QUARTAMIN AB, QUARTAMIN ABK, and QUARTAMIN BTC-131: Key Ingredients for Hair Conditioning

QUARTAMINÒ AB, QUARTAMINÒ ABK, and QUARTAMINÒ BTC-131: Key Ingredients for Hair Conditioning

By B. Nogués, M. Mundó, N. Siscart, and P. Castán, KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE (Spain)

Summary In this article, three cationic products based on The ability of this kind of compounds to provide Behenyl alkyl chain are introduced. These prod- conditioning properties to hair is due both to the ucts are available under the trade names QUAR- hydrophobic nature of the alkyl rest as well as to TAMINÒ AB, QUARTAMINÒ ABK and QUAR- the cationic charge of the polar head group. TAMINÒ BTC-131. One of the important features associated to Different conditioning properties, comparing the quats is their high efficiency in the deposition on 3 QuartaminÒ AB (Behentrimonium Chloride) versus the hair ; that can be explained in terms of the QuartaminÒ 60W25 (Cetrimonium Chloride) and electrostatic interaction between the strong posi- SDMA (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine): comb- tive charge of the molecule and the negatively ing forces, antistaticity, and smoothing ability are charged hair surface. In addition to these electro- reviewed. static forces, there are also interactions between QuartaminÒ ABK (Behentrimonium Chloride the fatty alkyl chain and the hair’s protein struc- and Cetearyl Alcohol) is presented as an alterna- tures, which also help these compounds to remain tive to QuartaminÒ AB with the following advan- on the hair surface throughout the rinsing process. tages: non-flammable, easy handling and better On the other hand, once the cationic surfac- emulsifying properties. tants are deposited on the hair surface they pro- Finally, another chemical structure, also based vide a sort of benefits that are related to the fatty on Behenyl chain is introduced. This is Behenoyl moiety of the molecule. They smooth the hair cuti- PG-Trimonium Chloride, the active component of cle giving a softer feeling and reducing the force QuartaminÒ BTC131. The product shows similar required for combing. performance to Behentrimonium Chloride, having Finally, the use of this type of compounds re- the additional advantage of being more environ- duces the phenomenon of fly-away, associated to mentally friendly. the generation of a static charge by combing. It is thought that the presence of the cationic charge on the molecule plays an important role in the dissi- Introduction pation of this charge. Some authors4 also point It is well known that Hair Conditioners are used out, that the reduction of the combing force by to provide a variety of benefits to hair: they reduce lubrication is the primary mechanism involved in the combing force, enhance the gloss, confer the reduction of fly-away, as a consequence of the smoothness and antistatic properties and they decrease of the static charge generation on the improve the manageability of the hair.1 hair due to the smaller forces required for combing. Hair Conditioners contain a variety of different ingredients including cationic surfactants, poly- mers, emollients, emulsifiers, and special com- Monoalkyl Ammonium Compounds versus pounds such us vitamins, UV filters, etc. Amidoamine Derivatives Among all these products, cationic surfactants Particularly well proven are cationic surfactants in the form of quaternary ammonium salts (quats) having a trimethyl ammonium group. Among these have been traditionally used as key components in products, Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) (Fig.1), 2 the formulation of Hair Conditioners . Quats can be containing a cetyl alkyl chain (C16), is one of the considered as ammonium salts with the hydrogen most widely used. atoms substituted by alkyl groups being, at least, A similar structure is that of Behentrimonium one of these groups a long-chain alkyl group. Chloride (BTAC), where the alkyl fatty chain con- sists primarily of a behenic radical (C22). (Fig.2). Simple hair rinsing formulations were prepared This compound, has been more and more widely for the comparative tests. The composition of them used in the last years, due to the excellent per- is detailed in Table 1. Two types of preparations formance associated to the very long alkyl chain5. were used in the study: on one side formulations This behenyl radical contributes to an improved consisting in the dispersion of the single cationic wet and dry combing, as well as to a smoother surfactants, and on the other side, formulations feeling, compared with the shorter cetyl radical. combining the cationic with fatty alcohols, in a ratio A comparative study of the performance of of 1:2 (w/w). these compounds has been performed. In this study, an alternative structure to these monoal- Table 1: Test Formulations kylammonium compounds has also been consid- Single cat. Cat / FA (1/2) ered. This is the Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine CTAC 1.5 1.5 (SDMA) (Fig.3), an alkyl amidoamine. This com- BTAC 1.5 1.5 pound, which is also commonly used in the mar- SDMA 1.5 1.5 ket, is not an ammonium derivative, but in acidic Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 3.0 3.0 media presents a net cationic charge and can, therefore, be considered as a cationic surfactant6. Water Up to 100 Lactic Acid pH adjusted to 3.5 – 4.0

Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) The commercial products used in the preparation of these compositions are detailed at the end

CH3 of the document l The assessment was carried out on tresses of CH -(CH ) - N+ - CH Cl - 3 2 15 3 18 g and 22 cm long, prepared from Caucasian l Virgin hair. The testing formulations were applied CH 3 in a quantity of 1 g per tress, during 1 min and then Active component of Quartamin? 60W25 rinsed (tap water) at 40ºC during 1 min. After that, Figure 1 the corresponding determinations in wet condition were performed. Then, hair tresses were dried by means of a hair-dryer and then left for conditioning Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) overnight in a room with controlled temperature and relative humidity. In this point the corresponding assessments in dry conditions were carried CH3 l out. + - CH3-(CH2)15 CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2 - N - CH3 Cl l CH 3 Combing Force evaluation Active component of QuartaminÒ AB The assessment of the combing ability was car- Figure 2 ried out automatically via dynamometric measurements on an Instron (Model 5543, cell 1 Kg) at 500 mm/min. The results of these measurements are summarized in the graphs below, both for wet Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Fig.4) and for dry conditions (Fig. 5). (SDMA) As it can be seen in the graph, the lowest combing forces in wet condition are obtained for CH 3 the monoalkyl ammonium compound having the

CH3-(CH2)15-CH2-CO-NH-CH2-CH2-CH2- N longest alkyl chain, which is the Behentrimonium CH Chloride (Quartaminâ AB). In dry hair, the comb- 3 ing force for both quats is very similar and lower than that of amidoamine salt (SDMA). Figure 3 The effect of the presence of fatty alcohol is clearly observed in wet hair: in all cases, the combing forces of the formulations containing fatty The study consisted in the measurement of alcohol are approximately half compared to prod- combing forces (both in wet and dry conditions), ucts that only contain the cationic surfactant. On the assessment of antistatic ability and the per- the other hand, in dry conditions and for the two formance of a sensorial evaluation by a panel of quats used in the study, the fatty alcohol does not experts. cause any significant effect. For the SDMA, how-

2 ever, the presence of fatty alcohol seems to in- The static charge was measured after 30 s of crease the combing force in dry hair. 10 combs performed on dry hair tresses. Prior to the measurements the tresses were left for conditioning over-night at 20ºC ± 1ºC and 40% RH ± 5%. Data shown in Figure 6 correspond to the mean value of 10 measurements. Combing Force - Wet Condition Antistatic Properties Shampoo Electrostatic Charge Generated by combing 710 Conditioning 21ºC, 40%RH 7000 304 Single Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Q.60W25 150 6000 4273 233 5000 Q.AB 124 4000 2571 3017 2900 317 SDMA 3000 2348 2254 134

Charge (Volts) 2000 0 200 400 600 800 1000 Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Max Force (g) 0 Q.60W25 Q.AB SDMA Figure 4: Combing forces in Wet Hair (Caucasian type), Max Peak (g). Determination with Instron Figure 6: Electrostatic charge by combing. Charge Dynamometer at 500 mm/min generated on hair after 10 combs

Sensorial evaluation A panel of 6 experts contributed in the sensorial Combing Force - Dry Condition evaluation of the main important properties associated to the use of Hair Conditioners. The evaluation was carried out by means of a paired test7. Shampoo 114 The assessment was carried out on hair both in wet and in dry conditions: 53 Q.60W25 Wet Condition: Feeling during the applica- 59 tion, Feeling through rinsing, Combing Ability and Wet Smoothness were considered for the 58 Q.AB evaluation. 55 Dry Condition: testers were asked about Dry 79 Combability, Dry Smoothness, Volume, Shine SDMA 114 and Antistatic Effect on the treated tresses with the different formulations. In the case of this latest property, testers observed the fly away 0 50 100 150 phenomenon produced on tresses after 10 Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Max Force (g) combs. The lowest fly away generation was associated to the best antistatic ability. Figure 5: Combing forces in Dry Hair (Caucasian The data obtained in the evaluation were sub- type), Max Peak (g). Determination with Instron sequently submitted to statistical treatment. The Dynamometer at 500 mm/min results are summarized in Figure 7 (Wet properties) and Figure 8 (Dry properties). Differences higher than 0.3 units can be considered significant, and they are marked in the graph with the symbol Antistatic Properties (*). The antistatic ability of the different molecules was determined using a static sensor (Model 709, 3M Electrical Specialities Division).

3 SENSORIAL EVALUATION .- Paired Test A supplementary observation can be made Wet Properties from these results: the differences among products are less pronounced for dry properties than for the SDMA + FA * properties associated to wet hair. For the evaluation in dry conditions, it can be pointed out that SDMA Cetrimonium Chloride (combined with fatty alcohol) is the one presenting the highest fly-away, and Q.60W25 + FA * in consequence is the one assessed to give sig- Q.60W25 * * nificantly more volume.

Q.AB + FA * * Behentrimonium Chloride: Commercial

Q.AB Forms As we have just discussed, the Behentrimo- -1.2 -0.8 -0.4 0.0 0.4 0.8 1.2 nium Chloride is one of the best performing quats Q.AB + Q.60W25 SDMA + Q.AB Q.60W25 SDMA available in the market. FA + FA FA Wet smoothness 0.14 0.33 -0.28 -0.06 0.14 -0.28 It is manufactured by the alkylation of the cor- Wet Combability 0.28 0.03 -0.39 0.19 0.11 -0.22 responding tertiary amine of technical grade, the Rinsing 0.25 0.14 -0.22 -0.22 -0.03 0.08 Arachidyl-Behenyl Dimethyl amine, with Methyl Application 0.11 0.44 -0.11 -0.31 0.00 -0.14 Chloride. Usually in this step a solvent is required Figure 7: Sensorial evaluation of Wet Properties. to help in the manufacturing process. One of the solvents currently used in the products present in the market is the isopropilic alcohol.

SENSORIAL EVALUATION .- Paired Test One example of this product is the one manu- Dry Properties factured by Kao Chemicals Europe under the trade name of Quartaminâ AB. The principal physico- SDMA + FA chemical properties of this product are summarised in Table 2. SDMA * * Table 2: Characteristics of Quartaminâ AB Q.60W25 + FA * * INCI Name Behentrimonium Chloride Q.60W25 Appearance (20ºC) White solid, pellets Q.AB + FA Active matter (meq/g) 1.95 minimum

Q.AB Solvent (%) 14 - 20 (Isopropilic Alcohol) -1.2 -0.8 -0.4 0.0 0.4 0.8 1.2

Q.AB + Q.60W25 SDMA + Q.AB Q.60W25 SDMA Dry matter (%) 77 minimum FA + FA FA Shine 0.11 0.03 0.06 -0.03 -0.17 -0.06 Melting point (ºC) 60 - 65 Antistatic Ability 0.03 0.31 -0.03 -0.36 0.00 0.06 pH (5% in IPA /Water, 1/1) 6 – 8 Body / Volume -0.11 -0.14 0.19 0.28 -0.08 -0.14 Dry Smoothness 0.08 0.11 0.03 0.03 -0.11 -0.14 Solubility in Water Dispersible Dry Combability -0.06 0.19 0.00 -0.06 0.06 -0.14 Alkyl Chain Arachidyl-Behenyl

Figure 8: Sensorial evaluation of Dry Properties. Character Cationic

It can be observed that in general, Quartaminâ An alternative to the use of flammable solvents AB, the Behentrimonium Chloride, is the product is the addition of a fatty alcohol. This substance is showing the most balanced performances. Proper- typically found in the final formulation of a Hair ties where it particularly stands out are wet com- Conditioner since, as it has been shown in the results above and as it is described in the litera- bability and the feeling through rinsing, for wet 8 condition, and shine and dry smoothness for dry ture , its use along with the cationic surfactant hair. Furthermore, it should be pointed out, that a causes a synergetic effect. In addition to that, fatty remarkable synergism is produced between the alcohols are materials that also enhance the vis- quaternary compounds and the fatty alcohol, es- cosity of the formulation. pecially in the case of the Behentrimonium Chlo- This is the case of the Quartaminâ ABK, a ride in wet conditions. product with the same cationic ingredient as Quartaminâ AB, but containing Cetearyl alcohol

4 instead of Isopropanol. The characteristics of the Melting Point of Quartaminâ ABK product are summarised in Table 3. versus Cationic Content and Fatty Alcohol Type

120 Cetyl alc. (C16) Stearyl alc. (C18) Table 3: Characteristics of Quartamin ABK 110 Cetearyl alc.(C16/C18 (50/50)) 100 Behentrimonium Chloride INCI Name and Cetearyl Alcohol 90 Appearance (20ºC) White solid in pellets 80 Active matter (meq/g) 0.82 – 0.88 70 Fatty alcohol content Around 65 % Melting Temperature (ºC) 60 Melting point (ºC) Around 80ºC 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 Cationic Active Matter (%) pH (5% in IPA/Water, 1/1) 6 – 8 Solubility in Water Dispersible Figure 9: Melting point of Behentrimonium Chlo- Alkyl Chain Arachidyl-Behenyl ride and fatty alcohol blends according to cationic Character Cationic content and type of fatty alcohol.

Combing Properties To establish the composition of the product, two Max aspects have been taken into account: firstly, the Force (g) 300 melting point of the product, which is a function of 263 wet the content of cationic surfactant, and secondly, 250 dry the performance of the blend cationic plus fatty alcohol. 200 The relationship between the melting point of 142 129 the product and the composition is shown in Fig- 150 127 128 ure 9. Ideally, the higher the concentration of cati- 100 53 onic, the more interesting ratio price/performance 33 48 33 34 of the product. But, as it is shown in the graph, 50 blends with a total cationic content higher than 35% present a melting point higher than 90ºC. 0 This high temperature would cause problems dur- No FA 1/2 1/3 1/4 1/5 Ratio BTAC / Cetearyl Alc. ing the manufacture of the product and a risk of damaging of the cationic surfactant. Figure 10: Combing force measurements of Be- The second aspect to consider is the effect of hentrimonium Chloride/Cetearyl alcohol blends ac- the fatty alcohol in the performance of the Hair cording to the fatty alcohol content. Conditioner. In Figure 10 we show the combing forces corresponding to blends of Behentrimonium Quartaminâ ABK is thus, an alternative source Chloride with Cetearyl alcohol at different ratios of Behentrimonium Chloride in the market. Apart Cationic / Fatty Alcohol. As it can be seen in the from the point of view of safety, it does not contain graph, no special effect in the reduction of the flammable solvents, it exhibits additional advan- combing force is produced from a ratio Cat / FA tages. The presentation of the product in pellets higher than 1 to 2. facilitates the handling of the product and makes Thus, taking into account these both aspects, easy the preparation of the hair rinse, since it can the final composition of the product, was set with a be added directly on the aqueous phase, without total cationic product of around 35% and a fatty pre-melting. On the other hand, the incorporation alcohol (Cetearyl type) of about 65%. of the fatty alcohol in the product is also an additional help for the manufacture of the hair rinse: the fact of having two products in one reduces the number of components, which can be translated in a save in the cost of the manufacturing process. Apart from that, the use of Quartaminâ ABK in the formulation of a Hair Conditioner, instead of adding Behentrimonium Chloride plus the fatty

5 alcohol, produces an emulsion with better charac- Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride: an eco- teristics: higher viscosities, lower particle sizes and logical alternative based in Behenic alkyl chain more liquid crystals. This better emulsifying prop- Even though monoalkylammonium compounds erty of Quartaminâ ABK can be appreciated in are the cationic surfactants most commonly used Figures 11, 12 and 13. in Hair Rinses, it is well known that this kind of products present some limitations regarding to Viscosity of the aqueous dispersions their ecotoxicological properties. The direct chemi- BTAC with Cetearyl alcohol cal bond between the methylene group and the Viscosity at 20ºC (cps) nitrogen atom, present in this kind of chemical structures, is difficult to cleave, which causes a 35000 1.5 % cat / 3.0% FA poor level of biodegradability. 30000 1.5 % cat / 5.0% FA 2.5 % cat / 5.0% FA This aspect has been improved by other mole- 25000 cules having chemical bonds susceptible to hy- 20000 drolysis, as can be the ester bonds. In the last 15 – 15000 20 years an increased concern for ecological 10000 matters has taken place, thus, alternative com- 5000 pounds have appeared in the market, being the commonly named Ester Quats, the ones of biggest 0 9 6 rpm 12 rpm 6 rpm 12 rpm importance .

Q.AB Q.ABK Among this group there exists a great variety of different chemical structures, having as a common feature the presence of an ester bond between the Figure 11: Viscosity of the aqueous. dispersions long alkyl chain and the nitrogen atom. Behentrimonium Chloride / Cetearyl The Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride (Fig. 14) represents one example of these chemical struc- Particle size distribution tures. 100 Q.AB 80 Q.ABK Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride 60 (BPGTAC) % CH 40 3 l + - CH3-(CH2)20-COOCH2-CH-CH2- N - CH3 Cl

20 l I OH CH3

0 Active component of QuartaminÒ BTC-131 0.10 1.00 10.00 100.00 Particle size (µm) Figure 14: Chemical structure of Behenoyl PG- Figure 12: Particle size distribution of an aq. dis- Trimonium Chloride persion with 1.5% of Behentrimonium Chloride and 3% of Cetearyl alcohol The product is the result of the condensation of Behenic acid, a material of vegetal origin, and epichlorohydrin. The commercial version of this cationic ester quat is Quartaminâ BTC-131, manufactured by Quartaminâ AB Kao Chemicals Europe. The technical characteristics of this product are summarised in Table 4.

Quartaminâ ABK

Figure 13: Microscopic aspect of the same emulsion of Fig.12. Top: QuartaminÒ AB, Bottom: QuartaminÒ ABK. Right: Polarized Light

6 Table 4: Characteristics of Quartaminâ BTC-131 Two types of preparations were also used in Behenoyl PG-Trimonium this part of the study: the single cationic surfac- INCI Name Chloride tants dispersed in water and formulations combin- Appearance (20ºC) Solid paste ing the cationic with Cetearyl alcohol, in a ratio of 1:2 (w/w). Active matter (%) Around 70% Solvent Hexilenglycol / Water Table 6: Test Formulations Melting point (ºC) Around 50ºC Single cat Cat / FA (1/2) pH (10% Water) 3.4 – 4.6 BTAC 1.5 1.5 Solubility in Water Dispersible BPGTAC 1.5 1.5 Alkyl Chain Arachidyl-Behenyl Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 3.0 Character Cationic Water Up to 100 Lactic Acid pH adjusted to 3.5 – 4.0 As it usually occurs, in the group of Ester Quats, this product shows a very favourable ecotoxicological profile. The corresponding properties are summarised in Table 5. Combing forces The results of these measurements are sum- Table 5: Ecotoxicological Properties of marized in Figure 15. In the graph it is shown the Quartaminâ BTC-131 comparative behaviour of the two products, as single molecules and combined with Cetearyl al- Toxicological data cohol. From these results, it can be concluded that

Toxicity, oral rat (OECD 401) LD50 > 2000 mg/Kg both products present the same combing behaviour. Ecotoxicity Fish Toxicity, (Rainbow LC > 100 mg/l (96 h) Trout) (OECD 203) 50 Combing Properties Max Daphnia Toxicity (OECD 202) EC = 35 mg/l (48 h) 50 Force (g) 300 Wet Dry Biodegradability 233 229 Aerobic biodegradation 250 > 74% (28 days) (OECD 301D) 200 Anaerobic biodegradation > 60 % 123 (ISO 11734D) 150 124

100

50 Additionally, according to the results of the RBC 58 59 55 55 test (Red Blood Cell Test) the product Quartaminâ 0 BTC-131 can be classified as non eye-irritant Q.AB Q.131 Q.AB + FA Q.131 + FA (MIOI-value < 5). (1:2) (1:2) Besides the ecotoxicological aspects, Quar- Figure 15: Combing forces (Max Peak (g)) in Wet tamin BTC-131 presents another important fea- and Dry conditions. Determination with Instron Dy- ture. The existence of the long alkyl chain (Be- namometer at 500 mm/min. henyl derivative) confers to the product a very good performing ability concerning its use as active ingredient in hair rinses. A comparative study of the performance of this product has been carried out versus the classical Antistatic ability Behentrimonium Chloride; in this study, the comb- The results of the measurement of the static ing forces and the antistatic ability have been de- charge generated by combing are shown in Figure termined in a similar way as it has been described 16. As it can be observed, QuartaminÒ BTC-131 in the first part of this publication. Additionally, a (BPGTAC) is presenting similar of even better panel of experts has carried out the assessment of antistatic properties than QuartaminÒ AB (BTAC) the important properties associated to a Hair Con- ditioner, using a standardised scale.

7 Antistatic Properties SENSORIAL EVALUATION Wet Properties Score Electrostatic Charge Generated by combing (5 = excellent, 1 = poor) Conditioning 21ºC, 40%RH 5 6000 Cat Cat + FA (1:2) 4 5000 3800 4100 3 4000 2900 2 3000 2500

2000 1

Elecrostatic charge (V) 1000 0 Application Rinsing Detangling Wet Combing Wet Smoothness 0 Control Q.60W25 Q.60W25 + FA Q.AB Q.AB Q. 131 Q.AB + FA Q131 Q131 + FA Figure 17: Sensorial evaluation of Wet Properties. Figure 16: Electrostatic charge by combing. Charge generated on hair after 10 combs.

SENSORIAL EVALUATION Dry Properties (5 = excellent, 1 = poor) Score Sensorial evaluation 5 The evaluation was carried out by means of a 10 scored test , using a standardized scale, where 1 4 meant poor and 5 meant excellent, with a panel of 5 experts. The data were subsequently submitted 3 to statistical treatment. 2 The results of the test are shown in Figure 17

(Wet properties) and Figure 18 (Dry properties) as 1 mean values. In this evaluation, a tress without any additional treatment after shampooing has 0 been included as “control”. Additionally, the prod- Dry Dry Feel Volume Loose Hair Antistaticity Combability uct Cetrimonium Chloride (Quartaminâ 60W25) Control Q.60W25 Q.60W25 + FA Q.AB has also been incorporated as example of quat of Q.AB + FA Q131 Q131 + FA standard performance. Figure 18: Sensorial evaluation of Dry Properties. The results of the assessment of the wet properties show a clear improvement in all properties associated to the use of any conditioner if they are The results of the evaluation in dry conditions compared with the control. show that the differences among products are, in general, much subtler, even if they are compared Apart from that, the formulas containing only to the control. Nevertheless, there are three prop- the single cationic compounds, both Quartaminâ erties where there is a noticeable improvement AB and Quartaminâ BTC-131 are significantly associated to the use of any Hair Conditioner; better than CTAC (Quartaminâ 60W25). The use these are dry combability, the loose hair, and anti- of the cationic compounds combined with fatty staticity. On the contrary, in the evaluation of hair alcohol (Kalcolâ 6850, ratio Cat/FA: 1:2), causes a volume, although the differences are very little and general improvement in all wet properties. In this no significant, there is a clear decrease of this case, when we compare the use of the three dif- property associated to the use of any conditioner. ferent cationic compounds, the trend is similar to On the other hand, if we contrast the results of the one observed for the single molecules, mean- the different products, we see statistically signifi- ing that formulations containing Quartaminâ AB or cant differences for the score of the antistaticity. In Quartaminâ BTC-131 perform better than those this case, all formulations present a better anti- containing Quartaminâ 60W25. The differences static effect than the one containing CTAC as a found in the assessment of the feeling during ap- single component. For the rest of dry properties, plication and detangling ability are statistically sig- the differences observed in the graph should be nificant. considered as a trend. In general, both Quar-

8 taminâ AB and Quartaminâ BTC-131, as well as single components or in combination with fatty 6 U.Kortemeier and H.I.Leidreiter: Conditioning alcohol, present the best scores. Properties of Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. Sensory Assessment and Technical Measure- ments, Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Conclusions Worldwide, 271 – 276 (2000). Behenyl quaternary derivatives are substances 7 ISO 6658 Sensory analysis – Methodology – showing outstanding performance as active ingre- General Guidance: 5.2.2. Paired Comparison dients for hair rinses. The Behentrimonium Chlo- ride represents the most classic and simple com- 8 H.Höffkes, D.Hollenberg, K.D. Wisotzki: Aufbau pound. The usual commercial forms of this ingre- und Wirkungsweise von Haarnachbehandlungs- dient are products of high concentration but con- mittlen. SÖFW 115/17, 613 – 619 (1989). taining flammable solvents. An example of this 9 I.Shapiro, B.Sajic and R.Bezdicek: Environmen- kind of products is QuartaminÒ AB. tally Friendly Ester Quats, Cosmetics & Toiletries An alternative to the use of solvents is the addi- 109 (12), 77 – 80 (1994). tion of a fatty alcohol to the cationic surfactant. 10 ISO 6658 Sensory analysis – Methodology – This additive helps the manufacture of the quater- General Guidance: 5.3.5. Scored Test. nary and also shows additional advantages: synergetic performance, better emulsifying properties and easy handling. This is the case of QuartaminÒ Product References ABK. Finally, to overcome the limitations concerning · Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC): the ecotoxicological properties associated to the QUARTAMINÒ (25% AS) monoalkylammonium derivatives, there are alter- · Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC): native structures such as the Ester Quats. An ex- QUARTAMINÒ AB (80% AS) ample of this group of compounds is QuartaminÒ · Cetearyl Alcohol: BTC-131, where the active ingredient is the Behe- KalcolÒ 6850P (100% AS) noyl PG-Trimonium Chloride. This product, in ad- · Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride: dition to a very good ecotoxicological profile, pres- QUARTAMINÒ BTC-131 (70% AS) ents similar or better performance properties than All of them from Kao Chemicals Europe the classical Behentrimonium Chloride · Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (SDMA): LEXAMINEÒ S-13 (100% AS), from Inolex References

1 J. Jachowicz: Evaluating Effects of Conditioning Author Reference Formulations on Hair, in Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, Cosmetic Science & Technology Blanca Nogués Series, Vol 21. Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York. Personal Care Group 301(1999). R&D Department of Kao Corporation SA (Member of Kao Chemicals Europe) 2 R.Schueller and P. Romanowski: Fundamentals Puig dels Tudons, 10 of Formulating Hair Care Products, Cosmetics & 08210 BARBERÀ DEL VALLÈS (Barcelona) Toiletries 115 (10), 67 -73 (2000). SPAIN 3 M. F.Jurcyzk, D.T.Floyd and B. H.Grüning: Cati- Tel.: +34 93 7399371 onic Surfactants and Quaternary Derivatives for Fax: +34 93 7194412 Hair and Skin Care in Conditioning Agents for Hair e-mail: [email protected] and Skin, Cosmetic Science & Technology Series, Vol 21. Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York. 234- 237(1999). 4 A.C.Lunn and R.E.Evans: The Electrostatic Properties of Human Hair, J.Soc.Cosmet.Chem. 28, 549 – 569 (1977).

5 Anon.: Behenic-based hair conditioning made simple, Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics, (Nov.), 35 – 37 (1996).