sign in sign up
<<
Home , Confit, Dutch letter, Lattice (pastry), Parbaking, Parcooking, Pastitsio

SPECIAL COLLECTOR’S EDITION

2019 ANNUAL Every Recipe from a Full Year of America’s Most Trusted Magazine

CooksIllustrated.com $9.95 U.S. & CANADA al Taglio with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella One of the easiest you’ll ever make—no kneading, stretching, pizza peel, or stone needed Display until March 16, 2020 2019 ANNUAL

2 Shaking 41 75 Our Favorite Challah 4 Overhauling Sloppy Joes 44 How to Make Pupusas 78 Quick and Easy Italian 6 Beef Bulgogi 46 Why You Should Try Tilapia 8 al Carbón 48 A New Way to Steam Fish 80 Easiest-Ever 10 the Spanish Way 50 New England Cod and 82 North African–Style Poached Eggs 12 Chile Verde Cakes 52 Vietnamese Summer Rolls 84 French Toast Without the 14 Spanish Pork Fuss 55 Spiced Roasted Chickpeas 15 Spiral-Sliced Ham Done 86 Modern, Hearty Scrambled Right 56 Whipped Dip Eggs 16 Tuscan Grilled Pork Ribs 57 Mexican Shrimp Cocktail 88 Why You Should Make 18 Why (and How to) Roast 58 Homemade Kettle Chips Confit Duck 60 Thai Shrimp and Noodle 90 Mexico’s Most Famous 20 How to Braise Salsa Parts 62 Silky, Elegant—and from a 91 Yule Log Revival 22 The Easiest Can 94 An Uncommon Pie 24 Easy Grill-Roasted Whole 64 Beet Salad in Less Than an 96 An Easy and Modern Chicken Hour Lemon 26 Indian Butter Chicken 65 The Best Way to Boil Green 98 Apple Lover’s Apple 28 One-Pan Chicken and Beans Crumble Vegetables 66 What to Do with 100 How to Make a Better 29 Easy, Elegant Shrimp 68 A New Way to Cook Kale Blondie Risotto 69 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes 102 Best Ice Cream 30 The Original Ragu 70 New-School Sautéed 104 Chewy Peanut Butter 32 Chilled Soba Noodle Salad Mushrooms 34 Hand-Rolled 72 Spanish Potatoes with 106 The World’s Cutest 36 The Most Impressive Oil 108 Classic Bubbly Cocktails Baked 73 Pan-Steamed Asparagus 110 DIY Recipes 38 Grain Bowls at Home 74 Swiss Chard and Kale Gratin

America’s Test Kitchen is a real test kitchen located in Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country magazines and is the workday destination of more than 60 test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand exactly how and why they work and eventually arrive at the very best version. We also test kitchen equipment and taste supermarket ingredients in search of products that offer the best value and flavor. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchen.com) and Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen (CooksCountry.com) on public television and listen to our weekly segments on The Splendid Table on public radio. You can also follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Instagram.

FRONT COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE; STYLING: CATRINE KELTY EDITORIAL STAFF LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Chief Executive Officer David Nussbaum Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop Executive Managing Editor Todd Meier Deputy Editor, Special Issues Megan Ginsberg A YEAR IN THE KITCHEN: Copy Editors Christine Campbell, April Poole, Rachel Schowalter Editorial Assistants, Special Issues Tess Berger, Sara Zatopek EVERY RECIPE FROM 2019 Editor in Chief Dan Souza Editorial Director Amanda Agee Deputy Editor Rebecca Hays link in the test kitchen and you might Our Mexican Shrimp Cocktail (Cóctel de Executive Food Editor Keith Dresser miss something: a platter of roast chicken, Camarón) (page 57) is another favorite. Our inno- Managing Editor Elizabeth Bomze Deputy Food Editor Andrea Geary a plate of chewy, fudgy brownies, or a vative method uses residual, gentle heat Senior Editors Andrew Janjigian, Lan Lam bowl of fresh hand-cut pasta. Dishes to guarantee perfectly cooked shrimp. We dress the Senior Content Editor Kristina DeMichele servedB up to taste testers for feed- shrimp in a savory, tart, spicy sauce Associate Editors Steve Dunn, Annie Petito Photo Team/Special Events Manager Tim McQuinn back are often devoured in a flash. and it with creamy avocado, Lead Test Cook, Photo Team Eric Haessler The good news for us is that we test crisp cucumber, and fresh cilantro Assistant Test Cooks, Photo Team Hannah Fenton, recipes dozens of times, so there’s for a dish that’s easy to prepare for a Jacqueline Gochenouer, Christa West Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams almost always a second chance. If weeknight meal but festive enough your life moves just as fast, con- for weekend company. Executive Editors, Tastings & Testings Hannah Crowley, Lisa McManus sider this annual compendium your When it comes to , and Senior Editors, Tastings & Testings Lauren Savoie, second chance to taste every single particularly pie, I tend toward the Kate Shannon incredible recipe we developed traditional. But with our Fresh Associate Editor, Tastings & Testings Miye Bromberg Assistant Editors, Tastings & Testings over the past year. In true Cook’s Plum-Ginger Pie with Whole-Wheat Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, Carolyn Grillo, Emily Phares Illustrated fashion, we don’t just -Top Crust (page 95) I’ve tell you how to make each dish; forgotten all about apple, cherry, Creative Director John Torres Photography Director Julie Cote we also explain why our techniques Dan Souza and blueberry. We leave the skins Art Director Jay Layman and tricks work. Here are a few of on the plums for a vibrant color Graphic Designer Kristen Jones my favorites. and a filling that holds together. And thanks to our Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise, Daniel J. van Ackere Staff Photographer Kevin White On busy weeknights I love serving quick stir-fries ingenious method for making pie , we can add Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy and hearty salads. Shaking Beef (Bò Lúc Lac)̆́ (page 3) almost twice as much whole-wheat flour (for rich, Styling Catrine Kelty, Kendra McKnight, Marie Piraino, Sally Staub, Elle Simone Scott is a classic Vietnamese dish that combines the best of nutty flavor) as all-purpose flour and still achieve a both. Meaty chunks of sirloin tips are marinated crust that is ultraflaky and tender. Senior Director, Creative Operations Alice Carpenter in a savory mix of soy and fish sauces and then seared These are only a handful of the foolproof, Senior Editor, Special Projects Christie Morrison Senior Manager, Publishing Operations Taylor Argenzio before being placed atop a fresh, crisp salad of water- kitchen‑tested recipes included in the Cook’s Imaging Manager Lauren Robbins cress and softened red onion dressed with bright lime Illustrated 2019 Annual special collector’s edition. Production & Imaging Specialists Tricia Neumyer, juice. The effect is fresh and full of textural contrast. If you’re among the million or so home cooks in Dennis Noble, Amanda Yong Test Kitchen Director Erin McMurrer When the warm, long days of summer arrive, I’m the know who subscribe to the magazine, this issue Assistant Test Kitchen Director Alexxa Benson loath to turn on my oven to roast chicken. But that serves as a go-to resource for the year in recipes (and Test Kitchen Manager Meridith Lippard doesn’t mean I crave eating roast chicken any less. since individual issues have a way of going missing, Test Kitchen Facilities Manager Kayce Vanpelt Senior Kitchen Assistant Receiver Heather Tolmie That’s why I’m particularly excited about our new you now have a complete set once again). If you are Senior Kitchen Assistant Shopper Avery Lowe Easy Grill-Roasted Whole Chicken recipe (page 25). new to Cook’s Illustrated, welcome to the family. Kitchen Assistants Gladis Campos, Blanca Castanza, Amarilys Merced, Michelle Somoza The chicken requires no prep beyond trussing the We’ve been waiting, and cooking, for you. legs and cooks entirely on the grill. A small amount BUSINESS STAFF of wood chips and a short stint directly over the coals Dan Souza Chief Financial Officer Jackie McCauley Ford give the bronzed bird a hint of grill flavor. Editor in Chief Senior Manager, Customer Support Tim Quinn Customer Support Specialist Mitchell Axelson Event Coordinator Michaela Hughes FOR INQUIRIES, ORDERS, OR MORE INFORMATION Chief Digital Officer Fran Middleton Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country Magazines Cookbooks VP, Marketing Natalie Vinard Director, Audience Acquisition & Partnerships Evan Steiner Annual subscriptions (six issues per year) and We sell more than 50 cookbooks containing recipes Director, Social Media Marketing Kathryn Przybyla gift subscriptions to both Cook’s Illustrated and all developed in our test kitchen, including Vegetables Social Media Coordinators Charlotte Errity, Sarah Sandler, Cook’s Country can be ordered online. Please visit Illustrated and America’s Test Kitchen Twentieth Norma Tentori CooksIllustrated.com and CooksCountry.com Anniversary TV Show Cookbook. To order, visit our Chief Revenue Officer Sara Domville for more information. bookstore at CooksIllustrated.com/bookstore.

Director, Public Relations & Communications Brian Franklin Public Relations Coordinator Cohen CooksIllustrated.com AmericasTestKitchen.com At CooksIllustrated.com, you can order books At AmericasTestKitchen.com, you can watch any Senior VP, Human Resources & Organizational Development Colleen Zelina and subscriptions and sign up for our free episode and access any recipe, tasting, or testing from Human Resources Manager Jason Lynott e-newsletter. Become a member and gain the current season of America’s Test Kitchen for free. access to 26 years of Cook’s Illustrated recipes, Become a member and gain access to the complete Circulation Services ProCirc equipment tests, and ingredient tastings, as well archive of every episode, recipe, tasting, and testing PRINTED IN THE USA as recipe companion videos. from every season of America’s Test Kitchen.

2019 annual 1 Shaking Beef This Vietnamese beef and watercress dish is made like a stir-fry and looks like a salad, but it’s so much more than either.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

haking beef, or bò lúc lac̆́, is a good browning, cooking the meat in two Vietnamese dish of stir-fried batches and leaving the pieces well sepa- cubes of marinated beef and rated from one another was also a must. sliced onions served over a bed For my first go, I stirred the meat and ofS watercress and accompanied by a dip- shook the pan continually as many recipes ping sauce of lime juice and pepper. The directed. But I wanted the meat to get dish gets its name from the vigorous shak- nice and dark on at least on one side, and ing and stirring required to achieve an this approach proved too inconsistent. So even and thorough sear. The beef—well next I tried leaving the pieces alone for the browned but still pink on the inside—is first few minutes before commencing with coated in a deeply savory glaze that also shaking and stirring. While this did create flavors and lightly wilts the watercress a good sear on the first side, now the fond below it. was prone to burning. It’s a study in contrasts: the warmth That’s when I realized something impor- of the beef against the cool crunch of the tant: In addition to helping the meat cook watercress, its savory meatiness against the evenly, shaking and stirring helps deglaze peppery bite of the cress and the tartness the pan—as the beef moves across the pan, of the , not to mention the it swipes up fond, coating the meat so that garlicky, -rich “red rice” that is a there is virtually no marinade left on the common accompaniment. surface of the pan that could burn. With The cut of beef varies from recipe to rec- this in mind, I adjusted my technique. ipe. San Francisco’s acclaimed Vietnamese I placed the meat in the pan and swirled eatery The Slanted Door started the trend the pan occasionally as the first side cooked of using filet mignon. But in Vietnamese so that the meat moved around but didn’t households, the cut is likely to be chewier turn over. Only after the first side had and less expensive. I decided to try the browned sufficiently did I begin stirring pricey filet as well as cheaper cuts such as Shaking beef gets its name from the action of shaking the pan during and shaking the pan more vigorously to get flank steak, sirloin strip, and sirloin steak cooking, which helps the meat cook evenly and deglazes the pan. the cubes to cook on all sides. tips. My tasters preferred all these cuts to I found that about 3 to 4 minutes on the the filet, which they found bland. In the end, sirloin approximate its flavors, I simply replaced the first side and 2 to 4 minutes on the remaining sides steak tips (also known as flap meat) won out for in the marinade with molasses. gave the meat a deep brown color on its exterior having the best beefy flavor, along with a pleasantly Some recipes call for marinating the meat in one while still keeping it juicy and pink on the inside— resilient texture. mixture and creating the glaze with another. For a hallmark of shaking beef. The glaze for the beef packs a big umami punch. simplicity, I drained the marinade from the meat, Another discovery: Besides garlic, sugar, and soy sauce, it often includes added water and cornstarch, and then reduced it to With all that open dark soy sauce (a more intensely flavored version of a glaze once the meat was seared. space in the pan, the soy sauce), along with fish and oyster sauces and a To cook the meat, I reached for my 12-inch oil had a tendency flavor enhancer popular in many Vietnamese dishes nonstick skillet, which I knew would be essential to splatter, especially called Maggi Seasoning, which offers a funky fer- for helping prevent the steak and the little bit of once the meat began mented flavor. In a nod to French colonial influence, marinade left on its surface from sticking. To ensure to shed moisture. a knob of butter may also be added. I was happy to find that equal amounts of soy and fish sauces WATERCRESS contributed plenty of umami richness. I also found Get the Right Cress Use this that Maggi Seasoning could be swapped for the soy In shaking beef, the watercress should provide sauce. Dark soy sauce added molasses-like smoky peppery bite and crunch—elements that contrast sweetness to the mix, but it can be hard to find. To with and balance the deeply savory meat. That’s why it’s important to buy watercress, not its UPLAND STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND land-dwelling relative called upland cress. The CRESS NUTRITION INFORMATION latter’s more delicate stems and smaller leaves Not this CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 don’t deliver the same substantial crunch. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 2 I decided to keep things simple. The watercress itself Transfer beef to clean bowl. Wipe skillet clean with was so punchy and vibrant, and its stems added wet paper towels and repeat with remaining 1 tea- such great crunch, that it seemed unnecessary to spoon oil and remaining beef. add anything else. While the glaze can serve double 4. Melt butter in now-empty skillet over medium duty as a dressing for the salad, I also liked how the heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, brightness of the lime-pepper dipping sauce helped until just beginning to soften, about 1 minute. Add balance out the flavors, so I used a small amount of reserved marinade and bring to boil. Cook, stir- it to drizzle over the salad, too. ring occasionally, until thickened and glossy, about The next time you want to make a steak dinner, 2 minutes. Add beef and any accumulated juices consider shaking beef—a deeply savory steak dish and and toss to coat. Scatter beef mixture and sauce over refreshing salad all in one. watercress. Drizzle 2 teaspoons lime juice mixture over salad. Divide remaining lime juice mixture SHAKING BEEF (BÒ LÚC LAC)� among small bowls for dipping and serve with salad. SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS

Sirloin steak tips are often sold as flap meat. They Oil the Meat, Not the Skillet VIETNAMESE RED RICE (CƠM ÐOSEE)̉ can be packaged as whole , cubes, or strips. We found that when we added the marinated SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES We prefer to buy whole steaks so we can cut our meat for shaking beef to hot oil in the skillet, the own steak tips. Maggi Seasoning can be used in wet marinade leaving the meat agitated the oil in We based this recipe on a version made by place of the soy sauce, if desired. Our recipe for the pan, causing lots of splatter. Luckily, there was Vietnamese cooking authority Andrea Nguyen. Shaking Beef (Bò Lúc Lac)̆́ for Two is available to a simple fix: Instead of adding oil to the skillet, we If jasmine rice is unavailable, substitute another web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/oct19. tossed it with the meat before cooking. Now the long-grain white rice. Maggi Seasoning can be Serve with our Vietnamese Red Rice (Com, ÐoSee)̉ moisture leaving the meat simply vaporized in the used in place of the soy sauce, if desired. or steamed white rice. hot, mostly dry pan.

1½ cups jasmine rice 4 teaspoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 teaspoons soy sauce 4 garlic , minced 2 teaspoons molasses 3 tablespoons tomato 1 pound sirloin steak tips, trimmed and 13/4 cups water cut into 3/4-inch cubes 2 teaspoons soy sauce 4 ounces (4 cups) watercress, 1/ teaspoon table salt torn into bite-size pieces 1/4 cup lime juice (2 limes) 1. Place rice in fine‑mesh strainer and rinse 1 teaspoon pepper under cold running water until water runs clear. 1/4 cup water Drain well. Melt butter in medium saucepan 2 garlic cloves, minced over medium-high heat. Add rice and cook, 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch stirring constantly, until grains become chalky 4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided and opaque, 1 to 3 minutes. Add garlic and 1 tablespoon unsalted butter cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 small red onion, sliced thin 30 seconds. Add tomato paste and cook, stir- ring constantly, until tomato paste is evenly 1. Whisk fish sauce, soy sauce, and molasses LOTS OF SPLATTER MINIMAL SPLATTER distributed, about 1 minute. together in medium bowl. Add beef and toss to Adding meat to hot oil Tossing meat with 2. Add water, soy sauce, and salt and bring coat. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. in pan causes splatter. oil before cooking to boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and cook Spread watercress in shallow serving bowl. Combine minimizes splatter. until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about lime juice and pepper in small bowl and set aside. 20 minutes. Let stand off heat, covered, for 2. Using tongs, transfer beef to second medium 10 minutes. Fluff rice with fork and stir to com- bowl, letting as much marinade as possible drain back bine. Serve. into first bowl. Add water, garlic, and cornstarch to TECHNIQUE marinade in first bowl and whisk to combine; set CONSIDER THIS A STEAK DINNER aside. Add 2 teaspoons oil to beef and toss to coat. I sorted out a tidier work-around: Instead of adding 3. Heat 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet Most stir-fries call for thinly sliced meat that cooks the oil to the pan, I tossed the meat itself with the over medium-high heat until just . Using quickly and thoroughly. Shaking beef is different: oil before placing it in the skillet, which prevented tongs, wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Add The meat is cut into good-size splattering almost entirely (to learn why, see “Oil half of beef to skillet, leaving space between pieces. cubes that brown nicely on the Meat, Not the Skillet”). Cook, swirling skillet gently and occasionally to the outside but retain a pink I opted to keep butter in the formula, since it capture any fond that collects on bottom of skillet, center, so eating added a little richness. To incorporate it, I used it to until beef is browned on first side, 3 to 4 minutes. them is similar briefly soften the onion before adding the reserved Continue to cook, stirring and shaking skillet to biting into marinade to the pan to reduce. frequently, until beef is coated and browned and a morsel Now for the salad. While some recipes call for a center is just pink (to check for doneness, remove of steak. variety of greens and herbs and sometimes tomatoes, larger piece and cut in half), 2 to 4 minutes longer.

2019 annual 3 Overhauling Sloppy Joes We examined every aspect of this family favorite to produce sandwiches with tender, moist meat in a tangy, not-too-sweet sauce. (We even made them a little less sloppy.)

j BY STEVE DUNN k

hen my kids were little, added a distracting crunch. And yet, even making Sloppy Joes was a after I’d eliminated all but the onion, the guaranteed win-win situ- texture of the filling was still compromised, ation. They loved eating as the total cooking time was so short that Wthem, and I loved sneaking bites off their the onion bits never had time to fully soften. plates. Eating a full portion of the filling, The fix? Baking soda once again. Just 1/8 tea- however, was off the table, since it was spoon altered the onion’s pH, causing it to one‑dimensional and cloyingly sweet. rapidly break down so it nearly melted into That said, those few bites were such a the sauce. guilty pleasure that I’ve often wondered if I could give the an overhaul so Keep the Ketchup that it could satisfy adults and kids alike. Speaking of the sauce, I knew that ketchup’s After all, the filling couldn’t be any easier to primary contribution was intense sweetness, make: Just sauté some chopped onion (and so I experimented with replacing it with a sometimes celery, carrot, and bell pepper) less-sugary tomato product—sauce, puree, in a skillet before adding ground beef to crushed, or paste—that I lightly sweetened brown, and then finish with a ketchup-based myself with , molasses, corn syrup, sauce. And who knows? Maybe techniques or brown sugar. But there’s a good reason that we normally apply to highbrow ketchup is such a phenomenally popular would come in handy here, too. condiment: It’s packed with umami, bright with acidity, and well seasoned with salt. The Meat of the Matter There was simply no replacing it. The key It’s no wonder that the sauce for Sloppy was to use ketchup only as an accent and to Joe filling is often candy‑sweet, since it anchor the sauce with tomato paste. Just contains anywhere from 1/2 cup to 1 cup 1/3 cup of ketchup (along with 2 teaspoons of ketchup (and sometimes brown sugar, of brown sugar for its molasses‑y notes) too). But the sweet sauce isn’t the only We’ve upgraded Sloppy Joes, but they’re as easy as ever: Make them with was brought into line by 1/4 cup of savory problem: The ground beef typically turns mostly pantry ingredients in less than 30 minutes for a quick, casual meal. tomato paste. Another umami heavy hit- out pebbly and dry once cooked. Before ter, Worcestershire sauce, also kept the working toward a recipe for a less saccharine more difficult for the proteins to bond excessively. ketchup’s sweetness in check. Finally, to give the sauce, I had a question about how to treat the Sure enough, just 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda tossed sauce more personality, I layered in red pepper flakes beef: Should I skip the browning step, which with 1 tablespoon of water made the beef juicier and for heat, minced garlic for zing, red wine vinegar for I suspected caused the undesirable texture? To more tender. extra tang, and paprika for earthy depth. find out, I mixed up a rudimentary sauce in a So tender, in fact, that the aromatics I had been skillet before adding a pound of 85 percent lean experimenting with now seemed obtrusive. Finely Solutions with Staying Power ground beef to simmer. Once the meat had lost chopped onion was a must (it’s one of the defining The beef was moist and tender, and the its pink color, I loaded some of the filling onto a elements of a Sloppy Joe), but the celery, carrot, and multidimensional sauce was downright bun and dug in. bell pepper made the sandwiches taste too vegetal and irresistible. But just one thing was still The meat in this batch, while not particularly moist, was at least relatively tender—and given the bold sauce, I didn’t miss any of the beefiness that Why Use These for Sloppy Joes? TOOLS FOR SUCCESS I’d sacrificed by skipping browning. (What’s more, ( Baking soda helps keep the ground beef moist and These three items help create winning texture. this easy recipe had just gotten even easier.) But tender, and incorporating baking soda into the finely I didn’t stop there: The test kitchen has found that chopped onion causes the onion to soften rapidly so it mixing a solution of baking soda and water into nearly melts into the sauce. ground beef raises the pH of the meat, making it ( Cornstarch thickens the sauce and binds up any fat, creating a silky-smooth, cohesive texture. ( STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND A potato masher breaks the ground beef into fine, NUTRITION INFORMATION uniform pieces that will (mostly) stay put on the bun CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 instead of tumbling out. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 4 bugging me: The filling was still a little too sloppy. SHOPPING FOR GROUND BEEF Don’t get me wrong—I like the messy nature of this dish. But if everything tumbles out on the first Cuts to Seek Out bite, the sandwich is difficult to enjoy. Today, many supermarkets classify ground beef only by fat level, which ranges from 5 to 30 percent. This Up to this point, I had been breaking up the generic “ground beef ” can come from anywhere on the animal, so flavor and texture won’t be consistent. beef into random-size clumps with a wooden spoon However, if you can find ground beef labeled by primal cut (or you have a butcher who can grind it for as the sauce bubbled around it. I wondered if the you), here are our recommendations. filling would stay put on the bun better if I elimi- nated the larger pieces of beef. To find out, I used a Ground Sirloin potato masher to break up the beef in the pan until CLOSE SECOND it achieved a fine, uniform texture. I also stirred This cut from the cow’s midsection in a cornstarch slurry. In addition to acting as a near the hip offers good beefy flavor, thickener, the cornstarch would hold any separated but at only about 10 percent fat, it fat in the sauce, creating a cohesive, silky texture. can be on the dry side. I marveled at how these small changes markedly improved the filling. Now what went on the bun, Ground Round (mostly) stayed on the bun. NOT RECOMMENDED Now that I have a recipe for just-sloppy-enough Ground Chuck Tough and often gristly and lacking Sloppy Joes with tender, moist meat and a lightly TOP CHOICE in beefy flavor, ground round comes sweetened sauce, I’ll certainly be needing my own Cut from the shoulder, ground chuck is well marbled, ranging from the rear upper leg and rump of full portion. from 15 to 20 percent fat, and is distinguished by its rich beefy the cow. It has a fat content of 10 to flavor and juicy, tender texture. 20 percent. CLASSIC SLOPPY JOES SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES Does Color Matter? Tossing the beef with baking soda in step 1 helps Have you ever noticed that the you just brought home from the supermarket is red on the keep it tender and juicy; adding baking soda to outside but dark purple or brown on the inside? This is not an indication that the meat is past its prime. the skillet with the onion in step 2 helps the onion The color in meat comes from a muscle protein called myoglobin. When the meat is freshly cut, this pro- break down. You may substitute 90 percent lean tein is deep purple. As the meat sits in its packaging (or in the butcher’s display case), the myoglobin will ground beef in this recipe, but the cooked mixture convert to bright red oxymyoglobin on the meat’s exterior, where it is exposed to oxygen. Over time, the will be a bit less tender. Serve the Sloppy Joes with oxymyoglobin will slowly convert to brown metmyoglobin. Color changes of this nature are typical and pickle chips and potato chips, if desired. Our recipe should not cause alarm—only once the meat has turned completely brown on the exterior is it on its way for Classic Sloppy Joes for Two is available to web to spoiling. subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/jun19.

2 tablespoons water, divided Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, 1/ teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon baking soda, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring con- Balancing Act divided stantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in Most Sloppy Joe recipes call for lots of 1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef sugar, paprika, pepper flakes, and remaining 1/8 tea- ketchup—1/2 cup to 1 cup—which makes the 1/ teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon table salt, divided spoon salt and cook, stirring constantly, until paprika sandwiches overly sweet. We drop the ketchup 2 teaspoons vegetable oil is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomato paste and to just 1/3 cup and balance it out with generous 1/ onion, chopped fine cook, stirring constantly, until paste is rust‑colored, amounts of two umami-rich ingredients: 1/4 cup 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 to 4 minutes. of earthy tomato paste and 1 tablespoon of 2 teaspoons packed brown sugar, plus extra 3. Add beef and cook, breaking up meat with Worcestershire sauce (a real umami powerhouse for seasoning wooden spoon, until beef is no longer pink, about since some of its ingredients are fermented and it 2 teaspoons paprika 5 minutes. Mash beef with potato masher until contains anchovies). 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes fine‑textured, about 1 minute. Add ketchup, vinegar, 1/4 cup tomato paste and Worcestershire and stir to combine, scraping up 1/3 cup ketchup any browned bits. 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, plus extra 4. Combine cornstarch and remaining 1 table- for seasoning spoon water in small bowl, then pour cornstarch 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce mixture over beef and stir to incorporate. Cook, ½ teaspoon cornstarch stirring constantly, until sauce thickens and coats 4 hamburger buns beef, about 1 minute. Season with salt, extra sugar, and extra vinegar to taste. Spoon beef mixture onto 1. Combine 1 tablespoon water and 1/2 teaspoon buns and serve. baking soda in small bowl. In large bowl, toss beef

with baking soda mixture and 1/2 teaspoon salt until RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL thoroughly combined. Set aside. Find these sides in our archive: Sweet and Tangy 2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over Coleslaw (May/June 2011) and All-American Potato Tomato paste and Worcestershire sauce transform medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and Salad (July/August 2004). our Sloppy Joes from cloying to savory-sweet.

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: remaining 1/8 teaspoon baking soda and stir to coat.

2019 annual 5 Beef Bulgogi This popular Korean dish features flavorful strips of marinated steak that cook in minutes. Bulgogi is quick enough for a weeknight but also impressive and fun to serve to company.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

hen I first tried bulgogi (literally “fire meat”) at a Korean barbe- cue restaurant not too long ago, I immediately fell in love—not Wjust with the dish but the whole experience. Diners used chopsticks to spread thinly sliced beef, wet with a sweet soy marinade, across a hot grill in the center of the table. The meat sputtered and hissed, and after a few minutes was lightly browned and cooked through. Each diner then piled a few pieces into a lettuce leaf, spooned on a deeply savory chile sauce, wrapped up the lettuce into a package, and ate it. Rice was served along- side to help balance the intense flavors, along with an array of different sauces and pickles collectively known as banchan. Eating in this communal way, with each person customizing their own bites of the dish, was fun and convivial. It’s no wonder that bulgogi is one of the most popular dishes in Korea, at restaurants and at home. I couldn’t wait to re-create the experience in my kitchen. Tuck pieces of the beef inside a lettuce leaf and top them with a dab of spicy ssamjang. Kimchi, white rice, and pickled daikon radish are eaten alongside. A Cut Above the Rest Tender and/or fatty cuts are common for bulgogi then froze them for 35 minutes before slicing them containing soy sauce, garlic cloves, sugar, toasted so that the thin slices, which end up fairly well-done, thin. As I worked, the steak was transformed into sesame oil, and pepper; tossed it with the meat; don’t turn tough or dry. Popular choices include rib an impressively large, wispy pile of shaved meat (see and let it sit for 30 minutes. eye, sirloin, tenderloin, and skirt steak. After tasting “One Steak, Four Servings”). It was now time for I cooked the slices (without wiping off the all the cuts side by side, we chose rib eye for its rich the marinade. marinade, per tradition) in a nonstick skillet over beefiness and generous marbling. moderately high heat, let them sit for a minute to Traditionally, the steak for bulgogi is sliced Balancing Act brown slightly, and then stirred until they were no razor‑thin, and we’ve found that partially freezing The marinade for bulgogi skews sweet, but in longer pink, just a few minutes longer. the meat makes this task much easier. I divided a addition to sugar, it contains a good amount Unfortunately, this beef had a sweetness that single rib-eye steak into 11/2-inch-wide pieces and of soy sauce and garlic. I put together a batch screamed teriyaki, not bulgogi. I decreased the sugar from 6 tablespoons to 4 tablespoons, increased the soy sauce from 2 to 3 tablespoons, and for savoriness, Punch Up Your Pantry with These Korean Staples doubled the garlic cloves to four and added 1/4 cup Our bulgogi recipe features three mainstays of Korean cuisine that can be used in all sorts of ways. of chopped onion—an ingredient I had seen in some KIMCHI: In Korea, this accompaniment is on the table at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There are hundreds of bulgogi recipes. I pureed the mixture (also common) variations, but the best-known type, which is tangy and spicy, is made of salted and then marinated and cooked the beef as before. fermented napa cabbage and seasoned with chili powder, garlic, ginger, and Much better: The sweetness was still apparent, but scallions. Add it to grain bowls, stir-fries, , burgers, hot dogs, or much more tempered. grilled cheese. GOCHUJANG: This thick, sweet, savory, and spicy paste is made from Treat It Right gochugaru (Korean chile flakes), dried fermented soybean powder, sweet rice The meat tasted great and wasn’t dry, but it was a powder, salt, and sometimes sugar. Use it in , marinades, bit chewy, since the thin pieces couldn’t help but be or dipping sauces or to pep up soups, , and even deviled eggs. cooked well beyond medium-rare. Many bulgogi A POWERFUL TRIO DOENJANG: Fermented soybeans give this coarse-textured, miso‑like, salty, Keep doenjang, gochujang, and recipes address this issue by including certain fruits rich paste a slight sourness. Use as a replacement for miso in soups, stews, and kimchi on hand for authentic such as pear for the enzymes they contain that sup- dressings or as a coating on meats, fish, or tofu. Korean flavor. posedly tenderize meat. But I found that tossing

the beef with baking soda (our go-to treatment TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 6 for tenderizing meat) and letting it sit for a few ONE STEAK, FOUR SERVINGS minutes before marinating it was more effective, as Sliced paper-thin and served with rice and other accompaniments in bulgogi, pear and other fruits turned the surface of the meat a single rib-eye steak is plenty to serve four people. mushy (for details, see “Try a Little Tenderness [But Not Too Much]”). But I had one more question about the marinade: The test kitchen learned long ago that marinades do most of their work on the meat’s surface, and my thin slices were nearly all surface. What’s more, the beef was cooking directly in its marinade. Was DIVIDE AND FREEZE A RIB EYE TURN PIECES soaking the slices for 30 minutes superfluous? When THINLY SLICE Cut rib-eye steak crosswise into ONTO CUT SIDE Use sharp knife to shave meat as thin as tasting three batches—one marinated for 30 min- 11-inch-wide pieces. Trim exterior and Stand each piece on possible against grain. Precise slicing isn’t utes, one for 15 minutes, and another just before interior fat. Freeze until very firm to cut side to expose grain. necessary—it’s more important that the cooking—no one could detect a difference. A quick make slicing easier. slices are thin than that they are perfect. soak just before cooking was the way to go. I cooked up another batch of meat, this time adding a handful of scallion greens during the last Chile Sauce (Ssamjang) 5. Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet 30 seconds for freshness and a vibrant green color. 4 scallions, white and light green parts only, over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add beef The salty-sweet beef was ultratender and moist. minced mixture in even layer and cook, without stirring, until 1/4 cup doenjang browned on 1 side, about 1 minute. Stir and continue Party Time 1 tablespoon gochujang to cook until beef is no longer pink, 3 to 4 minutes Finally, I turned to the banchan. First up was the 1 tablespoon water longer. Add scallion greens and cook, stirring con- traditional savory chile sauce ssamjang to dab onto 2 teaspoons sugar stantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to the meat. I combined minced scallion whites with 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil platter. Serve with pickles and chile sauce. two potently flavored Korean pantry staples made 1 garlic , minced from fermented soy beans: sweet, savory, and spicy gochujang and salty, rich doenjang (see “Punch Beef Try a Little Tenderness Up Your Pantry with These Korean Staples”). 1 (11/4-pound) boneless rib-eye steak, cut crosswise (But Not Too Much) I also added sugar, garlic, toasted sesame oil, and into 1½-inch-wide pieces and trimmed Many bulgogi marinade recipes include pear or a little water to loosen its consistency. Then, for a 1 tablespoon water kiwi—fruits that contain enzymes that suppos- crisp, pungent element, I soaked daikon radishes 1/4 teaspoon baking soda edly tenderize the meat. To test their tenderizing in vinegar, salt, and sugar for 30 minutes to create 1/4 cup chopped onion effects, we added 1/2 cup each of crushed pear a quick pickle. 1/4 cup sugar and crushed kiwi to separate batches of our mari- With steamed rice, lettuce leaves, and kimchi 3 tablespoons soy sauce nade and soaked slices of rib-eye steak in each for to go with the tender beef, spicy sauce, and tangy 4 garlic cloves, peeled 30 minutes. We also tossed more sliced steak in pickles, I had a fun, satisfying meal that I couldn’t 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil our go-to tenderizer—a solution of baking soda wait to share. 1/4 teaspoon pepper and water—for 5 minutes (since baking soda 2 teaspoons vegetable oil works on contact, longer isn’t necessary) and then KOREAN MARINATED BEEF (BULGOGI) 4 scallions, dark green parts only, cut into stir-fried all three samples per our recipe. SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS 1½-inch pieces While the baking soda–treated batch cooked up perfectly moist and tender, the pear- and To save time, prepare the pickles and chile sauce 1. FOR THE PICKLES: Whisk vinegar, sugar, kiwi‑marinated meat cooked up mushy on the while the steak is in the freezer. Daikon is a long and salt together in medium bowl. Add daikon and surface. That’s because the tenderizers work white root and is a staple in Asian cuisine. You can toss to combine. Gently press on daikon to sub- differently: Whereas baking soda tenderizes by substitute 2 cups of bean sprouts and one cucumber, merge. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes unraveling and separating the meat’s protein peeled, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and sliced thin or up to 24 hours. strands, the powerful fruit enzymes (calpain on the bias, for the daikon, if desired. It’s worth seek- 2. FOR THE CHILE SAUCE: Combine all in pear; actinidain in kiwi) snip the protein ing out the Korean fermented bean pastes doenjang ingredients in small bowl. Cover and set aside. strands into smaller pieces that yield a mushy and gochujang, which are sold in Asian markets and (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.) effect. We’ll stick with bak- online. If you can’t find them, you can substitute 3. FOR THE BEEF: Place beef on large plate ing soda when we need to red or white miso for the doenjang and sriracha for and freeze until very firm, 35 to 40 minutes. Once tenderize meat. the gochujang. You can eat bulgogi as a plated meal firm, stand each piece on 1 cut side on cutting board USE BAKING SODA, with steamed rice and kimchi or wrap small portions and, using sharp knife, shave beef against grain as NOT A FRUITY of the beef in lettuce leaves with chile sauce and eat thin as possible. (Slices needn’t be perfectly intact.) MARINADE them like tacos. Combine water and baking soda in medium bowl. Baking soda leaves meat Add beef and toss to coat. Let sit at room tempera- nicely tender, not mushy. Pickles ture for 5 minutes. 1 cup rice vinegar 4. Meanwhile, process onion, sugar, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons sugar garlic, sesame oil, and pepper in food processor until STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND 1½ teaspoons table salt smooth, about 30 seconds, scraping down sides of NUTRITION INFORMATION 1 pound daikon radish, peeled and cut into bowl as needed. Add onion mixture to beef and toss CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: 11-inch-long matchsticks to evenly coat.

2019 annual 7 Tacos al Carbón Each component of our quick and easy steak tacos—tender, juicy meat; corn tortillas; and scallion-jalapeño salsa—is cooked on the grill to infuse it with smoky char.

j BY LAN LAM k

n Sonora, Mexico, a state dominated by cattle ranches, tacos al carbón are a spe- cialty. They’re not complicated—al carbón just means that the protein, usually steak, is cookedI over charcoal. The meat is seasoned with a marinade or spices, grilled, tucked into soft corn tortillas, and topped with straightforward garnishes such as charred scallions and lime juice. I would adore these tacos even if they weren’t so simple to make, but the fact that they come together easily is an undeniable perk. Many cuts of steak are used for tacos al carbón, but skirt and flank are high on the list. I chose flank here. Like skirt steak, flank is thin and beefy, cooks quickly, and has lots of surface area for picking up flavor. And flank is less expensive and more widely available. After a quick trim to remove any patches of fat, my first steak was just about ready to throw on the grill. To flavor the meat, I opted for a spice paste. Minimalists use a combination of salt, cumin, and garlic. At the other end of the spectrum are recipes that call for a laundry list of ground spices and chili powders. To produce the Since I had complexity of the latter via a hot grill, I the short ingredient list of decided to do the former, I popped open a can of chipotles (smoked the rest of the jalapeños) in adobo sauce. cooking outside This powerhouse ingredi- as well. ent would contribute spicy, smoky, and savory notes. I added cumin, oil, and a little salt to the minced chipotles to make a paste. After evenly coating the steak with the ruddy mixture, I headed outside and lit a chimney full of charcoal. Grilled directly over the coals (a gas grill works well, too), the thickest part of the steak was medium‑rare We lightly char corn tortillas in batches on the hotter side of the grill and then wrap them tightly in foil so they (125 degrees) in 10 minutes. After letting the meat stay soft and warm until serving time. rest, I thinly sliced it against the grain. The chipotle paste was a keeper, but the thinner areas of the steak and gave the meat a concave shape. Frequent flipping I grabbed another steak, trimmed the thicker were overdone. What’s more, the meat was unevenly helped the top and bottom shrink at about the same fat deposits to 1/8 inch, and left the thinner ones browned and didn’t have much grill flavor. rate, so the steak stayed flat and browned evenly. in place. I applied the chipotle paste and grilled For my second try, I sliced the steak into thirds the steak, flipping it every 2 minutes. Rendered lengthwise. This separated the tapered edges from the Flare for Flavor fat dripped onto the coals, causing small flare-ups thicker center so I could grill each piece to the proper As for the flavor deficit, I knew that cooking on a that brought with them a smoky, meaty flavor doneness. These narrow strips, once sliced, would also grill doesn’t necessarily guarantee grill flavor. Many that tasted like success. This was an A-plus steak. fit nicely into 6-inch tortillas. of the compounds responsible for this flavor are cre- The mediocre browning in my first test had been a ated when fat and juices drip onto the coals, vaporize, Toppings al Carbón result of the steak buckling as it cooked; the bottom and waft up and condense onto the food. If I wanted Since I had a hot grill, I decided to do the rest of the steak (closest to the heat source) cooked more deep grill flavor, I needed drippings. And I had been of the cooking outside as well. Inspired by the

quickly than the top, which caused its fibers to shrink trimming away a main source: the fat on the steak. charred scallions that often adorn tacos al carbón, TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 8 I decided to whip up a grilled scallion salsa. Along Thirst-Quencher with the scallions, I threw some jalapeños onto the Agua fresca means “fresh water” and is the catchall fire, making a note that next time I could grill the term for a variety of beverages made by combining chiles alongside the steak since they cook in about fruits, grains, seeds, or flowers with sugar and water. To the same amount of time. This would not only make a watermelon version, we whiz chunks of melon be more efficient but also infuse the chiles with with water in a blender and strain out the pulp before the flavors of the vaporized drippings. Finally, accenting the mixture with lime juice, agave nectar, and I blistered tortillas on the hotter side of the grill a pinch of salt to bring out the sweet and tart flavors. until they picked up a toasty, popcorn‑like aroma and then wrapped them tightly in foil so that they WATERMELON-LIME AGUA FRESCA would stay warm and soft. SERVES 8 TO 10 (MAKES 7 CUPS) TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES Back inside, while the steak rested, I seeded and finely chopped the jalapeños and coarsely chopped Watermelons vary in sweetness. Adjust the amounts the scallions. I combined them in a bowl with a of lime juice and sweetener to your taste. squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of salt, assembled some tacos, and rounded up my colleagues. This 8 cups seedless watermelon, cut into 1-inch time no one doubted that the rosy steak had come pieces 2 tablespoons agave nectar or honey, plus from the grill. They also praised the lively salsa 2 cups water extra for seasoning but felt that the two elements were too disparate. 1/4 cup lime juice (2 limes), plus extra for 1/8 teaspoon salt I reached for the canned chipotles and stirred just seasoning Fresh mint leaves (optional) enough of the savory adobo sauce into the salsa to tie its flavor to the steak. That, along with dollops of Working in 2 batches, process watermelon and water in blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Strain rich crema and a few more squirts of lime, brought mixture through fine-mesh strainer into 2-quart pitcher; discard solids. Stir in lime juice, agave, and salt. everything together. Season with extra lime juice and extra agave to taste. Serve over ice, garnished with mint, if using. (Agua fresca can be refrigerated for up to 5 days; stir to recombine before serving.) EASY GRILLED STEAK TACOS (TACOS AL CARBÓN) SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS 2B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 min- This steak’s grill flavor is created when some of utes. Turn off 1 burner (if using grill with more than the fat and juices land on the fire and create small, 2 burners, turn off burner farthest from primary controlled flare-ups, so choose a steak that has some burner) and leave other burner(s) on high. fat deposits. Sour cream can be substituted for the 3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange steak crema, if desired. and jalapeños on hotter side of grill. Cook (cov- ered if using gas), flipping steak and jalapeños 3 tablespoons extra-virgin , divided every 2 minutes, until meat is well browned and 2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in registers 125 to 130 degrees (for medium-rare), adobo sauce, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce 7 to 12 minutes, and jalapeños are blistered and For Flavor, Leave Some Fat On 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided charred in spots, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer steak To make sure that our tacos al carbón live up to 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin to clean cutting board and tent with aluminum their name—that is, have lots of grill flavor—we 1 (1½- to 13/4-pound) flank steak foil. Transfer jalapeños to medium bowl and cover leave some of the steak’s fat attached. As the meat 2 jalapeño chiles tightly with plastic wrap. cooks, the fat will melt and drip onto the fire. The 20 scallions 4. Place scallions on hotter side of grill and cook grease, along with meat juices, hits the coals and 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas until dark green parts are well charred on 1 side, 1 to creates small flare-ups, sending up vapors that 11/ tablespoons lime juice, plus extra 2 minutes. Flip scallions, arranging them so that dark condense on the steak, giving it a meaty, smoky for seasoning, plus lime wedges green parts are on cooler side of grill while white and grilled taste. Fresh cilantro leaves light green parts are on hotter side. Continue to cook Mexican crema until whites are well charred, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer to bowl with jalapeños and cover tightly 1. Combine 1 tablespoon oil, chipotle, 11/2 tea- with plastic. Arrange 6 tortillas on hotter side of grill spoons salt, and cumin in bowl. Trim fat deposits and cook until lightly charred, 45 to 60 seconds per on steak to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut steak lengthwise side. Wrap warmed tortillas tightly in foil. Repeat (with grain) into three 2- to 3-inch-wide strips. Rub with remaining 6 tortillas. chipotle mixture evenly into steak, then transfer steak 5. Without peeling, stem and seed jalapeños; to rimmed baking sheet. reserve seeds. Chop jalapeños fine and transfer to DON’T TRIM TOO MUCH 2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot- bowl. Chop scallions coarse and transfer to bowl with Trim fat deposits to 1/8-inch thickness. tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter jalapeños. Stir in lime juice, adobo sauce, remaining mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When 2 tablespoons oil, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly Season with salt, extra lime juice, and reserved jala- STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, peño seeds to taste. Slice steak thin against grain and NUTRITION INFORMATION and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, transfer to serving platter. Serve steak in tortillas, pass- CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: about 5 minutes. ing salsa, lime wedges, cilantro, and crema separately.

2019 annual 9 Meatballs the Spanish Way For a new take on meatballs and sauce, try albóndigas en salsa de almendras, a tapas staple featuring a rich nut mixture that should be in everyone’s repertoire.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

n Spain, albóndigas, or meatballs, which made sense since the sauce has so are a quintessential tapas offering, much depth. enjoyed as part of a spread of shared I started with 1 pound of ground pork dishes. Unlike Mexican albóndigas, (I stuck with just one type of meat for Iwhich are simmered in a soup, these simplicity), one egg, two minced garlic petite, saucy meatballs are typically served cloves, 2 tablespoons of chopped , in a cazuela (a shallow clay baking dish) and two slices of soaked in 1/4 cup and eaten one by one using toothpicks. of water. Rather than stir the ingredients I’ve enjoyed albóndigas coated in together by hand, which can leave bready a robust tomato sauce, but I recently spots in the meatballs, we’ve found that learned of another style. In this version, a mixing the panade in the food processor - and paprika-infused wine sauce is and then pulsing it with the meat creates a flavored and thickened with picada, a lively more uniform blend. mixture of fried ground nuts and bread, raw After processing, I rolled the mixture garlic, and often parsley. Unlike a roux or into 1-inch meatballs—petite but not so cornstarch, each of which is primarily used small that they would be tedious to shape. to thicken foods, the ground nuts and bread can be a hassle, so I didn’t even in picada provide body while also contribut- go there; I simply pan-fried the meatballs in ing vibrant complexity. Frying the nuts and a 12-inch nonstick skillet and then cooked bread in olive oil brings richness and nutti- them through in a placeholder sauce. The ness that’s accentuated by the grassy parsley resulting meatballs were too tender: They and sharp garlic. (For more information, see failed to maintain a pleasing round shape “Ode to Picada.”) I couldn’t wait to give and broke apart as I tried to scoop them this style of meatballs a try. into a serving dish. I tested a handful of recipes, all of which It was clear that I’d added too much followed a similar process: Ground meat panade. For my next batch, I cut the (pork alone or pork mixed with beef or amount in half. These meatballs had a bet- veal) is combined with egg, garlic, parsley, Albóndigas are typically offered as part of a tapas spread, but they can be a ter balance of moistness and structure, but and a panade—a paste of bread and liquid meal if you serve them with rice or potatoes. the frequent turning required to brown (water is typically used for albóndigas). The them on all sides still caused some to even- panade’s liquid adds moisture while the bread starch and enlivened by a vivid picada. The petite meatballs tually split apart. I was also dealing with the usual interferes with the meat’s proteins, preventing them would make an enticing appetizer that, along with challenges that accompany pan-frying meatballs, from connecting too strongly and causing tough- rice or potatoes and a vegetable, could easily be such as splattering oil and flattened, slightly tough ness. The meat mixture is shaped into balls, deep- or served as a meal. sides where the meatballs touched the pan. pan‑fried until browned, and then set aside while a sauce is created by cooking softened onion with Working Out the Kinks Mastering the Meatballs broth and white wine. The meatballs then simmer in I wanted my albóndigas to have the tender yet The benefits of deep frying were becoming clear: the sauce until it has reduced a bit and the meatballs sturdy quality of Italian meatballs. As for the flavor, Submerging the meatballs in hot oil would not are cooked through. Finally, the picada is stirred in. I’d follow tradition and keep it relatively simple, only quickly cook their exteriors so they wouldn’t Due to various cooking times and ingredient become tough but also set their surfaces so they proportions, the sauces ranged from porridge-like would stay round and intact. I wondered if cooking TECHNIQUE THE BEST WAY to brothy. And the meatballs themselves? They were the raw meatballs directly in the sauce, covered, so either too dry or so moist and tender that they failed TO INCORPORATE A PANADE they would steam, would evenly cook them from to hold their shape. Many recipes call for simply mixing a panade all sides. I’d have to sacrifice browning, of course, I envisioned moist, cohesive bite-size meatballs (a paste of bread and liquid) into ground meat but maybe that wouldn’t matter since the saffron-, napped in a warmly spiced sauce, lightly thickened by hand, but we have found that this leaves paprika-, and picada-laced sauce would be so packed doughy pockets in the meatballs. Instead, we with flavor. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND mix the panade in the food processor and then Sure enough, meatballs cooked this way held NUTRITION INFORMATION pulse in the meat to ensure that the panade is their shape beautifully without developing the CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 evenly incorporated. tough browned crust. They were also tender, moist,

and perfectly round. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 10 Ode to Picada 1. FOR THE PICADA: Process in food Picada—the mixture of nuts ground with bread, fried in processor until finely ground, about 20 seconds. olive oil, and combined with garlic and parsley that gives the Add bread and process until bread is finely ground, sauce for our meatballs (and our Catalan‑Style Beef , about 15 seconds. Transfer -bread mixture January/February 2012) body and personality—is one of to 12-inch nonstick skillet. Add oil and cook over the most important elements in Catalan cuisine. Picada is medium heat, stirring often, until mixture is golden thought to have originated in the 13th or 14th century as a brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl. Stir in way to use stale bread to thicken soups and stews. But as parsley and garlic and set aside. Wipe skillet clean author Colman Andrews explains in Catalan Cuisine: Vivid with paper towels. Flavors from Spain’s Mediterranean Coast (1988), picada 2. FOR THE MEATBALLS: Process bread in behaves differently from other thickeners: It “doesn’t . . . now-empty processor until finely ground, about thicken as relentlessly as roux,” and it “adds more heart 15 seconds. Add egg, water, 1 tablespoon parsley, than heft.” garlic, salt, and pepper and process until smooth Picada recipes vary from cook to cook. The bread differs. paste forms, about 20 seconds, scraping down sides And while almonds are traditional, other nuts—pine nuts, of bowl as necessary. Add pork and pulse until com- walnuts, or hazelnuts—are sometimes swapped in. Spices (saffron is common) are often included. Fresh bined, about 5 pulses. parsley is usually considered essential to the mixture. 3. Remove processor blade. Using your moist- Picada is such a game changer that we don’t think it should be relegated solely to soups, stews, and ened hands, form generous 1 tablespoon pork braises: Like its relatives and gremolata, it’s also terrific as a garnish on grilled or roasted meats, mixture into 1-inch round and transfer to chicken, fish, or vegetables. plate; repeat with remaining pork mixture to form about 24 meatballs. 4. Heat oil in now-empty skillet over medium Perfecting the Picada parsley for color. I know tapas are meant to be shared, heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook, stirring It was time for the critical final flourish: the picada. but as I dug into the albóndigas, I wasn’t sure that occasionally, until softened, 4 to 6 minutes. Add The nuts and bread are typically ground together and I wanted to. paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. then fried, but I found it difficult to finely grind the Add broth and wine and bring to simmer. Stir in almonds simultaneously with the bread. Instead, I first SPANISH-STYLE MEATBALLS saffron. Add meatballs and adjust heat to maintain processed 1/4 cup of slivered almonds (skins would IN ALMOND SAUCE simmer. Cover and cook until meatballs register be distracting) and then pulsed in pieces of hearty (ALBÓNDIGAS EN SALSA DE ALMENDRAS) 160 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping meatballs once. white bread, which had just the right amount of heft SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS 5. Stir in picada and continue to cook, uncovered, and is widely available. Finally, I fried the mixture in until sauce has thickened slightly, 1 to 2 minutes extra‑virgin olive oil before adding raw minced garlic Sometimes fully cooked ground pork retains a longer. Off heat, stir in vinegar. Season with salt and chopped fresh parsley. slightly pink hue; trust your thermometer. These and pepper to taste. Transfer to platter, sprinkle with During the last couple of minutes of cooking, meatballs can be served as an appetizer with tooth- remaining 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve. I stirred the picada into the sauce. It gave the dish picks or as a main course alongside a vegetable and richness, body, and some bracing sharpness, but potatoes or rice. I thought the sauce could be slightly thicker. So These Meatballs Are Better I ground the nuts finer, which gave them more Picada Without Browning volume. With more nut surface area exposed to the 1/4 cup slivered almonds Small meatballs like our albóndigas have a skillet, I was also able to fry the nuts more thor- 1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, high crust-to-interior ratio, which can make oughly for even richer flavor. torn into 1-inch pieces browning detrimental: As the exteriors of My sauce now had just the right amount of cling 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil the meatballs darkened, they developed a to coat the delicate, tender meatballs. Though it’s 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley tough crust, not to mention that the meatballs not customary, I finished the sauce with a splash of 2 garlic cloves, minced became misshapen. We got tender, perfectly sherry vinegar for acidity and a smattering of chopped spherical results—and eliminated messy splat- Meatballs tering oil—by skipping browning and simply 1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, the meatballs in the sauce. Sure, we 300 Meatballs torn into 1-inch pieces miss out on any flavor that browning normally and Counting 1 large egg provides, but our sauce is so deeply savory Associate Editor Annie 2 tablespoons water that it doesn’t matter. Petito rolled hundreds 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, divided of meatballs while devel- 2 garlic cloves, minced oping her recipe for 1 teaspoon table salt Spanish-Style Meatballs ½ teaspoon pepper in Almond Sauce. 1 pound ground pork 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup finely chopped onion RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL ½ teaspoon paprika Find these recipes in our archive: Patatas Bravas 1 cup chicken broth (May/June 2016), Spanish-Style Garlic Shrimp SIMMERED BROWNED ½ cup dry white wine (January/February 2008), and The Best Sangria Perfectly round and Misshapen, with slightly (May/June 1998). 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled tender throughout tough, thick crust 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

2019 annual 11 Pork Chile Verde Our new-school approach to making stew brings every element of this tangy, fragrant, meaty Mexican classic to its full potential.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

efore I delve into the specifics When the vegetables were charred, of my recipe for chile verde con I peeled the chiles and garlic, discarding cerdo, the classic Mexican stew the skins (there was no need to peel the of pork simmered in a tangy thin-skinned tomatillos), and blitzed every- tomatilloB and green chile sauce, I have a thing in a food processor until it formed a secret to share: When it comes to brais- rough puree. Then I sautéed some ing meat, all recipes work more or less and cumin in a Dutch oven before adding the same way. the salsa, pork, and a few cups of chicken Of course, I’m not talking about specific broth blended with water; bringing it all to ingredients. American pot roast, daube a simmer; and the mixture gently Provençal, and pork vindaloo are made in the oven. with completely different seasonings and The pork turned nicely tender after taste nothing alike. But if you look closely 90 minutes, but the liquid remained thin at how each dish is put together, the even after I cooked the chili for another processes have the same basic approach: hour. Plus, it tasted sharp and lacked the Brown the meat to build a flavorful fond, meaty backbone that any chili should have. add a modest amount of liquid, cover the The savory flavor produced by browning pot, and simmer it all gently until the meat would balance the acidity nicely, but I had is tender and the liquid has reduced to a a workaround that allowed me to leave the concentrated, deeply savory sauce. stew meat alone: browning the pork trim- The beauty of this universal framework is mings instead. It’s a trick we’ve used when that once you know how it works, you can we want to build fond without subjecting make countless variations. Tuscan peposo. the meat to a hard sear. Chinese red-cooked beef. Hungarian goulash. I placed the trimmings (chopped coarse Even if you’re not familiar with a particular to maximize their surface area) in a Dutch braise, you have a road map for how to make oven with a cup of water and brought the it­—a pretty powerful culinary tool. With no added broth or water, the concentrated tomatillo and green chile mixture to a simmer. Strange as that sounds, That’s where I started with my recipe sauce clings nicely to the meat. we’ve found that you can produce a much for chile verde. When I applied the basic richer fond by simmering the meat first, formula along with a handful of the test kitchen’s best Skipping browning saves time and prevents the meat’s since the liquid extracts meat juices and fat much braising practices, I found my way to a dish of tender exterior from drying out. more thoroughly than does; when the liquid pork cloaked in a vibrant, meaty sauce—perfect for Charring the vegetables, a common step in prepar- evaporates, the bottom of the pot is coated with a serving alongside rice or tucking into warm tortillas. ing chile verde, concentrates their flavors and imbues substantial layer of fond. them with a pleasant touch of bitterness. So while the Built on that rich layer of fond, the chili tasted Scrappy Tricks salted pork rested, I loaded up a foil-lined rimmed noticeably meatier. In fact, a good bit of browning Fat-streaked, collagen-rich boneless pork butt roast is baking sheet with tomatillos (husked, rinsed, and had accumulated on the interior walls of the pot, almost always the cut used in this chili; during cook- dried), moderately spicy poblano chiles (stemmed, too. Letting the pot sit covered after braising trapped ing, the collagen breaks down into gelatin that turns halved, and seeded), a large onion (cut through the steam that loosened that “side fond” so that I could the pork supple. I trimmed a roughly 4-pound roast, root end into wedges), and a handful of unpeeled scrape every last bit into the chili. But the chili’s cut it into 11/2-inch chunks (which would be as easy to garlic cloves. I drizzled the vegetables with oil and consistency was still so soupy that the pork pieces eat wrapped in a tortilla as from a fork), and seasoned slid the sheet under the broiler for about 10 minutes. floated in it like little icebergs. it with kosher salt to help it stay juicy. I didn’t brown the pieces; we often forgo that step when meat sit- ting above the surface of the liquid will brown during What Makes This Chili “Verde”? braising (as it would here) and/or when a sauce has so Hint: It’s more than just green chiles. The braising liquid much flavor that a lack of browning isn’t noticeable. gets its vibrant flavor and color from four key components. Poblanos: Moderately spicy, herbal STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Tomatillos: Tangy (their pectin also thickens the sauce) NUTRITION INFORMATION Jalapeño: Spicy, grassy CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 Cilantro: Fresh PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 12 Put the Salsa to Work A Smarter Way to Braise Clearly, there was too much liquid in the pot, so Braising meat in a stew such as our Green Chili with Pork (Chile Verde con Cerdo) is simple: You build I incrementally decreased the amounts of broth and up flavorful browning and then slowly simmer the meat in a covered pot until it’s tender and the modest water I was adding—until I eliminated both alto- amount of braising liquid reduces to a flavorful sauce. Our updated approach still incorporates those key gether. The salsa alone made a fine braising liquid elements, but we’ve rethought every step to maximize flavor and efficiency. and reduced to a tight, concentrated sauce by the time the meat was tender. The pectin-rich tomatillos helped, too, thickening the sauce as it cooked. I tweaked the flavors, adding a jalapeño for more distinct but measured heat; bay leaves for herbal depth; , cloves, and sugar for subtle warmth and sweetness; and minced cilantro for freshness. The contrast between the rich pork and the tangy, spicy sauce reminded me why chile verde is one of the world’s greatest braises, and I was gratified to think that my method had made it even more efficient.

GREEN CHILI WITH PORK (CHILE VERDE CON CERDO) SALT MEAT BROWN TRIMMINGS, NOT MEAT SERVES 6 TO 8 for 1 hour seasons the meat Searing the trimmings creates savory flavor while allowing TOTAL TIME: 2¾ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR SALTING and keeps it moist during cooking. the unbrowned stew meat (added later) to stay juicy.

Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. If your jalapeño is shorter than 3 inches long, you may wish to use two. If fresh tomatillos are unavailable, substitute three 11-ounce cans of tomatillos, drained, rinsed, and patted dry; broil as directed. Serve with white rice and/or warm corn tortillas.

1 (31- to 4-pound) boneless pork butt roast, trimmed and cut into 11-inch pieces, trimmings reserved 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1 cup water ADD MINIMAL LIQUID, BRAISE IN OVEN, COVER; SCRAPE DOWN THEN MEAT NOT ON STOVE SIDES 1½ pounds tomatillos, husks and stems removed, Less liquid makes for a tighter, The oven’s ambient heat cooks Trapping steam loosens the flavor- rinsed well and dried more concentrated sauce, which the stew evenly, so you have ful fond stuck on the walls of the 5 poblano chiles, stemmed, halved, and seeded takes on the meat’s savory depth to stir the pot only once. pot; incorporating the fond makes 1 large onion, cut into 8 wedges through during braising. the stew more savory. root end 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled 1 jalapeño chile, stemmed and halved Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until dark Add poblanos, jalapeño, and garlic to proces- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil fond forms on bottom of pot and trimmings have sor. Pulse until mixture is roughly pureed, about 1 teaspoon dried oregano browned and crisped, about 6 minutes longer. Using 10 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. 1 teaspoon ground cumin slotted spoon, discard trimmings. Pour off all but If spicier chili is desired, add reserved jalapeño seeds 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons fat; set aside pot. and pulse 3 times. Pinch ground cloves 2. Adjust 1 oven rack to lower-middle position and 4. Heat reserved fat in pot over medium heat 2 bay leaves second rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat until just shimmering. Add oregano, cumin, cinna- 2 teaspoons sugar broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum mon, and cloves and cook, stirring constantly, until 1 teaspoon pepper foil. Place tomatillos, poblanos, onion, garlic, and jala- fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatillo mixture, ½ cup minced fresh cilantro, plus peño on prepared sheet and drizzle with oil. Arrange bay leaves, sugar, pepper, and remaining 1 teaspoon extra for serving chiles skin side up. Broil until chile skins are blackened salt, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in pork and Lime wedges and vegetables begin to soften, 10 to 13 minutes, bring to simmer. Cover, transfer to oven, and cook rotating sheet halfway through broiling. Transfer until pork is tender, about 11/2 hours, stirring halfway 1. Toss pork pieces with 1 tablespoon salt in large poblanos, jalapeño, and garlic to cutting board. through cooking. bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, 3. Turn off broiler and heat oven to 325 degrees. 5. Remove pot from oven and let sit, covered, chop pork trimmings coarse. Transfer to Dutch Transfer tomatillos, onion, and any accumulated for 10 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Using heatproof oven. Add water and bring to simmer over high heat. juices to food processor. When poblanos, jalapeño, rubber spatula, scrape browned bits from sides of Cook, adjusting heat to maintain vigorous simmer and garlic are cool enough to handle, remove and pot. Stir in any fat that has risen to top of chili. Stir in and stirring occasionally, until all liquid evaporates discard skins (it’s OK if some small bits of chile skin cilantro; season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, and trimmings begin to sizzle, about 12 minutes. remain). Remove seeds from jalapeño and reserve. passing lime wedges and extra cilantro separately.

2019 annual 13 Spanish Pork Kebabs A union of spices and char flavorspinchos morunos. But for juicy meat, separation is key.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

f you’re not familiar with pinchos morunos, let 6 garlic cloves, minced me fill you in: The dish consists of chunks of 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger pork that are heavily seasoned with a bright, 2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano, divided heady spice paste (lemon, garlic, smoked 2 teaspoons smoked paprika paprika,I cumin, and coriander are common com- 1 teaspoon ground coriander ponents); skewered; charred over hot coals; and 1 teaspoon table salt served as part of a tapas spread. Pincho (“spike” or 1/ teaspoon ground cumin “thorn”) points to cooking the meat -style; 1/ teaspoon pepper morunos implies a Moorish influence. I’ve become 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper such a fan of the dish that I’ve taken to serving pin- chos not just as a tapa but as the center of a meal. 1. Dissolve 3 tablespoons salt in 11/2 quarts Getting to a great recipe required overcoming the cold water in large container. Submerge ribs inherent challenge of pork kebabs: The cuts that are in brine and let stand at room temperature for typically used—tenderloin and loin—are lean, which 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk oil, lemon juice, means they are unforgiving on a hot grill and can garlic, ginger, 1 teaspoon oregano, paprika, corian- easily turn dry and mealy. But there is another choice der, salt, cumin, pepper, and cayenne in small bowl that’s easy to find and fashion into bite-size pieces: until combined. country-style ribs. In an early test, this cut showed 2. Remove pork from brine and pat dry with promise, so I decided to move forward with it. paper towels. Cut ribs into 1-inch chunks; place A salty marinade helped the pork retain some dark meat and light meat in separate bowls. Divide moisture, but the meat needed all the help it could spice paste proportionately between bowls and toss get to stay juicy, so I opted for a brine, which would to coat. Thread light and dark meat onto separate draw water into the meat. I would incorporate the We heavily char the dark meat, which can stand to (do not crowd pieces). Place dark meat seasonings from the marinade in the form of a spice stay on the grill longer than the leaner white meat. kebabs on left side of rimmed baking sheet and light paste applied just before . meat kebabs on right side. As I worked, I noticed that the pork behaved a SPANISH GRILLED PORK KEBABS 3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot- lot like chicken: Even when I left it on the grill long (PINCHOS MORUNOS) tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter enough to char, the darker meat stayed juicy, thanks to SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When its more abundant fat and collagen, whereas the leaner, top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly lighter bites were dry. We cook light- and dark-meat You will need four or five 12-inch metal skewers for over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, chicken to different temperatures, so why not do the this recipe. Look for country-style ribs with an even and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, same with pork? I placed two skewers of dark meat distribution of light and dark meat. We prefer natural about 5 minutes. over the coals. Six minutes later, I added two skewers pork, but if your pork is enhanced (injected with a 3B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to of light meat. At 155 degrees, the dark meat was well salt solution), do not brine it in step 1. high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. charred yet still tender and juicy; the light meat was Leave primary burner on high and turn off other lightly charred and beautifully moist at 140 degrees. 3 tablespoons table salt, for brining burner(s). Finally, I perfected the spice paste. Lemon, garlic, 2 pounds boneless country-style pork ribs, 4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place dark meat and spices (such as cayenne and black pepper for heat) trimmed on hotter side of grill and cook for 6 minutes. Flip offered complexity. Ginger added zing, and fresh 1/4 cup vegetable oil dark meat and add light meat to hotter side of grill. oregano—mixed into the paste and sprinkled onto 2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus lemon wedges Cook for 4 minutes, then flip all kebabs. Continue to the cooked kebabs—contributed herbal freshness. for serving cook, flipping kebabs every 4 minutes, until dark meat is well charred and registers 155 degrees and light meat is lightly charred and registers 140 degrees, 4 to The Dark (and Light) Side of Country-Style Ribs 8 minutes longer. Transfer to serving platter, tent with Country-style ribs are cut from the backbone where the shoulder aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Remove Dark shoulder meat meets the loin; therefore, they contain meat from both regions. pork from skewers, toss to combine, sprinkle with Because the shoulder muscle uses energy for extended periods, remaining 1 teaspoon oregano, and serve, passing it’s rich in fat, which acts as fuel, and the red protein myoglobin, lemon wedges separately. which accounts for its darker color. The lesser-worked loin area is Light loin meat leaner and lighter. Given these traits, the dark meat can be cooked STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND to a higher temperature and still stay juicy, but the leaner light meat NUTRITION INFORMATION TWO-TONE RIBS needs to be a cooked to a lower temperature lest it dry out. CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 14 Spiral-Sliced Ham Done Right Our ham is moist and juicy—and every bite benefits from the flavors of the glaze.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

any recipes for spiral-sliced 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position ham—which has been and heat oven to 250 degrees. Line rimmed baking injected with or immersed sheet with aluminum foil and set wire rack in sheet. in a brine of water, cur- Unwrap ham and, if necessary, discard plastic disk ingM salt, and a sweetener; fully cooked; covering bone. Place ham cut side down in oven and smoked by the manufacturer—call for bag. Insert temperature probe (if using) through top heating the ham in a pan covered of ham into center. Tie bag shut and place ham cut in foil in a 325-degree oven. But I found side down on prepared wire rack. Bake until center this approach to be flawed: By the time the registers 110 degrees, 31/2 to 41/2 hours. center of the meat is warm, the exterior is 2. Bring sugar, water, and corn syrup to boil in certain to be parched. large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium‑high Then there is the sweet glaze that is tra- heat. Cook, without stirring, until mixture is ditionally painted onto the ham. It’s a great straw‑colored, 6 to 8 minutes. While sugar mixture contrast to the smoky, salty meat, but I’m cooks, microwave vinegar in bowl until , always disappointed that it flavors only the about 90 seconds; set aside. Once sugar mixture is very edge of the thin slices. What’s more, straw‑colored, reduce heat to low and continue to many recipes call for returning the ham to cook, swirling saucepan occasionally, until mixture is a hot oven for 20 to 30 minutes to help the dark amber–colored and just smoking and registers sugary glaze caramelize and set, a surefire 360 to 370 degrees, 2 to 5 minutes longer. Off heat, way to further desiccate the exterior. add warm vinegar a little at a time, whisking after I had a better way: I slid the ham into each addition (some caramel may harden but will an oven bag and placed it in an oven set to melt as sauce continues to cook). When bubbling just 250 degrees. The gentle heat warmed subsides, add pepper and five-spice powder. Cook the interior and exterior of the ham at a over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until similar rate. Meanwhile, the bag trapped reduced to 11/3 cups, 5 to 7 minutes. juices, creating a humid environment that 3. Remove sheet from oven and increase oven transferred heat more efficiently than dry temperature to 450 degrees. Once oven reaches air. In fact, when we compared two hams temperature, remove ham from bag and transfer heated at 250 degrees—one in an oven We make plenty of caramel glaze and then thin some of it with to carving board. Reserve 1/4 cup juices from bag; bag and one covered in foil—the bagged ham juices to create a sauce to accompany the smoky, salty meat. discard bag and remaining juices. Remove wire rack, ham came to temperature 25 percent (or leaving foil in place, and return ham to sheet, cut 1 hour) faster than the foil-covered one. (That’s not drizzled onto the slices so that every bite—not just side down. Brush ham evenly with 1/3 cup caramel. just because an oven bag speeds cooking; since foil the ones on the edge—would taste just right. Transfer sheet to oven and cook until glaze is bub- reflects heat, it actually slows down cooking.) bling and starting to brown in places, 5 to 7 minutes. To fix the issues with the glaze, I started by mak- SPIRAL-SLICED HAM GLAZED Add reserved juices to remaining 1 cup caramel and ing a generous amount of caramel on the stovetop; WITH CIDER-VINEGAR CARAMEL whisk to combine. augmenting it with cider vinegar, pepper, and SERVES 12 TO 14 TOTAL TIME: 4¼ TO 5¼ HOURS 4. Slice ham and serve, passing caramel sauce five‑spice powder; and brushing some of it onto separately. the ham. With the step taken care We recommend a shank-end ham because the bone of in advance, the ham needed only 5 minutes in a configuration makes it easier to carve; look for a half 450-degree oven for the glaze to develop a mahog- ham with a tapered, pointed end. We developed What Is an Oven Bag, any sheen. (I pulled the ham from the 250-degree this recipe using Turkey Size Reynolds Kitchens Anyway? oven when it registered 110 degrees, knowing that Oven Bags. The United Kingdom–based baking products the final blast in a hot oven would cause the meat company Bakewell claims it created the first to climb to the desired 120 to 125 degrees for serv- 1 (7- to 10-pound) spiral-sliced, bone-in half oven cooking bag in 1966 under the brand ing.) Next, I stirred some of the meaty ham juices ham, preferably shank end name LOOK. Reynolds Kitchens introduced that were trapped in the oven bag into the remain- 1 large oven bag its own oven bag not long after. Though these ing caramel. This sweet, tart, savory sauce could be 11/4 cups sugar bags have the flimsy look and feel of plastic ½ cup water storage bags, they are actually manufactured STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND 3 tablespoons light corn syrup from heat-resistant nylon that contains no NUTRITION INFORMATION 11/4 cups cider vinegar bisphenol A (BPA) or other objectionable CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 ½ teaspoon pepper chemicals and are heatproof up to 400 degrees.

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: 1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder

2019 annual 15 Tuscan Grilled Pork Ribs With no sauce and minimal seasoning, rosticciana forgoes the hallmarks of American in favor of one distinct feature: juicy, unadulterated pork.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

ou probably know ribs as a I’d come across rosticciana recipes that low‑and-slow affair featuring called for cutting the racks into individual fall-off-the-bone meat that’s ribs before cooking, which seemed like been steeped in smoke and a good way to expose more meat to the Ycoated with a flavorful rub or sauce. flavor of the grill. When I tried it, each rib Tuscan grilled pork spareribs, known as became encased in a crisp crust; even better, rosticciana (“RO-stee-chee-AH-na”), the individual ribs cooked quickly, cutting are not those ribs. the total time spent on the grill to about Their preparation falls in line with the 20 minutes. less-is-more ethos of Tuscan cuisine, where But managing 20-odd pieces over the foods are seasoned sparingly to allow their hot fire was tricky. So instead of cutting natural flavors to shine. In this case, it’s the racks into individual ribs, I cut them all about the pork, so the seasonings are into two-rib segments (see “Cutting Ribs restricted to salt, pepper, and maybe a hint Two by Two”). This gave me pieces with of garlic or rosemary. Then the ribs are plenty of surface area for browning but grilled quickly—typically for only 15 to half as many pieces to shuffle and a thicker 30 minutes—over a hot fire until the meat pocket of meat between each pair of bones is browned and crisp but still succulent and that I hoped would stay juicy. That pocket clinging to the bone with satisfying chew. also provided a place to check the meat’s Eating them with your hands is a truly temperature, which needed to hit 175 to primal experience. 185 degrees to allow just a little collagen That said, I couldn’t wrap my head breakdown and leave the ribs with a desir- around the concept of ribs that weren’t bar- ably meaty chew. becue until I tasted these. The smoky meat To ensure that the ribs would be as juicy was juicy in a way I never knew ribs could as possible, I salted them an hour before be and purely porky without the distraction cooking. Though not typical for rostic- of smoke and spices. I was hooked. Drizzling the grilled ribs with a punchy lemon vinaigrette balances the rich ciana, salting altered the meat’s protein pork without obscuring its flavor. structure so that it was better able to retain Spare Me moisture during cooking—and helped Spareribs are cut close to the belly of the pig. A full I flipped them every few minutes for the better part season it, too. rack contains the bone and surrounding brisket of a half-hour until they were deeply browned. The meat and often weighs about 5 pounds. To produce ribs were relatively juicy because they retained much A Light Touch smaller, more rectangular racks, butchers remove of their natural moisture during the brief cooking Well-browned, well-seasoned, pleasantly chewy, the brisket portion; this cut is called St. Louis–style process. (Slow-cooked ribs, on the other hand, lose and juicy as can be, these ribs were entirely satisfy- spareribs. Meaty, flavorful, and easy to work with, it their natural moisture and taste moist only thanks to ing. They didn’t need any adornment, though I was has become our go-to cut for most rib recipes. gelatin.) The surface browning was great, but could intrigued by the light-handed finishes I saw in some Stretched across the rack’s underside is a tough, I have even more of it? rosticciana recipes: a sprinkling of chopped garlic papery membrane that we sometimes leave intact when barbecuing since it softens during the long cooking time. But because these ribs would spend TECHNIQUE HOW TO REMOVE THE MEMBRANE FROM SPARERIBS very little time over the fire, I stripped the mem- The papery membrane on the rack’s branes from two racks (see “How to Remove the underside is chewy and unpleasant Membrane from Spareribs”) before brushing them to eat. Here’s how to remove it. with oil to jump‑start browning, seasoning them 1. Slip the tip of a paring knife with salt and pepper, and laying them meat side down under the edge of the membrane over a medium-hot fire. Once they started to color, on each rack to loosen it. 2. Gripping the loosened edge STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND with a paper towel, slowly pull off NUTRITION INFORMATION the membrane. It should come off CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 in a single piece. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 16 Ribs That Break the Rules Throw Some Veg on the Fire Rosticciana isn’t like American barbecue. The meat isn’t coated with sauce or rubbed with a heady spice mix- Rosticciana is usually ture, and instead of being fall-apart tender, it boasts satisfying chew. But this minimalist, meat-centric profile is served as part of a exactly what defines Tuscan cuisine and what allows the flavor of the juicy, well-browned pork to stand out. mixed grilled spread of meats such as chicken SATISFYING CHEW REALLY JUICY MEAT parts, , and Quickly grilling the ribs Salting the ribs and only CRISP AND steak, along with NO SAUCE OR breaks down just enough briefly grilling them ensures BROWNED ALL sides such as roasted SPICE RUB collagen so the meat that the meat cooks up juicy. OVER The ribs are seasoned with retains some bite. Cutting the racks into potatoes, white beans, nothing but salt (applied two‑rib sections creates lots and sautéed spinach. an hour before cooking so of surface area for flavorful But since these ribs that it penetrates the meat) browning and crispy edges. cook quickly, we like and pepper, so you really taste the pork. to use the still‑hot fire to grill a vegetable. Radicchio’s pleasant bitterness and crunch make it a perfect part- ner for the rich meat.

GRILLED RADICCHIO SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES

Turning the wedges during cooking ensures that all sides, including the rounded one, spend time and rosemary, a brush with an oil-dipped rosemary 1. FOR THE RIBS: Pat ribs dry with paper facing the fire. sprig, or a squeeze of lemon. towels. Rub evenly on both sides with salt and place My take—a vinaigrette incorporating all three on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Let stand 3 heads radicchio (10 ounces each), of those elements, which I drizzled over the meat at room temperature for 1 hour. quartered at the table—started with minced garlic and fresh 2. FOR THE VINAIGRETTE: Combine oil, 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil rosemary, which I briefly microwaved in olive oil garlic, and rosemary in small bowl and microwave Balsamic vinegar to temper their harsh raw flavors. Stirring some until fragrant and just starting to bubble, about fresh lemon juice into the warm infused oil created 30 seconds. Stir in lemon juice and set aside. 1. Place radicchio on rimmed baking sheet, a vibrant, savory dressing that complemented the 3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot- brush with oil, and season with salt and pepper rich pork. tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter to taste. Take it from me, a skeptic at first: These ribs will filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When 2. Grill radicchio over medium-hot fire (cov- be unlike any others you’ve had. In fact, with no top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly ered if using gas), turning every 11/2 minutes, until barbecue sauce or spice rub, it might be like tasting over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and edges are browned and wilted but centers are still ribs for the first time. open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about slightly firm, about 5 minutes. Transfer radicchio 5 minutes. to serving dish, drizzle with vinegar, and serve. TUSCAN GRILLED PORK RIBS (ROSTICCIANA) 3B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to SERVES 4 TO 6 high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 min- TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR SALTING utes. Turn all burners to medium-high. CUTTING RIBS TWO BY TWO 4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush meat side When portioning the meat into two-rib sections, of ribs with oil and sprinkle with pepper. Place ribs start at the thicker end of the rack. If you are left meat side down on grill. Cover and cook until meat with a three-rib piece at the tapered end, grill it as side begins to develop spotty browning and light such. Take the temperature of the meat between but defined grill marks, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip ribs and the bones. cook, covered, until second side is lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes, moving ribs as needed to ensure Ribs even browning. Flip again and cook, covered, until 2 (21- to 3‑pound) racks St. Louis–style meat side is deeply browned with slight charring spareribs, trimmed, membrane removed, and thick ends of ribs register 175 to 185 degrees, and each rack cut into 2-rib sections 4 to 6 minutes. 2 teaspoons kosher salt 5. Transfer ribs to cutting board and let rest Cutting the racks into two-rib sections increases 1 tablespoon vegetable oil for 10 minutes. Cut ribs between bones and serve, the meat’s surface area for flavorful browning and 1 teaspoon pepper passing vinaigrette separately. provides a meaty pocket between the two bones for easily taking the pork’s temperature.

Vinaigrette RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL ( Starting at the thicker end of the rack, portion 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Find these sides in our archive: Roast Potatoes the meat into two-rib sections. You might be left 2 garlic cloves, minced (May/June 1998) and Sautéed Garlic-Lemon Spinach with a three-rib piece at the tapered end of the 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary (January/February 2003). rack, which can be grilled as such. 2 tablespoons lemon juice

2019 annual 17 Why (and How to) Roast Duck Rich and dark inside and out, duck is—as Julia Child once said—“a bird of a different feather entirely.” That’s also true when it comes to cooking it properly.

j BY LAN LAM k

o all the dark meat lovers out there: You’ve been roasting the wrong bird. All due respect to succulent chicken and turkey leg quarters, but they make up only Ta fraction of the whole bird, which is why you should consider roasting duck. It’s all dark meat, since both the breast and leg portions are well-exercised muscles with ample fat, and it’s imbued with a sultry, bass-note richness that chicken and turkey just don’t have. The duck’s breast is also relatively flat, which enables its skin to brown remarkably evenly, and it’s versatile for entertaining: Pair one bird with a bright sauce and you’ve got an intimate dinner party showpiece. Roast two—doable in one pan—and you can feed a crowd. Here’s the catch: The qualities that make duck special to eat also make it a challenge to cook well. But I’ve got an approachable method all figured out. Allow me to explain.

What Makes Duck Different Think of duck as the “red meat” of poultry. Its dark crimson color and rich, assertive flavor—even in the breast meat—come from the myoglobin in Crosshatching the skin through the fat allows salt to penetrate the meat, seasoning it and helping it retain juices. its abundant red muscle fibers, which are necessary It also creates channels for rendered fat to escape, as well as edges that crisp. for endurance activities such as flying. (Turkeys and chickens have fewer muscle fibers because they penetrate more deeply over a 6-hour rest. Salting breast meat reaches its target doneness temperature perform only quick bursts of flight.) Duck is also the duck helps keep it juicy and thoroughly seasons of 160 degrees. The upshot: a superbly flavorful, much fattier than other poultry: Its edible portion the rich meat to highlight its full flavor. perfectly cooked holiday centerpiece that your guests (meat and skin) contains about 28 percent fat, while are sure to remember for a long time to come. the edible portion of a chicken contains between Use a Two-Stage Cooking Method 2.5 and 8 percent fat. Most of that fat builds up as a Cooking duck presents the same familiar challenge thick layer of subcutaneous padding that adds to the as cooking other types of whole poultry: getting Tips for Crosshatching bird’s insulation and buoyancy in the water. Finally, the breasts and legs to cook at the same rate. But duck breasts are thinner, flatter, and blockier than because duck breast is thinner than chicken or other poultry breasts, and their wings are longer. turkey breast, it cooks through even more quickly The breed you’re most likely to find in supermar- than they do, making it even more of a challenge kets, Pekin, weighs a pound or so more than an to get the tougher legs and thighs to turn tender average chicken. and succulent before the breast overcooks and dries out. The Importance of Proper Prep My solution: Give the leg portions a head start Because duck is so fatty, it’s important not only to by braising them. I do this by submerging the trim it thoroughly of excess fat around the neck and bottom half of the ducks in water in a roasting 1. USE THE TIP OF YOUR KNIFE This cavity but also to treat its skin like the fat cap on a pan and vigorously simmering them on the stove allows you to feel exactly where you’re cutting. pork or beef roast and score it extensively. These until the leg quarters register 145 to 160 degrees. 2. MAKE MULTIPLE STROKES PER CUT channels, which I cut into the breast as well as the Meanwhile, because the breasts don’t have contact Because it’s tricky to cut to exactly where the thighs, also allow the salt rubbed over the skin to with the water, they cook more slowly and reach fat hits the meat, first slice through the skin and only 110 to 130 degrees. At that point, I move the some fat, and then run the knife tip through the STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND birds to a V-rack, glaze them, put them back in the slit to get down to the meat. NUTRITION INFORMATION roasting pan (emptied of braising liquid) and move 3. TRY NOT TO NICK THE MEAT If you CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 them to the oven. The leg quarters are far enough do, dark juices can leak and stain the bird.

along that they will turn tender by the time the BURGOYNE JOHN ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 18 WHOLE ROAST DUCKS WITH CHERRY SAUCE 2 teaspoons cornstarch oven to 425 degrees. Stir maple syrup and soy sauce SERVES 8 TOTAL TIME: 3 HOURS, PLUS 6 HOURS SALTING ½ teaspoon pepper together in bowl. 2 sprigs fresh 4. Set V-rack on rimmed baking sheet and spray Pekin ducks may also be labeled as Long Island 18 ounces frozen sweet cherries, quartered with vegetable oil spray. Remove roasting pan from ducks and are typically sold frozen. Thaw the ducks heat. Using tongs and spatula, lift ducks from pan one in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Use a roasting pan 1. FOR THE DUCKS: Working with 1 duck at a at a time, allow liquid to drain, and transfer to V-rack, that measures at least 14 by 12 inches. This recipe time, use your hands to remove large fat deposits from breast side up. Brush breasts and tops of drumsticks was developed with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. bottom of cavity. Using kitchen shears, trim excess with approximately one-third of maple syrup mixture. If using Morton kosher salt, use 25 percent less. neck skin from top of breast; remove tail and first Flip ducks and brush remaining mixture over backs Do not thaw the cherries before using. If desired, 2 segments from each wing, leaving only drumette. and sides. Transfer braising liquid to pot or large bowl pulse the cherries in a food processor until coarsely Arrange duck breast side up. With tip of sharp knife, to cool. (Once cool, defat liquid and reserve liquid chopped. In step 4, the crumpled aluminum foil cut slits spaced ¾ inch apart in crosshatch pattern in and/or fat for another use, if desired.) Rinse roasting prevents the rendered fat from smoking. Even skin and fat of breast, being careful not to cut into pan and wipe with wad of paper towels. Crumple when the duck is fully cooked, its juices will have a meat. Flip duck breast side down. Cut parallel slits 20-inch length of aluminum foil into loose ball. reddish hue. For ideas on how to use duck fat and spaced 3 inch apart in skin and fat of each thigh (do Uncrumple foil and place in roasting pan. Set V-rack extra duck meat, information on how to reheat not crosshatch). on foil. Roast until backs are golden brown and breasts leftovers, and our recipe for Duck Stock made with 2. Rub 2 teaspoons salt into cavity of 1 duck. Rub register 140 to 150 degrees, about 20 minutes. the braising liquid, go to CooksIllustrated.com/ 1 teaspoon salt into breast, taking care to rub salt 5. Remove roasting pan from oven. Using tongs duck. Our recipe for a single Whole Roast Duck into slits. Rub 1 tablespoon salt into skin of rest of and spatula, flip ducks breast side up. Continue to with Cherry Sauce is available to Web subscribers duck. Align skin at bottom of cavity so 1 side over- roast until breasts register 160 to 165 degrees, 15 to at CooksIllustrated.com/dec19. laps other by at least 1/2 inch. Use sturdy toothpick 25 minutes longer. Transfer ducks to carving board to pin skin layers to each other to close cavity. Place and let rest for 20 minutes. Ducks duck on rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with second 6. FOR THE CHERRY SAUCE: Whisk maple 2 (5½- to 6-pound) Pekin ducks, necks and duck. Refrigerate uncovered for 6 to 24 hours. syrup, vinegar, soy sauce, cornstarch, and pepper giblets reserved if making stock 3. Place ducks breast side up in roasting pan. Add together in small saucepan. Add thyme sprigs and 1/4 cup kosher salt, divided water until at least half of thighs are submerged but bring to simmer over medium-high heat, stirring 2 tablespoons maple syrup most of breasts remain above water, about 14 cups. constantly with rubber spatula. Continue to cook, stir- 1 tablespoon soy sauce Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to main- ring constantly, until mixture thickens, 2 to 3 minutes tain vigorous simmer. Cook until thermometer longer. Stir in cherries and cook, stirring occasion- Cherry Sauce inserted into thickest part of drumstick, all the way ally, until sauce has consistency of maple syrup, 5 to 1/3 cup maple syrup to bone, registers 145 to 160 degrees, 45 minutes 8 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and season with salt 1/4 cup red wine vinegar to 1 hour 5 minutes. After 20 minutes of cooking, and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl. Carve 4 teaspoons soy sauce adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat duck and serve, passing sauce separately.

PREP BRAISE, THEN ROAST

1. Using kitchen shears, trim excess 2. Remove tail and first 2 segments 1. Place ducks in roasting pan and 2. Using tongs and spatula, lift ducks neck skin from top of breast. from each wing, leaving only drumette. add water to submerge thighs at least from pan one at a time, allow to drain, halfway. Simmer until thickest part of and transfer to V-rack, breast side up. drumstick registers 145 to 160 degrees.

3. With tip of sharp knife, cut cross- 4. Align skin at bottom of cavity so 3. Brush breasts and tops of drumsticks 4. Roast until breasts register 140 to hatch pattern in skin and fat of breast. 1 side overlaps other; use toothpick to with one-third of maple syrup mixture. 150 degrees. Flip ducks and continue to Cut parallel slits in skin and fat of each pin layers to each other to close cavity. Flip ducks and brush remaining mixture roast, breast side up, until breasts regis- thigh. Rub salt into cavity and deep into Repeat steps 1 through 4 with second over backs and sides. ter 160 to 165 degrees. scored skin and fat. duck. Refrigerate for 6 to 24 hours.

2019 annual 19 How to Braise Chicken Parts Braising delivers succulent meat and a rich, velvety sauce—no wonder it’s a classic way to cook chicken. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing new to add.

j BY LAN LAM k

emember the Corn Flakes slo- required would take oven braising—our gan that Kellogg’s ran in the preferred approach since it cooks the meat late ’80s, “Taste them again so gently and evenly—off the table. Instead, for the first time”? This brais- I opted for a staggered method: I placed the Ring story is my culinary equivalent of that browned legs and thighs in the simmering campaign—a pitch to rediscover an old liquid and cooked them to 140 degrees, classic. I recently spent some time reac- which took about 8 minutes. The breasts quainting myself with the basic tenets of went in next, at which point I moved the braising chicken parts—both white and pot to the oven, where everything cooked at dark meat—and learned several ways to a leisurely pace until the dark meat and the make a good dish a whole lot better. thickest parts of the breasts hit 195 degrees Before we dig in, a refresher on what and 160 degrees, respectively. I was happy exactly braising is and why it’s an ideal way to have nailed those temperatures, but the to cook chicken: It involves browning food breast meat—particularly the tapered ends— and then partially covering it with liquid in a was dry and chalky. lidded pot and simmering it gently until the The next time around, I halved the meat is tender. As it simmers, the cooking breasts crosswise, separating the thinner liquid takes on the meat’s flavor to create tapered ends from the thicker broad ends a luxurious, deeply savory sauce that you so that I could add the thin pieces to the spoon over the meat. pot last. I also brined the chicken before Chicken is great for braising. It’s got skin cooking. Meat destined for braising is not that renders loads of fat and collagen, which typically brined, but this unorthodox step add flavor and lush body to the sauce, and greatly improved the white meat, keeping meat that turns tender and gives up savory it moist and tender, and offered extra insur- juices. But those assets can become liabili- ance that the thighs stay moist. ties if not handled properly. Chicken skin Adding a little flour to the rendered fat helps emulsify the sauce so that it It took a few tries to find the final order can stick to the pot and tear away from the coats the chicken. of operations, but I eventually came up meat, or its fat can make the sauce greasy. with the following routine: Give the dark And then there’s the age-old issue when cooking the braising liquid as the meat simmered (it could be meat an 8-minute head start, nestle the broad ends chicken parts: Dark meat takes longer to cook than discarded before serving). The fat would add savory of the breasts into the pot skin side down, flip them white meat does. flavor, and the collagen would transform into gelatin, 5 minutes later (I found that they needed to cook on My goal wasn’t to reinvent the wheel. Rather, suffusing the liquid with silkiness. I put the classic method under the microscope to see I set aside the skin-on chicken and sautéed finely if there were any improvements to make that would chopped onion with garlic, thyme, and pepper in the Don’t Get Stuck allow this technique to live up to its full potential. rendered chicken fat, stirring a tablespoon of flour Excess moisture on the skin will cause it to stick into the softened aromatics before deglazing with to the pot and tear away from the meat, so be Back to Basics white wine and water. The starch in the flour would sure to pat the chicken dry before cooking. Doing I started with 4 pounds of split breasts and leg quar- keep the chicken fat emulsified and thicken the sauce, so will also remove excess salt from brining. ters. To shorten the cooking time and make it easier as a roux does for . Voilà—braising liquid. to arrange everything in the pot, I separated the leg quarters into drumsticks and thighs. Staggering Decisions After patting the chicken dry, I browned the Now for the timing issue. White meat is done at skin side of each piece in a Dutch oven to create a 160 degrees, and we’ve determined that dark meat deeply savory fond. Some recipes call for discarding turns ultratender and succulent at 195 degrees, the skin at this point, but I left it on so that all that which is perfect for a braise. We also know that as aforementioned fat and collagen would contribute to it heats up, the chewy collagen in dark meat turns into soft gelatin, and this reaction continues as the STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND temperature climbs. NUTRITION INFORMATION Most recipes for braised chicken call for starting all CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 the pieces together and removing the breasts as they

come up to temperature. The frequent monitoring BURGOYNE JOHN ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 20 STEP BY STEP SECRETS TO PERFECTLY BRAISED CHICKEN PARTS Braising both white and dark meat in the same pot requires a few tweaks to this time-honored technique, including staggering the cooking.

BRINE CHICKEN We brine BROWN (MOST OF) SKIN GIVE DARK MEAT HEAD ADD THICK, THEN THIN, FINISH IN OVEN all the chicken pieces for 30 min- We sear the skin on all the START The long-cooking thighs PARTS OF BREASTS We transfer the pot to the oven, utes and then pat them dry. pieces except the tapered breast and legs (with the skin left on) go We add the thicker broad pieces where the chicken cooks evenly pieces (the most prone to drying into the braising liquid first. first since the thinner tapered and gently until the breasts regis- out) to create a flavorful fond. pieces need less time to cook. ter 160 to 165 degrees. both sides since they were so thick), and finally, add 3 garlic cloves, minced of thick gravy but will thin as chicken cooks.) Add the tapered ends. (Try as I might, I couldn’t prevent 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme broad breast pieces, skin side down, along with any the tapered ends from overcooking if I browned their 1 teaspoon pepper accumulated juices. Cover and cook until broad breast skin, so I left them unbrowned.) Finally, I covered the 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour pieces register 105 to 115 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes. pot and transferred it to a 300-degree oven, where 1/3 cup dry white wine Remove pot from heat. the enveloping heat finished cooking the chicken at a 3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 5. Using tongs, flip broad breast pieces skin side bare simmer. After roughly 20 more minutes, all three 11/ tablespoons whole-grain mustard up. Add tapered breast pieces, skin side up, to pot cuts of chicken were as tender and juicy as could be. 2 teaspoons lemon juice and cover. Transfer pot to oven and cook until breast The only thing that remained was to give the pieces register 160 to 165 degrees, 15 to 30 minutes. sauce some oomph. Whole-grain mustard, fresh 1. Dissolve salt in 2 quarts cold water in large 6. Transfer chicken to serving dish. Discard skin parsley, and lemon juice perked things up. The recipe container. Submerge chicken in brine, cover, and from tapered breast pieces (or all skin, if desired). was easily adaptable by swapping out the mustard refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Remove Sauce should thinly coat back of spoon; if necessary, and herbs for other ingredients, such as tomato and chicken from brine and thoroughly pat dry with simmer until slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir for a Mediterranean version. These recipes will paper towels. Set aside tapered breast pieces. parsley, mustard, and lemon juice into sauce. Season remind you why this technique is a classic. 2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat with salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over chicken oven to 300 degrees. Heat oil in Dutch oven over and serve. BRAISED CHICKEN WITH medium-high heat until just smoking. Place all MUSTARD AND HERBS chicken except reserved tapered breast pieces skin BRAISED CHICKEN WITH BASIL AND TOMATO SERVES 4 TO 6 side down in pot and cook until skin is well browned, TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 30 MINUTES BRINING 5 to 8 minutes. (Reduce heat if pot begins to scorch.) Increase garlic to 4 cloves and add 1/4 teaspoon red Transfer chicken to plate. Pour off all but 2 table- pepper flakes with garlic. Substitute 2 tablespoons Chicken breasts are broader at one end than the other, spoons fat from pot, then reduce heat to medium. tomato paste for thyme and dried oregano for pepper. so cut more than halfway up each breast to create 3. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, Substitute chopped fresh basil for parsley and red wine two pieces of equal mass (see “For More Equal Parts, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, vinegar for lemon juice. Sprinkle chicken with addi- Don’t Cut Down the Middle”). There’s no need and pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 sec- tional 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil before serving. to take the temperature of the dark meat; it will be onds. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, for properly cooked by the time the white meat reaches its 1 minute. Stir in wine and 11/4 cups water, scraping RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL target temperature. If you prefer not to serve the skin, up any browned bits. Find these recipes in our archive: with wait until step 6 to remove it; browning the skin pro- 4. Place thighs and drumsticks skin side up in Shallots, Garlic, and Almonds (January/February 2011) duces flavorful compounds that add complexity to the pot and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover and Green Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts and Brown Butter (November/December 2001). sauce, and braising it releases gelatin, which gives the and cook for 8 minutes. (Sauce will have consistency sauce a rich texture. Our recipes for Braised Chicken with Herbes de Provence and Lemon and Braised Chicken with North African Spices are available to FOR MORE EQUAL PARTS, DON’T CUT DOWN THE MIDDLE web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/apr19. We halve our chicken breasts so we can cook the thinner tapered ends for less time. To help even out the difference between the tapered end and the thicker broad end, we cut each split breast closer to the broad 1/2 cup table salt, for brining end, creating pieces of near equal mass, not equal length. 6.5 OUNCES 1½–2 pounds bone-in split chicken breasts, 5.5 OUNCES trimmed and each cut crosswise into 2 pieces of equal mass 1½–2 pounds chicken leg quarters, separated into drumsticks and thighs, trimmed 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 8 OUNCES 4 OUNCES 1 onion, chopped fine

2019 annual 21 The Easiest Fried Chicken Juicy, deeply seasoned thigh meat encased in a supercrispy crust makes Japanese karaage a fried chicken lover’s dream. Minimal oil and fast frying make it a cinch to cook.

j BY LAN LAM k

’ve never met a bite of fried chicken that felt sandy on the tongue. (Looking at that I didn’t like, but my favorite is photos of karaage, I noticed that these dusty the first bite of a fried chicken thigh. patches are a common flaw in recipes that The crunch is big because thighs are call for cornstarch.) Ithin and tapered, so there’s a high ratio The key difference turned out to be how of crispy crust to chicken. And when you the two types of starch absorb water: Potato bite through that crust, you’re met with starch is more absorbent than cornstarch, juicy, rich dark meat. and in this case it had soaked up so much Happily for me, a Japanese style of fried liquid from the marinade that it turned chicken called karaage not only tradition- sticky. The cornstarch hadn’t absorbed ally uses chicken thighs but also happens enough of the marinade—hence the pow- to be very easy to prepare. To make it, you dery residue. debone bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs; Ultimately, I opted for cornstarch cut the meat into small chunks; marinate because it’s readily available and because it them in a soy-and-sake-based mixture would be easier to fix my dredging method that’s seasoned with garlic, ginger, and than it would be to fuss with clumps of sometimes salt or sugar; dredge them in sticky chicken in hot oil. (A good rule of potato starch; and fry them until they’re thumb from my restaurant days: Any time brown and crispy. Because the pieces are you can move the challenging parts of small, you need only a few cups of oil to cooking to the prep stage as opposed to the submerge them, and the frying time is cooking stage, you avoid a lot of headaches.) fast. Plus, thanks to the thighs’ abundant fat and collagen, there’s no risk that the Rest and Hydration meat will dry out during frying. You don’t The question was how to get the cornstarch even have to temp the pieces; once they’re to absorb more of the marinade. My first golden and crispy, they’re done. instinct was to mix some into a slurry with For all these reasons, karaage is my favor- the marinade and microwave it, since heat- ite style of fried chicken both to eat and to A squeeze of lemon juice balances the richness of karaage while allowing ing cornstarch makes it more absorbent. make. That said, I’ve always wanted to take the flavors of the marinade to shine. But as I’d found with the potato starch, a closer look at the potato starch: Though it it was hard to keep the gel-coated chicken fries up exceptionally crispy, it forms a sticky coating and each one with plenty of surface area to keep the strips separate in the hot oil. that can be difficult to manage as you cook; it can ratio of crispy crust to juicy meat really high. I dug a little deeper into my potato starch versus also be hard to find in conventional supermarkets. I marinated the chicken for 30 minutes before cornstarch research and realized I’d overlooked an moving to a head-to-head starch test: important point: Cornstarch not only absorbs less Battle of the Starches SUPEREASY potato (the traditional choice) versus Before I got started, I decided to stream- FRIED CHICKEN corn (a common alternative). I dredged line the already-efficient method by BY THE half the strips in potato starch and half How to Slice Thighs into Strips NUMBERS doing away with the knife work needed in cornstarch and then fried each batch to debone skin-on thighs. The skin is 1 QUART OIL in a Dutch oven filled with 4 cups of usually included because it contributes 2 BATCHES 325-degree vegetable oil. I let the strips richness and crunch, but the fried coating 5 MINUTES/BATCH fry until they were crispy, which took no would provide both of those in spades. more than 5 minutes. Instead, I opted for 11/2 pounds of boneless, skin- Both starch options came with challenges, start- less chicken thighs, which I trimmed and cut into ing with the aforementioned stickiness of the potato strips instead of smaller chunks. That created about starch coating. Once it hit the hot oil, the potato 20 pieces—half as many to marinate, dredge, and fry, starch quickly formed a gluey gel that made the pieces stick to everything—the tongs, the pot, each other— STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND and trying to separate them while they bubbled in the SLICE CROSSWISE Arrange each thigh, skinned NUTRITION INFORMATION hot oil was dicey. The cornstarch batch didn’t turn side up, with long side parallel to edge of counter. CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 gluey, so it was a cinch to fry, but the cooked pieces Slice crosswise into 1- to 11/2-inch-wide strips.

were coated in a fine dusting of unhydrated starch TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 22 JAPANESE FRIED CHICKEN THIGHS How to Set Up a Fry Station (KARAAGE) As with most other cooking tasks, frying is simple as long as you are organized. Setting up your station with prepped SERVES 4 TO 6 food and the right tools at the ready is the first step to success. TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR, PLUS 30 MINUTES RESTING

TONGS REMOTE PROBE THERMOMETER COOLING RACK PAPER We recommend using a rasp-style grater to grate Let you add the Displays the oil temperature on a digital Lets air circulate below the fried TOWELS food to the hot oil screen and lets you know when it’s hot food, preventing the bottom from Wick oil from the ginger. Do not substitute chicken breasts for in a precise way enough to start frying getting steamy/soggy fried food the thighs; they will dry out during frying. There’s no need to take the temperature of the chicken; it will be cooked through by the time it is golden brown and crispy. Leftover frying oil can be cooled, strained, and saved for later use. Our recipe for Japanese Fried Chicken Thighs (Karaage) for Two is available to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated. com/oct19.

3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons sake 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves, minced 3/4 teaspoon sugar 1/8 teaspoon table salt 1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut crosswise into 1- to 1½-inch-wide strips PREPPED FOOD DUTCH OVEN SPIDER SKIMMER/ BAKING SHEET 11/4 cups cornstarch Is ready and easy to Minimizes splatter with tall sides; pro- SLOTTED SPOON Provides space to grab when spread vides broad cooking surface that allows Helps you quickly remove drain fried food in 1 quart vegetable oil, for frying out evenly you to cook food in fewer batches batches of food from the oil a single layer Lemon wedges

1. Combine soy sauce, sake, ginger, garlic, water than potato starch does but also absorbs water chicken pieces for dry patches and used the back of sugar, and salt in medium bowl. Add chicken and more slowly, which made me wonder if simply let- a spoon to dab them with reserved marinade. That toss to combine. Let sit at room temperature for ting the coated chicken rest before cooking would moistened the starch just enough that it fried up 30 minutes. While chicken marinates, line rimmed allow more of the cornstarch to hydrate. into a crispy, cohesive crust. baking sheet with parchment paper. Set wire rack For the next batch, I went back to dredging the While the chicken drained on a paper towel–lined in second rimmed baking sheet and line rack with marinated chicken in dry cornstarch but made sure rack, I cut up some lemon wedges for serving. It’s triple layer of paper towels. Place cornstarch in to dredge before I heated the oil to allow time for the traditional karaage accompaniment, and for good wide bowl. the cornstarch to hydrate. I could see improvement reason: The acid cuts through the richness of the fried 2. Lift chicken from marinade, 1 piece at a time, as soon as I pulled the fried chicken from the oil: dark meat, and the tangy fruit deftly underscores allowing excess marinade to drip back into bowl but The coating was golden and crunchy with just a (without overpowering) the bright heat of the ginger leaving any garlic or ginger bits on chicken. Coat few spare dry patches. To fix that, I made sure to in the marinade. There may be no better application chicken with cornstarch, shake off excess, and place shake off any excess cornstarch after dredging the for a squeeze of citrus. If you love fried chicken but on parchment-lined sheet. Reserve marinade. chicken. Then, just before frying, I checked the don’t love frying, this may be the recipe for you. 3. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium‑high heat to 325 degrees. While oil heats, check chicken pieces for white patches of dry cornstarch. Dip back KEYS TO A CRUNCHY, COHESIVE CRUST of spoon in reserved marinade and gently press onto These tricks are subtle, but they make all the difference when it comes to creating a crust with big crunch. dry spots to lightly moisten. 4. Using tongs, add half of chicken, 1 piece at a time, to oil in single layer. Cook, adjusting burner, if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 300 and 325 degrees, until chicken is golden brown and crispy, 4 to 5 minutes. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer chicken to paper towel–lined rack. Return oil to 325 degrees and repeat with remaining chicken. Serve with lemon wedges. SHAKE Dredge the marinated LET REST While the oil heats, DAB Before frying, use the back chicken one piece at a time, mak- the dredged chicken can rest, of a spoon to moisten any dry RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL ing sure to shake off any excess which gives the cornstarch time patches of the coating with the Find these sides in our archive: Napa Cabbage Slaw cornstarch that would otherwise to absorb moisture and hydrate, reserved marinade. with Snow Peas and Mint (May/June 2017), Basic leave a dusty residue on the ensuring a cohesive crust. White Rice (January/February 2010), and Sesame cooked crust. Lemon Cucumber Salad (July/August 1997).

2019 annual 23 Easy Grill-Roasted Whole Chicken Our dead-simple method delivers juicy, subtly smoky meat with bronzed skin.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

ike so many of our readers, Plus, the breast meat was now a tad dry even I love a simple roast chicken that though I had pulled the chicken off the grill tastes of nothing but concen- as soon as it reached its target temperature trated chicken-y goodness. Our of 160 degrees. My fix was to grab the bird mostL popular chicken recipe, Weeknight by the cavity using tongs and drain the juices Roast Chicken (September/October into a bowl before moving it to the hotter 2011), accomplishes exactly that—and side of the grill. with a method that couldn’t be easier. As for the dry meat, I remembered that There’s no brining, no salting, no knife the hotter the cooking temperature, the work, and no dirtying of dishes required. higher the meat’s temperature will climb I wanted to create an equally simple after cooking. Finishing over direct heat method for the grill, and as with the caused the chicken’s temperature to rise Weeknight Roast Chicken recipe, pretreat- rapidly. To account for that carryover ments and extensive prep work were off effect, I pulled the bird off the grill when the table. So were rubs, marinades, and it registered 155 degrees. sauces. But I did want the bird to taste of Now the chicken was moist, with evenly the grill—not so much as to overpower the bronzed skin and a good measure of that clean chicken flavor, but enough that you unmistakable char. Time to add some could tell that it had been cooked over coals. smoke for another layer of grill flavor.

Be Direct Up in Smoke There are two main ways to achieve grill fla- The trick would be calibrating the smoke’s vor. You can cook the food over direct heat, effect to keep it from overwhelming which produces char—the dark browning the clean chicken taste. I tried various that develops where food comes in contact amounts of wood chips using our standard with the hot cooking grate—as well as all method—wrapping them in foil and the new flavor compounds that develop A small amount of wood chips and just 10 minutes over direct heat produce cutting a pair of slits in the packet to allow when meat juices and rendered fat drip onto a perfectly cooked chicken with light grill flavor. just enough airflow for the chips to smoke the heat source, break down, vaporize, and steadily—and I found that I needed just condense on the surface of the food. You can also flipping it breast side down after a few minutes so 1/4 to 1/2 cup of chips (depending on whether I was add a wood chip packet to the fire to produce smoke, that both the top and bottom received direct heat. using charcoal or gas, respectively) to generate which also rises up and condenses on the food. What I hadn’t accounted for was that the chicken’s the subtle smoke flavor I wanted. I also made sure For the moment, I put aside the notion of adding cavity became a receptacle for its fatty juices; when to use dry wood chips, since they start smoking smoke flavor and thought about how to use direct I turned the chicken over, that liquid sloshed onto the right away while the bird is still cold, and smoke heat. Trying to cook a whole chicken over direct heat fire and flames shot up, scorching the bird’s exterior. condenses much more readily on cold surfaces. on the grill would be as silly as trying to sear it in a skillet. The exterior would obviously overcook before the interior cooked through. And while some measure A Griller’s Toolbox of fatty juices dripping onto the coals creates desirable If you want to create the unmistakable flavors associated with the grill—earthy, savory char and nuanced grill flavor, too much triggers significant flare-ups that smokiness—without overcooking the food, you have to use the tools that produce them. leave a layer of black carbon on the bird’s exterior that overwhelms its mild flavor. That’s why most recipes DIRECT HEAT directly over the heat—cooks it gently so that the out- for grilling a whole bird call for indirect heat, which How it works: When the food is placed directly over side doesn’t burn before the inside finishes cooking. cooks the meat gently and evenly—but also produces the heat, the searing-hot cooking grate creates char Note that cooking only over indirect heat and without results without much grill flavor. marks that impart a range of smoky, earthy, and even smoke will yield little grill flavor. My solution incorporated both indirect and direct sweet flavors. In addition, meat juices and rendered fat heat. I built a fire with heat sources on either side can drip onto the coals, where they break down and SMOKE of the grill and a cooler zone down the middle and vaporize (and sometimes create small flare-ups), and How it works: Wood—either large chunks or chips cooked the chicken, breast side up, over the cooler then condense on the food, adding more grill flavor. wrapped in foil—that’s placed in the fire will not ignite zone until the breast hit 130 degrees; at that point, due to limited airflow. Instead, it will smoke, flavoring a good amount of the bird’s fat had been rendered, INDIRECT HEAT the food’s exterior. Cutting two slits in the foil allows so I figured flare-ups wouldn’t be an issue. Then How it works: Placing food over a cooler zone—not enough airflow for the wood chips to smoke steadily.

I finished cooking the chicken over the hotter zone, TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 24 STEP BY STEP HOW TO CARVE A WHOLE CHICKEN Carving a whole bird can feel like a daunting task. These steps break it down for you (pun intended).

1. Cut chicken where leg meets breast, 2. Pull leg quarter away from breast 3. Cut through joint that connects drum- 4. With cavity facing away from you, holding knife close to leg quarter to keep while pushing up on joint. Cut through stick to thigh. Repeat steps 1 through 3 locate breastbone. Starting at cavity end of plenty of skin covering breast. joint and skin to remove leg quarter. on second leg quarter. breast, cut just off center of breastbone.

5. Working from cavity end to neck 6. Insert your thumb into cut. Gently 7. Continue to cut until you reach wing 8. Placing knife as close to wing bone as end and using breastbone as guide, cut pull back breast to expose rib cage. joint. Gently pull breast away from rib possible, cut wing from breast by slicing straight down along breastbone until you Working from cavity end to neck end, cage while pushing up on wing joint from through skin and connective tissue. Slice reach rib cage. cut breast from rib cage. As you cut, underneath. Cut through wing joint to 1 side of breast crosswise. Repeat steps 4 angle knife to follow curve of rib cage. remove breast and wing. through 8 on second side of breast.

After about an hour on the grill, my ideal and rub in mixture with your hands to evenly coat. between hotter sides of grill. Cover (position lid vent grill‑roasted chicken was ready: succulent, subtly Tie legs together with kitchen twine and tuck wing- over chicken if using charcoal) and cook until breast smoky meat encased in well-rendered and deeply tips behind back. registers 130 degrees, 45 to 55 minutes. golden skin. Behold, your (and my) new go-to 2. Using large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, 5. Using long grill tongs, reach into cavity and method for roasting chicken—alfresco. wrap chips (1/4 cup if using charcoal; 1/2 cup if using carefully lift chicken by breast. Holding chicken over gas) in 8 by 41/2-inch foil packet. (Make sure chips bowl or container, tilt chicken toward you to allow EASY GRILL-ROASTED WHOLE CHICKEN do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut fat and juices to drain from cavity. Transfer chicken, SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 2 HOURS 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet. breast side up, to hotter side of grill (without wood 3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open chip packet) and cook, covered, until back is deep We developed this recipe on a three-burner gas grill bottom vent halfway. Light large chimney starter golden brown, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, flip with burners that run from front to back. In this mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When chicken breast side down; cover and continue to cook recipe, we refer to the two outside burners as the top coals are partially covered with ash, pour into over hotter side of grill until breast is deep golden primary burners and the center burner as the second- 2 banked piles on either side of grill. Place wood brown, about 5 minutes longer. Using tongs, flip ary burner. If you’re using a two-burner grill, use the chip packet on 1 pile of coals. Set cooking grate chicken breast side up and return it to center of grill; side with the wood chips as the primary burner and in place, cover, and open lid vent halfway. Heat take internal temperature of breast. If breast registers the other side as the secondary burner. Adjust the pri- grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 155 degrees, transfer chicken to carving board. If mary burner to maintain a grill temperature between 5 minutes. (Grill temperature will reach about breast registers less than 155 degrees, cover and con- 375 and 400 degrees. Place the chicken 6 inches from 400 degrees and will fall to about 350 degrees by tinue to cook in center of grill, checking temperature the primary burner and rotate it after 25 minutes of end of cooking.) every 2 minutes, until it registers 155 degrees, 2 to cooking in step 4 so that it cooks evenly. 3B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Remove cooking grate 10 minutes longer. Let chicken rest, uncovered, for and place wood chip packet directly on 1 primary 20 minutes. Carve chicken and serve. 1 tablespoon kosher salt burner. Set grate in place, turn all burners to high, ½ teaspoon pepper cover, and heat grill until hot and wood chips are RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL 1 (3½- to 41-pound) whole chicken, smoking, about 15 minutes. Turn primary burners Find these sides in our archive: Greek Cherry Tomato Salad (July/August 2008) and Grilled Corn with giblets discarded (two outside burners) to medium-high and turn off Flavored Butter (September/October 2013). 1 tablespoon vegetable oil secondary (center) burner. (Adjust primary burners 1/4 –½ cup wood chips as needed to maintain grill temperature between 400 and 425 degrees.) STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND 1. Combine salt and pepper in bowl. Pat chicken 4. Clean and oil cooking grate. Place chicken, NUTRITION INFORMATION dry with paper towels, then rub entire surface of breast side up with cavity facing toward you, in CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 chicken with oil. Sprinkle salt mixture all over chicken center of grill, making sure chicken is centered

2019 annual 25 Indian Butter Chicken Of course it should be rich and creamy. But to make a vibrant, complex version of this restaurant classic, there’s more to consider than the namesake ingredient.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

urgh makhani, also To be sure it was worth the extra step, known by its English I cooked two batches of thighs, one plain name, “butter chicken,” and one coated in yogurt (the Greek kind, is a wildly popular dish since it’s a more concentrated source Mthat has reached royal status in north‑ of milk proteins than regular yogurt), ern Indian cuisine. But according to and the difference was clear: After about most sources, the dish was originally 15 minutes under the broiler (its intense intended to solve the rather pedestrian heat would be the best approximation of problem of preventing leftover meat the tandoor), the plain chicken was only from tandoor‑roasted chickens from spottily browned, while the yogurt-coated drying out. The solution turned out to batch boasted fuller, more flavorful brown‑ be magnificent: The charred meat was ing. (For more information, see “Yogurt bathed in a lush tomato-based gravy Isn’t for Marinating—It’s for Browning.”) that was enriched with butter (and often Dunking in yogurt was the way to go, and cream) and scented with ginger, garlic, to make the most of it, I stirred in a little and spices such as garam masala, cori‑ salt to help season the chicken. ander, and cumin. Butter chicken has since helped spawn a major restaurant Butter Up franchise and become one of the most As for the sauce, it should be similar to the well‑known Indian dishes in the world. sauce for chicken tikka masala (a close rela‑ It’s also a popular dish to make at home, tive of butter chicken) but richer and more as the sauce is a snap to prepare: Soften concentrated—think of it as a tomatoey some onion, garlic, and fresh ginger in cream sauce rather than a creamy tomato melted butter; add the spices to bloom their sauce. The trick to making it well is adding flavors; stir in chopped tomatoes (either enough richness so that it’s lush but not so fresh or canned); enrich the mixture with much that it tastes cloying and the tomato’s cream and possibly some more butter; and You’ll want to soak up every bit of this lush, vibrant sauce, so be sure to vibrancy is obscured. Achieving that bal‑ finish it with chopped cilantro for brightness serve the chicken with rice, , or both. ance took some work. and a pop of color. The first consideration was how to incor‑ The chicken poses a challenge because the most chicken, the claim being that the acidic dairy tender‑ porate the butter into the sauce. Melting a couple of important element—the charred exterior that pro‑ izes and flavors the meat. But we’ve found that acids tablespoons to soften the aromatics and bloom the vides an essential point of contrast to the rich sauce— such as those in yogurt aren’t good tenderizers; they spices was a fine way to start, but by the time I stirred is difficult to achieve without the intense heat of a simply make the meat’s surface mushy. in a can of juicy tomatoes, the sauce was neither rich tandoor oven, the traditional beehive‑shaped vessel Instead, we prefer to coat chicken in yogurt just nor creamy. Two additional tablespoons made the that can heat up to 900 degrees. before cooking it. The yogurt imparts tangy flavor sauce richer, but only when half the butter was left Some recipes skip the charring altogether and call to the exterior of the meat and, more important, its solid and whisked in at the end of cooking did the for simply braising chicken pieces in the sauce, but the proteins and lactose brown faster than the chicken sauce turn silky. Why? For the same reason we often meat lacks the charred flavor that makes this dish not itself, making it easier to imitate the desirable char finish pan sauces by thoroughly whisking in cold but‑ just rich but also complex. Other recipes approximate flavor of tandoor-roasted birds. ter: Doing so allows it to emulsify as it melts, breaking the tandoor’s effect by marinating the chicken (usually boneless, skinless breasts or thighs for easier eating) in yogurt and then roasting or broiling it. This seemed About That “Butter Sauce” like a more promising method. Butter is more prominent in the name of this dish than in the sauce itself. While most recipes call for at least a few tablespoons of butter, the Take a Dip sauce owes its lush consistency to a generous amount of heavy cream. Lean white meat would require careful monitoring in Emulsions such as cream are naturally thick and luxurious because their a hot oven to prevent it from drying out, so I started water and fat droplets move slowly around one another, which impedes with thighs, which contain more fat and collagen and the mixture’s flow so that it becomes viscous. Cream also effectively would thus be more forgiving. stabilizes the sauce; its high proportion of casein proteins surrounds the Marinating the chicken in yogurt for several butterfat droplets so they don’t separate from the water. CREAM MAKES IT CREAMY

hours is a traditional first step when making tandoori TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 26 Yogurt Isn’t for Marinating—It’s for Browning Coating the chicken in Greek yogurt is a crucial step in our recipe for butter chicken, but not for the reason you might think. We don’t use it as a marinade (as called for in traditional Indian recipes) because it doesn’t flavor meat beyond its surface. In addition, it turns the surface mushy because its acidity breaks down proteins on the Whole Spices Make It Nice meat’s exterior if the meat is left to marinate for too long. cumin seeds, crushed cardamom pods, We do, however, coat the chicken in yogurt just before cooking. Both the chicken and the yogurt are packed cloves, and a cinnamon stick in the rice as it with protein, but yogurt is also a rich source of , which participate in Maillard browning reactions: When cooks (and removing the spices before serving) yogurt is exposed to the broiler’s high heat, its water quickly evaporates, leaving a high‑protein, high-sugar mix‑ perfumes the grains with a warm, savory fra‑ ture that encourages the meat to brown more quickly and deeply than it would on its own, which helps us mimic grance without muddying their color. the charring effects of a superhot tandoor oven.

INDIAN-STYLE BASMATI RICE SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES

For basmati rice with a bright yellow color, add 1/4 teaspoon of ground turmeric and a pinch of saffron threads with the water in step 3. WITH YOGURT WITHOUT YOGURT 11/2 cups basmati rice 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ½ cup—and water, taking advantage of the paste’s 1 tablespoon sugar 3 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed superconcentrated, punchy flavor and vibrant color, 2 teaspoons table salt, divided 3 whole cloves which gave the sauce an attractive rust‑red tint. I also 1 cup heavy cream 21/4 cups water added a little heat (a minced serrano chile and some 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed 1 cinnamon stick black pepper) and sweetness (sugar) and buzzed the 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt 1 bay leaf mixture with an immersion blender until the sauce 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided 1 teaspoon table salt was thick and silky-smooth (a regular blender would also work). 1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large saucepan 1. Place rice in fine-mesh strainer and rinse At that point, all I had to do was cut the chicken over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger, and under cold running water until water runs clear. into chunks; stir it into the creamy, bright‑tasting serrano and cook, stirring frequently, until mixture Place strainer over bowl and set aside. sauce; and sprinkle on some chopped cilantro. All is softened and onion begins to brown, 8 to 10 min‑ 2. Melt butter in medium saucepan over told, the dish came together in about 30 minutes— utes. Add garam masala, coriander, cumin, and medium heat. Add cumin, cardamom, and cloves faster than a takeout order from my favorite Indian pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about restaurant—and could be made in half the time about 3 minutes. Add water and tomato paste and 1 minute. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly, if I prepared the sauce in advance. Some nights, whisk until no lumps of tomato paste remain. Add until fragrant, about 1 minute. that might just leave me enough time to whip up sugar and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to boil. Off heat, 3. Add water, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, and our Indian (Naan) (May/June 2012) stir in cream. Using immersion blender or blender, salt and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, for dipping. process until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Return and simmer until all water is absorbed, about sauce to simmer over medium heat and whisk in 17 minutes. Let stand, covered, off heat for at INDIAN BUTTER CHICKEN remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Remove saucepan least 10 minutes. Discard cardamom, cloves, (MURGH MAKHANI) from heat and cover to keep warm. (Sauce can be cinnamon stick, and bay leaf. Fluff rice with fork SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS refrigerated for up to 4 days; gently reheat sauce and serve. before adding hot chicken.) Traditionally, butter chicken is mildly spiced. If you 2. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element prefer a spicier dish, reserve, mince, and add the ribs and heat broiler. Combine chicken, yogurt, and into tiny fat droplets suspended in the liquid by casein and seeds from the chile. Serve with basmati rice and/ remaining 1 teaspoon salt in bowl and toss well to proteins. Melting the butter before whisking it in lets or warm naan. Our recipe for Indian Butter Chicken coat. Using tongs, transfer chicken to wire rack set in the fat and protein separate, so it breaks into large (Murgh Makhani) for Two is available to web sub‑ aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil until droplets that don’t incorporate evenly. scribers at CooksIllustrated.com/jun19. chicken is evenly charred on both sides and registers But while the extra solid butter made it more 175 degrees, 16 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken luxurious, the sauce lacked its trademark creaminess. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces halfway through broiling. And yet, when I approached the richness that’s char‑ and chilled, divided 3. Let chicken rest for 5 minutes. While chicken acteristic of the dish, the sauce broke. That’s because 1 onion, chopped fine rests, warm sauce over medium-low heat. Cut the emulsion can hold only so much fat. This made 5 garlic cloves, minced chicken into 3/4-inch chunks and stir into sauce. Stir me realize why many recipes call for cream, too (see 4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger in 2 tablespoons cilantro and season with salt to “About That ‘Butter Sauce’”). After a few tests, I’d 1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced taste. Transfer to serving dish, sprinkle with remain‑ worked in 1 cup of cream (a common amount for 1 tablespoon garam masala ing 1 tablespoon cilantro, and serve. this recipe), though with every extra tablespoon the 1 teaspoon ground coriander tomatoes’ brightness dulled. Adding more chopped 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND tomatoes wasn’t the answer, since their juice would 1/2 teaspoon pepper NUTRITION INFORMATION only thin the sauce’s creamy body. Instead, I switched 11/2 cups water CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 to a combination of tomato paste—a whopping 1/2 cup tomato paste

2019 annual 27 One-Pan Chicken and Vegetables The savory elixir left behind after roasting chicken is pure gold. We put it to good use.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

hen you roast bone-in, skin-on 2. Place chicken, skin side down, in 12-inch oven‑ chicken breasts in a skillet, fat ren‑ safe skillet and set over medium-high heat. Cook, ders from the skin, juices seep from moving chicken as infrequently as possible, until skin the flesh, and bits of meat stick to is well browned, 7 to 9 minutes. Wthe pan. These tidbits crackle and brown, creating 3. Carefully flip chicken and transfer skillet to a concentrated, chicken-y . Tradition dic‑ oven. Roast until chicken registers 160 degrees, tates that you use these drippings to whip up a pan 25 to 30 minutes. sauce. But that’s wasting an opportunity to make a 4. Transfer chicken to plate; do not discard liquid one-pan meal. Why not cook a vegetable in them in skillet. Add garlic, pepper flakes, and remaining to create a rich, savory side? Add crusty bread and 3/4 teaspoon salt to skillet and cook over medium‑high a bottle of wine and you’re done—with just one heat, stirring occasionally and scraping up any pan to wash. browned bits, until moisture has evaporated and I started by peeling back the chicken skin so I could mixture begins to sizzle, 2 to 4 minutes. Add green season the flesh with salt; I then repositioned the skin. beans and water and bring to simmer. Cover skillet, To ensure that the skin would end up fully rendered, reduce heat to medium, and cook until green beans I wanted to kick-start that process by searing the are tender, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through chicken on the stove before transferring it to the cooking. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring oven. I turned to a technique we’ve used successfully frequently, until sauce begins to coat green beans, in the past: I placed the chicken skin-side down in 2 to 4 minutes longer. Add any accumulated chicken a cold skillet and then turned on the burner. This juices to skillet and toss to combine. Season with salt cold-start method allows fat to gently render with to taste. Transfer green beans to serving platter and little risk of overcooking the meat just below the sur‑ sprinkle with Parmesan. Top with chicken and serve. face. By the time the pan gets blazing hot, the skin is Toasted garlic slices, spicy red pepper flakes, and nutty, well‑rendered, thin, flat, and ready to crisp and brown. salty Parmesan shreds enhance the rich green beans. SKILLET-ROASTED CHICKEN BREASTS I also spritzed the skin with vegetable oil spray to WITH HARISSA-MINT CARROTS keep it from sticking and pierced it with a to SKILLET-ROASTED CHICKEN BREASTS encourage the fat to escape. Once the skin was well WITH GARLICKY GREEN BEANS Substitute 1 thinly sliced shallot for garlic and 2 tea‑ browned, I flipped the breasts and transferred the SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS spoons harissa for pepper flakes. Substitute 11/pounds skillet to a 325-degree oven. After 30 minutes, the carrots, peeled and sliced on bias 1/4 inch thick, for breasts were perfectly cooked, the skin was crisp, and Trim excess fatty skin from the thick ends of the green beans. Increase salt for vegetables to 1 teaspoon, the drippings were plentiful. breasts. Our recipe for Skillet-Roasted Chicken water to 1 cup, and covered cooking time to 10 to I had a couple of requirements for the vegetable. Breasts with Garlic-Ginger Broccoli is available to 12 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 11/tea‑ First, it had to come together in the 10 minutes that web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/feb19. spoons chopped fresh mint with accumulated chicken the chicken needed to rest. Second, it had to showcase juices. Substitute additional 11/teaspoons chopped the deeply savory juices, fond, and fat. I decided on 4 (10- to 12-ounce) bone-in split chicken fresh mint for Parmesan. easy-prep, quick-cooking green beans—they have breasts, trimmed plenty of surface area for the drippings to cling to. 21/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided But the drippings alone wouldn’t be enough to Vegetable oil spray Flavoring the Vegetables flavor the beans; I also needed aromatics and season‑ 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin After our chicken breasts are finished roasting, ings. Sliced garlic and red pepper flakes were a natural 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes the skillet is full of goodness: fond (browned fit. I added both to the pan, cranked up the heat, and 11/4 pounds green beans, trimmed proteins), rendered fat, and savory juices. scraped up the fond. When the garlic and pepper 1/3 cup water Instead of taking the usual approach— flakes started to sizzle, that was my cue that all the 11/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, shredded (1/2 cup) pouring off some of the fat and moisture had evaporated and the ingredients were making a pan sauce with what blooming and releasing flavor into the chicken fat. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and remains—we use it all as the I added the beans along with 1/3 cup of water and heat oven to 325 degrees. Working with 1 breast at a base for a rich, complemen‑ covered the pan so they could steam. After 8 minutes time, use your fingers to carefully separate skin from tary vegetable side dish. or so, I removed the lid and continued simmering just meat. Peel back skin, leaving skin attached at top and long enough to reduce the liquid to coat the beans, bottom of breast and at ribs. Sprinkle 1½ teaspoons which were now infused with the essence of chicken. salt evenly over chicken (3/8 teaspoon per breast). Lay STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND I transferred the beans to a platter and showered skin back in place. Using metal skewer or tip of paring NUTRITION INFORMATION them with Parmesan cheese before placing the juicy, knife, poke 6 to 8 holes in fat deposits in skin of each CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19

crispy-skinned chicken on top. Dinner was served. breast. Spray skin with oil spray. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 28 Easy, Elegant Shrimp Risotto A quick shrimp stock and a modicum of stirring produce first-rate risotto.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

risotto featuring creamy Arborio rice; 1 onion, chopped fine plump, juicy shrimp; and light, bright 1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved, seasonings is one of those slam-dunk cored, and chopped fine dishes that every cook needs in their ⅛ teaspoon baking soda Arepertoire. Its subtle flavors are universally appeal‑ 2 garlic cloves, minced ing, and it’s luxurious enough for company. 11/2 cups Arborio rice A few years ago, we came up with a revolutionary 3/4 cup dry white wine risotto-making technique: Our Almost Hands-Free 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (1/2 cup), plus Risotto calls for gently Arborio in stock in a extra for serving covered Dutch oven so that the agitation of the grains 1/4 cup minced fresh chives (rather than the cook’s spoon) sloughs the starch from 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon the rice. Just before the rice is done, a final portion of juice, plus lemon wedges for serving stock is added and the risotto is stirred for just 2 to 3 minutes to maximize creaminess before the dish is 1. Cut each shrimp crosswise into thirds. Toss finished with butter and cheese. with ½ teaspoon salt and set aside. Heat oil in Dutch I started with the backbone of the dish: shrimp oven over high heat until shimmering. Add reserved stock. Crustacean shells contain proteins, sugars, shrimp shells and cook, stirring frequently, until shells and flavor-boosting glutamates and nucleotides that begin to turn spotty brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Add I wanted to extract into the stock. I seared the shells in water, peppercorns, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon salt oil; added water, bay leaves, salt, and peppercorns; and and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for simmered—but only for 5 minutes. That’s because 5 minutes. Strain stock through fine-mesh strainer set we’ve found that some of the flavor compounds in the over large bowl, pressing on solids with rubber spatula shells are volatile and release into the air with longer to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. cooking times. The result was an ultrafast stock that 2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in now-empty would infuse my risotto with a taste of the sea. For juicy, tender results, we salt the shrimp before pot over medium heat. Add onion, fennel, bak‑ Next, I sautéed finely chopped onion and fennel. cooking and add them off the heat. ing soda, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, The fennel’s mild anise notes were lovely, but it took stirring frequently, until vegetables are softened a long time to lose its crunch. A smidge of baking before I prepared the risotto—the salt would be but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes (volume will be soda raised the fennel’s pH, helping it (and the onion) absorbed by the shrimp, helping keep them moist. dramatically reduced and onion will have mostly break down faster. I then added the Arborio, cooked Once the risotto was finished, I slid the pot off disintegrated). Add garlic and stir until fragrant, it until it turned translucent, and deglazed the pot the burner and added the shrimp pieces, letting them about 30 seconds. Add rice and cook, stirring fre‑ with dry white wine before adding the stock. cook to juicy, plump perfection in the residual heat. quently, until grains are translucent around edges, Finally, I stirred in whole shrimp, but they were so Parmesan, butter, chives, and lemon zest and juice about 3 minutes. big that I got a bite of shrimp in only every few fork‑ enhanced the beautifully flavored, creamy rice. 3. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until fuls. Cutting the shrimp into pieces made for better fully absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir 4 cups stock into distribution, but then they rapidly overcooked. To SHRIMP RISOTTO rice mixture; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and solve the problem, I sprinkled the shrimp with salt SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS simmer until almost all liquid has been absorbed and rice is just al dente, 16 to 18 minutes, stirring twice Accompanied by a salad, this risotto makes a great during simmering. Seafood and Cheese? You Bet. dinner, but it can also be served in eight smaller 4. Add 3/4 cup stock to risotto and stir gently Italian tradition maintains that seafood and portions as a first course. Our recipe for Shrimp and constantly until risotto becomes creamy, about cheese should never appear on the same Risotto for Two is available to web subscribers at 3 minutes. Stir in Parmesan and shrimp. Cover pot plate, lest the milky, salty dairy overwhelm the CooksIllustrated.com/apr19. and let stand off heat for 5 minutes. delicate seafood flavor. Yet the pairing is quite 5. Gently stir chives, lemon zest and juice, and common—and delicious. Think lox and cream 1 pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per remaining 2 tablespoons butter into risotto. Season cheese, pizza with anchovies, melts, and pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, with salt and pepper to taste. If desired, stir in additional lobster mac and cheese. Likewise, our risotto shells reserved stock to loosen texture of risotto. Serve, passing lemon just wasn’t as complex without a small amount 13/4 teaspoons table salt, divided wedges and extra Parmesan separately. of Parmesan. Even this Sicilian fish recipe from 1 tablespoon vegetable oil around 400 BC advocated for the pairing: “Gut. 7 cups water STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Discard the head, rinse, slice; add cheese and 15 black peppercorns NUTRITION INFORMATION oil.” That’s good enough for us. 2 bay leaves CooksIllustrated.com/APR19

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2019 annual 29 The Original Ragu You already know ragu rosso, the king of ragu sauces. But perhaps you haven’t met the queen: ragu bianco, which, in our version, trades the tomato for lemon and cream.

j BY LAN LAM k

ention the word “ragu,” lower temperatures, turns to gelatin, and and a rich, meaty, enhances tenderness, but the muscle pro‑ tomato-laced sauce typi‑ tein doesn’t overcook. cally comes to mind. But Sure enough, about 2 hours later, saucesM containing tomato are a relatively the meat was supple and fork-tender. recent addition to the Italian culinary I removed the roast from the pot, let it cool repertoire, not appearing until the early a bit, and tried to shred it with two forks. 1800s. Long before then, ragu bianco That turned out to be quite a chore with (a simple, not-too-saucy mixture of any such a large piece of meat, but I ignored number of chopped or shredded meats, that problem for the moment and tossed aromatics, and often white wine—but the sauce with pappardelle—wide egg never tomato) was on the menu. noodles that would pair well with the Ragu bianco started out as fare for nobil‑ chunky ragu—along with a bit of the pasta ity. Beef, pork, or game was stewed, and the cooking water and a few handfuls of grated deeply savory cooking liquid was used to Pecorino Romano. dress pasta as one course. Meanwhile, the The large bites of pork were perfect, but meat was carved and arranged on a platter the rest of the dish was far from it, with a for a subsequent course. Eventually, this dry texture and little to no lemon flavor. In style of eating was copied by the gentry, the frank words of a colleague, I’d served up who used smaller, less expensive cuts. By “the pork version of a bad tuna casserole.” the late 17th century, the practice had trick‑ led down to commoners, who ultimately Fond-ational Flavor combined the meat and pasta into one dish. I gave it another go, this time halving the Ragu bianco is still prevalent in , and pork butt crosswise before braising, expect‑ the sky’s the limit in terms of how it can be ing that the shorter fibers would be easier flavored. I was eager to develop my own to shred. version after enjoying a stunning example Ragu bianco lacks tomatoes, which is what makes it white rather than red. Fixing the wan flavor required a mul‑ at Maialino, a restaurant in City, tipronged approach. I wanted to develop featuring large shreds of meltingly tender braised were released. Instead of loosening the fond with more meatiness since the pork wasn’t browning pork punctuated by tart lemon, licorice-y fennel, and the usual white wine, I deglazed with lemon juice much in the oven. I considered searing it on the salty Pecorino Romano cheese. When tossed with and water. stovetop before braising, but a simpler solution came pasta, the sauce formed an incredibly fresh-tasting Next, I nestled a 11/pound boneless pork butt to mind: Adding a little cured pork to my soffritto and satisfying dish. roast—a deeply marbled, relatively inexpensive would quickly provide tons of flavor without my cut from the upper part of the pig’s shoulder that having to sear the pork butt. A New Spin on Soffritto we often use in pork braises—into the soffritto. I diced a couple of ounces of pancetta and sim‑ Almost all ragus, whether red or white, start with a I transferred the pot to a 300-degree oven, where mered it in 2/3 cup of water to draw out its fat and soffritto—a sautéed mixture that typically includes the pork would spend more than an hour in the juices. When the water evaporated, the meat started finely chopped onion, carrot, and celery and some‑ 140- to 190-degree zone. In that temperature range, to sizzle in a layer of meaty pork fat that had collected times meat. I kept the onion but ditched the carrot collagen breaks down more rapidly than it does at on the bottom of the pot. I sautéed the vegetables and celery since I planned on using a large fennel bulb. The fennel would offer an herbaceous sweet‑ Browned ness instead of the earthy, mineral-y flavors of carrot Double the Fond, Double the Flavor pancetta and celery. In our ragu bianco, two rounds of fond development creates first I softened my soffritto in a Dutch oven with a ensure plenty of rich flavor. First, we simmer pancetta layer little olive oil and then added fresh thyme and gar‑ to extract its juices and fat and let that liquid turn into a lic, stirring until the heady scents of the aromatics deeply savory fond. Then, as the pork shoulder simmers in the oven, juices and fat spatter onto the sides of the pot, creating a second layer of fond. To loosen the fond Splattering STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND pork juices on the sides, we simply cover the pot for a few minutes NUTRITION INFORMATION create second CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 so that steam can soften it. layer PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE STEVE PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 30 PORK, FENNEL, AND LEMON RAGU and aromatics in the fat and deglazed with just water, WITH PAPPARDELLE TECHNIQUE holding back the lemon juice until later so its delicate SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 23/4 HOURS HOW TO FINELY CHOP A notes wouldn’t be obliterated by the long braise. FENNEL BULB To get color on the pork without adding any Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the extra work, I turned up the oven to 350 degrees. supermarket. To ensure that the sauce isn’t greasy, We use the same technique to cut a fennel bulb Since most of the meat sat above the cooking be sure to trim the roast of all excess surface fat. as we do to cut an onion. Start by removing any liquid, I hoped that it would brown at this higher You can substitute tagliatelle for the pappardelle, stalks and fronds from the top of the bulb and temperature. Indeed, the pork was tawny, tender, if desired. trimming a thin slice from the base. Then halve and juicy after just 1½ hours. What’s more, increas‑ the bulb lengthwise and remove the core from ing the temperature had caused the braising liquid 4 ounces pancetta, chopped the base of both halves. to bubble and splatter onto the sides of the Dutch 1 large onion, chopped fine oven, forming a second layer of fond (see “Double 1 large fennel bulb, 2 tablespoons fronds 3 the Fond, Double the Flavor”). I pulled the pork chopped, stalks discarded, bulb halved, out of the pot to rest, put the lid on for a few cored, and chopped fine, divided minutes to let the steam loosen the fond, and then 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 scraped the savory bits from the sides of the pot into 11/2 teaspoons table salt, plus salt for the braising liquid. cooking pasta To finish the sauce, I stirred in not only the tart 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme juice of two lemons but also some of their floral 1 teaspoon pepper zest. I then shredded the pork—it was indeed easier 1/3 cup heavy cream 3 with two smaller roasts—and returned it to the 1 (11/2-pound) boneless pork butt roast, pot. When I tossed the ragu with the pappardelle, well trimmed and cut in half across grain 1 I incorporated a little extra pasta cooking water. The 11/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus intensified meatiness and citrusy complexity were just 1/4 cup juice (2 lemons) 2 right, as were the tender shreds of meat. But the ragu 12 ounces pappardelle now lacked body. 2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, 1 grated (1 cup), plus extra for serving A Luxe Finish What was missing? How about butter? Whisking in 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat a few tablespoons gives a pan sauce body, but with oven to 350 degrees. Cook pancetta and 2/3 cup 1. Using sharp chef ’s knife, make several evenly chunks of pork in the pot, the butter was difficult water in Dutch oven over medium-high heat, stirring spaced horizontal cuts into fennel bulb, taking to whisk in and the sauce didn’t emulsify properly. occasionally, until water has evaporated and dark care not to cut through root end. A colleague suggested trying cream instead. I put fond forms on bottom of pot, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 2. Holding knife perpendicular to counter, make together another batch, adding just 1/3 cup of heavy onion and fennel bulb and cook, stirring occasion‑ several vertical cuts, cutting up to but not through cream to the pot along with 3/4 cup of pasta cooking ally, until vegetables soften and start to brown, 5 to root end. water. What a difference! The pappardelle was now 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, salt, thyme, and pepper and 3. Evenly slice fennel across previous cuts. coated with a cohesive, velvety sauce. cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. In fact, the cream was so stable that I found 2. Stir in cream and 2 cups water, scraping up any I could add it to the ragu at the beginning of cook‑ browned bits. Add pork and bring to boil over high soften. Using spatula, scrape browned bits from ing and get the same results—a boon since it had heat. Cover, transfer to oven, and cook until pork is sides of pot and stir into sauce. Stir in lemon zest been cooling down the ragu a bit when added just tender, about 1½ hours. and juice. before serving. 3. Transfer pork to large plate and let cool for 4. While pork cools, bring 4 quarts water to boil I stirred in plenty of Pecorino before garnishing 15 minutes. Cover pot so fond will steam and in large pot. Using 2 forks, shred pork into bite-size the dish with the chopped fennel fronds. Here was a pieces, discarding any large pieces of fat or connec‑ lively, luxurious ragu bianco—fit for royalty. tive tissue. Return pork and any juices to Dutch oven. Cover and keep warm. 5. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boil‑ UNDERSTANDING AL DENTE ing water and cook, stirring occasionally, until al Pasta recipes almost always call for cooking noodles al dente. Reserve 2 cups cooking water, then drain dente, meaning they are tender but still firm. But what pasta and add it to Dutch oven. Add Pecorino and exactly happens to dried pasta as it cooks? It helps to 3/4 cup reserved cooking water and stir until sauce know that dried pasta is a complex network of starch is slightly thickened and cheese is fully melted, 2 to granules held together by protein. When pasta is 3 minutes. If desired, stir in remaining reserved boiled, the starch granules on the surface of the pasta cooking water, 1/4 cup at a time, to adjust sauce absorb water and swell, and some eventually burst, consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste releasing starch into the cooking water. The granules and sprinkle with fennel fronds. Serve immediately, just beneath the pasta’s surface don’t become as passing extra Pecorino separately. hydrated and merely swell without bursting. Finally, the starch at the very center of the pasta becomes only RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL Find these recipes in our archive: Pan-Steamed partially hydrated, so the center retains a slightly firm PASTA WITH MINIMAL CORE Broccolini with Shallot (March/April 2018) and bite and a faint white core. Cooked just right Best Almond Cake (January/February 2014). ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION:

2019 annual 31 Chilled Soba Noodle Salad Try these earthy Japanese buckwheat noodles with a lush miso dressing and colorful, crisp raw vegetables.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

earty, flavorful soba noodles Once they were tender but still retained are a staple of Japanese cook‑ their chew, I drained the noodles in a colan‑ ing. Made from buckwheat, der and promptly ran them under cold water the seed of a flowering plant until they felt slick. Rinsing is essential to closelyH related to rhubarb and sorrel, stop further cooking and cool the noodles; these noodles boast an earthy taste and a it also removes sticky surface starch, helping slightly chewy texture. the noodles remain distinct and separate. Soba noodles can be slurped up along with hot broth, but they also are often Using My Noodle enjoyed in a spare bamboo-tray presenta‑ With my soba ready to go, I whisked tion featuring twists of chilled noodles; a together a quick dressing inspired by the dipping sauce made with soy sauce, mirin, zaru soba dipping sauce. To soy sauce and and rice vinegar; a dab of wasabi on the side; salty-sweet mirin (see “Mirin”), I added and shredded toasted nori (dried seaweed). nutty toasted sesame oil, sesame seeds, The simple dish, called zaru soba, is a beau‑ grated fresh ginger for zing, and red pepper tiful way to showcase the noodles’ earthy, flakes for a bit of heat. nutty‑sweet flavor and resilient chew. When I tossed this mixture with the There are also nontraditional recipes chilled soba, the soy dominated, and the that take the concept and turn it into a thin dressing slid right off the noodles. more casual one-bowl noodle salad fleshed So for my next batch, I reached for white out with crisp vegetables and a flavorful miso thinned with a little water in place dressing in place of the dipping sauce. The of the soy sauce. The thick, mildly sweet, dish would be just right to tote to work umami-rich miso made for a velvety dress‑ for lunch or pair with salmon or tofu (and ing that clung lightly to the soba and perhaps a glass of sake) as a light, refresh‑ didn’t obscure its subtleties. Next, I sliced ing dinner. up a medley of raw vegetables: clean, cool Along with lots of fresh vegetables, we mix slivers of briny toasted nori cucumber; peppery red radishes; scallions; Sleuthing Soba into the soba noodles; pretoasted seaweed snacks can also be used. and snow peas. There are a couple of types of soba noodles To help keep the vegetables from collect‑ that are easy to find in the United States. Pure buck‑ that they were submerged and to prevent sticking. ing at the bottom of the bowl, I cut them into shapes wheat soba has a deep chestnut color, a pronounced Because soba varies so much from brand to brand, and sizes that would get entwined in the noodles (but pleasant) bitterness, and a coarse texture. recommended boiling times range from 3 to 10 min‑ (see “Vegetable Prep School”). I noticed that the Because buckwheat lacks gluten, these noodles can utes. Ultimately, I found that it was best to follow cucumbers shed a bit of water when I tossed them be quite fragile when dry and are less springy when the timing on the individual packages. Because soba with the dressed noodles, so I decreased the water in boiled. The other commonly available type replaces noodles are more delicate than the typical wheat the dressing by 1 tablespoon. some of the buckwheat flour with wheat flour. In pasta, it was important to check them early and often Finally, in a nod to how cold soba noodles taste tests, we preferred this type for its milder taste during cooking. are traditionally enjoyed, I added some strips of and, because of the gluten contributed by the wheat, its more resilient texture. To cook the soba, I brought a large pot of unsalted The Story of Soba water to a boil. Salt is typically not added to the cook‑ Accounts of how soba originated vary, but some sources say that ing water for soba because manufacturers sometimes buckwheat came to Japan as early as 10,000 BC in the form of a add salt to the noodles and because the soba is usually porridge that sustained Buddhist monks during journeys from China. paired with a highly seasoned dressing or sauce. In the late 16th century, the Japanese began to make soft Once the water was boiling, I added 8 ounces of buckwheat-flour dumplings called sobagaki. Then, during PLANT-BASED soba noodles and gave them a quick stir to ensure the Edo period (1603­–1868), the dumplings evolved: In Soba starts with the a process that required much more skill, a mixture of seeds of the flower- ing buckwheat plant, buckwheat flour and water was kneaded, stretched thin, STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND which are ground into NUTRITION INFORMATION and cut into the slender strands that we know today as a flour that’s used to CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 soba noodles. make the noodles. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY(TOP), ALFIO SCISETTI/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (BOTTOM) PHOTO SCISETTI/ALAMYALFIO STOCK TREMBLAY(TOP), CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 32 toasted nori to my salad. The crisp texture and Secrets to Stellar Soba Noodle Salad understated briny taste of the dried seaweed was Follow these guidelines to ensure properly seasoned, tender the perfect finishing touch to the earthy, perfectly noodles that don’t clump together. cooked noodles; sweet‑savory dressing; and cool, crunchy vegetables. 1. Buy soba that lists wheat flour along with buckwheat flour on the ingredient list. This type has a milder flavor than CHILLED SOBA NOODLES WITH the pure buckwheat style, and because of the gluten contrib‑ CUCUMBER, SNOW PEAS, AND RADISHES uted by the wheat, it boasts a more resilient texture and a SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES nutty-sweet taste. 2. Don’t salt the water since the soba is served with a highly Sheets of nori, which is a dried seaweed that adds a seasoned dressing and the noodles themselves may have subtle briny umami flavor and crisp texture to this been salted during manufacturing. salad, can be found in packets at Asian markets or 3. Follow package directions for timing since brands vary in the Asian section of the supermarket. Plain pre‑ widely. Check the noodles for doneness early and often. toasted seaweed snacks can be substituted for the 4. Rinse the noodles with lots of cold water after draining RINSE CYCLE toasted nori, and yellow, red, or brown miso can them to stop cooking and remove excess surface starch that Cold water stops cooking and be substituted for the white miso, if desired. Our could cause clumping. washes away surface starch. favorite soba noodles are Shirakiku Soba Japanese Style Buck Wheat Noodle. This dish isn’t meant to be overtly spicy, but if you prefer more heat, use the directions, stirring occasionally, until noodles are halfway through toasting. Using scissors, cut nori full 1/teaspoon of red pepper flakes. These chilled cooked through but still retain some chew. Drain into four 2-inch strips. Stack strips and cut cross‑ noodles pair nicely with salmon, shrimp, tofu, or noodles and rinse under cold water until chilled. wise into thin strips. chicken for lunch or a light dinner. Our recipe for Drain well and transfer to large bowl. 3. Combine miso, mirin, oil, 1 tablespoon Chilled Soba Noodles with Cucumber, Snow Peas, 2. Grip nori sheet, if using, with tongs and hold water, sesame seeds, ginger, and pepper flakes in and Radishes for Two is available to web subscribers about 2 inches above low flame on gas burner. small bowl and whisk until smooth. Add dressing at CooksIllustrated.com/aug19. Toast nori, flipping every 3 to 5 seconds, until nori to noodles and toss to combine. Add cucumber, is aromatic and shrinks slightly, about 20 seconds. snow peas, radishes, scallions, and nori, if using, 8 ounces dried soba noodles If you do not have a gas stove, toast nori on rimmed and toss well to evenly distribute. Season with salt 1 (8-inch square) sheet nori (optional) baking sheet in 275-degree oven until it is aromatic to taste, and serve. 3 tablespoons white miso and shrinks slightly, 20 to 25 minutes, flipping nori 3 tablespoons mirin 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon sesame seeds INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT MIRIN 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger The dressing for our soba noodles gets its depth from mirin, a Japanese rice 1/4 –1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes wine that can take different forms. The traditional form ishon-mirin (“real 1/3 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, mirin”), a delicately savory-sweet wine that’s made exclusively from fer‑ seeded, and sliced thin on bias mented rice and is available online and in some liquor stores. Supermarkets 4 ounces snow peas, strings removed, sell a product labeled “sweet cooking wine,” “sweetened sake,” or “aji-mirin” cut lengthwise into matchsticks (“tastes like mirin”) that’s made with sweeteners, alcohol, rice, and salt. We 4 radishes, trimmed, halved, and sliced into have determined that in applications where mirin is a main ingredient, it’s thin half-moons worth seeking out the traditional, high-quality mirin. However, in recipes such 3 scallions, sliced thin on bias as this one that call for just a few tablespoons, it’s fine to use the supermarket NO NEED TO SPLURGE stuff, which is much cheaper: In a taste test, we couldn’t tell which batch of Hon-mirin and aji-mirin both 1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. noodles contained which type of mirin. work fine in this recipe. Stir in noodles and cook according to package

VEGETABLE PREP SCHOOL Here’s how to strategically cut the vegetables into shapes that will get tangled in the noodles instead of dropping to the bottom of the bowl.

CUCUMBER SCALLIONS RADISHES SNOW PEAS Quarter lengthwise, seed, and slice Slice white and green parts thin on bias. Trim ends, halve, and slice into thin Remove strings and cut lengthwise thin on bias. half-moons. into matchsticks. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION:

2019 annual 33 Hand-Rolled Ravioli With our supermalleable dough, you don’t need a pasta machine— or the skills of an Italian grandmother—to make tender yet springy ravioli.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

hen I have the time, I the opportunity to slow down, roll up my sleeves, and turn to proj‑ ects such as making ravioli the traditionalW way, without a pasta machine. There is something magical about mixing up a supple dough and then using only a rolling pin and a knife to create a stuffed pasta. A few years ago, we designed a pasta recipe to be rolled without a machine. It relies heavily on egg yolks and oil to provide enough fat to limit gluten development so the dough can be rolled without springing back. Cut into strands, boiled, and tossed with a creamy tomato sauce, the pasta is a real winner. To see how the dough would work as the wrapper for ravioli, I whipped up a batch in the food processor. After a resting period to allow the flour to hydrate and the gluten to relax, it was easy to roll into long sheets. Working with one sheet at a time, I brushed the lower half of the long side with egg white (this would help seal the ravioli) and then deposited six mounds of a simple ricotta filling on top of the egg wash. Folding the top half of the sheet toward me to An ultrasimple sauce of nutty browned butter and toasted pine nuts complements the delicate egg pasta. cover the filling was tricky: I suspended the dough with one hand and used my other hand to enclose THREE-CHEESE RAVIOLI WITH BROWNED BUTTER–PINE NUT SAUCE each mound in dough while pressing out air. (Trapped SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES 36 RAVIOLI) TOTAL TIME: 21 HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR RESTING air would create pockets of steam during cooking that could cause the wrapper to burst.) Once the perimeter If using King Arthur All-Purpose Flour, increase the egg yolks to seven. To ensure the proper dough texture, of each mound was sealed, I cut the sheet into indi‑ weigh the flour. The longer the dough rests in step 2, the easier it will be to roll out. When rolling, don’t add vidual ravioli and boiled them for 6 minutes. too much flour; it can cause excessive snapback. You can use a pasta machine if you prefer. If you don’t have a The filling was lackluster, but I could easily fix that. pot that holds 6 quarts, cook the ravioli in two batches; toss the first batch with some sauce in a bowl, cover it I was more concerned that the pasta seemed under‑ with foil, and keep it warm in a 200-degree oven while the second batch cooks. The ravioli may also be served done, especially at the edges where it was doubled. with our Quick Tomato Sauce; the recipe, along with our recipes for Meat Ravioli and Artichoke-Lemon To jazz up the ricotta, I folded in bits of creamy Ravioli with Browned Butter–Pine Nut Sauce, are available to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/jun19. fontina and shreds of nutty Parmesan along with a pinch of heady . I also fine-tuned my shaping Pasta Dough Ravioli method: Instead of folding the entire 18-inch length 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour, plus extra 1 large egg white, lightly beaten of dough over the mounds of cheese, I cut the sheet as needed Table salt for cooking into six rectangles and folded them individually. 2 large eggs plus 6 large yolks To address the underdone doubled edges, I could 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Sauce have followed the lead of most ravioli recipes and 8 tablespoons unsalted butter rolled the dough superthin. But that is incredibly Filling 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted difficult to do by hand. Instead, I just let the boil‑ 8 ounces (1 cup) whole-milk ricotta cheese 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley ing water do the work for me: I cooked another 4 ounces Italian fontina cheese, cut into 1/2 teaspoon table salt batch and sampled the ravioli at the 7-minute mark 1/4-inch pieces (1 cup) and every minute thereafter until they achieved 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup), plus a supple‑yet‑resilient texture, which took a full extra for serving 13 minutes. 1 large egg STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Topped with an elegant sauce of browned but‑ 1/2 teaspoon pepper NUTRITION INFORMATION ter studded with toasted pine nuts, these pillowy 1/4 teaspoon table salt CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19

three‑cheese ravioli were something to be savored. ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg KLISE STEVE PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 34 HAND-ROLLED THREE-CHEESE RAVIOLI PREPARE PASTA DOUGH AND FILLING

1. MAKE PASTA DOUGH: Process flour, before retesting. If dough doesn’t become cohe‑ temperature for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. eggs and yolks, and oil in food processor until sive, add up to 1 tablespoon water, 1 teaspoon Wipe processor bowl clean. mixture forms cohesive dough that feels soft and at a time, until it just comes together; process 3. MAKE FILLING: Process ricotta, fon‑ is barely tacky to touch, about 45 seconds. (Pinch 30 seconds longer.) tina, Parmesan, egg, pepper, salt, and nutmeg in dough between your fingers; if any dough sticks 2. KNEAD AND LET REST: Turn out now‑empty processor until smooth paste forms, to your fingers, add up to 1/4 cup extra flour, dough onto dry counter and knead until smooth, 25 to 30 seconds, scraping down sides of bowl as 1 tablespoon at a time. Process until flour is fully 1 to 2 minutes. Shape dough into 6-inch‑long needed. Transfer filling to medium bowl, cover incorporated after each addition, 10 to 15 seconds, cylinder. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest at room with plastic, and refrigerate until needed.

ROLL, SHAPE, AND BOIL

4 5

4. ROLL DOUGH INTO SQUARES: 5. ROLL DOUGH INTO SHEETS: Dust both sides of 1 dough square lightly with flour. Starting at Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment center of square, roll dough away from you in 1 motion. Return rolling pin to center of dough and roll toward paper. Cut dough cylinder crosswise into you in 1 motion. Repeat rolling steps until dough sticks to counter and measures roughly 12 inches long. 6 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece of dough Lightly dust both sides of dough with flour and continue to roll out dough until it measures roughly 20 inches at a time (keep remaining pieces covered), dust long and 6 inches wide, frequently lifting dough to release it from counter. (If dough firmly sticks to counter both sides with flour, place cut side down on and wrinkles when rolled out, carefully lift dough and dust counter lightly with flour.) Transfer dough sheet clean counter, and press into 3-inch square. to prepared baking sheet and cover with plastic. Repeat rolling with remaining 5 dough squares and transfer to Using heavy rolling pin, roll into 6-inch square. prepared sheet (2 dough sheets per layer; place parchment between layers). Keep dough covered with plastic.

6 7 8 9

6. DEPOSIT FILLING ON DOUGH: Line 7. SHAPE: Cut dough sheet at center points border around each mound (it’s not necessary to second baking sheet with parchment. Lay 1 dough between mounds of filling, separating it into 6 equal cut folded edge of ravioli, but you may do so, if sheet on clean counter with long side parallel to pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time, lift top edge desired). (Dough scraps can be frozen and added counter edge (keep others covered). Trim ends of of dough over filling and extend it so that it lines to soup.) Transfer ravioli to prepared baking sheet. dough with sharp knife so that corners are square up with bottom edge. Keeping top edge of dough Refrigerate until ready to cook. Repeat shaping and dough is 18 inches long. Brush bottom half suspended over filling with your thumbs, use your process with remaining dough and remaining filling. of dough with egg white. Starting 11 inches from fingers to press layers together, working around each 9. BOIL: Bring 6 quarts water to boil in large left edge of dough and 1 inch from bottom, deposit mound of filling from back to front, pressing out as pot. Add ravioli and 1 tablespoon salt. Cook, main‑ 1 tablespoon filling. Repeat placing 1‑tablespoon much air as possible before sealing completely. taining gentle boil, until ravioli are just tender, about mounds of filling, spaced 1½ inches apart, 1 inch 8. TRIM: Once all edges are sealed, use 13 minutes. (To test, pull 1 ravioli from pot, trim off from bottom edge of dough. You should be able sharp knife or fluted wheel to cut excess corner without cutting into filling, and taste. Return to fit 6 mounds of filling on 1 dough sheet. dough from around filling, leaving 1/4‑ to ½-inch ravioli to pot if not yet tender.) Drain well.

PREP ARE SAUCE 10 FREEZE FOR LATER 10. MAKE SAUCE; SERVE: While ravioli cook, melt butter in TO MAKE AHEAD: Freeze uncooked 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, swirling ravioli in single layer on parchment skillet constantly, until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. aroma, 1 to 3 minutes longer. Off heat, add pine nuts, parsley, and Transfer frozen ravioli to zipper-lock salt. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer ravioli to warmed bag and freeze for up to 1 month. bowls or plates; top with sauce. Serve immediately, passing extra Cook from frozen with no change to Parmesan separately. cooking time.

2019 annual 35 The Most Impressive Baked Pasta A triple-decker composition of tubular pasta, spiced meat sauce, and lush béchamel, Greek pastitsio is king among casseroles—and often a royal pain.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

astitsio is culinary pastiche in the most lit‑ eral sense. It’s a Greek meat and casserole inspired by similar Italian com‑ positions such as and lasagna P(pasticcio , the root of both “pastitsio” and “pas‑ tiche,” is an old Italian term for a pie containing meat and pasta); the seasonings are Hellenic; and it’s lavished with French béchamel. The dish is an alloy of language and cuisine. What makes pastitsio stand out from its Italian analogues is most obvious when you look at a slice of it: Instead of being jumbled together or loosely stacked, the casserole’s components are impressively stratified. The base layer typically features rows of wide-bore tubular pasta held together with a thin mortar of cheese and béchamel. Above that sits a band of tightly bound, robustly spiced ground meat and tomato sauce. Topping it all off is a plush blanket of cheesy béchamel. A well-constructed version holds together so that in each forkful, the layers remain separate but are experienced together. It’s classic comfort fare and one of my favorite things to order at a Greek diner—the type of dish you find at the center of many Greek family meals. But since there’s no hiding gluey or mushy noodles, dull or dry meat sauce, or grainy béchamel, the best versions take time and care to make. Streamlining the whole package without sacrificing its character was my goal, so I took on the challenge layer by layer.

[ NEAT ROWS OF NOODLES ] A layer of neatly aligned tubular pasta bound by creamy, cheesy béchamel sauce is a hallmark of pastitsio; each slice should look like it contains rows of stacked pipes. Traditional recipes call for “number 2” macaroni: long tubes that look like wide (in prominent Greek brands, the “2” refers to this shape of noodle). I found that ziti, the most widely available match in terms of diam‑ eter, was actually easier to work with; the stubby Italian tubes fell into parallel orientation with almost no effort. the pasta to just shy of al dente before USE BEEF, assembling and baking was key. Cooked any less, the NOT LAMB pasta tasted raw, while fully soft pasta collapsed and INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT Cheese ruined the “stacked pipes” visual and pleasing texture. Despite its prominence in Greek Kasseri is a Greek cheese that’s increasingly available in U.S. supermar‑ cuisine, lamb is not the traditional kets. It’s semifirm, stretchy, and salty like Italian provolone but richer choice in pastitsio—beef is. Because because it’s made from sheep’s (or sometimes a combination of sheep’s RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL beef is labeled with its fat content and goat’s) milk, which is fattier than cow’s milk. It’s the traditional Find these sides in our archive: Mediterranean and lamb is not, using beef also Chopped Salad (July/August 2009), Sautéed Swiss helps ensure that the dish choice for Greek baked casseroles such as pastitsio and , but Chard with Garlic (May/June 2015), and Broiled won’t be too lean or if you can’t find it, a 2:1 ratio of provolone to Pecorino Romano will Broccoli Rabe (September/October 2016). too greasy. approximate its flavor and elasticity. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 36 PASTITSIO [ A CHEESY COVER ] SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 2½ HOURS, PLUS 20 MINUTES COOLING In many cuisines, béchamel—the classic white sauce made by thickening milk with a roux—is a background component with a subtle presence. It holds together the Don’t use ground beef that’s less than 93 percent lean or the dish will be layers in lasagna, anchors the ham and Gruyère in a croque monsieur, and binds greasy. We like the richness of whole milk for this dish, but you can substitute up the elbows in . But in pastitsio, béchamel gets its chance 2 percent low-fat milk, if desired. Do not use skim milk. Kasseri is a semifirm in the spotlight. It’s typically thickened with cheese and sometimes egg and spread sheep’s-milk cheese from . If it’s unavailable, substitute a mixture of over the casserole into a distinct layer that bakes up custardy and browns deeply. 11/ounces (3/4 cup) grated Pecorino Romano and 3 ounces (3/4 cup) shredded (A portion of it also binds up the pasta layer.) provolone, adding 1/cup to the ziti in step 4, 1/cup to the béchamel, and I thickened the béchamel in two stages: First, I used it to parcook the pasta, the remaining 1/cup to the top of the béchamel. We strongly recommend which leached starch that tightened up the sauce just enough to hold the ziti using a spider skimmer to transfer the pasta to the baking dish, but a slotted together (see “The Sauce Cooks the Pasta; the Pasta spoon will work. To accommodate all the components, use a baking dish that Cooks the Sauce”). Then I strained out the pasta and is at least 21/4 inches tall. thickened the sauce further by whisking in cheese and an egg. Now the sauce was spreadable. A sprinkling Meat Sauce 1/4 cup red wine of more cheese over the top encouraged the surface 3/4 teaspoon table salt 1/3 cup tomato paste to brown. 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 cup water, Béchamel and Pasta [ SAVORY, SPICED MEAT SAUCE ] divided 2 tablespoons unsalted butter The most obvious difference between the meat sauce 8 ounces 93 percent lean 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour in pastitsio and a version you might find in an Italian ground beef 1 garlic clove, minced pasta dish is the seasoning. Cinnamon and oregano are 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon table salt traditional flavors, and dried mint and paprika further 1/2 cup finely chopped onion 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg distance it from anything in the Italian canon. 3 garlic cloves, minced 1/ teaspoon pepper The sauce should be tight and concentrated and the 11/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon 4 cups whole milk ground beef tender—both reasons that most recipes 1 teaspoon dried oregano 8 ounces (21/2 cups) ziti call for a long, slow simmer. But I found a faster way 1 teaspoon dried mint 4 ounces kasseri cheese, shredded to achieve both goals. Briefly treating 93 percent lean 1 teaspoon paprika (1 cup), divided ground beef (which has enough fat to stay supple with‑ 1/ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 large egg, lightly beaten out making the sauce greasy) with baking soda before 1/ teaspoon pepper cooking altered the meat’s chemistry so that it was better able to hold on to moisture, and skipping the 1. FOR THE MEAT SAUCE: Mix salt, baking soda, and 1 tablespoon water usual browning step avoided toughening its exterior. in bowl. Add beef and toss until thoroughly combined. Set aside. I had tender meat in about half the original time. 2. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add Minimizing the amount of liquid also expedited onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in cooking. One-quarter cup of red wine added bright‑ garlic, cinnamon, oregano, mint, paprika, pepper flakes, and pepper and cook ness, and instead of reducing tomato sauce, I thinned until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until out ultraconcentrated tomato paste with just enough mixture is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomato paste, beef mixture, and water to make the finished sauce appropriately fluid. remaining 1/cup water and cook, breaking up meat into pieces no larger than 1/4 inch with wooden spoon, until beef has just lost its pink color, 3 to 5 min‑ utes. Bring to simmer; cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Off heat, season with salt to taste. (Meat sauce can be The Sauce Cooks the Pasta; the Pasta refrigerated in airtight container for up to 3 days. Heat through before pro‑ Cooks the Sauce ceeding with step 3.) Most pastitsio recipes call for parcooking the pasta, tossing it with a portion 3. FOR THE BÉCHAMEL AND PASTA: Adjust oven rack to middle posi‑ of the béchamel, and thickening the remaining béchamel with enough roux to tion and heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 8-inch square baking dish with vegetable make it spreadable, not runny. But when I realized that the pasta could cook oil spray and place on rimmed baking sheet. Melt butter in large saucepan over in the béchamel, and that its starch could thicken the sauce, I combined medium heat. Add flour, garlic, salt, nutmeg, and pepper and cook, stirring con‑ these steps to make the process more efficient. stantly, until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in milk and bring to boil. Add pasta and return to simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Hot Béchamel Hydrates Pasta When mixture reaches simmer, cover and let stand off heat, stirring occasionally, Briefly simmering and then steeping for 15 minutes (pasta will not be fully cooked). the ziti in the béchamel hydrates its 4. Using spider skimmer, transfer pasta to prepared dish, leaving excess bécha‑ starch just enough to ensure that it will mel in saucepan. Sprinkle 1/3 cup kasseri over pasta and stir to combine. Using be fully cooked after baking. spatula, gently press pasta into even layer. Add 1/3 cup kasseri to béchamel and whisk to combine. Whisk egg into Pasta Starch Thickens Béchamel béchamel. Spread meat sauce over pasta STEP-BY-STEP As the pasta softens, it leaches and, using spatula, spread into even VIDEO AND starch that thickens the béchamel layer. Top with béchamel. Sprinkle NUTRITION (without it, the béchamel would remaining 1/3 cup kasseri over béchamel. INFORMATION require twice as much roux to thicken Bake until top of pastitsio is puffed and CooksIllustrated. up appropriately). spotty brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Let com/DEC19 cool for 20 minutes. Serve.

2019 annual 37 Grain Bowls at Home There’s a reason you order grain bowls at a counter rather than make them at home: Preparing multiple unique elements is a project. But what if you apply some strategy?

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

rchaeological evidence sug‑ Trending Toward Greatness gests that humans have been On to the vegetables and salmon. Stovetop eating from bowls for at least techniques would be inefficient since they 20,000 years. But never have require a certain amount of babysitting. bowlsA been as trendy as they are now. Roasting, however, is mostly hands-off and Noodle bowls, breakfast bowls, veggie would leave me available to check more bowls, bowls, and more (what’s a tasks off my list. As I thought about ways to Buddha bowl?) are all big sellers in the crank out two or three components at once, fast-casual dining scene, and I can see another trend came to mind: sheet-pan why: In a single vessel, you get a healthful, meals. Loading multiple ingredients onto vibrant mix of complementary flavors and a single baking sheet would be a fuss-free textures. Everything mingles as you eat, way to cook items in tandem. creating a uniquely satisfying experience. I decided on shiitake mushrooms and I particularly enjoy bowls built around carrots; both would be tender in about grains: Heaped onto a base of earthy, nubby 20 minutes as long as I cut the car‑ kernels, you’ll typically find some cooked rots thin. The vegetables would need vegetables, a protein, a potent dressing, a more time in the oven than the salmon, pickled element, and a crunchy garnish. so I would give them a head start at I knew that creating a grain bowl from 500 degrees before lowering the heat and scratch would be a project. After all, what adding the salmon fillets. makes a bowl so appealing is that it offers six I tossed the carrots with oil and salt and or seven distinct components. Sure enough, spread them on one half of a baking sheet. when I made my first one in the test kitchen, I gave the shiitake mushroom caps a similar hours went by—and there were mountains treatment, adding some water to the mix so of dishes to wash. But I was rewarded with a that steam would jump-start their cooking, terrific (and terrifically varied) meal. before spreading them out on the other half If I could streamline the process, I might Hoisin-glazed salmon, nutty brown rice, and roasted carrots and shiitakes of the sheet. just be able to turn grain bowls into a rea‑ team up with gingery pickled cucumbers in this Asian-inspired bowl. After 10 minutes, the carrots and sonable at-home endeavor. As I considered mushrooms were starting to soften and the challenge, timelines and opportunities for multi‑ chewy texture make it ideal for a bowl. It was also brown, so I removed the sheet from the oven and tasking swirled in my head. I was thinking less like a appealing because it can simply be boiled and drained pushed the vegetables to either side, making room cook and more like a project manager. rather than simmered via the more finicky absorp‑ in the center of the sheet for four salmon fillets that tion method, which requires a prescribed amount of I had brushed with hoisin sauce to create a sweet Goal Setting liquid. Rice and salmon work well with a variety of glaze. I returned the sheet to the oven, which I had Before diving in, I drafted a mission statement of seasonings; here, I decided to go for an Asian spin. turned down to 275 degrees, for 10 minutes—just sorts: Efficiency and organization would be key—sec‑ I’d work out the remaining details enough time to gently cook ond only to great taste, which is always paramount. as I went along. The bowls had to be everything through. The bowls had to be healthful and colorful. I would Taking roughly 30 minutes healthful and colorful. use as few ingredients as possible (repurposing ingre‑ to prepare, rice was the most I would use as few Recycle, Reuse dients would help achieve that goal) and as little time‑consuming element of the Things were humming right equipment as I could get away with. Finally, I wanted dish. I put a pot of water on to ingredients as possible and along. The only remaining ele‑ to develop several recipes to suit varied tastes. boil, and while it heated, I wasted as little equipment as ment was the dressing, which I outlined a vision for my first bowl. The protein no time getting started on the I could get away with. meant I needed oil and acid. would be salmon: It fit in nicely with my guidelines pickled element. Making pickles is I glanced at my workstation, of speed, ease, and healthfulness. Brown rice seemed a profitable undertaking if there ever was one. They spotting the cucumbers soaking in lightly sweet like a good choice for the grain; its nutty taste and require almost no work—just a bit of time—yet the vinegar. There was the acid. To give the vegetable flavor payout is huge. I simply sweetened white vin‑ oil for the dressing some personality, I sizzled sliced STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND egar with a little sugar, enlivened it with grated fresh scallion whites and ginger in it just for 30 seconds NUTRITION INFORMATION ginger, and then stirred in sliced cucumber. I set the until their aromas were released. CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 cukes aside to soak, put the rice into the now‑boiling As I waited for the infused oil to cool, I real‑

water, and continued to work. ized that the next time around, I could maximize TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 38 Grain Bowl Flowchart We wanted a recipe whose multiple components could be prepared in a single cooking session. To keep the time to about an hour, we strategized to find shortcuts: We repurposed ingredients in multiple applications, chose straightforward cooking methods, roasted three ingredients in tandem on a single baking sheet, and started long‑cooking items early to allow for multitasking.

1. PREPARE ITEMS THAT NEED TO COOL MAKE INFUSED OIL USE OIL IN DRESSING OR FRY GARNISH; LET COOL

2. START PREPARING TIME-CONSUMING COMPONENTS USE PUT WATER MAKE LIQUID IN FOR GRAINS QUICK PICKLES; DRESSING ON TO BOIL LET SOAK

3. COOK REMAINING COMPONENTS AND MAKE DRESSING BOIL GRAINS; ROAST MAKE ASSEMBLE DRAIN WHEN 2 VEGETABLES DRESSING BOWLS TENDER AND 1 PROTEIN

productivity by making the scallion-ginger oil before Mission accomplished: Here were four hearty but 1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat anything else. It could cool as I prepared other items, light, great-tasting bowls that didn’t require tons of oven to 500 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large and then it would be ready to go when it was time ingredients, time, or equipment. saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add to mix the dressing. scallion whites and 11 teaspoons ginger and cook, I carried on, combining a few tablespoons of the BROWN RICE BOWL WITH stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. pickling liquid with the oil and a little more of the VEGETABLES AND SALMON Transfer scallion mixture to small bowl. hoisin sauce that I’d just painted onto the salmon. SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS 2. Bring 6 cups water to boil in now-empty I took a taste: With very little work, I’d achieved a saucepan. While water is coming to boil, whisk deeply complex, sweet-tart dressing. If your knife is too dull to cut through the salmon vinegar, sugar, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and remaining Ready for assembly, I pulled out four shallow skin, try a serrated knife. It is important to keep ½ teaspoon ginger in medium bowl until sugar is bowls. To avoid any dry grains, I tossed the rice the skin on during cooking; once the salmon is dissolved. Add cucumber and stir until coated. Set with some of the dressing before arranging the cooked, the skin will be easy to remove. Toast the aside, stirring occasionally. hoisin‑glazed salmon, roasted shiitakes and carrots, sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until 3. Add rice and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling water. and gingery cucumbers on top. More dressing and fragrant (about 1 minute), and then remove the Reduce heat and simmer until rice is tender, about showers of toasted sesame seeds and sliced scallion skillet from the heat so the seeds won’t scorch. Our 30 minutes. Drain rice well and return it to saucepan. greens finished the bowl with final layers of crunch recipe for Farro Bowl with Vegetables and Cover and set aside. and freshness. I would pass sriracha at the table for is available to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated. 4. While rice is cooking, toss carrots with 1 table‑ those who liked a spicy kick. This bowl was every‑ com/feb19. spoon oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Spread in even layer thing I’d hoped for, and I’d pulled it off in about on half of rimmed baking sheet. Toss mushrooms an hour. 1/4 cup vegetable oil, divided with 2 tablespoons water, remaining 1 tablespoon With my maximum-efficiency bowl complete, 3 scallions, white and green parts separated oil, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and spread I used my template to create three more: another and sliced thin on bias in even layer on other half of sheet. Roast until Asian-inspired bowl featuring honey-sriracha tofu 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger, divided vegetables are just beginning to soften and brown, and ; a chicken and brown rice bowl with 1/3 cup distilled white vinegar about 10 minutes. Southwestern accents such as chipotle, lime, and 1 tablespoon sugar 5. While vegetables are cooking, cut salmon in pepitas; and a final bowl combining farro and sau‑ 13/4 teaspoons table salt, divided, plus salt for half. Halve each piece crosswise to create 4 equal sage with roasted broccoli rabe, red peppers, and cooking rice pieces. Make 2 shallow slashes about 1 inch apart pickled grapes. 1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, along skin side of each piece, being careful not to seeded, and sliced on bias 1/4 inch thick cut into flesh. Brush flesh side of each piece with 13/4 cups short-grain brown rice ½ teaspoon hoisin. Grain Bowls, Now or Later 1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced on bias 6. Reduce oven temperature to 275 degrees and Each of our grain bowl recipes makes four 1/2 inch ickth remove sheet. Push vegetables to either side to clear servings. Serve them all at once, or pack up 1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, space in middle of sheet. Carefully place salmon, skin the components separately and you’ll have the caps larger than 2 inches halved side down, in clearing. Return sheet to oven and makings of two meals for two—or four meals 1 (1-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, about roast until vegetables are tender and browned and for one—ready at a moment’s notice to eat at 11/2 inches thick at thickest part centers of fillets are still translucent when checked home or take on the go. The bowls are equally 4 teaspoons hoisin sauce, divided with tip of paring knife and register 125 degrees (for good served hot or at room temperature. 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted medium‑rare), 10 to 12 minutes.

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: Sriracha (optional) 7. Measure out 1/4 cup cucumber liquid and add

2019 annual 39 to scallion mixture. Whisk in remaining 2 teaspoons pinch salt. (Do not wash saucepan or strainer.) hoisin. Stir 2 tablespoons dressing into rice. 2. Whisk together 2 tablespoons sriracha, 1 table‑ 8. Spoon rice into 4 wide bowls. Place 1 piece of spoon honey, and ½ teaspoon salt in second salmon on top of rice. Arrange carrots, mushrooms, medium bowl. Add tofu and gently toss until evenly and cucumbers in piles that cover rice. Drizzle coated. Cover and refrigerate. Combine vinegar, salmon and vegetables with remaining dressing. ½ teaspoon salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon honey Sprinkle with sesame seeds and scallion greens. Serve, in third medium bowl. Microwave until simmering, passing sriracha separately, if using. 1 to 2 minutes. Add cabbage and stir until coated. Set aside, stirring occasionally. 3. Toss carrots with 1½ teaspoons oil and 1/4tea ‑ spoon salt and spread on half of rimmed baking sheet. Toss broccolini with remaining 1½ teaspoons oil and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and pile on other half of sheet. Roast until carrots are tender and broc‑ colini is crisp in spots, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring vegetables halfway through roasting. 4. While vegetables are roasting, add 6 cups water to now-empty saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Add bulgur and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling water. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain bulgur in fine-mesh strainer and return it to saucepan. Cover and set aside. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat 5. Measure out 2 tablespoons cabbage liquid and oven to 450 degrees. Place chicken breasts in center add to reserved shallot oil. Whisk in mayonnaise and of 20- by 12-inch sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. remaining 1 tablespoon sriracha. Mix 3 tablespoons Sprinkle ⅛ teaspoon salt evenly over each side of each dressing into bulgur. breast. Bring short sides of foil together and crimp to 6. Spoon bulgur into 4 wide bowls. Arrange seal tightly. Crimp remaining open ends of packet, tofu, carrots, and broccolini in piles that cover leaving as much headroom as possible inside packet. BULGUR BOWL WITH VEGETABLES bulgur. Using fork, lift cabbage out of liquid Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. AND MARINATED TOFU and divide evenly among bowls. Drizzle tofu and 2. Combine vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS vegetables with remaining dressing. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt in medium bowl. Microwave until shallots and serve. simmering, 1 to 2 minutes. Add onion and jalapeños Stop cooking the shallots once they turn light and stir until coated. Set aside, stirring occasionally. golden brown; they will continue to darken and SOUTHWESTERN BROWN RICE BOWL 3. Bring 6 cups water to boil in large saucepan. crisp as they cool. Arranging the broccolini in a WITH VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN While water is coming to boil, toss poblanos with pile instead of spreading it out on the baking sheet SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS 1 tablespoon oil and ½ teaspoon salt. Spread in even creates textural contrast and prevents the broccolini layer on half of rimmed baking sheet. Toss corn with from drying out. For a spicier grain bowl, add the larger amounts of remaining ½ teaspoon salt and remaining 1 table‑ jalapeños and chipotle. There is no need to thaw the spoon oil and spread in even layer on other half of 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided corn before cooking. sheet. Roast until poblanos begin to soften and corn 3 shallots, sliced into thin rounds begins to brown at edges, about 10 minutes. 13/4 teaspoons plus pinch table salt, divided, 2 (6-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, 4. Add rice and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling water. plus salt for cooking bulgur trimmed Reduce heat and simmer until rice is tender, about 3 tablespoons sriracha, divided 2 teaspoons table salt, divided, plus salt for 25 minutes. Drain rice well and return it to saucepan. 2 tablespoons honey, divided cooking rice Cover and set aside. 14 ounces firm tofu, cut into 3/4-inch cubes 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar 5. While rice cooks, stir corn and poblanos and 1/2 cup rice vinegar 2 tablespoons lime juice push to either side of sheet to create clearing in cen‑ 11/2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage 1 tablespoon sugar ter. Place foil packet in clearing and return sheet to 1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced on bias 1 small red onion, halved and sliced thin oven. Cook until vegetables are tender and browned ½ 1/2 inch thick 1–2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed and sliced into thin and chicken registers 160 degrees, 18 to 20 minutes. 1 pound broccolini, trimmed and cut into rings Carefully open packet, transfer chicken to cutting 1-inch pieces 3 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut board, and let rest for 3 minutes. Halve each breast 11/4 cups medium-grind bulgur into 1-inch pieces lengthwise, then slice crosswise ½ inch thick. 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 6. Transfer 1/4 cup onion liquid to small bowl. Add 3 cups frozen corn mayonnaise and chipotle and whisk until smooth. Stir 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat 11/2 cups long-grain brown rice 3 tablespoons dressing into rice. oven to 425 degrees. Heat 1/4 cup oil and shallots in 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 7. Spoon rice into 4 wide bowls. Arrange avocado, large saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly 2–3 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in chicken, poblanos, corn, and pickled onion and jala‑ once shallots start to sizzle. Cook until shallots are deep adobo sauce peños in piles that cover rice. Spoon 1 tablespoon golden, 6 to 10 minutes. Drain shallots in fine-mesh 1 ripe avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into dressing over each portion of chicken and drizzle strainer set over medium bowl; reserve oil. Transfer 1/2-inch pieces remaining dressing over corn and poblanos. Sprinkle

shallots to paper towel–lined plate and sprinkle with 1/4 cup roasted, salted pepitas with pepitas and serve. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 40 Pizza al Taglio Tender and airy yet substantial, this Roman pie is often topped like an open-faced sandwich. It’s also one of the easiest pizzas you’ll ever make.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

n a small, unassuming pizzeria in a shopping plaza on the outskirts of Rome, I ate the greatest slice of pizza I’ve ever had. It was rectangular, about 3/4 inch high, slicked with Ia nearly imperceptible varnish of tomato sauce, and topped with soppressata, oozy provolone and mozzarella cheeses, and paper-thin slices of potato. The sauce, soppressata, and cheeses combined for a salty-savory punch, and the potatoes—not some‑ thing I would normally think to include on pizza— were lightly crisped, browned, and curled at the edges. But the best part of this pizza was the crust: full of irregularly sized holes, tender and chewy in equal measure, with an audibly crisp yet delicate bottom and a yeasty, tangy, complex flavor. This memorable slice turned out to be a Roman invention known as pizza al taglio. Though it’s baked in rectangular pans and cut into slabs like , its bubbly crumb and delicately crisp bottom bear more of a resemblance to good focac‑ cia. And though the toppings on the slice I enjoyed had been applied before the crust went into the oven so they could cook and brown, pizza al taglio can This airy, -like crust needs no kneading, stretching, pizza peel, or stone. Time does most of the work. also resemble an open-faced sandwich, with fresh or uncooked items such as salad greens, soft cheeses, or stretch and expand during baking to produce an airy With all that in mind, I put together a working cured meats piled on when the crust comes out of the crumb full of large and small holes. (Drier , recipe. Averaging ingredient amounts I’d found oven. Roman pizzerias adorn it in a variety of ways on the other hand, tend to have tighter crumbs with in other recipes, I settled on a 75 percent hydra‑ and display it behind glass in deli-style cases, where smaller holes.) tion level (meaning 75 grams of water for every it is sold by the length and cut with scissors (al taglio A long, cool fermentation of at least 16 hours also 100 grams of flour), 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 1 tea‑ means “by the cut”). serves a couple of functions: At lower temperatures, spoon of instant , and 11/4 teaspoons of salt. the yeast produces more of the desirable acids that Though most pizza recipes these days use a stand Dealing with Dough give bread better, more complex flavor than it does mixer to make the dough, all the al taglio recipes The challenge to creating my own version of al taglio at room temperature (see “The Refrigerator: A Good I found did it by hand. Furthermore, instead of would be designing a crust that was substantial— Flavor Incubator”). And though shorter rests help kneading the dough, they simply folded it over itself strong enough to support all those toppings—yet strengthen gluten, longer rests actually loosen the several times, rested it, then repeated the folds and also characteristically tender and airy. The few recipes gluten structure, making it more flexible and the the rest one or two more times. I found for al taglio dough aimed to do this through crust more tender. I loved how simple and low-tech this approach two interrelated approaches: high hydration and long fermentation. Putting lots of water in the dough serves two TECHNIQUE HOW TO FOLD DOUGH main functions. One, it aids in gluten development Instead of kneading the dough, our by helping the proteins in the flour find each other recipe calls for folding it in on itself, more easily than they would in a drier dough, so letting it rest, and then folding and let‑ they can more readily align and form the cross‑links ting it rest again. This allows gluten to necessary for good structure. Two, it makes the gluten develop. Here’s how we do it. strands more flexible, which in turn allows them to 1. Grasp section of dough with your wet fingertips and gently lift. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND 2. Place edge down in middle of NUTRITION INFORMATION dough. Rotate bowl 90 degrees and CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 repeat for total of 6 turns. PHOTOGRAPHY: DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE VAN J. DANIEL PHOTOGRAPHY:

2019 annual 41 FOLDED BY HAND KNEADED BY MACHINE Dough that we kneaded in a mixer for 10 minutes produced a crust that was noticeably squatter and had smaller air bubbles than one made from dough we folded by hand according to our recipe. That’s because less gluten developed in the kneaded dough, so it was less able to hold on to air bubbles during proofing and baking.

Hand versus Machine dough than kneading continuously in a stand mixer and then letting the dough rest With most pizza dough, kneading in a stand mixer or food processor is an efficient for a similar total time. The rests give enzymes in the dough time to snip gluten way to develop gluten, the network of protein strands that gives bread structure. strands into smaller pieces that line up more easily and form cross-links. While the But for our pizza al taglio dough, we follow tradition, using a series of rests and folds build on this activity by laying the nascent sheets of gluten on top of each two sets of folds to create structure. These folds—and the rests before, during, other, the dough hook has a hard time catching the wet mixture and pulls it more and after folding—are actually more effective at building gluten in this very wet haphazardly around the mixer bowl, so less gluten develops. was, and I followed suit: I stirred together bread much gluten developed and the dough baked up into remained was to look at improving my shaping and flour, yeast, water, and oil in a bowl with a wooden a flatter, less airy crust. To understand why, see “Hand baking approach. Though the dough was plenty spoon until no dry flour remained. I covered the versus Machine.”) The dough was now smooth and relaxed from its long slumber in the refrigerator, dough and let it rest for 10 minutes. This quick supple; it was also starting to show plenty of yeast all the manhandling I did trying to stretch a round rest—known technically as an autolyse—lets the activity. I then covered the bowl with plastic wrap ball into a wide rectangle tightened up the gluten flour absorb water and encourages gluten develop‑ and placed it in the refrigerator to ferment overnight. and made the dough prone to springing back from ment to begin before the salt (which would inhibit After its overnight rest, I brushed the top of the the edges of the sheet and hard to shape into an both) is added. Then I stirred in the salt and let the dough with oil, turned it out onto a baking sheet lib‑ even thickness. dough sit for another 20 minutes. erally coated with vegetable oil spray, and stretched it What if I started out with something more rectan‑ It was time to fold. After wetting my hands to as best I could toward the corners of the sheet. I cov‑ gular in shape? Instead of fermenting the dough in prevent the dough from sticking to them, I gently ered the dough and let it proof at room temperature its mixing bowl overnight, I moved it to a baking pan lifted the edge of the dough and brought it to the until it was slightly puffy, which took about an hour. (coated with vegetable oil spray first) and pressed it middle, repeating these folds all the way around the I brushed on a simple tomato sauce and, to give the into an oval before wrapping the pan and placing it dough. Once again, I covered it and let it rest. After dough’s moisture more time to cook off, baked it in the refrigerator. 20 minutes, I gave the dough another set of folds. in the middle of a 450-degree oven instead of the The next day, I once again brushed the dough with These simple movements, in combination with time, usual 500-degree oven. I hoped a lower temperature oil, inverted an oiled baking sheet on top of it, and were a surprisingly effective way to build gluten in (and thus a longer baking time) would mean that the then flipped everything. With a bit of coaxing, the this wet dough. (When I compared kneading the bottom of the crust would crisp sufficiently without dough fell out of the pan and onto the sheet, fully dough continuously in a stand mixer for 10 minutes a baking stone. After about 25 minutes, the bottom relaxed and more than halfway to its final dimensions. and then letting it rest for a similar total time, not as was reasonably crisp and the top was browned. At that point, it was easy to stretch the rest of the way by gently dimpling the dough and dragging it toward Making a Good Thing Better the corners of the sheet. Best of all, I didn’t have to SCIENCE The Refrigerator: The crust from this first go-round wasn’t bad. It had press the dough much, so it retained all the irregular A Good Flavor Incubator great flavor, good stature, and a decent mix of large alveoli that had formed during proofing, resulting in When dough is left to ferment, the yeast con‑ and small alveoli (air pockets). But it wasn’t quite as the best crust yet. (If you’re wondering why I didn’t sumes sugars in the wheat, producing primarily light and tender as I wanted it to be. There were also just proof the dough in the baking sheet the whole alcohol and carbon dioxide, which gives the some mechanical issues that needed fixing. Even after time, there’s a good reason: The dough needs plenty dough proper rise. Numerous organic acids are sitting in the baking sheet for an hour, the dough was of oil on its underside to prevent sticking and to help also produced that, like alcohol, contribute flavor. a little elastic and thus hard to fully and evenly stretch it crisp on the bottom. The oil also needs to go on At room temperature, the fermentation hap‑ over the surface of the sheet. just before baking so that it doesn’t get absorbed by pens fast: The yeast eats all the sugar it can find To improve the crust’s texture, I started by the dough.) Finally, to get the bottom to crisp up a in just a few hours, creating carbon dioxide and increasing the amount of water. At 80 percent hydra‑ little more, I moved the sheet from the middle of the alcohol but a minimal amount of the flavorful tion, it was definitely lighter, airier, and more tender. oven to the lowest rack, closer to the heat source. acids. When we put the dough in the refrigera‑ And 85 percent was even better, but at that point it Nearly anything you might want to put on top of tor to ferment instead, the cold slows and alters was a very sticky dough that was challenging to work bread—or in between two slices of it—can work as an the yeast’s , so it ferments the sugars with. So I settled on 82 percent—12 ounces of water al taglio topping. I topped one version with arugula, more slowly, which creates more of the flavorful and 142/3 ounces of flour—as a compromise for an fresh mozzarella, and Parmesan when it came out of acid byproducts. Meanwhile, enzymes turn more easier-to-handle dough. the oven. To re-create that epic slice from Rome, of the flour’s starch into sugars, giving the yeast I also upped the olive oil in the dough from 1 to I layered another with soppressata, provolone, and more raw material to work with. Over the course 2 tablespoons. That’s because fat lubricates the gluten potato slices. I piled , fresh figs, and ricotta of a 16- to 24-hour rest, the yeast produces strands, making them more flexible during proofing, salata on a third version. more and more flavor compounds. The result is which allows larger alveoli to form without bursting. I’d never pass up a chance to go back to that piz‑ better-tasting crust (or bread). It also increases tenderness. zeria in Rome. But now that I have my own “pizza With a solid dough formula in place, all that by the cut,” I don’t have to.

cook’s illustrated 42 PIZZA AL TAGLIO WITH ARUGULA PIZZA AL TAGLIO WITH AND FRESH MOZZARELLA refrigerate until needed (sauce can be refrigerated POTATOES AND SOPPRESSATA SERVES 4 TO 6 in airtight container for up to 2 days). TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 18 HOURS RESTING 5. FOR THE TOPPING: Brush top of dough Decrease oil in topping to 3 tablespoons and omit with 2 tablespoons oil. Spray rimmed baking sheet arugula, mozzarella, and Parmesan. After spread‑ The dough for this pizza requires a 16- to 24-hour (including rim) with oil spray. Invert prepared sheet ing sauce over dough, lay 6 ounces thinly sliced rest in the refrigerator. You’ll get the crispest texture on top of pan and flip, allowing dough to fall onto soppressata in even layer over sauce, followed by by using high-protein King Arthur bread flour, but sheet (you may need to lift pan and nudge dough at 10 ounces thinly sliced provolone. Toss 1 pound other bread flours will also work. For the best results, 1 end to release). Using your fingertips, gently dimple peeled and thinly sliced small Yukon Gold potatoes weigh your flour and water. The bread flour should dough into even thickness and stretch toward edges of with ½ teaspoon pepper and remaining 1 table‑ weigh 142/3 ounces, regardless of which brand of flour sheet to form 15 by 11-inch oval. Spray top of dough spoon oil. Starting in 1 corner, shingle potatoes to is used. Anchovies give the sauce depth, so don’t omit lightly with oil spray, cover loosely with plastic, and form even row across bottom of pizza, overlapping them; they won’t make the sauce taste fishy. Use the let rest until slightly puffy, 1 to 11/4 hours. each slice by about one-quarter. Continue to layer large holes of a box grater to shred the Parmesan. 6. Thirty minutes before baking, adjust oven rack potatoes in rows, overlapping each row by about to lowest position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Just one-quarter. Bake pizza as directed until bottom of Dough before baking, use your fingertips to gently dimple crust is evenly browned and potatoes are browned 22/3 cups (142/3 ounces) bread flour dough into even thickness, pressing into corners around edges. Sprinkle pizza with 2 teaspoons 1 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast of sheet. Using back of spoon or ladle, spread chopped fresh parsley before serving. 11/2 cups (12 ounces) water, room temperature ½ cup sauce in even layer over surface of dough. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (Remaining sauce can be frozen for up to 2 months.) PIZZA AL TAGLIO WITH 11/4 teaspoons table salt 7. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil over top of sauce and PROSCIUTTO AND FIGS Vegetable oil spray use back of spoon to spread evenly over surface. Transfer sheet to oven and bake until bottom of Omit sauce ingredients as well as arugula, moz‑ Sauce crust is evenly browned and top is lightly browned zarella, and Parmesan in topping. Spread remain‑ 1 (14.5-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, in spots, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating sheet halfway ing 2 tablespoons oil evenly over dough. Bake drained through baking. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let pizza as directed until bottom of crust is evenly 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil cool for 5 minutes. Run knife around rim of sheet browned and top is lightly browned in spots. Let 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed to loosen pizza. Transfer pizza to cutting board and pizza cool, then cut as directed. Top slices of pizza 1 teaspoon dried oregano cut into 8 rectangles. Toss arugula with remaining with 4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, followed 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1 tablespoon oil in bowl. Top pizza with arugula, by 8 thinly sliced figs and 2 ounces thinly shaved 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes followed by mozzarella and Parmesan, and serve. ricotta salata.

Topping 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided RECIPE SHORTHAND HOW TO MAKE AND SHAPE THE DOUGH 4 ounces (4 cups) baby arugula Our pizza al taglio crust couldn’t be much easier. While it requires time—an hour up front, an overnight rest, 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, torn into and another hour of rising before you bake—the hands-on work takes just minutes. Plus, it doesn’t require any bite-size pieces (about 2 cups) messy stretching on the counter or equipment such as a stand mixer, food processor, baking stone, or pizza peel. 11/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, shredded (1/2 cup)

1. FOR THE DOUGH: Whisk flour and yeast together in medium bowl. Add room-temperature water and oil and stir with wooden spoon until shaggy mass forms and no dry flour remains. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit for 10 minutes. Sprinkle salt over dough and mix until fully incorporated. Cover bowl with plastic and let dough rest for 20 minutes. 2. Using your wet hands, fold dough over itself MIX DOUGH; 2 SHORT TWO SETS OF FOLDS; COLD-FERMENT IN BAKING by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward RESTS During rests, gluten 2 SHORT RESTS Each set of PAN Roomy baking pan allows us middle. Turn bowl 90 degrees; fold again. Turn bowl develops and strengthens dough. folds slightly tightens dough. to shape dough into large oval. and fold dough 4 more times (total of 6 turns). Cover bowl with plastic and let dough rest for 20 minutes. Repeat folding technique, turning bowl each time, until dough tightens slightly, 3 to 6 turns total. Cover bowl with plastic and let dough rest for 10 minutes. 3. Spray bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking pan liber‑ ally with oil spray. Transfer dough to prepared pan and spray top of dough lightly with oil spray. Gently press dough into 10 by 7-inch oval of even thickness. Cover pan tightly with plastic and refrigerate for at least 16 hours or up to 24 hours. BRUSH WITH OIL; INVERT PROOF WHILE PREHEATING SPREAD DOUGH IN SHEET 4. FOR THE SAUCE: While dough rests, pro‑ ONTO BAKING SHEET Oil OVEN After 1 hour, oval-shaped Dimpling motion will help keep cess all ingredients in blender until smooth, 20 to will help bottom of crust crisp. dough will puff slightly. bubbles intact and dough airy. 30 seconds. Transfer sauce to bowl, cover, and

2019 annual 43 How to Make Pupusas These savory stuffed corn cakes are steeped in 2,000 years of Latin American history. But for a version that even a rookie could pull off, we had to break with tradition.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

upusas have been sustaining Latin Americans since pre-Columbian times. And when a food has that kind of longev‑ ity, you know it has to be good. Though PSalvadorans and Hondurans both lay claim to the recipe, in El Salvador it is considered the . There, these enticing packages are made by stuffing cheese, beans, braised meat, or a combina‑ tion thereof into a ball of corn flour dough called masa. The ball is flattened into a 4- or 5-inch disk and cooked on a comal (a dry cast-iron griddle) until the tender corn cake forms a spotty‑brown, crisp shell. Garnished with curtido (a bright slaw) and a spicy salsa, the result is downright irresistible. The Salvadoran cooks I’ve seen shape pupusas look like they could do it in their sleep: They work masa into a fist-size cup, spoon in the filling, and pinch the dough closed to form a ball before slapping it back and forth between their hands to create a disk. Sound easy? It isn’t. The first time I tried, it was obvious I was a novice. Using a dough made with the usual ratio of 2 parts masa harina (corn flour) to 1 part We stuff our pupusas with gooey Monterey Jack and salty cotija cheese and serve them with a bright cabbage water, I formed the cakes as best I could. But the slaw called curtido and a spicy tomato salsa. masa was too dry, which caused the pupusas to crack and the filling to spill out. harina with a full 2 cups of water. Now the dough spread to the edges, leaving all but the centermost Using hot tap water instead of cool, as some was a dream to handle, and the cakes cooked up as bites tasting of plain dough. recipes suggest, worked better since heat causes the moist as could be. I decided to try a riff on our technique for making starch in corn to absorb more water (just as it does in But although the dough was no longer sticky, my tortillas. I rolled my superhydrated masa into a ball, wheat flour). But boiling water was even more effec‑ pupusas were still thick at the centers and thin at the placed it inside a zipper-lock bag that I’d cut open at tive, allowing me to superhydrate the 2 cups of masa edges—even after all my practice. The filling never the seams, and used a glass pie plate to press it into a

STEP BY STEP PUPUSAS FOR FIRST-TIMERS The traditional method of shaping a pupusa—slapping a sticky ball of filled dough back and forth between your hands, patty-cake style—requires lots of practice to consis‑ tently produce neat, even cakes. We came up with a technique that’s virtually foolproof, even for beginners: First, prepare a superhydrated (and therefore easy‑to‑handle) dough by mixing boiling water and masa harina. Second, shape the dough and the cheese into balls. Finally, follow our unique shaping steps.

1. Using marker, draw 4-inch circle in 2. Place open bag marked side down on 3. Turn out disk into your palm and place 4. Return ball to zipper-lock bag and use center of 1 side of 1‑quart or 1‑gallon counter. Place dough ball in center of cheese ball in center. Bring sides of dough pie plate to slowly press to 4-inch diam‑ zipper-lock bag. Cut open seams along circle. Fold other side of bag over ball. up around filling; pinch to seal. Remoisten eter. Pinch closed any small cracks that both sides of bag, but leave bottom seam Using glass pie plate, gently press dough your hands and roll ball, smoothing any form at edges. Repeat steps 2 through 4 intact so bag opens completely. to 4-inch diameter. cracks with your damp fingertip. with remaining dough and filling. PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE JOHN ILLUSTRATION: KLISE; STEVE PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 44 disk. I turned the disk out into my palm, placed some The Crack Test filling (more on that next) in the center, and gathered Before forming the pupusas, test the dough’s hydration the dough to form a ball, which I again pressed with by flattening a golf ball–size piece of dough. If cracks the pie plate to form a perfectly round pupusa of even larger than 1/4 inch form around the edges, add more TOO DRY thickness. Even a newbie could pull this off. water, 2 teaspoons at a time. Large cracks As for the filling, basic pupusas are stuffed with a form in a test fresh Salvadoran cheese called quesillo that’s delicious piece of dough. but hard to find. Some recipes suggest swapping 4. Knead dough in bowl for 15 to 20 seconds. in mozzarella, but we found it too bland. Instead, Test dough’s hydration by flattening golf ball–size I landed on a mix of Monterey Jack for its meltability piece. If cracks larger than 1/4 inch form around transfer pupusas to zipper-lock bag. Freeze for up and cotija—a readily available Mexican cheese—for edges, add warm tap water, 2 teaspoons at a time, to 1 month. Cook directly from frozen, increasing its salty tang. until dough is soft and slightly tacky. Transfer dough cooking time by 1 minute per side. These perfectly flat, round pupusas, stuffed from to counter, shape into large ball, and divide into edge to edge with salty, supple cheese, would fool 8 equal pieces. Using your damp hands, roll 1 dough QUICK SALSA anyone into thinking I’d been making them all piece into ball and place on empty half of prepared SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES my life. sheet. Cover with damp dish towel. Repeat with remaining dough pieces. For a spicier salsa, add the jalapeño seeds as desired. PUPUSAS 5. Place open cut bag marked side down on SERVES 4 (MAKES 8 PUPUSAS) TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS counter. Place 1 dough ball in center of circle. Fold 1/4 small red onion other side of bag over ball. Using glass pie plate or 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring 8-inch square baking dish, gently press dough to 1/2 small jalapeño chile, seeded and minced a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure 4-inch diameter, using circle drawn on bag as guide. 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained out the desired amount. Properly hydrated masa Turn out disk into your palm and place 1 cheese ball 2 teaspoons lime juice, plus extra for seasoning dough should be tacky, requiring damp hands to in center. Bring sides of dough up around filling and 1 small garlic clove, minced keep it from sticking to your palms. If the dough pinch top to seal. Remoisten your hands and roll ball 1/4 teaspoon table salt feels the slightest bit dry at any time, knead in warm until smooth, smoothing any cracks with your damp Pinch pepper tap water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the dough is fingertip. Return ball to bag and slowly press to 4-inch tacky. An occasional leak while frying the pupusas is diameter. Pinch closed any small cracks that form at Pulse onion, cilantro, and jalapeño in food pro‑ to be expected, and the browned cheese is delicious. edges. Return pupusa to sheet and cover with damp cessor until finely chopped, 5 pulses, scraping down Feta cheese can be substituted for the cotija; if you dish towel. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. sides of bowl as needed. Add tomatoes, lime juice, can find quesillo, use 10 ounces in place of the cotija 6. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch non‑ garlic, salt, and pepper and process until smooth, and Monterey Jack. Our recipe for Pupusas with stick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. 20 to 30 seconds. Season with salt and extra lime Beans and Cheese is available to web subscribers at Wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Carefully lay juice to taste. CooksIllustrated.com/aug19. 4 pupusas in skillet and cook until spotty brown on both sides, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to plat‑ CURTIDO 2 cups (8 ounces) masa harina ter and repeat with remaining 4 pupusas. Serve warm SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR CHILLING 1/2 teaspoon table salt with salsa and curtido. 2 cups boiling water, plus warm tap water TO MAKE AHEAD: At end of step 5, wrap For a spicier slaw, add the jalapeño seeds as desired. as needed baking sheet in plastic wrap and freeze until pupusas 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided are solid. Wrap pupusas individually in plastic, then 1 cup cider vinegar 2 ounces cotija cheese, cut into 2 pieces 1/2 cup water 8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, cut into 8 pieces 1 tablespoon sugar 1 recipe Quick Salsa (recipe follows) EL SALVADOR’S 11/2 teaspoons table salt 1 recipe Curtido (recipe follows) NATIONAL DISH 1/2 head green cabbage, cored and sliced thin (6 cups) 1. Using marker, draw 4-inch circle in center of Pupusas are a staple in El Salvador, where they are 1 onion, sliced thin 1 side of 1‑quart or 1‑gallon zipper-lock bag. Cut eaten at home and in outposts called pupuserías. 1 large carrot, peeled and shredded open seams along both sides of bag, but leave bot‑ The savory stuffed cakes are enjoyed throughout 1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced tom seam intact so bag opens completely. the day; at breakfast, they are often served with 1 teaspoon dried oregano 2. Mix masa harina and salt together in medium a cup of caliente, a mixture of hot milk 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro bowl. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoon oil and mix and water thickened with melted chocolate. with rubber spatula until soft dough forms. Cover Whisk vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in large bowl dough and let rest for 20 minutes. until sugar is dissolved. Add cabbage, onion, carrot, 3. While dough rests, line rimmed baking sheet jalapeño, and oregano and toss to combine. Cover with parchment paper. Process cotija in food proces‑ and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours. sor until cotija is finely chopped and resembles wet Toss slaw, then drain. Return slaw to bowl and stir sand, about 20 seconds. Add Monterey Jack and in cilantro. process until mixture resembles wet oatmeal, about 30 seconds (it will not form cohesive mass). Remove STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND processor blade. Form cheese mixture into 8 balls, NUTRITION INFORMATION weighing about 11/4ounces each, and place balls on CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19

PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN MITCHELL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO STOCK MITCHELL/ALAMY JOHN PHOTOGRAPHY: 1 half of prepared sheet.

2019 annual 45 Why You Should Try Tilapia We were skeptics, too—until we did our homework. The facts: Most tilapia is responsibly raised and features moist, firm flesh with a clean, mild taste.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

ntil recently, tilapia was not whole side of the fish. Half the fillet is the a fish that ever came up in thinner belly portion, and the other half is our weekly discussion of the thicker portion beneath the dorsal fin. potential recipes to develop. The thick half was resting flat on the pan and WeU had a vague idea of it as being a browning nicely, but the thin half, tilted up second‑rate, predominantly farm-raised by the thick side, hardly made contact at all. fish with a muddy taste, so why even As I stared at four more fillets on my go there? Then we learned that tilapia is cutting board, an answer presented itself. A now the fourth‑most‑consumed seafood natural seam runs the length of each fillet, in the United States (after shrimp, tuna, separating the thin belly from the thicker and salmon) and decided that it was time portion. I ran my knife along the seams to to take a closer look. A tilapia fact-finding split the fillets. Then, still working in two mission ensued: We scoured the internet batches, I sautéed the four thick halves for information and started experiment‑ together before proceeding with the four ing in the test kitchen. Boy, were we ever thin halves. That did the trick: Freeing wrong about this fish. Tilapia has a whole the thin pieces gave them full contact with lot going for it, including a strong rec‑ the pan, allowing them to turn a deep ommendation from a leading consumer golden brown, and cooking the thick and watchdog group (see “Three Reasons to thin halves separately let me tailor the cook‑ Love Tilapia”). ing time to suit the thickness of each. The flesh of tilapia, a freshwater fish, is firm and moist, with a clean, mild—not at Reeling It In all muddy—flavor, sort of a cross between But the high heat I was using caused a trout and flounder. In fact, tilapia is so problem: As I browned the first batch of appealing that when we included it in a fillets, they shed a bit of the flour into blind tasting of five types of white fish, the skillet. By the time the second batch it landed in second place, only one point We cook tilapia over high heat to develop deep golden browning with crisp went in, those flour particles were starting shy of tying for the win (see “How Good spots. Our bright Cilantro Chimichurri complements the lean fish. to burn, producing scorched flavors and Is It? Tilapia versus Other White Fish”). smoking up the kitchen. I didn’t want to Given that stellar showing and the fact that tilapia is With that question answered, I was ready to cook have to wipe out a hot pan between batches, so I ran so reasonably priced—it runs only about $8.95 per the fish. I salted another batch of fillets and blotted a quick test without the flour dredge to see if it was pound—we saw no good reason not to cook with it. them dry with paper towels before giving each one a dip into all-purpose flour, a technique we commonly Dividing and Conquering use to accelerate browning. As I proceeded to cook TILAPIA, THICK AND THIN I dove right in, eager to file this magazine’s first tilapia the lightly coated fish in two batches in an oil‑slicked recipe. I knew that flavorful browning would enhance nonstick skillet over medium heat, I noticed yet the fillets’ delicate taste, so a simple stovetop sauté another likeable trait: Whereas most thin fish fil‑ seemed like the best way to go. Because it had been lets are fragile and demand a gentle touch, denser a while since we developed a recipe for relatively thin tilapia didn’t flake apart, so it was easy to maneuver white fish fillets, I wondered if I should apply lessons in the pan. we’ve learned from cooking salmon. These days we Unfortunately, moderate heat failed to brown usually brine or salt salmon before cooking; it seasons the fish in the few short minutes it took to reach the flesh and helps it retain moisture, which benefits 130 degrees, the doneness temperature we found even a fatty fish. Indeed, when I quickly sautéed both ideal for tilapia. In a subsequent test, I cranked the Tilapia is a small fish, so a fillet makes up one tilapia that I’d salted for 15 minutes and unsalted heat up to high and was pleased to find that the sturdy whole side of its body. The belly portion of the tilapia, the former was moister and better seasoned. tilapia could withstand this aggressive approach. fillet is thinner than the top portion, a disparity After just 2 to 3 minutes per side, some deep golden that leads to uneven cooking. Our solution: Using STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND browning developed. But it wasn’t uniform. the seam running down the center of each fillet NUTRITION INFORMATION Only half of each fillet was taking on color; the as a guide, cut the thin and thick portions apart CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 other half emerged from the pan pale as could be. and cook them separately.

That’s because tilapia are small, so a single fillet is a BURGOYNE JOHN ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 46 How Good Is It? Tilapia versus Other White Fish By the time we’d finished developing our tilapia recipe, we were converts: Its mild taste and moist, firm flesh are hard to beat. Even so, we were intrigued by a blind tasting the Washington Post staged in its offices a couple of years back comparing tilapia to seven other varieties of fish. The tasting panel included renowned D.C. chef Scott Drewno, Post food critic Tom Sietsema, and a fisheries expert, among others. Not only did tilapia come in second, but Chef Drewno, formerly a tilapia detractor, declared it his favorite. We decided to conduct our own blind tasting, comparing tilapia to four other common white fish: flounder, branzino, haddock, and snapper. The fish arrived ultrafresh from our seafood purveyor in a single delivery, and we prepared all the fillets according to our Sautéed Tilapia recipe, adjusting cooking times as necessary to ensure that all the fillets reached 130 degrees. Here again, the tilapia did not disappoint. With its “yummy,” “moist,” and “meaty, mild taste of luxury,” it earned a strong second place, missing a tie for first place (with haddock) by just one point.

2ND PLACE

HADDOCK TILAPIA BRANZINO RED SNAPPER FLOUNDER ($12.95/lb) ($8.95/lb) ($18.95/lb) ($25.95/lb) ($15.95/lb)

really necessary. It wasn’t: The high heat alone was occasionally to distribute oil, until undersides are CILANTRO CHIMICHURRI sufficient to get the fillets remarkably browned and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using thin spatula, SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES even lightly crisp in spots. flip fillets. Cook until second sides are golden brown The fish was top-notch with just a squeeze of and tilapia registers 130 to 135 degrees, 2 to 3 min‑ Briefly soaking the dried oregano in hot water and lemon, but I felt that a rich finishing touch would utes. Transfer tilapia to serving platter. vinegar before combining it with the remaining give it a little more oomph. I came up with a unique 3. Return skillet to high heat. When oil is just ingredients helps soften it and release its flavor. Top compound butter seasoned with savory miso, tart smoking, add thin halves of fillets and cook until Sautéed Tilapia with 1/4 cup of chimichurri before lemon, and oniony chives and an olive oil–based undersides are golden brown, about 1 minute. serving and pass the remaining chimichurri separately. chimichurri featuring fresh cilantro and parsley. Flip and cook until second sides are golden brown, Spooned onto the hot-from-the-pan tilapia, the about 1 minute. Transfer to platter and serve with 2 tablespoons hot water toppings added aromatic pops of flavor. lemon wedges. 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar At long last, here is a great recipe for tilapia. We’re 1 teaspoon dried oregano sorry we waited so long. CHIVE-LEMON MISO BUTTER 1/2 cup minced fresh parsley SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro SAUTÉED TILAPIA 3 garlic cloves, minced SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES We like the delicate flavor of white miso in this 1 teaspoon kosher salt recipe, but red miso can be substituted. Dot Sautéed 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes You can use fresh or frozen tilapia in this recipe (if Tilapia with miso butter before serving. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil frozen, thaw before cooking). There is no need to take the temperature of the thin halves of the fillets; 2 tablespoons white miso Combine hot water, vinegar, and oregano in they will be cooked through by the time they are 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest medium bowl; let stand for 5 minutes. Add parsley, golden brown. If desired, you can omit the lemon plus 2 teaspoons juice cilantro, garlic, salt, and pepper flakes and stir to wedges and serve the fish with Chive-Lemon Miso 1/8 teaspoon pepper combine. Whisk in oil until incorporated. Butter or Cilantro Chimichurri (recipes follow). Our 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened recipes for Sautéed Tilapia with Chive-Lemon Miso 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL Butter for Two and Sautéed Tilapia with Cilantro Find these sides in our archive: Toasted with Peas Chimichurri for Two are available to web subscribers Combine miso, lemon zest and juice, and pepper and Parmesan (May/June 2003) and Sautéed Swiss at CooksIllustrated.com/feb19. in small bowl. Add butter and stir until fully incor‑ Chard with Garlic (May/June 2015). porated. Stir in chives and set aside. 4 (5- to 6-ounce) skinless tilapia fillets 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Three Reasons to Love Tilapia Lemon wedges Tilapia had a bad reputation for muddy flavor, but new farming techniques have improved the quality of this inex‑ 1. Place tilapia on cutting board and sprinkle pensive freshwater fish. Here’s what you should know: both sides with salt. Let sit at room temperature for IT TASTES GREAT: Modern aquaculture systems 15 minutes. Pat tilapia dry with paper towels. Using produce meaty tilapia with a mild flavor. seam that runs down middle of fillet as guide, cut IT’S NUTRITIOUS: Tilapia fillets are low in fat and high each fillet in half lengthwise to create 1 thick half in protein. and 1 thin half. IT’S SUSTAINABLE: The sustainable seafood adviser 2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch lists tilapia heat until just smoking. Add thick halves of fillets as a Best Choice.

PHOTOGRAPHY: © GETTY/PAULRDUNN © PHOTOGRAPHY: to skillet. Cook, tilting and gently shaking skillet

2019 annual 47 A New Way to Steam Fish Classic Chinese and French methods produce moist, flavorful steamed fish. We used the best of both and came up with an entirely new approach that’s easy and equally impressive.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

f you’re not steaming fish, you The presentation wasn’t great either: The should be. It’s a delicate method for now‑soggy aromatics clung to the top of cooking a delicate protein that leads the fish. to supremely moist, tender results. It’sI fast enough to do on a weeknight but Sling It delivers company-worthy elegance. And I had an idea for keeping the fillets intact when it’s done well, there’s a real flavor during transfer: Treat them like bar cookies benefit—if you know how to season and and cook them on top of a foil sling. That dress the fish. way, I could gently lift all the fillets out of Both Chinese and French cuisines have the pan at once and deposit them onto the classic approaches to steaming. Cantonese serving platter with minimal disturbance. cooks steam fish whole (typically sprinkled I folded an 18 by 12-inch piece of foil in with aromatics such as garlic, ginger, and half lengthwise to create a sling, sprayed it scallions) in a bamboo steamer set in a wok lightly with vegetable oil spray to prevent filled with a few inches of boiling water. sticking, laid the sling in the pan, and Once cooked, the fish is transferred to a placed the fillets on top. platter, doused with soy sauce and maybe I covered the pan with foil and placed it a splash of rice wine, and garnished with in the oven, but this time I made sure to fresh scallions. The final flourish is a take the fish out earlier, when it reached drizzle of hot oil that sizzles as it hits the 125 degrees, trusting that the hot oil and fish, releasing a cloud of delicate aromas carryover cooking would help it reach its into the air. target temperature. I then grasped each The French technique, called en papillote end of the foil sling and transferred the (“in paper”), calls for enclosing individual delicate fillets to the platter, carefully slid‑ fillets in parchment or foil envelopes with ing the foil out from under them so that vegetables, perhaps a bit of fat, and a splash I didn’t dislodge a single flake. I poured of wine or broth and then baking the pack‑ We steam the fish in a mixture of soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil, the juices from the pan over and around ets in the oven. Each diner then gets their which then becomes the sauce. Scallions and cilantro add freshness. the fish, topped it with scallions, and own parcel of fish, vegetables, and steaming drizzled it with the hot oil. cooking liquid to open at the table. Instead, I decided to steam all the fillets together Now the fillets were perfectly moist, and the There’s a lot to love about both approaches, but in a single makeshift packet: a foil-covered metal cooking-liquid-turned-sauce balanced the delicately I’ve long wanted a mash-up that offers what I con‑ baking pan. I arranged four skinless cod fillets in clean flavors of the fish. Seasoning the cooking sider to be the best of each: the bold, fresh flavors the pan and topped them with some sliced garlic liquid with a little sugar, salt, and white pepper and hot oil drizzle of the Chinese method and the and neatly julienned scallions and ginger. Next (more floral and delicate than black pepper) made convenient oven cooking and flavorful fish jus of I pondered the cooking liquid. Since the fillets those flavors pop even more, but it was a subtle the French method. Drawing inspiration from both would be sitting in the liquid rather than above it tweak I made to the aromatics that really gave the and using easy-to-find fillets would lead to my ideal in a steamer, it made sense to follow the French sauce depth: Rather than place the garlic, ginger, steamed fish. method and use something more flavorful than and scallions on top of the fish, where they turned plain water. As a starting point, I whisked together sadly limp, I laid them in the baking pan under‑ Full Steam Ahead a few tablespoons of soy sauce, some rice wine, and neath the foil sling so that they could infuse the Though the steaming would take place in the a bit of nutty toasted sesame oil; poured it around cooking liquid and wouldn’t cling to the cooked oven, crimping the fillets in individual packets was the fillets; and then covered the pan tightly with fillets. Once the fillets were safely deposited on the a labor of love that I’d save for another time—not foil. After about 15 minutes in a 450-degree oven, serving platter, I strained the spent aromatics and to mention the fact that packets opened at the table the fillets hit their target doneness temperature of drizzled the flavorful liquid over the fish. would make it difficult to drizzle the cooked fillets 135 degrees. I scattered the fresh scallions over the fillets with the hot oil. I worked carefully to maneuver the tidy fillets and was about to pour the oil over the fish when onto the serving platter, but they flaked apart any‑ I realized that I could add even more sweet-spicy STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND way. Then, when I finished them with sliced scallions fragrance and texture to the dish by adding slivers NUTRITION INFORMATION and a splash of hot oil (which sent up an enticing of ginger to the hot oil, where they would turn CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 aroma), the combined effect of carryover cook‑ aromatic, golden, and crisp. Paired with the sauce,

ing and the oil caused them to overcook slightly. this would make a fragrant dressing for the steamed TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 48 rice I planned to serve on the side. Scattering cilan‑ A Flavorful Steam Bath for Fish tro sprigs over the top made my quick, new‑school Instead of steaming fish over water, Chinese-style, or enclosed in parchment with wine, French-style, we interpretation of steamed fish feel as elegant as it came up with an approach that borrows from both traditions: oven-steaming cod fillets in a foil-covered bak‑ was efficient. ing pan. The fish sits in a shallow pool of potent soy-based liquid that gets infused with aromatics and fish jus; when it’s cooked, we strain the fragrant cooking liquid and use it as a sauce for the fish. (It also tastes great OVEN-STEAMED FISH WITH drizzled over steamed rice.) SCALLIONS AND GINGER FOIL SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR Goes over pan to trap steam Haddock, red snapper, halibut, and sea bass can FISH FILLETS be substituted for the cod as long as the fillets are Release flavorful fish jus that about 1 inch thick. If the fillets are uneven, fold the adds body to sauce thinner ends under when placing the fillets in the FOIL SLING pan. If using a glass baking dish, add 5 minutes to Helps remove fillets from the cooking time. To ensure that the fish doesn’t pan and prevents aromatics overcook, remove it from the oven when it registers from clinging to them 125 to 130 degrees; it will continue to cook as it AROMATICS is plated. Serve with steamed rice and vegetables. Infuse steaming liquid with flavor Our recipe for Oven-Steamed Fish with Scallions and then get strained out and Ginger for Two is available to web subscribers FLAVORFUL STEAMING at CooksIllustrated.com/aug19. LIQUID Picks up more flavor from fish and aromatics 8 scallions, trimmed, divided 1 (3-inch) piece ginger, peeled, divided BAKING PAN 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin Allows you to cook 4 fillets at a time 4 (6-ounce) skinless cod fillets, about 1 inch thick 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry lightly with vegetable oil spray. Place sling in pan shimmering. Reduce heat to low, add reserved 11/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil lengthwise, with extra foil hanging over ends of ginger, and cook, stirring, until ginger begins to 11/2 teaspoons sugar pan. Arrange cod on sling. If fillets vary in thick‑ brown and crisp, 20 to 30 seconds. Drizzle oil and 1/4 teaspoon table salt ness, place thinner fillets in middle and thicker ginger over cod (oil will crackle). Top with cilantro 1/4 teaspoon white pepper fillets at ends. and serve. 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3. Whisk soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, sugar, 1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves and thin stems salt, and white pepper in small bowl until combined. Pour around cod. Cover pan tightly with foil and Finish with a Sizzle 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat bake until fish registers 125 to 130 degrees, 12 to We transfer the fish to a platter when it’s just oven to 450 degrees. Chop 6 scallions coarse and 14 minutes. shy of its target temperature of 135 degrees and spread evenly in 13 by 9-inch baking pan. Slice 4. Grasping sling at both ends, carefully transfer then pour hot ginger-infused oil over it. The oil remaining 2 scallions thin on bias and set aside. sling and cod to deep platter. Place spatula at 1 end finishes cooking the fish, releasing fragrant aromas Chop 2 inches ginger coarse and spread in pan with of fillets to hold in place and carefully slide out sling and adding some richness to this mostly lean dish. chopped scallions. Slice remaining 1 inch ginger from under cod. Strain cooking liquid through into matchsticks and set aside. Sprinkle garlic over fine‑mesh strainer set over bowl, pressing on solids scallions and ginger in pan. to extract liquid; discard solids. Pour strained liquid 2. Fold 18 by 12-inch piece of aluminum foil over cod. Sprinkle reserved scallions over cod. Heat lengthwise to create 18 by 6-inch sling and spray vegetable oil in small skillet over high heat until

EASY TRANSFER Steaming the fillets on top of an aluminum foil sling allows us to easily transfer them from the baking pan to the serving platter without breaking them.

1. Grasping both ends, care‑ fully lift sling so that fillets slide to center and are cradled in middle. Place sling gently on serving platter. RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL 2. Place spatula at 1 end Find these sides in our archive: Chinese Restaurant– of fillets to hold in place. Style Rice (March/April 2018), Sautéed Baby Bok Choy Carefully slide out sling from (March/April 2017), and Sautéed Snow Peas with underneath fish. Ginger, Garlic, and Scallion (March/April 2011). ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION:

2019 annual 49 New England Cod and Potato Cakes These seaside cakes can easily turn out bland and mushy. We fixed that while staying true to their humble roots.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

he frugality of New Englanders By this point the potatoes were cool is evident in a number of enough to handle, so I peeled them and tried‑and-true regional dishes. passed them through a potato ricer. Next, One of my favorite examples I added the contents of the skillet—but‑ Tis fish and potato cakes: In days gone ter, aromatics, and fish—along with sliced by, leftover cooked fish scraps didn’t scallion greens to the potatoes and gently go to waste. Instead, the fish (usually stirred. As my spoon moved through the cod, either fresh or salted) was flaked potatoes and fish, the cod separated into and folded into potatoes that had been large flakes and a cohesive mixture formed. mashed with milk and butter; the mixture was seasoned with aromatics and herbs Cake Boss (and sometimes bound with an egg) Shaping, coating, and frying the cakes before being shaped into cakes. The cakes turned out to be a cinch. The cakes had to were then coated in bread crumbs and be fried in a single batch because any bread pan-fried to develop crispy, golden exte‑ crumbs that sloughed off into the oil would riors that encased creamy interiors. burn during the second round. Using a Today, the dish is a regional classic, gen‑ 1/3-cup dry measuring cup, I shaped them erally made with fresh fish and served with into eight 1-inch-thick disks, which would lemon wedges and tartar sauce in roadside fit snugly in a 12-inch skillet. I pressed the diners from all the way to tops and bottoms (the parts that would the Maritimes. touch the oil) in panko bread crumbs that Modern cod and potato cakes are still I had crushed to a fine consistency to help economical—a mere pound of fish can them stick and then fried the cakes on both be stretched with potatoes to serve four sides in 1/2 cup of hot oil. people. That said, the cakes should still The results were mixed: Gloriously taste more like fish than potato. Exemplary crispy crusts formed on the cakes’ exteriors, versions are also moist and delicate on the We lightly crush panko bread crumbs to create a fine coating that sticks to but their interiors, though not at all gluey, inside but not so fragile that they fall apart the cakes and fries up into a crispy, golden crust. were disappointing flavorwise. With my easily during shaping, frying, or eating. 1:1 potato-to-fish ratio, the russets had Unfortunately, none of the recipes I tested pro‑ A dry cooking method for the potatoes was defi‑ obscured the subtle cod. But when I halved the duced ideal cakes. The biggest issue I encountered nitely in order, and since I wanted the cakes to come amount of potato to balance the flavors, there was no was a mushy, wet interior caused by boiling the together quickly, I turned to the microwave. We have potatoes and mashing them with lots of milk and found that fully cooking russets in the microwave can butter. There was simply too much moisture in the make them gluey and unsuitable for eating whole as FLIPPING THE CAKES spuds, which led to sodden cakes. But the potatoes baked potatoes, but I hoped that wouldn’t matter weren’t the only culprit: The fish mattered, too. when the potatoes were mashed and combined with Most recipes call for the fillets in milk or fish. I zapped the spuds for about 10 minutes and water, which—as with the potatoes—tends to bring then split them open to cool while I cooked the cod. extra liquid along for the ride. I knew that poaching the fish didn’t make sense: It would not only add surface moisture but also pull A Dry Heat flavor out of the fillets and into the poaching liquid. To figure out a way around this, I started from I would ultimately be frying the cakes, so why not scratch. To make eight cakes, I began with 1 pound precook the fish in the same skillet? I sizzled some of cod and 1 pound of potatoes (floury russets are aromatics—minced garlic, fresh thyme, and minced the potato of choice here since they have plenty of scallions—in a couple of knobs of butter, cut the fish starch to help bind the cakes). into large pieces to help it cook quickly, and slipped the pieces into the skillet. Keeping the fish pieces The best way to gently flip the Cod and Potato STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND on the larger side meant that they would break into Cakes is to use two utensils. Two fish spatulas are NUTRITION INFORMATION sizable flakes as they were combined with the pota‑ ideal, but you can also use two traditional metal CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 toes. I let the cod cook gently for about 5 minutes, or silicone spatulas.

flipping it midway through cooking. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 50 For Great Fish Cakes, THE COD SQUAD Break with Tradition Almost all the cod and potato cake recipes we tried called for using wet cooking techniques for the main ingredients, which resulted in mushy, sodden cakes. Our cooking methods produce cakes that are cohesive and tender but never soggy.

COD HAKE HADDOCK POLLOCK With its meaty white flesh, cod has long been New Englanders’ primary choice for making fish cakes. But cod has lots of cousins, among them hake, haddock, and pollock, so consider branching out. All have a mild flavor and a medium-firm, flaky texture and are therefore fine substitutes for cod. What’s more, cod’s relatives also tend to be less expensive than cod, starting at about $10 per pound versus $16 per pound.

COD AND POTATO CAKES combine (cod will break up). Add egg and gently stir SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 11/4 HOURS to combine. Spray large plate and 1/3-cup dry measur‑ MICROWAVE THE SPUD ing cup with vegetable oil spray. Scoop level amount Instead of boiling the potato, which introduces This recipe will work with other flaky white fish of mixture and drop onto prepared plate. Repeat with extra moisture to the dish, we simply nuke it. such as haddock, pollock, or hake. If buying a remaining mixture to make 8 mounds. Distribute any skin-on fillet, purchase 11/4 pounds of fish to yield remaining mixture evenly among mounds. Freeze for 1 pound after skinning. Buy one 12-ounce potato, 15 minutes. (Alternatively, plate can be wrapped in if possible. If a large potato is unavailable, buy plastic wrap and refrigerated for at least 1 hour or up two potatoes totaling 12 to 16 ounces (you’ll have to 24 hours.) some left over after mashing). The cakes will be 4. Place panko in large zipper-lock bag and easiest to flip using a pair of fish spatulas. Serve lightly crush with rolling pin. Transfer to shallow with lemon wedges and/or Quick Tartar Sauce dish. Carefully pat each mound into 21/2-inch-wide, (recipe follows). 1-inch-thick disk. Coat top and bottom of each disk with panko, pressing gently to adhere. Return cakes 1 large russet potato (12 ounces), unpeeled to plate. SAUTÉ THE FISH 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 5. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over Rather than poach the fish, we sauté it, which 4 scallions, white and light green parts minced, medium-high heat until shimmering. Place cakes in drives off moisture and concentrates flavor. dark green parts sliced thin skillet and cook, without moving them, until first 2 garlic cloves, minced side is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Carefully flip 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme cakes and cook until second side is golden brown, longer enough starch to hold the cakes together. At 1 teaspoon table salt about 4 minutes. Transfer cakes to paper towel–lined 3 parts potato to 4 parts fish, the cakes were cohesive, 1/4 teaspoon pepper plate and let drain for 1 minute. Season with salt to if a bit fragile, but the cod flavor was ideal, so that’s 1 (1-pound) skinless cod fillet, cut into 2-inch taste, and serve. where I landed. pieces Refrigerating the delicate cakes firmed them 1 large egg, lightly beaten QUICK TARTAR SAUCE up, but it took a fair amount of time. To expedite 3/4 cup panko bread crumbs SERVES 12 (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP) TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES the process, I put the cakes in the freezer, where 1/2 cup vegetable oil, for frying they set in just 15 minutes. Unfortunately, as they Be sure to rinse the . warmed through in the skillet, the cakes softened, 1. Using paring knife, poke potato 8 times over which made them difficult to flip without breaking entire surface. Place in bowl, cover, and microwave 3/4 cup mayonnaise apart. Some recipes solve this problem with flour or until knife glides easily through flesh and potato 3 tablespoons minced cornichons plus bread crumbs, but those starches—like an excess of yields to gentle pressure, 10 to 15 minutes, flipping 1 tablespoon brine potato—muted the fish flavor dramatically. Happily, potato after 7 minutes. Halve lengthwise and let 1 scallion, minced because I had used dry precooking methods for cool, cut side up, for 10 minutes. 1 small shallot, minced the fish and potato, I found that all it took to bind 2. While potato cools, melt butter in 12-inch 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and minced my cakes was a single beaten egg. The egg had just nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add minced 1/2 teaspoon pepper enough protein to help the cakes firm up as they scallions, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper and cook cooked. After their stint in the freezer, these cakes until softened, about 2 minutes. Add cod and cook Combine all ingredients in small bowl. Cover were easy to handle in the pan and developed crispy, until thickest pieces of cod just begin to flake, 5 to with plastic wrap and refrigerate until flavors meld, golden exteriors. Their interiors boasted substantial 7 minutes, flipping cod halfway through cooking. about 15 minutes. flakes of fish and just the right amount of creamy, Set aside. beautifully seasoned potato. 3. Peel potato and pass through potato ricer or RECIPES TO MAKE IT A MEAL At last, I had found the right balance of flavor and mash with potato masher. Measure 3/4 cup very firmly Find these sides in our archive: Sautéed Peas with Shallot and Mint (November/December 2009) and New England thrift to create a cod and potato cake packed potato and transfer to bowl. Fluff with fork. New England Baked Beans (January/February 2017). that anyone would enjoy. Add cod mixture and sliced scallions and gently stir to

2019 annual 51 Vietnamese Summer Rolls The best summer roll is a fresh summer roll, and the freshest summer roll is one you make yourself. Here’s how.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

Vietnamese summer roll is the epit‑ ome of cool elegance: an exquisitely balanced salad of fragrant herbs, crisp lettuce, springy noodles, and a mod‑ Aest amount of protein neatly bundled into a stretchy, translucent rice paper wrapper. The eat‑ ing experience, on the other hand, is gloriously unrefined. You grab a roll and dunk one end into a creamy peanut-hoisin sauce or a thinner, tangier mixture of fish sauce and lime juice or vinegar. Then you take a bite, and the flavors and tex‑ tures burst across your palate. Dunk, bite, dunk, bite . . . Summer rolls are so light and refreshing that I can contentedly carry on this way for quite a while. But a word of caution: A summer roll is best eaten within moments of being made, before the wrapper dries out and becomes unpleasantly chewy or the moist fillings weaken it and cause the roll to rupture.

Easy-Cook Proteins You can roll almost anything in a rice paper wrapper, but the fillings of a traditional Vietnamese summer roll are quite specific: rice vermicelli, boiled and rinsed to bouncy perfection; crisp lettuce; lots of fresh, leafy herbs; shrimp; and pork. I wanted my Arranging the shrimp so that they are at the surface of the roll makes for an elegant presentation, and it’s summer rolls to be as authentic as possible, so for the surprisingly easy to do. Our tips on page 14 will show you how. protein component, I knew I would need to use both shrimp and pork and cook them just right. took only about 10 minutes of simmering to cook I appreciate that kind of efficiency; after all, the Pork belly is the preferred cut for use in summer through and turn tender. I pulled them out of the water’s already hot, and it’s been seasoned by rolls, so I started there. Following tradition, I sim‑ water to cool and then sliced them thin. the pork and with salt. I brought the water to a mered the meat in salted water until tender and then Traditionally, the shrimp are poached in the boil, added a couple of handfuls of medium-large sliced it thin. The simplicity of the cooking method water that’s left over from cooking the pork. shrimp, covered the pot, and removed it from the makes sense here: Summer rolls are all about balance, and though I love both grilled and roasted pork belly, their strong flavors would overwhelm those Anatomy of a SHRIMP of the more delicate fillings in the roll. Great Summer Roll Color, delicate seafood flavor, tender yet But it took a good 40 minutes of simmering for Each component of a summer snappy texture the pork belly to become tender, so I was relieved roll offers subtle yet important to learn that pork shoulder is also sometimes used. flavors and textures that WRAPPER It would require less cooking time, and like pork are complemented by bold Clean taste, lightly belly, it is a meaty-tasting cut that retains good flavor dipping sauces. chewy texture after simmering. I opted for boneless country-style NOODLES ribs, which are cut from the shoulder and sold in LETTUCE Clean backdrop for the shape of a stick of butter—perfect for slicing Crispness, moisture, other flavors; compress and placing into summer rolls. Two 5-ounce ribs structure during rolling but expand to create a taut roll PORK STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Meaty substance, NUTRITION INFORMATION mild savoriness HERBS CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 Fresh, heady fragrance PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 52 heat. Using residual rather than direct heat reduced HERBS the risk of overcooking and produced plump and juicy shrimp. After just 3 minutes in the water, the LETTUCE shrimp were opaque, so I rinsed them in cold water to cool them down quickly, sliced them lengthwise, NOODLES and placed them next to the pork on a plate. On to the noodles. PORK SHRIMP Building Structure SCALLIONS The frugal side of me was tempted to use the cook‑ DIPPING WATER ing water a third time to boil the noodles. But PLATTER WITH because the noodles are meant to provide a neutral PLASTIC WRAP background for the other ingredients, I decided COVER against it. I boiled some fresh water and added a block of dried rice vermicelli. Three minutes later, I drained the noodles, rinsed them with cool water to halt the cooking and remove the sticky surface starch, and spread them on a plate to dry just a bit. DRY HYDRATED Summer rolls are sometimes called “salad rolls,” WRAPPERS WRAPPERS and rightly so. The lettuce and herbs contribute appealing crunch, moisture, and freshness. I quickly DISH learned that lettuces such as stiff-leafed iceberg and TOWELS wide-ribbed romaine were not very cooperative when it came to rolling, so I opted for green leaf Ready to Roll lettuce, which was more pliable. We like to moisten two wrappers at a time and place them on the counter below the other components, organized Here’s the most important thing to know about from left to right. It’s essential to have all your ingredients prepped and your equipment ready to go before you start the herbs: You’re going to use loads of them. the assembly process. In Vietnam, most meals are accompanied by a large plate of leafy herbs and lettuce that diners are encouraged to add liberally to their plates or wrapper. Spread some noodles over the lettuce (I like To preserve the rolls’ texture, transfer them to bowls. Some herbs that are popular in Vietnamese to use 1/3 cup per roll), and then top them with sliced a platter, not touching each other, and cover them cuisine aren’t widely available in the United States, scallions. Place two slices of pork over the scallions with plastic wrap. The rolls can also be constructed but mint, cilantro, and Thai basil are. I went with and 1/4 cup of herb mix on top of that. family style; place all the fixings and a few bowls of 1 cup of each. Rather than add each herb to the rolls At this point, the wrapper will be fully hydrated water in the middle of the table and let each diner roll individually, I tore them all into 1-inch pieces and and flexible and should feel tacky (which will help it their own. But either way, you’ll need a sauce or two. combined them in a bowl. When the time came, I’d stick to itself when rolled). Lift the bottom edge of Just as you would never eat a salad without simply add a handful of the mix to each roll. I also the wrapper up and over the herbs and roll snugly dressing, a summer roll without a dipping sauce is sliced some scallions thin so I could sprinkle them in. but gently to enclose the filling in a tube. Then fold unthinkable: A peanut-based hoisin sauce and tangy, They’re not as charming as the Chinese chives that each side in to enclose the ends. Lastly, place three savory nuóc,, cham�� are both easy to mix up and are poke out of the summer rolls you see in Vietnam shrimp halves, pink side down for maximum visual perfect accompaniments to cool, mild summer rolls. or in the homes of cooks with access to great Asian appeal, on the remaining section of the wrapper I like to alternate between the two as I eat, switch‑ markets, but they’d add comparable freshness. and roll the wrapper up the rest of the way to form ing after every bite. After all, summer rolls may be a neat cylinder. elegant, but eating them doesn’t have to be. Wrapping Up Now I was ready for the wrappers themselves. In their dried state, the thin rice flour disks are opaque The Importance of Proper Hydration and , with one smooth side and one side pat‑ Water Temperature: After dunking wrappers into hot, warm, and cold water, we found that the hotter the terned by the bamboo mat the wrapper is dried on. water, the faster the wrapper hydrated and turned sodden and sticky. Cold water moistens the wrapper After a dip in water, however, the wrappers become more slowly, which gives soft, pliable, and translucent. you more time to work. But how long was I supposed to dip them, and in what temperature water? The information Dipping Time: Soaking I found in recipes was all over the place. After much the wrappers for too long testing, I landed on dunking the wrapper briefly in causes them to become cold water before transferring it—still stiff—to the oversaturated, so a 2-second counter, where it continued to soften as I piled on dip is all that’s needed. The the fillings. wrapper will continue to soften as you work; once Time to Get Rolling you add the fillings, it will be GOOD BAD Constructing the perfect summer roll is an acquired stretchy enough to roll but A quick dip in cold water yields a stiff yet A longer or hotter soak yields a skill. First, fold a lettuce leaf (remove the rib if it’s not so fragile that it tears. pliable wrapper that softens as you roll. sodden, fragile wrapper.

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: large) and place it on the lower third of the moistened

2019 annual 53 VIETNAMESE SUMMER ROLLS (GOỈ CUON)̂́ SERVES 4 1. FOR THE PEANUT-HOISIN SAUCE: TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board using flat side of chef’s knife), mash Thai chile, garlic, and If desired, omit the pork, double the amount of salt to fine paste. Transfer to medium bowl. Add shrimp (use the same timing and amounts of water water, peanut butter, hoisin, tomato paste, and and salt), and place three shrimp halves on top of vinegar and whisk until smooth. the scallions. If Thai basil is unavailable, increase 2. FOR THE SUMMER ROLLS: Bring the mint and cilantro to 11/2 cups each. A wooden 2 quarts water to boil in medium saucepan. Stir surface will draw moisture away from the wrappers, in noodles. Cook until noodles are tender but not so assemble the rolls directly on your counter or mushy, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain noodles and rinse with on a plastic cutting board. If part of the wrapper cold water until cool. Drain noodles again, then starts to dry out while you are forming the rolls, spread on large plate to dry. moisten it with your dampened fingers. One serv‑ 3. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in now-empty ing (three rolls) makes a light meal, but these rolls saucepan. Add pork and salt. Reduce heat, cover, VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE can also be halved crosswise using a sharp, wet and simmer until thickest part of pork registers (NUỚ̛C CHAM) knife and served as an appetizer. These rolls are best 150 degrees, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer pork to cut‑ SERVES 4 (MAKES 1 CUP) served immediately. If you like, serve Vietnamese ting board, reserving water. TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES Dipping Sauce (Nuóc,, Cham)�� along with the 4. Return water to boil. Add shrimp and cover. Let Peanut-Hoisin Sauce. stand off heat until shrimp are opaque throughout, Hot water helps the sugar dissolve into the sauce. about 3 minutes. Drain shrimp and rinse with cold Peanut-Hoisin Sauce water until cool. Transfer to cutting board. Pat shrimp 3 tablespoons sugar, divided 1 Thai chile, stemmed and sliced thin dry and halve lengthwise. Transfer to second plate. 1 small Thai chile, stemmed and minced 1 garlic clove, minced 5. When pork is cool enough to handle, cut each 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon kosher salt rib crosswise into 2-inch lengths. Slice each 2-inch 2/3 cup hot water 2/3 cup water piece lengthwise 1/8 inch thick (you should have at 5 tablespoons fish sauce 1/3 cup creamy peanut butter least 24 slices) and transfer to plate with shrimp. Tear 1/4 cup lime juice (2 limes) 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce mint, cilantro, and Thai basil into 1-inch pieces and 2 tablespoons tomato paste combine in bowl. Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar 6. Fill large bowl with cold water. Submerge using flat side of chef ’s knife), mash 1 tablespoon 1 wrapper in water until wet on both sides, no longer sugar, Thai chile, and garlic to fine paste. Transfer Summer Rolls than 2 seconds. Shake gently over bowl to remove to medium bowl and add hot water and remaining 6 ounces rice vermicelli excess water, then lay wrapper flat on counter (wrap‑ 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. 10 ounces boneless country-style pork ribs, per will be fairly stiff but will continue to soften as Stir in fish sauce and lime juice. trimmed you assemble roll). Repeat with second wrapper and 2 teaspoons kosher salt place next to first wrapper. Fold 1 lettuce leaf and 18 medium-large shrimp (31 to 40 per pound), place on lower third of first wrapper, leaving about section of wrapper. Continue to roll until filling is peeled, deveined, and tails removed 1/2‑inch margin on each side. Spread 1/3 cup noodles completely enclosed in neat cylinder. Transfer roll 1 cup fresh mint leaves on top of lettuce, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon scal‑ to serving platter, shrimp side up, and cover with 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves and thin stems lions. Top scallions with 2 slices pork. Spread 1/4 cup plastic wrap. Repeat with second moistened wrapper. 1 cup Thai basil leaves herb mixture over pork. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling, keeping 12 (81/2-inch) round rice paper wrappers 7. Bring lower edge of wrapper up and over herbs. completed rolls covered with plastic. Uncover and 12 leaves red or green leaf lettuce, Roll snugly but gently until long sides of greens and serve with sauce. (Leftovers can be wrapped tightly thick ribs removed noodles are enclosed. Fold in sides to enclose ends. and refrigerated for up to 24 hours, but wrappers will 2 scallions, sliced thin on bias Arrange 3 shrimp halves, cut side up, on remaining become chewier and may break in places.)

STEP BY STEP HOW TO ROLL A SUMMER ROLL A wooden surface will draw moisture away from the rice paper wrapper, so work directly on the counter or on a plastic cutting board.

1. Bring lower edge of wrapper 2. Roll snugly but gently until 3. Fold in sides to enclose ends. 4. Arrange 3 shrimp halves, cut 5. Continue to roll until filling up and over herbs. greens and noodles are side up, on remaining wrapper. is completely enclosed in neat enclosed. cylinder.

cook’s illustrated 54 Spiced Roasted Chickpeas To turn a can of chickpeas into a crunchy, salty snack, start with a burst of heat.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

oasted, salted chickpeas have long been even layer. Microwave until exteriors of chickpeas popular in the Middle East. In 1875 are dry and many have split slightly at seams, 8 to they were so well‑liked that Armenian 12 minutes. composer Dikran Tchouhadjian named 2. Transfer chickpeas to 13 by 9-inch metal bak‑ Rhis operetta after a peddler of the snack: Leblebici ing pan. Add oil and stir until evenly coated. Using Horhor Aga (Master Hor-Hor, the Chickpea spatula, spread chickpeas into single layer. Transfer Vendor). Roasted chickpeas have become trendy to oven and roast for 30 minutes. While chickpeas in the United States, too. It’s easy to see why: They are roasting, combine paprika, coriander, turmeric, boast the crunch and saltiness of chips and , , cumin, sugar, salt, and cayenne in small bowl. but they’re protein-packed and lighter on oil. 3. Stir chickpeas and crowd toward center of pan, Recipes are straightforward: Just drain canned avoiding edges of pan as much as possible. Continue chickpeas and oven-roast (temperatures and times to roast until chickpeas appear dry, slightly shriveled, vary widely) until crisp. Some add oil from the get‑go, and deep golden brown, 20 to 40 minutes longer. others wait. Ditto for spices, salt, and sugar. (To test for doneness, remove a few paler chickpeas I found that the oil (11/2 tablespoons per can of and let cool briefly before tasting; if interiors are soft, beans) needed to go on early to help crisp the chick‑ return to oven for 5 minutes before testing again.) peas, lest they simply dry out. Spices, on the other 4. Transfer chickpeas to large bowl. Toss with hand, burned and turned bitter when added at the spice mixture to coat. Season with salt to taste. Let start. Fortunately, residual heat in the chickpeas was cool completely before serving, about 30 minutes. sufficient to bloom the spices. (Chickpeas can be stored in airtight container for up Choosing an oven temperature was more challeng‑ to 1 week.) ing. At high temperatures, the chickpeas split slightly at their seams, creating tiny pathways for oil to enter. Roasted chickpeas are great to nibble with cocktails, BARBECUE-SPICED ROASTED CHICKPEAS As the beans “fried,” they expanded like popcorn, sprinkle on salads, or pack in a lunchbox. turning from creamy and dense to light and crisp. Omit allspice and cumin. Substitute 1 tablespoon But by the time they were crisp, many had burned. A INDIAN-SPICED ROASTED CHICKPEAS smoked paprika for paprika, garlic powder for corian‑ low-and-slow approach had the opposite effect: The SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1⅔ CUPS) der, and onion powder for turmeric. Increase sugar chickpeas simply shrank and turned hard, becoming TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 30 MINUTES COOLING to 11/2 teaspoons. more like unpopped popcorn kernels. If the beans needed a burst of heat to turn crisp This recipe calls for a metal baking pan; using glass and airy but were prone to burning, the solution was or ceramic will result in unevenly cooked chickpeas. CORRAL YOUR CHICKPEAS obvious: Start high and finish low. Indeed, 30 minutes The chickpeas make a great snack when dusted with We found that the chickpeas at the edges of a at 500 degrees followed by 30 minutes at 400 degrees spices, but you can also season them simply with rimmed baking sheet tended to scorch toward the produced a light, crunchy snack. But the results varied salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper and use them end of the roasting time. We could prevent this depending on the oven I used. Highly insulated ovens as a salad garnish. Our recipe for Spanish-Spiced with frequent stirring, but that let heat escape from held on to lots of heat even after the temperature was Roasted Chickpeas is available to web subscribers at the oven, so the chickpeas took longer to finish. reduced, scorching the beans, whereas poorly insu‑ CooksIllustrated.com/feb19. Instead, we switched to a 13 by 9-inch metal lated ovens required longer cooking times. baking pan: Its high sides deflect some Could I transfer the high-heat stage to the micro‑ 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas of the oven’s heat. We also wave? Yes. After a 10-minute zap, most of the beans 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil crowd the chickpeas had split. Tossed with oil and roasted for an hour 2 teaspoons paprika toward the center at 350 degrees, they were as good as any I’d made 1 teaspoon ground coriander of the pan and away using just the oven. The beans at the edges of the pan 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric from the hotter sides. still sometimes burned, so I pushed them all toward 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice SCORCH-PROOF the center after a midpoint stir (see “Corral Your 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin Mounding the chickpeas Chickpeas”). Now every last chickpea was perfect. 1/2 teaspoon sugar in the middle of the pan Finally, the spices. Chickpeas are used throughout 3/8 teaspoon kosher salt shields them from burning. India, so a version with curry spices seemed appro‑ 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper priate. Another, seasoned with smoked paprika and cayenne, was reminiscent of the Spanish bar snacks 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND I love. I also came up with a chickpea version of oven to 350 degrees. Place chickpeas in colander and NUTRITION INFORMATION barbecue potato chips, just to show that the sky’s let drain for 10 minutes. Line large plate with double CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: the limit with this delicious—and virtuous—recipe. layer of paper towels. Spread chickpeas over plate in

2019 annual 55 Whipped Feta Dip Have 15 minutes? This tangy comes together with the push of a button.

j BY SANDRA WU k

here’s nothing wrong with serving feta this good, why wait to include this dip in a meze on a cheese plate, but if you have a spread? I’ll be whipping it up for a snack any old time. few minutes to spare, I suggest trans‑ forming it into the traditional Greek dip WHIPPED FETA DIP Ttyrosalata. It’s practically effortless: Just process SERVES 8 TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES the cheese with extra-virgin olive oil until it turns smooth, and then season it with additions such as Cow’s-milk feta makes a firmer dip that holds up well lemon juice, garlic, and fresh herbs. As part of a at room temperature; do not substitute sheep’s‑milk meze spread (small plates served with drinks) with feta, which is softer. Because feta is quite salty, avoid crudités or , the creamy, milky, salty dip is a serving this dip with salted chips; crudités and pita real standout. bread make great accompaniments. Feta varies widely depending on the type of milk it is made from—cow’s, sheep’s, goat’s, or some 11/2 teaspoons lemon juice combination thereof. I defaulted to our favorite 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic high-quality cheese made from sheep’s milk. Its rich‑ 8 ounces cow’s-milk feta cheese ness and distinct tang are not only authentic (most 3 tablespoons milk Greek fetas are made from sheep’s milk) but also the 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin test kitchen’s preferred feta profile. olive oil, divided But something strange happened when I buzzed 2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano together my first batch. The consistency was oddly loose—more like yogurt than dip—even though 1. Combine lemon juice and garlic in small bowl I’d added nothing more to the feta than a couple of and set aside. Break feta into rough 1/2-inch pieces tablespoons of olive oil and a splash of lemon juice. A drizzle of grassy olive oil enhances the salty dip. and place in medium bowl. Add water to cover, then Stranger still, the dip continued to thin as it sat at swish briefly to rinse. Transfer to fine-mesh strainer room temperature. as anchovies and capers: I rinsed it, which tempered and drain well. But here’s the most surprising part of the story: the saltiness just enough. 2. Transfer feta to food processor. Add milk and The sheep’s milk itself was to blame for the dip’s With the base of the dip settled, I worked in some reserved lemon juice mixture and process until feta drippy consistency, and the result was actually bet‑ fresh oregano as well as a hint of minced garlic that mixture resembles ricotta cheese, about 15 seconds. ter—thicker and more stable—when I made it with I’d soaked in lemon juice to take the edge off its bite. With processor running, slowly drizzle in 2 table‑ cow’s-milk feta. That’s because sheep milk fat has It was a very traditional take. spoons oil. Continue to process until mixture has a lower melting point than cow milk fat, so cheese But the beauty of this dip—other than how easy Greek yogurt–like consistency (some small lumps made with sheep’s milk softens at a lower tempera‑ it is to make—is that the tangy, milky-rich base takes will remain), 11/2 to 2 minutes longer, stopping ture than cheese made with cow’s milk. In the test well to lots of different flavors. It was just as easy to once to scrape down bottom and sides of bowl. kitchen, which runs a little warm, using cow’s‑milk give the dip a smoky profile by adding roasted red Add oregano and pulse to combine. Transfer dip to feta was the only way to guarantee a consistently peppers, smoked paprika, and a touch of cayenne as it bowl. If serving immediately, drizzle with remaining thick texture. was to pack it with grassy and parsley. With results 2 teaspoons oil. (Dip may be refrigerated for up to Of course, I assumed that cow’s-milk feta would 3 days. If refrigerated, let sit at room temperature lack character and richness, but I needn’t have wor‑ for 30 minutes and drizzle with oil before serving.) ried. The subtleties of the sheep’s-milk cheese were SCIENCE mostly obscured by the other flavors in the dip (for Barnyard WHIPPED FETA AND more, see “Barnyard Battle: Cow versus Sheep”). Battle: Cow ROASTED RED PEPPER DIP The only drawback was that the cow’s‑milk cheese versus Sheep actually made the dip a little too stiff, not to mention Sheep’s milk contains fatty Substitute red wine vinegar for lemon juice. Reduce assertively salty (cow’s‑milk fetas tend to be saltier). acids that lend feta gamy, milk to 2 tablespoons. Add 1/4 cup jarred roasted red Whipping in a few tablespoons of milk loosened its savory flavors not found in cow’s peppers, chopped; 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika; and consistency enough that it could be swiped up with milk. But those nuances can be pinch cayenne pepper with milk. Omit oregano. a piece of soft pita. And as for taming the salinity, obscured by other flavors in the I did what we often do with salty ingredients such dip. What’s more, sheep’s‑milk WHIPPED FETA DIP WITH feta dip gets too loose if it sits DILL AND PARSLEY STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND at room temperature. For SHEEP’S‑MILK NUTRITION INFORMATION these reasons, we prefer to FETA = Substitute 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill (or mint, CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 use a cow’s‑milk feta for dip. DRIPPY DIP if desired) and 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

for oregano. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 56 Mexican Shrimp Cocktail Cóctel de camarón is more flavorful—and more fun—than the American classic.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

merican shrimp cocktail will always be a MEXICAN SHRIMP COCKTAIL classic, but I’m here to tell you that the (CÓCTEL DE CAMARÓN) Mexican take on the dish has a whole SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES lot more personality. Cóctel de camarón offersA an incredible mix of flavors and textures: We prefer untreated shrimp, but if your shrimp plump, tender poached shrimp; crisp bites of raw are treated with salt or additives such as sodium onion and cucumber; and cool, creamy avocado tripolyphosphate, do not add the salt in step 1. The are all coated in a tangy, spicy-sweet tomato sauce. balanced flavor of Valencia, Cholula, or Tapatío Eaten ice‑cold with a spoon and saltines, it’s like a hot sauce works best here. If using a spicier, vin‑ festive, shrimp‑packed Bloody Mary or gazpacho. egary hot sauce such as Tabasco, start with half I’ve made—and eaten—a lot of cóctel de camarón the amount called for and adjust to your taste after and know that success lies in nailing two key aspects: mixing. Saltines are a traditional accompaniment, the cooking of the shrimp and the sweetness and con‑ but tortilla chips or thick-cut potato chips are also sistency of the sauce, which always contains ketchup. good. Serve this dish as an appetizer or light meal. There are several ways to poach delicate proteins Our recipe for Mexican Shrimp Cocktail (Cóctel such as shrimp: Start cold and bring everything to a de Camarón) for Two is available to web subscrib‑ simmer; add the food to 160-degree water and fiddle ers at CooksIllustrated.com/oct19. with the stove to maintain a consistent temperature; or dump everything into boiling water and pull it off 11/4 pounds large shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), the burner so that carryover cooking does the job. peeled, deveined, and tails removed The residual heat method gave me the most consis‑ 1/4 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking tent results with the least effort. Here’s the interesting Serve the cocktail as a refreshing starter or light meal. shrimp part, though: Boiling water is way too hot for cooking 1 cup V8 juice, chilled delicate shrimp, but when 11/4 pounds of cold, raw Since ketchup was the sole source of body, I hesi‑ 1/2 cup ketchup seafood is added to 3 cups of boiling water, the water tated to use even less. Instead, I made three more 3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes), plus lime temperature instantly drops to 155 degrees, ideal for batches: one with Clamato, one with tomato juice, and wedges for serving poaching. After 5 minutes off the heat, the shrimp one with V8. The V8 version struck the right balance: 2 teaspoons hot sauce, plus extra for serving were tender and opaque. For easy eating, I cut each equally sweet and savory, with touches of tartness. 1/2 English cucumber, cut into 1/2-inch pieces one crosswise into three bite-size pieces. Ready to round out the dish, I cut a ripe avocado 1 cup finely chopped red onion With the shrimp all set, I tackled the sauce. Along and half an English cucumber into bite-size chunks. 1 avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into with ketchup, the sauce for cóctel de camarón typi‑ For savory crunch, I added finely chopped red onion 1/2-inch pieces cally includes some variety of tomato juice (frequently to the mix. Finally, a smattering of chopped cilantro 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro Clamato) as well as hot sauce and fresh lime juice. But contributed freshness. Saltines when I stirred together 2 cups of Clamato, 3/4 cup of With my work complete, I set out saltines, lime ketchup, lime juice, and hot sauce, the finished sauce wedges, and a bottle of hot sauce—essential accom‑ 1. Bring 3 cups water to boil in large saucepan was too sugary and thin. Reducing the Clamato by paniments to a stellar cóctel de camarón. over high heat. Stir in shrimp and 1 tablespoon half and the ketchup by 1/4 cup yielded a sauce with a salt. Cover and let stand off heat until shrimp are thicker consistency, but the oversweetness persisted. opaque, about 5 minutes, shaking saucepan halfway through standing time. Fill large bowl halfway with AFTER 2 MINUTES ice and water. Transfer shrimp to ice bath and let Why Cóctel de Camarón cool for 3 to 5 minutes. Once cool, cut each shrimp Should Have a V8 crosswise into 3 pieces. The sweet ketchup in Mexican shrimp cocktail is often 2. Combine V8 juice, ketchup, lime juice, hot cut with Clamato, tomato juice, or V8. We thought sauce, and salt in medium bowl. Add cucumber, Clamato had lots of character but was a little thin onion, and shrimp and stir until evenly coated. Stir in while tomato juice was overly sweet and fruity. But avocado and cilantro. Portion cocktail into individual V8’s blend of tomato and vegetable juices and lack of bowls or glasses and serve immediately, passing added sweeteners gave the dish a welcome savory saltines, lime wedges, and extra hot sauce separately. balance. Measuring viscosity on a DIY consistometer SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE V8 (left) flowed the slowest down the slope of our showed that V8 has a thicker consistency than the DIY consistometer, indicating a thicker viscosity that STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND other choices; it produced a punchy sauce that was we preferred to that of tomato juice (center) and NUTRITION INFORMATION liquid-y but not watered down. Clamato (right). CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

2019 annual 57 Homemade Kettle Chips Making the chips was quick and easy. Cracking the code on a frying method that would yield deep crunch? That was another matter.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

y love for junk food is no process called continuous frying—which secret in the test kitchen. ensures that the oil temperature holds In fact, I am the keeper steady at a high enough temperature for the of the Cook’s Illustrated starches to desiccate before they can absorb teamM snack corner, which typically water and create much sticky gel. As a result, includes everything from chocolate bars the chips are delicate and crisp. and pretzels to popcorn and chips. Generally speaking, it’s easy to follow So I was excited when I was tasked with a U-curve when frying at home because developing a recipe for kettle chips, the thick that drop in temperature happens naturally and crunchy style of potato chips that I hap‑ when you add cold food to hot oil, and it pen to love. The prep work is a cinch—you takes time to bring the oil back up to its don’t even have to peel the potatoes—and starting temperature. But after making a the frying method is actually tailor-made for few batches of kettle chips, I realized that home cooks (keep reading and I’ll explain you have to control how steeply the tem‑ why). Plus, if you’ve ever had freshly fried, perature drops and how quickly it recovers still-warm chips, you know that they’re a and that frying in a regular pot on a regular real treat (especially homemade versions of stove—as opposed to using a commercial classic flavors such as barbecue, sour cream setup—has its limitations. and onion, and salt and vinegar). There’s also a certain satisfaction that comes from Timing Is Everything producing snack food that could pass for When making chips at home, there is store-bought. only one variety of potato to choose: russet. This is because good chips come Crispy versus Crunchy from high‑starch, low‑sugar potatoes. Before I dive into the distinctive feature Commercial producers actually use of kettle chips—deep, satisfying crunch— special varieties that are extremely low in it helps to know the basic differences Leaving the potatoes unpeeled saves prep time and gives them rustic appeal. sugar to prevent overbrowning; common between this style of chip and the thin and russets (more accurately known as Russet crispy kind (think Lay’s Classic). Crispy chips are Potato slice thickness impacts a chip’s texture, Burbanks) are the closest available alternative. cut thin and cooked relatively hot and fast, while but it’s the frying time and temperature that make I sliced a pound of russets into ¹⁄₁₆-inch-thick kettle chips are cut roughly 50 percent thicker and the most profound difference. In fact, when I dug rounds using a mandoline and then heated 2 quarts fried at a lower temperature for longer. through a stack of research papers to see how the of oil in a 7-quart Dutch oven to 300 degrees, mim‑ two styles of chips are made commercially, it became icking the commercial method. But when I added clear that manufacturers have these details down to all the potatoes, the limitations of my ordinary pot EQUIPMENT Make Slicing Easy a science. became obvious. The slices, which were covered in With a mandoline—our favorite is the Swissmar First, let’s look at the kettle kind. They’re sticky surface starches, were crowded in the pot, and Börner Original V-Slicer Plus Mandoline—it takes batch‑fried in vats of oil, the temperature of which they stuck together even with constant stirring. So just minutes to transform potatoes into perfectly follows a U-curve that is key to creating their char‑ I took a cue from my recipe for Patatas Bravas (May/ thin, even slices. acteristic crunch. The process goes like this: The June 2016) and heated the oil for my next batch to potato slices are dropped into moderately hot (about 375 degrees, knowing that the higher temperature 300-degree) oil, which plunges to about 250 degrees. would help immediately dry out the potatoes’ surface As the oil slowly heats back up, the starches inside the starches and mitigate sticking (I’d still stir them as potatoes absorb water, forming a sticky gel that glues they fried). the potato cell walls together, like mortar strengthen‑ Now the question was how much to turn down ing a rock wall. Finally, the water is driven off, leaving the heat, since that would determine how quickly behind a rigid net of crisscrossed starch molecules with the oil recovered to the 300-degree range and how an open, crunchy structure. (All the while, the chips much time the starches in the chips had to give up are stirred, which prevents sticking.) their water. I added the potatoes and played it safe Meanwhile, crispy chips are made by propelling by turning the stove dial to low—but I shouldn’t the potato slices quickly and continuously through have. In total, that batch took more than 20 minutes

hot (about 350-degree) oil along a conveyor belt—a to fry, and the chips were unpleasantly hard. That’s TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 58 because with the longer cooking time, the water SCIENCE What Puts the Crunch in Kettle Chips? exited the gel so slowly that the starches had more Maximizing chip crunch is all about controlling the rate at which the oil temperature recov- time to organize into a denser, tougher structure. 375° 375° ers. Frying the potatoes over moderate heat (middle curve) gives their starches ample time Cranking the heat to high after adding the pota‑ to absorb water and form a sticky gel that reinforces the potatoes’ cell walls, making for toes was also a mistake. First and foremost, the chips 360° sturdy chips with big crunch. But frying over high heat (left curve) cooks the potatoes too overbrowned. Second, a weaker gel formed and left quickly, forming less gel and a fragile matrix of starch; the chips cook up crispy and delicate. 345° behind a disorderly and brittle matrix of starch; as When the potatoes are cooked over low heat (right curve), the opposite happens: Water a result, the chips were more crispy than crunchy. 330° exits the gel too slowly so that the matrix of starch has time to organize into a denser, Frying over medium heat was the answer: It allowed O tougher structure. I

L

315° the oil to hover in that 250-degree “gel zone” for T

E about 5 minutes so that the chips began to stiffen. M 300° FRIED TOO 300° 300° FRIED 300° P After another 6 to 8 minutes—just 13 minutes total E R QUICKLY JUST LONG frying time—the oil temperature had rebounded to 285° A T Crispy ENOUGH around 300 degrees, the rest of the water in the chips U Crunchy R 270° E FRIED had evaporated, and they’d turned completely rigid O V TOO SLOWLY and golden. 255° ER T Hard IME Powder to Coat 240° Now for those aforementioned seasonings. A smoky spice mix for barbecue chips was easy to make with pantry staples, and I imitated the other Dutch oven over medium heat to 375 degrees. BUTTERMILK AND CHIVE TOPPING two classic flavors—sour cream and onion and salt While oil heats, slice potatoes crosswise ¹⁄₁₆ inch and vinegar—with buttermilk powder and vinegar (11/2 millimeters) thick. Carefully add all potatoes Look for buttermilk powder in the baking aisle of powder, respectively. Processing the seasonings in to oil, 1 small handful at a time, separating slices as your supermarket. a spice grinder produced a fine powder that clung much as possible (oil will bubble vigorously). Cook, nicely when tossed with the hot chips. stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until bub‑ 4 teaspoons buttermilk powder If you’re on the fence about DIY snack food, take bling has calmed (it will not completely stop) and 1 teaspoon garlic powder it from this aficionado: You’ll be wowed by these slices begin to stiffen, 2 to 4 minutes. 1/2 teaspoon onion powder chips, and making them is easier than you’d think. 2. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until 1/2 teaspoon table salt shape of chips is set and slices are rigid at edges 1/4 teaspoon pepper CRUNCHY KETTLE POTATO CHIPS (chips will make rustling sound when stirred), about 1 teaspoon dried chives SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES 5 minutes longer, adjusting heat as needed to main‑ tain oil temperature between 240 and 250 degrees. Grind buttermilk powder, garlic powder, onion We strongly recommend using a mandoline to slice 3. Continue to cook, stirring and flipping pota‑ powder, salt, and pepper in spice grinder to fine the potatoes. A heavy 7-quart Dutch oven safely toes frequently with spider skimmer or slotted powder. Add chives and pulse until finely chopped, accommodates the full batch of chips and helps the oil spoon, until all bubbling ceases and chips are crisp about 3 pulses. retain heat; do not use a smaller, lighter pot. Stirring and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes longer, adjust‑ the potatoes during frying minimizes sticking. ing heat as needed during final minutes of cooking SALT AND VINEGAR TOPPING to maintain oil temperature between 280 and 2 quarts vegetable oil, for frying 300 degrees. Using spider skimmer or slotted Look for vinegar powder online. 1 pound russet potatoes, unpeeled spoon, transfer chips to prepared rack. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon table salt or 1 recipe topping salt or, if using topping, let chips cool for 30 sec‑ 1 tablespoon vinegar powder (recipes follow) onds, then transfer chips to large bowl with topping 1/2 teaspoon table salt and toss until evenly coated. Serve. (Chips can be 1. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet and line stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature for Grind vinegar powder and salt in spice grinder to with double layer of paper towels. Heat oil in large up to 5 days.) fine powder.

SMOKY BARBECUE TOPPING SCIENCE The Sound of Crispy versus Crunchy Whether you experience the chip you’re eating as crispy or crunchy 1 tablespoon smoked paprika is not a perfectly sharp distinction, but surprisingly, the difference may be 2 teaspoons sugar more in the ears than in the mouth. Scientists have run very telling tests 1 teaspoon garlic powder analyzing the differences in pitch among various foods being bitten, so we 1/2 teaspoon onion powder set up a kettle chip listening experiment. 1/2 teaspoon table salt Twenty-one test kitchen staffers listened to audio recordings of two Pinch cayenne pepper different samples being eaten—our favorite commercial “crispy” chips and our Crunchy Kettle Potato Chips—and classified the sounds they heard on a continuum from crispy to crunchy. The results were con- Grind all ingredients in spice grinder to fine powder. clusive: Eighty-six percent of listeners rated the commercial chip as sounding “crispy,” and 95 percent called the homemade kettle chip “crunchy.” Listeners’ auditory descriptions were even more compelling: “crackly,” STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND “light,” “high-pitched,” and “tenor”-like for the crispy chips; “deep,” “low,” and “bass”-like for the kettle chips. NUTRITION INFORMATION To us, that was sound evidence that differences in texture can be heard as much as felt. CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION:

2019 annual 59 Thai Shrimp and Noodle Soup This version of tom yum soup features hot, sour, salty, and sweet flavors, with shrimp and tender rice noodles to make it a meal.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

f you’ve ever eaten tom yum in a smashed them to partially break them down Thai restaurant, you’ll know that (see “A Smashing Way to Build Flavor”). this hot and sour soup is a bold With this approach, the broth developed example of the energetic flavors a heady perfume after just 15 minutes of thatI is famous for. The simmering, and the pieces could easily be heat comes from chiles and galangal removed using a slotted spoon. Sugar and (also known as Thai ginger), the sour fish sauce rounded things out with sweetness from lime juice and tamarind (a dark, and saltiness. tart fruit). But tom yum doesn’t stop there: It also serves up saltiness courtesy A Bold Finish of fish sauce and sweetness via a touch of To bulk up the soup, I stirred in fresh oys‑ sugar. Lemongrass, makrut lime leaves, ter mushrooms and the grassy green parts cilantro, and Thai basil round out the of the scallions. They would soften in the fragrant bowl. hot broth to add texture, and their mild There are many versions of tom yum flavors would offset the bold ones. soup, but my favorite, known as guy tiew Next, I slipped a pound of peeled large tom yum goong, is chock-full of shrimp, shrimp into the steaming broth off the heat rice noodles, and sometimes mushrooms for 5 minutes. The residual heat ensured that and/or tomatoes and topped with a deeply the shrimp gently cooked through with little savory, sweet, and spicy chili jam. As a light risk of turning rubbery. Halved cherry toma‑ main course, it’s very satisfying. Stick with toes added pops of color and another layer of me and it will be your favorite, too. acidity and sweetness, and a healthy squeeze of lime juice delivered the sour flourish that Taking Stock is a hallmark of guay tiew tom yum goong. Traditional recipes either start by calling for As I ladled the soup over rice noodles simmering pork bones in water or they sim‑ that I had “cooked” by soaking them in ply use plain water, whereas most modern Thai basil leaves, cilantro, lime juice, and thinly sliced Thai chiles enhance boiling water, I was rewarded with a com‑ versions call for store-bought chicken broth. this light, fresh, satisfying soup. plex aroma rising from the bowls. Topped A time-consuming stock didn’t fit with my with fresh cilantro, Thai basil, and sliced weeknight-friendly plans, so I tested chicken broth Thailand’s signature ingredients: lemongrass, makrut Thai chiles, my soup was nearly ready. versus water. Broth was preferred for its depth. lime leaves, scallion whites, galangal, and Thai chiles. In a final nod to authenticity, I topped each bowl Next, I looked to infuse the broth with some of But when I simply sliced the aromatics and simmered with a crimson dollop of nam prik pao (Thai chili them in the broth, it took more than an hour to jam, so called because of its jammy consistency), a extract sufficient flavor. On the other hand, pulsing rich, sweet, savory, and slightly spicy condiment of TECHNIQUE the ingredients in a food processor not only made the fried garlic, shallots, and dried chiles cooked down HOW TO COOK RICE broth unpleasantly intense but also required straining, with fish sauce and brown sugar. As I watched the VERMICELLI which was a hassle. Ultimately, it made sense to do as smiling faces of my tasters slurping from their bowls, Here’s how we cook rice vermicelli that is Thai cooks do: I sliced the aromatics and then lightly I knew my work was done. destined for a soup bowl: Just boil water, add the noodles, and turn off the heat, stirring the noodles once or twice as they soak. The noodles Store These Thai Staples in the Freezer are done when they’re fully tender but not Galangal, makrut lime leaves, and lemongrass can increasingly be found in the produce mushy; just taste one to check. Rinse the noodles section of large supermarkets. If you find them, we recommend stocking up and stor- with cold water to remove any starchy film and ing them in the freezer for up to six months. prevent clumping. Galangal: Peel nubs of galangal, then transfer to zipper-lock bag or airtight container and freeze. Makrut lime leaves: Rinse leaves, place on paper towels, and pat completely dry. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Place leaves in zipper-lock bag, squeezing out as much air as possible; seal bag; NUTRITION INFORMATION and freeze. CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 Lemongrass: Trim stalks to bottom 6 inches, transfer to zipper-lock bag, and freeze. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 60 Give Soup (and Everything Else) A SMASHING WAY TO a Savory Boost BUILD FLAVOR The sweet, savory, and spicy condiment called nam prik pao is the classic garnish for guay tiew tom yum We experimented with a few methods for goong, but it’s too good to be relegated to a single use. treating the aromatics for our soup. The best Thai cooks also use it on fried eggs, noodles, and white approach? The traditional one. rice; in stir-fries; or even as a sandwich spread. –S.D.

THAI CHILI JAM (NAM PRIK PAO) SERVES 16 TO 20 (MAKES ¾ CUP) TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES

Slice the shallots to a consistent thickness to ensure even cooking. For a spicier jam, add more chile seeds.

1/2 cup vegetable oil brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer 2 large shallots, sliced thin garlic to bowl with shallots. Add arbols and half of SLICED NO Cutting galangal, lemongrass, 4 large garlic cloves, sliced thin reserved seeds to hot oil and cook, stirring constantly, scallion whites, makrut lime leaves, and chiles into 10 dried arbol chiles, stemmed, halved until arbols turn deep red, 1 to 2 minutes. Strain oil thin slices was time-consuming; plus, it took more lengthwise, and seeds reserved through prepared strainer into bowl; reserve oil and than 1 hour to infuse their flavors into the broth. 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar transfer arbols to bowl with shallots and garlic. Do 3 tablespoons lime juice, plus extra for not wash saucepan. seasoning (2 limes) 2. Process shallot mixture, sugar, and lime juice in 2 tablespoons fish sauce, plus extra food processor until thick paste forms, 15 to 30 sec- for seasoning onds, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. 3. Return paste to now-empty saucepan and 1. Set fine-mesh strainer over heatproof bowl. add fish sauce and 2 tablespoons reserved oil. Bring Heat oil and shallots in medium saucepan over to simmer over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until shallots are frequently, until mixture is thickened and has jam-like deep golden brown, 10 to 14 minutes. Using slotted consistency, 4 to 5 minutes. Off heat, season with spoon, transfer shallots to second bowl. Add garlic extra lime juice, extra fish sauce, and salt to taste. PROCESSED NO Pulsing the mixture of to hot oil and cook, stirring constantly, until golden (Jam can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.) aromatics in a food processor chopped them so finely that they muddied the broth and made it unpleasantly potent. THAI HOT AND SOUR NOODLE 8 cups chicken broth SOUP WITH SHRIMP 1 tablespoon sugar, plus extra for seasoning (GUAY TIEW TOM YUM GOONG) 8 ounces oyster mushrooms, trimmed and SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS torn into 1-inch pieces 3 tablespoons fish sauce, plus extra for seasoning Whole shrimp are traditional in this soup, but you 1 pound extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per can halve them crosswise before cooking to make pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed them easier to eat. If galangal is unavailable, sub‑ 12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved stitute fresh ginger. Makrut lime leaves (sometimes 2 tablespoons lime juice, plus extra for sold as kaffir lime leaves) add a lot to this soup. If seasoning, plus lime wedges for serving you can’t find them, substitute three 3-inch strips 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves SMASHED YES Using a meat pounder to each of lemon zest and lime zest. We prefer vermi‑ 1/4 cup fresh Thai basil leaves, torn if large crush the aromatics allowed them to release celli made from 100 percent rice flour to varieties (optional) enough of their flavorful oils into the broth in just that include a secondary starch such as cornstarch. 1 recipe Thai Chili Jam (Nam Prik Pao) (optional) 15 minutes. If you can find only the latter, soak them longer— up to 15 minutes. 1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, add vermicelli, and let sit, stir‑ 15 minutes. Using slotted spoon, remove solids 4 ounces rice vermicelli ring occasionally, until vermicelli are fully tender, from pot and discard. 2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed to bottom 10 to 15 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, 3. Add mushrooms, fish sauce, scallion greens, 6 inches drain again, and distribute evenly among large and sliced Thai chile and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. 4 scallions, trimmed, white parts left whole, soup bowls. Stir in shrimp. Cover and let sit off heat until shrimp green parts cut into 1-inch lengths 2. Place lemongrass, scallion whites, lime are opaque and cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir 6 makrut lime leaves, torn if large leaves, whole Thai chile, and galangal on cutting in tomatoes and lime juice. Season with extra sugar, 2 Thai chiles, stemmed (1 left whole, 1 sliced board and lightly smash with meat pounder or extra fish sauce, and extra lime juice to taste. thin), divided, plus 2 Thai chiles, stemmed bottom of small skillet until mixture is moist and 4. Ladle soup into bowls of noodles; sprinkle with and sliced thin, for serving (optional) very fragrant. Transfer lemongrass mixture to cilantro and Thai basil, if using. Serve, drizzled with 1 (2-inch) piece fresh galangal, peeled and Dutch oven. Add broth and sugar and bring to chili jam, if using, and passing lime wedges and extra sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer for sliced Thai chiles, if using, separately.

2019 annual 61 Silky, Elegant—and from a Can Soup made with canned beans is convenient and satisfying. But can it be sophisticated, too? Surprisingly, yes.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

rdering pureed soup at a restaurant just feels fancy. That’s not because it’s made from pricey ingredients or enriched with loads of cream; in fact, someO of the best soups I’ve had have been based on common vegetables or legumes blended with broth or water. What impresses is the thought‑ ful composition of the dish: There’s the soup itself, which is perfectly smooth after being pureed in a high-powered blender and passed through an ultrafine‑mesh strainer. And then there are the bold, diverse garnishes that sharpen the soup into something attention‑grabbing, artful, and deeply flavorful. But I’m here to let you in on a little secret: There’s no need to go to a restaurant to have this experience. You can pull off something equally sumptuous and interesting without spe‑ Creamy white cial equipment and with beans provide the ingredients you probably perfect canvas for a already have in your pan‑ range of garnishes. try. And it all starts with a humble can of white beans. Not only are these legumes inexpensive and filling, but they are naturally creamy when pureed and have a mild flavor that provides the perfect can‑ vas for a range of garnishes. And the fact that they’re already cooked means you can devote a little extra effort to making garnishes that really pop. The soup itself comes together in about 20 min‑ utes. I started by softening some aromatics (chopped onion and celery) in olive oil and then added thyme sprigs, sliced garlic, and a touch of cayenne pepper. Next came two cans of great Northern beans—a moderately starchy variety that made the soup velvety but not stodgy—along with their seasoned liquid, which added more bean flavor and viscous body. I covered the saucepan and simmered the beans until they started to soften and break down slightly, removed the thyme sprigs, pureed the mixture in the A sprinkling of crispy capers and a swirl of vibrant herb oil make this humble bean soup dazzle. blender, and then thinned it with a few cups of water. The soup was silky but tasted flat and lean, so creamy, lean soup. My first idea was to whip up an had infused the oil with their briny punch. I strained I worked in a couple of tablespoons each of grated easy, vibrant herb oil—something like a minimalist out the capers and set them aside to cool; tossed the Parmesan and butter and swapped in chicken broth salsa verde made from extra-virgin olive oil, chopped chopped herbs into the infused oil, which I drizzled for the water. I purposely waited until the soup parsley and basil, and capers. But while the oil tasted over the silky soup; and followed with a sprinkling was done cooking before seasoning it with salt and bright and fresh, the capers made it chunky and hard of the capers. lemon juice and adjusting its consistency with hot to drizzle elegantly. So I reengineered things to yield water, since the salt content and the beans and their two interrelated garnishes instead of just one: First, STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND canning liquid vary from brand to brand. I microwave-fried the capers in the oil, as we often NUTRITION INFORMATION Then came the fun part: coming up with gar‑ do with aromatics such as garlic and shallots. After CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19

nishes that would add brightness and contrast to the 5 minutes, the capers were crisp and delicate and TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 62 The tandem effect of the crispy capers and bright Turn Simple Soup into a herb oil elevated the soup much more than either Standout with Garnish Duos garnish would have on its own, and it inspired a few Consider this simple, silky soup a blank slate on more pairs that delivered equally impressive visual which you can build visual, textural, and flavor and textural contrast from (mostly) pantry staples appeal with garnishes. Substitute any of these and deceptively little work: garlicky bread crumbs quick‑to-make combinations for the herb oil that soaked up fragrant, spicy oil from pieces of fried and crispy capers to complement the beans’ chorizo; olive oil and crunchy bits of quick-pickled subtle savory flavor. celery; and a dollop of thick, lemony yogurt along‑ side needle-thin crispy leeks. With each combination, CHORIZO OIL AND GARLICKY the soup took on a different character—like eating BREAD CRUMBS at a new restaurant every night. SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES

CREAMY WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and ¼ cup HERB OIL AND CRISPY CAPERS panko bread crumbs in 8-inch skillet over medium SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic and cook Use a conventional blender here; an immersion until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl and LEMONY YOGURT AND CRISPY LEEKS blender will not produce as smooth a soup. Do not stir in pinch table salt. Heat 1 cup extra‑virgin olive oil SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES drain or rinse the beans; their liquid contributes to and 21/2 ounces finely chopped Spanish‑style chorizo the soup’s flavor and body. Because the salt content sausage in now-empty skillet over medium heat, stir- Halve white and light green part of 1 leek lengthwise, of canned beans varies from brand to brand, season to ring frequently, until chorizo is crispy, about 2 minutes. then slice into very thin 2-inch-long strips. Wash and taste at the end of cooking. The test kitchen’s favorite Using slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to paper towel– dry thoroughly. Toss with 2 tablespoons all‑purpose chicken broth is Swanson Chicken Stock. lined plate. Drizzle each portion of soup with chorizo flour in medium bowl. Stir in 1/2 cup vegetable oil and sprinkle with chorizo and bread crumbs. oil. Microwave for 5 minutes. Stir and microwave Herb Oil and Crispy Capers 2 minutes longer. Repeat stirring and microwaving in 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND 2-minute increments until leeks begin to brown (4 to 1/4 cup capers, rinsed and patted dry QUICK-PICKLED CELERY 6 minutes total), then repeat stirring and microwaving 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley SERVES 4 TO 6 in 30-second increments until leeks are deep golden 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES RESTING (30 seconds to 2 minutes total). Using slotted spoon, transfer leeks to paper towel–lined plate; discard oil. Soup Microwave 1/2 cup rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar, Let leeks drain and turn crispy, about 5 minutes, then 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon table salt in medium bowl until sim- season with salt to taste. Meanwhile, whisk 1/2 cup 1/2 cup chopped onion mering, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in 1 finely chopped celery plain Greek yogurt, 3 tablespoons water, and 1 tea- 1 small celery rib, chopped fine rib and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain celery, discarding spoon lemon zest and 2 teaspoons juice in bowl until 3 sprigs fresh thyme liquid. Drizzle each portion of soup with 1 teaspoon smooth. Season with table salt to taste. Drizzle each 2 garlic cloves, sliced extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with celery. portion of soup with yogurt and sprinkle with leeks. Pinch cayenne pepper 2 (15-ounce) cans great Northern beans 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 2 cups chicken broth, divided Two Techniques to Ensure a Supersmooth Soup 2 tablespoons unsalted butter This soup is so lush and silky you’d think it was pureed in a professional-quality blender, passed through a 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, plus restaurant-grade sieve, and enriched with cream. But it’s nothing but beans, broth, butter, seasonings— extra for seasoning and two effective techniques. PUREE WITH MINIMAL 1. FOR THE HERB OIL AND CRISPY COOK CANNED BEANS: LIQUID: Blending the beans with CAPERS: Combine oil and capers in medium bowl Heating canned beans loosens a small amount of liquid (more (capers should be mostly submerged). Microwave their starch granules (which liquid is added later) allows for lots until capers are darkened in color and have shrunk, we perceive as gritty on the of friction that helps grind their skins about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through microwav‑ tongue) and allows water into a smooth puree. The liquid ing. Using slotted spoon, transfer capers to paper to dilute the starch so that creates just enough of a vortex to towel–lined plate (they will continue to crisp as they it’s imperceptible. keep the blender running. cool); set aside. Reserve oil. 2. FOR THE SOUP: Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion break down, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove saucepan 4. Return soup to clean saucepan and whisk in and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until soft‑ from heat and discard thyme sprigs. remaining 1 cup broth. Cover and bring to simmer ened but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add thyme 3. Process bean mixture and Parmesan in blender over medium heat, adjusting consistency with up to sprigs, garlic, and cayenne and cook, stirring con‑ on low speed until thick, smooth puree forms, about 1 cup hot water as needed. Off heat, stir in lemon stantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add beans 2 minutes. With blender running, add 1 cup broth juice. Season with salt and extra lemon juice to taste. and their liquid and stir to combine. Reduce heat to and butter. Increase speed to high and continue to 5. Stir parsley and basil into reserved caper oil. medium‑low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, process until butter is incorporated and mixture is Drizzle each portion of soup with herb oil, sprinkle

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: until beans are heated through and just starting to pourable, about 1 minute longer. with capers, and serve.

2019 annual 63 Beet Salad in Less Than an Hour Want sweet, velvety beets without the wait? Micro-steam them.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

f you aren’t cooking beets, you should be. They’re cheap, widely available, and nutri‑ BEET SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND ARUGULA tious. When properly cooked, they feature SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES velvety texture, earthy sweetness, and vibrant colorI that make them the focus of salads and sides. Be sure to wear gloves when peeling and dicing If only they cooked faster. While roasting—the the beets to prevent your hands from becoming most common method—is easy (just wrap whole stained. The moisture content of goat cheese var‑ unpeeled beets in foil and throw them in the oven), ies, so add the water slowly in step 2. For the best even average-size beets need more than an hour to presentation, use red beets here, not golden or turn truly tender. Plus, you have to wait for the oven Chioggia beets. Our recipes for Beet Salad with to preheat and then for the roasted specimens to cool Blue Cheese and Endive and Beet Salad with before peeling. Also, beets cooked this way can’t be Spiced Yogurt and Watercress are available to web seasoned; the salt merely sits on the skins. subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/feb19. I brainstormed ways to speed things up. Water transfers heat more efficiently than air does, so I tried 2 pounds beets, trimmed, peeled, and cut into boiling whole beets. This saved only 15 minutes. 3/4-inch pieces Peeling the beets with a vegetable peeler and cutting 1/2 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon plus 2 pinches them into chunks shortened the cooking time to table salt, divided 25 minutes, but the beets leached flavor and inky 4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled (1 cup) color into the water and tasted washed-out. Steaming 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided produced more flavorful results but took 50 minutes. 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 5 teaspoons We often jump-start food in the microwave, juice, divided, plus extra juice for seasoning so I gave that a whirl. I microwaved the beets for For a pretty presentation, we spread a creamy dressing 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds 20 minutes and then spread them on a baking sheet on the platter before arranging the salad on top. 1/4 teaspoon pepper to finish in the oven, which took another 20 minutes. 5 ounces (5 cups) baby arugula Not bad, but the cut surfaces browned, turning more juice and water; seasoning it with lemon zest, herbs, 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted, divided savory than sweet—I wanted maximum sweetness. and spices; and spreading it across a serving platter. 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided Why not use the microwave to go all the way? Then I topped it with a few handfuls of arugula and Although it’s a myth that microwaves penetrate all the beets (both lightly dressed with olive oil and 1. In largest bowl your microwave will accom‑ the way to the center of even the thickest food, they more lemon juice), followed by toasted almonds modate, stir together beets, 1/3 cup water, and can easily penetrate to the interior of a beet chunk and for nutty crunch. 1/2teaspoon salt. Cover with plate and microwave heat the water molecules inside it, effectively steaming The “schmear” tactic worked well with blue until beets can be easily pierced with paring knife, it from within. Indeed, the microwaved beets were cheese and yogurt, too, so I put together a couple 25 to 30 minutes, stirring halfway through micro‑ tender in 25 minutes, the same as for boiling but more company-worthy salads. But given the speed waving. Drain beets in colander and let cool. without the washed-out flavor. Their surfaces were and convenience of my new cooking method, I’ll be 2. In medium bowl, use rubber spatula to mash a tad dry, so I nuked another batch with 1/3 cup of micro-steaming beets for just about any salad or side. together goat cheese, 1 tablespoon chives, lemon water added to the bowl and covered it with a plate zest and 2 teaspoons juice, caraway seeds, pepper, to trap steam. and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Slowly stir in up to 1/3 cup These beets were silky and tender, and I could Why Beets Take So Long to Cook water until mixture has consistency of regular season them by adding a little salt to the water. And Most vegetables turn to mush after being micro- yogurt. Season with salt, pepper, and extra lemon since I’d already peeled them, I could simply drain waved for half an hour because the pectin and juice to taste. Spread goat cheese mixture over them and add them directly to a showstopper salad. hemicellulose that hold their cells together dissolve serving platter. My hang-up with most beet salads—the kind in the heat. But beets contain phenolic compounds 3. In large bowl, combine arugula, 2 table‑ tossed with goat cheese, nuts, and greens—is that the that toughen their cellular cement. As a result, beet spoons almonds, 2 teaspoons oil, 1 teaspoon lemon creamy cheese smears all over the other ingredients pectin is particularly heat-stable, which means it juice, and pinch salt and toss to coat. Arrange and turns muddy while the beets sink to the bot‑ takes longer to soften beets during cooking. arugula mixture on top of goat cheese mixture, tom of the bowl. So instead, I used the goat cheese leaving 1-inch border of goat cheese mixture. Add as an anchor for the salad, thinning it with lemon beets to now-empty bowl and toss with remaining 2 teaspoons lemon juice, remaining 1 teaspoon STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND oil, and remaining pinch salt. Place beet mixture NUTRITION INFORMATION on top of arugula mixture. Sprinkle salad with CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 MUSHY TURNIP FIRM BEET remaining 2 tablespoons almonds and remaining

1 tablespoon chives and serve. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 64 The Best Way to Boil Green Beans For deeply flavored, tender, bright-green beans for salad, we looked to the sea.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

love the gorgeous bright color of briefly To highlight the beans in a salad, I created blanched green beans in salad, but I’ve never a few variations: a Mediterranean composition loved their starchy, still-raw taste or their using mint, parsley, feta cheese, and tomatoes; a so-called crisp-tender texture, which is usu‑ French‑style version with Dijon, capers, and tar‑ Ially not tender at all. But cooking vegetables ragon; and a Southeast Asian–influenced salad with until they’re soft enough to be speared with a fried shallots, carrots, and peanuts. Not only were fork generally means you’ve got to boil the living these some great salads, but I also had a terrific new color out of them—not to mention all their fresh, technique that I could apply to other grassy flavor. vegetables as well. Years ago, I stumbled across a tip in Harold McGee’s indispensable tome On Food and Cooking GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH (1984) that described how heavily salted water CHERRY TOMATOES AND FETA speeds the cooking of vegetables. According to SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES McGee, the key is to cook vegetables in extremely salty water—so salty that it has the same 3 percent If you don’t own a salad spinner, lay the green concentration as seawater. I’d never acted on it since beans on a clean dish towel to dry in step 2. The it translates into 2 tablespoons of salt per quart of blanched, shocked, and dried green beans can be water—an extraordinary amount, given that I usually refrigerated in a zipper-lock bag for up to two days. throw that much into 4 quarts of water when blanch‑ Our recipes for Green Bean Salad with Shallot, ing vegetables. Now, with loads of boiled green Mustard, and Tarragon and Southeast Asian–Style beans on the horizon, I decided to finally give it a try. Green Bean Salad with Carrots, Cilantro, Fried I boiled 11/2 pounds of green beans in a solution Shallots, and Peanuts are available to web subscrib‑ of 1/2 cup of salt and 4 quarts of water alongside Heavily salted water cooks the beans faster and ers at CooksIllustrated.com/aug19. another batch with just 2 tablespoons of salt in the significantly enhances their flavor. same amount of water. Sure enough, the beans in 11/2 pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into the heavily salted water were tender a full 5 minutes without making them overly salty. The beans that 1- to 2-inch lengths before the beans in the lightly salted water. They had cooked with just a little salt, on the other hand, 1/4 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for blanching had also retained their vibrant color, while the other barely tasted seasoned at all. 12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved beans had faded to a drab olive. What’s so magical about supersalty water? 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil This was a neat discovery, but the one I made According to McGee, when vegetables are cooked 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint when I took a bite of the “seawater” beans was in salted water, sodium ions displace some of 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley even more important: They tasted incredible. The the calcium ions in their cell walls. Calcium ions 1 tablespoon lemon juice heavily salted water had given them a meaty, highly strengthen pectin—the glue that holds plant cell walls 1/4 teaspoon pepper seasoned, and intensely green-beany flavor—and together—by allowing it to form cross-links, and the 2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup) ions’ displacement prevents that cross-linking and causes the vegetable to soften. (It is for precisely the 1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan FOR BEANS THAT ARE TENDER same reason that we like to brine dried beans in salt over high heat. Add green beans and 1/4 cup salt, BUT STILL BRIGHT, BRING ON water: The displacement of the calcium ions in their return to boil, and cook until green beans are bright THE SALT skins softens them and prevents them from bursting green and tender, 5 to 8 minutes. during cooking.) 2. While green beans cook, fill large bowl halfway But 1/2 cup of salt was a lot to use for one dish. with ice and water. Drain green beans in colander I wondered if I could get the same effect with less, and immediately transfer to ice bath. When green so I tried going down to 1/4 cup of salt per 4 quarts beans are no longer warm to touch, drain in colander of water. The beans took slightly longer to tender‑ and dry thoroughly in salad spinner. ize, lost a little of their color, and were no longer 3. Place green beans, tomatoes, oil, mint, pars‑ as well seasoned or as flavorful; clearly you need a ley, lemon juice, pepper, and salt in bowl and toss strong salt concentration to get enough sodium to to combine. Transfer to platter, sprinkle with feta, infiltrate the beans’ sturdy skins. The solution (pun and serve. TENDER AND TENDER AND intended)? Keep the concentration the same but BRIGHT DRAB Cooking time: 7 minutes Cooking time: 12 minutes decrease the volumes of water and salt. Just 1/4 cup STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Salt per 2 quarts Salt per 2 quarts water: of salt in 2 quarts of water did the trick and felt like NUTRITION INFORMATION water: 1/4 cup 1 tablespoon a reasonable amount for such tender, vibrantly col‑ CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: ored, and deeply flavorful green beans.

2019 annual 65 What to Do with Eggplant For most types of produce, a few basic cooking methods immediately spring to mind. Eggplant? Not so much.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

s a professional cook, I have the Asian varieties but were too large for loads of vegetable preparation the others. Conversely, slicing into rounds methods filed in my brain, and then into pie-shaped wedges was well which makes it easy to shop suited to larger eggplant but not the smaller forA and throw together weeknight meals. ones. The only method that worked across Are carrots looking good at the market? the board was cutting the eggplant in half Roast them with a touch of butter and crosswise and then lengthwise into slim, flavor according to whatever else is on even wedges. This way, each piece was the menu. Spinach? Sauté with aromatics. guaranteed to have a uniform ratio of skin Asparagus? Pan-steam until crisp‑tender. to flesh no matter the dimensions of the And so it goes: I have equally straightfor‑ eggplant. (It was also important to choose ward one-pan techniques for almost every moderately sized Italian or globe : vegetable out there. Except eggplant. Cut into wedges, the big swaths of flesh Faced with a pile of these dark, glossy that were created with large eggplants were specimens, I’m stumped. Sure, I can make more liable to break away from the skin.) a great eggplant Parmesan or fire up the grill for authentic baba ghanoush, but Global Flavors that’s project cooking. If I just want a Now that I had nailed an accessible, adapt‑ simple side, I’m out of ideas. able technique that produced gorgeously The result is that I often bypass egg‑ creamy eggplant, the flavor possibilities plant, and that’s a shame, because it is such were infinite. a lovely vegetable (actually, botanically One of my favorite ways to enjoy egg‑ speaking, it’s a berry). Eggplant is easy to plant is in the rich, complex Sichuan dish prep and mild in flavor (modern varieties yu xiang qie zi (“fish-fragrant eggplant,” are bred to be less bitter than they once since the sauce is also used for fish). Here, were), with extremely porous flesh that the pieces are coated in a potent soy-garlic soaks up seasonings. Serve our braised eggplant as a robust side dish or pair it with rice for a sauce, so I decided to simmer my eggplant If I could come up with a one-pan vegetarian or vegan main course. in a braising liquid inspired by those flavors. side, my eggplant hang-ups might just be I diluted a mixture of rice wine, soy sauce, resolved forever. I had a hunch that braising might I knew that the eggplant would shrink during brais‑ sugar, and broad bean chili paste with water and be the way to go: Braised eggplant shows up in a ing, so I loaded roughly 1 pound of eggplant pieces bolstered it with a bit of cornstarch for body. As diverse set of cuisines, from Thai to Japanese to into the skillet, added some water, put the lid on, and the eggplant simmered, its spongy flesh absorbed Chinese to Mediterranean. Methods vary widely, but simmered for 15 minutes until the pulp was soft. At the delightfully salty, sweet, and spicy ingredients. the result—pieces of eggplant that are supertender this point I removed the lid and let the water bubble I crowned the glistening dish with a couple of sliced and almost custardy but remain intact—is always for another 15 minutes or so until it reduced to about scallions and a drizzle of toasted sesame oil. This was meaty, comforting, and deeply satisfying. 1/4 cup. This dead-simple approach worked quite well. everything I wanted my eggplant to be: impossibly Well, perhaps that’s an overstatement: I was tender, intensely flavorful, and easy to put together. Aubergenius pleased with the texture of the eggplant, with its And so I continued, next preparing a variation rich In the test kitchen, we often use a Dutch oven for supple skin and creamy flesh, but whenever I stirred, with warm Mediterranean spices and gussied up with braising, but here I reached for a 12-inch nonstick the delicate pieces tended to break apart. So instead fresh cilantro and a drizzle of tangy yogurt. Another, skillet. Its shallow, flared sides would allow for quick of using a spoon, I simply swirled the skillet. inspired by Middle Eastern cuisine, calls for spiking evaporation so I could simmer the eggplant in a That helped, but the size and shape of the pieces, the braising liquid with pomegranate molasses and sufficient volume of liquid and then quickly reduce as well as the eggplant variety, also had an impact on finishing with a -lemon sauce and sprinklings it to a flavorful, clingy sauce. But before I considered whether or not the chunks stayed intact. I knew that of toasted almonds and parsley. All are a snap to pre‑ the seasonings, I’d work out the cooking method each piece needed to have some skin attached, since pare, leaving plenty of time to make a main course. using just water. skinless flesh fell apart and muddied the sauce. Also, That said, the recipes are so incredibly satisfying that I wanted the recipe to work with the most commonly I also like to offer them with white or brown rice as STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND available types of eggplant, each with a different size a vegetarian or vegan main course. NUTRITION INFORMATION and shape: long, slender Chinese or Japanese egg‑ Can an eggplant inspire confidence? With these CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 plant; larger, bulbous globe eggplant; and smaller recipes in your back pocket, the answer is a resound‑

Italian eggplant. Coin‑shaped slices worked well for ing yes. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 66 How to Prep Eggplant for Braising volume enough to form single layer on bottom of Peeled pieces of eggplant, as well as pieces that are too large, will disintegrate as they simmer. For intact skillet, about 15 minutes, gently shaking skillet to pieces, it’s important to choose a medium-size eggplant (if using a globe or Italian variety) settle eggplant halfway through cooking (some pieces and cut it so that each piece has some skin attached. will remain opaque). 3. Uncover and continue to cook, swirling skillet occasionally, until liquid is thickened and reduced to just a few tablespoons, 12 to 14 minutes longer. Transfer to platter, drizzle with sesame oil, sprinkle 3. Cut each piece into with scallions, and serve. 3/4-inch-thick wedges. BRAISED EGGPLANT WITH PAPRIKA, CORIANDER, AND YOGURT SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES 1. Cut eggplant in half crosswise. Large globe and Italian eggplants disintegrate when braised, so do not substitute a single 1- to 11/4‑pound 2. Cut each half eggplant here. You can substitute 1 to 11/4 pounds of lengthwise to form long, slim Chinese or Japanese eggplants if they are two pieces. available; cut them as directed.

2 (8- to 10-ounce) globe or Italian eggplants BRAISED EGGPLANT WITH SOY, 1 teaspoon cornstarch 3 tablespoons vegetable oil GARLIC, AND GINGER 2 (8- to 10-ounce) globe or Italian eggplants 2 garlic cloves, minced SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 garlic clove, minced 2 teaspoons paprika Large globe and Italian eggplants disintegrate when 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon table salt braised, so do not substitute a single 1- to 11/4‑pound 1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon ground coriander eggplant here. You can substitute 1 to 11/4 pounds of 2 scallions, sliced thin on bias 1/2 teaspoon sugar long, slim Chinese or Japanese eggplants if they are 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin available; cut them as directed. Asian broad bean chili 1. Whisk water, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon paste or sauce is also known as doubanjiang or, as the chili paste, and cornstarch in medium bowl until 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg common brand Lee Kum Kee spells it, toban djan. sugar is dissolved. Trim 1/2 inch from top and bot‑ 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger This dish pairs nicely with rice and simply cooked tom of 1 eggplant. Halve eggplant crosswise. Cut 23/4 cups water chicken or pork, but you can omit the protein and each half lengthwise into 2 pieces. Cut each piece 1/3 cup plain whole-milk yogurt serve it in larger portions as a vegetarian or vegan into 3/4‑inch‑thick wedges. Repeat with remaining 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro main course. Our recipe for Braised Eggplant with eggplant. Pomegranate and Tahini is available to web subscrib‑ 2. Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet 1. Trim 1/2 inch from top and bottom of ers at CooksIllustrated.com/oct19. over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and 1 eggplant. Halve eggplant crosswise. Cut each ginger and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, half lengthwise into 2 pieces. Cut each piece into 11/2 cups water about 30 seconds. Spread eggplant evenly in skillet 3/4‑inch-thick wedges. Repeat with remaining 1/4 cup Chinese rice wine or dry sherry (pieces will not form single layer). Pour rice wine mix‑ eggplant. 2 tablespoons soy sauce ture over eggplant. Increase heat to high and bring 2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over 4 teaspoons sugar to boil. Reduce heat to maintain gentle boil. Cover medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, 2 teaspoons Asian broad bean chili paste and cook until eggplant is soft and has decreased in stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato paste, paprika, salt, coriander, sugar, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger and cook, SCIENCE What Makes Eggplant So Silky? stirring constantly, until mixture starts to darken, We’ve long been enamored by 1 to 2 minutes. Spread eggplant evenly in skillet the almost custardy silkiness that (pieces will not form single layer). Pour water over eggplant takes on in moist-heat eggplant. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. preparations such as braising. But Reduce heat to maintain gentle boil. Cover and cook what gives it that unusual texture? until eggplant is soft and has decreased in volume As eggplant cooks, its uniquely enough to form single layer on bottom of skillet, air-filled flesh (which is technically about 15 minutes, gently shaking skillet to settle called the aerenchyma) collapses, eggplant halfway through cooking (some pieces will becoming denser and firmer. remain opaque). Meanwhile, the cell walls release 3. Uncover and continue to cook, swirling skillet pectin and hemicellulose, long occasionally, until liquid is thickened and reduced to branching molecules that dissolve just a few tablespoons, 12 to 14 minutes longer. Off into the water within the eggplant heat, season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to create a smooth, soft texture. to platter, drizzle with yogurt, sprinkle with cilantro,

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: and serve.

2019 annual 67 A New Way to Cook Kale Steam is all you need to bring out the best in this brassica.

j BY KEITH DRESSER k

ruth be told, I’m not a huge kale salad stirring frequently, until liquid has evaporated and fan. But I also don’t like cooking kale kale starts to sizzle, 2 to 3 minutes. Push kale to to death: Braising can dull its distinctive 1 side of pot, add garlic mixture to empty side, and flavor and turn it mushy. Wouldn’t it cook until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir Tbe nice to have something in between? In other garlic mixture into kale. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. words, a side that celebrates kale’s gutsy taste and Season with salt and extra lemon juice to taste. Serve. achieves a tender (but not sodden) texture. Right away, I decided that dry-heat methods— PAN-STEAMED KALE WITH CHORIZO roasting, broiling, and sautéing—were out; they produced either brittle, crisp leaves or ones that For the best results, use a cured Spanish-style chorizo. were wet but still chewy. A moist environment was essential to produce just-tender greens. I settled on Cook 3 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, steaming, which didn’t wash away flavor like boiling quartered lengthwise and sliced 1/4 inch thick, and and blanching did. 3 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high The problem: To cook enough to serve four heat, stirring frequently, until starting to brown, about (about 14 cups of prepped kale, which cooked down 3 minutes. Off heat, using slotted spoon, transfer to 5 or 6 cups), I had to use a large pot and a steamer chorizo to bowl. Proceed with recipe, adding broth basket or colander—a cumbersome setup. Wondering to fat left in pot; omitting garlic, pepper flakes, and if I could skip the steamer, I poured a cup of water additional 1 tablespoon oil; and substituting red wine into a Dutch oven, packed in the voluminous leaves, vinegar for lemon juice. Sprinkle kale with reserved popped on the lid, and cranked the heat to high. chorizo before serving. Unfortunately, the water took so long to reach a boil and create a steamy environment that the leaves PAN-STEAMED KALE WITH PANCETTA at the bottom of the pot were hopelessly overcooked by the time the ones on top started to wilt. The next Use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder to crush time around, I first boiled the water and then loaded the fennel seeds. in the kale. Now there was plenty of steam from the beginning, so the kale cooked efficiently and evenly In this variation, chorizo and red wine vinegar accent Cook 2 ounces finely chopped pancetta and with a stir halfway through. After 7 minutes, the the just-tender kale. 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high leaves were tender but still had a nice bite. What’s heat, stirring frequently, until browned, about more, they actually tasted like kale. PAN-STEAMED KALE WITH GARLIC 3 minutes. Off heat, using slotted spoon, transfer But kale flavor wasn’t enough—the greens needed SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES pancetta to bowl. Proceed with recipe, adding seasoning. First, I traded the water for chicken broth. broth to fat left in pot and substituting 1/2 teaspoon This gave the dish a meaty backbone without making Vegetable broth can be substituted for the chicken fennel seeds, crushed, for garlic and pepper flakes it taste overtly chicken-y. But since the broth, which broth, if desired. and balsamic vinegar for lemon juice. Sprinkle kale had plenty of salt, reduced almost completely, I had with 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts and reserved to remove any added salt lest the dish become too 1 cup chicken broth pancetta before serving. salty. For vibrancy, I tried pouring in white wine with 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided the broth, but the long exposure to an acidic environ‑ 11/4 pounds curly kale, stemmed and cut into PAN-STEAMED KALE ment caused a reaction with the chlorophyll in the 2-inch pieces (14 cups) WITH RAISINS AND ALMONDS kale, turning it a drab green. Instead, I added lemon 2 garlic cloves, sliced thin juice to the kale off the heat just before serving, which 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes Regular raisins can be substituted for the golden provided brightness without color‑changing effects. 1 teaspoon lemon juice, plus extra raisins, if desired. Lastly, I thought some thinly sliced garlic and for seasoning a healthy pinch of red pepper flakes were in order. Add 1/4 cup golden raisins to Dutch oven with I waited until all the moisture in the Dutch oven 1. Bring broth and 2 tablespoons oil to boil in kale in step 1. Substitute 1/4 teaspoon garam masala had evaporated—as signaled by the kale starting to Dutch oven over high heat. Add kale, cover, and for garlic and pepper flakes. Sprinkle kale with sizzle—before pushing the kale to one side and add‑ reduce heat to medium-high. Cook until kale is 2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds before serving. ing the aromatics, mixed with a bit of oil, to the other tender with some resilience, about 7 minutes, stir‑ side. The garlic became fragrant almost immediately, ring halfway through cooking. While kale cooks, STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND providing bursts of nutty sweetness to complement combine garlic, pepper flakes, and remaining NUTRITION INFORMATION the earthy, slightly bitter kale that was neither raw nor 1 tablespoon oil in small bowl. CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19

braised but, happily, somewhere right in between. 2. Uncover, increase heat to high, and cook, TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 68 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes These spuds come in assorted shapes and sizes. How do you cook them evenly?

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

ingerling potatoes are often confused with Two more potent toppings for my sophisticated, new potatoes due to their small size and slender spuds included a zippy mix of lemon zest, thin, tender skin. However, fingerlings garlic, and parsley and a salty-sharp take on cacio e are fully mature potatoes with an earthy pepe with Pecorino Romano and black pepper. Fnuttiness. Roasting is a great way to enhance their flavor with browning, and their diminutive size ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES means they can be cooked whole. The only prob‑ WITH MIXED HERBS lem is that they can vary widely in shape (from SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR crescent‑like to knobby) and length (from 1 inch to nearly 5 inches). I wanted to see if I could get If using a glass or ceramic baking dish, increase the assorted sizes to cook at the same rate. roasting time in step 1 by 5 minutes. This recipe can I started by tossing 2 pounds of fingerlings with easily be doubled; roast the potatoes in two 13 by salt and a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, spread‑ 9-inch baking pans on the same oven rack. ing them on a rimmed baking sheet, and placing the sheet in a 450-degree oven. Thirty minutes later, 2 pounds fingerling potatoes, unpeeled the potatoes had deep patches of browning and the 3 tablespoons vegetable oil smaller ones were cooked through, but in general 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme the skins were tough, and some of the larger spuds 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage were still firm in the center. At such high heat, the 1/2 teaspoon table salt exteriors were drying out before the larger potatoes had a chance to cook through. In addition, the 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat potatoes weren’t covering the entire baking sheet, oven to 450 degrees. In 13 by 9-inch baking pan, allowing the residual oil on the sheet’s exposed toss potatoes with oil until evenly coated. Arrange surface to polymerize in the hot oven—and polym‑ We roast fingerlings whole for a sophisticated side. potatoes in even layer. Cover pan tightly with erized oil is very difficult to clean. Instead, I moved aluminum foil. Transfer pan to oven and roast for the fingerlings to a 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan, I knew that crowding the potatoes would cause 15 minutes. where they fit snugly in a single layer. them to steam a bit, but that would be a good 2. Carefully remove foil (steam will escape). Shake thing, helping them cook through without turning pan and continue to roast, uncovered, until potatoes leathery. In fact, I covered the pan with aluminum are spotty brown and tender and largest potato can foil to trap the steam. After 15 minutes, the tip of a be pierced easily with tip of paring knife, about knife easily pierced the largest potato, so I removed 20 minutes longer, shaking pan halfway through the foil and continued to roast the fingerlings so the roasting. skins could take on some color, shaking the pan a 3. While potatoes roast, chop thyme, sage, and salt few times to ensure that they browned evenly. until finely minced and well combined. Transfer pota‑ About 20 minutes later, I could see that this toes and any oil to bowl and toss with herb mixture approach worked: Both the large and small spuds until evenly coated. Transfer potatoes to platter. Let were tender and creamy. Most varieties of fin‑ cool for 5 minutes before serving. gerlings are waxy, and waxy potatoes hold their moisture better than, say, floury russets, so it’s hard ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES to dry them out. The extra steam from the larger WITH PARSLEY, LEMON, AND GARLIC potatoes also helped the smaller ones cook through. TECHNIQUE EVEN SEASONING To dress up my perfectly roasted fingerlings, Substitute 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, Instead of seasoning the fingerlings with salt I coated them with seasonings that would stick 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, and 1 minced garlic prior to roasting, we combine the salt with herbs to their skin. For a simple yet classic combination, clove for thyme and sage. and chop them to create an herb-salt blend. I tossed chopped thyme and sage leaves with the The increased volume makes it easier to evenly roasted potatoes in a bowl, where their heady fra‑ ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES distribute the ingredients after roasting. grances wafted up as they hit the hot spuds. WITH PECORINO AND BLACK PEPPER But it was tricky to evenly disperse the small amount of herbs. For the next batch, I held off on Omit thyme and sage. Once cooked potatoes STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND adding salt prior to roasting the potatoes and instead have been transferred to bowl in step 3, toss with NUTRITION INFORMATION added it to the herbs before I minced them. The 2 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano, 2 teaspoons CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 increased volume made the ingredients easier to pepper, and salt. Sprinkle potatoes with another

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: distribute evenly. 2 tablespoons grated Pecorino before serving.

2019 annual 69 New-School Sautéed Mushrooms Want savory, meaty-textured, deeply browned mushrooms without a lot of work, time, or even oil? Start by adding water.

j BY LAN LAM k

ou don’t have to be a professional Full Steam Ahead chef to know that “sauté” means Thanks to the discoveries we made while to sear food in a small amount of developing our recipe for Caramelized hot fat so that it browns deeply Onions (September/October 2017), Yand develops savory flavor. So you might I had a good idea of what to do: Start wonder how I—a professional chef—came by adding water—not oil—to the skillet to conclude that the most important step with the mushrooms. This might sound when sautéing mushrooms­ is to first sim‑ counterintuitive since the whole idea of mer them in water. browning is to eliminate moisture so To explain, let me start by recounting that food can rise above 212 degrees and what typically happens when you sauté the browning reactions can take place. mushrooms. You heat a little oil in a skillet, But as with onions, surrounding the throw in the sliced fungi, and toss them mushrooms with steam from the get-go around. Pretty soon, there’s no oil left in the would mean that all of the mushrooms skillet, so you add a little more to lubricate would start cooking right away. Their the pan and encourage the browning that cells would rupture sooner so that creates loads of new, rich-tasting flavor the mushrooms could rapidly exude compounds. But mushrooms suck up oil moisture—the step that’s the requisite like crazy, and you find yourself adding more precursor to browning. and more. Then, just as browning seems to So I loaded up my 12-inch nonstick be getting underway, the mushrooms start skillet with a little more than a pound of to release their abundant moisture. Only sliced white button mushrooms (enough once all of their jus has evaporated—which to yield about 4 servings) and 1/4 cup of takes a lot of time and frequent stirring so water. I cranked the heat to high and, the process happens evenly among all the sure enough, within moments the liquid slices—can browning start in earnest. But in the pan turned gray—proof that the by that time, you’ve already added so much Serve these deeply flavored mushrooms as a side dish or use them as an mushrooms were giving up their jus. After fat to the pan that you may as well have omelet filling or as a topping for polenta, steak, or crostini. only 5 minutes and just occasional stirring, deep‑fried the mushrooms. that liquid had evaporated and the mound The problem is that mushrooms are full of meaty-tasting, well-browned mushrooms—not of mushrooms that I’d started with had reduced air pockets that readily absorb oil. And all that spongy oil receptacles—I’d have to start by quickly enough to fit in a single layer across the skillet’s water they contain thwarts browning. To yield ridding them of all that air and water. cooking surface. From there, I proceeded with a typical sauté method, drizzling several tablespoons of oil over Expand Your Mushroom Universe the mushrooms to speed browning and letting Most people’s go-to mushrooms are white, cremini, portobello, and maybe shiitake. These are all excellent them sizzle over medium-high heat until they mushrooms with deep earthy flavor, but our sautéed mushroom recipes are a good opportunity to try two developed good color. other varieties that are increasingly available in supermarkets: oyster and maitake. Oyster mushrooms (second from right), recognizable by their fan-shaped caps, boast a clean savory flavor; they are often sold with their Oil Spill stems connected at the base. Maitake mushrooms (far right), which are also known as hen‑of‑the-woods, have But, surprisingly, multiple tablespoons of fat now frilly caps; their stems may also be connected at the base. They seemed like way too much. Instead of readily feature a nutty, slightly smoky flavor. All these mushrooms can soaking up the oil and leaving just enough to be used on their own or in combination in our recipes. lubricate the pan and encourage browning, as they do when sautéed the typical way, the mushrooms didn’t absorb much oil at all. In fact, much of the oil remained in the pan, so the mushrooms cooked up grease-slicked. I ran a series of tests in which I incrementally decreased the amount of oil I added to the pan after the water evaporated, and I was stunned to discover

that a mere 1/2 teaspoon was all I needed to prevent KLISE STEVE PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 70 Is It Bad to Wash Reinventing Sautéed Mushrooms: Add Lots Mushrooms? of Liquid (Twice) Years ago, we weighed white mushrooms before and after submerging them in water and found that the fungi soaked up very little water during their wash. That’s because mushrooms are built to repel water—if they didn’t, they’d turn to mush in the first rain. They use several methods to keep dry, including secreting specialized proteins called hydrophobins. To find out if other types of mush- rooms are just as water-resistant, we expanded our original test, first weighing batches of white, ADD WATER FIRST; ADD OIL LATER ADD BROTH; REDUCE TO A GLAZE cremini, portobello, shiitake, oyster, and maitake Steam cooks the mushrooms quickly so they collapse and We sauté aromatics in 1 tablespoon of butter, deglaze mushrooms and then submerging each batch in release liquid. After the mushroom jus evaporates, we add the pan, and then simmer the mushrooms in 1/2 cup of water for 1 minute. We removed the mushrooms just 1/2 teaspoon of oil to brown the mushrooms. broth until it reduces to a silky, emulsified glaze. and blotted them dry before weighing them again. It turns out that mushroom gills hold a lot of water in their folds. Portobello and shiitake mush- droplets of fat—a clear sign that simply tossing the 1/4 teaspoon pepper rooms, which have lots of exposed gills, held on butter-wine mixture with the mushrooms hadn’t 1/4 cup red wine to two to three times as much water as white and thoroughly emulsified the sauce. 1 tablespoon cider vinegar cremini mushrooms. Oyster mushrooms, with The problem was that there was very little sauce 1/2 cup chicken broth the most gills per square inch, held a whopping compared to the volume of mushrooms in the pan, 25 percent of their weight in water. which made it difficult to vigorously stir the mix‑ 1. Cook mushrooms and water in 12-inch non‑ (The takeaway: For our sautéed mushroom ture and incorporate the butter. So going forward stick skillet over high heat, stirring occasionally, until recipe, which starts with adding water, it’s fine to I added 1/2 cup of chicken broth after the deglazing skillet is almost dry and mushrooms begin to sizzle, wash any mushrooms, though gill-heavy mush- liquid had evaporated, and I let the buttery broth 4 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium‑high. Add rooms may take significantly longer to cook. For simmer until it had reduced by about half and the oil and toss until mushrooms are evenly coated. more-traditional techniques such as roasting, fat had emulsified into the liquid. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mush‑ avoid washing mushrooms with lots of exposed These were the dinner party–worthy sautéed rooms are well browned, 4 to 8 minutes longer. gills (oyster, portobello, maitake, and shiitake). mushrooms I’d had in mind: well browned, meaty Reduce heat to medium. Instead, simply brush off any dirt with a pastry textured, flavor packed, and lightly glossed with 2. Push mushrooms to sides of skillet. Add but‑ brush or a wet paper towel. –L.L. a buttery glaze. I checked that the recipe worked ter to center. When butter has melted, add shallot, with portobello, cremini, and shiitake mushrooms rosemary, salt, and pepper to center and cook, stir‑ and, to make it even more special, tried subbing in ring constantly, until aromatic, about 30 seconds. oyster and maitake mushrooms, varieties that are Add wine and vinegar and stir mixture into mush‑ increasingly available in supermarkets. I also pulled rooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has together a few more simple sauces to give the dish evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add broth and cook, 1 TABLESPOON 1/4 CUP some real bandwidth. stirring occasionally, until glaze is reduced by half, Amount of water Amount of water absorbed by 1 pound of absorbed by 1 pound of about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to white mushrooms oyster mushrooms SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS WITH taste, and serve. RED WINE AND ROSEMARY SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS WITH sticking and help accelerate browning. Why? Because MUSTARD AND PARSLEY while raw mushrooms contain air pockets that readily Use one variety of mushroom or a combination. soak up oil, cooking the mushrooms before adding Stem and halve portobello mushrooms and cut Omit rosemary. Substitute 1 tablespoon Dijon oil collapses those air pockets so that they can’t each half crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Trim white mustard for wine and increase vinegar to 11/2 table‑ absorb nearly as much. or cremini mushrooms; quarter them if large or spoons (liquid will take only 1 to 2 minutes to medium or halve them if small. Tear trimmed oyster evaporate). Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Butter Them Up mushrooms into 1- to 11/2‑inch pieces. Stem shii‑ parsley before serving. Now that I had a method for sautéing mushrooms take mushrooms; quarter large caps and halve small that was not only efficient but also downright caps. Cut trimmed maitake (hen-of-the-woods) SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS WITH lean, I felt justified in lavishing the mushrooms mushrooms into 1- to 11/2‑inch pieces. You can SOY, SCALLION, AND GINGER with a glossy butter-based glaze. substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth, Once they were well browned, I lowered the heat if desired. Substitute 1 thinly sliced scallion for shallot and to medium and pushed the mushrooms to the sides grated fresh ginger for rosemary. Omit salt. of the pan to clear a space. In went a tablespoon of 11/4 pounds mushrooms Substitute 2 tablespoons soy sauce for wine and butter and some minced shallot and rosemary to lend 1/4 cup water sherry vinegar for cider vinegar. the dish depth and fragrance, followed by red wine 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil and cider vinegar to deglaze the pan. 1 tablespoon unsalted butter STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND I gave the contents a stir to evenly coat the 1 shallot, minced NUTRITION INFORMATION mushrooms with the sauce, but on closer inspection 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE (LEFT), JAY LAYMAN (TOP RIGHT) (TOP LAYMAN JAY (LEFT), JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: I noticed that the mushrooms were coated with 1/4 teaspoon table salt

2019 annual 71 Spanish Potatoes with Olive Oil Lush, tender patatas panaderas deserve to be better known outside their homeland.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

t’s widely accepted culinary arith‑ browning, I loosely covered the dish but left the metic: Potatoes plus oil plus heat sides open so that the vapor could escape. I also equals browned crispness. Think hash lowered the oven temperature to a more moderate browns, , and roasted 350 degrees. These changes summed up to a win‑ potatoes.I But Spanish cooks make a potato ning version of patatas panaderas: blond all over, dish that defies standard mathematics; their velvety, and full of flavor. patatas panaderas (translation: “bakers’ potatoes”) add up to meltingly tender SPANISH POTATOES WITH OLIVE OIL potatoes with nary a hint of browning. AND WINE (PATATAS PANADERAS) (That’s a good thing—I’ll explain.) SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS It comes together easily: Thin slices of peeled potato are scattered with onions and For the best results, be sure to use a fresh, high‑quality garlic, bathed in extra-virgin olive oil and extra‑virgin olive oil here. We like Bertolli Extra sometimes white wine, and then piled into Virgin Olive Oil, Original, Rich Taste and California a pan and baked. The oil adds richness with‑ Olive Ranch Destination Series Everyday Extra out making the dish, well, oily, and the lack Virgin Olive Oil. We developed this recipe using of browning means that the earthiness of Diamond Crystal kosher salt; if using Morton kosher the potatoes comes through loud and clear. salt, decrease the amount to 2⅝ teaspoons. To make I peeled and thinly sliced 21/2 pounds of peeling and slicing easier, choose larger potatoes. Yukon Gold potatoes—their moderately These potatoes make an excellent accompaniment waxy, buttery flesh makes them the closest to roasted fish or pork. thing we have to the yellow Monalisa and A few simple ingredients make up this earthy side dish. Álava varieties commonly used for this dish 21/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and in Spain—and then coated the slices in 1/4 cup of baking dish that I covered tightly with aluminum sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick extra‑virgin olive oil. I stirred in plenty of salt and foil and slid into a 400-degree oven. After an hour, 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil pepper, a thinly sliced onion, and some minced garlic the potatoes were beautifully tender but a touch 31/2 teaspoons kosher salt and then transferred the mixture to a 13 by 9-inch dry. Bumping up the oil to 1/3 cup made the dish 1/4 teaspoon pepper luxuriously rich and moist. 1 onion, halved and sliced thin I was eager to see if a bit of wine would comple‑ 2 garlic cloves, minced SCIENCE Potato Breakdown ment the simple seasonings, so I stirred 1/2 cup of a 1/2 cup dry white wine Acid strengthens the pectin that holds potato dry white wine into the next batch. But when I lifted cells together. That means that if wine is added the foil after an hour, the potatoes were too firm. 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat at the start of cooking, the potatoes will not As I looked over the recipes I found in my research, oven to 400 degrees. Stir potatoes and oil in large adequately soften. We add the wine only once I noticed a correlation: Those with wine called for bowl until potatoes are evenly coated. Stir in salt and the potatoes are tender. parcooking the potatoes before adding the wine. pepper until well distributed. Stir in onion and gar‑ After reading some scientific literature on the topic, lic. Transfer potato mixture to 13 by 9-inch baking it all made sense: The problem was the wine—or, dish and spread into even layer. Cover tightly with more specifically, the acid in the wine, which can aluminum foil and bake until potatoes can be easily hinder the softening of potatoes (for a full explana‑ pierced with tip of paring knife, about 40 minutes. tion, see “Potato Breakdown”). Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. I really wanted to keep the wine, and happily, 2. Carefully remove foil and set aside. Pour wine parcooking wouldn’t necessarily mean pulling out evenly over potatoes. Lightly place reserved foil WINE ADDED AT THE START a saucepan. Some recipes simply withheld the wine on top of dish, leaving sides open so moisture can Still firm after 1 hour until the potatoes had softened under their foil escape, and return dish to oven. Bake until wine cover, so I tried that. After 40 minutes, I poured has evaporated or been absorbed (there will still the wine over the tender potatoes and left the dish be some oil bubbling around edges of dish), about uncovered for the remaining 20 minutes of cooking 20 minutes. Carefully remove foil. Let cool for so that the alcohol could evaporate a bit, leaving the 10 minutes and serve. wine’s faint sweet‑tart flavor behind. Unfortunately, these potatoes had a leathery STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND WINE ADDED AT THE END brown top that interfered with the lush-and‑ NUTRITION INFORMATION Tender after 40 minutes tender‑throughout effect I was going for. To allow CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19

the excess moisture to evaporate while discouraging TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 72 Pan-Steamed Asparagus We combined two cooking methods to make tender, crisp, flavorful asparagus.

j BY SANDRA WU k

sparagus cooks in a snap and needs After 2 minutes, the asparagus was bright green but little more than butter and salt to make still crunchy. I removed the lid and stirred occasion‑ it shine. And while I like the nuttiness ally until the pan was almost dry and the pieces were that roasting brings to asparagus, it’s crisp‑tender, which took about another 2 minutes. alsoA nice to pay homage to spring by preserving its This pan-steamed asparagus tasted great, but gar‑ bright green color and grassy flavor. Steaming is lic would make it a little more interesting. I added a one way to accomplish this, but I’ve never found minced clove after I removed the lid, but it clumped the method entirely satisfying; it tends to wash since there wasn’t much fat in the pan. Next, I tried out the vegetable’s already delicate flavor and adding the garlic along with the water and salt. leave the spears wet and plain-tasting. This helped the garlic distribute more evenly, and it How about sautéing the asparagus in butter? The cooked just enough to lose its raw edge. fat would thoroughly coat the spears and add flavor, I loved the dish’s ease and simplicity, so I set and if I was careful about moving the asparagus about creating a few variations that were just as around the pan, I could prevent browning. First, quick and uncomplicated. Now I can celebrate the I trimmed the ends from 2 pounds of asparagus season with a variety of interesting asparagus dishes, and peeled the spears’ bottom halves (see “Don’t all cooked in mere minutes. Snap Asparagus; Peel It”). To fit the spears in the pan, I cut them on the bias into 2-inch lengths. PAN-STEAMED ASPARAGUS WITH GARLIC I then melted butter in a nonstick skillet over SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES medium-high heat and added the asparagus. As long as I stirred frequently, the pieces ended up This recipe works best with asparagus spears that are uniformly bright green. However, they were unevenly about 1/2 inch thick. If using thinner spears, reduce cooked—some had the crisp-tender texture I wanted, the uncovered cooking time to 11/2 to 2 minutes. while others were still crunchy. What if I added a Peeling the bottom halves of the spears ensures that Butter and garlic dress up these crisp-tender spears. little water to the pan to allow them to steam, so the cooked asparagus is tender. This recipe can easily they cooked through more evenly, but not so much be halved; use a 10-inch skillet if you halve the recipe. PAN-STEAMED ASPARAGUS that the added liquid washed away flavor? If I allowed WITH LEMON AND PARMESAN the water to evaporate, no flavor would be lost at all. 2 pounds asparagus I melted a tablespoon of butter in the skillet, 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Combine 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 table‑ added a couple of tablespoons of water and some salt 2 tablespoons water spoon juice and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Stir (another downside of conventional steaming is that 1 garlic clove, minced lemon zest mixture into asparagus and sprinkle with you can’t season as you cook), and covered the pan. 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1/4 cup shredded Parmesan before serving.

1. Trim bottom inch of asparagus spears; dis‑ PAN-STEAMED ASPARAGUS DON’T SNAP ASPARAGUS; card trimmings. Peel bottom halves of spears until WITH MINT AND ALMONDS PEEL IT white flesh is exposed. Cut spears on bias into 2-inch We found that when you snap off the bottoms lengths. Melt butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over Combine 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint, 2 teaspoons of asparagus spears, you lose an average of half medium-high heat. Add water, garlic, and salt and sherry vinegar, and 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika in their weight. We prefer to trim the bottom inch, stir to combine. Add asparagus, shaking skillet to small bowl. Stir mint mixture into asparagus and which gets rid of the driest, woodiest part of evenly distribute. Cover and cook, without stirring, sprinkle with 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted, cooled, the spear, and then peel the bottom half of each for 2 minutes. and lightly crushed, just before serving. spear until the white flesh is exposed. The spears 2. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occa‑ look prettier, and the net loss of weight is less sionally, until skillet is almost dry and asparagus is PAN-STEAMED ASPARAGUS than 30 percent. crisp-tender, 21/2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to WITH SHALLOTS AND HERBS bowl and serve. LESS WASTE Substitute 1/4 cup minced shallots for garlic. Stir WHEN YOU PAN-STEAMED ASPARAGUS WITH 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives and 2 teaspoons TRIM AND ANCHOVIES AND RED PEPPER FLAKES chopped fresh dill into asparagus before serving. PEEL

Substitute extra-virgin olive oil for butter and heat STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND until shimmering. Add 2 rinsed and minced anchovy NUTRITION INFORMATION fillets and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes to skillet with CooksIllustrated.com/APR19

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: garlic. Decrease salt to 1/4 teaspoon.

2019 annual 73 Swiss Chard and Kale Gratin For a new holiday side, we gussy up greens with a touch of cream and a crisp topping.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

enjoy greens for their earthy sweetness, but 1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position on their own they can be rather austere. So and heat oven to 375 degrees. Stem chard, then cut when I wanted a greens-based side dish for stems into 2-inch lengths and set aside. Slice leaves the holidays, I opted for a gratin. You don’t into 1-inch-wide strips. Bring 2 cups water to boil comeI across green gratins every day, and when you in Dutch oven over high heat. Add kale, cover, and do they’re often drowned in cream, like creamed reduce heat to medium-high. Cook until kale is spinach. I wanted my gratin to be just a little richer wilted, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through than I normally make greens: I’d parcook the cooking. Add chard leaves, cover, and continue to leaves, add some dairy and a bread-crumb topping, cook until chard is wilted, about 4 minutes longer, and finish everything in the oven. stirring halfway through cooking. Transfer to colander One of the big challenges here is that most types set in sink and let drain. (Do not wash pot.) of greens wilt down significantly when cooked: You 2. Pulse garlic in food processor until coarsely start with an abundance and end up with a dearth. chopped, 5 to 7 pulses. Add bread and 3 tablespoons Some recipes compensate for this by adding potatoes oil and pulse until largest crumbs are smaller than or a second vegetable, but I wanted pure greens. ¼ inch (most will be much smaller), 8 to 10 pulses. To avoid a squat, dense gratin, I strategically Add Parmesan, 1/teaspoon salt, and 1/teaspoon selected two types of greens. First, curly kale: Its pepper and pulse to combine. Transfer to bowl. sturdy, ruffled leaves would maintain some structure 3. Add onion and chard stems to now-empty after cooking and keep the gratin sufficiently volumi- processor and process until finely chopped, scraping nous. Second, Swiss chard: Its delicate leaves collapse down sides of bowl as needed, 20 to 30 seconds. when cooked, but its plentiful tender stems can also Transfer to now-empty pot. Add thyme, remain- be softened to add bulk. In a 1:2 ratio, the gutsy kale ing 2 tablespoons oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and mineral-y chard made great flavor partners, too. The Swiss chard stems, blitzed in a food processor and and remaining 1/teaspoon pepper. Cook over To serve eight to 10 people, I needed 3 pounds of sautéed, add bulk to the casserole. medium‑high heat, stirring occasionally, until mois- greens, which meant that I’d need to parcook heaps ture has evaporated and mixture is just beginning to and heaps of leaves before assembling the gratin. I seasoned the crumbs with Parmesan and garlic and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Blanching or sautéing the leaves—the two strategies drizzled in some olive oil to help them crisp. Next 4. Using spatula, press gently on greens in colan- that most recipes call for—would require cooking in I transferred the creamy greens to a baking dish, der to remove excess moisture. Transfer greens to several smaller batches. Instead, I turned to steaming: sprinkled on the topping, and baked the casserole pot with onion mixture. Add cream and nutmeg and I brought 2 cups of water to boil in a Dutch oven, until it bubbled and browned. Here was a winning stir to combine. Transfer mixture to 13 by 9-inch loaded in the heftier kale, and covered the pot. After gratin for the holidays—or for any day. baking dish. Sprinkle bread-crumb mixture evenly 5 minutes, the kale had wilted enough for me to stir over surface. Bake until topping is golden brown and in the more delicate chard. This way, all the leaves SWISS CHARD AND KALE GRATIN filling bubbles around edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cooked efficiently and evenly. SERVES 8 TO 10 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS cool for 10 minutes before serving. As the greens drained, I considered the dairy com- TO MAKE AHEAD: Filling and bread-crumb ponent, which for a gratin is often cream thickened Do not use rainbow chard for this recipe; it will have topping can be refrigerated in separate airtight con- with a roux. But every iteration I tried was stodgy. a muddy-brown color when cooked. The greens tainers for up to 24 hours. Increase baking time by Why not skip the roux and simply pour in the cream? should not be completely dry after pressing in step 4. 5 to 10 minutes. I added only as much cream (spiced with fresh nut- meg) as the parcooked leaves could hold without 2 pounds Swiss chard making the gratin liquid-y, which amounted to 1 pound curly kale, stemmed and cut into Two Greens Are Better 1 cup. The cream just coated the greens, contribut- 1-inch-wide strips Than One ing silky richness without masking the vegetal flavors. 2 garlic cloves, peeled To keep our gratin from collapsing into a compact For the topping, I pulsed rustic white bread in a 4 ounces rustic white bread, cut into 3/4-inch mat, we include two types of greens. food processor to create craggy crumbs. (While the cubes (3 cups) processor was out, I used it to finely chop an onion 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided and the chard stems, which I then sautéed with 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup) fresh thyme and stirred into the steamed greens.) 3/4 teaspoon table salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon pepper, divided Swiss chard leaves Kale maintains some 1 onion, chopped coarse STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND wilt significantly but structure after cooking, NUTRITION INFORMATION 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme contribute mineral-y keeping the gratin CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 1 cup heavy cream flavor and silky texture. voluminous and light.

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 74 Our Favorite Challah Ritual and muscle memory have carried this soft, rich Jewish loaf through generations. But to make a dough that’s workable for everyone, we found it best to defy tradition.

j BY LAN LAM k

think I speak for all my colleagues and pliable and then cover it and let it rise when I say that we occasionally until doubled in size—the visual cue that doubt our ability to add value to a the yeast has consumed sugars in the dough cooking technique. But challah was and released gas that causes the dough to theI assignment that really gave me pause. expand. Then you press out the air, which That’s partly because the enriched, glossy eliminates large air bubbles, encourages a braid is a cultural heavyweight. More than fine crumb, and redistributes the yeast and just a fixture at Ashkenazi Jewish holiday sugars so they can continue their activity tables, it’s a biblically significant bread during the second rise. Finally, you divide steeped in age-old rituals, symbolism, and the dough into even lengths that you roll strong opinions. When I polled a few into long ropes. You braid the strands, let well‑versed colleagues and experts about the dough rise again, brush the surface with what qualities challah should have, I received an egg wash, and bake it until the crust a flurry of disparate answers: The crumb shines like polished mahogany. should be fluffy or densely chewy. It should Hoping that three whole eggs and 1/cup taste rich and sweet (acclaimed food writer of oil would amply enrich the dough, Mimi Sheraton once described challah as I homed in on my main focus: how to turn “a brioche-like confection that falls just this this moist dough into something more side of cake”) or only slightly so. It should workable. The consistency of a dough is have raisins—or definitely not have raisins. measured in percent hydration—the amount There’s also the fact that countless chal- of water relative to the amount of flour. lah recipes have been published, and even During baking, the water turns to steam, more get passed through the diaspora via which acts as a leavening agent by opening word of mouth and muscle memory. So up the crumb so that the bread is light and I wasn’t sure what I—someone who really soft. The hydration levels of the recipes enjoys challah but didn’t grow up making I found ranged from 45 percent to more it—could contribute to the conversation. than 60 percent, or about 4.5 to 6 parts But as it turned out, my inexperience was water to every 10 parts flour. Doughs at the an asset. When I shaped and baked a few low end of that range were drier than your loaves to familiarize myself with the process, average dough, presumably to make I zeroed in on challenges that might not faze them easy to handle, but nobody wants a seasoned challah baker. For example: the challah with bagel‑like density. The nicest relationship between the workability of the loaves I made came in at 55 to 60 percent, dough and the texture of the baked bread. so I considered that my benchmark and got Moist doughs sagged and stuck together, to work on a seemingly impossible task: making messy braids but resulting in a soft, making a moist dough handle like a drier, tender crumb. Recipes that tried to solve the Lightly salting the egg wash makes it looser and easier to apply to the firmer dough. problem produced drier, firmer doughs that surface, guaranteeing an evenly burnished crust. I started by asking myself what helps a were easy to handle but baked up dense and dough become less soft and sticky so it’s a bit tough. Then there was the braiding technique Wait for It easier to handle. Part of the answer was a stronger itself: Even the simplest weave takes practice, and the As go, challah isn’t difficult to make. There’s gluten network, the mesh of interlinked proteins that loaf might still bake up misshapen or squat. no starter to feed, the kneading can be done in a stand forms when water and flour are combined, giving What I wanted was a plush, resilient crumb that mixer, and a loaf can be made from start to finish bread its structure. Up to a point, the more extensive struck that perfect—but rarely achieved—balance of in an afternoon. All you do is combine bread flour, and tightly organized this mesh is, the firmer and moderate sweetness and richness; a tall, tidy braid; and instant yeast, eggs and/or egg yolks, water, sugar, less sticky the dough. Since kneading the dough a recipe that would win over rookies and experts alike. salt, and vegetable oil in a mixer. (Challah is made helps build and strengthen the network, I could try with oil, not butter, because it is pareve—a Jewish kneading for longer. But in the stand mixer, I risked STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND dietary term meaning that it is prepared without dairy overheating the dough, which can produce off‑flavors NUTRITION INFORMATION or meat products and is, thus, permissible to be eaten when the dough proofs. Instead, I introduced a CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 with either dairy or meat at a meal.) Once you have a French bread-baking trick called autolyse, a brief rest

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: cohesive mass, you knead the dough until it is smooth between mixing and kneading that we often use in

2019 annual 75 SCIENCE MAKING A MOIST DOUGH HANDLE LIKE A DRY DOUGH follow and produced a loftier loaf: Instead of lining up the strands parallel to one another, which makes them hard to tell apart, point them in different directions so that they’re easier to keep track of. While I was at it, I also tried a braided round that’s traditional for Rosh Hashanah. (See “How to Braid Challah” and “Round for Rosh Hashanah.”) I lightly covered the braid with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out during its second rise. When it was fully proofed, I moved it to a rimmed baking sheet, brushed it with a lightly salted egg wash (salt prevents the egg proteins from clinging to one another, making a looser wash that’s easier to apply), WITH GEL WITHOUT GEL and baked the challah in a 350-degree oven for half The dough is malleable but firm. The dough is slack and sticky. an hour. The braid was tall, but the underside of the Adding plenty of water to challah dough makes for a supremely soft, moist bread—and usually a very loose, loaf was too dark. Going forward, I baked the bread sticky dough. But our challah dough is both well hydrated and easy to handle because we employ a unique on a pair of nested baking sheets, which created an bread‑baking technique called tangzhong. The key is to cook a portion of the flour and water, which causes the air gap that insulated the underside from burning. starch molecules to absorb more water than they would at room temperature and form a gel that’s then added The statuesque, burnished braid hid a crumb that to the dough. The water trapped in the gel won’t contribute to stickiness, resulting in a dough that feels drier. was golden, fluffy, and gently elastic—perfect for slicing thick and slathering with butter. (Leftovers, if there are any, make exceptional French toast or stuff- bread doughs. During this rest, enzymes in the flour yeast, and water made the dough much easier to ing.) Maybe the challah-baking tradition has room snip the gluten proteins, helping them uncoil so that handle, and when I tried again after removing two for this new-school baker after all. they can more efficiently line up and link together. of the egg whites (a source of water), the dough We also help the process along by withholding the firmed up even more. I also decided to see if I could CHALLAH sugar and salt—ingredients that inhibit the enzymatic decrease the oil, which softens the dough, and found MAKES 1 LOAF TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS, activity—from the dough until after the rest. I could cut it by half and still produce challah that PLUS 7 HOURS RESTING AND COOLING With the autolyse, my dough was firmer but not was cotton-candy plush. (But about those raisins: very extensible; when I rolled out the lengths for They robbed the dough of its moisture, turning the We strongly recommend weighing the flour for this braiding, they snapped back or even tore if I applied baked crumb dry. They were officially out.) recipe. This dough will be firmer and drier than most too much pressure. So I next looked closely at the bread doughs, which makes it easy to braid. Some dough’s first rise, known as bulk fermentation. This Braid and Bake friction is necessary for rolling and braiding the ropes, long rest is crucial for building structure because more For a -worthy braid, I started by rolling the so resist the urge to dust your counter with flour. gluten develops. However, times vary, and I had sturdy, pliable dough into four long, even ropes If your counter is too narrow to stretch the ropes, admittedly tried a relatively quick 1-hour rest. When (two- and three-strand loaves look less impressive, slightly bend the pieces at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock I tacked on another 30 minutes, there was no more but braiding more than four strands is tricky). From positions. Bake this loaf on two nested baking sheets snapping back or tearing. But the dough was still here, you typically align the ropes parallel to one to keep the bottom of the loaf from getting too dark. sticking—to the counter, to my hands, and to itself. another, pinch them together at the top end, weave them together via a series of over-under movements, Flour Paste Now We’re Gelling pinch the loose ends, and tuck the ends under the 1/2 cup water This might have been the point at which I conceded loaf. But even with four strands, I found that this 3 tablespoons bread flour that challah is better left to the experts. But I realized produced a flat loaf with one bulky end where the that the qualities I wanted in the dough—malleability tucked dough bunched up under the braid. And, Dough and moistness—were the same ones we’d wanted in frankly, the braiding process made my head spin. 1 large egg plus 2 large yolks our Fluffy Dinner Rolls (January/February 2016) The solution to the uneven shape was to taper the ¼ cup water and Sticky Buns (May/June 2016). And the solution rope ends to minimize bulk when they were tucked 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in those cases—an Asian bread-baking technique under the loaf after braiding—a trick I learned from 23/4 cups (151/8 ounces) bread flour called tangzhong—couldn’t have been further from veteran challah baker Mike Lombardo at Rosenfeld’s 1¼ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast challah tradition. in Newton, , one of the experts ¼ cup (13/4 ounces) sugar Free water that hasn’t been absorbed by starch is I’d spoken with during my research. Lombardo also 1 teaspoon table salt what makes dough sticky. The gist of the tangzhong introduced me to a braiding method that was easier to Vegetable oil spray method is to cook some of the water in the recipe with some of the flour. Heat causes the starch molecules to separate from each other and absorb more water than The Origin of “Challah” they would at room temperature. The resulting gel is Long before it named the soft, eggy Jewish holiday bread, the word “challah” referred to a mitzvah (a then added to the dough. The water trapped in the Hebrew commandment). According to the Torah, Jewish bakers in the time of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem gel won’t contribute to stickiness, and the upshot is a were to tear off a small portion of dough—the challah—from any type of risen loaf and give it to the temple dough that feels drier and is easier to handle. priests as part of their salary. These days, observant Jews and some kosher still practice “taking I tinkered with the proportions for the gel before challah” by wrapping the separated lump of dough in aluminum foil and burning it in the oven while they settling on 1/2 cup of water heated with 3 table- recite a blessing. spoons of flour. Mixing it with the eggs, oil, flour,

cook’s illustrated 76 STEP BY STEP HOW TO BRAID CHALLAH Our unconventional braiding method is easier to follow than those of most recipes and produces a loftier loaf.

A C C

D D D

B B B B

D A A C C

1. Arrange ropes in plus-sign shape, 2. Lift rope at 12 o’clock, bring over 3. Lift rope at 6 o’clock, bring over 4. Lift rope at 9 o’clock, bring over with 4 ends overlapping in center by center, and place in 5 o’clock position. center, and place in 12 o’clock position. center, and place in 4 o’clock position. 1/2 inch. Firmly press center of cross into counter to seal ropes to each other and to counter. C C

B

B D D A A

5. Lift rope at 3 o’clock and, working 6. Adjust ropes so they are at 12, 3, 6, 7. Continue braiding, working toward 8. Pinch ends of ropes together. Tuck toward yourself, bring over braid and and 9 o’clock positions. Repeat steps yourself, until you can no longer braid. both ends under braid. place in 8 o’clock position. 2 through 6. Loaf will naturally list to 1 side.

Egg Wash lengthwise to form 2 rectangles. Cut each rectangle and salt. Brush loaf with egg wash and sprinkle 1 large egg in half lengthwise to form 4 equal strips of dough. with sesame seeds, if using. Bake until loaf is deep Pinch table salt Roll 1 strip of dough into 16-inch rope. Continue golden brown and registers at least 195 degrees, 1 tablespoon sesame seeds or poppy seeds rolling, tapering ends, until rope is 18 inches long. 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool on sheets for 20 minutes. (optional) Repeat with remaining dough strips. Arrange ropes in Transfer loaf to wire rack and let cool completely plus‑sign shape, with 4 ends overlapping in center by before slicing, about 2 hours. 1. FOR THE FLOUR PASTE: Whisk water and 1/2 inch. Firmly press center of cross into counter flour in bowl until no lumps remain. Microwave, to seal ropes to each other and to counter. whisking every 20 seconds, until mixture thickens 5. Lift rope at 12 o’clock, bring over cen- to stiff, smooth, pudding-like consistency that forms ter, and place in 5 o’clock position. Lift rope mound when dropped from end of whisk into bowl, at 6 o’clock, bring over center, and place in 40 to 80 seconds. 12 o’clock position. 2. FOR THE DOUGH: In bowl of stand mixer, 6. Lift rope at 9 o’clock, bring over center, whisk flour paste, egg and yolks, water, and oil until and place in 4 o’clock position. Lift rope at well combined. Add flour and yeast. Fit mixer with 3 o’clock and, working toward yourself, bring dough hook and mix on low speed until all flour is over braid and place in 8 o’clock position. Adjust moistened, 3 to 4 minutes. Let stand for 20 minutes. ropes so they are at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock 3. Add sugar and salt and mix on medium positions. speed for 9 minutes (dough will be quite firm and 7. Repeat steps 5 and 6, working toward dry). Transfer dough to counter and lightly spray yourself, until you can no longer braid. Loaf now-empty mixer bowl with oil spray. Knead dough will naturally list to 1 side. briefly to form ball and return it to prepared bowl. 8. Pinch ends of ropes together and tuck both Round for Rosh Hashanah Lightly spray dough with oil spray and cover bowl ends under braid. Carefully transfer braid to prepared There are many other challah shapes besides with plastic wrap. Let dough rise until about doubled sheets. Cover loosely with plastic and let rise until the long braid, one of the most common being in volume, about 11/2 hours. dough does not spring back fully when gently pressed a braided round. Traditional for Rosh Hashanah 4. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper with your knuckle, about 3 hours. (the Jewish New Year), it symbolizes continuity. and nest in second rimmed baking sheet. Transfer 9. FOR THE EGG WASH: Thirty minutes Web subscribers can find instructions for making dough to counter and press into 8-inch square, before baking, adjust oven rack to middle position this round loaf at CooksIllustrated.com/jun19. expelling as much air as possible. Cut dough in half and heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together egg

2019 annual 77 Quick and Easy Italian Flatbreads Meet piadine: the rustic, tender-chewy rounds that you can make without yeast, lengthy rising times, or even your oven.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

aking bread, whether it’s crusty baguettes or plush, buttery bri- oche, is incredibly rewarding. But it almost always takes a long time—and,M depending on the loaf, a lot of finesse. That’s why I love making flatbreads. With little to no yeast, these thin, rustic rounds come together fast and cook up even faster, sometimes right on the stovetop. And , the centuries-old Italian flat- bread, might be the easiest and fastest to make of all. Originally from the northern region of Emilia‑Romagna but now popular all over Italy, pia- dina (“little plate”) delivers a moist, tender chew that falls somewhere between the texture of a flour tortilla and that of an unpuffed pita. Traditionally, the dough was made from flour, salt, lard (Emilia‑Romagna is pig country), and water and the breads were baked on earthenware disks over an open fire. Contemporary recipes often call for leavening the dough with bak- ing powder and cooking the rounds in a cast-iron skillet on the stovetop, but the process is just as quick (about an hour) and straightforward: Mix the ingredients to form a smooth dough, let it rest briefly, Preheating the cast-iron skillet over medium heat ensures that the breads will brown quickly—but won’t burn. roll it into disks, poke them with a fork to prevent puffing, cook them until spotty brown on both sides, A Little Lift denser unleavened piadina. The baking powder was and eat them warm—usually folded around sandwich The first decision I wanted to make was whether in, and going forward I also rolled each round to fillings such as meats, cheeses, greens, or spreadable or not to include baking powder, since that would 9 inches in diameter, which helped them sit flat in the sweets such as Nutella or ricotta with honey. significantly affect the texture of the bread. skillet (the actual cooking surface of a 12-inch skillet A few ingredients, an hour’s work, and endless I mixed two batches of dough in the food proces- can be less than 10 inches, so a 9-inch round just fits). versatility? No wonder this bread enjoys a cultlike sor, adding 3/4 teaspoon of baking powder to one following (it has even been the subject of poetic batch along with the flour and salt. Then I worked Oil and Water verse). I could feel myself joining in the fervor even 1/3 cup of lard into each, followed by a slow stream Before decreasing the amount of fat in the dough, before I started cooking. of water that transformed the mixture into a soft I wanted to know if the lard was contributing some- dough. I shaped each batch into four balls, covered thing unique that other, more conventional fats them with plastic wrap, and let them sit for 30 min- didn’t offer. Lard? Oil? Doesn’t Matter utes so the gluten would relax and make rolling them I set up a four-way test of doughs made with Lard is the fat of choice in most piadine recipes because out easier. I then rolled them into 10-inch disks lard, butter, and vegetable and olive oils, and it was it’s traditional, not because it’s essential for a great dough. (a common size), poked them, and cooked one from immediately clear that there was neither a flavor nor Unless you use high-quality, flavorful lard, which gives each batch in a preheated 12-inch cast-iron skillet. a texture benefit to pastry and bread a subtle savoriness but can be hard to Both breads were tender and a bit too rich thanks the lard. (Meanwhile, (BOTTOM) PHOTO STOCK EASY STAR/ALAMY REALY find, lard tastes neutral. It doesn’t improve the texture to all that fat in the dough. But the leavened crumb the flavors of butter either. Often when we incorporate a saturated fat into a was softer and more open, preferred to that of the and olive oil were too baked good (such as flaky biscuits or pie dough), we use a high ratio of fat to flour and cut the fat into the flour in distinct pieces in order to A Poet Who Loved Piadine achieve flakiness. Neither is Romagnans cherish their native piadine with the same pride that Texans feel true for piadine: They need for smoky brisket, and have for centuries. In fact, 19th-century poet Giovanni only a small amount of fat, Pascoli canonized the flatbread in his work “La Piada,” describing it as “smooth which is fully processed into as paper, and as big as the moon.” These days, the region is still full of dedicated the dough, so the saturation TRADITIONAL— piadinari, who sling the flatbread as a quick lunch or snack. GIOVANNI PASCOLI

of the fat is irrelevant. BUT NOT NECESSARY © (TOP), TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 78 STEP BY STEP SHAPING AND (SKILLET-) BAKING PIADINE This soft, smooth dough rolls out easily, and cooking the rounds takes just minutes.

1. After briefly kneading dough, 2. Cup your hand over 1 ball and 3. After 30-minute rest, pat 4. Roll disks into 9-inch rounds, 5. Cook rounds for 1 to 2 min‑ divide it into 4 equal pieces and drag in circles until ball is taut and balls into 5-inch disks. flouring counter as needed to utes per side, until spotty brown shape into balls. smooth. Repeat with other balls. prevent sticking. Prick with fork. but still pliable. distinct.) The fact that there was no textural benefit You don’t have to fill them, though. Who doesn’t 2. Transfer dough to counter and gently knead was surprising, since swapping a saturated fat (such as love a swath of plush, fresh bread alongside a bowl until smooth, about 15 seconds. Divide dough into lard) for an unsaturated fat (such as vegetable oil) can of soup? Or a salad. Scrambled eggs. Soft cheese. 4 equal pieces and shape each into ball. Working with lead to disastrous results in some applications (such Creamy dips. The list goes on. And since you can 1 dough ball at a time, place ball seam side down on as pie dough or flaky biscuits). But here, with a lower basically make piadine on a whim, you should. clean counter and, using your cupped hand, drag in ratio of fat to flour in the dough, it didn’t matter, so small circles until ball is taut and smooth. Cover dough I opted for pantry-friendly vegetable oil. ITALIAN FLATBREADS (PIADINE) balls loosely with plastic wrap. Let rest for 30 minutes. From there, I made a batch of lean breads with MAKES 4 FLATBREADS 3. Pat 1 dough ball into 5-inch disk on lightly just 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, but they were dry TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES, PLUS 30 MINUTES RESTING floured counter (keep remaining dough balls cov- and tough, so I went up to 3 tablespoons, figuring ered). Roll disk into 9-inch round, flouring counter that would restore the crumb’s tenderness. But even We use pantry-friendly vegetable oil because the as needed to prevent sticking. Repeat with remaining then the bread was dry, so I stuck with 3 tablespoons flatbreads it makes are similar in flavor and texture to dough balls. of oil and increased the water from 2/3 cup to 3/4 cup. those made with traditional lard. If you’d prefer to 4. Heat 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium Without making the bread too sticky to handle, the use lard, increase the amount to ¼ cup to account heat until drop of water dripped onto surface sizzles extra liquid hydrated the dough and made it less for its lower density. Do not substitute butter or olive immediately, about 3 minutes. Prick 1 dough round dense so that the piadine were softer and more flex- oil; their flavors are obtrusive here. A nonstick skillet all over with fork, then carefully place in skillet. Cook ible but retained just enough chew. can be used in place of cast iron; increase the heat until underside is spotty brown, 1 to 2 minutes, using to medium-high and preheat the empty skillet with fork to pop any large bubbles that form. Flip round Into the Fold 1/2teaspoon of oil until shimmering; wipe out the oil and cook until second side is spotty brown, 1 to The piadine were great (especially when warm; before proceeding with the recipe. 2 minutes (flatbread should still be pliable). Transfer their softness and pliability are ephemeral) and piadina to plate, gently fold in half, and cover with almost ready for fillings, except that they tended to 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour clean dish towel to keep warm. Repeat with remain- char in spots instead of brown attractively. I’d been 3/4 teaspoon baking powder ing dough rounds, stacking piadine and re-covering preheating my cast-iron skillet over a strong flame, 1/2 teaspoon table salt with towel as they finish. Serve warm. (Piadine can so I ran a couple of lower-heat tests and found 3 tablespoons vegetable oil be stored in zipper-lock bag for up to 2 days. Reheat that moderate heat was the way to go; turning the 3/4 cup water in cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for 20 to burner to low caused the breads to dry out before 30 seconds per side, until warmed through.) they had a chance to brown. 1. Process flour, baking powder, and salt in food I kept the breads folded in half under a clean dish processor until combined, about 5 seconds. Add STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND towel so that they held their heat and their shape oil and process until no visible bits of fat remain, NUTRITION INFORMATION (think “training” a rolled cake), which made them about 10 seconds. With processor running, slowly CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 easy to fill with thin slices of rich, salty cured meats; add water; process until most of dough forms soft, cheeses; or vegetables and tidy to eat as sandwiches. slightly tacky ball that clears sides of workbowl, 30 to And, frankly, the filling possibilities were endless. 60 seconds (there may be small bits of loose dough).

Salami, mortadella, prosciutto, Get Your Fill(ing) MEATS The flatbreads are an excellent accompaniment ’nduja (spreadable sausage), bresaola Arugula, basil, sautéed greens to any dish that pairs well with fresh bread, but GREENS they’re tailor-made for folding around a flavorful (broccoli rabe, spinach, Swiss chard) Ricotta, mozzarella, stracchino or goat cheese, filling—sweet or savory. A few of our favorite CHEESES combinations are , fontina, and artichoke fontina, mascarpone hearts; roasted red peppers, balsamic vinegar, Artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, VEGETABLES arugula, and ricotta; and tomato, mozzarella, tomatoes basil, and olive oil. But use your imagination. SWEETS Nutella (with mascarpone), honey (with ricotta)

2019 annual 79 Easiest-Ever Biscuits We combine two classic methods (and break a cardinal rule) to make tender, fluffy biscuits that come together in record time.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

fresh, warm instantly Getting Creamed the coziness quo- I wondered if things could be as simple tient of practically anything as adding more cream to a cream biscuit you serve it with: chicken dough until the dough was loose enough Astew, vegetable soup, fried eggs, or—my to drop. favorite accompaniment—another fresh, I whisked together 3 cups of all‑purpose warm biscuit. But mastering the tradi- flour, a tablespoon of baking powder, and tional biscuit-making technique takes a teaspoon of salt and then experimented some practice. with adding enough cream to make a First, you combine flour with salt, bak- scoopable dough, which turned out to ing powder, and maybe a bit of sugar (a be 3 cups—3/4 cup more than the usual highly contentious addition—more about amount called for. I then deposited scoops that later) and then toss in cubes of cold of the dough on a parchment‑lined baking butter, which you crumble and flatten sheet and baked them in a 400-degree oven. until precisely the right amount of tiny Sounds so easy that it makes you won- butter flakes are strewn evenly throughout der why cookbooks aren’t bursting with the flour. Next, you stir in cold milk or dropped-cream-biscuit recipes, right? Here’s buttermilk—masters of the art emphasize why: It didn’t work. The dough mounds that everything must remain frigid—until spread as they baked and came out looking the mixture forms a shaggy dough. Finally, like bland, lumpy cookies. The biscuits had you transfer the mass of dough to the a pleasantly milky flavor, a tender crumb, counter, gently roll or pat it out, and cut and a crisp exterior, but they left thick, out rounds with a sharp biscuit cutter greasy spots on the parchment and a slick before transferring them to the oven and on my fingers. baking them for about 15 minutes. Clearly, the additional moisture and fat It’s not difficult, but there are rules that from the extra cream were the source of must be followed, and all that mashing of For a glossy, rich finish, we like to brush the biscuits with melted butter these problems. But I couldn’t reduce the the butter and rolling and cutting can get when they are fresh from the oven. amount of cream—that would bring me messy. Happily, there are shortcuts. right back where I’d started, with a dough Want to skip cutting in the butter? Make cream heavy cream. Thanks to the cream’s generous but- that was too dry to drop. Maybe I was asking for biscuits: Replace both the butter and the milk with terfat content, the biscuits will be plenty rich and the impossible: a dough that was moist and scoop- tender. This formula makes a pretty stiff dough, so able before baking but that acted like a drier, less you’ll still have to roll and cut. fatty dough in the oven, rising instead of spreading TECHNIQUE Want to skip rolling and cutting? Make drop out. And I was expecting that a single ingredient, KEEP THE SCOOP SLICK biscuits: Start by cutting the butter into the dry cream, would perform this miracle. ingredients in the traditional way, but add extra To ensure that the dough releases easily from buttermilk or milk so that the dough has a wetter Less Really Is More the measuring cup, we spray it with vegetable oil consistency. Simply drop scoops of the soft dough That was when I had a revelation. Cream isn’t a sin- spray after every three or four scoops. onto the baking sheet and bake. gle ingredient, it’s two: water (with a little protein Cream biscuits tend to be more uniform and and sugar mixed in) and solid fat. The fat particles have a subtly layered structure, while drop bis- in cream are so minute that we don’t perceive them cuits are more craggy, with a beautifully tender, as solid, and they were stowing away in the cream cake‑like crumb. Why couldn’t I have the benefits only to melt in the heat of the oven, making the of both styles and make a dropped cream biscuit, biscuits greasy and, in combination with the water aka “dream biscuit”? As that nickname suggests, it in the cream, causing them to spread. would be the easiest biscuit ever. A new thunderbolt struck: What if I melted the fat by warming the cream before I mixed it into the STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND dough? That sound you just heard was the collective NUTRITION INFORMATION gasp of generations of horrified Southern bakers, CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 but hear me out: Maybe heating the cream would

increase its fluidity enough to enable me to make BURGOYNE JOHN ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 80 Making Biscuits Just Got Easier SCIENCE Biscuits are traditionally made in three styles: classic, cream, and drop. By creating a cream biscuit that can be WHY WE “MELT” THE CREAM dropped, we invented a fourth style that’s the easiest biscuit imaginable to make. IN OUR BISCUITS Fridge-cold cream looks like it’s 100 percent liquid, but it’s actually a combination of water, protein, and sugar, with tiny particles of solid butterfat suspended throughout. By warming the cream just enough to melt the fat particles (but not enough to activate the baking powder when the cream is mixed into the dry ingredients), we turn it into a CLASSIC: FUSSIEST CREAM: SKIPS CUTTING IN BUTTER pure liquid. This means we can use less cream to Method: Cut cold butter into dry ingredients, Method: Substitute cream for butter and milk, roll create a dough that is still loose enough to scoop moisten with milk, roll out, and cut out, and cut and drop but that doesn’t spread too much or Results: Flat top; distinctly flaky, layered interior Results: Flat top; subtly layered interior bake up too greasy. To demonstrate this effect, we made two doughs using 2 cups of cream. In one batch, the cream was fridge-cold; in the other, we warmed it. The dough made with the warmed cream was noticeably loose and easy to scoop.

DROP: SKIPS ROLLING OUT DOUGH CREAM/DROP: NO BUTTER CUTTING Method: Cut in butter, add enough milk to form OR ROLLING OUT dough that can be dropped Method: Use less cream than in cream biscuit; warm it Results: Craggy top; slightly irregular interior to create dough that is loose enough to be dropped Results: Subtly craggy top; fluffy, cake-like interior a scoopable dough with less of it. If so, that could You can serve biscuits with almost anything, and potentially fix both the spreading and the greasiness with a recipe this quick and easy, why wouldn’t you? COLD CREAM of my biscuits. Dough is too dry to drop. My first attempt failed pretty spectacularly. I heated EASIEST-EVER BISCUITS 2 cups of cream to 160 degrees, and as I stirred it SERVES 10 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES into the dry ingredients, its heat and moisture activated the baking powder, causing the dough These biscuits come together very quickly, so in the to expand so boisterously that it defied my frantic interest of efficiency, start heating your oven before attempts to shovel it into the 1/3-cup measuring cup. gathering your ingredients. We like these biscuits By the time the dough mounds went into the oven, brushed with a bit of melted butter, but you can the baking powder was spent, so the biscuits didn’t skip that step if you’re serving the biscuits with a rich rise. But they didn’t spread either, and they weren’t accompaniment such as sausage gravy. objectionably fatty. A bit of research revealed that the fat in cream 3 cups (15 ounces) all-purpose flour liquefies at between 90 and 95 degrees and the acids 4 teaspoons sugar in baking powder are activated at about 140 degrees. 1 tablespoon baking powder Maybe all I had to do was make sure the cream was ¼ teaspoon baking soda WARMED CREAM above 95 but below 140. 1¼ teaspoons table salt Dough is loose and scoopable. I cautiously heated the cream only to body tem- 2 cups heavy cream perature and then stirred it into the dry ingredients. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted (optional) The dough came together easily, neither too dry nor apart on prepared sheet (biscuits should measure too wet, and with no riotous inflation. I scooped and 1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position about 21/2 inches wide and1 inches tall). Respray I baked. And I prevailed. Mostly. and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking measuring cup after every 3 or 4 scoops. If portions These biscuits held their shape beautifully; were sheet with parchment paper. In medium bowl, whisk are misshapen, use your fingertips to gently reshape fluffy, not flat; and were pleasantly rich without being together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, dough into level cylinders. Bake until tops are light greasy. Their flavor, however, was a bit bland. Having and salt. Microwave cream until just warmed to body golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet already flouted the most sacred law of biscuit mak- temperature (95 to 100 degrees), 60 to 90 seconds, halfway through baking. Brush hot biscuits with ing by introducing a warm ingredient, I took a firm stirring halfway through microwaving. Stir cream melted butter, if using. Serve warm. (Biscuits can stand on the side of sugar and added a little to the into flour mixture until soft, uniform dough forms. be stored in zipper-lock bag at room temperature dry ingredients. I also added a bit of baking soda, not 2. Spray 1/3-cup dry measuring cup with veg- for up to 24 hours. Reheat biscuits in 300-degree for lift but for its slightly mineral-y tang. etable oil spray. Drop level scoops of batter 2 inches oven for 10 minutes.)

2019 annual 81 North African–Style Poached Eggs Shakshuka’s savory, aromatic tomato sauce is a perfect foil for the rich, runny eggs. If only it were a great poaching liquid, too.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

orgive me while I take a minute minutes, I peeked. Things had already to gush like a perfectly poached gone awry. The eggs I’d added first were egg about why I love shakshuka. cooking faster than the others. The eggs This dish features eggs gently nestled deeply into the sauce had hard Fpoached in a bright, savory tomato sauce yolks, while eggs near the surface had fragrant with warm spices and spiked runny yolks but watery whites. The sauce with red pepper and pops of fresh herbs. wasn’t great either; its flavor was nonde- The runny yolks mingle with the sauce, script, and though the pepper’s texture and everything gets scooped up with pita was pleasing, I couldn’t taste it through or crusty bread. It is often customized all the tomato. with additions such as crumbled cheeses, I made a couple of changes. First, , sausage, or ground lamb—mak- I swapped the fresh bell pepper for smoky, ing it an excellent breakfast‑for‑dinner sweet jarred roasted ones. I also doubled option—and may be further enlivened the spices. When it came time to add by condiments such as harissa, zesty herb the eggs, I removed the skillet from the sauce, or even tahini. burner to eliminate the urgency of adding I’m not alone in my devotion: This them over heat and to help them cook at North African dish has long been a favorite a more even rate. These were all improve- across the Middle East and Europe, and in ments, but the eggs still sank into the recent years its popularity has spread to the sauce to varying degrees, so they remained United States. As if all this isn’t enough, unevenly cooked. I also realized that there there’s also a practical reason to love were watery patches in the sauce. shakshuka: A basic version comes together quickly from staples I’m likely to have on Through Thick and Thin hand. Chopped tomatoes (canned work When eggs are poached in water, they are well), red peppers, aromatics, and spices completely submerged in a thin liquid of get cooked in a skillet until the flavors The eggs cook evenly in this thick, vibrant tomato sauce. uniform consistency. But here, the eggs blend and the sauce thickens; you then were sitting in a chunky liquid. Was that crack in the eggs, cover the pan, and cook until After a 10-minute simmer, the sauce had the cause of the uneven cooking? they’re done. thickened slightly, so I quickly cracked eight eggs I tried processing the tomatoes and half the The only downside to shakshuka is that if you’re into the skillet, covered it, and waited. After a few red peppers in a blender and then adding the making enough to serve four, getting eight eggs perfectly poached—with gently set whites and thick- ened but still runny yolks—in a single skillet can be a HOW TO POACH EGGS IN THICK SAUCE challenge. But if there was ever a dish I was inspired Poaching in a thick sauce in which the eggs are only partially submerged makes achieving runny yolks and to make foolproof, it was this one. creamy whites particularly challenging. Here’s how to do it successfully.

Get Cracking I first focused on the sauce. In a 12-inch skillet, I softened red bell pepper that I’d cut into 1/2-inch pieces and then added sliced garlic. When the garlic turned golden, I added tomato paste for savory depth and bloomed a few ground spices in oil: cori- ander, smoked paprika, cumin, and cayenne. Once the tomato paste had darkened, in went canned tomatoes, which I intentionally left chunky. 1. OFF HEAT, CREATE 2. ADD EGGS TO INDENTS 3. TOP WHITES WITH INDENTS Moving the pan off the Creating indents ensures that the SAUCE Spooning sauce over the STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND heat allows the sauce to cool slightly eggs are evenly spaced around whites just after adding the eggs NUTRITION INFORMATION so the eggs cook at an even rate. the pan. provides immediate direct heat to CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 The indents hold the yolks in place. help the whites set faster. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 82 For More Evenly Cooked Eggs, 8 large eggs Smooth Out the Sauce 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves We started with a sauce full of large pieces of and stems red peppers and tomatoes. However, we found 1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup) that a smoother sauce helped the eggs cook at a ¼ cup pitted kalamata olives, sliced more even rate. That’s because a chunky sauce impedes the convection currents that transfer heat. 1. Cut enough pita bread into 1/2-inch pieces Thus, an egg surrounded by large pieces will cook to equal 1/2 cup (about one-third of 1 pita bread). more slowly than an egg sitting in a smooth sauce. Cut remaining pita breads into wedges for serv- Pureeing the sauce ensured that the eggs were sur‑ CHUNKY ing. Process pita pieces, tomatoes, and half of red rounded by a consistently smooth, fluid sauce for a SAUCE BLOCKS peppers in blender until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. more even transfer of heat. THE HEAT Cut remaining red peppers into ¼-inch pieces and set aside. 2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium heat remaining red peppers, finely chopped, for just a EGGS IN SPICY TOMATO AND ROASTED until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring little texture. The results were encouraging. The RED PEPPER SAUCE (SHAKSHUKA) occasionally, until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add yolks were evenly contained and surrounded by the SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR tomato paste, coriander, paprika, cumin, salt, pep- smooth sauce. They were also more evenly cooked. per, and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, until Our science research editor explained that chunks Served with a green salad, this dish makes a satisfy- rust‑colored and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in in a sauce impede convection currents, whereas a ing brunch, lunch, or dinner. Use a glass lid if you tomato–red pepper puree and reserved red peppers smoother, more fluid sauce carries heat more evenly have it. If not, feel free to peek at the eggs frequently (mixture may sputter) and bring to simmer. Reduce (see “For More Evenly Cooked Eggs, Smooth Out as they cook. We like Muir Glen Organic Whole heat to maintain simmer; cook, stirring occasion- the Sauce”). I was thrilled to have worked out the Peeled Tomatoes. Top with Spicy Middle Eastern ally, until slightly thickened (spatula will leave trail yolks’ cooking, but I still had loose whites and a Herb Sauce (Zhoug), if desired. Our recipe for Eggs that slowly fills in behind it, but sauce will still slosh weepy sauce to deal with. in Spicy Tomato and Roasted Red Pepper Sauce when skillet is shaken), 10 to 12 minutes. Traditional gazpacho, in which vegetables are (Shakshuka) for Two is available to web subscribers 3. Remove skillet from heat. Using back of pureed until smooth, can also separate this way. But at CooksIllustrated.com/apr19. spoon, make 8 shallow dime-size indentations in Spanish cooks have a solution: add bread. Would sauce (7 around perimeter and 1 in center). Crack that work here? I added a slice of white sandwich 4 (8-inch) pita breads, divided 1 egg into small bowl and pour into 1 indentation bread to the blender with a batch of tomatoes and 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, (it will hold yolk in place but not fully contain red peppers. The resulting sauce was silky, smooth, drained egg). Repeat with remaining 7 eggs. Spoon sauce and stayed homogeneous after cooking. Moving 3 cups jarred roasted red peppers, over edges of egg whites so that whites are partially forward, I swapped in pita, which I’d be serving with divided covered and yolks are exposed. the dish anyway. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 4. Bring to simmer over medium heat (there 4 garlic cloves, sliced thin should be small bubbles across entire surface). Cover Up 1 tablespoon tomato paste Reduce heat to maintain simmer. Cover and cook I still needed to speed up the cooking of the thicker 2 teaspoons ground coriander until yolks film over, 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to egg whites, which remained loose and watery around 2 teaspoons smoked paprika cook, covered, until whites are softly but uniformly the yolks. Plopping the eggs into the sauce neatly 1 teaspoon ground cumin set (if skillet is shaken lightly, each egg should jiggle contained the yolks and cooked them from under- 1/2 teaspoon table salt as a single unit), 1 to 2 minutes longer. Off heat, neath and around the sides, but the whites flowed ¼ teaspoon pepper sprinkle with cilantro, feta, and olives. Serve imme- freely over the surface of the sauce. I wondered if ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper diately, passing pita wedges separately. I could use the sauce to help contain the whites and cook them faster. Once I added the eggs (making slight divots in An Herby Kind of Hot Sauce the sauce with the back of a spoon helped map out This warm-spiced, garlicky chile-herb sauce takes shakshuka to where to drop each one), I spooned some of the the next level. sauce over the whites so they were more contained and submerged in the hot sauce, hoping it would SPICY MIDDLE EASTERN HERB SAUCE (ZHOUG) transfer heat to them faster than the air above them SERVES 12 (MAKES 1 CUP) TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES in the covered skillet would. Sure enough, in my next batch, by the time the yolks were soft and golden, 2 cups fresh cilantro leaves Pulse cilantro, Thai chiles, garlic, the whites had set. and stems coriander, cumin, and salt in food It was time for the garnishes: chopped fresh 4 Thai chiles, stemmed processor until coarsely chopped, cilantro, sliced kalamata olives, and crumbled feta 3 garlic cloves, peeled 8 to 10 pulses. Transfer to small were all simple but potent. (But if you’re interested While this hot sauce, which some 1/2 teaspoon ground bowl. Add oil and stir until sauce has in creating a truly knockout dish, whip up a batch of sources say originated in Yemen, coriander consistency of loose paste. Season zhoug, a spicy green sauce of fresh herbs and chiles is often served as an accompani‑ 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin with salt to taste. (Sauce can be that’s often served alongside shakshuka.) ment to shakshuka, it’s hard to 1/2 teaspoon table salt refrigerated in airtight container for With this satisfying, richly flavored version featur- imagine what it wouldn’t taste 1/2 cup extra-virgin up to 2 weeks. Let come to room ing perfectly oozy, creamy eggs, I fell in love with good on. olive oil temperature before serving.)

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: shakshuka all over again.

2019 annual 83 French Toast Without the Fuss Forget drippy soaking methods and tedious batch cooking. Your oven is the most efficient tool for producing golden, custardy slices.

j BY LAN LAM k

thought my days as a short-order “backbone” of dry bread in the center that cook were long behind me, but in supported the weight of the to recent months I’ve been logging ensure that each piece cooked up creamy, a lot of hours on the test kitchen’s not soggy. breakfastI line. It all started with my recipe I know what you’re thinking: No one for Easy , in which I prioritized would go to the trouble of measuring the pantry-friendly ingredients and mini- soaking depth of the custard for French mal effort so that the flapjacks could be toast. But I did. And happily, those tests thrown together anytime—not just on helped me figure out a really simple way to leisurely weekend mornings. That got me get each slice perfectly saturated. thinking about an equally simple formula I poured the custard into a rimmed bak- for that other breakfast mainstay, French ing sheet, which caused it to spread into an toast. Soaking bread in an eggy custard even layer. Then I laid out the bread slices and browning the slices in a pan until like tiles on the custard-covered surface. By they’re golden on the outside and cus- the time the last slice was in place, the first tardy within doesn’t take long, but all side of the first slice had soaked up just the that dipping, flipping, and batch cook- right amount of custard. I flipped each slice, ing is fussy business, especially if you’re and in barely a minute I was rewarded with trying to serve a crowd. And the eight perfectly soaked slices of bread and no custard-to-bread ratio rarely works out excess custard in the sheet. just right: Either you’re short on custard The only problem was that the heavy, and the last slices are dry—all toast, no custard‑laden slices were too delicate to French—or you’re left with an excess of transfer to the skillet. But maybe I didn’t custard that gets poured down the drain. need a skillet at all. Why not bake the So back to the breakfast station I went slices instead? with my sights set on a recipe for French toast that could transform ordinary sand- Even after a generous pour of maple syrup, the surface of the toast Out of the Frying Pan wich bread into a creamy, crisp-crusted remains crisp. There were two potential advantages to treat. No fuss. No mess. No waste. baking: The saturated slices would stay I mixed up a basic custard—just eggs, milk, and melted butter into the custard made it more luxuri- intact, and they could be cooked in a single batch sugar flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, and salt—but ous, and I found that adding the butter to the egg (no need to worry about keeping the first batch quickly realized that simply dumping all the ingre- mixture before the milk prevented the butter from warm while the remaining slices cooked). For the dients into a bowl and whisking wasn’t the best clumping. Meanwhile, switching from granulated to next batch, I coated the baking sheet generously approach if I wanted the custard to be homogeneous. brown sugar and adding more vanilla (a full table- with vegetable oil spray to prevent the bread from To break up the eggs, I had to whisk vigorously, spoon) boosted the custard’s flavor. sticking during baking, poured in the custard, added which caused milk to slosh out of the bowl while stub- the bread, flipped it, and popped the sheet onto the born clumps of yolk slid past the tines of the whisk. Letting It Soak In lowest rack of a 425-degree oven. The bottoms of Going forward, I held back the milk, adding it once Calibrating exactly how long the bread should the slices browned in about 10 minutes. I had beaten the eggs with the vanilla, sugar, salt, and soak was trickier. A quick dip yielded toast that was I was about to flip each slice to brown the second cinnamon until they were completely smooth. At that dry in patches, while fully saturating the slices left side when I had a better idea: Instead of painstak- point, the milk could simply be stirred in. them downright soggy. With some trial and error, ingly turning each slice (and potentially burning my I proceeded with the conventional dip-and-fry I figured out the ideal scenario: The custard needed fingers), I could broil the toast. All I had to do was approach, dunking each slice into the custard and to penetrate ¼ inch into each slice, leaving a slim move the baking sheet to a rack set about 5 inches browning a few slices at a time in a hot skillet. The custard’s flavor needed tweaking—it lacked richness and depth. Whisking a couple of tablespoons of French Connection? Maybe Not French toast is about as French as French dressing—which is to say, not very. Many sources claim that the STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND tradition of soaking bread in sweet, spiced liquid (such as wine, milk, or fruit juice) and frying it has long been NUTRITION INFORMATION a tradition in numerous countries from England to Germany to India. Among these other fried eggy breads: CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 German toast, Bombay toast, and poor knights of Windsor. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 84 A Baking-Sheet Soak Avoids Mess and Waste Dunking bread slices in custard isn’t just messy, it’s also imprecise, and it leads to French toast that’s either oversaturated or too dry. Plus, it often leaves you with an excess of custard that gets wasted. Here’s a better way that ensures each slice is evenly saturated and soaks up every last drop of custard. The best part? You can bake all the slices on the same baking sheet.

1. Pour the custard into a rimmed baking sheet that 2. Add eight slices of bread, one slice at a time, in 3. One minute after all eight slices have been flipped, has been generously coated with vegetable oil spray two rows of four. By the time you’ve added the last the custard will be completely absorbed. (to prevent the slices from sticking during baking). slice, the first slice is ready to be flipped to soak on its The custard will spread into an even layer. second side.

below the broiler and switch the oven from bake to broil. Three minutes later, the custardy toast was TECHNIQUE A BETTER WAY TO WHISK CUSTARD browned on both sides. The crisp broiled surface Mixing up custard the usual way—by whisking all the ingredients together contrasted beautifully with the toast’s creamy cen- at once—tends to slosh liquid out of the bowl and yields a ter—even after I doused it with maple syrup. broken custard that cooks up streaky on French toast. This French toast is so quick and easy, you can We found that whisking the ingredients into make it in your sleep—or at least while the coffee the eggs in stages blends the mixture more is brewing. thoroughly and without making a mess. First we beat the sugar, cinnamon, and salt into EVERYDAY FRENCH TOAST the eggs and vanilla; the gritty particles of SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES the dry ingredients help break up the egg yolks. At that point, it’s easy to thoroughly We developed this recipe to work with presliced incorporate the melted butter and milk. supermarket bread that measures 4 by 6 inches and is 3/4 inch thick. Our favorite is Arnold Country STAGGERING MAKES White Bread. Be sure to use vegetable oil spray IT SMOOTH For a homogeneous custard, here; it contains lecithin, which ensures that the first whisk the dry ingredients into oil stays well distributed, preventing the toast from MIXED the eggs to break up the yolks, MIXED sticking. Top with maple syrup or confectioners’ ALL AT ONCE and then stir in the liquids. IN STAGES sugar, if desired.

3 large eggs oven to 425 degrees. Generously spray bottom and sheet. Let sit until slices absorb remaining custard, 1 tablespoon vanilla extract sides of 18 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet with about 1 minute. Bake on lower rack until bottoms of 2 teaspoons packed brown sugar vegetable oil spray. Whisk eggs, vanilla, sugar, cin- slices are golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon namon, and salt in large bowl until sugar is dissolved sheet to upper rack and heat broiler. (Leave sheet in ¼ teaspoon table salt and no streaks of egg remain. Whisking constantly, oven while broiler heats.) Broil until tops of slices 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted drizzle in melted butter. Whisk in milk. are golden brown, watching carefully and rotating 1 cup milk 2. Pour egg mixture into prepared sheet. Arrange sheet if necessary to prevent burning, 1 to 4 minutes. 8 slices hearty white sandwich bread bread in single layer in egg mixture, leaving small 3. Using thin metal spatula, carefully flip each gaps between slices. Working quickly, use your slice. Serve. 1. Adjust 1 oven rack to lowest position and sec- fingers to flip slices in same ond rack 5 to 6 inches from broiler element. Heat order you placed them in

Easy-Bake (and Broil) Oven French Toast BAKE SLICES TO THEN BROIL There’s no need to batch-cook your French toast in a skillet, which risks tearing the BROWN BOTTOMS TO CRISP TOPS delicate slices and splattering custard on the stovetop. Our two-step oven approach avoids the fuss and mess: We first bake the custard-saturated slices on the lowest rack of a hot oven until their bottoms are deeply golden and then slide the baking sheet under the broiler to briefly brown and crisp their tops. ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION:

2019 annual 85 Modern, Hearty Scrambled Eggs Ham and cheddar aren’t your only options. We’ve got plenty of new ideas for switching up the same old scramble.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

hen I’m running low on complement to the earthy pintos. Two time, energy, groceries, tablespoons of oil for eight eggs kept or all three, I like to whip them loose and lubricated. up my “emergency eggs”: Since I was already beating oil into the WI just chop up whatever leftover cooked eggs, I also used a couple of teaspoons to vegetables are stashed in the refrigerator, cook them. The test kitchen’s method for toss them in a hot skillet with beaten eggs, producing large, billowy curds has two and stir until curds form. Whether they’re stages: Start the eggs over medium-high for breakfast, brunch, or dinner, these heat, folding them gently but constantly healthful scrambles always satisfy, even if for about a minute to form large curds. they are a little rough around the edges. Then, reduce the heat to low to gently But I knew that if I gave them some finish cooking them and to provide ample attention, I could come up with recipes time to remove them from the skillet before worth repeating. they overcook. It was important to return My fresh take on scrambled eggs meant the beans to the pan when the curds were staying away from heavy add-ins such well established but still a little wet so the as meat and cheese and mundane veg- eggs could set up around them to create a etables such as onions and bell peppers. As cohesive dish. I experimented with more contemporary I now had large, tender egg curds stud- options, I nixed spinach and Swiss chard; ded with creamy pink beans and flecks of they tended to weep after cooking, making chopped cilantro and jalapeños. I didn’t the eggs watery. Superdelicate greens, such want to overload the eggs with gobs of as baby arugula, were also out: They liked cheese, but I thought that a bit of cotija—a to clump, which made them difficult to dry, crumbly, salty Mexican cheese—might disperse evenly. be a worthy addition. Indeed, just an ounce Perhaps I needed to think further out- Canned pinto beans—accented with cotija cheese, jarred jalapeños, and of it perked things up. Sprinkled with more side the box or, more accurately, outside fresh cilantro—are an unconventional, satisfying addition to scrambled eggs. chopped cilantro and served with a stack of the fridge: Gazing into the pantry, I spot- warm tortillas and a bottle of hot sauce, these ted a can of pinto beans. Beans are often served any moisture evaporated, transferred it to a bowl, eggs made a quick, fresh, anytime meal. alongside Mexican egg dishes such as huevos and then wiped the skillet clean with paper towels rancheros or migas, so why not put them directly so I could use it to cook the eggs. More of a Good Thing into the eggs? Using the pinto bean recipe as a template, I created For a bit of personality, I sizzled minced garlic No Bad Eggs two variations. For the first, I went back to where and some chopped jarred jalapeños in olive oil in But before I did that, I wanted to ensure that the the inspiration for these eggs had started: the refrig- a nonstick skillet before adding the drained beans eggs would be tender. Eggs get tough when their erator. There, I found ¹⁄₂ pound of asparagus that, along with a few tablespoons of chopped fresh cilan- proteins bond too tightly. One way around that when cut into 1/2-inch pieces, would integrate nicely tro. I cooked the mixture for a minute or so until is to dilute them with liquid, which prevents the into the fluffy curds. I pan-steamed the pieces with proteins from linking up too quickly and closely. a little garlic until they were crisp-tender. While the The test kitchen likes to add half-and‑half, which cooked asparagus waited in a bowl, I scrambled the makes fantastic classic scrambled eggs. But for this eggs. After incorporating the asparagus at the last fresher take, I really wanted to use extra‑virgin minute, I dressed up the finished scramble by drap- olive oil. Its grassy savoriness would be an ideal ing glossy smoked salmon on top and showering it with minced fresh chives. For my second variation, I sliced and sautéed WHEN TO ADD THE MIX-INS earthy shiitake mushrooms, which fared well in a It’s important to stir the mix-ins into the eggs when scramble since they were light enough not to weigh the curds are still a little wet; this way the eggs will set down the curds. A modest amount of salty, tangy around the vegetables and form a cohesive dish. If the feta and a sprinkle of woodsy minced fresh thyme mix-ins are incorporated once the eggs are mostly dry, were ideal accents to the meaty mushrooms. they won’t fully integrate. Here was a trio of egg dishes that I was proud to

serve up—emergency or not. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 86 constantly and firmly scrape along bottom and sides of skillet until eggs begin to clump and spatula just leaves trail on bottom of skillet, 30 to 60 seconds. Reduce heat to low and gently but constantly fold eggs until clumped and just slightly wet, 30 to 60 seconds. Fold in asparagus mixture. Transfer to serving dish, top with salmon, sprinkle with remain- ing 1 tablespoon chives, and serve.

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS AND FETA CHEESE SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES

Oyster or cremini mushrooms can be substituted for the shiitake mushrooms, if desired; to prepare the oyster or cremini mushrooms, trim the stems but do not remove them. Crumbled feta is often coated with cellulose to keep it from caking; for the best results, buy a block of feta and crumble it yourself. This recipe can be easily halved, if desired; use a 10-inch skillet.

Ribbons of smoked salmon are a luxe finish to asparagus-studded eggs (left); crumbles of milky, salty feta 8 large eggs complement a mixture of eggs and earthy shiitake mushrooms (right). 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS, 1/ teaspoon table salt, divided PINTO BEANS AND COTIJA CHEESE SMOKED SALMON, AND CHIVES 1/ teaspoon pepper SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES 1 shallot, minced 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme If cotija cheese is unavailable, you can substitute feta If you can’t find thin asparagus spears, peel the 8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cheese. This recipe can be easily halved, if desired; bottom halves of the spears until the white flesh sliced thin use a 10-inch skillet. We like to serve these eggs with is exposed, and then halve each spear lengthwise 1/ cup water warm tortillas and hot sauce. before cutting it into 1/2-inch pieces. This recipe 1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (1 cup) can be easily halved, if desired; use a 10-inch skillet. 8 large eggs 1. In medium bowl, beat eggs, 2 tablespoons 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 8 large eggs oil, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and pepper with fork until 1/ teaspoon table salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, no streaks of white remain. Heat 1 teaspoon oil, 1/ cup jarred sliced jalapeños, chopped coarse divided shallot, thyme, and remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt in 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring 1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans, rinsed 1/ teaspoon table salt occasionally, until shallot is softened and beginning 1/ cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided 1/ teaspoon pepper to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and 1 ounce cotija cheese, crumbled (1 cup) 1 garlic clove, minced water, cover, and cook, stirring frequently, until 8 ounces thin asparagus, trimmed and mushrooms are softened, 5 to 8 minutes. Uncover 1. In medium bowl, beat eggs, 2 tablespoons oil, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and continue to cook until moisture has evaporated, and salt with fork until no streaks of white remain. 2 tablespoons water 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer mushroom mixture Heat 1 teaspoon oil, jalapeños, and garlic in 12-inch 2 ounces smoked salmon, torn into to small bowl and set aside. Wipe skillet clean with nonstick skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 1/2-inch strips paper towels. about 1 minute. Add beans and 3 tablespoons cilan- 2. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in now-empty tro and cook, stirring frequently, until moisture has 1. In medium bowl, beat eggs, 2 tablespoons oil, skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. evaporated, about 1 minute. Transfer bean mixture 1 tablespoon chives, salt, and pepper with fork until Add egg mixture and, using rubber spatula, con- to small bowl and set aside. Wipe skillet clean with no streaks of white remain. Heat 1 teaspoon oil and stantly and firmly scrape along bottom and sides of paper towels. garlic in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat skillet until eggs begin to clump and spatula just 2. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in now-empty until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add asparagus and leaves trail on bottom of skillet, 30 to 60 seconds. skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add water, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until Reduce heat to low and gently but constantly fold egg mixture and, using rubber spatula, constantly and asparagus is crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover eggs until clumped and just slightly wet, 30 to firmly scrape along bottom and sides of skillet until and continue to cook until moisture has evaporated, 60 seconds. Fold in mushroom mixture. Transfer eggs begin to clump and spatula just leaves trail on about 1 minute longer. Transfer asparagus mixture to serving dish, sprinkle with feta, and serve. bottom of skillet, 30 to 60 seconds. Reduce heat to to small bowl and set aside. Wipe skillet clean with low and gently but constantly fold eggs until clumped paper towels. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND and just slightly wet, 30 to 60 seconds. Fold in bean 2. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in now-empty NUTRITION INFORMATION mixture. Transfer to serving dish, sprinkle with cotija skillet over medium-high heat until shimmer- CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 and remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro, and serve. ing. Add egg mixture and, using rubber spatula,

2019 annual 87 Why You Should Make Garlic Confit Silky, nutty-tasting garlic confit is a faster stovetop alternative to oven-roasted heads— without any of their mess or waste. And it yields a valuable byproduct.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

t recently occurred to me that I’ve I wondered if vegetable oil, which is far been romanticizing roasted garlic. less expensive (our favorite supermarket The cloves’ transformation from hard extra‑virgin olive oil costs about five times as and pungent to soft and mellow is much as our favorite all-purpose vegetable practicallyI magic, and there’s nothing eas- oil), would work just as well. The answer? ier than wrapping a whole head in foil and Yes, but they are different. When we tasted throwing it into the oven. But when I actu- batches side by side, the olive oil retained ally peeled apart an entire oven-roasted enough of its ripe pungency to make for a head (profound curiosity is part of my job more complex garlic oil, while the neutral description), my rosy perception of this vegetable oil tasted purely garlicky. Both are method and its product quickly changed. great options, so the choice is yours. When cooked at 400 degrees for an hour These tender, creamy cloves can be used (the standard approach), the outer cloves in countless applications—spread them on a browned unevenly and many of the inner sandwich, stir them into pasta or potatoes, cloves stayed pale and tasted more steamed scatter them on pizza—but here are my than roasted. To achieve evenly colored top three: Stir them into a pan sauce for and uniformly buttery-smooth cloves, a riff on chicken with 40 cloves of garlic; I found that I needed to drop the oven work them into Parmesan shortbread for a temperature to 250 degrees and then roast savory, sophisticated snack; and mash them the garlic for a full 2 hours. Harvesting the with butter and parsley for a savory spread. cloves was problematic, too: Though it Magical stuff, indeed. was satisfying to squeeze them from their papery chambers, it was also messy—not GARLIC CONFIT to mention annoying, since a lot of the soft SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP) pulp inevitably got left behind. TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR It was enough to make me look for a better way to produce silky, spreadable, If you can find prepeeled garlic, use it for nutty-sweet garlic. This is how I arrived at this recipe. Two heads of garlic yield about garlic confit, a preparation in which peeled 30 cloves. Use a small, deep saucepan to garlic cloves are cooked gently in a pot of Look for prepeeled garlic cloves for this recipe: They taste great as confit, ensure that the garlic is submerged; don’t oil or fat until they are creamy and lightly and you can’t beat their convenience. worry if the garlic floats as it cooks. For tanned. The result captures much of the reasons, use a clean spoon when savory-sweetness of roasted garlic in about half an well as freshly peeled cloves—though whichever type dipping into the cooked garlic and oil, and store the hour. Each clove becomes meltingly tender, and you use, it’s important to trim the tough root ends, cooked garlic separately from the oil. Stir the confit since nothing gets left behind in the skins, the yield which don’t soften. into mashed potatoes or pasta, spread it on bread for is more predictable. Finally, the process generates a I also tested the choice of oil. Almost every recipe sandwiches, or puree it into dips or dressings. Use valuable byproduct: fragrant garlic oil that can be calls for extra-virgin olive oil. But since heating olive the oil as a dip for bread, drizzle it over vegetables or whisked into dressings, drizzled on cooked meats oil destroys some of its volatile aroma compounds, pasta, or use it to make vinaigrette or pesto. and vegetables, and sopped up with crusty bread. Making garlic confit is so simple that most approaches are very similar, but I came up with a The Problems with Roasted Garlic OUTER few tweaks to ensure the best results. First, for the Roasted garlic and garlic confit both offer creamy cloves CLOVES most evenly cooked cloves, I found it was important that taste mellow and savory-sweet. But roasting has Unevenly to keep the oil at a bare simmer and to use plenty of a couple of drawbacks. The first is time: It takes hours cooked it, so the cloves were fully submerged—I needed a of low heat to produce evenly nutty, spreadably soft full cup for 30 cloves (or about two heads of garlic). garlic (air doesn’t transfer heat as efficiently as oil does). I also made sure to remove the cloves from the heat When roasted at hotter temperatures, the cloves cook INNER when they were uniformly pale tan; though they take unevenly, and sometimes the inner ones don’t color at all. CLOVES on a little more color as they cool, cooking them to a The second drawback is yield: Some of the roasted garlic Little to no darker brown risked turning their exteriors leathery. can get left behind when you squeeze out the cloves. color

Happily, I found that prepeeled garlic works just as LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 88 Garlic confit is a great spread for crusty bread, but it has countless other uses. We work it into a quick pan sauce for sautéed chicken, savory shortbread, and a compound butter.

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil, 3 cutlets of similar thickness. Place cutlets between 1. In small bowl, mash garlic confit with spatula or or a combination, plus extra as needed sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound to even fork to form smooth paste. Process flour, Parmesan, 30 garlic cloves, peeled (3/4 cup), root ends 1/2-inch thickness. Place cutlets in bowl and toss with baking powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne in food trimmed salt and pepper. Set aside. processor until combined, about 10 seconds. Add 2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over butter and garlic paste and process until dough forms 1. Combine oil and garlic in small saucepan (garlic medium-high heat until just smoking. Place 6 cutlets ball, about 35 seconds (there may be small bits of should be just submerged. If not, add extra oil to in skillet, reduce heat to medium, and cook until loose dough). Transfer dough to counter and divide cover). Bring to bare simmer over medium-low heat. golden brown on first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and in half. Roll each half into 8-inch log, wrap in plastic Reduce heat to low so tiny bubbles surround garlic, cook until golden brown on second side, 2 to 3 min- wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. but garlic is not actively frying. Continue to cook, stir- utes. Transfer cutlets to large plate. Repeat with 2. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and ring occasionally, until garlic is soft and pale tan, 30 to remaining 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 6 cutlets. lower‑middle positions and heat oven to 325 degrees. 35 minutes longer. (Garlic should be soft enough to 3. Add shallot to residual oil in skillet and cook Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. smear on plate with back of spoon.) until softened, about 30 seconds. Add minced garlic Unwrap logs and slice into ¼-inch-thick coins. 2. Off heat, let garlic cool in oil for at least 15 min- and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add flour and Space coins 1/2 inch apart on prepared sheets. Bake utes (garlic will darken slightly as it cools). Using stir until no dry bits remain, about 1 minute. Add until light golden around edges, about 16 minutes, slotted spoon, transfer garlic to airtight container. broth, wine, and thyme and bring to simmer, scrap- switching and rotating sheets halfway through bak- Strain oil through fine-mesh strainer into separate ing up any browned bits. ing. Transfer sheets to wire racks and let coins cool airtight container and reserve for another use. (Once 4. Add cutlets to sauce and simmer for 4 min- completely on sheets before serving. (Coins can be completely cooled, refrigerate garlic for up to 1 week utes, flipping halfway through simmering. Transfer stored in airtight container at room temperature for or freeze for up to 6 months. Refrigerate oil for up to cutlets to clean platter. Continue to simmer sauce up to 1 week.) 4 days or freeze for up to 6 months.) until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes longer (you should have about 1 cup sauce). Off heat, gently stir GARLIC CONFIT BUTTER CHICKEN WITH 32 CLOVES OF GARLIC in garlic confit so cloves remain intact. Season with SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP) SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over cutlets TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES and serve. Serve the chicken with crusty bread, steamed white Parsley adds color, but you can omit it, if desired. rice, or boiled potatoes. GARLIC AND PARMESAN CHEESE COINS Spread on crusty bread or use to dress roasted veg- MAKES 64 CRACKERS etables, boiled potatoes, or cooked shrimp or steak. 4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR COOLING breasts, trimmed 1 recipe Garlic Confit 2 teaspoons kosher salt You can refrigerate the dough for up to three days 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1/2 teaspoon pepper or freeze it for up to one month. Thaw it in the 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley (optional) ¼ cup vegetable oil, divided refrigerator overnight before proceeding with step 2. ¼ teaspoon table salt 1 shallot, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 recipe Garlic Confit In small bowl, mash garlic confit with spatula to 4 teaspoons all-purpose flour 11/2 cups (71/2 ounces) all-purpose flour form smooth paste. Add butter; parsley, if using; and 11/3 cups chicken broth 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (1/2 cup) salt and continue to mash with spatula until combined 2/3 cup dry white wine 1/2 teaspoon baking powder into smooth spread. Season with salt to taste. 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1 recipe Garlic Confit ¼ teaspoon pepper STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Pinch cayenne pepper NUTRITION INFORMATION 1. Cut each chicken breast in half crosswise, then 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 cut thick half in half again horizontally, creating 8 pieces and chilled

2019 annual 89 Mexico’s Most Famous Salsa For a top-notch salsa roja, we triple down on the chiles.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

onsidering its eminence in Mexican cui- adobo sauce. The chipotle added a little more heat sine, salsa roja has a curiously modest along with a welcome hint of smoke. name. It translates prosaically as “red Now that I have a top-notch salsa roja, I’ll keep sauce,” but that moniker fails to convey a perpetual supply in my refrigerator so I can put it Cthe zippy tomato-and-chile-based sauce’s ability on everything. to elevate so many foods: nachos, tacos, or que- sadillas; fried eggs, potatoes, grilled chicken, or SALSA ROJA steak. I’m such a fan that I always need a batch in SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS) TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES my refrigerator so that I have some at the ready whenever the mood strikes. Chiles vary in heat level, so adjust the amount of chi- Salsa roja is made with tomatoes, a fresh chile (or potle to your taste. This salsa is great with chips, tacos, several), onion, cilantro, and possibly garlic and dried fried or scrambled eggs, , or grilled meat. chiles. Some or all of the ingredients are cooked, at least briefly, and the sauce is blended. It sounds 1 dried ancho chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn straightforward, but there’s a fascinating amount of into 1/2-inch pieces (1 cup) variation among recipes. 1 pound plum tomatoes, cored and halved, Some cooks char and blister the ingredients, while divided others cover them with water and boil them for as 1–3 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chile in long as 30 minutes. Some cooks use a Mexican mortar adobo sauce, divided and pestle (known as a molcajete) for rustically chunky 1/4 small onion, root end attached results, while others use a blender for a smoother con- 1 jalapeño chile sistency. The heat level can vary from relatively mild 1 large garlic clove, unpeeled to perilously spicy, making it advisable to approach This salsa is great with chips but can also be loosened 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves and stems, any salsa roja with respectful caution. with water to drizzle on many other foods. chopped coarse In a recipe that varies so much, the presence of 3/4 teaspoon table salt tomatoes and fresh chiles was reassuringly universal. Then it occurred to me: Maybe I could hydrate the I chose to use plum tomatoes for their meatiness and ancho and add brightness in a single step. 1. Process ancho pieces in blender until finely a single jalapeño to start, figuring I could always jack I tore the ancho into 1/2-inch pieces, which I put chopped, about 20 seconds. Add one-quarter of up the heat later. Now, how to cook them? directly into the blender and ground to tiny specks. tomatoes and 1 teaspoon chipotle. Process on low Boiling the ingredients left the sauce watery, Then I added one of the raw tomatoes and pureed the speed, scraping down sides of blender jar if necessary, so I tried charring the tomatoes and jalapeño in a mixture. I let the mixture sit while I broiled the rest of until tomatoes are finely chopped and ancho pieces cast‑iron skillet. The dry heat sweetened and con- the ingredients. The fresh tomato pulp hydrated the are moistened, about 45 seconds. Let mixture sit centrated the tomatoes and intensified the jalapeño’s ancho and added brightness to the sauce. for 15 minutes. flavor. In the interest of efficiency, however, I decided I still thought the sauce could use more depth, 2. Meanwhile, line rimmed baking sheet with alu- to char under the broiler, and I halved the tomatoes so I decided to add some minced chipotle chile in minum foil. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler so more of their watery insides could evaporate. For a element and heat broiler. Place remaining tomatoes bit more flavor, I added a clove of garlic and a wedge skin side down on prepared sheet. Add onion and of onion to the pan as well. Three-Alarm Fire jalapeño and broil until onion and jalapeño are I love pureed versions of salsa roja—they’re great Fresh, dried, and canned chiles blackened and tomatoes are beginning to turn spotty for dispensing from squeeze bottles onto everything. each contribute their own brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Flip onion and jalapeño, add So I opted to blend the tomatoes, chile, onion, and flavor profile. garlic, and broil until all vegetables are blackened, garlic with some salt until smooth. The sauce was 3 to 4 minutes. good, but it lacked the brightness and depth of the DRIED ANCHO 3. Transfer jalapeño and garlic to cutting board; finest examples I’ve had. A handful of cilantro helped, CHILE let cool. When cool enough to handle, peel garlic. Raisin-y, fruity backbone but not enough. A dried ancho chile would be just Without peeling, stem and seed jalapeño. Add the thing to add a bit of raisin-y backbone. Dried CANNED tomatoes, onion, jalapeño, garlic, cilantro, and salt to chiles are usually softened in water before being CHIPOTLE CHILE blender and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. blended, but waiting around for that wasn’t ideal. Heat and smoke Season with salt and up to 2 teaspoons additional chipotle to taste; process until smooth. Transfer to STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND FRESH JALAPEÑO serving bowl or squeeze bottle. If desired, stir in NUTRITION INFORMATION Green, grassy notes water, 1 teaspoon at a time, to loosen to drizzling CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 consistency. (Leftover salsa may be refrigerated for

up to 1 week.) TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 90 Yule Log Revival A fluffy, tender cake that rolls effortlessly around a plush, stay-put filling, and most of the work can be completed days in advance? It’s a Christmas miracle.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

hen it comes to holiday celebra- tions, I’m a traditionalist. But somehow I’d managed never to make a Yule log. It’s not only one Wof the oldest finales to a Christmas feast but also a dessert with a huge “wow” factor: a moist, tender cake rolled around a rich, creamy filling; coated in frosting; and adorned with playful woodsy gar- nishes. This year I decided I would finally take on the elaborate holiday project. But as I started to review recipes, I found I was more likely to read about how suspenseful—even harrowing—the dessert can be to assemble than about how wonderful it can be to eat. Will the filling be squeezed out as you roll? Will the cake crack? After all that work and stress, will your creation look convincingly log-like? Or more like a pile of mulch? Of course, my own recipe had to be delicious. But it also had to be a sure thing: a cake that rolled without fracturing and a filling that stayed put, all encased in a neat layer of frosting.

The Best Cake for the Job I familiarized myself with the basic method: Bake cake batter in a shallow rimmed baking sheet. Invert the hot cake onto a confectioners’ sugar–dusted dish towel (the sugar prevents sticking) and roll it up so that the cake sets into a curled shape as it cools. Unroll the cake, spread the filling over the cake, and roll it up again—without the towel this time. Chocolate cookie crumbles and ground pistachios serve as the forest floor and sawdust beneath a cake log rolled Then cover the whole thing with buttercream or a with a caramel- filling, coated in ganache bark, and adorned with bracket mushrooms. rich ganache. Though chocolate cake is more common, sponge but has more fat that helps tenderize it and A single bite confirmed that chiffon had been an I decided on a vanilla cake: A blond “log” would look makes it more forgiving when baked. Our recipe calls excellent choice: It was fluffy but also tender, moist, more like actual wood, and its relatively neutral taste for whisking egg yolks, water, vanilla, and vegetable and crack-free thanks to the oil. But now I had new would allow for some creativity when it came time to oil into the dry ingredients (cake flour, sugar, bak- problems: Lots of the soft filling had squished out, flavor the filling. But as I started to bake, I noticed ing powder, and salt) and then whipping the egg and the ganache had a worrisome tendency to sepa- a problem: Sponge cake—the most common choice whites and folding them into the batter. Even if you rate from the surface of the roll when I sliced the cake. for rolled cakes—has a bouncy texture due to its large lose some volume while folding, the baking powder amount of whipped eggs and small amount of fat. ensures a fluffy cake. On a Roll But that bounce also means that sponge cake can be I baked a chiffon cake, rolled it in a dish towel, The ganache was peeling because the cake’s exterior a tad chewy and tough. It’s also prone to cracking if and then unfurled it once it had cooled. I then spread was dry; in some places it was even encrusted with it’s at all overbaked. on a placeholder filling of sweetened whipped cream confectioners’ sugar from the towel. Thankfully, the I decided to try a chiffon cake, which I hadn’t and rolled the cake back up. While the log chilled, fix was simple. An outlier approach by none other than seen in many Yule log recipes. Chiffon is similar to I heated some cream, poured it over chopped Julia Child ditched the confectioners’ sugar and instead bittersweet chocolate with a bit of corn syrup for called for wrapping the cake in a clean, damp dish STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND shine, and stirred everything together to make a towel. This worked like a charm, and the ganache now NUTRITION INFORMATION smooth ganache, my choice for the frosting “bark.” adhered nicely. The damp towel also left the surface so CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 When the ganache had cooled and thickened to a moist that the cake could be wrapped, filled (but not

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY: pudding‑like consistency, I spread it over my cake. frosted), and chilled for two days with no ill effects.

2019 annual 91 Buttons Don’t Grow on Trees Christmas in the Test Kitchen Most Yule logs are festooned with button mush‑ Things got rather festive when we kicked off our Yule log development process by sampling five published rooms made of meringue. But that doesn’t make recipes, including one from our archives. Most of the cakes looked impressive, and each offered a good idea much sense since bracket fungi are the type you’re or two, but none of them delivered our idea of the full package: a realistic look, ease of preparation, and most likely to see sprouting from a log or stump. great taste and texture. So, in the spirit of authenticity, we developed a recipe for meringue bracket-style mushrooms.

MERINGUE BRACKET-STYLE MUSHROOMS MAKES ABOUT 30 TOTAL TIME: 3 HOURS

You will need a and a pastry tip with a 1/4-inch round opening, available at craft stores, for this recipe. The meringues can be made up to two weeks in advance; store them in an airtight container directly after cooling. Bittersweet Japanese Swiss Roll Bûche de Nöel Cordon Rose Chocolate Coffee-Caramel This recipe will make more mushrooms than Chocolate Roulade Bake King Singapore Bon Appétit Christmas Log Swiss Roll Cook’s Illustrated The Cake Bible Martha Stewart you need, so you can select your favorites for Rose Levy Beranbaum decorating your Yule log. For the best results, attach them to the log no more than 10 min‑ utes before serving. Emboldened by Child’s nonconformism, I decided As a finishing touch, I traced the tines of a fork over to break from tradition yet again: Instead of rolling the surface of the ganache to create a bark-like effect, 3 large egg whites up the cake from the long side, as virtually all recipes and my project was complete. Turns out, when you ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar directed and which I found awkward and unwieldy, match the ideal cake to the ideal filling, making a log Pinch table salt I rolled up mine from the short side, which made can be as easy as falling off one. 2/3 cup (42/3 ounces) sugar it much easier to control the center of the cake as I rolled. This technique produced a chubbier, more 1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle impressive log with a graceful spiral. YULE LOG DISASTERS and lower-middle positions and heat oven to Our early experiments produced a variety of 200 degrees. Using pencil, draw 15 half-circles Filling In the Details tragic results. ranging from 1 to 2 inches wide on 1 sheet of I next turned my attention to the whipped cream CAKE DROUGHT parchment paper, leaving at least 11/2 inches filling. It needed some real personality to stand up to Sponge cake—the typical choice—has lots of between half-circles. Repeat with second sheet the bittersweet chocolate ganache. Espresso powder whipped eggs and little fat, so it’s dry and prone of parchment. Place parchment pencil side down would amp up the cream, but so would caramel. to cracking if overbaked. on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Why not use both? The bitterness of the coffee would 2. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk attach‑ complement the sweet caramel. I brought a cup of ment, whip egg whites on medium speed until heavy cream and some espresso powder to a simmer foamy, about 1 minute. Add cream of tartar and in one pot while melting some sugar in another. When salt, increase speed to medium-high, and whip the sugar had caramelized, I whisked in the warm, until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. With mixer flavored cream. Then I added a cup of cold cream running, slowly add sugar. Increase speed to high to cool the mixture and refrigerated it. This filling and whip until very thick and stiff peaks form, 3 to whipped up just like regular whipped cream, and its 4 minutes. flavor was outstanding, if a little sweet. FILLING TSUNAMI 3. Fit pastry bag with 1/4-inch round pastry tip Last task: Find an easy way to firm up the filling A bit of filling is displaced with each turn, and fill with meringue. Using half-circle as guide, so it would stay put. I tried adding mascarpone, so it builds in front of the log, finally overflowing pipe concentric arcs of meringue, either smooth the soft Italian cheese. It thickened the filling a at the last turn. or frilly, until half-circle is filled. Repeat with bit, but not enough. How about cream cheese? FROST(ING) HEAVE remaining half-circles. Pipe a stem, about 1/2 inch I melted some into the warm caramel before chill- When the crumb is too dry, the ganache has wide and 1 inch long, onto straight side of each ing the mixture. nothing to cling to and separates from the cake half-circle. Moisten your fingertip with water and This new filling whipped to a promisingly thick when it’s sliced. smooth any unwanted peaks. Bake meringues buttercream-like consistency. A quick taste revealed for 2 hours, turn off oven, and leave meringues that the cream cheese had tempered the sweetness of in oven until dry and crisp, about 30 minutes. the filling without making it taste cheesy. Best of all, 4. After Yule log has come to room tem‑ the filling didn’t move when I rolled the springy yet perature, and no more than 10 minutes before cooperative cake. Suddenly, rolling a Yule log had serving, use paring knife to make small incision gone from anxiety-inducing to exhilarating. in side of log. Gently insert mushroom stem Trimming the ends of my Yule log revealed an into incision until straight side of mushroom elegant spiral within. I then cut off one end on the EDIBLE FOREST FLOOR rests against log. Repeat with desired number bias and attached it to the side of the log with some Our recipe for Chocolate Crumbles is available for free of mushrooms. ganache before frosting the rest of the log. But I left to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19

the cut ends exposed to show off the perfect swirl. LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION:

cook’s illustrated 92 CARAMEL-ESPRESSO YULE LOG STEP BY STEP SERVES 10 TO 12 ASSEMBLING A YULE LOG TOTAL TIME: 13 HOURS, PLUS 4 HOURS COOLING

We developed this recipe using Philadelphia Cream Cheese Brick Original. The filling must chill for at least 11/2 hours before whipping, so make it before organizing the ingredients for the cake and ganache. A smooth dish towel works best for rolling the cake. Some of the cake may cling to the towel, but it washes out easily. Use a high-quality chocolate for the ganache. We prefer to leave the cut surfaces of the log exposed, 1. Lay damp towel over cake on 2. Starting from short side, gently 3. Unroll cake. Spread filling evenly but there is enough ganache to cover them, if desired. rack. Invert second rack over roll cake and towel together into over cake, leaving 1/2-inch margin For a more elaborate presentation, place the cake on a towel. Invert cake; remove rack. jelly roll shape. Let cool for 1 hour. on each short side. bed of Chocolate Crumbles (the recipe is available to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/dec19) and decorate with Meringue Bracket-Style Mushrooms.

Filling 2 cups heavy cream, divided 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder 3/4 cup (5¼ ounces) granulated sugar ¼ cup water 1 tablespoon light corn syrup 4. Reroll cake without towel. 5. Trim 1/2‑inch slice from each end 6. Transfer cake to platter. Rest 4 ounces cream cheese, cut into of log. To make branch stump, cut stump against log. Spread ganache 8 pieces and softened 1 end of cake at 45-degree angle, over log and stump. Use fork to starting 11/2 inches from end. make wood-grain pattern. Cake 11/3 cups (51/3 ounces) cake flour 3/4 cup (5¼ ounces) granulated sugar 2. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack to middle 6. Transfer chilled filling to bowl of stand mixer fit- 11/2 teaspoons baking powder position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease ted with whisk attachment. Whip on high speed until ¼ teaspoon table salt 18 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, line with parch- mixture is thick and fluffy and resembles buttercream 5 large eggs, separated ment paper, and lightly grease parchment. Whisk frosting, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Gently unroll cake with 1/2 cup vegetable oil flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in large, short side parallel to counter edge (innermost edge ¼ cup water wide bowl. Whisk egg yolks, oil, water, and vanilla of cake will remain slightly curled; do not flatten). 2 teaspoons vanilla extract into flour mixture until smooth batter forms. Spread filling evenly over cake, leaving 1/2-inch margin ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 3. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, on each short side. Reroll cake, leaving towel behind whip egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low as you roll. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at Ganache speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to least 20 minutes or up to 2 days. 3/4 cup heavy cream medium-high and whip until stiff peaks form, 11/2to 7. Arrange two 12 by 4-inch strips of parchment 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine 2 minutes. Transfer one-third of whipped egg whites 1 inch apart on serving platter. Unwrap cake and 2 teaspoons light corn syrup to batter and whisk gently until mixture is lightened. place on cutting board. Using sharp chef’s knife, Using rubber spatula, gently fold remaining egg trim 1/2-inch slice from each end of log, wiping knife Confectioners’ sugar (optional) whites into batter. Pour batter into prepared sheet clean between cuts; discard trimmings. To make and spread evenly. Firmly tap sheet on counter 3 times branch stump, cut 1 end of cake at 45-degree angle, 1. FOR THE FILLING: Pour 1 cup cream to remove large air bubbles. Bake until cake springs starting 11/2 inches from end of log (shorter side of into wide bowl. Whisk together espresso powder and back when pressed lightly in center, 12 to 14 minutes. stump will be 11/2 inches long). Transfer larger cake remaining 1 cup cream in small saucepan and bring While cake bakes, soak clean dish towel with water piece to platter, centering it lengthwise on parch- to simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and wring out thoroughly. ment. To attach stump, rest straight side of smaller and cover to keep hot. Bring sugar, water, and corn 4. Transfer sheet to wire rack. Immediately run piece against side of log. Fill in top of space between syrup to boil in large heavy-bottomed saucepan over knife around edge of sheet, then carefully invert cake pieces with about 1 tablespoon ganache. Using offset medium‑high heat. Cook, without stirring, until mix- onto second wire rack. Carefully remove parchment. spatula, gently spread remaining ganache over log, ture is straw‑colored, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to Lay damp towel over cake and invert first wire rack leaving cut ends exposed. Use tines of fork to make medium-low and continue to cook, swirling saucepan over towel. Invert cake and remove rack. Starting wood-grain pattern on surface of ganache. Carefully occasionally, until mixture is deep coppery brown from short side, gently roll cake and towel together slide parchment from beneath cake (hold stump in and just starting to smoke, 4 to 7 minutes longer. Off into jelly roll shape. Let cake cool on rack, seam side place with your fingertip while sliding out parch- heat, carefully whisk in hot cream mixture a little at down, for 1 hour. ment). Refrigerate cake, uncovered, to slightly set a time (caramel will bubble and steam). Add cream 5. FOR THE GANACHE: Bring cream to ganache, about 20 minutes. (Cake can be covered cheese. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk until simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Place loosely and refrigerated for up to 24 hours; let stand mostly smooth (some small flecks of cream cheese are chocolate and corn syrup in bowl, pour cream over at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.) OK). Transfer mixture to bowl with cream and stir to top, and let stand for 1 minute. Whisk mixture until Dust lightly with confectioners’ sugar, if using. To combine. Cover and refrigerate until mixture registers smooth. Let cool until mixture has consistency of slice, dip sharp knife in very hot water and wipe dry 50 degrees or below, at least 11/2hours or up to 4 days. pudding, about 1 hour. between cuts. Serve.

2019 annual 93 An Uncommon Pie The best fruit pie you’ve never made starts with fresh plums and whole-wheat flour.

j BY LEAH COLINS k

aking a blueberry, peach, or can therefore produce disappointingly cherry pie is a terrific way to dense or crumbly baked goods—you’d celebrate the abundant fruits normally be right. But my colleague Andrea of summer. But I’ve spent the Geary came up with a unique method for Bpast several months baking pies for a adding whole-wheat flour to pie dough forthcoming test kitchen pie book, and that produces wonderfully tender and I urge you to consider another, less flaky results. common fruit filling for your next sum- The method calls for using the food mer pie: plums. The sweetness of ripe processor to make a paste with 11/2 cups plums is offset by their acidity level, of whole-wheat flour and two sticks of which is higher than those of most other butter, effectively waterproofing the flour fruits; when baked, plums offer a unique (no matter what kind of flour you use) and sweet-tart fruitiness that will have you making it hard for the flour’s proteins to hooked from the first bite. hydrate and form gluten. The paste is then broken into chunks that are coated with Plum Delicious 1 cup of all-purpose flour before being For my pie, I used red or blue-black round tossed with half a stick of grated butter. plums (21/2 pounds for a 9-inch pie); they Finally, 1/2 cup of ice water is added, are the most common and have an appeal- which hydrates the unprotected portion ing, sweet yet bright flavor. If you’ve ever of flour and allows plenty of gluten to made a peach pie, you probably remember form. Each nugget of the all-purpose flour the tedious process of blanching and peel- dough is thus surrounded by a jacket of ing the fruit so that the resilient skins don’t higher-gluten dough that provides plenty ruin the tender, sliceable texture of the of structure. filling. Well, I’m happy to report that with I used this whole-wheat dough to cre- plums, peeling is not only unnecessary but ate a pie with a lattice top—a must since it also detrimental. Plum skins are so thin A unique mixing method allows us to make a whole-wheat crust that’s would allow some of the plums’ moisture and tender that they don’t detract from tender and flaky and has a nutty aroma. to evaporate during baking. Luckily, the the succulent flesh, and if you remove the lattice was easy to weave since the dough crimson-violet skins, the pie is not nearly as attractive Pie Dough with a Twist was relatively sturdy, and the pie baked up looking (see “For Better Plum Pie, Leave the Skins On”). If my jammy, gingery filling has convinced you as great as it tasted. The crust was beautifully tender I cut the plums into slim wedges, added them that plum pie is worth adding to your rotation, and flaky, with a tawny color and a nutty aroma to a bowl with 3/4 cup of sugar, and let them macer- great. Now, allow me to push you even further that paired beautifully with the ginger‑scented ate for 15 minutes. The sugar pulled juice out of outside the box with a pie dough that calls for plum filling. the fruit that could be used to dissolve a thickener. whole-wheat flour. With this success under my belt, I also experi- I wanted my thickener to produce a clear filling If you’re thinking that it would be wise to shy mented with an earthy rye pie dough that Andrea to show off the plums. That meant that flour, which away from adding whole-grain flour to a pie crust developed, finding that it made a great match for has a tendency to turn cloudy in fruit pie fillings, was since whole-grain flours are lower in gluten—and out. In our Fresh Peach Pie (September/October 2013), we use both cornstarch and pectin to create a translucent gel. But plums have more pectin than For Better Plum Pie, peaches (one of the reasons they’re popular for Leave the Skins On jams), so cornstarch alone was sufficient. Peeling slippery plums can be maddening, so we Adding citrus is a common way to enhance fruit were happy to find that our pie actually turned out pie fillings; here, I added floral lemon zest and tangy better when we left the skins on. The thin, tender lemon juice to accentuate the tartness of the fruit. skins dyed the filling a lovely purply-red, whereas To perfume the plums with a sophisticated spiciness, skinned plums produced a filling that looked SKINS NO SKINS

I also added both ground and fresh ginger. like peaches. The bitter tannins in the skins also produced a pie that tasted a bit less sweet, which STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND we preferred. Finally, the skins’ high concentration NUTRITION INFORMATION of pectin helped create a lightly gelled texture that CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 helped hold the filling together. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 94 another fruit that’s underused in pie: apricots. STEP BY STEP WEAVING A LATTICE TOP I flavored the apricots with cardamom and vanilla to enhance their aromatic sweetness.

FRESH PLUM-GINGER PIE WITH WHOLE-WHEAT LATTICE-TOP CRUST SERVES 8 TOTAL TIME: 2½ HOURS, PLUS 7 HOURS CHILLING

Be sure to weigh the flour. To ensure the best flavor, use either recently purchased whole-wheat flour 1. Evenly space 4 dough strips 2. Fold back first and third strips 3. Unfold first and third strips over or whole-wheat flour that has been stored in the across top of pie, parallel to coun‑ almost completely. Lay 1 strip top of perpendicular strip. freezer for less than a year. In the mixing stage, this ter edge. across pie, perpendicular to dough will be more moist than most pie doughs, but counter edge. as it chills, it will become more workable. Roll the dough on a well-floured counter. If at any point the dough is too stiff to work with, let it sit at room tem- perature until it is slightly softened but still very cold. Conversely, if the dough becomes too soft to work with, refrigerate it for 30 minutes to let it firm up. Our recipe for Fresh Apricot, Vanilla, and Cardamom Pie with Rye Lattice-Top Crust is available to web subscribers at CooksIllustrated.com/aug19. 4. Fold back second and fourth 5. Repeat, alternating between 6. Trim lattice ends, press edges Pie Dough strips and add second perpendicu‑ folding back first and third strips and of bottom crust and lattice strips 20 tablespoons (21/2 sticks) unsalted butter, lar strip. Unfold second and fourth second and fourth strips and laying together, and fold under. Crimp chilled, divided strips. remaining strips evenly across pie. dough evenly around edge of pie. 11/2 cups (81 ounces) whole-wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon table salt Sprinkle remaining ¼ cup ice water over mixture into eight 11-inch-wide strips. Refrigerate strips on 1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour and toss to combine. Press dough with spatula until sheet until firm, about 30 minutes. 1/2 cup ice water, divided dough sticks together. Use spatula to divide dough 5. FOR THE FILLING: Adjust oven rack to into 2 even pieces. Transfer each piece to separate middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Filling sheet of plastic wrap. Working with 1 piece at a Whisk sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, fresh ginger, 3/4 cup (51 ounces) sugar time, draw edges of plastic over dough and press ground ginger, and salt together in large bowl. Stir 3 tablespoons cornstarch firmly on sides and top to form compact, fissure-free in plums and lemon juice and let sit for 15 minutes. 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest mass. Press 1 piece into 5-inch disk. Press remain- Spread plum mixture into even layer in chilled plus 1 tablespoon juice ing piece into 5-inch square. Wrap separately in dough-lined plate. 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger plastic and refrigerate dough for at least 2 hours or 6. To make lattice, evenly space 4 dough strips 1/ teaspoon ground ginger up to 2 days. Let chilled dough sit on counter to across top of pie, parallel to counter edge. Fold back 1/ teaspoon table salt soften slightly, about 10 minutes, before rolling. first and third strips almost completely. Lay 1 strip 21/2 pounds plums, pitted and cut into (Wrapped dough can be frozen for up to 1 month. across pie, perpendicular to counter edge, keeping 1-inch-thick wedges If frozen, let dough thaw completely on counter it snug against folded edges of dough strips. Unfold 1 large egg, lightly beaten with before rolling.) first and third strips over top of perpendicular strip. 1 tablespoon water 3. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment Fold back second and fourth strips and add second paper. Roll dough square into 101/2 by 14-inch perpendicular strip. Repeat, alternating between 1. FOR THE PIE DOUGH: Grate 4 tablespoons rectangle on well-floured counter. Transfer dough folding back first and third strips and second and butter on large holes of box grater. Transfer to freezer. to prepared sheet and refrigerate for 10 minutes. fourth strips and laying remaining strips evenly across Cut remaining 16 tablespoons butter into 1/2-inch Meanwhile, roll dough disk into 12-inch circle on pie to create lattice pattern. Shift strips as needed so cubes; set aside. Pulse whole-wheat flour, sugar, and well-floured counter. Loosely roll dough around they are evenly spaced over top of pie. Trim excess salt in food processor until combined, 2 pulses. Add rolling pin and gently unroll it onto 9-inch pie plate, lattice ends, press edges of bottom crust and lattice cubed butter and process until homogeneous paste leaving at least 1-inch overhang around edge. Ease strips together, and fold under; folded edge should forms, about 2 minutes. Using your hands, carefully dough into plate by gently lifting edge of dough be flush with edge of plate. Crimp dough evenly break paste into 2-inch chunks and redistribute evenly with your hand while pressing into plate bottom around edge of plate using your fingers. Brush around processor blade. Add all-purpose flour and with your other hand. Trim overhang to 1/2 inch dough with egg wash. pulse until mixture is broken into pieces no larger beyond lip of plate. Wrap dough-lined plate loosely 7. Bake pie on aluminum foil–lined rimmed bak- than 1 inch (most pieces will be much smaller), in plastic and refrigerate until dough is firm, about ing sheet until crust is golden, 20 to 25 minutes. 4 to 5 pulses. Transfer mixture to medium bowl. Add 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and grated butter and toss until butter pieces are separated 4. Transfer chilled dough rectangle, still on baking continue to bake until juices are bubbling and crust and coated with flour. sheet, to counter. Using pizza wheel, fluted pastry is deep golden brown, 35 to 50 minutes longer. 2. Sprinkle ¼ cup ice water over mixture. Toss wheel, or paring knife, trim 1 inch of dough from Let cool on wire rack until filling has set, about with rubber spatula until mixture is evenly moistened. long sides of rectangle, then cut rectangle lengthwise 4 hours. Serve.

2019 annual 95 An Easy and Modern Lemon Tart Butter isn’t always better. An unorthodox ingredient is the key to this simple, elegant, and brightly flavored tart.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

hen you’re a test cook, being asked to develop a recipe for a classic item such as lemon tart can be daunting. After all, bakers haveW been producing handsome, crisp-crusted filled with smooth, bracing, just-sliceable curd for centuries without my assistance. What could I possibly contribute? Well, actually, I had an idea: extra-virgin olive oil. Admittedly, it’s counterintuitive: Butter is fea- tured in both the crust and the filling of almost every lemon tart. But developing a recipe for an olive oil cake a couple of years ago reminded me that other fats offer advantages, too. Using a liquid fat in that cake made the mixing process easy and quick: There was no softening of the fat and no until light and fluffy, yet the crumb was beautifully plush and fine and the cake had an intriguing hint of olive oil flavor. In fact, the olive oil flavor in the cake was so subtle that I had to take care not to obscure it. I added a near-homeopathic dose of lemon zest—just 1 teaspoon—to boost the oil’s fruity, floral notes and left it at that. And readers loved that olive oil cake, but they voiced one small objection: not enough lemon flavor. They had a point. Olive oil and lemons have such an undeniable affinity that it seems a shame not to make the most of it. Maybe this lemon tart recipe was my chance to help the fruit side of the pairing shine. And maybe, as with the cake, olive oil would make the recipe even easier.

Subbing Oil for Butter Years ago I developed a tart dough in which I defied convention by using melted rather than cold but- ter. I simply stirred 10 tablespoons of warm melted Our lemon tart recipe calls for extra-virgin olive oil instead of butter in both the crust and the filling. butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembled Play-Doh—no food processor necessary. tablespoons of oil made the dough shiny with grease, was appropriately moist but not slick, and I had no Then, instead of rolling it out, I crumbled it straight and the baked crust was so tender and crumbly that trouble cutting the baked crust into pristine wedges. into the tart pan and pressed it to an even thickness. I couldn’t cut it into wedges without it disintegrating. There was a mere hint of olive oil flavor in the crust, There was no chilling or rolling required, and the I soon spotted my mistake. Unlike olive oil, but- which seemed perfect. But an empty tart shell, even crust baked up crunchy and rich. ter isn’t a pure fat; it’s almost 20 percent water. So one that’s so easy to make and so satisfyingly crisp, is Tweaking that recipe by substituting olive oil for 10 tablespoons of butter is actually 8 tablespoons of a forlorn thing. I needed to move on to the filling. the melted butter seemed like a no-brainer, but it fat and 2 tablespoons of water. It’s less fat overall, but didn’t work out quite the way I had envisioned it. Ten that water is important because it interacts with the All About Sliceability protein in the flour to form gluten, which provides the I worried that the olive oil substitution would fail STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND structure that holds the crust together. An absence of in this recipe because butter is a solid at room tem- NUTRITION INFORMATION water produces a too-fragile crust. perature and oil is clearly a liquid. How much of CooksIllustrated.com/APR19 When I substituted 1/2 cup of olive oil plus the sliceable nature of a lemon tart filling is owed to

2 tablespoons of water for the butter, the dough butter’s solidity? TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 96 To find out, I made two tart shells, and while they TECHNIQUE A BETTER WAY TO FORM A PAT-IN-PAN CRUST baked, I cooked two batches of filling. Each had Distributing crumbles of dough around the pan means you won’t run out of dough before the edge is complete. 1 cup of sugar, 2/3 cup of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of zest, three whole eggs, and three yolks. I whisked them over medium-low heat until they were thick, and then I took them off the heat and whisked 1/cup of butter into one and 1 cup of olive oil into the other. I strained each batch before transfer- ring it to a shell and returning it to the oven. After 10 minutes, when both fillings had gelled, I set the tarts on the counter to cool. They looked remarkably similar, but I knew that any differences would show 1. Crumble three-quarters of 2. Crumble remaining one-quarter 3. Press dough across bottom of up when the butter had reverted to its solid state. dough into bottom of tart pan and of dough evenly around edge of pan until even and smooth. After 2 hours, I sliced. I was astonished to find press to even thickness. pan and press into fluted sides. that the olive oil version wasn’t softer than the butter version. Turns out, most of the firmness of lemon curd comes from the coagulation of the egg But if, by chance, this tart is too lemony for your proteins (see “Why a Liquid Fat Doesn’t Make a taste, I have an olive oil cake recipe you might like. What’s EVOO Doing Loose Curd”). But that’s not to say that the two in Lemon Tart? fillings were exactly alike. LEMON–OLIVE OIL TART Unlike butter, olive oil doesn’t require SERVES 8 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 2 HOURS COOLING melting to make our pat‑in‑the-pan Taming Acidity crust. As for the filling, olive oil and The olive oil filling was so tart that it made my Use a fresh, high-quality extra-virgin olive oil here; lemon have a natural affinity, but forehead perspire, but the butter had softened the we like Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Original, Rich interestingly, you need less lemon acidity in the other filling, leaving it milder but still Taste and California Olive Ranch Destination Series without butter in the picture. That’s lemony. Butter contains dairy proteins that bind to Everyday Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Make sure that all because dairy proteins in the lemon juice in two ways. First, the proteins bind your metal equipment is nonreactive, or the filling butter bind to fla‑ to the acid, muting its sour taste. They also bind to may have a metallic flavor. vor com­pounds in other flavor compounds in lemon, such as limonene, lemon, muting its reducing the lemon flavor even more. Since olive oil Crust flavor in curd. does not contain dairy proteins, it does not reduce 11/2 cups (71/2 ounces) all-purpose flour lemon flavor. The universe seemed to be handing 5 tablespoons (2¼ ounces) sugar me an excuse to juice one less lemon, so I grabbed it 1/2 teaspoon table salt Using your hands, crumble three-quarters of dough and decreased the lemon juice in the olive oil version 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil over bottom of 9-inch tart pan with removable to 1/2 cup. The smaller amount of juice would make 2 tablespoons water bottom. Press dough to even thickness in bottom the filling just a bit firmer, too. of pan. Crumble remaining dough and scatter Finally, I considered adding some starch to the Filling evenly around edge of pan, then press crumbled filling, figuring that it could help further temper 1 cup (7 ounces) sugar dough into fluted sides of pan. Press dough to the acidity and also slow down the bonding of the 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour even thickness. Place pan on rimmed baking sheet eggs’ proteins as they cooked, to prevent curdling. 1/4 teaspoon table salt and bake until crust is deep golden brown and firm Cornstarch and flour each worked equally well, 3 large eggs plus 3 large yolks to touch, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating pan halfway but because I already had flour in the crust, I went 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest plus 1/2 cup through baking. with that. The filling in the final tart was creamy juice (3 lemons) 2. FOR THE FILLING: About 5 minutes and tender, but it sliced beautifully and each wedge 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil before crust is finished baking, whisk sugar, flour, had a perfectly clean point. The crust was crisp and and salt in medium saucepan until combined. remained so even after the tart was refrigerated for 1. FOR THE CRUST: Adjust oven rack to Whisk in eggs and yolks until no streaks of egg three days. Though there was a tiny bit of olive oil middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. remain. Whisk in lemon zest and juice. Cook over pepperiness on the finish, the tart’s flavor was mostly Whisk flour, sugar, and salt together in bowl. Add medium‑low heat, whisking constantly and scraping bright and lemony. oil and water and stir until uniform dough forms. corners of saucepan, until mixture thickens slightly and registers 160 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes. 3. Off heat, whisk in oil until incorporated. Strain SCIENCE Why a Liquid Fat Doesn’t curd through fine-mesh strainer set over bowl. Pour Make a Loose Curd curd into warm tart shell. We worried that using olive oil instead of butter in our filling 4. Bake until filling is set and barely jiggles would cause it to be runny, but it was actually beautifully slice‑ when pan is shaken, 8 to 12 minutes. Let tart cool able. That’s because the firmness of a curd made with butter completely on wire rack, at least 2 hours. Remove is due mainly to the coagulation of the egg proteins, not to the outer metal ring of tart pan. Slide thin metal spatula hardening of the butter when it cools. As the curd cooks, the between tart and pan bottom, then carefully slide protein molecules in the eggs unwind into long strands, which tart onto serving platter. Cut tart into wedges, wip- tangle to make a mesh that traps liquid. The tangling continues ing knife clean between cuts if necessary, and serve. as the curd cools, creating a creamy yet firm texture. BUTTER OR OIL? BOTH CUT CLEAN. (Leftovers can be wrapped loosely in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

2019 annual 97 Apple Lover’s Apple Crumble A rustic dessert such as crumble should show off the fruit’s tangy freshness—not bury it in sugar. We rebuilt this classic from the bottom up so that it does right by the apples.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

rustic apple crumble has always To bulk up the ratio of filling to topping, been my favorite way to high- I started with 4 pounds of apples, peeling, light apples: It lets their bright, coring, and cutting them into small chunks tart character shine. But even so that they’d fit as compactly as possible recipesA that promise to put the apples first into the baking dish and seasoning them inevitably have you bury the fruit in sugar with 2 tablespoons of sugar—less than and then double down on that sweetness half the amount that I’ve seen in other by blanketing it with a thick layer of streu- recipes—and a little cinnamon. But the fruit sel. By the time you add a scoop of ice mounded over the edge of the dish, so when cream, the whole ensemble tastes sweet I tried covering it with a simple from top to bottom and totally misses the (flour, dark brown sugar, salt, and melted point—it’s like heating really good olive butter), the soft clumps tumbled off. oil so that it loses its grassy bite or cook- That explained why most recipes refrain ing a thick, well-marbled steak until the from loading up on the apples, but I real- center goes gray. ized that there was a way to fit all 4 pounds Don’t get me wrong: I love everything of fruit by taking advantage of its tendency about apple crumble—the pragmatism of to shrink: I parcooked the apples before using up the fruit, the throw‑together ease, applying the topping, so they collapsed and and the satisfying contrast of tangy, tender created a substantial but compact layer of fruit against a buttery, delicately crunchy filling with just enough headspace for the topping. And I’m not antisugar; the fruit’s streusel. The trick was baking the apples on acid needs a healthy dose of the sweet stuff the lower rack in a hot oven (the closer that to make a dessert that feels gratifying and food is to the oven floor, the closer it is to balanced. But for the sake of apple lovers the heat source) with a sheet of aluminum such as myself, it was time to bake a better foil crimped over the baking dish to trap crumble: one that celebrates the apples by steam, until they started to collapse. Then dialing down the sweetness and packing in Moistening the streusel with a little water hydrates bits of dry flour and I uncovered the dish, smoothed the apples as much fruit as possible. helps the dough clump while nuts add crunch and break up its structure. into an even layer that sat about 1/4 inch below the lip of the baking dish, scattered Out of Proportion a way to make it brighter), and structural integrity. the streusel over the top, and returned the dish to the Using a tart apple might seem like the most logical Most recipes call for piling 2 to 3 pounds of apples oven for another half-hour to brown the topping. starting point for a bright-tasting filling, but if you’ve into an 8-inch square baking dish, making sure to Chockablock with apples and capped with just done much baking with apples, you know that you leave at least 1/4 inch of headspace for the streusel. enough streusel, the crumble’s proportions were can’t base the choice on flavor alone. Bracingly tart But this leads to a ratio problem: Apples shrink down in good shape—about a 5:1 ratio of filling to top- Granny Smiths, for example, can collapse into mush as they cook, and by the time they’re tender, you’re ping. But the texture and flavor of the fruit were when baked, so we often avoid them in the test left with a scant layer of filling (2 parts filling to not. The apples touching the edges of the dish had kitchen when we want the cooked fruit to retain some 1 part topping is a common result). Plus, the mois- broken down into sauce by the time the topping shape. Instead, I opted for Golden Delicious, an apple ture that the apples exude during baking saturates browned, so going forward I moved the crumble to variety that offers year-round and near-universal avail- the part of the streusel where the filling and topping a higher oven rack after I applied the topping; that ability, balanced sweet-tart flavor (later, I’d work out meet, producing a soggy, interface. put some distance between

Our Incomplete, Highly Controversial BROWN BETTY COBBLER Sweetened fruit baked with layers Biscuit dough dolloped over fruit Glossary of Fruit of bread crumbs and butter to resemble cobblestones If there’s anything more satisfying than tucking into a crumble, grunt, or sonker, it’s their quirky (and controversial) monikers. Each of these desserts is composed of fruit and a sweetened topping, the latter of which can be anything from a pastry or biscuit dough to a -like BUCKLE batter to a loose streusel—and the definitions often vary by region. Thick cake batter

Here are a handful of our favorites and their defining characteristics. poured over fruit LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: TREMBLAY; CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 98 Don’t Dive In Too Soon but also fat that made the filling more resistant to PUTTING MORE APPLE IN the fruit’s exuded moisture. What’s more, the nuts APPLE CRUMBLE loosened up the structure of the topping so that it Baked fruit desserts such as apple crumble should didn’t bake up compact and dense. I also made sure have a substantial ratio of filling to topping (in our to scatter the streusel loosely over the apples to allow book, about 5 to 1) so that you primarily taste more of the fruit’s moisture to escape during baking. the bright flavor of the fruit and then the crunch Scooping out the fruit-packed crumble was and sweetness of the topping. To achieve that visual proof that the apples were finally getting their goal, we take advantage of the apples’ tendency due. Tasting the clean, bright punch of the filling to shrink as they cook. alongside the nutty, buttery, not-too-sweet streusel topping was even more convincing.

Waiting at least 45 minutes before digging in to the APPLE CRUMBLE crumble will be hard but worth it. As the dessert SERVES 6 TO 8 cools, the apples’ pectin molecules (which dissolve TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 45 MINUTES COOLING in the fruit’s water during cooking) form a gel that immobilizes the water, resulting in a nicely We like Golden Delicious apples because of their set filling. Cut into the crumble before that gel ubiquity and consistent quality, but this recipe also PILE ON THE FRUIT Mounding the baking pan with apples ensures that has firmed and the filling runs out like hot soup. works with Braeburn or Honeycrisp apples or a mix there will be a substantial layer of fruit filling. of all three. You should have 4 pounds of apples before peeling and coring. Dark brown sugar gives the apple layer and the heat source so that it cooked the topping a deeper color, but light brown sugar will more gently during the second phase and brought also work. Do not use a glass baking dish here, since the streusel closer to the heat reflecting off the oven it retains heat after baking and may cause the apples ceiling, helping it brown quickly. (Using a metal bak- to overcook. If you like, serve the crumble with ice ing pan also helped prevent carryover cooking, since cream or lightly whipped cream. it retains less heat outside the oven than a glass dish.) To punch up the apples’ acidity and overall flavor, 4 pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled, SHRINK IT DOWN BY I tossed the fruit with 2 tablespoons of lemon juice cored, and cut into 3/4-inch pieces Cooked under a foil cover, the apples collapse into and a touch of salt before baking. (This also lowered 2 tablespoons packed plus 1/2 cup packed a compact but still generous layer of filling that the pH of the dish, helping the fruit maintain its (31/2 ounces) dark brown sugar, divided leaves just enough headspace for the topping. shape during cooking.) 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon table salt, divided Over the Top 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon butter, vanilla, and water and stir with spatula until Waiting to apply the streusel until midway through 1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour clumps form and no dry flour remains. baking had the added benefit of minimizing the time 1/2 cup sliced almonds, chopped fine 3. Remove sheet from oven and smooth top of it spent soaking up liquid from the fruit, so now 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted apples with spatula. If apples have not collapsed there was less of that soggy interface. But the dough 2 teaspoons vanilla extract enough to leave at least 1/4 inch of space below rim of touching the fruit was still a bit soft and damp, while 2 teaspoons water pan, replace foil, return sheet to oven, and continue the rest was actually loose and dry, like a too-short to bake 5 to 15 minutes longer. cookie. It was a textural schism, and to fix it I needed 1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lowest 4. Discard foil. Scatter topping evenly over two opposing solutions to work in tandem. positions and heat oven to 400 degrees. Toss apples, apples, breaking up any clumps larger than a marble. The first was water—an unusual addition to streu- 2 tablespoons sugar, lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, Transfer sheet to upper rack and bake until topping sel dough that hydrated the dry flour, dissolved some and cinnamon together in large bowl. Transfer to is evenly browned and filling is just bubbling at of the sugar so that it was less gritty, and helped the 8-inch square baking pan with at least 2-inch sides and edges, 25 to 35 minutes. Transfer pan to wire rack dough form larger clumps. Two teaspoons of water press into even layer. Cover pan tightly with alumi- and let cool for at least 45 minutes before serving. plus two teaspoons of vanilla extract (which also added num foil and place on rimmed baking sheet. Transfer depth to the streusel’s flavor) moistened the dough. sheet to oven and bake on lower rack for 35 minutes. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND The second was nuts. Plenty of crumble recipes call for 2. While apples bake, whisk flour, almonds, NUTRITION INFORMATION mixing them into the topping, and when I worked in remaining 1/2 cup sugar, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon CooksIllustrated.com/OCT19 some chopped almonds, they added not just crunch salt in medium bowl until combined. Add melted

CRISP PANDOWDY Fruit baked under a crunchy, Pie dough or bread that is streusel-like topping, which pressed into fruit as it bakes often contains oats

SLUMP/GRUNT CRUMBLE Fruit cooked beneath dollops SONKER An oat-free streusel of soft dumpling dough that Syrupy cooked fruit baked

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE (TOP), JAY LAYMAN (BOTTOM) LAYMAN JAY (TOP), JOHN BURGOYNE ILLUSTRATION: baked over fruit “slump” under heat under a pancake batter

2019 annual 99 How to Make a Better Blondie Most blondies have a one-note sweetness and too many (and the wrong kind of) mix-ins. We wanted ours to be chewy, complex, and full of nutty, butterscotchy goodness.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

o blondes have more fun? would help just a little. Working with a stan- Compared with brownies, dard recipe from my research—a 1:1 ratio which get far more attention of sugar to flour, salt, baking powder, a than their fairer counterpart, couple of eggs, vanilla extract, and one stick DI’m not so sure. While you have to look of melted butter—I ran a quick side-by-side hard to find a truly bad brownie, pale, test. Interestingly, most tasters panned the cloying blondies seem more the rule than dark brown sugar for making the blondies the exception. Add the fact that they’re taste more like molasses than butterscotch; often overloaded with ingredients such as they also preferred the more golden color of bland white chocolate chips or artificially the bars made with light brown sugar. flavored butterscotch morsels and it’s a But I did have something more promis- wonder they have any fun at all. ing in mind to try: Instead of just melting That’s too bad, because those times I’ve the butter, I would brown it to create warm, run across a blondie that’s moist, chewy, toasty, nutty flavors. So for my next batch of slightly dense, and full of complex butter- bars, I cooked the butter in a skillet until the scotch goodness, I’ve always thought that it milk solids had turned a dark golden brown could hold its own next to any baked treat, and had a nutty fragrance, combined it with let alone a brownie. I wanted to perfect this the other ingredients, and then baked the bar and give it the respect it deserves. batter in a 13 by 9-inch pan in a 350-degree oven until lightly golden. This was a big step Mistaken Identities in the right direction: The blondies tasted Before I got down to serious testing, decidedly more nutty and rich. I decided to experiment with two popular A colleague had another idea: Since notions—that blondies are simply brownies vanilla extract’s earthy, woodsy notes mirror stripped of chocolate, or they’re chocolate and complement butterscotch flavors, why chip cookies pressed and baked in a pan. not try more of it? Doubling the amount of (There’s actually an argument for the first Because our blondies are thicker than usual, we can bake them longer, vanilla worked so well to deepen the warm idea; see “Move Over, Brownie—Blondie which results in a deeply browned top layer full of rich toffee flavor. caramel flavor in the bars that I kept going Got Here First.”) and tripled it. I took recipes for chewy brownies and chewy No More Blandies Increasing the vanilla gave me the idea to increase chocolate chip cookies, eliminated the chocolate in The first decision I faced was the mixing method. another ingredient: the salt. Salt is included in most the former, and patted the dough for the latter into Blondie recipes typically call either for creaming sweet applications because it helps sharpen all the a 13 by 9-inch pan. Not surprisingly, when I baked butter and sugar and then adding the eggs and flavors, particularly nutty, buttery ones. When them both off, each confection was a dud. dry ingredients or for mixing melted butter with I doubled it from 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon, those Without the starch contributed by the cocoa pow- the sugar and eggs before incorporating the dry flavors stood out a little more in my blondies and der in the brownie recipe to help absorb moisture and ingredients. Since creaming the butter and sugar the sweetness a little less. fat, the bars were gummy and greasy. They were also incorporates air that results in a cakey texture, sickeningly sweet. As for the chocolate chip cookie I settled on the second method, which leads to a Domino Effect bars, which I baked long enough to ensure that the denser, chewier bar. But I still wanted to cut back more on the dough at the center of the pan wasn’t gooey, they Next order of business: boosting butterscotch fla- sweetness. When I decreased the sugar, the results were mostly dry and tough, particularly the edge vor. Most blondie recipes call for light brown sugar, were a good reminder that sugar is never merely a pieces. They also lacked some of the nice toffee notes and I wondered if using dark brown sugar instead sweetener in baking; it plays multiple roles—and that cookies gain from browning when they are baked individually on a cookie sheet. Clearly, a blondie has its own identity, and I’d Move Over, Brownie—Blondie Got Here First have to treat it that way to create a successful version. Though the origins of both bars are murky, evidence suggests that the first brownie was actually (drum roll, please) a blondie. One of the first recipes for a confection dubbed a “brownie” appears in the 1896 edition of Fannie Farmer’s STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book in reference to individual cakes flavored with molasses and baked in shallow tins; NUTRITION INFORMATION this was followed in the 1906 edition by a new version of the same recipe calling for chocolate. Over time, the name CooksIllustrated.com/FEB19 for the molasses brownies morphed into “blonde brownies,” then “butterscotch brownies,” and finally, decades later

(some suggest as late as the 1980s), simply “blondies,” conferring upon this confection an identity all its own. TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 100 messing with its proportions has consequences. Secrets to Superior Blondies Because brown sugar adds moisture and, like For a properly moist, chewy texture, you can’t get around using sufficient sugar in a blondie. But our bars all sugar, is hygroscopic (it attracts and retains have so many other nutty, buttery, caramel-y flavors that the sweetness stays in check. Here’s how we cre- moisture), even 1/4 cup less made the bars drier. ated an ideal version. Sugar also acts as a tenderizer by interfering with the flour proteins’ ability to form gluten, and less BROWNED BUTTER: Melted butter contributes to chewy texture. Browning it darkens the milk solids to of it made the bars a little tough. create toasty, nutty depth. I needed a sweetener that performed all the positive actions of sugar but wasn’t too sweet. BROWN SUGAR + CORN SYRUP: Brown sugar contributes toffee notes, The obvious choice was corn syrup. Unlike the and both sweeteners enhance chewy texture. Corn syrup is also less sweet high-fructose corn syrup used to make soda, which than other sugars. is much sweeter than sugar, regular corn syrup is actually less sweet: Made by breaking down starch LOTS OF VANILLA: Two full tablespoons of vanilla enhance into glucose molecules and small glucose chains, caramel‑like flavors. corn syrup is about 50 percent less sweet than white and brown sugars. I subbed in 1/3 cup for 1/4 cup of PLENTY OF SALT: More than the usual amount of salt in the brown sugar. Even though the corn syrup’s volume batter (plus more on top) brings all the flavors into focus. was greater, the cookies tasted noticeably less sweet. I had the flavor right where I wanted it, but COMPLEMENTARY MIX-INS: Pecans add buttery richness; I wasn’t quite done. Some tasters thought the blon- milk (versus dark) chocolate chips don’t overwhelm the but- dies lacked stature. When I scaled up my recipe by terscotch notes. 25 percent to create thicker bars, I found I had to double the baking time. This had the unintended but happy consequence of drying out the top of It was time to add complementary elements such 1 cup pecans, toasted and chopped coarse the batter, so it browned more deeply and had even as nuts and chips. Most recipes call for walnuts, 1/2 cup (3 ounces) milk chocolate chips more nutty, caramelized flavor while the interior but I chose pecans, which have a more buttery 1/4 –1/2 teaspoon flake sea salt, crumbled (optional) remained moist and chewy. flavor. For chips, I passed on white chocolate and butterscotch morsels as well as dark chocolate 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat chips. Instead I opted for milk chocolate morsels, oven to 350 degrees. Make foil sling for 13 by 9-inch RECIPE TESTING whose mild dairy sweetness didn’t overpower the baking pan by folding 2 long sheets of aluminum foil; TWO WRONG WAYS TO MAKE caramel flavor. first sheet should be 13 inches wide and second sheet A BLONDIE As a final touch, I crumbled flaky sea salt over should be 9 inches wide. Lay sheets of foil in pan the batter before it went into the oven. After the perpendicular to each other, with extra foil hanging In our quest for a great blondie, we put two com- bars cooled completely, I cut them into squares. over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides monly held notions about how to make a blondie These blondies were exactly as I’d envisioned: moist, of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Lightly spray foil to the test. The results were not favorable. chewy, wonderfully complex and butterscotchy, and with vegetable oil spray. not too sweet. The nuts and chocolate played nicely 2. Whisk flour, table salt, and baking powder with the browned butter, and the crunchy pops of together in medium bowl. flaky salt made for an appealing contrast. 3. Heat butter in 10-inch skillet over medium‑high I was equally thrilled to find that the bars kept heat until melted, about 2 minutes. Continue to very well—for close to a week—at room tempera- cook, swirling skillet and stirring constantly with ture. Though I doubted they’d last that long. rubber spatula, until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes longer. Remove BROWNED BUTTER BLONDIES skillet from heat and transfer browned butter to large ( Test: Eliminate the chocolate in brownie batter MAKES 24 BLONDIES heatproof bowl. Results: Without the starch from cocoa powder TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 2 HOURS COOLING 4. Add sugar to hot butter and whisk until com- to absorb liquid, the bars baked up greasy and bined. Add eggs, corn syrup, and vanilla and whisk gummy. They were also horribly sweet. We developed this recipe using a metal baking pan; until smooth. Using rubber spatula, stir in flour using a glass baking dish may cause the blondies to mixture until fully incorporated. Stir in pecans and overbake. Toast the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet chocolate chips. Transfer batter to prepared pan; in a 350-degree oven until fragrant, 8 to 12 minutes, using spatula, spread batter into corners of pan and stirring them halfway through. The test kitchen’s smooth surface. Sprinkle with sea salt, if using. Bake favorite unsalted butter is Challenge Unsalted Butter. until top is deep golden brown and springs backs when lightly pressed, 35 to 40 minutes, rotating 21/4 cups (111/4 ounces) all-purpose flour pan halfway through baking (blondies will firm as 11/4 teaspoons table salt they cool). ( Test: Bake chocolate chip cookie dough in a 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 5. Let blondies cool completely in pan on wire 13 by 9-inch baking pan 12 tablespoons unsalted butter rack, about 2 hours. Using foil overhang, lift blond- Results: Without the browning that individually 13/4 cups packed (121/4 ounces) light brown sugar ies out of pan and transfer to cutting board. Remove baked cookies achieve, the bars lacked butter- 3 large eggs foil. Cut into 24 bars. (Blondies can be wrapped scotch flavor; they were also dry and tough. 1/2 cup corn syrup tightly in plastic wrap and stored at room tempera- 2 tablespoons vanilla extract ture for up to 5 days.)

2019 annual 101 Best Ice Cream Sandwiches Browned butter, brown sugar, and vanilla give chocolate chip cookies toffee-like depth. But it’s a purely pedestrian addition that keeps them tender enough when frozen.

j BY LAN LAM k

en years ago, this magazine over time. It made me wonder if I should published a recipe for chocolate be making a moister cookie from the start. chip cookies that we consider To find out, I went straight to the perfect: crisp, deeply caramel- source, adding various amounts of water to izedT edges; chewy centers; gooey pockets the dough along with the egg and vanilla. of dark chocolate; and complex, toffee‑like Ultimately, I settled on 2 tablespoons, flavor that’s not too sweet. Trust me when which, combined with a good 8 hours in the I say that a glass of milk will never know a freezer, made for cookies sturdy enough to better companion. sandwich the ice cream but tender enough So when I decided to make chocolate to bite through with just a hint of snap. (For chip cookie ice cream sandwiches, I fig- a full explanation, see “How More Water ured I had the cookie part all figured out. Makes Softer Frozen Cookies.”) I baked off a batch, sandwiched two around I also replaced the granulated sugar a scoop of my favorite premium ice cream, with more dark brown sugar, since the and froze the sandwich until solid. molasses in brown sugar is a source of Then I tried to take a bite. The cook- simple sugars (glucose and fructose) that ies were so hard my teeth couldn’t get are hygroscopic—that is, very effective at through them, and all that force caused attracting water. the ice cream to squish out the sides. Brown sugar also boosted that prized When I finally did bite through the cook- deep toffee flavor, though not quite enough, ies, I found that the cold temperature had so I also browned all the butter, which maxi- completely dulled their exceptional but- mized the amounts of browned flecks and terscotch flavor. aromatic compounds that make the flavor Obviously, these chocolate chip cookies of browned butter rich and round. I also weren’t perfect for ice cream sandwiches, but upped the amounts of vanilla and salt, all I hoped they’d be a good jumping‑off point of which added up to cookies that boasted for calibrating a great . To Fill the cookies with your favorite ice cream (any flavor will work) and big toffee‑like, hazelnutty richness even after compensate for the freezer’s flavor-dulling press mini chocolate chips into the side for crunch. spending hours in the freezer. effect, I wanted even more deep toffee flavor packed into a cookie that would be thin and 325 degrees so that the dough had more time to Here’s the Scoop tender enough to bite through when cold but still spread before it set. Now that the cookie component was squared firm enough to house a generous layer of ice cream. These cookies were not only thinner but also away, I focused on instituting some best practices flatter and more uniform in texture from edge Dimensional Analysis to edge, since the lower baking temperature had I figured out that 2 parts ice cream to 1 part cook- allowed the edges and centers to bake at nearly the FILLING COOKIES EVENLY ies was the ideal ratio. The cookies I’d been using same rate. But once frozen, the cookies were still After placing the ice cream in the center of the were each about 1/2 inch thick; once I’d added a hard and brittle. overturned cookie and topping it with the second 2-inch‑thick layer of ice cream, it was all too much cookie, gently press and twist the sandwiches of a mouthful—the frozen-dessert equivalent of a Just Add Water until the ice cream spreads to the edges. New York deli sandwich. Quarter‑inch-thick cookies One small fix was to swap out the regular chocolate surrounding a 1-inch-thick ice cream center would chips for mini morsels. The mini chips were easier make for a more edible package. to bite through; in fact, I enjoyed their delicate Fortunately, it was easy to make thinner cook- crunch so much that I pressed more into the ice ies: I again made the dough for our chocolate cream around the rim of the sandwich for a dose of chip cookies, but instead of baking the cookies Chipwich nostalgia. at 375 degrees, I dropped the temperature to But then I made a fortuitous discovery. Until now, I had been freezing the sandwiches for just STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND a few hours. When I happened to leave a batch in NUTRITION INFORMATION the freezer for nearly 24 hours, I noticed that the CooksIllustrated.com/AUG19 cookies were much softer than before, clearly hav- DO THE TWIST

ing absorbed more moisture from the ice cream TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 102 SCIENCE How More Water If you love the deep toffee flavor and crisp-tender Boosting Flavor in the Cold Makes Softer Frozen Cookies texture of our Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookies Cold temperatures are known for dulling fla- We made several changes to our Perfect (May/June 2009), you’ll appreciate this ice cream vor. They diminish the responsiveness of our Chocolate Chip Cookies recipe to engineer sandwich version, too. And if you were raised on tastebuds’ receptor proteins, hindering our a frozen cookie that was soft enough to bite Chipwiches, consider this a nostalgic upgrade. ability to taste, and they slow the movement through. Our new cookie contains a bit more fat of aromatic compounds, preventing our noses and a bit less sugar, but the real outlier is some- CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE from detecting them. To compensate for the thing rarely considered in cookie composition: ICE CREAM SANDWICHES flavor-zapping effect of freezing our ice cream water. In fact, our cookie MAKES 12 SANDWICHES sandwiches, we use brown sugar instead of dough contains almost twice as much water as TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS, PLUS 9 HOURS CHILLING white and up the amounts of browned but- our “Perfect” formula. That may sound counter- ter, brown sugar, vanilla, and salt. This not intuitive—you’d think frozen water would make These sandwiches should be made at least 8 hours only boosts the complex flavors we taste on cookies harder—but it works because the sugar before serving. For the best results, weigh the flour our tongues but also increases the number in the dough lowers the temperature at which and sugar for the cookies. We prefer the deeper of aromatic compounds we smell, resulting in water freezes, keeping it fluid. By increasing the flavor of dark brown sugar here, but light brown better‑tasting cookies. amount of sugary water in the dough, we were sugar will also work. Use your favorite ice cream. able to make the cookies more tender. If using a premium ice cream such as Ben & Jerry’s or Häagen-Dazs, which is likely to be harder than a over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring and scrap- JUST ADD WATER less-premium brand when frozen, let the ice cream ing skillet constantly with rubber spatula, until For soft and tender frozen cookies, add 2 tablespoons of water. soften slightly in the refrigerator before scooping. milk solids are dark golden brown and butter has If you have it, a #16 scoop works well for portion- nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Immediately transfer ing the ice cream. We like these sandwiches with to heatproof large bowl. Whisk in sugar and salt chocolate chips pressed into the sides, but the until fully incorporated and let mixture cool for garnish is optional. 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Stir flour and baking 10 tablespoons unsalted butter soda together in second bowl; set aside. 3/4 cup packed (51/4 ounces) dark 2. Add egg, water, and vanilla to browned butter brown sugar mixture and whisk until smooth, about 30 seconds. 3/4 teaspoon table salt Using rubber spatula, stir in flour mixture until for making tidy, professional-looking ice cream 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (52/3 ounces) combined. Stir in 1/2 cup chocolate chips. (Dough sandwiches. Making sure to center the scoops of all-purpose flour will be very soft.) ice cream on the cookies translated into neater 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 3. Using #60 scoop or 1-tablespoon mea- results. Paying attention to the ice cream itself 1 large egg sure, evenly space 12 mounds of dough on each mattered, too: Premium ice cream products 2 tablespoons water prepared sheet. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, with lower overrun—the amount of air that gets 2 teaspoons vanilla extract until puffed and golden brown, 9 to 12 min- added during churning to make ice cream light 1/2 cup (3 ounces) mini semisweet chocolate utes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Let and fluffy rather than dense—were harder to chips, plus 1 cup for optional garnish cookies cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then trans- scoop straight from the freezer, so when I used 3 pints ice cream fer to wire rack and let cool completely, about those, I briefly tempered, or softened, the ice 45 minutes. Place 1 sheet, still lined with parch- cream in the refrigerator to make it easier to 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat ment, in freezer. scoop and then press to the edges of the cookies. oven to 325 degrees. Melt butter in 10-inch skillet 4. Place 4 cookies upside down on counter. Quickly deposit 2-inch-tall, 2-inch-wide scoop of ice cream in center of each cookie. Place 1 cookie Blueprint for the from wire rack right side up on top of each scoop. Perfect Ice Cream Gently press and twist each sandwich between your Sandwich 2-INCH SCOOP OF ICE CREAM hands until ice cream spreads to edges of cookies Flattens into manageable 1-inch-tall by 3-inch-wide disk (this doesn’t have to be perfect; ice cream can be neatened after chilling). Transfer sandwiches to sheet in freezer. Repeat with remaining cookies and 1/4-INCH-THICK remaining ice cream. Place 1 cup chocolate chips, 11/2-INCH- COOKIE THICK Thin and tender if using, in shallow bowl or pie plate. SANDWICH enough to bite 5. Remove first 4 sandwiches from freezer. Substantial through but firm Working with 1 sandwich at a time, hold sand- but not too enough to house wiches over bowl of chocolate chips and gently ice cream tall; perfect press chocolate chips into sides of sandwiches with 2:1 ratio of ice cream your other hand, neatening ice cream if necessary. MINI CHIPS to cookies Return garnished sandwiches to freezer and repeat FOR COOKIES with remaining 8 sandwiches in 2 batches. Freeze AND GARNISH sandwiches for at least 8 hours before serving. Add delicate 3-INCH DIAMETER crunch and burst of (Sandwiches can be individually wrapped tightly Broad enough to house ice cream without making sandwich too tall chocolate flavor in plastic wrap, transferred to zipper-lock bag, and

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: frozen for up to 2 months.)

2019 annual 103 Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies Commonplace ingredients and a quick mixing method make these cookies convenient; the chewy texture and robust peanut flavor make them irresistible.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

’m a peanut butter fanatic, and I feel spread at all in the oven and emerged dry uneasy if I don’t have an extra jar and cracked at the edges. or two of the stuff stashed away “just in case.” So you might be sur- Chewing the Fat prisedI to learn that peanut butter cookies I suspected that peanut butter–butter swap haven’t always been my first choice for was to blame for the stiff, dry results. Butter spur-of‑the-moment baking. After all, the is mostly pure fat (it’s also about 20 percent cookies’ other ingredients are constants water), but peanut butter contains protein in my kitchen, too. But the truth is that and starch. According to Lisa Dean, research I enjoy most peanut butter cookies only food technologist at the U.S. Department of when they’re warm and fresh. As they Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service, cool, so does my enthusiasm. the protein in peanut butter swells and I wanted to think that a solution to these absorbs added water: This phenomenon was flaws would come easy to a peanut butter surely drying out my cookies. But the peanut devotee such as myself. But after weeks of butter’s dry-matter content was potentially trying to devise a recipe for cookies with useful: If I could rely on peanut butter robust peanut flavor and lasting chew, I had protein and starch instead of some of the to admit that a fix was anything but easy— flour to give my cookies structure, maybe and was not, as I’d initially hoped, simply a I could prevent the cookies from drying matter of packing more peanut butter into out and gain more robust peanut flavor in the dough (read on to find out why). When one fell swoop. I did finally nail a formula that produced But decreasing the flour to 11/2 cups soft, chewy, deeply nutty cookies, I humbly got me only part of the way to my goal. realized that the trick boiled down to a subtle The dough was softer, the cookies spread but fundamental point of baking: ratios. more, and their flavor improved, but biting into the cookies caused them to crumble, Losing My Balance Chopped dry-roasted peanuts provide extra richness and contrasting and overall they were now more tender I decided to focus on producing a chewy crunch to these perfectly chewy cookies. than chewy. texture first, and luckily I was on familiar It took a few more tests, but I finally fig- ground. Several factors contribute to chewiness and vanilla, I stirred in the flour, baking soda, and ured out that the absolute limit on the ratio of peanut in cookies (including adequate amounts of sugar salt. Then I scooped equal portions onto a bak- butter to flour was 1 cup to 11/2 cups, respectively. and moisture), but fat is also key. While develop- ing sheet, used a fork to imprint the tops with the Any more peanut butter and the cookies didn’t have ing a brownie recipe years ago, I discovered that cookie’s hallmark crosshatch pattern, baked them, enough flour for gluten development, which left the boxed‑mix brownies get their beguil- and let them cool briefly. cookies too crumbly. ingly chewy texture from a specific With all that butter, 56 percent of But that satisfying chew still eluded me until ratio of saturated fat to unsaturated the fat in the dough was saturated, I realized that, in general, fat acts a tenderizer in fat in the batter: 30 percent saturated producing a cookie that was tender baked goods. Was it possible that my recipe simply to 70 percent unsaturated. Since then, and short instead of chewy; it also had too much fat overall? To find out, I dropped the I’ve applied that fat ratio to recipes for lacked nutty flavor. Most of the butter from 1/2 cup to 1/4 cup. This not only brought both sugar and oatmeal cookies with fat in peanut butter is unsaturated, the saturated/unsaturated fat ratio back to the ideal great success. So I figured all I had to though, so replacing 1/2 cup of highly 30/70 split but also decreased the ratio of total fat to do was bend the traditional peanut saturated butter with an additional other ingredients, yielding a supremely chewy cookie. butter cookie formula to fit the chewi- 1/2 cup of peanut butter would not ness template and I’d be done. only boost peanut flavor but also Chock-Full of Nuts The typical peanut butter cookie lower the saturated fat to a more The chewy cookie lover in me was completely satis- recipe I used as a starting point called Get the Scoop favorable 35 percent. fied. The peanut butter fanatic was not, though for 1 cup each of butter (melted to A #30 portion scoop, which But by the time I had a cohesive I wasn’t about to touch my carefully calibrated dough make mixing easier) and peanut but- holds about 2 tablespoons, dough, I could tell that this formula formula to pack in more peanut flavor. Instead, ter and 2 cups of flour. After whisking makes it easy to divvy up wasn’t going to work. The mixture I went straight to the source and added 1/2 cup of the butter and peanut butter together our dough into precise, tidy was so stiff I was practically kneading finely chopped dry-roasted peanuts to the dough

along with granulated sugar, eggs, scoops that bake up identical. it, and the cookies themselves hardly after mixing in the dry ingredients. Their richness and TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 104 SCIENCE A History of the How Fat Crosshatch Affects The practice of creating a crosshatch Chewiness pattern on peanut butter cookies with Producing a cookie or the tines of a fork appears to have brownie with a chewy begun with a recipe published in the texture depends on a July 1, 1932 edition of the Schenectady number of factors, and fat Gazette, which instructed bakers to is a very important one. “press [dough] down with a fork, first We’ve found that when one way, then the other, so they look like squares on waffles.” combined in a ratio of A year later, Balanced Recipes, a cookbook published by Pillsbury Flour Mills, 30 percent saturated to also called for flattening the cookies with a fork—but in only one direction. 70 percent unsaturated In 1938, when The Settlement Cookbook specified a crosshatch for its peanut butter fat in a dough or batter, cookies, as the Gazette had, the method took off. it can aid in creating a But why a crosshatch in the first place? Since peanut butter cookie dough is generally dense and doesn’t chewy texture. spread well, the cookies need to be flattened in order to bake evenly, and a fork is the perfect tool for the job. Because the dough for our Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies is softer and spreads more than traditional MORE BENDABLE peanut butter cookie dough, we don’t need a crosshatch. (And don’t be tempted to add one for decorative THAN BREAKABLE purposes; the dough’s softness also means that it won’t hold a sharply defined pattern.)

crunch added the depth I was looking for without after portioning it on the baking sheet. (For more the flour, sugar, and peanut butter. You can substi- affecting the fat ratio or interfering with the texture information, see “A History of the Crosshatch.”) tute light brown sugar for dark, but your cookies of the dough, but they left the cookies tasting a bit Now that I have an easy, truly satisfying peanut will be lighter in color. savory. Substituting dark brown sugar for white sugar butter cookie recipe at the ready, I should probably and adding 2 tablespoons of honey tilted things back add another jar or two of peanut butter to my stash. 11/2 cups (71/2 ounces) all-purpose flour in a sweet direction and had the added benefit of Just in case. 1 teaspoon baking soda enhancing the chewiness a little more. 1/2 teaspoon table salt One final tweak: With the chopped peanuts CHEWY PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES 11/2 cups packed (101/2 ounces) dark brown sugar clearly advertising the cookies’ identity, I decided MAKES 24 COOKIES 1 cup (9 ounces) creamy peanut butter to abandon the crosshatch. While it’s up for debate TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES, PLUS 30 MINUTES COOLING 2 large eggs why peanut butter cookies traditionally bear this 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and mark, I’ve always suspected that it’s because the stiff To ensure that the cookies have the proper texture, cooled dough needs to be firmly pressed down for the cook- use a traditional creamy peanut butter in this recipe; 2 tablespoons honey ies to spread properly. But because my dough was do not substitute crunchy or natural peanut but- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract softer than the typical peanut butter cookie dough, ter. We developed this recipe with Skippy Creamy 1/2 cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped fine it spread nicely if I simply pressed it with my fingers Peanut Butter. For the best results, be sure to weigh 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line two 18 by 13‑inch rimmed The Best Proportions for TRADITIONAL PROPORTIONS The usual proportions in peanut butter 2 CUPS baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, Perfect Peanut Butter cookie dough result in cookies with a tender baking soda, and salt together in medium bowl. Cookies and short texture and little peanut flavor. 2. In large bowl, whisk sugar, peanut butter, eggs, All baking recipes rely on precise ingredient melted butter, honey, and vanilla until smooth. Add ratios, but peanut butter cookies are espe- 1 CUP 1 CUP flour mixture and stir with rubber spatula until soft, cially sensitive to changes in the proportion homogeneous dough forms. Stir in peanuts until of the namesake ingredient. That’s because evenly distributed. peanut butter contains both fat and protein 3. Working with 2 tablespoons dough at a time (plus starch), and altering the amounts of (or using #30 portion scoop), roll dough into balls those components can dramatically affect and evenly space on prepared sheets (12 dough balls BUTTER PEANUT BUTTER FLOUR both flavor and texture. Case in point: per sheet). Using your fingers, gently flatten dough Changing the ratios of peanut butter to but- OUR PROPORTIONS balls until 2 inches in diameter. ter and flour made the difference between Less butter and flour in relation to the peanut 4. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until edges are cookies that were barely nutty and ones that butter makes our cookies taste nuttier and 11/2 CUPS just set and just beginning to brown, 10 to 12 min- had robust nuttiness and also the difference more chewy. (Chopped peanuts added utes, rotating sheet after 6 minutes. Let cookies cool to the dough also between cookies that were doughy and dry on sheet for 5 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, boost flavor.) 1 CUP and ones that were so structureless they transfer cookies to wire rack and let cool completely crumbled to a sticky paste. Here’s how we before serving. arrived at the ideal proportions for nutty, 1/4 CUP chewy cookies. (See “How Fat Affects STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND Chewiness” to learn why the right ratio of NUTRITION INFORMATION different types of fat also matters.) BUTTER PEANUT BUTTER FLOUR CooksIllustrated.com/JUN19 IMAGE (TOP RIGHT): COURTESY THE DAILY GAZETTE CO. DAILY THE COURTESY RIGHT): (TOP IMAGE

2019 annual 105 The World’s Cutest Cookie These Lilliputian Italian hazelnut-chocolate sandwich cookies are utterly charming— but only if they’re perfect. Our approach makes it easy to get them just right.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

f I had a dollar for every time someone came up to my workstation in the test kitchen and proclaimed, “Those cookies are so cute!” I could retire. But endearing as they are, baci diI dama are also fussy, and a few batches into my recipe development, I wanted to retire. Hailing from the Piedmont region of Italy, are sandwich cookies that consist of two tiny hazelnut buttons held together by a slim choco- late filling. (Their name translates as “lady’s kisses” because each sandwich is said to resemble a woman’s pursed lips.) Sandwich cookies are laborious to make by nature, but these are made from a short, fragile dough that must be chilled for at least an hour lest it soften too much to be workable. And because the cookies are bite-size, the portioning step is a real bear: A single batch makes dozens of cookies, each of which must be measured (often weighed) precisely so that all the sandwich halves match up perfectly. Once the cookies have been baked and cooled, half of them are overturned and dolloped with melted chocolate (or sometimes Nutella or ganache), gently topped with the remaining cookies so that the filling spreads just to the edges, and left to sit briefly so that the chocolate sets. All this I learned after being lured in by not just their visual charm but their flavor and consistency, too. A recipe from Italian cookbook author Domenica Marchetti was the best and simplest I’d made, and it We let the melted chocolate cool briefly before filling the cookies so it will thicken and won’t run over the sides. yielded cookies that were rich with nuts and butter and that carefully balanced ample structure with the tender- sugar) than most classic Piedmontese recipes, and There was one more subtle but tedious task ness of great shortbread. The results looked and tasted when I reduced the butter and sugar a bit further I streamlined before moving on to the portioning so good (even days later, which made them great to while also cutting back on the nuts, I ended up with project: rubbing every bit of papery skin from the give as gifts or take to a party) that I picked apart the a dough that still boasted plenty of richness and nutty toasted hazelnuts. Since I was grinding the nuts process to see where it could be made faster and easier. flavor but was firm enough that I could get away with just a quick stint in the freezer Timesaving Tricks before portioning it. Marchetti’s food-processor method for making the dough is easier than most classic recipes, which call for mixing the ingredients by hand. All you do Sandwich Assembly Line is grind hazelnuts (toasted and skinned), butter, Following the three steps outlined below flour, sugar, and salt until the nuts are broken down will make quick work of spooning on the and a dough comes together. It’s the subsequent chocolate filling and assembling the sand- portioning and chilling steps that really drag out the wich cookies. process, so I took a hard look at the ingredient list to see how I could make a firmer dough that would INVERT every other row of cookies. require less chilling. SPOON melted chocolate onto the The high ratio of fat to flour is what makes a short centers of the inverted cookies. dough such as this one soft and fragile, so I tried making a leaner version. Marchetti’s formula already TOP with the remaining cookies.

called for slightly less butter (and considerably less TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 106 very fine, I wondered if it was necessary to be quite to cool and thicken a bit before spooning it onto DUE PROCESS FOR HAZELNUTS so thorough—or necessary to skin them at all—so the overturned cookies so that it wouldn’t run Hazelnuts make up a substantial portion of baci I baked batches of cookies made with skinned, off the sides. Letting the sandwiches sit for about di dama dough, so it’s important to skin and grind partially skinned (rubbed briefly after toasting), and 15 minutes before serving allowed the chocolate to them properly. skin-on hazelnuts. The surprising news: Not only cool and set. was it easier to partially skin the nuts, but leaving My no-fuss approach to skinning the nuts, mixing some of the papery bits attached resulted in a slightly the dough in a food processor, and making a portion drier yet more flavorful and resilient dough with grid added up to a really approachable recipe. As for attractive dark flecks. (Forgoing skinning altogether the cookies themselves, they were rich and complexly made the dough too dry and a tad savory, thanks to nutty, with a dark, bittersweet snap—and so cute. the tannins in the skins.) BACI DI DAMA (ITALIAN HAZELNUT COOKIES) Perfect Portions MAKES 32 SANDWICH COOKIES Precisely portioning the dough is the most important TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR COOLING step when making any sandwich cookie, and it’s even more crucial here because the cookies’ button‑like Toast the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a charm relies on having two perfect halves. But 325-degree oven until fragrant, 13 to 15 minutes, scooping and weighing dozens of tiny dough pieces shaking the sheet halfway through toasting. To skin felt tedious, so I tried alternative methods, such as them, gather the warm hazelnuts in a dish towel and a “gnocchi” approach where you roll the dough rub to remove some of the skins. A square-cornered into ropes and cut each rope into equal portions. metal baking pan works best for shaping the dough. It worked well enough but wasn’t as efficient as If using a baking dish with rounded corners, be sure DO leave a little skin on the toasted nuts. The the method we used to portion Chocolate Truffles to square the corners of the dough before portion- dry, papery bits make the dough a bit drier and (January/February 2012): Press the dough into ing. We prefer Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet more resilient; they also add complex flavor and a parchment paper–lined baking pan; freeze it for Chocolate Premium Baking Bar for this recipe. attractive dark flecks. It’s also easier to leave 10 minutes to firm it up; turn out the frozen block some skin attached. onto the counter; and cut a “portion grid” by halv- 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and ing the dough lengthwise, halving those halves partially skinned DON’T underprocess the nuts when making lengthwise, cutting the rows in half again, rotating 2/3 cup (3⅓ ounces) all-purpose flour the dough. Anything short of a very fine grind will the dough 90 degrees, and making equally spaced ⅓ cup (2⅓ ounces) sugar result in a crumbly dough that can’t be rolled into perpendicular cuts. It took just minutes to make equal ⅛ teaspoon table salt neat balls for baking. portions that I rolled into balls and baked (see “The 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch Fastest Way to Portion 64 Cookies”). pieces and chilled While the cookies cooled, I mapped out the 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2. Transfer dough to counter, knead briefly to most efficient way to assemble the sandwiches (see form smooth ball, place in prepared pan, and press “Sandwich Assembly Line”) and melted a couple of 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and into even layer that covers bottom of pan. Freeze for ounces of bittersweet chocolate in the microwave heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 rimmed bak- 10 minutes. Run knife or bench scraper between dough for the filling. (Neither ganache nor Nutella firmed ing sheets with parchment paper. Line bottom of and edge of pan to loosen. Turn out dough onto coun- up enough to lock the cookies together.) Piping the 8-inch square baking pan with parchment. Process ter and discard parchment. Cut dough into 64 squares chocolate from a zipper-lock bag with the corner hazelnuts, flour, sugar, and salt in food processor (8 rows by 8 rows). Roll dough squares into balls and snipped off didn’t work since the heat of my hands until hazelnuts are very finely ground, 20 to 25 sec- evenly space 32 dough balls on each prepared sheet. made the chocolate too runny. But I did find a trick onds. Add butter and pulse until dough just comes Bake, 1 sheet at a time, until cookies look dry and are for portioning the melted chocolate. I allowed it together, 20 to 25 pulses. fragrant (cookies will settle but not spread), about 20 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let cookies cool com- The Fastest Way to Portion 64 Cookies pletely, about 30 minutes. Rather than scooping and weighing dozens of tiny dough portions, we cut a “portion grid” into the dough that 3. Microwave chocolate in small bowl at 50 percent delivers even-size pieces in a fraction of the time. power, stirring every 20 seconds, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Let chocolate cool at room temperature until it is slightly thickened and registers 80 degrees, 1 1 about 10 minutes. Invert half of cookies on each sheet. Using 1/4-teaspoon measure, spoon chocolate onto flat surfaces of all inverted cookies. Top with remaining 2 3 2 3 cookies, pressing lightly to adhere. Let chocolate set for at least 15 minutes before serving. (Cookies can be stored in airtight container at room temperature 4 5 6 7 4 5 6 7 for up to 10 days.)

STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND 1. Cut square of dough in half 2. Cut 4 rows in half lengthwise 3. Rotate square 90 degrees NUTRITION INFORMATION lengthwise. Cut each half in half for total of 7 cuts to create 8 rows. and repeat cutting, making CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN JAY ILLUSTRATION: lengthwise to create 4 rows. 7 perpendicular cuts.

2019 annual 107 Classic Bubbly Cocktails Whether you want to splurge or save, here’s how to make cocktails that sparkle.

j BY LAN LAM WITH LAWMAN JOHNSON k

parkling wine cocktails are one of the Cointreau to make mimosas and compared them to easiest ways to make a party feel festive. a batch made with $45 champagne, all tasters could They’re celebratory, they come together tell the difference, but most found the cheaper bottle in a flash, and they don’t require a stocked entirely acceptable since the juice and liqueur hid liquorS cabinet, fancy barware, or even much mix- the nuances of the wine. Prosecco is the traditional ing. And in many cases, you can put together a choice for Bellinis, which are sweetened with peach top-notch version on the cheap. Here we cover juice and peach schnapps, and we wouldn’t hesitate the sparkling wine basics, share how to mix three to use an inexpensive bottle to mix that drink either. classic cocktails (champagne cocktails, Bellinis, and mimosas), and provide helpful tips that apply to Tips for Gauging Flavor any bubbly cocktail. It’s helpful to consult with a well-informed shop- keeper when selecting a sparkling wine, but to make The Big Three: Champagne, Prosecco, your own educated guess, keep in mind that one of and Cava the biggest determining factors in the flavor profile Champagne, of course, is the gold standard of spar- is the grape varietal. Generally speaking, due to the kling wine. It must be made in Champagne, France, grapes used to make each wine, champagne is only using specific grapes and the region’s traditional pro- slightly fruity, cava is a little fruitier, and prosecco duction method. But even the least expensive bottle is fruitier still. To select a quality sparkling wine of champagne costs about $40. Great alternatives similar to champagne, look for the term “traditional include prosecco ($8 to $30) and cava ($18 to $30), method” or “crémant.” Both indicate that the wine the second- and third-most-produced sparkling wines, was made in the same manner as champagne, so its respectively. Prosecco is made with an Italian grape flavor (and effervescence) will be comparable. using a different method that makes it less carbonated. It tends to have more residual sugar and a slightly The Importance of Temperature lower acidity. Cava, a Spanish sparkler, is produced Whether you spring for champagne or opt for some- with grapes indigenous to Spain using the same thing more economical, sparkling wine is best served method used to produce champagne. It features simi- at about 40 degrees. Cold suppresses sweetness, lar levels of carbonation, acidity, and residual sugar. so wine will taste sweeter at warmer temperatures. Higher temperatures also make the wine lose its When to Splurge on Champagne carbonation more quickly. This makes it initially Champagne is essential in a champagne cocktail—and fizzier and more aromatic, but the trade-off is that it not just to make it true to its name. Made by pouring becomes flat and loses its aroma faster. Wine poured the wine over a sugar cube drenched in Angostura into an unchilled flute shot from 38 to 48 degrees. bitters and garnished with a twist But in a chilled flute, it rose to only 43 degrees. Be An $8 bottle of lemon zest, this cocktail evolves Two simple elements—a twist of lemon and an sure to chill the mixers, too. is perfectly from the first sip to the last—and Angostura bitters–soaked sugar cube—turn acceptable the flavors of the champagne are champagne into the most elegant of cocktails. Pre-Party Prep for mimosas primary until the very end. First, Sparkling wine should be opened just before mixing and Bellinis. bursting bubbles aromatize lemon When a Budget Bubbly Will Do cocktails. But that doesn’t mean you can’t premix oils from the twist to make the In virtually all other sparkling wine cocktails, it’s fine liqueurs and juices. Just be sure to keep the mixers initial sip bright and citrusy. Then the champagne’s to substitute a less expensive sparkling wine. When chilled in a vessel such as a small pitcher. As guests flavors and aromas more fully take over, with whispers we poured an $8 prosecco into orange juice and arrive, simply pour the mixer into a flute glass, add of the orange-and-spice-scented Angostura. Only in the final sips, when the sugar cube has fully dissolved to create a bitters-infused syrup at the bottom of the How Sweet Is It? glass, does the Angostura supersede the champagne. These terms will give you an idea of the sweetness level of champagne (you’ll find them on some prosecco For the best experience, this cocktail’s namesake and cava labels as well), but keep in mind that acidity (both from the grapes and from carbonation) also ingredient is a must. affects how sweet a wine tastes. (Wines with higher acidity will taste less sweet.) Make a note of the terms before you shop since they can be confusing: Sparkling wines labeled “dry” contain a fair amount of sugar, as do “demi-sec” wines, even though sec means “dry” in French. STEP-BY-STEP VIDEO AND NUTRITION INFORMATION BRUT NATURE EXTRA BRUT BRUT EXTRA DRY DRY DEMI-SEC DOUX CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 DRIEST SWEETEST PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 108 MIMOSA BELLINI Uncorking: Easy as 1, 2, 3 MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES

Use strained fresh-squeezed orange juice here for the Either peach juice or nectar works well here. Tilt the best flavor. We like Cointreau, but any orange liqueur glass to a 45-degree angle and pour the wine down will work here. Tilt the glass to a 45-degree angle and the side of the glass to minimize foaming. –L.J. pour the wine down the side of the glass to minimize foaming. –L.J. 21/2 fluid ounces (1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon) 21/2 fluid ounces (1/4 cup peach juice or nectar, plus 1 tablespoon) chilled orange juice, strained 1/4 fluid ounce (11/2 tea- 1. Remove the foil and loosen the cage, keeping and chilled spoons) peach schnapps your hand on the cork at all times. 1/4 fluid ounce (11/2 tea- 3 fluid ounces (1/4 cup 2. Tilt the bottle to a 45-degree angle, pointing spoons) orange liqueur plus 2 tablespoons) it away from people, pets, and fragile objects. 3 fluid ounces (1/4 cup sparkling wine, chilled 3. Grip the cage and cork and twist the bottle plus 2 tablespoons) 1 thin slice peach until the cork comes free. Continue to hold the sparkling wine, chilled (optional) bottle at an angle until the foaming subsides; this 1 orange twist increases the surface area of the wine, allowing Add peach juice and gases to escape without the wine foaming over. Add orange juice and peach schnapps to chilled orange liqueur to chilled champagne flute; stir with champagne flute; stir with spoon to combine. Add the sparkling wine, and garnish. For the Champagne spoon to combine. Add wine. wine. Using spoon, gently Look for bottled Cocktail, you can presoak sugar cubes up to 2 hours Using spoon, gently lift juice Fresh-squeezed lift juice mixture from peach juice or in advance or make our DIY Bitters Sugar Cubes. mixture from bottom to top orange juice is bottom to top of glass to peach nectar. Both of glass to combine. Garnish imperative for the combine. Garnish with peach will give the Bellini best-tasting mimosa. a deep fruity taste. CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL with orange twist. Serve. slice, if using. Serve. MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES

YIELD PER BOTTLE We strongly prefer champagne here, but you can use Master Mixologist Moves 750-mL 5 GLASSES another quality sparkling wine as long as it’s brut or Paying attention to small details will bring your sparkling cocktails to the next level. Bottle 8 COCKTAILS extra brut. Tilt the glass to a 45-degree angle and pour the wine down the side of the glass to minimize TILT THE GLASS DON’T STIR—LIFT DO THE TWIST foaming. Use a channel knife to make the lemon twist. Pour the way you would a Mix sparkling cocktails that include liqueurs For cocktails garnished We like to use a champagne saver to store leftover beer: down the side of a glass and juice using a lifting motion with a spoon. with a citrus twist, be champagne. –L.L. that’s tilted to a 45-degree Stirring isn’t particularly effective at moving sure to drop the twist angle. This shortens the denser liquids up toward the top of the into the drink before 1 sugar cube distance the wine falls so glass. A lifting motion is much more efficient, sipping. The zest con- 1/4 teaspoon Angostura bitters there is less turbulence and and the less you agitate the drink, the more tributes bright notes that 51/2 fluid ounces (1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons) therefore less foaming. carbonation you preserve. enliven the cocktail. champagne, chilled 1 lemon twist

Place sugar cube in small bowl. Add bitters to SCIENCE The Physics of Fizz sugar cube. Transfer soaked sugar cube to chilled Carbonation doesn’t just give sparkling wine a pretty appearance and create a champagne flute. Add champagne and garnish with sharp bite on your tongue. The bubbles convey aromatic compounds to the sur- lemon twist. Serve. face of the wine and deliver fragrance to your nose when they burst. But how do the bubbles form in the first place? They start with dissolved carbon dioxide that stays in the pres- DIY BITTERS SUGAR CUBES surized wine until the bottle is opened. For a bubble to form, the MAKES 64 CUBES TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 24 HOURS DRYING carbon dioxide needs a trigger, or an interruption in the otherwise homogeneous liquid, called a nucleation site: a microscopic gas You can use any type of bitters you like here. –L.L. pocket that’s already in the glass, on a fleck of dust, a cloth fiber left behind when you wiped the glass clean, or a scratch or etching 3/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons bitters in the glass (or, in a champagne cocktail, a sugar cube). Stir sugar and bitters in bowl until well combined. Transfer mixture The gas pocket is all that’s needed to incite some carbon diox- to large piece of parchment paper and press into 4-inch square. Use ide to come out of the wine, forming a bubble. The bubble grows chef ’s knife to cut sugar square into ½-inch cubes, being careful not as it rises through the liquid and carbon dioxide enters the bubble. to cut parchment. Transfer sugar square to rimmed baking sheet and This process repeats itself over and over, creating a trail of effer- let sit uncovered in cool, dry place for 24 hours. Sugar cubes can be vescence from the nucleation site up to the surface of the wine. stored in airtight container for up to 48 hours.

2019 annual 109 DIY RECIPES

Lime Pickle Pickled Watermelon Rind Lime pickle is a pungent, salty, savory, and After cutting up watermelon, don’t throw away that rind—pickle it instead. spicy condiment served alongside most Pickled watermelon rind is a classic Southern treat that’s traditionally made with Indian meals (it’s often on the table in Indian a sweet brine; our version calls for less sugar and more vinegar and includes cin- restaurants). It’s made by treating lime pieces namon and cloves. First, we soaked the rind in a saltwater solution for 3 hours to with salt and letting them ferment at room season it. Next, we simmered it in fresh water to soften it. Finally, we simmered temperature until the pith has tenderized and the rind in a flavorful pickling brine until it just began to turn translucent before the flesh is soft. We found that this process transferring it to jars and letting it cool for storage. –Nicole Konstantinakos worked most efficiently if the spices and oil were held back until the limes were fully soft- PICKLED WATERMELON RIND ened. Our recipe uses a moderate amount MAKES TWO 1-PINT JARS of salt, a balanced blend of spices, and a TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES, PLUS 24 HOURS COOLING touch of sugar to round out the lime pickle’s flavor. –Andrew Janjigian We developed this recipe using Diamond Crystal kosher salt; if you use Morton kosher salt, reduce the amount to 3 tablespoons. LIME PICKLE SERVES 16 (MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS) 1/4 cup kosher salt TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES, PLUS 2 WEEKS SALTING 1 (6- to 7-pound) watermelon, peeled and quartered, rind removed from flesh, scraped clean, and cut into 1-inch pieces (6 cups) The pickle will be ready to eat after the spices are added, but its flavors will 1 large cinnamon stick, broken in half continue to meld in the refrigerator over time. This recipe can be easily dou- 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves bled or tripled. Use organic limes here if you can find them. 11/2 cups distilled white vinegar 11/2 cups sugar 10 ounces limes (about 4), 1 teaspoon brown or yellow unpeeled, scrubbed, and dried mustard seeds 1. Dissolve salt in 1 quart water in bowl. Add rind and refrigerate for 3 tablespoons table salt 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 3 hours; drain and rinse rind. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 teaspoon ground over high heat, add rind, and cook until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes; drain. 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes fenugreek 2. Bundle cinnamon stick and cloves in cheesecloth and secure with kitchen 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon sugar twine. Bring spice sachet, vinegar, sugar, and 1 cup water to boil in now-empty saucepan over medium-high heat. Cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 1. Halve limes lengthwise. Cut each half lengthwise into quarters. 15 minutes; discard sachet. Return brine to simmer, add rind, and simmer until Cut each quarter crosswise into 3/8-inch-wide pieces. Toss with salt in bowl, rind begins to turn translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. While rind is simmering, place transfer to airtight container, and cover. Let sit at room temperature, stirring two 1-pint jars in bowl and place under hot running water until heated through, every few days, until pith is tender, 2 to 3 weeks. 1 to 2 minutes; shake dry. 2. Stir oil, pepper flakes, paprika, mustard seeds, turmeric, and fenugreek 3. Using slotted spoon, pack rind into warm jars. Using ladle, add hot brine together in large bowl. Microwave until fragrant, 30 to 90 seconds. Add limes to cover rind, leaving 1 inch headspace. Let jars cool completely, cover with and sugar and stir to combine. Transfer pickles and liquid to 1-pint jar, cover, lids, and refrigerate for 24 hours before serving. (Pickled watermelon rind can and refrigerate. (Lime pickle can be refrigerated for up to 6 months.) be refrigerated for up to 3 months; texture will continue to soften over time.)

Cajeta CAJETA 1. Bring milk, sugar, vanilla, salt, and cinnamon Cajeta is the more complex cousin of Mexico’s dulce de SERVES 24 (MAKES 3 CUPS) TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS stick, if using, to boil in Dutch oven over medium-high leche. Whereas dulce de leche is made with cow’s milk heat, stirring occasionally with rubber spatula. (easier versions use sweetened condensed milk), cajeta This sauce is suitable for spooning over ice cream or 2. Off heat, stir in baking soda mixture. When is made by simmering goat’s milk and sugar until the stirring into coffee. For a thick, spreadable confection, foaming subsides, return milk mixture to boil. Reduce mixture browns, undergoes the Maillard reaction, and continue to cook the cajeta, stirring constantly to pre- heat to medium-low and simmer rapidly, adjusting turns luxuriously thick and smooth. In both confections, vent scorching, until it’s reduced to 2 cups. heat as necessary to maintain rapid simmer and stirring the transformation is aided by a small amount of baking occasionally to prevent scorching, until mixture is pale soda, which increases the pH of the milk, encouraging 8 cups goat’s milk golden brown, 45 minutes to 1 hour. browning of the dairy proteins and the formation of 2 cups (14 ounces) sugar 3. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until hundreds of new nutty, toasty flavors. In cajeta, the 2 teaspoons vanilla extract cajeta is caramel-colored and heavily coats back goat’s milk has a tanginess derived from its fatty acids 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt of spoon, about 30 minutes longer. Discard cinna- that provides an appealing counterpoint to the confec- 1 cinnamon stick (optional) mon stick, if using. If desired, strain cajeta through tion’s sweetness and helps distinguish it from the more 3/4 teaspoon baking soda, dissolved in fine‑mesh strainer. (Cajeta can be refrigerated in air- simply flavored dulce de leche. –John Willoughby 1 tablespoon water tight container for up to 2 months.) PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY CARL PHOTOGRAPHY:

cook’s illustrated 110 Nut Butters Crema di Limoncello Making nut butters at home couldn’t be simpler—just grind the nuts to a paste The Italian digestif crema di limoncello in a food processor. Plus, you can customize the nut butters to your taste and combines custardy richness with the make varieties that aren’t readily available in stores. punch of alcohol and the intensely floral Be aware that hard, dense nuts such as almonds can take as long as 20 minutes aroma of lemon zest. Traditionally, the to process to a smooth paste—but don’t worry, it will happen eventually. We drink is made by steeping strips of lemon found that toasting the nuts before grinding them not only boosts their flavor but zest in a neutral spirit ​such as vodka ​for also warms their oils, allowing for faster breakdown during processing. (We also a month or more to extract​ their flavor warm preroasted nuts for this reason.) Certain nuts require thinning with oil or and aroma​; the infused alcohol is then swirled with dairy, vanilla, and sugar. To thickening with water to create a spreadable consistency. –Steve Dunn speed the ​infusion pr​ ocess without compromising flavor, we​pr ocessed zest and vodka together in a blender, which served to mechanically ​release the zest’s ​ HOMEMADE NUT BUTTER flavor compounds​ ​as well as to create more surface area ​from which the alcohol SERVES 16 could extract flavor more quickly. After just one week,​th e processed zest infused TOTAL TIME: 30 TO 40 MINUTES, PLUS 10 MINUTES COOLING the vodka with as much flavor​​as vodka steeped​ for a month with strips of zest. ​​ While many recipes call for cream to make t​he drink​, we ​preferred half-and-half We do not recommend using walnuts in this recipe, as their skins impart a thinned with a bit of water, which gave our drink​ a​ luxurious ​consistency ​but also bitter flavor to the butter. You can use blanched, skin‑on, raw, or preroasted kept it light and refreshing. –Steve Dunn nuts here, but do not use salted nuts. The weight of 4 cups of nuts may vary depending on the type of nuts you use. You can customize your nut butter in CREMA DI LIMONCELLO one of two ways: by using a blend of nuts or by adding 1/4 to1 teaspoon of SERVES 20 (MAKES 5 CUPS) ground cinnamon, nutmeg, or ginger or 1/8 teaspoon of cayenne pepper to the TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS 1 WEEK RESTING nuts before processing in step 2. This recipe can be easily doubled. 4 cups (11/4 pounds) whole unsalted nuts 1 teaspoon honey, plus extra for seasoning 5 lemons, scrubbed and dried 21/2 cups half-and-half 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (375-ml) bottle 80-proof 2 cups sugar vodka 1/2 cup water 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. 1/2 vanilla bean Spread nuts in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and roast until fragrant and slightly darkened, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through roasting. (If 1. Use vegetable peeler to remove only yellow zest from lemons. Place using preroasted nuts, place in oven for 5 minutes to warm.) Transfer sheet to lemon zest and vodka in blender and process until lemon zest is reduced to wire rack and let nuts cool slightly, about 10 minutes. fine particles, 15 to 30 seconds. Transfer mixture to airtight container and 2. Process nuts in food processor until oil is released and paste begins to store in cool, dark place for 1 week. form, scraping down sides of bowl often. Add honey and salt and continue 2. Cut vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Using tip of paring knife, scrape to process to desired smoothness, 2 to 20 minutes longer, depending on nut out seeds. Combine vanilla bean and seeds, half-and-half, sugar, and water in variety. Season with extra honey and salt to taste. If butter is thicker than medium saucepan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Simmer, stirring fre- desired, thin by adding vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon at a time, pulsing 3 times quently, until sugar is completely dissolved. Set aside and let cool completely. after each addition, until desired consistency is reached. If butter is thinner 3. Pour vanilla mixture through cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh strainer set than desired, thicken by adding water, 1 teaspoon at a time, pulsing 3 times over medium bowl. Pour lemon zest mixture through strainer and press on after each addition, until desired consistency is reached. Transfer to jar with solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Whisk to combine. tight‑fitting lid. (Butter can be stored at room temperature or refrigerated for Transfer to bottle and refrigerate until cold. Serve in chilled glasses. (Crema di up to 2 months.) limoncello can be refrigerated for up to 1 year.)

Refrigerator Jam 2 pounds (61/2 cups) raspberries finger through jam on Store-bought raspberry jam can be a disappoint- 3 cups sugar plate; jam has correct ment, tasting more like gummy candy than like fruit. 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and shredded consistency when your For a raspberry jam bursting with bright, fresh fruit (1 cup) finger leaves distinct flavor, we added a grated Granny Smith apple to the 1 tablespoon lemon juice trail. If jam is runny, raspberries; the apple’s pectin also contributed body. return pot to heat and Lemon juice boosted the brightness while also adding 1. Place 2 small plates in freezer to chill. Wash and simmer 1 to 3 minutes acidity to help the pectin set. We boiled our jam for dry four 1-cup jars. longer before retesting. just 10 to 15 minutes to achieve the perfect consis- 2. Bring all ingredients to boil in Dutch oven over Skim any foam from sur- tency. –Leah Colins medium-high heat, stirring often. Once sugar is com- face of jam using spoon. pletely dissolved, boil mixture, stirring and adjusting 4. Place dish towel CLASSIC RASPBERRY JAM heat as needed, until thickened and mixture registers flat on counter. Place MAKES FOUR 1-CUP JARS 217 to 220 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove pot clean jars on towel. Portion jam into jars. TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS 13 HOURS COOLING from heat. 5. Let jam cool completely, then cover and refrig- 3. To test consistency, place 1 teaspoon jam on erate until jam is set, 12 to 24 hours. (Jam can be Shred the apple on the large holes of a box grater. chilled plate and freeze for 2 minutes. Drag your refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

2019 annual 111 INDEX Cook’s Illustrated 2019 Annual

BEEF AND PORK SEAFOOD APPETIZERS AND SNACKS SAUCES, ACCOMPANIMENTS, Classic Sloppy Joes 5 Cod and Potato Cakes 51 Crunchy Kettle Potato Chips 59 AND MORE Easy Grilled Steak Tacos (Tacos al Carbón) 9 Oven-Steamed Fish with Scallions and Garlic and Parmesan Cheese Coins 89 Buttermilk and Chive Topping 59 Green Chili with Pork (Chile Verde con Ginger 49 Indian-Spiced Roasted Chickpeas 55 Chive-Lemon Miso Butter 47 Cerdo) 13 Sautéed Tilapia 47 Barbecue-Spiced 55 Chorizo Oil and Garlicky Bread Crumbs 63 Korean Marinated Beef (Bulgogi) 7 Vietnamese Summer Rolls (Goỉ Cuon)̂́ 54 Mexican Shrimp Cocktail (Cóctel de Cilantro Chimichurri 47 Shaking Beef (Bò Lúc Lac)� 3 Camarón) 57 Classic Raspberry Jam 111 Spanish Grilled Pork Kebabs (Pinchos SIDE DISHES Whipped Feta Dip 56 Curtido 45 Morunos) 14 Braised Eggplant with Paprika, Coriander, and and Roasted Red Pepper 56 DIY Bitters Sugar Cubes 109 Spanish-Style Meatballs in Almond Sauce Yogurt 67 with Dill and Parsley 56 Extra-Virgin Olive Oil and Quick Pickled (Albóndigas en Salsa de Almendras) 11 Braised Eggplant with Soy, Garlic, and Celery 63 Spiral-Sliced Ham Glazed with Cider-Vinegar Ginger 67 SOUPS AND SALADS Garlic Confit 88 Caramel 15 Grilled Radicchio 17 Beet Salad with Goat Cheese and Arugula 64 Garlic Confit Butter 89 Tuscan Grilled Pork Ribs (Rosticciana) 17 Indian-Style Basmati Rice 27 Creamy White Bean Soup with Herb Oil and Homemade Nut Butter 111 Pan-Steamed Asparagus with Garlic 73 Crispy Capers 63 Lemony Yogurt and Crispy Leeks 63 POULTRY with Anchovies and Red Pepper Flakes 73 Green Bean Salad with Cherry Tomatoes and Lime Pickle 110 Braised Chicken with Mustard and Herbs 21 with Lemon and Parmesan 73 Feta 65 Pickled Watermelon Rind 110 with Basil and Tomato 21 with Mint and Almonds 73 Thai Hot and Sour Noodle Soup with Shrimp Quick Salsa 45 Chicken with 32 Cloves of Garlic 89 (Guay Tiew Tom Yum Goong) 61 with Shallots and Herbs 73 Quick Tartar Sauce 51 Easy Grill-Roasted Whole Chicken 25 Pan-Steamed Kale with Garlic 68 Salsa Roja 90 Indian Butter Chicken (Murgh Makhani) 27 BREAKFAST AND BREAD with Chorizo 68 Salt and Vinegar Topping 59 Japanese Fried Chicken Thighs (Karaage) 23 Challah 76 with Pancetta 68 Smoky Barbecue Topping 59 Skillet-Roasted Chicken Breasts with Garlicky Easiest-Ever Biscuits 81 with Raisins and Almonds 68 Spicy Middle Eastern Herb Sauce (Zhoug) 83 Green Beans 28 Eggs in Spicy Tomato and Roasted Red Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Mixed Thai Chili Jam (Nam Prik Pao) 61 with Harissa-Mint Carrots 28 Pepper Sauce (Shakshuka) 83 Herbs 69 Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (Nuóc Cham) 54 Whole Roast Ducks with Cherry Sauce 19 Everyday French Toast 85 ̛̛ ̂́ 69 with Parsley, Lemon, and Garlic Italian Flatbreads (Piadine) 79 PASTA, RICE, NOODLES, PIZZA, with Pecorino and Black Pepper 69 Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus, Smoked DRINKS AND MORE Sautéed Mushrooms with Red Wine and Salmon, and Chives 87 Bellini 109 Brown Rice Bowl with Vegetables and Rosemary 71 Scrambled Eggs with Pinto Beans and Cotija Champagne Cocktail 109 Salmon 39 with Mustard and Parsley 71 Cheese 87 Crema di Limoncello 111 Bulgur Bowl with Vegetables and Marinated with Soy, Scallion, and Ginger 71 Scrambled Eggs with Shiitake Mushrooms and Mimosa 109 Tofu 40 Spanish Potatoes with Olive Oil and Wine Feta Cheese 87 Watermelon-Lime Agua Fresca 9 Chilled Soba Noodles with Cucumber, Snow (Patatas Panaderas) 72 Peas, and Radishes 33 Swiss Chard and Kale Gratin 74 DESSERTS Pastitsio 37 Vietnamese Red Rice (Cơm ÐoSee)̉ 3 Apple Crumble 99 Pizza al Taglio with Arugula and Fresh Baci di Dama (Italian Hazelnut Cookies) 107 Mozzarella 43 Browned Butter Blondies 101 with Potatoes and Soppressata 43 Cajeta 110 with Prosciutto and Figs 43 Caramel-Espresso Yule Log 93 Pork, Fennel, and Lemon Ragu with Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies 105 Pappardelle 31 Chocolate Chip Cookie Ice Cream Pupusas 45 Sandwiches 103 Shrimp Risotto 29 Fresh Plum-Ginger Pie with Whole-Wheat Three-Cheese Ravioli with Browned Lattice-Top Crust 95 Butter–Pine Nut Sauce 34 Lemon–Olive Oil Tart 97 Southwestern Brown Rice Bowl with Meringue Bracket-Style Mushrooms 92 Vegetables and Chicken 40

CooksIllustrated.com Meze Start your 14-day FREE TRIAL MEMBERSHIP Snacking in the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East is a ritual as social as it is sustaining. Small, share- Go to CooksIllustrated.com/SubTrial today! able dishes—meze, mezze, or mazzeh, depending Your free trial membership to CooksIllustrated.com on the region—are savored with drinks and com- includes all these benefits and many more: pany. Most spreads contain cheese: dry, salty STRING • Access to all 26 years of Cook’s • Members-only Facebook group CHEESE threads; crumbly bricks of sheep’s milk FETA CHEESE; or gooier varieties baked Illustrated recipes • Videos for recipes, techniques, into the savory pie called BOREK. Cured meats might include ruby swaths of spiced beef • 3,800+ up-to-date equipment and more BASTURMA, which delivers chew just shy of jerky, and , a deeply spiced sau- ratings and supermarket ingredient sage made from lamb and/or beef that renders deep red fat. Fruity, dense OLIVES and taste tests Join more than 400,000 members who PICKLED TURNIPS balance richness; the latter get their magenta blush from a slice of • Recipe comments from home cooks rely on CooksIllustrated.com as their red beet in the brine. Bulgur-based dumplings called KIBBEH (or kofte) can be made with • Nutritional information for recipes daily source for recipes that work. vegetables or meat and baked, steamed, stuffed, or fried. Likewise, log-likeSTUFFED • Save Favorites and print GRAPE LEAVES ( or dolmadakia) might be filled with herbed, aromatic rice alone or shopping lists a rice-meat mixture. Earthy, rich gets a tangy lift from lemon; more regal presen- tations rim the dip with spices and sesame seeds and lavish the surface with good olive oil.

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE Mexican Shrimp Cocktail Easiest-Ever Biscuits, 81 Beet Salad with Goat Cheese and Arugula, 64 Lemon–Olive Oil Tart, 97 (Cóctel de Camarón), 57

We Would Love to Hear from You!

FREE What did you think of Cook’s RECIPES Illustrated 2019 Annual? Please fill out our survey online to receive a free download of one of our digital issues. Visit bit.ly/ci-2019 to tell us what you think! Cod and Potato Cakes, 51 Japanese Fried Chicken Thighs (Karaage), 23

Did You Know? You can find more of our special issues online at shop.Americas TestKitchen.com/ special-issues

Shaking Beef (Bò Lúc Lac),� 3 Easy Grilled Steak Tacos (Tacos al Carbón), 9

Pork, Fennel, and Lemon Ragu Classic Sloppy Joes, 5 Indian-Spiced Roasted Chickpeas, 55 Chocolate Chip Cookie Ice with Pappardelle, 31 Cream Sandwiches, 103

PHOTOGRAPHY: KELLER + KELLER, STEVE KLISE, CARL TREMBLAY, DANIEL J. VAN ACKERE; STYLING: CATRINE KELTY, KENDRA McKNIGHT, MARIE PIRAINO, ELLE SIMONE SCOTT, SALLY STAUB