Mediterranean Diversity on the Croatian Adriatic
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Mediterranean Magazine2020 Diversity on the Croatian Adriatic WAVES OF WELLNESS Breathe deep, reenergize EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE Activeby water, onexploration land and in the air NEWS, TIPS AND MANY ADDRESSES for perfect holiday planning FOREWORD Travel guide Lonely Planet IMPERIAL selected the Kvarner Region as one of its Top 10 destinations in 2020. We are thrilled! ROMANTIC RELAXATION IN HISTORIC AMBIANCE Hidden in a park full of exotic plants, min- utes from the beach and the vibrant historic Rab Old Town Valamar Collection Imperial Hotel offers relaxing holiday. Spend your DEAR GUESTS AND FRIENDS day in peace and privacy of amazing natural OF THE KVARNER REGION! beaches or by the pool, hiking, cycling and exploring the nature. As the sun sets, have “Rijeka and the surrounding rivieras represent a locally sourced dinner and get ready to Croatia’s most appealing contrasts” – it is in dance, play or spend a romantic evening. terms such as these that authors and journal- ists often reflect their impressions. In my mind, the nearby islands and the enchanted hinter- land with its practically untouched natural beauty are also an important part of the pic- ture. – A world of adventure with countless opportunities for recreation. In 2020, Rijeka will proudly hold the title EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE. Featuring a multifaceted programme that reflects the di- versity of a region which, with its rich history and the proximity of coast, islands and moun- tains, is truly unique and rewarding from so many perspectives. Combine your family holi- days, journeys of discovery and gourmet ex- cursions, your active vacation or a stay focused FAMILY HOLIDAYS WITH on healthcare, with a visit to our port city. – You are certain to be pleasantly surprised! A SPECTACULAR VIEW WELCOME! Recently renovated, Valamar Padova Hotel lies on the edge of the beautiful bay out- side of the town of Rab, only a 10-minute stroll from the Old Town, ripe with op- Irena Peršić Živadinov, Ph.D. portunities. Adults can enjoy the sundeck Director of the Kvarner Region Tourist Board or hop on a bike and explore numerous Rijeka / Opatija / Krk / Lošinj / Rab (top to bottom) forest trails before hitting the Wellness & Spa, while the kids entertain in the Super Maro and Teen facilities. KVARNER REGION TOURIST BOARD Croatia, 51410 Opatija, N.Tesle 2, T. +385 (0)51 / 272 988, Info & reservations: Photos: Hauenstein (1), Heuer (3), Miletić (1), Kvarner Tourist Office (1) F. 272 909, E. [email protected], www.kvarner.hr T +385 52 465 000 E [email protected] www.valamar.com 3 CONTENTS Magazine S 6–12 29–33 Delicious… 40 Where our journey takes us 6–12 TO HEAVEN & BACK 30 GOURMET NEWS 34 Coast, islands and mountains: Exquisite culinary highlights. A tour. 31–33 DELECTABLE ADDRESSES 14–16 EN Restaurant selection from EUROPEAN CAPITAL Why aOF visit CULTURE to European Cultural Kvarner Gourmet & Food Capital 2020 is so rewarding. Info & tips. 34 PURE LUXURY Camping or glamping? 18–20 CULTURE REDEFINED Living between Adriatic and Kings of the air, shopping with pine trees. Venus and murmurs of the sea during Advent. 36–37 BIKING Of more than 1300 kilometers 22–23 SEA IS THE BEST MEDICINE of bike paths, and a 4-island Healthy holidays, therapeutic MTB race climate and a magical coastline. HolidayCheck TopHotel 2019 38 HIKING WORLDS Tripadvisor 2019 24–25 STELLAR MOMENTS First-rate prospects for hiking TOP 25 in Croatia FOR GOURMETS fans. No. 1 in Opatija Where the first Michelin star is Falstaff Guide 42 shining and why. 40 TRAVELING ON FOUR PAWS 90 points Of dog-friendly accommoda- 26 KVARNER tions, beaches, and hiking paths MAP including doggie diary. THE COVER Find places quickly. 42 SPORTING MIX Arsen Miletić captured the mood of the port of Rijeka, Borko Vukosav photographed whimsical 28 LIQUID GOLD scenes for RI2020, while the beach photo of Gifts from nature: 43 HOME-AWAY-FROM-HOME Brsec even enchanted first class olive oil and valuable All addresses for campgrounds, photographer Frank fragrances. hostels and hotels. Heuer. FINE DINING, SPA, FITNESS, ART, CULTURE, EXCURSIONS & GOOD ENTERTAINMENT 29 SHOWCASE 50 SERVICE Culinary tips and Arrival info, credits etc. event dates. Imprint. Photos: Heuer (2), Montys Hundestrand (1), Valamar (1), Villa Ariston (1) HOTEL MIRAMAR****S · The Adriatic relaxation resort in Opatija / Abbazia Ive Kaline 11 · HR–51410 Opatija · T. 00385 / 51 / 28 00 00 · www.hotel-miramar.info 4 Magazine TO HEAVEN AND BACK Idyllic bathing resorts with magical beaches and a therapeutic climate. Cosmopolitan harbor towns, medieval mountain villages, thoroughly enchanting islands and a mountainous hinterland with cultural and natural treasures. Diverse Kvarner Bay makes virtually everything possible in a small area: family-, health-, bathing-, active-, culinary holidays. The sandy „Rajska plaza“ beach in Lopar on the island of Rab is lovingly nicknamed „San Marino Paradise Beach“. It extends flat into the sea for several hundred meters, making it ideally suited for families and small children as well as sporting activities. Photo: Frank Heuer (1) 6 7 OPATIJA-RIVIERA AND HINTERLAND FULLTOUR Magazine ust a few hours after rolling out of a 2 comfy bed, we stand before the stout walls of the Kastav Old Town, whose au- thentic medieval flavor is certain to excite every history-film buff. Grandma, Jgrandpa, mom, dad and the two kids stand there in complete astonishment: on the one hand, due to the journey through time they have just taken – “so, where are all the 4 knights?” – on the other, entranced by the sight of Kvarner Bay, whose turquoise blue 3 The over 500 m long gravel beach of Mošćenicka Draga is one of the most beautiful on Kvarner Bay. melds with the sky on the horizon. So beauti- Here, you can either relax wonderfully or take advantage of the sporting opportunities. 4 Small boats fill ful, so broad. And yet so close! the tiny harbor of Lovran. It is fun to watch their owners navigate in and out. A nudged boat here, a push-off 1 there, and before long, it’s open sailing. LATE 19 TH CENTURY CHARM, CHILLIN’ 3 CAFÉS AND PROMENADES 1 In the Middle Ages, small fortified towns like Kastav (above), Mošćenice, Veprinac and Brseč mainly provided To do something good for yourself on the protection from pirates and conquerors. Today, they Riviera of Opatija, all you need to do is take a reward hikers and bikers for their ascents of the region’s deep breath. The therapeutic climate of this nicely maintained biking and trekking trails with scenery 2 KVARNER stretch of coast between the Učka mountains that is magical. Only 17 km from Opatija, Vojak mountain (1401 m) reveals breathtaking views BAY and Adriatic has been well established since extending all the way to Italy. 1889, in other words for more than 130 years. IS A Back then, the seaside resort “Abbazia” (to- PRIVILEGE day’s Opatija) was officially declared a climatic spa under the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, PER SE developing in no time at all into a hotspot for nobility, for the rich and beautiful. CAPTIVATING SCENERY AND JOUR- It was during this “Golden Age” that the NEYS TO THE MIDDLE AGES perfectly manicured parks, magnificent hotels Enthroned sublimely above the coast, Kastav, and countless aristocratic villas were born Veprinac, Mošćenice and Brsec were already that bring added charm to Opatija’s modern, inhabited before the port of Opatija even ex- Mediterranean lifestyle. isted. Even though they have a romantic The 10 km long “Franz-Josef-Küstenprom- charm today, for the longest time they were enade”, often simply referred to as Lungo- significant centers of power, a fact attested to mare, was also originally constructed for “me- by countless cultural treasures. dicinal purposes”. For the social-media generation, the views from these former fortresses are absolutely TO THIS DAY, THIS IDYLLIC PROM- “Instagrammable”, while culture lovers are ENADE BETWEEN THE ADRIATIC, drawn to impressive churches, small museums VILLAS, HOTELS, PARKS, RESTAURANTS and, not infrequently, to cemeteries whose AND CAFÉS IS REGARDED AS ONE OF gravestones have more intriguing stories to THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL. tell than any history book. The small fortified From the romantic fishing village Volosko towns are also the gateway to Učka Nature via the harbor town of Opatija and the tiny Park, where some 200 signposted hiking villages Ika and Ičići, the promenade mean- paths crisscross its 160 km². ders flanked by lush vegetation to the coastal DRINKING WATER TIP: Along the entire community of Lovran, whose small medieval Opatija Riviera and in Rijeka, purest spring 5 6 town center is a must-visit. Time and again, water from the Učka mountains flows out of Photos: Heuer (3), Matesić (1), Miletić (1), tzor_ucka (1) stairways lead down to bathing opportunities taps. You can drink it without a second Along its 10 beautiful kilometers, the “Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Promenade” connects the port towns of Volosko 5, Opatija, Ika, Ičići and Lovran – always right next to the Adriatic, or up to parks and villages. thought. flanked by 19th-century villas, cypresses, palms, parks and cafés. Opulent building façades reflect the glamorous past of Opatija as a spa destination. 6. 8 9 ISLANDS FULLTOUR Magazine WHICH ISLAND IS MINE ? 2 1 ach of the four big Kvarner Islands has a character all its own due to its location Where genuine adventures are still possi- 1 and history. The stormy Bora winds, much ble: camping and picnicking on the E small island of Maman during a kayak feared in the Velebit channel, have trans- Discovering slowness: stand-up paddling against the picturesque port backdrop of the island town of Veli Lošinj. On the board itself, everything is possible, from sampler lessons to a guided tour.