TEPOZTLAN, MEXICO – 2006 12th International Symposium on Vulcanospeleology Greg Middleton

ABSTRACT The 12th International Symposium on Vulcanospeleology was held at Tepoztlán, Mexico in July 2006. Field trips included visits to the spatter cones and vents of Los Cuescomates, Cueva del Diablo, Chimalacatepec, Iglesia Cave, Cueva del Ferrocarril, Cantona archaeological site, Alchichica Maar, El Volcancillo crater and tubes, Rio Actopan (river rafting). The author later visited some unusual volcanic caves near Colonia Moderna, northwest of Guadalajara.

WELCOME TO MEXICO small band of helpers. Attendees included Arriving at Mexico City airport just before IUS Volcanic Caves Commission Chair Jan midnight on 1 July, after flying from Sydney Paul Van Der Pas (and Bep) (Netherlands), a for 25 hours (with a 3 hour stop-over in contingent from South Korea (Kyung Sik Santiago de Chile), can be slightly Woo, Kwang Choon Lee, In-Seok Son and harrowing. Then to find the last bus to others), a contingent from the Azores Cuernavaca (fare 1,100 Peso or US$10) (Paulino Costa, João C. Nunes, Paulo departed at 11:30 pm and be confronted by a Barcelos, João P. Constância and others), rather dubious-looking character offering a Marcus & Robin Gary, Diana Northup, Ken ‘taxi’ to take you there for US$160, can be Ingham and Peter Ruplinger from the USA, positively unnerving. Fortunately, with only Stephan Kempe and Horst-Volker Henschel my wallet considerably lighter, I made it to from Germany, Ed Waters and (of course) the small village of Tepoztlán, arriving at the Chris Wood from the UK, together with a Hospedaje Los Reyes at 1:45 am. I rested number of locals. most of the next day, wandering downtown FIELD TRIP #1 to the Axitla Restaurant for the symposium’s Somewhat unusually, the meeting started opening banquet at 6 pm. with a field trip to introduce us to the Sierra THOSE ATTENDING Chichinautzin Volcanic Field (SCVF), The symposium was ably organised by located south of Mexico City, in the centre of Ramón Espinasa, John & Suzy Pint and a the Transmexican Volcanic Belt (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1. Tectonic setting of the symposium and field trips, in the Transmexican Volcanic Belt.

Journal of the Sydney Speleological Society, 2007, 51(5): 123 Our first stop was to view the 3,620 m studies in Harrat Khaybar, Saudi Arabia by Pelado Volcano, one of the most John Pint; Al-Fahde Cave, Jordan, longest symmetrical cones in the SCVF and which lava cave on Arabian Peninsula, and Lava contains a rare cave in andesite, the highest cave research in Jordan by Stephan Kempe et mapped cave in North America. From the al. Morelos Memorial we walked into a pine Further presentations on 6 July related to forest to see the Los Cumescomates hornitos/ Gruta das Torres visitor centre, Pico I., rootless vents (Fig. 2) and associated small Azores by Manuel P. Costa et al.; what is lava tubes, formed when lava flowed over a known about Thurston Lava Tube, Hawaii swampy area. Local fare was enjoyed for (the most visited lava tube in the world?) by lunch at a restaurant near the monument. Kempe and Henschel; Geology and genesis We then drove back through Tepoztlán and of Kamakalepo Cave system in Mauna Loa down to Cueva del Diablo. What for most of lavas, Hawaii and Archaeology of the us was our first Mexican lava tube cave is Kamakalepo/ Waipouli/ Stonehenge area, 2,020 m long and is still used by locals for underground fortresses, living quarters and religious rituals honouring the devil, petroglyph fields by Kempe et al.; involving the sacrifice of chickens. Comparison of microbial mats in Pahoehoe This anastomosing tube system (a minor one and Four Windows caves, El Malpais NM, compared to what was to come), is the New Mexico by Diana Northup et al. (are lowest in the Suchiooc lava flow. The cave they impacting on the basalt?); Use of features canyons and multiple superimposed Atlantis Terra 2 in mapping biodiversity of passages; climbing between them can be caves in Azores by Paulo Borges et al.; difficult (Fig. 3). Cueva del Diablo: a batcave in Tepoztlán by Gabriela Segurajáuregui; Troglobites from PRESENTATIONS lava tubes in Sierra de Chichinautzin Tuesday 4 July was devoted to presentations challenge the exclusion principle by Luis at the Symposium venue – an ancient Espinasa & Adriana Fisher; Uranium in convent in the middle of town. Papers were caves by Juan Bernal; Development of a given on Mexican lava caves: Lava tubes of Karst Information Portal to advance research the Suchiooc Volcano by Ramón (detailed and education in global karst science by descriptions, including most important and Northup et al.; A database for the most complex Ferrocarril system – 14 entrances – outstanding volcanic caves in the world by archaeological values, problems with rubbish João Constância et al.; Morphogenesis of dumping); Surveyed lava tubes of Jalisco, lava tube caves: a review by Chris Wood. In Mexico by John Pint et al. (small but only addition, there were at least 10 poster tubes in region); Cueva Chinacamoztoc, presentations ranging from local caves to a Puebla (cave of bats, first recorded 1851, 15 number on lava caves in the Azores islands. m high entrance now filled with sediment) #2 – SISTEMA CHIMALACATEPEC by Ramón; Cueva Chapuzon in lithic tuff, Jalisco by Chris Lloyd and the Pints (water- On 5th it was back to the field. After eroded); Limestone dissolution driven by breakfast at our hotels we met downtown and volcanic activity, Sistema Zacatón, Mexico took taxis up to the village of San Juan by Marcus Gary et al. (spectacular El Tlacotenco. (Under this village lie 12 caves Zacatón is the deepest phreatic sinkhole in that form the Sistema Tlacotenco, the longest the world – Fig. 4.) Later sessions were and most complex lava tubes in Continental devoted to lava caves of the world, including America – but more on them later.) the potential of Korea’s Jeju Island caves for We climbed up a steep path from the village World Heritage inscription (Prof. Woo); the to the lowest entrance to the Sistema recently discovered calcite-decorated Chimalacatepec, Cueva de Iztaxiatla. This Yongchon Cave on Jeju Island and its 1,390 m cave system is the deepest lava tube structural characteristics (Profs Lee & Woo in Continental America, with a vertical and Dr In-Seok Son); Recent contributions to extent of 201 m. (see Fig. 5). Icelandic cave exploration by Shepton Mallet Caving Club, UK by Ed Waters; Lava-cave

Journal of the Sydney Speleological Society, 2007, 51(5): 124 Fig. 5. Profile of Sistema Chimalacatepec showing entrances, etc. [from Espinasa 2006]

The organisers rigged two abseiling ropes, abstracts were published for the Iceland plus a wire ladder for those without SRT (2002) symposium. Proceedings of this gear, and we descended the 15 m entrance symposium will be published by the Assoc. shaft into Cueva de Iztaxiatla (Fig. 6). A for Mexican Cave Studies, which is willing scramble down a sloping passage brought us to include previously presented, but to a wire ladder down a further 2-3 m drop. unpublished, papers. From there it was a gradual descent with A proposal to hold the next symposium in only one short crawl to the terminal lava seal Jeju Island, South Korea, in 2008 presented or sump. The passage is generally a few by Dr In-Seok Son was unanimously metres high – e.g. the Las Repisas section accepted. The author foreshadowed the (Fig. 7). The cave was found to contain likelihood of a bid by Australia to host a archaeological remains at three distinct sites, symposium in 2010. comprising incense burning pots, earthen- Dr Kempe raised the matter of problems of ware bowls, 50 figurines carved from jadeite access to caves on State land on Hawaii. It and fireplaces. Dating indicates a post- was agreed that the authorities should be colonisation age for this material. On our urged not to hinder speleological research. visit, Ramón found some small pieces of A proposal from the Azores to prepare a coloured stone at the furthest site and Jan world catalogue of significant lava caves was Paul found a quartz crystal at the penultimate accepted in principle, with a group being site. Diana was happy as she found plenty of designated to examine the criteria, etc, on cave slime. behalf of the Commission. After a few hours we returned to San Juan FIELD TRIP #3 – CUEVA DE LA for a traditional meal comprising prickly pear IGLESIA – MINA SUPERIOR ‘leaves’ with cheese in an egg batter, a We returned to San Juan Tlacotenco on 7 tomato sauce, beans and rice, washed down July to visit a small part of the Sistema with guava juice. Australia might never have Tlacotenco: the 6 km long Cueva de la needed the Cactoblastis caterpillar if we had Iglesia – Mina Superior; second longest lava just developed a taste for prickly pear! tube in Continental America (see Fig. 8). A local bus took us back down to Tepoztlán. The guidebook (Espinasa 2006) describes COMMISSION MEETING Iglesia as “a complex network of anasto- The IUS Commission on Volcanic Caves mosing passages” – as is demonstrated by met on 6 July at the Ex-convento de Nuestra the plan (Fig. 8). We were very impressed Señora de la Natividad, Tepoztlán. A matter when Ramón conducted us through much of of concern has been the publication of the this cave with barely a glance at the map. proceedings of the previous 3 symposia. The Our party entered via the only accessible Catania (1999) proceedings appeared on CD entrance (5 others have been blocked), in the in 2005 and the Azores (2004) proceedings SE of the town, and were immediately have also been published on CD. Only the crawling – in mud even!

Journal of the Sydney Speleological Society, 2007, 51(5): 125 A short distance inside we noted pottery passage on the left, notable for its red a’a fragments, indicating the cave was used in by lava. There were a few bats and we managed the native people. The cave demonstrates to catch one to photograph (Fig. 17). Here, many lava tube features, such as benches while taking a photo, Ed slipped and gashed along the walls, lava falls, lava balls (Fig. 9), his hand badly. First aid soon staunched the flaking linings, syngenetic breakdown, flow of blood but Ed was badly shaken. shark-tooth lavacicles and secondary speleo- The main passage descended to the 10 m thems, possibly of silica (Fig. 10). We even pitch known as El Embudo which had to be found some excellent microgours, probably clambered around to get to the next drop, La also formed of silica (Fig. 11). Despite some Cascada. Some of the party continued on low sections, most of the passages are down while some returned to the surface. walkable (Fig. 12). Cueva del Arbol has a total length of 1480 m That evening we all returned to the Axitla and a vertical extent of 118 m. “Since it Restaurant for the excellent closing banquet. allows access to a master tube with clearly POST-SYMP. FIELD TRIP A – CUEVA formed canyon shaped passages, separating DEL FERROCARRIL – MINA INFERIOR into superposed levels, and also gives access At 6538 m, this is the longest lava tube in to smaller anastomosing overflow tubelets, it Continental America and has a vertical is safe to say that it is one of the most extent of 90 m. It could be a lot longer; it instructive lava tubes of the area, from the comes within 20 m of Cueva de la Iglesia- geomorphologic and genetic point of view” Mina Superior and 15 m of Cueva de la (Espinasa 2006). Tuberia; it has been cut off from Cueva de FIELD TRIP C – EASTERN END OF Capulin by the railway cutting (see Fig. 8). TRANSMEXICAN VOLCANIC BELT This is a remarkably complex lava tube; On 10 July we left Tepoztlán by minibus, there is no clear ‘master’ tube; the passages failed to see Popocatepetl stratovolcano due form a complex anastomosing labyrinth. to low cloud but did catch sight of Malinche On this trip a slightly hung-over Ramón led stratovolcano. We stopped at Alchichica the hard-core group of Chris, Ed, Stephan, Maar to observe its phreatomagmatic tuff Horst-Volker, Jessica, Jorge and Curro (3 cone, bedded tephra deposits with volcanic local cavers) and the author on about a four- bombs and unusual ring of ‘white caliche- and-a half hour wander through this labyrinth like deposits’ (Fig. 18) which formed as (see route shown on Fig. 8). stromatalites (and may still be growing). The We started at an entrance created by the latter were too much for our Germanic railway cutting which presumably gave the compatriots (Stephan & Horst-Volker) who cave its name. The labyrinth contains an proceeded, over the next few hours, to impressive array of passage forms with measure, sample, document and record every multiple levels, complex junctions (Fig. 13) conceivable aspect of the billowing white and evidence of the pirating of lava flows, material, huge samples of which were together with obvious flow features (Figs. trucked off to the lab for still further 14, 15, cover). analysis. There being little of the day left, we retired to a hotel at Perote. FIELD TRIP B – CUEVA DEL ARBOL Next day we visited the recently excavated The second post-symposium field trip, on 9 and partly restored archaeological site at July, went to Cueva del Arbol, a cave Cantona, a bewildering maze of pathways, directly above, though extending under – and stairs, walls, platforms, ball-courts and arguably part of – Sistema Chimalacatepec. pyramids. At 12 sq. km., it is the largest The notes say “The entrance to this cave is urban centre yet discovered in Mesoamerica probably the most impressive in the and flourished between 600 and 1000 AD. Suchiooc lava flow” (Espinasa 2006) and I After a couple of hours we drove on to the can thoroughly endorse this (Fig. 16). The small village of Francisco I. Madero and out large skylight gives access, over massive into fields of broadbeans and maize. From breakdown, to a large (10-15 m high) there we walked into the ‘scrub’ of cactus downward-trending passage. Before proceed- and pines, soon reaching the upper entrance ing down we investigated a large side to Cueva de Chinacamoztoc.

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Fig. 2. On the rim of one of the numerous Los Cumescomates hornitos. photo: Kwang Choon Lee

Fig. 3. Prof. Woo climbs between levels in Cueva del Diable. >

Fig. 4. Comparison of El Zacatón with Pozzo del Fig. 6. The 15 m entrance pitch into Cueva de Merro, Italy, world’s deepest underwater cave. Iztaxiatla. photo: Kwang Choon Lee

Fig. 7. In Las Repisas passage, Iztaxiatla. Wall Fig. 9. Chairman Jan Paul crawls past a wedged levees indicate the tube was filled and drained. lava ball in Cueva de la Iglesia.

Fig. 10. Who Fig. 11. says lava Chris caves don’t examines have good microgours ‘tites? in Cueva de Example from la Iglesia Cueva de la Iglesia

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Fig. 12. Typical tube passage in Cueva de la Iglesia. In the distance it splits into two.

Fig. 13. Ferrocarril passage junction; Jessica and Curro. photos ^ >: Ed Waters Fig. 14. Chris and striking flowlines, Ferrocarril.>

Fig. 15. The author on a small lava fall, Fig. 16. Curro descends the 15 m entrance pitch Ferrocarril. photo: Ed Waters into Cueva del Arbol (note big trees).

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Fig. 8. Plan of most of the caves comprising the Sistema Tlacotenco (Cueva de Marcelo (1286 m), to the northeast, has been omitted). The route through Cueva del Ferrocarril followed on 8 July 2006 is overlain. [from Espinasa 2006] We passed into a comfortable walking tube blocks or bare a’a floors. Frequently and went mauka to The Wall (an skylights are passed or the tube is completely anthropogenic structure probably put in to collapsed and one crosses an open rubble- prevent the silting up of the lower part of the filled depression, carefully avoiding the cave). A hole in The Wall (Fig. 19) allowed ferocious bees and dozing rattlesnakes. In access to a short section of the upper cave one of the later openings we disturbed 3 (first reported in 1865), since completely large owls which flew in and out, but were silted up. Proceeding makai, we passed difficult to photograph. Under a large dome through a tube up to 30 m wide and often with a small, high, skylight (Fig. 20) we over 10 m high with frequent breakdown noticed a raised mound of rocks.

Journal of the Sydney Speleological Society, 2007, 51(5): 129 Inside the ring of rocks was a circular to Guadalajara to visit John and Suzy Pint at depression and beyond it, a ring of El Rancho Pint, Zapopan. breakdown rubble – surely this is a religious A highlight of that visit was a day trip with site of some kind. The Lower Entrance, John, Chris Lloyd (a Canadian-Mexican from which we emerged, required a slightly caver/geologist) and Sonia (a local caver) to tricky climb up the side of the pit followed the northwest of Guadalajara (towards the by an easy hike back to the village. coast). First stop was below Ceboruco Next morning we drove to the new park at Volcano where we inspected a 19th century Volcancillo where we were kindly offered a lava flow, which is still only barely lift to the top in a truck. Unfortunately it vegetated. We then drove on to the small didn’t quite make it so we had a steep climb village of Colonia Moderna, located among up the last part to the rim of a deep, vertical- the lava flows of Volcan Sanganguey, sided, spectacular caldera. Unusually, a cave southeast of Tepic, where Chris and John opens high on the wall of the caldera and spoke to various locals about caves. runs steeply down, breaking out on the outer Eighty-seven year old Don Eduardo agreed face of the small volcano. In parts of the to show us a cave he knew; it turned out he steep 50 m tube, upper levels were evident hadn’t revisited it in 50 years! Anyway, we and above the lowest exit were stacked three found it with little trouble in an outcrop of higher openings (Fig. 21). Scrambling over what Chris identified as a rhyolitic tuff. I breakdown, we descended to the lower, followed Chris in through a low scramble main, part of the Cueva de Volcancillo. We which led to a wide chamber 1.5 to 2 m high descended this colourful tube for about 350 and about 20 m long. Chris pointed out m, including some bits of climbing (Fig. 22), some black deposits on the floor which to a steep drop (Fig. 23) below a small indicated the presence of vampire bats! skylight before retracing our steps. As we These caused us no trouble; indeed, they got back to our vehicle we remembered the withdrew into cracks when one tried to Cueva del Arco. Despite the onset of a heavy photograph them (Fig. 26). Here I also downpour, Ramon led us part-way back up encountered my first “tindarapos” or the peak and across to see this dramatic arch “vinagrillos” as Chris called them – so-called (Fig. 24). The structure is about 35 m in “whip-tailed scorpions” (which don’t have total height; about 20 m to the top of the whip-tails and don’t look much like opening – certainly the most spectacular arch scorpions)(Fig. 27); some were as big as a in lava the author has seen. dinner plate. There were a few low crawls We then drove via Xalapa to El leading off the main chamber but no real Descabezadero where the Actopan River prospect of extensions. The cave seemed to suddenly rises from beneath the bottom end have been formed by erosion of a relatively of the Volcancillo lava (about 50 km from its soft layer in a (volcanic) rhyolitic tuff. origin). In a nearby village we were Back on the surface we rejoined our elderly accommodated at the headquarters of guide and decided to name the cave after “Diversion en Rio” and on our final day were him: Cueva Don Eduardo (the ‘don’ being a treated to a white-water rafting trip by this term of respect). We drove him back to town company down about 15 km of the almost and after John and Chris chatted to an earlier continuous rapids of the river (Fig. 25) right informant, José, we drove to another cave to the village of Actopan (stopping at a shown by him to John and Chris in May riverside bar on the way). 2005 – La Cueva del Zurdo (the Cave of the This most enjoyable and enlightening Left-Handed Man - after José’s father)(see excursion ended that evening in the historical Pint 2006a). heart of Mexico City. Many thanks to Chris quickly relocated the cave on the edge Ramón for a great trip. of a sugarcane field but as it was by then TO GUADALAJARA 3:30 pm we paused for lunch. This cave was With a few more days to spend in Mexico, also in rhyolitic tuff. A low entrance opened the author took a look at the historic into a broad, low chamber. Chris highlights of old Mexico City and then flew immediately headed for a small passage leading from the lowest part of the chamber

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Fig. 17. Microchiroptera encountered in Cueva del Arbol.

Fig. 18. The phreatomagmatic tuff cone, lake and stromatalites of Alchichica Maar. photo: S. Kempe

Fig. 19. Laura at the hole in The Wall, Cueva de Chinacanoztoc.

Fig. 20. Large dome with ring of stones beneath – apparent religious site - in Cueva de Chinacanoztoc.

< Fig. 21. Stacked lower entrances to Cueva del Volcancillo.

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Fig. 22. Chris determined to chimney his way up a Fig. 23. Last drop before the bottom of Cueva del tricky bit; “OK, but where to from here?” Volcancillo.

Fig. 25. The “Volcanic Rafters” in action on the Rio Actopan.

Fig. 26. Vampire bats in Cueva de Don Eduardo retreated into roof cracks.

Fig. 24. The spectacular El Arco; the arch is 20 m high, the whole structure, c. 35 m. Fig. 27. A “tindarapo” or whip-tailed scorpion.

Fig. 28. John in the pumice connecting passage, Fig. 29. Chris below the obsidian ceiling Cueva de Zurdo. of part of Cueva de Zurdo.

Journal of the Sydney Speleological Society, 2007, 51(5): 132 where he had noticed a strong draught on volcanic cave. He also stirred up large their first visit. The small passage soon numbers of (mainly insectivorous) bats. We enlarged and after a couple of bends opened decided to leave surveying of the cave to into a round chamber, 2 m high except for a another day (or perhaps night , when the bats central blind shaft obviously frequented by will be out feeding) and drove back to vampires. A low passage (Fig. 28) continued Zapopan. on to a wide, but still low chamber with In the following days I visited the Rio many bats flitting about and more Caliente in the Parque Ejidal La Primavera “tindarapos”. Of most interest, however, was with John, the nearby oak and pine forest the fact that the cave appeared to have been with Chris and the local markets with Suzy. eroded out of a bed of rock formed from All in all, a most enjoyable conclusion to my consolidated pumice pieces in an ash matrix. stay in Mexico. My sincere thanks to the Chris also noted that further in the ceiling Pints and Chris Lloyd. was composed of a thin band of obsidian pieces (Fig. 29) which appeared to have been Photos by the author except where indicated intruded in between the upper tuff and the otherwise. lower pumice layers, now largely removed – For other reports on the symposium see Pint a very unusual formation. The black glassy (2006b) and, for a British view, Waters chunks of obsidian sparkled in our torch (2006). The author also reported on the post- lights. As Chris explored more passages symposium field trips to NSS (Middleton leading off the main chamber, he declared 2006). this to be a highly unusual and significant REFERENCES ESPINASA-PEREÑA, Ramón 2006 Field Trip Guidebook XII International Symposium on Vulcanospeleology. Tepoztlán, Morelos, Mexico. 47 pp. MIDDLETON, Greg 2006 Post-symposium field trips. NSS News, 64(9): 30-31 PINT, John 2006 Zurdo Cave http://www.saudicaves.com/mx/zurdo/index.htm PINT, John 2006b Lava cavers gather in Tepoztlán, Mexico. NSS News, 64(9): 19-20, 30 WATERS, Ed 2006 The darker side of Mexico. Descent [UK], #193: 34-35

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