Leave As I passed by the two palaces and reached the beautiful She was surprised and looking at her companions Travel Allowance to rural tourist attractions are being considered. Pont Alexandre III, a beautiful arch bridge over the added with eyes wide open, “We would never do that!” river Seine, all of a sudden a heavy downpour started. I said “Why not? Travelling solo is fun!” Still amazed I took out my umbrella and it soon gave way. I got wet. they smiled. Those three British women were nice for Five minutes later, the rain stopped. By then, the a little talk. We chatted while crossing the bridge after surroundings were totally soaked in water. The city Shri Amarnath Yatra 2012 registrations started from 7th May 2012. This year Amarnath Yatra which our paths diverted. I was on my way to the Place shall commence simultaneously, along both the Baltal and the Chandanwari routes, on 25th June and de la Concorde and they went for the Eiffel tower. culminate on Raksha Bandhan, the 2nd August 2012. The interested Yatris can reserve their heli-seats On my way, I had to cross the bridge Pont de la through the web based on-line Reservation System, by logging on to the Shrine Board’s website. Concorde. There on Quai d’Orsay street I could see the French National Assembly building just opposite to the bridge. Buses stopped by every minute right in front of the Assembly building which was only few meters away from the roadside. The road was crowded. Travel & Tourism Fair (TTF) is the leading fair and exhibition for the travel and tourism industry I stood there for a while staring at the Palais Bourbon since the last two decades in India. Every year this fair is organized in the major cities across the (the National Assembly building) and realizing that country to help organisations in this industry to showcase their travel deals and tour packages and such thing could possibly never be imagined in my other travel products to commercial and retail customers. This year the upcoming fairs are: country. A bus stop and crowded traffic signal in front July 13 - 15, 2012, Netaji Indoor Stadium, Kolkata; July 20 - 22, 2012, Hyderabad; August 24 - 26, 2012, of Rashtrapati Bhawan or the Parliament house is Ahmedabad; August 31 - September 2, Surat; September 7 - 9, 2012, Mumbai; and September 14 - 16, beyond possibility. 2012, Pune. In this area, I came across a tricky method of begging by a group of people. As I walked along holding the city map on my hands looking for my way to the next tourist destination, a lady, aged around 45 approached

Place de Concorde

72 65 the rain and taking photos. Everybody was curious, so was I. Later I learnt that these newly-wed couples from China were in Paris to take their wedding pictures! In the rain their beautiful wedding gowns were getting soiled, but they seemed lost in their photo shoots. Quite an unusual memory from the city! Later I came across a similar incident during my Barcelona trip as well.

A visit to the Jardin de Tuileries left me speechless. It was so green! One of the most beautifully designed gardens of Paris it was designed by Andre le Nôtre as a royal pleasure garden with fruits and flowers for Catherine de Medici. It was opened to the public later on after changes were made. Further walk down the jardin led me to the famous Louvre museum.

The Musée du Louvre needs no introduction. It houses Louvre Museum some of the world's most renowned art collections complex me. Showing me a golden ring held between her fingers, she asked me in broken English “ this gold ring including Monalisa by Leonardo da Vinci. It houses A great view at Sandakphu yours?” I replied “No”. “ must be your luck” she said works of art created before 1848. Being in one of the Gurudongmar and added “I not greedy; you must have it”. I was still most visited destinations of the world seemed like a confused. She forced the ring into my hand and walked dream come true! In the Louvre complex, I also came away. Moments later she returned to ask me for a across the shooting of a Russian film. sandwich and a coke. Now I knew that it was a trick The Eiffel Tower dominates the skyline of Paris and and returned the ring to her. Tourists, who believe her, one can see it almost from every corner of the city. I pay her for the food and coke out of generosity! Those was lucky to have seen it at day, dusk and night and who do not take the ring at all are not trapped. Quite under sun, rain and mist. It is a masterpiece and looks View at Mayali Pass funny! But the streets of Paris are full of strange especially beautiful at night when thousands of lights experiences. Many tourists fall prey to them. glitter on it. On one side of the tower is a huge garden The crazy downpour continued for rest of the day with always crowded with tourists and on the other face is breaks from time to time. My white sneakers and lower the busy street. The view of Paris from up the tower is half of my sweatpants were almost brown by now. I truly overwhelming. reached the Place de la Concorde soon. I came across Across the Seine on the opposite bank is Palais de a bizarre thing. There were 32 Chinese couples in their Chaillot. I discovered a resplendent view of the majestic wedding attires running about the area, getting wet in tower from here. There are beautiful golden statues on the terrace of the palace facing the tower. Here I came Trekking in Sandakphu across a group of Bengali tourists busy in a heated discussion. The issue of taking pictures of the tower had given rise to the argument.

Earlier that day, from the metro station I had purchased Kashmir a day ticket for Euro 5.60 that allowed me innumerable rides in metros, RER trains and buses during the day. I made good use of the day ticket from time to time just to wander about the city in buses looking at the Local people at Sandakphu panorama and the beautiful high rises. I allowed myself to get lost in the city taking unknown buses, moving Chinese couples

66 visit to Notre-Dame de Paris was meeting a European lady finely clad in a saree. Her companions were in rather Parisian attire and naturally it attracted my

attention. I complimented her looks and she was happy Memoirs of a Backpacker Photo Feature as a child. Abhinandan Bhaduri My unusual encounters in Paris were endless. At Hôtel des Invalides I came across a friendly guard. Built by Louis XIV in late 17th century as a hospital for France's homeless veterans, the Hôtel des Invalides has been Shooting of a Russian film converted into an arms museum displaying the exploits through unknown boulevards and lanes and looking at things that I would have otherwise missed. For once I did not consult the map. It was fun! I did a lot of window shopping too at the innumerable showrooms, stores and galleries on both sides of the grand boulevard of Champs-Élysées.

The Arc de Triomphe (Victory tower) stands in the middle of the crossing of 12 streets one of them being Mayali Pass the Champs Elysees, eternally busy with tourists and locals alike. It is a tribute to the heroes who fought for France and for Napoleon and their names are engraved on its walls. There is a tomb of the Unknown A view of Mount Shivling from Tapovan Cruise on the Seine in Uttarakhand Soldier with an eternal flame beneath the arc. I am told by French army under Napoleon Bonaparte to that that the India Gate at New Delhi was inspired by this under Charles de Gaulle and those during the World architecture. War II. The Tomb of Napoleon and a few display items of the late emperor, like his suit, throne etc. are inside View of villages at Mayali Pass A cruise on the Seine, a big time tourist attraction, was the Dome Church here. The interiors of the Church a pleasant experience. It presented glimpses of with paintings in frescoes, artistic sculpture and numerous Paris monuments. During the cruise, I came picturesque ceilings left me completely mesmerized. across the Statue of liberty at Paris. Yes the Statue of The golden glow inside was captivating. Liberty! The original one at New York created by Bartholdi and gifted by France to the US is huge in I had lost my ticket that allowed entry to both the Dome size. The miniature replica of this statue in Paris stands Church and the museum. I was almost on the grand close to Pont de Grenelle on a manmade island in the door leading to the Church when I discovered that the river. It was presented to the city by the Parisian ticket was gone. I realised I won’t be able to go inside. community of the USA. It made no sense giving A local resident - Mayali Pass excuses to the guard and Ever since I had read 'The he was under no Hunchback of Notre Dame' obligation to believe. I by Victor Hugo as a child, it decided to come back and Sandakphu has been in my imagination. rather go exploring This Gothic Church is well something else. As I known for its structure and turned back, the friendly size. Interiors of the Church guard called me and were fascinating. One very asked me in French Camp at Mayali Pass pleasant memory from my “Qu'est qui s'est passé?” Town Hall, Paris

67 sipping onto a tasse de thé 3 euros. The bouquinistes along the banks of river Seine My white sweatpants were a real mismatch in Paris. whenever I got the chance. offered good bargains for books. Apart from expensive Not only because they got soiled in the rain, but also Exploring the innumerable parks shops good Bordeaux wines were also available in because, in Paris, the fashion capital of the world, white

and gardens, soaking up in the sun plenty at Monoprix, Carrefour etc. as a colour of clothing is rarely in sight. Black is Memoirs of a Backpacker or rain, whatever came in the way everywhere and if at all there is a variation, that would Eating in Paris was great too. I did try the crêpe Nutella or simply walking around in a be one of the darker shades of blue or brown or grey. at a creperie and loved it. For some teas or coffee, there charming neighborhood and Lighter colours are rather not en vogue. To add to the are 'Salons de Thé' and cafés across the city with varieties meeting great people, I made best bizarre look, my T-shirts were lemon yellow! of teas and coffees to choose from. For a gourmet like use of my time. Just being able to me, Paris was a paradise. Restaurants were everywhere Notwithstanding anything the Couture designers might walk the city and drop into a café with wide varieties of great meals, hot plat du jour and wish, French women prefer tight skirts most to trousers from time to time was a great other delicacies. Nothing like combining them with or any other variation of attire. A scarf is almost a must! pleasure. some good French wine! I did cook my dinner once at Every woman wears one; whether around the neck or There are cafes, bistros, bars and the hostel too. Like many youth hostels they had a hair or waist or wrist restaurants in every corner of Paris. decent kitchen and a few dining tables where I relished – they carry them I tried Le Chocolat Chaud (Hot my charcuterie dish over friendly conversation with equally well. The Chocolate). Extremely thick and travelers from across the world. And in Paris, there can Hermes showroom rich in taste and calories, it was never be dearth of topics. even has specialists to served in a cup with whipped teach visitors the A trip to Paris is incomplete without a visit to a fashion cream on top. artistic ways of show. I was on a tight budget. I chose to visit the Friday wearing a scarf. From my very first encounter I had ‘free’ fashion show at Galeries Lafayette. It lasted for Women are always learnt that in France, it is important half an hour in the afternoon. It had an English L'Arc de Triomphe neatly dressed up, (What happened?) I replied “J'ai perdu mon billets”. to try and speak the local language. They love to hear commentary with great music. Truly a great experience! even if just visiting a He then came forward and told me that I still could go a Bonjour (hello), s'il vous plait (please), oui (yes), non Galeries Lafayette is a shopping heaven with 10 floors grocery. Given a in. A conversation transpired between me and this guy (no), ça va (OK), merci (thank you) and au revoir (good dedicated to clothing, accessories and jewelry. A look choice between chic named Marceau. I came to know that he was born and bye) even if one knows nothing beyond that. After up at the well decorated dome across the many floors and comfy shoes, they grew up in Pondicherry. After finishing his schools he exhausting these vocabularies one can always start inside was overwhelming. Dome of the would go for the former and it is not rare to see women migrated to Paris and has been working there ever with parlez-vous anglais? (Do you speak English?) Hôtel des Invalides in stilettos with jeans. They dress with style and with since. He proudly took a photo with me in his mobile Being a first time visitor to Paris in spring time, I was such a shabby look, I was the most out of place. to show his wife. Not only this, he also called up in for the best natural landscapes that the city has to On my maiden visit to Paris I was alone. I was there Dominique, another guy from Pondicherry and a guard offer. The horse chestnut trees around Champs-Elysees for short time but I had no tight schedule, no agenda at the Museé d’Armes and asked him to let me in and Eiffel tower were in full bloom; people were happy, or itinerary. It was just me and the city. With a pre- without tickets. And I enjoyed a visit to both these beautiful flowers blossoming across various gardens planned itinerary, and in the rush to see ‘everything’, attractions in Paris without a ticket! and parks. The bad side was the capricious weather, people end up seeing nothing. My only agenda was to The French people love fun sometimes warm while explore and discover Paris. Even today, memories of and enjoyment. Paris is like sometimes rainy and cold. those three days I spent wandering about the streets an ongoing carnival. With numerous options to of Paris alone like a flaneur brighten me up. It is the Whichever time of the year choose from souvenir hunting in most romantic city in the world, but I found it a you visit, Parisians are Paris was fun. I shopped for a lot wonderful place to enjoy all on my own. Absence of a always making merry. The of cheese at Monoprix. Delicious companion did not bother me; the most beautiful city joie de vivre of Parisians is chocolates created by master on earth was all mine to romance with. On metros, evident from street scenes chocolatiers were available in subways and cafés I came across musicians playing and I got infected soon. I innumerable boutiques across accordions and singing. Everything in Paris is like a spent hours watching the Paris. For those on budget, there piece of art. There are tributes to love and romance all street activities while were chocolate bars for as low as Arms museum over the city. Inside Hôtel des Invalides

68 69 sipping onto a tasse de thé 3 euros. The bouquinistes along the banks of river Seine My white sweatpants were a real mismatch in Paris. whenever I got the chance. offered good bargains for books. Apart from expensive Not only because they got soiled in the rain, but also Exploring the innumerable parks shops good Bordeaux wines were also available in because, in Paris, the fashion capital of the world, white

and gardens, soaking up in the sun plenty at Monoprix, Carrefour etc. as a colour of clothing is rarely in sight. Black is Memoirs of a Backpacker or rain, whatever came in the way everywhere and if at all there is a variation, that would Eating in Paris was great too. I did try the crêpe Nutella or simply walking around in a be one of the darker shades of blue or brown or grey. at a creperie and loved it. For some teas or coffee, there charming neighborhood and Lighter colours are rather not en vogue. To add to the are 'Salons de Thé' and cafés across the city with varieties meeting great people, I made best bizarre look, my T-shirts were lemon yellow! of teas and coffees to choose from. For a gourmet like use of my time. Just being able to me, Paris was a paradise. Restaurants were everywhere Notwithstanding anything the Couture designers might walk the city and drop into a café with wide varieties of great meals, hot plat du jour and wish, French women prefer tight skirts most to trousers from time to time was a great other delicacies. Nothing like combining them with or any other variation of attire. A scarf is almost a must! pleasure. some good French wine! I did cook my dinner once at Every woman wears one; whether around the neck or There are cafes, bistros, bars and the hostel too. Like many youth hostels they had a hair or waist or wrist restaurants in every corner of Paris. decent kitchen and a few dining tables where I relished – they carry them I tried Le Chocolat Chaud (Hot my charcuterie dish over friendly conversation with equally well. The Chocolate). Extremely thick and travelers from across the world. And in Paris, there can Hermes showroom rich in taste and calories, it was never be dearth of topics. even has specialists to served in a cup with whipped teach visitors the A trip to Paris is incomplete without a visit to a fashion cream on top. artistic ways of show. I was on a tight budget. I chose to visit the Friday wearing a scarf. From my very first encounter I had ‘free’ fashion show at Galeries Lafayette. It lasted for Women are always learnt that in France, it is important half an hour in the afternoon. It had an English L'Arc de Triomphe neatly dressed up, (What happened?) I replied “J'ai perdu mon billets”. to try and speak the local language. They love to hear commentary with great music. Truly a great experience! even if just visiting a He then came forward and told me that I still could go a Bonjour (hello), s'il vous plait (please), oui (yes), non Galeries Lafayette is a shopping heaven with 10 floors grocery. Given a in. A conversation transpired between me and this guy (no), ça va (OK), merci (thank you) and au revoir (good dedicated to clothing, accessories and jewelry. A look choice between chic named Marceau. I came to know that he was born and bye) even if one knows nothing beyond that. After up at the well decorated dome across the many floors and comfy shoes, they grew up in Pondicherry. After finishing his schools he exhausting these vocabularies one can always start inside was overwhelming. Dome of the would go for the former and it is not rare to see women migrated to Paris and has been working there ever with parlez-vous anglais? (Do you speak English?) Hôtel des Invalides in stilettos with jeans. They dress with style and with since. He proudly took a photo with me in his mobile Being a first time visitor to Paris in spring time, I was such a shabby look, I was the most out of place. to show his wife. Not only this, he also called up in for the best natural landscapes that the city has to On my maiden visit to Paris I was alone. I was there Dominique, another guy from Pondicherry and a guard offer. The horse chestnut trees around Champs-Elysees for short time but I had no tight schedule, no agenda at the Museé d’Armes and asked him to let me in and Eiffel tower were in full bloom; people were happy, or itinerary. It was just me and the city. With a pre- without tickets. And I enjoyed a visit to both these beautiful flowers blossoming across various gardens planned itinerary, and in the rush to see ‘everything’, attractions in Paris without a ticket! and parks. The bad side was the capricious weather, people end up seeing nothing. My only agenda was to The French people love fun sometimes warm while explore and discover Paris. Even today, memories of and enjoyment. Paris is like sometimes rainy and cold. those three days I spent wandering about the streets an ongoing carnival. With numerous options to of Paris alone like a flaneur brighten me up. It is the Whichever time of the year choose from souvenir hunting in most romantic city in the world, but I found it a you visit, Parisians are Paris was fun. I shopped for a lot wonderful place to enjoy all on my own. Absence of a always making merry. The of cheese at Monoprix. Delicious companion did not bother me; the most beautiful city joie de vivre of Parisians is chocolates created by master on earth was all mine to romance with. On metros, evident from street scenes chocolatiers were available in subways and cafés I came across musicians playing and I got infected soon. I innumerable boutiques across accordions and singing. Everything in Paris is like a spent hours watching the Paris. For those on budget, there piece of art. There are tributes to love and romance all street activities while were chocolate bars for as low as Arms museum over the city. Inside Hôtel des Invalides

68 69 visit to Notre-Dame de Paris was meeting a European lady finely clad in a saree. Her companions were in rather Parisian attire and naturally it attracted my

attention. I complimented her looks and she was happy Memoirs of a Backpacker Photo Feature as a child. Abhinandan Bhaduri My unusual encounters in Paris were endless. At Hôtel des Invalides I came across a friendly guard. Built by Louis XIV in late 17th century as a hospital for France's homeless veterans, the Hôtel des Invalides has been Shooting of a Russian film converted into an arms museum displaying the exploits through unknown boulevards and lanes and looking at things that I would have otherwise missed. For once I did not consult the map. It was fun! I did a lot of window shopping too at the innumerable showrooms, stores and galleries on both sides of the grand boulevard of Champs-Élysées.

The Arc de Triomphe (Victory tower) stands in the middle of the crossing of 12 streets one of them being Mayali Pass the Champs Elysees, eternally busy with tourists and locals alike. It is a tribute to the heroes who fought for France and for Napoleon and their names are engraved on its walls. There is a tomb of the Unknown A view of Mount Shivling from Tapovan Cruise on the Seine in Uttarakhand Soldier with an eternal flame beneath the arc. I am told by French army under Napoleon Bonaparte to that that the India Gate at New Delhi was inspired by this under Charles de Gaulle and those during the World architecture. War II. The Tomb of Napoleon and a few display items of the late emperor, like his suit, throne etc. are inside View of villages at Mayali Pass A cruise on the Seine, a big time tourist attraction, was the Dome Church here. The interiors of the Church a pleasant experience. It presented glimpses of with paintings in frescoes, artistic sculpture and numerous Paris monuments. During the cruise, I came picturesque ceilings left me completely mesmerized. across the Statue of liberty at Paris. Yes the Statue of The golden glow inside was captivating. Liberty! The original one at New York created by Bartholdi and gifted by France to the US is huge in I had lost my ticket that allowed entry to both the Dome size. The miniature replica of this statue in Paris stands Church and the museum. I was almost on the grand close to Pont de Grenelle on a manmade island in the door leading to the Church when I discovered that the river. It was presented to the city by the Parisian ticket was gone. I realised I won’t be able to go inside. community of the USA. It made no sense giving A local resident - Mayali Pass excuses to the guard and Ever since I had read 'The he was under no Hunchback of Notre Dame' obligation to believe. I by Victor Hugo as a child, it decided to come back and Sandakphu has been in my imagination. rather go exploring This Gothic Church is well something else. As I known for its structure and turned back, the friendly size. Interiors of the Church guard called me and were fascinating. One very asked me in French Camp at Mayali Pass pleasant memory from my “Qu'est qui s'est passé?” Town Hall, Paris

67 the rain and taking photos. Everybody was curious, so was I. Later I learnt that these newly-wed couples from China were in Paris to take their wedding pictures! In the rain their beautiful wedding gowns were getting soiled, but they seemed lost in their photo shoots. Quite an unusual memory from the city! Later I came across a similar incident during my Barcelona trip as well.

A visit to the Jardin de Tuileries left me speechless. It was so green! One of the most beautifully designed gardens of Paris it was designed by Andre le Nôtre as a royal pleasure garden with fruits and flowers for Catherine de Medici. It was opened to the public later on after changes were made. Further walk down the jardin led me to the famous Louvre museum.

The Musée du Louvre needs no introduction. It houses Louvre Museum some of the world's most renowned art collections complex me. Showing me a golden ring held between her fingers, she asked me in broken English “ this gold ring including Monalisa by Leonardo da Vinci. It houses A great view at Sandakphu yours?” I replied “No”. “ must be your luck” she said works of art created before 1848. Being in one of the Gurudongmar and added “I not greedy; you must have it”. I was still most visited destinations of the world seemed like a confused. She forced the ring into my hand and walked dream come true! In the Louvre complex, I also came away. Moments later she returned to ask me for a across the shooting of a Russian film. sandwich and a coke. Now I knew that it was a trick The Eiffel Tower dominates the skyline of Paris and and returned the ring to her. Tourists, who believe her, one can see it almost from every corner of the city. I pay her for the food and coke out of generosity! Those was lucky to have seen it at day, dusk and night and who do not take the ring at all are not trapped. Quite under sun, rain and mist. It is a masterpiece and looks View at Mayali Pass funny! But the streets of Paris are full of strange especially beautiful at night when thousands of lights experiences. Many tourists fall prey to them. glitter on it. On one side of the tower is a huge garden The crazy downpour continued for rest of the day with always crowded with tourists and on the other face is breaks from time to time. My white sneakers and lower the busy street. The view of Paris from up the tower is half of my sweatpants were almost brown by now. I truly overwhelming. reached the Place de la Concorde soon. I came across Across the Seine on the opposite bank is Palais de a bizarre thing. There were 32 Chinese couples in their Chaillot. I discovered a resplendent view of the majestic wedding attires running about the area, getting wet in tower from here. There are beautiful golden statues on the terrace of the palace facing the tower. Here I came Trekking in Sandakphu across a group of Bengali tourists busy in a heated discussion. The issue of taking pictures of the tower had given rise to the argument.

Earlier that day, from the metro station I had purchased Kashmir a day ticket for Euro 5.60 that allowed me innumerable rides in metros, RER trains and buses during the day. I made good use of the day ticket from time to time just to wander about the city in buses looking at the Local people at Sandakphu panorama and the beautiful high rises. I allowed myself to get lost in the city taking unknown buses, moving Chinese couples

66 Paris has some of the best monuments and tourist Travel & Tourism attractions that I have grown up hearing about. I was very excited. As I landed my feet on the Winston Churchill avenue, I was greeted with the elegant statue Memoirs of a Backpacker News of French hero Charles de Gaulle. What struck me was the breathtaking beauty of the greenery around. Parks, gardens and roadsides were greener than green. It was spring and Paris was in its best splendour.

I started with the Grand Palais (Big Palace) and the Touriosity Travelmag will be launched at the Oxford Bookstore, Park Street, Kolkata on Petit Palais (Small Palace). Both are imposing structures Beautiful sculpture on arched bridges 25th of May 2012. Hon’ble Minister of Tourism, Government of West Bengal, Shri Rachhpal housing museums and architecturally beautiful. The seemed to be glowing more as I stepped on the arch Singh has agreed to be present as the Guest of Honour and Shri Tapas Roy, MLA has agreed former houses a huge collection of paintings and bridge. With its beautiful sculptures, lamps, nymphs to be the Chief Guest for the evening. sculptures and the latter houses the National gallery and bright gold polish at places, the bridge soaked of fine art collection and a science museum. There are fresh in the rain water looked majestic. The Seine flowed many other tourist attractions lying close by to these beneath in all its splendour. palaces including l’Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysees, Pont Alexander III, Palais Bourbon - the French National While taking pictures of the bridge, a group of three Tourism Ministry in India is popularizing Rural Tourism Scheme for showcasing the rural Assembly building, Place de la Concorde, Jardin de middle-aged women passed me by. They stopped a lifestyle, art and culture. The aim is to boost up the socio-economic condition of rural people. At Tuileries (Tuileries garden) and the Louvre Museum. meter away. Looking around, one of them said present, as many as 74 rural tourism development projects are being implemented in various parts All are within walk-able distances. ‘Bonjour!’ in an English tone. I said ‘Hello’. One of the of India. It involves development of infrastructure and creation of facilities for promotion of rural ladies asked, “Are you travelling alone?” I said “Yes.” tourism. Suggestions for providing incentives to government employees to undertake visits on Leave As I passed by the two palaces and reached the beautiful She was surprised and looking at her companions Travel Allowance to rural tourist attractions are being considered. Pont Alexandre III, a beautiful arch bridge over the added with eyes wide open, “We would never do that!” river Seine, all of a sudden a heavy downpour started. I said “Why not? Travelling solo is fun!” Still amazed I took out my umbrella and it soon gave way. I got wet. they smiled. Those three British women were nice for Five minutes later, the rain stopped. By then, the a little talk. We chatted while crossing the bridge after surroundings were totally soaked in water. The city Shri Amarnath Yatra 2012 registrations started from 7th May 2012. This year Amarnath Yatra which our paths diverted. I was on my way to the Place shall commence simultaneously, along both the Baltal and the Chandanwari routes, on 25th June and de la Concorde and they went for the Eiffel tower. culminate on Raksha Bandhan, the 2nd August 2012. The interested Yatris can reserve their heli-seats On my way, I had to cross the bridge Pont de la through the web based on-line Reservation System, by logging on to the Shrine Board’s website. Concorde. There on Quai d’Orsay street I could see the French National Assembly building just opposite to the bridge. Buses stopped by every minute right in front of the Assembly building which was only few meters away from the roadside. The road was crowded. Travel & Tourism Fair (TTF) is the leading fair and exhibition for the travel and tourism industry I stood there for a while staring at the Palais Bourbon since the last two decades in India. Every year this fair is organized in the major cities across the (the National Assembly building) and realizing that country to help organisations in this industry to showcase their travel deals and tour packages and such thing could possibly never be imagined in my other travel products to commercial and retail customers. This year the upcoming fairs are: country. A bus stop and crowded traffic signal in front July 13 - 15, 2012, Netaji Indoor Stadium, Kolkata; July 20 - 22, 2012, Hyderabad; August 24 - 26, 2012, of Rashtrapati Bhawan or the Parliament house is Ahmedabad; August 31 - September 2, Surat; September 7 - 9, 2012, Mumbai; and September 14 - 16, beyond possibility. 2012, Pune. In this area, I came across a tricky method of begging by a group of people. As I walked along holding the city map on my hands looking for my way to the next tourist destination, a lady, aged around 45 approached

Place de Concorde

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