taste of broward thursday february 25 7pm - 10pm Come celebrate the Broward / Palm Beach New Times - Taste of Broward issue launch with some of the great restaurants available at Westfield Broward. Each of our restaurants will be showcasing their food in 45 min increments throughout the night with two open bars with related beer pairings. Tickets are $5 and all proceeds will be donated to local food bank LifeNet4Families. tickets AvAilAble At BiT.Ly/TasTEoFBroWard 2 TASTE 2016 browardpalmbeach.com PERFECTION IN EVERY DETAIL Bosch brings its expertise in European design to your kitchen, o ering a perfectly flush line that blends in seamlessly to any kitchen style. monarkhome.com SHOWROOM LOCATIONS 6300 S. Dixie Highway, Miami 305 669 0910 1742 W. Atlantic Blvd, Pompano Beach 954 956 7051 400 Northpoint Pkwy, Suite 400, West Palm Beach 561 622 9900 27180 Bay Landing Dr, Suite 1, Bonita Springs 239 495 8535 5670 Fruitville Rd, Sarasota 941 926 0700 500 S Park Ave, Winter Park 407 636 9725 monarkhome monarkhome monarkhome monarkpremiumappliance ©2016 Monark Premium Appliance Co. All rights reserved. browardpalmbeach.com TASTE 2016 3 very year, the Taste Guide aims to give readers just that: a taste of the ever-evolving edible scene in South Florida. This year, we’re getting down to business. We’re tracking trends, like the barbe- E cue craze that is filling the area with the aroma of smoked meats and house-made sauces. South Florida also benefits from our Caribbean proximity, so we’ve put together a list of the best Jamaican restaurants in Broward and Palm Beach counties. Local brewers reveal the reality of what it takes to turn your homebrewing hobby into a commercial concern. And chef Louie Bossi tells the tale of how he went from tossing pizzas to curing his own salumi in the restaurant that shares his name. Meanwhile, local activists hope to save our food chain by saving the bees with urban apiaries. From bees to beer, from counter service to white tablecloths, it’s a good time to be eating in South Florida. ► BEE READY.....................6 SMOKED.........................8 ► OLD-WORLD COOKING.........12 STIRRING THINGS UP...........14 ► WILL BREW FOR MONEY........18 ISLAND TO PENINSULA..........20 ► LEE’S PICKS.................22 BIG EVENTS AT THE FEST.......24 ► YOUNG GUNS................27 AT A TENDER AGE..............28 ► TASTE TEST.................30 4 4 TASTETASTE 2016 2016 browardpalmbeach.commiaminewtimes.com browardpalmbeach.com TASTE 2016 5 Taste BEE READY Public land may save Broward’s dwindling apiaries. more disappeared. We lost approxi- Albee. “And the city said, ‘Sure.’ ” mately 36 percent. The direct cause is It then went to the state, which still up for debate. Many blame sub- eventually sent out an inspector to lethal effects of pesticides, but there advise and sign off, certifying that were also pathogens, parasites (like the hives qualify under Florida’s the nasty varroa), and nutrition issues. best management practices. Much of the food we eat relies To avoid direct contact between on pollinators like ants, bats, birds, bees and the public, the apiary is and butterflies. Among the products surrounded by a six-foot fence. Cold- they help produce are almonds, well, who makes a living as a general apples, plums, pears, cherries, rasp- contractor, installed windows so berries, blackberries, and strawber- people could see the action. The ries. Bees are the workhorses of the chance of coming into direct contact lot. Without them, the human food with a bee is minuscule with this supply would be in critical danger. setup. When apis leave the hive, they Because of this, Apidae have be- fly vertically, usually four or five feet come a huge topic of conversation. in the air. With a tall fence, their flight The State of Florida, Department of path is forced even higher. They Agriculture & Consumer Services, then forage two to six miles from the and the University of Florida are try- hive, so they’re not concentrated in Because every bee ing to increase bee populations. “Ev- a small area. Regardless, bees are not needs a home. erybody wants the best for bees,” says aggressive when looking for food. Photo by John Coldwell of Urban Farming Institute Coldwell. “What we want is nice bees, Albee and Coldwell check the ten BY SARA VENTIERA everywhere, and a way to educate hives multiple times per week, far people so they’re not afraid of them.” more often than most beekeepers. he Broward Beekeepers Starting in spring of 2015, Lewis, To make it happen, Lewis helped They are maintaining the neces- Association was worried Albee, and Coldwell went down a secure a $5,000 grant sary logs to develop when the possibility arose path that recently culminated with through BRHPC. “Their information, acquire that it would lose the the grand opening of Florida’s first emphasis is to better the WITHOUT data, and obtain sup- north-central Broward microapiary on public land. The health of the commu- BEES, THE port for more grants. CountyT tract where community Discovery Farm and Gardens at nity at large in Broward In addition to other HUMAN apiaries are located. Some used it to Jaco Pastorius Park is the proto- County,” says Coldwell. FOOD SUPPLY agriculture-related temporarily house bees rescued from type for a countywide effort to save “That covers hospitals, courses and cooking unwanted locations. If the association declining honeybee populations food programs, farm- WOULD BE lessons, the Urban lost the plot, it would be harder find through rescue efforts, sustain- ing, and other areas. IN CRITICAL Farming Institute is new homes for rescued hives. That able management, and research. Bees fit right into that.” DANGER. now offering classes could potentially open the door to Bee populations in Florida have The apiary was not on beekeeping. Every chemical pest control and declining been hit hard over the past two de- the first garden program funded Saturday, whether there is a specific populations of the most important cades. In the early-aughts, there was by the council. BRHPC helped get class or not, someone will be onsite pollinator of fruits and vegetables. fear of invading aggressive African- Dania Beach People’s Access to to answer questions about the bees. But BBA member Daniel Lewis, ized bees. So the state took action, Community Horticulture (PATCH) Albee is also in talks with Broward an at-large board member of the killing off large numbers of Apidae, $35,000 for start-up costs. College about initiating certificate Broward Regional Health Planning good and bad. By 2006-07, it was Lewis hit stumbling blocks with programs in apiary management. Council (BRHPC), had a solution obvious those measures were not the city. Coincidentally, someone from “We want to have a vigorous con- brewing: What if microapiaries were working. Africanized bees bred with the PATCH program called Coldwell versation about turning this [urban established on public land on a num- western honeybees, creating health- for a beehive, and he just happened to beekeeping] into jobs and what ber of venues across Broward County? ier, calmer mixed-breed populations be rescuing one from a location close this would look like,” adds Albee. His idea had been around in the that are resistant to disease like pesky to the garden. That’s when he met Since Oakland Park put its name beekeeping community for about four varroa mites, a deadly apis parasite. Lewis. Within several days, Coldwell on the program and it’s now up and or five years, BBA member/Urban Even so, bee populations contin- introduced Lewis to Albee, knowing running, other municipalities have Farming Institute apiary director John ued to be attacked. In the mid-’00s, the Dania Beach apiary. Given Albee’s reached out to the team. “The idea Coldwell says. But Lewis used his Colony Collapse Disorder was discov- relationship with the city, through of apiary on public venues has been political know-how and connections ered. That’s a phenomenon in which the Urban Farming Institute, they around for a while,” says Coldwell. to make it happen. “Jon Albee [Urban bees abandon hives and eventually decided to try Oakland Park instead. “They [other cities] ran away politi- Farming Institute founder] and I get a perish. During the 2006-07 winter, Albee and Coldwell took over from cally, because when you talk about lot of credit related to this,” Coldwell commercial apiarists reported hive there. Together, they went through bees, you talk about getting stung. It adds. “I want to give credit where losses near 32 percent. (Losses of 18.9 presentations at parks & recreation, was the City of Oakland Park who had credit is due — the entire concept on percent are considered economically zoning, and the building department. the courage to say yes, to allow Jon public land was Dan Lewis’ idea.” sustainable.) The following year, even “It took about five minutes,” says Albee to put it on a public park.”◆ 66 TASTETASTE 2016 2016 browardpalmbeach.commiaminewtimes.com 1602 NewTimes Girl.qxp_Layout 1 2/17/16 2:11 PM Page 1 “Best Breakfast in Town.” -Banyan Air “No other place like it in South Florida.” -New Times “H H H H H” First Class Catering and Food -Palm Aire Country Club "One of the Best Lunch Spots in Fort Lauderdale" -The Sun Sentinel “Impressive Setting. Even more impressive Food.” -Food and Wine “The View, The Food, The Service..PERFECT.” -The Glamorous Gourmet “THE Best Venue for ANY kind of Event.” –Event Design and Services 5540 NW 21st Terrace • Ft. Lauderdale • 954.958.9900 • jetrunwaycafe.com browardpalmbeach.com TASTE 2016 7 Taste SMOKED Florida might not have its own style of ’cue, but we do have options.