Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Parcs Canada Alberta Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs. INA Publication No. QS-7008-OOO-EE-AI Design: GottschalkH-Ash Ltd.

This and all other reports in the Wild Rivers series will also be available in French. Wild Rivers: Alberta

Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1974 2

The Kootenay Plains on the North Saskat­ chewan River 3

It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses in­ tense nervous sensation into the short­ est possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye, and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume - for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames.

Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4

©Crown Copyrights reserved Now available in this series: Available by mail from Information Wild Rivers: Saskatchewan Canada, Ottawa K1A 0S9, and at the following Information Canada book­ Soon to be available: shops: Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Halifax Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains 1683 Barrington Street Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory Montréal Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands 640 St. Catherine Street West Wild Rivers: The James Bay/Hudson Ottawa Bay Region 171 Slater Street Wild Rivers: Southwestern Québec Toronto and Eastern Ontario 221 Yonge Street Wild Rivers: Québec North Shore Winnipeg Wild Rivers: Labrador and 393 Portage Avenue Newfoundland Vancouver 800 Granville Street or through your bookseller Price $1.50 Catalogue No. R62-82/1974-2 Price subject to change without notice Information Canada Ottawa, 1974 5 Table of Contents

Foreword 6 4 North Saskatchewan River: Alexandra River to Edmonton 46 The Wild Rivers of Alberta 8 Climate 8 5 Red Deer River: Planning the trip 9 Rocky Mountains to Saskatchewan River 58 Map of Wild Rivers of Alberta 10 Further reading 70 1 Smoky River: Grande Cache to Peace River 12

2 Brazeau River: Nigel Pass to Brazeau Reservoir 20

3 Clearwater River: Trident Lake to Rocky Mountain House 36 6 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our Long before Europeans laid eyes on natural heritage. These waterways, them, these rivers served the native untouched by the march of man's peoples as vital sources of both food technological progress, are the arte­ and transportation. Later, the rivers ries of our land, and one of the main were to carry the newly-arrived Euro­ elements in its growth to nationhood. peans on other voyages of exploration From the copper-coloured water­ and exploitation throughout the vast falls of the Labrador plateau, to the interior of the continent. And the set­ Canadian Shield's labyrinth of lakes tlers who followed travelled the same and streams, to the glacial torrents cut­ routes. ting through the western mountains — The waterways were the mainstay of wild rivers are all that remain unhar­ the fur trade; they were the highways nessed of those waterways which first to the gold rushes. They did much made it possible for this huge and to provide the economic nourishment varied country to be explored and through which Canada grew to its developed. present stature. With the advent of modern technol­ ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed to serve our newfound needs. But 7

thousands of miles of waterways, and Parks Canada is promoting these to describe many of the rivers, and the land they pass through, remain challenging voyages of discovery, only experienced and well-equipped essentially untouched. which embrace both the past and the canoeists should enter these waters. Today, Canadians are gradually re­ present. Wild rivers are important to You will find them a tremendous chal­ discovering these fascinating wild Canadians as integral components of lenge. So it's up to you. Our land and rivers. They are seeing nature on its our founding heritages. our rivers are waiting for you to ex­ own terms — enjoying its works from However, a good deal of down-to- plore and rediscover them. the vantage of its own highways. They earth information about the rivers and are recreating the adventures of the their habits is needed before anyone explorers; struggling over the same attempts to navigate them. It is for this portages as the heavily-burdened "cou­ reason that Parks Canada decided to reurs de bois"; running rapids which carry out surveys of wild rivers all once hurtled "voyageurs" and their across the country. We are publishing precious cargoes toward the markets the results of these surveys in the pres­ of Montréal; gently floating down ent series of booklets, in order to pro­ majestic rivers which once carried vide a practical guide for the modern thousands of anxious prospectors to­ "voyageur". ward the promise of gold. But there is one other very impor­ tant point that you must bear in mind. "Wild" really is the correct adjective 8 The Wild Rivers of Alberta Climate

With thrilling rapids and glorious The region enjoys an excellent recrea­ mountain scenery, the wild rivers of tional climate from spring through fall. Alberta provide great opportunities for Summers are generally dry; what pre­ canoeists. In spite of many rapids, few cipitation there is takes the form of require long portages. In most cases, short-lived thunderstorms, and persis­ the upper reaches of these rivers are tent bad weather is very rare. In the accessible by road.Travelling Alberta's mountains and foothills the weather is wild rivers, the canoeist can enjoy true warm, but seldom hot; as you pass wilderness without getting too far from downstream, the temperature rises. centres of supply and assistance. July daily maximums average around During the high water levels of June 22° Celsius (73° Fahrenheit), while and early July the rivers are full, fast the minimums average about 8° Celsius and powerful. Extreme caution is nec­ (40° Fahrenheit). Measurable precipi­ essary to avoid log jams which may tation occurs on about 40% of summer occur at sharp bends. Conversely, at days in the headwaters, and somewhat lower water levels from mid-July on, less frequently farther downstream. obstacles in the water may lie danger­ ously close to the surface, or be com­ pletely exposed. For the most part these are long, strenuous and isolated trips, recom­ mended only for experienced river canoeists. 9

Planning the trip

In planning a canoe trip allow 25 to 30 with sand or soil, and stamped down The national Topographic Series of kilometres (15 to 20 miles) per day firmly. All garbage should be packed maps are available from: paddling. Always allow extra time and out with you. Canada Map Office, food for such unforeseen events as be­ A sturdy canoe capable of handling Room 147, 615 Booth Street, ing windbound or delayed by rain. well in rapids, plus equipment for its Ottawa, Ontario K1A0E9 If egress is to be by plane make sure repair, are essential. Aluminum canoes arrangements have been made before were used throughout the wild rivers you begin the trip. surveys, and proved most practical. Be sure to check in with some re­ Since lining and hauling are often sponsible agency (the RCMP or the Al­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are berta Ministry of Lands and Forests*), essential. Several pairs of high-cut run­ giving them your route and expected ning shoes, or other sturdy footwear, time of arrival. And do not forget to which can take the abuse of rocks and check out with them at the end of the constant wetness are also needed. trip. In the more isolated regions an Permits for fires and fishing may be emergency survival kit is advisable. required. Extreme caution should be The kit should contain high-energy exercised in the use of fire. Campfires food rations, waterproofed matches, should only be built on rock or sand; fishhooks and line, and emergency afterwards they should be extinguished rescue flares for signalling aircraft. completely with water, smothered These items should be well water­ proofed; if the kit is small it could be worn on your belt. Firearms are never necessary.

* Legislative Buildings, Edmonton, Alberta. 10 11

1 Smoky River 12

Smoky River Access and egress Maps required

Grande Cache to Peace River Access to the Smoky River from the (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) (see map, page 10) town of Grande Cache, Alberta, is quite 83E Mount Robson simple. The town is 432 kilometres 83L Wapiti Length (270 miles) northwest of Edmonton 83M Grande Prairie 7 to 12 days/456 kilometres (285 and 634 kilometres (396 miles) north­ 83N Wingami miles)/no major portages west of Calgary by paved roads. The 84C Peace River population of Grande Cache is 3,500 Date of survey and all services are available. Other late August 1973, medium flow level points of access are the Highway 34 and Highway 49 bridges, respectively 218 and 339 kilometres (136 and 212 miles) below Grande Cache. The town of Peace River is a good point of egress, with paved roads lead­ ing from the town to Highway 2. 13

About the river

Geography shale, or conglomerates. Sand and nate the valley floor, while the higher The Smoky can be divided into 3 main cobble bars become more frequent to­ slopes are forested with spruce. There physiographic units. Beginning at the ward the end of the foothills. are frequent meadows and grassy hill­ Continental Divide in the heart of the Below the mouth of the Cutbank sides. Rockies, the river soon leaves the River, the Smoky traverses an area of Below Grande Cache, the open Rocky Mountains to pass through the very little relief as it enters the park- grassy hillsides gradually yield to a foothills, finally traversing the rela­ lands of the Peace River district. In the very dense forest of poplar, aspen, tively flat parkland of the Peace River last 250 kilometres ( 1 50 miles) of its birch and spruce. The dense, largely country into which the river has cut a course, the river occupies a valley deciduous forest persists along the deep valley. which is often more than 1 50 metres lower river, although as the Smoky en­ In the 104 kilometres (65 miles) (500 feet) below the level of the sur­ ters the drier Peace River country the from its source to the end of the moun­ rounding land. Sandstone and shale vegetation becomes scrub. tains, the Smoky drops 710 metres cliffs are prevalent in this section. The (2,300 feet). Most of the way, it oc­ Smoky expands to an average width of Fauna cupies a wide, flat-bottomed valley, but over 120 metres (400 feet), attaining The mountains are the key winter and there are several unnavigable canyons a width of 300 metres ( 1,000 feet) in spring range for elk, moose and big­ near the headwaters. places, and slows to a velocity of about horn sheep. Woodland caribou, wolves The foothill physiographic unit lasts one metre (3.3 feet) per second. and wolverines also live here. Deer, from Grande Cache to the vicinity of bear and beaver appear farther along the Cutbank River. In the first few kilo­ Flora the river. Dolly Varden, arctic grayling metres, mountains rise as high as In the final part of the mountain physio­ and Rocky Mountain whitefish occur 1,085 metres (3,500 feet) above the graphic unit, deciduous trees such as mainly in the upper reaches. Waterfowl river, but they quickly subside into low, balsam poplar, aspen and birch domi­ are quite common and eagles and rolling hills. The banks are usually hawks can be seen. steep, sometimes exposing sandstone, 14

The canoe trip

Grande Cache to the Cutbank River (3 to 5 days/147 kilometres (92 miles) /350-metre (1,125-foot) drop in elevation) The starting point of this river trip is just below Grande Cache Bridge, where a small road branches off to the right of the main paved road and leads to the east shore. At this point the river is 120 metres (400 feet) wide and one metre (3.3 feet) deep, with a current of 1 ys metres (5 feet) per second. The view from the river is limited to steep and densely forested hillsides. In the first 8 kilometres (5 miles) below the Grande Cache Bridge the only obstacles are braided channels with minor rapids. Then, 8 kilometres (5 miles) from the starting point, at the mouth of Hill's Creek, there are 2 con­ secutive and more difficult rapids which can be run on the left side after scouting.

The mouth of the Napiti River as it joins the Smoky River 15

The Grande Cache coal mine is situ­ lowed by an open bank with huge boul­ beginning about a kilometre C/^-mile) 1 ated 6 /2 kilometres (4 miles) below ders which makes a good landing point. below, before the Cutbank River and Hill's Creek. Beyond the mine, the The ledge and midstream boulders ending a kilometre (V^-mile) below, Alberta Natural Resources Railway fol­ just beyond this point may be run after where the second railway bridge lows the left embankment of the river, scouting or can be easily lined along crosses the river. This series of rapids and debris from washed-out sections the right bank. Just below the ledge are is marked on the topographic map. The 1 detracts from the wilderness atmo­ 2 consecutive rapids of /2-kilometre first rapid of the series can be skirted, sphere. Frequent riffles and choppy sec­ (%-mile) long; both can be run or although it is difficult to pick the best tions occur 19 kilometres (12 miles) lined. Beyond these obstacles, there route in this boulder-strewn stream. above the Kakwa River; but they pre­ are only a few minor riffles before the About 90 metres (100 yards) before sent no serious difficulties. junction of the Kakwa River. Camp­ the Cutbank there is a ledge which can Just below the first railway bridge is sites are rare above the Kakwa but be run down a chute on the right after a short rapid with waves up to one there is a good site at the confluence. careful inspection; care must be taken metre (3.3 feet) high which are easily Immediately downstream a set of to avoid the large boulders which fol­ avoidable. There is a rapid 5Y2 kilo­ rapids commences. These have waves low immediately. The rapid just below 1 1 metres (3 /2 miles) farther down­ up to 1 /2 metres (4 feet) high in it can be avoided in the slower-moving stream, which can be skirted along the places, but the worst are usually avoid­ water between the rocks on the right. left shore. Just after this the river able by hugging the bank. In at least Just below the Cutbank confluence takes a sharp bend to the left, passing two places, scouting is required to de­ another difficult rapid, with numerous through some easy white water before termine the best route; lining would ledges and rocks, can be run along the arriving at a more difficult rapid around be easy on either shore. right. The high railroad bridge marks a right-hand bend, 5 kilometres (3 Below this there are a few rapids, all the end of the major rapids and the end miles) before the confluence of the easily run by experienced canoeists. of this section of the Smoky river. The Kakwa River. There are high sandstone These lead to a longer series of rapids, railroad returns to the west side and cliffs on the inside of this curve, fol­ immediately diverges from the river. 16

Cutbank River to Watino Bridge (4 to 6 days/229 kilometres (143 miles)/240-metre (775-foot) drop in elevation) The Smoky gradually widens to as much as 120 metres (400 feet) and slows to 11/4 metres (4 feet) per sec­ ond, with a depth varying between Vi-metre and 2 metres (2 and 7 feet). Eroded banks of sandstone and fluvial deposits alternate with wide cobble bars. The hills are seldom more than 30 metres (100 feet) high. Campsites are abundant on numerous sand bars. Small rapids and riffles are frequent. In between are long stretches of rela­ tively still water where the current slows to one metre (3.3 feet) per second. Signs of the 1972 spring flood are abundant, including dead trees on banks and the remains of a washed-out

A rapid on the Smoky River, just above the junction with the Kakwa River 17

bridge 25 kilometres (15 miles) below the confluence with the Cutbank River. A new steel bridge lies downstream from the old one. Farther on, the High­ way 34 bridge provides good access to the river, and there is a small provin­ cial campsite on the right bank. Occa­ sional farm houses can be seen above the bluffs or along densely forested banks. The paved Highway 49 crosses the river at Watino. This small village is just downstream on the left bank, and its small general store and post office are a short walk from the river. On the right bank is another provincial camp­ ground which marks the end of this second section.

Kuass Flats and Willmore Park, on the Smoky River 18

Watino to Peace River In this section, the Smoky River out considerably. Many large islands (1 to 2 days/78 kilometres (49 miles) gains speed, offering more interesting divide the waters at the point where /60-metre (200-foot) drop in canoeing for novice paddlers. In places, they finally join. elevation) the river narrows to less than 90 metres The Peace River is about a 1/2-kilo- In this section of the Smoky River, the (100 yards) from its average width of metre (Vi-mile) wide and has an aver­ scenery is wild and somewhat more 180 metres (200 yards), and the cur­ age speed of one metre (3.3 feet) per interesting than in the previous 250 rent accelerates to 1 '/4 metres (4 feet) second at a medium flow level. kilometres (1 50 miles). Below the per second). There are frequent rapids The town of Peace River is situated Watino bridge the country remains flat with occasional boulders and standing about 8 kilometres (5 miles) down­ for a short stretch before the hills con­ waves up to one metre (3.3 feet) high; stream from the confluence. With a verge. Sandstone cliffs attain heights these can usually be avoided. In the population of over 7,700, it offers most of 180 metres (600 feet) and occa­ rapids, the river may accelerate to 1 % facilities, including a car rental agency. sional hoodoo formations occur. Vege­ metres (6 feet) per second, while be­ There is a convenient egress point on tation consists mainly of birch and tween rapids currents of 2/3-metre (2 the right bank near the centre of the poplar, with occasional spruce. Tracks feet) per second are common. town, just before the railway and road of geese, bear, coyote and deer are About 26 kilometres (1 6 miles) be­ bridges. present on the numerous sand bars, fore the meeting of the Smoky and the which also furnish very good camping Peace rivers, a small campground can spots. be reached by a dirt road which as­ cends the bluff on the right bank. Near- ing the confluence the valley flattens 19

2 Brazeau River 20

Brazeau River Access and egress Maps required

Nigel Pass to Brazeau Reservoir The headwaters of the Brazeau occupy (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) (see map, page 10) a roadless area of Jasper National Park, 83G Brazeau so access is limited to pack trail. Float 83B Rocky Mountain House Length planes are not allowed on Brazeau 8 to 13 days/219 kilometres Lake. Portaging canoes over a moun­ (N.T.S. 1:50,000 scale) (137 miles)/7 to10 portages tain pass may sound like a difficult 83C/6 Sunwapta task, but in this case it is easier than it 83C/7w Job Creek Date of survey seems. At 2,240 metres (7,225 feet) 83C/10w George Creek early August, at medium flow level Nigel Pass is relatively low, and the 83C/15 Grave Flats total ascent from the Banff-Jasper high­ 83C/15e Pembina Forks way is only 300 metres ( 1,000 feet). A good pack trail and wonderful scenery make the portage more of an adventure than an ordeal. The survey crew's bag­ gage was packed by horse over Nigel Pass in 6 hours. However, those less prepared could easily require an entire day. Back packing might involve 2 days. The trip ends at the Brazeau Reser­ voir, where roads head back to Drayton Valley and Rocky Mountain House. 21

About the river

Geography particularly spectacular, and include a campsites along the river. The enclosed Like other rivers on the east slope of series of impressive waterfalls. Be­ valley continues for 75 kilometres (47 the Rockies, the Brazeau traverses 3 tween canyons the Brazeau flows with­ miles) with occasional breaks in the distinct physiographic areas between in a flat-bottomed glaciated trough. cliffs. The Brazeau averages 30 metres its source and its confluence with the Throughout the unit spectacular snow­ ( 100 feet) in width and perhaps 1 Vi North Saskatchewan. These are the capped mountains flank the valley, metres (4 feet) in depth in this unit, and high ranges of the Rocky Mountains, towering as much as 1,500 metres drops 350 metres (1,200 feet), main­ the more subdued relief of the foothills, (5,000 feet) above the river. taining an average current of 2 metres and a very flat section at the edge of The foothill physiographic unit dif­ (7 feet) per second. the prairies. fers considerably from the equivalent The Brazeau suddenly emerges from The mountain physiographic unit sections of many other east slope its canyon into the flat forested lands extends from the Brazeau's source, rivers. Beginning near the mouth of of the last physiographic unit 22 kilo­ near Nigel Pass, to the end of the First Opabin Creek, the Brazeau has cut a metres (14 miles) below the confluence Range, about 16 kilometres (10 miles) narrow canyon through cliffs of beauti­ with the Cardinal River. It gradually above the confluence of the Southesk fully stratified reddish-black shale assumes a shallow, braided channel, River. In the 77 navigable river kilo­ which reach an average height of 60 with a flood channel up to 180 metres metres (48 miles) of this unit, the metres (200 feet), with an overburden (200 yards) wide, but maintains a cur­ Brazeau descends 550 metres (1,800 of light-coloured glacial till. Cobble rent of about 1 % metres (6 feet) per feet), attaining a gradient of over 19 bars furnish an abundance of good second all the way to Brazeau Reservoir. metres per kilometre (100 feet per Adjoining hills are less than 30 metres mile). The major drops occur in 3 can­ (100 feet) high. yons which require portages. The Bra­ zeau Gorge and Second Canyon are 22

Flora iographic unit, where the spruce forest are abundant in the dense forest of the A trip down the entire river includes a becomes extremely dense. flat land unit. sampling of at least 4 different ecol­ In the canyon of the foothill unit, the Bird life present in the area includes ogical zones, from alpine meadows to spruce is joined by balsam, poplar, harlequin ducks, sandpipers and dip­ lowland forest. The uppermost portion willow, aspen and birch. Wild flowers pers in the fast water of the upper river, of the Brazeau valley is close to the and berries are abundant on gravel bars and mergansers, Canada geese and alpine zone, and is graced with wide and scree slopes. kingfishers in the braided section above open meadows and an abundance of In the flat lands before the Brazeau the Brazeau Reservoir. White-tailed wild flowers and stunted spruce. The Reservoir, there is a densely forested ptarmigan are present on the rock portage route through Nigel Pass area, where poplar, aspen and water slopes around Nigel Pass. The upper crosses true alpine meadows with a birch increasingly replace spruce. river offers excellent fishing for Dolly characteristic flora. Not far down the Varden, and rainbow trout are also valley, the spruce forest thickens, and Fauna present. trees attain considerable heights. Large mammals are one of the Brazeau Stands of lodgepole pine occasionally River's important resources. Many of replace spruce on the sites of old the ungulates move to the higher slopes burns, and wild strawberries are a during the summer, but some elk, common attraction on gravel bars. moose, bighorn sheep and deer remain Open meadows with a variety of wild on the floor of the valley, along with flowers are frequent along the river, black bear and predators such as until near the end of the mountain phys­ wolves and coyotes. Tracks indicate the presence of elk in the canyon be­ low Opabin Creek, and sheep appear to use the canyon as a wintering area. Elk 23

The canoe trip

Nigel Pass to Upper Brazeau Forks (3 to 5 days/21 kilometres ( 13 miles) /325-metre (1,050-foot) drop in elevation) As the Brazeau enters the meadows at an elevation of 2,000 metres (6,650 feet), it is 45 metres (150 feet) wide, about 1/3-metre (1 foot) deep, and flows at 1/3-metre (1 foot) per second. The beginning is a navigable stretch which lasts for one kilometre (1/2-mile). In the next kilometre the river drops 60 metres (200 feet), entering a shal­ low but steep-banked canyon where it runs over a boulder garden. For the 1 following 2 /2 kilometres (IV2 miles), the river is as shallow as 15 centi­ metres (6 inches), and therefore un- navigable; a major portage is required to bypass this stretch. The portage begins where the pack trail crosses to the left bank, and follows that trail through the woods for 2 kilometres

The first portage of the Brazeau River trip 24

(11/3 miles) before emerging in a flat meadow about 11/2 kilometres (1 mile) above the Four Point wardens' cabin. The meadows soon disappear as the Brazeau converges into a single chan­ nel, and, within a kilometre (1 V2 miles), descends 30 metres ( 100 feet). The river is still only 2/3-metre (2 feet) deep, and abundant boulders, plus a fast current, make banging and scraping inevitable. The ride is very exciting, but aluminum canoes are a must. This stretch ends at the Four Point wardens' cabin, situated on a low bluff on the left bank. From here, the river slows to about one metre (3.3 feet) per second and deepens to as much as 1 % metres (6 feet), meandering smoothly through lush meadows graced by a variety of wild flowers. The open valley floor is about 1/2-kilometre (%-mile) wide, while pine and spruce forest covers the flanks of mountains which rise

The view from Four Point warden's cabin along the Brazeau River 25

steeply on either side. To the south­ At the foot of Marble Mountain very sitate frequent bailing. The portage is west, 3,265-metre (10,535-foot) difficult rapids begin, characterized along a faint but adequate trail on Mount Nigel and 3,550-metre (11,452- by large boulders, strong currents and the left bank. foot) Mount Athabasca are briefly standing waves up to one metre (3.3 Not far below this rapid are two visible. feet) high. Preliminary scouting is help­ major obstacles. The first is a smooth Four Point Creek considerably in­ ful. The valley narrows to little more one-metre (3.3-foot) drop over a sloping creases the river's volume, and for a than the river's width, which is about reef, which can be lined on the left. few kilometres canoeing is relatively 23 metres (75 feet). The current aver­ The Brazeau enters a shallow bedrock easy. Not long after, the Brazeau re­ ages 2 metres (7 feet) per second. canyon 30 metres ( 100 feet) past the verts to minor rapids, with frequent Good campsites abound. reef, hurling itself against the left wall rocks and shallow spots, generally on A long and very difficult rapid be­ as the canyon veers to the right. This corners. Lodgepole pine largely re­ gins an even more challenging stretch rapid may be passable, but an accident places spruce as the forest gradually of river along the base of Marble Moun­ would be very serious; prudence dic­ closes in, reaching the river banks near tain. A current of 3 metres ( 10 feet) tates a 90-metre (100-yard) portage the south end of Marble Mountain. per second makes scouting essential. along the left bank. You can end the Here there are frequent minor, shallow This rapid can be run by expert canoe­ portage at a flat spot in the middle of rapids which require bow riding or ists after scouting, but a strong, high- this short canyon if you want to run wading, and a few log ledges which bowed canoe is a must, as there are the last stretch, or you can continue may be run. The current is about 2 many very large rocks and waves. The portaging for another 180 metres (200 metres (7 feet) per second. Canoeing The river is full of obstacles, including yards), rejoining the river in a series gradually becomes more difficult as large boulders and slabs of bedrock, of easier rapids. the gradient increases to 15 metres per currents which shove a canoe against kilometre (80 feet per mile). rock walls, and standing waves up to one metre (3.3 feet) high which neces­ 26

A small meadow about 3 kilometres (2 miles) before the end of the section affords an excellent view of the sur­ rounding mountains. Below the mead­ ow, the rapids continue with a current of 1 y5 metres (6 feet) per second. An old log crib on the left, 1/2-ki'o- metre (1/4-mile) downriver, marks the start of a 2-kilometre ( 1 Vâ-mile) por­ tage around the spectacular Brazeau Gorge. There is a convenient place to stop on the left bank, about 60 metres (200 feet) below the crib. Brazeau Gorge is not indicated on the topographic maps, although a drop of 20 metres per kilometre (100 feet per mile) is shown. The river narrows in places to as little as 9 metres (30 feet) in width, plunging through bed­ rock cliffs up to 60 metres (200 feet) high. There are at least 3 impressive waterfalls, so the gorge is completely impassable.

Brazeau Gorge 27

Fortunately, the pack trail is very close to the river at the upstream end of the gorge, and makes an excellent portage route. After climbing for the first kilometre C/2-mile), the trail dips steeply downhill. From here a short walk toward the river leads to an open hillside which affords an excellent view of the gorge. The 3 waterfalls can also be seen from this point. Just 1 V2 kilo­ metres (1 mile) along the portage, ca­ noeists should follow a right fork in the trail, which is in relatively poor con­ dition compared to the main pack trail, which veers to the northwest. When 1 you have gone a /2-kilometre (Vi-mile) down the right-hand trail, the Brazeau can be heard through the trees on the right. A 60-metre (200-foot) walk through the forest leads to a good put- in point at the head of the series of passable rapids.

Brazeau Lake 28

Alternatively, the trail can be fol­ Upper Brazeau Forks to The first of several rapids, which lowed for another 450 metres (500 Southesk River add excitement but few problems to yards) to a point on the west fork of the (2 to 4 days/56 kilometres (35 the run, occurs 3 kilometres (2 miles) Brazeau opposite the Brazeau war­ miles/240-metre (770-foot) drop in below the forks. den's cabin. Both forks of the river of­ elevation) The convergence of two ridges on fer relatively easy canoeing, but the In this second section, the Brazeau either side of the river, about 8 kilo­ shorter portage to the main river is River forms the eastern boundary of metres (5 miles) below Upper Brazeau preferable. Jasper National Park, although the Forks, signals the approach of Second The 2 branches of the Brazeau meet east side of the Brazeau Valley is not Canyon. This is preceded by a short one kilometre (1/2-mile) below the end protected by park status. The river's stretch of rapids, and a current of 3 of the portage at the Upper Brazeau gain in volume makes canoeing some­ metres (10 feet) per second at the Forks, where there is a splendid camp­ what easier, with the exception of a mouth of the canyon. The canoeist site with an extraordinary view. Here, canyon and several chutes and ledges should approach the canyon with great a hike to Brazeau Lake makes an in­ near the end of the section. care, stopping on the left bank at the teresting side trip. The pack trail fol­ At Upper Brazeau Forks, the river base of a steep, open hillside. At the lows the north bank of the west fork, has a width of 30 metres (100 feet), a top of the hill, there is a choice of two joined by the main trail from Nigel current of 2 metres (7 feet) per sec­ good portages. Pass, which crosses on a bridge just ond and a depth of one metre (3.3 feet). The pack trail is about 275 metres upstream from the cabin. The first 3 kilometres (2 miles) are (300 yards) back from the river, 21/2 1 very easy, as it flows through a flat- kilometres (1 /2 miles) long, and in ex­ bottomed valley one kilometre (1/2- cellent condition. The alternative is mile) wide. On all sides are towering less straightforward, but more inter­ mountains and there are many beau­ esting. A game trail along the canyon tiful campsites. 29

rim provides a scenic route for a ly^-kilometre (1-mile) portage to the end of the impassable white water. The portage has a few small ups and downs, but skirts the spectacular gorge for its entire length. Second Canyon begins with a series of very difficult rapids, where the river narrows to as little as 3 metres ( 10 feet), plunging between the 60-metre (200-foot) cliffs. Next comes one kilometre (1/2-mile) of continuous white water, followed by the impressive 10-metre (30-foot) Brazeau Falls and a number of smaller chutes. The portage can end below the last chute. The rest of the canyon can be run, except for a ledge just be­ fore the sharp right bend in the river, which can easily be lined along the right bank. Below the canyon, the Brazeau slows to 1 y5 metres (6 feet) per second and its rapids are easily run. The river is about 30 metres (100 feet) wide, with

Brazeau Falls 30

an average depth of one metre (3.3 occasional mid-stream boulder, usually a portage of 135 metres ( 1 50 yards) feet). Good campsites are abundant. easy to avoid. In a few places, scouting along the steep left bank. The right 1 1 On the left bank a /2-kilometre ( /4- is helpful. bank is unsuitable, due to steep cliffs mile) below the end of the canyon, a Opabin Creek provides a possible rising 45 metres ( 1 50 feet) above the small warden's cabin is visible from the access route to the Brazeau. The Black- river. river. Canoeing remains easy past the stone River Road approaches to within At a slight right-hand bend, 4 kilo­ mouth of Job Creek, which spills over 61/2 kilometres (4 miles) of the Bra­ metres (21/2 miles) above the Southesk a wide alluvial fan on the right bank. zeau and a pack trail follows Opabin River, an impassable 3-metre (10-foot) Below Job Creek is a short braided Creek down to the river. falls necessitates a 90-metre (100- stretch marked by the odd sweeper or The Brazeau begins its return to a yard) portage. The easiest route is to log jam, after which the Brazeau slows narrow, incised valley 91/2 kilometres climb a steep but reasonably open down and begins to meander within (6 miles) above the confluence of hillside on the right, and then slide the a wide valley. the Southesk River, passing beneath canoes 30 metres (100 feet) down to Skirting the base of Tarpeian Rock, 30-metre (100-foot) cliffs. Just beyond a gravel bar just below the falls. the Brazeau alternates between a a sharp right bend is a one-metre (3.3- Below the falls is a series of rapids, straight channel up to 45 metres ( 1 50 foot) ledge which might be runnable, including a few low ledges, where feet) wide, and braided stretches with but can be easily lifted over on the scouting is helpful. The river averages as many as 3 channels. About 11/2 right. There are 2 formidable chutes 30 metres (100 feet) in width and 1% 1 kilometres (1 mile) before Opabin in succession, one kilometre ( /2-mile) metres (4 feet) in depth, with a cur­ 1 Creek, a series of rapids begins. These farther downstream, preceded by some rent of 2 /2 metres (8 feet) per second. are characterized by standing waves low ledges. The river first converges The Southesk River emerges sud­ of up to one metre (3.3 feet) and the into a narrow falls about 3 metres ( 10 denly from its own canyon, affording feet) high, which are soon followed a view southwest to the north flank 1 by another drop of 2 /2 metres (8 feet). of Mount Dalhousie. These chutes are impassable, requiring 31

Southesk River to 17 kilometres (11 miles) below the Forestry Trunk Bridge. (1 to 2 days/59 kilometres (37 miles)/300-metre (985-foot) drop in elevation) Below the mouth of the Southesk River, the canyon narrows to force the Bra- zeau through a channel 12 metres (40 feet) wide. In the centre the water is smooth, and from here on, the river is relatively easy for a while, as standing waves rushing against the base of the dark shale cliffs can generally be avoided by taking the inside of the corners. A one-metre (3.3-foot) ledge, 4 kilo­ metres (21/2 miles) below the Southesk River, necessitates lining on the right. A small rapid at the next corner is worth scouting, but can be run without trouble on the left. 1 Only 1 /2 kilometres (1 mile) far­ ther on, a series of fast rapids precedes a major waterfall which is indicated

View from the Falls toward the Southesk River 32

on the 1:50,000-scale topographic standing waves just around the corner. another rapid one kilometre (Vi-mile) map. The rapids can be lined along the An accident here would be extremely downstream. The cliffs briefly con­ right bank to within 30 metres ( 100 serious. verge to as little as 15 metres (50 feet) feet) of the falls. Canoeists should not Downstream from the falls, rock apart, but there is surprisingly little attempt to run these rapids, as the cliffs maintain a height of up to 60 me­ river turbulence. There is another rap­ slippery banks would make it very dif­ tres (200 feet), but there are abundant id IV2 kilometres (1 mile) down­ ficult to stop before the falls. Just campsites on gravel and sand bars. stream, with standing waves up to 1V4 above the falls, a steep forested bank Canoeing becomes easier, with the metres (4 feet) high; this may be run. must be climbed, to begin a portage of exception of a rapid, one kilometre A rapid with tricky back-eddies on about a 1/2-kilometre (i/^-mile) which (Vi-mile) above Thistle Creek, where either side of the centre channel occurs ends at the first convenient place to scouting is advisable before running. a 1/2-kilometre (Vi-mile) below the descend the bank, well below the falls. Thistle Creek is a small stream which mouth of Coast Creek. This rapid is The falls are about 3 metres (10 feet) enters the river via a densely forested the last major obstacle before the high, and the river plunges through gully. Below Thistle Creek, the Brazeau Forestry Trunk Road bridge. 1 a narrow notch in the rock, creating has a vigorous current of 2 /2 metres The confluence of the Cardinal River considerable turbulence at the base. (8 feet) per second, and is an average offers another access point to the Bra­ Expert canoeists may wish to lower of 30 metres (100 feet) wide and zeau, as a gravel road crosses the Car­ their empty canoes into the pool below 1 % metres (4 feet) deep. dinal on a bridge just upstream from the falls, via a high-water channel on Just over 61/2 kilometres (4 miles) its mouth. The Forestry Trunk Road the right, but the run is complicated by past Thistle Creek, a dangerous rapid bridge is located 5 kilometres (3 miles) heavy, rapidly changing boils, and can be bypassed by lining for 30 me­ downstream from the Cardinal River. some unavoidable 1V4-metre (4-foot) tres (100 feet) down the left bank. The bridge is 69 kilometres (43 miles) Boulders and high standing waves north of the Trunk Road's junction complicate the passage, but this rapid might be run after scouting. There is 33

with the David Thompson Highway at the left. The next 11 kilometres (7 Seventeen kilometres (11 miles) Nordegg. An Alberta Forest Service miles) of the Brazeau are a continuous below the Forestry Trunk Road campground is situated on the right series of rapids interspersed with bridge to Brazeau Reservoir bank at the bridge. stretches of choppy water, with waves (1 to 2 days/70 kilometres (44 A sharp left bend, one kilometre of up to 2/3-metre (2 feet) high. The miles)/210-metre (680-foot) drop (1/2-mile) below the bridge, signals major rapids have few rocks, but stand­ in elevation) the beginning of a long white-water ing waves as high as 11/4 metres (4 In this section, the Brazeau River stretch. It begins with a rapid, with feet) are often unavoidable, so the ca­ leaves the foothills of the Rockies and standing waves up to 1 % metres (4 noeist should be prepared to bail fre­ enters the flat forested lands at the feet) high; there is a similar rapid a quently. This final white-water stretch edge of the prairies. Despite a lack of 1/2-kilometre (l/4-mile) farther down­ completes a generally interesting and topographic relief, the river and its stream. Below this point the river is demanding section, as the cliffs ab­ surroundings remain invigoratingly choppy, with frequent easy rapids char­ ruptly yield to low, densely forested wild. The enclosed, high-banked valley acterized by large waves but few rocks. hills, 17 kilometres (11 miles) below of the previous section is replaced by Along this stretch, the Brazeau is the Forestry Trunk Road bridge. a wide channel, flanked by hills no about 45 metres ( 150 feet) wide, with more than 30 metres (100 feet) high. a mean depth of 1 Yz metres (5 feet) The forest is a dense mixture of pop­ and a current of 2Yz metres (8 feet) lar and spruce, and there are frequent per second. Just after the river bends open areas, suitable for campsites, sharply to the south, 61/2 kilometres along the banks or on gravel bars. (4 miles) below the Forestry Trunk Gradually, the Brazeau assumes a Road bridge, there are 2 consecutive braided form, expanding in places to ledges, totalling a drop of 1 Va metres 90 metres (300 feet) in width, and (4 feet); these can be run or lined on averaging a 2/3-metre (2 feet) in depth; 34

the current is 2 metres (7 feet) per Brazeau Reservoir (2 miles) before the dam, a dirt road 1 second. At medium flow, the river is ( /2 day/12 kilometres (8 miles)/ parallels the southeast shore and is ac­ generally unobstructed, as the log jams no change in elevation) cessible from the reservoir at several which form during the spring flood are The Brazeau Storage Dam is located points. The road connects with routes left stranded on the banks. 48 kilometres (30 miles) upstream to Drayton Valley and Rocky Mountain Near the mouth of Blackstone River beyond the Brazeau's confluence with House. the total width of the flood channel the North Saskatchewan at Brazeau is several hundred metres, while the Forks. As the wild Brazeau ends at main channel may be as narrow as the head of the reservoir, the scene 30 metres (100 feet), averaging one changes dramatically. Despite govern­ metre (3.3 feet) in depth. Canoeing ment clean-up operations, numerous remains fast and easy, though choosing dead trees and stumps mark the ex­ the best channel to avoid running posed shores. The upper end of the aground requires some skill. reservoir is usually very shallow, and Above the Brazeau Reservoir the dead trees and logs are stranded or river temporarily flows through an en­ floating in large jams everywhere. The closed valley, as the hills and the spruce and poplar forest is very dense exposed sandstone faces, typical of along the shores. A rough road, per­ this region, sometimes attain a height haps used for the clearing operations, of 30 metres (100 feet) above the appears to reach the head of the re­ river. In the last stretch, dead and servoir on the north shore. Floating fallen trees line the banks, perhaps debris gradually thins out toward the the result of an increase in the height east end of the reservoir and the ca­ of the water table due to the reservoir. noeist should have little trouble finding a clear route. For the last 3 kilometres 35

3 Clearwater River 36

Clearwater River Access and egress

Trident Lake to Rocky Mountain House Road access to the Clearwater is lim­ Access to the uppermost Clearwater, (see map, page 10) ited to its lower 160 kilometres (100 within Banff National Park, is limited miles). The all-weather Forestry Trunk to a good pack trail on the north bank, Length Road crosses it near the Clearwater and to helicopters, which are not nor­ 5 to 7 days/203 kilometres (127 Ranger Station and again approaches mally permitted to land within the park. miles)/2 to 4 portages the river in the Seven Mile Flats on The pack trail follows the Clearwater the north bank. From here, a dirt road, Valley to a pass where it connects with Date of Survey the condition of which depends on trails from the Siffleur and Pipestone mid-July 1973 (at medium water the weather, crosses the Clearwater to Rivers to the north and west. The levels) follow the valley of Cutoff Creek for egress point, Rocky Mountain House, 26 kilometres (1 6 miles), before grad­ is located on Highway 11. ually deteriorating, just short of the Clearwater, near the mouth of Timber Creek. Winch-equipped four-wheel- drive vehicles can continue a short dis­ tance beyond Timber Creek. Otherwise a short portage may be required to reach the river. 37

Maps required About the river

(N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Geography From Trident Lake, the Clearwater 83 B Rocky Mountain House Like other rivers on the eastern slope makes a swift descent through a valley 1 82 O Calgary of the Rockies, the Clearwater can be 1 /2 kilometres (1 mile) wide, walled 82 N Golden divided into three distinct physio­ by high mountains. Forming a shallow graphic units. For its first 65 kilometres braided channel in a cobble bed, the (N.T.S. 1:50,000 scale) (40 miles), the river flows through the current averages 21/2 metres (8 feet) 82 N/16E Siffleur River Rocky Mountains. Then it winds an­ per second. In the 56 kilometres (35 82 0/13W&E Scalp Creek other 56 kilometres (35 miles) through miles) of the mountain physiographic 83 B/4E Cripple Creek the foothills, before spilling out onto unit, the Clearwater drops 350 metres 83 B/3W&E Tay River the prairies for the last 95 kilometres (1,130 feet), attaining a gradient of 82 0/14 Limestone Mountain (60 miles) of its length. up to 19 metres per kilometre ( 100 feet The Clearwater River's original per mile) in a few places. The flow source is a glacier on the flank of Mount rate of a mountain river usually fluc­ Willingdon, a 3,429-metre (11,066- tuates widely from day to day. The foot) peak. However, it is really no Clearwater's daily flow rate is unchar­ more than a small stream until it acteristically stable, apparently be­ reaches Trident Lake, 1,887 metres cause of the effect of its large headwa­ (6,090 feet) above sea level, where it ter lakes; however, seasonal variations is swollen by the waters of Martin in the river's flow are enormous. and Roaring creeks. Trident Lake is Near Washout Creek, the sharp situated at the confluence of three gla­ peaks of the Rockies yield to gentler, ciated valleys, each surrounded by heavily forested foothills. In this unit, spectacular limestone mountains over narrow stretches of single channel 3,000 metres (10,000 feet) high. 38

alternate with a braided channel run­ grass meadows. On the higher moun­ number of small mammals, including ning through wide meadows. Bedrock tain slopes the forest yields to alpine mink, marten, squirrels and chip­ reefs occasionally replace the cobble meadows, where open areas along the munks. Beaver join the list of mammals bottom, creating minor rapids. banks of creeks and lakes are carpeted present along the lower river. Corkscrew Mountain marks an ab­ with a tremendous variety of wild- Ducks and red-winged blackbirds rupt change from the foothills to the flowers; at least 50 different species nest in the marshes around Trident edge of the prairies. In its final 95 kilo­ bloom near the river in mid-summer. Lake, but the Clearwater River itself is metres (60 miles), the Clearwater runs Near the beginning of the foothill unit, generally too fast to offer good water­ through extremely flat land with al­ lodgepole pine joins spruce in the for­ fowl habitat. Ducks, notably mergan­ most no change in the terrain. The est, followed later by aspen and balsam sers, are more frequent in the last 95 river is braided until the last 25 kilo­ poplar. On the lower Clearwater, pop­ kilometres (60 miles). metres (15 miles), where sandstone lar, spruce and cottonwood form an The river supports an intensive fish­ cliffs restrict it to a single channel. increasingly dense forest, but wild- ery for brown, cutthroat and rainbow River water remains suitable for drink­ flowers — at least 50 different species — trout, Eastern brook trout, Dolly Var- ing until shortly before Rocky Moun­ bloom near the river in mid-summer. den, and Rocky Mountain whitefish. tain House, where agricultural runoff Dolly Vardens and rainbows inhabit may introduce some bacterial con­ Fauna the headwater lakes, while all six spe­ tamination. The headwaters of the Clearwater River cies occur in the foothill and prairie provide an excellent habitat for a va­ units. Flora riety of mammals. Sheep, goats and The upper Clearwater Valley is char­ elk generally summer on the higher acterized by a medium-density spruce slopes, but some elk remain on the forest, interspersed with willow and valley floor, which is also an important wintering area. Moose, deer and bear are also present, along with a large 39

The canoe trip

Trident Lake to Timber Creek (2 days/38 kilometres (24 miles)/ 300-metre (1,000-foot) drop in elevation) The first section of the Clearwater is not easily accessible. Trident Lake is situated southeast of Martin and Clear­ water lakes, in the Clearwater Valley of eastern Banff National Park. From Trident Lake the distance to Clear­ water Lake is about 31/2 kilometres (2 miles), and to Martin Lake, one kilo­ metre ( 1/2-mile). The 3 lakes are easily accessible via a horse trail adjacent to the shores of the Clearwater River, and are enhanced by spectacular moun­ tains over 3,000 metres (10,000 feet) high and green forests of spruce. As the trip begins from Trident Lake, the descent is swift, with a very even gradient of 7 metres per kilometre (40 feet per mile) during the first 3 kilo­ metres (2 miles), and a velocity of 1 VA metres (4 feet) per second. The river is 15 metres (50 feet) wide with a

The outlet of Trident Lake, the start of the Clearwater River trip 40

mean depth of 1 1/4 metres (4 feet); it The river maintains a very fast pace corner, and constant care is needed to becomes wider but shallower as it and descends 15 metres per kilometre avoid the unpleasant surprise of half- descends. (80 feet per mile) to a point near the submerged logs. The channel is generally single, with mouth of Indianhead Creek. At medium At Peter's Creek the Clearwater frequent sharp curves complicated by flow, this stretch is runnable, but re­ River leaves Banff National Park. Im­ log jams. The steep or hummocky quires canoes able to withstand the mediately downstream, dead-heads, banks are unsuitable for camping. shock of frequent scrapings on gravel sweepers, log jams and tight corners 1 In the last 1 /2 kilometres (1 mile) bars. persist, while hoodoos tower above before Malloch Creek, the river drops Between Malloch and Indianhead good camping spots. The river is 30 metres (100 feet), according to creeks, cliffs appear briefly, and the braided, with a total width of several the topographic maps. Nonetheless, channel varies between single and hundred metres and an average depth experienced canoeists should be able braided. Usually there is only one ma­ of one metre (3.3 feet). The main chan­ to navigate the tight corners, mid­ jor channel that stands out, which nel is deep enough for canoeing, but stream boulders and occasional shal­ may be anywhere from 15 to 30 metres is often congested with log jams and low places. At low water, as in August (50 to 100 feet) wide. Campsites are sweepers. and September, the canoes might fairly abundant on low terraces ad­ A new river bed is in the making have to be hauled over shallows. jacent to the river, or on sandy cobble 3 kilometres (2 miles) upstream from Just before Malloch Creek, the bars along the braided channels. Forbidden Creek, where erosion since spruce forest yields to willow meadows Near Peter's Creek, sweepers are the spring of 1972 has suddenly cut where good campsites can be found. found at every corner. Most of the time a channel through dense forest. The There is a designated campsite on the whirlpools or dead water follow a tight Clearwater has abandoned its former left bank, a 1/i-kilometre (Vi-mile) stream bed on the north side of the above the confluence of Malloch Creek. valley and ventured to the south. The route through the trees is difficult, as 41

water, mud, mosquitoes, log jams and Timber Creek to Forestry Truck Standing waves up to one metre (3.3 deadfalls must be crossed. However, Road Bridge feet) high are found in these narrows. it is possible, although it may necessi­ (1 to 2 days/53 kilometres (33 The Clearwater soon enters a valley tate a few short portages. This parti­ miles)/300-metre (1,000-foot) drop which widens progressively from one 1 1 cular stretch of river is quite likely to in elevation) to 1 /2 kilometres ( /2 to 1 mile), with vary from year to year. Timber Creek is the farthest point ac­ hills up to 300 metres (1,000 feet) In the last few kilometres of the cessible by road on the Clearwater high above the river, especially from section there are abundant and excel­ River. From there on, the mountains Elk Creek downstream. lent campsites along the river. continue briefly on the right and for Before heading north along Elk some time on the left. The river remains Creek, the Forestry Trunk Road briefly mostly braided, with a main channel approaches the Clearwater in the Idle- width of 1 5 metres (50 feet), which wild Meadows, providing another provides excellent canoeing, aided by access possibility. The canyon stretch a current of up to 3 metres (10 feet) which follows has some mild rapids. per second. As in the previous section, Near Cutoff Creek, 5 kilometres (3 sweepers, stumps and log jams are miles) below the steel bridge, there the main obstacles. Willow meadows is a short rapid formed by a bedrock offer good campsites. Spruce gradu­ ledge, followed by many midstream ally yields a share of the forest to boulders. There is a series of small lodgepole pine. ledges and boulders 30 metres (100 Washout Creek roughly coincides feet) further on. The entire rapid should with the beginning of choppy sections, be runnable after scouting. Immediate­ which occur where the river narrows ly downstream, the Clearwater River every 90 metres (100 yards) or so. 42

spreads out into the Seven Mile Flat, retaining one or 2 principal channels and a current of 2 metres (7 feet) per second. Soon, the river is flanked by 1,674 metre (5,400-foot) Corkscrew Moun­ tain. The Clearwater then returns for the last time to a narrow valley. Along the banks, low stone cliffs alternate with gravel bars, and log jams in the main channel become larger and in­ creasingly frequent. Conifers and pop­ lars form the main vegetation in this stretch, with some willow growth along the banks. The narrow valley continues for 8 kilometres (5 miles) to the Forestry Trunk Road Bridge near the Clearwater Ranger Station. The ranger station marks the end of this section, and provides a convenient access or egress point.

The lower Clearwater River 43

Forestry Trunk Road Bridge to Ricinus Bridge (1 to 2 days/34 kilometres (21 miles)/170-metre (550-foot) drop in elevation) This section is easily accessible from the Forestry Trunk Road, and offers good canoeing, varying from easy to difficult. Below the bridge, log jams are extremely large and numerous, and can obstruct a channel completely, requiring either portaging or hauling in order to bypass them. Canoeists should be capable of stopping quickly; otherwise these log jams can be quite dangerous. Since the river is often cluttered and there is little change in scenery for long distances, this section is less in­ teresting than the upper Clearwater River; however, it does offer a chal­ lenge to quick action, with a current of 2 metres (7 feet) per second. The river remains braided, with one or 2

The Clearwater River near Idlewilde Mountain 44

main channels, 15 to 30 metres (50 to Ricinus Bridge to Rocky Mountain the Clearwater add a wild note to an 100 feet) wide, and a one-metre (3.3- House otherwise peaceful part of the river. foot) average depth. (1 day/55 kilometres (34 miles)/120- Dovercourt Bridge is a new struc­ Vegetation consists mostly of spruce metre (400-foot) drop in elevation) ture, built in 1973. The current acceler­ and deciduous species, such as pop­ The highway bridge at Ricinus, reached ates to 1 Va metres (4 feet) per second lar, aspen, cottonwood, water birch by road via Caroline, is 120 kilome­ here, and maintains this velocity for and willows. Campsites are numerous tres (75 miles) southwest of Red Deer the remainder of the section. The main in this section, and there is an abun­ and only 40 kilometres (25 miles) characteristics of the last stretch are dance of firewood. south of Rocky Mountain House. a width of roughly 60 metres (200 Near Ricinus Bridge, the low sand­ Downstream from the bridge, the feet), an average depth of one metre stone cliffs typical of this region appear channel tends to be straight and the log (3.3 feet), plus infrequent but excel­ briefly. On the left bank just below jams thin out somewhat. lent campsites. Cows, beaver and deer the new bridge, a grocery store, gas About 25 kilometres (15 miles) share this last section. station and accommodations are avail­ below the bridge, the Clearwater River Only 3 kilometres (2 miles) sepa­ able. The current at this point is 2 me­ resumes a single channel, with very rate the Clearwater Bridge and the tres (7 feet) per second. easy canoeing which lasts until its con­ North Saskatchewan/Clearwater con­ The Ricinus Bridge is an excellent fluence with the North Saskatchewan fluence. Another kilometre farther spot to finish your trip, after a particu­ River. downstream on the North Saskatche­ larly demanding section. Or you could From 8 kilometres (5 miles) above wan is the David Thompson Bridge, take a short rest, and begin a more Dovercourt Bridge, cows can be sighted which crosses the river at Rocky Moun­ relaxing stretch that could terminate in a few places and farms become tain House. at either Dovercourt or Rocky Moun­ more and more frequent. From here Rocky Mountain House has all serv­ tain House. on, the river forms a deep single chan­ ices, including a car rental agency, nel and slows to one metre (3.3 feet) motels and stores. per second. Sandstone cliffs framing 45

4 North Saskatchewan River 46

North Saskatchewan River Access and egress Maps required

Alexandra River to Edmonton The Alexandra River starting point can (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) (see map, page 10) be reached by a fire road, leaving the 83C Brazeau Banff-Jasper Highway 25 kilometres 82N Golden Length (16 miles) north of Saskatchewan 83B Rocky Mountain House 10 to 16 days/531 kilometres (332 Crossing. This road is not generally 83G Wabamun Lake miles)/at least 2 portages open to the public. The Banff-Jasper 83H Edmonton Highway adjoins the North Saskat­ Date of Survey chewan River at its confluence with the August 1973 Alexandra, and crosses the river 1 50 kilometres (95 miles) south of Jasper and 133 kilometres (83 miles) north of Banff. The David Thompson High­ way parallels the North Saskatchewan River from Saskatchewan Crossing to Rocky Mountain House, affording convenient access to the river at several places. The Forestry Trunk Road Bridge crosses the river 21 kilo­ metres (13 miles) below the Bighorn Dam, just 13 kilometres (8 miles) south of Nordegg. Several towns along the river, including Rocky Mountain House, Drayton Valley and Edmonton, provide good egress points with convenient services. 47

About the river

Geography for power and flood control. This pro­ nates in the upper sections, with pop­ The North Saskatchewan traverses 3 duces daily fluctuations of several me­ lar and aspen becoming increasingly distinct physiographic regions. For its tres in the river level. common farther downstream. Wild- first 95 kilometres (60 miles), the A brief foothill section is marked flowers are abundant. river follows a wide flat valley through by a narrower river valley incised 30 to the spectacular high peaks of the east­ 60 metres (100 to 200 feet) deep, Fauna ern Rocky Mountains. With the excep­ with a similar width. Banff National Park and the North Sas­ tion of one short canyon, the river is This soon yields to aspen parkland katchewan River in general are famous about 90 metres (100 yards) in width with very low hills and a valley a j/2 for wildlife, including mountain goats 2 1 1 and /3 to 1 y5 metres (2 to 6 feet) in to one kilometre ( /4 to /2-mile) wide, and sheep, elk, moose, deer, bear and depth, and is often extensively braided which continues from Rocky Moun­ a variety of small animals. Waterfowl, with a cobble bottom. A current of tain House to Edmonton. For over 320 coyotes and beaver are common as well. 1 y5 to 2 metres (6 to 7 feet) per sec­ kilometres (200 miles) there is rela­ Tributaries of the North Saskatche­ ond, and frequent easy rapids make tively little change in scenery. Those wan and nearby lakes offer excellent this a beautiful canoeing section. The variations which occur are repeated fishing for rainbow, cutthroat, brown river has marked daily and seasonal throughout the last section. trout, Easter brook trout and Dolly fluctuations in water level, caused by Varden. Below Rocky Mountain House varying rates of snowmelt. In hot spells Flora goldeye, walleye, pike and sauger re­ it becomes high and very turbid, while The North Saskatchewan basin is char­ place trout as the dominant species. in cooler weather it is rather low and acterized by a generally dense forest Downstream from Devon, river fish are clear. The Bighorn Dam introduces an consisting primarily of spruce, balsam, seriously polluted with mercury and artificial influence, beginning with poplar and aspen. Spruce predomi­ there is a standing Alberta Government the Bighorn Reservoir, which is 32 kilo­ warning against consumption of fish metres (20 miles) long. Below the below Edmonton. dam, the river is subject to regulation 48

The canoe trip

History North West companies in 1821, Fort Alexandra River to Saskatchewan In 1750, François Bigot, the Intendant Edmonton became the trade and trans­ Crossing of Québec, requested Le Gardeur de portation centre of the North Sas­ (1 day/30 kilometres (19 miles)/ Saint-Pierre to explore the Saskatche­ katchewan basin. David Thompson 60-metre (200-foot) drop in elevation) wan River, in the hope of finding a travelled from Lake Superior to the This entire section of the North Sas­ route to the Pacific Ocean. As a result, Pacific via the Saskatchewan. In 1806- katchewan River is in Banff National the river later became a main access 07 he used the new post of Rocky Park. The first few kilometres of the route for the fur trade centred on Lake Mountain House as a base during his Alexandra River run parallel to a fire Athabasca. Until the completion of the search for a feasible trade route road which offers good access to the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885, the through the mountains. upstream starting point. This dirt road "voyageurs' highway" was the fastest is not generally open to the public and way to cross Canada. Rocky Mountain its use requires advance permission House, first established by the North from Banff National Park authorities. West Company in 1799, was the head Driving conditions on the road may re­ of navigation on the North Saskatche­ quire a four-wheel-drive vehicle. wan, and each summer the York boat From the starting point at 1,488 brigades arrived to bring fresh supplies metres (4,800 feet) above sea level, and to transport the furs down to York the Alexandra River flows down a val­ 1 Factory and Hudson Bay. After the ley one kilometre ( /2-mile) wide, by amalgamation of the Hudson's Bay and snow-covered peaks with thick spruce forests at their bases. Open green meadows lie at the bottom of the val­ ley. The Alexandra River flows in a braided pattern from a glacier on Mount Rice, so the water is very cold 49

and the temperature fluctuates with the amount of melted snow. The braid­ ed river is a Vz-kilometre (i^-mjie) wide at its broadest point, with a cur­ rent of 2 metres (7 feet per second and a depth varying between 8 centimetres (3 inches) and 1 y5 metres (6feet). Low water conditions could make naviga­ tion of the river difficult, even though no serious obstacles exist in the braid­ ed stretch. The confluence of the Alexandra and the North Saskatchewan rivers is dif­ ficult to detect amid a maze of chan­ nels. The confluence is accessible from the Banff-Jasper Highway. The braided channel continues to Rampart Creek 6V2 kilometres (4 miles) below the confluence, where it narrows gradually to 23 metres (75 feet) and produces a rapid that is eas­ ily negotiated. Rampart Creek Camp­ ground, situated on the left side of the river immediately upstream from this

The North Saskatchewan River as seen from the Alexandra River 50

rapid, is the only campground along the river within the Banff National Park, and camping is restricted to this area. There is a Canadian Youth Hostel at Rampart Creek, on the east side of the Banff-Jasper Highway. The river then flows within braided channels until shortly before the mouth of Arctomys Creek. In the straight channel below the creek, a series of mild rapids are run before arriving at a canyon 11/2-kilometres (1 mile) long. At the entrance to the canyon a rapid with standing waves up to 1 1/4 metres (4 feet) high leads into a shallow, nar­ row gorge where the river forms 21/2- metre (8-foot) standing waves. A one- kilometre (1/2-mile) portage trail be­ gins on the left bank about 60 metres (200 feet) above the start of the can­ yon. Following this, canoeists may paddle for about 180 metres (200 yards) before stopping again to por­ tage the last 1/2-kilometre (%-mile).

Upstream from Saskatchewan Crossing 51

The trail begins on the left bank, just Saskatchewan Crossing to the stream from Saskatchewan Crossing, before a footbridge crossing the river, Bighorn Reservoir may be tricky, depending on the water and skirts the rim of the canyon. The (1 day/32 kilometres (20 miles)/ level. At this point the river narrows to canyon is the only serious natural 60-metre (200-foot) drop in elevation) about 30 metres (100 feet) and is obstacle on the entire North Saskat­ The paddler leaves Banff National Park flanked by high rocks. Should a por­ chewan River. 5 kilometres (3 miles) downstream tage be required, the Highway or a trail Below the canyon the river widens from Saskatchewan Crossing. This should provide a suitable route. Far­ into a braided channel for 5 kilometres braided section of the North Saskat­ ther downriver a few more such whirl­ (3 miles) before Saskatchewan Cross­ chewan River will challenge an interme­ pools are found where ledges extend ing. The paddler facing Mount Murchi- diate canoeist. The river has a sand into the river. son sees the Howse River entering and cobble bottom, an average depth A trail on the left bank leads to the from the southwest, and the Mistaya of 11/2 metres (5 feet) and a velocity of scenic Siffleur Falls, situated about River from the south, 11/2 kilometres 1 % metres (6 feet) per second. The 5 kilometres (3 miles) upstream from (1 mile) above the highway bridge. David Thompson Highway, which fol­ the confluence with the Siffleur River. Under the bridge, a bit of excitement lows the left bank, is rarely seen from The head of the new Bighorn Reservoir is provided by a slight rapid. the river. is 5 kilometres (3 miles) below the The North Saskatchewan flows Siffleur River. through a gradually widening valley, flanked by high mountains at its upper levels. Adjacent grasslands and nu­ merous sand and gravel bars offer ex­ cellent campsites. The large back-eddies of Whirlpool Point, 21 kilometres (13 miles) down­ 52

Bighorn Reservoir and Bighorn Dam (1 day/32 kilometres (20 miles)/ no drop in elevation) This third section consists of the Big­ horn Reservoir, also known as Lake Abraham.The reservoir has submerged 5,480 hectares (13,700 acres) of land that was once part of the Kootenay Plains. The reservoir basin, now metic­ ulously cleared of brush and timber, is surrounded by high snow-covered peaks, their lower slopes covered with a spruce and pine forest. Because of the strong winds characteristic of the North Saskatchewan Valley, the reser­ voir may be completely unnavigable on a windy day. At least an hour should

Upstream from the mouth of the Siffleur River 53

be reserved for the portage over Big­ horn Dam. A well-hidden rough road on the left provides a convenient route past the dam. The power house water intake is to be avoided. For those wishing to end the trip here, the northwest arm of the reser­ voir serves as a supplementary spill­ way, affording convenient access to the David Thompson Highway.

The Bighorn Reservoir as seen from the Dam 54

Bighorn Dam to Rocky Mountain silt which has settled in the reservoir. At "The Gap" the river gradually House The braided channel occupies a wide narrows as it squeezes through a break (2 to 4 days/130 kilometres (81 valley until a few kilometres before in the Brazeau Range. Here, it winds miles)/300-metre (1-000 foot) drop the gap in the Brazeau Range; there it through a series of rapids and minor in elevation) narrows to about 30 metres (100 feet), whirlpools with a current of 1 % metres Flow regulation at the Bighorn Dam only to widen again below Shunda (6 feet) per second. The small stand­ has drastically altered the downstream Creek. Along the banks, spruce is ing waves provide an exciting ride character of the North Saskatchewan. increasingly replaced by shrubs and with little danger. Once known for its powerful rapids poplars, while the high mountains In the 11 kilometres (7 miles) be­ with huge standing waves, this section slowly disappear beyond the horizon. tween The Gap and Shunda Creek, a is now a relatively tame stretch. How­ The North Saskatchewan picks up continuous series of rapids provides ever, since the water level fluctuates volume and silt as it meets the Big­ interesting but relatively easy canoe­ up to 1/2-metre (2-feet) daily, any dif­ horn, Ram and Clearwater rivers. Nu­ ing. Standing waves, up to one metre ficulty you encounter with the rapids merous camping spots are available (3.3 feet) high, are the only obstacles will probably depend on the time you in the braided channel stretch. encountered. Just above Shunda Creek, reach them. Canoeists and campers (A series of impressive falls can be high standing waves in the right chan­ should remember that the river may seen on the Bighorn River 8 kilometres nel may be avoided by hugging the rise quickly, carrying away both canoes (5 miles) upstream from its confluence gravel bar or taking the left channel. and campsites placed below the high- with the North Saskatchewan. Hikers Shunda Creek enters from a generally water mark. who wish to follow the river should ask flat area north of the river. Throughout this section the river has permission from the local Indian band From the Ram River on, frequent a current of 11/2 metres (5 feet) per before crossing the Bighorn River.) standing waves of up to 1% metres second, and the water is clear of the (4 feet) provide an exciting run for covered canoes. Devil's Elbow, a right- hand corner about 14 kilometres (9 55

miles) downstream from the confluence Rocky Mountain House to miles) or so, and an average current of the Ram River, must be run on the Edmonton of 2 metres (7 feet) per second. inside of the corner. Some of the rapids (4 to 8 days/307 kilometres ( 192 The Brazeau River is a major tribu­ could offer more difficulty in higher miles)/356-metre (1,150-foot) drop tary, about 90 metres (100 yards) wide water, but all of them could also easily in elevation) at its mouth; its relatively clear green be portaged or lined. This section of the North Saskatchewan water contrasts with the North Saskat­ The present town of Rocky Moun­ offers relatively easy canoeing in a chewan's turbid brown. The North tain House, with a population of 3,200, generally wild, though not wilderness, Saskatchewan is still subjected to the is a 11/2-kilometre (1-mile) walk from setting. The scenery is unappealing, regulating influence of the Bighorn the east side of the road bridge. but the journey is enlivened by occa­ Dam at this point, and to a similar in­ sional sightings of deer, coyote and fluence by the Brazeau River, which beaver, as well as birds such as herons, is also dammed. hawks, kingfishers, an.i cliff and bank Blue Rapids, about 19 kilometres swallows. Farms, oil wells and the odd (12 miles) below Brazeau Forks, may dirt road are often spotted below the once have been an obstacle, but it is confluence of the Baptiste River. Low, now undistinguished from the rest of densely forested banks alternate with of the river. Drayton Valley, a town exposed sandstone cliffs up to 60 of 3,700 people, lies 160 kilometres metres (200 feet) high. These gradu­ (100 miles) downstream from Rocky 1 ally give way to a valley with a very Mountain House. The town is 2 /2 kilo­ low profile. The river has a braided metres (IV2 miles) from the Highway channel for the first 50 kilometres (30 56

57 bridge, and offers most facilities. The ferries indicated on the topogra­ phic maps around Keephills and Hug- get no longer exist, but a bridge now crosses the river about 19 kilometres (12 miles) upstream from Strawberry Creek. Upon passing the town of Devon, paddlers will notice increasing signs of civilization as they draw nearer to Edmonton. The current is sluggish for the last 48 kilometres (30 miles). A campground at White Mud Creek pro­ vides one point of egress, although 1 it is only 6 /2 kilometres (4 miles) farther to the city's downtown section. Emily Murphy Park, on the right bank just below the Groat Road Bridge, is a convenient place to end the trip. Ed­ monton provides a big-city finish to a river trip, as it is both the capital of Alberta and the largest city in the prov­ ince, with a population of over 450,000. 57

5 Red Deer River 58

Red Deer River Access and egress Maps required

Rocky Mountains to Saskatchewan The Red Deer River is accessible up to, (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) River (see map, page 10) and beyond, the boundary of Banff Na­ 820 Calgary tional Park, via a dirt road which fol­ 83B Rocky Mountain House Length lows the river past Mountain Aire Lodge 83A Drumheller 1 5 to 20 days/744 kilometres (465 and Ya Ha Tinda Ranch. Mountain Aire 72M Oyen miles)/2 to 6 portages Lodge can also be reached by the For­ 72L Medicine Hat estry Trunk Road, which runs north 72K Prelate Date of survey and south through the Rocky Mountain early June 1973 (at medium-to-high Forest Reserve and reaches Highway (N.T.S. 1:50,000 scale) water levels) 1A, 61 kilometres (38 miles) west of (these are an asset up to Sundre, but Calgary. Another access route to Moun­ after that are superfluous) tain Aire Lodge is a 41-kilometre (32- 820/12 N & E Barrier Mountain mile) dirt road, which leads west from 820/11 N & E Burnt Timber Creek Highway 27 near Sundre. 820/10 N & E Fallen Timber There are many points suitable for 820/15 N & E Bearberry egress between the headwaters and the town of Empress, Alberta, the termi­ Note of caution nation point of this trip. Major towns Water quality is satisfactory for drink­ include Sundre, Red Deer, and Drum- ing in the upper section of the Red Deer heller. River, but below Sundre agricultural drainage into the river makes it desir­ able to carry drinking water. 59

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Fauna Ya Ha Tinda Ranch to Sundre The Red Deer River runs through 3 dis­ Abundant wildlife in a natural setting (2 to 3 days/88 kilometres (55 miles)/ tinct physiographic regions: the foot­ is a definite attraction of the Red Deer 511-metre (1,650-foot) drop in hills of the Rocky Mountains; the River. Although gold-eye are present, elevation) prairies; and the dry, low badlands. the fishing is not particularly good. From Ya Ha Tinda Ranch, a road that However, certain tributaries are said parallels the river can be followed to a Flora to be quite productive, particularly convenient spot for a short carry down The river valley is never bare of vege­ where they meet the Red Deer. Wild­ to the water. The river appears to be tation throughout the trip; only the life along the upper reaches of the navigable for at least 16 kilometres density changes. The upper valley floor river includes sheep, goat, elk, moose (10 miles) upstream from this starting consists mainly of open meadows, in­ and bear. Pronghorn antelope, coyotes, point, which is roughly 30 kilometres terspersed with growths of poplar. mule deer, white-tailed jackrabbits (18 miles) above Mountain Aire Lodge Later, spruce and poplar dominate the and badgers are among the common and 8 kilometres (5 miles) below the forest, while willow frequently lines large mammals sighted along the lower Banff National Park boundary. It might the shore. Toward the end of the trip, reaches of the river. Also common are also be possible to start at Douglas the hillsides in the badland region are Canada geese, various ducks, great blue Lake, depending on water levels and adorned with an assortment of wild herons, western grebes, ring-necked the experience of the canoeist. flowers, cacti, and tumbleweed. pheasants, Hungarian partridges, mag­ pies, long-billed curlews, golden eagles and a variety of songbirds. 60

At the upstream starting point, the Red Deer flows through a very wide valley, flanked by mountains well over 2,790 metres (9,000 feet) in height. The river has cut its own channel in­ to the valley floor and boasts walls up to 30 metres (100 feet) high in places. A braided channel, varying from 15 to 100 metres (50 to 300 feet) in width, is mainly lined with cobbles and the odd boulder. The velocity is 2y2 metres (8 feet) per second, with a mean depth of % to one metre (2 to 3.3 feet). Overall, this section is classified as difficult for canoeing. Sharp turns with overhanging sweepers or log jams, plus the odd ledge, account for this. Quite often, however, experienced canoeists can squeeze by on the inside of such turns. Except in those places where the willow growth is too heavy, there are abundant campsites on excellent surfaces.

The Red Deer River near Y a Ha Tinda Ranch 61

The river enters a steep valley with mediately precedes the bridge, making beyond the bridge, as they will find it a 465-metre ( 1,500-foot) cliff at a the approach difficult. Converging cur­ next to impossible to do so later on. point 16 kilometres (10 miles) above rents are funnelled through a gap 3 The next 8 kilometres (5 miles) of Mountain Aire Lodge. This valley con­ metres ( 10 feet) before the bridge, and river follow a straight channel that tinues for about 8 kilometres (5 miles), unpredictable currents and standing winds sharply in places, creating dif­ and loaded canoes might encounter waves should be studied before the run ficult corners due to swift currents. difficulties negotiating some of the is attempted. At the time of the survey, Many minor rapids occur, with frequent sharp turns and choppy water sections. these rapids changed from impassable standing waves of up to 1 V4 metres Cold water is a major factor here, and to runnable within a 24-hour period, (4 feet). should be considered when you are which indicates the degree to which About 8 kilometres (5 miles) below deciding whether or not to run rapids. the river level can fluctuate within a Mountain Aire Lodge there is a ledge There is a ledge which merits scout­ short time. adjacent to a large boulder on the left ing 8 kilometres (5 miles) above Moun­ Mountain Aire Lodge offers meals, bank, known locally as "Big Rock"; tain Aire Lodge. Should you decide rooms, gas and oil, a limited supply of it requires scouting. Here, water is fun­ against running it, either shore allows groceries and a telephone. nelled through a narrow passage, and easy walking. Although campsites are The Alberta Forest Service has set a hidden boulder located at the base of 1 1 infrequent in this long, steep valley, up a campground approximately 1 /4 this 1 /2-metre (5-foot) drop is a defi­ the situation changes as the confluence kilometres (3/4-mile) downstream from nite hazard. An easy carry on the left of the Panther River is reached. (The the Lodge on the left bank; it offers bank is an alternative. There is a simi­ Panther River was the site of the 1972 campsites, tables, wood, fireplaces and lar ledge 3 kilometres (2 miles) farther Canadian White-water Slalom Cham­ outhouses. Canoeists wishing to use on, and though it might be attempted pionship). this campground should stop not far in covered canoes, it should also be The river is easily navigated as far thoroughly scouted; an easy carry on as the Forestry Trunk Road bridge at the left shore is recommended instead. Mountain Aire Lodge. An island im­ 62

Farther downstream, a series of ledges stretching for 180 metres (200 yards) might be run, depending on water levels. However, regardless of water level, the rapids should be scout­ ed. Campsites along this latter stretch are quite frequent. Prior to reaching a pipeline 3 kilo­ metres (2 miles) farther on, there are frequent minor rapids, the more diffi­ cult ones occurring at sharp corners. They can usually be avoided safely by "hugging" the inside shores when turning. The submerged pipeline is distin­ guished by a clear-cut 10-metre (30- foot) right-of-way, which runs per­ pendicular to each shore, and should serve as a warning of the 2-part rapid immediately downstream. The first part can be bypassed via the left chan­ nel at high water, while the second, less than 30 metres (100 feet) away,

The Red Deer River 21 kilometres ( 13 miles) below Mountain A ire Lodge 63

should be lined for 30 metres (100 sary, the right bank is best. The cur­ swift. Should a portage be necessary, feet) along the left shore. The 1 %- rent here is 2 metres (7 feet) per both banks offer equally easy routes. metre (4-foot) standing waves offer an second. Immediately upstream from Coal­ exciting ride for covered canoes or For the next few kilometres, the Red camp Creek, a 11/4-metre (4-foot) kayaks. (This rapid was also a site of Deer River cuts through steep banks ledge, easily observed from the adja­ the 1972 Canadian White-water Slalom up to 60 metres (200 feet) high. The cent road, is hardly detectable from Championships.) river offers generally easy canoeing, water level. Significant undertow here The remainder of this stretch, to a with the current maintaining a velocity could be dangerous, should a canoe point 21 kilometres (13 miles) down­ of 2 metres (7 feet) per second. get caught at the ledge's base. Either stream from Mountain Aire Lodge, The valley broadens 13 kilometres shore can be portaged easily, and in passes through steep banks up to 30 (8 miles) above Coalcamp Creek, as low water levels the left side of the metres (100 feet) high. It is character­ the straight channel now takes on a ledge might possibly be run after care­ ized by frequent 2/3-to-1-metre (2-to- braided shape. Poplars are quite dense ful scouting. 3.3-foot) standing waves, usually avoid­ here, but they give way to clearings As many as 5 channels at a time oc­ able on inside corners. Minor ledges that make favourable campsites. Rapids cur in the braided section below Coal­ occur, but are runnable during medium here are not difficult, but log jams and camp, and cobble bars should be ap­ flow conditions. sweepers are still a hazard. proached carefully. Campsites abound At the 21-kilometre (13-mile) mark A ledge, located 3 to 5 kilometres in this section, as dense spruce and there is a small ledge which requires (2 to 3 miles) above Coalcamp Creek, poplar stands repeatedly give way to scouting. Immediately following is a should be approached with caution, as large open clearings. The mean river very difficult section which should be the current just above it is extremely depth at medium-to-high flow is 2/z to run only after careful inspection and one metre (2 to 3.3 feet). Approximately planning. The left bank of this section 8 kilometres (5 miles) upstream from is very irregular and quite steep in places; if lining or portaging is neces­ 64

Sundre, slumping 9-metre (30-foot) banks that come right to the water's edge contribute an enormous amount of silt to the Red Deer River. Canada geese, great blue herons, hawks and a variety of ducks are frequent in this last stretch, and there is much evi­ dence of beaver populations. The town of Sundre, barely visible from the river, serves as a convenient spot to end a challenging white-water trip, or to begin a more relaxed trip downstream.

The Red Deer River 8 kilometres (5 miles) above Sundre 65

Sundre to Red Deer second persists, but there are no rapids Below Penhold Bridge, agriculture (1 to 2 days/112 kilometres (70 miles) from this point to Red Deer. Low, wil­ becomes more obvious. Roughly 14 /233-metre (750-foot) drop in low-lined banks continue to alternate kilometres (9 miles) before Red Deer elevation) with 15-to-30-metre (50-to-100-foot) the river is spanned by a C.P.R. railway Downstream from Sundre, the first 32 cliffs and the occasional farm. Cattle, bridge which is one of the longest train kilometres (20 miles) of braided river geese, ducks and red-tailed hawks are trestles in Western Canada. challenge the canoeist's ability to se­ frequently sighted along the river. The city of Red Deer is preceded by lect channels that do not run out of The confluence of the Red Deer and the main highway bridge connecting water. Sweepers still await careless Little Red Deer rivers is popular with Calgary and Edmonton. Once in the paddlers, but are generally easy to local fishermen, as goldeye can be city, the river flows under a train bridge avoid. taken here, especially when the water and two city road bridges. Immedi­ Signs of civilization become in­ is clear. The remainder of the country­ ately downstream from the second road creasingly frequent, beginning with an side is somewhat uninspiring. bridge, the Lions Club Campground, oil rig on the left bank, 11 kilometres now maintained by the City of Red (7 miles) below Sundre, and followed Deer, offers the weary paddler an ex­ 13 kilometres (8 miles) later by the cellent campsite, with fireplace and Garrington Road bridge. wood plus showers and fresh water. The river resumes a straight channel 32 kilometres (20 miles) below Sundre. The current of 1 % metres (6 feet) per 66

Red Deer to Drumheller canyon create standing waves of up to from the bridge, afford an excellent (3 to 4 days/211 kilometres (132 one metre (3.3 feet), these can usually view of the river valley, both upstream miles)/178-metre (575-foot) drop in be avoided on the inside of the corners. and down. elevation) The canyon is alive with animals and About 8 kilometres (5 miles) above The river from Red Deer to Drumheller birds. Mule deer are often sighted, as the Heatburg railroad bridge, coal can be classified as easy canoeing. well as numerous ducks, geese, mag­ seams appear, accompanied by bright What this section lacks in challenging pies, swallows and hawks. sections of red and yellow shale. Pro­ water, it gains in a varied display of Farther downstream, oil rigs, tele­ gressively drier and sandier hills an­ wildlife, particularly waterfowl. phone and electrical wires, plus a ski ticipate the badlands, but the thick Heading toward the town of Bur- hill, rob the surrounding of any real willow stands which line the banks bank, approximately 21 kilometres wilderness feeling. remain. An abundance of driftwood (13 miles) past Red Deer, flat densely Just below the end of the canyon, facilitates camping here. forested banks become steeper, with 90 metres (100 yards) beyond Joffre The Nevis natural gas plant can be occasional slumping sandstone cliffs Bridge, an aeration weir should be seen from a distance, 80 kilometres reaching heights of 10 to 30 metres scouted, as it may cause problems; it (50 miles) downstream from Red Deer, (30 to 100 feet). At a sharp right turn appears runnable, except at low flow as one approaches Content Bridge. near Burbank, the grey shale of the levels. Here, fresh water can be obtained at Paskapoo formation is well exposed, An obvious widening of the river a local campground adjacent to the and the banks reputedly contain fossil valley occurs beyond Joffre Bridge. historic site of Tail Creek Town. leaves. The occasional 30-metre (100-foot) Leaving Content Bridge, the river is A canyon section, with banks as high bank offers relief. These same high 90 metres (100 yards) wide and very as 120 metres (400 feet), begins a few cliffs, 16 kilometres (10 miles) down smooth, with a current of 11/4 metres kilometres below Burbank. Although (4 feet) per second and a depth of a few minor rapids at the head of the one metre (3.3 feet). An 8-kilometre (5-mile) canyon, located just below Big 67

Valley Creek, boasts impressive 180- metre (600-foot) hills. These hills afford excellent opportunities for climb­ ing, exploration and photography. Drumheller has 3 campsites, of which 2 are directly accessible from the river. The most attractive one has adjacent showers and washrooms, and is located on the right bank just below the highway bridge.

The Red Deer River 25 kilometres (15 miles) below Drumheller 68

Drumheller to Empress Near Dorothy Ferry, located 37 kilo­ miles) along the river, and reaches up (4 to 6 days/331 kilometres metres (23 miles) downstream from to 7 kilometres (4 miles) inland. Dino­ (207 miles)/108-metre (350-foot) Drumheller, the hills begin to recede saur Park encompasses 8,800 hectares drop in elevation) from the Red Deer River as the country (22,000 acres) of the most represen­ At Willow Creek, 16 kilometres (10 flattens out. Care should be exercised tative parts of the badlands. It is the miles) downstream from Drumheller, when approaching and passing the highlight of the trip, an extremely inter­ campsites are available, but permis­ ferry, as a cable spans the river about esting area, for which 1 or 2 days sion should be obtained from the local 2/3-metre (2 feet) above the water should be set aside. farmer. At low water. Willow Creek level. Campsites are available and the Near the mouth of Alkali Creek, 16 affords easy walking to the highway, summer water temperature is around kilometres (10 miles) below Buffalo where there are some excellent exam­ 15°C (60°F). At Builpoundthe C.P.R. Bridge, the country becomes slightly ples of very large hoodoos. line, which parallels the river from more rugged. Contrary to the map's The next 16 kilometres (10 miles) Drumheller on, crosses to the right indication, no bridge exists just beyond below Willow Creek offer a view of bank. the creek. Continuing downstream, spectacular hills. These are adorned Just past the Steidville Bridge, the river turns sharply north into the by an assortment of wild flowers, cacti which marks the western boundary of "Big Bend". Prevailing winds from the and different shrubs, and petrified Dinosaur Park, the change in scenery northwest can render this stretch ex­ wood is exposed in the coulee bot­ is dramatically sudden. Here the Red hausting. But the hills invite hiking, and toms. The rock formations here give Deer River's best badlands are en­ the sandy points at river bends afford fascinating evidence of both the last countered, enhanced by an abundant excellent campsites. Driftwood is Prairie glaciation and the remarkable variety of birds and waterfowl. The somewhat rare in this stretch, and rate of erosion since that time. park stretches for 27 kilometres (17 campsites must be chosen with this in mind. 69

The new Highway 41 bridge located about 8 kilometres (5 miles) upstream from Empress provides one egress point. However, the Empress bridge is the more convenient of the two, as it is just 1 V2 kilometres (1 mile) from the centre of town.

The Red Deer River 16 kilometres (10 miles) above Tolman Crossing 70 Further reading

A History of Alberta. Hurtig, Edmonton, Corwack, R. G. H. Wild Flowers of Northwest of 16. Hurtig, Edmonton, 1972.335p. Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Y oho 1971, 224p. First published in 1958, Behold the Shining Mountains; being National Parks. Parks Canada, Depart­ a story of pioneer life in northern an account of the travels of Anthony ment of Indian and Northern Affairs, Alberta in the early 20th century. Henday, 1754-1755, the first white Information Canada, R62-7372, Patton, Brian and Bart Robinson. The man to enter Alberta. Applied Art Ottawa, 1972. Canadian Rockies Trail Guide. Products, Edmonton, 1954. Ells, S. C. "Athabaska Trail". Canada's Summerthought, Banff, Alberta, 1972. Bird, Charles D. ef. al. Alberta: A Geographical Journal. Vol. 181, No. 6, Raber, Jessie Browne. Pioneering in Natural History. W. G. Hardy, ed. June 1939. Alberta. Exposition Press, New York, Distributed by M. G. Hurtig, Edmonton, MacGregor, J. G. The Lord of the 1951.171p. 1967.343p. Twelve Foot Davis: a history of the "Report on River Canoeing in Alberta". Blankets and Beads: a history of the Peace River Country. Institute of Ap­ Canoe Alberta. Calgary 1972. Saskatchewan River. Instiute of Ap­ plied Art, Edmonton, 1952. 395p. Soper, J. Dewey. The Mammals of plied Art, Edmonton, 1949. 276p. Mair, Charles. Through the MacKenzie Alberta. Alberta Department of Indus­ Burpee, L. J. On the Old Athabaska Basin: a narrative of the Athabaska and try and Development, Queen's Printer, Trail. Ryerson Press, Toronto, 1920. Peace River treaty expedition of 1899. Edmonton, 1964. 259p. William Briggs, Toronto, 1908. 149p. "The Pioneer West". Alberta Historical McDonald, Archibald. Peace River: a Review. Calgary, n.d. canoe voyage from Hudson Bay to Pacific by the late Sir George Simpson in 1828. Malcolm McLeod, ed. J. Drurie, Ottawa, 1972. 119p. 71 Notes 72 Notes

Western Canada

Outlined areas are available in this series. Shaded area is covered by this booklet.

Now available in this series: Wild Rivers: Saskatchewan

Soon to be available: Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands Wild Rivers: The James Bay /Hudson Bay Region Wild Rivers: Southwestern Québec and Eastern Ontario Wild Rivers: Québec North Shore Wild Rivers: Labrador and Newfoundland