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Galleries and museums Must-see collections Culture — Diving into the arts scene

Sydney used to undersell itself when it came to its cultural assets, preferring to talk up its natural beauty rather than its intellectual offering. Not any more. A jam-packed calendar of large-scale public events, a slew of world-beating museums and an artistic community brimming with creativity make the city a delight for the culture hungry. You’ll find a city , Darlinghurst chock-full of galleries, Back to nature live-music venues and independent cinemas. The aim of ’s first public As in most cities, some museum, when it was green-lit in of the more interesting 1827, was to gather rare specimens artistic ventures are of natural history and miscellaneous curiosities. Today its collection found in outlying suburbs boasts more than 18 million cultural a few steps off the and scientific exhibits, showcases well-trodden tourist Australian history from Aboriginal track. Carriageworks, archaeology to artefacts from its for instance, a mixed- greatest explorers, and has a world- use cultural space, has leading research programme. brought life to Eveleigh, A 2015 upgrade dramatically an otherwise-sleepy expanded the floorspace. It also added the first new permanent suburb, while previously exhibition space in more than 50 overlooked Waterloo is years: the Wild Planet Gallery now home to several highlights global biodiversity pioneering commercial through the more than 400 animal art galleries. Here’s a specimens on display. For your tight portrait of the best own bird’s-eye view, head up to the museum’s terrace: the balcony this artful city has to I call offers stunning 180-degree this ‘The offer when it comes panoramic views of Hyde Park to culture, from the Strangled and the Woolloomooloo area. Cat’ famous hotspots to the 1 William Street, 2010 hidden masterpieces. 161 (0)2 9320 6000 australianmuseum.net.au

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Ambush Gallery, Chippendale -use s ed p Street art for all x a i — c e M The gallery Bill Dimas and John Wiltshire have also presents been pushing the cultural envelope films and live music since 2007 (their Outpost Project at Cockatoo Island in 2011 was one of the biggest street-art festivals in the southern hemisphere). After the success of the original Ambush Gallery in Waterloo’s industrial district the duo opened this second 1,000-capacity venue in 2015 in Chippendale’s landmark Central Park Sydney building. The space houses urban art from emerging talents across three galleries as well as on-site event and project spaces. Level 3, Central Park, 28 Broadway, 2008 161 (0)2 8008 8516 ambushgallery.com

Brett Whiteley Studio, Surry Hills SH Ervin Gallery, The Rocks Artist workspace National treasures

You could walk past artist Brett Housed in the National Trust Whiteley’s former studio in Surry Centre perched atop Observatory Hills and not know you’d done so. Hill, the SH Ervin Gallery The only giveaway is a miniature overlooks Sydney’s historic The wall-mounted version of his piece Rocks precinct. But don’t let the “Almost Once”: two matchsticks, Museum of Contemporary Art somewhat laborious schlep up the one charred, the other intact. There Australia, The Rocks hill discourage you. This gallery is an 8-metre version behind the Art Make it modern is dedicated to flaunting the best Gallery of nsw (see left). of Australian art, from historical Whiteley is known for works that Since 1999 this public gallery to contemporary. Exhibitions, challenge notions of life and death; has been under the leadership of public talks from curators and sadly he died of a drug overdose in director Elizabeth Ann Macgregor, artist presentations fill the busy 1992. His studio is now this gallery, who piloted a major au$53m programme. The adjoining Trust Art Gallery of NSW, CBD which opens between 10.00 and White Rabbit Gallery, Chippendale refurbishment of the five-storey Café provides a fittingly refined Prize artwork 16.00 from Friday to Sunday. Chinese cognisance building by architect Sam Marshall pit-stop after a morning’s wander 2 Raper Street, 2010 (see pages 112) in 2012. This through the exhibitions. The Art Gallery of 161 (0)2 9225 1881 In 2009 the White Rabbit Gallery saw the exhibition space double, 2 Watson Road, 2001 was established in 1871 opposite artgallery.nsw.gov.au/brett- was opened to display Judith widening the scope for large-scale 161 (0)2 9258 0173 the Royal Botanic Garden Sydney whiteley-studio Neilson’s vast collection of 21st- touring exhibitions by the likes of shervingallery.com.au in a classical building designed by century Chinese art: almost 2,000 Anish Kapoor and Grayson Perry. Walter Liberty Vernon. It’s home to a works by more than 500 artists, from The mca also holds more than masterful collection of international In the picture Ai Weiwei to Yang Fudong. “Judith 4,000 works by Australian artists in and homegrown works: the Grand — realised there was so much to say its permanent collection, including Courts showcase old masters, while For more than 40 years the that wasn’t being said,” says gallery an important catalogue of pieces there are galleries dedicated to not-for-profit Australian Centre manager David Williams. “She felt by contemporary Aboriginal and Aboriginal art and contemporary for Photography has been the Chinese were misunderstood: Torres Strait Islander artists. Be Australian pieces. With an introducing the public to like everyone, they have hopes, fears sure to head to the balcony on the exceptional in-house restaurant dynamic and often-challenging and a sense of humour. She wanted fourth floor to soak in the views (see page 29) offering fine food and photography by national and to show this on the world stage.” of the harbour. The shop is also sweeping views of Sydney Harbour, international artists. In 2016 This unmissable spot is housed in a worthy stop-in for artist-made the gallery is worth taking time to the group relocated from a former Rolls-Royce depot and has goodies, limited-edition prints peruse – even on a sunny day. Paddington to Darlinghurst. a charming on-site tea house. and a stellar selection of art books. Art Gallery Road, 2000 acp.org.au 30 Balfour Street, 2008 140 George Street, 2000 161 (0)2 9225 1744 161 (0)2 8399 2867 161 (0)2 9245 2400 artgallery.nsw.gov.au whiterabbitcollection.org mca.com.au

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Commercial galleries Arty business Gallery 9, Darlinghurst China Heights Gallery, Surry Hills Talent spotters Aiming high

Emerging artists the world over China Heights Gallery began as a have a tough time getting their work studio for artists Edward Woodley, on display. Gallery 9 opened its Michael Sharp and Mark Drew. It doors in 2006 in an unprepossessing quickly evolved into an exhibition terrace house in the inner-city space and work hub for a host of suburb of Darlinghurst with the resident artists, photographers and aim of helping fledgling artists – designers. “We looked to other young painters, sculptors, ceramicists and creative studios in New York, photographers – get their work on and other cities,” says Woodley. walls and into the hands of private China Heights is set on the patrons. The gallery is an intimate third floor of a former light- affair that is committed to a small industrial building in between stable of emerging and mid-career Surry Hills and Chinatown (hence artists, many Sydney born and bred, Firstdraft, Woolloomooloo the name) and is easy to miss. and encourages them to experiment Building block Over the years the outfit has beyond their usual range. supported young up-and-coming 9 Darley Street, 2010 Despite reaching the ripe old artists including Mark Whalen 161 (0)2 9380 9909 age of 30 in 2016, the Firstdraft and Paul Davies, who have both gallery9.com.au gallery is anything but staid. The since moved to the US and seen artist-run organisation moved to their careers blossom. “One of the its squat red-brick premises in most important things about China Chippendale Creative Precinct Woolloomooloo in 2014. Curators, Heights is that we’ve always been artists and writers can bid for independent,” says Woodley. “We This Inner West hotspot has exhibition rooms and wall space are a satellite to the art scene and become a magnet for the within the two-storey gallery and not dependent on funding.” creative industry. Here are the results are always enlivening, 16-28 Foster Street, 2010 some favourites to head to. despite sometimes lacking polish. chinaheights.com Firstdraft is a vital stepping 01 Kensington stone for emerging artists and 2 Danks Street, Waterloo Contemporary 1 and 2: its longevity is testament to its Concrete hub These sister galleries ongoing role in Sydney’s vibrant are housed in salvaged arts scene. When this arts complex – and workers’ terraces along 13-17 Riley Street, 2011 its ever-popular adjoining bistro redeveloped Kensington 161 (0)2 8970 2999 – opened 15 years ago, it helped Street. Expect modern firstdraft.org.au put Waterloo on the map as a works in petite spaces. place for creative types. The chippendalecreative.com low-slung concrete structure is 02 Verge Gallery: This hip Roslyn Oxley9, Paddington a vast space divided into eight not-for-profit arts space Raising the stakes private contemporary galleries, is run by the University of dedicated to exhibiting art from Sydney Union. It holds Roslyn and husband Tony Oxley around the world. regular exhibitions, live are well known to any collector One of the galleries, Utopia music events and has an serious about Australian art; they Art Sydney, showcases the work excellent zine library. represent some of the finest artists of the Papunya Tula movement verge-gallery.net working in the country today. (art created by Western Desert 03 The Japan Foundation: Their Sydney gallery, established Aussie art icon Aboriginal artists in the 1970s), This gallery is a cultural in 1982, has fostered the careers — including several pieces by the intersection between Japan of artists who have gone on to Ken Done is one of the nation’s revered (and highly collectable) and Australia and explores exhibit internationally, such as best-known artists – his vibrant Gloria Petyarre. A fine-art dealer the nature of national Tracey Moffatt, Hany Armanious, art was ubiquitous on T-shirts also resides in the complex, as identity. Works include David Noonan, Fiona Hall, Patricia in the 1980s and 1990s and does jewellery studio 20/17, where traditional and modern Piccinini and Destiny Deacon. even featured in 2000 Sydney Bridget Kennedy and Melanie pieces from both nations. You’ll find the gallery tucked Olympic Games ceremonies Ihnen create intricate, wearable jpf.org.au away down a cul-de-sac in the leafy – but also one of its most pieces on-site. residential suburb of Paddington. maligned. Make up your own 2 Danks Street, 2017 8 Soudan Lane, 2021 mind at his gallery in The Rocks. 161 (0)2 9319 4420 161 (0)2 9331 1919 kendone.com.au 2danksstreet.com.au roslynoxley9.com.au

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Cultural spaces Room to experiment tive ea hu r b C — Carriageworks is home to Cockatoo Island leading arts Squawk this way groups

This former penal colony and dockyard, named after its noisy avian residents, lay dormant for a decade before being restored and reopened by the Sydney Harbour Trust in 2007. It was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 2010 and is now a major cultural destination that plays host to the Sydney Festival, Sydney Biennale and numerous other art shows. But even when there are no exhibitions on there’s plenty to do: guided tours, tennis or simply wandering through the tunnels and historic buildings. It’s a quick trip from the mainland: simply hop on a ferry from Circular The Red Rattler, Marrickville Quay or Darling Harbour. You can Lights, camera, activism also camp overnight in tents or stay in one of the island’s heritage houses. This Marrickville warehouse is 161 (0)2 8969 2100 home to one of Sydney’s foremost cockatooisland.gov.au alternative theatre and music venues. Like the city’s red rattler trains it is named after, this is a place that shakes things up. It’s run by a group of unpaid creative sorts and activists who have set the stage for musicians, artists, designers, film-makers, multimedia makers and collectives since 2009. The five so-called “Rats” used to host events in various inner- city locations but wanted a place Olsen Irwin Gallery, Woollahra Carriageworks, Eveleigh where they could exercise more Family affair Back on track control over the audience experience. The space is an eclectic mix of This arts enterprise was created in If you passed the Eveleigh Rail bare-brick walls, polished concrete 2013 by two of the city’s heavyweight Yards in the 19th century you’d floors, pink velvet sofas and vintage art dealers: Tim Olsen, son of have heard the clatter of blacksmiths homeware. Whether you’re in the Bowral-based painter and national forging train carriages. By the late mood for theatre, an artshow or treasure John Olsen, and Rex Irwin, 1980s the workshops had fallen silent. live music, The Red Rattler always who has been in the business since Until, that is, the brick-built gem delivers a good time. The rooftop 1976. The pair cast a wide net: became the focus of an ambitious garden is a top spot for drinks on Australian and international art programme of adaptation and a balmy evening too. by both emerging and established reuse, which turned the site into 6 Faversham Street, 2204 names. Martine Emdur’s ethereal one of Australia’s roomiest and 161 (0)2 9565 1044 paintings of Sydney swimmers are best-looking mixed-use art spaces. redrattler.org always popular, as are Dinosaur Large windows flood the interiors Designs co-founder Stephen with light. Permanent residents My, this Ormandy’s organic sculptures. A include Sydney Chamber Opera, theatre second outpost on Queen Street contemporary dance outfit Force certainly focuses on works on paper. Majeure and theatrical troupe Erth. is edgy... 63 Jersey Road, 2025 245 Wilson Street, 2015 161 (0)2 9327 3922 161 (0)2 8571 9099 olsenirwin.com carriageworks.com.au

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Music venues Cinemas Listen live Take a seat Golden Age Cinema and Bar, Surry Hills Silver-screen idols

This old picture house is steeped in cinematic history. Originally it was the home of Paramount Pictures’ Australasian headquarters and the cinema room, which dates back to the 1940s, saw the first Australian screenings of classic movies such as The Godfather and Chinatown. The building was brought back to life by brothers Barrie, Bob and Chris Barton and was clearly a labour of love. Chairs in the screening room Three more were transported from an old private cinema in Zürich and a 01 Enmore Theatre, prominent Futurist chandelier by Newtown: The Enmore Robert Haussmann was sourced has been a mainstay since for the adjoining bar. Bob, a 1912: it’s the state’s longest designer by trade, took the lead in pic continuously running s a tu restoring and redesigning the spaces, t’ re live-music venue. Artists I — commissioning Australian craftsmen as varied as Kraftwerk, The Ritz Cinema, Randwick The historic such as Louis Berczi and Hugh Kiss and Coldplay have Celluloid and cocktails venue was McCarthy for the work. graced its stage. painstakingly Equal care is lavished on the enmoretheatre.com.au This heritage-listed art deco restored films. The programme is divided 02 The Basement, CBD: With cinema dates back to 1937. It’s a bit into four seasons a year, during a roster of performers over of a journey from the city centre which popular movies are set next the past four decades, but it’s worth it: the family-owned to small-budget arthouse releases. including names such as complex has retained plenty of its “We want to screen a curated list Herbie Hancock, Dizzy yesteryear charm. It also shows of films you really should see,” Gillespie and Vince Jones, a balanced mix of blockbusters says Bob, “but leave room for this historic club has alongside art-house flicks across some fun too.” become a byword for its six screening rooms. Arrive 80 Commonwealth Street, 2010 world-class jazz music in early for a pre-show drink at The 161 (0)2 9211 1556 Sydney. Yet fear not if that’s Ritz Bar on the mezzanine level, ourgoldenage.com.au not your jam: a full spread where the cocktails are named after of genres, including indie famous films: raise a glass with a City Recital Hall, CBD and rock, is on offer. Miss Monroe lychee martini or In the chamber thebasement.com.au a Once Upon a Time in Mexico 03 Oxford Art Factory, spicy chilli margarita. While City Recital Hall may not Darlinghurst: This hip, 45 Saint Pauls Street, 2031 draw the plaudits like its white- mid-sized venue is the place 161 (0)2 8324 2500 shelled cousin on Bennelong to catch bands before they ritzcinema.com.au Point, it has nonetheless won over become so popular they fill concert buffs as one of the finest stadiums. The front bar chamber-music venues in the turns into a riotous dance Hayden Orpheum Picture Palace, Park life world. Australian architect Andrew floor on weekends too. Cremorne — Andersons designed the hall to oxfordartfactory.com Old-school charm Come summertime, hold 1,200 concert-goers across Sydneysiders spend many an three tiers and with pristine sound Theatre historian John Love restored evening watching films in the quality in mind. See prestigious this 1930s cinema back to its former great outdoors. Pack a picnic national talent that includes the art deco glory in 1987, even adding and head to Centennial Park’s Australian Chamber Orchestra a Wurlitzer organ to herald the start Gotta fly, Moonlight Cinema, Royal and Musica Viva, the country’s I'm off to of films. The six-screen venue has a Botanic Garden Sydney’s oldest independent professional watch a varied programme, from Hollywood OpenAir Cinema or North performing-arts ensemble. flick at blockbusters to live music. Sydney Oval’s Sunset 2 Angel Place, 2000 Centennial 380 Military Road, 2090 Cinema. 161 (0)2 8256 2222 Park 161 (0)2 9908 4344 cityrecitalhall.com orpheum.com.au

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Companies Sydney on screen Leading arts groups 1 5 Radio: essential listening

01 Muriel’s Wedding, 1994: Australia is a country of long car This dark comedy rides and faraway places, so it's catapulted Toni Collette to no surprise it has great radio. 6 7 stardom and coined the now-common Australian 01 ABC Radio National: vernacular, “You’re terrible, Radio National has the Muriel”. Outcast Muriel largest network of escapes the insular town frequencies in the country, of Porpoise Spit to find covering current affairs, solace in Sydney but soon arts, science and more. discovers happiness isn’t 2 Highlights are Amanda as easy as a nice wedding. Vanstone’s Counterpoint 02 Looking for Alibrandi, and Monocle’s very own 2000: The angsty book The Urbanist series. about a teenage daughter Belvoir Street Theatre, Surry Hills abc.net.au/radionational of Italian immigrants was Much-loved wonder 3 02 Triple J and Double J: an Aussie school Also under the ABC curriculum staple in the When the Nimrod Theatre was umbrella is music station 1990s before being turned threatened with redevelopment in Triple J and its digital into an excellent feature 1984, more than 600 people united sister Double J. Tune in to film in 2000. Underpinned to buy the building. Today the The J Files to uncover the by the threads of Sydney’s renamed theatre is still going strong stories behind the sounds complex cultural identity, and its two stages have hosted some or Home & Hosed for a the film lays bare the pains of Australia’s pre-eminent acting 4 guide to the latest music. of adolescence. talent, including Cate Blanchett. doublej.net.au 03 Lantana, 2001: A modern 25 Belvoir Street, 2010 03 FBi Radio: This Alexandria classic built on love, 161 (0)2 9699 3444 station is run by 10 staff betrayal and the decline of belvoir.com.au and 150 volunteers. 50 relationships. Its melancholic per cent of the music scenes, directed by Ray Best of the rest played is Australian, of Lawrence and starring Bangarra Dance Theatre, Sydney media round-up Kiosks which half is from Sydney. Geoffrey Rush, Anthony Dawes Point Shelf life fbiradio.com LaPaglia and Barbara Historic movement 04 Koori Radio: This Hershey, are set in the For a country with such a robust Aboriginal and Torres Strait suburban sprawl. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander publishing scene, it’s becoming Islander community-run 04 The Rage in Placid Lake, dance company Bangarra draws on Media round-up increasingly difficult to find a reliable station has an award- 2003: This wickedly more than 40,000 years of culture Printed perfection newsstand. Bucking the trend with winning team behind the satirical film fell under the to choreograph its performances. perhaps the most comprehensive five weekly programmes radar when it was released Sydney Theatre Company, The company has been pushing the Australian publishing is a dynamic collection of print in the city is and daily breakdown of but is an offbeat gem Dawes Point envelope of contemporary dance beast. Although from rival city Kings Cross Newsagency; enter indigenous music culture. worth seeking out. It Tour de force since 1989. , quarterly Paper Sea for a treasure of specialist kooriradio.com follows two neglected Pier 4, 15 Hickson Road, 2000 is a fine independent ode to beach Australian titles. Similarly, Oxford teens (singer Ben Lee and The iconic Sydney cultural 161 (0)2 9251 5333 culture. For your daily news, pick Street bookshop Beautiful Pages actor Rose Byrne) and institution has a fittingly impressive bangarra.com.au up broadsheet The Australian or (see page 63) has a cracking collection their search for self-belief. home: it's housed in a heritage-listed The Sydney Morning Herald; the of national and international 05 Little Fish, 2005: Cate pier in the shadow of the Sydney latter’s culture and culinary round- publications. As does Published Blanchett stars in this Harbour Bridge. While many up is reliable. For long-form analysis Art in Surry Hills, which focuses on Monocle 24 poignant portrait of a Sydney Theatre Company works try weekly The Saturday Paper, design, architecture and the arts. — family struggling in have toured internationally since from the same stable as current- It would be remiss not to Sydney’s Little Saigon. its establishment in 1978, it also affairs glossyThe Monthly. Relative where to find them: mention Monocle 24's own Australian film is often presents a diverse programme of newcomer Future Perfect offers an 01 Kings Cross Newsagency: radio station that is available referenced for its comical Australian plays to home audiences, Australian take on the world, while 101 Darlinghurst Road, 2011 online. Or tune into RN to hear satires but this brilliant reaching more than 300,000 Art Collector is a stalwart glossy 161 (0)2 9356 4151 a wide range of Monocle 24's drama captures just how people per year. While in town, the of industry news and upcoming 02 Beautiful Pages: programmes, from food and poignant and moving company holds performances at exhibitions. Finally Bangalow-based 114 Oxford Street, 2010 drink to culture or our longest- Aussie cinema can be. The Wharf, Roslyn Packer Theatre quarterly Womankind prints 161 (0)2 9356 2331 running programme 'The and the Sydney Opera House. articles on contemporary intrigue 03 Published Art: Monocle Weekly'. Pier 4, 15 Hickson Road, 2000 such as women in the Italian mafia Level 1, 52 Reservoir Street, 2010 161 (0)2 9250 1777 or the social paradigms of bees. 161 (0)2 9212 1169 sydneytheatre.com.au

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