The National Herald NOVEMBER 18, 2006 GREEK www.thenationalherald.com Food&Wine

California Dreamin’: Westcoast Byzantine Greek Fusion Food

Let’s Toast and Boast About Greek Wines

Why is Greek Food so Healthy?

A Unique Group of Women: The Recipe Club of St. Paul’s

Never Too Early to Start Thinking About the Holidays 2 Greek Food & Wine THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 3 4 Greek Food & Wine THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006

By Jim Botsacos least 3 hours or overnight. Chef/Partner of Molyvos 2. When ready to cook, combine chicken stock, butter, 2 tablespoons Vasilopita extra virgin olive oil, salt and pep- New Year Cake per to taste. In a medium sauce pan, bring to a boil. Cook for 5-6 INGREDIENTS: minutes, then reserve, this will be 4 1/2 cupsAll Purpose Flour your basting liquid. 1 tsp Salt 3. Place a medium sauté pan on ? tsp Baking Soda medium high heat, add 2 table- 1 tsp Baking Powder spoons of oil, remove breast from 5 Eggs, separated marinate and season with salt and 1/2 cup Milk pepper. Place in pan skin side 3/4 cup Orange Juice down. Brown on all sides equally – Zest of 3-4 Oranges approximately 6-8 minutes to 8oz Butter brown on all sides. 1 3/4 cup Granulated Sugar 4. Place seared turkey breasts in Confectioner’s Sugar the roasting pan, skin up. Top with One Silver Coin basting liquid, basting every 15 minutes until the turkey is cooked 1. Preheat oven to 350ΓF. and the internal temperature reads 2. Butter and flour a 10”spring 155ΓF with thermometer, approxi- form pan. Bloom the baking soda mately 40-50 minutes. Let rest 5-6 in the orange juice and milk. Sift minutes before serving. the flour, salt and baking powder together. Fit an electric mixer with Turkey Gravy a paddle attachment and cream the butter and sugar until light and YIELD: 2 QUARTS fluffy. Add the egg yolks one at a INGREDIENTS: time taking care to incorporate well 2 Quarts Brown Turkey Stock each time. Alternate adding the 8 ozs. Flour flour and liquid, starting off with 8 ozs. Butter plus 2 Table- the flour and finishing with the spoons flour. 1 Bay Leaf 3. Whip the egg whites to medi- 1 tsp Granulated Garlic um peaks. 1 sprig Thyme 4. Using a rubber spatula, fold 1 sprig Sage the whipped whites into the batter, 1 cup Heavy Cream then fold in the orange zest. Pour the batter into the mold; spread it 1. Place a heavy gauged stain- evenly with the spatula. Drop a less steel sauce pot over medium clean coin into the batter* and bake flame. Add the 8 ounces of butter 40 – 50 minutes, then lower the and cook until melted. Using a temperature to 300ΓF bake for an wooden spoon slowly stir in the additional 15 minutes until a tooth- flour to create a roux. The butter pick inserted comes out clean. will absorb the flour and become 5. Sprinkle with confectioner’s thick. Cook over a very low flame sugar or create a stencil with the stirring occasional for 6-8 minutes. New Year’s Date and sprinkle the 2. Using a wire whisk, slowly sugar over the stencil, then remove. whisk in the two quarts of turkey stock. Raise the heat, allow coming *Since this a soft batter, the coin to a boil, lower to a simmer and will likely fall to the bottom. You can skimming off any impurities. Let put the coin in after the cake is baked simmer for 5 minutes. to avoid this. 3. Using a wire whisk slowly whisk in the heavy cream until it is The person who gets the coin in Jim Botsacos Shares His Recipes... all incorporated. Add the aromat- his or her slice will have good luck ics and the granulated garlic, sea- for the New Year. son lightly with salt and pepper and 2 whole turkey legs with skin, on the turkey. Transfer to the refriger- be at a bare simmer throughout the 1 cup extra virgin olive oil allow to simmer 10-12 minutes, Slow Roasted Turkey the bone ator and let marinate for 2 days. baking. If it bubbles rapidly, lower 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil until the gravy is the proper consis- a la Grecque 2 lbs lard or goose fat (see note) 3. Unwrap the turkey, rinse un- the heat as you don’t want the legs 1 Tbs Greek oregano tency and the starch is cooked out der cool running water and pat dry. to cook too fast. 1 zest of lemon from the roux. Rice, Sausage & Chestnut Stuffing 1. Combine the garlic, thyme, 4. Place a wire rack on baking 7. Remove the legs from the 1 juice of lemon 4. When ready to serve whisk in Wild Greens Pie, Fall Fruit Spoon Sweets oregano and sage with the allspice, pan. Place the turkey on the wire oven and set aside to cool in the fat. 2 cups turkey stock, recipe follows the remaining 2 tablespoons of but- cloves and cinnamon sticks in a rack and refrigerate for at least 8 When cool, refrigerate, covered (or canned chicken broth) ter, adjust the seasonings, strain YIELD: 4-6 small bowl. Stir in the lemon hours or overnight. This allows the with plastic film, until ready to use. 3 Tbs butter and serve. TO MAKE THE TURKEY CONFIT 2. Place about 1 tablespoon of turkey legs to dry out somewhat. The confit will keep covered in the salt and pepper – to taste INGREDIENTS: the salt in the bottom of an 11-inch 5. Preheat the over to 375oF. rich fat for up to 2 weeks. Note: You may add any reserved 5 cloves garlic, peel on, smashed rectangular glass baking dish. Place the lard in a heavy-bottom 8. When ready to use, pull the 1. In a stainless steel mixing pan dripping from the turkey but 5 sprigs fresh thyme Sprinkle half of the herb/spice mix- sauce pan over low heat, heating meat from the skin and bones. bowl, combine 1 cup of extra virgin they must be reduced and 5 sprigs fresh oregano ture over the salt. Lay the turkey just until melted. Shred the meat and discard both olive oil, garlic, Greek oregano, strained. 3 sprigs fresh sage legs skin side down, in a single lay- 6. Transfer the turkey to a bak- the skin and bones. lemon juice, zest, salt and pepper 12 allspice berries er on top of the seasoning. Sprinkle ing pan. Pour the warm lard over To Assemble: to taste. Using a piece of butchers Turkey Stock 6 whole cloves the remaining herb/spice mixture the turkey legs and cover. Place the twine, tie around the turkey breast 4 cinnamon sticks over the top followed by the re- pan on a cookie sheet. Place in the FOR THE TURKEY: to help hold its shape. Repeat with The stock can be made up to 3 1 lemon, well washed and cut maining salt. Cover with plastic preheated oven and bake for about 1 14-16 lb. Turkey – legs the other breast. Place in a non-re- days ahead. To remove all excess crosswise, into thin slices film and place another heavy pan 2 1/2 hours or until the turkey is and thighs removed, breasts de- active pan, cover with the mari- fat, place stock in fridge until 1/2 cup coarse salt (approx.) on top of the dish to weight down falling off the bone. The fat should boned, carcass reserved nade and place in refrigerator for at chilled, then remove the fat from THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 5 the top of the stock with a ladle. low heat. Add the onion and leek to 30 minutes to soften fruit. Strain along with a pinch of salt. Cover fruit, save liquid, weigh the fruit, YIELD: 2 QUARTS and cook, stirring occasionally, for weigh out an equal amount of sug- INGREDIENTS: about 10 minutes, or until very soft ar. Place fruit and sugar in alter- 1 turkey carcass and translucent. nating layers. In a pot add all of the 4 quarts cold water 2. Raise the heat to medium- liquid, bring to a boil, reduce, then 2 onions, diced high and add another tablespoon of simmer, add sachet, cook 15-20 1 carrot, diced the olive oil. Add the kale and cook minutes. 2 ribs celery for 2 minutes. Add the dandelion Remove from heat, let fruit sit in 2 bay leaves greens and season with salt and syrup about 2-3 hours. Return to 1 sprig thyme pepper to taste. Add the lemon heat, bring to a simmer for 5 min- 2 garlic cloves, smashed juice, Herb Tea, and 2 tablespoons utes, pull off the heat and add 4-5 black peppercorns, of the remaining olive oil. Lower vanilla extract and touch of lemon, whole the heat to medium and cook for 15 cool. pinch of salt to 18 minutes, or until all of the liq- uid has evaporated. Remove from TO MAKE THE TURKEY STOCK: the heat and transfer to a baking Roasted Leg of Lamb with sheet to cool. Herbed Tomatoes 1. Using a heavy chef’s knife or 3. When cool, transfer the mix to cleaver, take the turkey carcass and a stainless steel bowl, fold in the Fe- cut the body up into 5-6 medium ta cheese, Kefalotyri cheese, scal- INGREDIENTS: size pieces. Place the carcass pieces lion and dill and drizzle with 1 ta- 1 7-8 lb Leg of Lamb – main in a roasting pan and roast in the blespoon of the remaining olive oil. bone removed shank bone in tack oven at 450ΓF for 20 - 25 minutes Set aside. Salt and freshly ground until the pieces are lightly 4. Preheat the oven to 375oF. black pepper to taste browned, remove and let rest. 5. Line a baking sheet with 1 Garlic clove - quartered 2. Place the carcass pieces in a parchment paper and place a wire 2 Tbs olive oil stainless steel stock pot with the 4 rack large enough to hold the 1 ? tsp Dried Greek Oregano quarts of cold water, or enough to molds on it. Set aside. ? cup Dry White Wine cover 2 inches over the bones. 6. Hold the phyllo, as directed in 2 ? cups Chicken Stock Bring the water to a boil, then low- note below. Marinated Tomatoes er the heat to a simmer and skim 7. Lay one sheet of phyllo dough Herbed Bread Crumbs away any impurities. Add the on a clean surface and using a pas- onions, carrots, celery, bay leaves, try brush; lightly coat it with a bit of 1. Lay the lamb out on a clean thyme, garlic cloves, black pepper- the remaining olive oil. Using a work surface season the top with corns and pinch of salt to the pot, sharp knife, cut the phyllo down salt and pepper staring at the nar- and simmer for 1 ? hours, until the the center lengthwise into 2 equal row end, roll the lamb up cigar flavor is fully developed. Skim oc- pieces. Then cut each piece length- fashion. Using kitchen string tie casionally. wise into 2 equal pieces so that you the meat in place so that it will hold 3. Turn off the heat and let the now have 4 pieces of equal size. its shape and cook evenly. stock stand 5-10 minutes, strain the Repeat the process to give you 8 aside for 3 minutes. wet or it will render the dough sog- the mixture and then add the 2. Make 4 slits in the lamb, in- stock into another pot, discarding strips, each approximately 1 inch 13. Working with one at a time, gy and unusable. When removing a lemon to the pot. sert a garlic sliver into each slit. bones and vegetables. Reserve the wide. Work with just one piece of invert the molds to remove the sheet of dough, roll back the towel 4. Place the mixture over medi- Use one tablespoon of the olive oil, stock until ready to use. phyllo at a time because, if pre- pies. Serve hot, as is or on top of a and top piece of parchment. Re- um low heat and bring to a simmer. lightly coat the lamb sprinkle with pared in advance, the dough will lightly dressed tossed green salad. move a sheet of phyllo dough, and Cook at a bare simmer for 25 min- the oregano over the lamb and dry out and be unusable. then re-roll the towel and parch- utes. Remove from the heat and set again season with salt and pepper. Hortopita 8. Working with one mold at a Note: To hold the Phyllo. ment back over the remaining aside to steep for 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for Wild Greens Pie time, lay one phyllo strip over the Keep the phyllo dough moist sheets to keep them pliable until Strain through a fine sieve, discard- at least three hours or up to 12 top of a mold. Gently press the while working with it. To do this, ready to use. ing the solids. If not using immedi- hours. YIELD: 12 SERVINGS phyllo down into the mold, letting place a sheet of parchment (or ately, place the liquid in a clean 3. When ready to roast, preheat the excess dough hangs down over wax) paper on a baking sheet. container and store, covered and the oven to 450oF. 1 1/2 cupsExtra Virgin Olive Oil the outside of the mold. Lay a sec- Carefully unroll the entire package Herb Tea refrigerate for up to 3 days. 4. Remove the lamb from the re- (about) ond strip of dough across the mold, of phyllo dough (or the number of frigerator, unwrap and place it in a 2 cups Finely Diced Onion slightly overlapping the first strip, sheets required for your recipe) out INGREDIENTS: large roasting pan. Place in the Coarse Salt and Freshly Ground and press it down into the mold as on the parchment-lined baking 1 Large Carrot, cut into Fall Fruit Spoon Sweets preheated oven and roast for 15 Pepper before. Using two more strips, con- sheet. Cover with another piece of chunks minutes. 1 1/2 cupsFinely Diced White Part tinue to line the mold. parchment (or wax) paper and 1/2 cup Chopped Onion INGREDIENTS: 5. Remove the lamb from the of Leek 9. Taste the cooled greens mix- then cover the entire stack with a 10 Fresh Flat-Leaf Parsley 1/4 cup golden raisins oven and pour the wine into the 2 cups Tightly Packed ture and, if necessary, season with slightly damp, clean kitchen towel. Sprigs 1/2 cup dried cherries pan, add the chicken stock. Re- Blanched Black Kale (also called additional salt and pepper. Spoon Make sure that the towel is not too 5 Peppercorns 1/2 cup figs cut into quarters duce the oven temperature to Cavolo Nero or Dinosaur Kale), enough of the mixture into the 3 Allspice Berries 1/2 cups apricots – sliced 400ΓF, and return the pan to the Chard, or Escarole, Chopped mold to fill it about three-quarters 3 Whole Cloves 2 tsps vanilla extract oven. Roast, basting frequently 1 1/2 cupsTightly Packed full once packed down into the 3 Garlic Cloves, smashed 3 cups Mavrodaphne wine (a with the pan juices, for 40 to 50 Blanched Fresh Dandelion, Mus- mold. 2 Bay Leaves sweet Port-like Greek dessert wine) minutes. If the pan juices dry up, tard, or other bitter greens, 10. Fold the overhanging phyllo 2 Fresh Mint Sprigs sugar (equal amount of hydrated add more stock or water as needed. Chopped up and over the filling to twirling at 1 Fresh Thyme Sprig fruit weight) 6. Remove the lamb from the Juice of 1 Lemon the top to enclose it completely. Us- 1 Cinnamon Stick pinch salt oven. Spoon a thin layer of Herbed 3/4 cup Crumbled Feta Cheese ing a small, sharp knife, make 4 1 tsp Fennel Seeds touch of lemon Tomatoes over the lamb, pressing 1 Tbs Grated Kefalotyri small slits in the edges of the 1 Lemon, cut in half cross- down slightly to make them ad- Cheese dough. Lightly brush with olive oil. wise For the Sachet: A cheesecloth here. Return the lamb to the oven 1 cup Freshly Brewed Herb 11. Continue making layered containing the following spices tied and roast, basting every 3 minutes, Tea (recipe follows) phyllo, lining and finishing the 1. Place the carrot, onion, and 2 with kitchen string for 10 minutes. Sprinkle on the 1/4 cup Sliced Scallion molds until you have completed 1/2 quarts cold water in a large 2 cinnamon sticks Herbed Bread Crumbs, lightly 2 Tbs Chopped Fresh Dill twelve. saucepan. 2 cloves pressing to make them adhere. 6 Sheets Frozen #10 Phyllo 12. Place the filled molds on the 2. Add the parsley with the pep- 2 allspice Roast for 5 minutes longer. Dough, thawed as directed on prepared baking sheet. Place in the percorns, allspice, cloves, garlic, METHOD: 7. Remove the lamb from the package preheated oven and bake for 15 to bay leaves, mint, thyme, cinnamon Take dried fruits and hydrate in oven and allow to rest for 15 min- 1. Heat 3 tablespoons of the 20 minutes, or until golden brown. stick, and fennel seeds. Mavrodaphne wine, adding utes before cutting the strings and olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan over Remove from the oven and set 3. Squeeze the lemon juice into enough water to cover let sit for 20 slicing for serving.

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Βυ Kathy Spiliotopoulos harvesting the fruits of their labors, using modern wine making tech- Executive V.P., Nestor Imports, Inc crushing the grapes, of course with niques. That is not to say that bar- their feet, and fermenting the juice rel wines have disappeared these Well more than 2,000 years ago, in the amphorae until the wine was can still be found in most village Hippocrates, the father of medicine ready. homes and in local tavernas, even taught: Greek winemaking flourished in Athens. Some of these home- “Wine is wonderfully wholesome through the fall of Rome under made wines taste a bit like a mix of for man in sickness and in health, Byzantium and continued under vinegar and sherry, others are quite provided that it is taken at the right the rules of Constantinople, but, quaffable. time and in the right quantity to suit Constantinople fell to the Ottoman In 1984, when Aristides and I individual needs.” Empire, and 500 years of domina- founded Nestor Imports, Inc., few The health and other virtues of tion by Islam, which forbade its fol- here in the USA were aware that moderate wine drinking have stood lowers to drink alcohol. However, Greece produced drinkable wines. the test of time, as we hear and Islam allowed wine to be made, be- To make matters worse, the word “cuisine” was not associated with Greek food. Greek restaurants, mostly located in ethnic enclaves, such as Astoria Queens, sometimes referred to as “Athens West” had limited lists of bargain priced wines, often with very short shelf lives. Most Greek wines were con- sumed in Greek-American homes and purchased from a liquor store or local Bakaliko (small grocery store) depending on state liquor laws. Meanwhile, as the French and Italians and other Europeans en- joyed a wine renaissance (those many years ago during the “dark ages” of Greek winemaking) they also enjoyed a surge of wine sales here in the USA. Wine drinking had become fashionable, Italian and French restaurants were flour- ishing, and expanding to cover re- A map of Greek wine trade in ancient times. gional cuisines, and so were their wines. The tens of millions of dol- read nearly every week in the news. cause it was great source of tax rev- lars that these and other European This has helped boost wine con- enue, just as it is today in the USA countries spent each year on adver- sumption in the USA, but not nec- at the federal, state and local levels. tising and promotion also had essarily helped increase consump- However, under Ottoman rule, much to do with the large volume tion of Greek wines. Kind of outra- travel was difficult, requiring a of sales. geous, when you think about the hard-to-get permit, and thus, wine Unfortunately, Greece could not facts that in ancient times the became a cottage industry. Monas- offer tens of millions of dollars to Greeks were the winemakers to the teries and village farmers main- promote Greek wines or foods world, and Greece was the birth- tained the vineyards throughout here, so Greek wine and food im- place of medicine! Why not, and Greece, with consumption mainly porters had to fend for themselves. what is happening with Greek limited to the wine maker and his Thus, it was in 1992, that Eric Photo of 17th century BC (Minoan period) wine press in Vathipetro, Crete, which has been preserved and wines in today’s world? local neighbors. Then came the Moscahlaidis, President of Krinos can be seen there today. Superimposed is a photo (actually part of a photo) of a 15th century BC (Minoan First, a little history: Greeks war for independence, 100 years Foods, founded the Greek Food and period) three-handled amphora in the palace style from Knossos, Crete. have been making wines for at least with a new Greek state that was Wine Institute, and convinced me, 6,000 years. It was the wine and bankrupt; after that a couple of my wine suppliers, and an array of wines and spirits. It is the Institute are now nearly 1,000 different la- foros winery in Egion, not far from olive oil trade that brought wealth world wars, followed by a bitter other Greek wineries and Greek that has long been credited with bels of Greek wine from about 90 Patras. Angelos, well-known for his and power to ancient Greece and civil war. food companies to join as mem- spurring popularity for Greek cui- different Greek wineries available Asprolithi Patras, made from the helped expand its empire. In fact As Greece was going through bers. The Greek Food and Wine In- sine that resulted in the opening of here in the USA. Not surprising native Roditis grape, has saved the Greeks planted many vineyards these two harsh centuries of histo- stitute, a not-for-profit association, dozens of fine, highly regarded when you consider that Greece has Lagorthi grape from extinction, throughout Europe including in ry, France, Italy, and other Euro- directs its efforts to North Ameri- Greek restaurants across the USA. more than 300 indigenous grape and produces a wonderful crisp southern France, Italy, Spain, Por- pean countries developed "wine can consumers, food and beverage We even helped create and edit a varietals, and at least as many white, with herbal notes from this tugal and other countries. cultures", cultivating vineyards that professionals, retailers, educators ten part Greek food and wine series wineries. The native Greeks have unusual grapes. Angelos also pro- Greece is credited with invent- in some cases had been planted by and journalists. The Institute’s goal on the Discovery Channel. It is the become much more sophisticated duces a wonderful Cabernet Sauvi- ing the first wine labels. The an- ancient Greeks. Poor Greece re- is to increase awareness of the emergence of Greek cuisine, served in their wine drinking over the last gnon, and other traditional blends, cients stored wine in clay pots mained in the wine making dark quality, variety, uses and healthful- in upscale restaurants that helped decades, and their wine production such as Chardonnay-Sauvignon called amphorae. Stamps of origin ages. As late as the 1960's and ear- ness of Greek foods, wines and spir- change the face of the Greek wine reflects this. Blanc and Merlot-Cabernet Sauvi- and type were fired into the vessels, ly 70's most Greek wine was not its. I am proud to be the Vice Presi- market here in the USA. Today, Greek wineries are producing gnon. Examples from other winer- the original appellation control sys- sold in bottles. Villagers and visi- dent of the Institute, a post I have more Greek wine is sold in restau- world-class, modern wines made ies can be found in the food and tem! This guaranteed the origin tors filled their jugs at the local gro- held now for fourteen years! rants than in liquor or grocery from ancient grapes, as well as wine pairing sidebar. Below is an (winemaker and location) of the cer, tavern or wine maker. Effec- During the 1990’s, the Institute stores. modern blends of ancient and “tra- array of modern Greek wines. wine, and also could include the tively Greece only started emerging was very active in conducting pro- Meanwhile, Greek wine quality ditional” grapes, and “traditional” Coverage in mainstream media grape variety – key elements of as a modern wine nation, in the motional and educational activities and variety was rapidly improving, wines such as cabernet, chardon- also reflects the evolution of Greek modern wine labels. 1970's. that were instrumental in awaken- garnering awards in many interna- nay, sauvignon blanc and merlot. wine over the past two decades. In Perhaps you can picture the an- Today, Greek wine making is ing the American public to the joys tional wine competitions around One example is Angelo Rouvalis, cient Greeks cultivating their vines, conducted by trained oenologists and high quality of Greek foods, the world. Believe it or not, there talented wine maker of the Oeno- Continued on page 11

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Thank you for your ongoing trust and support THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 7 Pairing Greek Wine with Food

Βυ Kathy Spiliotopoulos call for a light bodied white. Try Executive V.P., Nestor Imports, Inc Kouros Patras, made from Roditis grapes; a dry wine with delicate Now that Greek wines have pear-like fruit flavors. For more fat- come of age, here’s how to show ty fishes, a more full-bodied white them off at every course: is in order, such as Amethystos white or Micros Vorias Chardon- MEZE OR APPETIZERS nay-Sauvignon Blanc. Whether you’re going Greek Going vegetarian? If it’s a sa- with the likes of taramosalata, vory gemista, briam, a vegetable- melitzanosalata, grilled octopus, or rice timbale or even pasta, try a not, perhaps with canapé’s, bacon- lighter red from Crete made from wrapped chicken livers, stuffed Mandilaria and Kotsifali grapes, an mushrooms, clams Casino, or even un-oaked wine from Agiorgitiko buffalo wings, there is actually grapes, such as Calliga Rubis, or something in common for all of even a rose to match the sweetness these dishes. They are savory, fla- of the vegetables yet stand up to vorful and most contain a fair the savory taste. amount of oil, hopefully Greek Ex- The Story tra virgin. The spicier and more fla- DESSERTS AND CHEESES vorful the dish, the more full-bod- One might ask, why bother with ied should be the wine. dessert when you can sip a chilled of Retsina White wines will good acidity, to glass of Muscat from the island of cut the oiliness go best: Amethystos Samos. Nonetheless, Greece makes The ancient Greeks stored their white, made from Sauvignon blanc, some of the finest and most value- wine in clay pots, or amphorae, Assyrtiko and Semillon, has flavors priced dessert wines in the world, which they shipped allover the an- of tropical fruit and enough acidity Issidoros Arvanitis is an excellent high, then a “bone dry” wine is Sauvignon, try Oenoforos from the so for this section, suggestions are cient world. How then did the an- to work well. For spicier or oilier ap- choice. For those who like a bit called for. Try Micros Vorias Lagor- Peloponnese or Cava Amethystos for desserts that go with the two cients protect the wine from the air? petizers, try Micros Vorias Chardon- more strength, try Barbayanni thi, with its citrus flavors and nu- from Drama. Why fight? How most popular Greek dessert wines. How did they ship the wine across nay-Sauvignon Blanc, which has vi- Ouzo Blue or the most strong, ouzo ances of mountain herbs to compli- about a blend of both: Amethystos Samos Muscat: a simple plate of the seas without it sloshing out all brant acidity and lots of grapefruit Aphrodite, triple distilled for ment the salad dressing. A wine red blends Cabernet Sauvignon, fresh fruit, Manouri cheese drizzled over the decks? The answer is the and citrus flavors. Other Greek vari- smoothness. from Crete made from Vilana Merlot and the Greek Limnio. Mi- with Greek honey, Greek pastry, story of how Retsina came to be. etals to consider are Moscofilero grapes can work well with its green cros Vorias Merlot-Cabernet Sauvi- such as Baklava or Kataifi or Galak- from Mantinia and Assyrtiko from SOUPS apple flavors. gnon is unoaked but will work well, tobouriko, Greek Yogurt dressed Santorini; both are crisp and have Here is where you can ignore If the salad has some sweetness, too. with Greek honey and sprinkled either stony or mineral notes. the need to have a wine with every such as the beets or artichoke, try a Lamb: Those from the north of with chopped walnuts or pistachios For the traditionalists, or the course. After all, soup is a liquid. If rose. Amethystos rose made from Greece will insist on a Naoussa, and little squirt of lemon, French brave, this is the course where both you must, follow the guidelines for cabernet Sauvignon blended with a whether from Boutari, Tsantali or pastry, apple pie, a ripe pear accom- Retsina and Ouzo shine. Retsina, main courses. little merlot and Syrah is a good an elegant boutique such as Chriso- panied by goat cheese …. especially the more lightly resinat- choice with flavors of strawberries hoou. Those from the south of Mavrodaphne of Patras: any- ed, such as Retsina Kourtaki goes SALADS and cherries, and has enough acidi- Greece will in insist on a Nemea, thing chocolate, flavorful cheeses, very well with meze. OK, ouzo is Will it be a horiatiki or simply a ty to cope with the salad dressing. whether Kouros or the legion of cherries jubilee, pears poached in an anise based spirit not a wine, but salad of mixed greens with vinai- Of course there is the Grecian other Nemeas that have sprung up Mavrodaphne with a scoop of ice cannot be ignored when covering grette? How about a steamed arti- Roditis such as Apelia, which is in recent years. cream, karydopita, cherry pie …. meze, most especially if it comes choke, or a salad of beets and goat crisp and dry and will work well Light fish dishes such as floun- from Plomari, the only appellation cheese? with almost any salad. der, grilled shrimp, or even sushi Hungry yet? of origin for ouzo. The irrepress- If the level of acidity (e.g., vine- ible and luscious Ouzo Plomari by gar, lemon juice) in the salad is MAIN COURSES So much food; so little space! Kathy Spiliotopoulos First some rules of thumb, then some suggestions. Food and wine Kathy Spiliotopoulos is Vice President of the Greek Food and Wine are meant to compliment not fight Institute and Executive Vice President of Nestor Imports, Inc. The each other. If you are serving Greek Food and Wine Institute is a not-for profit educational and pro- To enable storage and travel and something delicate and light, a motional organization dedicated to increasing awareness of the avail- prevent oxidation (wine plus air light bodied white wine is in order. ability, healthfulness, and good taste of Greek cuisine, which includes plus time equals vinegar!), the an- If a savory stew is on the menu, a its foods, wines and spirits. Kathy has played a key role in launching cients sealed their amphora with a full-bodied red is the best choice. and growing the Institute since its inception in 1992. mix of plaster and pine resin. Likely The vast in between allows for a Nestor Imports, Inc. is a leading importer and distributor of Greek the ancients thought the resin to be wide range of choices. Here are alcoholic beverages. Kathy, and her husband, Aristides, founded a good idea, because they used it as some examples: Nestor Imports in 1984 and have built distribution to a network of a medicine to control high blood For Thanksgiving turkey try a more than 40 distributors across the country. Nestor Imports Greek pressure. Pine resin or tar is very medium bodied red, made from brands include: Amethystos, Apelia, Asprolithi, Calliga, Chateau Pe- aromatic, and its flavor seeped into Agiorgitiko grapes, such as Kouros gasus, Dimitra, Domaine Costa Lazaridi, Geromilos Farms, Kouros, the wine. Thus, Retsina was acci- Nemea, with fresh berry and plum Kourtakis, Melanas, and Oenoforos wines; Barbayanni and Aphrodite dentally created! This taste was as- flavors. If white is your passion, an ouzos, Idoniko Tsipouro (Greek Grappa), and Ouzounis specialty spir- sociated with properly stored wine, unoaked Chardonnay works well, its. and so has carried down through the such as Oenoforos from the Pelo- Kathy is a frequent and lively speaker, and has presented the glories generations as a traditional drink. ponnese or Chateau Julia from Dra- of Greek wines and cuisine at myriad events and seminars across the Even though modern day retsina is ma in the north of Greece. country, in Canada and in Greece. For a sample, please listen to her made in stainless steel tanks, and at A juicy grilled steak screams for Pod Cast, “Beyond Retsina” with David Kiley, Marketing Editor, Busi- its core is a very nice dry white wine, merlot, unless you are more fond of ness Week Magazine at the following link: made from Savatiano grapes, Greek cabernet sauvignon, which works http://www.businessweek.com/mediacenter/podcasts/personal_busi- winemakers must now add pine well, too. For merlot, try Chateau ness/david_kiley20050929.htm resin from the Aleppo tree to Julia from Drama. For Cabernet achieve the traditional taste.

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a b ask for Tommy Metropoulos 8 Greek Food & Wine THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006

impact, that Manousakis hired him as his consulting oenologist. Me- Recipe for Success thodically, Manousakis ensembled A Pioneer Of The Grrek Wine the ‘dream team’, by also recruiting By Fotios Stamos rapidly and he decided to make sev- viticulture consultant Lucie Morton eral trips to Napa Valley. These trips of Virginia and geologist Dr. Ives Industry: George Palivos The recipe for success in wine- to wine country in California ignited Herody of France, who analyzes the making according to Theodoros in Manousakis a passion for wine. terrain and soil of the vineyards. By Fotios Stamos wine, but in order to gain world Manousakis of the Nostos Winery is While creating his business em- Bruce Zoeklin, head of the Oenology wide recognition, George felt that creating the right team. After leav- pire, Manousakis continued to feel Department of Virginia Tech and lo- Pallez-vous Nemea? Yes, that’s experimenting with western vari- ing Greece at the age eleven, Mr. the desire to go back to his village in cal Cretan winemaker, Kostis Galanis exactly what is on the bottle of etals such as Chardonnay and Manousakis has returned to his Crete. “There’s a spiritual bond that completed the group. George Palivos’s latest release of his Cabernet Sauvignon was a necessi- stomping grounds in Crete, to pro- keeps pulling me back more and Now that Manousakis has put to- 2003 Palivou Nemea St. George ty. duce some of the best wines the re- more”, says Manousakis. After a se- gether a group that goes beyond his Red. Nestled in the heart of An- After years of developing grapes gion has to offer. ries of trips back to the village, satisfaction, he believes that apply- cient Nemea, George Palivos, a of superior quality, George was Upon settling in Washington Manousakis began renovating and ing a combination of ideologies will fourth generation winemaker has ready to move into the arena where D.C., Manousakis followed a path of expanding his family’s home, which carefully considered, after reviewing make this project work. “My philos- become one of the leading figures major players of the wine industry ongoing success. He acquired an included vineyards on the semi- Crete’s reliable microclimates along ophy in this venture is to apply a lit- in Greece’s wine industry, which is reside. His ticket into the U.S. mar- MBA from George Washington Uni- mountainous hillsides. Once the with the substantial elevations of his tle from the U.S. systems, the wine- making a presence worldwide. A ket came about when he bumped versity and from then on created an vineyards were in his possession, the vineyards. When asked, “Why making tradition of France, and my passion for winemaking that stems into Sam Katechis of Stellar Im- empire that today consists of a na- thought of getting the right team to French varietals”, Manousakis Greek background. Then you bring right from the vine, Palivos is ready ports at Oenorama, Greece’s largest tional security firm, restaurants, a create a winery began to stir in replied, “I feel that these are the together the essential elements in to take his wines to the next level. wine expo, in 2001. Mr. Katechis, chain of bakeries, and a property de- Manousakis’s head. According to most suited varietals for the condi- producing world class wines from Born and raised in Nemea, who has been in the importing velopment firm. His determination Manousakis, the success of this ven- tions in Crete”. Syrah and Grenache Greece”, says Manousakis. Appoint- George Palivos is one of only two business since 1990, read an article for success derives from experienc- ture is based on how well he coordi- have been previously planted by oth- ing specialists in their respected native Nemeans that produces about George Palivos in a food and ing very difficult times in Crete nates the right team with the right er growers in Crete to blend with lo- fields of winemaking will significant- wine. Currently, Nemea, the Napa wine magazine and was deter- growing up as a child and living in philosophy. “You are only as good as cal varietals. ly create better wine according to Valley of Greece, is flooded with mined to meet him. After tasting very poor conditions. “After living the team you ensemble” says The pieces slowly came together Manousakis. outside investors either building Palivos’s wines at Oenorama, Mr. through difficult times, it created the Manousakis. The results of wine- as Manousakis began to build his After planting his Rhone varietals wineries, buying grapes, or even Katechis was instantly convinced drive for a better life,” says making are based on several deter- team. On a bike trip to Burgundy in and creating his ‘dream team’, having wines exclusively produced that these wines have a place in the Manousakis. mining factors, such as the quality of 1990, Manousakis accidentally Manousakis decided to name his for them. George Palivos is the U.S. market, representing Greece’s Manousakis’s interest in wine be- the soil, the proper nourishment of bumped into Canadian born Pascal winery, Nostos. Taken from largest estate producer in Nemea, finest productions. gan at a very early age when he the vines, proper climate conditions Marchand, who greeted him from a Homer’s, “Odyssey”, Nostos, means he grows his own grapes, produces would watch his father make wine at and skillful winemakers. tractor with a bottle of wine, cheese, a yearning to return home, which his own wine, and bottles his own their family vineyard, just outside of While Manousakis began his hunt and bread. Marchand, who is fa- pinpoints the way Manousakis feels production on his property in order Crete in a village called Vatolakos. to enlist his crew of consultants for mous for his performance as a wine- about his passion to build a winery. to acquire the term ‘estate grown’ After opening several restaurants in his winery, he made the bold deci- maker at Burgundy’s Clos des Epe- Manousakis’s along with his group on his labels. the D.C. area during the 1970’s, his sion to plant Rhone varietals, such as neaux throughout the 1990s and developed a handful of world class The bond with winemaking for knowledge about wine and his ap- Syrah, Grenache, and Mouverde, in currently at Boisset’s Domaine de la George began from a very young preciation for it, began to grow his vineyards. The decision was Vougeraie, made such an immediate Continued on page 13 age while playing his father’s vine- yards. George is now in charge of the family run winery along with his wife Aggeliki. George strongly believes that in order to produce an high quality wine Talk Of The Vine: Greek Organic Wine you must have healthy vines that BY Fotios Stamos and many other parts of Europe. of time and labor, with a higher risk 1920s and introduced organic grape produce an excep- There are several different meth- of negative results. growing by allowing ladybugs to run tional grape. The new health trend that leans ods of organic grape growing being Some winemakers in Greece start freely throughout their vineyards to There are twenty Since toward ‘organically grown’ produce practiced in Greece, but first we off growing organically, but find protect their grapes. This method is hectares of vines their initial is taking over the craze for low fat need to understand what organic themselves half way through scram- still practiced today by the Lolonis that make up the meeting in 2001, and non-fat food items. As every wines are all about. According to bling to salvage grapes and vines winery. Due to the high quality of estate where George George Palivos and Sam trend has its own life span in its re- viticulturist George Palivos, it is im- with unnatural methods due to bad grapes, the Lolonis family has sup- Katechis have not only devel- spective market, the newcomer to possible for wine to be completely weather, insects, and mites. It is a plied reputable wineries such as oped a great business relation- this massive consumer jungle is the organic. “Wine can be produced very difficult process, since the risk Robert Mondavi, Fetzer, and Kendall ship but feel like they are family. organic product. Almost every retail from organic grapes,” he strongly factors are high and growers and Jackson with grapes. With Palivos’s persistence in mak- market you step into today will have adds. Subsequently, organic grapes winemakers depend on every grape John Pardalis, wine director and ing quality wine along with Kate- some significant aisle or section de- require a lot of attention and no in- grown, as yields are relatively lower general manager of Manhattan’s chis’s knowledge of the U.S. mar- voted to organic products. Farmers tervention. A grape grower must than in other countries. “If we culti- hottest new restaurant, Parea, al- ket, they are making a strong pres- and producers from the United spend endless hours in the vine- vated every vineyard organically, ways favors the anticipation of such ence in every major city. After ac- States and Europe are seeing the yards, protecting grapes by pruning and our harvest turned out bad, then pristine wines. Mr. Pardalis spends quiring numerous awards in tremendous demand for their organ- leaves and removing deadly weeds we would be in big trouble”, says Mr. numerous amounts of time develop- Greece and throughout Europe for ic products, and as a result grape without the use of chemicals and Mountrihas. Other winemakers de- ing one of the most exquisite wine his wines, Palivos has given the growers and winemakers have pesticides. Once a grower has suc- bate the fact that organic wine is lists that only features wine selec- spends most of his time making sure green light to his small team of jumped onboard for the ride. cessfully produced organic grapes, high in quality. They find quality lev- tions from Greece. Organic wine se- that each individual vine is treated young and passionate winemakers The classic saying of ‘history re- the following process is something els in organic grown grapes to be lections represent one third of his with quality care. There are several to experiment with his beloved peats itself’ is valid for the wine in- that a producer cannot avoid. The low. They also believe that because wine list and it continues to grow. As vital elements such as, soil, micro- grapes. dustry as well. The interest of allow- natural presence of sulfides in grape the yield of ‘healthy’ grapes is low, one of the authorities in represent- climate, and the slope of the vine- It has been said, that George ing nature to take its course with must, which act as antioxidants, are additives need to included to in- ing wines from Greece, John yard that have a tremendous impact Palivos produces one of the best viticulture is becoming surprisingly gradually lost during fermentation. crease the quality of the wine. Pardalis says, “Wine is made in the on the quality of each grape. Agiorgitikos. The trophy of his se- evident throughout Greece. On the Sulfides are then artificially replaced Santorini is one of the few areas vineyard, not in the winery. Allow- Palivos’s vineyards have the steep- lections is the 2003 Palivou Nemea, other-hand, organic grape growing to prevent wine from oxidizing and around the world that was never af- ing grapes to grow naturally without est slopes in Nemea, which allow produced from 100% Agiorgitiko in Greece has been traditionally spoiling. This crucial process dis- fected by phylloxera, an insect-born manipulation is a great challenge for rainwater to give just enough nutri- and aged in French Oak. A well- practiced in central and southern qualifies wine from being 100% or- disease that wiped out enormous the winemakers”. He strongly adds, tion to each vine. Many leveled balanced, full-bodied wine that has Greece for centuries. Since Greece’s ganic. amounts of vineyards throughout “The true character of a good wine- vineyards in the region have suf- rich aromas along with robust fla- wine industry has only recently been For the most part, growing organ- the centuries. Practically every win- maker is producing superior wine fered over-hydration due to heavy vors of cherry and other berries. internationally accepted, viticultur- ic grapes is a big step in producing ery produces organically grown from grapes of different qualities.” rainfall in the past. Palivos proudly Standing tall in the line-up of ists have been exercising organic pesticide-free wine. According to grapes, thanks to the sandy soil and One of Mr. Pardalis favorite wine- states, “We believe that winemak- Palivos’s wines is also his Palivou cultivation way before other coun- Apostolis Mountrihas, founder and high winds all year round that make makers is Manolis Moraitis from ing is an art, not a science. We set White Fox, produced from 100% tries began planting vines. oenologist of Avantis winery, “We it nearly impossible for insects and Paros, who produces one of the best out to create a grape that will make Alepou Roditis. Greece’s poor economy could not need to allow nature to grow the mites to survive. With nature on its organic selections from the Monem- a specific wine, taking full advan- This exceptional dry white wine assist farmers and growers until the grapes the way they were meant to side, Santorini is considered one of vasia grape varietals. tage of the soil and microclimate of is very fresh, crisp, and refreshing. last 15 years, before that they had no be grown”. Mr. Mountrihas believes the most organic grape growing re- The organic wine industry looks a given area.” It makes it ideal for sipping on a hot choice but to cultivate with organic that the continuous bombardment gions in the world. very promising for Greece, now that In 1995, George and his wife in- summer day in Greece or accompa- methods. Pesticides, heavy machin- on the planet’s soil by chemicals will In California, on the other hand, this practice is being acknowledged vested in building a brand new nied by traditional grilled fish and ery, and proper training were very produce major ecological problems organic grape growing has become a broadly. Many winemakers will con- winery and bottling plant near salads. You’ll also find a sassy scarce for farmers throughout the in the near future. He currently pro- science. Many winemakers in Cali- tinue this practice for many different their vineyards in Nemea, where Chardonnay and a tasty Rose in last century. Due to this dilemma, duces an organic white wine from fornia only produce organic grapes reasons, especially the traditional the varietals Aghiorgitiko (also Palivos’ portfolio. farmers continued cultivating with the roditis varietals. “Organic grow- with the investment of hard working factor. “This is how wine is meant to known as St. George, named after George Palivos is ‘today’s’ wine- traditional methods past down from ing requires spending a lot of time laborers in the vineyards. One of the be made”, says George Palivos. The the first Byzantine church built in maker of Greece. His passion and generations. In essence, these tradi- with nature and understanding how first pioneers of organic grape grow- saying goes what you put in is what the town) and Roditis mainly grow. love for grape growing and wine- tional methods of farming are now she behaves”, he adds. The only ing in California was actually the you get out, and in organic grape Palivos has mastered both varietals making keep him striving everyday common practice among many downfall to organic grape growing Lolonis family. The Lolonis family growing its passion, commitment, to the levels of quality that will to produce wine that people will farmers and producers in Greece in his opinion is that it requires a lot came over to the United States in the and understanding. match up to any international love to drink.

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conditions are near perfect, with The Mount bright summer sunshine, few rainfalls and coastal maritime breezes. Athos Metoxi This combination provides the perfect conditions for grape mat- uration, promoting ideal grape in the Spot Light constitution and excellent devel- opment of colour and aromas that n “open air” wine tasting event give birth to a truly 'grand vin'. took place recently on Mount Therefore it comes as no sur- AAthos. prise that the Metoxi was the ‘star’ Nine Master Sommeliers, guests of the tasting event. from “All About Greek Wine”, sampled The limited-release Metoxi is some of the best wines from Northern ready to captivate your heart: Greece, hosted by TSANTALI. Deep red in colour, a harmony The wine tasting was held on the of spices on top of complex fruit breathtaking Metoxi Chromitsa of notes. Intense and generous pres- Mount Athos. Amongst the plethora of ence of the Cabernet Sauvignon TSANTALI wines that the sommeliers combined with the velvety texture savoured, the very unique Metoxi that marks the Limnio variety. Ιm- wine, an offspring of Mount Athos it- pressive silky tannins and subtly self, captivated their attention. integrated barrique tones. The area’s unique ecosystem, iso- It is Tsantali’s precious gem, lated as it is from other cultivations, is with its most recent awards, the ideal setting for the practice of or- amongst its many others being ganic farming, which respects the bio- the “Les Citadelles du Vin” Gold diversity of the land. medal (2005) and the “Selections In this ideal vineyard the weather Mondiales” Gold medal (2004).

The intense rainfalls contributed to Tsantali revives The Divine Rapsani a slow but full maturity of the grapes. This in combination with the great temperature difference between day the Mavroudi from Mt. Olympus and night in the area gave the grapes a Grape rich aroma, colour and taste. he vineyards of Rapsani lie on the The 2006 Tsantali Rapsani VQPRD southern slopes of Mt. Olympus, from Mt. Olympus, a cuvee of The Tsantali Family true to its Tthe Mountain of the Gods, and Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavroto is philosophy and tradition of birthplace to the quality Rapsani wine. expected to have a deep red colour creating exceptional wines and Starting from the very beginning-the with a bouquet of concentrated rich with respect to the region’s and fine aromas, strong, intense, full microclimate and local traditions harvest- is the first omen that indicates what an exquisite wine the Tsantali body and the smoothness of healthy revives the Mavroudi grape and matured grapes. variety on its privately owned Rapsani is. vineyard in Thrace. 2006 can be considered as one of the Certain vineyard sites of the Maronia has been known for best years for the Rapsani area. The Rapsani region because of the soil, its viticulture and superb wine initial difficulties due to the cool and microclimate conditions and from the mythological times, rainy spring were overcome relatively cultivation techniques, have the ability where according to the legend, easy. to create superior grapes. the wine from Maronia was used A determining factor was the special If the growing season is perfect, by Odysseas, to aid him in his only the finest parcels are selected. escape from the Cyclops microclimate of the area, which is These grapes, under the guidance of Polyphemus by getting him tipsy protected from the north by Mount on Maronia wine. Olympus, while from the east it enjoys the expert winemakers, will give an the salutary breeze of the Aegean sea. outstanding wine, the 2006 Tsantali On Tsantali’s idyllic vineyard Rapsani Epilegmenos VQPRD; a truly site, the Mavroudi grape grows at These conditions have positively ‘RESERVE wine’. its best where it is naturally influenced the quality of the grapes, as cultivated in ideal conditions. they have caused a natural decrease in It must be matured for at least 12 The Mavroudi grape composes the grape load of vines, which in months in barrels and at least another the Tsantali Maronia Mavroudi, a combination with the weather conditions 12 months in bottles, reaching the wine with an inky red colour, an maturity of minimum 36 months intensive bouquet, velvety in obtained from the beginning of the summer and until the harvest, gave an before released to the wine lover for texture, rich in plum and cherry his enjoyment. flavours and a hint of oak on the unprecedented result. finish.

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Passaic Street Rochelle Park, NJ 07662 a b www.jckapas.com 201-845-3700 10 Greek Food & Wine THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 California Dreamin’: West Coast Greek Fusion By Paul Papadeas with its mild winters and dry sum- with locally made honey, sandwich- mers, making the soil prime for es with sliced avocado and juicy With the proliferation of corpo- grape growing to cultivate wines, tomatoes, grilled fish and poultry rate globalization, industrial farm- cheeses, herbs and vegetables, all with piquant citrus salsas.” ing and genetically engineered staples of a traditional Greek gas- This phenomenon has given rise seeds the cultivation of healthy tronomical feast. to something called fusion cuisine. gourmet delights has been sacri- California is the multicultural The idea behind fusion is to take in- ficed for low prices, convenience hub of the nation and the epicenter gredients from more than one cui- and unbridled profit. of America’s produce production. sine, mix them together and create Fast food chains, low grade su- Its cuisine is a vehement denuncia- something new. permarkets (that sell foods laden tion of processed food and a reluc- Although the most common fu- with pesticides and hormones) and tance to reproduce European culi- sion is between Chinese and Mexi- private wholesalers are the main nary cuisine at all times of the year can (think Thai burrito wraps) or choice for the working masses as by having to import from abroad. the next great concoction from they struggle everyday to make Californian cuisine means using celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, ends meet. The outcome for a ma- what’s fresh and in season. The Greek cuisine is slowly starting to jority of the population is a poor di- state produces a wide variety of make its way up the tier in the et, obesity and disease. fruits and vegetables from arti- American diet. However, when it comes to chokes, lemons, cabbage, carrots, For example, the Food Net- price, quality, abundance, ease of cauliflower, celery, lettuce, mush- work’s Cat Cora is a Greek Ameri- preparation and health – the rooms, potatoes, spinach, Chinese can chef from Mississippi, whose Mediterranean diet has proven to broccoli, Vietnamese mint, heir- cuisine is a blend of her Greek and be the best in the world and a possi- loom tomatoes, avocados, straw- Southern roots like her favorite dish Kota Kapama (Greek cinnamon chick- en), and slow-cooked Left to right: Helen Milukas, Lydia Barris (deceased), Carole Efthimiou, Dora Prieston, Helen Pappas (de- lamb shanks with feta ceased) Thedora Lourekas (deceased) Kathy Boulukos Chairperson, Athena Phillipides, Lydia Barris (de- salsa verde. ceased), Mary Mormanis, Epiphny Touris (deceased), Nina Bendo, Sandy Cidis, Maria Prois. Absent frim Moreover, she has al- picutre: Tina Barbatsuly, Ethel Whily, and Dede Yale Hirsh. Photographed in front of the Cathedral of St. so coined the term Hel- . Paul, Hempstead, NY soon after the publication of their last book: The Complete Book of Greek Cook- lasian, referring to a fu- ery”, Harper Collins. sion cuisine combining Greek and Asian cooking. And it’s no surprise that in Southern Califor- nia, Hollywood actors, A unique group of women: artists, everyday folks and culinary experts adore Greek cuisine or The Recipe Club of St Paul rather the Greek dining experience. So whether its By Katherine R. Boulukos the NY Times food editor, Craig the cooking world, there was strolling to Tony’s Tav- Chairperson, Recipe Club Claiborne reviewed it in the New greater emphasis on faster and more ern in Malibu for York Times, stating that it was the streamlined methods of prepara- celebrity site-seeing and Sheer determination and the be- best Greek cookbook published. tion. The women decided to test, Corfu inspired cuisine, lief that there was a real need to As a result of his praise, the book and retest all the recipes and select enjoying the wholesome preserve and record the traditional became an instant best seller. Then the best ones from their other books. familial feel of Pa- Greek recipes from our families mo- Doubleday and Co decided to pub- The result was this last book, “The padakis Tavern in San tivated a small group of women to lish that book as “The Art of Greek Complete Book of Greek Cooking”. ble solution. berries, olives, figs and peppers. Pedro, relaxing with the cosmopoli- write a Greek cookbook. The added Cookery”. That book quickly be- This book has been extremely popu- Studies in the 1950’s found that These ingredients allow one to tan Athenian style Ulysses Voyage incentive was that this would be a came their top ethnic cookbook sell- lar because of its straightforward, residents of the Greek island of recreate the world’s food, year in West Hollywood, adventuring to great way to raise money for their er, where it held a unique position simplified approach. It includes in- Crete had one of the lowest rates of round. The emphasis is on fresh- the iconoclastic Petros, a restaurant beloved church, St. Paul’s, in Hemp- for many years. Following the suc- formation about wines, spices, and heart disease in the world. And ac- ness, simplicity, and locality. Sara and lounge in Manhattan Beach or stead, NY. cess of that book, Doubleday want- includes a section about the tradi- cording to various researchers Moultan, host of COOKING LIVE visiting the famous deli Papa Chris- This drive formed The Recipe ed another follow up book, so the tions and holidays. The recipes have worldwide the Greek diet consist- says that “California was one of the tos in downtown Los Angeles, all of Club of St. Paul, a closed group of women wrote “The Regional been updated, streamlined, and ing of olive oil, feta cheese, vegeta- first places that you started seeing these establishments give one the seventeen women who made this Cuisines of Greece”. It was pub- written and tested with the idea that bles, beans, grains and fish is all those artisanal cheeses and sense of something unique; authen- decision over forty years ago! They lished with great success because it our Greek cuisine is not only deli- known to battle cancer. breads and olive oil. The emer- tic and healthy food, mixed with lo- were a committed group of women, explored regional cooking. It also cious, but healthy and easy to pre- In addition, common favorites gence of world-class California cal and fresh ingredients and pre- and through their efforts, they pub- took Greek cooking to a higher pare. such as souvlaki, gyros, spanakopi- wines in recent decades has in- pared with a certain laid back Cali- lished four books. They tested, lever, giving a more updated sophis- What is truly remarkable about ta and baklava are showing up at spired a constant search for the fornia flair. retested, and perfected the tradi- ticated approach to some of our the books is that fact that these sev- sit-down restaurants, mall eateries, best food to pair with it.” And don’t forget the bouzouki tional recipes from their families. dishes. One of the most popular enteen women have been together airports, and other locations She adds, “California cuisine is music! As a result of their efforts, they have recipes from that book was “Chick- for over decades. They are a unique throughout the country. And all about natural goodness, fresh- been able to give all their earnings en Breasts wrapped in Phyllo”. group of women, who have shared though considered fast food, these ness and lots of fruits and vegeta- Paul Papadeas is a Greek Ameri- to the church. Following that success, the and worked together in their love of delicacies make excellent alterna- bles: brick-oven pizzas on hand- can freelance writer and inde- The first book that was written women wanted to combine their their community, St. Paul, in Hemp- tives to burgers, hot dogs, nachos, tossed crusts with homemade fen- pendent filmmaker based out of was called “The Grecian Gourmet”. recipes in a new edition, with an eye stead. All the earnings from the egg rolls, tacos, French fries and nel sausage, mesclun salads with Los Angeles, CA. He is currently When it came out, there was no oth- on updating, and revising some of books, now over $500,000 to their doughnuts. herbs and toasted goat cheese, the Hollywood Correspondent er Greek cookbook in English on the the recipes to conform to the health- church. Sadly, five of the original Incidentally, California shares fresh breads from local bakeries, for M magazine, a Greek Canadi- market. It had the “old” family ier life style. In addition, since freez- members have died, but their mem- similarities to Greece in climate broiled Black Mission figs drizzled an publication. recipes, and it was so successful that ing and food processors were part of ory is immortal.

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subscribe to Mythos Restaurant The National Herald today Please enroll me as today 196-29 Northern Blvd. Flushing, NY 11358 a subscriber to via the post-office the National Herald (Across from St. Nicholas Church) ❑ 1 Month for $9.95 ❑ 3 Months for $19.95 Τel.: (718) 357 6596 ❑ 6 Months for $29.95 ❑ One Year for $59.85 ❑ ΤWO YEARS FOR $101.75 via home delivery (NY, NJ & CT) ❑ 1 Month for $12.95 ❑ 3 Months for $29.99 For all who love ❑ 6 Months for $43.99 ❑ One Year for $80.00 ❑ ΤWO YEARS FOR $136.00 Authentic Greek Cuisine via home delivery and good, healthy food For additional information (New England, Pennsylvania & Washington D.C.) EAT HEALTHY AT tel.: 718-784-5255 ❑ 1 Month for $15.95 ❑ 3 Months for $37.45 MYTHOS RESTAURANT fax: 718-472-0510 ❑ 6 Months for $51.75 ❑ One Year for $99.00 or email us at: ❑ ΤWO YEARS FOR $168.00 Our specialty: [email protected] for subscriptions via the post office Charcoal - Grill Fish or [email protected] On line Subscription www.thenationalherald.com for subscriptions via home delivery ❑ Non subscribers: ...... ❑ One Year for $29.95 ❑ One Month for $3.95 ❑ ❑ ❑ OPEN: 11:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m. Please specify method of payment Subscribers: ...... One Year for $19.95 One Month for $1.95 I enclosed a check/money order for $ ...... Name: ...... made payable to Τhe National Herald: Address:...... National Herald, Inc., 37-10 30th Street, Long Island City:...... State: ...... Zip: ...... For reservations Choose from our wide variety of excellent food well known for rich City, NY 11101-2614 Tel.: ...... Cell: ...... E-mail:...... or your social events, call us or please charge my: ❑ Mastercard ❑ Visa Please send a Gift Subscription to: mediterranean flavors and tradition of Greek culinary excellence with ❑ American Express ❑ Discover Name: ...... Address:...... Card number: ...... City:...... State: ...... Zip: ...... a b Catering available prompt and efficient service Expiration date: ...... Tel.: ...... Cell: ...... E-mail:...... Signature: ...... THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 11 Why Is Greek Food So Good For Your Health? Dr. Konstantinos Zarcardos Has The Answers

By Beverley MacDougall grown olive oil. 3. You can’t go very far in Greece We all like to look healthy and without seeing an olive or a grape feel good regardless of our biological branch. A glass of wine at dinner age. One of the most natural ways to keeps the heart going well. The look our best is to maintain a healthy studies say red wine is better than weight. None of this is rocket sci- white. ence; but the sheer fact that approxi- 4. A sense of pride for their mately 67% of all Americans are wine, their oil, their seafood, their obese means that the simple mes- fishermen and their farms, trans- sage of balancing a healthy weight lates into quality produce. through out our lifespan is not a goal 5. Portion sizes are also small in most of us will attain. We have been Greece. force fed facts by dieticians for years 6 Trans-fats are the enemy and on how to eat a healthy diet but ap- the Greek diet has very few of these parently given recent obesity statis- unhealthy fats. From left to right names and in parentheses, grape varietals (unless part of the name): Calliga Rubis (unoaked Agiorgitiko), Kouros Patras tics these messages have fallen upon 7. The family style atmosphere (Roditis - unoaked), Kouros Nemea (oak aged Agiorgitiko), Micros Vorias Lagorthi (described in the article - unoaked Lagorthi), Oenoforos deaf ears. Where can we turn to stop of everybody sharing is also a key Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak aged), Micros Vorias Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (unoaked), Amethystos white (unoaked blend of Sauvignon Blanc, this epidemic? component in the Mediterranean Assyrtiko, and Semillon), Amethystos red (oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Limnio), Kourtakis' dessert wines: Mavro- Obviously, there are no quick diet. It’s not my food it’s our food daphne of Patras (oak aged Mavrodaphne blended with a little Black Korinthiaki), and Samos Muscat (unoaked Muscat a Petits Grains). fixes to the malaises in our society on the table and everyone shares, that contribute to our heavy popu- which is inbred in all Greeks. lation; but Dr. Konstandinos 8. Greek mothers take pride in Zarcardos, a Bariatrics specialist in making their own food. Greek Queens, has some words of wisdom bread, for example, is healthy be- Modern Wines From Ancient Grapes to contribute to the great debate cause it is home made with the best raging over healthy food choices. ingredients. Dr. Zarcardos along with his part- So if we could all slow down a Continued from page 6 mindedness of Wine & Spirits that 80’s and early 90’s that Greece had tries. Wine & Spirits continues its ner run the most comprehencive little and get back to basics we will they worked with us to make sure such an array of delectable annual review of Greek wines. program in bariatrics in Queens. He enjoy better health. Attitudes of the mid-1980’s we worked closely that their summer Mediterranean cheeses? Today, Greek wines are also re- with major wine media, such as issue included Greece, not only for That bit of awareness produced viewed in Wine Spectator, Wine en- Wine & Spirits magazine to garner wines, but spirits, every Mediter- an interesting issue pairing thusiast, Food & Wine and many coverage for Greek wines. Back ranean country produces an anise- Mediterranean cheeses and wines others. Recently, our wines were then few were even willing to taste based spirit, for example, and of with each other, mixing and match- featured in a Business Week Maga- them. It is a testimony to the fair- course, food. Who knew in the late ing offerings from different coun- zine article, the first ever for Greek wines, along with a pod cast. [In- terested readers can find an “Eprint” of the article, and a link to the “Beyond Retsina” Special Edi- Gift Collections tion Pod cast at www.nestorimports.com by click- ing on “What’s New?”] The October by Boutaris 2006 Wine Enthusiast and the No- vember 30th Wine Spectator have This year’s Boutaris gift collec- extensive reviews of Greek wines. tion signs unique packages that We are really pleased that Kouros make impression with inspiration Nemea is a “Best Buy/Value” in and quality of life. both. The December 15th Wine To address this year’s wishes to Spectator will feature a Greek Wine partners, friends and clients, report. We’ve come a long way! Boutaris Group proposes its brand At long last, Greek wines are new Boutaris Gift Collection. coming out of the dark ages and in- Classic labels through elegant to the light. I look forward to the is the chief bariatrician of the New caring and sharing go into procur- and ingenius packaging with wine day when I can look at published York Bariatric and Laprascopic ing the freshest ingredients. What’s related objects that constitute the import statistics, and see “Greece” Group. on the table, how it is made, and ideal suggestion for every occasion stand proudly on its own instead of Rather than talking about what where it comes from, keep Greek and satisfy the high standards of being lumped into “other.” Sus- to avoid he explains why the Greek cooking on track as one of the our time. Quality and high value tained marketing efforts on the part culture and diet are so advanta- healthiest in the world. gifts, in a wide range of prices, full of us importers, combined with ed- geous to your health. Dr. Zarkadas’ reasons for why of colors, tastes, aromas and lot of ucational efforts by the Greek Food Here are some of the top rea- Greek food is so healthy seem to imagination. Boutaris. accompanied with a bottle- and Wine Institute, and a little help sons according to Dr. Zarcardos for resonate back to the ancient Greeks Papyrus - Original package, Proposis - Minimal design in a corkscrew of exceptional style and from the Greek government, which why Greek cuisine is so healthy. who believed in everything in mod- with fine leather lacing, made en- package with valuable content. design and a silver-plated base. has launched a wide-scale promo- 1. Because of the Greek life style eration was key to a healthy life tirely in hand by specially crafted Two wines from the privately Sweet Temptation - The tional campaign, “Kerasma,” will Greeks classically love fish, broiled style. So, with all the wonderful natural wood, wraps elegantly two owned Boutaris vineyard in Crete, Boutaris Vinsanto in a black, luxuri- help to bring Greek wines, and with vegetables.` holidays ahead of us in the next few bottles of Boutaris wine. It is rec- awarded with gold medals, ous one bottle-package, along with foods and spirits, for that matter in- 2. Greeks love to use olive oil. weeks let’s keep in mind their wise ommended with «Odi» and «Ilida» «Skalani» and «Fantaxometoho», two vin de liqueur glasses. to the mainstream. They are proud of their home- words too.

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Marilyn Sue Rouvelas, author of sing it for you?"). (The question is house makes the sign of the cross this time. A Guide to Greek Traditions and asked so that songs will not be sung on the bread with a knife while say- Customs in America, has kindly giv- at a house in mourning.) Some chil- ing, "In the name of the Father, the VASILOPITA en permission to The National Her- dren carry small ships of cardboard, Son, and the Holy Spirit," and then The most popular New Year's ald to print some excerpts from her wood, or tin in honor of St. Basil cuts a piece for each person with a custom is the cutting of the Vasilo- book. Along with the Christopsomo who came to Greece by sea from his wish of "Kala Christouyena" ("Good pita (bread for St. Basil). Everyone and Vasilopita recipes Marilyn Rou- home in Caesarea to bring presents Christmas") or "Chronia polla" hopes to get the lucky coin baked velas clearly underlines the tradi- to the children. Decorated with the ("Many years"). (See recipe below) inside the pita. tions and customs behind the Greek flag and the word "Ellas," the In Cyprus, special bread and Christmas and New Year Festivities. ships hold the sweets and money pastries covered with sesame seeds LEGEND OF THE VASILOPITA given to each caroler at the end of and a cross on top are prepared. For The Vasilopita commemorates a CHRISTMAS, NEWYEAR, AND the kalanda. Sometimes the chil- blessings on the house one will be miracle performed by St. Basil EPIPHANY (DODECAMERON) dren are welcomed into the house hung from the beam of a ceiling or while serving as a bishop. The leg- DECEMBER 25. JANUARY 1, AND for treats. In America, this is a popu- maybe in front of the home ikonos- end varies as to how St. Basil be- JANUARY 6 lar activity for Greek school stu- tasi through Christmas or New came the guardian of the gold, sil- The Greek Orthodox combine dents. Year's Day. ver, and jewelry of the people of the holidays of Christmas, New Caesarea. Some say thieves had Year, and Epiphany into a period SWEETS CHRLSTOPSOMO OR taken the valuables from the vil- called the Dodecameron (twelve The most traditional Christmas KOULOURA TOU CHRISTOU lage, and they were recovered. Oth- days - pron. thothecameron). The cookies are the white, powdery Make a half recipe of Easter ers say it was a tax the government period starts with Christmas on De- kourabiethes and the rich, brown bread (see Tsoureki below). asked St. Basil to collect, but then cember 25 and ends January 6 with melomakarona. The cloves in the decided to cancel. In either case, St. Epiphany. Once Christmas starts, kourabtethes represent the spices TSOUREKI Basil became responsible for re- the season is one of continuous cel- of the wise men. 2 envelopes dry yeast turning the riches to the people. ebration (except for one day of fast- 1&1/2 cups whole milk However, they could not agree on ing in January), to commemorate CHRISTMAS BREAD 1 tablespoon sugar the rightful owners. St. Basil sug- some of the year's most important (CHRLSTOPSOMO) 2 teaspoons of machlepi gested that the women bake the holidays. Christmas bread (Christopsomo 1/3 cup of warm water valuables inside a large pita. When - pron. Christopsomo) or kouloura 1/2 scant teaspoon of crushed he cut the pita, each owner miracu- CHRISTMAS FOOD tou Christou (round bread of masticha lously received the right valuable. AND FESTIVITIES Christ) graces the Christmas table. 1 cup of unsalted butter Today a single coin is baked inside THE KALANDA It is usually a round loaf often 5 eggs each loaf to honor this miracle, and On Christmas Eve Day in Greece, made with the same ingredients as 1& 1/2 cups of sugar the recipient has good luck for the young people, carrying triangles, Easter bread. Nuts and dried fruits 9-10 cups flour coming year. small drums, and harmonicas, go in may be added. Some families at- groups from house to house, singing tend church on Christmas Eve and Mix yeast and 1 tablespoon of CUTTING THE VASILOPITA the kalanda (carols) about the birth return home for a meal that begins sugar in slightly warm water in a Greek Americans enjoy Vasilopi- of Christ. (See "Kalanda Chris- with the cutting of the Christopso- large cup. Cover, put in a warm ta for most of the month of January. touyennon" below) Before singing mo by the head of the household. place for 10-15 minutes until yeast They cut the first pita at midnight the children ask the traditional Others wait until a main meal on activates (becomes bubbly). Warm on New Year's Eve and repeat the question, “Na ta poume?" ("May we Christmas Day. The head of the the butter, sugar, milk, machlepi, ritual at social occasions and com- and masticha in a pan until the but- munity functions throughout the ter melts and sugar dissolves. Cool. first half of January. Before the cut- Beat 4 eggs until foamy. Put 2 cups ting, everyone sings the kalanda of flour in a large bowl Add cooled (“Kalanda Protochronias") an- R E S T A U R A N T butter mixture, yeast, and eggs and nouncing the new year and St. Tselementes’ “Greek Cookery” stir thoroughly. Add most of the re- Basil. 34-21 34 Avenue, Astoria, NY maining flour. While dough is still A short poem popular in Con- (718) 626-0303 A Christmas gift sticky, add 1 unbeaten egg. Contin- stantinople may also be said by one ue to add flour until dough is very of the children: • Traditional Regional Food to be remembered all year round soft hut no longer sticky. Knead I take the knife and put it in my fa- dough about 10 minutes. Put in a ther's hand, • Wines and Tsikoudia lightly greased bowl, cover with a So he can cut the Vasilopita and give • Ancient recepies damp cloth, and let rise in a warm one slice to me! place for about 2 hours. When dou- The head of the household bled, punch down the dough and makes the sign of the cross on the An unforgetable experience divide into four balls. For each ball: pita with a knife while saying, "In form three ropes the length of a the name of the Father, the Son, cookie sheet. Braid the three ropes and the Holy Spirit, Amen." Pi~ces on a greased cookie sheet. Squeeze are cut in a specific order. Protocol the ends together so they do not varies, but the first piece is always separate. (For a round loaf, braid for Christ. It should be wrapped the bread and coil in a 9" round and placed in the home ikonostasi. cake pan.) Bake at 350"F for 40-45 The second and third pieces are Serving Meltemi minutes or until bread browns. Re- usually for the Virgin Mary and St. duce heal to 250'F and bake until Basil, and the fourth for the puor. Greek food Restaurant bread sounds hollow when tapped. The head of the house receives the Makes four medium loaves. next piece and the rest of the family at it’s best 905 First Ave, New York, NY Note: The spices, machlepi and according to their ages, including (212) 355-4040 masticha, found in specialty stores those members who are not at or gourmet shops, give the bread its home. Then pieces should be cut $ .95 unique flavor. Machlepi is a ground for guests according to their place Open daily for lunch & dinner • Prefix dinner 23 seed from Syria. Masticha comes of honor, mentioning those of high- from the sap of the mastichodendro est esteem first. The person cutting - Shipping and handling additional - bush grown primarily on the Greek the Vasilopita wishes each recipi- island of Chios and used in the pro- ent, "Chronia polla" ("Many years") Look for it at your local Greek stores duction of gum. The translucent, or "Kali chronia" ("Good year"), light yellow chunks of masticha while distributing each piece. Gn For all your Residential / Commercial Divry’s Publishing must be crushed to powder before Greece a little Vasilopita and other Plumbing & Heating needs call: use. Greeks generally use the word food may be left out for St. Basil "tsoureki" for Easter bread. The just as Americans leave food for word "Lambropsomo" refers to the Santa. St. Basil visits each house on Chris Sidiropoulos bright (lamhro) light of the Resur- his name day, January 1, to bring Expand rection, and "psomi" means "bread." gifts to the children.) the At a public Vasilopita obser- Greek experienced plumber your mind... ADD: TO THE EASTER BREAD vance, Christ, Mary, St. Basil, and THE FOLLOWING TO MAKE the poor are recognized before the CHRISTOPSOMO members of the community. Then The National Herald Bookstore 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts those of highest esteem are men- (718) 784-5255 [email protected] 3/4 cup chopped walnuts or tioned, such as the archbishop, blanched almonds priest's wife, presidents of the 1 cup golden raisins parish council and Philoptochos, 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots and other dignitaries.

Soak dried fruit for one hour VASILOPITA (BREAD OR CAKE) and drain. (Candied fruit may be Vasilopita may be either a bread substituted.) Follow Easter bread or a cake, depending on the region recipe, adding the fruit, nuts, and of Greece from which your family extra flour if needed. Shape into originated. Some regions use the one ball for a greased 14" round recipe for Easter bread but deco- (610) 905-2328 cake pan or form two balls for two rate the top differently. Others greased 8" round cake pans. Omit make a rich, sweet cake. All ver- the red eggs and decorate with sions are round and include a lucky Fast & Reliable Service sesame seeds or sliced blanched al- coin. Arrange greens, nuts, and monds and/ or a cross made of fruit (fresh and dried) around the dough. loaf or cake.

NEW YEAR'S DAY VASILOPITA (BREAD) CHURCH SERVICES Make a half recipe of Easter The church celebrates two spe- bread (see Easter Season). Shape

a b PA License #3951 cial events on January 1: The Cir- into one ball for a greased 14" cumcision of Christ and the Feast round pan or two smaller balls for Day of St. Basil. two greased R" round pans. Hide a coin somewhere in the dough. CIRCUMCISION OF CHRIST Omit the red eggs, and decorate As a member of the Jewish reli- with blanched almonds or strands gion, Christ was circumcised on the of dough spelling out the year. eighth day after his birth and given his name. This important event is VASILOPITA (CAKE) commemorated in a church service. 1 cup regular butter "And at the end of eight days, when 1 cup milk (room temperature) he was circumcised, he was called 2 cups sugar Jesus, the name given him by the 1 cup crushed almonds angel ... " Luke 2:21 7 eggs separated 1 tablespoon machlepi FEAST DAY OF 1 tsp almond extract ST. BASIL THE GREAT 1 scant teaspoon masticha The Orthodox observe the name 2 tsps vanilla day of St. Basil The Great on Janu- 1/4 cup slivered almonds (top) ary 1 with a Divine Liturgy written 3cups flour sifted by him. St. Basil, widely honored 1 coin and revered, is one of the three 3 tablespoon baking powder great church hierarchs. Cream butter and sugar for ten NEW YEAR minutes. Add egg yolks and f1avor- NEW YEAR'S EVE CARD PARTIES ings. Add remaining ingredients, Greek Americans love to party alternating milk with the flour. Fold and play cards on New Year's Eve. It in stiffly beaten egg whites until is said that you sample your luck blended. Grease and flour a 14" for the coming year on the last day round cake pan or two 8" round of the old. Card playing may follow cake pans. Insert coin in batter and a dinner party or just he combined sprinkle top with crushed almonds with coffee and sweets, especially or slivers. Bake in 350'F oven for 45 loukoumathes. Generally, just be- minutes. Cake is ready when an in- fore midnight the lights are turned serted toothpick removes cleanly. If out and then turned on again at more baking is required, put alu- twelve to shouts of "Kali Chronia" minum foil lightly over the top to ("Good year"), "Happy New Year," prevent burning and continue bak- and "Chronia polla" ("Many years") ing. Makes one large pita or two It is customary to cut a Vasilopita at small. THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 13

also a spice and has always been tomato-based sauces, with fish, used as such, from ancient Greek poultry, lamp, pork and more, in About Chios Mastiha cooking to modern times. In the wine sauces, paired with traditional Greek kitchen it is a chocolate, lemon, other citrus, subtle, mysterious addition to berries, and more. f all the exotic, aromatic breads, pastries, cream based Chios Mastiha, in other words, spices in the world, desserts and puddings, and ice is not only used in the medicine none is quite like Chios creams. It has long been used to chest but also in the kitchen Mastiha, the resinous, flavor distilled alcoholic O cupboard, an extremely versatile, crystal granules that come from beverages. In the contemporary unusual, exotic spice that splicing open a particular tree, Greek kitchen it is an ingredient enhances just about everything it Pistacia Lentiscus, at specific that haw captured chefs’ seasons. times of the year and letting its imaginations in a big way, in sap flow like slow motion tears to the ground, to be collected, sorted, cleaned, and sold the world over. Chios Mastiha, which most Mastic-flavored Almond Cake people might know as gum- mastic, is a unique, appellation- of-origin product that is produced Yield: one TK-round cake only on the island of Chios, in the 250 gr. (8 ounces) blanched almonds Eastern Aegean. 225 gr. (7 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter It is a spice with a dual 250 gr. (8 ounces) confectioner’s sugar personality: Since antiquity it has 5 gr. (2 ounces) mastic crystals, crushed with a pinch of sugar in a mortar been renowned for its therapeutic 4 medium eggs values; recent scientific research 150 gr. (5 ounces) all-purpose flour has corroborated that Greek folk medicine has always held true, 1. Finely grind the almonds at high speed in a food processor. 2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip together the butter, sugar, mas- that Chios Mastiha is salutary for tic and almonds until fluffy and white. Add the eggs one at a time, beating all sorts of stomach aliments, after each addition. including ulcers, and that 3. Add the flour, mixing it in with a spatula or large spoon. Cover the chewing it (it is, after all, a bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2-3 hours. natural gum) is good for the 4. Preheat oven to 170C (350F). Pour the batter into a 24-cm (10-inch) gums and teeth. round buttered cake pan. Bake for 30 minutes, reduce oven temperature to 160C (325F) and continue baking another half hour, or until a knife in- Chios Mastiha, of course, is serted in the cake’s center comes out clean. Remembering Great Greek Americans: Tom Carvel

Tom Carvel was the personifica- ieland band to an auto test driver for for business. Two years later, Tom only his machinery, but his expertise tion of the American dream. Once Studebakers, Carvel was incorrectly bought the pottery store, converted it as well. For a flat fee and a percent- known as the “patriarch of the diagnosed with fatal tuberculosis and into a roadside stand, and perma- age of the profits, Carvel began world’s biggest mom and pop ice fled to the country air of Westchester, nently establish himself as the first re- teaching independent storeowners cream parlor,” he was a man who New York. Borrowing $15 from his tailer to develop and market soft ice the ropes and allowed them to mar- wasn’t afraid of hard work and did future wife Agnes, Tom began selling cream. ket ice cream under the Carvel name. what it took to make his “rags to rich- ice cream from his battered truck. With the coming of World War II, In 1947, Carvel cultivated this rela- es” story come true. He had an en- Memorial Day weekend of 1934, Carvel was sent to Fort Bragg, N.C., tively unknown idea called franchis- gaging manner, twinkling blue eyes, Tom’s truck suffered a flat tire so he where he served as a refrigeration ing, and opened 25 stores by the ear- neatly trimmed handlebar mustache, pulled his trailer into a parking lot consultant and concessionaire. This ly 1950’s. and a friendly face. But he was a next to a pottery store and began sell- experience allowed Carvel to im- Often referred to as the “father of tough and honest businessman who ing his melting ice cream to vacation- prove his ice cream freezer and team franchising,” many of Carvel’s mar- demanded only the best from those ers driving by. Within two days, Tom it with a specially formulated liquid keting concepts have been emulated who worked with him. had sold his entire supply of ice ice cream made with the freshest in- not only in franchising, but in almost Thomas A. Carvelas (1906-1990) cream, and realized that he could gredients to create the high quality every industry. Perhaps he is most fa- was brought to the United States as a make a lot more money working product we know today. mous for his voice as heard in many child from his native Greece. At the from a fixed location. The generous As Carvel began selling his patent- unrehearsed television and radio age of 26, after a variety of careers potter allowed Tom to hook into his ed machinery to other stores, he spots. Advertising historians agree that ranged from a drummer in a Dix- store’s electricity, and Tom opened quickly realized that he could sell not this voice, once described as a cross

cream machine 1989 Sells to Investcorp, an international in- Carvel's History 1947 Patents all-glass front building with vestment bank FROM THE ARCHIVES OF THE GREEK MUSEUM, THE CENTER FOR GREEK AMERICAN HERITAGE pitched roof; later copied by McDonalds 1990 Tom Carvel passes away in his sleep between the marble-mouthed gravel dies included Bob Hope, Perry Como Timeline 1947 First to franchise a retail ice cream store 1991 Relocates to Farmington, Connecticut of Marlon Brando’s character in the and Jackie Gleason. Even with his in the U.S. 1992 Begins Direct Sales Delivery (DSD) Su- Godfather and the lovable, cowardly celebrity status, Tom Carvel re- 1949 Begins franchisee training seminar, permarket Branded Freezer Market Program lion in the Wizard of Oz, was key to mained down-to-earth, personable 1906 Thomas A. Carvelas was born in Athens, Carvel College of Ice Cream Knowledge (fran- 1993 Develops multi-pronged distribution both the growth of the company as and ultimately became one of our Greece on July 14th chisees affectionately refer to it as Sundae business model including retail shops, stadi- well as the brand’s loyal following. country’s most beloved icons, repre- 1910 Tom Carvel was brought to New York School) ums, super club stores and supermarkets The ads attained him regional senting the all-American dream with City by his parents 1950 Tom Carvel creates most complete fran- 1998 •Places Carvel branded freezers in celebrity status and his golfing bud- the most all-American of foods. 1929 After borrowing $15 from his future chise contract in industry; only franchise con- 4,500 supermarkets wife, Agnes Stewart, Tom Carvel began his tract to survive the FTC and US Supreme Court • Introduces Lil’ Love cakes company by selling ice cream from the back of 1951 First in the industry with a round ice 2001 Sells to Roark Capital Group, a private his mobile truck cream sandwich, the Flying Saucer equity firm 1934 Nation’s first retail ice cream company 1953 Opens first prefabricated ice cream store 2002 •Relocates supermarket headquarters starts when Tom Carvel’s vending truck suffers in Glastonbury, CT to Rocky Hill, CT a flat tire in Hartsdale, NY during Memorial 1954 First in the industry with the gift certifi- • Relocates franchise headquarters to Day Weekend, and he begins selling his melt- cate concept Atlanta, GA ing ice cream from his broken down truck? 1954 Holds the first annual “Little Miss Half • Sets Guiness World Record for Largest 1935 Begins manufacturing equipment for sale Pint” beauty pageant for children under the Ice Cream Scoop Pyramid to the ice cream industry age of six; 15,000 entries received annually 2003 •Introduces 98% Fat Free Flying 1936 Forms Carvel Corporation 1955 •First in the industry with a line of ice Saucers, Uptown Smoothies, and Slice 1936 • Opens first store on site of broken cream vending vehicles Mmm’s down truck • First to use CEO in radio and TV com- • Opens new store prototype in Vero • Patents “no air pump” super-low tem- mercials Beach, FL perature ice cream machine 1956 Introduces the first ice cream supermar- 2004 •Celebrates 70th Birthday by setting • Develops secret soft serve ice cream ket on the site of original Hartsdale, NY store Guinness World Record for the Largest Ice formula 1969 First in industry to develop complete line Cream Cake • First to introduce the marketing con- of all-Kosher products • 2004 FOCUS Brands is created; Carvel cept “Buy One Get One Free” 1972 First in industry to introduce Lo-Yo joins Cinnabon and Seattle’s Best Cof- 1937 Tom Carvel marries Agnes Stewart frozen yogurt and Thinny-Thin frozen dietary fee International to form new food 1939 Tom Carvel builds the first soft serve ice desserts service company

ultimately rich in flavors, a soft ment with the level of quality, thanks Recipe for Grenache that has a subtle balance to Mr. Manousakis’s determination of vanilla and cocoa, and also a Rou- for a world-class operation. Success sanne that releases floral aromas Manousakis proudly states: “I con- along with a tint of sweetness on the sider myself as the coordinator. I Continued from page 8 finish that makes this white an amaz- bring everything together, making ing food wine. the best out of what I have. I take wines that include: a robust blend Mr. Manousakis and his team everything and make it the best”. called Nostos red, which is produced have to be one of the most sophisti- Manousakis has a proven record and from Syrah, Grenache, and Mou- cated groups in Greece’s wine indus- a golden touch and his efforts have verde, a sophisticated Syrah that is try. They are making a huge state- made Greek wines world class.

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By Dimitrios Krallis trol trade with Bulgaria, honey be- prise. For the bakeries of Constan- ing a significant part of it, led to tinople to produce the 80,000 loafs Any exploration of Byzantine Bulgarian mobilization and to hos- distributed daily to the people of food has to be based on a myriad of tilities. the city, the farmers of Egypt had to different pieces of information Yet, while Byzantium was using produce a surplus, which they buried in a multitude of sources. Greek ingredients in its plates, its shipped on large fleets to the capi- Like ciphers from a mosaic little tit- cuisine was at the same time much tal. Even in later days when Egypt bits from history, hagiography, im- more than Greek. Byzantium was was no longer part of the empire, perial ceremonial manuals, monas- the legitimate heir to the Roman feeding the capital was a major en- tic charters, comic poetry and even Empire and as such it traded with terprise. The Constantinopolitans laws allow us to reconstitute the the world in what was an earlier could count on a steady diet of tastes that excited the Byzantine version of globalization. The fat goat, of which he himself had bread, fish, much of it cured and palate. Byzantine emperors placed the partaken, deliciously stuffed with preserved in salt, and olive oil. To learn about Byzantine cuisine spice sellers with their cinnamon, garlic, onions and leeks; steeped in However, just like in contemporary we need to discuss its roots in histo- nutmeg and other aromas just un- fish sauce: a dish which I could Greece or Turkey, this diet was sup- ry and geography. Byzantine cui- der the windows of the imperial have wished just then to be upon plemented by vegetables that were sine was a mix of local Greek prac- palace so they could get a whiff of your table, so that you who do not produced in small gardens kept in tices and Roman traditions. We scented breeze every time the wind believe the delicacies of the sacred the capital, in the smaller cities and need to emphasize the Roman as- blew in their direction. Constan- emperor to be desirable, should at in every village. The city of Con- pect of the cuisine, for our tenden- tinople, as the medieval Gotham length become believers at this stantinople had such a large space cy is to assume that Byzantine food that it was, imported everything sight! enclosed by its walls that most of its is automatically Greek. That was that was to excite the discerning For those used to contemporary vegetables were produced locally. only the case in the realm of mate- palate. Caviar was to be sampled Greek cuisine the use of fish sauce The great delicacies of the capi- rials and even there the imprint of next the famous garum sauce of the on meat may appear odd. Yet it is a tal were then, as they are today, its Rome was significant. Byzantine Romans. This latter product was central part of Chinese cuisine and fish. Surviving Byzantine laws ex- culinary tastes, originating in the made of fermented fish entrails, was not shunned by the Romans. plain in detail the rights and obliga- regions where Hellenism flour- gills and blood. The average Byzan- As for the centerpiece in Liud- tions of Byzantine fishermen. On ished, were, in terms of its ingredi- tine table had a special container prand’s meal, it was goat. Goat, the literary level, the satirical po- ents, indeed Greek. Cheeses, figs, for garum soup or sauce and it lamb, fish of all sorts were delica- ems of Theodore Prodromos in the 12th century castigate the not so Mini Pumpkin stuffed with abstemious monks for gorging themselves with fat Bosporus catch cooked in sumptuous sauces, called Lobster and Hilopites Pasta Sabourai (from the Latin Sapor). Our evidence does not allow us to reconstruct Byzantine dishes. SERVES 4 What we may, however, note is that parts of the Byzantine cooking tra- INGREDIENTS: dition survives in today’s Turkish 4 1/2 lb small pumpkins and Greek cuisine. A sixth century 1 cup water pre-Islamic Arab source refers to 4 tsp butter stuffed zucchini and grape leaves salt and fresh ground white pepper as a quintessentially Greek dish. to taste Today we associate these dishes with the cooking traditions brought PUMPKIN PREPARATION: back to the meat-eating Greeks of Cut the top of the each pumpkin the Greek mainland by the refugees and spoon out all the seeds. Rub from Asia Minor. It seems they the inside of pumpkin with room were Greek. On the other hand, it temperature butter and salt and seems that the heavy, walnut, al- white pepper. Place the pumpkins mond and philo-pastry deserts we upside down in a 6”x10” pan with eat in both Greece and Turkey have one cup of water. Bake in a 450 de- a Persian origin. This, however, gree oven for 15 minutes. Remove Thalassa executive chef Gregory does not mean that they were not and set aside. Zapantis. appreciated in the Byzantine court. An imperial court was open to LOBSTER AND PASTA STUFFING roasting pan, sauté the lobster in many tastes after all. INGREDIENTS: the extra virgin olive oil for 4-5 Photo of a Byzantine fish grill. Our reconstruction of Byzantine 2 lobsters (2 1/2 -3 lb each) minutes. Add the diced shallots and cuisine is like the restoration of a 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil sliced garlic. Stir for an additional eggs, olive oil, walnuts, almonds, seems that garum was poured on cies to be sampled by the upper damaged mosaic. A lot of ciphers 2 pc shallots, peeled and diced 3-4 minutes. Deglaze the roasting chestnuts, apples, of the sweet and all sorts of foods. strata of society. The poorer people are missing and a lot needs to be 2 pc garlic cloves, sliced pan with the wine and add the wa- bitter variety, as well as pears, all When Liudprand of Cremona, would be content with boiled food. left to imagination. Yet, the lands of 1/2 cup sun dried tomatoes cut ter and sun dried tomato strips. constituted staples, which were in- an ambassador for the German Onions and basic herbs turned into Greece and Turkey, the aromas of into strips Bring to boil. Adjust the seasoning digenous to the lands of the empire king Otto II visited Constantinople a broth and served in bowls filled the ingredients they produce and 1 cup white wine with salt and freshly ground white and appreciated by emperor and he produced what was a critical re- with bread. Beef on the other hand the living traditions of their food ul- 2 cups water pepper. Add the hilopites pasta and aristocracy as well as the common port on the meals offered to him by was in general rare in Byzantium, timately connect us with the reali- salt and fresh ground white place the roasting pan in a 400 de- people. the emperor. Overall Luidprand, yet if you were a rancher in the ties of Byzantine food. pepper to taste gree oven for 25-30 minutes. After The Byzantines also loved honey probably used to the more northern Anatolian plateau you would taste 1lb hilopites pasta removing the pan from the oven, and used it in cooking as a sweeten- butter based cuisine, felt that a proper T-bone stake. Dimitri Krallis is Assistant pro- put it aside for 10 minutes. Remove er, especially given that sugar was Byzantine dishes were swimming Bread was an essential staple of fessor of Byzantine History at PREPARATION: the lobster meat from its shell and not available. Honey was even one in olive oil. On one occasion, how- the Byzantine table and a guaran- SFU. He has been sampling Cut your two lobsters length- cut into chunks. Fill the mini pump- of he causes of a war with Bulgaria ever, Liudprand noted: tee of stability for the government Byzantine texts and historical wise and remove the grain sack. kins with the lobster meat and pas- in late ninth century when the de- [The emperor sent] to me from in Constantinople. Bread in the ear- sources for the past 14 years, Snap and twist off the claws where ta and serve. sire of a Byzantine official to con- among his most delicate dishes a ly Byzantine era was a global enter- good food for a lifetime. they join the lobster body. In a KALI OREXI THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006 Greek Food & Wine 15 16 Greek Food & Wine THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 18, 2006