Photograph: Sam Scott

Welcome to a stretch of the River Thames that’s full of East End character, where the views are superb and the pubs alone are worth the walk.

Enjoy a stroll along the Thames Path as it winds its way through some of the most evocative spots on the historic riverbank, from Canary Wharf and the Isle of Dogs to the home of the Mayflower and the glorious Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site.

You’ll pass the places where pirates hung in chains; where Turner painted and Dickens set his scenes; where Brunel tasted his first success and most bitter failure and where dockers “grafted” until their backs bled.

The choice of walks that are featured here trace the rise, fall and resurrection of London’s great docks, which traded widely with the Empire and the world and bore the brunt of the Blitz in the Second World War. Largely silent since the 1960s, they are born again with warehouses converted to apartments and cafés and new housing now lining once-busy wharves. Contemporary life has also made its mark in the striking form of Canary Wharf’s towers, the Thames Barrier and the Millennium Dome.

Dip into the leaflet for a favourite walk or go the full course – just ten miles from start to finish. The route is level and clearly way-marked with Thames Path signs, there are plenty of places to stop for refreshments and a choice of buses, trains and boats to bring you home. Photograph: Liz Arkindale/ Pool of London Partnership ghts and cent views ne houses, such as H.M.S. Belfast

Photograph: Liz Arkindale/ Pool of London Partnership

- 20 min - 20

at Tower Bridge, enjoying superb views from the walkway of the Tower Bridge at Tower Bridge, enjoying superb views from

1 Shad Thames Photograph: Liz Arkindale/ Pool of London Partnership - 20 min - 20

north bank... More Pubs and Pirates . With the river to your right, pick up the Thames Path at St Katharine’s Pier, at the foot of the bridge. Passing the water sculpture Path at St Katharine’s Pier, at the foot of the bridge. Passing the water sculpture . With the river to your right, pick up the Thames 2 The Thames Path on the The Thames St Katharine Docks and the Town of Ramsgate St Katharine Docks and the Town of More London Fellowship Porters of Dickens’ novel Our Mutual Friend still retains a wonderfully Dickensian feel. From Narrow Street, follow signage through the Fellowship Porters of Dickens’ novel Our Mutual Friend still retains a wonderfully Dickensian Narrow Street, turn right just after Sun Wharf and back along the river to the panoramic viewpoint of the Narrow Street pub. This was the Narrow Street, turn right just after Sun Wharf and back along the river to the panoramic still access the intricate network of England’s inland old Dockmaster’s House at the entrance to Limehouse Basin, through which barges can merchants’ houses to the Grapes pub: The Six Jolly waterways. After crossing the bridge at Limehouse Marina continue past 18th-century setting for waterside housing and a watersports centre. Cross the bridge, skirt back to the waterfront and into King Edward VII Memorial Park; setting for waterside housing and a watersports centre. Cross the bridge, skirt back to Tunnel, still in use today. There’s more luxury housing the rotunda on the edge of the park disguises the ventilation shaft for Brunel’s Rotherhithe so hectic it was nicknamed the Madhouse. Rejoining ahead on Free Trade Wharf; built in the 1790s for the East India Company, the wharf was LIMEHOUSE AND THE MADHOUSE front of handsome apartments, with a little pebbly beach From the Prospect of Whitby, follow the Thames Path along a river terrace passing in ships outgrew the London Dock and now an attractive at low tide. The red bascule bridge here marks the entry to Shadwell Basin, built when from here. Look over the road to the London Hydraulic Pumping Station: now a restaurant, its décor still preserves parts of the machinery which from here. Look over the road to the London Hydraulic Pumping Station: now a restaurant, powered the London Palladium safety curtain and the lifting engines at Tower Bridge. remaining working warehouse on King Henry’s Wharf, with Wapping underground station hard on its heels. Some 40 yards beyond the station, remaining working warehouse on King Henry’s Wharf, with Wapping underground station Follow the walkway back onto the High Street, past a gated ramp leads back to the river to pass in front of apartments lining St Hilda’s Wharf. the Prospect of Whitby, once a hotbed of cockfi New Crane Wharf and more warehouse conversions to Wapping Wall. Walk on now to the pleasant Waterside Gardens at Wapping New Stairs. This is the most likely site of Execution Dock, where pirates received the Grace of the pleasant Waterside Gardens at Wapping New Stairs. This is the most likely site of naval officer turned pirate, shared this fate here in 1701. Wapping, tied to a stake until the tide had washed over them three times. Captain Kidd, via a quaint courtyard. Next comes Wapping’s only His name lives on in the Captain Kidd pub, housed in a converted warehouse and entered MORE PUBS AND PIRATES as town to your left down Scandrett Street. The 1760 old school of St John has been restored Walk on now through Oliver’s Wharf, and look Next come the blitz, is built of stone and brick specially chosen to be visible through river mists. houses and the church tower, which survived some of their most famous riverside scenes bare knuckle fights. The pub was also a favourite vantage point for Whistler and Turner, who painted landed their catch at Wapping Old Stairs, down the alley beside the pub. Judge Jeffreys of the Bloody Assizes was captured in the pub after his the alley beside the pub. Judge Jeffreys of the Bloody Assizes was captured in the landed their catch at Wapping Old Stairs, down Revolution of 1688. “master” James II was overthrown by the Glorious traditional Thames sailing barges. Over the footbridge, bear right into Katharine’s Way stopping to investigate Alderman Stairs – once busy with footbridge, bear right into Katharine’s Way stopping to investigate Alderman Stairs – once traditional Thames sailing barges. Over the the gate leading to the riverside terrace of Tower Bridge Wharf and enjoy more magnifi watermen and their passengers. Go through cry from the restaurants of Cinnabar Wharf. You are now approaching Wapping High Street, a far before rejoining the road amongst the chic is an unhurried and historic route, with trees, cobbles and some particularly fi modern thoroughfare its name suggests. It of Girl with a Dolphin, cross the footbridge at the entry to Thomas Telford’s St Katharine Docks which opened in 1828. Laid waste and all at the entry to Thomas Telford’s St Katharine Docks which opened in 1828. Laid waste of Girl with a Dolphin, cross the footbridge still home to were revived in the 1970s to house restaurants and shops set around a lively marina - but abandoned in World War II, the docks cials of 19th-century Wapping Dock which has since been filled in. Next on your right comes a famous Wapping Pierhead Houses built for officials of 19th-century Wapping Dock which Wapping High Street: The Town of Ramsgate takes its name from the fishermen of Ramsgate who survivor of the 36 pubs which once served Exhibition You join the Thames just beyond the Tower of London You join the Thames just beyond the Tower ST KATHARINE DOCKS AND THE TOWN OF RAMSGATE Photograph: Visit London Photograph: Visit London

Brunel Engine House Metropolitan Wharf St. Katharine Docks arched entry to the waterfront at Duke Shore Wharf. Keep following the Thames Path as it heads south along the distinctive U-bend which defines the Isle of Dogs, where an influx of lunch-time joggers announces the approach of Canary Wharf.

Limehouse and the Madhouse - 25 min

CANARY WHARF AND THE ISLE OF DOGS Walk on towards the pier at Canary Wharf, so called because it handled produce arriving from the Canary Islands. Take steps leading up from the waterfront bars and cafés to Westferry Circus and extensive designer shopping malls in the high-rise heart of Canary Wharf. From here, go on to the Museum in Docklands 3 at West India Quay: this was the old Blood Alley, where rough sugar sacks drew blood on the dockers’ backs. Detour from the Thames Path once more at Heron Quay Roundabout to see the Traffic Light Tree sculpture by Pierre Vivant, before walking on along the river towards Greenwich.

Canary Wharf and the Isle of Dogs - 15 min

The Thames Path on the south bank...

FROM BUTLER’S WHARF TO THE ANGEL Leaving Tower Bridge with the river on your left, enter the narrow lane of Shad Thames, with cafés and small shops set into massive warehouses linked overhead by iron bridges. Turn left before the first bridge into the passageway of Maggie Blake’s Cause and walk through to the river frontage of Butler’s Wharf. This most imposing of London’s Victorian warehouses was rescued in the 1980s by Sir Terence Conran, who turned it into stylish apartments and riverside restaurants. Walk on past Conran’s Design Museum 5 to the stainless steel footbridge at the entrance to St Saviour’s Dock, an atmospheric inlet of forbidding warehouses and tidal mud. You are now entering Concordia Wharf and Jacob’s Island, the part of Bermondsey which Charles Dickens described as “the filthiest, strangest and most extraordinary of the many localities that are hidden in London”. Pirates preyed on vessels awaiting entry to the docks: St Saviour’s Dock displayed the bodies of those who were captured and hanged here. If building is in progress, the Thames Path may now divert along Chambers Street and back to the river via Fountain Green Square. The walkway broadens here as it approaches Cherry Garden Pier, with Diane Gorvin’s charming three-piece sculpture of local MP and benefactor Dr Salter, his daughter and their cat. Skirt around the pier and walk on to the Angel pub; Judge Jeffries sat on the balcony here to watch the hangings across the river at Execution Dock and it was here that Turner was inspired to paint the Fighting Temeraire, as he watched the warship pass by on its final journey to the breaker’s yard. Look to the right of the Angel, where a grassy space conceals the remains of the 14th-century manor house of Edward IIl. Just beyond it are the King’s Stairs which served the palace, adopted by generations of watermen and by the mudlarks who scavenged along the river at low tide.

From Butler’s Wharf to the Angel - 25 min

PILGRIM FATHERS AND BRUNEL, FATHER & SON From the pleasant grassy knoll of King’s Stairs Gardens, walk between warehouses linked by little bridges decked with greenery to reach the historic heart of Rotherhithe’s conservation area and the old-world Mayflower pub. The famous ship which carried the Pilgrim Fathers to America in 1620 began its epic journey from its mooring near here, returning to London the following year. The Last Will and Testament of the Mayflower crew is displayed in the bar and the passenger list is on show in the restaurant upstairs. Across the road, St Mary’s church provides the burial place for four of the Mayflowers’ owners, including Christopher Jones who captained the ship to the New World. Note its barrel roof, shaped like an upturned ship, and the communion table and chairs made of timbers from the Temeraire, which served alongside Nelson’s ship the Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. Walk onto the museum 6 beyond the church: this is the engine house (which pumped out Brunel’s Rotherhithe Pool of London Partnership Photograph: Liz Arkindale/ Photograph: Visit London Photograph: Sam Scott

More London Rotherhithe Tower Bridge

Tunnel, the first ever built under a navigable river. Designed by Sir Marc Brunel assisted by his son Isambard, this feat of engineering pioneered a tunnelling technique still in use today. Feasts and fairs were staged in the tunnel which attracted two million visitors in its first year.

Pilgrim Fathers and Brunel, Father & Son - 10 min

SURREY WATER AND SURREY DOCK FARM Leaving Rotherhithe Street (the longest street in London) turn back to the river at Cumberland Wharf, with its bronze statue of a Bermondsey boy who is reading the story of the Mayflower. Walk on until the Thames Path crosses the lift-bridge at the entry to Surrey Water and turn left around the Spice Island pub. There are yet more superb views here as the path weaves along the riverside, skirting the old warehouse and rice mill of Globe Wharf, ducking behind apartments and back to the river via Foreshore Steps. Once past the handsome houses of Sovereign Crescent, look to your right as you cross the inlet with the little footbridge to spot the Rotherhithe Heritage and Education Museum 7 . It is housed in the old Pumphouse built to regulate water levels in the dock, which sits beside Lavender Pond and Nature Park. With Canary Wharf still towering over the far bank, walk on past the anonymous obelisk at Sovereign View and on to Rotherhithe Street and the Hilton Docklands – built on the site of Nelson’s dry dock. From here follow a sweeping path back up to the river, bearing right to the gates of Surrey Docks Farm 8 . Go through the farm to enjoy a wonderful parade of bronze animals on Barnard’s Wharf or follow Rotherhithe Street around the edge to rejoin the river via Vaughan Street. The tented landing stage of Greenland Passage is now straight ahead. Walk on along the path or take a boat onto Greenwich or back to the Tower from Greenland Pier.

Surrey Water and Surrey Dock Farm - 1 hour

KEY & FURTHER INFORMATION Visitor attractions along this section of The Thames Path are marked on the map by the following numbers:-

TO THE NORTH OF THE THAMES: 1 The Tower of London Tel: 0870 756 6060; www.hrp.org.uk 2 Tower Bridge Exhibition Tel: 020 7403 3761; www.towerbridge.org.uk 3 Museum in Docklands Tel: 0870 444385; www.museumindocklands.org.uk

TO THE SOUTH OF THE THAMES: 4 HMS Belfast Tel: 020 7940 6300; www.hmsbelfast.iwm.org.uk 5 The Design Museum Tel: 0870 833 9955; www.designmuseum.org 6 Brunel Engine House Tel: 020 7231 3840; www.brunelenginehouse.org.uk 7 Rotherhithe Heritage and Education Museum Tel: 020 7231 2976; www.thepumphouse.org.uk 8 Surrey Docks Farm & Café Tel: 020 7231 1010; www.surreydocksfarm.org.uk

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The Thames Path on the north bank...

MILLWALL AND THE SS GREAT BRITAIN Tearing yourself away from Canary Wharf you reach the striking apartments of the Cascades, with their porthole windows and waterfall silhouette – the first residential development of its kind on the Isle of Dogs. Next come the gardens named after Sir John McDougal, whose flower milling business based in Millwall Dock became a household name. This is the start of the Mill Wall embankment, where in the 17th and 18th centuries many flour mills flourished. Go on past the sprawling block of bright red brick apartments and turn inland past Arnham school and right onto Westferry Road. Across the way are the print works which produce the Telegraph and Express titles with the Docklands Sailing and Watersports Centre 9 close by on the old Millwall Dock. Fifteen minutes walk along the main road brings you a café at the Space, a conversion of St Paul’s church built in the 1850s for Scottish shipyard workers brought to Millwall to build Brunel’s SS Great Eastern. Twice the length and five times the weight of any previous ship, with a hull of wrought iron, she was designed to carry passengers non-stop to India and Australia but was used instead to lay the first transatlantic telegraph cable. Walk on to Masthouse Terrace, which marks the site where the SS Great Eastern was launched sideways into the Thames. This is adjacent to Burrell’s Wharf, which was taken over by Burrell & Company in 1888 to manufacture paints. Spurred on by glimpses of the Cutty Sark, follow the path to the far right of the car park beside the Elephant Royale, on past the Ferry House pub at the old ferry crossing and past Johnson Drawdock to Island Gardens. The gardens reward you with the classic view of Greenwich, as captured by Canaletto. Detour through Island Park to Mudchute Farm 10 , Europe’s largest urban farm, named after the mud chutes used in excavating Millwall Dock. Finish by taking the ten-minute walk under the Thames via the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, which has lifts at either end.

Millwall and the SS Great Britain - 40 min

The Thames Path on the south bank...

SIR FRANCIS DRAKE AND THE CUTTY SARK From the waterside at Greenland landing stage you walk on via Randell Rents to the entrance to Greenland Dock – an imposing stretch of water which is now a centre for watersports and leisure craft of every kind. Created in the 17th century to serve the Royal Dockyards at Deptford, it later became a base for Arctic whalers – hence its name. By the 19th century Greenland was part of a 460-acre complex of docks known generally as the Surrey Docks. Go on now past Greenland Pier to neighbouring South Dock Marina, another well-used stretch of water with berths for over 200 vessels. This whole peninsula took the biggest pounding of any British docks in World War II, but it fought back: South Dock was pumped out and used to build the concrete caissons for the Mulberry Harbours, named after its Mulberry Quay. Follow the waterside past high-rise flats until you come to the Old Rum Stores on the site of the Tudor docks of Deptford. It was here at the steps between the two blocks that Sir Francis Drake was knighted by Queen Elizabeth onboard the Golden Hinde after he had circumnavigated the world. Turn inland now for the last leg to Greenwich. Exit to the right of Pepys Park, turn left down the steps, go straight ahead and left into the second part of Pepys Park. From here, follow the signs past St Nicholas Church by Deptford Green weaving back to the river passing Peter the Great’s statue and on to reach the Cutty Sark, part of Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site 11 – 16 . The fastest sailing ship of her day, the lovely Cutty Sark is undergoing restoration from 2006. Explore the quirky shops and markets of old-world Greenwich before walking on along the Thames Path or taking a boat back to St Katharine’s Pier.

Sir Francis Drake and the Cutty Sark - 1 hour Photograph: Southwark Council Photograph: Visit London

Greenland Dock The View From Greenwich Observatory Greenwich Wharves

INTO THE NEW MILLENNIUM With the river on your left at Greenwich Pier, follow the Path past the Royal Naval College to the Trafalgar Tavern. Follow Crane Street (behind the tavern) back to the river and the “Strawberry Hill Gothick” façade of 17th-century Trinity Hospital, still in use as alms houses. Towering above it is Greenwich Power Station, built in 1906 to power trams and now a back up for London Underground – the Greenwich Meridian runs under its massive jetty. Pause next at the Cutty Sark Tavern, with its Georgian bow windows and riverside terrace – your last chance of refreshment until North Greenwich Station. From here the waterside presents an intriguing mix of industry and dereliction with factories like Tate & Lyle’s refinery (which processes a million tonnes of sugar a year) set amongst marine scrap-yards, slipways, warehouses and wharves. Information boards explain their various intriguing histories: Enderby’s Wharf, for example, was where Brunel’s Great Eastern loaded her Atlantic cables. Ignoring signs for the inland Cross Peninsula Route, venture between dusty yards piled high with aggregates and on to Victoria Deep Water Wharf, still active with shipping, with West India Docks across the river. At this point, you may find big changes under way. The O2 Dome and a new arena will host the basketball, badminton and gymnastics for the London 2012 Olympic Games whilst from Victoria Deep Water Terminal to the Ecology Park, the whole peninsula will be transformed with 10,000 new homes. Access to the Thames Path should not be affected by the work. Follow the Thames Path along the waterside, around the edge of the O2 Dome, past the public art and on past the Greenwich Peninsula Ecology Park 17 and the Greenwich Yacht Club. The Anchor & Hope pub marks the final half-mile stretch to the Thames Barrier 18 , a symbol of London’s 2012 Olympic bid. Return by bus or by train from Charlton Station or take the boat back to Greenwich.

Into the New Millennium - 1 hour 50 min

KEY & FURTHER INFORMATION Visitor attractions along this section of The Thames Path are marked on the map by the following numbers:-

TO THE NORTH OF THE THAMES: 9 Docklands Sailing and Watersports Centre Tel: 020 7537 2626; www.dswc.org 10 Mudchute Park & Farm Tel: 020 7515 5901; www.mudchute.org

TO THE SOUTH OF THE THAMES: 11 – 16 Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site; www.greenwichwhs.org.uk 11 Cutty Sark Tel: 020 8858 3445 12 Old Royal Naval College Tel: 020 8269 4747 13 National Maritime Museum Tel: 020 8858 4422 14 Queens House Tel: 020 8858 4422 15 Royal Observatory Tel: 020 8312 6565 16 Fan Museum Tel: 020 8305 1441 17 Greenwich Peninsula Ecology Park Tel: 020 8293 1904; www.urbanecology.org.uk 18 Thames Barrier Visitor Centre Tel: 020 8305 4188; www.environment-agency.gov.uk

PUBLIC TRANSPORT INFORMATION River piers marked on the map operate frequent services offered by a variety of companies. Buy your ticket from the pier, or check out details of London River Services in advance at www.tfl.gov.uk/river. Travelcard holders receive a third off fares on most river services, but Oyster cards are not accepted as yet. The website gives timetables and ticket prices for all services – including special fares such as the Westminster – St Katharine Docks hop-on-hop off service.

For bus services call 0845 300 7000, underground services call 0845 330 9880 and train services call 08457 484 950. Alternatively visit www.tfl.gov.uk. Don’t forget the duck: London Duck amphibious road and river tours depart regularly from County Hall on the South Bank. R IV E R

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S S ita I W S Centre S DE E p T a For continuation see T T R R C SOUTH DOCK Mudchute & R F T E “London’s Working E E

10 B R D E E

R . U T River” leaflet Park & Farm A T R T R PIER S G H

R E EW P S A N UBITT O Y C (no. 4).

L Y B P A B O P

W I E Y

E

U A

GH D V M

S R O HARLTON

E Mudchute OWN B WA C T T Y L P E O T L

E T A A E R C F D K

R O Enderby’s W T

R MILLWALL F Maryon D

D E A

S BUGSBY WAY E Wharf L L GS A N HOR R L A Wilson LO S

O N D Drake’s E T R A Y R E O

R Millwall N T R Park A Steps U E A N E V N M Green Chain D L N H E T A Park S C O D R E I R S O A S L W T R H T T OL E A E O N G HO W (Section 5) R D E R D Island RO N A E R A R P O A O A U L P N H O SH S W L R T R E C E E Gardens O A R M E S A O R T S A L F E F C C W I E E R W H E U R TER H alk H P R S E K C N Y E A Capital Ring ’S RD. IT S A H D C D L D N C N OA R N L Pepys A R VE N L (Walk 1) A W A U O T O A R M A L CH Charlton T S B O I T S B W O E Park A L L X Masthouse D O N

O R O Pepys BL W AS A Terrace Pier K C Park Ferry Island H ER PELTON H C

ROA C W . D U K House ST Gardens WO O . Y OLW D R R ICH ROA M ER W C F R G PH B H R L O E A E S A O L S D D T V S A D C A E E O A A L R O N L M 1 R E S A E 0 T G 2 R L B E FA E E E RA V T T Westcombe Park E GREENWICH Greenwich H L I Y L

N S FOOT TUNNEL Pier

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T S . Naval D T S OA N R R L E R College R L E 12 A Maze Hill I T G LG A H PRINCE STRE ET AF N R S E T E DEPTFORD T T W

R D M H A Cutty R

E St. Nicholas’s 11 G G A K

E O . U R Z I Cutty D T F Sark N

R E R E Church Thames Path Tourist information T Y G T Sark E B P N

A N E OM 14 W A D ROAD R H Green Chain Walk Refreshment stops K V CREE Queen’s IL

. L

D D T National House E CRE ROA S K 13 P EK Capital Ring National Rail station AS E St. Alphege’s Maritime T PER E

F OP R Greenwich Park D O C C Church Museum

E D R Waterlink Way Underground station

P Laban A D C

T O R

F R O H D GREENWICH O O E R I M Link to Station G Docklands Light Railway R O D F N H D I y A ’ T 16 S S a station P M S C K E E R T H W H Viewpoint

O Fan E R U D Greenwich I k L R

E N Deptford R n L Riverboat service pier i R Royal C E Museum C l O 15 T r H Y

e Observatory D A t A O H S R L

a T T H U

. IG – 21.10.05 W H O H S H I IC L T L Approximate Distance W H EN E E C R I E 0 400 Yards 880 Yards G R W T

N S E 0 500 m E

R G Approximate Walking Time 0 10 mins Tourist Information Centre

Greenwich: Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens Tel: 0870 608 2000.

Explore the London’s Heart of Working River London 3 Thames Dagenham Westminster Barrier Cross Hammersmith 1 Chelsea Tower Ness Bridge Woolwich Greenwich Crayford Ness 2 Explore 4 Twickenham Richmond Seafaring London Hampton Court Kingston London’s Rural Thames

The Thames Path is one of six strategic walking routes designated by the Mayor of London to set high standards for other trails in the capital. These include the Jubilee Walkway, part of which shares a section of the Thames Path.

For further information on the Strategic Walks, telephone 0870 240 6094 or visit www.tfl.gov.uk or email walking@tfl.gov.uk

The Thames Path lends itself to leisurely walks or getting about on a daily basis. It is signed throughout with the words Thames Path and the National Trail Acorn symbol. From time to time, some sections of the Path may be diverted for a short distance to accommodate building work, but clear signage is provided.

In its entire length, the Thames Path National Trail follows the river for 184 miles from its source in the Cotswolds and right through London to the Thames Barrier. For further information on the Thames Path, and companion leaflets describing walks along neighbouring sections of the London Thames, visit www. nationaltrail.co.uk or telephone 01865 810 224.

Funded by Transport for London and published in November 2005. Information contained within this leaflet is correct at the time of publication.