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Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: the Economic, Social, and Technological History of Beer in Egypt 1880-1970

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Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: the Economic, Social, and Technological History of Beer in Egypt 1880-1970 University of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2015 Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: The Economic, Social, and Technological History of Beer in Egypt 1880-1970 Omar D. Foda University of Pennsylvania, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Economic History Commons, Islamic World and Near East History Commons, and the Near Eastern Languages and Societies Commons Recommended Citation Foda, Omar D., "Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: The Economic, Social, and Technological History of Beer in Egypt 1880-1970" (2015). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. 1055. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/1055 This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/1055 For more information, please contact [email protected]. Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: The Economic, Social, and Technological History of Beer in Egypt 1880-1970 Abstract Contrary to common perceptions, the history of beer (and indeed of other alcoholic beverages) in the Muslim-majority context of Egypt has not been a history of government officials desperately seeking to extirpate the evil of alcohol as rumrunners, backyard brewers, and moonshiners stayed one step ahead. Rather it was a history of a commercially-marketed product that enjoyed relatively wide popularity and robust growth from 1880 to 1980, and sat at the cutting edge of technological innovation in Egypt in that same period. Its success was not only evident from the profitability of the companies that sold it, but also from its increasing appearances in all popular forms of art and media. The title of my dissertation is "Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: An Economic, Social, and Technological history of Beer in Egypt, 1880-1970". My dissertation studies Egypt during an exciting period, when the country was transitioning from being a quasi-colonial state, under British Occupation after 1882 and, until 1914, under Ottoman influence as well, ot being an independent country within a highly competitive global economy. Using American, Dutch, and Egyptian archival sources, as well as Arabic literary sources, I focus on two closely linked companies, Crown and Pyramid Breweries. Originally founded by Belgian expatriates in Egypt, these two firms in their ariousv incarnations developed the Egyptian beer industry and cultivated a wide customer base. I take the story past the 1950s, when the Egyptian government under Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized the beer industry (which was by then led by Stella Beer and owned primarily by Heineken) much as it nationalized the Suez Canal. Through the study of this beverage, my research connects the history of Egypt to Belgium, Netherlands, Britain, and elsewhere; the history of a business to developments in technology, politics, and consumer culture; and the history of the people - of "everyday Egyptians" - to business elites. Viewed through a mug of beer, we can tell the economic, political, and cultural history of Egypt at large. Degree Type Dissertation Degree Name Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) Graduate Group Near Eastern Languages & Civilizations First Advisor Heather J. Sharkey Keywords Crown Brewery, Egyptian Beer, Heineken, Pyramid Brewery, Stella Beer Subject Categories Economic History | Islamic World and Near East History | Near Eastern Languages and Societies This dissertation is available at ScholarlyCommons: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/1055 GRAND PLANS IN GLASS BOTTLES: A SOCIAL, ECONOMIC AND TECHNOLOGICAL HISTORY OF BEER IN EGYPT 1880-1970 Omar D Foda A DISSERTATION in Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations Presented to the Faculties of the University of Pennsylvania in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy 2015 Supervisor of Dissertation Dr. Heather J. Sharkey Associate Professor of Modern Islamic History Graduate Group Chairperson Dr. Grant Frame, Associate Professor of Assyriology Dissertation Committee Dr. Robert Vitalis, Professor of Political Science Dr. Peter Gran, Professor of History GRAND PLANS IN GLASS BOTTLES: A SOCIAL, ECONOMIC, AND TECHNOLOGICAL HISTORY OF BEER IN EGYPT 1880-1970. 2015 Omar David Foda This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution- NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 License To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-ny-sa/2.0/ To My Love iii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This dissertation could not have been written were it not for the friendship, support, patience and guidance of a number of people whom I would like to recognize and thank. The incredibly helpful and kind staffs at the Dar al-Watha’iq in Cairo and the Presbyterian Historical Society aided me in my examination of the archival records that sit at the center of this dissertation. The editors of IJMES and the four anonymous reviewers provided incisive criticism and incredibly valuable input on the article out of which this dissertation grew. I would like to thank Ignacio Gallup-Diaz, Sharon Ullman, and the rest of the Bryn Mawr history department for providing a supportive environment in which I could finish this dissertation. At the University of Pennsylvania, I cannot thank Professors Roger Allen, Joe Lowry, Paul Cobb, and the rest of the professors who comprise the Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations Department enough for their roles in my development as a scholar of the region across both space and time. I would like to express my sincerest gratitude to my committee members- Professors Peter Gran, Robert Vitalis, and Heather Sharkey. Their feedback and guidance was truly invaluable. The debt of gratitude I owe to my advisor, Heather Sharkey, is massive. She not only diligently read several drafts of this work, but was an ever-patient sounding board for all of my ideas, a tireless cheerleader for me and my project, an endless source of sage advice, and a truly exemplary mentor and scholar. I am also indebted to Linda Greene, Peggy Guinan, and Diane Moderski who made NELC a home away from home for me. I would like to thank my colleagues Alon Tam, Elias Saba, Amanda Hanoosh, Carolyn Brunelle, Nick Harris, Ryan Rittenberg, and Jeffery Arsenault for the great meals and conversations. I give special thanks to my family in Philadelphia, Connecticut, Egypt and New York. In Philadelphia, Chris Boyle, Rebecca Aurritt, Tony Keating, and Ciara Barr have provided an unbelievable and indispensible support network. In Connecticut, the Giampetruzzis, especially Dr. Sandra Affenito, have provided unending inspiration. In Egypt, the Fodas, especially Joyce Foda, have served as unending reservoirs of love and information. In New York, Adam and Zack Foda provided the encouragement and sibling rivalry and Karen and Hussein Foda, my parents, provided the unending and unquestioned love and support that allowed me to get to where I am today. Finally, I want to thank my wife, Amelia, without whom none of this would be possible. iv ABSTRACT GRAND PLANS IN GLASS BOTTLES: A SOCIAL, ECONOMIC, AND TECHNOLOGICAL HISTORY OF BEER IN EGYPT 1880-1970. Omar D.Foda Dr .Heather J. Sharkey Contrary to common perceptions, the history of beer (and indeed of other alcoholic beverages) in the Muslim-majority context of Egypt has not been a history of government officials desperately seeking to extirpate the evil of alcohol as rumrunners, backyard brewers, and moonshiners stayed one step ahead. Rather it was a history of a commercially-marketed product that enjoyed relatively wide popularity and robust growth from 1880 to 1980, and sat at the cutting edge of technological innovation in Egypt in that same period. Its success was not only evident from the profitability of the companies that sold it, but also from its increasing appearances in all popular forms of art and media. The title of my dissertation is “Grand Plans in Glass Bottles: An Economic, Social, and Technological history of Beer in Egypt, 1880-1970”. My dissertation studies Egypt during an exciting period, when the country was transitioning from being a quasi- colonial state, under British Occupation after 1882 and, until 1914, under Ottoman influence as well, to being an independent country within a highly competitive global economy. Using American, Dutch, and Egyptian archival sources, as well as Arabic literary sources, I focus on two closely linked companies, Crown and Pyramid Breweries. v Originally founded by Belgian expatriates in Egypt, these two firms in their various incarnations developed the Egyptian beer industry and cultivated a wide customer base. I take the story past the 1950s, when the Egyptian government under Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized the beer industry (which was by then led by Stella Beer and owned primarily by Heineken) much as it nationalized the Suez Canal. Through the study of this beverage, my research connects the history of Egypt to Belgium, Netherlands, Britain, and elsewhere; the history of a business to developments in technology, politics, and consumer culture; and the history of the people – of “everyday Egyptians” – to business elites. Viewed through a mug of beer, we can tell the economic, political, and cultural history of Egypt at large vi ABSTRACT ...................................................................................................................... V LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ......................................................................................... XI CHAPTER 1:INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................
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