QUARTAMIN AB, QUARTAMIN ABK, and QUARTAMIN BTC-131: Key Ingredients for Hair Conditioning

QUARTAMINÒ AB, QUARTAMINÒ ABK, and QUARTAMINÒ BTC-131: Key Ingredients for Hair Conditioning By B. Nogués, M. Mundó, N. Siscart, and P. Castán, KAO CHEMICALS EUROPE (Spain) Summary In this article, three cationic products based on The ability of this kind of compounds to provide Behenyl alkyl chain are introduced. These prod- conditioning properties to hair is due both to the ucts are available under the trade names QUAR- hydrophobic nature of the alkyl rest as well as to TAMINÒ AB, QUARTAMINÒ ABK and QUAR- the cationic charge of the polar head group. TAMINÒ BTC-131. One of the important features associated to Different conditioning properties, comparing the quats is their high efficiency in the deposition on 3 QuartaminÒ AB (Behentrimonium Chloride) versus the hair ; that can be explained in terms of the QuartaminÒ 60W25 (Cetrimonium Chloride) and electrostatic interaction between the strong posi- SDMA (Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine): comb- tive charge of the molecule and the negatively ing forces, antistaticity, and smoothing ability are charged hair surface. In addition to these electro- reviewed. static forces, there are also interactions between QuartaminÒ ABK (Behentrimonium Chloride the fatty alkyl chain and the hair’s protein struc- and Cetearyl Alcohol) is presented as an alterna- tures, which also help these compounds to remain tive to QuartaminÒ AB with the following advan- on the hair surface throughout the rinsing process. tages: non-flammable, easy handling and better On the other hand, once the cationic surfac- emulsifying properties. tants are deposited on the hair surface they pro- Finally, another chemical structure, also based vide a sort of benefits that are related to the fatty on Behenyl chain is introduced. This is Behenoyl moiety of the molecule. They smooth the hair cuti- PG-Trimonium Chloride, the active component of cle giving a softer feeling and reducing the force QuartaminÒ BTC131. The product shows similar required for combing. performance to Behentrimonium Chloride, having Finally, the use of this type of compounds re- the additional advantage of being more environ- duces the phenomenon of fly-away, associated to mentally friendly. the generation of a static charge by combing. It is thought that the presence of the cationic charge on the molecule plays an important role in the dissi- Introduction pation of this charge. Some authors4 also point It is well known that Hair Conditioners are used out, that the reduction of the combing force by to provide a variety of benefits to hair: they reduce lubrication is the primary mechanism involved in the combing force, enhance the gloss, confer the reduction of fly-away, as a consequence of the smoothness and antistatic properties and they decrease of the static charge generation on the improve the manageability of the hair.1 hair due to the smaller forces required for combing. Hair Conditioners contain a variety of different ingredients including cationic surfactants, poly- mers, emollients, emulsifiers, and special com- Monoalkyl Ammonium Compounds versus pounds such us vitamins, UV filters, etc. Amidoamine Derivatives Among all these products, cationic surfactants Particularly well proven are cationic surfactants in the form of quaternary ammonium salts (quats) having a trimethyl ammonium group. Among these have been traditionally used as key components in products, Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) (Fig.1), 2 the formulation of Hair Conditioners . Quats can be containing a cetyl alkyl chain (C16), is one of the considered as ammonium salts with the hydrogen most widely used. atoms substituted by alkyl groups being, at least, A similar structure is that of Behentrimonium one of these groups a long-chain alkyl group. Chloride (BTAC), where the alkyl fatty chain con- sists primarily of a behenic radical (C22). (Fig.2). Simple hair rinsing formulations were prepared This compound, has been more and more widely for the comparative tests. The composition of them used in the last years, due to the excellent per- is detailed in Table 1. Two types of preparations formance associated to the very long alkyl chain5. were used in the study: on one side formulations This behenyl radical contributes to an improved consisting in the dispersion of the single cationic wet and dry combing, as well as to a smoother surfactants, and on the other side, formulations feeling, compared with the shorter cetyl radical. combining the cationic with fatty alcohols, in a ratio A comparative study of the performance of of 1:2 (w/w). these compounds has been performed. In this study, an alternative structure to these monoal- Table 1: Test Formulations kylammonium compounds has also been consid- Single cat. Cat / FA (1/2) ered. This is the Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine CTAC 1.5 1.5 (SDMA) (Fig.3), an alkyl amidoamine. This com- BTAC 1.5 1.5 pound, which is also commonly used in the mar- SDMA 1.5 1.5 ket, is not an ammonium derivative, but in acidic Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 3.0 3.0 media presents a net cationic charge and can, therefore, be considered as a cationic surfactant6. Water Up to 100 Lactic Acid pH adjusted to 3.5 – 4.0 Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) The commercial products used in the prepara- tion of these compositions are detailed at the end CH3 of the document l The assessment was carried out on tresses of CH -(CH ) - N+ - CH Cl - 3 2 15 3 18 g and 22 cm long, prepared from Caucasian l Virgin hair. The testing formulations were applied CH 3 in a quantity of 1 g per tress, during 1 min and then Active component of Quartamin? 60W25 rinsed (tap water) at 40ºC during 1 min. After that, Figure 1 the corresponding determinations in wet condition were performed. Then, hair tresses were dried by means of a hair-dryer and then left for conditioning Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) overnight in a room with controlled temperature and relative humidity. In this point the corresponding assessments in dry conditions were carried CH3 l out. + - CH3-(CH2)15 CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2 CH2-CH2 - N - CH3 Cl l CH 3 Combing Force evaluation Active component of QuartaminÒ AB The assessment of the combing ability was car- Figure 2 ried out automatically via dynamometric measurements on an Instron (Model 5543, cell 1 Kg) at 500 mm/min. The results of these measurements are summarized in the graphs below, both for wet Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Fig.4) and for dry conditions (Fig. 5). (SDMA) As it can be seen in the graph, the lowest combing forces in wet condition are obtained for CH 3 the monoalkyl ammonium compound having the CH3-(CH2)15-CH2-CO-NH-CH2-CH2-CH2- N longest alkyl chain, which is the Behentrimonium CH Chloride (Quartaminâ AB). In dry hair, the comb- 3 ing force for both quats is very similar and lower than that of amidoamine salt (SDMA). Figure 3 The effect of the presence of fatty alcohol is clearly observed in wet hair: in all cases, the combing forces of the formulations containing fatty The study consisted in the measurement of alcohol are approximately half compared to prod- combing forces (both in wet and dry conditions), ucts that only contain the cationic surfactant. On the assessment of antistatic ability and the per- the other hand, in dry conditions and for the two formance of a sensorial evaluation by a panel of quats used in the study, the fatty alcohol does not experts. cause any significant effect. For the SDMA, how- 2 ever, the presence of fatty alcohol seems to in- The static charge was measured after 30 s of crease the combing force in dry hair. 10 combs performed on dry hair tresses. Prior to the measurements the tresses were left for conditioning over-night at 20ºC ± 1ºC and 40% RH ± 5%. Data shown in Figure 6 correspond to the mean value of 10 measurements. Combing Force - Wet Condition Antistatic Properties Shampoo Electrostatic Charge Generated by combing 710 Conditioning 21ºC, 40%RH 7000 304 Single Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Q.60W25 150 6000 4273 233 5000 Q.AB 124 4000 2571 3017 2900 317 SDMA 3000 2348 2254 134 Charge (Volts) 2000 0 200 400 600 800 1000 Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Max Force (g) 0 Q.60W25 Q.AB SDMA Figure 4: Combing forces in Wet Hair (Caucasian type), Max Peak (g). Determination with Instron Figure 6: Electrostatic charge by combing. Charge Dynamometer at 500 mm/min generated on hair after 10 combs Sensorial evaluation A panel of 6 experts contributed in the sensorial Combing Force - Dry Condition evaluation of the main important properties associated to the use of Hair Conditioners. The evaluation was carried out by means of a paired test7. Shampoo 114 The assessment was carried out on hair both in wet and in dry conditions: 53 Q.60W25 Wet Condition: Feeling during the applica- 59 tion, Feeling through rinsing, Combing Ability and Wet Smoothness were considered for the 58 Q.AB evaluation. 55 Dry Condition: testers were asked about Dry 79 Combability, Dry Smoothness, Volume, Shine SDMA 114 and Antistatic Effect on the treated tresses with the different formulations. In the case of this latest property, testers observed the fly away 0 50 100 150 phenomenon produced on tresses after 10 Cat Cat+FA (1:2) Max Force (g) combs. The lowest fly away generation was associated to the best antistatic ability. Figure 5: Combing forces in Dry Hair (Caucasian The data obtained in the evaluation were sub- type), Max Peak (g). Determination with Instron sequently submitted to statistical treatment. The Dynamometer at 500 mm/min results are summarized in Figure 7 (Wet properties) and Figure 8 (Dry properties). Differences higher than 0.3 units can be considered significant, and they are marked in the graph with the symbol Antistatic Properties (*).

Load more