Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Parcs Canada Alberta Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs. INA Publication No. QS-7008-OOO-EE-AI Design: GottschalkH-Ash Ltd. This and all other reports in the Wild Rivers series will also be available in French. Wild Rivers: Alberta Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1974 2 The Kootenay Plains on the North Saskat­ chewan River 3 It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses in­ tense nervous sensation into the short­ est possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye, and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume - for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames. Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4 ©Crown Copyrights reserved Now available in this series: Available by mail from Information Wild Rivers: Saskatchewan Canada, Ottawa K1A 0S9, and at the following Information Canada book­ Soon to be available: shops: Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Halifax Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains 1683 Barrington Street Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory Montréal Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands 640 St. Catherine Street West Wild Rivers: The James Bay/Hudson Ottawa Bay Region 171 Slater Street Wild Rivers: Southwestern Québec Toronto and Eastern Ontario 221 Yonge Street Wild Rivers: Québec North Shore Winnipeg Wild Rivers: Labrador and 393 Portage Avenue Newfoundland Vancouver 800 Granville Street or through your bookseller Price $1.50 Catalogue No. R62-82/1974-2 Price subject to change without notice Information Canada Ottawa, 1974 5 Table of Contents Foreword 6 4 North Saskatchewan River: Alexandra River to Edmonton 46 The Wild Rivers of Alberta 8 Climate 8 5 Red Deer River: Planning the trip 9 Rocky Mountains to Saskatchewan River 58 Map of Wild Rivers of Alberta 10 Further reading 70 1 Smoky River: Grande Cache to Peace River 12 2 Brazeau River: Nigel Pass to Brazeau Reservoir 20 3 Clearwater River: Trident Lake to Rocky Mountain House 36 6 Foreword Wild rivers are a priceless part of our Long before Europeans laid eyes on natural heritage. These waterways, them, these rivers served the native untouched by the march of man's peoples as vital sources of both food technological progress, are the arte­ and transportation. Later, the rivers ries of our land, and one of the main were to carry the newly-arrived Euro­ elements in its growth to nationhood. peans on other voyages of exploration From the copper-coloured water­ and exploitation throughout the vast falls of the Labrador plateau, to the interior of the continent. And the set­ Canadian Shield's labyrinth of lakes tlers who followed travelled the same and streams, to the glacial torrents cut­ routes. ting through the western mountains — The waterways were the mainstay of wild rivers are all that remain unhar­ the fur trade; they were the highways nessed of those waterways which first to the gold rushes. They did much made it possible for this huge and to provide the economic nourishment varied country to be explored and through which Canada grew to its developed. present stature. With the advent of modern technol­ ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed to serve our newfound needs. But 7 thousands of miles of waterways, and Parks Canada is promoting these to describe many of the rivers, and the land they pass through, remain challenging voyages of discovery, only experienced and well-equipped essentially untouched. which embrace both the past and the canoeists should enter these waters. Today, Canadians are gradually re­ present. Wild rivers are important to You will find them a tremendous chal­ discovering these fascinating wild Canadians as integral components of lenge. So it's up to you. Our land and rivers. They are seeing nature on its our founding heritages. our rivers are waiting for you to ex­ own terms — enjoying its works from However, a good deal of down-to- plore and rediscover them. the vantage of its own highways. They earth information about the rivers and are recreating the adventures of the their habits is needed before anyone explorers; struggling over the same attempts to navigate them. It is for this portages as the heavily-burdened "cou­ reason that Parks Canada decided to reurs de bois"; running rapids which carry out surveys of wild rivers all once hurtled "voyageurs" and their across the country. We are publishing precious cargoes toward the markets the results of these surveys in the pres­ of Montréal; gently floating down ent series of booklets, in order to pro­ majestic rivers which once carried vide a practical guide for the modern thousands of anxious prospectors to­ "voyageur". ward the promise of gold. But there is one other very impor­ tant point that you must bear in mind. "Wild" really is the correct adjective 8 The Wild Rivers of Alberta Climate With thrilling rapids and glorious The region enjoys an excellent recrea­ mountain scenery, the wild rivers of tional climate from spring through fall. Alberta provide great opportunities for Summers are generally dry; what pre­ canoeists. In spite of many rapids, few cipitation there is takes the form of require long portages. In most cases, short-lived thunderstorms, and persis­ the upper reaches of these rivers are tent bad weather is very rare. In the accessible by road.Travelling Alberta's mountains and foothills the weather is wild rivers, the canoeist can enjoy true warm, but seldom hot; as you pass wilderness without getting too far from downstream, the temperature rises. centres of supply and assistance. July daily maximums average around During the high water levels of June 22° Celsius (73° Fahrenheit), while and early July the rivers are full, fast the minimums average about 8° Celsius and powerful. Extreme caution is nec­ (40° Fahrenheit). Measurable precipi­ essary to avoid log jams which may tation occurs on about 40% of summer occur at sharp bends. Conversely, at days in the headwaters, and somewhat lower water levels from mid-July on, less frequently farther downstream. obstacles in the water may lie danger­ ously close to the surface, or be com­ pletely exposed. For the most part these are long, strenuous and isolated trips, recom­ mended only for experienced river canoeists. 9 Planning the trip In planning a canoe trip allow 25 to 30 with sand or soil, and stamped down The national Topographic Series of kilometres (15 to 20 miles) per day firmly. All garbage should be packed maps are available from: paddling. Always allow extra time and out with you. Canada Map Office, food for such unforeseen events as be­ A sturdy canoe capable of handling Room 147, 615 Booth Street, ing windbound or delayed by rain. well in rapids, plus equipment for its Ottawa, Ontario K1A0E9 If egress is to be by plane make sure repair, are essential. Aluminum canoes arrangements have been made before were used throughout the wild rivers you begin the trip. surveys, and proved most practical. Be sure to check in with some re­ Since lining and hauling are often sponsible agency (the RCMP or the Al­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are berta Ministry of Lands and Forests*), essential. Several pairs of high-cut run­ giving them your route and expected ning shoes, or other sturdy footwear, time of arrival. And do not forget to which can take the abuse of rocks and check out with them at the end of the constant wetness are also needed. trip. In the more isolated regions an Permits for fires and fishing may be emergency survival kit is advisable. required. Extreme caution should be The kit should contain high-energy exercised in the use of fire. Campfires food rations, waterproofed matches, should only be built on rock or sand; fishhooks and line, and emergency afterwards they should be extinguished rescue flares for signalling aircraft. completely with water, smothered These items should be well water­ proofed; if the kit is small it could be worn on your belt. Firearms are never necessary. * Legislative Buildings, Edmonton, Alberta. 10 11 1 Smoky River 12 Smoky River Access and egress Maps required Grande Cache to Peace River Access to the Smoky River from the (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) (see map, page 10) town of Grande Cache, Alberta, is quite 83E Mount Robson simple. The town is 432 kilometres 83L Wapiti Length (270 miles) northwest of Edmonton 83M Grande Prairie 7 to 12 days/456 kilometres (285 and 634 kilometres (396 miles) north­ 83N Wingami miles)/no major portages west of Calgary by paved roads. The 84C Peace River population of Grande Cache is 3,500 Date of survey and all services are available. Other late August 1973, medium flow level points of access are the Highway 34 and Highway 49 bridges, respectively 218 and 339 kilometres (136 and 212 miles) below Grande Cache. The town of Peace River is a good point of egress, with paved roads lead­ ing from the town to Highway 2. 13 About the river Geography shale, or conglomerates.